The Miso Tasty cookbook explores the great versatility of miso, and demonstrates the depth that it can bring to everyday cooking. Miso is full of possibilities, not just for soups, but as a flavoursome component in marinades, dressings and even in desserts. As diets become more focused on being wholesome and nutritious, this ancient soybean paste is fast becoming a vital ingredient in every cook’s kitchen. Here, miso expert Bonnie Chung shares 60 recipes on how to enjoy this ingredient in both Japanese and non-Japanese dishes. You will find all the classics, such as miso black cod and nasu dengaku, as well as modern applications that boost the umami in everyday meals, such as smothering miso butter over roasted corn or toasted bread. You will never look at miso in the same way again!
THE COOKBOOK
With instructions on how to make your own miso at home, and an in-depth exploration of the many types of miso with accompanying cooking tips, this book is ideal for adventurous cooks wanting to expand their repertoire of Japanese dishes, as well as those who want to include more umami-rich flavours in their everyday cooking.
EVERYDAY, TASTY RECIPES WITH MISO – THE JAPANESE SUPERFOOD
BONNIE CHUNG
BONNIE CHUNG UK £14.99
www.pavilionbooks.com
THE COOKBOOK EVERYDAY, TASTY RECIPES WITH MISO – THE JAPANESE SUPERFOOD
BONNIE CHUNG Photography by Yuki Sugiura
First published in the United Kingdom in 2016 by Pavilion 1 Gower Street, London WC1E 6HD Text © Bonnie Chung, 2016 Design and layout © Pavilion Books Company Ltd, 2016 Photography and illustrations © Pavilion Books Company Ltd, 2016
Introduction 06 What is miso?
08
how is miso made?
10
The moral rights of the author have been asserted.
the many types of miso
12
miso nutritious
16
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owner.
Miso in the world today
18
what is umami?
25
cooking with miso
26
How to make miso at home
30
ISBN: 978-1-91090-461-9
dashi 33 Miso Soups
34
A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Miso in Spreads & Dips
60
Miso Dressings & Sauces
74
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Miso Marinades & pickles
100
Reproduction by Mission, Hong Kong Printed and bound by xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Miso in Desserts & Sweets
124
This book can be ordered direct from the publisher at: www.pavilionbooks.com PUBLISHER’S ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Thank you to Yuki Sugiura for photography and hand lettering, Aya Nishimura for food and prop styling, Merlin Evans for illustrations, Laura Russell and Sophie Yamamoto for design, and Emily Preece-Morrison and Lucy Bannell for editorial work.
Index 142 suppliers/Acknowledgements 144
Contents
Introduction It has long been a dream of mine to write a book on miso. Had a version of this book existed when my obsession with this amazing ingredient first took hold though, I would never have embarked upon the incredible, life-changing journey that I did. Now I want miso to become your best friend in the kitchen too, ready to add instant depth, texture and nutrition to your food. I’m certain it will delight and entrance you as much as it has me. I was always puzzled by the limited choice of miso on offer in the UK: how could something so central to Japanese cuisine be so little-known outside of that country? I was forced to bridge the gap. Now, my business, Miso Tasty, makes authentic miso products, teaches the benefits of eating this ancient foodstuff and inspires its use in everyday cooking. This book is part of my mission to educate people about miso. It took three long years to source and make my own miso products; a period of my life that was fuelled by a stubborn determination and enthusiasm, but was also peppered with endless unexpected setbacks. Looking back, though, it was an important journey and a critical lesson in perseverance that has been reflected in the craft of every miso maker I’ve met. As a miso geek, I have visited century-old factories, dropped in on producers at their homes and at specialist stores in Japan to ask all my questions. Even today, with every trip to Japan, I discover new makers and novel ways to enjoy miso. While I am often cited as the UK expert on miso, I see myself firmly as a dedicated student and impassioned enthusiast of miso. I am in awe of the real experts and makers of miso in Japan from whom I continue to learn. I see my role more as a communicator for miso outside of Japan, where I continue to extol its virtues and share my ideas, research and experiences in using this ancient cooking ingredient. Miso can and should play a vital role in your kitchen. The recipes within these pages are a mix of well-loved classics and new discoveries. You will find all the dishes that you know and love, as well as some more creative uses that will surprise even the most adventurous eater. Once you have tried these dishes, I hope you will gain the confidence to experiment with miso in your own creations, too. If you find yourself often reaching for a jar of miso, then I would consider my mission for this book accomplished. Enjoy! 6
INTRODUCTION
Introduction It has long been a dream of mine to write a book on miso. Had a version of this book existed when my obsession with this amazing ingredient first took hold though, I would never have embarked upon the incredible, life-changing journey that I did. Now I want miso to become your best friend in the kitchen too, ready to add instant depth, texture and nutrition to your food. I’m certain it will delight and entrance you as much as it has me. I was always puzzled by the limited choice of miso on offer in the UK: how could something so central to Japanese cuisine be so little-known outside of that country? I was forced to bridge the gap. Now, my business, Miso Tasty, makes authentic miso products, teaches the benefits of eating this ancient foodstuff and inspires its use in everyday cooking. This book is part of my mission to educate people about miso. It took three long years to source and make my own miso products; a period of my life that was fuelled by a stubborn determination and enthusiasm, but was also peppered with endless unexpected setbacks. Looking back, though, it was an important journey and a critical lesson in perseverance that has been reflected in the craft of every miso maker I’ve met. As a miso geek, I have visited century-old factories, dropped in on producers at their homes and at specialist stores in Japan to ask all my questions. Even today, with every trip to Japan, I discover new makers and novel ways to enjoy miso. While I am often cited as the UK expert on miso, I see myself firmly as a dedicated student and impassioned enthusiast of miso. I am in awe of the real experts and makers of miso in Japan from whom I continue to learn. I see my role more as a communicator for miso outside of Japan, where I continue to extol its virtues and share my ideas, research and experiences in using this ancient cooking ingredient. Miso can and should play a vital role in your kitchen. The recipes within these pages are a mix of well-loved classics and new discoveries. You will find all the dishes that you know and love, as well as some more creative uses that will surprise even the most adventurous eater. Once you have tried these dishes, I hope you will gain the confidence to experiment with miso in your own creations, too. If you find yourself often reaching for a jar of miso, then I would consider my mission for this book accomplished. Enjoy! 6
INTRODUCTION
WHAT IS MISO?
Miso is quite unlike anything else. Essentially, it is a fermented soybean paste made with a grain such as rice or barley, salt, water and a bacterial culture called Aspergillus oryzae. But, though the ingredients are simple, the transformation they undergo is extraordinary.
There are more than 1,000 miso producers in Japan and there are wide regional differences. Northern regions, where most of the country’s rice is farmed, tend to prefer rice misos; the ancient capital of Kyoto loves the more refined sweet white miso; the area surrounding the Aichi prefecture likes pure soybean miso; while the southern regions opt for barley miso or miso made from other grains.
As with other fermented foods, such as cheese, kimchi or sauerkraut, the flavour of miso becomes more complex the longer it is fermented. The smell is distinctive: when you walk into a miso store in Japan, you are greeted by a heady cloud of fragrance, like freshly roasted coffee or melted dark chocolate.
In Japan, there is a lovely saying, ‘temae miso’, which means to blow your own trumpet; literally, ‘I don’t want to boast about my miso but…’. This is an unusual sentiment in Japanese culture, where humility is valued; but when it comes to pride in your home-made miso, modesty is abandoned!
The ‘bible’ of Japanese food and culture, Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art by Shizuo Tsuji, says that, ‘in many ways, miso is to Japanese cooking what butter is to French cooking and olive oil to the Italians’. I have to agree that it’s just as ubiquitous. The first records of miso are from more than 2,500 years ago. It was probably brought to Japan by Buddhist priests from China during the 7th century. At the time, using fermented mixtures of salt, grains and soybeans was a key way to preserve food during warmer months, and this practice formed the backbone to miso-making. The original Chinese soybean paste was transformed in Japanese cuisine into miso and shoyu (Japanese soy sauce); two hallmarks of the country’s food. Interestingly, there was historically an element of class concerning who ate which kind of miso. Wealthy landowners, royalty or samurai would
8
W H AT I S M I S O?
Today, in kitchens both in Japan and across the world, miso holds endless possibilities in both traditional and modern dishes: swirl it into a hot stock for miso soup, mix it with a drop of olive oil and a spoon of mustard for a deeply satisfying salad dressing, or baste it on to steaks for a quick but deeply flavoured barbecue marinade. For me, miso is the ancient cupboard staple I can’t live without.
A map of Japanese miso varieties, linked by regional identity
A typical miso store in Japan will hold collections of over 30 types of miso from around the country. Samples can be tried before purchasing by weight.
only eat rice miso that had been made using expensive polished white rice. It was often so expensive that it was used as gifts, or even as currency. Peasants and farm hands were forbidden to use the rice they harvested to make their own miso, so used any broken rice, or other grains such as millet and barley. This explains why darker miso made from these grains has a reputation, even today, as ‘poor man’s miso’.
KEY Sweet White Rice Miso Red Rice Miso White Rice Miso Barley Miso Soybean Miso
W H AT I S M I S O?
9
WHAT IS MISO?
Miso is quite unlike anything else. Essentially, it is a fermented soybean paste made with a grain such as rice or barley, salt, water and a bacterial culture called Aspergillus oryzae. But, though the ingredients are simple, the transformation they undergo is extraordinary.
There are more than 1,000 miso producers in Japan and there are wide regional differences. Northern regions, where most of the country’s rice is farmed, tend to prefer rice misos; the ancient capital of Kyoto loves the more refined sweet white miso; the area surrounding the Aichi prefecture likes pure soybean miso; while the southern regions opt for barley miso or miso made from other grains.
As with other fermented foods, such as cheese, kimchi or sauerkraut, the flavour of miso becomes more complex the longer it is fermented. The smell is distinctive: when you walk into a miso store in Japan, you are greeted by a heady cloud of fragrance, like freshly roasted coffee or melted dark chocolate.
In Japan, there is a lovely saying, ‘temae miso’, which means to blow your own trumpet; literally, ‘I don’t want to boast about my miso but…’. This is an unusual sentiment in Japanese culture, where humility is valued; but when it comes to pride in your home-made miso, modesty is abandoned!
The ‘bible’ of Japanese food and culture, Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art by Shizuo Tsuji, says that, ‘in many ways, miso is to Japanese cooking what butter is to French cooking and olive oil to the Italians’. I have to agree that it’s just as ubiquitous. The first records of miso are from more than 2,500 years ago. It was probably brought to Japan by Buddhist priests from China during the 7th century. At the time, using fermented mixtures of salt, grains and soybeans was a key way to preserve food during warmer months, and this practice formed the backbone to miso-making. The original Chinese soybean paste was transformed in Japanese cuisine into miso and shoyu (Japanese soy sauce); two hallmarks of the country’s food. Interestingly, there was historically an element of class concerning who ate which kind of miso. Wealthy landowners, royalty or samurai would
8
W H AT I S M I S O?
Today, in kitchens both in Japan and across the world, miso holds endless possibilities in both traditional and modern dishes: swirl it into a hot stock for miso soup, mix it with a drop of olive oil and a spoon of mustard for a deeply satisfying salad dressing, or baste it on to steaks for a quick but deeply flavoured barbecue marinade. For me, miso is the ancient cupboard staple I can’t live without.
A map of Japanese miso varieties, linked by regional identity
A typical miso store in Japan will hold collections of over 30 types of miso from around the country. Samples can be tried before purchasing by weight.
only eat rice miso that had been made using expensive polished white rice. It was often so expensive that it was used as gifts, or even as currency. Peasants and farm hands were forbidden to use the rice they harvested to make their own miso, so used any broken rice, or other grains such as millet and barley. This explains why darker miso made from these grains has a reputation, even today, as ‘poor man’s miso’.
KEY Sweet White Rice Miso Red Rice Miso White Rice Miso Barley Miso Soybean Miso
W H AT I S M I S O?
9
THE MANY TYPES OF MISO
Those new to miso are often surprised to learn that there are near-infinite types, just as there are countless varieties of wines or cheeses. If you adjust the ratio of soy to grain to salt, the environment, the length of fermentation, or the grains chosen, a different type of miso results. A wide range of flavours – from mild to pungent – and textures – from smooth to chunky – can result. As you might imagine, I have a rather large collection of miso amassed in my cupboards and fridge. In fact, it’s a wonder that I have room for anything else! If you are thinking of starting to cook with miso regularly, the red and white rice-based miso pastes are the most common in the recipes in this book, followed by sweet white miso, with hatcho and barley miso also making appearances. I would recommend starting with the more common rice misos, then adding more specialist types as you become more familiar. There are so many different ways to categorise miso; for simplicity’s sake, I describe them here by the ingredients they contain and the length of fermentation. RICE MISO (KOME MISO) Rice miso is the most common type in Japan, making up more than eighty per cent of the miso produced. It is made from rice, soybeans and a bacterial culture, steamed or boiled together and then mashed. Salt is added and the mixture is left to ferment for six to twelve months. Broadly speaking, a six-month rice miso is called ‘shiro miso’ (white miso) and a twelve-month rice miso is called ‘aka
12
T H E M A N Y T Y P ES O F M I S O
miso’ (red miso). Typically, white rice misos contain between five and six per cent salt and red rice misos ten to twelve per cent. And as for the use of the words ‘white’ and ‘red’ to describe them, I can only apologise. You would be forgiven for any confusion! ‘White’ miso is actually the colour of wet sand, while ‘red’ miso has a deep caramel colour… plus, they all vary slightly in colour anyway, as natural products do. White miso is mild in flavour, with gentle sweet and salty tones, while red miso has a much sharper tang with a far more pungent aftertaste. A third type of rice miso – sweet white miso – is traditionally made in Kyoto, Japan’s ancient capital and considered to be the most prestigious place to make refined miso. Saikyo miso, the most famous type, has a salt content of only five per cent and is the sweetest and lightest of the white misos. It is made with a large proportion of rice, a smaller proportion of soy beans and a weaker brine, giving a much more delicate flavour. I remember my first visit to a Saikyo miso factory and tasting it for the first time freshly harvested, still warm. It tasted like warm custard-flavoured cookie dough. As it is fermented for such a short time, just as with soft cheeses, it’s a lot less stable and is best kept in the fridge to maintain its delicate flavours. It is very soft and pliable. In recent years, interest in miso as a health product has gathered momentum and encouraged Japanese miso makers to begin making brown rice miso (genmai miso). This has a deep, complex flavour, closer to barley miso and with more nutrients than traditional white rice miso.
Sweet white Saikyo rice miso
Red miso
White miso
Pure soybean Hatcho miso
Barley miso
THE MANY TYPES OF MISO
Those new to miso are often surprised to learn that there are near-infinite types, just as there are countless varieties of wines or cheeses. If you adjust the ratio of soy to grain to salt, the environment, the length of fermentation, or the grains chosen, a different type of miso results. A wide range of flavours – from mild to pungent – and textures – from smooth to chunky – can result. As you might imagine, I have a rather large collection of miso amassed in my cupboards and fridge. In fact, it’s a wonder that I have room for anything else! If you are thinking of starting to cook with miso regularly, the red and white rice-based miso pastes are the most common in the recipes in this book, followed by sweet white miso, with hatcho and barley miso also making appearances. I would recommend starting with the more common rice misos, then adding more specialist types as you become more familiar. There are so many different ways to categorise miso; for simplicity’s sake, I describe them here by the ingredients they contain and the length of fermentation. RICE MISO (KOME MISO) Rice miso is the most common type in Japan, making up more than eighty per cent of the miso produced. It is made from rice, soybeans and a bacterial culture, steamed or boiled together and then mashed. Salt is added and the mixture is left to ferment for six to twelve months. Broadly speaking, a six-month rice miso is called ‘shiro miso’ (white miso) and a twelve-month rice miso is called ‘aka
12
T H E M A N Y T Y P ES O F M I S O
miso’ (red miso). Typically, white rice misos contain between five and six per cent salt and red rice misos ten to twelve per cent. And as for the use of the words ‘white’ and ‘red’ to describe them, I can only apologise. You would be forgiven for any confusion! ‘White’ miso is actually the colour of wet sand, while ‘red’ miso has a deep caramel colour… plus, they all vary slightly in colour anyway, as natural products do. White miso is mild in flavour, with gentle sweet and salty tones, while red miso has a much sharper tang with a far more pungent aftertaste. A third type of rice miso – sweet white miso – is traditionally made in Kyoto, Japan’s ancient capital and considered to be the most prestigious place to make refined miso. Saikyo miso, the most famous type, has a salt content of only five per cent and is the sweetest and lightest of the white misos. It is made with a large proportion of rice, a smaller proportion of soy beans and a weaker brine, giving a much more delicate flavour. I remember my first visit to a Saikyo miso factory and tasting it for the first time freshly harvested, still warm. It tasted like warm custard-flavoured cookie dough. As it is fermented for such a short time, just as with soft cheeses, it’s a lot less stable and is best kept in the fridge to maintain its delicate flavours. It is very soft and pliable. In recent years, interest in miso as a health product has gathered momentum and encouraged Japanese miso makers to begin making brown rice miso (genmai miso). This has a deep, complex flavour, closer to barley miso and with more nutrients than traditional white rice miso.
Sweet white Saikyo rice miso
Red miso
White miso
Pure soybean Hatcho miso
Barley miso
Classic miso soup with wakame & tofu
If you have tried miso soup, chances are that it was this one. Its beauty lies in the contrasting colours and textures: pristine white tofu cubes floating to the surface of a sandy, cloudy broth, lined with crunchy curls of seaweed and sprinkled lightly with aromatic spring onions. The clean, light flavours of the toppings ensure that the unique sweet and savoury flavours of the miso remain centre-stage in this ancient superfood dish.
Serves 4 as a snack, starter or side dish. 2 tbsp dried wakame seaweed 1 litre/1¾ pints/4 cups Dashi (p.33) 200 g/7 oz/¾ cup fresh firm tofu, cut into 1 cm (½ in) cubes 2 tbsp white miso
Put the wakame in a small bowl, cover with cold water, and leave it for 5 minutes until it has fully expanded.
2 spring onions (scallions), finely chopped
Make the dashi and heat until it reaches a rolling boil. Add the tofu and cook for 1 minute before adding the rehydrated seaweed.
TIP To preserve the flavours and nutrients of miso, it is best not to cook it on the boil. Always add it at the end of the dish, at a low simmer, or with the heat turned off.
The last stage is to add the miso paste, but it is important that the miso is not boiled. Reduce the heat so the dashi simmers. Place both types of miso in a ladle or strainer. Dip the ladle/strainer into the pot so the dashi seeps in, but the miso does not escape into the pot.
3 tbsp red miso
36
MISO SOUPS
Slowly loosen up the miso with a spoon inside the ladle/strainer as the dashi mixes with it; the paste will slowly melt into the dashi. Once all the miso is dissolved into the soup, turn off the heat immediately. Sprinkle with the chopped spring onions to add colour and fragrance.
Classic miso soup with wakame & tofu
If you have tried miso soup, chances are that it was this one. Its beauty lies in the contrasting colours and textures: pristine white tofu cubes floating to the surface of a sandy, cloudy broth, lined with crunchy curls of seaweed and sprinkled lightly with aromatic spring onions. The clean, light flavours of the toppings ensure that the unique sweet and savoury flavours of the miso remain centre-stage in this ancient superfood dish.
Serves 4 as a snack, starter or side dish. 2 tbsp dried wakame seaweed 1 litre/1¾ pints/4 cups Dashi (p.33) 200 g/7 oz/¾ cup fresh firm tofu, cut into 1 cm (½ in) cubes 2 tbsp white miso
Put the wakame in a small bowl, cover with cold water, and leave it for 5 minutes until it has fully expanded.
2 spring onions (scallions), finely chopped
Make the dashi and heat until it reaches a rolling boil. Add the tofu and cook for 1 minute before adding the rehydrated seaweed.
TIP To preserve the flavours and nutrients of miso, it is best not to cook it on the boil. Always add it at the end of the dish, at a low simmer, or with the heat turned off.
The last stage is to add the miso paste, but it is important that the miso is not boiled. Reduce the heat so the dashi simmers. Place both types of miso in a ladle or strainer. Dip the ladle/strainer into the pot so the dashi seeps in, but the miso does not escape into the pot.
3 tbsp red miso
36
MISO SOUPS
Slowly loosen up the miso with a spoon inside the ladle/strainer as the dashi mixes with it; the paste will slowly melt into the dashi. Once all the miso is dissolved into the soup, turn off the heat immediately. Sprinkle with the chopped spring onions to add colour and fragrance.
Udon Noodle Soup with Miso Pork Topping (Buta-miso udon)
This super-versatile porky miso sauce is really addictive, it’s like the bolognese of Japan. Fatty and full of flavour, it can go on top of almost anything! To add a bit of texture, I like to add finely chopped daikon. In this dish, fattier pork shoulder is much better than lean pork, for added mouth feel. This recipe makes more than you will need, but it freezes well and is fantastic on top of rice, stir-fried with greens, or as a snack with cucumber batons.
Serves 4 500 g/1 lb 2 oz/2 cups boneless pork shoulder 4 tbsp sake 2 tbsp hatcho (pure soybean) miso 1 tbsp red miso 1 tbsp mirin
First mince (grind) the pork shoulder, either with a food processor or by hand; the latter gives a much more textured finish. Place the meat in a bowl with 1 tbsp of the sake and mix well.
2 tbsp brown sugar a little olive oil 3 spring onions (scallions), finely chopped 50 g/1¾ oz/¹ ⁄³ cup daikon, finely chopped, plus 1 tbsp grated daikon 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tbsp peeled and grated root ginger 200 g/7 oz/¾ cup dried udon noodles (or 4 packs of frozen udon) 1 litre/1¾ pints/4 cups Dashi (p.33)
TIP The pork sauce keeps for a week in the fridge, or you can portion it up and freeze.
56
MISO SOUPS
Pour the rest of the sake into a small mixing bowl with both types of miso, the mirin and brown sugar, and give it a good mix until the sauce is smooth. Add the oil to a frying pan and, once hot, add 2 of the spring onions, the daikon and garlic for 30 seconds. Add the pork and stir until it is no longer pink; this takes about 3 minutes. Add the miso mixture to the pan and stir for a further 2 minutes before adding the ginger. Let cool to room temperature.
In a large saucepan, cook the udon noodles with the dashi according to the packet instructions. Drain, reserving the dashi, and cool the noodles under cold water to stop them cooking further, then divide between 4 warm bowls. Skim off any impurities from the dashi, then return to the boil and pour over the noodles. Add 3 tbsp of the miso pork topping to each bowl. Sprinkle each with grated daikon and about 1 tsp of the remaining spring onions.
Udon Noodle Soup with Miso Pork Topping (Buta-miso udon)
This super-versatile porky miso sauce is really addictive, it’s like the bolognese of Japan. Fatty and full of flavour, it can go on top of almost anything! To add a bit of texture, I like to add finely chopped daikon. In this dish, fattier pork shoulder is much better than lean pork, for added mouth feel. This recipe makes more than you will need, but it freezes well and is fantastic on top of rice, stir-fried with greens, or as a snack with cucumber batons.
Serves 4 500 g/1 lb 2 oz/2 cups boneless pork shoulder 4 tbsp sake 2 tbsp hatcho (pure soybean) miso 1 tbsp red miso 1 tbsp mirin
First mince (grind) the pork shoulder, either with a food processor or by hand; the latter gives a much more textured finish. Place the meat in a bowl with 1 tbsp of the sake and mix well.
2 tbsp brown sugar a little olive oil 3 spring onions (scallions), finely chopped 50 g/1¾ oz/¹ ⁄³ cup daikon, finely chopped, plus 1 tbsp grated daikon 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tbsp peeled and grated root ginger 200 g/7 oz/¾ cup dried udon noodles (or 4 packs of frozen udon) 1 litre/1¾ pints/4 cups Dashi (p.33)
TIP The pork sauce keeps for a week in the fridge, or you can portion it up and freeze.
56
MISO SOUPS
Pour the rest of the sake into a small mixing bowl with both types of miso, the mirin and brown sugar, and give it a good mix until the sauce is smooth. Add the oil to a frying pan and, once hot, add 2 of the spring onions, the daikon and garlic for 30 seconds. Add the pork and stir until it is no longer pink; this takes about 3 minutes. Add the miso mixture to the pan and stir for a further 2 minutes before adding the ginger. Let cool to room temperature.
In a large saucepan, cook the udon noodles with the dashi according to the packet instructions. Drain, reserving the dashi, and cool the noodles under cold water to stop them cooking further, then divide between 4 warm bowls. Skim off any impurities from the dashi, then return to the boil and pour over the noodles. Add 3 tbsp of the miso pork topping to each bowl. Sprinkle each with grated daikon and about 1 tsp of the remaining spring onions.
Miso & Coconut Butter Breakfast Spread
An umami-rich breakfast treat with complex sweet and salty flavours in every mouthful. If you enjoy Marmite, you will adore this. I love a sweet breakfast; my toast is always generously slathered with salted butter and honey or chunky marmalade. This miso and coconut butter breakfast spread has the savoury qualities and texture of a peanut butter… but also the sweetness of a French pastry. A piece of toasted sourdough bread is the perfect partner for this spread.
Makes 1 log of miso butter 150 g/5½ oz/½ cup white miso 200 g/7 oz/1 cup coconut butter 2 tsp honey, or to taste
Place the miso paste and coconut butter in a large mixing bowl and, with a wooden spoon, beat the mixture until smooth. This should take about 5 minutes. Gradually drizzle on the honey, until it is sweet enough to your taste. Lay out a large piece of cling film in a 50 cm square. Pour the mixture on to the cling film, wrap securely in a log shape and refrigerate for at least 2 hours to firm up. It will keep here for up to 3 weeks, or wrap it well again and freeze for up to 3 months.
64
M I S O I N S P R E A DS & D I P S
Spread in a thin layer over toasted sourdough bread for a delicious sweet-savoury breakfast, or spread it on rice crackers as a snack. It’s even worth trying it on vegetables or over hot noodles for an extra umami kick.
Miso & Coconut Butter Breakfast Spread
An umami-rich breakfast treat with complex sweet and salty flavours in every mouthful. If you enjoy Marmite, you will adore this. I love a sweet breakfast; my toast is always generously slathered with salted butter and honey or chunky marmalade. This miso and coconut butter breakfast spread has the savoury qualities and texture of a peanut butter… but also the sweetness of a French pastry. A piece of toasted sourdough bread is the perfect partner for this spread.
Makes 1 log of miso butter 150 g/5½ oz/½ cup white miso 200 g/7 oz/1 cup coconut butter 2 tsp honey, or to taste
Place the miso paste and coconut butter in a large mixing bowl and, with a wooden spoon, beat the mixture until smooth. This should take about 5 minutes. Gradually drizzle on the honey, until it is sweet enough to your taste. Lay out a large piece of cling film in a 50 cm square. Pour the mixture on to the cling film, wrap securely in a log shape and refrigerate for at least 2 hours to firm up. It will keep here for up to 3 weeks, or wrap it well again and freeze for up to 3 months.
64
M I S O I N S P R E A DS & D I P S
Spread in a thin layer over toasted sourdough bread for a delicious sweet-savoury breakfast, or spread it on rice crackers as a snack. It’s even worth trying it on vegetables or over hot noodles for an extra umami kick.
Creamy Tahini Miso Slaw
If you like coleslaw, you’re going to love this. By replacing the mayonnaise with a tangy, savoury miso dressing, you achieve a much more balanced dish that is deeply moreish, not sickly sweet as are some traditional coleslaws. As you’d expect, it’s great served at a barbecue. The key to getting this dish right is in cutting the cabbage and carrots into thin julienne. If the vegetables are cut too thickly, they don’t absorb the dressing so well.
Serves 4–6 as a side dish 250 g/9 oz/2½ cups white cabbage, shredded into long strips 150 g/5½ oz/1½ cups red cabbage, shredded into long strips 150 g/5½ oz/1¹ ⁄³ cups carrot, julienned into 5 cm (2 in) strands 1 eating apple, grated 3 tbsp white miso juice of 1 lemon 1 tsp peeled and grated root ginger 1 tsp caster (superfine) sugar 3 tbsp tahini 2 tbsp natural yogurt 1 tbsp olive oil 2 spring onions (scallions), finely chopped
76
M I S O D R ESS I N GS & SAU C ES
Mix both types of cabbage, the carrot and apple in a large bowl and toss together with your hands. In a small bowl, mix the miso with the lemon juice and stir until smooth. Add the ginger, sugar and tahini and mix again. Finally stir in the yogurt and olive oil with the spring onions.
Pour the dressing over the vegetables and mix thoroughly. Leave to rest for 20 minutes before serving. This keeps for 2 days, covered, in the fridge. Stir it before serving.
Creamy Tahini Miso Slaw
If you like coleslaw, you’re going to love this. By replacing the mayonnaise with a tangy, savoury miso dressing, you achieve a much more balanced dish that is deeply moreish, not sickly sweet as are some traditional coleslaws. As you’d expect, it’s great served at a barbecue. The key to getting this dish right is in cutting the cabbage and carrots into thin julienne. If the vegetables are cut too thickly, they don’t absorb the dressing so well.
Serves 4–6 as a side dish 250 g/9 oz/2½ cups white cabbage, shredded into long strips 150 g/5½ oz/1½ cups red cabbage, shredded into long strips 150 g/5½ oz/1¹ ⁄³ cups carrot, julienned into 5 cm (2 in) strands 1 eating apple, grated 3 tbsp white miso juice of 1 lemon 1 tsp peeled and grated root ginger 1 tsp caster (superfine) sugar 3 tbsp tahini 2 tbsp natural yogurt 1 tbsp olive oil 2 spring onions (scallions), finely chopped
76
M I S O D R ESS I N GS & SAU C ES
Mix both types of cabbage, the carrot and apple in a large bowl and toss together with your hands. In a small bowl, mix the miso with the lemon juice and stir until smooth. Add the ginger, sugar and tahini and mix again. Finally stir in the yogurt and olive oil with the spring onions.
Pour the dressing over the vegetables and mix thoroughly. Leave to rest for 20 minutes before serving. This keeps for 2 days, covered, in the fridge. Stir it before serving.
Sweet White Miso grilled Aubergine (Nasu Dengaku)
I’ve never met anyone who has not loved this deeply satisfying vegetarian dish, so it is a recipe you will quickly rely on. Most Japanese restaurants offer a version. Serve with lightly grilled fish and steamed rice to appreciate all the subtle flavours. Saikyo miso is the sweetest of all misos, and has a lovely custardy flavour that works in harmony with the creamy aubergine (eggplant) flesh. If you cannot get hold of it, use half the amount of white miso paste instead and add 1 tbsp of sugar for every 100 g/3½ oz/¹⁄³ cup of miso.
Serves 4 as a side dish, or 2 as a main 1 egg yolk 1½ tbsp caster (superfine) sugar 250 g/9 oz/scant 1 cup Saikyo sweet white miso 1½ tbsp mirin 1½ tbsp sake ½ tsp finely grated unwaxed lemon zest 2 large fleshy aubergines (eggplants) a little rapeseed or other flavourless oil 2 tsp sesame seeds
TIP If you have any leftover sauce, it’s great with grilled tofu, too. It will keep for a week, covered, in the fridge.
82
M I S O D R ESS I N GS & SAU C ES
Whisk the egg yolk and sugar together in a large heatproof bowl, then add the miso and continue whisking until you have a thick sauce. Add the mirin and sake and whisk again. Now place the bowl over a pan of boiling water and cook it slowly, stirring every minute; it will thicken slowly. After 5 minutes, the sauce will be like a thick custard that coats the back of a spoon. Leave to cool. Add the lemon zest; it will cut through and create some balance to the richness. Now for the aubergines: split them in half lengthways and score the flesh with a sharp knife, drizzle with
rapeseed oil and shallow-fry on both sides until cooked. Don’t be alarmed by the amount of oil aubergines absorb; in my opinion, all great aubergine recipes need plenty! Allow the aubergines to cool for a few minutes while you preheat the grill to medium. Smooth the miso mix on to the flesh side of the aubergines with the back of a spoon. Sprinkle the sesame seeds on top, then grill for 2–3 minutes. Keep an eye on them; they burn very quickly!
Sweet White Miso grilled Aubergine (Nasu Dengaku)
I’ve never met anyone who has not loved this deeply satisfying vegetarian dish, so it is a recipe you will quickly rely on. Most Japanese restaurants offer a version. Serve with lightly grilled fish and steamed rice to appreciate all the subtle flavours. Saikyo miso is the sweetest of all misos, and has a lovely custardy flavour that works in harmony with the creamy aubergine (eggplant) flesh. If you cannot get hold of it, use half the amount of white miso paste instead and add 1 tbsp of sugar for every 100 g/3½ oz/¹⁄³ cup of miso.
Serves 4 as a side dish, or 2 as a main 1 egg yolk 1½ tbsp caster (superfine) sugar 250 g/9 oz/scant 1 cup Saikyo sweet white miso 1½ tbsp mirin 1½ tbsp sake ½ tsp finely grated unwaxed lemon zest 2 large fleshy aubergines (eggplants) a little rapeseed or other flavourless oil 2 tsp sesame seeds
TIP If you have any leftover sauce, it’s great with grilled tofu, too. It will keep for a week, covered, in the fridge.
82
M I S O D R ESS I N GS & SAU C ES
Whisk the egg yolk and sugar together in a large heatproof bowl, then add the miso and continue whisking until you have a thick sauce. Add the mirin and sake and whisk again. Now place the bowl over a pan of boiling water and cook it slowly, stirring every minute; it will thicken slowly. After 5 minutes, the sauce will be like a thick custard that coats the back of a spoon. Leave to cool. Add the lemon zest; it will cut through and create some balance to the richness. Now for the aubergines: split them in half lengthways and score the flesh with a sharp knife, drizzle with
rapeseed oil and shallow-fry on both sides until cooked. Don’t be alarmed by the amount of oil aubergines absorb; in my opinion, all great aubergine recipes need plenty! Allow the aubergines to cool for a few minutes while you preheat the grill to medium. Smooth the miso mix on to the flesh side of the aubergines with the back of a spoon. Sprinkle the sesame seeds on top, then grill for 2–3 minutes. Keep an eye on them; they burn very quickly!
Lemon Miso Chicken Hot Pot with Parsley
This is so incredibly quick and easy, that it has become one of my favourite after-work meals. The lemon and herbs cut through the juicy chicken thighs and savoury miso, while the rich, creamy sauce is irresistible poured over warm rice. Sweet root vegetables work a treat here as the supportive bed for the chicken to steam on inside the casserole pot. Stir-fried Savoy cabbage with olive oil and a few drops of soy sauce is fantastic on the side.
Serves 4 For the chicken and marinade 6 skin-on bone-in chicken thighs and 4 chicken drumsticks 2 tbsp sake
Put the chicken in a medium bowl. Pour the sake and sesame oil over with a pinch of salt. Rub it all over the chicken, then leave for 15 minutes.
1 tbsp sesame oil salt 3 tbsp white miso 2 tbsp red miso 3 tbsp lemon juice (keep the squeezed lemon) 1 tbsp finely grated unwaxed lemon zest 1 tbsp mirin 1 tsp yuzu For the rest 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 small onion, finely chopped
In a small mixing bowl, combine all the other ingredients to make a smooth marinade, then pour over the chicken and rub again. In a heavy-based casserole pan, cook the garlic, onion, parsnips and carrots for 5 minutes in the olive oil until golden. In a frying pan, sear the chicken pieces for 3–4 minutes so the skin becomes golden brown, charred in
places and crispy on each side. Add the chicken to the casserole, sitting it on top of the vegetables. Keep all the leftover marinade from the bowl the chicken was marinading in and swirl 200 ml/7 fl oz/ž cup of water around in it until the bowl is clean of miso. Add it to the pot. Slice the lemon that had been squeezed in half and throw into the pot with the parsley. Reduce the heat, cover and cook for 25 minutes.
2 parsnips, peeled and sliced into wedges 2 small carrots, peeled and chopped into wedges a little olive oil 2 tbsp chopped parsley leaves
M I S O M A R I N A D ES & P I C K L ES
107
Lemon Miso Chicken Hot Pot with Parsley
This is so incredibly quick and easy, that it has become one of my favourite after-work meals. The lemon and herbs cut through the juicy chicken thighs and savoury miso, while the rich, creamy sauce is irresistible poured over warm rice. Sweet root vegetables work a treat here as the supportive bed for the chicken to steam on inside the casserole pot. Stir-fried Savoy cabbage with olive oil and a few drops of soy sauce is fantastic on the side.
Serves 4 For the chicken and marinade 6 skin-on bone-in chicken thighs and 4 chicken drumsticks 2 tbsp sake
Put the chicken in a medium bowl. Pour the sake and sesame oil over with a pinch of salt. Rub it all over the chicken, then leave for 15 minutes.
1 tbsp sesame oil salt 3 tbsp white miso 2 tbsp red miso 3 tbsp lemon juice (keep the squeezed lemon) 1 tbsp finely grated unwaxed lemon zest 1 tbsp mirin 1 tsp yuzu For the rest 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 small onion, finely chopped
In a small mixing bowl, combine all the other ingredients to make a smooth marinade, then pour over the chicken and rub again. In a heavy-based casserole pan, cook the garlic, onion, parsnips and carrots for 5 minutes in the olive oil until golden. In a frying pan, sear the chicken pieces for 3–4 minutes so the skin becomes golden brown, charred in
places and crispy on each side. Add the chicken to the casserole, sitting it on top of the vegetables. Keep all the leftover marinade from the bowl the chicken was marinading in and swirl 200 ml/7 fl oz/ž cup of water around in it until the bowl is clean of miso. Add it to the pot. Slice the lemon that had been squeezed in half and throw into the pot with the parsley. Reduce the heat, cover and cook for 25 minutes.
2 parsnips, peeled and sliced into wedges 2 small carrots, peeled and chopped into wedges a little olive oil 2 tbsp chopped parsley leaves
M I S O M A R I N A D ES & P I C K L ES
107
White Miso Ice Cream with Hazelnut Praline
If, like me, you are a fan of salted-caramel-anything, then this ice cream is a game changer. Sweet and savoury in equal measure, I can get through an impressive amount in one sitting: pairing the miso ice cream with sweet praline is a winning formula. If there were such a thing as a desert island dessert, this would be it.
Serves 6 For the ice cream 250 ml/9 fl oz/1 cup whole milk 100 g/3½ oz/½ cup caster (superfine) sugar 400 ml/14 fl oz/1² ⁄³ cups double (heavy) cream 5 organic egg yolks 75 g/2¾ oz/¼ cup white miso
Heat the milk and sugar in a heavybased saucepan, stirring to help the sugar dissolve. Make an ice bath by putting a large 2-litre (3½-pint) metal or plastic bowl in a larger bowl partially filled with icy water. Place a sieve above the bowl and pour in the cream.
For the praline a little flavourless oil 125 g/4½ oz/² ⁄³ cup golden caster (superfine) sugar 125 g/4½ oz/1 cup hazelnuts
TIP For an even naughtier treat, blitz this into a smooth and creamy milkshake with a bit of soy milk!
126
M I S O I N D ESS ER T S & S W EE T S
In a different bowl, whisk the egg yolks and miso together until smooth. Now slowly pour the warm milk mixture on to the yolks, whisking all the time. Scrape the mixture back into the saucepan and cook over a very low heat, stirring constantly with a spatula until the custard is thick enough to coat it. Strain the custard through the sieve and into the double cream. Slowly stir over the ice until the custard is cooled, before refrigerating to completely chill it for a minimum of 3 hours.
Meanwhile, make the praline: lightly oil a baking sheet. In a dry, heavybased saucepan, cook the sugar over medium heat, stirring with a fork until it is all melted, then slowly cook without stirring until it is a golden caramel colour. Swirl the pan to keep it moving, then add the hazelnuts. Immediately pour the mixture on to the prepared baking sheet and let it cool completely; this should take about 30 minutes. Break it into small pieces. Once the ice cream and praline are thoroughly cooled, put the ice cream in an ice-cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer’s instructions, adding the praline right at the end of churning, so it stays in lovely chunks.
White Miso Ice Cream with Hazelnut Praline
If, like me, you are a fan of salted-caramel-anything, then this ice cream is a game changer. Sweet and savoury in equal measure, I can get through an impressive amount in one sitting: pairing the miso ice cream with sweet praline is a winning formula. If there were such a thing as a desert island dessert, this would be it.
Serves 6 For the ice cream 250 ml/9 fl oz/1 cup whole milk 100 g/3½ oz/½ cup caster (superfine) sugar 400 ml/14 fl oz/1² ⁄³ cups double (heavy) cream 5 organic egg yolks 75 g/2¾ oz/¼ cup white miso
Heat the milk and sugar in a heavybased saucepan, stirring to help the sugar dissolve. Make an ice bath by putting a large 2-litre (3½-pint) metal or plastic bowl in a larger bowl partially filled with icy water. Place a sieve above the bowl and pour in the cream.
For the praline a little flavourless oil 125 g/4½ oz/² ⁄³ cup golden caster (superfine) sugar 125 g/4½ oz/1 cup hazelnuts
TIP For an even naughtier treat, blitz this into a smooth and creamy milkshake with a bit of soy milk!
126
M I S O I N D ESS ER T S & S W EE T S
In a different bowl, whisk the egg yolks and miso together until smooth. Now slowly pour the warm milk mixture on to the yolks, whisking all the time. Scrape the mixture back into the saucepan and cook over a very low heat, stirring constantly with a spatula until the custard is thick enough to coat it. Strain the custard through the sieve and into the double cream. Slowly stir over the ice until the custard is cooled, before refrigerating to completely chill it for a minimum of 3 hours.
Meanwhile, make the praline: lightly oil a baking sheet. In a dry, heavybased saucepan, cook the sugar over medium heat, stirring with a fork until it is all melted, then slowly cook without stirring until it is a golden caramel colour. Swirl the pan to keep it moving, then add the hazelnuts. Immediately pour the mixture on to the prepared baking sheet and let it cool completely; this should take about 30 minutes. Break it into small pieces. Once the ice cream and praline are thoroughly cooled, put the ice cream in an ice-cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer’s instructions, adding the praline right at the end of churning, so it stays in lovely chunks.
index
almond & sweet white miso cake 136 asparagus: steamed asparagus & poached eggs with miso hollandaise 88 aubergines: spicy fried red miso aubergine 93 sweet white miso grilled aubergine 82 banana bread, miso 137 barley miso 15 barley miso & honey roast vegetables 96 stem ginger & barley miso cheesecake 130 stir-fried kale with barley miso & chilli 97 wild mushroom & barley miso soup 38 beef: black pepper & hatcho miso sirloin steaks 113 simmered miso beef & onion donburi 119 broccoli: chargrilled tenderstem broccoli with sesame miso dressing 94 brownies, dark miso fudge chocolate 135 butter: miso butter 86 miso chive butter 62 cakes: almond & sweet white miso cake 136 miso banana bread 137 caramel: miso caramel sauce 141 salty miso caramel tartlets 132 cauliflower, whole roasted spicy miso 104 cheese: tuna & miso cheese toastie 72 cheesecake, stem ginger & barley miso 130 142
INDEX
chicken: comforting chicken miso soup 46 honey & red miso chicken wings 110 lemon miso chicken hot pot 107 Sapporo miso ramen 54 the sumo wrestler’s hot pot 52 chilli, stir-fried kale with barley miso & 97 chive butter, miso 62 chocolate brownie, dark miso fudge 135 chowder, miso clam 43 clams: miso clam chowder 43 coconut butter: miso & coconut butter breakfast spread 64 coriander & yuzu miso dressing 81 crayfish: chilled miso soup with crayfish, cucumber & sesame 44 cucumber: chilled miso soup with crayfish, cucumber & sesame 44 miso pickled cucumber 120 roast duck & cucumber with sweet dark miso sauce 115 daikon: simmered daikon with miso mustard sauce 84 dashi 33 dips: citrussy yuzu miso dip 70 roast walnut sweet miso dip 68 donburi, simmered miso beef & onion 119 dressings: coriander & yuzu miso 81 roast walnut miso 78 sesame miso 94 duck: roast duck & cucumber with sweet dark miso sauce 115 eggs: leftovers egg drop & rice miso soup 41 miso-cured duck egg yolks 122 Sapporo miso ramen 54 steamed asparagus & poached eggs with miso hollandaise 88 the sumo wrestler’s hot pot 52
fish: grilled mackerel with orange miso sauce 108 grilled saikyo miso black cod 102 lime & miso glazed salmon 112 the sumo wrestler’s hot pot 52 fudge chocolate brownies, dark miso 135 ginger: braised miso & ginger pork ribs 90 stem ginger & barley miso cheesecake 130 whole roasted spicy miso cauliflower with ginger & lime 104 green bean salad, grilled 78 hatcho miso: black pepper & hatcho miso sirloin steaks 113 sweet hatcho miso & shiitake relish 66 hazelnut praline 126 hollandaise, miso 88 hot pots: lemon miso chicken 107 quick two-tofu & miso 53 the sumo wrestler’s 52 ice cream, white miso 126 kale: stir-fried kale with barley miso & chilli 97 kombu: dashi 33 Kyoto’s New Year miso soup 48 leeks: grilled tofu with leek miso sauce 98 leftovers egg drop & rice miso soup 41 lemons: lemon miso chicken hot pot 107 lemon miso syrup 138 limes: lime & miso glazed salmon 112 whole roasted spicy miso cauliflower with ginger & lime 104
mayonnaise, spicy miso 71 miso 8–9 benefits of 16–17 cooking with 26–8 how miso is made 10–11, 18 types of 12–15 mushrooms: stir-fried wild mushrooms in miso butter & black pepper sauce 86 the sumo wrestler’s hot pot 52 sweet hatcho miso & shiitake relish 66 wild mushroom & barley miso soup 38 mustard: honey mustard miso sauce 68 miso mustard sauce 84 noodles: chilled soba noodles 58 Sapporo miso ramen 54 udon noodle soup 56 Okinawan-style slow-braised miso pork belly 116 onions: simmered miso beef & onion donburi 119 orange miso sauce 108 pannacotta, red miso 140 pears: poached pears with lemon miso syrup 138 pickles: miso pickled cucumber 120 pine nuts: golden pine nut miso spread 70 plum sauce, sticky miso 90 popcorn, red miso sweet 128 pork: braised miso & ginger pork ribs 90 Okinawan-style slow-braised miso pork belly 116 slow-cooked pork & vegetable miso soup 40 24-hour miso-marinated pork shoulder steaks 118 udon noodle soup with miso pork topping 56 praline, hazelnut 126 pure soybean miso 15
ramen, Sapporo miso 54 relish, sweet hatcho miso & shiitake 66 rice: leftovers egg drop & rice miso soup 41 rice miso 12, 30–2 saikyo miso black cod, grilled 102 salads: baby plum tomato salad 81 creamy tahini miso slaw 76 grilled green bean salad 78 salty miso caramel tartlets 132 Sapporo miso ramen 54 sauces: honey mustard miso sauce 68 leek miso sauce 98 miso butter & black pepper sauce 86 miso caramel sauce 141 miso hollandaise 88 miso mustard sauce 84 orange miso sauce 108 spicy miso mayonnaise 71 sticky miso plum sauce 90 sweet dark miso sauce 115 sesame seeds: chilled miso soup with crayfish, cucumber & sesame 44 sesame miso dressing 94 shisho leaves, miso-cured duck egg yolks on 122 slaw, creamy tahini miso 76 soups: chilled miso soup 44 classic miso soup 36 comforting chicken miso soup 46 Kyoto’s New Year miso soup 48 leftovers egg drop & rice miso soup 41 miso clam chowder 43 puréed roast sweet potato & miso soup 47 quick two-tofu & miso hot pot 53 Sapporo miso ramen 54 slow-cooked pork & vegetable miso soup 40 the sumo wrestler’s hot pot 52 udon noodle soup with miso pork topping 56
spreads: golden pine nut miso spread 70 miso & coconut butter breakfast spread 64 the sumo wrestler’s hot pot 52 sweet potatoes: puréed roast sweet potato & miso soup 47 sweetcorn: miso chive butter with sweetcorn 62 Sapporo miso ramen 54 tahini: creamy tahini miso slaw 76 tartlets, salty miso caramel 132 toastie, tuna & miso cheese 72 tofu: classic miso soup with wakame & tofu 36 grilled tofu with leek miso sauce 98 Kyoto’s New Year miso soup 48 miso-cured tofu ‘cheese’ 123 quick two-tofu & miso hot pot 53 the sumo wrestler’s hot pot 52 tomatoes: baby plum tomato salad 81 tuna & miso cheese toastie 72 24-hour miso-marinated pork shoulder steaks 118 udon noodle soup 56 umami 25 vegetables: barley miso & honey roast vegetables 96 leftovers egg drop & rice miso soup 41 slow-cooked pork & vegetable miso soup 40 wakame: classic miso soup with wakame & tofu 36 walnuts: roast walnut miso dressing 78 roast walnut sweet miso dip 68 yuzu: citrussy yuzu miso dip 70 coriander & yuzu miso dressing 81
wild mushroom & barley miso soup 38 INDEX
143
index
almond & sweet white miso cake 136 asparagus: steamed asparagus & poached eggs with miso hollandaise 88 aubergines: spicy fried red miso aubergine 93 sweet white miso grilled aubergine 82 banana bread, miso 137 barley miso 15 barley miso & honey roast vegetables 96 stem ginger & barley miso cheesecake 130 stir-fried kale with barley miso & chilli 97 wild mushroom & barley miso soup 38 beef: black pepper & hatcho miso sirloin steaks 113 simmered miso beef & onion donburi 119 broccoli: chargrilled tenderstem broccoli with sesame miso dressing 94 brownies, dark miso fudge chocolate 135 butter: miso butter 86 miso chive butter 62 cakes: almond & sweet white miso cake 136 miso banana bread 137 caramel: miso caramel sauce 141 salty miso caramel tartlets 132 cauliflower, whole roasted spicy miso 104 cheese: tuna & miso cheese toastie 72 cheesecake, stem ginger & barley miso 130 142
INDEX
chicken: comforting chicken miso soup 46 honey & red miso chicken wings 110 lemon miso chicken hot pot 107 Sapporo miso ramen 54 the sumo wrestler’s hot pot 52 chilli, stir-fried kale with barley miso & 97 chive butter, miso 62 chocolate brownie, dark miso fudge 135 chowder, miso clam 43 clams: miso clam chowder 43 coconut butter: miso & coconut butter breakfast spread 64 coriander & yuzu miso dressing 81 crayfish: chilled miso soup with crayfish, cucumber & sesame 44 cucumber: chilled miso soup with crayfish, cucumber & sesame 44 miso pickled cucumber 120 roast duck & cucumber with sweet dark miso sauce 115 daikon: simmered daikon with miso mustard sauce 84 dashi 33 dips: citrussy yuzu miso dip 70 roast walnut sweet miso dip 68 donburi, simmered miso beef & onion 119 dressings: coriander & yuzu miso 81 roast walnut miso 78 sesame miso 94 duck: roast duck & cucumber with sweet dark miso sauce 115 eggs: leftovers egg drop & rice miso soup 41 miso-cured duck egg yolks 122 Sapporo miso ramen 54 steamed asparagus & poached eggs with miso hollandaise 88 the sumo wrestler’s hot pot 52
fish: grilled mackerel with orange miso sauce 108 grilled saikyo miso black cod 102 lime & miso glazed salmon 112 the sumo wrestler’s hot pot 52 fudge chocolate brownies, dark miso 135 ginger: braised miso & ginger pork ribs 90 stem ginger & barley miso cheesecake 130 whole roasted spicy miso cauliflower with ginger & lime 104 green bean salad, grilled 78 hatcho miso: black pepper & hatcho miso sirloin steaks 113 sweet hatcho miso & shiitake relish 66 hazelnut praline 126 hollandaise, miso 88 hot pots: lemon miso chicken 107 quick two-tofu & miso 53 the sumo wrestler’s 52 ice cream, white miso 126 kale: stir-fried kale with barley miso & chilli 97 kombu: dashi 33 Kyoto’s New Year miso soup 48 leeks: grilled tofu with leek miso sauce 98 leftovers egg drop & rice miso soup 41 lemons: lemon miso chicken hot pot 107 lemon miso syrup 138 limes: lime & miso glazed salmon 112 whole roasted spicy miso cauliflower with ginger & lime 104
mayonnaise, spicy miso 71 miso 8–9 benefits of 16–17 cooking with 26–8 how miso is made 10–11, 18 types of 12–15 mushrooms: stir-fried wild mushrooms in miso butter & black pepper sauce 86 the sumo wrestler’s hot pot 52 sweet hatcho miso & shiitake relish 66 wild mushroom & barley miso soup 38 mustard: honey mustard miso sauce 68 miso mustard sauce 84 noodles: chilled soba noodles 58 Sapporo miso ramen 54 udon noodle soup 56 Okinawan-style slow-braised miso pork belly 116 onions: simmered miso beef & onion donburi 119 orange miso sauce 108 pannacotta, red miso 140 pears: poached pears with lemon miso syrup 138 pickles: miso pickled cucumber 120 pine nuts: golden pine nut miso spread 70 plum sauce, sticky miso 90 popcorn, red miso sweet 128 pork: braised miso & ginger pork ribs 90 Okinawan-style slow-braised miso pork belly 116 slow-cooked pork & vegetable miso soup 40 24-hour miso-marinated pork shoulder steaks 118 udon noodle soup with miso pork topping 56 praline, hazelnut 126 pure soybean miso 15
ramen, Sapporo miso 54 relish, sweet hatcho miso & shiitake 66 rice: leftovers egg drop & rice miso soup 41 rice miso 12, 30–2 saikyo miso black cod, grilled 102 salads: baby plum tomato salad 81 creamy tahini miso slaw 76 grilled green bean salad 78 salty miso caramel tartlets 132 Sapporo miso ramen 54 sauces: honey mustard miso sauce 68 leek miso sauce 98 miso butter & black pepper sauce 86 miso caramel sauce 141 miso hollandaise 88 miso mustard sauce 84 orange miso sauce 108 spicy miso mayonnaise 71 sticky miso plum sauce 90 sweet dark miso sauce 115 sesame seeds: chilled miso soup with crayfish, cucumber & sesame 44 sesame miso dressing 94 shisho leaves, miso-cured duck egg yolks on 122 slaw, creamy tahini miso 76 soups: chilled miso soup 44 classic miso soup 36 comforting chicken miso soup 46 Kyoto’s New Year miso soup 48 leftovers egg drop & rice miso soup 41 miso clam chowder 43 puréed roast sweet potato & miso soup 47 quick two-tofu & miso hot pot 53 Sapporo miso ramen 54 slow-cooked pork & vegetable miso soup 40 the sumo wrestler’s hot pot 52 udon noodle soup with miso pork topping 56
spreads: golden pine nut miso spread 70 miso & coconut butter breakfast spread 64 the sumo wrestler’s hot pot 52 sweet potatoes: puréed roast sweet potato & miso soup 47 sweetcorn: miso chive butter with sweetcorn 62 Sapporo miso ramen 54 tahini: creamy tahini miso slaw 76 tartlets, salty miso caramel 132 toastie, tuna & miso cheese 72 tofu: classic miso soup with wakame & tofu 36 grilled tofu with leek miso sauce 98 Kyoto’s New Year miso soup 48 miso-cured tofu ‘cheese’ 123 quick two-tofu & miso hot pot 53 the sumo wrestler’s hot pot 52 tomatoes: baby plum tomato salad 81 tuna & miso cheese toastie 72 24-hour miso-marinated pork shoulder steaks 118 udon noodle soup 56 umami 25 vegetables: barley miso & honey roast vegetables 96 leftovers egg drop & rice miso soup 41 slow-cooked pork & vegetable miso soup 40 wakame: classic miso soup with wakame & tofu 36 walnuts: roast walnut miso dressing 78 roast walnut sweet miso dip 68 yuzu: citrussy yuzu miso dip 70 coriander & yuzu miso dressing 81
wild mushroom & barley miso soup 38 INDEX
143
BONNIE CHUNG OF MISO TASTY
Bonnie Chung, is the founder of Miso T the UK’s first brand dedicated to miso.
An award-winning entrepreneur, former blogger and supper-club host, Bonnie h been dedicated to the research of miso the last 5 years.
Miso Tasty’s products, now available fro over 1000 stores in the UK from Sainsbu to Selfridges, have been featured in The Sunday Times, The Guardian, Daily Telegraph, The Sun, Daily Mail, Olive, R online and Wallpaper* magazine, amon others.
Bonnie’s to dedicated this ancient ingredient inspired her to Bonnie Chung, is the founder of Miso passion Tasty, theand UK’sdevotion first brand to miso.
travel the lengths of Japan, tasting her way through thousands of differe
An award-winning entrepreneur, food The blogger and- supper-club host,promotes Bonnie hasthe eating and miso former by region. result a business that been dedicated to the research of miso for the last 5 years.
understanding of miso outside of Japan; educating the UK on the many regional from varieties, flavours andinhealth of this ancient superfood Miso Tasty’s products, now available over 1000 stores the UKbenefits from Sainsburys to
Selfridges, have been featured in The Sunday Times, The Guardian, Daily Telegraph, The Sun, Daily Mail, Olive, Red online and Wallpaper* magazine amongstran others. Prior to setting up Miso Tasty,, Bonnie one of London’s first supper-c
where she showcased her love for Japanese food. She also worked as a
Bonnie’s passion and devotion to this ancient ingredient inspired her to travel the lengths of private chef where she developed her knowledge passion for this u Japan, tasting her way through thousands of different miso by region. The result and - a busiingredient. ness that promotes the eating and understanding of miso outside of Japan; educating the UK on the many regional varieties, flavours and health benefits of this ancient superfood.
In November 2015 Bonnie was named as one of The Grocer’s Top New
Prior to setting up Miso Tasty, Bonnie ran one of London’s first supper-clubs where she Talents, this esteemed title is awarded to young, rising stars in the food showcased her love for Japanese food. She also worked as a private chef where she develmanufacturing arena: “Under her whirlwind of energy, is the most patien oped her knowledge and passion for this unique ingredient.
charismatic character.”
In November 2015 Bonnie was named as one of The Grocer’s Top New Talents, this esteemed title is awarded to young, rising stars in the food and manufacturing arena: “Under her whirlwind of energy, is the most patient and charismatic character.”
The Miso Tasty cookbook explores the great versatility of miso, and demonstrates the depth that it can bring to everyday cooking. Miso is full of possibilities, not just for soups, but as a flavoursome component in marinades, dressings and even in desserts. As diets become more focused on being wholesome and nutritious, this ancient soybean paste is fast becoming a vital ingredient in every cook’s kitchen. Here, miso expert Bonnie Chung shares 60 recipes on how to enjoy this ingredient in both Japanese and non-Japanese dishes. You will find all the classics, such as miso black cod and nasu dengaku, as well as modern applications that boost the umami in everyday meals, such as smothering miso butter over roasted corn or toasted bread. You will never look at miso in the same way again!
THE COOKBOOK
With instructions on how to make your own miso at home, and an in-depth exploration of the many types of miso with accompanying cooking tips, this book is ideal for adventurous cooks wanting to expand their repertoire of Japanese dishes, as well as those who want to include more umami-rich flavours in their everyday cooking.
EVERYDAY, TASTY RECIPES WITH MISO – THE JAPANESE SUPERFOOD
BONNIE CHUNG
BONNIE CHUNG UK £14.99
www.pavilionbooks.com