Dissertation

Should Generation Z trust fast fashion brands for their knowledge on mental health?

Antonia gabriella salt 24004894 case study sheffield hallam university sheffield institute of art

Should Generation Z trust fast fashion brands for their knowledge on mental health?

Antonia Gabriella Salt 16th May 2019

A case study submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for BA (Hons) Fashion Management & Communication

Sheffield Hallam University

Sheffield Institute of Arts

SHU Logo

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Acknowledgements

I’d like to thank Karen and Paul. For being so patient, and supportive through out one of my toughest years personally. Without such compassionate, caring, understanding and personable tutors, I’m not sure if I’d still be in the position where I am able to write a note of thanks in my final project.

Thank you for being the kind natured people you are. The world needs more like the both of you. We are all so lucky.

To Emma, my best friend. The loyalty of a saint. Thank you for forever supporting my projects, life choices and everything in between. Your on going support to help me wherever possible has never go unnoticed.

My Mum. Who supports my visions, dreams and outlandish decisions no matter how tough they might be. This final project couldn’t of been done without your long rants and dog walks that always kept me on my toes and thinking of the next step.

To Paige GB, who without you Id probably have thrown my laptop out the window by now.

Always on call to answer the most annoying and tedious questions I may have no matter the time of day or night.

For always checking up on me when you knew something was wrong. You’re a true honest friend. Never change.

And to C, who never failed to push me to be the best I can be. In the darkest times, you were there with your support and positive attitude. I’ll never forget your endless patience.

This case study couldn’t have been completed without you.

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Contents 4 Acknowledgements 6 Contents 8 Abstract 10 introduction 12 Chapter One 18 Chapter Two 26 Chapter Three 30 Conclusion 34 Bibliography 36 Appendix 42 list of illustrations

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Abstract

key words: Generation Z, Fast Fashion Brands, Mental Health, Body Image, Authenticity The focus of this research is in the area of Generation Z being reliant and trustworthy in fast fashion brands for their knowledge on mental health. Such a study is important in order to create awareness on mental health, and to create awareness with Generation Z on how brands shouldn’t be their number one source of knowledge on these sensitive issues. The research approach adopted consists of primary sourced interviews with various individuals such as, fast fashion brands and young individuals who feel passionately about mental health and body image.

Social media evidence of fast fashion brands and how they react to these subjects, will be used as secondary research,

as well as journals, books etc. The findings from this research intend to provide evidence that fast fashion brands are being false in addressing mental health, and other certain aspects of modern society to become more successful.

The main conclusions from this study intend to include, awareness of mental health in fashion, evidence that young people depend on fast fashion brands for their knowledge on these sensitive subjects, and what they say, too much. Recommendations from this essay intend to ensure that fast fashion brands educate themselves more before claiming to support sensitive, modern societal subjects, and influencing generation Z. Page | 10

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Introduction

Introduction “Who run the world

?”

GEN Z.

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Introduction This essay aims to explore the argument that Generation Z are too reliant and trustworthy, on the knowledge that fast fashion brands have on the subject of mental health. Aspects of generation Z life will be investigated in depth, to discover if they have a link to mental health issues, including social media, technology, online shopping; thus answering the essay question. Mental Health Foundation (2018) stated that, “10% of children and young people (aged 5-16 years) have a clinically diagnosable mental problem, yet 70% of children and adolescents who experience mental health problems have not had appropriate interventions at a sufficiently early age.” This is basic evidence that the topic of mental health needs to be discussed more often, and at an earlier stage which has consequently created the purpose of this essay. With Generation Z being the individuals who “will soon run our world” (Psychology Today 2015), it is important to discuss the subject of fast fashion brands and their influence on Generation Z in relation to mental health.

Mental health is a hugely talked about subject in the modern world, and effects a higher

percentage of individuals than ever before; thus effecting personal lives, work lives etc in a devastating way. Mind (2017) discussed that, “mental health problems affect around 1 in 4 people in any given year…

Most people know someone who has experienced a mental health problem. They can happen to all kinds of people from all walks of life.” It is a positive start that mental health is now being discussed more openly by everyone, but the issues magnifying mental health and intensifying the issue, need to be explored and discussed to ensure triggers are eliminated.

The aims and objectives of the essay are to discover if there is a connection between the way fast fashion brands portray their knowledge of mental health, the way Generation Z react to it, and if this effects their mental health.

Huffington Post (2017), who stated that, “Phil Hill - a 25 year old advocate for mental health, from Buckinghamshire, who was inspired to take brands including Missguided and Pink Boutique to task after seeing them post Instagram photos of the items with slogans including: “Cute but Psycho” and “Not Cute. Just Psycho”. She reached out to Missguided, Boohoo, Redressed, Save The People and Pink Boutique, directly and was successful in getting many to discontinue the problematic products.” She also added, “I definitely think we could use fashion to our advantage in order to help reduce the stigma surrounding mental health.”

The essay will also explore the current level of knowledge that fast fashion brands have, and the way they portray it to influence generation Z. Is it possible that the employees of Furthermore, the essay ques- these fast fashion brands have tion will allow aspects stat- no knowledge of mental health ed previously such as, online problems and so have no right shopping and social media, to discuss it as an element of to be discussed, as fast fash- strategy for the brand? Or are ion brands regularly talk about they knowledgable, and just these subjects on their social unaware of the implications media channels, in correlation when using their power to influwith the fashion that they sell. ence Generation Z? An example story of this is from

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Chapter One Fast fashion brands at the forefront of ‘Instagramable’ fashion include the likes of Missguided, Pretty Little Thing and Boohoo. com to name a few. In a primary survey based on the effects of social media and fast fashion brands on mental health, 50% of recipients said they used Misguided and Pretty Little Thing to buy their fashion. (Fig. A) Whilst these typical brands are hugely influential - some would say their objectives have become cynical rather than the fun loving, female empowering brands they originally sold themselves to be. One participant mentioned, “I’d assume that they are just trying to make money to be honest”, (Fig. B)

suggesting that the brands business mentality is solely focused on making money rather than the consumers as individuals. However, with fast fashion brands being a huge component in running the careers of influencers on social media, it is unlikely those individuals will see that brands possibly, aren’t as transparent as they make out. Without these brands support, influencers would not be able to succeed in the careers they do today. Well and Good (2018) stated that, “an increased number of people now see shopping as an accessible way to cope with their feelings around anxiety and depression—or a means of keeping

up with the Instagram Joneses”. Suggesting that these fast fashion brands are getting into the heads of not just generation Z, but anyone who supports them online - particularly social media users. Wonderland Magazine (2018) interviewed Georgina Johnson from ‘The Laundry’ about her event ‘Slow Fashion to Save Minds’. Wonderland stated to Georgina, “Fast fashion really doesn’t make sense – it’s a creative industry, yet people are on such tight schedules to churn out new ideas.”

She answered, “In my opinion the fashion industry has been having a mental health crisis and people romanticise the Page | 14

FIG A

crazy genius creative when people are actually sick. If we had more of a positive attitude and better systems in place people could create healthily.”

This could imply that the route of the problem with mental health surrounding fast fashion, is based within the brands themselves to begin with.

Georgina could be suggesting that if brands had more time to create the fashion, campaigns etc, they could also have more time to focus on the issues that surround fast fashion such as mental health, or possibly that mental health in fashion would not be as bad as it is right now. However, in an article titled ‘Mental Healths intrinsic link to fashion’ (2018) Jessica Ballard interviewed a young graphic designer from Auburn University about her

recent fashion project that provided her with an insight to the suffering she herself didn’t realise she was going through.

Auburn, the individual being interviewed, stated “For the first time, because I was on my own, I was realising just how badly I was depressed and dealing with anxiety.” She went on to discuss how buying into trends and styling new fashion helped her, and said that, “I think dressing well makes you

“I think dressing well makes you feel good.”

feel good. When you put care into how you’re expressing yourself, you feel better.” This argues that although fast fashion may increasingly be putting pressure on young generations to buy into their brand, it also gives individuals a sense of belonging and allows them to express themselves; in a world where they sometimes might not feel like they are able to. It allows them - as Auburn states - to ‘feel good’, almost like a distraction from the real life struggles of mental health.

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"If its profitable to be compassionate they will do it .�

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TheGuardian (2013) questioned a few years ago, “Will transparency in the fashion industry ever become a reality?” which could question not only sustainability - the basis of the article - and the way designers source and create fashion; but the way designers incorporate and discuss mental health also, thus providing a more trustworthy source for Generation Z. For the purpose of the case study, fashion influencers were asked on Instagram, their opinions on the way fast fashion brands handle and use mental health within the industry. One influencer who is also the owner of a successful modelling agency (and asked to be kept anonymous) stated that, “I think its clever marketing.

Pictures showing stretch marks or plus size promotion? I don’t think it’s genuinely for the right reasons.

It’s to make headlines.” (10th March 2019) (Fig C) The statement suggests that fast fashion brands don’t genuinely care about why young women want to see more realistic models in campaigns or when online shopping - they want to be more successful. So, the use of plus size models or not retouching models, is a catalyst to make more money and possibly make headlines.

This therefore questions whether or not Generation Z should depend on and trust fast fashion brands for their knowledge on mental health. If their intentions are not genuine when producing fashion and online content, how can young women trust them at all? Especially within

mental health.

When talking of influencers today in general, the automatic thoughts are fashion based.

Instagram is swarming with young women actively promoting different fast fashion brands, styling items in different ways and coming up with new ideas to be the most exciting profile. In a study based on the experiences and thoughts of Instagram influencers and their opinions on brands supporting mental health, it was interesting to find those positive aspects of mental health in fashion over the hugely negative that are seen a lot of today.

Instagram influencer @charliemasseyx (2019) stated that, “…you meet a lot of people through doing something you enjoy. I’m only tiny [influencer] but it’s something I enjoy and you meet a lot of like minded people doing it.” (April 2019) (Fig D) Charlie went on to talk about how she loves that she can pick and choose the brands she works with. She mentioned that, “I’ll only promote the brands I trust, which can be difficult sometimes but

I do research, and keep up to date with brands and their values, to make sure I’m only promoting what I believe in.”

When considering the possibility that fast fashion brands are being cynical rather than genuine when using mental health for the basis of campaigns; @ coreymusa (2019) answered a survey on Instagram (Fig E) stating that, “If it is profitable to be compassionate, they’ll do it.” With another simply stating “it’s all about the money” (@ jackquinney, 2019) and “they care more about using dishonest strategies to increase sales rather than being open and transparent with their customers.” (@bethanymorris_, 2019) (Fig F)

“Will transparency in the fashion industry ever become a reality?”

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However, Hannah Murtagh, founder and owner of swimwear brand ‘Dollz Gone Wild’ gave her opinion on the subject and stated that, “Personally, I’ve always suffered with some form of anxiety. I’ve tried a lot of things to over come it and this brand has kind of given me the platform and the confidence to speak out.” (May 2019) She went on to say that recently, she’d been through hell and back in her private life, without the brand to focus on and put all her energy into, she would of suffered more. “I will always be honest with my customers and I am the face of this brand purely so that they feel close to me on a personal level. My DM’s [direct messages] are always open for anyone who wants to talk about anything, and I’m just so grateful that I

have a platform where I can provide that for young girls.”

(Fig G) The evidence from brand owner Hannah shows that, although there are a lot of people who are faking their lives online, there are also people that want to use social media as something positive and selfless. This evidence from a brand owner could suggest that the key to getting generation Z to trust fast fashion brands is the personal connection. It has worked in Hannah’s favour that she is the face of the brand, and from the data received, this will be her brand strategy to allow her empire to grow. It provides a positive message to young individuals, that they can see the owner of the brand across all social media platforms and the website, as they are able to feel con-

nected to her and trust her beliefs. Following on from this, the evidence that Hannah is passionate about her product and continues to show the design, manufacturing and production process to her followers online; allows consumers to feel a sense of belonging and acceptance into Hannah’s world. It could be suggested that online fashion brands will continue to grow in the future if they show a lot more of the process online of how they go from design to selling their product. Similar to YouTubers, who have careers in showing the whole of their life on social media in the form of videos, brands could start to show more of their lives in order to form a closer relationship with their consumers, ultimately creating an audience and ‘fan base’.

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As mentioned previously, influencers are progressively being used as a catalyst for brands to promote their fashion, who often control these individuals into say specific things in their captions and post the images that the brands want, rather than what the influencer wants.

It is important to consider how social media is evolving more and more, especially in terms of generation Z and the fashion they buy. Although many feel that Instagram will slowly die out, with the recent changes of hiding likes being tested in May 2019, which already occurs when posting a video. Many believe that new apps, such as TikTok will take over, especially with the recent death of Vine which as extremely popular for six second comedy and music clips. It could be noted that Generation Z are already seeing themselves as influencers, or aspiring to be influencers and so will be ready to jump on any new apps that are bought into the social media world.

This could suggest that generation z will continue to lose trust in fast fashion brands, unless they continue to stay ‘on top of their game’ when it comes to social media, and the ways that mental health can be promoted.

“ Don't compare your life to others.

There is no comparison between the sun and the moon.

They shine when it is there time.”

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Chapter Two

Fig I

With “one billion people using Instagram every month” and “71% of Instagram users around the globe being under the age of 35” (Hootsuite 2019), “Instagram is the most influential social network in marketing.” (Media Marketing 2016) In a primary survey over 80% of participants used Instagram as their number one social network, and were all below the age of 25. (Fig. H) With that said, it is important to consider how the effects of social media, particularly Instagram, influences Generation Z’s opinion and behaviour towards mental health, and if this also comes from fast fashion brands. In the same survey as Fig A, participants were asked, ‘Does social media affect your state of mental health?’. (Fig I) 75% said that it did effect them, with most answering ‘why’ with comments such as, “It makes you feel not good enough” and, “It makes me over think things a lot, like relationships, how people feel about me or if things are aimed at me, and that others

maybe doing better than me.”

(Fig. J) Fast fashion brands have progressively started to incorporate elements of support towards mental health, including Pretty Little Thing who include a blog on their website with various posts supporting World Mental Health Day and ‘Self Love’ advice. (Fig K) However, fast fashion brand Missguided recently received backlash when they tried to make provide mental health with a humorous, light hearted side, which many just found offensive and insensitive. Mic Network (2017) stated that, “UK-based retailer Missguided, which bills itself as “an empowering, bold and forward thinking online fashion brand,” has come under fire for what many perceive as trivializing mental illness. Back in November, the burgeoning brand, a go-to for celebs including Emily Ratajkowski and Perrie Edwards, opened its first 20,000 square foot flagship location in Stratford, UK. The celebration quickly turned sour when a Twitter user using the moniPage | 20

Fig L

pany and supporters! #loveisland #disgraceful” (Fig M) and “Adam, given that you appear to be the owner of this brand, I would suggest you rethink your marketing. What you could have said was ‘in honour of girl code, we give you 20% off etc’ without actually resorting to dragging a 24 yr old girl for her life choices.” (Twitter 2018) (Fig N) This could suggest that more education is needed overall on the topic of mental health, and also the triggers of mental health, which seem to be a major online issue.

“It makes you feel not good enough. “

Chapter Two

ker Sirius Black took a screenshot of a store placard that read: “I’m a psychotic mess but at least my eyebrows look good.”” Thousands of twitter responses proved that Misguided’s uneducated phrase placement, wasn’t a clever move with comments such as, “Kinda disappointing @ Missguided sort it out! Mental illness is not a fashion statement.” (@_alittlemistake Twitter 2017) (Fig L) Issues with fast fashion brands creating offensive content in regards to mental health also came about when fast fashion brand, In The Style, tweeted about not giving Love Island star Megan, a discount code for her actions when she was on the show. The brand thought this was light hearted comedy but many people found it offensive tweeting: “Won’t get a penny from any of the girls in my house. Running down a woman less than a week after the tragic suicide of Sophie Gradon who suffered at the hands of online trolls, trolls just like your com-

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Chapter Two It is becoming increasingly difficult for brands to say how they feel with out receiving back lash. A lot of users will use the word ‘trolling’ or ‘troll’ for someone who purposely creates negativity surrounding other users comments, who are usually, not intentionally offending anyone; particularly on Twitter as mentioned above.

Robert Passikoff (2016) founder of brand and research consultancy Brand Keys, stated that, ““There’s a fine line between genuine feedback and negative trolls, and you have to be able to tell the difference [as a brand],” he then went to on to say that brands must think about whether or not it is necessary to reply to these comments.

Will it enhance the brands reputation? or bring it down?

Will it help the consumer in any way? He stated, “if it’s a no, then usually it’s just noise or fodder that doesn’t make

sense reacting to.” However, with more and more brands being born into the industry that promote mental health, there is a higher standard of support being set and the bigger brands are having to keep up, and become more down to earth in order for consumers to stay loyal to them. Maison De Choup is an example of a brand that bases it’s brand identity on promoting mental health awareness. George Hodgson, the found and owner of the brand was inspired by his three year suffering of anxiety and depression, to create Maison De Choup. George stated that, “This brand has helped people see that others suffer too. It’s about helping people seek therapy, telling them they can do it.” (B Daily 2017) George has vowed to donate twenty five percent of all earnings to Young Minds, a mental health charity, which not only is a good deed for

society, but also makes more selfish brands, question their future intentions. The evidence from this case provides a possible answer to the case study question. It could be possible that generation Z should be trusting fast fashion brands if they are proven to be a genuine benefit to the fast fashion world and modern society, especially for those who struggle mentally. It could be discussed that with more of these brands in the fashion atmosphere, less individuals from generation Z will support the large scale brands, and move on to supporting smaller brands that are more honest and down to earth.

Following on from this, it could cause concern for large scale brands, if they cannot connect on a personal level with generation Z, and the generation to follow.

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Chapter Two Although in the modern day, there are unfortunate amounts of mental health issues that spout from social media usage, many find social media to be a positive way to talk about aspects of modern day life, that could help individuals suffering with mental health. Anne-Marie Curtis for Elle Magazine (October 2018) discussed that, “Despite all the talk around digital detoxing and social medias impact on our mental health, I still believe there are positive aspects to this new social way of ‘being’. As well as a sense of belonging and a way of discovering new things, in these turbulent political times it’s also a means of actively engaging and voicing our points of view.” Anne-Marie suggests that social media gives not only younger generations, but everyone the platform to talk positively about their experiences, and possibly help others that may need that push to

talk about their mental health problems. Not only that, but it also allows individuals to voice their own opinions on what matters. Social media allows young people to feel that they can talk about their worries, help others positively and have their own voice, in a minefield of constant influencers and a lot of the time - negativity. Ella Purnell (2018) stated in the same Elle Magazine issue, based upon uplifting women in modern society, that: “There used to be a culture in the industry of tearing women down.

It was a horrible, competitive atmosphere. But now, it feels like we’re a team - we’re united and building each other up.”

She also talked about when she first spoke about her mental health struggles and said, “I recently became an ambassador for [mental health charity] Young Minds. It took me a long time to speak about my own experiences, specifically self

harm. There was no real decision; I was mid-interview and it fell out of my mouth. That’s when I knew I was ready to talk.

It felt good; like such a relief.”

The fact that people are openly and quite casually talking about mental health and sharing it on social media, creates a starting line for many others to reach out and open up - creating a community and proving that occasionally, social media can affect mental health positively.

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In the majority of studies created for the purpose of this essay the subject of body image as been voiced substantially. When asked, “Do you think that these fast fashion brands are knowledgeable on the issue of mental health within modern society?” (Fig W) in a survey based on the essay title, every participant mentioned brands’ outlook on body image and the message they send out to generation Z. One individual stated, “some [brands] have no idea what putting skinny girls in clothes, does to someones mental health.” With another answering with, “they [brands] use the skinniest models which could trigger eating disorders and it's not relatable.” This could suggest that, although generation Z are spending a considerable amount of time being encompassed into buying clothes

online; they are still not happy with the way brands are dealing with modern day societal issues, which in turn are triggering mental health problems.

Including, the pressure to look a certain way, or feeling like they can only love themselves and the way they look if they are ‘skinny’, as well as financial problems and pressure to buy more. However, body image isn’t the only trigger that generation Z are dealing with when purchasing online. When answering the previous question about how knowledgeable brands are in mental health, one anonymous participant (2019) stated, “…BooHoo and Missguided I think use bigger models now which is good but it is not only body conscious people out there, it is also people looking at make up, hair, people with work done I.e lips, Botox, fillers.” This comment

considers the authenticity of brands when choosing the models they use. More individuals than ever are feeling the societal pressures of not only feeling like they should look like a size 8 model, but also the pressure of getting cosmetic enhancements. Glamour Magazine (2019) stated that, “…by 2020, it’s believed that almost 1.5 million of us in the UK will have had a nonsurgical treatment such as Botox or fillers.” The research evidence suggests that generation Z are possibly being put off brands due to them not using enough diversity in their models, making young individuals feels as if they are not good enough. This therefore goes back to question whether or not brands are knowledgeable on mental health, and should their knowledge be trusted if they are unable to even show diversity and realness through out their brand.

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Instagram influencer @chlo_ hood (2019) shared her experience working within Instagram, for the purpose of this essay and stated that, “I sometimes feel the pressure to keep up, switch my feed, post more often and change how I edit my photos. But then I remember who I am, and that what I am doing is true to me. I really enjoy styling and doing what works for me.” (Fig O) Chloe explains that although she does feel the societal pressure and some times mental strain, she allows herself to have time to take a step back and remember why she’s passionate about Instagram and the way she can use her platform to share what she loves, which has a positive effect on her. In a study created for the purpose of this essay, twenty young women under the

Chapter Two

age of twenty three were asked if they felt it was important or not for brands to be openly supportive of mental health.

Shown in Fig P, 60% of those individuals said that it wasn’t important to them personally, with a few of them stating that, when they buy fashion, mental health isn’t something they think that deeply about. This could possibly suggest that, generation Z aren’t depending on fast fashion brands for their knowledge of mental health.

However, the remaining 40% stated that it was important to them, with one individual answering ‘why?’ (Fig Q) with, “People need to know that it’s okay to talk and to talk is the best thing you can do.” With another participant explaining that, “even top celebs deal with them [mental health issues] and can make them more relatable.” This suggests that although a lot of individuals feel the pressure to keep up with

influencers and the world of Instagram; many are still depending on said influencers to speak out about their mental health experiences; purely to feel more at ease about their struggles and to feel on the same level as them, emotionally. This evidence also implies that, fashion brands could be more personal with their consumers, to allow a higher level of trust and also, influence them in more ways than simply fashion and style.

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In a recent study which considered how much generation Z are influenced by fashion brands on social media, Fig R, 64% of participants said that they were influenced by fashion brands in some way. However, when proceeding to ask them forthrightly, if they trusted these brands that they were influenced by, 69% said that they didn’t. (Fig S) From the aforementioned data, it could be proposed that individuals who are using social media, are feeding their brains information that they don’t trust. Content that, could possibly be being created for the sole purpose of the brands personal popularity and success. On the other hand, it could also be suggested from this data that brands are being honest and genuine, and that they should be trusted; but, is it simply unfortunate that in the social world users are living in, they are unable to determine what is true and what is false?

What is genuine and what is distorted? Which could therefore, be detrimental to generation Z’s mental health. With Forbes (2018) stating that “Instagram is a power house for Gen Z influencer marketing”, it could be suggested that, over usage of the app has lead them to feel confused about who to trust in terms of fashion brands.

Fig P

Fig S Fig R

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Chapter Three As part of the previous survey, twenty individuals categorised as being a part of Generation Z, were asked “if there are any brands that you trust, which would you say are the most supportive of mental health?”

(Fig T) This is to understand why and how generation Z, if they do, put their trust into fast fashion brands. A few individuals mentioned ASOS, with @lauralynchhh (2019) stating the brand ‘Nobody’s Child’, @tastefacex (2019) answering with Instagram based brand ‘The Prawn Shop’ and everyone else simply stating, ‘none’. Bethany Morris (2019), a business student and graphic designer expressed that, “In terms of being inclusive and

transparent I would have said ASOS 100% due to them working with models of all shapes, sizes and ethnicities…and showing what I believed to be unedited photos.” (Fig F) She also mentioned in addition to this that Asos work with a charity called ‘Beat’ who support those suffering with eating disorders, leading her to believe they were a genuine brand to trust and believe in. She then went on to mention the recent up raw with clothing clips mistakingly not being edited out of ASOS’ online product images, to which she said; “this has now led me to believe that they are no different to the rest of the popular, deceptive brands who blatantly edit images.” This

suggests that up until recently, ASOS could be believed to be one of the top brands that are trusted in the fashion industry when it comes to mental health support and the promotion of body positivity where ever possible. However, since “ASOS has apologised for leaving two bulldog clips on a dress for sale on their website.” (BBC 2019), many individuals have lost faith in ASOS and it’s thought to be, genuine, positive identity. Since disappointing the nation with the bull-dog clip crisis, ASOS have attempted to redeem themselves with another social media stunt. Thea Chippendale, otherwise known as @theachippendale on twitter, recently received a nasty comPage | 28

Fig U Fig V

ment on Tinder - a dating app, tweeting, “Nice move @asos, about the dress she was wear- very nice move.” (Fig V) ing from ASOS. After posting the comment on twitter, and the image of her wearing the dress with the caption, “Men are Trash”, ASOS proceeded to use her image on their website as one of the product images.

(Fig U) Receiving nearly 8,000 retweets and over 101,000 likes, it could be questioned whether or not this is a genuine move from ASOS, are an attempt to cover up their mishap earlier in the week. Many people commented on the ‘act of kindness’ from ASOS, with accounts such as @CarrieRosePR (2019) saying, “Oh my god I LOVE this!” and verified account @PattyOLovesU

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Chapter Three However, when discussing the topic of body image, cosmetic procedures and the use of models who have them, in a group interview, there was also a different outlook on the subject. A young female participant who asked not to be named (April 2019) stated that, “I think there are bigger issues in the world than someone choosing to change elements of themselves. The world of social media goes on about body positivity and loving yourself, but these same people are slating girls who get fillers? Surely this is contradictory?” Another individual went on to agree with this comment and stated that, “if someone wants to change themselves in order for them to be happy, nobody should have a say in that.If anything it should be supported. If these young girls are so triggered by what they see on social media - they shouldn’t be on it.” (2019) (Fig X) What can be suggested from this evidence, is that young individuals shouldn’t be using Instagram, or following certain profiles if they know that they are triggered by seeing a girl promoting herself, if she has a

‘small figure' or gets cosmetic enhancements done. It could also be suggested that, some individuals feel that brands are doing no wrong by using models with these aspects and should not be distrusted purely for this reason. This group of Generation Z participants also went on to say that individuals their age shouldn’t be relying on fast fashion brands for their mental health, and if they are, they should “take a step back and educate themselves on the subject, before relying on social media and online brands.” (2019) From this evidence it can be stated that due to their being a wide age range of users on Instagram, it is difficult to avoid profiles, posts and brands, trickling into the feeds of younger users, that shouldn’t necessarily be viewing this type of content. Due to mass amount of users promoting weight loss, certain body types, fillers and botox etc., it could influence younger users to engage with this content, thus distracting them from the real world, becoming confused and wanting to look like these ‘models’ and influencers, and

in turn causing mental health problems. It is still questionable whether or not fast fashion brands are responsible for this rise in mental health issues due to their online content, the models and influencers they use to promote, and their way with words on social media. Or should users simply be more vigilant in what they look at and fill their feeds with, and not be easily influenced by these aspects online?

Following on from this, there is evidence from a previous survey that generation Z are feeling some confusion, in whether or not they should be trusting fast fashion brands, particularly on social media.

From Fig J, a participant stated that, “I can’t figure out if it helps motivate me to look how I want to look or makes me depressed that I don’t look that way yet, very confusing.”

What can be taken from this evidence is that, not only are there two sides to the way individuals feel about fast fashion brands on social media, but they are ultimately confused.

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They see both that fashion, influencers and models on social media can provide a positive platform, and a motivation to be successful and what society deems as ‘beautiful’; but also the pressure to look like these people, and in turn, buy from these brands in order to look like them. As well as developing mental health issues such as anxiety, depression etc due to societal pressures that generation Z are under, this could also be putting extra pressure on them, causing even more mental strain. As pointed out, as well as body image, financial pressure and the pressure to gain a following on social media, generation Z are now being forced to feel isolated and struggling to believe what is real or not when online shopping; something that should make them feel at ease when anxious.

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Conclusion

From the essay title and the discussions that have taken place, the evidence has shown that, there are many aspects of Generation Z life that are contributing towards the rise in mental health issues today.

With social media being at the forefront of these young individuals lives, it can be said that they are being manipulated every day, into believing everything they see online, especially in fast fashion brands and the information that they are putting across. These individuals are easily lead, and with much information being shared every second on social platforms, it can be difficult for them to find a balance between real life and social media. Although there is proof that the majority of Generation Z who use social platforms to look at fashion, do not trust these brands (Fig S), they are still avidly consuming them every day, without realising that they are being influenced by them.

though seem to be supportive of mental health, are only creating campaigns to become more successful and relatable to younger generations. Many have discussed that Pretty Little Thing, ASOS and more only want to promote and use mental health in their campaigns to gain more exposure, and a larger profit. However, evidence also states that the smaller brands, often described as Instagram boutiques with around 15,000 followers are less, are more likely to be honest and genuine when supporting mental health. Brands such as ‘Nobodys Child’, ‘The Prawn Shop’ and ‘Official Certee’ are often creating their brands based on mental health and the promotion of the issues that people suffer with. For example, Official Certee, with only 6,600 followers, create t-shirts with positive quotes on in order to spread an encouraging message to be yourself and be happy with yourself.

It can be stated from the evidence given that many feel that the big worldwide brands have become cynical and al-

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From research based on the rate at which fast fashion evolves, it can be concluded that fashion needs to slow down. The research has given evidence that brands are under pressure to constantly release new designs daily, which is having a mental effect on individuals who work for the brands, and first and foremost, the consumers who feel financially pressured into buying more. This is not just a small issue but something that creates a vicious cycle. As discussed previously, some individuals find buying new fashion online therapeutic, and an escape from mental suffering; a positive outlook on the fast fashion world. However this then creates the cycle of financial pressure, thus mental strain as generation Z cannot afford to persistently purchase new fashion

fourteen to interact with users on a level that can still be questioned as either their personal opinion or just to gain more followers. It can also be concluded from evidence that, influencers are a rising problem as well as fast fashion brands, as the individuals who a part of generation Z are struggling to trust and believe what they see online. Although the influencers interviewed love what they do, and believe they are promoting only what they believe in, it is still questionable as to who should trust them, and the products they promote. A lesson to be learnt from the study of mental health and social media, is that although users are It can be concluded that influ- confused about who to trust, encers are still a major part of the individuals who use their Instagram and the way that fast platforms to engage and comfashion brands are promoting municate their voice around themselves. It is allowing wom- the subject of mental health, en and teenagers as young as should continue to do so to ensure consistency and build more trust for generation Z to look up to and believe in.

explains that many brands are attempting to rectify this trigger of body image, however range from very small, petite girls, to the biggest sizes, and their are no in between sized models for the majority of young women to look at and feel normal. The evidence states that brands are very much one extreme to the other. Not only are generation Z concerned about body image, but the pressure to have cosmetic fillers and botox is something they would like to refrain from seeing in models.

Many feel they shouldn’t be putting their trust into fast fashion brands, because of these issues. However, it can also Evidence from Figure W, can be concluded that there needs provide clarity that one of the to be a sense of ignorance main triggers of mental health from Generation Z, and to let in generation Z today is body brands have room to breathe image. This is reducing the from all the knock backs they amount of trust that young indi- are persistently receiving from viduals are placing in fast fash- consumers about body image. ion brands today. The research Some individuals concluded that brands should be trusted and generation Z should have more ‘street sense’ when falling for the pressures of social media.

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From this essay it can be recommended that, there is a need for more realness from both fast fashion brands and influencers in general. This could include more real life, down to earth experiences, in order for consumers to relate to the brands more and enable a deeper level of trust. Brands need to use more real people as models in campaigns and online. Although many are trying to involve a variety of models, many individuals still believe that brands aren’t using enough diversity. The culture of influencers is extremely biased in terms of the look that brands are looking for, and is not realistic for young individuals to look up to these impractical, edited, photos, that are ultimately lying to their viewers and brands consumers.

Brands should also continue to interact with consumers on social media to be more relatable, and for consumers to feel as if they are on a personal level with the brands they follow and look up to. Further research could also be continued in all these areas, especially that of the world of influencers, how real they are being with their viewers and how brands could develop, be more down to earth and create a more relatable platform to ensure that generation can and should trust them on their knowledge of mental health.

Conclusion

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Appendix

Mental Health within Social Media and The Fashion In- “I feel social media portrays an dustry: image of what is considered to be beautiful and puts pressure Question 1 on people to be a certain way Do you feel that social media - this can lead to poor mental affects your mental health? health or feeling you are not (FIGURE I) good enough” YES - 75% NO - 25%

“Certain posts and triggers about various topics”

Question 2 If yes, in as many words as you would like, how do you think it effects you and your mental health? (FIGURE J)

“You automatically compare yourself to others and it makes you feel negative about yourself. You always think they have a better life, better clothes or are prettier”

“Makes you feel not good enough” “It can work both ways - if I’m feeling low/anxious and see something I don’t want to see then it will make my mood worse. But on the other hand there are many pages that comfort me and make me laugh etc so it can also be a positive influence on my mindset just as much.”

“It makes me feel sad when I look at people who look better than me and have more money and go to better places etc” “A lot of people tend to put on perfect, edited photos to which aren’t true.”

“Comparing yourself to people who have more money, lavish lifestyles, nicer hair, make up,

body’s etc” “I can’t figure out if it helps motivate me to look how I want to look or makes me depressed that I don’t look that way yet, very confusing lol” “It makes me over think thing a lot, like relationships, how people feel about me or if things are aimed at me, and that others maybe doing better than me.”

“It either makes you feel up or down” “It’s the seeing ‘perfection’ and non stop lives that may not be true! It’s also the misunderstanding that only words can give when you truly need body language to interpret them!”

“You aspire to be like the people on social media” “It effects you in terms of self confidence and how you look.

I think if you aren't happy with how you are to being with then Page | 38

go on social media and see people posting amazing (but often edited) bodies it does effect you”

RIVER ISLAND - 0% TOPSHOP - 0% SELFRIDGES - 0% OTHER - 27.78%

“I never feel good enough compared to most girls that ‘photoshop’,making me feel insecure and unhappy”

Question 7 Is it important to you that the brands that you shop with, support mental health issues? (FIGURE P)

Question 3 Do you use social media to browse and buy fashion / clothing?

YES - 80% NO - 20% Question 4 If yes, what social media channels do you use?

INSTAGRAM - 83.33% (FIGURE H) FACEBOOK - 11.11% TWITTER - 0% SNAP CHAT - 5.56% TUMBLR - 0% Question 5 Do you use apps to buy your fashion?

YES - 80% NO - 20% Question 6 If yes, which ones? (FIGURE A) PRETTY LITTLE THING 27.78% MISSGUIDED - 16.67% IN THE STYLE - 0% I SAW IT FIRST - 0% INSTAGRAM BRANDS - 0% BOOHOO - 0% FASHION NOVA - 0% DEPOP - 5.56% ASOS - 22.22% URBAN OUTFITTERS - 0% NASTY GAL - 0% ZARA - 0%

YES - 40% NO - 60% Question 8 If yes, why? (FIGURE Q) “I feel more brands are speaking and supporting mental health whereas before people tended to hide their feelings” “To show an influence”

“All brands sizes are different and I feel like the ones I use are the perfect size and don’t make me feel insecure when trying on, brands supporting mental health may give people less insecurities” Question 9Do you think that these fast fashion brands are knowledgeable on the issue of mental health within modern society?

Please explain. (FIGURE W) “Unsure - I feel that some just advocate mental health because it’s ‘fashionable’ or ‘relevant’ and may help boost their brand image, it’s hard to say without talking to individuals who work for each brand.”

“More money would go towards it if they were to put half of postage money towards mental health support. Also showing more natural pictures of models so you get a real sense of what you would look like in a dress without it coming and being disappointed because it looks better on a size 6 model”

“I am unsure. I often wonder how the people making the clothes feel”

“I think it's so important especially with the mental health issues we have today that they are brought to light and not ignored. even top celebs deal with them and can make them more relatable”

“No”

“I had suffered with my mental health in silence for the last part of 2018, and just think it's something that really needs to be spoken about. I spoke to someone and instantly felt better. People need to know that it's okay to talk and to talk is the best thing you can do.”

“I don’t think so no, they’re barely dealing with diversity let alone mental health” “i feel as though they’re knowledgeable but they don’t do anything to prevent it”

“I do in some of them such as boohoo and misguided I think use bigger models now which is good but it is not only body conscious people out there it is also people looking at make up, hair, people with work done I.e lips Botox fillers. More natural pictures would be easier to look at when buying however, fast shipping means no time for attention to detail so people are just liking a dress and putting it in their basket instead of maybe showing people how to ‘get Page | 39

the look’ and doing a tutorial on hair and make up may be a bit more supportive towards making individuals feel better” “No, I don’t think it is a subject that they even consider” “Many of them, no, as they still use “perfect” models to promote their clothing, and when people buy it it makes them feel shit because they don’t look the same in the outfit as the model did.”

“I’d assume they are really just trying to make money to be honest” (FIGURE B) “Not at all. especially with body confidence issues , they use the skinniest models which could trigger eating disorders and it's not relatable” “No because they still portray the must haves as the only option which in turn makes you feel without that item you are not fashionable but that item might financially put pressure on your mental health”

selling good quality clothes” Question 10 When choosing where to shop for your fashion, which of these are important to you to consider?

Musa. C, Quinney. j, personal communication via Instagram, “opinions on brands being genuine in terms of mental health” (March 2019) (FIGURE E)

Diversity in models - 31.58% An obvious support and understanding of mental health - 0% Inclusivity of all sizes - 5.36% Price - 63.16% Environmental impact - 0% Cruelty Free - 0% A positive connection with consumers on social media - 0% Other - 0%

S.Beverly, personal communication via Instagram, “are brands genuine when using mental health in campaigns etc?” (March 2019) (FIGURE C)

Morris. B, personal communication via Instagram, “Brand that should be trusted and supports mental health” (April 2019) (FIGURE F)

“Some have no idea what putting skinny girls in the nice clothes. Shops go from thin to very curvy” “Probably, but they don't actively promote or talk about it. Maybe because it can be a touchy subject and obviously they won't want to ruin their rep if they misjudge something they talk about. They shouldn't care but that's not what the big bosses think, they just want the $$$” “No, they won’t be thinking about the importance of the people who buy off them, just

Massey. C, personal communication via Instagram, “positive thoughts of being an influencer” (April 2019) (FIGURE D)

(Murtagh. H, personal communication via Instagram, “personal opinion from a fast fashion brand and how they handle mental health” (May 2019) (FIGURE G)

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Pretty Little Thing (2019) “evidence of self care blog” (August 2018) Retrieved from: https://blog.prettylittlething. com/self-care-rituals-to-trynow/ (FIGURE K) @_alittlemistake, public communication via Twitter, “comment on the ill placed quote in Missguided flag ship store.”

(Dec 2016) (FIGURE L)

@sollytime, public communications via Twitter, “comments on offensive tweeting from In The Style” (June 2018) (Figure M)

Hood. C, personal communication via Instagram “experience working within Instagram as an influencer” (April 2018) (Figure O)

Lynch, L. Face, T (April 2019) personal communication via Instagram, “question of whether or not generation z trust fast fashion brands.” FIGURE T

April 2019, survey question communicated publicly on Instagram, FIGURE R

Chippendale. T, public communication on Twitter, “offensive tweet about dress featuring conversation from Tinder.”

(April 2019) FIGURE U

@lovekeels, public communications via Twitter, “comments on offensive tweeting from In The Style” (June 2018) (FIGURE N)

April 2019, survey question communicated publicly on Instagram, FIGURE S

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Rose. C, Bright, P, public communication Twitter. “replies to ASOS using image on website of girl in dress.� (May 2019) FIGURE V

List of Illustrations Mental health quote: https:// w w w. m e l i s s a b l a k e b l o g . com/2018/06/mental-healthquotes.html Missguided & BooHoo PNG: googleimages.com Chapter one icons: googleimages.com ASOS com

logo:

googleimages.

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