2015 Home, Lawn & Garden Magazine

Page 1

Home, Lawn & Garden

May 2015

Provided by the Angola & Eden-North Collins Pennysavers


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HOME, L AWN &

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May, 2015 • Angola and Eden-North Collins Pennysavers

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May, 2015 • Angola and Eden-North Collins Pennysavers

Home, Lawn & Garden

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Help your home’s exterior rebound from harsh winter weather Secrets to keeping an organized shed The dos and don’ts of backyard fire pits Common lawn critters and pests Common mistakes made on home renovation projects Ideas for pool perimeter landscaping How to cool your home without breaking the bank Add value to your home with these renovations Watering tips to produce healthy lawns “Do Not Disturb” An Essay on “No-Till Gardening”

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May, 2015 • Angola and Eden-North Collins Pennysavers

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he seasons can be harsh on homes, and perhaps no season is more taxing on a home’s exterior than winter. Harsh winter weather can take a toll on roofs, gutters, landscaping, and just about any other part of the home that must face the cold head-on. The following are a few areas of your home that might need some help rebounding from winter now that spring has finally arrived.

Walkways and driveways: Heavy snowfall or significant accumulation of ice over the winter can result in cracked or damaged walkways, driveways and porches. Some of this damage may have resulted from aggressive shoveling or breaking up of ice. Look for any cracks in areas that needed shoveling over the winter, as such cracks can be safety hazards and may even prove to be entry points into your home for water or critters.

Gutters: Gutters are vulnerable to winter weather, as strong winds may blow debris into the gutters or even blow the gutters off of the house. Gutters should be cleaned prior to and immediately after winter to ensure they’re working properly and not backing up to the point that water can build up and damage the roof. Reattach any loose gutters and clear them of any debris left behind by winter winds.

Landscaping: Landscaping also tends to take a hit in areas that experience harsh winters. Winter storms may damage trees, which can put a home right in the line of falling limbs or worse. Walk around your property to inspect for tree damage, removing any fallen limbs or cutting down any limbs that appear dead or that might eventually prove a safety hazard. In addition, check the grass for any dead spots that might have fallen victim to winter freeze, and address those spots when the time comes to revitalize your lawn.

Roof: The roof is another area of your home’s exterior that may have been beaten down over the winter. Examine the roof for cracked, missing or deformed shingles that can allow water to enter a home and damage its interior. Some roof damage is visible from the ground, but homeowners who just endured especially harsh winters may want to climb up on their roofs or hire a professional to get a closer look. Another way to determine if the roof was damaged is to go into your attic and check for water damage near roof trusses. Water damage indicates something went awry over the winter.

Appliances: When surveying your property after a long winter, inspect appliances like a central air conditioning unit or even dryer vents to make sure they made it through the winter unscathed. Such appliances may have proven an attractive nesting spot for animals over the winter, but damage can be significant if vermin or other animals seek shelter from winter weather inside appliances.


May, 2015 • Angola and Eden-North Collins Pennysavers

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May, 2015 • Angola and Eden-North Collins Pennysavers

Secrets to keeping an organized shed room you have. Utilizing vertical and overhead space effectively can free up areas on the floor for larger equipment.

D

espite other intentions, homeowners often turn their garages into storage centers for random, little-used items, leaving little to no room for the tools and even vehicles that actually belong in a garage. Such homeowners may turn to sheds to store their garage overflow and keep yard equipment at the ready, but storage sheds are not immune to clutter, and homeowners may find the very structure erected to keep them organized requires a bit of organization itself. A well-organized shed can save homeowners time and energy, as it's easy to abandon or delay a

project if you can't find that pair of work gloves you stashed. The first step to any organizing project is to take everything out of the shed and determine just what needs to go back in. Items that do not belong in the shed should be moved to their rightful locations or tossed in the trash if they're no longer needed. Make a pile of anything that will be kept, a separate one for donations and a third for garbage. Take inventory of what you have so you know whether you're missing any items or you have something and do not need to purchase another. Now that the entire shed is empty, you can assess just how much

Shelving, racks, pegboards and any other materials that enable you to hang or store items off the floor are good investments. Visit your nearby home improvement retailer to find items that can simplify your storage. You also may be able to put scrap wood to use to make your own storage shelves or a work bench. Extra kitchen cabinets can be installed in the shed to organize additional items. In order to remember where items go, label or sort them accordingly. Some people like to take organization a step further by tracing the outline of tools hung on the wall so they can be placed back in the same spot after use. This also serves as a visual reminder of which tools are missing and which ones need to be purchased. Don't forget to utilize shed doors as additional storage space. Hang frequently used tools, such as rakes and shovels, on the inside

of the doors so they will always be easily accessible. You also can repurpose storage solutions designed for other areas of the home. For example, magnetic knife holders can be mounted to a shed wall to keep paintbrushes organized. These holders also can be used to keep many small metal tools tidy. Metal funnels can hold twine and string. Thread through the narrow end of the funnel for a handy dispenser. Keep dangerous substances off the floor and out of reach. Gasoline, chemical fertilizers and other potentially dangerous substances should be stored high up to keep pets and children safe. Make sure the shed floor is sturdy and level. This makes it easier to neatly store larger items. Roll in the lawnmower, wheelbarrow and any other cumbersome items. Now that more things are mounted vertically, you should find that you have more area to move around. Taking the time to clean and organize a shed can help make anyone more productive.

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May, 2015 • Angola and Eden-North Collins Pennysavers

HOME, L AWN &

The dos and don’ts of backyard fire pits DO build on flat ground. The fire pit should be built on flat ground to reduce risk of accident and/ or injury. A fire pit built on flat ground also means everyone can enjoy it comfortably and equally once the project is finished. If the ground around the pit is not flat, some people may be forced to sit crooked or lean forward just to enjoy the pit.

O

nce a rarity, fire pits have grown increasingly popular in recent years, as more and more homeowners turn their homes into private oases. Fire pits run the gamut from the very simple to the more elaborate, and the fire pits homeowners choose often depend on the space they have available as well as their budgets. But even homeowners without any space or budget constraints should give careful consideration to which fire pit they ultimately install, especially if they plan to make that installation themselves. The following are some dos and don’ts of fire pits for those homeowners about to add this relaxing and popular accessory to their backyards. DO confirm you can legally build a fire pit in your yard. Fire pits have become so commonplace that homeowners may think there are no regulations governing their construction. However, it’s still best to confirm with your local government planning or zoning offices if you can build a fire pit and if any restrictions apply. DON’T proceed with the project until you have been granted official approval. Assuming you have the go-ahead to build a fire pit is not the same thing as knowing you have been approved. Starting early could result in fines if it turns out you aren’t allowed to have a fire pit. But you may also begin building a bigger fire pit than the local government allows, and that could be money down the drain later. Wait until you get official word before you proceed with the project.

DON’T build near flammable structures. Build the fire pit far enough away from existing structures, such as your home, garage or shed, so flickering flames do not catch some wind and lead to disaster. Before building in a given spot, monitor the wind patterns for a few days by sitting in a lawn chair at the spot you ultimately want the fire pit to be. If you notice the wind is blowing toward your house, you will want to choose another area for the pit so smoke from the fire will not be blowing into your home every night. DO choose the right size. The size of your fire pit will depend on the space you have available, but even if you have a vast swath of space, keep in mind that professional contractors typically recommend building a fire pit no bigger than 44 inches wide. Anything larger can be unsightly and may not appeal to prospective buyers down the road. In addition, an especially large fire pit may result in potentially unruly flames that can present a fire hazard. DON’T go it alone if your DIY skills are suspect. Installing a fire pit is a relatively inexpensive DIY job, but that does not mean anyone can do it. Ground needs to be excavated and the slope of the yard must be measured so the fire pit is safe and functional for years to come. If your DIY skills are not up to snuff, hire a professional contractor so your backyard oasis does not become a costly headache. A fire pit can turn a boring backyard into a relaxing retreat. But homeowners must adhere to the dos and don’ts of fire pits to ensure their retreat is something they can enjoy for years to come.

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May, 2015 • Angola and Eden-North Collins Pennysavers

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May, 2015 • Angola and Eden-North Collins Pennysavers

Common lawn critters and pests

C

ritters and pests can make landscaping afficionados want to pull the hair out of their heads. Such unwanted guests can come along just as a lawn or garden is rounding into shape, disrupting plant growth and leaving an unappealing landscape in their wake. The following are some of the more common critters and pests and how to recognize them.

mammals like to dig into the soil so they can fill up on grubs, insects and worms that live below the surface of a lawn. Overwatered lawns typically have moist soil, which makes it easier for moles to dig. The presence of moles is pretty easy to detect, as they typically leave mounds of soil in their wake. Those mounds are located where moles have dug into the ground looking for food.

· Chinch bugs: Chinch bugs like to feast on grass that is significantly exposed to sunlight. Though tiny chinch bugs are visible to the naked eye, homeowners may find they need to get especially close to the ground to see them. Chinch bugs may be living in thatch, so dethatching your lawn with a rake can make it easier to detect their presence. As chinch bugs rob grass of its moisture, they also inject toxins into the grass that loosens it from the soil.

· Mole crickets: Mole crickets are a formidable foe to homeowners. As mole crickets tunnel through the soil beneath a lawn looking for insects to eat, they leave brown patches behind and affect the feel of the grass, which may feel as though it's squishing and squashing beneath your feet. Mole crickets may eat grass roots, so the presence of dying grass may be indicative of a mole cricket infestation.

· Grubs: Grubs are the larvae of beetles and are the nemesis of many a landscaping enthusiast because they typically produce patches of unsightly brown grass in their wake. The grass is discolored because grubs eat its roots, and the resulting damage may be mistaken for sun damage when temperatures are especially high. Worm-like in appearance, grubs also are a nuisance because they serve as a food source for wildlife, including raccoons and skunks. Such animals may cause further damage to a lawn in search of grubs to eat. · Moles: Moles tend to appear in lawns that have been excessively watered, as these burrowing

· Voles: Voles are small rodents that chew their way through the grass, leaving unsightly trails of damage in their wake. Homeowners who suspect their lawn has been victimized by voles can usually tell because the voles will leave noticeable pathways in the ground that can make a lawn look cracked in the way a roadway may looked cracked after an earthquake. Many critters are specific to certain regions, so before addressing a pest issue in your lawn, speak with a local lawn and garden or landscaping professional to confirm just which pest is causing so many problems around your property.

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May, 2015 • Angola and Eden-North Collins Pennysavers

Common mistakes made on home renovation projects

more free reign when it comes to renovating their homes. Such homeowners can create a billiards room or paint a room hot pink if they so prefer. However, if the goal is to make improvements in order to sell a property, overly personal touches may make a property less appealing to prospective buyers. Trends come and go, and improvements can be expensive. If your ultimate goal is to sell your home, opt for renovations that will look beautiful through the ages and avoid bold choices that may only appeal to a select few buyers. Forgetting to properly vet all workers It is important to vet your contractor, but don’t forget to vet potential subcontractors as well. Failing to do so can prove a costly mistake. Contractors often look to subcontractors to perform certain parts of a job, and it is the responsibility of homeowners to vet these workers.

Expecting everything to go as planned Optimism is great, but you also should be a realist. Knowing what potentially could go wrong puts you in a better position to handle any problems should they arise. The project might go off without a hitch, but plan for a few hiccups along the way. Overestimating DIY abilities Overzealous homeowners may see a renovation project in a magazine or on television and immediately think they can do the work themselves. Unless you have the tools and the skills necessary to do the work, tackling too much can be problematic. In the long run, leaving the work to a professional may save you money. Home improvements can be stressful, but homeowners can lessen that stress by avoiding common renovation mistakes.

H

ome improvement projects can turn a house into a home. Homeowners plan scores of renovations to transform living spaces into rooms that reflect their personal tastes and comforts. Homeowners going it alone may find things do not always go as planned. In fact, a Harris Interactive study found that 85 percent of homeowners say remodeling is a more stressful undertaking than buying a home. But homeowners about to embark on home improvement projects can make the process go more smoothly by avoiding these common pitfalls. Failing to understand the scope of the project Some homeowners don’t realize just how big a commitment they have made until they get their hands dirty. But understanding the scope of the project, including how much demolition and reconstruction is involved and how much time a project will take can help homeowners avoid some of the stress that comes with renovation projects. For example, a bathroom renovation may require the removal of drywall, reinforcement of flooring to accommodate a new bathtub or shower enclosure and the installation of new plumbing and wiring behind walls. So such a renovation is far more detailed than simply replacing faucets.

Not establishing a budget Homeowners must develop a project budget to ensure their projects do not drain their finances. If your budget is so inflexible that you can’t afford the materials you prefer, you may want to postpone the project and save more money so you can eventually afford to do it right. Without a budget in place, it is easy to overspend, and that can put you in financial peril down the line. Worrying about coming up with money to pay for materials and labor also can induce stress. Avoid the anxiety by setting a firm budget. Making trendy or overpersonal improvements Homeowners who plan to stay in their homes for the long run have

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May, 2015 • Angola and Eden-North Collins Pennysavers

Ideas for pool perimeter landscaping

W

ith the rise of the "staycation," more and more homeowners are turning their backyards into their own private oases. The centerpiece of many such retreats is a refreshing and inviting pool. Whether above-ground or inground models, pools make for welcoming spots to enjoy warm days and nights. A new pool can quickly turn a yard into the "it" spot to spend vacations or cool off at the end hot summer days. While pools are often the focal point of a backyard, many homeowners want their pools to blend seamlessly with the rest of their yards. When transforming a backyard that includes a pool, homeowners should consider a few factors to ensure each afternoon spent poolside is as safe as it is fun. Safety first Although the goal may be to soften the lines of the pool and/or create sight barriers that will provide some measure of privacy for swimmers, homeowners must put safety above all else. Before any decorative touches are added, it is important to surround a pool with a slip-resistant surface and fencing (many communities require fences be erected around pools). Consult with a landscaping contractor, who should be knowledgeable about safety codes, or speak to the permit-issuing department at town hall. There should be a list of requirements to ensure pool placement as well as any surrounding touches are legal and within code. Nonslip surfaces Concrete, brick and pavers and decking are popular materials used to surround a pool. Installers can make recommendations on materials and finishes, but one suggestion is to choose a rough finish. Pool water can make surfaces slippery. Concrete that is stamped or scarred provides extra traction than a smooth surface. The same can be said for brick patios and pavers. Avoid smooth stones or pavers with shiny surfaces, as these may only increase the risk of falls. Homeowners who have chosen wood or composite decking to surround a pool should talk to their contractor about nonslip protective coatings. Such coatings typically are acrylic-based liquids applied like a paint or sealer. Some

composite decks may be crafted with texture or a built-in coating to reduce slipping. In addition, use nonstick mats on decks and patios to provide a little extra footing where people enter and exit the pool. Mulch and stone Homeowners often prefer some combination of mulch or stone to serve as a transition between the pool, concrete or paver hardscape and the lawn. Stone may be more practical for those with inground pools because it will not easily blow onto the water surface. With an above-ground pool, mulch or stone can do the trick, serving as a barrier so that pool water does not overly drench the surrounding lawn or damage grass after exposure to pool chemicals. Mulch and stone also will provide drainage from water runoff from the pool and rain. Another advantage of having an additional barrier between the pool and lawn is that lawn clippings will not be shot into the pool when mowing. Stone and mulch can be dressed up with statues, lawn ornaments and tolerant plants.

Keep trees and flowering plants far enough away from the pool's edge so they do not contribute to debris that falls into the pool, which can complicate maintenance. Also, flowering plants may attract insects and other wildlife that may interfere with your enjoyment of the pool. It's better to create a friendly environment for wildlife further away from the pool. Homeowners who need some advice planning the landscaping around their pools can rely on the expertise of landscape architects as well as employees at lawn and garden centers. Pool companies may work with landscapers and offer recommendations to people unaccustomed to working around pools.

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Finishing touches Plants can provide the finishing touches for a poolside landscape. Homeowners should keep in mind that pools are not often shaded from the sun, so plants placed around the pool will need to be sun- and drought-tolerant. Succulents, such as aloe and jade, may work, as can the perennial shrub yucca. Moderately growing grasses will offer a privacy barrier.

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May, 2015 • Angola and Eden-North Collins Pennysavers

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May, 2015 • Angola and Eden-North Collins Pennysavers

How to cool your home without breaking the bank

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other Nature is consistently inconsistent these days, when 30-degree Mondays might be followed by 60-degree Tuesdays. Fickle weather is often accompanied by large fluctuations in temperature, strong storms and unseasonable conditions, making it difficult for homeowners to maintain comfort levels in their homes. As a result of fluctuating temperatures, home heating and cooling systems have been heavily taxed. Growing reliance on HVAC systems has also driven up energy bills, as moderate weather synonymous with spring has given way to more days of extreme heat or extreme cold. As summer approaches once again, reducing cooling costs is a priority for many homeowners. The following are a few ways to cool your home’s interior without causing a spike in your energy bill. Reduce sun exposure. Much of the hot air inside of a home can be attributed to sunlight exposure throughout the day. Walls and windows on the south and west sides of a home will bear the brunt of the sun’s rays, so close shades and drapes on this side of the house to maximize coolness. Shades and curtains can save you up to 7 percent on your bills and lower indoor temperatures by up to 20 degrees. Homeowners also may want to think about installing a retractable awning on areas of the house that get a lot of sun. Planting shade trees is another way to naturally cool down hot sides of the house. Draw more air into the attic. Hot air rises, and in the summertime hot air can get trapped beneath the roof in the attic and eaves of a home. While an attic should have vents, homeowners can speed up the exchange of hot air with a simple trick. Open up a window on a shady side of the home, and then open the attic door or take out the access panel and place a box fan inside to blow air up into the attic. This will disperse the hot air and help force it out through the vents. Use fans productively. Using box fans to suck cool night air in from east- and north-facing windows and to push out hot air from

west- and south-facing windows is another way to increase circulation through a home. Running fans may be less costly than turning on air conditioners. Also, set ceiling fans to rotate counter-clockwise. This will pull cooler air up from the floor and create a wind-chill effect. Switch to LED or CFL bulbs. Ninety percent of the energy used for incandescent bulbs is emitted as heat. This not only wastes electricity but also can make conditions hotter inside a home. Switch to cooler, more efficient light bulbs. Reduce humidity levels. Humidity makes hot temperatures feel even hotter. Clean laundry, take showers and run the dishwasher at night or early in the morning before the day heats up. Don’t forget to vent bathrooms and kitchens by turning on exhaust fans when water is in use. Rely on a programmable thermostat. Setting a thermostat to adjust the air conditioning system automatically means homeowners can keep the temperature raised when they’re not home and then have it lowered shortly before they arrive home. The thermostat also can adjust temperatures for day and night use. Keep doors closed. Do not cool rooms that are unused. Maximize the cool air in lived-in spaces by blocking off rooms that do not need to be cooler. Invest in more insulation. Insulation does not just keep homes warmer in the cold weather. Insulation also prevents hot air from infiltrating living spaces while keeping cooler air where it’s needed. Sealant around windows and doors also will prevent unnecessary air exchange.

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Add value to your home with these renovations H omeowners choose renovation projects for a variety of reasons. Although many improvements are made to increase functionality and comfort of a home, several others are seen as worthwhile investments. These investments can add up to a higher resale value when the time comes to sell a home. Certain projects have a history of providing a greater return on homeowners’ investments than others. The following renovation tips can add beauty to your home and generate great returns when you put the home up for sale.

Invest in your kitchen. Kitchen remodels are a safe bet when it comes to putting money into improving a home. Residents tend to spend a great deal of time in the kitchen, but a dated, poorly functioning kitchen can detract from the value of a home, even if the rest of the home is in good shape. It’s possible to recoup between 60 and 120 percent of your kitchen remodel investment, especially if the kitchen matches up well with the rest of your home. Homeowners should know that a deluxe renovation may not be necessary, as relatively moderate improvements can create a whole new look for a kitchen. Look to paint. One of the least expensive improvement materials, but one that has a significant impact, is paint. Neutral, modern colors can easily liven up any space. If you paint with low-VOC paint, you also can advertise an eco-friendly home, which is very desireable these days.

Put in another bathroom. Multiple bathrooms are an attractive selling point, particularly in older homes that may not have been equipped with more than one bathroom. Finding extra space for a bathroom can be tricky, but consider closets, areas under stairs or even taking some space away from another room. Popular home-improvement television channel HGTV advises that half-bathrooms require at least 18 square feet of space, while full baths need 30 to 35 square feet for a stand-up shower or bathtub. Renovate the HVAC system. Aesthetic improvements aren’t the only ones that add value to a home. Many home buyers are eager to purchase a home that has a new heating and cooling system, as buyers understand that furnaces and air conditioning units are substantial investments that can last for years. Other improvements, such as adding attic insulation or replacing older windows and doors with more energy efficient options, also are smart bets.

Add illumination to rooms. A dark home is a dreary home. Adding light can mean including more overhead and accent lighting. Under-cabinet task lighting is a nice touch. Inclusion of skylights and sun tubes can bring natural light into rooms that may not have south- or west-facing windows.

appealing. The scope of your investment will depend on the size of the deck and design. Doing the work yourself can cut the cost of decks in half, but only if you have the specific tools or experience to tackle such a project.

Put a deck addition outdoors. Outdoor living spaces have become more desireable, especially as the “staycation” has grown in popularity. Decks and patios can make backyards more

Improve curb appeal. Adding attractive landscaping and freshening up the entryway to a home can add considerable value to your home, as buyers judge homes by their exteriors.

Completely renovated interiors may never be seen if buyers pass up your home because of a less attractive exterior. Classy, subtle changes, like well-placed shrubbery and a green lawn, can work wonders. An inviting front door and well-lit entryway also add curb appeal to a home. Before making improvements, homeowners should determine if a given project will provide a solid return on their investment.

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May, 2015 • Angola and Eden-North Collins Pennysavers

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ummer is a season for landscaping, and homeowners who live in regions that get especially hot in the summertime often worry that their lawns won't make it through the dog days of summer looking lush. But lawns don't have to succumb to the sizzling summer sun. Oftentimes, the right watering strategies can help homeowners nurse their lawns through the hottest months of the year, ensuring the lawns make it to autumn looking as green as they did back at the height of spring. · Reconsider when you're watering. Come summertime, homeowners may want a glass of water at high noon, when temperatures seem to be at their hottest. But you and your lawn are different, so the best time to satiate your thirst is not necessarily the best time to water your lawn. Watering in the middle of the day is often ineffective, as water tends to evaporate quickly in the afternoons when temperatures are peaking. Nighttime watering can contribute to the growth of fungus, which can create an entirely new set of headaches for homeowners. Morning watering sessions tend to be most effective during the summertime, as temperatures tend to be cooler in the morning, leading to less evaporation. Less evaporation means all that watering isn't going to waste. · Reconsider your sprinkler. If you can't afford an in-ground irrigation system, which many landscaping professionals feel is the most effective and efficient way to water a lawn, then you likely will rely on a sprinkler to keep your lawn looking lush through the summer months. When choosing a sprinkler, look for one that shoots water out horizontally as opposed to vertically.

A vertical sprinkler system is more vulnerable to wind and evaporation than one that shoots water out horizontally, so make sure your sprinkler system is sending water into your lawn and not into summer breezes. · Avoid overwatering. How much water your lawn needs in the summertime depends on a host of factors, including where you live and how often rain falls in that region. Overwatering can promote the growth of fungus and adversely affect your lawn's root system, making it difficult for roots to grow deep. Speak with a local landscaping professional to determine how often you should water your lawn each week. · Strategically position your sprinklers. When choosing where to put down your sprinklers, hook them up to your hose, turn them on and then watch to see where the water is going. Areas that exposed to sun are most in need of water, so make sure the bulk of your water isn't going to shaded areas beneath trees. In addition, make sure you aren't wasting water on sidewalks, patios and driveways. Sprinklers should be positioned so none of the water they're shooting out is landing on surfaces that don't need water. It sounds simple, but too often homeowners drop their sprinklers down, turn them on and then walk away without waiting to see where the water is landing. Position sprinklers or adjust sprinkler heads so all the water is landing on your lawn. Keeping a lawn lush and green at the height of summer requires homeowners to adopt effective strategies. Such a strategies can make the difference between a lush landscape and one that succumbs to summer heat.


May, 2015 • Angola and Eden-North Collins Pennysavers

“Do Not Disturb” An Essay on “No-Till Gardening” by David R. Clark

P

erhaps you have heard of ‘Lasagna Style’ garden creation? This process is where one covers existing uncultivated, untilled soil and turf (if need be) with sheets of cardboard and/or entire sections of newspaper. Layers are constructed above this with bulky compostable materials first (branches/small limbs). Then soil, leaves, manure, kitchen scraps are laid in place to a depth of 8 or 12”. Mix lightly, add a goodly amount of water and let your casserole bake for a week or two. Then it’s ready to plant -- oh but where is the machinery?? – It is not a requisite for this system. We are going to let the soil do its natural job. For heavy clay which is probably the number one complaint I hear about in western New York soils, “No Till” recommends are to cultivate deeply only one time, aerating the base soil- plant roots do need air also- adding lots of organic matter and testing the soil nutrient and pH levels. So what to do next? Create the layers as above and then park the cultivator in your shed, not to be used again- Unless! You can adjust the cultivation depth to 3-4”. Please understand that it is not my intent to negate the purchase or usage of cultivating machines as that is an important industry employing many people. I would like however, to open people’s minds to creative possibilities and options. Now, let’s take a look at what has happened in woods and forests every fall for eons. Leaves and twigs drop on the soil surface. Green grasses and plants are bent over the layer of leaves; we can call this layer, mulch. The entire lot is then covered by winter snows and experiences freeze/thaw cycles which help open up soil particle spaces and begin the decomposition process. Organic mulches keep soils moist, regulate their temperatures, act like carbon dioxide “sponges”, and protect soils from compaction & erosion. Along with decomposition from

physical weathering and the food web above ground, i.e. herbivores and detrivores that digest green material, there is a similar system below ground called the soil food web, again with herbivores and detrivores Earthworms, fungi and bacteria digest organic material to carbon-rich humus and release nutrients. Humus acts like a water sponge in and on the ground. Humus pulls soil particles together, and helps nutrients stay in the soil – including nitrogen. When soils warm in the spring, worms move from lower depths to the surface organic mulch to feed…cultivating and aerating the soil at the same time. Year by year and season by season, a sustainable, nutrient rich, water holding, non-compacted biologically active soil is formed that will support plant growth. How can you implement this system of growing plants on you land? Doing nothing can be the best practice! No-till gardening promotes natural aeration, preserves nitrogen gas levels and water drainage by allowing our worm friends and other soil life to do their jobs as nature intended. Slightly disturbed soils encourage the buildup of beneficial soil fungi. Diseases and pests are less frequently encountered. Largely disturbed soils interfere with the soil biota. Tilling deeply the layers of organic matter creates a ‘biological nuclear reactor’ that burns up the majority of the organic matter and creates wide swings of pH and nutrient availability. In other words: all is gone, and one must start again. Mulches applied in appropriate depths, allow water to percolate slowly down through the top layers of soil where root systems do their work of absorbing moisture and the resulting nutrient solution. This reduces the need for supplemental water applications. Mulches also provide cover for predatory insects and can increase the earthworm population. Deep tilling brings up thousands of weeds seeds that have lain dor-

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mant due to sunlight exposure and moisture constraints. It is far better to cultivate the top 2-3 inches of soil with a scuffle hoe to agitate the soil surface crust and sever germinating weeds from their root systems. No-till gardening saves time and energy. Digging soil is hard work! Machine cultivators use precious fuels, better served by filling your gas tank to purchase plants for your new garden. A much better approach is to use a broad-fork to aerate the soil. This is a long-tined implement that is stepped on and then rocked back and forth to loosen the lower soil horizons. Start by loosening the soil to 12-18” (18-24” if growing root crops), or consider adding raised beds to your plot. You might want to dig in things like peat, coir, vermiculite, compost, and manures. Double-digging is recommended at this point for really heavy clay or construction-compacted soils. Double digging is the process where shovel depths of soil are removed from the planting area and placed on a tarp…12” removed and saved…12” more removed and saved…each level to its own tarp or plastic sheet. Mix the amendments to each layer and replace the layers. Our next step is to place the mulch. Try to use straw instead of hay to reduce the introduction of weed and grass seeds. Leaves, grass clippings and even sawdust can be added in thin layers. When planting seedling plants, only a couple of inches of mulch is necessary at this point. Continue adding layers as plants grow. To add trans-plants growing in pots or packs, pull the mulch aside, dig a hole to the depth of the plant, insert the plant into the soil, and lightly firm the soil around the plant. Replace the mulch, leaving a space around stems of plants like tomatoes, peppers, etc. Water in your plants and let Nature do its work. I would highly recommend that you install a drip irrigation system at this point, applying 1-2” of water per week. Do continue to layer organics and amendments throughout the growing season.

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Avoid compacting soils by walking in your garden beds. Constructing beds that are no more than 4 feet wide, will allow you to reach in comfortably from all sides for harvest and maintenance tasks. Consider using walking stones, boards, gravel or mulch covered cardboard walking aisles. “No-Till” does not mean “No-Work”. There are always garden tasks to be aware of, and this system may be quite new to you. Please be aware that healing the soil is not an instantaneous happening. Over time, I am sure you will be pleased with the results of your efforts I look forward to hearing of your successes and failures…failures make us more successful!!! References: Eartheasy Solutions for Sustainable Living: www.eartheasy.com, “No-till Gardening”, author: Greg Seaman Fine Gardening Magazine, “Tilling is one chore you might be able to skip”, author: Lee Reich, issue 112 With a degree in Floriculture, David Clark is a multi-talented florist, event director, educator and National Garden Speaker, with over 30 years in the ornamental horticulture industry. David is featured in television segments, gardening podcasts, YouTube videos, Buffalo Garden Walk, and The Upstate Gardener’s Journal. He is a regular contributor to www.Buffalo-NiagaraGardening. com, and can be found presenting workshops at Lockwood’s Greenhouses, Hamburg, NY, Urban Roots Garden Center, Buffalo, NY and Grass Roots Gardens of Buffalo. David Clark’s horticulture classes at The Buffalo and Erie County Botanical are listed as a ‘Go to Event’ on the Buffalo Niagara Visitors Bureau and the Greater Western New York Traveler’s Companion website. He is a visiting horticulture instructor for Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens, Pittsburgh, PA. Follow David Clark on social media: www.davidclarkwny.com, www. greatgardenspeakers.com, Twitter: @david37771, and email at: david3777@aol.com.

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While it might be tempting to lower mower blades when summer temperatures reach their hottest, it is possible to cut grass too short. Homeowners who want to cut back on the time they spend mowing their lawns under the hot summer sun should avoid lowering their mower blades too low, as doing so can cause significant damage to the lawn. Lawns that have been cut too low are less capable of surviving drought and are unlikely to thrive. When grass is cut too short, the stem tissue from the grass is exposed, and that exposure can lead to unsightly grass that turns yellow or brown. Grass that is cut too short also may suffer from weaker roots, which in turn makes the grass weaker and less likely to grow in strong. In addition, weaker grass is more susceptible to weed growth, which can be both a nuisance and an eyesore. When mowing, homeowners should remove no more than one-third of the grass blade. Mowing at this height will promote strong roots and protect the grass when theweather gets especially hot in the summer.


May, 2015 • Angola and Eden-North Collins Pennysavers

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