RÆBURN: Rent Æ Statement Evaluative Proposition

MCR LAB MARKETING IN PRACTICE MA FASHION + BUSINESS

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RENT Æ STATEMENT

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CONTENTS................................................................................................................2 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY.........................................................................................6 THE PROPOSAL......................................................................................................7 BARRIERS WHEN ENTERING INTO THE RENTAL MARKET..................8 FACTORS FOR A SUCCESSFUL ENTRY STRATEGY..............................16 STRATEGY TO ENTER.......................................................................................24 SUMMARY OF FINDINGS..................................................................................28 APPENDIX:..............................................................................................................30 - Appendix 1: Ræburn Background.............................................................32 - Appendix 2: Market Situation: Generation Rent....................................33 - Appendix 3: Internal Market Situation: 4 P’s [Existing Brand]..........34 - Appendix 4: Internal Market Situation: 4 P’s [New Brand]...............36 - Appendix 5: Macro Situational Analysis: PESTEL [Existing].............38

CONTENTS

- Appendix 6: Macro Situational Analysis: PESTEL [New]...................40 - Appendix 7: Micro Situational Analysis: SWOT [Existing]..................42 - Appendix 8: Micro Situational Analysis: SWOT [New]........................44 - Appendix 9: Existing Consumer Profiles..................................................46 - Appendix 10: New Consumer Profiles.....................................................50 - Appendix 11: Competitor Analysis: Patagonia......................................54 - Appendix 12: Competitor Analysis: The North Face...........................55 - Appendix 13: Competitor Analysis: Ecoalf..............................................56 - Appendix 14: Competitor Analysis: Private White V.C........................57 - Appendix 15: Critical Success Factors.....................................................58 - Appendix 16: Porter’s 5 Forces.................................................................60 - Appendix 17: Ansoff Matrix..........................................................................61 - Appendix 18: Brand Positioning Maps....................................................62 - Appendix 19: Product Anatomy.................................................................64 REFERENCES.........................................................................................................66

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IMAGE REFERENCE LIST..................................................................................68

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W H AT ’ S A L L T H E B U Z Z ?

B E E Æ PA R T O F T H E R E N T O L U T I O N

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E X E C U T V I E S U M M A RY The purpose of this marketing audit is to

the products in use for much longer. Acting

outline the limitations and opportunities

as an ongoing stream of potential income,

surrounding the brand Ræburn, and

whilst radically reducing the need for Ræburn

effectively strategise the brands move into

to invest in new resources or labour for

the fashion rental market, by providing a new

garment manufacturing. But potential new

service which allows consumers to access

resources like garment take back systems

some of the brands most iconic pieces, via

and aftercare will have to be assessed for

an innovative, interactive, sustainably driven,

their environmental and financial feasibility, to

rental-based service.

which this is further explored within the audit.

The outcome of which is a strategy to support

Integration into the rental sector will be

business development, with the new proposal

assessed using a mix of business models to

being outreached via a multichannel

weigh up the possible threats and successes

promotional campaign across the relevant

this transition could bring.

promotion channels, and the service hub being launched in a new Manchester store.

Overall, this poses to be an exciting opportunity and new chapter for the Ræburn

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At surface value, the rental market will allow

brand as it strives towards market growth in

potentially repeat profits to be made from the

harmony with achieving the brands

same products over and over again, keeping

environmental and social goals.

PROPOSITION To l a u n c h t h e R e n t Æ S t a t e m e n t ser vice in an all new MCR LAB.

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B A R R I E R S TO E N T RY

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In order to gage the success of the Rent Æ Statement launch, the potential barriers to a successful market entry need identification and analysis, so that they can be either managed or minimised.

GOVERNMENT POLICY & LEGAL CONTROLS Brexit uncertainties must be considered for Rent Æ Statement in the same manner as required for Ræburn (Appendix 5). With the new service only being available to UK customers, the uncertainties of Brexit should hopefully be manageable with restricted implications to the brands market integration success (Appendix 6).

Additionally, the risks of big brands utilising the legal loophole of greenwashing to appear greener than they actually are may damage consumer perceptions of brands whom promote themselves as sustainable (Appendix 6), deterring them from trusting eco-brands.

To also consider the financial feasibility of Rent Æ Statement, the risk of people failing to return the products or using products to produce counterfeit knockoffs of Ræburn’s intricate designs must be considered as a manageable legal control.

FACTORS AFFECTING TARGET AUDIENCE The Rent Æ Statement collection will be curated from existing Ræburn designs across all collections excluding the 4 most recent collections. Ræburn predominantly

‘55.7% of consumers state that they prefer to own their wardrobe’

caters for menswear which somewhat limits the target demographic of the rental collection- opting for more unisex designs to feature in Rent Æ Statement will broaden the potential consumer demographic (Appendix 7).

over a desire to rent. None-the-less, effective marketing campaigns, can emphasise the economic, environmental and social desirability of rental fashion, to resonate with the appropriate consumer demographic.

Social factors may pose as a potential barrier, as rental fashion still carries social stigma (Appendix 8). This is supported by a survey which found that, ‘83.7% of UK consumers said they would be unlikely to rent clothing or accessories’ and a further ‘55.7% of consumers state that they prefer to own their wardrobe’ (GlobalData Retail, 2019:online). The bargaining power of buyers may see consumers still choose the ownership of buying a product

Many of the new target demographic are Gen Z, emphasised by their heavy involvement with the recent global climate strikes (Appendix 10). Whilst rental may appeal as a sustainable fashion channel, Gen Z’s capacity to buy into Rent Æ Statement’s service is a possible risk, due to potentially having a less stable income (Appendix 6), preventing capabilities of commitment to long term rental plans (Appendix 4). However, rental is still cheaper than purchasing and the creative and eco-social desirability of Ræburn’s designs should entice prioritising of wanting to buy into Rent Æ Statement.

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PRODUCT DIFFERENTIATION TO PRESENT A NEW, ALTERNATIVE & COMPELLING PROPOSITION With this, comes the risk that a lower entry price point may affect the brands more exclusive sports-luxe image and hence its desirability to Ræburn’s current, trend-driven premium consumer (Appendix 9), as those whom buy into Ræburn for the uniqueness and exclusivity of owning avant-garde sports-luxe designs. The current Ræburn consumer prioritises a higher economic allowance due to known investment into premium, intricate processes, giving the brand its crafty sports-luxe identity (Appendix 3).

The strategy to enter will outline the expansion into the new brand and market, without hurting the social-desirability to those that already buy Ræburn’s designs for exclusive factors, emphasised by the existing brands currently competitive pricing strategy (Appendix 3); reflective of ‘where daily design meets painstaking production’ (RÆBURN, 2019:online). A CFS Table identified that Rent Æ Statement scores on par with Patagonia in terms of price inclusion, yet Ræburn scores lower, also emphasising its premium price point. (Appendix 15). Maintaining the existing Ræburn customer base throughout this market expansion will be achieved by only offering Rent Æ Statement customers access to deigns that are at least 4 collections old. Therefore, enabling the most recent collections to be still exclusive to existing Ræburn customers. Overall, increasing the consumer market to be more inclusive, without damaging the brands image; minimising existing buyer’s propensity to substitute the brand (Appendix 16).

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ECONOMICS OF SCALE ENJOYED BY EXISTING PLAYERS New infrastructures, systems, technologies and staff training will need implementation in regard to the management of new inventories including staff at the MCR LAB and the Manchester based warehouse for the aftercare/laundering of the rental products in preparation for each new customer (Appendix 8). All of which requires financial, labour and time investment, meaning it will only be a sustainable; profitable model if enough repeat customers consistently use the service.

Furthermore, with brands like ‘North Face, Timberland and

‘North Face... considering introducing a rental clothing scheme as part of new focus on sustainability’

Vans…considering introducing a rental clothing scheme as part of a new focus on sustainability’ (Pinnock, 2019:online),

(Pinnock, 2019:online),

(Appendix 8) the competitiveness of these volume-sales driven brands to aggressively campaign such rental schemes must be monitored carefully. Offering potentially more geographically accessible alternatives for those whom have had limited exposure to Ræburn or the new Rent Æ Statement brand (Appendix 16). As well as holding greater financial capacity to put into place such systems- there is less financial risk if the schemes aren’t successful. Rent Æ Statement’s service must be focused to appeal to the right demographic to successfully build strong rapports, sustain repeat custom and avoid threat of brand substitution.

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STRENGTH OF EXISTING BRANDS Alongside the North Face whom are ‘considering introducing a rental clothing scheme as part of a new focus on sustainability’ (Pinnock, 2019:online) (Appendix 12), and Patagonia, a leader in sustainable fashion (Appendix 11), expected retaliation from brands in the local area could be a potential risk. If brands in close geographical proximity to the MCR LAB in Spring Gardens, like Vivienne Westwood or Patagonia, see the successes of Rent Æ Statement, they may replicate the rental business model, increasing local competition (Appendix 16).

Private White V.C. offer high quality customer service; lifelong repairs on garments and utilise a strong and engaged Instagram following as a promotional outreach (Appendix 14). Whilst Rent Æ Statement wishes to offer similar high-quality customer service and sustainable garment solutions, the rental aspect and sporty aesthetics of the brand should be the USP and differentiator when competing for Manchester based customers of a similar ethos.

The importance of which is highlighted by the fact that the overall ‘number of sustainable apparel items available worldwide surged’ between 2016-2018 by 508%, indicating retailers and consumers increased enthusiasm’ (Kaucic and Lu, 2019:online), and a potentially increasingly saturated, sustainable apparel market (Appendix 7).

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THE NORTH FACE, THE TRAFFORD CENTRE

PATAGONIA, CENTRAL RETAIL DISTRICT

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, SPRING GARDENS

PRIVATE WHITE V.C., SALFROD

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RÆBURN, POP-UP STORE

ACCESS TO CHANNELS OF DISTRIBUTION The level as to which there is a need for consumers to access

luxury

because,

streetwear

as

must

highlighted

by

be

measured the

effectively

Ansoff

Matrix

(Appendix 17), diversification of a new product [service] into a

new

market

is

associated

with

the

most

risk.

Rent Æ Statement will be launched into the Manchester market with a new MCR LAB (Appendix 4), mirroring the ethos of the current Lab in Hackney London (Appendix 3). This may be a geographical hindrance for those whom wish to experience the new brand in a brick + mortar context (Appendix 8).

As the existing Ræburn brand does not currently have a Manchester

store,

which

would

give

the

new

brand

some foundational exposure to potential customers in the Greater Manchester area, the intention is to launch the MCR LAB with an accompanying Instagram account to help establish a following community and have greater promotional outreach.

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FA C TO R S F O R S U C C E S S F U L E N T RY THE CONSCIOUS CONSUMER With a growing environmentally conscious consumer psyche and increasing pressure from government policies to make more sustainable commitments (Appendix 5), the need for access to fashion which enables style without decrementing and diminishing the environment is increasing. Evidenced by a decline in people actually buying clothes, ‘with the percentage of those buying clothes every two to three months declining between 2017 and 2018’ (Fabiani, 2019:online).

Ræburn is built around upcycling and the ethos of Ræmade, Ræduced, Ræcycled (RÆBURN, 2019) which will be carried through to Rent Æ Statement due to using products from the existing brand, providing an immediate competitive advantage over brands whom currently neglect sustainable practices (Appendix 5).

Additionally, the new consumer profiles identify purchase occasions stemming from customer loyalty and the social, environmental benefits sought. With psychographics of being trend-setters, environmentally conscious, open to experiential retail, and desires to lead by the front of innovation, all nodding towards a successful response upon entry into the new market (Appendix 10).

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There is also a need for retail experiences which do not require permanent ownership over a product. Wallman argues the focus is shifting to “experientialism” – focusing on having nice experiences instead of on acquiring more stuff” (Poole, 2015). Experiencing a Ræburn design makes the users time with that garment meaningful and valuable. Rental satisfies the need for newness as a component of self-image in an environmentally responsible manner, solving the contemporary problem of stuffocation – ‘the feeling of being overwhelmed and weighed down by material things’ (Macmillan Dictionary, n,d.). Ownership is a limited mentality on a world with finite resources. Raeburn’s designs will become more accessible, allowing several customers to appreciate the craftmanship, design; environmental ethos embedded within a single garment, and feel part of the exclusive Rent Æ Statement community.

The new rental service will further align the brands practices and systematic operations with the expanding circular economy. Whilst the brands origins focus heavily on designing out waste through upcycling, the rental service heavily draws on keeping products and materials in use for as long as possible (Appendix 6).

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MANCHESTER MOVES Ræburn currently only has two brand housed brick + mortar stores- both in London (Appendix 3)which is a geographical hindrance, especially in North England, for those whom may want to experience the brand in a physical environment.

Furthermore, an identified growth in demand for affordable luxury and sustainable fashion solutions which don’t compromise on style means an increase in market opportunity.

Commonly referred to as the capital of the North, Manchester is ‘one of the fastest growing cities in Europe’ with ‘companies in the culture, creative and digital sectors…thriving’ (RÆBURN, 2019:online) making it the ideal location for the new MCR LAB which addresses the identified market growth opportunities (Appendix 4).

Furthermore, with current Brexit uncertainties, keeping this new brand as operational in the UK should see these potential uncertainties have limited effect on general business operations.

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‘Manchester is ‘one of the fastest growing cities in Europe’

MCR LAB CONCEPT

LOCATION: SPRING GARDENS

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SITUATIONAL ANALYSIS A micro-situational analysis identified several strengths and

The Generation Rent Market Situation analysis (Appendix 2),

opportunities to the new brand and consumers for expanding into

highlights that Business of Fashion predicts the ‘End of Ownership’

the rental market.

(Amed et al., 2019:16) as fashion products lifespans become more ‘elastic’. With the global rental market size projected to ‘to reach

Ræburn proudly adopts an avant-garde take on sports luxe

USD 2.09 billion by 2025’ (End Use et al., 2019).

meet sustainability. Therefore, Rent Æ Statement gets Ræburn’s products in front of consumers whom may otherwise feel

Rent Æ Statement holds the potential capacity to become a pioneer

apprehensive about wearing more outlandish designs. It is a way

and leading competitor in paving the way for rental sports-luxe with

for consumers to experiment with new brands with growing values

this niche market, to offer customers something new. Emphasising

invested in experience over possessions. Uber, Spotify; Airbnb are

this new USP and utilising ‘the strength of customer reviews and

all examples of where this has been adopted in other industries

ensuring items are as good as new to dispel any apprehensions

(Appendix 8). Rental is a ‘low-risk way to try new brands and

and ensure repeat custom’(GlobalData Retail, 2019:online)

allows for a never-ending rotation of outfits that can be shown

(Appendix 8) will help to ensure the successful operational

off on social media’ (Pinnock, 2019:online). Making it particularly

running’s of this new service.

relevant for the identified Gen Z and millennial, tech savvy target demographic (Appendix 10).

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PRODUCT DIFFERENTIATION The new brand name, ‘Rent Æ Statement’ incorporates the existing brands visual typographical identity whilst being punchy and summarising the new purpose, helping people to make associations to the existing brand and what that represents. Ræburn’s commitment to quality is already embedded within the garments as they have already been made. Maintaining this quality after each rental occasion will be the priority for this new service (Appendix 4).

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COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE As the proposed service requires both parties to adopt a role as a key player in order for this service to function, brand loyalty will be homed in on with this rental service, by creating a two-way communicative network between Rent Æ Statement and the service user- in turn also lessening the threats of new market entrants (Appendix 16).

A Critical Success Factors analysis highlighted that the new Rent Æ Statement brand scored higher than Ræburn in terms of innovative style (in the context of an innovative fashion solution), sustainability and price inclusion. All of which highlights the proposed benefits of branching out to include a wider target demographic (Appendix 15).

When using the same critical success factors and weighting factors, Rent Æ Statement had the highest adjusted score out of Patagonia, the North Face and Ecoalf also. Scoring as highly as Patagonia- a leader in the sustainable fashion (Appendix 11)- in sustainability and as high as styling competitor Ecoalf in terms of offering innovative style. Overall the CSF table is a factor highlighting successful entry into the new market.

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The following appropriate market strategy is in response to the analysed market and competitive challenges. With aims to introduce the new rental service and brand which will help to achieve the existing Ræburn’s brands objectives of expanding the customer base through the new Rent Æ Service brand and an MCR LAB acting as the hub for the new brand, whilst still maintaining an exclusivity for existing customers. The mission of which will demonstrate further commitment the brands sustainable ethos and help pioneer the rental revolution for sports-luxe fashion. The new strategic plan

S T R AT E G Y TO E N T E R

for the brand is diversification and integration of the rental service, offering exclusive; temporary accessibility to some of Ræburn’s most iconic designs, without the environmental burden or financial limitations of permanent ownership.

Appendix 4 consists of a detailed 4 P’s analysis, outlining the Rent Æ Service entry to the new Manchester and rental market, with in depth analysis of the new target consumer identified in Appendix 10.

The anatomy of the service (Appendix 19), breaks down the core, tangible, augmented and potential product [service] on offering. The garments available to rent will be at least four

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collections old so that existing Ræburn customers still

The positioning strategy for Rent Æ Statement, which will

have exclusivity embedded within in their purchase power.

determine how it competes, sees Rent Æ Statement positioned more similarly (though still more premium) to

The following marketing programmes have been

the aspirational streetwear brand North Face, due to the

chosen to promote the launch of the new brand/service

increased price accessibility, (Appendix 18), but with still

and deemed the most appropriate forms of promotional

as much environmental creditability as Ræburn.

outreaches for appealing to the new target demographic, outlined in Appendix 10.

Products selected for the rental collections will be available to rent for a month-long period at a 75%

Sales promotions for the rental collection will go out via

reduced price point. For those whom wish to make the

email to rental subscribers and promoted on social media

rental service more permanent, a membership subscription

to the brands following. Advertisement posters will be put

will be available. Rental products can be booked out

up around Greater Manchester to share teasers of the

either on the website or in the MCR LAB. This can then

new MCR LAB and rental collection and create a buzz

be secured with a 10% deposit fee with the rest paid

around the launch. Public relations will include a launch

upon invoice request a week prior to the items due

event for the new MCR LAB and an i-D Magazine feature

dispatch or all as upfront cost, depending on the

discussing the brands shift to rental. Direct marketing in

customer’s preference. The subscription payment plan can

the form of Emails and newsletters will go out to all whom

either be paid monthly across the 12 months or all up

are currently signed up to Ræburn to spread the message

front at the start of the subscription. Whilst the MCR LAB

and potentially entice existing customers into trying Rent

will act as the central hub to the Rent Æ Statement

Æ Statement. New Instagram and Facebook accounts will

collection, distribution of rented products will be

be launched to promote content regarding updates on

accessible to the whole of the UK, including Northern

both the MCR LAB and Rent Æ Statement collection.

Ireland. See Appendix 4 for more detail.

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PROMOTIONAL POSTER #1

PROMOTIONAL POSTER #2

PROMOTIONAL POSTER #3

R E N T Æ S TAT E M E N T

M C R L A B LAB

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MCR LAB

PROMOTIONAL POSTER #4

RENT Æ S TAT E M E N T

i-D MAGAZINE FEATURE

w hat’s all the buzz? it’s the rentolution calling

Christopher Ræburn speaks exclusively with i-D Magazine to discuss his exciting new venture of expanding his iconic brand into the clothing rental market.

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According to the findings from the micro-situational analysis and macro market analysis, Rent Æ Statement ultimately maintains the embodiment and ethos of the existing Ræburn brand.

The service will appeal to those whom wish to experiment with fashion, giving opportune to new customers to explore styles which they may have otherwise deemed too outlandish, with the confidence that the item can be used, appreciated and enjoyed before becoming accessible to another customer.

This method of experiencing fashion is less of a financial risk or burden for customers as rental products cost significantly less to hire out than outright buying Ræburn products upfront. Afterall, sustainability should not be a privilege to which only those of higher affluence can access or attain.

The analysis identified growing appetites for more sustainable fashion solutions, global growth in the rental market; Manchester as a thriving creative city, proud of its urban heritage, where there is likely to be a strong consumer base wishing to trial such a service and visit the MCR LAB.

If there was one stand out negation, it would be the risk that launching the more inclusive Rent Æ Statement brand would jeopardise the social and desirable exclusivity of Ræburn. However, by choosing products that are at least 4 collections old, this should keep both customer bases satisfied with what the brands offerings represent in a social context.

Overall, the benefits of moving into rental would include, but not be limited to, strengthening brand reputation as a key player in sustainability; cementing customer satisfaction and loyalty though increased interaction and rapport; and an overall reduced brand environmental footprint, inferring successful entry into the new market.

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APPENDIX

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APPENDIX:..............................................................................................................30 - Appendix 1: Ræburn Background.............................................................32 - Appendix 2: Market Situation: Generation Rent....................................33 - Appendix 3: Internal Market Situation: 4 P’s [Existing Brand]..........34 - Appendix 4: Internal Market Situation: 4 P’s [New Brand]...............36 - Appendix 5: Macro Situational Analysis: PESTEL [Existing].............38 - Appendix 6: Macro Situational Analysis: PESTEL [New]...................40 - Appendix 7: Micro Situational Analysis: SWOT [Existing]..................42 - Appendix 8: Micro Situational Analysis: SWOT [New]........................44 - Appendix 9: Existing Consumer Profiles..................................................46 - Appendix 10: New Consumer Profiles.....................................................50 - Appendix 11: Competitor Analysis: Patagonia......................................54 - Appendix 12: Competitor Analysis: The North Face...........................55 - Appendix 13: Competitor Analysis: Ecoalf..............................................56 - Appendix 14: Competitor Analysis: Private White V.C........................57 - Appendix 15: Critical Success Factors.....................................................58 - Appendix 16: Porter’s 5 Forces.................................................................60 - Appendix 17: Ansoff Matrix..........................................................................61 - Appendix 18: Brand Positioning Maps....................................................62 - Appendix 19: Product Anatomy.................................................................64

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R Æ B U R N B A C KG R O U N D

APPENDIX 1

Christopher Raeburn graduated from London’s

highly collaborative spirit informs luxurious, handcrafted and award-winning products with integrity

‘prestigious’ Royal College of Art in 2006 (Fashion Review,

and purpose’ (RÆBURN, 2019:online).

2018), before going on to work as a freelance pattern cutter for a handful of London fashion houses. In 2008,

Ultimately, the Ræburn ethos underpins everything the brand does which, identified as the 4 R’s:

however, Ræburn focused his energy on the launch of his

RÆMADE, RÆDUCED, RÆCYCLED, RÆBURN (RÆBURN, 2019). With this ethos translating into

own brand, to passionately pursue the ‘challenge of creating

garments with global appeal, Ræburn currently has stockists worldwide including ‘London’s

ethical menswear; womenswear’, luggage and accessories.

Harvey Nichols, Brussels’s Heleluja, Porto’s Wrong Weather, Chicago’s Ikram and New York’s debut NY’ (Fashion Review, 2018:online).

The ‘re-appropriation of military fabrics and in particular for iconic outerwear created from de-commissioned parachutes’ (LFW, n,d.:online) quickly became synonymous with the brands

Closer to home, Ræburn also shares his passion for eco-fashion with the closer community via

identity as Ræburn began to establish the brand as a key player in driving innovative sustainable

the Hackney, London, based Ræburn Lab, where ‘attendees are invited to design and

practices and mould-breaking aesthetic in sustainable clothing. Ræburn’s designs are still led by

customise their own items using off-cuts from the atelier’, but also as an ‘experiential retail store’

sports and active wear meets luxe bespoke streetstyle.

(RÆBURN, 2019:online), where people came come to experience the collections. A clear vision for providing customers with sustainable fashion, designed with integrity, purpose, functionality,

Ræburn’s first collection, titled ‘Inverted’ (Fashion Review, 2018), was a capsule

with a unique creative stamp make Ræburn one of the most exciting independent designers

collection of reversible garments which debuted at London Fashion week. Today Ræburn

growing in the sustainable fashion movement at the moment.

now has an extensive portfolio of collaborations under his belt where ‘distinctive aesthetic, meticulous detail, considered functionality, and sustainable intelligence’ (LFW, n,d.:online) has

Valuing accessibility to the brand, Ræburn demonstrates commitment to share his work,

been channelled to challenge public perceptions of what eco-fashion should look like.

craftsmanship and ethos with the community, as highlighted through the workshops hosted at the Hackney Lab.

Ræburn quotes “it’s thrilling to create something that really represents exactly what we’re about

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as a brand”. ‘Collaboration, playfulness and innovative design are in our DNA’ (RÆBURN,

However, a new proposed business venture of expanding Ræburn into the rental market could

2019:online). Disney, Eastpak, Unmade, The North Face and most recently Timberland are just a

see the brand not only continue to cement its role as a key player in the larger circular fashion

few of the name Ræburn has collaborated with to date, as the brands website highlights that ‘a

movement but revolutionise the sports-luxe and upcycled retail sectors altogether.

M A R K E T S I T UAT I O N : Generation Rent

APPENDIX 2

Business of Fashion predicts the ‘End of Ownership’ (Amed et al., 2019:16) as fashion products lifespans become more ‘elastic’. ‘Fashion players will increasingly tap into this market to gain access to new consumers seeking both affordability and a move away from the permanent ownership of clothing’.

A higher price entry point makes the current Ræburn brand less accessible to those of lesser affluence, whom may wish to wear Ræburn creations, (Appendix 7) which is where rental would enable more consumers to make more environmentally conscious purchase decisions without having to compromise on style.

The necessity of a new rental service is emphasised by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017:online), which claims that ‘every second, the equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles is landfilled or burned. An estimated USD 500 billion value is lost every year’ as a result. Asking the question of what happens to Ræburn products once consumers no longer want them, raises questions about where Ræburn may fall short in its eco ethos (Appendix 7).

WRAP UK (2015:online), state that ‘extending the life of clothes by just nine extra months of active use would reduce carbon, water and waste footprints by around 20-30% each.’ Suggesting a real opportunity to further align the brands practices with the growing concept of the circular fashion economy which has increased traction over recent years. (Appendix 7).

‘Equally, the provision of high quality, long-lived clothing offers a very real opportunity to reduce emissions associated with clothing over the longer term’ (The Carbon Trust, 2011:13). On average ‘over 50 items of clothing purchased every year by each person on average in the UK’ and consumers are still very brand focused (Appendix 5).

‘The global online clothing rental market size is expected to reach USD 2.09 billion by 2025’ (End Use et al., 2019). The overall number of brands promoting environmental considerations is on the rise, especially with a growing shift in consumer zeitgeist towards sustainability (Appendix 5). Ræburn has a unique opportunity to branch out into this new market whilst it’s still a relatively new and untapped into market, with huge proposed financial benefits if executed effectively and correctly.

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PRODUCT

I N T E R N A L M A R K E T S I T UAT I O N 4 P’s Marketing Mix: Existing Brand PRODUCT VARIETY: Ræburn’s core products are coats and bags

BRAND NAME: ‘Christopher Raeburn’ rebranded in January 2019,

made out of reworked textile products. However, products have

to ‘Ræburn’ in mark of the brands 10-year anniversary, which

branched out to include hats, water bottles, dog leads, notebooks,

was accompanied by a ‘new logo in recognition of where our

cushions and pin badges, emphasising the link to sportswear and

brand began – an iconic, graphic interpretation of a 28’ parachute’

activity. ‘Each season, Raeburn designs an animal to sit alongside

(Wightman-Stone, 2019:online).

the collection... crafted using the fabric off-cuts from the rest of the collection…the animals are an apt representation of the season’s

PACKAGING: Packaging for delivered products usually comprise of

character’ (WUHAO, n,d.:online).

cardboard boxes which endorse the brand logo in some format.

QUALITY: “We focus on quality and innovation in all that we do,”

SIZES: Offer online sizing guidance in mostly ‘standard UK/US

says Christopher. “I am particularly drawn to the functionality of

measurements. ‘General size guides’ are listed in tables, including

military materials. These are fabrics that you can’t buy on a roll if

Men’s, Women’s and Unisex conversions (RÆBURN, 2019).

you wanted to, but they are very hard-wearing, waterproof and can be transformed into high quality, functional and elegant outerwear”

SERVICES: ‘Free Repairs’, ‘Click + Collect’, ‘Gift wrapping’, ‘Down-

(UK Trade & Investment, 2013:online). Ræburn’s commitment to

load Assets’ (RÆBURN, n,d.), as well as ‘private made to order

high-quality, long lasting products arguably commands a justified

appointments at the RÆBURN Lab’ (RÆBURN, 2019:online) and a

higher price point.

‘newsletter’ for ‘exclusive offers and latest updates. Also offer ‘Free delivery on all orders over £150.00 and ‘a free repairs service…[for]

DESIGN FEATURES: Ræburn’s style is distinct for several reasons.

any RÆBURN product no matter how old’ (RÆBURN, 2019).

The hybrid of contemporary deconstruction patchwork, blended with

34

graphical typography; injected with a pop of vivid colour creates,

RETURNS:’14-Day Return Policy’, free of charge via the DPD store

statement, bold and striking pieces. Widely recognised for use of

network, if the returned product is unused and otherwise in a

repurposed military fabrics (Fashion Review,2018), like parachutes,

condition enabling us to sell the product as new’

into intelligent functional garments.

(RÆBURN, 2019:online).

APPENDIX 3

painstaking production’ (RÆBURN, 2019:online) in constructing fashion pieces which are designed and embedded with sustainable production and

CHANNELS: Ræburn’s outreach is both based in brick + mortar locations and accessible via an omni-channelled mix of promotional outreaches.

COVERAGE: Ræburn currently delivers to countries all

innovation. Entry level products of Mascot Pin Badges

over the globe including the UK, Europe, Asia, USA and

for £5.00 and printed socks attainable for £15.00 are

the Rest of the World.

the lowest price point items. The highest price point on

PROMOTION

competitive and reflective of ‘where daily design meets

PLACE

PRICE

LIST PRICE: Ræburn’s pricing strategy is currently

SALES PROMOTION: Banner on the navigation menu under ‘Shop’ titled ‘Sale’. Prices individually reduced next to products. Sales promotions are more subtle due to more high-end nature of the brand.

ADVERTISING: Heavily weighted on social media and editorial shoots.

PUBLIC RELATIONS: Events and workshops hosted for

the website is £1999.00 for the iconic ‘Safety Parka’

LOCATIONS: The Ræburn Lab opens every

and ‘Off-Cut Insulation Puffa’ (RÆBURN, n,d.). However,

Wednesday-Sunday (12:00 - 18:00), based in

consumers which strengthen brand rapport. Does lots

only 3 items in total are available online priced between

Hackney, London. Ræburn also has stockists across the

of magazine features and interviews in regard to the

£1000.00- £1999.00, whilst 235 results are available

UK in Selfridges in Oxford Street London; Pilot in

sustainable practice’s motivation and processes.

online between the price points of £5.00 and £1000.00

Leicester, Zoo Fashions in Ilford, as well as 7 other

(RÆBURN, n,d.).

stockists across Europe and a further 16 across the

DIRECT MARKETING: Option for customer to sign up to

rest of the world- including USA, Canada, Russia, China

email newsletter and receive offers and promotions via

(RÆBURN, 2019).

email.

DISCOUNTS: Ræburn’s official website contains a header titled ‘Sale’, however, there are currently no products matching this selection at the date of access

DIGITAL MARKETING: Ræburn’s social media outreach

(RÆBURN, n,d.). Some individual items are reduced on

spans across Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Vimeo,

their individual item page.

YouTube, Pinterest and LinkedIn. Digital look book’s available on website.

ALLOWANCES: The current Ræburn consumer prioritises an allowance that is slightly higher due to known investment into craftsmanship, sustainable practices, intricate design painstaking processes. All of which cost a premium which give the brand it’s sports-luxe identity.

PAYMENT PERIOD: Customer payments made upfront for buying a product either instore or online.

35

PRODUCT

I N T E R N A L M A R K E T S I T UAT I O N 4 P’s Marketing Mix: New Brand PRODUCT VARIETY: A hand-selected range of favourable

BRAND NAME: ‘Rent Æ Statement’: it incorporates the brands visual

pieces will be selected for the Rent Æ Statement

typographical identity whilst being punchy and summarising the purpose.

collection, spanning from across all of Ræburn’s work and collections over the years that are at least 4 collections old.

PACKAGING: For the packaging of rental products, Ræburn will

Additionally, keeping in with the theme of previous collec-

collaborate with the RePack. ‘RePack is a reusable and returnable

tions and joining ‘the hare, the fox and the squirrel’ (WUHAO,

packaging service, that provides reusable, adjustable bags made from

n,d.:online) to name a few, the Manchester worker bee, an

durable and recycled materials’ (RePack, 2019:online). This prevents

‘iconic part of Manchester’s coat of arms since the 1800s’

the need for new packaging with each customer as it keeps perfectly

(Bee in the City n,d.:online) will be manufactured from scrap

usable systems in circulation for as long as possible, supporting the

fabrics and available as a small keepsake mascot for those

brands environmental ethos.

whom rent a garment (1 available per person), to incentivise the Manchester community participation in the new rent service.

SIZES: The same sizing procedures and guidelines available on the official Ræburn website will also apply within the Rental brand.

QUALITY: Ræburn’s commitment to quality is already

36

embedded within the garments as they have already been

SERVICES: The rental service itself includes access to some of Ræburn’s

made. Maintaining this quality after each rental occasion will

most iconic designs. Click and collect, home delivery and instore rental

be the priority for this new service, meaning effective aftercare,

fees are all included within the price of rental/subscription price, giving

repair and laundering systems will need implementation.

flexibility to the customer about how they can receive the garment.

DESIGN FEATURES: The collection will feature garments that

RETURNS: Returns are a cost-inclusive part of the rental service, but

are striking and bold, making them highly aspirational and

ease of return will be a priority for ensuring customer satisfaction. If the

desirable in the eye of the customer. The worker bee animal

process is too complex, it risks deterring a customer from wanting to

toy will be hand-held sized and abstract and graphic.

repeat the rental service or even buy into the brand again at all.

APPENDIX 4

a 75% reduced price point. For those whom wish to make the rental service more permanent, a membership subscription fee will be available for £120

CHANNELS: A brick and mortar hub in Manchester with an accompanying Instagram account.

COVERAGE: Whilst the MCR LAB will act as the central hub to the Rent Æ Statement collection, distribution of

a month (£1,200.00 per annum), permitting the member

rented products will be accessible to the whole of the

to a Bee Æ Part of Rentolution Manchester bee toy

UK, including Northern Ireland.

and up to 3 items of choice per month. A waiting list will be developed for garments in high demand.

LOCATIONS: The new rental LAB will be based in Spring

PROMOTION

will be available to rent for a month-long period at

PLACE

PRICE

LIST PRICE: Products selected for the rental collections

SALES PROMOTION: Sales promotions for the rental collection will go out via email to rental subscribers and promoted on social media to the brands following and potential fresh audience.

ADVERTISING: City posters will be put up to share teasers of the new store and collection and create a buzz around the launch. Public relations: launch event for the new MCR LAB store and i-D Magazine Feature.

Gardens, making it central to the city of Manchester and DISCOUNTS: Consumers whom subscribe to the rental

more equally accessible to potential customers across

DIRECT MARKETING: Emails and newsletter features will

service can access rental garments at an overall lesser

the whole of Greater Manchester. Manchester is ‘one

go out to all whom are currently signed up to spread

price per garment than those whom rent one-off’s or

of the fastest growing cities in Europe, with ‘companies

the message and hopefully entice existing customers

rent regularly without a subscription plan.

in the culture, creative and digital sectors... thriving’

into trying Ræburn rental.

(RÆBURN, 2019). The capital of the North is a place ALLOWANCES: Coming from a consumer’s perspective,

seeing industry booming and seemed fittingly

DIGITAL MARKETING: New Instagram and Facebook

less available allowance will still qualify more inclusive

appropriate for the launch of the new MCR LAB.

accounts launched to host both the MCR LAB and Rent

accessibility to the rental collection as the entry press

Æ Statement collection.

point is significantly less that out right purchasing a

INVENTORY: Will also include a separate warehouse

Ræburn product.

with specialist machinery towards the edges of central Manchester, housing aftercare and repair technologies

PAYMENT PERIOD: Rental products can be booked out

as well as transit inventory.

either on the website or by coming into the MCR LAB, to allocate a time slot for that individual customer. This can then be secured with a 10% deposit fee with the rest paid upon invoice request a week prior to the items due dispatch. The subscription payment plan can either be paid monthly across the 12 months or all up front at the start of the subscription.

37

sensitive to the policies and politics that shape cross-border trade’ (Young, 2019:31).

‘If there is a no-deal EU exit, there may be changes to tariffs on good entering the UK from

be affected by Brexit, which may be an issue for Ræburn’s brick and mortar stores.

Current demographic mostly millennial age group. More likely to have stable income or higher

the EU… impacts on the speed

disposable income to spend on

of goods coming through

more premium brands.

the EU borders, changes in VAT’ (Business Growth Hub, 2019:online).

Brexit uncertainty in the business environment and global markets. Ræburn distributes worldwide so how this will be affected needs to be closely monitored.

38

Value of the sterling pound may

APPENDIX 5

SOCIAL

‘Fashion is inherently

ECONOMIC

POLITICAL

M A C R O S I T UAT I O N A L A N A LYS I S PESTEL Analysis: Existing Market

Consumers are increasingly brand focused.

Number of brands promoting environmental considerations is on the rise in response to growing consumer awareness.

Strong Instagram following but engagement of posts is really low and not overly gender inclusive, aimed more at masculine audience.

Does not currently work with celebrities or influencers to endorse the brand, which could help brands publicity and promotion (influencer market).

Ræburn’s ethos is built around upcycling military materials and the ethos of Ræmade, Ræduced, Ræcycled, which gives the brand an immediate

LEGAL

to online retail to compete.

E N V I R O N M E N TA L

TECHNOLOGICAL

More and more brands moving

Increasing pressure from government policies to make more sustainable commitments.

Evidenced by when the UK Parliament declared a climate

competitive advantage over

change emergency earlier this

brands whom currently neglect

year (BBC, 2019).

sustainable practices. Especially with a growing shift in consumer

Operational policies and laws

zeitgeist towards sustainability.

vary across different countries.

Ræburn must be mindful of this due to operating and delivering to so many countries across the globe.

39

service is only being operated within the UK, the uncertainties and potential effects of Brexit should be partially minimised.

However, there are still uncertainties.

A lot of the new demographic fall into the Gen Z demographic (born in the late 90s and early 2000s), meaning they may not have a highly stable income, enabling them to commit to long term rental subscription plans.

Less frequent, singular rental purchases more likely.

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APPENDIX 6

SOCIAL

As the Rent Æ Statement

ECONOMIC

POLITICAL

M A C R O S I T UAT I O N A L A N A LYS I S PESTEL Analysis: New Market

Making environmentally friendly lifestyle decisions and conscious consumerism is fast becoming an aspirational social status. Purchase behaviours demonstrate someone’s ethics and values as well as identity.

communications and promotional outreach.

New industrial technologies will need implementation for the repair, aftercare and laundering of rental products.

The new rental service will further align the brands practices and systematic operations with the expanding circular economy. This is done

LEGAL

Instagram as a platform for

E N V I R O N M E N TA L

TECHNOLOGICAL

Will have heavy usage of

Risks of people stealing products by not returning them or making or producing counterfeit knockoffs by copying the designs.

by feeding into the following concepts as identified by the

Other brands irresponsibly

Ellen MacArthur Foundation

greenwashing risks

(n,d.:online): ‘Design out waste

tarnishing trust between

and pollution, keep products

consumers and brands whom

and materials in use,

are actually committed to

regenerate natural systems’.

their sustainable pledges.

Whilst the brands origins focus

Transparency between the

heavily on designing out waste

brand and Ræburn’s

through upcycling, the rental

consumers will be vital to

service heavily draws on

prevent allegations of

keeping products and materials

greenwashing which would be

in use for as long as possible.

not only falsified but tarnishing for the brands reputation.

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M I C R O S I T UAT I O N A L A N A LYS I S SWOT Analysis: Existing Market

APPENDIX 7

Environmental considerations & sustainable practices

Collaborations with other brands

‘Currently developing a made to order online customisation tool… also offering private made to order appointments at the RÆBURN Lab’ (RÆBURN, 2019).

Hosts regular events, workshops, pop-up stores which help really develop the brands

WEAKNESS

STRENGTH

I N T E R N A L FA C T O R S Consumers’ capacity for spending on luxury items- Raeburn is exclusive not accessible for all.

Higher price entry point makes brand less accessible to those whom may wish to wear Ræburn creations.

What happens to products once consumer’s no longer want them, is this where Ræburn fall’s short in its eco ethos?

community.

Entry price point for actual wearable fashion pieces is quite high.

Combined Instagram following of 49.78k. (48k @raeburn_design (@raeburn_design, n,d.), 1,078 @raeburn_retail (@raeburn_retail, n,d.), utilised for promotional outreach.

Limited range for Women’s wear in comparison to Men’s.

Ræburn USP is playful adaptation of street-style meets sports-luxe. Product quality and

Currently only publicly accessible retail owned spaces are RÆBURN Lab, Hackney,

brand rapport is strong.

London and ‘3 Newburgh Street, Carnaby, London (@raeburn_retail, n,d.) for the retail store, which is a geographical hindrance for those whom may want to experience the brand in a brick + mortar context.

42

Growing consumer demand for sustainable solutions which do not compromise on style, means an increase in market opportunity.

Growth in demand for affordable luxury.

‘The number of sustainable apparel items available worldwide surged from 58,144 SKUs

T H R E AT

OPPORTUNITY

E X T E R N A L FA C T O R S Growing consumer concern about fashions environmental destruction has resulted in not just increased demand for sustainable fashion but an increase in brands whom now claim to supply sustainable products, e.g. H&M conscious. Whilst not a direct competitor of Ræburn, big brands carrying out greenwashing, could attract new eco-consumes away from smaller independent brands whom actually carry the ethos of meaningful sustainable purpose.

in 2016 to around 353,817 SKUs in 2018, ‘up 508%, indicating retailers and consumers increased enthusiasm’. (Kaucic and Lu, 2019:online)

Attracting new customers could be an issue when competing against big brands whom claim to be more sustainable than they actually are.

Opportunity to further align brands practices with the growing concept of the circular fashion economy which has increased traction over recent years.

Ræburn has launched an AW2019 collection with Timberland. Potential to build on collaborations and develop a rental community in Greater Manchester.

43

M I C R O S I T UAT I O N A L A N A LYS I S SWOT Analysis: Existing Market

APPENDIX 8

Rental gets brands in front of consumers whom may not otherwise wear them.

Redefine what entry-level products are. Great style shouldn’t be exclusive and should not cost the earth.

Rental is a low risk way for consumers to try new brands. Raeburn is proud of his avant-garde take on sports luxe meet sustainability.

Growing values invested in experience over possessions. Uber, Spotify, Airbnb are all examples of where this has been adopted in other industries.

Rental is a ‘low-risk way to try new brands and allows for a never-ending rotation of outfits that can be shown off on social media’ (Pinnock, 2019:online). Particularly relevant for tech savvy target demographic.

44

WEAKNESS

STRENGTH

I N T E R N A L FA C T O R S Aftercare and laundering of rental products upon being returned, so they can be ready for next customer requires new systems, infrastructure and resources to be implemented, e.g. aftercare, repairs, cleaning, repackaging. Systems which will require new resources, new training for staff, new roles and funding. This is new territory for the brand and a potential risk for the brands profitability if not pulled off effectively and efficiently.

Geographical hindrance for those whom may want to experience the new brand in a brick + mortar context, as only brick and mortar location in the North of England.

Opportunity to develop a new Instagram account for MCR LAB to share progress and operations of new Manchester based store.

This rental collection holds the capacity to allow Ræburn to become a pioneer and leading competitor in paving the way for rental streetwear with a solid foundation of circular economy considerations backing the sustainable ethos of the brand.

T H R E AT

OPPORTUNITY

E X T E R N A L FA C T O R S Rental fashion has to overcome consumer stigma of hiring a product- especially as it is for niche sports-luxe wear.

‘VF Corporation, owner of labels including The North Face, Timberland and Vans, is considering introducing a rental clothing scheme as part of a new focus on sustainability, EMEA president Martino Scabbia Guerrini told Drapers last year.’ (Pinnock, 2019:online)

Utilise this niche market to offer customers something new and really emphasise this new USP.

‘To utilise the strength of customer reviews and ensure items are as good as new to dispel any apprehensions and ensure repeat custom’ (GlobalData Retail, 2019:online).

45

APPENDIX 9

CONSUMER PROFILES Existing Market

46

BEHAVIOURAL: •

BENEFITS SOUGHT: Style which doesn’t cost the planet, functionality which doesn’t compromise style, quality which outweighs needing ‘newness’ and community in wearing a brand exclusive in style but accessible for those whom value sustainability over price.

•

PURCHASE OCCASION: self-buy, investment pieces

•

PURCHASE BEHAVIOUR: Buy less than the average UK shopper but value investment pieces over fast fashion temporaries. Brand loyal, innovation, fashion forward statement pieces. Function still important. Extensive decision making. Rare personal occasion.

•

USAGE: heavy usage of garment, longevity. Used over and over e.g. coats, bags, dog leads. Likely to own product for years. Lighter usage of brand services e.g Lab

•

PERCEPTIONS + BELIEFS: Strong friendship/family values. Believes in connectivity to nature and exercises regularly as a de-stressor, with tendencies to do extreme sport.

PSYCHOGRAPHIC: •

LIFESTYLE: trend setters, active, sporty styles, bespoke fashions, advocates for sustainability, environmentally responsible, animal welfare, labour/green party.

•

PERSONALITY: extrovert but humble, positive, activist, stands up for what believe in, fitness and health, career driven, friend and family orientated

PROFILE: •

DEMOGRAPHIC: Menswear / Womenswear (predominantly men’s) age 21-35 years- (mostly millennials).

•

SOCIO-ECONOMIC: Mainly middle-class background due to price accessibility of products. Likely to have a degree or some form of higher education recognition, which feeds into deeper understanding of environmental concerns.

GEOGRAPHIC: •

Urban Explorer’s, city-goers, love the hustle and bustle of city life. Choose to live in cities but loves to retreat to the great outdoors. Skiers, hikers and adventurers that live among the concrete jungles, but seek extreme escapism through hobbies, vacations and lifestyle decisions made about the self. Some accessibility to Ræburn Labs/workshops building on community spirit.

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APPENDIX 9

CONSUMER PROFILE 1 EXISTING CONSUMER

DANNY 27 Newly Married Environmental Consultant Income: £48,000 Lives in MCR NQ apartment Drives Electric Car Vegan Dog called Rocco he walks in the Peak District

48

APPENDIX 9

CONSUMER PROFILE 2 EXISTING CONSUMER

DILLY 34 Proffessor at UAL Fashion blogger Income £60,000 Lives in Shoreditch with her girlfriend Uses public transport Organic foods only Recycles everything

49

APPENDIX 10

CONSUMER PROFILES New Market

50

BEHAVIOURAL: •

BENEFITS SOUGHT: access to style which doesn’t cost the planet, functionality, really statement pieces that will make an impact for duration of usership.

•

PURCHASE OCCASION: customer loyalty and the social environmental benefits sought.

•

PURCHASE BEHAVIOUR: Limited decision making, regular personal occasion. Desire to have more frequently updated personal image with new styles than the existing Ræburn consumer but wants to minimise this purchase behaviours potential environmental implications.

•

USAGE: Heavy usage of garment rented, medium use of brands services due to returning rental items and seeking new potential rental pieces. Stronger rapport potentially built with the rental customer.

•

PERCEPTIONS + BELIEFS: wants to be part of a bigger community or group, sense in belonging.

PSYCHOGRAPHIC: •

LIFESTYLE: trend-setters, environmentally conscious, open to experiential retail, like to lead by the front of innovation.

•

PERSONALITY: creative, experimental, outgoing, fitness, career focused, avid social media user, self-image, identity, friendships, humorous.

PROFILE: •

DEMOGRAPHIC: Some Gen Z as this generation has ‘taken to the streets in school strikes across the world, following the lead of The Almighty Greta and many other young climate heroes’ (Kinnock, 2019:online) but most likely millennials as ‘research from Mintel’s Fashion and Sustainability report found that over half of millennials had either rented fashion or considered doing so’ (Horton, 2019:online).

•

SOCIO-ECONOMIC: has some steady flow of income due to being in either full or part time employment. Likely to be freelance work in a creative industry, hence the desire to want to experience a creative service which provide innovative fashion pieces.

GEOGRAPHIC: •

Based in and around Greater Manchester as may want to experience the clothes in the LAB before paying the rental fee to have the privileged access of using the garment for a period of time.

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APPENDIX 10

CONSUMER PROFILE 3 NEW CONSUMER LAO 19 Sociology Student Income: £14,000 Part-time work as chef in V-Rev Cycles everywhere Lives in Fallowfield in student house Wants access to statement pieces without permeant ownership due to tighter budget + limited wardrobe space.

52

APPENDIX 10

CONSUMER PROFILE 4 NEW CONSUMER NAOMI 25 Freelance photography Social Media Influencer Studio in MCR Salford Income: £25,500 Veggie Chowchow called POM Enjoys experiential retail

53

C O M P E T I TO R A N A LYS I S Patagonia: Existing Competitor

A P P E N D I X 11

TARGET MARKET Outdoor enthusiasts, environmentally conscious.

Older demographic due to higher entry price point.

More recently appealing to urban, younger demographic.

STRENGTHS A leader in sustainable fashion.

Brand is becoming positioned in younger consumers mind as trendy, attracting new audience. Community feel and strong rapport with customer base.

Brand transparency.

WEAKNESSES Designs are not as trend-driven or as visually competitive.

High cost production due to Fairtrade collaborative.

Environmental focus could hinder the brands creativity.

PROMOTION 4.3m Instagram followers as of date accessed (@patagonia, n,d.).

Good social engagement.

Limited promotions for events.

54

C O M P E T I TO R A N A LYS I S APPENDIX 12 North Face: Existing/New Competitor TARGET MARKET Unisex demographic aged approx. 14 -35 years.

‘Targets urban consumers as well as outdoor buffs’ (Guyot, 2017:online).

STRENGTHS Large variety of products appeals to larger audience.

Aspirational sporty street-style brand.

‘Considering introducing a rental clothing scheme as part of a new focus on sustainability’ (Pinnock, 2019:online).

WEAKNESSES Not as committed to sustainable practices as competitors due to resource intensive; volumes-sales driven business model.

Product styles are often replicated by other retailers on the high street.

PROMOTION 4.2m Instagram followers as of date accessed (@thenorthface, n,d.).

Good engagement with following.

Features in magazines.

Concessions in different stores. Strong marketing strategy.

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C O M P E T I TO R A N A LYS I S Ecoalf: Existing/New Competitor

APPENDIX 13

TARGET MARKET Trend savvy but environmentally conscious.

Women’s, menswear and kids. Mostly women aged 18-40 years.

STRENGTHS ‘First fashion brand in Spain to become B CorpTM’ certified (Ecoalf, n,d.:online).

Lots of choice.

10% of the ‘because collection’ sales will support the Ecocalf foundation and its ocean clear up mission (Ecoalf, n,d.)- committed to environmental causes.

Strong stylised brand image.

WEAKNESSES Higher price point.

The overall feminine brand-image may not be as inclusive for all genders.

Don’t own any stores in UK other than concessions in both Manchester Selfridges.

Not many customers can’t experience brands ethos in person.

PROMOTION Ad campaigns in varying magazines including Fashion Times & Phukete Magazine.

Social media a bit weak, with poor engagement.

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C O M P E T I TO R A N A LYS I S APPENDIX 14 P r i v a t e W h i t e V. C . : N e w C o m p e t i t o r TARGET MARKET Premium, menswear age 25-55.

Tailored. Men whom value classic style with lifestyle functionality.

Iconic coats meant to last a lifetime.

STRENGTHS Strong brand identity and Manchester heritage. ‘Own factory in Cheetham Hill, employing a range of skilled professionals who still stitch, cut, treat and design every piece that they produce’ (Mallard, 2018:online).

Offer life-time repair on garments.

High quality customer service.

WEAKNESSES Not very wide variety of products and only cater for men.

Not the most visually creative garments.

PROMOTION Strong Instagram for business size. 47.6k followers and very high engagement.

Relies heavily on social media and word-of-mouth promotion.

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APPENDIX 15

C R I T I C A L S U C C E S S FA C TO R S C S F Ta b l e : C o m p e t i t o r A n a l y s i s

58

RÆBURN CSF CSF1 Innovative Style CSF2 Quality CSF3 Sustainability CSF4 Price Inclusive CSF5 Customisation

Weighting 0.35 0.2 0.25 0.15 0.05

Score 1-10 (10 = high standard) 9 8 6 4 6

Adjusted Score* 31.5 16 15 6 3 71.5

*Adjusted score = score out of 10 x Weighting Factor (shown as a %)

Strengths / Weaknesses Analysis

CSF CSF1 CSF2 CSF3 CSF4 CSF5

RÆBURN Score Adjusted* 9 31.5 8 16 6 15 4 6 6 3 71.5

Patagonia Score Adjusted* 3 10.5 8 16 8 20 6 9 5 2.5 58

North Face Score Adjusted* 7 24.5 6 12 2 4 8 12 1 0.5 53

Score 9 8 6 4 1

Ecoalf Adjusted* 31.5 16 15 6 0.5 69

CSF CSF1 CSF2 CSF3 CSF4 CSF5

Rent Æ Statement Score Adjusted* 9 31.5 8 16 8 20 6 9 3 1.5 78

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PORTER’S 5 FORCES APPENDIX 16 Porter ’s 5 Forces Model: New Market THREAT OF NEW ENTRANTS •

•

The number of people who rent may be limited, as it is a fairly new concept which may seem

Brand loyalty will be homed in on with this rental service as it builds a two-way

unfamiliar for many. In terms of fashion rentals, ‘83.7% of UK consumers said they would be

communicative network between the brand and customer. Strengthening this rapport,

unlikely to rent clothing or accessories’ and a further ‘55.7% of consumers state that they prefer

exclusive access to Ræburn’s designs as well as incentivising commitment to the rental plan

to own their wardrobe contents’ (GlobalData Retail, 2019).

with a Manchester worker bee cut-of keepsake to build on that community feeling, should

•

help make potential new competitive entrants deemed a less attractive option to customers.

THREAT OF SUBSTITUTE PRODUCTS/SERVICES

Expected retaliation from other brands in the area could be a potential risk. As renting in itself

•

Buyers propensity to substitute should be fairly low as offering a niche service which gives

is seen as a sustainable alternative to shopping, if brands like Vivienne Westwood (which

a USP that is desirable to be a part of that customer base. Garments from the 4 most recent

advocates sustainable stances), whom have a boutique store in Spring Gardens, or Patagonia

collections will only be accessible for purchase, maintaining the existing customer base.

whom also have a store just 2 minutes’ walk from Spring Gardens see the proposed successes

•

of Rent Æ Statement at the MCR LAB, they may which to replicate the rental business model.

Perceived level of product differentiation will be managed as the rental range will feature a

collection of some of Ræburn’s most bespoke and iconic designs. The service itself in

Manchester offers rental garment’s that aren’t really available to rent at the moment.

BARGAINING POWER OF SUPPLIERS •

•

•

With brands like ‘North Face, Timberland and Vans... considering introducing a rental clothing

Ræburn is its own supplier for this rental collection as the products are already in-house within

scheme as part of a new focus on sustainability’ (Pinnock, 2019:online), the competitiveness

the brand.

of these volumes-sales driven brands to aggressively campaign such rental schemes must be

In terms of supplying the customer, the importance of stock volume is something to consider. If

monitored carefully. They may offer a potentially more geographically accessible alternative for

all products are rented out at the same time, will customers go elsewhere?

those whom have had limited exposure to the Ræburn brand.

BARGAINING POWER OF BUYERS

RIVALRY AMONG EXISTING COMPETITORS

•

•

Size of each buyer’s order is likely to be small. Estimated 1 or 2 items per customer order. This is due to the bespoke nature of the designs in the collection. A customer is more likely to want to get maximum use out of one or two really trendy and statement pieces, than minimal usage out of several less impactful pieces.

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Number of competitors is currently somewhat limited as rental sport-luxe street style is a new concept.

•

Existing competitors Ecoalf, Patagonia and The North Face all tap into sustainability, some more than others and cater for activewear.

A N S O F F M AT R I X

APPENDIX 17

According to the Ansoff Matrix (Businessto-you, 2017), this new market is classified as ‘Diversification’ because of being a new brand service [product], and a new service in a new market entry due to launching a new LAB in the Manchester market. According to Ansoff, diversification is associated with the largest proportion of risk, however the risks are somewhat limited due to using existing Ræburn products with the new Rent Æ Statement brand, which offers some familiarity when entering these new markets.

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BRAND POSITIONING MAPS

APPENDIX 18

Existing Brand Positioning Map ENVIRONMENTALLY COMPETITIVE

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LOW PRICE

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LOW ENVIRONMENTAL CONSIDERATION

New Brand Positioning Map ENVIRONMENTALLY COMPETITIVE

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APPENDIX 19

P R O D U C T A N ATO M Y Anatomy of the Product [Service]

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POTENTIAL SERVICE Set up a system where customers can vote on the website for items from new collections that they want to feature within rental collection. This gives the Ræburn customer more freedom in choice in what products become accessible to them with new seasons.

AUGMENTED SERVICE Garment in perfect condition (as if new) for each user to experience equal quality. Free delivery for any rental customer anywhere in the UK. Click + Collect from Manchester LAB store. Gift wrapping. Down-load Assets. Specific size guide available on site.

TANGIBLE SERVICE Rent Æ Statement, by Ræburn. The actual product(s) or garment(s) rented. RePack delivery packaging bag. Customer receipt for the rental payment and rental return postage slip. Subscription members only will receive a cut-off Manchester worker bee toy made from fabric cut offs, in keeping with Ræburn tradition of having a mascot (1 available per person on the first order only).

CORE SERVICE Rental Service.

65

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67

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