Freehand Fashion by Chinelo Bally

CHINELO BALLY MARKETING AND PUBLICITY HIGHLIGHTS Chinelo was a finalist on BBC’s ‘Great British Sewing Bee’ (2014) where she wowed the judges with her ability to create stylish fitted garments using her freehand cutting technique.

• Freehand Fashion workshops and events at key craft and lifestyle venues • Chinelo is confirmed as a super theatre speaker for Kirstie Alsopp’s Handmade Fair at Hampton Court in September

FREEHAND FASHION

• Big feature and project extract in key national newspaper weekend supplements • Advertising campaign in consumer sewing and craft magazines • Integrated online campaign across Chinelo’s and Pavilion’s social media accounts featuring video content, images, competitions and promotions • We will invite people to share their Freehand Fashion creations online using #FreehandFashion

SPECIFICATIONS Format: 246 x 189 mm Extent: 192 Pages Number of images: Colour photographs throughout Price: £20 Binding: Hardback ISBN: 9781910496145 Publication date: 15 October 2015

CONTACTS Publicity and events: Frida Green fgreen@pavilionbooks.com | 020 7462 1519 UK book trade sales: Bridget Latimer-Jones Faber Factory Plus bridgetlj@faber.co.uk | 020 7927 3809 For all other sales enquiries contact sales@pavilionbooks.com | 020 7462 1500 Pavilion Books is distributed by HarperCollins Distribution

@pavilioncraft |

Pavilion Craft |

pavilionbooks |

Pavilion Books

LEARN TO SEW THE PERFECT WARDROBE

NO PATTE RN S RE QU IRE D!

Learn the freehand cutting method with up-and-coming designer and ‘Sewing Bee’ star Chinelo Make classic garments that fit perfectly every time – with no patterns required Before appearing on the BBC’s ‘Great British Sewing Bee’, Chinelo Bally had never used a sewing pattern. She wowed the judges with her ability to create stylish, fitted garments using a freehand cutting method that was taught to her by an aunt. In this exciting new dressmaking book, Chinelo will let us in to the secret of how she does it. Using a series of basic garment blocks, she will explain how this innovative technique can be used to create a wardrobe of fashionable clothes. Full step-by-step instructions are included for a range of garments including tops, skirts, day dresses, and eveningwear.

C ONTENT S a b o u t m e .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 a b o u t f r e e h a n d c u t t i n g. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 S E W ING E S S ENTIA L S .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 0 T o o l s a n d e q ui p m e n t. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 T echniq ue s.................................................... 18 Ta k i n g m e a s u r e m e n t s .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 4 T h e b a s i c bl o c k s .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 0 B o d ic e , s k i r t, d r e ss , f l a r e , s l e e v e ��������� 3 2 THE P RO J E C T S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 2 M a x i s k i r t .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4 B at w i n g t o p.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 0 c h iff o n k i m o n o t o p .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 2 hi- l o w t op..................................................... 8 2 b o x t o p .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 4 ci r c l e s k i r t.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 0 6 p e n ci l s k i r t. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 4 fitt e d p e n ci l d r e ss. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 4 d at e n ig h t d r e ss. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3 2 v e lv e t w r a p d r e ss.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 4 0 w r a p - a r o u n d m a x i d r e ss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 0 c r o ss - f r o n t t o p .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 8 c o l l a r l e ss b l a z e r .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 6 8 p e p l u m j a c k e t .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 7 6 me r m a id e v e ning go w n............................ 18 4 Gl o ss a r y .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 9 0 Ac k n o wl e d g m e n t s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 9 2

Uncorrected extract from Freehand Fashion published by Pavilion

Ab out freeh and c u tt ing T

his is not your conventional sewing book; if you watched the Sewing Bee then you will know that I am not a conventional sewist. This book is all about producing beautiful, elegant and stylish garments using the ‘freehand cutting’ method. Freehand cutting involves transferring an individual’s measurements directly onto folded fabric, using dart placements to fit their specific body shape, and shaping out the design of the garment to achieve a very precise fit.

For a very long time sewing homemade garments has been seen as outdated, but what could be more individual than creating your own wardrobe full of the colours, textures and styles that appeal to you? This book contains a plethora of exciting projects that range from easy to more challenging. We will make beautifully fitted gowns for ultra-glamorous events, flattering tops that ooze femininity, and many more garments that will give your wardrobe a facelift.

In terms of structure, the book covers key techniques and the cutting of basic blocks and then shows you how to adapt them for different designs. As you grow in confidence you will want to experiment, making clothes you’ve always had in mind but couldn’t find in the shops. I want to free you from the restrictions of commercial patterns and inspire you to bring your own fashions to life. I warn you: you may never want to buy clothes again!

This book is aimed at anyone with an interest in dressmaking, and especially the growing numbers of young women who are venturing into sewing for the first time. I want to offer beginners a fresh take on home sewing, one that is fashionable and trendy, and I also want to entice seasoned sewers to step away from traditional rules and try the exciting freehand method. I learned this method without any prior knowledge of sewing; before I appeared on the Sewing Bee, I had never used a pattern. This is a technique that everyone can learn, and I look forward to walking you through it, step-by-step!

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Freehand Fashion

Freehand Fashion

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MAXI SKIRT

4

Freehand Fashion

F

or me, nothing beats a romantic look in the summer, and what’s more romantic than a beautifully floaty maxi skirt. This one is an absolute winner with all body shapes because it hugs closely at the waist then flares out skimming the rest of the lower torso and legs. The great thing about this cut is its versatility; you can use all kinds of fabrics and achieve very different looks. A stiffer cotton fabric will fall with more structure and lend itself to a fuller silhouette, whilst a soft silk-satin will give you a deliciously liquid drape. If you don’t fancy the full-length version, just make it shorter. Remember, you are the designer, so play with fabrics, lengths, embellishments; let your imagination run free.

Measurements needed Waist (see page 25) • First radius (see page 26) • Second radius (see page 26)

Block needed Flare Block (see page 43)

Amount of fabric needed Width = second radius x 2 + 100cm Length = fabric that measures at least 145cm across from selvage to selvage

Equipment needed

Notes Always fold fabric right sides together unless otherwise stated.It is important to press every fold to create definite creases. Take a 1.2cm seam allowance throughout unless otherwise stated.

Fabric Fusible interfacing • Pins • Straight ruler Tape measure • Fabric marker (see page 12) Iron and ironing board • Sewing machine Sewing thread to match fabric 30cm invisible zip • Fabric scissors

Freehand Fashion

5

1

Follow the instructions for the flare block to work out the first radius. The second radius will be the desired skirt length plus 4cm plus the first radius.

MultiplyFREEHAND the second radius by two and measure that length along the selvage of FASHION 07875 243 960 kate.illustrator@gmail.com the fabric and cut off the excess. high-waisted maxi skirtSet the excess aside.

spring 2015

2

Fold the fabric in half along the selvage; this is the centre front fold. Follow steps 1–5 of the method for a flare from the Flare Block, folding over the 2.5cm zip allowance at centre back.

CENTRE FRONT FOLD

ZIP ALLOWANCE IS FOLDED BACK

FREEHAND FASHION

kate.illustrator@gmail.com 07875 243 960

high-waisted maxi step 2 skirt

3

2 Fold the fabric in half along the selvage; this is the centre front fold. Follow steps 1–5 of the method for a flare from the Flare Block, folding over the 2.5cm zip allowance at centre back.

Cut a strip of fabric that measures 15cm wide, by your waist measurement plus 10cm long. Fold the strip in half lengthways 3 Cut a strip fabric and press it. Then fold it in of half widthways; this folded edge is centre measures 15cm front. Fold overthat andispress a 2.5cm zip allowance strip on the open wide, by your waist ends, folding over both layers of fabric together; this is centre back. measurement plus Bring the centre front over to line up with the centre back and press.

10cm long. Fold the This last fold will beinthe side seams. strip half lengthways

6

and press it. Then fold it in half widthways; this fold?(folded edge) is centre front. Fold over and press a 2.5cm zip allowance strip on the open ends, folding over both layers of fabric together; this is centre back. Bring the

CENTRE FRONT

step 3Freehand Fashion

spring 2

strip in half lengthways and press it. Then fold it in half widthways; this fold?(folded edge) is centre front. Fold over and press a 2.5cm zip allowance strip on the open ends, folding over both layers of fabric together; this is centre back. Bring the centre front folds over to Unfold the widthways line up with the centre and cut alongback theand lengthways press. This fold will beand the side fold to create thelast waistband seams.

4

step 3

CENTRE FRONT

the facing. Cut open the side 4 Unfold thethree widthseam folds. You will have ways folds and cut waistband piecesalong and the three lengthways facing pieces. fold to create the

waistband and the facing. Cut open the side seam folds. (not quite clear about this-aren’t they flattened out now?You will have three waistband pieces-ie.a front and 2 back pieces and three facing pieces.

FACING PIECES

step 4

FREEHAND FASHION

kate.illustrator@gmail.com 07875 243 960

5

Use the facing pieces as templates to cut the same shapes high-waisted maxi skirt in fusible interfacing, but omitting the zip allowance strips at centre back. Fuse the interfacing to wrong side of the facing pieces, thepieces zip allowances as plain fabric.

5 Use leaving the facing as

spring 2015

USE AN IRON TO FUSE THE INTERFACING TO THE FACING

templates to cut the same shapes in fusible interfacing, but omitting the zip allowance strips at centre back. Fuse the interfacing to wrong side of the facing pieces, leaving the zip allowances as plain fabric. (10)

6 Right sides together and matching the centre creases, sew the front facing to the front waistband along the top edge.

Right sides together, sew the back facings to the back waistbands, but stop sewing 2.5cm before the zip allowance fold. Understitch the seam allowFreehand Fashion ances towards the facing on all the pieces.

this understitching line

ZIP ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INTERFACED

step 5

Continued...

7

A BOU T ME

I

am a Nigerian-born Brit with an overly healthy appetite for fashion and sewing. I have always loved fashion but I began my dressmaking journey three years ago. After buying my first sewing machine and failing woefully at a couple of attempts at off-piste sewing, I decided to go to my aunty, who is a dressmaker, and watch her sew in the hope of picking up her magic trick. Her freehand approach appealed to me because I had many ideas in my head and was itching to bring them to fruition; commercial patterns could not give me that freedom of expression. It took me three months to learn the freehand technique, but I was determined and fell passionately in love with the process of dressing myself this way.

After my stint on Sewing Bee I received several thousand emails from around the world with requests for workshops, and decided to share my craft. I now run workshops at my studio in East London and in Essex, Sussex and Devon. I also keep my Twitter @Chinelobally and Instagram chinelobally accounts abuzz with exciting, fashion-related projects.

CHINELO BALLY MARKETING AND PUBLICITY HIGHLIGHTS Chinelo was a finalist on BBC’s ‘Great British Sewing Bee’ (2014) where she wowed the judges with her ability to create stylish fitted garments using her freehand cutting technique.

• Freehand Fashion workshops and events at key craft and lifestyle venues • Chinelo is confirmed as a super theatre speaker for Kirstie Allsopp’s Handmade Fair at Hampton Court in September

FREEHAND FASHION

• Big feature and project extract in key national newspaper weekend supplements • Advertising campaign in consumer sewing and craft magazines • Integrated online campaign across Chinelo’s and Pavilion’s social media accounts featuring video content, images, competitions and promotions • We will invite people to share their Freehand Fashion creations online using #FreehandFashion

SPECIFICATIONS Format: 246 x 189 mm Extent: 192 Pages Number of images: Colour photographs throughout Price: £20 Binding: Hardback ISBN: 9781910496145 Publication date: 15 October 2015

CONTACTS Publicity and events: Frida Green fgreen@pavilionbooks.com | 020 7462 1519 UK book trade sales: Bridget Latimer-Jones Faber Factory Plus bridgetlj@faber.co.uk | 020 7927 3809 For all other sales enquiries contact sales@pavilionbooks.com | 020 7462 1500 Pavilion Books is distributed by HarperCollins Distribution

@pavilioncraft |

Pavilion Craft |

pavilionbooks |

Pavilion Books

LEARN TO SEW THE PERFECT WARDROBE

NO PATTE RN S RE QU IRE D!