Around Montenegro by Annemari Sepp

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Kotor Perast Nikšić Žabljak Morača Monastery Plav area Podgorica Lake Skadar Sveti Stefan Budva Cetinje

Kotor

is living history in a spectacular bay The city has a population of 13,510 and is the administrative center of Kotor Municipality. Kotor has one of the best preserved medieval old towns in the Adriatic and is a UNESCO world heritage site. St Tryphon’s Cathedral Up in the reliquary chapel are some lovely icons, a spooky wooden crucifix (1288) and, behind the grill, assorted body parts of saints including St Tryphon. The early martyr’s importance to both the Catholic and Orthodox churches makes him a fitting patron for the city. Sea Gate The main entrance to the town was constructed in 1555 when it was under Venetian rule (1420–1797). Look out for the winged lion of St Mark, Venice’s symbol. Above the gate, the date of the city’s liberation from the Nazis is remembered with a communist star and a quote from Tito. Cats Museum Crazy cat people and those with a fondness for whimsical vintage art will adore this charming museum, home to thousands of moggie-themed ye olde postcards, lithographs, prints, jewellery and beautiful antique advertisements. The small admission fee goes towards taking care of Kotor’s famous felines. Gurdić Gate Fewer tourists make it to the south end of town, where the houses narrow into a slim corridor leading to this bastion and gate (parts of which date from the 13th century) and the drawbridge over the Gurdić spring.

Perast

is picturesque island views Perast lies beneath the hill of St. Ilija (873 m), on a cape that separates the Bay of Risano from that of Kotor, and overlooks the Verige strait, the narrowest part of the Bay of Kotor. The average yearly temperature in Perast is 18.3°C, and the number of sunny days is 240 (or around 2,500 sunny hours per year). Near Perast there are two islets: one is called Sveti Juraj or Sveti Đorđi (St. George) and the other Gospa od Škrpjela (Our Lady of the Rocks), and each has a picturesque chapel. Gospa od Škrpjela is particularly interesting given that it is the only artificially-built island in the Adriatic, with an area of 3,030 m² — it was built upon a rock (Škrpjel) after two Venetian sailors from Perast found a picture of the Virgin Mary on it in 1452. Gospa od Škrpjela (Our Lady of the Rocks) It is an artificial island created by bulwark of rocks and by sinking old and seized ships loaded with rocks. The Roman Catholic Church of Our Lady of the Rocks is the largest building on the islet; it has a museum attached. According to legend, the islet was made over the centuries by Croat local seamen who kept an ancient oath after finding the icon of Madonna and Child on the rock in the sea on July 22, 1452. Upon returning from each successful voyage, they laid a rock in the Bay. Over time, the islet gradually emerged from the sea. The custom of throwing rocks into the sea is alive even nowadays.

Nikšić

is lively students hub A blow-out in a lively student town, Nikšić (Никшић; pronounced ‘nikshich’) has an array of establishments that offer a more genuine (not to mention cheaper) Montenegrin experience than the tourist-populated bars of Budva. What else would you expect in the town that produces Nikšićko Pivo, the nation’s favourite beer? Nikšić is also in the grip of a cultural revival; it’s one of the best places in Montenegro to check out alternative, avant-garde art. Most na Moštanici The five graceful arches of Most na Moštanici, a 3rd Century Roman bridge, once spanned a flowing river that is today a dry ditch. Travelling west on the road to Trebinje in Hercegovina, a large sign on the left (3.5km after the small roundabout on the edge of town) points to the bridge; there are no other signs once you leave the main road. Coming off the road, turn sharp left and then right. Veer left after about 300m and head alongside the village. After a kilometre you’ll see the bridge near a sturdy little church. Bedem Fortress The original Nikšić was built within sturdy walls on a rocky hill to the west of the current town. This was the site of a 4th-century Roman military base that was taken over by the Goths and fortified. Today, the partially restored fortress hosts an annual music festival. Freedom Square The heart of Nikšić is this large open area at the centre of Ulica Njegoševa, the main street. On summer nights what seems like the entire population – from toddlers to the elderly – parade up and down the square. On one side is a hefty bronze equestrian statue of King Nikola, while the other side has a fountain set around a modern sculpture.

Žabljak

is the highest situated town on the Balkans Žabljak is centre of Montenegro’s mountain tourism. Among the main tourist attractions of Durmitor are 18 glacier lakes; the biggest and closest to Žabljak being Crno jezero, literally “Black Lake”. Black Lake (Montenegrin: Crno jezero) It is a glacial lake, located on Mount Durmitor, at an elevation of 1,416 m. It is 3 km from the town of Žabljak. Black Lake is filled by numerous mountain streams, the best known being Mlin Creek. Other streams have no name because they appear periodically, when snow from Mount Durmitor is melting. A 3.5 km walking path circles around entire lake. Many mountain trails lead from it to other smaller lakes around Žabljak. The Katun restaurant is located on the shore of the lake and serves traditional Montenegrin dishes. Tara River Canyon It is 82 kilometers (51 miles) long and the last 36 kilometers constitute the border between Bosnia and Herzegovina,Serbia and Montenegro. The canyon at its deepest is around 1,300 meters (4,300 feet) deep. These parameters make the Tara River Canyon one of the deepest river canyons in Europe, and indeed the world. The canyon stretch within Montenegro is protected as a part of Durmitor National Park and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Tara River cuts through the canyon. The Tara River, at its end making confluence with the Piva, becomes the Drina, and is some hundred and fifty kilometers long[clarification needed]. In its passage through the Tara National Park, the river has a mean fall of 3.6 meters/kilometer, making a host of waterfalls and cascades possible, thus creating what is known as the Montenegrin Colorado.

Morača Monastery is the religious centre of the north

Morača (founded in 1252) is one of the most important Orthodox monasteries in Montenegro, with some of its most accomplished religious art. Its two churches are plastered in frescoes; the Church of the Dormition (Crkva Uspenja Bogorodice) has external frescoes by the celebrated master Djordje Mitrofanović, plus beautiful doors inlaid with geometric patterns. Inside are icons by Mitrofanović as well as other masters. St Nicholas’ Church To the right, the small St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva Sv Nikole) has faded frescoes on its facade which were once as vivid as those inside. You can still make out the Madonna and Child above the door and an archangel on either side. Church of the Dormition In the vestibule of the Church of the Dormition there’s a fascinating vision of Christ sitting in judgement, attended by saints. A slide of flames shoots the damned into hell where two-headed people-eating sea monsters do their worst. Look for the angels spearing little demons in the face to prevent them from tipping the scales of justice. The church’s treasures include Mitrofanović’s The Virgin Enthroned with Child, Prophets and Hymnographers (1617), which sits within the iconostasis, to the left of the sanctuary door. The other master at work here was Kozma, whose icon of Saints Sava and Simeon (1645), on the right-hand wall, includes a border showing the construction of the monastery (the latter saint was the founder’s grandfather). Also look to the left of the iconostasis for the icon of St Luke (by an unknown painter) depicting the apostle painting an icon of the Madonna and Child; this is probably a reference to the famous Our Lady of Philermos icon which now hangs in Cetinje.

Plav area

is the hidden muslim gem As the gateway to Prokletije national park, the small towns of Plav and Gusinje are distinguished by a bucolic setting and echoes of the Ottoman era. The former lies on the shores of the water-lily-strewn Lake Plav, while the latter is right by the karst springs of Ali Pasha in the foothills of the Accursed Mountains. Both towns are dotted with interesting mosques dating from various centuries. Plav city Look out for the intricate arabesque of the Emperor’s Mosque and the cascading domes of the Sultan’s Mosque. A unique example of Ottoman architecture in the region – as well as evidence of turbulent history – is the kula, a live-in defensive tower that protected families in times of siege. Particularly evocative of those bygone days is Plav’s 17th-century Redžepagića Kula, with two bottom floors of metre-thick stone walls, and a third, wooden floor with jutting balconies and rich woodcarvings. Plav’s Days of Blueberries Blueberries blanket the landscape of the Prokletije region – said to be the largest natural plantation of blueberries in the world – and Plav’s Days of Blueberries in late July are a veritable forest-fruit feast of the sweet stuff, wine and much more.

Podgorica

is relaxed and unpretentious The city sits at the confluence of two rivers. West of the Morača is the business district, while the Ribnica divides the eastern side in two. The south side is Stara Varoš, the old Ottoman town, while north is Nova Varoš, home to a lively mixture of shops and bars. Its heart is Trg Republika, the main square. Stara Varoš Podgorica’s oldest neighbourhood retains traces of the 400 years in which it was the centre of a bustling Ottoman Turkish town. The blocky clock tower overlooking the square was useful for signalling Muslim prayer times. Cathedral of Christ’s Resurrection The large dome, white stone towers and gold crosses of this immense new Serbian Orthodox cathedral are a striking addition to Podgorica’s skyline. When the building was consecrated in 2014, it attracted much controversy for its lavish frescoes, one of which depicts Tito, Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels burning in hell together. Šipčanik Wine Cellar Ten minutes out of Podgorica and 30m underground, the enormous cellar – owned by Montenegro’s largest wine company, Plantaže – occupies what was once a secret underground aircraft hangar operated by the Yugoslav People’s Army. Partially destroyed by NATO bombing in 1999 and abandoned immediately afterwards, the revamped hangar now houses 2 million litres of wine. Niagra Falls The falls are at their dramatic best after the spring thaws, but you’ll find plenty of locals taking a dip in their somewhat depleted – but supremely swimmable – depths come Podgorica’s sizzling summer.

Lake Skadar

was created by the tears of a pixie Skadar Lake is the largest lake at the Balkan Peninsula, with fresh water and one of the largest national parks in Montenegro. It’s extremely famous for its diversity of flora and fauna. Lake itself is unusual for mutual vicinity of different living areas and their chain of feeding. Godinje This charismatic little village four kilometres to Virpazar’s southeast is a serene spot to stop and sample some local wines. Have a wander around the cluster of stone houses; someone will undoubtedly call you over for a tasting, or just knock wherever you see a sign saying vino. Grmozur The exact date of build of the prison king Nicola builds is not known. It is, however, known that is was build by both Turks and Montenegrins. Many ask who the actual prisoners where on this island. Many simply said that prisoners where selected based on whether they could swim or not. The guards also did not know how to swim so that nobody could get out of prison or of the island. Beška Fourteenth-century St George’s Church is still undergoing slow reconstruction work, but the smaller Church of the Annunciation is in active use. It was built in 1440 and contains traces of once extensive frescoes. An orchard of fruit trees has been lovingly rejuvenated by the sisters; don’t be surprised if they offer you some of their homegrown pomegranate juice.

Sveti Stefan

is iconic island off your limits Of all the stupefying sights along the Adriatic shoreline, Sveti Stefan (Свети Стефан) is the coast’s money shot. A fortified island village connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway, its photogenic jumble of 15th-century stone villas overlook an impeccable pink-sand beach and tempting turquoise waters. The island was nationalised in the 1950s and is now part of – and owned by – the luxurious Aman resort, meaning it’s off-limits to all but paying guests. But ogling comes for free; Sveti Stefan has unsurprisingly been named as Montenegro’s most photographed site. Crvena Glavica A 2km hike south of Sveti Stefan will bring you to this collection of seven small and gorgeous beaches with rocky red sand (crvena glavica means ‘red head’). It’s a steep and bumpy path, but if you’re intent on seeking out some peace and quiet (or are a dedicated nudist; you can get your gear off with impunity here), it’s worth the journey.

Budva

is buzzy beaches and romantic laneways Though Budva has been settled since the 5th century BC, you’ll be hard-pressed finding much – outside of the Old Town – that isn’t shiny and relatively new. Development has run rampant here, and not all of it appears to be particularly well thought out. Trg Između Crkava Literally the ‘square between the churches’, this open area below the citadel provides a visual reminder of the once-cosy relationship between Orthodox and Catholic Christians in this area. Stari Grad Budva’s best feature and star attraction is the Stari Grad (Old Town) – a mini-Dubrovnik with marbled streets and Venetian walls rising from the clear waters below. Much of it was ruined by two earthquakes in 1979 but it has since been completely rebuilt. Sveti Nikola Known locally as ‘Hawaii’, Sveti Nikola is Montenegro’s largest island, stretching to nearly 2km. Fallow deer wander about on this uninhabited green spot, which is only a nautical mile away from Budva or Bečići Beach. You’ll have more chance escaping the tourist hordes, discarded rubbish and blaring pop music if you hire a kayak and look for a secluded cove on the far side of the island.

Cetinje

is a treasure trove of history and culture The city was founded in 1482 by Ivan Crnojević, the ruler of the Zeta state, after abandoning his previous capital near Lake Skadar, Žabljak Crnojevića, to the Ottomans. A large statue of him stands in the main square, Dvorski Trg. Cetinje was the capital of Montenegro until 1946, when it passed the baton – somewhat reluctantly – to Titograd (now Podgorica); today, it’s billed as the ‘royal capital’, and is home to the country’s most impressive collection of museums. Ulica Njegoševa Cetinje’s main street is pretty Njegoševa, a partly pedestrianised thoroughfare lined with interesting buildings, cafes and shops. At the southern end are two shady parks and the elegant Blue Palace. Biljarda This castle-like palace was the residence of Montenegro’s favourite son, prince-bishop and poet Petar II Petrović Njegoš. It was built and financed by the Russians in 1838 and housed the nation’s first billiard table. Relief Map of Montenegro This fascinating large-scale Relief Map of Montenegro was created by the Austrians in 1917. From the Biljarda, turn right and follow the walls to the glass pavilion. Ethnographic Museum Houses a well-presented collection of costumes and tools explained by English notations. Lipa Cave Millions of years old, Lipa Cave is one of the country’s largest caves – and the only one open for organised visits – with 2.5km of passages and halls filled with stalactites, stalagmites and freaky natural pillars.

Fun Facts 1. Montenegro is one of the newest countries in the world having declared its independence from Serbia on 3rd June 2006. Other than Serbia, only Kosovo (2008) and South Sudan (2011) are newer. 2. Montenegro translates from Venetian Italian as ‘Black Mountain’. The name refers to Mount Lovćen which rises 1,749m (5,738ft) above sea level in southwestern Montenegro. 3. The Montenegrin coast boasts 117 beaches totalling a length of 52km (32mi). 4. Montenegro is a tiny country (slightly smaller than Connecticut, USA) and has a population of only 643,000. 5. Montenegro is featured in the James Bond movie Casino Royale. Sadly, the scenes set in Montenegro were actually filmed in nearby Czech Republic. The country did play host, however, to a young Brad Pitt who filmed The Dark Side of the Sun there in 1987. 6. In terms of volume, Tara Canyon in Montenegro is Europe’s biggest canyon. It is 82km (51mi) in length, 1,300m (4,300ft) deep and 914m (3,000ft) at its widest point. 7. Montenegro’s top level domain is .me. After securing it in 2007, the government opened it up to world, marketing it as a generic top-level domain used to denote “Me”. It went live in 2008 and became the fastest-selling debut top level domain ever. 8. Montenegro uses the euro as its de-facto currency. However, it has never had an official agreement with the EU and thus cannot mint, issue or print euro coins or notes itself. 9. The village of Crkvice on Mount Orjen in Montenegro is the wettest place in Europe with the highest total annual precipitation of 5,000mm. 10. The village of Mitrovica in Montenegro is home to one of the oldest olive trees in the world. Stara Maslina is said to be over 2,000 years old! 11. One of the most heartening interesting facts about Montenegro is that it’s one of the few countries in the world to include environmental protection in its constitution. It defines itself as a “civil, democratic, ecological” state.

12. The mountains of Montenegro include some of the most rugged terrain in Europe, averaging more than 2,000m (7,000ft) in elevation. Bobotov Peak in the Durmitor Mountains is the country’s highest peak at 2,522m (8,274ft). 13. Montenegro was the first country in the world to have a national printing press. 14. Montenegrins are some of the tallest people in the world with an average male height of 1.832m (6ft). They rank second to the Dutch by only a fraction. 15. In some parts of the country, families still live by a centuries-old law called Krvna which recognises the right to vengeance; if a man from one family kills another, the family of the victim must respond in kind. This perhaps is one of less charming interesting facts about Montenegro… 16. Sveti Stefan is one of the most iconic sites in Montenegro. The fortified island village is connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway. Sadly, the site is owned by a luxury resort making it off limits to all but paying guests. 17. Montenegro is a diverse country in terms of ethnicity, language and religion with a mixture of Montenegrins, Serbs, Bosnians and Albanians practising Christianity, Islam and Catholicism. 18. Capital city Podgorica was all but destroyed by Allied bombing during the Second World War. It’s said that more massive damage was caused only to Pearl Harbor, Stalingrad and Dresden. 19. Montenegro’s Biogradska Gora National Park is home to 1,600 hectares (16 sq km) of virgin woodland – one of Europe’s last three remaining primeval forests.