Fashion Logistics & Supply Chain Management Report

MSc Logistics & Supply Chain Management Repor t

C A PA C I T I E S F O R REVERSE LOGISTICS & CLOSED LOOP S U P P LY C H A I N S WITHIN SMALL UK FA S H I O N R E TA I L E R S

ANNABEL LINDSAY 19000613 Word Count: 2 997

RL /CLSC Capacities for Small Fashion Retailers

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A S S E S S I N G T H E C A PA B I L I T I E S A N D L I M I TAT I O N S O F R E V E R S E LOGISTICS AND CLOSED LOOP S U P P LY C H A I N S W I T H I N S M A L L FA S H I O N R E TA I L E R S I N T H E U K .

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RL /CLSC Capacities for Small Fashion Retailers

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ABSTRACT This report analyses the capabilities and limitations of reverse logistics (RL) and closed loop supply chains (CLSC) within small fashion retailers in the UK. Using varied sources, the literature review analyses definitions of supply chain management, sustainability, RL/ CLSC, within the fashion industry, with particular focus on the scalability of such systems; due to the socio-economic potential surrounding this sector of fashion logistics. Much of the literature scoped towards RL/CLSC addressed logistical issues of implementation at product level.

However, research on capacities concerning the players involved in such systems, particularly smaller fashion players, proves to be limited.

Within the industry analysis, RL/CLSC systems are conceptualised in scenarios exploring how internal and external factors could help to hinder or advance RL/CLSC. The recommendations provided at the end of the report are suggested, to help small UK fashion retailers initiate plans of RL/CLSC implementation within their businesses in the near future.

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CONTENTS

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A b s t ra c t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 C o n te n t s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 I n t ro d u c t i o n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Literature Review. . . . . . . . . . . .10 Industr y Analysis. . . . . . . . . . . .16 Re c o m m e n d a t i o n s . . . . . . . . . . 2 0 Conclusion....................23 Appendix......................24 - Appendix 1. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 - Appendix 2. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 - Appendix 3. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 - Appendix 4. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 - Appendix 5. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Re f e re n c e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 0 Image Reference List. . . . . . . .32

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INTRODUCTION This repor t assesses capabilities of reverse logistics (RL) and closed loop supply chains (CLSC) within small UK fashion retailers; considering whether smaller fashion players have the know-how, infrastructure, finance or consumer par ticipation to effectively implement RL/CLSC within their operations.

RL research emerged to assess control factors for increased efficiency of returned orders, after surges of online retail consumption. RL/CLSC are now being assessed for their potential to address mounting concerns about the fashion industries environmental impact.

Sustainable demand is inducing changes to traditional business models- financial rationale is no longer the ‘be-and-end-all’.

Reappraising economic value propositions could incur environmental justice.

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Traditional linear models build planned obsolescence into products to increase sales. To produce environmentally responsible fashion, industry decision makers require ‘laws, regulations, industry standards, and certification’ (Burns, 2019:73) for guidance.

International collaborative responses to the climate emergency sees Government legislation and policy introducing indirect accountability to major fashion retailers. The ‘Paris Climate Agreement target of holding planetary temperatures at just 1.5 degrees above pre-industrial levels’ requires ‘global zero carbon emissions by 2050’ (Common Objective, 2018:online).

Extracting; growing raw materials are often the most resource intensive aspects within supply chains.

Maximising resource efficiency by capitalising on RL/CLSC could reduce needs for virgin materials.

Although apparel companies currently fail to meet sustainability demands, ‘half of industry players want at least half of their products to be made with sustainable materials by 2025’ (Cheng, 2019:online). However, for small fashion retailers, potentials to implement such practices are somewhat unknown. With increasingly conscious consumers ‘the world’s biggest brands are struggling to keep up with the pace of this change’ (Scott, 2019:online). This sub-sector focus is necessary to understand capabilities of smaller retailers to implement RL/CLSC. Poorly managed post-consumer waste is industry wide.

Over $500billion of value is lost every year due to clothing underutilisation and lack of recycling (HOCEAC, 2019:5).

Most post-consumer waste ends up landfilled or incinerated, meaning lost potential value. Hence, the importance of retrieving, repurposing and redistributing value, to maximise resource circulation.

Stella McCartney summarised a co-launched report with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017:online), claiming that one garbage truck of textiles is landfilled/incinerated every second; less than 1% of clothing is recycled and without change, the fashion industry will ‘consume a quarter of the world’s annual carbon budget by 2050’. Current data limitations make it difficult to assess challenges of reducing fashions environmental impact. ‘No single study so far reported compares textiles fibres in terms of their entire life cycle assessment [LCA] or individual phases’ (Muthu, 2014).

However, there is need to understand fashions environmental impact across the supply chain.

RL/CLSC relationships with sustainability are discussed within the report, across four main sections: 1. Conceptualising supply chains, sustainability and RL/CLSC 2. Rationalising the need for RL/CLSC within the fashion industry.

3. Analysis of RL/CLSC within the fashion industry today.

4. Recommendations of RL/CLSC feasible scalability for small retailers.

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L I T E R AT U R E R E V I E W Embracing Returns Internet sales account for a fifth of total UK retail sales (ASCG, 2020:6). E-commerce has drastically altered consumer shopping behaviours; returns are now a retail normality, with ‘estimates that returns cost UK retailers £60bn a year’ (Ram, 2016). With returns an ongoing inevitability, capitalising on RL/CLSC systems from an economic perspective, could reduce fashions environmental impact.

Traditional Supply Chains Forward supply/value chains are processes fulfilling customer requests (Burns, 2019:2), including supplying materials, manufacturing processes; distributing finished goods through a network of retailers to final consumers (Burns, 2019:113). Symbolising the value-added aspects of each stage in creating products, companies make ‘sourcing decisions around procuring materials, production systems, and distribution pipelines (Burns, Mullet & Bryant, 2016, p.256)’ (Burns, 2019:113). Sourcing decisions are influenced by

RL /CLSC Capacities for Small Fashion Retailers

internalised operations (brand ethos, equipment accessibility; capacities) and externalised factors (political, geographical, economic and outsourcing considerations). Brand ethos typically determines a framework before applying ‘vertical integration and contracting’ (Burns, 2019:114) as supply chain management (SCM) approaches.

RL/CLSC Govindan et al. (2015:2) classify RL as ‘planning, implementing and controlling efficient, cost-effective flows of raw materials, in-process inventory, finished goods and related information from consumption to the point of origin for recapturing’. Whilst Ronald and Dale (2002:271) define it as opposite direction product movement recapturing value, or for proper disposal. RL generally encompasses product returns, end-of-life disposal schemes; asset value recovery strategies. Appendix 1 outlines situational differences between forward and reverse logistics.

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INTERNET SALES ACCOUNT FOR AROUND A FIFTH OF T O TA L U K R E TA I L S A L E S 11

Collaborative supplier relationships operate knowing that RL/CLSC demand management, reactively responds to inconsistent flows of materials back-up the chain. Planning RL/CLSC is difficult, due to reliance on consumers returning products, hence reverse-flows are more reactive, with less visibility (Ronald and Dale S, 2002:272) (Appendix 2). Bloemhof-Ruwaard et al. (1999) mention problems of locating collection points for returned used products.

Others propose combining retail activities with used product collection (Wojanowski et al., 2007) (cited through Pokharela and Mutha, 2009:177).

Research highlights RL/CLSC inventory management inconsistencies, including diverse physical conditions of returned products. Pokharela and Mutha (2009:178) and Ilgin and Gupta (2009:574) discuss needs for coordination between remanufacturing and regular modes of procurement.

Inconsistencies in inventory quality, usability; distribution source means consistent decision-making is important.

Asset recovery requires sufficient reverse-flow capacity, volumes, product condition, operational/logistical costs and components value. Hindrances include lack of technological systems, training or education, financial limitations; reluctance of distributors/retailers. Sustainable procurement practices regarding minimising social risk also require consideration: are suppliers’ compliant with laws/codes of conduct around wages, hiring standards, workplace safety, environmental requirements; ethical practices?

(Burns, 2019:115). If not, retailers could face penalisation, damaged reputation and legal action.

RL/CLSC limitations require collaboration; ‘Large groups tend no longer to be able to act with total autonomy’ (Morana, 2013:11). Smaller retailers should consider operational flexibility and adaption for ease of collaboration between other vital players i.e. Central Return Centres send useable products off for refurbishment and unusable to disposal.

Distribution strategies are fundamental as total costs depend heavily upon transportation costs (Govindan et al, 2015:10). Efficient RL/CLSC transportation planning is vital as fashion’s freight use will triple by 2040 (Common Objective, 2018:online). ‘Emissions can be saved through more centralised…coordinated controls’ of RL/CLSC (ASCG, 2020:10) and investments in UK-based infrastructure. New products move in large, neat; efficiently stacked pallets. Reverse-flow products typically have smaller shipments, meaning less well-formed pallets; unorganized merchandise (Ronald and Dale, 2002:76).

RL/CLSC systems re-establish value out of materials already in circulation; hence ongoingly referred to simultaneously as intertwined networks.

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Fashion Sustainability Burns (2019:118) notes fashion’s responsibility to meet country/regional standards associated with environmental sustainability. But an industry-wide issue is defining sustainable fashion in the first place (Cheng, 2019). Without ‘common language’ or ‘shared standards’ within fashion, sustainability is hard to measure across different retailer capacities.

Projections warn that RL/CLSC dependency on return products could induce self-cannibalisation (perpetuated consumerism), whereby new products can only be produced if enough products are sold and returned in the first place.

Lifecycle Assessments (LCA) analyse ‘environmental impacts throughout product lifecycles’ (Finnveden et al., 2009). Limited data creates difficulties in LCA of textiles products. Traditional product lifecycles, post-consumer waste (Appendix 3), highlight needs to transition cradle-to-grave into cradle-to-cradle, involving product management through reuse, repair; remanufacture at product, component; material-level (Fleischmann et al., 2002:654). Although RL/CLSC has upcycling value-creation potential, logistical issues require managemental considerations to maximise effectiveness.

Waste is only waste, if we waste it.

Post-electronic point of sale (EPOS) systems need operationalisation for accessible product returns.

Recycling regulations are pressuring manufactures and consumers to dispose of products responsibly.

Sustainability could be embedded in design ‘with conduct codes’ (Burns, 2019:203). Sustainable design (i.e. additive manufacture, biomimicry; polymorphic clothing) for disassembly and recycling, could ease resource flow and technical manufacturing processes in value-retrieval, from post-consumer waste through RL/CLSC (Ilgin and Gupta, 2009:564). This also compromises understanding product environmental compatibility, risk management, workplace health and safety, pollution prevention, resource conservation; waste management (Morana, 2013:56).

Fleischmann et al. (2002:653) and Pokharela and Mutha (2009:175) appraise post-consumer value retention, due to forecasted scarcity of virgin resources, resulting in supplier price increases. Legislations, directives, consumer awareness and social responsibilities towards environment are also drivers for [RL].

Network designs require strategy planning of processes, locations; capacities. Ronald and Dale (2002:272) identify varied destinations for returned products and new methodologies addressing remanufacturing, forecasting, capacity planning; inventory management (Ilgin and Gupta, 2009:572). Ilgin and Gupta (2009:573) address capacity planning techniques based on maximising investment savings from remanufacturing facilities. Appendix 4 further demonstrates a recovery model for fashion CLSC. 15

I N D U S T R Y A N A LY S I S Small Retailers SMEs (small/medium-sized enterprises) innovate, upskill, inspire and enthuse key industry players to ‘demonstrate that British fashion is at the vanguard of sustainability-led creativity’ (BFC, 2019:4). Despite RL/CLSC research within large businesses, research in the context of smaller retailers has proven limited. Complexities including multiple stakeholders, uncertainties and competitiveness implications present challenges (Ilgin and Gupta, 2009).

Further research is needed to advance fashion towards sustainability through RL/CLSC and to challenge this rationale.

Small retailers often provide more bespoke services/products, coinciding with Hans et al. (2010) study of product lifecycle management at item level, investigating the requirements that item-level PLM systems must fulfil in order to support sustainability in RL processes appropriately (Govindan et al., 2015:15). Smaller retailers selling investment pieces risk accessibility to return materials through their own sales-based return systems.

RL /CLSC Capacities for Small Fashion Retailers

Establishing Rapport Return decisions are influenced by clarity of instructions, buyer regret; other varying reasons (Ronald and Dale, 2002:275), all possessing potential control factors.

Greater rapport is often established amongst smaller brand scenarios, providing more uniformed balance of bargaining powers of both suppliers and consumers (highlighted in Porter’s 5 Forces industry analysis framework (Luenendon, 2014:online)). Suppliers can influence consumer behaviour by justifying slow fashion investment pieces and persuading take-back recovery scheme participation (‘buyers’ become new resource ‘suppliers’ to retailers in RL/CLSC).

Marketing RL/CLSC products can be complicated.

‘Vendor concerns about brand equity can constrain brokers or secondary market retailer’s ability to market product’ (Ronald and Dale, 2002:280). Reemphasising the importance in establishing brand loyalty; consumer and supplier rapport.

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Industry Competition The literature review highlighted large fashion players wanting to manufacture more sustainable products. Economic potentials of RL/CLSC are identified by luxury players; LVMH are set to reduce emissions across its entire supply chain by 50% by 2025. Some luxury brands are taking accountability having successfully trialed CLSC i.e. Stella McCartney using ECONYL® technology turning nylon waste into first-grade nylon yarn (Stella McCartney, 2020:online). Recycling post-consumer waste is difficult due to textiles blends. Premium brands possess financial accessibility to technologies that recycle mixed fibres which are neither scaled-up or commercialised.

Technologies that recycle mixed fibres are neither scaled-up or commercialised.

Research tells among mass-market apparel retailers, ‘only 1% of new products introduced in the first half of this year were tagged sustainable’ (Cheng, 2019:online), showing potential for market shares and better service provision delivery amongst smaller players.

LCA comprehensively considers attributes of environments, human health, and resources. ISO 14040 describes the principles and framework for LCA (ISO, 2007:online) and could help assess how monofilament manufacturing would ease RL/CLSC processes at the end of traditional product lifecycles.

Product Recovery Analysis Product recovery systems can be enhanced by ‘forward-thinking retailers making returns consumer-centric’ (ASCG, 2020:8). ‘43% of consumers were more likely shop with retailers offering ‘greener’ return services, but only 23% would pay for such a service’ (ASCG, 2020:10). Small retailers must consider geographical access to CRC, costs of free returns to them, sorting/redistribution of returned products, inconsistent material flow in RL/CLSC, to negotiate profitable margins whilst encouraging consumers to return products for re-use- especially when volumes-driven sales is not the retailer’s primary goal. Alternative post-EPOS services could enhance a company’s ability to market its product. Bespoke repair services could be small brand capabilities (Pokharela and Mutha, 2009:178).

Local sourcing reduces retailer’s environmental footprint. This can be challenging as socially responsible materials/manufacturing may not be locally available. Slow fashion brands could create localised infrastructure to support RL/CLSC schemes (Burns,2019:86).

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Government Incentives Governments typically avert market involvement to enable competition, but tackling the climate emergency requires changing this paradigm, so that doing something ethical over financially competitive is feasible.

Sustainable retailers face competition from businesses prioritising profit over environment. Economic government incentives, such as reforming taxation to reward fashion companies that design products with lower environmental impacts and penalising those that do not, could increase opportune for smaller retailers to thrive using RL/CLSC (HOCEAC, 2019:3).

Industry Initiatives

Small UK businesses are sharing resources to build ‘smarter, more agile business models’

Retailers can show environmental leadership through industry initiative engagement. HOCEAC (2019:8), critiques SMEs for showing little sustainability effort, potentially resulting from lack of support; capacity; information; technological systems; appropriate performance metrics; training/education; commitment by top management; reluctance of support from dealers; distributors, and retailers.

‘Social compliance programmes include fashion brand’s commitment to industrywide initiatives; with goals to enhance responsible sourcing, production and purchasing; use of suppliers who have been certified as meeting standards associated with social compliance’ (Burns, 2019:128), i.e.

B Corp, Ethical Trading Initiative, Responsible Sourcing Network. Third Party Reverse Logistic Providers can improve the quality of products; product cost prices and identify areas for greater efficiency within RL/CLSC (Govindan et al., 2015:10).

Pokharela and Mutha (2009:177) discuss needs for collaboration in RL/CLSC. Small UK businesses are sharing resources to build ‘smarter, more agile business models’. 48% of start-ups currently share one or more physical assets (i.e. vehicles), with other businesses (Lobel, 2013:online). E.g. Sharing CRC attributes (i.e. warehouses) can increase worthwhileness of transporting returned products from smaller retailers; with significantly less inventory than large retailers.

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I N D U S T R Y R E C O M M E N D AT I O N S Informed by the literature review and industry analysis, the following are recommendations drawn as implementable RL/CLSC proposals for small fashion retailers. Pro-active approaches addressing the above could help to achieve relevant UN Sustainable Development Goals (Appendix 5). Recommendation strategies are outlined as follows: First proposed is ‘a comprehensive CLSC structure for fashion and a CLSC planning model associated with profit analysis of each member…to achieve optimal trade-off between total profit and CO2 emission on CLSC network’ (Oh and Jeong, 2014:9028). With consideration for the recovery options, repair, remanufacturing; recycling within RL. To implement sustainability within RL/CLSC, develop a proposal including practical (current situation) and strategic (future directions) perspectives. Incorporate commitments, goals, plans, and assessments (metrics/ processes for measuring performance) (Burns, 2019:202).

Sustainability must be cost-effective and ‘affordable for consumers’ (ASCG, 2020:10). Establish balance between ethics and profitability. Develop stochastic models to assess all possible outcomes to minimise economic risks of implementing RL/CLSC, market cannibalisation and returns uncertainty (Ilgin and Gupta, 2009:569).

Sustainable product return-plans are also recommended.

To financially benefit from RL/CLSC, drive sustainable practices into supply chains, incentivising supplier reform. Utilise overheads of direct-to-consumer models to provide wiggle-room to invest in sustainability (Cernansky, 2019:online).

Increase CRC accessibility; maximising efficiency by sharing transportation with other retailers within a geographical proximity or through collaborative infrastructural investments. Where possible, utilise local RL/CLSC systems and sourcing for minimised

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transportation emissions. Innovative third-party solutions and agile system strategies can help resolve inconsistent quantities of reverse-flow products.

Challenges include maintaining/adding value back up stream and small retailers potentially lacking resources, accessibility or capacity to achieve added value via upcycling. Sharing infrastructure with big industry players could resolve this. Designs considering sustainability, disassembly; material selection could make RL/CLSC processes less complex- product LCA can monitor progress.

Government legislation and existing initiative participation supporting smaller fashion players, could help maintain sustainable compliances against big industry players whom possess more immediate resources to implement RL/CLSC. For example, Governments should reward and penalise retail post-consumer waste accordingly. Charging producers 1p per garment could raise £35m to invest in better clothing collection and sorting in the UK (HOCEAC, 2019:4). Commercial opportunities driving sustainable procurement are viable forms of sustainable economic procurement practices.

Sourcing knowledgeable RL/CLSC personnel is important. With emphasis on talent management, SC operators leverage efficiencies through better engaging people involved (ASCG, 2020:11). Form a diverse team, including individuals involved with RL/CLSC processes alongside those involved with sustainability initiatives (Burns, 2019:202).

Incorporate strategies where possible, involving RL/ CLSC feedback (Burns, 2019:131). With smaller taskforces, executing roles and consistently supervising social risks within RL/CLSC to the highest capability may present challenges. Ongoing staff training; investing in people for slicker operations is advised.

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CONCLUSION Sustainability is projected to drive an ongoing trend of green supply chains, with particular focus on the value-recovery processes of RL/CLSC, therefore adopting more eco-centric approaches to fashion is important.

Upon looking at the combination of dynamics addressed within the report, effective RL/CLSC arguably begins with the initial design and garment manufacture.

Garments designed for disassembly or using monofilament technologies will be more easily processed within RL/CLSC systems. Therefore, ongoing communications across the whole supply chain network need to take place.

Limited research on small fashion retailers suggests that they are currently less economically attractive players within RL/CLSC, as volumes-sales orientated business models still dominate the fashion industry. Although often offering more sustainable, slow fashion services, financial and infrastructural restraints in the UK consistently prove to be the biggest hindrance preventing smaller retailers from implementing RL/CLSC. Encouraging government and industry incentives to implement RL/CLSC could bring more accessible systems within the capabilities of small UK retailers.

Internal industry competition to evolve fashion towards sustainability sees RL/CLSC strategies as competitive responses in addressing the issue within fashion supply chain management and logistics.

To drive sustainability into supply chains (Cernansky,2019:online), prioritising investments over profits as a short-term strategy, could advance technologies, infrastructures and collaborative systems, required to help formulate a network of smaller fashion retailers whom can share capacities to implement RL/CLSC and achieve a combined goal of increased sustainability and reduced post-consumer waste within fashion.

Although mounting environmental concerns, consumer pressures and CSR factors (Sood, 2017:online) will drive adoption of RL/CLSC practices as a part of eventually commercialised operation, further research specifically on smaller fashion retailers, is needed to truly understand the extent as to which RL/CLSC can make their operations substantially more sustainable.

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APPENDIX

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APPENDIX

Appendix 1

(Ronald and Dale, 2002:276)

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APPENDIX

Appendix 2

Done in anticipation of customer order.

Activity at this point is pulled by the customer order.

Push (reactive- initiated in response to a customer order) or pull (speculative- initiated in anticipation of customer orders).

(Dr Lascelles, 2020)

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APPENDIX

Appendix 3

(Dr Lascelles, 2020)

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APPENDIX Appendix 4

(Oh and Jeong, 2014:9031)

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APPENDIX Appendix 5

Relevant Sustainable Development Goals (SDG): SDG 5: Gender equality SDG 6: Clean water and sanitation SDG 8: Decent work and economic growth SDG 9: Industry innovation and infrastructure SDG 12: Responsible consumption and production SDG 13: Climate action SDG 14: Life below water SDG 15: Life on land

(UN, 2015:online)

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RL /CLSC Capacities for Small Fashion Retailers

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