NZ Herald - Travel 20th September 2022 by NZME.

What it’s really like to flydirectfrom Auckland to NewYork SEPTEMBER 20,2022 Inside » SketchingtheCookIslands » Canada’s newcycletrails » Northland by campervan » Returning to SriLanka travel TopEnd TREATS Sixluxurystaysinthe farnorthof Australia’s Northern Territory Plus

Northland by motorhome

o.nz

Ahuge rangeofamazingbeaches, bushand wetlands to explore, beautiful foodsourcedmainlyfromtheir ownorganicgardens,anda strongthreadofsustainabilityand respectfor nature flowingthrough thewholeplace. Ican’tremembertheshower fittings,which, Isuppose, is asignof my ownpersonaldevelopment.I knewitwould happen eventually.

Whatareyour favouritememoriesfromchildhood familyholidays?

Both my parentswereteachers,soweall couldtakeabreakinthe August holidays,and we gotintothehabitofgoing to Rotorua.

DONMCGLASHAN FROMTHE TRAVELEDITOR ALIFEIN TRAVEL or uk ha What lo Th Sp l St gr pr Mira ains ep er .My king si gor of the pōhut My ng ze of thep hutuk naturetha Wh I Mi Plai roadt windswep DonMcGlashantoursNew Zealandfrom October20, startinginQueenstownand endingin AucklandonNovember 5.Dates, moreinfoandtickets fromdonmcglashan.com

We reviewa luxury hotelin Parisand abeach-front apartmentinDunedin 9 14 10 16 21 » » » » » » 24

2 | Tuesday,September20,2022 travel travel@nzherald.co.nz

Going to WhakarewarewaandtheBlue Baths.Myfather tellingusaboutigneoussubstrataandplatetectonics. mother’sdeepPresbyterianoutrageatthe cost oftaking usall to Cobb &Co. Ican stillseehersittingup stiffly whenthe waiteraskedwhatwineshe wantedand replying, “Oh,whatever youhave open,”inwhatshe felt wasatoneofwitheringdisapproval. Sheshowed him.

Iremembergettingmoreandmoreexcitedasthesulphursmell wouldcreepintothe car, anddrainsatthesideofthe road would start steaming. We stayedinthe Travelodgeonthelake,whichhad carpeton the floors,and “Topliss” shower fittings,which my bigbrother toldme were themost luxuriousinthe world.(Ourshowerat home wasover thebathtub,with twotapsthat,at5yearsold, Icouldnever getright,so iteithergushedfreezingorboiling,so Iwas terrifiedofit.)Mybrother’s endorsement,andthe slightlyrisque-soundingname,mean my heartstill leaps to thisdaywhen Istumbleuponthatbrandofshower fittingwhen on tour.

TOPENDLUXURY NorthernTerritory wilderness resorts guaranteean experiencelikenoother

BEYONDTHEVINES

FREEDOMOFTHEROAD Exploring

ove thetripfrom Kawakawa Bayatthe topofthe ThamesEstuary, downpastTāpapakangawherethe SploreFestivalis, on to wherethe coastsuddenly flattens out andthe Firthlookslikea steelengraving. Stopping for fishandchips at Kaiaua,withitslong gravelbeachandtheoddmotorhomeperched precariously betweenlandand sea,thendownpast MirandaHotSprings,acrossthe topoftheHauraki PlainsandupthroughThamesalongthewinding coast to Coromandel.It’s notallpostcard pretty, butit’s gota weptbeautythathitsmeinthechest overand over.

Travel Editor: StephanieHolmes DeputyEditor: Sara Bunny TravelWriters: Thomas Bywater, SarahPollok Designers: CourtneyWhitaker, RobCox Features Production Editor: IsobelMarriner Sub-editors: JillStanford, MaureenMarriner,Sue Baxalle Cover: TiwiIsland Retreat, Australia.Photo/ EliseCook travel@nzherald.co.nz nzherald.co.nz/travel Facebook.com/nzhtravel Instagram.com/nzhtravel Listentoourpodcast Trip NotesatiHeartRadio Advertising: Samantha Glasswell Samantha.Glasswell@nzme.co.nz Allprices ineditorial contentare inNZdollars, unless specified

Colouredlightsbehindthe synchronisedjets;showersofgold,emerald, crimson; steamrising,dew beadingtheAstroturfapron.Nothingthat Offenbach wouldhave envisagedinhiswildest dreams.

Whereisyour favouriteoff thebeatentrack/ secretspotinNZtoget away fromitall? Whenourkids were little, we’d followfamilytradition, andtakethemonthetrainfrom Auckland to Rotorua. When we gotthere, we’d splashoutandhireacarthesiz aride-onmowerfromacompanycalled UglyDuckling or Rent-ATurkey orsomething, tellingthekidsit wasaspecialjokecar.Theysaw throughthat, justastheysaw through us explainingwhy we couldn’t have amotelwith anaturalhotpool.It wasokay, though. We foundmore affordablemotelswithplasticspabaths,which we certainlydidn’thave athome.TherewereToplissshower fittingstheretoo,buttheydidn’t impress my childrenasmuchastheydidmeatthesameage. We wouldblastdowntheluge,checkoutthe weirdlyspacey hot-water ducksintheriverat Wai-O Tapu,and walkinthebeautiful forest atOkere Falls.Wewatchedthe “Water Organ”, abunchofhosessetup to squirtin timewith music.“Andnow, as aspecialtreat,we’ll finishwiththe cancan.”

ROOMCHECKS

CONTENTS

Elsewhereinthemagthis week, I’ve writtenaboutanother favouritedestination,SriLanka. IvisitedinJanuary2019and fell absolutelyhead overheelsinlove with acountrythat’s full of diverse history,natureandlandscapes ...and someofthebest foodI’ve evereatenonholiday.

LINESINTHESAND Toptips fortravel sketchingin Rarotonga

Andif youcould chooseoneultimate,luxury, dreamholidayinNZ, wherewould yougo?

SriLankahashad aprettyrough runsincethen,withthe tourism industrymassivelyimpactedby tragedy,Covidlockdowns,and economicandpoliticalinstability. But,according to threepeople whohave experiencedthe countryrecently,it’smakinga strong comebackandnowisthe perfect time to visit. Findoutwhy on p23 stephanie.holmes@nzherald.c

ScanthisQR code with yourmobile phone to find moregreattravel tips,adviceand inspirationfrom nzherald.co.nz/travel

HellofromNewYorkCity!As youreadthis,I amwhizzing my way aroundthecitythatnever sleeps,re-acquainting myselfwith oneof myfavouritedestinations inthe world,andcheckingout what’s newintheBigAppleand beyond.It’s been fiveyearssince my lastvisitbutgettingherewas morestraightforwardthistime, thankstoAirNewZealand’snew direct flightfrom Auckland to JFK Airport. It’s alongone— about 16hoursone way— but,inmy opinion, totally worthittoavoid theheadachesoftransitqueues andtight connections.Readmore about my experienceon page 7, online at nzherald.co.nz,orfollow my journeyon Instagram— @nzhtravel

MAKEITCLICK...ETHICALLY Howto responsiblytakeand share photos

What’s yourdreamNZ roadtrip?

The Kiwimusiclegendshares his favourite NewZealandholidays

If youwereheadingon afamilygetaway now, wherewould yougo? My family’s very grown-upnow, sothey’re even harder tocorralthan whentheywerelittle,butif we hadtime,and couldallagreeonit, I’dlike to takethem to theAbel TasmanNational Park.I thinkit’sanastonishing place.Clear water, goldensandbeaches, wekaseating yoursandwiches. If youjustdrive pastthingsallthetime,theynever getrightinside you.I rememberstaring forwhatseemedlikehoursat ahugesouthernrātā on thetrack,anopportunist, windingitsway around along-sufferingbeech, butwhat asensationalopportunist. Thewheelsof my mindjustspun, soaking upthat colour,thinkinghowyou would describethedifference betweenthatrich,dusty,orangeyred,andtherich,dusty,blood red hutukawathat Igrewup with.It’s onlywhen youwalkin hat youslowdownand reallyget it.

CONTACTS

IthinkI’dgo backtoAwaroaLodge,intheAbel TasmanNationalPark, andthistime stay fora coupleof weeks(yousaidit wasadream,right?).

Whereto drinkin Marlboroughif youdon’tlikewine

• • • • • • •• • travel Tuesday,September20,2022 | 3

Contact: Houseof Travel,0800 713715or houseoftravel.co.nz

SYDNEY MARDIGRAS

4 | Tuesday,September20,2022 travel

Ratedoneofthe top five flowerandgardenshows inthe world,theMelbourneFlowerandGarden Show isheldat the RoyalExhibitionBuildingand CarltonGardensfrom March28 to April 2nextyear. Beescorted to theshowall the wayfromNew Zealandwith expertguideandgardening celebrity, JackHobbs.ReturnairfaresfromAuckland, five nights’ accommodationin centralMelbourneand atwo-day ticket to theshoware pricedfrom$3082pp,twinshare.This packageincludesdailybreakfasts,welcomeand farewell dinners,freeentrancetoCruden Farm andthe Royal tanicalGardensinCranbourne.

eventinthe Southern dneyonFebruary17and isset to transform thecitywith 17 daysof colourful, bright,andbold celebrations —a mega-sizedmardi gras.Threenights’ accommodationand aticket to the RainbowRepublic Eventare pricedfrom $999pp,twinshare.FlightsfromNew Zealandareadditional. Book by November30.TravelfromMarch 3to6.

mianatPukekohe Travel,0800 785386, damian@pukekohetravel.nzorpukekohetravel.co.nz

Contact: TravelAssociates, 0800951655or travel-associates.co.nz/parisstay

DANUBEFOR DECEMBER

Send your Hot Dealsto hotdeals@ nzherald.co.nz * Checkalldeals withoperators BITESIZED BIGAPPLE Savour abig,deliciousbiteoftheBigApple —the citythat neversleeps,bybooking returnAir NewZealand flights anda five-nightstayatthe four-star RiuPlazaManhattan TimesSquareinNew York.Pricedfrom$3475pp,you’llstayin aDeluxeKing Room. Dailybreakfastisincluded. Travelfrom Auckland, WellingtonorChristchurchbetweenMay1and June1. Book by Saturday, September 25. Contact: FlightCentre,0800 427555orbook onlinefrom yourcityofdepartureat flightcentre.co.nz/nycfromauckland flightcentre.co.nz/nycfromwellington or flightcentre.co.nz/nycfromchristchurch

Contact: MyCruises, 0800 030408or mycruises. co.nz/cruise/europes-enchanting-rivers-and-magicalchristmas-markets

PRIDEOFPARIS

MELBOURNE INBLOOM

A15-dayChristmasandNewYear European RiverDiscovery Cruisewilltransportyoualongthebeautiful RiverDanube in style,indulging yourtaste budsinseasonallocal foods, regionalwinesandbeers.There’sonboardentertainment and awhole raftofonshoreexcursions to choosefrom, includingcitytourswith expertguides. Pricedfrom $9990pp fortravelfromAuckland,andfrom $10,189pp for travelfromChristchurch, you’llbe celebratingChristmas DaynextyearinViennaandseeingintheNewYearwithan on-boardGala Evening. Book by September30.Thecruise departs on December19,2023.

Five nightsin five-staraccommodationis aParisian escape to the Sofitel Paris Le Faubourg,pricedfrom $999pp, double-share.Thisluxurioushotelwillserve dailybuffet breakfasts andgift youa$141Hotel Foodand Beverage Credit,freeWi-Fi, aroom upgradewhen youarrive,and earlycheck-inandlatecheck-out.Book by September30. TravelbetweenMarch 1andApril 6orbetweenApril12and 30.AirfaresfromNew Zealandareadditional.

travel Tuesday,September20,2022 | 5 *Offers available foralimitedtimeorunlesssoldout.Seeour websiteforfull termsand conditions. JAP14002-31237_JAP11002-32361 WE’REOPEN 7DAYS–CALLUSNOWTOBOOK 0800475 025 ORBOOKONLINE AT inspiringvacations.com BOOK WITHCONFIDENCE:7-DAY COOLINGOFFPERIOD ALSOAVAILABLE: 11 DAYAUTHENTIC JAPAN TOKYO• HAKONE •TAKAYAMA •KYOTO •MIYAJIMAISLAND •HIROSHIMA •OSAKA BOOKONLINE Explorebuzzing Tokyo, ancient Kyotoand beautiful templesandshrineslikeFushimiInari andGolden Pavilion. We’llshowyoumust-see sightsandauthentic experiences,fromsake tastingin Takayama to seeingtheﬂoating torii gate ofMiyajimaIsland. •10nightsin central,3-starhotels •Fullyescorted by English-speaking, expertguide •Breakfastdaily •SceniccruiseonLakeAshi to admireMountFuji •Comfortable,dedicatedcoachtransportation TRAVELFROMMAR2023 TO NOV2023 14 DAYCHERRYBLOSSOMSOF JAPAN It wasafantastictrip. Wellorganised, agreat guidein Japan and would certainlybookaholidayagain withInspiring Vacations in the future. DDDDDKyoto Kawaguchiko (Mt Fuji) ShirakTakayama awago OsakaHiroshima Tokyo JAPAN 3 1 2 2 1 3 Miyajima Island Letyour traveldreamsbloom!Experience theﬂeetingbeautyof sakura asJapan’siconic landscapesandsightsaredrenchedinpetals, including Kyoto’sHeian JinguShrineand Philosopher’s Path, Tokyo’sUeno Park andLake KawaguchikowiththebackdropofMount Fuji. •All coach, railand ferrytransport,includingthe exhilaratingJapanesebullettrain •12nightsinquality,3and 4-staraccommodation •Breakfastdaily,1dinner •Fullyescorted by expert,English-speakingguide TRAVELINMARCHANDAPRIL2023 Rail Coach Ferry 1 No.nights $2,999* 11days perpersontwinsharefromjust ADDAIRFARESFOR$999 PERPERSON $99DEPOSITOPTION AVAILABLE LAST CHANCETOBETHEREIN2023–BOOKNOW CHERRY BLOSSOMS OF JAPAN MAGICAL 14 DAY JOURNEYWITHTHEEXPERTS INTRAVEL TOKYO• LAKE KAWAGUCHIKO•TAKAYAMA •KYOTO •NARA •OSAKA •HIROSHIMA•MIYAJIMAISLAND $6,499* 14days perperson twinsharefromjust $99DEPOSIT OPTION AVAILABLE RETURN INTERNATIONAL AIRFARES INCLUDED ScantheQR to follow our recentjourney andseewhatit’slike to visitin2022. SCANHERE WEJUSTTOURED JAPAN!

Enjoytheperfectblendofeleganceandease–wherelittletouchesarebold,gesturesaregrandandtheviewseven grander.There’sareasonourshipsarethecritics’darlingsandfavouritesamongourmostdiscerningguests.Our boutique-hotel-inspiredPanoramaSuitesfeaturetheindustry’sonlyOpen-AirBalconieswiththewidest-opening windowsincruisinganddecadentComfortCollectionbedsthatfacetheever-changingscenery.

THEONLYWAY TO RIVERCRUISE 80%OFOURCABINS UNRESTRICTEONBOARD DOPENAIR BEDSBALCONY THAT FACETHEVIEW MAGNIFICENTEUROPE 15daysAmsterdamtoBudapest • RiverCruising’sonlysuiteswithbedsthatfacetheview • Expansive,comfortableandluxurioussuites • Renownedrelaxedluxuryandfun,notstuffyatmosphere • BikealongtheMainDanubeCanalorwalkingtourinVolkach • HikethecountrysideortourBenedictineAbbeyinMelk • TourtheOperaHouseandStStephen’sCathedralinVienna COLOGNE RhineRiver RÜDESHEIM BAMBERG NUREMBERG REGENSBURG PASSAU VIENNA BUDAPEST DanubeRiver Rhine Gorge MainDanubeCanal AUSTRIA HUNGARY GERMANY Main River ROTH MELK WÜRZBURG HOLLAND LINZ Wachau Valley AMSTERDAM VOLKACH 14 CRUISEINOUR AWARD WINNING PANORAMASUITEFROM $12,215* perperson(twinshare,departing09Oct2023,catA) WELCOME TO ANEW WAVE INCRUISING. PICTUREYOURSELFTHERETODAY! Formoreinformationvisitavalonwaterways.co.nz, call 0800000883orsee yourtravelagent *Pricescorrectas of 13/09/22.Pricesareperperson,twinshareandinclude applicablesavings.Saveupto$8,400percouple valid to 30Sep22.Qantas FrequentFlyermemberscanearn 2QantasPointsoneligiblebookingswith Avalon Waterways.Eligible bookingsinclude Avalon WaterwayspackagespurchasedusingNewZealandDollars,soldthrough Avalon Waterwaysdirectlyorviaone of theirbookingagents.Memberswillnotearnpointsifabookingiscancelledprior to departure. To earnQantas Points, amember mustaddtheirQantas FrequentFlyernumber to theirbookingprior to departure. If amemberaddsmultipleQantas FrequentFlyermembers to thebooking,the totalamountofpointsearnedwillbesplitequallybetweenpassengersunderthesame Referencenumber foundon yourinvoice. Pointswillbecreditedtothe relevant FrequentFlyeraccountwithin60daysofdeparture. Qantas Points willbeawarded to youbasedontheﬁnal amountoftheeligibletravelledbooking. Avalon WaterwaysTermsandConditionsapply. EARN30,824 QANTASPOINTS PERPERSON SAVEUP TO $8,400 PERCOUPLE

6 | Tuesday,September20,2022 travel

elcometothe circus,”said Bishop,the surprisingly friendlybordersecurity officerashestampedmypassportandofficiallywavedmeontoUSsoil.Itwasabout 17hourssincewe’dtakenofffromAuckland AirportonNZ2,AirNewZealand’sinaugural directservicetoNewYork.Thehourinthe queuetogetthroughCustomsfeltfar more wearisomethanthe16-hourflighthad —itwas hot, Iwascrumpled,andcouldn’twaittoget tomyhotelandlet aweekintheBigApple begin.

iscomingtoa closebutthere’s nosignof aslowingtothereturn oftourism;below,Times Square isbackinfullswing. Photos/NYC &Company THENEWS USA Canada Mexico New York San Francisco

StephanieHolmes touchesdownintheBigApple Air New Zealand’sinauguralNewYork journey

STARTSPREADING

Thepacehereisfastanditcansometimes feellikeyoudon’teven havetimetocatchyour breath.Thereareseeminglyinfiniteoptions forthingstoseeanddo —how doyouknow you’repickingtherightones,makingthemost ofyourtime,notmissingoutonsomething good?Evenwith aweekhere, Iknowit’snot goingtobeenough.Butwhat abuzztobeback inoneofthemost exciting,diverse,andvibrant citiesonEarth.Andevenbettertoknowgetting herejustgotthatlittlebiteasierforNew Zealandtravellers.

IputonAirNewZealand’sNewYork,New Yorkplaylistthroughthein-flightentertainmentsystemaswedescendedclosertothecity andsomehowthetimingworkedperfectlyfor FrankSinatra’s ThemefromNewYork tobe playingexactlythesametimeasthe skyscrapersofManhattanappearedinthe distance.

Therewas moreChampagneon board,andcomplimentarypyjamasand DeadlyPoniesamenitykitsforpassengersin thepremiumcabins.Therewas anewmenu, too,showcasingbeautifulNewZealandproduce,which madedinnerservicefeellike areal treat.

Andthequeuewaseasily forgottenwhenwearrivedin TimesSquareandwereimmediatelyimmersedinthe energyofthecity.

“Circus”feltlike averyaptdescriptionas Isteppedoutofthetransfervanintothemidst ofTimesSquare— people,noise,lights,colour everywhere; atrueassaultonthesenses— sensesthathavehad alotoftimetobequiet andpeacefuloverthelastfewyears.

It’seasytosleepon alie-flatbedofcourse, but Iwasstillsurprisedtowakeupandfind therewereonlyfourhoursremaining —I’d hadasolidseven-hoursleepandwokefeeling revived.Brunch, afreshenupand amovielater andthecabincrewwerepreparingforlanding.

DETAILS AirNewZealandflies directthreetimes aweek fromAucklandtoNew York’sJFK airport. airnz.co.nz

ThequeueforCustomswas apain, yes,but avoiding atransitconnection elsewhereisdefinitely abigplus forAirNewZealand’snewroute, especiallyinthesetimesof potentialdelays,cancellations andlostluggage.

NEWYORK

NewYorkisbuzzing,asifthepandemic neverhappened.It’shardtoimaginetheTimes Squareoftwoyearsago,whenthecitywas lockeddownandtherewasbarelyanyoneto beseen.Walking afewblockstoa rooftopbar undertheshadowoftheEmpireStateBuilding waslikeswimmingagainstthetide. Aconstant throngofpeopleeverywhere Ilooked,allwith facesfullofthewide-eyedwonderonlyNew Yorkcaninspire.It’sgreattobeback.

As Iwritethis,I’vebeenin NewYorkfewerthan 24hours andalready Ihave:walked morethan15,000steps;had cocktailsattworooftopbars; eaten apastramisandwich;and seentheEmpireState,Chrysler,and countlessothericonicbuildings.

Theanticipationandexcitementofaninaugural journeynodoubthelped.At theboardinggate,we’dbeen treatedtofree-flowing Champagne,pizzaandlive music,withcommemorative photoboothstocapturethe event,andMinisterforTourism StuartNashannouncingthe boardingcall.

travel Tuesday,September20,2022 | 7 USA: NewYork »

“I’mgoingtobe apartofit ...”Franksang, andIcouldn’thelpbutlet agrinspreadacross my face.

Checklist

AlonghotsummerinNewYork

Althoughthe16-hourflighttimeseemed intimidatingbeforeboarding,itactuallyfelt relativelyquickandsurprisinglyeasy.And yes, Iwasflyingbusiness class,soofcourse itwouldbeeasyforme.Butthepassengers IspoketoinPremiumEconomyandEconomy

allsaidthesame —theywere surprisedhowfasttheflight went.

“

Butalongwiththosetraditionalclassic NYCticklistitems,I’vealsobeentotwo attractionsthat haveopenedwithinthelast year.RiseNYisanimmersive museum/theme parkrideshowcasingthehistoryofthecity andiswellworthbookingforthestartofyour stay.SummitOneVanderbilt,whichopened lastOctober,is askyscraperobservationdeck with adifference,wheretheviewsinsidethe buildingarejustascaptivatingasthoseseen outthewindows.

The firstethical dilemma manytravellers face is whether to request permission from their subjects. Askand risk losing the moment. Don’t ask and youmight risk violating someone’s boundaries

For award-winning Kiwiphotographer and

or better or for worse, social media has had aprofound effect on where and howwetravel. Even as the era of travel influencers seems like it might be drawing to aclose (thanks to changing social media algorithms), destinations are still tryingtotap into atrendthat’s been aroundlong before Instagram:The quest to get that perfect vacation shot.

“It’s goodtoslow down and think,‘Okay, this is pristine desert. Am Imakingfootprints that are goingtobehere for 20 years?”’ he says, noting the problemisn’t thenumber of people lining up to take photosina fragile environment —the problem is how they act once they’re there.

So, we’re not exactlynew here. Yet, travel photography continues to be fraught with countless examples of bad behaviour, fromflying drones where it’s prohibited to takingsmiling selfies at Holocaust memorials. It’s reached the point where somehotels, restaurants andtourist attractionsare beginning to limit photography, and in some cases,outrightban it.

Scan this QR code with your mobile phone to findmore greattravel tips,advice and inspiration from nzherald.co.nz/travel

travel Tuesday, September 20,2022 | 9 EthicalTraveller »

Finally, what youdowith your photos once

“Photography generally shapes how people see the world and so when we sharephotos,we are influencing how others perceivethe world too,” says Bailey. “When sharing aphoto and communicatingabout it, the rule of thumbis quite simply to represent all peoplewith dignity and respect.”

/Getty Images

Jessica Wynne Lockhart gives adviceonhow to take andshare photosresponsibly on your nextholiday. It’s not justaboutasking permission—it’s also about determining what it is that you wanttosay

“As aphotographer, you’ll often have an emotional response to something that you’ve seen,” he says. “But it’simportant to check yourself andrespect the local people.”

“Everyonehas their own moralcompass,” says Scott,who describes her shootingstyleas “organic”. However, she agrees there are situationswhen requesting permission is nonnegotiable.

you gethome is just as criticalasthe actoftaking them. Regardless of whether you’re just sharing your photos on social mediaorina family album,it’s important to consider the story you’retelling. Did you post onlypictures of peopleintraditional costumes —but not in modern clothing? Did you only share pictures of children with fliesontheir faces, but not those same children attending awell-furnished school? You could be guilty of both perpetuating stereotypes andcreating poverty porn

Social media didn’t start it. Neither did selfie sticks.

“In Ethiopia,I always asked permission, as it’s believed that when you photograph someone, you’re takingpartofthem,” she explains.

“It’s about respecting the environment, respecting local people, and thinkingabout the bigger picture,” he says.

Makeit click —ethically

So, howexactly can youtake “responsible” photos on your nextholiday —and why does it even matter?

Since the dawnofpersonal photography, we’vebeen lininguptopropupthe Tower of Pisa,pinching the top of the Taj Mahal, and walking across the Abbey Road pedestrian crossing.

Beingrespectful shouldn’t just apply to people though —itshould also apply to the environments you’retravelling through.

Captions matter, too. In aformer life, Iworked for avolunteer-sendingorganisation,where part of my jobwas to monitorvolunteers’ social media channels.Hands-down, the expression that stillmakesmecringeis”#TIA”, which standsfor “ThisisAfrica” —asthough the world’s second-largest continentcould be neatly summarised in athree-character hashtag. (My second-least favourite caption?“The people had nothing,but were so happyand generous.”) If what you’resharing seems over-simplifiedand one-dimensional, it probably is.

While Watson doesinclude geotags of the remote locations he’s visited on social media posts (a controversial practice, as critics suggest it can leadtoover-tourism), he adherestoLeave No Traceprinciples.

adventurer Mark Watson, it’s not even aquestion:consent is amust. He suggests making eye contactwith yoursubject and gesturing your intent by lifting yourcamera. And,asa bonus, the act of asking for permission may result in across-cultural exchangeyou might not otherwisehave had

“There’s afine line between agenuine interest in others’ cultures and exoticising people for your own benefit,”says Nicola Bailey,anAustralianphotographer and the photo editorfor Adventure.com.“As aWesterner, there’s the risk that you’re setting people— often in developing countries —apart as ‘different,’rather than highlightingsimilarities that you may share. You’re not only reinforcing stereotypes but also reaffirming the notion that the customs of the West are rightand that others are, in some way, more backward.”

Photo

But for TraceyScott,who was named New Zealand TravelPhotographerofthe Year in 2021 and 2022 by New Zealand Institute of Professional Photography (NZIPP), it’s abit more nuanced than that.

LINES IN THE SAND

Dreaming of taking asketchbook on your island holiday but worriedyou’ll hold up your fellow travellers because you want to stop and sketch? Well,I was too until on aholiday in the Cook Islands Ifound acouple of tricks that helped me sneakinsketching while everyone wasn’t looking.

Dewhurst’s sketches include island maps andlush tropical landscapes.Photos / Murray Dewhurst

Asketchbook.Everyoneloves reading as an escape and manyapproach their holiday as a chancetocatch up on reading, but why escape yourholidaywhen you can draw it instead? You’ve dreamedofthis for weeks and now you’re here you want to escape? There’s plenty of time for that once you’rehome, andthe act of observation required to sketchwill bring you closertoyour subject, all the while soaking in that tropical atmosphere

Cook Islands »

Map it first

So you like sunbathing?Who doesn’t,sosketch, and get atan at the sametime!

Getcultured

Sketch the locals in action at churches,markets or chatting under abig old pink frangipani tree. Rarotongans also liketokeep their relatives close by so youwill often see multiple graves on the front lawnoftheir homes, beautifully white-washed and decorated.Tours makeit easy for sketchers, just sit back andsketch the show. The Captain Tama’s crew put on a hilarious performance after areef cruise, snorkellingand barbecued mahi-mahi.

It’s ajungleout there

hy bother sketching on holiday? Awhile back Ifound an old rough pencil sketch of Mt Ararat from a backpacking trip to east ern Turkey manyyears ago.Itsurprised me, as the memories, sounds and smells of aday meeting Kurdish goat herders and drinking chai in Dogubayazıt cameflooding back. I’m notsure your cellphonephotos would do that, and cellphones take terrible photos.

Take yourartistic tendencies to Rarotonga, and you can bring back adfferentkind of souvenir.Words/ illustrations /photosby MurrayDewhurst

Chances are you’re staying somewhere with a swimming pool surrounded by tropical gar dens, or at least abeach with palm trees Rarotonga is basically onebig tropical garden, so there is always something lush to capture in your sketchbook. Use this relaxing timeto capture the flora andfauna that we don’t get at home. Isketched ginger, tiare ma¯ori, frangipaniand heliconias while everyoneelse lay aroundreading abook.

Mapping your destination before you fly works wonders to buildanticipation,and ensures you arrivewith at least some knowledge of what sideofthe islandyou’re stayingon. An added bonus is thefirst page of your sketchbookhas already been completed by the timeyou arrive.

Loseyourself in abook

look like. Alush mountainous interior ringed by tropical palms, soft sand beaches andan aqua lagoon.

The problem with spectacular volcanic islands like Rarotongathough, is the best view of them is from the reef. Take advantage of the hotel kayaksand paddle outtothe reef to sketch the view back. There was astiff on-shore breezethe day Itried, blowing me back into shore severaltimes before Icouldfinish.

Of course, check with alocal that it’s safe to paddle outfirst, beware of reef openings which can have dangerous currents,and be carefulnot to drop your sketchbook in the lagoon!

One of the trickiest times to break out the sketchbook is when everyone’s on the move. Take walking theCross Island Track for ex ample.We’d packedplenty of water for thirsty kids, everyone was sunblocked up to the max, hats were on and eventually, we foundthe trailhead.It’s afun walk up asteep rooted ridge trail, with epic viewsfromthe top that aphone camera will never do justice. Iscrawled the

10 | Tuesday, September 20, 2022 travel

Go flat-out

Sketchingbythe pool

Get off the island To my eyes, Rarotongalookslike acombination of Moorea, Tahiti and the Whanga¯rei heads exactlymyidea of what atropical island should

GonearethedaysofKiwisdraggingback bitsofcoralandexoticshellsfromtheir travels —weallknowNewZealandCustoms willtakeitoffyouanyway,soyouprobably getthepicturebynow —justdrawit.

Manga(theNeedle)while standingonthetrail,quickly suggestingthetreesframing it, afewfrigatebirdscircling abovebeforecatchingupwiththegroup.I addedthe skyandfinishingtouchesbackat base.

Paddleouttothereefandyou cansketchtheviewbackto shore —butcheckthecurrents first.Below:oneofCaptain Tama’screw.

Get abitfruity

Avarua Muri Rarotonga PacificOcean

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Checklist

AirNewZealandandJetstarflydirect fromAucklandtoRarotonga.

spectacular413mTeRua

RAROTONGA

Oneofthebestthingsyoufindontropical islands?Tropicalfruit.Beforeyoudivein, sketchit!Dragonfruitandstarfruitwere new tome,and Ijusthadtodrawthem.

travel Tuesday,September20,2022 | 11

Pickup afabulousconchshellonyourbeach walklikewedid?There’s awell-known sayingthatgoes “Leave onlyfootprints.Take onlyphotos”(naturallyI’dchangethatto sketches).

Formorethingstoseeanddo,see cookislands.travel

GETTINGTHERE

Leaveitbehind

12 | Tuesday,September20,2022 travel YOUR HANDPICKED INCLUSIONS: • Five nightsin aGardenBure withprivatecourtyard • All-inclusivedining includingbreakfast,lunch,dinnerandafternoon tea • Onenightly housebeer, wine,spiritorsoftdrink withdinnerperperson • Welcomefootmassage andcoconutdrinkperperson • One-timeromanticin-burebreakfast withbottleofChandonBrut • Convenient roundtriptransfers fromSavusavuAirport Rainforest meetsreefatthisbreathtakingburehideaway,completewith aninfinitypool,spa, kids’club,divecentre andthreevibrant restaurants. Forfulltermsandconditionspleasegotowww.LuxuryEscapes.comorcalltheLuxuryEscapesinformationlineon0800006057.Flightsarenotincluded.Imagesareforillustrativepurposesonly.Informationcorrectattimeofprint. Blackoutandsurchargesdatesapply,checkwebsiteforfulldetails. Availablefor alimitedtimeonly FIJI 5NIGHTS Floatingbureupgrades &longerstays available SCANTOSEEOFFER SECURETHIS ESCAPE WITH ADEPOSITAND PAYTHERESTLATER PRIVATELAGOONRESORT All-inclusivedining | Nightlydrinks | Roundtriptransfers Twoadults Valuedupto$4,153 $3,107 BUYNOW,CHOOSEDATES LATER TRAVEL UNTIL 31 DEC2023 0800006057 7 DAYCHANGEOFMINDREFUNDGUARANTEE

British Columbia Canada

AirNZfliesdirectfrom AucklandtoVancouver. AirCanada’sdirectservice resumesonNovember12.

InJasperandBanffNationalParks,newtrails andtouroperatorsaremakingiteasiertoget onyourbike,writes JessicaWynneLockhart

the

Ifthepandemicistothankforanything,this mightjustbeit.Overthepasttwoyearsin

businesslicensedtooffermountain-biketoursin BanffNationalPark.

TherecentlyrefurbishedBearHillLodgeis centrallylocated,withlodgeroomsthatfeature gasfireplacesandkitchenettes. bearhilllodge.com

WheretostayinBanff

Checklist CANADA

OnmyfinaldayintheRockies,I decideto challengemyownskillsbyridingthe60kmfrom BanfftoLakeLouiseontheBowValleyParkway. Onroute, Iseebearsanddeerenjoying areprieve fromthetraffic.Forme,cyclinghastransformed afamiliardestinationintosomethingentirely new —but Ihavenodoubtthatitwillcreate lastingmemoriesforfirst-timevisitorsthat wouldbeimpossibletogetfromthepassenger seatof acar.

ParksCanada’sBowValleyParkwayCycling Experienceis athree-yearpilotprojectrunning until2024.FromMay 1toJune25andSeptember 1to30,17kmofthescenicroadwayfromBanff toLakeLouiseisclosedtocars.Don’tforget your bearspray,though —thisisalsotheseasonthat bearsaremostactive,andwhenyou’remostlikely toseethemalongroadsides.

Whentovisit

YeteventhoughI’m abornandbredAlbertan, thisisthefirsttimeI’veevercycledthroughthe CanadianRockies. Igetthat itlikelysounds counterintuitive —especiallytoKiwis —tohave accesstomassivemountainsandneverbike throughthem.Buttrustmewhen Isayit hasn’tbeendueto alackofinterest,but rather alackofopportunity.

Vancouver Vancouver Island Calgary

As aformoftravel,cyclingisperhapsoneof themostunder-rated.Twowheelscanaccess wildernessareasthatfourwheelscannot,while movingat aslowerpace makesitpossibletosee, smellandhearthingsyou’dnevernoticefrom insidea car.Thesearejusttwoofthereasons thatbicycleistheidealwayto exploreAlberta’s JasperandBanffNationalParks.

It’salsoresponsibleforthecelebratedBow ValleyParkwaycyclingproject.In2020,Parks Canadatemporarilyclosed17kmofthescenic roadway —whichrunsfromBanfftoLake Louise— tohelpdecreasethespreadof Covid-19.Itwasn’tlongbeforecyclists startedtakingadvantageofthecar-free stretch.Itbecamesopopularthatthe secondaryhighwayisnowclosedto motorvehicleseveryMay,June,and September.

WheretostayinJasper

GETTINGTHERE

Details

Theboomalsogavebirthtotwotour operators,includingJourneyBike guidesinJasper,runbyElissa Cummings.

TheCanaltaLodgeisdesignedforcyclists,with abikerackoutfront.Ifyouwanttopopdowntown quickly —a five-minutepedalaway —bicyclesare

Lookingoutatthe AthabascaRiverinthetown ofJasper,Canada.

TheAthabascaRiverinJasperNationalPark.

Riding

Meanwhile,whenClareMcCannlaunched Bikescapein2021,shebecamethefirstguiding

“You’regoingtotakemefor aridetoday,”she tellsmeasweheadupTunnelMountain,assuringmewearen’tgoingtodoanythingtoo “gnarly”.

alsoavailableforrental.Bestofall,nolocksare necessarythankstoBanff’sbikevaletservice. canaltalodge.com

Thiscalmsmynerves,butalsoreflectsthe ethosofParkCanada’snew“bringyourown bike”campaign —thesportisaccessibleforall, withsuggestedtrails,tours,andbikerentalsto suitallskilllevels.Yes,youcantestyour skills on“gnarly”mountainbiketrails,butyoucan alsorent acruisere-bike,get apicnicfromGraze Banff,andhave aleisurelydayoutexploring relativelyflattrails.

travel Tuesday,September20,2022 | 13 Cycling »

CyclingtheBowValleyParkwayin BanffNationalPark,Canada. Photos/ ShannonMartin;Supplied

Itwasn’tuntil2020that manyofthetrails inthetwoparksbecamemulti-useanditwas onlyinDecember2021thatfurtheramendments weremadefore-bikes.

“PeopleareonlyinJasperfor ashort amountoftime,andtheywanttogetasmuch inastheycan.With mountainbiking,youcan gotwiceasfar,”shesays.

DETAILS jasper.travel banfflakelouise.com Rockies

Alberta,there’sbeen a“bikeboom”,with retailerssellingoutofthetwo-wheeledtoysand localsheadingtotheRockiestotestthemout.

Untilrecently,therehavebeenfew placesfortouriststorentbikesand evenfewertouroperatorstoguide them.Andduetoperceivedtrailuser conflictbetweenhikersandcyclists, alongsideconcernsabouterosion,cyclingwaspreviouslypermittedononlya limitednumberoftrailsinJasperand BanffNationalParks.

ighaboveme,themountains glistenwithfreshsnow,but downbelowit’stheperfect springdayinJasperasI daisywheelaroundaquamarine lakes.Richardson’sground squirrelspoptheirheadsupfromtheirundergroundhomes,chirpingas Irollpast. Inavigate aroundrootsandrocks,making aU-turnwhen Ispot aprotectiveelkandhercalfblockingthe trail.Then,onmyfinalclimbbackintotheJasper township, Iseetwocoyotessurveyingtheir territory.

GetmaroonedatthecompletelyreclusiveTiwi IslandRetreatonthewesternsideofBathurst Island. A30-minutecharterflightfromDarwinand ashortestuaryboatride,theretreatsnuggles againstPortHurd’spalm-tree-linedbeach.But don’tstepintothealluringwaters;thisiscrocodile territory.Fourresidentcrocsandvisitingdolphins andsharkscloselywatchyoureverymoveand epicureandevouring.

heTopEndinAustralia’sNorthern Territoryisfamedforits

WalkingtrailstosecludedNorthernandEastern beachesrevealseveralseaturtlenestingareas.By specialarrangement,localYolnguexplainabout theirsacredsitehomeland,culture,early Macassantrading,andmayevenshowyouhow tohuntformudcrabs.

onthewalkingpathsatnight(torchesare available),butmostguestschoosetohitch agolf cartridetotheirvillaafter asuperbnightof exquisitewininganddining.

GETTINGTHERE

Iguarantee afewdays’sojournatBanubanuEcoBeachRetreat,offtheNorthernTerritory’sEast ArnhemLandcoast,willfeellike atranquilweek away.PerchedonthenorthernmosttipofBremer Island(DhambaliyainYolngu),itsseclusion and serenityimmediatelyenvelopyou.

DETAILS

TOPEND

BanubanuBeachRetreatin

Whetheryouwant aseachange, atreechange, ortobeshroudedinAustralia’soldestliving landscape,eachstaycanbebookedindividually andis asparklinggemwaitingtobediscovered inoneofAustralia’smostpicturesqueand unexploredregions.

QantasfliesfromAuckland toDarwin,viaSydneyor Melbourne. qantas.co.nz

Checklist

Accessisby a15-minutecharterflightor 45-minuteboatridefromNhulunbuy.Goveairport hasdailycommercialflightsfromCairnsand Darwin. banubanu.com

Thebesttimetovisitis betweenMaytoOctober, soplannowforyour2023 visit.Formorethingstosee anddointheregion,goto northernterritory.com

Banubanuoperateson100percentsolarpower, andpurewatercomesvia abore.Plus,internet andmobilephonecoveragemeanyoucaninstantly makefriendsandfamilyenvious.

Discoverfivedifferentecosystemswithina kilometreoftheresort.Seenypapalms surrounding acrystalspring-fedstream, numerousbuffalo,bantengandmyriadbirdlife frombrolgastowhistlingducks.Collectbeach shells,learnhowtheindigenouspeopleusethe localplantsandvisittheNT’sfirsttownship, abandoned,historicVictoriaSettlement.

Safelychillpoolsideoratthedeckbarandview theseamazinglycaptivatingprehistoricmonsters inbetweenyourdailyactivities.Theonlyother don’tisstandingunderthecoconuttrees. Forsafety,stayoutsidethegreen ropedropzone.

Seachanges

14 | Tuesday,September20,2022 travel Australia »

Australia’sNorthernTerritory offersaneco-escapefromthe hustleofmodernlife. Photo /TourismNT;Supplied

Now,forgetyourshoes;even thestaffarebarefoot.Andenjoy yourvariousactivities,from

Comfortableboatsallowyoutoexplorepeaceful CoburgMarineParkandcatchplentifulbluewater fishorestuarybarramundi,whichtheresortchefs willprepareforyourdinnerorassundownerhors d’oeuvres. Butwith nomobilephoneorinternet, you’llhavetosaveyourphotographicprooftill you’rebackinthebigsmoke. sevenspiritbay. com.au

Wildernessresortsinoneof nature’swonderlands guaranteean experiencelikeno other,writes NannetteHolliday

Theaquamarinewatersandgoldenbeachesare hometocrocodiles.Snakesoftenwarmthemselves

ButonceatthelodgeonCoburgPeninsula’s CoralBayembankment,youfeellikeyou’reona tropicalisland.Verdantmanicuredlawnsandlush gardenssurroundthemainlodgebuildings,lagoon poolandpathwaystothe24hexagonalvillas.

Halforfull-dayfishingchartersofferanglersand novices aplethoraofchallenges.Theresortchef thenseamlesslycooksyourcoraltrout,Spanish mackerel,redemperor,trevallyorqueenfishcatch withlocalproduce.

spectacularnaturalwonders, World-HeritageNationalParks, ruggedcoastline,50,000-year-old indigenousartworks,ancient civilisations,primevalwildlife,birdlifeand fishing.Immersiveexperiencesareguaranteed. Whatisn’texpectedisbeingencapsulatedin luxuryattheendofeachday.

ThetranslucentturquoiseWesternBaywaters andreefarenotonly ahavenforlargeclownfish; theyaretheonlyNTcoastalwatersI’veeverswum, snorkelledandkayakedwithoutfearofbecoming acrocodile’sdinner.

Sixpermanentdeluxeaccommodationtentsare surroundedbycoolingcasuarinatrees,thesliding glassdoortoyourverandaproviding glorious uninterruptedviews.Thewavesgentlylappingthe sandoutsideyourbeachsideeco-glampingsuite becomeyourmusic.Itisbarefootedfreedom.

Namedaftertheindigenousseasons,Seven SpiritBayisadventurousluxuryonsteroids. Beginningwith a45-minutecharterflightfrom Darwinand a30-minutescrubbywoodlandandredrustroadjourneyin amassiveair-conditioned 4WDbus,yourealisehowremoteandharshthis environmentis.

SixuniqueretreatstaysspreadacrosstheTop Endprovideexceptionalwildernessluxurieswhile absorbingtheirsuperblyuniqueregional surroundings.Eachresortoffersall-inclusive creaturecomforts,includingcosybedscomplete withlusciouslinen,ensuite,first-classamenities, exquisitechef-preparedmealsandmatchless privatetours.

TopEnd luxury Australia Northern Territory Darwin

16 | Tuesday, September 20,2022 travel

Nothing is cosierthan the sound of rain on

It feels like every second vehicle is a campervan as we headnorth in our four-berth Wilderness Motorhome.With nowhere in particular to be at any particular time, I’m excited to explorethe historic highlights of astoried region steeped in legend and heritage.

Te Hana’s Ma¯ori Cultural Centre deepens that appreciation.The model village reminds us that before theBohemiansand Albertlanders was athriving and rich culture without which none of what we have now would exist.

design geniusiseverything you expect while being everything you don’t. It’s colourful, it’s entrancing, it’s magic. We walk around its curved andcolourful walls, we look at its exhibits inside. We just about trip overour feet to see it from different angles.

We camp for the night,snug and secure in our self-containedness.

The walk crosses the Ha¯tea River and follows its banks, passingpicturesque boatsheds,skateparks, dog parks, crosses iconic bridges —every step offers anew and lovely view. Sculptures beside the walk telltheir own story and detailed explanation boardsfill in the gaps.

pring’s warmer temperatures, coupled with auniversitybreak, lure my daughter and Iout on the roads to enjoy holiday hotspots before the tourists of summer pile in.

There has been much talk in recent years about Whanga¯rei takingAuckland’s port.What we did not expect was for Whanga¯rei to have already taken Auckland’s waterfront.

Parking the Wilderness on aside street— to be honest, large vehicles are not well catered for —weset off on foot for the Hundertwasser Art Centre. This fabulous architectural pile of

These tinycommunity museums are pricelessgems,usually curatedbypassionate volunteers —often telling their own family histories —quietly imparting adeeperappreciationof howand whyour multicultural nationiswhat it is.

hen the rain comes the next day, it’s horizontal. The violent wind smacks us as we park on the Paihia roadside, rocking slightly in the gale Across theroad is the stone pile of St Paul’s Anglican Church. The blue-stoneclassic structure of steeple and buttressed walls sharpens and fades with the driving torrents. Itake

GO NZ: Motorhomes » Amotorhomeholidayallowsyou theflexibility to go wherever youwant,whenever

In Kaiwaka, we pull up outsidethe St Paul’s Anglican Church, an architectural treatona knoll overlooking the village with anicebig park for the camper. We stock up on Dutch cheesesand salted liquorice across the highway beforepushing through intodarkening skies towards Whanga¯rei.

The firstchurch was built on a mission station here in 1823; thestone version yousee today is thefifth church on this site.

Mesmerised,wehead in the wrong direction outsideand find ourselves on the Ha¯tea Loop —a walk of the Whanga¯rei TownBasin that has hands downwon the waterfront war withAuckland.

As the normally gentle blue tide continues to roll in as yellow-brown rollers discoloured by churning sands, Iregretfully abandon plans to headto Russell and instead head inland to Kerikeri, grateful the campergives me the flexibility to change my plan on awhim Haruru Falls roars in goldenecstasy but despitemydisappointment at havingtomiss out on the finer details of the east coast,Kerikeri makes it all worthwhile Google mapsand road signs are in conflicthere so here’s the deal: the road signslead youtoa car park acrossthe river from the Stone Store —accessed by afootbridge —but Google will bring you directly to the historic precinct.Parking is abundant on both sides, even for the Wilderness. We end up parking on first on oneside and thendriving around to the other as we explorethe store, the churchonthe hill and walkuptothe pa on the promontory.

shelter under the tossing boughs at the gateand then run hopscotch fashion to the black and-white tiledporch and the near-silence under the stained glass windows inside.

FREEDOM OF THE

We wind our way through Warkworth and the never-ending roadworks of the Dome Valley to Wellsford, where the AlbertlandMuseum is arich repository of stories andphotographs about non-conformistChurch of Englanders andtheir ultimately fruitless plans for amajor settlementonthe KaiparaHarbour.

Main:Kerikeri Mission Stationis part of thehistoric waterfront precinct; above Whanga¯rei's Hundertwasser Art Centre; aWilderness Motorhome.

Havingour own cookingfacilities meansweare able to prepare ahealthydinner withouthaving to resort to takeout. We pull window blinds to close ourselves off from the outside world and with the push of abutton, our comfortable beds luxuriously unfold from theceiling.

Behindus,thefamous lighthouseis abeaconof lighttoshipping.

Andbehindthephysical pinnacleofthislandwecall homearetheculturesthat carvednewcommunities,thehistoriesofthosethatcamefirst,the failuresofallofustounderstandeach otherbutalsothedeterminationforallofusto dobetter— forthislandthat,forallofus,isour turangawaewae.

We feelthespiritualsignificanceoftheCapeas wenearSpiritsBay.Theroilingoceanis aviolent expanseofclashingseas wherethecurrentsoftheTasman andthePacificmeet,hitherto keptapartbytheexpanseof theNorthIsland.

Withthosethoughts,webrewourselvesanother cupofcoffee,andpointtheWildernesssouth towardshome.

The windshredstherain cloudsintogreyribbons anda weak,paleyellow lightbathesthisspecial groundaswestandalone atthetop.

InKaeowestopoffforourmorningcoffeeat Donna’sCafe,andlearnthevariousstoriesbehind theyachtabandonedinthemiddleoftown.Take yourchoice,thefriendlybaristatellsus,asshe givesthedifferingstoriesofhowthemysterious hullendedupsofarfromthecoast.

Conditionsapply.Pricesareperperson,inAustraliandollars,basedondoubleoccupancy,subjecttoavailability,includesalladvertiseddiscounts andcorrectattimeofprinting.Guestsarerequiredtobefully vaccinatedagainstCOVID-19attimeoftravel.Portugal’sRiverofGoldbasedon 06November2023departure.Theseoffers arevalidonnewbookingsmadebetween05August2022and31October2022unlesssoldoutprior. Forfulltermsandconditionsvisitviking.com PORTUGAL’S RIVEROFGOLD LISBON –PORTO 10 DAYS |8 GUIDED TOURS |2 COUNTRIES SETSAIL MAR –OCT 2023;APR –AUG2024 From AU$4,495pp in Verandastateroom SAVE AU$2,000 percouple PORTUGAL SPAIN Braga Régua Lamego Pinhão Barcad’Alva VegadeTerrón Salamanca Coimbra Lisbon Madrid DOURORIVER SantiagodeCompostela Cruise MotorCoach OvernightinPort PORTUGESETARTS ANNIVERSARYSALE ISBON O PORTO IDED TO RS | 2 CO NTRIES $4,495 PER PERSON ENJOY, IT’SALLINCLUDED eluxeaccommodationin ariverviewstateroom dedexcursionineachportofcall nboard mealsandbeverages,including ne,beerandsoftdrinkswithlunch anddinner pecialtycoffee,teaandbottled water nlimitedWi-Fi •Culture Curriculum:Lecturesandperformances ofmusic,art,dance,cookingandhistory •Allonboardgratuities,port chargesandtaxes •Nocreditcardsurcharges •Industry-leadingHealth &SafetyProgram MOST AWARDED |VIKINGINCLUSIVE VALUE LARGEST &MOSTMODERNFLEET 0800447913 VIKING.COM ORSEE YOURVIKINGTRAVEL AGENT ROAD Checklist WILDERNESS DETAILS WildernessMotorhomes haspick-upanddrop-off locationsinAucklandand Christchurch.Forratesand moreinformation,see wilderness.co.nz youwant,writes HelenvanBerkel TheHundertwasserArt CentreandWairau Ma¯oriArtGallery. Photos/NorthlandNZ

theroofandparkedattheWagonWheelin Kerikeri,thatpitter-patterisonlycentimetres away.ThefollowingmorningweareCape-bound, followingtheroadasitwindsthroughhamlets withmoresyllablesthaninhabitants,enjoyingthe unexpecteddiscoveriesalongtheway.

travel Tuesday,September20,2022 | 17

Suddenly,weareinMangonuifortheworldfamousfishandchipshopthatisourlunch destination.Wemunchourfresh-as-freshmeal whilewatching atinyfishingvesselchurnthrough thesandy-greenwaterswiththelatestcatch.

18 | Tuesday,September 20, 2022 travel HIGHLIGHTS: •Slowdownand letstressﬂoat away on secluded Huahine. Explore thelocalvillageonfoot. Wanderthroughlush rainforests. Floatincrystal-clear lagoons. •Enjoy an overnightinBoraBora, andexplore this laid-back destination’s dramaticmountain peaks, romanticlagoon, andimpossiblyturquoise waters •Livethe lifeidyllicwithamemorable dayonMotuMahana, ourownprivate sliceofparadise PacificOcean Tahiti PAPEETE Huahine BoraBora Moorea Taha’a MotuMahana Society Islands FRENCHPOLYNESIA *Validfornewbookingsonlyfrom8Septemberto9December2022.Advertisedpriceisperperson,basedon17June2023departure,includestheapplicablePONANTBonus,inAustralianDollars(AUD),basedondouble occupancyinaBalconyStateroomDeck6.Advertisedpriceincludesporttaxesandcharges,isyieldmanaged,correctattimeofprinting,subjecttoavailability,andmaychangeatanytime.FlightCredit:Offerisperperson, appliedasadiscount,inAustralianDollars(AUD),isnotredeemableforcash,andisnotretroactive.WelcomeOffer:Offerisperperson,appliedasadiscount,inAustralianDollars(AUD),isnotredeemableforcash,isnot retroactive,andnotcombinablewithanyotheroffersexceptthePONANTBonus,FlightCreditoffer,andSingleTravelleroffer,orunlessstatedotherwise.Premiumbaravailableatanadditionalcost.Refertoau.ponant.com forfulltermsandconditions.ABN:35166676517.Photocredit©PaulGauguinCruises. RoundtripPapeete |7NIGHTS|Departs 6&13May,10,17 &24June2023 From$8,690 perpersonincludingup to 25%off brochurefare PLUS WelcomeOffer SAVE $400 perpersonwhenyou bookyourﬁrstPaulGauguin voyage* BONUS $800 FLIGHTCREDIT perperson* Contactyour preferredTravelAgent or PaulGauguin Cruiseson: Australia:1800878671|New Zealand:0800854777 paulgauguin.aus@ponant.com|au.ponant.com/paul-gauguin Fare includesaccommodation,openbar*,all mealsincluding24-hourroomservice,entertainment, non-motorisedwatersports, andunlimitedWi-Fi. Tahiti &the SocietyIslands

Thesecondlockdownwas muchharderand business,whilststeady,hasbeenpretty spontaneoussincethen.I canwakeuponMonday withnothingbooked,thenendupoutontour forsixdays.Last-minutebookingsaremore common,butwehavesomenicebookingsonthe horizon,andI’mpositive.

Mypartnerwasoffered ajobinRotoruawhich Ilovedso,whenhefoundworkinGisborne,I movedreluctantlybut,verysoon Iwasinlove withthisplace.Whenhewantedtochangejobs andmoveagain, Idugmyheelsinandsaidno. WhatmadeyoufallinlovewithGisborne? It’shardtogethereandhardtogetoutandI

Whatbroughtyouhomethesecondtime?

ElisabethEasther speaksto KatrinaDuncan,co-ownerof CycleGisborne,about runningatourismbusiness throughthepandemic

Commencingon aSunday, MondayorTuesday exclusiveofstatutory&schoolholidays Includesall Accommodation typesandsites Conditionsapply &subjecttoavailability FreePhone0800422674 •Telephone+64 73456240 email.info@allseasonsrotorua.co.nz www.allseasonsrotorua.co.nz 50-58LeesRoadHannahsBay, Rotorua ALL SEASONS HOLIDAY PARK -ROTORUA Payfor 2nights &stayfor3 Heated Pool &Spa Appliesfrom25/4/20 to 26/11/20 Appliesfrom31/1/21to21/12/21 Payfor 2nights &stayfor3 Commencingon aSunday, MondayorTuesday exclusiveofstatutory&schoolholidays Includesall Accommodation typesandsites Conditionsapply &subjecttoavailability BUBBLE BUSTERTOURS NewZealand Tours •Phone0800309196 •www.nztours.nz •steve@nztours.nz Allpricesareperpersonsharetwin.Alltours requireminimumof 2passengers. ComeCruising! ** **FabulousFood. FabulousFood. **GreatEntertainment ** Fascinating **Ports Ports **Greatservice. ComeExploring! **Smallgroups **Greatdriver/guides **Many2nightstops ** **4starhotelsandbreakfasts 4starhotelsandbreakfasts CHRISTMASCRUISING December20 -January06 AucklandtoSydneyplus 3nightsSydneyhoteland flighttoAuckland.Sharedshuttleincludedfrom/to Waikato,BayofPlenty. WhystayhomeandprepareChristmasdinnerwhenHolland America’s chefs aboard“Westerdam” willdoitforyou.DepartAuckland5pm20 Decemberfor Tauranga,Napier,Kaikoura, Lyttelton,Christmasdayatsea, Dunedin,FiordlandNational Parkcruising, Hobart,Melbourne,Sydney(3 nights hotel),FlytoAucklandJan06orextendyourstayinSydney.Just $5,900withbalconycabinandallshipboardmealsandentertainment. Bring theextendedfamilyforgreatrates!! AlsosailsSydney –Auckland06to20December.Christmas Shoppingspecial -no weightrestrictions! ALSO SOUTHAMERICA&ANTARCTICA...Dec202022.Dec162023.from$12,500 FRENCHPOLYNESIA including including7nightcruiseAug14-26,2023 7night cruiseAug14-26,2023 EUROPE 14nightcruiseAmsterdamtoBudapestSep01-18 HOLYLAND 14nightcruise“NieuwStatendam”Sep28-Oct17 ALSO BEST OF OFNORTHLAND NORTHLAND 4daysNov14, Feb05,$1,860 GREATBARRIERISLAND ARRIERISLAND 4daysOct18,Nov08,Jan17,March16,$1,890 COROMANDEL 3daysOct25,Dec13, 3dFeb13,$1,590 aysOct25,Dec13, Feb13,$1,590 WONDERFUL WONDERFULWAIKATO WAIKATO 4days,Dec05,Jan23,Mar27,$1,760 TARANAKI 4days,Jan30,$2,290 EAST EASTCAPE/NAPIER CAPE/NAPIER 5days,March20,$2,530 TOPOFTHESOUTHISLAND TOP OF THESOUTHISLAND 9days,Nov24,March09,$2,980 BEST OF BESTTHESOUTHISLAND THESOUTHISLAND 9days,Everysaturday,$2,890 FABULOUSFIORDLAND 7days,EveryTuesday,$2,290 7days,EveryTuesday, $2,290 PRESERVATIONINLETCRUISE 9days, 9dFeb25,$5,350 ays, Feb25,$5,350 DEEPSOUTHANDSTEWARTISLAND 10days, 10days,Feb20,$3,950 Feb20,$3,950 MAGNIFICENTSOUTHISLAND 15days, 15days,Feb18,$5,950 Feb18,$5,950 ISRAELandJORDAN (Greeceoption)16days,March31,$7,800 GREATBARRIERISLAND 4days/3nights,$1890, DepartAucklandOct18,Jan17,Mar16 IncludeshomepickupOrewato Papakura,returnairfaresfromAuckland,3 nightsaccommodation,dinner,breakfast,comprehensivesightseeingwithlocal guide,4 hourcoastalcruise,Tryphena,PortFitzroy,WindyCanyon,Hot Pools. October18only:Freehomepickupandreturn Tauranga, Rotorua,Hamilton. Howare yougettINg HoMe toNIgHt? Ifyou’reoutand having afew drinks,makesure you’vegot asober drivertogetyouhomesafely. travel Tuesday,September20,2022 | 19 GONZ: HeTa¯ngata »

atrinaDuncanlivedandcycledall overtheworldbeforefallingin lovewithTaira¯whiti,Gisborne. Todaysheistheproudco-owner ofCycleGisborne,leadingtours andsupportingmulti-dayrides aroundtheregion.

Notespecially,butGisbornehas becomemorebike-friendlysinceI’vebeen here,partlythankstoTapuwaeTaira¯whiti Trails,GisborneCycle &WalkwayTrustwhich I’vebeeninvolvedwithfor manyyears.

IsCycleGisborne aone-man-band? Igrewthebusinesswithmybusinesspartner Anelia.Over12yearsweincreasedourrental stockto50bikesandwewerestartingtoinvest inelectricbikes.Wewerealsobusywithcruises, althoughnotrecentlyofcourse,butthey’regreat forourcity.AndweestablishedtheBikesin Schoolsprogrammehere,whichwasexciting Whatwasbusinesslikepre-Covid? Wewereprettybusywithevents,cycletraining andtours.Cruiseswere abigdayforus,and multi-daytouringwasgrowingthankstoNZ CycleTrails,includingourbeautifulMotuTrails, sowewerecreatingmorepackagesaroundthat. Andnow?

Afterthefirstlockdown,wehadanincredible flurryofdomesticbusinesswhichwas exciting.

Doyourememberlearningtoride abike? Absolutely.WelivedinChristchurchandI was given alittlesecond-handbikeformyfifth birthday.Itwas aFirebirdandMumcleanedit towithinaninchofitslife. Ivividlyremember myaunt,whowasDutch, pushing mewhile saying,“GoTrin!GoTrin!”

Itook abankingroleinWellington, whichishow ImetmypartnerontheCookStraitferry.He’s Dutch,so IwentwithhimtotheNetherlands, anothercyclingmecca.Whenwehadour daughter, Ibikedtothehospital,whichwasseen ascompletelynormalthere.

Weofferallclientstheopportunitytooffsettheir carbon,andeverytimepeopleareinthevanor hireane-bikeweadd alittletoourcarbonfund whichgoestoplantingandlocalcycleways. We’vesignedTiakiPromise,thesustainability commitment,anddon’toffersingle-useplastic. WhatdovisitorslovemostaboutTaira¯whiti? They’reblownawaybyincrediblehostingin remoteplaces.Rollinguptowarmbedsand amazinghome-cookedmealsinthemiddleof nowhere.Seeingwilddeerontheroad,orhearing kiwicallatnightisalsospecial. Iloveconnecting ourmanuhiriwithourspectacularwhenua. Whatdoyoulovemostaboutworkingin tourism?

Peoplewhoridebikesarealwaysdivine.The endorphinsreleasedwhilecyclingmakepeople happier,moregraciousandgrateful.Everyone goesattheirownpace,notracingfromA toB. Ilovemyclientsbecausetheyarecool,happy peopleanditis aprivilegetotouchtheirlives.

cyclegisborne.com

I’malso acycleinstructorand Ilove seeingkids’gleewhentheygetit.When theyjumpoffthebikeanddoa fist pump. Iworkwithlotsofkidswith learningdifficulties,andit’sso rewardingtoseethemfindthatlittle bitoffreedom.Toknowtheycanbe asgoodaseveryotherkidatschool. That’sreallypowerful. Didyouimaginecyclingcouldbe yourprofession?

Whocould’veguessedwherecyclingwould leadyou,literallyandmetaphorically?

especiallylovethepeople. Ialsovalue thehistory,andoursharedfutures. It’sparadise.

Cycling tohappiness

KatrinaDuncansays Gisborneisperfectfor cycling. Photos/ Supplied

Bikesaresuch asustainablemodeof transport.Doyouhaveothersustainable philosophies?

Bikeswereourtickettofreedom, ratherthan ajob. Iactuallygraduated with aB.CominAgriculturebefore headingintohealthmarketingintheearly daysofhealthpromotion,where Iworkedon SmokefreeAotearoa.Then Igotthetravelbug andspent18monthsinJapanwhichis areal bikingmecca.

WhatdrewyoubacktoNewZealand?

HowdidCycleGisborneevolve? Thebicycleistheperfecttransport, andGisborneisperfectforcycling. It’sflat,picturesqueandthereare wineries,soin2010 Istartedtaking smallgroupsoutintheweekends,to sharethisbeautifulregion. Wasitalwaysbike-friendly?

20 | Tuesday,September20,2022 travel T&Cs: Valid fornewbookingsonlyuntil05 Oct22oruntilsoldout.Pricesare correctasat09Sep 22.Travelmustbecommencedand completedbetween01-31 May, 01Jun–06Jul&16Jul–31 Aug23. Priceisbasedonthemostdirectroutingbutmayvarydependingon stopovers,subsequent tax&surchargeincreases. Fullpaymentisrequired attimeofbooking.Min/maxstays apply. Somesurcharges,closeouts,flight, routingandaccommodation restrictionsapply.Bedding configurationsmayvaryontwinshareoptions.Twinshareisbased on twopeoplesharing aroomusing existingbedding.Setmenusordininglocationsmayapply.Any hotelcreditsthatare unusedarenot refundable,transferable &can’t be exchanged forcash. Allpackagesare basedon EconomyClassflyingSingaporeAirlinesfromAuckland to PhuketviaSingaporewithnostopovers.Availabilitymay belimited overpeakperiods.For full termsand conditionspleaseask yourHouseof Travelconsultant. Prices arebasedon paymentbycashoreftpos.Creditcardfeeswillapply.Offer availablein-storeonly.FINANCE CONDITIONS: Lendingcriteria, fees,terms &conditionsapply.Offer availablein-storeonly. Forfinancetermsand conditionsvisithot.co.nz/payment-options.Forfull termsand conditionsvisithot.co.nz/SQ1909.HOTCode –CMPSQ1909 MA RK-3004 HOT2009-NZH-SQ 8NIGHTS INCLUDED FLIGHTS INCLUDED TRANSFERS INCLUDED ALLDRINKS INCLUDED THAIMASSAGE INCLUDED ALLMEALS INCLUDED PHUKETMARRIOTT RESORT& SPA, MERLINBEACH from $2999pp FLIGHTS&8NIGHTSTAY sharetwinfrom AucklandflyingSingaporeAirlines TRAVEL: 01-31May,01Jun-06Jul &16Jul-31Aug 23 EXCITED BY APHUKETBEACHHOLIDAY? “Withourtreasuretrove of knowledgeand over34 yearsofexperience,let’s createyour perfectPhuket holidaythat’s justright foryou. With 24/7 support, accesstoCovid-19 insurancecoverandflexibleamendmentoptions,you’llhave complete peace of mind when youbook yourholidaywithus.” ALL-INCLUSIVE PHUKET Backbypopulardemand! If you’relooking foracouples getaway andenjoybeingspoilt, thereisnobetter placethanthisbeachfront paradise.Situatedamongsttranquilgardensanda secluded stretchofwhitesandonTri-Trang Beach.It’stheperfectplacetorelax, indulgeandbe pampered. ✓ RETURNFULL-SERVICEFLIGHTS with SingaporeAirlines ✓ RETURNTRANSFERS Phuket airporttohotel ✓ 8NIGHTSTAY in aSuperior Lagoon Pool View Roomwithupgrade to DeluxeLagoonPool View Room ✓ BREAKFAST, LUNCH &DINNER daily ✓ BEVERAGES -alldrinksincludinghousewine, localbeer,selectcocktails,localspirits& soft drinks ✓ MASSAGES 2x45minutemassagesper room ✓ FREE WiFi “With our treasure trove of knowledge and over 34 years of experience, let’s create your perfect Phuket holiday that’s just right for you. With 24/7 support, access to Covid-19 insurance cover and flexible amendment options, you’ll have comple of BETTER TO GETHER COM EI N- STORE IH OT.C O. NZ I0 80 07 13 715 VIEWALLDEALS

Thedistilleryputson anumberofevents aroundkeymomentsinthegatheringof botanicals —keepaneyeoutforthecallouton socialmedia.“Wedoour‘Foragingin4x4s’in September”,saysLeggett.“Thirtyvolunteers headupintothelocalpineplantationsina convoyof14four-wheeldrivesfrom alocalclub.” Theirmission:collectgorseflowersinpeak bloom.

IntheVinesVillageprecinct,about12kmoutof Blenheimcentralintheheartofwinecountry, threeupcycled shippingcontainers are home to ElementalDistillers,makersofRootsMarlboroughDryGin,amongotherthings.Every batchisdistilledinthesmall200-litrecopperpot named“FanniChanel”,theheartoftheoperation.

Alocalchefjoinstheparty,cookingup deliciouskaitofeedthetroops,andtheyalso

Atthecraftierendofthespectrum,Blenheim breweryRenaissancehavebeeninthegamefor animpressivelylong17years.Thebestplaceto get atasteofthisisinthebackyardofthe brewery,hometoDodsonStreetBeerGarden, whereyou’llbewelcomedby14Renaissanceand 10rotatingguestbrewsontap,aswellasamenu showcasingheartyGermanandItalianfare alongsideKiwifavourites.

1DodsonSt,Mayfield,Blenheim. renaissancebrewing.co.nz

Blenheimisfondlyknownbymanylocalsas BoomTown —a pieceoftriviaI discoveredonly

Anotherlocalgingracestheshelvesthere— Riot&Rosegin,whichisbasedinMarlborough anddistilledoverthehillinNelson.Jane Walkenhorsthassteppedoutsidetheboxin releasingnotonebuttwosignaturegins:TheRiot —“bold,traditional,andmellow”andTheRose —“elegant,floral,anddelicate”.Takeyourpick, orpickboth.

onarrivingatBoomTownBrewery’sbeergarden andchattingtoco-ownerCliveMcFarlaneover afewtapbeersasthesunbegantoseton afine Fridayevening.

bring aminipotup“todo alivedistillationwiththeflowers”,saysLeggett. Andin abiannualcall-out,manyhands areneededtopeelthedeliveryof600kg ofgrapefruitfroma singleorchardin Gisborne —frompicktopeel within 36hours,freshnessiskey.Thedistillerygetsthechefinonfood,there’sgin forall,and abandtoboot.

ElementalDistillersandTheGinRoom, TheVinesVillage,193RapauraRd. elementaldistillers.com;theginroom.co.nz

InthespacethatwasGiesen’sCellarDoor,the beergardenenjoys asprawlinglawn,perfectfor loungingaboutwithfriendsandfamilyand soakinguptheregion’sfamouslylongsunshine hours.

Thebrewery’sfounderswantedtocreatebeer thatwouldsithappilybetweentheverycrafty andthemorecommercial.Therangeofbeers includesAPA,IPA,pilsner,lager,andpaleale. Thelatter,theBabyBoomPale Ale(cleverly packagedwith ababybluelabel),is my pick,an easy-drinking,refreshingbrewthat’stheperfect foilafter alongday’swinetasting.Deliciouseats fromTheTacoShackoperatingonsitecomplementthebeer perfectlyandmakethis aplace worthyofsettingupfor agood, longtime. 26RapauraRd,Renwick,Blenheim. boomtown.nz

ure,thegrapesgrowwellinMarlborough,butalsogrowingis alively sceneofbrewinganddistilling,and placesinwhichtosamplethose tipples.

RIGHTASGRAIN

Joinusonthisexclusive multi-daytourdepartingfromWellingtonand Auckland. Tourincludes steam-hauledraildays,premiumaccommodationandoptionalactivities. Formoreinfoortobook:www.gvr.org.nz |Email: railtours@gvr.org.nz | Ph020GVRBOOK(0204872665) DepartsWellington16thOctober |DepartsAuckland19thOctober Anepicadventurewithmoresteamhauledraildaysthananyothermulti-dayrailtouronthemarketwithinNZ! Withplentyofoptionstosuit,thisrailadventureissuretoappeasealltypesoftravellingrailenthusiasts. $4990* Faresstarting from perperson twinshare ThisOctoberSchool Holidaysjump on boardthesesteamtraintripsinAucklandCity Steamreturns to Auckland &Waikato Saturday15thOctober Anyonecancatchanelectrictrainin Auckland -butcan you sayyouhave caughtasteamtrainaround Auckland??? Well,nowisyourchance. Joinusonthis very rare and uniqueoccasionwhereyoucanchoose to travelonanyof ourtrains "aroundtheblock"onSaturday15October. Boarding: -The Strand Station -Otahuhu 4returntrips 3returntrips WaikatoSteam Trips Joinusin Hamilton overthe7th,8th &9th of October fora series ofSteam Traintrips -suretoplease everyone! Friday7th -KingCountry SteamLimited -SOLDOUT Saturday8th-Dairyland SteamExpress -ThePutaruruFlyer Sunday9th -Waharoa SteamExpress -KingCountry Steam &Cuisine Sunday20th -Dairyland SteamExpress Formoreinfo,forothertripsortobook:www.gvr.org.nz |Ph020GVRBOOK(0204872665) travel Tuesday,September20,2022 | 21 GONZ: Marlborough » BoomTownBrewing’sbeer garden;below,ElementalDistillery inMarlborough. Photos /Supplied Marlborough’sclimateblesses notonlyvintnersbutalsothe creatorsofspiritsandbeer, writes AnnaKingShahab Beyond thevines Picton Nelson Blenheim Cook Strait Marlborough Sounds Wellington Marlborough Checklist MARLBOROUGH DETAILS

BOTANICALART

Toursofthedistillery,with atastingcomponent,canbebookedonweekdays.DistillerBen Leggetttellsmethereareexcitingplansfor2023 toopenboth adedicatedtastingroomatthe distilleryaswellas agingardenintheVines Villagecarparkarea,whichwillbe awelcome placetocallaton acyclingtour.

Formorethingstoseeand dointheregion,see marlboroughnz.com

Atthemomentthebestplacetogeta tasteoftheElemental magicis atTheGin Room,alsoinVinesVillage.Theshelvesare linedwithboutiqueNZgins,andyoucanorder atastingflight of thedifferentvarietiesofRoots gins(thiswasmybreakfastwhen Ivisited,and Iwasn’tmadaboutit)aswellorderinga ginand tonic,gincocktail,or acraftbeertoenjoyinthe courtyardoroutthebackonthelawn overlookingvines.

Thesignaturedryginisboldandjuniperforward,andfeaturesjustsixcore botanicals —there’snowheretohide;the qualityofthosebotanicalsandtheway they’retreatediskey.Apartfromthe juniper,whichiswild-harvestedin highlandMacedonia,therestofthe botanicalsaresourcedinAotearoa,as locallyaspossible.Gorseflowerfrom Marlborough,Motuekahops(anunusualingredient —itadds acitrusy brightness),Hawke’sBaycorianderseed, Canterburykawakawaberries,andgrapefruitfromsunnyGisborne.DistillerymanagerAlexvanSaarlooswasonhandwhenI visited,passingmejarsandcontainersof botanicalsinvariousstatesofdehydration,their headyaromasfillingthesmallroom.

• Selectedbeveragesincluding stillandsparkling water, juices, soft drinks, teaand coffee

• BONUS 2Night hotelstaytoexplorethecity of Athens wayﬂight fromAthens to Auckland

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venues

• BONUS Port transfer to Athenshotel

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Indian Ocean

“Thegrowthintourismoverthepastfewyears upliftedcommunitiesacrossthecountry,”says MalikFernando,ManagingDirectorofResplendentCeylon,DilmahTea’sluxuryresortarm. “Fifteenpercentofthepopulationreliesonthe industry.Thelossoftourismincomeontheback ofmajorcostoflivingincreaseshasbeendevastating.Drivers,guidesandlocalvendorshave beentheworstaffected.”

DO TRYIT

ExperienceSriLanka’sbeautiful beaches;below,Sigiriya,orLionRock,is amust-see;belowright,MalikFernando, managingdirectorofResplendent Ceylon,DilmahTea’sluxury accommodationarm. Photos /Supplied

hinkbacktoearly2019 andthedestination oneveryone’s minds/ lips/ Instagramfeeds wasSriLanka.It hadbeennamedtheNo1 countrytovisitinLonely Planet’sannualBestinTravel list,airfareswerecheap,andit seemedeveryotherKiwihad eitherbeenthereorwasplanning to.

Ambepitiyathinksnowisagoodtimetovisit SriLanka,togetaheadofthetouristcrowdsthat arelikelytostartreturning,andtomakethemost of astrongconversionratefortheNewZealand dollar.

“SriLankaissobeautiful,andit’sgotthebest food.It’sgotsomuchgoingforit,culture,people, religion,allofthosethingsareembedded together.You’vegotthebeachesforsurfing, waterfalls,rainforests —there’s alotforpeople toexperience.”

Withallthisrecenthistory,it’sunderstandableifSriLankaisn’tonyourradaratallnow bordershavereopened.However, aluxurytourismoperatorbasedtherethinksthisisamistake. Hesays nowis theperfecttimetovisitSriLanka and,forthecountry,it’simperativetourists begintoreturn.

Butoverall,Weerakoon believesSriLankaisanincrediblysafeplaceforKiwisto visitrightnowandthingsare onlygoingtogetbetter.

Sri Lanka Kandy Colombo

“Ithinkifyougowith someonewhounderstands thelocalconstraints,I wouldrecommendthat.”

AucklanderKaushi AmbepitiyavisitedSri Lanka amonthagotoattend aweddingandsayshefelt completelysafe,eveninthe bustlingcityofColombo.He travelledbylocalbusandfoundthe localsextremelywelcoming.

“Ididn’thave alocalSIMcard,I didn’thave Wi-Fi,so Iwasaskingpeopleforadviceand everyonewassohelpful,tellingmewhatbusstop togotoandwheretogetoff,”Ambepitiyasays.

Thereare anumberof optionsforgettingtoSri Lanka,butcurrently,the bestrouteistoflyto Sydney,thentake adirect flighttoColombowithSri Lankanairlines.Talkto yourtravelagentforthe bestrouteforyou.

“Wehad aNewZealandflagonthefrontof thebusandwhenweweregoingalong thestreetpeoplewouldcheerand giveusthumbsupandwave.We wouldstopandlocalswould say‘thankyouverymuchfor travellingaroundSriLanka duringthesetoughtimes’. Sothatwasreally rewarding.”

Auckland-basedSriLankan KiwiAmitaWeerakoonvisited thecountryinJuly,leading agroup ofunder-19scricketplayersand theirfamilieson acricketandcultural tour.HehasbeenleadingtourstoSri Lanka,IndiaandAustraliasince 2014,but hesaysthisonewasthebestyet.

SRILANKA:

Fernandoagrees,sayingalthoughSriLanka is asmallisland“itpacksin acontinent’sworth ofattractions”.

“SriLankahasbeenthroughsome reallytoughtimesbutSriLankansarereally resilientpeople.AndI’malreadyhearingthat touristsarestartingtocomeback,whichisgreat news.”

Checklist

“Touristswereneveratriskamongwarm and hospitableSriLankans,althoughtheheadlines seemedworrying,”Fernandosays.“Resplendent Ceylonandotherhotelsoperatednormally throughout.Thefuelsituationismuchimproved; hotelsandtravelagentshavehadpreferential access.AnimportantaspectisthatvisitingSri Lankaplaysa vitalroleinoureconomicrevival. Andyouwillbeengulfedwithgenuinewarmth.”

NewZealand’sMinistryofForeign Affairs and Trade’sSafeTravel websitehasclassedSriLankaas a“leveltwo”country,initsfourlevelsafetyratingsystem— whichmeans“exercise increasedcaution”.Forcontext, othercountriesalsoatleveltwo includeAustralia,Canada,Cook Islands,Fiji,IrelandandtheUK.

“Tohave atourwithoutanyissues,it made theexperience evensweeter,” he says.

“Anothertouristcouplegotoffatthewrong stopandsomeoneranafterthemandgotthem backonthebus.Itwouldhavebeeneasytonot careandthat’sthat,butsomeonewentafter them.

“SriLankansingeneralarereallynicepeople andtheywanttohelp,theygooutoftheirway. They’rekeentomoveonandrebuildandwelcomeforeignersbackintothecountry.”

SRILANKA

HesaysstabilityhasreturnedtoSriLankaand economicrecoveryplansareunderway,ledby newPresidentRanilWickremesinghe,whowas sworninonJuly22.

Whiletheeconomicandfuelcrisesareslowly improving,Weerakoonrecommendstravelling aspartofa guidedtourwhilethingscontinue togetbacktonormal.Tourgroupshave morecertainty aroundaccessto fuel,andcangetassistanceif thingsdorunout —something thatwouldbe alotharderif youweretravellingbyyourself.

GETTINGTHERE

DETAILS

welcomes,writes StephanieHolmes

Thensuddenlyeverything stopped.The2019Easterbombings, inwhich269peopledied,put apause totourism.Lessthan ayearlater,when thingswerepickingupagain,Covidhitand thecountrywaslockeddown.Inmorerecent months,ournewsfeedshaveshowneconomic crisis,protestsandpoliticalinstability.

“Thedollargoes alongwaythere.Interms ofaffordabilityyou’llbeabletohave adecent holidayasit’snotoverlyexpensive,”hesays.

Tourgroupsarepromisedarms-wide-open

“FortheSriLankans,duringthattime,seeing touristsinthecountrywas ahugemoralebooster tothem.Theyrealisedtheimportanceofthe touristsbeingthereandtheforeigncurrency comingintothecountry,”Weerakoonsays.“At someofthegrounds,whenwegotoffthebus, thelocalteamsandfamiliesweregivingusa guardofhonour.

Formoreinformationand advice,seesrilanka.travel

travel Tuesday,September20,2022 | 23

ExploreNorthland’scoastaldelights,beautifulbaysandhistory; journeyingfrom WaiputoPoorKnightsandCapeReinga,then backdownthe WestCoast.

Price: From$2600pernight.

NORTHISLANDTOURS

Joinusfor atrulyunforgettableexperienceasweexplorethe uniquecharacterandoutstandingpristineenvironmentof GreatBarrierIsland.

Checkin: Beforeevenenteringthehotel, aminuteisneeded tomarvelatitsfacade.Brightredawningsadornthewindows and1900matchinggeraniumsspilloverthecurvediron balconies.Hatteddoormenwhiskourbagsoutofthetaxiand IglanceattheLamborghiniinthehotel’sloadingzonebefore enteringthehotel’srevolvingdoors.Describedas“spectacular yetdiscreet”,thelobby’ssoaringmarblecolumnsandgrand floraldisplayscertainlyhitthemark,andmyeyeisdrawn tothetwinklingchandelierinitscentre.Thediscretioncan befoundinthecosyseatingareastuckedinto privatecorners behindthecolumnsandintheinimitableprofessionalismof thereceptionstaff,whogreetuswarmly.I’mstruckbyan intoxicatingscent —it’swoody,musky,masculine —andI’m latertolditis afragrancecreatedspecificallyforthehotel.

Bathroom: Designedinsignaturemarble,with adoublevanity, monogrammedbathrobes,deepsoakingtub,andseparate showerandtoilet.Heatedmirrorsare anicetouch,asarethe aromatherapyshowercapsules, whichcreateindulgentlavender,tea treeandvanillascentedwater.

ToiletriesareGuerlainEauImperiale.

24 | Tuesday,September20,2022 travel

Perfectfor: TheultimateluxuryParisianexperience:a honeymoon,anniversary,orcelebration.

CourtneyWhitaker checksinto theHotelPlazaAtheneeonthe fashionableAvenueMontaigne,Paris

Arangeoftrulydiverseholidayexperiences

We explorethelocalattractionsandsceneryofNewPlymouth and Taranaki,plusofcoursethemagicalnight-timewonderland oftheannualFestivalofLights.

Location: It’shardtomissthisbuilding,whichsitsintheheart ofoneofParis’mostfashionabletree-linedboulevards,Avenue Montaigne.

History: Parisisthehomeofsomeoftheworld’smostamazing historicalmonuments,andthisbuildingstandsproudlyamong them.Infact,thearchitectureofthehotelandsomeofits woodpanellingfeaturesonthelistofhistoricplacesinParis. TheHaussmann-stylestructurewas designedbyCharles LeFebvre,andofficiallyopenedin1913.In1946,ChristianDior openedhisfirstboutiqueonAvenueMontaigneandwasa regularguestatthehotel.Overtheyearscountlesscelebrities havebeenhostedhereanditisoftenusedas afilmset(think Netflix’s EmilyinParis,andwhilewewerethere,theHBOseries Julia wasfilminginthelobby).In2011,thehotelwasawarded theexceptional“Palace”distinction(awardedtoonly ahandful of 5-star hotels).

FoodandDrink: JeanImbertbarely hadtimetounpackhischef’sknives beforehisnewrestaurant,Jean ImbertauPlazaAthenee,was awarded aMichelinstar.It’sall marble,chandeliersandgold-leaf gorgeousness,andalthoughthe

TheCoastalNorth 8-15Nov2022, 8daysfrom$4,390pp

4-7Nov,4daysfrom$2,395pp

Room: Superiorsuite.Ourown “ParisianApartment”,witha separateloungeandbedroom,large double wardrobes,and Frenchdoorswithjulietbalconieslookingdownintothehotel’s leafyinnercourtyard.Thesuperkingbedisluxuriousin Beltramiembroideredlinen,whiletheloungehasanelegant workdeskand astunningmarblefireplacebeneath alarge wallmirror —whichwelaterdiscoverisalso atelevision. Beautifulantiquefurniture,elaboratechandeliersandfresh flowersenhancethespacioussuite,whiletheextensiveroom serviceandspamenusareallaccessiblethroughaniPad.Room optionsvary,from aclassicroom,to ajuniorsuite,tosomething alittlemorespecial,suchastheHauteCoutureEiffelSuite —whichhasviewstodiefor.

New PlymouthFestivalofLights 13-22Jan2023, 4daysfrom$1,450pp

Lookingfor aChristmas getaway?Comeandenjoy arelaxingsummerbreakexploringtheEastCoast. We spendChristmasinNapier withsomegreat opportunitiestoexploretheHawke’sBaybefore travellingtoMartinboroughwherewebaseourselves formorelocalexplorations. 23-28Dec2022, 6daysfrom$3,220pp East Coast ChristmasEscape Visitourwebsitetoseethefulltouringprogrammeor sitourwebsitetoseethefulltouringprogrammeor contactusfor contactusforacopyofourlatesttravelbrochure. opyofourlatesttravelbrochure. Contactus today0800534787 231 KahikateaDrive,Hamilton,3204 www.leisuretimetravel.co.nz Reviews » ROOM CHECKS

ExploretheBridgetoNowhere 11-13Nov2022, 3daysfrom$1,630pp

GreatBarrierIslandEscape

Above:LaCourJardin attheHotelPlaza Athenee,Paris;below, thelobby.

Anaction-packedbreaktotheheart oftheNorthIsland;enjoya gondolaride,travelup-rivertoWhanganuiNationalPark,and cruiseLake Taupo.

restaurantisshutforthesummerholidays,weareabletoenjoy breakfasthereeachmorning.Croissantsandbreadsticksare piledhighonourtable,andweorderlegrandcroissantnoisette (hazelnutcroissant),a supersizedpastryfilledwithpillowy hazelnutcream.Butit’smerelyanentree:Thespinachand goat’s cheesepuffedomeletteismypick,andthechef’s specialty,andwearealsoimpressedbymyhusband’spain perdu(Frenchtoastwithcaramelsauceand acrunchycreme bruleecrust).It’sthebestFrenchtoastwe’veevereaten,bar none.Onmyfinalmorning, Igothehealthyroute,andopt forthePlazaAvocado,withquaileggsand acitrusjus,and, enjoyitalfrescointhepeacefulLaCourJardin(courtyard), withthevinesclimbingwildlyupthewallsaroundme— magnifique!

Accessibility: Thereareseveralaccessibleguestrooms,and, withtheexceptionofLaTerrasse,allofthehotel’spublicareas arewheelchair-accessible,withwidedoorways,andelevators withBraillebuttons.Wheelchairscanalsobeprovidedon request.

Contact: dorchestercollection.com/en/paris/hotel-plazaathenee

Location: TheEsplanade,StClairBeach,Dunedin. Style: Relaxedbeach-housecool.Everything appearsfreshlyrenovatedinwhatisanolder buildingandtheresultis acomfortablewhitewalled,grey-carpeted,motel-styleunit.There’s light-colouredwoodfurniture, along black-leathersofa,withcane, bambooandraffiafurnishings.

EMAIL:info@paciﬁctrailways.co.nz WEB:www.paciﬁctrailways.co.nz

Spa: TheDiorSpahastreatmentrooms,steamrooms,saunas, and awell-equippedgym.Thereare treatmentsforalmosteveryache, painorskinconcernyoucouldthink of,includingindulgentsignatureDior oxygenatingmasksandde-stress massages.

Familyfriendly: TheSeashells,Sandcastleand Wavecapsapartmentsinthehouseeachsleep5-6 people.

Bathroom: Utterlyclean,with aheatedtiledfloor and aglassshowerstallwith astandardshower head.SouthPacificSoapCotoiletries.

Intheneighbourhood: Louis Vuittonisacrosstheroad,andDior’s recentlyrenovatedflagshipstoreat 30Montaigneisa two-minutewalk away.Nextdoor,thefashionhouse’s newlyopenedmuseum,LaGalerie Diorisdefinitelyworth avisit(the hotel’sconciergecanarrange“skip thequeue”tickets).Wandering alittle furtherbringsyoutoChanel,Gucci, Balenciaga. yougettheidea.Ifyou wanttoplaytourist,LeGrandPalais isnearby,asisAvenueGeorgeV, whichsitsoppositethePontdel’Alma,wheretouristshead topaytributetoPrincessDiana.There’salso astunningview oftheEiffelTowerhere,andplentyoftop-notchbistrosnearby.

Familyfriendly: Thehoteloffers“FamilyTime”: apackage thatincludes ahalf-priceconnectingroomforthekids,gifts, cookies,dailybreakfasts,and,biensur,champagneforthe parents.

Accessibility: AccessfromtheEsplanadeis through awidewrought-irongateandup aflight oftiledstairs.Therearenostepsintheapartments, norintotheshower.

Facilities: TwothingsarerareinParis:Liftsandairconditioning,andI’mpleasedtoreportthishotelhasboth, whichis areliefaswearrivedinthemidstof aheatwave.As wellasthespa,therearemeetingrooms, aballroom,anda choiceofeatingoptions.InadditiontoJeanImbertauPlaza Athenee,thereistheArtDecoRelaisPlaza,thelongcorridor LaGalerie,perfectforafternoonteaor aspotofchampagne, thesophisticatedLeBar,andtheoutdoorLaTerrasse.Wi-Fi isfree.

Price: $200-250pernight.

Rooms: Therearefourone-bedroomapartments withbalconiesfacingdirectlyontotheEsplanade,

travel Tuesday,September20,2022 | 25

Sustainability: Thehotelhasbeen on amissiontoreduce itsemissions,andthisincludesLEDlightbulbsthroughout, recyclingbio-wastetogenerategreenelectricity,andinstalling efficientheatingandcoolingsystems.In2012thehotelwas alsonamed a“GreenHost”bytheParisTourismOffice.

Fullyhosted,all-inclusivetours.

Contact: esplanade.co.nz

andthreetwo-bedroomapartmentsinthe bungalowbehind.WestayedintheSandune,the westernmostofthebeachfrontapartments.There is acourtyardwith apicnictable,thelivingspace isroomyandthekingbedwascomfortable.The bathroomisoffthebedroom.

Foodanddrink: Basicteaandcoffeeareprovided buttherearegreateatinganddrinkingoptions alongtheEsplanade.Starfishcafebakes allitsownpastries.Tı¯tı¯ restaurant wassuperbforlunch.Enjoy asea viewwith adrinkatEsplanade RestaurantorSaltBar.

NeilPorten staysat Dunedin’sEsplanade ApartmentsandMotel

Top;Jean ImbertauPlaza Athenee restaurant; above,a SuperiorSuite. PhotosSupplied; ScottChaumien

ESCORTEDTOURS Proudly NewZealandOwnedand Operated SouthernExplorer FeaturingovernightDoubtfulSoundcruise Departs20Jan2023 8days |$4299ppshare twin Queenstown(2nights)includingsights,TSSEarnslaw& Walter Peakdinnercruise,coachtoManapouriand throughWilmot PasstojoinourovernightcruisetotheunspoiledandunforgettableDoubtfulSound. Twin sharecabinswithprivatebathrooms,stunningscenery, onboardnatureguide. CoachviaRiverton,visit Te HikoiMuseumfeaturinglifesizedisplaysandengagingstoriesofhowourMaoriandEuropeanancestors adaptedtosurviveonnaturesedge.lnvercargill(2nights)includingvisittoBluff,enjoyavisitwithlunch at BillRichardson Transport World,(optionaldaytriptoStewartlsland). TravelthroughspectacularCatlinsto Dunedin(2nights)includingsightsandguidedvisitto0lvestonHouse. lncludesreturnairfaresAuckland/ Tauranga/WellingtonandChristchurch.Qualityaccommodation,sightseeing,fullsizetouringcoach,overnight cruiseDoubtfulSound,allbreakfasts,mostdinnersandsomelunches.FREEhomepickupandreturnwithin a25kmradiusAuckland/Tauranga, WellingtonorChristchurchAirport.Askaboutcostsfromothercentres. FREEPHONE 0800809300 54 WellesleySt WestAucklandCity TAANZbondedforyourprotectionandmemberofIata EMAIL:statltd@xtra.co.nz www.supremetoursandtravel.com INSPIREDAIRTOURADVENTURES AboardDC- nd CessnaGrandCaravanAircraft Ourdeluxe‘lowandslow’DC-3adventureisback!Fly retro-stylewithsignaturechampagneservice,nostalgic in-ﬂightcockpitvisitsand grassrunwaylandings.Seethe BOP,Rotorua,WhakaariWhiteIsland,EastCape,Hawkes Bayand Taupo –from above!PlusHobbiton,Redwood treewalk,iconicGisbornestingrays,Eastwoodhill,Cape Kidnappersgannets,Hukajetboatandmore. $4,985p/psharetwin (singleroom;$5,450) SOUTHERNWONDERSAIRTOUR 17JAN’23 &14MARCH‘23(12DAYS) Ourpremier,small group,SouthIslandadventure by privateplane &luxurycoach.ExploretheSouthinstyle –from above!FlyabovetheSouthernAlpsandviewAoraki MtCook,MtAspiring, Wanaka,theSouthernLakes,Milford Sound,StewartIsland,theCatlins,Akaroaandmuchmore too. Fourrelaxing2-nightstays toenjoyeachareain depth.SeetheverybestoftheSouthasneverbefore! $9,990p/psharetwin (singleroom;$11,400)

Style: TheembodimentofParisian chic.Levels 7and 8haverecently beentransformedintoArtDecostyle, whiletheotherlevelsarein traditionalFrenchstyling.

Photos/ Supplied

FREEPHONE:0800868766

Perfectfor: Dunedinisa compactcityandeasytoget around,sothisseaside suburb,10minutesfromthe citycentre,isanidealbasefor anyactivityandparticularly convenientifyouplanto exploretheOtagoPeninsula.If you’re asurferthere’snobetter spotforcheckingtheconditions.

Facilities: Freeoff-street, unsecuredparkingforonecar perapartmentisaccessible directlyfromtheEsplanade. Thekitchenettehas ahotplate andmicrowave.There’snoair conditioning,butefficient heatersanddouble-glazingare greatforcolderdaysandnights.You getSkyTV,Wi-Fi,anAlexasmartspeaker, andthebedsidelampshavewirelessphone chargersinthebase.

Firstimpressions: Youcannotgetany moreseafrontthanthisatStClairBeach. Dependingontheweatherandtides,thewaves eitherswashrhythmicallyovertherocksorcrash againsttheseawall.Eitherway,enjoytheviewfrom thebalcony —youcanseeallthewayalongOcean BeachtoLawyersHead,3kmtotheeast —and leaveyourwindowopenatnightfor aseaside symphony.

26 | Tuesday,September20,2022 travel Tobookcall (09)9412534 OpeningHours:MontoFri:10am -8pm |Sat &Sun:11am -7pm imagineholidays.co.nz TermsandConditionsapply,forfulldetailspleasevisitimagineholidays.co.nz.AllpricesshowninNZDollars.Pricesareperpersonbasedon 2adultssharing acruise cabinorsuiteandinclude flightsfromAuckland(regional flightsavailableat asupplement).Creditcardschargedat1.5%,ifpayingbyAMEX achargeof2.5%willbe added.ABNnumber48614987718.Pricesarecorrectatthetimeofprintandaresubjecttochange.Mainimageisintendedforillustrativepurposesonly. Bookwith Confidence Fullyprotected|Exceptionalservice &expertise |Amazingvalue Great Embracethrillinggamesafaris andVictoria FallsexplorationsinsouthernAfrica, paired with an epic MSCOrchestra cruise to Genoa, with wondrous stopsinthe Indian Ocean, Middle East andMediterranean. The MSCOrchestra Experience Combiningspacious,elegantinteriors withthebrilliantvarietyforwhichtheMSC fleet’sMusicaClassisrenownedandwith everyelementcombinedtoperfection, thestunningMSCOrchestrapromisesyou adreamcruise.Lifeonboardindulges youwitheverythingyouwouldwishforon acruiseholiday. Discover PilanesbergNational Park You’ll transferfromJohannesburg for asecludedlodgestaynestled withinthePilanesbergNational Park, aplaceof breath-taking beautyandserenityandhome toabundantwildlifeandbird species.Duringyourstay,you’ll joindailybushwalksandgame drivesinPilanesbergNational Park, athrillingwaytoexperience theincredibleAfricanwilderness andgame.Here,you’lltrackdown Africa’s‘BigFive’–theelephant, lion,leopard,Capebuffaloand rhino –andmayevenspotthem roamingnearyourlodgeroom! Cruise 28 night full-board cruise on board the unforgettableMSCOrchestra HotelStays 1night five-starstayinJohannesburgatthe Peermont D’OrealeGrandeHotelwith breakfast 3night four-starstayinPilanesbergNational Park at theKwaMaritane Bush Lodgewith breakfast, lunchanddinner 2night four-starstayinLivingstone at TheDavid Livingstone SafariLodge with breakfast 3night four-starstayinCapeTownatSouthern SunThe Cullinanwithbreakfast FullyEscortedTours WalkingtourofVictoriaFalls Safari tourofPilanesberg National Park ZambeziRiver tour on board theLady Livingstone RiverSafari CaptivationCapePeninsulatour Explore the Seychelles Anarchipelagoofmore than ahundredislandsscattered acrossthe IndianOcean,the Seychellespresent atrue tropical paradise.It’salso ahavenfora uniquearrayof flora andfauna,whilealmosthalfofitslandmassisset asideforprotectednationalparksandreserves. EX CL US IVE TO IM AG INEHOLID AYS IN CL UD ES FU LLYE SC OR TED TOU RS OF VI CT OR IA FA LL S& SA FA RIGAME DR IVES 37NIGHTS FROMONLY $10,999PP INCFLIGHTS 37 Nights |Departing8April 2023 37 Night Itinerary: Johannesburg,PilanesbergNationalPark, Livingstone,CapeTown,Durban,Réunion Island,Mauritius,Seychelles,Aqaba,SuezCanal, Heraklion,Naples,Civitavecchia(Rome),Genoa ALLFLIGHTS,TAXES &TRANSFERSINCLUDED BALCONY fr $13,999PP INTERIOR fr $10,999PP $11,999PP OCEANVIEW fr Startyourincredible37-nightadventurewith aone-nighthotelstayinSouth Africa’svibrantJohannesburg,thensavour athree-nightlodgestaywithin breathtakingPilanesbergNationalPark,relishingdailygamedrivestotrack downAfrica’s‘BigFive’intheincredibleAfricanwilderness. Then flytoLivingstone,Zambiaforanothermemorablethree-nightstay, savouring aguidedwalkaroundthespectacularVictoriaFalls –oneofthe world’sgreatestnaturalwonders –asunsetcruisealongtheZambeziRiverand elegant fine-diningonboard a1930srestoredlocomotive. Followinga flightbacktoSouthAfricaandtwo-nightstayinvibrantCapeTown, embarktheMSCOrchestraforanincredible28-nightcruise.After aportof callinDurban,you’llleaveSouthAfrica,sailingontotheIndianOceanand beautifulparadiseislandsofRéunion,MauritiusandSeychelles.Savour ataste oftheevocativeMiddleEaststoppingatAqaba,Jordanandcruisingthrough thehistoricSuezCanal,beforereachingSouthernEurope.Relishfurtherstops intheancientportcitiesofHeraklionontheGreekislandofCreteandinItaly, Naples,thenCivitavecchia(Rome)and finallyGenoa,whereyou’lldisembark andconcludeyourepicholiday. This amazing holiday includes: MSCOrchestra HighlightsofAfrica& Cape Townto ItalyCruise BOOKNOW FOR APRIL 2023

NEXTWEEK ... FromAucklandtoZagreb,ournextissueisallaboutcity breaksandhowtoacethem. Whetheryouwant aspringgetawayinoneofAotearoa’smain centres,ortojetacross theworldto acosmopolitancapitalofculture,wehaveeverythingyouneedtoknowtoplan aperfecturbanadventure.Don’tmissyourcopyof Travel,insidethe NewZealand Herald, BayofPlentyTimes, Hawke’sBayToday,NorthernAdvocate,RotoruaDailyPost and WhanganuiChronicle onTuesdaySeptember27. travel Tuesday,September20,2022 | 27

28 | Tuesday,September20,2022 travel