Sunspel Marketing Strategy and Communication Plan NTU FMB

A N N I E TAY L O R / C H I N A E X PA N S I O N / N 0 7 2 8 9 2 5

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Annie Taylor N0728925 3998 words Marketing Strategy and Communication FMBR20001 Nottingham Trent University I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of approval in the conducts of this project.

Signed .....................................................

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Date ............................................

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C O N T E N T S 11 | Where are we now?

07 | Rationale 12 | Brand Audit 08 | Methodology 22 | Brand Positioning 25 26 32 52 56

| Competitors | Market Health | Macro Environment | Customer Analysis | Swot

56 | Where do we want to go?

58 | Objectives 60 | Who shall we target?

62 | Marketing Strategy

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| How do we want to get there?

69 | Communication Plan 76 | Measure and Review

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78 | Appendicies 98 | References 104 | Bibliography

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R A T I O N A L E

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The purpose of this report is to respond to the live task briefed by the British luxury essentials brand Sunspel; to develop a three-year strategic marketing and communication plan for an expansion into China.This report will explore the challenges and opportunities that Sunspel faces within both the UK and China, provide a macro analysis of the global environment and highlight key considerations for the Chinese consumer. Supported by thorough primary and secondary research, the report will examine key insights and propose recommendations on how the client can tailor their marketing activities to Chinese consumers in eastern markets, pre-dominantly via e-commerce, and simultaneously, western markets, to optimise their global potential.

Furthermore, it will aim to address Sunspel’s biggest barrier to development in China – brand awareness.

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METHODOLOGY PRIMARY RESEARCH QUANTITATIVE Online survey Sample: 100 UK respondents aged 18-65+ Distributed via social media platforms Facebook and LinkedIn to target a large demographic Offline survey Sample: 50 Chinese respondents aged 18-34

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These surveys were conducted to Measure Sunspel’s brand awareness in the UK Acquire insight on how British consumers define luxury and their motivations for purchase Acquire insight on Chinese consumer buying behaviour in both the UK and China Learn what Chinese e-commerce platforms are used to shop for luxury products and how Chinese consumers discover new brands

LIMITATIONS Bigger female sample on both surveys / All Chinese respondents were university students

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QUALITATIVE Focus group Sample: 4 participants

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The focus group was conducted to Gain a deeper understanding of Chinese consumer landscape and buying behaviours, including their customer journey to purchase Learn how Chinese consumers use each social media platform and the advantages and disadvantages of purchasing luxury on each

LIMITATIONS More female participants than male / 1 participant from Hong Kong

METHODOLOGY SECONDARY RESEARCH Market Research Databases

Reports

Analytics

Websites

News Broadcasts

Books

Journal Articles

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Mintel, Passport and WGSN used to acquire research on markets and trends Sunspel Annual Reports used to access accurate company information Analytics such as Similar Web used to gain insight on traffic, referrals and audiences for Sunspel’s website Business of Fashion The Telegraph, The BBC, The Guardian, Marketing Week

W H E R E

A R E

W E

N O W

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MISSION: “To create beautiful clothes from exceptional fabrics that last the test of time” (Rider, A. 2018)

ESSENCE: Heritage, Unique Fabrics, Icon Products

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[ STORES: ]

55 1 1 IN

IN

IN

IN

UK

JAPAN

AMERICA

GERMANY

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BRAND OVERVIEW Sunspel is an authentic British garment manufacturer and retailer that crafts innovative and luxury fabrics; “marrying quintessential design with ease and function” (Anon, 2018). It was founded in 1860 and is one of England’s oldest labels in luxury underwear and casual basics, playing a vital role in the birth of the universal staple – the t-shirt. The business, alongside its 150-year heritage, now operates internationally across three different markets. These include menswear, womenswear and kidswear; and of which continue to consist of core product categories such as t-shirts, polo shirts and underwear, in combination with contemporary seasonal luxury essentials.

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M I L E S T O N E S

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1860

1985

1937

2006

1947

2013

Sunspel’s boxer shorts appear in famous Levi’s advert

Sunspel was founded by Thomas A Hill

Sunspel develops iconic riviera polo short for James Bond Casino Royale film

Sunspel moves to factory in Long Eaton

Sunspel introduces the boxer short to Britain

Between 2010-2013, Sunspel opens 5 new stores in London

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FIG 9

FIG 7 FIG 8

INNOCENCE characterisitcs - trust, honesty, openness to experience

SAGE characterisitcs - wisdom, intelligence, clarity of thought, rational decision making

FIG 10

CAREGIVER characterisitcs - loyalty, steadiness, compassion, empathy

SOVEREIGN characterisitcs - order, stability, control, tradition

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FIG 11

B R A N D A R C H E T Y P E S

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B R A N D H E A L T H

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FIG 12

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£10.5m £9.6m

CURRENT PERFORMANCE: Sunspel grew turnover +9.9% from £9.6m to £10.5m by financial year (FY) end 2018, highlighting strong performance from the business. There was consistent growth across all channels as: • Online revenue was up +20% on the previous year, (accounting for 40% of the business) • EBITDA (before exceptionals) had a +4.9% increase, reaching £540k • Stock turnover increased in the year by 9.8%.

17’

18’

REVENUE

£10.5m (2017: £9.6m)

(Sunspel Annual Report, 2018)

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£11.5m £7.4m

15’

£13.8m

£9.2m

16’

17’

18’

In 2017, Sunspel’s equity grew +7% to £3.5m (2016: £3.2m), and the business as an entirety estimated at £11.5 million, with a recorded 20% year on year growth for three years prior (Shannon, S. 2017).

The large investment in distribution costs (£876, 857), meant that business profit decreased -28.5% to £170, 521 (2017: £238, 693). However, this is still a gain, and a good indicator that there is demand for Sunspel. Based on these premises, Sunspel’s business value of tangible and intangible assets is worth an estimated £13.8m as of FY end 2018.

Sunspel currently generates an estimated £400,000 worth of sales a year in China, approximately 4% of the business; it is generated from Sunspel’s stocklists and Taobao’s unofficial market, which is largely a consumer to consumer platform. Thus, primary research suggests that Chinese consumers do not tend purchase luxury products from Taobao as there are arguably a lot of counterfeit products.

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FIG 13

PREMIUM

FASHION FORWARD

HERITAGE

MASS MARKET

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B R A N D P O S I T I O N I N G

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This perceptual map aims to portray that perceptions of what constitutes as ‘luxury’ for brands is constantly fluctuating, thus, each variable will rank differently for each consumer, as to what extent they consider a brand or service luxurious. Features that are perceived as luxury are heritage, high-quality, premium-price and functional/emotional authentic benefits (Dubois et al., 2001; Tynan, McKenchie and Chuno, 2010; Keller 2017). However, as luxury has evolved, the definition of ‘luxury’ has segmented into premium luxury and affordable luxury – Sunspel can be considered a key player in the functional affordable luxury market, based on their core competencies of high-quality and heritage.

Nonetheless, 58% Chinese respondents said well-known brand identity constitutes as luxury (see appendix3) – something which Sunspel needs to tackle given their low brand awareness. Key competitors in this market are John Smedley and Pringle of Scotland.

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FIG 15

JJohn Smedley was founded 230 years ago upon the principle of quality and craftsmanship; using carefully chosen luxury fibres such as Sea Island cotton, Merino wool and cashmere to make fine knitwear. The brand was recognised for their innovation in January 2013, whereby they were awarded the “Royal Warrant of Appointment from Her Majesty the Queen as ‘Manufacturer of Fine Knitwear’” (Johnsmedley. com, 2019). They have received 3% traffic volume from social media and 5% from email marketing in the last 6 months (Similarweb.com, 2019), and do not have official accounts on Weibo nor WeChat.

Pringle is considered a pioneer of both British knitted outerwear – of which they coined the term ‘knitwear,’ and heritage. It is one of the oldest luxury labels in the world and builds itself upon its 200-year history. It is notorious and loved by everyone around the world for their use of cashmere, including Her Majesty the Queen, whom granted Pringle their Royal Warrant in 1956 (Pringlescotland.com, 2019). It is sold at a slightly higher price point Pringle and does not have accounts on Weibo or WeChat, offering an advantage for Sunspel.

FIG 16

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MARKET HEALTH The State of Fashion (2019), suggests that the global fashion industry and economy is vastly being disrupted, as “Greater China will for the first time in centuries overtake the US as the world’s largest fashion market next year.” Thus, shifting economic growth away from mature markets in the west, to markets in the east. The top 3 words to describe the global fashion industry in 2018 were:

FIG 17

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F A S T D I G I T A L C H A N G I N G

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FIG 18

A P P A R E L

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UK Consumer spending on clothes and accessories is forecasted to rise 5.3% to £60.8 billion in 2018, with “demand for fashion remaining robust despite economic uncertainty in the UK” (Mintel, 2018).

However, overall growth for these discretionary categories is expected to slow down, with clothing only predicted to grow 10.2% to reach £47.6 billion by 2023. Mintel (2018) suggests that the frequency of people purchasing clothes every 2-3 months has declined, whilst there is an uplift of consumers purchasing only once a year as consumers are increasingly adopting more cautious spending habits and thus update their wardrobes less frequently.

However, the online-only retailers dominated, as they are agile and have the ability respond to what their customers want fast and effectively.

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CHINA In 2017, menswear grew 4% to reach CNY535 billion, with underwear recording the strongest and fastest value growth at 7%. Key drivers include “rising personal incomes and growing consumer sophistication” (Euromonitor, 2018). However, the outlook for the growth of menswear is expected to slow down; with a forecast of only 1% growth by 2022.

Nonetheless, trendy menswear pieces are likely to grow, as more male customers would like to enhance their personal appearance; now in “pursuit of trendy apparel,” giving rise to “the faster growth of high quality leisurewear with trendy designs” that are “suitable for multiple occasions” (Euromonitor, 2018).

Similarly, womenswear retail value sales grew to CNY923 billion, a 6% rise on 2016.

Prevail of personalised style, “especially among young consumers” whom are giving “rise to a growing number of niche brand and designer labels” drove growth (Euromonitor, 2018).

Furthermore, underwear also recorded the fastest value growth in 2017. Key drivers included –

• “The offer of more elegant designs and better quality products • Rising demand for comfortable and more sophisticated products • More fashionable designs, among local women • Growing consumer sophistication – purchasing underwear more frequently • Growing population of working women, benefitting high-end products” (Euromonitor, 2018) The outlook for womenswear is projected to slow down due to saturation. However, women’s underwear, is expected to maintain growth.

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FIG 19

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M A C R O E N V I R O N M E N T

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PESTLE: UK

POLITICAL

“The ongoing Brexit negations means that the future of the UK economy remains uncertain as the UK’s relationship to the EU is untangled and new trade arrangements need to be settled with the EU and with the rest of the world.” (Mintel, 2018) The uncertainty of Brexit poses many risks and threats to Sunspel. Fluctuating exchange rates means that Sunspel could end up with a potential loss, as a decrease in the value of the pound could mean that importing materials will be costlier.

Furthermore, delays on tarrifs and exports also constitute as factors that will potentially affect the company in the near future (Sunspel Annual Report, 2018) as the business will be left in ambiguity. A devalue in the pound will cause the UK luxury fashion market to become a ‘go-to’ destination for foreigners (Deloitte 2016)

CHINA The trade war between China and the US, two of the largest economies in the world, has imposed levels of economic turmoil on China. At present, Chinese goods have suffered a third round of tariffs from the US, equating to more than $250bn (£191.9bn) (BBC, 2018) and is set to rise to 25 percent from 10 percent by January 2019 (BoF, 2018).

JD.com, one of China’s established e-commerce firms, has become subject to the pressures of the trade war, losing more than 44 percent of its market share this year (BoF, 2018). Therefore, as Sunspel’s route to market is via e-commerce, it is important that the brand evaluates each platform they could choose when entering China as JD.com’s rival, Alibaba group, only shed 11 percent share in comparison (BoF, 2018). Nonetheless, whilst tariffs arguably pose a threat to consumer spending power (as China, along with the US, are the biggest consumers of European luxury goods) demand for luxury is healthy and it is questionable as to whether taxation will affect those shoppers who are far less price-sensitive (Shaw, 2018).

Furthermore, as the China and US relationship slowly deteriorates, this could put Chinese consumers in favour of European/British brands.

UK

ECONOMIC

Economic uncertainty surrounding Brexit will cause gross income and consumer expenditure in the UK to remain subdued (Euromonitor, 2018) Whilst economic uncertainty continues surrounding consumer expenditure, causing real spending growth slowing to less than 1% in 2017, to GBP44,770 per household, this could surprisingly, benefit Sunspel. Based on previous recession spending habits, consumers will shop one of two ways. For example, whilst they may be more inclined to shop low-price items from value retailers such as Primark, they could also choose to purchase “more expensive, better quality products� (Mintel, 2018) that offer longevity. Moreover, evidence from primary research supports this premise as 92% of UK respondents said they prefer to purchase something timeless – a basic staple item that will always be in fashion; as opposed to something on trend that will only last a season (See appendix2).

CHINA “Between 2016 and 2017, consumer spending increased by 5.6% (in real terms), reaching CNY67,334 per household in 2017.� (Euromonitor, 2018) As disposable incomes and consumer spending increases in China, it is expected that people will be more willing to spend a premium price on their basic clothing purchases. However, consumer spending is being spent less on discretionary items but more so on travel and entertainment (Euromonitor, 2018), and as luxury spending is considered an important component of travel for Chinese consumers, then it is important that Sunspel considers a store in the future. For example, having a store in Hong Kong might be beneficial so that consumers from mainland China get to have the luxury shopping and travelling experience all in one; or, they need to gain a bigger presence in the UK so that when consumers come to Britain, they are made aware of the brand more.

UK

SOCIAL

The UK population is ageing as a result of longer life expectancy and lower birth rates (Euromonitor, 2018)

Many Late-Lifers (65+) are enjoying spending their pensions, which averaged at ÂŁ32,481 in 2017 and thus there is demand from this age category for various discretionary products.These include leisure and travel services, anti-aging products and luxury items (Euromonitor, 2018). As Sunspel can be considered affordable luxury, then growth of sales could potentially come from these consumers.

CHINA Child birth rates increased by 1.31 million, to reach a total of 17.86 million after the abolition of the one-child policy in 2016.

However, as this figure fell below government expectations, it is forecasted that the relaxation of the policy will not aid the reversal of an ageing population (Mintel, 2017).

Schiffman (2015) acknowledged that it is important for western marketers to consider the ‘guo qing’, translating ‘the special situation or character of China,’ to succeed in the Chinese market. Therefore, given that the two-child policy has had little effect and, in fact, many mothers are still the parent to only one child, Sunspel can appreciate that “Chinese families are open to particularly high-quality baby products for their single child” (Schiffman, 2015). There could, therefore, be potential for a lucrative pool of consumer spending within this market; thus, the brand could consider taking forward their childrenswear product offerings in China, which they introduced to the UK in November 2018.

UK

TECHNOLOGICAL

British consumers are one of the world’s keenest internet shoppers due to the proliferation of smart phones, seamless and efficient shopping apps, high internet usage, convenient payment options and social media communities (Euromonitor, 2018; Bendoni, W. 2016).

As the amount of internet and smartphone users increases, it is becoming integral for brands to capture the online market.

E-tailers have had a continuous growing presence amongst consumer spending on clothing, and therefore they are the ones who have benefitted from the overall retail market decline, as the increase in e-tailers means a decrease in retailers (Maat and Konings, 2018). Sunspel need to be conscious of this digitallydriven cultural market shift, as they are essentially faltering; the business does not have an app and their social media traffic does not substitute for this, as it has a volume of only 5%.Therefore, if Sunspel want to be considered contemporary, this is something that they should invest in within the UK.

CHINA The emergence of new technologies such as Blockchain and Internet of Things (IoT) have the potential to “revolutionise supply chain management” (Euromonitor, 2018).

After entering China via e-commerce, Sunspel need to consider a location for a warehouse to stock their core ranges.Therefore, utilising IoT would be a cost-effective logistics strategy for the brand, given that IoT can manage stock levels in warehouses and distribution centers by using an automatic inventory flow and control mechanism (Chatterjee, R. 2016). This should help reduce out-of-stock situations whilst also improving waste reduction. Furthermore, IoT enables consumers to track their commodity as it crosses multiple business partners from manufacturer, supplier and distribution centers to retailers using GPS sensors (Mishra, A. 2018). Given the focus of craftsmanship for the brand, this feature will enhance the trust, sometimes considered ‘guanxi’ in China (Chi and Seock-Jin, 2017), between consumer and brand as they can see where their clothing is being sourced from.

UK

The General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) was enforced on 25th May 2018

LEGAL

Businesses must now comply with the GDPR regulations that were enforced in early 2018, as not conforming to these could result in fines. Therefore, as consumers now have to actively consent to companies using their data, it is possible that Sunspel lost some of its consumer base and as a 93% of UK respondents said they had not heard of the brand before (see appendix), these customers that are now potentially lost, would have been integral to the business.

CHINA In China, there are various types of censorship and content filtering regulations used to control internet traffic, commonly referred to as the ‘Great Firewall of China’ (Ensafi et al., 2015).

Blacklisted servers include Whatsapp, Google and Facebook, hence China have many of their own bespoke social media platforms such as Wechat, Weibo and Baidu.

Launching into China means that Sunspel have to consider these censorship regulations highly, as there is an extensive list of what is and what is not allowed in marketing communication in China.

The business’ strongest reach on social is currently via Facebook, which Chinese consumers do not have access to, therefore it will be beneficial for Sunspel to invest in Instagram as a mutual platform to attract both British and Chinese consumers.

UK

ENVIRONMENTAL

Sustainability is progressively resonating among retailers, as they use incentives to encourage more ethical practices. These include upcycling overstock, donating clothes, using natural fibres with low impact, recycling fibres, creating environmental awareness campaigns and using ecofriendly packaging materials alongside various others (Howard, F. 2018) Whilst Sunspel are largely not considered a ‘sustainable’ brand, as they do not account for much within a circular economy, they are beginning to increase their sustainable activities as a business. For example, they use organic cottons in some of their clothing, however not all, as this could substitute the quality of the item. Furthermore, they provide garments in cardboard packaging to those who purchase from the business directly as opposed to wholesale. They have recently begun to donate their offcuts to charities and a possibility for SS20 is that Sunspel’s swimwear will be crafted using recycled ocean plastic – something which would really aid Sunspel’s competitive advantage. Ultimately, because Sunspel products are of such high-quality, they are purchased less frequently due to their longevity and are not synonymous with fast fashion, making them more sustainable than some brands.

CHINA Brands must integrate sustainability into their business strategies to ensure a resilient and long standing business model (Euromonitor, 2018), as sustainability leadership in the fashion industry can “serve as a real source of differentiation� (BoF and McKinsey and Co, 2018).

For example, in China, the younger generation, compared to any prior generation, are beginning to value how a brand does business and ultimately what the brand stands for (BoF, 2018) when making purchases. Thus, it is essential for an entity to associate themselves with CSR practices and ethical conduct as these are minimum requirements from Chinese consumers (Chandan, H.C and Das, R. 2017). Sunspel should therefore consider using a sustainable stance when entering China given that they currently allocate their off-cut materials to charities/ low-income families within the UK.

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MACRO TRENDS:

The proliferation of consumer demand for personalised products and services, alongside a personalised customer journey itself, has demonstrated that marketing is not only about what consumers buy, but also how they buy it (Lannes et al., 2018). Thus, brands need to consider “country-specific, age and gender attitudes to personalised marketing”, and recognise the “characteristics and attributes that make a message feel personal to different demographics, or they will risk alienating customers” (Halliday, S. 2018).

IMPACT ON SUNSPEL: Sunspel currently captures personalised marketing well for a British audience; it uses heritage and storytelling to depict how their products are crafted with precision in Long Eaton, Nottingham.

Furthermore, crediting staff members who quality check the garments on the item’s label also makes the item special to a British consumer. However, consumers are looking for more curated recommendations, which Sunspel should invest in online.

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P E R S O N A L I S A T I O N

Chinese consumers have long attached great importance to foreign brands; they retain a sense of safety and quality (Euromonitor, 2018), and allow consumers to present a self-image that makes others think them rich, generous and have high social status (MacKinnon, A. and Powell, B. 2008), also known as ‘Mianzi.’ This refers to “recognition by others of an individual’s social standing and position” (Buckley, Clegg, & Tan, 2006), thus, global brands rank “higher in perception than their domestic counterparts” (Prange, C. 2016. Pg. 14).

However, the idea that China is synonymous with cheap or entry-level products no longer holds (Hebbert, J. 2018) and home-grown brands are increasingly posing a threat to European brands wanting to internationalise. For example, the ‘quality by China’ program, which supports local brands and original designs, is gaining momentum on e-commerce platforms such as Taobao (Euromonitor, 2018). Moreover, 60% of Chinese consumers said they like a combination of both Chinese and foreign branded clothing (see appendix3), demonstrating a shift in consumer taste.

Whilst Chinese consumers were previously considered allocentric individuals (MacKinnon and Powell, 2008. Pg 31), they are more individualistic and self-expressive within today’s zeitgeist as “‘Ge xing’, which means individuality, has gone from carrying a negative social meaning to becoming a fashion compliment, applauding those who have presence, style and attitude to pull off an original look” (Chu, S. 2017). Thus, Sunspel should personalise their product offerings and services to consider local market needs and shifts, thinking global but acting local (Liu et al, 2016).

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C O N N E C T E D W O R L D

E-commerce platforms are increasingly becoming the entry point of choice for consumers, as online platforms offer an array of products and use insight-driven marketing to provide advanced customer convenience, seamless logistics and customer care (The State of Fashion, 2018). Brands are therefore no longer only competing with other brands, but also social networks.

IMPACT ON SUNSPEL: In the last 6 months, Sunspel’s website has had 194.48K visits, with a 36% bounce rate, highlighting positive engagement. Sunspel’s main source of traffic comes directly through desktop with a volume of 43%, however, currently only receives 5% of traffic via social media (Similarweb.com, 2019). As Sunspel’s selected route to market in China is via e-commerce, they must constantly improve their engagement on social media in the UK first, as social media enables brands to acquire consumer attention, raise brand awareness and increase sales (Rath, P. 2015). Furthermore, Mintel (2018) forecasts that online sales will grow to strong double digits in the next five years.

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FIG 22

Given that China is a technologically advanced country, social media and e-commerce platforms are dominating, and account for a greater proportion of retail sales than anywhere else in the world; according to China’s Ministry of Commerce, online retail totalled 7.18 trillion yuan in 2017, an increase of 32 percent YOY (Hall, C. 2018), with 59% of Chinese consumers shopping specifically for luxury online.The State of Fashion (2018) connotes that a key driver of this is Alibaba’s Single’s Day, as it is the largest online shopping day on the planet. Furthermore, online giants Tmall and JD.com control more than 80 percent of the Chinese online apparel market.

Primary research evidenced that 48% Chinese respondents felt that having a digital experience was important in their shopping journey. Additionally, a focus group revealed that all Chinese respondents use social media to become aware of a brand (see appendix4). Thus it is integral that Sunspel utilise all forms of e-commerce platforms as a gateway to gain brand recognition.

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CONNECTED WORLD MICRO TRENDS: KEY OPINION LEADERS (KOLs): KOLs are effective communicators for brands and are increasingly ruling their strategies as they can reach people and build awareness via social media. However, e-commerce KOLs who produce content for Tmall and Taobao are proving a better investment. This is because of ‘user intentionality,’ as when a consumer logs onto these platforms, their intention is to shop; whereas on Wechat and Weibo people are looking to engage with friends and family, and therefore do not convert at the high rates that e-commerce platforms do (Rapp, J. 2019).

Nonetheless, whilst the influencer economy is thriving in China, trust and an established buyer’s journey should be prioritised by new market entry brands, as “Chinese society is fundamentally influenced by its high-context nature where personal relationships and reciprocity build trust,” therefore, if a brand does not have “organic demand supplied by a healthy Daigou market, that brand’s first order of the day will be establishing trust with potential customers” (Whaley, E. 2018). KOLs, therefore, can bridge this gap.

FIG 24

FIG 23

FIG 25

FIG 26

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FIG 27

E-WALLET’s: Digital proximity payments recorded explosive growth in in 2017, due to “the rising ownership of smartphones and the wide presence of leading third party payment platforms such as Alipay and WeChat Wallet”. Both systems adopt QR payment technology, which is becoming ubiquitous in China as it enables various tasks to be completed, such as “making payments, obtaining discount vouchers, subscribing newsletters and joining in the social media accounts etc” (Euromonitor, 2018). QR codes are favoured by consumers as they are convenient and tackle the fear of receiving counterfeit bank notes when spending cash. Ultimately, allowing these payments in Europe are key stepping stones to internationalise.

FIG 28

MICRO VIDEOS: Short video advertising is booming in China (Ouyang, 2018), due to the rise of visual content platforms such as Douyin and Kuaishou. Bin (2018) suggests that these platforms “meet people’s growing need for new forms of entertainment, and they better transcend cultural barriers” and are being utilised by affordable luxury brands such as Michael Kors who is said to have received positive results, generated from Douyin’s 200 million active daily users (Hallanan, L. 2018).

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FIG 29

C U S T O M E R

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FIG 30

A N A L Y S I S

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Sunspel are currently targeting a core demographic of ABC1 twenty-five to fifty-five-year-olds. Whilst Sunspel is not exclusively a male brand, they predominantly target males as they represent 90% of the business. The Sunspel customer is wealthy, well-informed and professional. They are independent thinkers – “men and women who are fashion savvy but never slaves to tendencies.” (Facebook.com, n.d.) They pose strong reliance on high-quality clothing, but simultaneously, like to shop other high-quality discretionary products. They are considered DINKY’s (Double Income No Kids Yet) and like to spend their disposable income on brands such as Sunspel, Rag & Bone and John Smedley – however their strong interest in technology means they are also loyal purchasers of Apple.

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OSCAR REYNOLDS

MOTIVATIONS PRICE INFLUENCER QUALITY REVIEWS

SHOPPING BEHAVIOUR

FIG 31

Oscar is a 28 year-old intelligent, gregarious and ambitious individual. He lives in his apartment with his girlfriend Melissa and dog Barney in Richmond, London.

Oscar uses roughly 4 touchpoints on his customer journey.

These include looking at social media platforms Instagram and Facebook, researching brands on their website, going into store to feel the product and then simultaneously purchasing in-store. However, sometimes he chooses to purchase in Department stores.

INTERESTS Oscar enjoys going to the pub with his best friends regularly Oscar enjoys going for a daily swim before work but his favourite sport is skiing Oscar enjoys dining with his girlfriend Melissa, and eats out roughly 1-2 times a week

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SWOT STRENGTHS

WEAKNESSES

High-quality clothing

Extremely low brand awareness

Use innovative fabrics

Lacks brand personality

Strong 150-year heritage

Not producing masses of content on social media

High organic search on Google Manufacturer in the UK

OPPORTUNITIES

Faltering in sustainable actions

THREATS

Fashion e-commerce in China set to grow by More fashion-forward brands entering China 26% by 2021 (Statista.com, 2018) Some Chinese consumers are still Alipay - huge consumers base and lends itself conspicuous and want visible logos to promoting the brand as it sends push notfications to consumers of retailers nearby Home-grown brands in China gaining momentum who use it Chinese tourists - large consumer base e.g.

Chinese New Year

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W H E R E

D O W E T O G O ?

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W A N T

FIG 32

O B J E C T I V E S

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To increase YOY sales in China from 4% to 20% by FY end 2021 FIG 33

To increase overall online sales from 40% to 70% by FY end 2021 To increase conversion rate from 13% to 18% by FY end 2019.

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WHO SHALL WE TARGET? The Sunspel customer in China can be considered a luxury intellectual. Both male and females who adopt their own comprehension of what constitutes as luxury, but keep their distance from trends. They prefer discreet and classical models of luxury brands, such as Sunspel, as opposed to conspicuous luxury.

Veblen (1899) believed that high social position and wealth were key drivers of conspicuous consumption. However, consumption for luxury intellectuals is very rational, individualistic and largely inconspicuous (Chevalier and Xiao, 2010.

P.60). This customer segment is relatively small, as some Chinese consumers do not have the cultural capital to appreciate Western brands that use subtle to no markers (Berger and Ward, 2010. P.567) on their clothing, however, it is on the rise as Generation Z are increasingly adopting inconspicuous consumption. Thus, the Sunspel customer in China is a lot younger than their western counterpart and could be considered KIPPERS – (Kids In Parents Pockets Eroding Retirement Savings).

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MOTIVATIONS

MEI HUANG

PRICE KOL QUALITY REVIEWS

SHOPPING BEHAVIOUR

FIG 34

Mei is a 20-year-old sophisticated, digitally-savvy and socially aware individual.

She lives in Chengdu with her mother and father.

Mei uses roughly 8 touchpoints on her customer journey.These include researching brands official social media platforms on WeChat and Weibo, looking up product reviews, seeing if her favourite KOLs are talking about the brand, going onto a brands website, visiting Tmall, purchasing the product, and reviwing the product. She purcases the product via her mobile

INTERESTS Mei likes to travel to Europe during peak holday seasons such as Golden Week, but enjoys shopping both internationally and locally.

Mei enjoys spending time with her family and friends, and always values their opinions.

Mei spends the majority of her time on social media, looking for inspriation for her next purchase - her mobile is her prize possesion.

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FIG 35

M A R K E T I N G S T R A T E G Y

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YEAR ONE The focus for the first of the three-year marketing strategy is to maximise the impact of Sunspel’s Chinese activities within the UK, as this will set the business up for growth when entering China. To achieve this Sunspel must use Mandarin point of sale within UK stores, and simultaneously online, as primary research evidenced that 53% Chinese consumers prefer to shop luxury/premium via a brand’s own website (see appendix3)), greeting Chinese consumers in Mandarin and investing in Chinese e-payment systems such as Alipay terminals. These activities will make the Chinese consumer journey feel more personalized and seamless, whilst also targeting the digitally-savvy consumer efficiently.

These operations should be set up by Chinese New Year, Golden Week and Singles Day as these are the holidays that attract the most tourists in Europe (Soroko, and Rashetnikau, 2016). Thus, Sunspel must adapt to include the Lunar calendar, as it operates differently to the west.

In conjunction with this, Sunspel should launch onto social media platforms WeChat and Weibo so they can leverage brand awareness, giving the Chinese consumer enough time to learn about the brand and its heritage. This means that Sunspel should incorporate widely available Wi-Fi within their stores so it is easily accessible

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FIG 36

Sunspel should prepare to release a new collection which combines the heritage of China with the quality of Sunspel.

This new range will use Xiangyunsha silk to create the balance between a local and global strategy. Using this fabric will allow more sophisticated consumers to engage with the brand; it will resonate with China’s history in a way that is not considered outdated like oriental designs sometimes are when used by western brands. Furthermore, this will aid in targeting the female consumer in China effectively as the fabric can be designed into a nightwear collection. However, it can only be exported into finish goods after hot sun exposure (Lin, S.H. and Mammel, K., 2012) and therefore can only be performed between April – September.

Therefore, the collection can be released in the second year but prepared in the first.

64

FIG 37

SEARCH RESULTS

DETAIL PAGE

TMALL.HK AGREEMENT

CONFIRM ORDER

CUSTOMER COMMENTS

ORDER MANAGEMENT

PAYMENT SUCCESSFUL

ALIPAY PAYMENT

YEAR TWO As Sunspel’s selected route to market is via crossborder e-commerce, it is integral the business liaises with the correct online platforms for the brand.

This can be tough as “China’s online ecosystem is one of the most complex and unfamiliar in the world” (Hall, C. 2018). However, the acquisition of Chinese customers on WeChat and Weibo within the first year of the strategy will enable access to bigger influential platforms such as JD.com and Alibaba’s Tmall.To gain insight on which platform is best for Sunspel, an in-depth analysis was carried out (see appendix6). Consequently, Sunspel should launch the business on Tmall.

Furthermore, Tmall is a segment of Taobao’s infrastructure, indicating that it already has an established consumer base in reach; and as 57% Chinese respondents said they prefer to shop via this platform, then Tmall is the recommended route to market. Additonally, it allows access to China’s largest e-payment Alipay, and further enables consumers to leave reviews after purchase – a key factor in Chinese consumer’s customer journeys (see appendix4).

Once set up, Sunspel will be ready to launch the silk nightwear collection ready for spring/summer. .

Tmall is considered a destination for “quality and brand-name goods” that cater to increasingly sophisticated consumers (Tmall.com, 2019) and allows businesses to set up their own stores so they can control the whole consumer experience, a crucial element for Sunspel to maintain their brand image.

FIG 38

65

FIG 39

With the Olympics being held in Tokyo, Sunspel should utilise their existing stores in Japan, especially as the event is “expected to generate tourism flows from its North Asian neighbour,” targeting an estimated “40 million international arrivals” (Mintel, 2018). In conjunction with the UK, Sunspel should, therefore, invest in Chinese digital wallet payment systems such as Alipay within their stores in Japan ready for the arrivals of Chinese consumers. Furthermore, having a one-year foundation on social media accounts Wechat and Weibo will enable Chinese customers to become familiar with the brand. Sunspel can therefore target an existing consumer base, inviting them to physical stores, as shopping has become an integral touristic activity for Chinese consumers, whom are especially motivated by luxury goods (Hung et al., 2018).

66

YEAR THREE Sunspel can consider opening a flagship store in China within year 3, as they “assist smaller luxury brands to reposition their brand upwards, and hence increase their brands’ image and status” with the aim to “create brand loyalty and increase brand awareness” (Liu et al, 2016). An analysis of possible locations (see appendix7) highlighted that the chosen location would be Chengdu, as mid-sized cities are becoming more opportunistic for international brands, “drawing a mounting appetite for Western fashion and lifestyles.” Furthermore, Chengdu is “one of the most popular places for luxury goods shopping in China,” has an 8.8m population and is a destination whereby consumers favour localised products. Citizens from Chengdu value family time, and “are more influenced by recommendations from friends/family and celebrity endorsement, compared to China’s average” (Euromonitor, 2018).

67

H O W T O

D O W E W A N T G E T T H E R E ?

68

FIG 40

C O M M S

69

P L A N

FIG 41

0-3 MONTHS Sunspel should target the existing Chinese tourist consumer base within the UK before delving into the Chinese market immediately. This means maximising Sunspel’s activities within popular tourist locations; Chinese New Year in London is the “biggest Chinese New Year celebration outside Asia” (Reynolds, L. 2019), and is being celebrated in London’s Chinatown on 10 February 2019. Furthermore, Bicester Village attracts an estimated 1.2 million Chinese shoppers, and can be accessed via Marylebone station which lends itself as a key destination for Sunspel as announcements are made in Mandarin, and one of Sunspel’s store on Chiltern Street is close by.

70

Sunspel should use event marketing to gain brand awareness, drive footfall and increase sales during this time by sampling free fortune cookies wrapped in branded foil packaging. The message inside will feature QR codes that provide consumers with a promotional code to receive 20% off their first purchase. However, the consumer will have to follow an action e.g. ‘follow us on WeChat’, to receive it. Alongside this, consumers will be given a red envelope, which traditionally symbolises good wishes and luck for the new year ahead. The front of the envelope will feature a pig to symbolise the Year of the Pig and inside will have a card which says ‘Xin Nian Kuai Le from Sunspel,’ translating ‘Happy New Year’, and on the back details such as ‘Find us here’, ‘Now accepting Alipay’, ‘Shop online now’ will be written, which can be given to family members.

However, store and website touchpoints means that Sunspel must incorporate Mandarin point of sale and Mandarin website translation.

FIG 42

Xin Nian Kuai Le From Sunspel

71

FIG 43

FIG 44

Sunspel should also be maximizing their activities on social media, which includes Instagram, WeChat and Weibo. On Instagram Sunspel need to be utilising video content on their page to engage with the zeitgeist, as Instagram is a mutual platform between UK and Chinese consumers and is one that is not banned by the Chinese government.

Short clips which showcase brand personality can be used on their page to attract consumers to their website, Chinese or British. This is especially important if Sunspel want to attract a younger audience as they are favouring video-content platforms such as Douyin. Furthermore, on WeChat and Weibo, Sunspel should create digital advertisements which are in tandem with marketing in the UK. For example, a video advertisement which presents a fortune cookie cracking open to reveal a digital QR code, enabling consumers to link to Sunspel’s website to view the items.

72

FIG 45

FIG 46

FOLLOW US TO FIND OUT MORE

3-9 MONTHS Sunspel need to attract the large number of tourists that visit the UK, as in 2018, it was estimated that “349,000 visits from China to the UK with visitors spending about £722 million” (Visitbritain.com, 2017). To maximise this opportunity, Sunspel could use paid advertising such as TV spots to feature within visa application centres across China to gain more brand recognition. This would be a short 30 second shot, for 12 spots, 7 hours a day for a period of 6 months, ensuring that those visiting the UK during Golden Week will be targeted.

73

07-12 MONTHS Sunspel should also create a KOL campaign, as KOLs are powerful touchpoints for Chinese consumers.This should be in the middle of the year as brands can get diluted during major events such as Singles Day. An ‘always-on’ strategy with KOLs is integral, constantly working with them as opposed to doing a one-off campaign as this is how western brands will begin to see results. This may require ten or more influencers per month, even if it is just product seeding to earn brand exposure and KOL relationships. One key influencer that Sunspel should work with is Becky Li, as whilst many may disagree, entry brands should spend a large amount of their marketing budget on top-tier influencers. These KOLs can “help you lay the foundation and establish a positive reputation for your brand” (Hallanan, L. 2018) enabling brands to then work with micro-influencers.

Becky Li has 7 million followers on Weibo and WeChat (Luxuryinfluencer.com, 2018), and 41.9K on Instagram (Instagram.com, 2019). Many of these followers are considered “busy working women, who have little time to go shopping” and are thus intrigued to know where she buys her basic and classic pieces.

Becky Li fits in line with Sunspel as she believes in the philosophy that “a wardrobe should be 70 percent basics and 30 percent trendy pieces.” Furthermore, she notes that quality basics clothing brands are less common in mainland China, and that perceptions are changing. Thus, timeless wardrobe staples are becoming a priority for consumers – a clear gap in the market for Sunspel in which Becky Li assist with before Sunspel launches onto Tmall.

FIG 47

MEASURE & REVIEW FIG 48

76

1 2

Sunspel can track how many users scan the QR codes and measure this figure against objectives concerning social media followings particularly, but also conversion rates and sales increase.

“Immediate, direct sales from KOL campaigns in China are really only possible for well established and trusted brands. New brands and products need time to establish awareness and trust with consumers” (Hallanan, L 2018). However, Becky Li typically has a click-through rate of 15-25% which is much larger than a ‘good’ KOL campaign, which would typically receive 1-2%. Sunspel can measure the success of her campaigns by monitoring whether there is a particular sales uplift after Becky wears/promotes a certain product.

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APPENDIX 1 BUDGET Finance: Costing for Strategy Costs for new strategies

These all need to be deducted from sales £ income

One off costs

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

TOTAL

£0.00

£0.00

£0.00

£0.00

£0.00

£0.00 £56,848.74

Marketing costs Joining Weibo

1

£850.00

Joining WeChat

2

£869.40

TV Ad (Visit Britain)

3

Samples

4 Fortune Cookies

£9,200.00

Envelopes

£2,103.74

Personalisation Website localisation

People

£13,320.00

£505.60 5

£30,000.00

TOTAL

£43,528.74

£0.00

£0.00

£0.00

£0.00 £13,320.00

(New permanent salaries)

Brand Ambassadors (x6)

£432.00

3 top-tier KOL posts on WeChat

£25,785.00

2 top-tier KOL posts on Weibo

£6,876.00

2 top-tier KOL posts on Instagram

£3,667.00 Total

£0.00

£432.00

£0.00

£0.00

£0.00 £29,452.00 £6,876.00

£0.00

£0.00

£0.00

£0.00

£0.00 £36,760.00

£0.00 £1,495.00 £0.00 £1,927.00

£0.00 £0.00

£0.00 £0.00

£0.00 £0.00 £0.00 £0.00 £29,452.00 £6,876.00

£0.00 £0.00

£0.00 £0.00

£0.00 £0.00

£0.00 £0.00

£0.00 £1,495.00 £0.00 £38,255.00

£43,528.74 £1,927.00

£0.00

£0.00

£0.00 £42,772.00 £6,876.00

£0.00

£0.00

£0.00

£0.00

£0.00 £95,103.74

Operations services (EXTRA COSTS) Alipay terminal installation

£1,495.00

Place - distribution (EXTRA COSTS) Total TOTAL Total One off costs

78

Joining Weibo - https://www.hailr.co.uk/chinablog/shall-i-have-a-weibo-account Joining WeChat - https://walkthechat.com/wechat-official-account-simple-guide/ TV Ad (Based on 6 months) - https://www.visitbritain.org/sites/default/files/vb-corporate/Documents-Library/ visa_centres.PDF Fortune Cookies (Based on 18,000) - https://www.yumbles.com/high-tea-to-high-table/custonm-branded-fortune-cookies.html Envelopes (Based on 20,000) - https://www.vistaprint.co.uk/stationery/coloured-envelopes?xnav=EnvelopesFamilyPage_Tile_ColoredEnvelopes Personalisation - https://www.speedystamps.co.uk/product/plastic-ink-pads/ Website localisation (based on 40 pages) - http://nanjingmarketinggroup.com/blog/website-localization--china KOLs - http://app.parklu.com/calculator Alipay terminal installation (based on 5 stores) - http://www.baselineprocessing.com/wechat-pay-alipay/

79

PROFIT Based on a 5% increase

Finance: Financial Plan Initiatives Sales IN

RRP £98*

Turnover (use £000 AVG RRP) units Inc variable (avg gmt cost) Cost of sales £ COS

OUT

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

TOTAL

875,000

875,000

850,000

850,000

850,000

900,000

900,000

900,000

875,000

875,000

875,000

875,000

£43,750.00

£43,750.00

£42,500.00

£42,500.00

£42,500.00

£45,000.00

£45,000.00

£45,000.00

£43,750.00

£43,750.00

£43,750.00

446

446

434

434

434

459

459

459

446

446

446

446

29.4

29.4

29.4

29.4

29.4

29.4

29.4

29.4

29.4

29.4

29.4

29.4

10500000

£43,750.00 £525,000.00 Estimate sales -units x £RRP Number of garments sold

£13,124.16

£13,124.16

£12,747.84

£12,747.84

£12,747.84

£13,500.48

£13,500.48

£13,500.48

£13,124.16

£13,124.16

£13,124.16

Total One off costs

£43,528.74

£1,927.00

£0.00

£0.00

£0.00

£42,772.00

£6,876.00

£0.00

£0.00

£0.00

£0.00

Total Costs

£56,652.90

£15,051.16

£12,747.84

£12,747.84

£12,747.84

£56,272.48

£20,376.48

£13,500.48

£13,124.16

£13,124.16

£13,124.16

£13,124.16 £252,593.66

-£12,902.90

£28,698.84

£29,752.16

£29,752.16

£29,752.16 -£11,272.48

£24,623.52

£31,499.52

£30,625.84

£30,625.84

£30,625.84

£30,625.84 £272,406.34

-£12,902.90

£15,795.94

£45,548.10

£75,300.26 £105,052.42

Profit (IN less OUT)(+/-)

Cumulative profit (+/-)

£13,124.16 £157,489.92 £0.00

£95,103.74

£93,779.94 £118,403.46 £149,902.98 £180,528.82 £211,154.66 £241,780.50 £272,406.34 £272,406.34

* Based on an RRP of £98 - (2/3 T-shirts £65, 1/3 Jumpers £200) = (65 x 75) + (200 x 25) = 9875 / 100 = £98) Average gmt cost based on a 70% margin

80

APPENDIX 2

81

82

APPENDIX 3

(transferred from paper surveys)

83

84

85

APPENDIX 4 Female aged 25

Female aged 23

Female aged 24

Male aged 21

86

APPENDIX 5

87

APPENDIX 6 Tmall • Alibaba is the parent company to Tmall meaning that Tmall already has a huge established consumer base • Alibaba has been testing AI and has named the new technology Fashion AI, which can recommend complementary products based on information about a shopper’s previous browsing and purchase habits on its shopping sites, like Tmall and Taobao • Alibaba sold a record 168.2 billion RMB ($25.3 billion) worth of goods on Single’s Day • Tmall enables access to Alipay, China’s largest e-payment • Largest B2C platform • Tmall is established as a destination for quality, brand-name goods that cater to increasingly sophisticated Chinese consumers (Tmall.com, 2019) • Enables consumers to leave reviews after purchase • 47% of Chinese respondents from primary research said they prefer to shop premium/luxury products on TaoBao/Tmall • To sell on Tmall you have to be a trusted seller • Can set up your own store which allows the business to control the entire experience Limitations • One off fee of $25,000 • Can access both Tmall and Taobao via only one channel, so there is a risk of counterfeit products

88

JD.com Advantages • Strategic partnership with Tencent includes access to WeChat, China’s dominant social media platform with over 1 billion users • Partnership with Baidu (China’s similar google platform) so users browsing for product information on Baidu’s mobile search app can now access a dedicated section to buy items directly from JD.com • “Fashion is one of the fastest growing categories for JD.com, [with a] net revenue of $55.6 billion in 2017” (+40.3% YOY) and “gross profit for full year 2017 of $7.8 billion” (+43.7% from full year 2016) • Largest retailer in China in 2017 • Zero policy for counterfeit products on JD.com • Nationwide logistics in-house that covers 99% of China’s population • Over 550 warehouses and 7000 delivery stations • Higher average basket size across whole industry • 80% orders fulfilled through mobile commerce Limitations • • •

JD.com shed 44% market share in 2018 JD.com’s Chief Executive has been allegedly accused of criminal sexual misconduct Scandal over counterfeit products

89

APPENDIX 7 Hong Kong Enables consumers to travel and shop luxury simultaneously – two features of the tourist product mix and often acts as a gateway for Western brands to launch into mainland China successfully as its “culture, geographic location, human resources and distribution systems” all act as advantages to overcome the lack of local knowledge within mainland China (Sindy et al, 2016). Furthermore, it is cheaper for consumers due to having no taxation on products.

First tier cities such as Shanghai and Bejing Very popular luxury shopping destinations that offer a lot of brand choice. However, these markets are extremely saturated, and “a lot of messages simply get lost if you only communicate in Shanghai or Beijing... so the regional flagship store is very important in China, especially since the wealth is not only concentrated in first tier cities like in most other markets”.

Mid-sized cities are more opportunistic for international brands, Chengdu, is “one of the most popular places for luxury goods shopping in China,” has an 8.8m population and is a destination of which consumers favour localised products.

Citizens value family time, and “are more influenced by recommendations from friends/family and celebrity endorsement, compared to China’s average” (Euromonitor, 2018).

90

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