GUCCI
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Anna Richardson Gucci Appraisal Fashion in Context: DESN 1375 Student ID: 201228148 Word Count: 1686
Contents Introduction 2 Gucci A/W 2018 3 Skirt suit 4 Shirt 6 Shoulder bag 7 Gucci S/S 2018 Leopard print 8 Sunglasses 9 Gloves 10 Conclusion 11 References 12 Image References 13
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Introduction
In today’s climate it is imperative for brands and fashion houses to keep up with the ever changing fashion trends, “there is an expectation that fashions will change at regular points throughout the year. These periods of change are usually described as seasons “ (Jackson, T, Shaw, D. 2009). However, as we see fast fashion getting faster than ever, with clothes from the high-end catwalk dribbling down into high street stores within six weeks of release; the fashion industry has naturally had to recycle fashion and revisit old trends from past years. Added to this, with vintage and second hand- clothing rising in popularity this has influenced fashion designers to look to the past for inspiration. “In the intervening years, there have been major shifts in technology, politics, culture and social norms—and fashion has reflected that in its ever-changing cycle of trends. From the sky-high platforms of the '70s to the high-waisted bikinis of the '40s, we see plenty of the most popular looks of decades past serving as inspiration for designers today” (Parkin, 2017). This recycling of past fashion trends is exactly what Gucci have focused on for their S/S and A/W 2018 campaigns, taking inspiration from that of the 1960s to the renaissance period. Added to this, this use of past style may evoke emotions for consumers as they can relate to these past styles which may stem back to their childhood or teenage youth for example. This appraisal will evaluate and breakdown the inspiration for two outfits one from the A/W collection 2018 and the other from the S/S 2018 collection. Highlighting the use of past styles in each outfit and how it works to create something which contains old ideas but yet is fresh and new and fits into today’s fashion world.
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Gucci S/S 2018 The A/W 2018 collection was “very different with it largely stuck to the multifaceted aesthetic he’s created for Gucci, was based on the idea of superhuman transformation” (Como, 2018). However, the collection which consisted of 90 outfits had lots of inspiration from many cultures and backgrounds; including middleeastern, southern American and Japanese.
The Skirt Suit
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The skirt suit had been around since the seventeenth century, “however it was not until the nineteenth century that suits were adopted for wear other than during horse riding” (Worsley, 2011). These stylish two piece suits were worn in the twentieth century, “with it most famously being worn by Queen Alexandra who was a fashion icon of her generation” (Worsley, 2011). The skirt suit was seen as a modern trendy piece, which also became popular among feminists. It was also popular by WW1 as women found ‘the coat and skirt durable and practical’ (Worsley, 2011). Throughout the 1900’s the suit was prominent becoming a staple piece in many women’s wardrobes. The 1980’s was known as “the decade of the power suit- complete with shoulder pad, decorative buttons, and bright, feminine colours- was popular among corporate women. Soon the trend spread beyond the office, thanks to Tv shows like ‘Dynasty’, which launched a line of power suits” (Sullivan, 2016).
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“Trend spread beyond the office, thanks to Tv shows like ‘Dynasty’, which launched a line of power suits”
The suit became iconic and was worn by many especially as it was seen as an alternative to the pantsuit. Gucci have taken this timeless classic outfit and used it to their advantage as skirt suits never go out of style. They have fashioned a longer length which is similar to the skirts worn in the 1920s as ‘Hemlines drifted between ankle and mid-calf’ (V&A, 2016). Compared to the modern day skirt suit which is worn by many professional women and is usually a shorter length. The colour choice of a navy blue is simple, yet effective also similar colours would have been worn in the 1920s, compared to the skirt suit in the 80’s which would have included much brighter and bolder colours. Gucci have clearly taken inspiration from “Thierry Mugler and Claude Montana as they perfected the working women’s power suit in the 1980s” (Worsley, 2011).
The Shirt Fig 6
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The models bold print shirt traces back to the use of bright colours by the like of Paul Poiret in the nineteenth century “with his bold prints which were inspired by the ballet Russes’ in Paris 1909” (Worsley, 2011). Furthermore, the introduction of screen printing impacted the textile industry massively. From the 1950s prints such as the ones displayed on the Gucci shirt were very prevalent in society, with lots of people wearing bold bright patterns in shirts, dresses and even trousers. Going into the 1960s “the hippy movement from the west coast of America emerged, experimenting with colours, patterns and textures borrowed from non-Western cultures” (V&A, 2016). This influenced these bold flowery prints that can be seen on the Gucci shirt. In the 1960s Yves Saint Laurent released a collection inspired by floral and bold prints, which was highly successful. Christian Lacroix was also famous for his bold prints and embroidery, with his work going onto the influence many fashion trends since.
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The Shoulder Bag The shoulder bag shot to fame in the 1930s during World War II as efficiency and practicality became important. Once the war was over hand bags and shoulder bags became less of a necessity and more of a luxury with women buying them for the aesthetic and fashionable look. “In 1955 Chanel invented the quilter leather 2.55 shoulder bag, with other designers copying it” (Worsley, 2011). This design is still reinterpreted and copied today with many taking inspiration from the iconic design. The 1960s saw an influx of accessories including the shoulder bag. The bag (see fig. 4) is more of a bucket bag design which dates back “to 1932,when Gaston-Louis Vuitton, grandson of the founder, created the Noé as a utilitarian bag. Its function was to carry champagne without breaking the bottles. In the original design, still used today, the wide, reinforced rectangular base was designed to hold five bottles of champagne” (Whatgoesaroundcomesaround, 2018). This was the first purpose for the bucket bad design, Gucci have taken this idea and made it into a statement piece to have on your arm, taking inspiration from the past as well as other designers’ ideas like Louis Vuitton.
Gucci A/W 2018 The Gucci S/S 18 collection was very different to the A/W as it was much less futuristic and a simpler setting.
The leopard Print
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The main feature of this outfit is the leopard print splattered across the clothing. “The bold pattern can be traced back as far as ancient Egypt, when, because real pelts were rare, women stencilled leopard prints onto linen sheaths. African leaders wore animal skins to show their power, and Napoleon’s troops trimmed their helmets and saddle covers in leopard skin, cementing the prints bold, confident reputation” (Sosandar, no date). This tells us animal prints aren’t anything new, the use of animals prints especially leopard is most definitely a recycled fashion trend. However, the leopard print trend. Nineteen-thirties saw women “often wearing coats trimmed with leopard cuffs and collar with matching hat and muff. Whether real or faux, the style became a defining one for the era, which was recreated in the early 1970s by the retro-flavoured Biba in London” (Helms, 2018). This would suggest Gucci took inspiration from this era for this garment. The provocative reputation and nature of the print meant it was used “by Cinematic stars like Rita Hayworth and Marilyn Monroe were clad in leopard print to denote their bombshell natures” (Helms, 2018). Leopard print is one of rich history and background to it, with Gucci using past trends to create this outfit using the leopard coat and headscarf to compliment the outfit and reinforce this idea of past trends inspiring this look.
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Sunglasses Fig 10
Other details included in the outfit are the sunglasses, it’s been said “the roman emperor Nero used polished emeralds to shade his eyes from the sun” (Worsley, 2011). This implies sunglasses have been an idea for hundreds pf years, however, they have advanced since then. The revolution of sunglasses started in America “with Foster Grant Sunglasses in Atlantic city” (Worsley, 2011). Since 1929, different styles and models of sunglasses were constantly being made a developed with the aviator style see (fig. 6) one of the first styles to be produced . The sunglasses worn are very similar to the those worn by Joan Crawford, see (fig 8). Sunglasses became popular amongst the rich and famous with the likes of Elton John and John Lennon seen in them regularly. Gucci will have taken inspiration from the like of Stella McCartney as she “revived aviator style shades in 2000” (Worsley, 2011).
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Gloves
Another accessory to this outfit includes the gloves. Within Britain during the early 1900 s “the use of gloves was primarily confined to the elite social classes and signified the wearer's wealth and superior rank. These gloves were elegant, fashionable, and expensive objects of desire that often served little or no utilitarian or protective function� (Stankovski, no date). However, throughout history there has been changing conceptions about gloves and their purpose nowadays gloves are seen as items to keep us warm or protect us when for example doing the gardening. Clearly Gucci is using this idea of the 1900s and introduce them back into fashion a more of a fashion statement then a protective, practical need, reusing past trends from hundreds of years ago to influence their future fashion products.
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Conclusion
Fig 15 The rich mixture of previous styles within both collections really underlines the use of past ideas in today’s clothing trends. The setting of the A/W 2018 collection is almost ironic as it takes on a futuristic background, however a lot of their outfits have been influenced by past fashion trends and ideas. The bold leopard print will always stand out in time with it dating back thousands of years. Although usually seen as a provocative print it also shows strength and provides a statement to the audience. The suit skirt will always be seen as an iconic look which has changed and developed over time, with Gucci taking inspiration for the 1920s for their skirt suit. Overall, both collections have taken visions from the past and reinvented and recycled it to create todays modern trends.
References Como, lake 2018. Gucci [online] [accessed 29 April 2019] Available from: https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumn-winter-2018-ready-to-wear/gucci Helms, 2018. The dangerously seductive power of leopard print [online] [accessed 29 April 2019] Available from: https://www.heroine.com/theeditorial/history-of-leopard-print Parkin,2016. Most influential fashion trends decade by decade [online] [accessed 29 April 2019] Available from: https://www.whowhatwear.co.uk/fashion-by-the-decade Shaw, D. Jackson, T. 2009. Mastering fashion marketing. Hampshire. Palgrave Macmillan Sosandar, no date. Leopard print a fashion history [online] [accessed 29 April 2019] Available from: https://www.sosandar.com/stylenews/historyof-leopard-print/ Stankovski, no date. Gloves [online] [accessed 29 April 2019] Available from: https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/clothing-typesstyles/gloves Sullivan,2016. The fascinating history of women wearing suits [online] [accessed 29 April 2019] Available from: https://www.allure.com/story/women-suits-history V&A, 2016 . History of Fashion 1900-1970 [online] [accessed 29 April 2019] Available from: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/h/history-offashion-1900-1970/ Whatsgoearoundcomesaround, 2018. The original bucket bad has a unique history [online] [accessed 29 April 2019] Available from: https://www.whatgoesaroundnyc.com/editorial/post/the-original-bucketbag-has-a-unique-history/ Worsley, H, 2011. 100 Ideas That Changed Fashion. London. Laurence King publishing Ltd
Image References Figure 1: Gucci, 2019. S/S 19 [online] [accessed 15th April. 2019] Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/st/stories/article/spring-summer-2019-zumi-bagshoppable Figure 2: Gucci, 2019. S/S 19 [online] [accessed 15th April. 2019] Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/st/stories/article/spring-summer-2019-zumi-bagshoppable Figure 3: Gucci, 2019. S/S 19 [online] [accessed 15th April. 2019] Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/st/stories/article/spring-summer-2019-zumi-bagshoppable Figure 4: Vogue, 2018. Gucci A/W 2018 ready to wear | British Vogue [online] [accessed 15th April. 2019] Available from: https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumnwinter-2018-ready-to-wear/gucci/collection Figure 5: Pinterest, no date. Working: why the women who wear the clothes give fashions its power [online] [accessed 15th April. 2019] Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/56787645277395285/?lp=true Figure 6 Vogue, 2018. Gucci A/W 2018 ready to wear | British Vogue [online] [accessed 15th April. 2019] Available from: https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumnwinter-2018-ready-to-wear/gucci/collection Figure 7: Gucci, 2019. S/S 19 [online] [accessed 15th April. 2019] Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/st/stories/article/spring-summer-2019-zumi-bagshoppable Figure 8: Gucci, 2019. S/S 19 [online] [accessed 15th April. 2019] Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/st/stories/article/spring-summer-2019-zumi-bagshoppable Figure 9: Gucci, 2018. Gucci S/S 2018 Ready to wear collection [online] [accessed 15th April. 2019] Available from: https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2018ready-to-wear/gucci/collection Figure 10: Gucci, 2018. Gucci S/S 2018 Ready to wear collection [online] [accessed 15th April. 2019] Available from: https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2018ready-to-wear/gucci/collection
Figure 11: Stella McCartney, 2019. Net A Porter [online] [accessed 15th April. 2019] Ljadda; Available from: https://www.net-aporter.com/ae/en/product/1059772/stella_mccartney/aviator-style-gold-tone-sunglasses Figure 12: Pinterest, no date. Joan Crawford [online] [accessed 15th April. 2019] Available from: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/154459462194459619/?lp=true Figure 13: Factinate, no date. 33 little known facts about Elton John [online] [accessed 15th April. 2019] Available from: https://www.factinate.com/people/33-little-knownfacts-elton-john/ Figure 14: Gucci, 2019. S/S 19 [online] [accessed 15th April. 2019] Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/st/stories/article/spring-summer-2019-zumi-bagshoppable Figure 15: Gucci, 2019. S/S 19 [online] [accessed 15th April. 2019] Available from: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/st/stories/article/spring-summer-2019-zumi-bagshoppable