THE TEXTILE HUB, a place to learn and earn_Design Dissertation_2021-22

The Textile Hub, a place to learn and earn.

By Prajwal Narendra Rekha Pembarti GUIDED BY Ar. Shripad Bhalerao A Dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment Of the requirements for SEM-IX The Degree

BACHELOR OF ARCHITECTURE MUMBAI UNIVERSITY MUMBAI, MAHARASHTRA. 5TH YEAR, SEM-IX, BARD 911, OCT’ 2021 Conducted at: RACHANA SANSAD’S ACADEMY OF ARCHITECTURE, UN-AIDED COURSE RACHANA SANSAD, 278, SHANKAR GHANEKAR MARG, PRABHADEVI, MUMBAI 400025.

APPROVAL CERTIFICATE The following Under-Grad Design Dissertation Study is hereby approved as satisfactory work on the approved subject carried out and presented in a manner sufficiently satisfactory to warrant its acceptance as a pre-requisite and partial fulfillment of requirement to the 5th Year Sem IX of Bachelor Of Architecture Degree for which it has been submitted.

This is to certify that this student Prajwal Narendra Rekha Pembarti is a bonafide Final Year student of our institute and has completed this Design Dissertation under the guidance of the Guide as undersigned, adhering to the norms of the Mumbai University & our Institute ThesisCommittee.

It is understood that by this approval and certification the Institute and the Thesis Guide do not necessarily endorse or approve any statement made, opinion expressed or conclusions drawn therein; but approves the study only for the purpose for which it has been submitted and satisfied the requirements laid down by our Thesis Committee.

Name of the Student: Prajwal Narendra Pembarti Rekha Date: 26/10/21 Approved By

Principal Ar. Prof. Rohit Shinkre

College Seal

Certified By

Thesis Guide Ar. Prof. Shripad Bhalerao

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Examined By

External Examiner-1 ( )

External Examiner-2 ( )

DECLARATION I hereby declare that this written submission entitled “The Textile Hub, a place to learn and earn” Represents my ideas in my own words and has not been taken from the work of others (as from books, articles, essays, dissertations, other media and online); and where others’ ideas or words have been included, I have adequately cited and referenced the original sources. Direct quotations from books, journal articles, internet sources, other texts, or any other source whatsoever are acknowledged and the source cited are identified in the dissertation references.

No material other than that cited and listed has been used.

I have read and know the meaning of plagiarism* and I understand that plagiarism, collusion, and copying are grave and serious offences in the university and accept the consequences should I engage in plagiarism, collusion or copying. I also declare that I have adhered to all principles of academic honesty and integrity and have not misrepresented or fabricated or falsified any idea/data/fact source in my submission.This work, or any part of it, has not been previously submitted by me or any other person for assessment on this or any other course of study.

Signature of the Student Name of the Student: Prajwal Narendra Pembarti Rekha Exam Roll No: 1731 Date:26/10/2021

Place: Mumbai

*The following defines plagiarism: “Plagiarism” occurs when a student misrepresents, as his/her own work, the work, written or otherwise, of any other person (including another student) or of any institution. Examples of forms of plagiarism include: • the verbatim (word for word) copying of another’s work without appropriate and correctly presented acknowledgement; • the close paraphrasing of another’s work by simply changing a few words or altering the order of presentation, without appropriate and correctly presented acknowledgement; • unacknowledged quotation of phrases from another’s work; • the deliberate and detailed presentation of another’s concept as one’s own.

• “Another’s work” covers all material, including, for example, written work, diagrams, designs, charts, photographs, musical compositions and pictures, from all sources, including, for example, journals, books, dissertations and essays and online resources.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT As I complete my dissertation, I take this opportunity to express my sincere gratitude to the numerous people who have helped and guided me in my journey.

I am thankful to my thesis guide, Ar. Prof. Shripad Bhalerao for his constant knowledge which taught me to be experimental and explore the entire process. I am grateful to Ar. Prof Harshada Bapat Shintre for her guidance, right from first year which taught me to look into all the perspectives.

I am thankful to the owners of the textiles industries who have allowed me to visit their industries, given me their valuable time and guided me through the entire process; 1. Mr. Jagannath Singham (SRL Industry) 2. Mr. Vinayak Racharla (Kalatex) 3. Mr. Govardhan Chatla (Chatla Chaddars) 4. Mr. Venkatesh Devsani (Devsani Textiles) I am thankful to my friends, Soham Tulaskar, Pradyumna Vikharankar, Sarvdip Pitale Raviraj Karke and Amartya Sonaje for their constant motivation and support all these years.

I am thankful to my parents and my sister, for their love, care and pushing me to be my best in every stage of life.

ABSTRACT The textile industry has a unique place in the India. It contributes on a larger scale to the growth and development of the Indian economy. It is one of the earliest to come into existence in India, it accounts for 14% of the total Industrial production, contributes to nearly 30% of the total exports and is the second largest employment generator after agriculture. Almost all the states in India have a characteristic feature in manufacturing their own textile fabric. From the Pashmina’s of Kashmir and Banarasi Silk of Uttar Pradesh in the north to Kalamkari of Andhra Pradesh and Kanjivaram of Tamil Nadu in the south varying from the Bnadhani of Gujarat and Paithani of Maharashtra in the west to the Sambhalpuri of Odisha and Jamdhani of West Bengal in the east, each of these fabrics have their own defined character which marks their symbol that emerges in each of its states.

One of the styles which marks its symbol in the state of Maharashtra are the Solapuri Chaddars. It manufactures not only chaddars but also items such as, towels, terry towels, napkins and bedsheets have marked their symbol because of its strength and durability.

They are made up of cotton, as cotton is grown on a larger scale in Solapur because of its favourable conditions. The city has evolved from the origin of mills to the use of handloom and powerloom sector and developing itself to the use of autolooms and rapier looms. The textile industry in Solapur provides employment to large number of labourers. Today handlooms and powerlooms are used on a large scale, mostly powerlooms. The products manufactured from these equipment’s are exported all over the world. Also, the waste fabric isn’t thrown away, people use it to make handicraft items such as fabric lanterns, purses, bags, mobile covers, etc. To carry forward this legacy the proposal is to create the Textile Hub wherein, people can learn the entire process, handle the equipment’s, and understand the required marketing strategies. This proposal will not only be favourable for the people to learn but also to earn in the same space. It will also promote textiles which are made here and mark the presence of Solapuri textiles on a global scale.

Illustration of making Solapuri Textiles

This research is divided into three parts wherein, first part talks about Solapur as a transit city, introduction of Solapuri textiles, history and literature review. The second part is about understanding the process, issues faced by the textile industry, introduction to handloom and power loom, activities and user analysis, skills and the organizers. The further stages talk about the case studies, proposal and site identification. The third part concludes the dissertation.

TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION 1.1 Introduction 1.2 Solapuri Textiles 1.3 Aim & Objective 1.4 Scope & Limitations 1.5 Methadology & Outcome

CHAPTER 5: CASE STUDY 14 15 16 16 17

CHAPTER 2: HISTORY 2.1 History 2.2 Mill Sector 2.3 Growth and development of Solapur textile industry 2.4 Factors leading to growth and development of Solapur textile industry 2.5 Handloom and Powerloom

20 21 22 24 26

32 33

CHAPTER 4: RESEARCH METHODOLOGY 4.1 Yarn Production 4.2 Yarn Doubling 4.3 Dyeing 4.3A Hank Dyeing 4.3B Cone Dyeing 4.4 Winding 4.5 Warping 4.6 Weaving 4.7 Stitching and Packaging 4.8 Issues 4.9 Activity mapping in Textile Industry 4.10 Activity mapping in Textile Hub 4.11 User Analysis 4.12 Organizers and Stakeholders 4.13 Skills Taught in Textile Hub

37 37 37 38 38 39 39 40 40 42 46 47 48 49 50

62 66 68

CHAPTER 6: PROPOSAL 6.1 Program

CHAPTER 3: LITERATURE REVIEW 3.1 Article about Handloom and Power loom 3.2 Power loom Industry in Solapur: Challenges and Barriers in its Growth

5.1 Ganga Maki Textile Studio, Uttarakhand 5.2 Calico Museum, Ahmedabad 5.3 Khamir Craft Resource Centre Kutch

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CHAPTER 7: SITE ANALYSIS 7.1 Site Selection Criteria 7.2 Site Option 1: MIDC, Solapur 7.3 Site Option 2: MIDC, Solapur (Private Plots) 7.4 Site Option 3: Solapur Akkalkoat Highway Road 7.5 Site Option 4: Damani Nagar, Solapur 7.6 Site Justification 7.7 Climate Considerations 7.8 Site Conditions and Design Vignettes 7.9 Site Regulations 7.10 S.W.O.C Analysis

CHAPTER 8: CONCLUSION

Biblography Appendix

78 79 80 81 82 88 90 92 96 98

1.0 INTRODUCTION

Chapter 1: Introduction

1.1 Introduction:

1.2 Solapuri Textiles:

The textiles made in India have a significant value all over the world. This significance is gained because of its high durability, strength and low maintenance. Textile industry is an independent industry from the basic requirement of raw material to the final product, with huge value-addition of every stage of processing. One of the cities in India whose textiles have a huge demand all over the world is Solapur. The textile industry in Solapur has developed and grown since years, from handloom to power loom and now developing to autoloom and rapier looms, the city has marked its presence in the economic growth of textile industry in India. Textile industry generates large number of employment opportunities and lots of labours and workers depend upon the textile industry for their household working and that’s the reason why the Indian textile industry occupies an important place in the economic growth of India.

Solapur is known for its cotton textiles since years. The city manufactures one of the finest textiles which are known for its design and durability. Textiles of Solapur have gained importance after globalization. Earlier the textiles were manufactured from handloom equipment’s but, after industrialization powerlooms came into practice. The peculiar feature of Solapur is that Solapur is one of the biggest centres in handloom weaving in India. Solapur had its composite mills for converting cotton into yarn and later on the yarn was used for making various products. The textile industry in Solapur provides a means of livelihood for more than 50,000 workers and labourers.

Solapur is a city located on the southern edge of Maharashtra and sharing the state boundary with the states of Telangana and Karnataka. The city is also close to the urban cities like Pune and Mumbai. Solapur also shares its city boundary with, Sangli, Satara, Ahmednagar and Osmanabad. All these reasons make the city of Solapur a transit hub as it closely connects and interlinked with many cities.

The products manufactured here are mostly terry towels but, it also manufactures chaddars, napkins, bedsheets, sataranjis, towels and terry towels etc. These products are not only exported in India but also all over the world. The city also manufactures products made up of the waste fabric such as, bags, lanterns, purses, mobile covers, wall hanging, etc.

The industries that are set up here is a family business. Mostly practiced by the Padmashali weavers. This family legacy is carried, handed down and endowed from years.

Solapur is derived from two words, ‘sola’ which means ‘sixteen’ and ‘pur’ means village, i.e., Solapur is an amalgamation of sixteen villages together. In olden times the city was known as Sonnalage/Sonnalagi and later came to be known as Sandhalpur/Sonalipur.

Britishers referred the city as, ‘Sholapur’ and was initially named ‘Solapur’. The culture of the city is a tri-linguistic and multi-cultural features, as people living here speak not only Marathi, but also Kannada and Telugu languages. People also experience the culture and tradition of three states viz. Maharashtra, Karnataka and Telangana.

Fig 2: Chaddar Source: Solapur Textiles

Fig 1: Solapur as a transit city Source: Author

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Fig 5: Sataranji Source: Solapur Textiles

Fig 3: Chaddar Source: Solapur Textiles

Fig 6: Towels Source: Solapur Textiles

Fig 4: Bedsheet Source: Solapur Textiles

Fig 7: Terry Towels Source: Solapur Textiles

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Chapter 1: Introduction

1.3 Aim & Objective:

1.5 Methodology & Outcome:

Aim:

Methodology:

The aim is to study the workforce pattern,manufacturing and the production of textiles. This research will further help in designing and providing a space for creating a textile hub. This space will help for learning and earning and also promoting the textiles made in Solapur.

The research methodology for this dissertation is to understand the working of Solapur Textile Industry and its development.

Objective: оо оо оо оо

To study the detailed history of cotton textile industry, its production and market.

To study the spaces where the products are manufactured.

To examine the role of government in the Solapur textile industry and its association.

To study the issues faced by the cotton textile industry and look for how architecture will help for its better functioning. оо To study the issues faced by the owners, workers and the labourers. оо To provide spaces for learning and earning.

1.4 Scope and Limitation: The scope of the project is limited to the city of Solapur because this city is known for its textiles.

The organizers and stakeholders need to be convinced for the smooth functioning of the Textile Hub. The association needs to plan the marketing strategies for the owners of the textile industry.

The stages of research include to look into the history of the textile industry of Solapur, to look into the issues faced by the textile industry and come up with solutions to solve the problem. To study what different products are manufactured in the textile industry of Solapur.

To study the growth and development of handlooms and powerlooms.

To approach the textile industry owners and the stakeholders for gathering the primary information and data. To interact with the people involved in working of the textile industry.

To study what is made with the leftover fabric and to study the skills used to make various products.

Outcome: The expected outcome is to create a Textile Hub where people can learn the skill of handling the machines, making products using the textiles, promoting the textiles made in Solapur and earning.

This Textile Hub will have a tie-up with the MIDC association, the Solapur Zilla Yantramag Dharak Sangha, National Powerloom Workers Association, Lal-Bawta Shramik Workers Union and Powerloom Workers Union. The Textile Hub will also have a tie-up with some of the textile industry owners who would act as a trustee for smooth functioning of the textile hub.

The Textile Hub will also provide a space for promoting the authentic Solapuri textiles which will attract the tourist. There will be workshops to develop the skill and conduct seminars to understand the marketing strategies.

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2.0 HISTORY

Chapter 2: History

2.1 History:

2.2 Mill Sector:

The history of Solapur textile industry is related with the Padmashali weavers who were originally from south India. This unique weaving technique is developed by their ancestors. The weavers developed this technique in south India and came to Solapur for trading purposes. This was about a hundred years ago. When the weavers had set up their industries here, they got a positive response from the people living here so subsequently the weavers migrated to Solapur with their families and the Solapur Textile Industry was setup. The textiles manufactured here are known for their quality and long life. When people from southern India, migrated here they first had set up the spinning mills for the cotton textiles. At that time these mills were working manually and labours were required on a large scale. The labours were working from sunrise to sunset and they were paid their wages in every week. The main motive of mills was to supply good quality yarn to all the types of handlooms and power looms. First the products were manufactured using the handloom equipment’s and later on powerlooms came into practice. Almost all Padmashali houses had one or two looms which were generally handled by the head of the family. The family was the unit of work and the women and the children helped the weaver in preparatory processes and in some cases in dyeing also.

The mills were established in Solapur after the migration of the weavers from southern India. “Solapur spinning and Weaving Mills” popularly known as “Juni Giri” is the oldest mill in Solapur which is established on 28th Decemeber, 1876 in the Juni mill area.

The main aim of the mill was to supply good quality yarn. The mill worked in shift duties, one from morning 8 to evening 4 and from evening 4 to midnight 12. Mill employed both male and female workers. At that time most of the outsiders were trying to setup their textile industries in Solapur because of availability of cheap labour and low cost of the cotton and other raw material. The mills were closed before independance. Following were the four important mills working at that time; Narsing Girji Mill: Narsing Girji mill was one of the oldest and biggest mill in the continent of Asia which was established i the year 1898. Up to the year 1905 the mill undertook the production of cotton yam while in 1906 a number of spindles and looms were installed in the mill.

The mill was closed down in 1957 due to losses and about 4,500 labourers lost their jobs.

The Government therefore intervened in the management of the mill and administered it with the Co-operation of workers.

Laxmi Cotton Mill: Laxmi cotton mill was established in the year 1898 in the southern part of the city.

Laxmi—Vishnu is the only mill undertaking modernization of machinery and production with the help ofmedium term finance from Maharashtra State Industrial and Investment Corporation. All required physical features facilities were available, but due to economic crises the mill was closed since 1995.

Vishnu Cotton Mill: The Vishnu cotton mill was established on First July 1910, under the management of M/s Bombay Co. Pvt. Ltd. in the Southern part of the city. There were 1,495 looms and 54,280 spindles and over two thousand workers were working in this mill. It was one ofthe successful mills. But due to economic crises it was also closed down since 1995

Fig 8: Migration of Padmashali weavers Source: Author

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Jam Shri Ranjitsingh Spinning And Weaving Mill: Jam Shri Ranjitsingh Spinning And Weaving Mill was established in the year 1909, in the Damani Nagar area of Solapur. In 1961, it operated 512 looms and 22,132 spindles and 1800 workers are employed. The mill produced superior quality products. The production of the mill was confined to cotton yarn till 1926. The mill is having 30,000 total spindles and 512 looms. The mill produced beam product, yarn cones and cotton cloth, polyester cloth etc. The modernization of the production process i.e. from spinning to processing had been completed in 1986. The mill provides employment too nearly to 18000 workers.

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Chapter 2: History

2.3 Growth and development of Solapur textile industry: Solapur is an important centre of cotton textile industry ever since the third quarter of the nineteenth century. After the migration of Padmashali weavers from southern India to Solapur, they first had setup textile mills in the city for converting yarn into bobbins and single/double thread. This mill provided employment for large number of labourers/workers and the handloom weavers were dependent on the supply of yarn on the mills of the Solapur city.

The first organized industry to be started in the district was the cotton textile mill, which was established in 1877. It is noteworthy that people from outside the city owns all the textile mills, powerlooms and handlooms in Solapur city. In the year 1860, railways were developed which facilitated the establishmentof cotton textile mills. Railways provided a convenient means of transport to the Ekruk Lake, which made available a sufficient water supply to cotton crop, which eventually resulted an increase in cotton cultivation. The map indicates the distribution of mills in Solapur district.

In the year 1903, there were three cotton mills which employed 4360 people. By the year 1911, the number of mills increased to five which employed 9360 people, this year witnessed an increase in handling of looms and spindles. In 1921 there were six cotton mills which employed to 17,132. In 1951 there were seven cotton mills at Solapur city and employed 40,922 workers. By the year 1961, eight large scale cotton textile mills were setup and numerous small scale mills were developed. The eight large units employed 19,651 workers and the small units employed 1,818 worker. In 1971, there were 128 registered factories undertaking spinning weaving and finishing of textiles in Solapur city. In 1981, there were four large-scale composite textile mills situated in Solapur. All these mills together provided employment to about 15,000 workers.

Fig 9: Distribution of spinning mills in Solapur district.

Source: Author

The existence of a number of mills led to the development of Solapur into a very big yam market. The market gets its supplies from two sources, of these the most important source constitutes the local spinning and weaving mills. The Vishnu Cotton Mill and Laxmi Cotton Mill have their own guarantee brokers in Solapur. These brokers guarantee that a particular limit and the mills might deal with him to that extent. The group consisting of Solapur mills. The Raja Narsingji Giijee Mill and the Jam Mill who has no guarantee brokers and were dealing with their customers directly The other source of yarn supplies were from Barshi, Madurai and sometimes Gokak and Coimbatore mills. The goods are imported by rail and wherever convenient by motor trucks.

Around 1947, this mill was closed down resulting into a serious set back to the textile working community in Solapur. In order to solve their employment problem, the skilled workers form Juni Mill purchased the old powerlooms of the said mill and started manufacturing varieties of products.

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Fig 10: Graph indicating the growth of mill sector over the years Source: Author

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2.3 Factors leading to growth and development of Solapur textile industry:

Factors:

The following factors are responsible for the growth and development of Solapur textile industry: 1. Climatic conditions: оо The climate of solapur is favourable for the growth of the cotton, because the climate here is hot and dry throughout the year. оо The days are hot and nights are cold which favours the growth of cotton. оо Due to easy availability of raw materials and large scale growth of cotton, textile industries are located in Solapur and its surrounding areas.

2. Cheap Labour: оо Cheap labour is another factor responsible for growth of the textile industries here. оо Cheap and skilled labour are available in Solapur in large number.

3. Easy availability of required Raw Material: оо Due to easy availability of the cotton, the mills make quality yarn on a larger scale. оо These mills supply the strengthened yarn to various industries in the city.

4. Low cost production: оо The cheap labour, raw material and favourable climatic conditions has lead to low cost of production of chaddars in Solapur.

5. Production Pattern: оо The production pttern in the city ranges from manufacturing, chaddars, terry towels, bedsheets and napkins. оо Almos 70% looms manufacture chaddar and remaining 30% looms manufacture the remaining products.

Fig 11: Factors leading to growth and development of Solapur textile industry Source: Author

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25

Chapter 2: History

2.5 Handloom and Powerloom: Handloom:

Handloom is a process in which the loom that is used to weave the cloth is done without the use of any electricity. Handloom towels are mostly plain in colour and occasional strips and checks pattern.

Handloom is an old process which originated before 100 years. Before rapid growth and industrialization, the textiles were manufactured through the process of ‘handlooms’ in which the product is manufactured manually and no machine was used.

Handloom is a slow process and number of products manufactured in a day was less but the quality of handloom products was better than power loom, this is the reason why the cost of the products manufactured in a handloom sector is more than power loom.

As the process is manual the quantity of production per day is less but the quality is more durable than power looms. As the process is slow, cost is high.

Powerloom: Powerloom is the recent version which has originated in 1950s which is a mechanized process. After rapid urbanization and industrialization, machines took place of man and ‘power loom’ sector came into practice.

The power loom sector depends upon the mill sector for supply of yarn. As power loom is a mechanized process there is more possibility of design and patterns. It produces mass quantity in short period of time.

As large number of products are manufactured the cost of product is less compared to handloom products. Power loom has led to complete shift in textile industry. Power loom not only manufactured chaddars, but also terry towels and napkins, etc.

Concentration of powerloom units is mainly in Ichalkaranji, Bhivandi, Malcgaon, Salem, Surat, Solapur etc. Ichalkaranji and Solapur has the largest number of looms and are considered as the major production centers of powerloom textiles.

Fig 12: Handloom equipment Source: Handloom machine Fig 13: Powerloom equipment Source: Author

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27

Chapter 2: History

Fig 14: Handloom and Powerloom comparison Source: Author

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3.0 LITERATURE REVIEW

Chapter 3: Literature Review

Literature Review: The purpose of the literature review is to understand the working pattern of the Solapur Textile Industry. This study will further help to analyse the data and cater to the issues faced by the textile industry. There has been quite amount of study in the form of articles, documents, books, etc which give a brief study of Solapur textiles. An attempt is made in this part of the research study to give a brief amount of research literature related to the topic of the present research work.

3.1 Article about Handloom vs Power loom: This article is a comparison between the handloom sector and the power loom sector. This article classifies the textile industry into organized sector and decentralized sector.

Organized sector: Cotton textile mills, spinning and weaving mills, non-cotton mills.

Decentralized sector: Handlooms and Powerlooms.

The article highlights the growth of powerlooms during 1950s due to the operational advantages. After industrialization there was an increased use of machinery where it replaces man to a certain extent. Ichalkaranji and Solapur has the largest number of looms and are considered as the major production centers of powerloom textiles. Due to the growth of powerlooms the production of cloth by mill sector has declined. The comparison states that power loom products are cheaper compared to handlooms but, on the other hand handloom products are more durable. But most of the consumers are attracted towards the cheaper quality products and are ready to compromise on the quality of the product. This leads to enormous growth of powerlooms.

3.2 Power loom Industry in Solapur: Challenges and Barriers in its Growth: - By Prof. Pralhad Prakash Joshi In this article Prof. Pralhad has highlighted the major challenges faced by the power loom industry in Solapur and the barriers in its growth and improvement. This article highlights the effects of liberalization and globalization on the powerloom industry of India. The products like chaddars, towels, napkins, etc are manufactured in the powerloom sector of Solapur which have a huge demand on the global scale. The most common issue which is faced by the owners of the textile industry is lack of marketing strategy so, there is always a need of a middle person for conversation. They do not have proper trading knowledge.

The labour strikes not only hamper to the functioning of the industry but also hamper their lifestyle. Further Prof. Pralhad speaks about the lack of infrastructure, power cuts, lack of working capital, etc adversely impact the marketing strategy of the textile industry.

To deal with this issue the MIDC association of Solapur should take the measures to guide the owners and should introduce them to new technologies. In the Textile hub, workshops can be taken to guide the owners. Also, there can be workshops for labours where they can be introduced to the government and welfare schemes which will be beneficial for them. Labours could be made aware of investment strategies for their families. Also, there can be spaces where the industrialist can promote their products not only to the local public but also to the tourists.

The powerloom sector doesn’t provide the required employment to the workers as most of the work is done by the machines, whereas the handlooms provide the much-needed employment. This thesis aims to provide a space for textile hub wherein it promotes the products made by the handloom sector and carry forward the legacy of the families. To manufacture products made by the handloom sector skilled workers are required. So accordingly, spaces will be provided for the workers to learn and earn. For working of the textile hub, it needs to have a tie up with the MIDC association and some well-known textile industrialist for its smooth functioning.

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4.0 RESEARCH METHADOLOGY

Chapter 4: Research Methodology

4 Process:

4.1 Yarn Production The existence of a number of mills led to the development of Solapur into a very big yam market. The market gets its supplies from the local spinning and weaving mills.

Fig 16: Yarn production Source: Author

Fig 17: Yarn production Source: Author

4.2 Yarn Doubling: In the Doubling process, thin single yarn is converted to double yarn for strengthening the yarn by using doubling machine. The single thread is twisted and rounded for gaining more strength.

Fig 18: Yarn doubling machine Source: Author

Fig 19: Yarn doubling machine Source: Author

4.3 Dyeing: There are two types of dyeing processes viz. Hank Dyeing and Cone Dyeing.

Fig 15: Process of production Source: Author

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Chapter 4: Research Methodology

4.3A Hank Dyeing:

4.4 Winding:

In hank dyeing initially, the yarn is soaked in soap water for 24 hours to remove the dirt and other foreign materials and after soaking, the yarn is taken for bleaching.

Bleaching is carried out by soaking the yarn in tanks mixed with bleaching agents and after completion of the process; the yarn is washed with normal water. Some export quality yarns are soaked in a 40degree Celsius water. The hank dyeing chemicals and dyeing agents are added. The temperature of the water is raised by oil circulation or direct steam injection. The required colours are added to the yarn and the dyeing process takes about 90 to 120 minutes per batch. After dyeing, the yarn is washed with normal water, and the yarn is taken for soaping for colour fixation in hot water for about 20 minutes in hang dyeing machines. The water is drained to the waste drainage lines. The wet yarn is taken to hydro extractors for removing the water in the yarn and taken for drying in the natural sunlight.

After hank dyeing, sorting of coloured yarn is done. The yarn after drying is taken for winding in which the yarn is wounded to bobbins and cones. The winded yarn is taken for further process. In cone dyeing, yarn is wound to the bobbins before the dyeing process.

Fig 25: Winding machine Source: Author

Fig 26: Winding machine Source: Author

4.5 Warping:

Fig 20: Hank dyeing Source: Author

In warping, the winded yarn is wound to beams according to designed pattern (customized designs). Then the beams are taken for weaving. If a towel has two types of colours, then it requires two types of beams. It is called as bhingri in local language.

Warping requires a different machine. If a particular industry doesn’t have a warping machine, then, they send their metal beams and material to different factories for warping.

Fig 21: Hank dyeing Source: Author

4.3B Cone Dyeing: In cone dyeing, the cone or bobbins is directly used for dyeing. Cone dyeing requires a different machine. In the machine, bleaching agent, colours are added. After the dyeing is complete, the cones are taken to drying machine for the drying of cones/ bobbins.

Fig 27: Warping machine Source: Author

Fig 22: Cone dyeing machine Source: Author

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Fig 23: Cone dyeing machine Source: Author

Fig 28: Warping machine Source: Author

Fig 24: Cone dyeing machine Source: Author

39

Chapter 4: Research Methodology

4.6 Weaving:

Images:

The beams, which are wound with yarn are taken and placed in power looms where the designed pattern is already set in Jacquard. In power looms, the yarn is converted to final product (Towel or bed sheets) by weaving. Maximum two persons can handle two power looms. The design is already set in the Jacquard Punching. The power looms are one of the most important equipment in producing of cotton terry towels and bed sheets.

The power looms are used for weaving the dyed yarn to towels and bed sheets. Present electricity consumption in power loom machine is 33.6 kWh and connected with 1.0 HP motor. The average production is 48 kg per day per machine.

Fig 32: Kalatex Industry, Solapur Source: Author

Fig 29: Powerloom machies Source: Author

4.7 Stitching and Packaging: After weaving the product is send for cutting, stitching, labelling and packing. The product is cut into standard sizes and packed with 100 pieces per pack. Now the product is completely ready to dispatch.

Fig 30: Pakaging department Source: Author

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Fig 31: Production of towels Source: Author

Fig 33: Kalatex Industry, Solapur Source: Author

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Chapter 4: Research Methodology

4.8 Issues: 1. Noise made by the powerloom machine: оо Powerloom machines make lots of noise. оо To avoid the walls should be insulated with acoustical material to absorb the material. оо The thickness of the wall should be increased.

6. оо оо оо

Economic problem of labours: Need of a space where labours can learn and earn.

Proper guidance/workshop required for them.

Some labours take the waste material left from the towels, chaddars etc, and make artifacts out of them. оо They should be given a platform for this and marketing skills required.

2. An alternative for steel construction: оо In a city like Solapur, with extreme climatic conditions, steel construction doesn’t withstand in such a location. оо Steel structure absorbs a lot of heat, leading to lot of heat transmission inside the space. оо Some industries use fans to keep heat out, but does it actually work? оо Use of thermal insulation can help to solve this issue.

3. оо оо оо

How can structure withstand dynamic loads?

Industries are not only subjected to statice loads but also to the dynamic loads.

The continuous use of machines leads to the vibration.

Vibration of machine leads to sagging and hogging which leads to cracking of concrete and reduces the life span of the structure. оо So, there is a need to avoid tension in the concrete. оо For this pre-stressed concrete should be used which will minimize the effects of vibration. оо Pre-stressed and pre-cast construction can be effective in such a case.

4. How can structure withstand huge risk to fire? оо Fire insurance needed. оо Proper wear and tear of machines needs to be done and precaution needs to be taken to avoid fire like situation. оо Provision of breathing space for cross ventilation. оо Clear pathway and exit ways should be designed accordingly. оо Use flame-retardant materials in interiors. оо Installation of smoke detectors and fire alarms, etc.

5. Safety of labours: оо Even if the labour is a skilled person there can be situations where he/she can cause serious injury to their hands and fingers. оо Some spaces are too much enclosed with no ventilation and there is lot of dust in such spaces due to yarn which leads to breathing issues. оо Use of proper masks and handgloves before using chemical colours. оо As labours work for a long period of time in the powerloom department, it would be harmful for their ears as the powerloom machine makes lot of noise. оо Measures need to be taken to avoid this.

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Chapter 4: Research Methodology

Fig 34: Issues faced by the textile industry Source: Author

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Chapter 4: Research Methodology

4.9 Activity Mapping in Textile Industry:

4.10 Activity Mapping in Textile Hub:

Fig 35: Activity mapping in textile industry Source: Author

Fig 36: Activity mapping in textile hub Source: Author

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Chapter 4: Research Methodology

4.11 User Analysis:

4.12 Organizers and Stakeholders:

The project aims to caters a wide range of users from educators, learners to the visitors. The users are divided into primary, secondary and tertiary users depending upon their working pattern and usage.

The key organizers and stakeholders for the smooth functioning of the textile hub can be the,

Primary Users:

оо оо оо оо

Government.

MIDC Association.

Solapur Zillha Yantramag Dharak Sangha.

Industrialists.

Currently, only the Solapur Zillha Yantramag Dharak Sangha is an association which helps the factory owners and the workers with certain schemes and marketing strategies for promoting their textiles at global level. This association involves a general body made up of well-known industrialists and government.

Fig 37: Primary users Source: Author

Secondary Users:

In the proposed Textile Hub, the government and MIDC association will play a key role in functioning of the hub by providing government schemes and marketing strategies for the industrialists.

The well-known industrialists will act as a trustee to the textile hub and will help in conducting workshops for promoting the Solapur textiles, the designers will conduct workshops and seminars for textile fabric textures and design. This will help the local people for developing different skills and learning, earning in same space.

Fig 38: Secondary users Source: Author

Tertiary Users:

Fig 39: Tertiary users Source: Author

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Chapter 4: Research Methodology 2. Twister cum Doubler:

4.13 Skills: 1. Handloom Weaver: A handloom weaver is the one who weaves various types of fabrics and artistic textiles by hand using a handloom machine. A weaver can weave basic weaves- Plain and its variations, using different kinds of yarns cotton/wool/silk on a fly-shuttle or throw-shuttle handloom. The job requires the weaver to weave the basic weaves on the loom as per pattern or design provided.

Learning: оо Process of manufacturing the textiles. оо Carry out pre-weaving activities. оо Learn and be familiar to the loom machine. оо Contribute to achieve quality in handloom weaving. оо Maintain work area tools and machines in Handloom Sector. оо Working in a team in handloom sector. оо Maintain health, safety and security at work place in handloom sector.

The person is responsible for twisting and doubling the yarn to improve yarn uniformity, abrasion resistance, tenacity and flexural endurance by ensuring health, safety and security, and complying with the workplace requirements. The person can either work as a freelancer or seek employment in a cooperative/organization.

Learning: оо Process of manufacturing the textiles. оо After the course the person can be able to carry out twisting or doubling for multi-fold yarn. оо Maintain work area tools and machines in Handloom Sector. оо Comply with work place requirements in handloom sector.

The total duration of course is 300 hours.

Fig 43: Twisting yarn for more strength Source: Author

Fig 40: Pre-weaving Activity Source: Author

Fig 42: Handloom equipment Source: Author

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Fig 44: Twisting of the strengthen yarn to bobbins Source: Author

Fig 41: Learning to operate the handloom machine Source: Author

Fig 45: Doubling machine Source: Author

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Chapter 4: Research Methodology 3. Handloom Warper:

4. Hank Dyeing:

A warper is a job-role in a weaving preparatory department. The responsibility of a warper is to run the warping machine efficiently so as to get maximum output with minimum defects giving due importance to safety and environment aspects under the supervision of weaver. Besides, he is responsible to carry out other activities like calculating raw material requirement, creeling, doffing of warp yarns, etc.

The Dyer is a job role responsible for dyeing of yarns of different types of fibre origins like cotton, viscose, wool, silk to synthetic materials either with traditional methods with little automation to specially developed hank dyeing machines. The dyed materials are expected to match with standard shades for hue, tone as well as conform to requirements for desired level of fastness.

Learning: оо Carry out the warping activities such as material receiving, preparation, warping, labelling and storing of weaver’s beam. оо Maintain work area, tools and machines as per guidelines. оо Follow greening and energy conservation activit0ies as per guidelines. оо Follow protocols and guidelines for health, safety and security at workplace. оо Communicate and work effectively in a team. оо Comply with organizational and industry standards. оо Adhere to adaptability protocols and measures.

Learning: оо After the course the person can be able to carry out twisting or doubling for multi-fold yarn. оо Maintain work area tools and machines in Handloom Sector. оо Comply with work place requirements in handloom sector.

The total duration of course is 300 hours.

The total duration of course is 300 hours.

Fig 50: Colouring and bleaching Source: Author

Fig 46: Warping of yarn from bobbins to beams Source: Author

Fig 48: Warping Beams Source: Author

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Fig 51: Hank dyeing of yarn Source: Author

Fig 47: Warping of yarn from bobbins to beams Source: Author

Fig 49: Warping Beams Source: Author

Fig 52: Hank dyeing tanks Source: Author

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Chapter 4: Research Methodology 5. Jacquard Power loom Operator:

6. Sectional Warping Machine Operator:

An operator of a Power Loom is a job-role in the weaving department. The responsibility of the power loom operator is to run the loom efficiently so as to get maximum output with minimum fabric defects, giving due importance to safety and environment aspects.

A Sectional Warping Machine Operator is a job role in the weaving department of a textile mill for carrying out warping activity using a sectional warping machine efficiently to get maximum output with minimum defects, giving due importance to safety and environmental aspects. The operator should be able to prepare, operate the sectional warping machine, knot the broken ends and prepare warpers beam by ensuring safety and security protocols at the work place.

Learning: оо Taking charge of shift and handing over of shift to power loom operator. оо Maintain work area, tools and machines. оо Working in a team. оо Maintain health, safety and security at work place. оо Comply with industry and organizational requirement.

The total duration of course is 300 hours.

Learning: оо A• Introduction to weaving mill, position and responsibilities of a sectional warping machine operator. оо Taking charge and handing over of shift to sectional warping machine operator. оо Prepare sectional warping machine for production. оо Operate the sectional warping machine. оо Maintaining the work area, tools and machines. оо Greening and energy conservation in the textile sector. оо Health, safety, and response to emergencies at the workplace. оо Organizational standards and policies.

The total duration of course is 300 hours.

Fig 53: Handling of Powerloom machine Source: Author

Fig 54: Sorting of prepared products Source: Author

Fig 56: Placing the bobbins Source: Author

Fig 56: Connecting bobbins to warping machines.

Source: Author

Fig 55: Powerloom machine Source: Author

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Chapter 4: Research Methodology 7. Winding Tenter:

8. Textile Designer- Jacquard:

A Winding Tenter is responsible for carrying out tenting activities in winding machine. A Winding Tenter should be able to replenish the feed material, attend the malfunctions, perform doffing and carry out routine cleaning activities and ensure defect free cones are produced in winding machine.

The Textile designer - Jacquard is responsible for developing design using the motif samples or references received from the clients involved in textile manufacturing. The individual may use references from designing books and develop design on the graph paper manually or on computers using different CAD software. The designer needs to note down the preference of the end user in terms of design parameters. The individual is also responsible for sharing the final design to the card puncher for punching jacquard cards.

Learning: оо Taking charge of shift and handing over of shift to power loom operator. оо Maintain work area, tools and machines. оо Working in a team. оо Maintain health, safety and security at work place. оо Comply with industry and organizational requirement.

The total duration of course is 300 hours.

Learning: оо Develop jacquard design manually or by using CAD software. оо Maintain work area and tools in handloom sector. оо Working in a team in handloom sector. оо Maintain health, safety and security at work place in handloom sector. оо Comply with work place requirements in handloom sector.

The total duration of course is 300 hours.

Fig 60: Learning basics of design Source: Author

Fig 57: Sorting of prepared products Source: Author

Fig 61: Practcing on software Source: Author

Fig 58: Winding yarn to bobbins Source: Author

Fig 59: Wounding Machine Source: Author

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Chapter 4: Research Methodology 9. Sewing Machine Operator:

10. Handicraft:

A Sewing Machine Operator, also called a ‘Stitcher or Machinist’ is an important job-role associated with Apparel sector. The primary responsibility of a machinist is to stitch/ sew fabric, fur, or synthetic materials to produce apparels.

In handicraft, people will be taught making best objects out of waste materials from the textile industry. Fabric bags, mobile covers, lanterns, etc will be made up of the waste fabric.

Learning: оо Carry out stitching activities using machine or by hand. оо Contribute to achieve product quality in stitching operations. оо Maintain work area, tools and machine. оо To learn the techniques to tie thread.

Learning: оо Segregating the waste fabric. оо Identification of possible objects that can be made. оо Handicraft techniques. оо Designing skills.

The total duration of course is 270 hours.

The total duration of course is 200 hours.

Fig 62: Stitching Workshop Source: Author

Fig 62: Practicing stitching Source: Author

Fig 63: Learning handicraft techniques Source: Author

Fig 63: Handicraft Workshop Source: Author

Fig 64: Textile products Source: Author

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5.0 CASE STUDY

Chapter 5: Case Study

5.1 Ganga Maki Textile Studio, Village Punniwala, Dehradun.

- Studio Mumbai Architects.

Of the four studios, the one designed for Maki is distinctive, not linked to the others, the structure is built with bamboo frames, plastered with mud mixed with dung and covered by a transparent roof with a bamboo trellis beneath, resembling an eloquent earthen house. It is designed specifically for her use while the others are more collective.

Maki’s studio accommodates a few looms, with a long, sliced log serving as a table. She develops designs here be-fore they are converted by the weavers into exquisite fabrics in the adjacent workshops.

North of the central courtyard are the blocks housing the dyeing workshop, guest dining and other amenities. Right at the top of the campus sits the owner and guest residences. At the entrance, a gallery invites visitors; this double-height space is covered by a translucent white marble roof that sits atop walls plastered by local craftspeople after they were trained by the Japanese and Swiss artisans who had created samples for the interior and exterior.

Fig 64: Ganga Maki Textile Studio Source: z

Location: Bhogpur, 30kms from Dehradun, Uttarakhand.

Area: 1300 sq.m Typology: Textile Studio Year: July 2016 The Ganga Maki Textile Studio is built on the slopes of the foothills of the Himalayas in Uttarakhand. Designed on a fragile terrain, the studio and its ancillary structures are sited naturally and effortlessly on the lay of the land. Built with the assistance of the resident community, the beautifully crafted architecture does not overpower the landscape and yet, stands expressively distinct in the context and built with immediately available materials, workmanship and resources, the buildings provide a dignity of a workspace.

Overview: The four L-shaped studios where weavers and craftspeople make handwoven fabrics and garments. The L-shaped studios are arranged around a courtyard, the simple rectangular boxes are buttressed on one side by a narrow storage and service space, and on the other by a slightly elevated workspace. The main spaces are made of bricks, finished with lime, covered by asbestos-free cement sheet roofs, and paved with stone floors. Adjacent work areas have stone slab roofs and lime floors. Earthy and comfortable, the studios accommodate weavers, mostly men who sit at their looms in the central, sky-lit area. Women who knit, stitch and spin yarns use the raised workspace.

Fig 65: Plan of Ganga Maki Textile Studio Source: http://www.gangamaki.com/

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Chapter 5: Case Study

Fig 66: Internal workshop spaces Source: http://www.gangamaki.com/

Fig 68: Internal workshop spaces Source: http://www.gangamaki.com/

Inferance: The Ganga Maki textile studio has spaces where people enjoy and intend to work because of the space quality. Currently, the workspaces where labours and weavers work are very dark and dingy.

Gangs Maki textile studio has gained value because of how the materials are used in keeping with their intrinsic character and purpose. The spaces have a hierarchy from public to private where people can work and also relax. The building is designed to emerge from the site and its context. Ganga Maki Textile Studio uses the existing context as open terraces where they cultivate indigo. The arrangement of the plan with a clear logic generates a calm spatial experience. The aesthetic quality of the architecture is rendered by a dignified workmanship, which offers integrity to the place. While working in rural and peri-urban landscapes, it is important for architecture to neither overpower, nor be overpowered by the place.

Providing such spaces will not only enhance workability of the Solapur textile weavers, but also enhance interaction. The quality of space increases when people occupy it, which can be seen in the Ganga Maki textile studio. The proposed project intends to provide such type of spaces which enhances community discussions and interaction.

Fig 67: Internal workshop spaces Source: http://www.gangamaki.com/

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Chapter 5: Case Study

5.2 The Calico Museum of Textiles, Ahmedabad.

- Sarabhai Foundation.

Fig 69:Calico Textile Museum Source: https://www.calicomuseum.org/

Location: Ahmedabad, Gujarat Area: 1000 sq.m Typology: Historic Textile Museum Year: 1949 The Calico Museum of Textiles, located in the Shahibaug area of Ahmedabad is the Indias premier textile museum. Its collection of Indian textiles is the most finest and comprehensive in the world. The textiles along with Sarabhai Foudations outstanding collection of South Indian bronzes, Vaishnava picchavais, Jain art, and miniature paintings, are housed here. The foundation conducts a daily museum tour of the collections and offers an extensive range of textile and other publications.

The Calico Museum of Textiles was inspired by the pioneering art historian and philosopher Dr. Ananda Coomaraswamy. It was his suggestion to Gautam Sarabhai, chairman of Calico Mills of Ahmedabad, that a textile museum and an institute be founded in city as it has been Indias leading textile production and trade centers since the 15th century. The items on display are well protected by the museum authorities. The textile are protected from dust, air pollution and fluctuations in temperatures by the trees around the museum complex. The relative humidity inside the museum is also controlled and lights are dimmed between visiting hours to extend the life of the textiles It has a complex of buildings around an old swimming pool, which were enlarged and enhanced with carved wooden facades sourced from traditional Gujarati mansions of the region, all set around courtyard or chauk. It has two wings viz. The Haveli, in which were housed religious textiles, as well as south Indian bronzes, Jaina art, and Mughal and other miniature paintings and, the Chauk, which housed royal tents, carpets, furneshings and costumes of the Mughal and regional courts; textiles for Indias export trade; as well as a wide range of ethnographic textiles.

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Fig 70: Internal spaces Source: https://www.calicomuseum.org/

Fig 71: Courtyard Source: https://www.calicomuseum.org/

Inferance:

The museum attracts large number of tourists of Ahamdabad because of the famous textiles which are made here.

The history and heritage of Ahamadabad textiles is maintained in the museum. The museum is divide into two parts, one which portrates the textiles of Ahamadabad and other is the haveli. The courtyard over here acts as a chowk. Toursts visit here for not only seeing the textiles of Ahamadabad but also to see the historical haveli. The museum has played an important role in determining the curriculum taught in the textile designing courses at the prestigious National Institute of Design located in Ahmedabad.

Providing a space in the proposed Textile Hub will give the Solapuri textiles a value on larger scale. It will promote the textiles and maintain the heritage and art of the Padmashali weavers of Solapur.

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Chapter 5: Case Study

5.3 Khamir Craft Resource Centre, Kutch

The project is known across Kutch for its exploration of architecture, appropriate to the local way of life and work. The unconventional gestures in architecture and construction offer a subtle relief, introducing lightness and porosity in the plan. A stark overlay of details and a carefully planned landscape, the architecture practices restraint in the vernacular poetics of the overall built-environment by engaging in what is already known to create a contemporary, utilitarian space that does not romanticise the village.

Fig 72: Khamir Craft Resource Centre Source: https://www.khamir.org/

Location: Kutch, Gujarat Area: 2200 sq.m Typology: Resource Centre Year: 2017 Khamir is a platform for crafts, heritage and cultural ecology of Kachchh region of Gujarat. It is instituted after the earthquake of 2001; it is a space for engagement and development of Kachchh’s rich creative industries.

Fig 73: Khamir Craft Resource Centre Plan Source: https://www.khamir.org/

Overview: Khamir was designed to promote the handicrafts made by the local artists. It is platform for learning and promoting the art of Kutch. The handicrafts which are made here are, Ajrakh blockprint, Bandhani, Batik print, Bela printing, Camel wool weaving, Embroidery, Kachchh weaving, Kala cotton, Khared weaving, Knife work, Lacquered wood, Leather art, Mashru weaving, Metal balls, Nanda, Pottery, Recycled plastic weaving, Rogan paints, Silversmithy and Wood carving. These arts are promoted in Kutch which have gained recognition all over India.

The courtyards of Khamir are planned similar to the courtyards in the houses such that it has both semi-covered, covered and internal courtyards which are connected to each other which becomes the major activity areas. The use of local materials and appropriate construction techniques, the finished surfaces receive and reflect a familiar light. The mud walls when sprinkled with water, emanate a known fragrance and the thick rammed earth absorbs the sounds of working tools.

Fig 74: Khamir Craft Resource Centre Plan Source: https://www.khamir.org/

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Chapter 5: Case Study Inference: Khamir Craft Resource Centre is a platform which promotes the handicrafts of Kutch. It has given the local people an opportunity to learn and promote the art of Kutch, Gujarat.

It is a combination of similar style of masses and together for a unit to whole concept. A geometry is seen in its arrangement in height and proportion and the idea of addition and subtraction of a form. There is an interrelation between the built and unbuilt environment. The planning has a unique arrangement of mass and void which provides natural light and ventilation throughout the structure and a transition from public to private spaces. The courtyard provides a buffer space for the user.

In the proposed intervention the provision of sub-ordinate spaces will give a space for the labourers and weavers a buffer space from their work environment. They can have their breaks and an interaction spaces over here. It also enhances community interactions and functions in that space.

Fig 75: Diagrams of street Source: https://www.khamir.org/

Fig 76: Schematic section Source: https://www.khamir.org/

Fig 77: Courtyard spaces Source: https://www.khamir.org/

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6.0 PROPOSAL

Chapter 6: Proposal

6.1 Program Excel Sheet: The proposed program for the Textile Hub in Solapur will be beneficial for the Padmashali weavers of Solapur. It will create employment opportunities for the people.

Various skills will be taught for the enthusiast learners who can explore the skill here which will be helpful for them in future. This hub will be a platform for promoting the Solapuri textiles on the global scale. People will be learning and earning in the same space.

Fig 78: Program Table Source: Author

Fig 78: Program Table Source: Author

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7.0 SITE ANALYSIS

Chapter 7: Site Analysis

7.1 Site Selection Criteria:

7.2 Site Option 1: MIDC, Solapur

The site for the Textile Hub is selected in the city of Solapur most probably in the South Solapur because it is known as the Padmashali area. This area houses most of the Solapur weavers, and the labourers which will be very close for them to travel. Site is not selected in the heart of the city because in the central core there are lot of markets, offices, schools, etc which would get disturbed with the noise of the power loom machines. The heart of city is very dense and land rates are costlier here and also there will be no larger plots available in the heart of the city.

Accessibility: The selected site should have accessibility from minimum two roads because, there will be supply of raw materials by means of trucks and also the items will be transported to different places through tempos and trucks.

Connectivity: The selected site should have nearest connectivity with bus stop, auto rikshaw stand and railway station.

The power loom machines are more prone to short circuit and eventually leading to fire, so as a precaution the fire station should be in the near context and should be able to come to the site within five to ten minutes.

The site should have a near connection with one of the city hospitals because the workers/labourers are prone to severe injuries.

Context: The context should not be in the heart of the city because, it consists of local market, offices, schools, etc which may get disturbed with the noise of the power loom machines.

The site can be in the near outskirts where larger plots are available.

Fig 79: MIDC, Solapur Source: Google Earth

Location: MIDC, Solapur.

Area: 52,000 sq. m Pros: оо The selected site has access from all four sides. оо The surrounding context of the site are also factories and textile industries. оо The site is connected to the main road. оо As it is located in the MIDC area, the noise made by the power loom machines doesn’t disturb the residential user.

Cons: оо As the site is located in the MIDC area, the question that arises is that, will the local people or the tourist will come here? оо This site falls under the area of recreational ground i.e., RG in the MIDC area of Solapur so this site can’t be used further for design purpose.

Fig 80: MIDC, Solapur Image Source: Author

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Fig 81: MIDC, Solapur Board Source: Author

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Chapter 7: Site Analysis

7.3 Site Option 2: MIDC (Private Plots)

Fig 82: MIDC, Solapur Source: Google Earth

Fig 83: MIDC, Solapur Source: Google Earth

Site 2A Site 2B Location: MIDC, Solapur.

2A Site Area: 6936.41 sq. m 2B Site Area: 4065.19 sq. m Pros: оо Both the sites have accessibility from two sides. оо As these sites are located near the MIDC area, the surrounding context of the site are also factories and textile industries оо The noise made by the power loom machines doesn’t disturb the residential user Cons: оо These plots are owned by the private owners. оо Plots are of smaller sizes

Fig 84: MIDC, Solapur Image Source: Author

7.4 Site Option 3: Solapur Akkalkoat Highway Road

Fig 86: Solapur-Akkalkott Highway Road, Solapur Source: Google Earth

Location: Solapur-Akkalkot Highway Road, Solapur.

Area: 34,000 sq. m Pros: оо The site is connected to the Solapur-Akkalkot Highway Road. оо The site selected has access from two sides. оо The surrounding context of the site has minimum residential plots and most of the context is open. оо As it is located on the highway, the tourists who are travelling to Akkalkot or Hyderabad can easily visit the Textile Hub on their way.

Cons: оо The shape of the plot is uneven.

Fig 85: MIDC, Solapur Image Source: Author Fig 87: Solapur-Akkalkott Highway Road, Solapur Image Source: Author

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Fig 88: Solapur-Akkalkott Highway Road, Solapur Image Source: Author

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Chapter 7: Site Analysis

7.5 Site Option 4: Damani Nagar, Solapur

Site Option 4A: Damani Nagar, Solapur

Fig 90:Damani Nagar, Solapur Source: Google Earth

Location: Damani Nagar, Solapur.

Source: Google Earth Area: 74,470.69 sq. m Pros: оо The selected site has access from all four sides. оо The surrounding context of the site are houses of weavers and padmashali labourers. оо The site is connected to the main road.

Cons: оо The site has some residential users, markets and commercial activities. оо Area of site is too large.

Fig 89: Development Plan of Solapur Source: Development Plan of Solapur Fig 91: Damani Nagar, Solapur Image Source: Author

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Fig 92: Damani Nagar, Solapur Image Source: Author

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Chapter 7: Site Analysis

Site Option 4B: Damani Nagar, Solapur

Fig 93: Damani Nagar, Solapur Source: Google Earth

Location: Damani Nagar, Solapur.

Fig 96: Damani Nagar, Solapur Source: Google Earth

Area: 55,016.24 sq.

Pros: оо The selected site has access from all four sides. оо The surrounding context of the site are houses of weavers and padmashali labourers. оо The site is connected to the main road.

Cons: оо The site has some residential complex developing in it.

Fig 94: Damani Nagar, Solapur Image Source: Author

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Site Option 4C: Damani Nagar, Solapur

Fig 95: Damani Nagar, Solapur Image Source: Author

Location: Damani Nagar, Solapur.

Area: 1,29,376.38 sq. m Pros: оо The selected site has access from all four sides. оо The surrounding context of the site are houses of weavers and padmashali labourers. оо The site is connected to the main road. оо There was a Nursing Girji Mill located here which is closed now.

Cons: оо The site has some residential complex developing in it. оо Area of site is very large.

Fig 97: Damani Nagar, Solapur Image Source: Author

Fig 98: Damani Nagar, Solapur Image Source: Author

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Chapter 7: Site Analysis

Site Option 4D: Damani Nagar, Solapur

Fig 101: Damani Nagar, Solapur(Service Road) Source: Author

Fig 102: Damani Nagar, Solapur(Site) Source: Author

Fig 103: Damani Nagar, Solapur(Approach Road) Source: Author

Fig 104: Damani Nagar, Solapur(Approach Road) Source: Author

Fig 99: Damani Nagar, Solapur Image Source: Google Earth

Location: Damani Nagar, Solapur.

Area: 1,04, 478 sq. m Pros: оо The selected site has access from two sides. оо The surrounding context of the site are houses of weavers and padmashali labourers. оо The site is connected to the main road. оо Also, the once on this site the Laxmi-Vishnu Mill was placed which employed a lot of workers. оо The chimney in this site marks as a heritage for the site. оо Currently the site is an open plot with no upcoming development.

Cons: оо The area of site is too large.

Fig 100: Damani Nagar, Solapur(Selected Site) Source: Author

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Fig 101: Damani Nagar, Solapur(Approach Road) Source: Author

Fig 105: Damani Nagar, Solapur(Service Road) Source: Author

Fig 106: Damani Nagar, Solapur(Service Road) Source: Author

Fig 107: Damani Nagar, Solapur(Service Entrance) Source: Author

Fig 108: Damani Nagar, Solapur(Approach Road) Source: Author

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Chapter 7: Site Analysis

7.6 Site Justification: Sr.No Site

1 MIDC, Solapur

Selected Site: Conclusion This site falls under the RG area in MIDC, Solapur so this site cant be selected.

2 MIDC, Solapur (Private Plot 2A $ 2B) These are private owned sites with buit forms.

3 Solapur Akkalkoat Highway Road 4 Damani Nagar, Solapur 4A 5 Damani Nagar, Solapur 4B 6 Damani Nagar, Solapur 4C

This site is not in the city but in the outskirts, so this site is not selected.

This site has residential development in it so this site is not selected.

This site has residential development in it so this site is not selected.

This site has lots of green patch and residential development in it so this site is not selected.

This site is an open plot and has a chimney which

7 Damani Nagar, Solapur 4D

marks the presence of the mill working in the past, so this site is selected for further study.

Fig 108: Site Justification Source: Author

Site option 4D: Damani Nagar (Land Use)

Fig 109: Land Use Map Source: Author

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The site option 4D, which is located in Damani Nagar area of Solapur is selected for further study. Damani Nagar is also known as the padmashali area of the city. This site is located in the mill area of Solapur. The Laxmi-Vishnu mill which was one of the oldest mills in the city of Solapur was working here. Currently the site is an open plot which is an industrial land.

There is only a chimney standing on the site which was a part of the Laxmi-Vishnu mill earlier. In the Textile Hub, this chimney will mark as a heritage for the Laxmi-Vishnu mill which was functioning in the past.

The context has houses of the local weavers and the labourers and as the Textile Hub will be developed over here, it will be close for the local weavers and labourers to travel.

On the eastern side of the site, there are upcoming residential developments and also has the Narsing Girgi mill which was also a working in the past. On the western side there is a Reliance Market, functioning for the public.

The site has a near connectivity with the hospitals, bus stand, auto rickshaw stands and the railway station. The site has accessibility from two sides viz, the Degaon road on the north and a service road in the east.

Fig 110: Site Context Source: Author

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Chapter 7: Site Analysis

7.7 Climate Considerations: Solapur falls under dry climate and experiences extreme climatic conditions throughout the year. The summers here are from March to May. The monsoon lasts from June to the end of September and winter starts from November and lasts until the end of February.

From the above graph it is clear that Solapur experiences maximum temperatures in the month of April and May which is above 40 degree celsius. The highest temperature recorded is 46 degree celsius.

Windrose Diagram:

Average Temperature and Precipitation Months:

Fig 113: Windrose Diagram Source: Climate Consultant Fig 111: Avg Temp and Precp months Source: Climate Consultant

From the above graph it is clear that the city experiences hot days and cold nights.

The maximum precipitation is in the month of september and the city recieves an average rainfall of 545mm per year.

Maximum Temperatures:

From the above diagram it is clear that the wind direction is from south-west to north-east. The maximum wind speed is 28m/s.

Design Considerations: As Solapur falls under dry climate, specific design considerations need to be considered to cater to the extreme conditions.

The larger building dimensions should have a north-south orientation, which causes less direct sunlight entering the building. Internal courtyards and chowks need to be provided for cross ventilation and natural light. Internal courtyards with vegetation promote shade in that space, which enhances community interaction. More vegetation needs to be planted on the southern facade to shade it.

Larger openings on the northern side for maximizing indirect light and smaller openings on the southern side to minimize harsh sunlight should be provided. Transition buffer spaces need to be provided which has indirect light and ventilation which creates a pause point for the user.

Fig 112: Min Temp Source: Climate Consultant

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The building should have double wall with insulating materials in between which provides, cool environment in the interiors during the hot days and warm environment in the interiors during cold nights.

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Chapter 7: Site Analysis

7.8 Site Conditions

Design Vignettes

7.8 Site Conditions

Fig 113: Sun Path Author: Author

Fig 116: Site Area Author: Author

Fig 114: Wind Direction Author: Author

Fig 117: Setbacks Author: Author

Fig 115: Rainfall Author: Author

Fig 118: Neignbourhood and Context Author: Author

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Design Vignettes

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Chapter 7: Site Analysis

7.8 Site Conditions

Design Vignettes

7.8 Site Conditions

Fig 119: Pedestrian Pathway Author: Author

Fig 122: Manmade Features Author: Author

Fig 120: Vehicular Pathway Author: Author

Fig 123: Views Author: Author

Fig 121: Noise Author: Author

Fig 124: Trees Author: Author

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Design Vignettes

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Chapter 7: Site Analysis

7.9 Site Regulations:

7.10 S.W.O.C Analysis:

Location: The selected site is located in the Damani Nagar area of Solapur, which falls under the industrial reservation.

Area: The area of the site is 1,04, 478 sq.m.

Road width: The width of the approach road i.e., the Degaon road located on the north side is 15m.The width of the service road which is located on the eastern side is 9m.

F.S.I: The permissible F.S.I on the site is 1 and F.S.I on payment of premium is 0.4, so the maximum F.S.I permissible on the site is 1.4.

F.S.I consideration: FSI should be considered in outer periphery of the construction floor wise (P-line) including everything but excluding ducts, voids. The open balcony, double height terraces, etc. should be considered in FSI computation.

Built-up area: The built-up area of the site comes to be 1,46,269.2 sq.m.

Marginal open spaces: The minimum front, rear and side margins should be of 6m for easy accessibility of the fire truck and vehicular movement.

Floor height: The minimum floor height shall be 4.5m for industrial buildings but, greater heights maybe permitted as per the requirements and design considerations.

Parking: For every 100 sq.m. carpet area or fraction thereof 2 four-wheelers and 12 twowheelers with additional 20% visitor parking. An addition parking space for trucks needs to be provided.

Internal Roads: A pedestrian approach to the buildings from road / street / internal means of access, wherever necessary, shall be through paved pathway of width not less than 2.0 m. Internal roads should be of minimum 4.5m width, more width can be given according to design considerations.

Substation: One single transformer sub-station of the size of 5m.x 5m. and height of not more than 5m should be provided.

Powerloom: Power loom use shall be restricted up to maximum permissible floor area of 250 sq.m. with maximum 20 h.p and 20 labourers. Adequate safety measures shall be taken to reduce noise and air pollution etc. by providing vibration absorbing platform and dust settler.

Fire Protection: It should be planned according to the National Building Codes.

Building Services: It should be planned according to the National Building Codes.

Recreational Area:

Strength: оо The site is an open plot. оо The selected site is located in the mill area, also known as the padmashali area of the city which has houses of most of the labourers and textile weavers. оо The Degaon road is abutting the site from where people travel out of the city. So people can visit the Textile Hub while ongoing on their way. оо This site has near connectivity with all types of transportations. оо As site is located on the highway, there would be an influx of tourism.

Weakness: оо The site has patchy vegetation and grass grown allover. оо The shape of site is uneven. оо The site is away from the core of the city.

Opportunity: оо The selected site was once functioning as the Laxmi-Vishnu mill and the chimney marks as a sign of heritage for the mills and textile history of Solapur, so further development of site into the Textile Hub will develop оо As Reliance Market is on the western side of the site, whenever people visit it they may tend to visit the Textile Hub. Constraints: оо As there is an highway, it is an busy street which may cause congestion and traffic problems. оо During the rainy season, there are water logging problems on the roads. оо After having different types of machines over here, they would create a lot of noise which may disturb the residential user in the surrounding context.

Aminity Open Space: 10% of remaining area.

(All of the above details are referred from UDCPR-2020)

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8.0 CONCLUSION

Chapter 8: Conclusion

8. Conclusion: Initially, the idea of this dissertation was to study the functioning of textile industries in the city of Solapur and issues faced by them. The deeper study and research concluded that, even if the textiles of Solapur have a significant value in India, the city is somewhere lagging behind to maintain and promote the textiles which are made over here. The skills of the local weavers and handicraft items made by the artist don’t have a proper platform to teach and promote their art.

The proposed project i.e. The Textile Hub will do proper justification not only to the textiles made in the city of Solapur, but also to the people and weavers of the city who constantly work to manufacture the products which has marked its significance at the global market level. . It will help the Solapuri textile to get its brand quality on a larger scale.

After the success of the project, weavers will get a platform to teach the skill and promote their textiles, they will also be learning marketing strategies and carry forward their family legacy…...

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Biblography:

Appendix:

https://solapur.gov.in/en/history/ https://blessingsonthenet.com/travel-india/destination/tourist-attraction/id/310/solapur https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solapur https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solapur_district https://www.nationalskillsnetwork.in/indias-handloom-industry/ https://tradenews.co.in/ad/article/textile-fashion/an-in-depth-analysis-of-the-textile-industryof-solapur https://medium.com/@noopurshalini/textiles-of-india-d9f5e5310dc6 https://www.sahapedia.org/introduction-the-handlooms-of-maharashtra https://issuu.com/papanktipi/docs/pancha https://shodhganga.inflibnet.ac.in/handle/10603/134500 https://www.collegedekho.com/articles/textile-design-courses-in-india/ https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/2363/indian-textile-industry-an-overview http://texmin.nic.in/sites/default/files/AR_MoT_2019-20_English.pdf https://textilevaluechain.in/in-depth-analysis/articles/textile-articles/types-of-hand-loom/ https://issuu.com/krishnapatel156/docs/sujani_20weaving https://www.meteoblue.com/en/weather/historyclimate/climatemodelled/solapur_ india_1256436 https://www.scribd.com/presentation/322731948/Solapur-CDR-Ppt https://www.borderandfall.com/studio-mumbai-ganga-maki-progressive-weaving-studio https://themeritlist.com/projects/ganga-maki-textile-studio-citation/ https://www.architectural-review.com/buildings/ganga-maki-textile-studio-by-studiomumbai-craft-is-not-a-story-of-stagnation-but-of-sensible-emergence https://issuu.com/vinaykaushal014/docs/khamir_craft_resource_centre__kutch https://www.khamir.org/ https://architecturecasestudies.wordpress.com/2020/04/15/khamir-craft-resourcecentre-bhuj/ https://issuu.com/vinaykaushal014/docs/khamir_craft_resource_centre__kutch https://weatherspark.com/y/148986/Average-Weather-at-Sholapur-India-Year-Round https://www.indianclimate.com/show-data.php?request=GSW9NZ1PSD https://solapur.gov.in/en/industries/ https://www.academia.edu/33991471/Calico_Museum https://www.calicomuseum.org/the-story-of-the-calico-museum/

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1: Solapur as a transit city (Source: Author) 2: Chaddar (Source: Solapur Textiles) 3: Chaddar (Source: Solapur Textiles) 4: Bedsheet (Source: Solapur Textiles) 5: Sataranji (Source: Solapur Textiles) 6: Towels (Source: Solapur Textiles) 7: Terry Towels (Source: Solapur Textiles) 8: Migration of Padmashali Weavers (Source: Author) 9: Distribution of spinning mills in Solapur district (Source: Author) 10: Graph indicating the growth of mill sector over the years (Source: Author) 11: Factors leading to growth and development of Solapur textiles (Source: Author) 12: Handloom equipment (Source: Handloom machine) 13: Powerloom equipment (Source: Author) 14: Handloom and Powerloom comparison (Source: Author) 15: Process of Production(Source: Author) 16: Yarn Production (Source: Author) 17: Yarn Production (Source: Author) 18: Yarn Doubling Machine (Source: Author) 19: Yarn Doubling Machine (Source: Author) 20: Hank Dyeing (Source: Author) 21: Hank Dyeing (Source: Author) 22: Cone Dyeing Machine (Source: Author) 23: Cone Dyeing Machine (Source: Author) 24: Cone Dyeing Machine (Source: Author) 25: Winding Machine (Source: Author) 26: Winding Machine (Source: Author) 27: Warping Machine (Source: Author) 28: Warping Machine (Source: Author) 29: Powerloom Machine (Source: Author) 30: Packaging Department (Source: Author) 31: Production of Towels (Source: Author) 32: Kalatex Industry, Saolapur (Source: Author) 33: Kalatex Industry, Saolapur (Source: Author) 34: Issues faced by textile industry (Source: Author) 35: Activity mapping in textile industry (Source: Author) 36: Activity mapping in textile hub (Source: Author) 37: Primary Users (Source: Author) 38: Secondary Users (Source: Author) 39: Tertiary Users (Source: Author) 40: Pre-weaving activity (Source: Author) 41: Learning to operate the handloom machine (Source: Author)

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42: Handloom equipment (Source: Author) 43: Twisting yarn for more strength (Source: Author) 44: Twisting of the strengthen yarn to bobbins (Source: Author) 45: Doubling machine (Source: Author) 46: Warping of yarn from bobbins to beams (Source: Author) 47: Warping of yarn from bobbins to beams (Source: Author) 48: Warping beams (Source: Author) 49: Warping beams (Source: Author) 50: Colouring and bleaching (Source: Author) 51: Hank dyeing of yarn (Source: Author) 52: Hank dyeing tanks (Source: Author) 53: Handling of powerloom machine (Source: Author) 54: Sorting of prepared products (Source: Author) 55: Powerloom machine (Source: Author) 56: Placing the bobbins (Source: Author) 57: Sorting of prepared products (Source: Author) 58: Winding yarn to bobbins (Source: Author) 59: Wounding machine (Source: Author) 60: Learning basics of design (Source: Author) 61: Practicing on software (Source: Author) 62: Stitching Workshop (Source: Author) 63: Learning handicraft techniques and handicraft workshops (Source: Author) 64: Ganga Maki Textile Studio (Source: http://www.gangamaki.com/) 65: Plan of Ganga Maki Textile Studio (Source: http://www.gangamaki.com/) 66: Internal workshop spaces (Source: http://www.gangamaki.com/) 67: Internal workshop spaces (Source: http://www.gangamaki.com/) 68: Internal workshop spaces (Source: http://www.gangamaki.com/) 69: Calico textile museum (Source: https://www.calicomuseum.org/) 70: Internal Spaces (Source: https://www.calicomuseum.org/) 71: Courtyard (Source: https://www.calicomuseum.org/) 72: Khamir Craft Resource Centre (Source: https://www.khamir.org/) 73: Khamir Craft Resource Centre Plan(Source: https://www.khamir.org/) 74: Khamir Craft Resource Centre Plan (Source: https://www.khamir.org/) 75: Diagrams of street (Source: https://www.khamir.org/) 76: Schematic section (Source: https://www.khamir.org/) 77: Courtyard spaces(Source: https://www.khamir.org/) 78: Program Table (Source: Author) 79: MIDC, Solapur (Source: Google Earth) 80: MIDC, Solapur Image (Source: Author) 81: MIDC, Solapur Board (Source: Author) 82: MIDC, Solapur (Source: Google Earth) 83: MIDC, Solapur (Source: Google Earth)

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84: MIDC, Solapur Image (Source: Author) 85: MIDC, Solapur Image (Source: Author) 86: Solapur Akkalkot Highway Road, Solapur (Source: Google Earth) 87: Solapur Akkalkot Highway Road Image (Source: Author) 88: Solapur Akkalkot Highway Road Image (Source: Author) 89: Development Plan of Solapur (Source: Development Plan of Solapur) 90: Damani Nagar, Solapur (Source: Google Earth) 91: Damani Nagar, Solapur Image (Source: Author) 92: Damani Nagar, Solapur Image (Source: Author) 93: Damani Nagar, Solapur (Source: Google Earth) 94: Damani Nagar, Solapur Image (Source: Author) 95: Damani Nagar, Solapur Image (Source: Author) 96: Damani Nagar, Solapur (Source: Google Earth) 97: Damani Nagar, Solapur Image (Source: Author) 98: Damani Nagar, Solapur Image (Source: Author) 99: Damani Nagar, Solapur (Source: Google Earth) 100: Damani Nagar, Solapur(Selected Site, Source: Author) 101: Damani Nagar, Solapur(Approach Road, Source: Author) 102: Damani Nagar, Solapur(Site, Source: Author) 103: Damani Nagar, Solapur(Approach Road, Source: Author) 104: Damani Nagar, Solapur(Approach Road, Source: Author) 105: Damani Nagar, Solapur(Service Road, Source: Author) 106: Damani Nagar, Solapur(Service Road, Source: Author) 107: Damani Nagar, Solapur(Service Entrance, Source: Author) 108: Damani Nagar, Solapur(Approach Road, Source: Author) 109: Site Justification(Source: Author) 110: Site Context (Source: Author) 111: Avg Temp and Pecp months (Source: Author) 112: Min Temp (Source: Author) 113: Sun Path (Source: Author) 114: Wind Direction (Source: Author) 115: Rainfall (Source: Author) 116: Site Area (Source: Author) 117: Setbacks (Source: Author) 118: Neignbourhood and Context (Source: Author) 119: Pedestrian Pathway (Source: Author) 120: Vehicular Pathway (Source: Author) 121: Noise (Source: Author) 122: Manmade Features (Source: Author) 123: Views(Source: Author) 124: Trees (Source: Author)

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