8 minute read
Surfng Mecca
Wrightsville Beach:
East Coast Surfing Mecca
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Wrightsville Beach Longboard Association president Laura Shearin catches a wave at one of the beach’s many surf breaks.
BY ANNESOPHIA RICHARDS PHOTOS BY ED POTTER, LAURA SHEARIN & BILL CURRY
With its warm waters, long surfing season and charming beach town atmosphere, it’s no surprise
Wrightsville Beach earned its spot on National Geographic’s list of the “20 Best Surf Towns in the
World.” On any given day, surfers can be seen waiting for a wave, making the drop or wiping out along the whitecaps. Some of the greatest surfers in the world have come from the area, including the likes of Ben
Bourgeois, Tony Silvagni and Bill
Curry. Lesser known, however, is the impact this small beach town with a huge surfing community has had on the history of the sport as a whole. With a rich history spanning over a century,
Wrightsville Beach is celebrated by residents and visitors alike as the birthplace of surfing in North
Carolina. At the corner of the island’s
Waynick Boulevard and Bridgers
Street stands a historical mile marker recognizing Wrightsville
Beach with the distinction of
“Pioneer East Coast Surfing.”
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(Below) A group of WBLA surfers ride a wave together on Wrightsville Beach (photo courtesy of Laura Shearin); (Right) an unnamed surfer catches a sweet ride in this Metro Creative image; Bill Curry is shown as a 13-year-old surfng in Wrightsville Beach in 1965; a 1909 postcard from Wrightsville Beach that features surfers.
In 1909, beach resident Burke Haywood Bridgers introduced the concept of surfing to the community after discovering an article in Collier’s Weekly featuring people in Hawaii practicing the sport. Fascinated, Bridgers reached out via letter to the author, surfing pioneer Alexander Hume Ford, asking for tips on surfboard design, wave conditions, and how to ride the boards. His letter, found by local surf historian J. Skipper Funderburg, is the first evidence of surfing along the East Coast. From there, Bridgers began building surfboards, organizing surfing events, and introducing others to the sport. Because of his efforts, Bridgers is considered to be the originator of the earliest documented surfing community in North Carolina.
Much about surfing has changed over the past century, from the size, shape, and materials of the boards to the people who ride on top of them. What was once a maledominated sport now includes many female athletes and enthusiasts, and surfers’ ages range all the way from the youngest of “grommets” to the seasoned “dudes.” East Coast Surfing Legends Hall of Famer Bill Curry started surfing at Wrightsville Beach in 1965 at the age of 13 and has witnessed the sport transform and grow over the past 55 years.
“It’s definitely more crowded now in the water, but with a little effort, you can always find some places with fewer people,” says Curry. “As kids, we had to jump on our bikes and pedal to the beach and check the surf, and it was like getting a special gift when you looked over the hill and saw good waves coming in. Now with the internet, cell phones, and sophisticated surf reports, most people know a week in advance when and where the swell is going to hit.” Burke
20 Haywood Bridgers
Photographer Ed Potter captured these images of competitors in the 2019 Wahine Classic, a yearly surfng competition for female surfers (i.e., “wahines”) of all ages. Divisions include shortboard, longboard, SUP surf, tandem, pro shortboard, pro longboard and everyone’s favorite – the Teenie Wahines (for girls 10 and under).
When current president of the Wrightsville Beach Longboard Association (WBLA) Laura Shearin first started surfing in the ’80s, she remembers being one of only a few women out on the water. At the age of 16, Shearin decided to give the sport a try, so she bought a used board, hit the beach, and began the challenging task of trying to teach herself how to surf. With frequent help and guidance from other surfers on the water, Shearin found herself holding her own.
“Back then I would often have to compete against the boys,” says Shearin. “Surfing has definitely grown, and women’s surfing has gotten huge. Tere are probably as many women out in the water now as men.”
In fact, Wrightsville Beach hosts the Wahine Classic surfing competition for female surfers every August. Tis year’s event is scheduled for Aug. 15-16.
Another catalyst to the sport’s expansion is the advent of soft-top surfboards. Also known as a “foamie,” these boards are softer, safer, and more durable than hardtops, making them a great option for beginners, especially children. Tese affordable boards are also readily available at big box stores, making the sport accessible to surfers of all ages.
“With the advent of soft tops, more kids are getting into surfing because it’s a safer option than a fiberglass board,” says Shearin. “Another thing drawing kids to surfing is the recent booming of all the surf camps at Wrightsville and the surrounding beaches – it’s huge. I’ve seen more and more young kids out in the water, which is really cool.”
Aussie Island Surf Shop manager Chris Jackson has also witnessed surfing develop in the area over the past few decades. Having worked at the store for the last 20 of its 30 years in business, Jackson feels fortunate to be a part of such a special group of people.
“Being in the surf community has truly been a blessing,” says Jackson. “We have a tight-knit group of
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A Wahine competitor looks for the perfect set at the 2019 Wahine Classic in Wrightsville Beach.
Bill Curry of Wrightsville Beach surfng.
surfers here in our area. Tere were only a few groups out there in the ’80s, so you could surf Masonboro with only a couple of guys. Now, you surf Masonboro with 300 of your closest friends.”
Years ago, surfers were known to have a bad rap. Much like skateboarding, surfing was part of the country’s counter culture in the ’60s and ’70s. Any “dude” carrying a surfboard was thought to be a bum and oftentimes associated with drug use. Today, however, the sport has become mainstream and respected, as much for its athleticism as its culture of community service and “Aloha Spirit.”
“One thing that hasn’t changed is the surfing attitude,” says Curry. “People that surf are friendly and helpful people. I’ve always said that the ocean humbles you and makes you respect it. Tis respect carries over to how we as surfers treat others.”
Started in 1999, the WBLA is a nonprofit organization created to promote surfing as a positive way of life and love for the ocean. With an unofficial motto of ‘50% fun, 50% outreach,’ WBLA members work together to help out local surfers and their families in times of need, such as loss of a job, funeral expenses, or holiday meals. Te association also offers a scholarship program designed to award college assistance to young surfers in the community who have dedicated many hours to community service and volunteer efforts. WBLA’s largest fundraising event each year is a one-day Pro-Am Surf Contest held each October.
“We have lots of divisions, with surfers from the little groms all the way up,” says Shearin. “A lot of families come out, and we raffle off a board and have a lot of fun. It’s really a feel-good event with a great sense of community.”
In addition to helping others in the community, Cape Fear area surfers are always ready to lend a hand out in the water. Whether it’s a struggling beginner trying to stand on their board, or a nearby swimmer struggling to stay afloat, Shearin says the surfers she knows spend a lot of their time helping to mentor others as well as providing emergency assistance when needed.
“It’s a really caring community out there,” says Shearin. “If we see someone struggling in the water, we’ll help them. We’re sort of the first line of defense, and every surfer I know has pulled at least one or two people out of the water who were caught up in a rip current, which happens quite often.”
As for what it is that continues to draw them out day after day in search of the perfect wave, both Curry and Shearin agree there’s nothing that compares to that feeling of peace while out on the water.
“I always joke with my family that I’m going to go get my ‘zen’ on, but it’s true,” says Shearin. “It’s such a feel-good sport, and you can make it what you want by either just cruising and having fun or by being competitive and chasing the waves.”
“It’s the natural experience of being in the sea,” says Curry. “Being an eyewitness to nature and all the things it presents to you changes your perspective on what’s important.”