butwegiveyouthe bestofBrazil
HOLIDAYOFHOPE
WA’sEsperanceisa topspotforsunseekingKiwis
MOTHERLOVE Meetthegorillasof Uganda’sforests
RIDETHEK-WAVE SouthKoreaissohot rightnow
RIVERCRUISING Arecolossalships justtoomuch?
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SouthAsia: Nepal » Somuchto(Kathman)du EmmaGleason spendsafree daywanderingthestreetsin Nepal’sbustlingcapital
AhubforHimalayantrekkingand thecapitalofNepal,many travellersonlygetabriefsliverof timeinthishistoriccity.Thatwas thecaseformeonmymostrecent trip,visitinginApril.
I’dspentaweektherebefore,backin2017,so hadsomeframeofreference,whichhelped hugelyknowingwhattodoinashorttimeframe. Citieschangeofcourse—youneverreallyvisit thesameonetwice—andIstronglybelieve momentsofdiscoveryshouldbebuiltintoany trip,soIrelishedthechancetopoundthe pavementandwander.
EventhoughIwasrecoveringfromaneightdaytrekandduetoflyoutthatnight,Icouldn’t staystill.Kathmanduisaheaving,bustlingcity andit’shardtoresisttakingonthatenergy yourself.
IwasstayingatahotelbyCasinoRd,andwith theRadissonlocatedsocentrally,theperfectway toseethecityisonfoot—onceyougetused tothetrafficandcrossingtheroad(dowhatthe localsdo).
You’llseealot.Everywhereyoulookthereare businessescateringtothevisitorswhoflockto Nepal:guesthouses,hotels,tourcompanies, vehiclehire,souvenirshops,touristrestaurants.
Withthecityburstingwithlifeandcommerce, historyandculture,there’snowaytodoitall inoneday(sodon’teventry).Here’showIspent mytime.
7.30am:Readthenewspaper
IalwayspickupthelocalpaperwhenI’m travelling,partlybecauseIstillloveprint,and moresobecauseitgivesyouaninsightinto what’sgoingon.
8am:Startwithsomechai
Worthtryingwhileyou’reinKathmandu,and agreatwaytowarmupifthere’sachillinthe air(thoughit’sdeliciousyear-round).Seekout alocalspotforthebestexperience—Ivisited anestablishmentonNarayanGopalRd,around thecornerfromtheRadisson,whereI’mstaying. Ithashand-paintedsignage,melamine-topped tablesandbenches—orangeandred—anda floorthat’sseenalotoftraffic.Thechaiisgood (thefoodistoo)andIreturnedseveraltimes duringmyvisit.
8.45am:Getonthebackofabike
Myhotelarrangedformetousethelocal rideshareappPathao,whichletsyoutravelby carand(evenbetter)bybike.It’showI’mgetting tomyfirststopoftheday,andabrilliantwindin-your-facewaytosee—andfeel—thecity.
9am: VisitPashupatinathTemple
Oneofthemostmovingthingsyoucan experienceinKathmanduisavisittothisfamous HindutempleontheholyBaghmatiRiver.There you’llbeabletoobservetraditionalcremation ceremonies.LedbyaBrahman,cremationtakes fourhours,atempleguidetoldme,andthey handle60-70bodiesaday.Familymembers preparethebodiesbeforethey’replacedonthe ornatepyre.Theatmosphereisreflectiveand respectful.Andbeingabletowitnesssucha profoundmomentofgriefandritualissomething nottobeunderstated.Itwillstickwithyoufor alongtime.It’simportanttobeawareofwhat you’llbeseeingwhenyougothere—corpsesand theritualsofthecremationareallvisibletothe public—soprepareyourselfifthisisn’t somethingyou’reusedto.
Noon:Trysomemomos
Nepalisfamousforthesepillowydelights.Akind ofdumpling,theycomeinavarietyoffillings —includingbuffalo.Thebestaretheonesserved withchillichutney(thisdishisoftenlistedas “Cmomo”onmenus)andit’sarealkicker— spicy,tomato-yandintenselymoreish.Quickto
comeoutofthekitchenandevenquickertoeat. 12.30pm:IndraChowkandAsanBazaar KeentoseeasmuchofthecityonfootasIcould (andwalkoffthosemomos)Isetoutforsome ofthecity’sbazaarsandthebustlingretailand marketdistricts,whereIwantedtopickup souvenirsI’dpromisedpeoplebackhome.Indra Chowkisamarketsquare,whileAsanBazaar isahistoricpartofthecityfullofshops,stalls andpeddlers.Theenergyaloneisworththevisit.
1.30pm:DurbarSquare
AUnescoWorldHeritageSitewithpalacesand temples,YeLayeku(KathmanduDurbarSquare) sufferedconsiderabledamageduringthe2015 earthquake.Despite,orrather,becauseof this,it’sworthvisitingtotakeinthe historyofthesquareandthetollofthe naturaldisaster.Fulloflocals,tourists andbirds,themilieuisasstrikingas thearchitecture.
2pm:StickerShoponYatkhaRd LeaveDurbarSquareandheadto YatkhaRdwhereyou’llfindabrilliant stickershop.Thearrayisdizzying, spanningmotorsportandcultural iconography,flagsandregionalsymbols andtherequisiteNepalregalia.Itall makessensewhenyouseethemotorbikes, scootersandtrucksofthecity.Ispentages inthestore,withsomuchtochoosefrom,and leftwithanassortmentofstickersforfriendsand familybackhome(andforme).
EmmaGleasonsees—and feels—Kathmandufromthe backofabike;there’sso muchtochoosefrominThe StickerShoponYatkhaRd; below,avisitto PashupatinathTempleon theholyBaghmatiRiverisa movingexperience. Photos/EmmaGleason
storesthatmightcatchyoureye.
3.30pm:ChilloutintheGardenofDreams Openfrom9amto9pm,thisisanicespottoget awayfromallthebustle.Builtin1920,it’sa tranquilneo-classicalgardenandanoasison busyTrideviSadakRd.Grabacolddrinkatthe on-sitecafe.
4.30pm:Onelastwalk
2.15pm:PickupsouvenirsinThamel Thisisoneofthemaintouristdistricts,andits streetsarelinedwithanunfathomableamount ofrestaurantsandhawkerssellingeverything fromkukriknives(thenationalweaponofNepal) toKashmirishawlsandmountaineeringgear. Everywhereyoulooktherearebusinesses cateringtothevisitorswhoflocktoNepal.Take sometimetoappreciateallthesignage. IscopedoutsouvenirT-shirts.Myfavourites weretheonesthathavebeenhungoutsideon display—Iboughtaperfectlyfadedgurkha T-shirtfromaknifeshop—andalotofthese storeshavebeenoperatingfordecades.One retailerIspoketoopenedhisstorein1986, anothershopkeeper,aT-shirtpurveyor,sayshis businesshasbeengoingsincethe1980s,too.He hadoldembroideriesofTintinandCaptain Haddockmountaineeringondisplay,buthesaid thesearenolongerpopular.Heonlysellsone iterationnow,TintininNepal,whichIbought. HowmuchtimeyouspendinThamelisreally uptoyou.Popinsomewherebrieflytopickup afewbitsandbobs,orcarveoutacoupleofhours toexploreandstopbyanyofthemanycharming
Checklist KATHMANDU, NEPAL GETTINGTHERE IflewtoKathmandufrom AucklandonChina SouthernAirlines.
DETAILS ntb.gov.np Thewritertravelledto NepalasaguestofWorld Expeditions.
Isetasidehalfanhourtowalkaroundthepart oftownbehindtheold,shutteredHotelShangriLa(legendarybeforeitclosedinthepandemic). Bythenitwaslateafternoon.Iwaschasingthe sun,andthetrees,thelatterfeelslikea Sisypheantask—thebigonesaretucked awaybehindthewallsoftheoldhotel andthemyriadembassiesinthispart oftown.Ichangetackandinstead wanderandwatchthe neighbourhood.Schoolchildren headinghome,officeworkers startingtowrapupfortheday,and goldenhourdescendingonthe huddleofbuildingsandtrees— there’sdatura,bougainvilleaand jacaranda.Everythingwaslushand dusty—asrushhourtraffic(though it’salwaysrushhourinKathmandu) pickedup.It’snicetogetafeelforthe patternsofdailylife,andIalwaysmake timeforthiswhentravelling.
6pm:Fuelupwithdalbhat
Walkedupanappetite?Dalbhatisatraditional, enduringlypopulardishinNepal;it’safixture ofdailylifeandavailableeverywhere— sometimeslistedas“Nepalithali”.Comprising rice,curry,dalandpickles,ingredientsvarywith theseasonsandregions.Thegeneralconsensus seemstobethatThakaliisthebestvariationof thisdish,andyou’llfindmanyrestaurants dedicatedtothisoneinparticular.Youlikely won’tbedisappointedwhereveryougo,find somewherethat’sbusywithlocalsorlooks family-run.Iparticularlylovedthebitterpickle. 7pm:Relaxifyoucan
Afterafulldayofwalking—nottomentioneight daysoftrekkingintheHimalayas—Idecided tohaveasoakbeforetheflightbacktoAuckland. Actually,itwasaninspiredsuggestionfromone ofthestaffattheRadisson,whosaidIshould goandusetheJacuzziandsteamroominthe hotel’smainbuilding.It’sabeautifulspace:old school,tiled,withdarkwood.Onespaandone showerlater,Ifeltlikeanewwoman.
8pm:Andit’sofftotheairport
Withall-daytrafficandsomanypeopledeparting KathmandumakesureyouheadtoTribhuvan InternationalAirportniceandearly.
HURRY,ENDSTHISFRIDAY MEDITERRANEAN ODYSSEY VancouvertoSewardorviceversa
11DAYS|2COUNTRIES
7GUIDEDTOURS
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SouthAmerica: Brazil » Movetothe magic RiotheWonderful RiotheWonderfulishowRioisaffectionately knowninBrazil.Anditfullydeservesitsfame. Asatravelwriter,Ihavebeentoalmost70 countriesandIcansaywitheasethatthe geographyofRiodeJaneiromakesthecitythe mostbeautifulin“my”world.Thereis GuanabaraBayandiconicbeachessuchas Copacabana,IpanemaandBarradaTijuca, whichareframedbytropicalforestsand mountains,aswellasPaodeAcucar(Sugarloaf Mountain)anditscablecar,andMorrodo Corcovado,whereChristtheRedeemerreigns withopenarms.
ThecharmingcultureoftheCariocas(the locals’nickname)isinfectious,andtheirrelaxed, roguishandsmilinglifestyleisequallyaddictive. Until1960,Riowasthenation’scapital(todayit isBrasilia)anditisvibrantwithmusic,its passionformultiplesports(especiallyfootball andvolleyball)andthebohemianlifestyle.Feel thisasyouwanderthroughthehistoric neighbourhoodofLapa—thebestplacetofeel theenergyoftheso-calledRiobars,whichserve ice-colddraftbeer,typicalsnackssuchasfried cassavaandnationaldishessuchasfeijoada. LivemusicsetsthetoneforthesoundofBrazil, withsamba,bossanovaandcontemporaryfunk.
Inadditiontovisitingtheseattractions,it’s worthplanningafewhourstogettoknowthe charminghistoricneighbourhoodofSanta Teresainthecentralregion,watchthesunset atPedradoArpoador—onthenamesakebeach —andbesuretogotoPedradoSal,whereon aMondayyouwillfindyourselfinavibingAfroBrazilianalley,foot-tappingandhip-swingingto atraditionalsambashowofferedfreeofcharge.
FallingforIguacu
Iguacu,intheTupilanguage(oftheoriginal people),means“bigwater”.Inthesouthofthe country,inthecityofFozdoIguacu,atriple borderregionbetweenBrazil,Paraguayand Argentina,you’llfindtheUnescoWorldHeritage Site(oneof24inBrazil).Whenyouenterthe NationalParkandfeelthehumidityintheair, andheartheplummetingwatersof275waterfalls, youwillquicklyrealisethatyouareinfrontof oneofthemostfascinatingspectaclesonthe planet.
Allowatleasttwodays:onetoseetheBrazilian side,whichprovidesamorepanoramicview, withwell-organisedtrails,surroundedby tropicalforest,andanotherontheArgentinian side,whereitispossibletogetclosertothefalls throughdizzyingwalkways.Oneitherofthese days,itiswellworthtakingthespeedboatride throughthespray:thebestshoweryou’llever take.Anotherunmissabletourisahelicopter flightwhichprovidesspectacularviews.Ifyou havetime,experiencethediversityofbirdlife atParquedasAves,inadditiontotheMarcodas TresFronteirastouristcomplexandthe ItaipuHydroelectricPlant,whichisthe largestgeneratorofcleanenergyinthe world.
Portuguesetreasures
Oneofmyfavouritedestinations inBrazilisfarfromthecoast. Thehistoriccitiesinthestate ofMinasGeraisarefascinating. Iamreferringmainlytothe goldencities:Tiradentes,Sao JoaodelRei,OuroPretoand Diamantina.Theyrevealthe heritageofcolonialBrazil,the richesofwhichwereusurpedby thePortuguese(goldand diamonds),andexploitedmainlyin thefirsthalfofthe18thcentury. Justtogiveyouanideaofthecharacter ofthesecities,OuroPretohas12charming
Itischallengingtoselectahandfulofthebestdestinations fromacountrythesizeofBrazil,equivalenttoOceaniaand almostthesizeofEurope,but CarlosMarcondes givesitago
ChristtheRedeemerreignswithopenarmsoverthe beautifulcityofRiodeJaneiro;below,IguacuFallsmake upthelargestwaterfallsystemintheworld;OuroPreto has12charmingchurchesspreadacrossthehillsofits historiccentre. Photos/123rf,EmbraturSebrae,supplied
churchesspreadacrossthehillsofits historiccentre,allaccessiblealong beautifulpaths. TheroutethatthePortuguese tooktotaketheirtreasuresto Europehasnowbecomeatourist routeknownasEstradaReal. Therearefourmainpaths,with “theOld”onebeingthemost popular;a710kmroutethat leavesfrommountaintopOuro Pretotothetinyportofexuberant Paraty,onthesouthcoastofthe stateofRiodeJaneiro. Iftimedoesnotallowyouabucketlistmountain-to-coastpilgrimage,then it’spossibletovisitthesecolonialgemsin fivedaysbycar.StartinOuroPretoandthe
prettyneighbouringtownMariana,gosouthfor threehoursanddoTiradentesandSaoJoaodel Rei.Enjoyhistory,architecture,gastronomy(for me,thebestinBrazil),art—likethoseofthe fascinatingmasterAleijadinho—anda landscapeofmountainsthathidecountless waterfallsandwhereyouwillmeetwelcoming people.TheMineiros(locals)areoneofthemost affectionateandfriendlyinthecountry.
LencoisMaranhenses,anoasisoflagoons WhenI,maddeningly,22yearsago,crossedmore than50kmofadazzlingwhitedunedesert,injust twodays,barefootanddrinkingwaterfromthe lakes,IwasconvincedthatIwasinan otherworldlysetting.Iwas,infact,inoneof Brazil’spearls.Ittookawhile,butnotlongago, theworldgottoknowitwiththeannouncement thattheLencoisMaranhensesNationalParkis nowaUnescoWorldHeritageSite. ItisthelargestdunefieldinSouthAmerica, butinsteadofawaterlessdesert,MotherNature hasprovidedthiswhitebackdropwithmorethan 36,000bluelagoons,toppedupbyrainfallinthe wetmonths.
Itisoneofthemostphotogenicdestinations ontheplanet;withcontrastsofcoloursand shapesinconstantmovement.Twopicturesque townsareonoppositesidesofthepark:Santo AmaroandBarreirinhas.Thelatteriswherethe main4WDtoursdeparttoaccessthelagoonsand dunes.ThecharmingvillageofAtinshasgreat inns,almostatthefootofthewhitesandsof Lencois.Amust-seeisvisitingtheQueimadados Britosfishingcommunity,madeupofjust200
people.Itisasiftimehaspassedby, leavingthisvillageisolatedyet content,inthemiddleofa fascinating,tropicaldesert.
Salvador,Bahia—cityof faithandjoy Salvadoremanatesenergy. It’salsothecapitalof Bahia,anortheastern state.ItwasinSalvador thatCapoeirawasborn,a mixofmartialartand dance,createdbyslaves broughtfromAfrica.
ItisalsowhereSambawas born,althoughitdevelopedasa childinRiodeJaneiro.Salvador isalsohometospectacularwriters andmusicians.Thehistoriccentreof thecityiswherethePelourinho neighbourhoodshines.It’sameltingpotof colourswithfabulouscolonialbuildings spreadacrosscobblestoneslopes,whereevery February,millionsofpeople“playanddance” inoneofthemostpopularcarnivalsinthe country.
Thecuisineisuniqueandisbestenjoyed inthebohemianneighbourhoodofRio Vermelho,whereyou’llfindgreatrestaurants servingdishesfeaturingfishandseafoodsuch asacaraje,moqueca,vatapaandbobode camarao.
ItisalsocompulsorytovisittheMercado Modelo,theIgrejadoSenhordoBonfim—
Sambaoriginatedin Salvador;right,almost60% oftheAmazonisinBrazil. Photos/123rf,GettyImages
recognisableforthecolourfulribbon braceletsthatadornitsfacade— FaroldaBarraandElevador Lacerda,whichdividesthecityof BaixafromAlta.It’sdifficultto explaintheenergyofBahiabut, believeme,itwillmoveyou.
Amazon,theessenceof tropicality
TheAmazonisimmenseand coverssixnations.Almost60% ofitisinBrazilbutmuchofit isalmostuntouchedandonly
Checklist BRAZIL GETTINGTHERE FlyfromAucklandtoRio deJaneirowithone stopoverwithAmerican Airlines,LATAMand Qantas.
DETAILS visitbrasil.com/en
Thecontrastofwhitesand andclearbluewatersmake SantaAmaroabucket-list destination;above,Vero-Pesomarket,oneofthe oldestinSouthAmerica. Photos/EmbraturSebrae
determinedtravellersarewillingtofacedaysin smallboatstoreachtheseremoteregions.When wetalkaboutvisitingtheAmazon,westart mainlyfromtwocapitals,Manaus(Amazonas) andBelem(Para).
Thereareseveraltouroptionsforbothcities withdailymini-expeditionsintotheforest.Itis noexaggerationtosaythatBelemisthe gastronomiccapitaloftheAmazon,portrayedat theVer-o-Pesomarket,oneoftheoldestandmost fascinatinginSouthAmerica.Itisalsofromthe capitalofParathatthespeedboatstakeyouto Marajo,thelargestriver-seaislandintheworld, fullofbeaches,barsandaccommodationtypical ofnorthernBrazil.
FromSantarem,anotherlargecityinthestate, youreachAlterdoChao,asmallvillageonthe banksoftheTapajosRiverthatallowstravellers tomakecontactwithlocalpeople,andacomplete eco-tourismexperience,withimmersioninthe forestandencounterswithsweetpinkdolphins. Manausisthebasetoaccesstheincredible AnavilhanasNationalPark,thesecond-largest riverarchipelagointheworld,inabiomewith around400islandsand60lakes.Itisan immensewaterlabyrinth,inaregionthathas embracedsustainabilityandhasshownBrazil howenvironmentalpreservationand ecotourismcangeneratepositiveand transformativeimpactsonriverside communities.
EachvisitorwhobathesintheAmazonwaters leavesconvincedthattheworldneedstokeep theso-called“LungoftheWorld”aliveand preserved.
Australia: Onthebrightside Onthebrightside SarahPollok saysatripto Australia’sSunshineCoast doesn’tneedtobreakthe bank,ifyouknowafew cost-savingtricks
SunshineCoasthaslongbeen reservedforKiwitravellerswilling tospendupfordirectflightsorchase acheapBrisbaneflightwithatwohourdrivetotheSunnyCoast. Fortunately,it’llbeeasierand cheaperthanevertoreachthebeachy QueenslandregionfromDecemberwhenlowcostcarrierJetstarlaunchesdirectflightsfrom Auckland.
Evenbetter?Withafewinsidertipsandtricks, youcanenjoythestunningstretchofcoastline withoutpayingtopdollar.Fromsoakinguplocal vibestohikinginlushrainforestsandbrowsing largemarkets,herearesixwaystoplanacheap triptotheSunshineCoast.
StayoutsideNoosaandvisitonadaytrip NoosaisoneofthemostpopularSunshineCoast spotsbuttheresorttowndoesn’tcomecheap. Insteadofstayingintheheartofthismanicured town,pickoneofthemanysurroundingcoastal spotssuchasMaroochydore,whichhas picturesquecoastalviewsandtrendybeachfront eateriesatmorereasonableprices.Thenhopin acarandzoomuptoNoosaforadaytriptoenjoy thelaid-backluxurywithoutpayingapremium. Startthedaybywindow-shopping(oractually shopping)aroundHastingsSt’schicboutiques andtrendycafes,beforesettlingsomewherefor lunchornabbingaspotonthebeach.
DotheNoosaCoastalWalk SpeakingofNoosa,we’vegotyourafternoon planssorted,andbetteryet,itwon’tcostyoua cent.NoosaCoastalWalkisn’tahiddengemany morebutthe2.5kmtrack’scliff-topviewsofthe oceanbelowandseveralshorttracksdownto emptybeachesaretrulystunning.Walkallthe waytotheedgeofthepeninsulaandyou’lllikely spotyouthsstretchedoutacrosstherocks,taking turnsswimmingintwonaturalrockpoolscalled theFairyPools.Ifyou’relucky,likewewere, you’llalsospotpodsofwhalesinthedistance. Thewalkisbeautifulanytimeofdaybutwe recommendaimingtowalkbacktothecarpark around5pminsummer,whenthesunheads
Fromtop,tasteyourway aroundEumundiMarkets; stayinthenewlydeveloped townofMaroochydore; don'tmissoutonadayin Noosatoenjoytheboutique shopsandbeautifulbeach boardwalk;arriveearlyat KondalillaFallsandyou'll haveanaturalpoolallto yourself. Photos/Visit SunshineCoast
Checklist SUNSHINE COAST GETTINGTHERE
FromDecember13,Jetstar willoperatedirectflights betweenAucklandand SunshineCoast (Maroochydore)and Auckland.Thenewroute willoperatethreetimes perweek,year-round. AirNewZealandoffers non-stopflightsbetween Aucklandandthe SunshineCoast (Maroochydore) seasonallybetweenJuly andOctober.
DETAILS
queensland.com/nz/en/ home
towardsthehorizon,turningtheskypinkand castingagoldenglowacrossthecoastline.
StayattheHolidayInnExpress I’dbelyingifIsaidIdidn’thavehesitationsabout stayingataHolidayInnhotelbutwasgladto havemymindchanged.Thenewlyopenedhotel ismodern,bright,andpristinewiththoughtfully designedroomsatratesthatdon’tmakeyour bankaccountsweat.Wewantedsomewherenice butknewitwouldessentiallybeacrash padtoreturntoafterdaysspent adventuringandthiscertainly tickedalltheboxes.Thefree breakfastbuffetsweetened thedealtoo,allowingusto fuelupforfreebefore tacklingtheday.The helpfulstaffisanother bonus,andwhenyoufactor intheprimelocation—just ashortstrollfromsomeof thebestrestaurantsinthe area(GiddyGeishaorSoka), top-notchfitnessandyoga studios(FlowST8)—it’shardto beat.
SwimatKondalillaFalls
SunshineCoastisknownforitsbeachesbutthe Hinterlandoffersatotallydifferentexperience that’sequallycaptivating—andfree.Kondalilla NationalParkisamust-visit,especiallythe KondalillaFallscircuitwhichtakesyoudown throughnativeforesttoasmallwaterfalland largepool.Goearlyenoughandyoumightget theplacealltoyourselftoenjoythefresh mountainair,coolwaterandsun-warmedrocks.
TasteyourwayaroundEumundiMarkets TheEumundiMarketsareaSunshineCoast institutionandthelargestartisanmarketin Australia.Opentwiceaweek,onWednesdayand Saturday,themarketsboastmorethan600 vendorswhosellanythingfrompalm-reading sessionsandhand-madesoapstopersonalised jewelleryandretroposters.Ifthere’sapieceof kitschyouwant,chancesareyou’llfindithere. Ofcourse,ifyouareinthemoodtospend,wander towardsthedozensoffoodtrucksandbetempted bythearomaoffreshlybakedtreatsorsizzling dishes.Irecommendgrabbingatakeawayand settlingdownononeofthetablesnearthe buskersforlunchandashow.
Saveondirectflights
Flightsandaccommodationareoftenthe costliestpartofatripbutthereisgoodnewsfor thoselookingtosave.Cost-savvytravellers usuallynabacheapflighttoBrisbanethendrive twohoursupthecoastorbookasecondflight toMaroochydore,butfromDecember13Jetstar startsdirectflightsfromAucklandtotheSunny Coast.Thiswillslashthecostofadirectroundtripjourneyfrom$800toaslittleas$400 dependingonwhenyoubook,leavingyoualittle extracashtospendonafancymealatNoosaor handmadegoodsatEumundiMarkets.
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• Breakfastsdaily,1lunch,2dinners
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• 10DayTourNashvilletoNewOrleans
• 9NightsFirst-ClassorSuperiorFirst-Class accommodationwithprivatebathorshower
• ServicesofaTourDirectorandLocalGuides
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• Breakfastsdaily,2lunches,3dinners
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• 10DayTourSanFranciscotoLosAngeles,9NightsFirst-ClassorSuperior First-Classaccommodationwithprivatebathorshower
• ServicesofaTourDirectorandLocalGuides
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Seamlesstransportationbyprivate,first-class,air-conditionedmotorcoach withfreeWi-Fi
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• 15DayTourLasVegasReturn
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Australia: WesternAustralia » Aholiday withhope You’velikelyneverheardofEsperance,a beachtownonthesoutherncoastofWestern Australia,butwithice-whitebeaches,local creatives,greatAussiebeerandasmall-town spirittorivalByronBay,it’satopspotfor sun-seekingKiwis,writes AnnaSarjeant
EsperanceisFrenchfor hope.
I’mtoldthiswhilesitting inthebackofatiny,fourseaterplane,swooping overtheazure-blue coastlineofasmall,Western Australianbeachtowndonningthe samename.
Aswecurvearoundlow-lying clouds,I’mhopingthatIdon’t reconvenewithmybreakfast.Sure, she’ssmoothenough,butshealso feelsadandelioninthewinduphere.
fromalgaeknownasDunaliellasalina.
WhilecontemplatingwhatmiffedDunaliella, Irealisethisismysecondsmallaircraftofthe day—andit’snotevenafternoon.Thefirstwas courtesyofREXAirlines,aregionalcarrierthat linksPerthtoEsperanceviaaneasy,80-minute dailyflight.
Ifyou’relucky.
OurflightfromPerthwasdelayedfortwo hours,beforetheone-pilot,one-airsteward aircraftevencontemplatedtaxiingusupthe runway.
Welaterfindouttheinevitablehadhappened: we’dbeen“Rexed”—atermcoinedbylocals becausedelaysaresuchacommonoccurrence. Infact,hopingforahiccup-freeflightisbasically futile,you’rebetteroffsacrificingyoursuitcase onthetarmac.
Fortunately,inatownsuchasEsperance, wherethelong-haired,toplessandtannedsitin thebackofconvertedvansstrummingguitars, aroadtripisanobviousalternative.
We’reflying2000feetaboveland pockmarkedwithgreatpoolsofpinkwater— theregion’sfamedpinklakes,minusthelargest, mostfamouspinklake,whichisnolongerpink. Nooneknowswhyitlostitsmojo,butthevibrant huestillevidentinsurroundingpondscomes
HellFireBayisamisleading nameforasliceofUtopia.
Ittakesapproximately7.5hourstocoverthe 700kmtripbycar,ajourney that’ssaidtohittheroadie trifecta:winecountry, wildlifeandcoastline.
OurtimeinEsperanceis short,sowe’relearningthe layofthelandfromabove, courtesyofFlyEsperanceand a75-minutedallianceinthe sky,soakingupice-white beaches,farmlandpeppered withperfectlypinklakesand thepointedsummitof Frenchman’sPeak,partofCape LeGrandNationalPark. Bythetimeourplanelands inanemptyfield,aircraftandstomachlining fullyintact,we’rereadyforanafternoonpadding alongthebanksofMonjingupLakewith DabungoolCulturalExperiences.
WhilelearninghowAboriginalcommunities livedofftheland,ourguide,JulieDabungool exposesthewhite,waterytubesofthetwining fringelilyandweeatthem—enthralledbythe weirdandwonderfulaspectsofnature,andthe Aboriginalingenuitytoutiliseitinawayeven Googlewouldn’tfathomtoday.
Wedepartwhentheimpendingsunsettellsus toandnightfallsthickandfast,eveninspring. Meremomentslateranddarknesshas envelopedouraccommodation,leavingnothing butfairylightstoindicatewe’vearrivedat EsperanceChaletVillage—acollectionofallwhiteA-framehideawaysandasmatteringof upmarketshacks.I’mstayinginthelatter. By10pm,I’minadeep,silentsleep.Iwake eighthourslatertothatrarephenomenonknown ascompleterefreshment.
ThesunisburningbrightlyandIdon’tknow ifit’smygorgeousaccommodation,Insta-worthy breakfastfromLauren’sLarder,ormy undisturbedsleep,butthedayhasashinyfilter onit.
Alas,itisshort-lived.Thesunretreats— ominouslyandtellingly—aswestepaboardour scenicwildlifecruisewithEsperanceIsland Cruises.
We’vealreadybeenRexed,nowwe’reabout togethexed.
Atsomepoint,Idistinctlyremembersomeone sayingwe’dpickedastellardaytobeonthe water.
Ifstellarmeanstwo-metrewaves,anonexistenthorizonandtwobagsofvomit,thenwho amItoargue?I’mnotsurethegrandadtomy leftspewingintothesamebagashisgrandson agreed,northeblokewhoemptiedhisgutsand promptlypassedout.
Likeanyonewhoexperiencesseasickness,I wishedforittoend.Which,mercifully,itdid, halfanhourbeforewere-foundthedock.Ithink therewasaseaeagleandaseal,andoncethe sunreappeared,aglimmer(ofhope?)aswellas
JoinusinArtDecoNapierandexperiencean unforgettable,immersivefestivalbuzzingwith vintageplanes,speakeasybars,andclassiccarsallsetagainstthestunningbackdropofthe ArtDecoCapital!
Forthefirsttimeinadecade,thesteamtrainreturns, offeringthrillingexcursions,communityshuttles,and aspecialdinnertrain!
2025alsomarks100yearssincetheParisWorldFair. CelebrateinstyleatMissionEstate’sFêteChampêtre withlivemusic,lawngames,andFrenchcanapés.
Andthat’sjustthebeginning!Withafulllineupof spectacularevents,here’satasteofwhat’sinstore:
•MemorialFlyingDisplays
•FridayNightwiththeNavy
•VintageCarParade
•DecoDecadenceGrandBall
•DecoDogParade
•ArtDecoFashionontheForeshor
•SoapBoxDerby
•TremainsGatsbyPicnic
Fullprogrammeandtic
e d tickets:
www.artdecofestival.co.nz
ThefestivalisproducedbyArtDecoTrust 7TennysonStreet,Napier
Photo/AnnaSarjeant
Withterrafirmaonceagain stabilisingmystomach,wedrive toYirriGroveOliveFarmand Restaurantforolivetastingand lunchthankstohusband-and-wife duo,AnneandShaneO’Neill.
Olivesarehand-picked(and reared)ontheproperty,squeezed andbottledusinganindustrialoil pressthatsitsbehindthe restaurantcounter—ungainlyand cumbersomelikeamisplacedthug sittinginyourgrandma’skitchen.
YirriGroveisanaward-winning oliveproducer,buttheambienceon siteisdistinctlylow-keyandwholesome. Instantlylikeable.
Ginghamteatowelssitbesidetheslightly threateningaluminiumolivepress,andit’s delightfullyjarring.
CindyPooleisaself-taught glassartist;Esperance ChaletVillage’sA-frame hideawaysandupmarket shacks. Photos/Tourism WesternAustralia platinumsandandbrightblue sea.I’msureit’sdelightfulona stellarday.
Later,awalkthroughtheolivegrove culminatesinhome-madesconesslatheredin thickcream.Shanemakesthecoffee.He’saKiwi, soit’sgood.
TheO’Neillshavemoreenergyandpizazzthan youraveragegrandparents.Whenweleave,it’s withreluctanceandfondness—likeleavingyour nanna’shouseaftershe’sspoiltyourottenall afternoon.
There’snotimeformalaisethough,Esperance maybesmallbutwe’vegotaworkshoptoattend.
CindyPooleisaself-taughtglassartistwith atalentforexquisitepiecesofjewelleryand championingsustainability.Betweenthe glitteringnecklaces,inspiredbyEsperanceand itscoastallandscape,thegallery-cum-workshop isrepletewithpiecesmadefromreusedglass, suchasginandwinebottles—becausenothing says“oceanblue”likeBombaygin. Cindyalsoglitters.Sheiscaptivating.
Checklist ESPERANCE GETTINGTHERE
Flynon-stopfrom AucklandtoPerthwithAir NZinabout7hours. TheflightfromPerthto Esperancetakesroughly1 hour,20minutes...Or3 hours-plusifyouget Rexed.
DETAILS westernaustralia.com/ nz/home
AformerPEteacher,she nowleadssustainableglassartworkshops, coveringeverythingfromglasscuttingto sandingandfrosting.Youfindyourselfwanting tobethestarpupil.
It’salsohardtopullawayfromher$300 necklaces;glowinglikekryptonitewitha similarlydebilitatingeffect.Imoveawaybefore mycreditcardgetsapoundingandconcentrate allmythoughtsondinner.
NotwantingtostraytoofarfromEsperance’s Frenchorigins(minusthefactAustralianssay “Asprance”andIcanhearmyhighschoolFrench teacherwinceeverytimetheydo),tonightwe dineatBistroLouis.It’sasmall,French establishment,whereifithadn’tbeenforthe4pm scones,I’dhavepracticallyinhaledmyconfitof duck.ChefRogerPoutetlearnedFrenchcooking fromhisfather,butmenuoptionssuchas“shark pie”keepthingsproudlyAustralian.
Onourlastday,wecatchaglimpseofthe region’smostfamousasset.Thecoastline. Notably,LuckyBay—praisedasthewhitest beachinAustralia.
Ifyoudon’thaveahippievanfortheexcursion, EsperanceCoastalTourswilldeposityouona
selectionofastoundingly beautifulbeaches,including HellFireBay,whichisa misleadingnameforasliceof Utopia,aswellasLuckyBay, whereIcanconfirmthesandis absurdlywhite.
Withpermission,Ipouredan inchortwointomywaterbottle, laterawkwardlyexplainingto NZbiosecuritywhyIhada spoonfulofsandinmybag.The chaponthedesksaiditwasodd. Conversely,Ifoundhissurprise odd.I’vewatched BorderSecurity Theladywhotheninspected thesand—notatallperplexedby mychosenloot—spiltalittle.Sheexclaimedat thewhiteness.Forasecond,IthoughtImight getstrip-searched.Soyes,thesandisvery,very white.
BackinEsperance,wefinishedthetripwith acoldbeerandwoodfiredpizzaatLuckyBay Brewery:amicrobreweryusingbarleydirectly sourcedfromlocalfarmers.TheonlyAustralian brewerytodoso.
Iwasequallyimpressed(potentiallymoreso) bythebrewery’ssize,whichincludesan expansiveplayingfieldforkids,completewith playground(bothinsideandout),andalife-size woodenboattoclamberover.Thespaceisfully containedandperfectlysafe,solostsprogsare aneedlessworryforadultsonanall-daysesh. Insidetheenormousbreweryhangar,there’s ascatteringofcomfysettees,wherewefindtwo elderlyfolkhavingasnooze.Apparently,they’ve beendozingforhours.
Ididn’tcatchwhytheyhadsuccumbedtoa siestainthemiddleofabusybreweryona Sundayafternoonbutthereasonseemed blatantlyobvioustome. Clearly,they’dbeenRexed.
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Fromone mother toanother Fromone mother toanother TrekkingthroughUganda’slushBwindi ImpenetrableForest,Iunearthedprofound connectionsbetweenmyrelationshipsand thegorillasIencountered.Whoknewthat thesemajesticcreaturescouldholdupa mirrortoourownlives,writes AmyBizzarri.
AMain,AmyBizzarri's adventurethrough Uganda’sBwindi ImpenetrableForest broughtherfacetoface withgorillasandgaveher deeperinsightsinto parenthoodandconnection; theforestishometonearly halfoftheworld’sremaining mountaingorillas. Photos/ AmyBizzarri,123rf
ScanthisQRcodewith yourmobilephoneto findmoregreattravel tips,adviceand inspirationfrom nzherald.co.nz/travel
ttheripeyoungageof50,Ifound myselfonthebrinkofalongawaited,bucket-listadventure: finallypenetratingtheso-called BwindiImpenetrableForest, armedwithnothingbutmywits, apairofsturdyhikingboots,andalongstanding desiretomeetourdistantrelatives,thegorillas. AsIsetoffonthisquest,Icouldn’thelpbut chuckleattheirony—impenetrable,myfoot! Theyclearlyhadn’tmetadeterminedmiddleagedexplorerwannabewithapenchantfor wildlife,eagertoprovethatageisjusta numberandadventureistimeless.
LocatedinsouthwesternUgandaand borderedbytheVirungaMountainsof RwandatothesouthandtheDemocratic RepublicofCongotothewest,theBwindi ImpenetrableForestisoneofthemost biodiverseecosystemsintheworld. It’salsoacrucialsanctuaryandhometo nearlyhalfoftheworld’sremainingmountain gorillas,oursecondclosestanimalrelatives afterchimpanzees.Despiteourobviousphysical differences,weshareabout98%ofourDNAwith gorillas.
Preparingtohikethisstoriedforestinsearch ofgorillasrequiresstaminaandcareful planning.
IthoughtIhadeverythingcoveredformyhike: apermitandaguidesecuredwellinadvance— IsignedupforasmallgrouptrekwithIntrepid Travel—sturdyhikingboots,waterproof clothing,andhigh-energysnacks.Insect repellentcontainingDeet?Check.Long-sleeved shirtsandpantstuckedintotwopairsofsocks topreventbites?Check.Smallfirstaidkitwith antihistamines?Check.Hydrationandaltitude acclimation?Checkandcheck.
ThereIwas,feelingliketheultimateprepared, hardcorehiker,struttingconfidentlyintothe deepforestthroughtheBuhomagateonthe park’snorthernedge,whensuddenly,Ifelta burningsensationcrawlingupmypants.
Fireants Despiteallmyprep,theselittlenightmareshad launchedafull-scaleinvasion.BeforeIcould react,my(thankfully,female)trekkingguide sprangintoaction,yankingdownmypantsand swattingthosefireantsdeadintheirtracks.I stoodthere,pantsaroundmyankles,feeling embarrassedandrelieved(butmostlyrelieved). Onceweeradicatedtheantarmy,Ipulledup mypants,dustedmyselfoff,andcontinuedthe hikeasifnothinghadhappened. Gorillas,itturnsout,dealwithfireantsall
thetimebyavoidingant-infestedareasand groomingeachothertoremoveanypesky invaders.
Whoknewwehadsomuchincommon?
AsIsteppedfurtherintothelush,green wonderland,everyturnrevealedanew surprise.Ispottedadazzlinggreatblue turacowithitsstrikingblueandgreen plumage.Imarvelledatthetoweringgiant lobelias,theirtallspikesofflowers standingoutinthedensegreenery.
Myanticipationturnedintoutterawewhen Ifinallyencounteredafamilyofmountain gorillas,theMishayagorillagroup,goingabout theirdailylifeinasmallclearing.
Istoodbehindathicktree,abouttwometres awayfromthefamily.Therustlingleaves providedaperfectcoverasIobservedthem quietly,doingmybestnottodisturbtheirnatural rhythm.Theybarelynoticedorcaredaboutmy presence,continuingtheirinteractionsand playfulanticsasifIwerejustanotherprimate oftheforest.
GETTINGTHERE Gorillasformlifelongbondswiththeirfamily membersandevendistantrelations,muchlike humansdo.Myheartracedwithpurewonder andamazementasIquietlywatchedthefamily’s ninemembers—onesilverback,fiveadult females,onerelativelynewarrival,andtwo playfulinfants.
ThegorillamumsoftheMishayafamily,with theirdark,densefur,expressivebrowneyes,and gracefulyetstrongbuilds,effortlesslycaredfor theiryoungwhilenavigatingthethickforest.
Iwatchedonemotherswiftlyguidethetwo infantsastheybalancedalongafallentree, showingthesameprotectiveinstinctsIhadwhen IcrossedbusyChicagostreetswithmytwokids. Mydaughterisnow15,andmysonis23years old.Still,asIobservedthesetwoinfantgorillas, withtheirfluffyblackfur,inquisitiveeyes,full ofcuriosityandexcitement,andtinyhandsand feetthatgrippedthetreewithsurprisingagility astheywobbledandregainedbalancewithabit ofhelpfrommum,Irecalledmysonand daughter’sadventurous,curiousspirits.Both humanandgorillayoungstersengageinplay, whichiscrucialfortheirphysicalandsocial development.
Meanwhile,theyoungestgorillanestled againstitsmother,grippingherfurwhileeagerly nursing.Themumsoftlygroomedherbabein armswithsuchtendernessasitsnuggledinto her,closingitseyesinuttercontentment.This poignantscenebroughttearstomyeyesasit remindedmeofcountlessnightsspentrocking myownbabiestosleep,feelingtheirsmallbodies relaxanddriftoffinmyembrace.
Gorillainfantsaretypicallynursedbytheir mothersforaboutthreetofouryears,atime that’scriticalfortheinfants’emotionaland socialdevelopmentastheylearnessential behavioursandskills,suchashowtoforagefor foodandhowtogetalongwithothers,bystaying closetotheirmothers.
Icouldn’thelpbutsmileattheuniversal
TheBwindiImpenetrable Forestislocatedin southwesternUganda, alongtheborderwiththe DemocraticRepublicof Congo.It’spartofthe largerBwindi ImpenetrableNational Park,knownforitsrich biodiversity,andisa UnescoWorldHeritage Site.Thebestairporttofly intoisEntebbe InternationalAirport.From there,youcantakea domesticflighttoKihihi AirportorKisoroAirport, whicharetheclosestto thepark.Thedrivefrom EntebbetoBwindican takeabout8-10hours,so flyingisquicker.Youneed agorillatrekkingpermit, whichyoucanbook throughtheUganda WildlifeAuthority(UWA). Forinternationaltravellers, it’softeneasiertobook througharegisteredtour operator.Iparticipatedin asmallgrouptrip organisedbyIntrepid Travel.For accommodations,I recommendFourGorillas Lodge:it’slocatedinthe Rushagasectorofthepark andisonlyabout10 minutesawayfromthe gorillatrackingstarting point,makingitvery convenientfortrekkers.
DETAILS bwindiforestnationalpark.com
Gorillamothersnursetheirinfantsfor aboutthreetofouryears,fostering strongsocialbonds;left,adominant malemountaingorilla.
DiscovertheislandofMadagascar–a landofuntamedbeauty.Fromavenues ofmassivebulbousbaobabs,tospotlessbeaches,nationalparksandrainforestsfilledwithuniquecreaturesas wellacolourfulcolonialtownsteeped inhistory.Weinviteyoutojoinusas weexploreMadagascar,itsuniquerain -forests,amazingexoticanimalsand plants,includingendemiclemursand rareorchids
languageofmotherhood,playfulness,andlove inaction.
Weshareothersimilaritieswithgorillaswhen itcomestobeingamum:thegestationperiod forfemalegorillasisabouteight-and-a-half months,quiteclosetotheninemonthsin humans.Pregnantfemalegorillasexperience hormonalchangessimilartohumanmothers, includingmorningsickness.Bothhumanand gorillamotherstypicallygivebirthtoone offspringatatime.
Justashumanshaveextendedfamilies,gorilla groupsoftenincludeaunts,uncles,andcousins, allofwhomplayaroleinraisingtheyoungones. Gorillamothersinthesamefamily,or matrilinealgroup,oftenmaintainclose connectionsthroughouttheirlives,supporting oneanotherthroughparenthoodandtheirelder years.
Onemoment,Isawoneofthegorillamums gentlyticklingoneoftheinfants,whoresponded withgleefullittlegruntsandattemptedto clamberontoherback.
Thenextmoment,anothergorillamum approached,takingoverthegroomingduty, meticulouslypickingthroughtheyoungster’sfur andremovingtinybitsofdebris.
Thelittleonesmovedfreelyfromonegorilla mumtoanother,seekingcomfort,play,and grooming.IfeltasifIwaswitnessingascene straightfrommyownfamilygatherings,when mysister,aunts,andclosefemalefriends gatheredtogetherwithourkids,seamlessly steppingintocareforthelittleones,playing games,sharinglaughs,andofferingcomforting hugs.
Meanwhile,Mishaya,thesilverbackmale leaderofthefamily,stoodonguardwithanair ofcalmauthority.Hewouldoccasionallygrunt softlytokeepthegrouptogetherandseemedto takeaparticularinterestinthetoddlers’antics.
Protectingthefamilyisthesilverbackmale’s priority.Saveforwhenhepausedtopickhisnose andinspecthisboogerbeforeeatingit,hekept aconstanteyeonhisfamily,hisimmense
strengthaloneanimmediatewarningtoanyone, humanoranimal,whodaredtocometooclose tohislittleones.
Thereareafewkeydifferencesbetween humandadsandgorilladads:whilehumandads canbephysicallyprotective,too,socialand emotionalleadershipoftenplayabiggerrolein humanfamilydynamics.Andunlikethetypical humandad,whoisusuallyinamonogamous relationship,asilverbackoftenhasmultiple femalepartners.
Returningtomycampthatevening,Iwasfilled withanevengreaterrespectforgorillas.My encounterwiththeMishayafamilyhighlighted thesharedbonds,love,andcommunalcarethat existwithinbothhumanandgorillafamilies.It wasaheart-warmingreminderthat,despiteour differences,wesharefundamentalvaluesand connectionswithourprimaterelatives.Ileft feelingthatweneedtoprotectgorillasand endangeredspeciesmorethaneverbecause, ultimately,theyteachusmoreaboutourselves. Despiteafewmosquitobites,Ihadsuccessfully penetratedanimpenetrableforest,an achievementthatmadethishumanmumproud. Icouldn’twaittosharemyadventureandphotos withmyowntwohumankids.
Toptipsforresponsiblegorillatrekking WhentrekkingtotheBwindiForestinsearch ofgorillas,chooseatravelcompanywithastrong commitmenttogivingbacktolocalcommunities andsupportingconservationefforts.Intrepid Travel,forexample,partnerswithRainforest Rescuetodriveconservationeffortswhile offeringlife-changingexperiencesfortravellers. Considerdonatingto(CharityNavigatorfivestarrated)charitiesthatsupportgorilla conservation,suchastheAfricanWildlife Foundation(AWF),whoseconservationprojects includeeffortstoprotectgorillahabitatsand promotesustainabledevelopmentinlocal communities,ortheGorillaRehabilitationand ConservationEducationCentre(Grace),a charitythatrehabilitatesorphanedgorillas.
Photos/123rf
EastAsia: SouthKorea » 1
It’seasytogetthere
TwoairlinesofferdirectflightsfromAuckland toSeoul:AirNewZealand’sseasonalservice operatesfromOctobertoMarch,whileKoreanAir fliesyear-round.Iflewwiththelatter,myfirsttime withthenationalairline.EconomyClasswas packedtothegillsbothways(11hoursup,justover 10back),butaswithall787Dreamliners,there’s decentlegroomandcomfort.TheKoreanAircrew wasfriendly,helpfulandefficient.
2
It’seasytogetaround
SouthKoreaisfabulouslysimpletonavigate. Seoulhasacomprehensivepublictransport network,withasubwaysystemthatwindsaround thecitylikespaghetti.Stationnames,exits, directionalinformationandpublicaddress announcementsareinEnglishandKorean.There arefrequentbuses,andwell-signpostedstreetsif you’reonfoot.Bullettrainswilltakeyououtside thecapitalquicklyandcomfortably.
3 Technologymakesiteveneasier
DownloadtheNaverMapsappbeforeyouleave NZ.(GoogleandApplemapsdon’tworkwellthanks toastand-offaboutwhatdataandlocation informationisauthorisedtobestoredandshared.) Naveristhemainsearchengineusedby Koreans;NaverMapsitslocationapp,offeringthe bestoptionsfordriving,publictransportand walking.Subwaydirectionsincludewhichexitto takefromthestation,meaningyou’llalwaysfind yourselfintherightspot.
FreeWi-Fiiswidelyavailableor,foraddedpeace ofmind,buyaroamingpackfromyourservice providerbeforeyouleave.
4
Itfeelsincrediblysafe
WalkingaroundunfamiliarcitiescanbenerverackingbutinSeoulIneveroncefeltunsafeor threatened,evenbymyselfafterdark.Seoulisa 24-hourcityof10millionresidentssothereare alwayspeoplearound,andeventhemostrandom alleywaysarelitbythemanyandvariedlate-night foodstops.Thiscomeswiththeusualdisclaimer ofalwaysbeingawareofyoursurroundings,and notdoinganythingsilly,butSeoulfeltlikeoneof thesafestdestinationsI’vetravelledtosolo.
5 Koreanpeoplearefriendlyandhelpful EveryoneIencounteredwaspolite,respectful andhelpful.Thelanguagebarrierwasnoproblem thankstoanotherusefulapp,Papago,whichyou cantypeorspeakintoforinstanttranslation. Papago’sAIwillconvertphotographedtext (menus,signs,etc.)intoEnglish.
6
It’sculturallycoolandgettingcoolerall thetime Tourismtothecountryissteadilygrowingthanks toincreasinginternationalawarenessofallthings K-culture,fromK-drama,popandbeautytofood, fashionandaward-winningmoviesandTVshows like Parasite and SquidGame.Dubbed“theKorean wave”,theK-coolfactorshowsnosignsofstopping.
7 Youcanvisit16UnescoWorldHeritage Sitesinonecountry... Andthereare14moreonthetentativelist.From shrinesandtemples,tohistoricvillagesandlava fields,thediverselistofculturalandhistoricsites spansmuchofthecountry.
8 ...AndfiveroyalpalacesinSeoul ChangdeokgungistheonlySeoulroyalpalace ontheUnescolist,buttheothers— Gyeongbokgung,Changgyeonggung,Deoksugung andGyeonghuigung—arejustasworthyofyour time.AllwerebuiltduringtheJoseondynasty,the lastandlongestimperialdynasty,whichruled from1392to1910. Changdeokgungisthebestpreserved; Gyeongbokgungisthelargestandconsideredthe mostbeautiful.Itsexpansivegroundsand buildingsaresurroundedbymodernskyscrapers, butstepthroughitsgrandgatestoanothertime. Theeleganthallsandpavilionsarepaintedin vibrantcoloursandadornedwithdetailed carvings,nexttotranquillakesandwillow,maple andgingkotrees.VisitlateOctober/early Novembertoviewtheleavesintheirautumnal finest.
Korean You’llseemanypeople—Koreansand internationaltouristsalike—intraditional hanbokdress.Aswellasgivingauniqueselfie opportunity,hiringandwearingtraditional costumemeansfreeentrytothepalace.Findrental shopsinstreetsaroundthepalace.
9 Seethecityfromthetop Getasenseofjusthowsprawlingthecityis withatripuptheNSeoulTower—236mtall, ontopofthealready243mNamsanMountain. Walkupthemountainusingthewellmaintainedstonestepswithinthe historiccity’sancientwalls,ortakethe cablecartosaveenergy.Fastliftstake youtothetopofthetowerandona cleardayyouget360-degreeviewsof thecityandfarbeyond...including fromthetoilets,thankstofloor-toceilingwindowsinthecubicles.
10 Getanartsandculturefix attheDDP TheZahaHadid-designedDongdaemun DesignPlaza,orDDP,isanarchitectural spectacle,withitscurvingliquid-like futuristicform.Inthebustlingfashiondistrict ofEulji-Ro,DDPishometoregularexhibitions, conferences,adesignlab,showsandartsmarkets, andhasawalkableparkontheroof.Thereare freedailyguidedarchitecturaltourswithan English-speakingguide,althoughIfounditnear impossibletobookviatheirwebsite.Email
TourismtoSouthKoreais steadilygrowingdueto increasinginternational awarenessofallthings K-culture;below,Gwangjang
Lookingforatrendingdestination Holmes saysSouthKoreaissohot
destinationtoaddtoyour2025holidaylist? hotrightnow,andthesearejust25reasonswhy
ddptour@seouldesign.or.kraheadofyourtripand someoneshouldbeabletoassist.
11
TheNationalMuseumisworld-class YoucouldeasilyspendadayattheNational MuseumofKoreabrowsingitsextensivecollection ofartefactsdatingbacktothePalaeolithicperiod, artworks,sculptures,impressivedigital immersionexhibitions,andgorgeouslandscaped gardens.Themuseumspansthreefloors,has Englishtranslationsofmostexhibit information,andthere’sasubwaystation withinitsgrounds.
12
Andthat’sjustoneofthe manyculturalsitestosee Otherimpressivemuseumsand galleriesincludetheWarMemorial ofKorea,NationalMuseumof ModernandContemporaryArt (MMCA),theNationalFolkMuseum (withintheGyeongbokgungpalace grounds),SeoulMuseumofHistory, LeeumMuseumofArt,National MuseumofKoreanContemporary History,andtheSeoulChildren’sMuseum. Checkwebsitesforopeninghours—most closeatleastonedayaweek.
13
Korea’smostfamousauthorisnowa Nobelprizewinner InOctober,HanKangbecamethefirstKorean writertowintheNobelPrizeforLiterature.Read
wave destinationtoaddtoyour2025holidaylist? Stephanie hotrightnow,andthesearejust25reasonswhy
Kang’sbooks(2016BookerPrize-winning The Vegetarian, HumanActs and TheWhiteBook) anywhere,butonlytravellerstoSeoulcanvisit herbookstore.Onulbooksisanindependentstore inthetrendySeochonneighbourhood,andsince Kang’swin,hasbecomeapilgrimagesiteforfans.
14 Seoulisnotaconcretejungle
ThecapitalcityismuchgreenerthanI imagined,withpeacefulparks,forest,anda gorgeouswalkwayalongsidetheCheonggyecheon stream—alovely,coolplacetobeonahotday.
15
Findthehistorichousingdistrict...but keepyourvoicedown BukchonHanokVillageinSeoul’sJongnodistrict isoneoftheremainingareasoftraditionalhanok housing.Thestunningslopingstreetswerehome tohigh-rankinggovernmentofficialsandnobility duringtheJoseonperiod;nowthehousesare heritage-protectedandcarefullyrestored.Tourists flockhere,whichcanmakeforacrowdedwalk andfrustrationsforlocals.Signseverywhereask visitorstorespectresidents,keepvoicesdown,and onlyvisitbetween9amand5pm,Mondayto Saturday.Wardensinyellowtabardsdoleout regular“shushes”ifchattergetstooloud.
16
Youcanshoptillyoudrop Megamallshouseinternationalbrands unavailableinNZ,likeUniqloandMuji,aswell asKoreanfashionandlifestylebrands.Vintage andantiqueshoppersarewellcateredforatthe
DongmyoandHwanghak-dongfleamarkets.Stock uponKoreanbeautyproductsattheubiquitous OliveYoungstores(likeabeauty-focusedChemist Warehouse).
Ifyou’vegotcashtosplash,Gangnam’shighendboutiques,toprestaurants,andcosmetic surgeryclinicsmakethisSeoul’sequivalentof RodeoDrive.
17 Koreahasathrivingcoffeeculture... Fromobligatoryinternationalgiantslike Starbucks,todomesticchainslikeATwosome Place,TheVentiandMammoth,youcansatisfy acoffeecravinganytimeofday.Caffeinehit afterhours?HeadtoaGS25,CU,or 7-Elevenconveniencestoreandpickup achilledcoffeepouch,forpouring overice.
18 ...Andthat’snottheonly drinkKoreansenjoy AlcoholisabigpartofKorean culture,whetherit’sthe traditionalfermentedricewine soju,localbeersalongsidefried chicken,orelaborateconcoctionsat aworld-classcocktailbar.
There’salsomakgeolli,alightly sparklingfermentedricewine.It’smore viscousthansoju,withafunky,tangytaste —somewherebetweennaturalwine, kombuchaandaYakult-likeprebiotic.Thereare manyvariationsandaboomingbatchofyoung
TheDongdaemunDesign Plaza,afuturistichubforarts andfashion;enjoydelicious Koreancuisine;NSeoul Towerofferspanoramiccity viewsfromatopNamsan Mountain;below, CheonggyecheonStream,a peacefulurbanwalkwayisa favouriteamonglocalsand tourists. Photos/Getty Images,StephanieHolmes
makgeolli-makers,similartoNewZealand’scraft beerscene.
BarsItriedandlovedinSeoulwerePer(natural wine)andColtrane(jazz),bothintheChungmuro district;NamsanSoolClubinYongsan(winesand makgeollibytheglass);andBarPommeandBar Cham,award-winningcocktailbarsinJongno. IfyouleavethebigcityandheadtoGyeongju [see#25onp20],trackdownBarBoon,asmallyet perfectlyformedcocktailbarwithfriendlystaff andaninnovativedrinkslist.
19 You’llnevergohungry... Firstthingsfirst,getatasteforthe traditional,andwe’renotjusttalkingkimchi, friedchickenandbarbecue. Miyeok-gukisaseaweedandbeefbroth soup,traditionallyeatenonyourbirthday. Overdoneitonthesoju?Orderhaejang-guk orsoljuk—whichtranslatesto“soupto chaseahangover”,andcomesinmany variations,usuallyincludingcabbageand meat,inarich,nourishingbroth. There’salsobulgogi(marinatedsliced meat),bibimbap(abowlofricewith vegetables,kimchi,meatorfishand condiments),jeon(savouryfritterswith kimchiorseaweed),gui(grilledmeatorfish, oftencookedovercoalsinthemiddleofthe table),variousnoodledishes,driedfish,supersweetdessertsandmuch,muchmore.
Turntop20
EastAsia: SouthKorea » RidetheKoreanwave Fromp19 20 Snackyourwaythroughthedayon streetfood
Therearestreetfoodstallseverywhere—outside subwaystations,atmarkets,andliningcity streetsandalleyways.Havesomecashinyour pocketandspendanafternooneating.
Must-triesincludegimbap(Korea’sversionof sushi),jjin-mandu(steameddumplings),twigim (similartoJapanesetempuravegetables), soondae(bloodsausage),tteokbokki(spicyrice cakes),chapssaltteok(riceballsfilledwithred beanpaste),dak-gangjeong(seasonedfried chicken),kochi(foodservedonskewers,like grilledchicken),andhotteok(deep-fried pancakesfilledwithhoney,cinnamon,peanuts, andbrownsugar.IfyouvisitthecityofBusan, lookoutforthelocalspecialityversionfilledwith blacksesame,pumpkinandsunflowerseeds,and caramelisedsugar...decadentanddelicious).
Goodplacestosamplealloftheaboveare Seoul’sGwangjangmarketandBusan’sGukje market,butaskyourhotelorguideto recommendonenearyou.Andifyoudon’tknow wheretostart,bookafoodtourwithalocalexpert whocanshowyoutheropes.
21 Getonefreshfoodexperience...ifyou dare Lookoutforplacesservingsan-nakji—where alivelong-armoctopusistakenfromatank, killedanditstentacleschoppedandservedon aplatewithsesameoilandseeds.
Sofar,sosedate?Anoctopus’complexnervous systemmeansitsarmsstillsquirmandwrithe evenwhenseveredfromitsbrain.Chewquickly —thesuctioncupshaveahabitofstickingto yourtongueandteethandcouldpotentiallycause achokinghazard.Thetastewasquiteblandto mypalate—definitelyoneforthe“tryonceto sayyou’vedoneit,butneveragain”files.
22
Themoderndiningsceneisworldclass Ifyou’vewatchedNetflix’s CulinaryClass Wars,you’llhavesomeideaoftheall-starchefs cookingalloverSeoul.Aswithanyfast-growing, high-tech,moderncity,it’safoodieparadise, with177MichelinGuideinclusions,andmore than45restaurantswithoneormoreMichelin stars.
23
GetoutofSeoulandheadtotheDMZ NovisittoKoreaiscompletewithouta daytriptotheDemilitarisedZone,otherwise knownastheDMZ.Aboutanhour’sdrivefrom Seoul,youmustvisitwithaguide.Arriveearly asticketscanonlybeboughtonsiteontheday ofentry,andwaittimescanbeexcessiveinpeak season.
You’llbeallocatedatourtime,transferredto atouristcoachanddriventokeysitesinthe historyofthewarbetweenNorthandSouth, includingthethirdinfiltrationtunnel,Freedom Bridge,andtheDoraObservatory,whereyoucan seeacrosstoNorthKorea(you’restill2kmaway fromtheborderandunlikelytoseeanyNorth Koreanmilitarypersonnel).Yourpassportwill becheckedbysoldiersasyoucrossintotheDMZ itself,andyoucan’ttakeanyphotoswheninthe activemilitaryzones.Theonlysouvenirtotake backisonepurchasedfromthegiftshop.
24 Visitthebeach...
Justovertwohoursbybullettrainfrom Seoul,Busanisathrivingportcityofmorethan 3.5millionpeople,popularasaweekendbeach breakandholidaydestinationforKoreans. Oneofitsmaintouristattractionsisthe GamcheonCulturalVillage,distinctly reminiscentofItaly’sCinqueTerre—colourful houses,clingingtomountainsideswithsea views.Oncearundownshantytown,it’sbeen redevelopedandtransformedintoanartsand culturehub.Nowyoucanwanderthesteep,
meanderingstreetsandstairways,pastbrightly paintedhouses,visitgalleriesandartexhibits, andseestreetartandsculptures.
AtthelivefishmarketsinBusan’sdowntown area,lookoutforgaebul.Translatedas“dog’s penisortesticle”,you’llunderstandwhywhen youseeit.There’salsoDongbaekparkfor tranquilityandcoastalviews,andHaeundae Beach,withacleansweepofgoldensand,gentle wavesandstreetsofrestaurants,barsand shopping.
25 ...Ortheformercapital,fullof ancienthistoryandculture GyeongjuwasthecapitaloftheancientSilla dynasty,from57BCEto935CE.Historicalsites includeBulguksa,anancientBuddhisttemple, andtheSeokguramGrotto,hometoagiantstone carvedBuddha,bothdatingbacktotheeighth
Bulguksa,anancient Buddhisttemplein Gyeongju;atraditional hanbokdress;top,inBusan, GamcheonCulturalVillage isknownforitsvibrant, CinqueTerre-likehouses. Photos/StephanieHolmes, KoreaTourism,123rf
century.Morethan200ancientburialmounds, risingupfromthegroundlikenondescripthills andhillocks,aredottedaroundthecity.Careful excavationhasrevealedhiddentreasures—the tombsofSillakings,queens,andnobility,buried alongsidetheirjewels,goldcrowns,swords, paintingsandrelics.Twenty-threetombsare foundwithinthefree-to-enterDaerungwon AncientTombComplex.Payavisitorfeetosee insideanexcavatedtombtolearnmoreabout itsconstructionandthesecretsfoundinside. Inthehistorictowncentre,traditionalhanbok houseshavebeenconvertedintoshops, restaurants,cafesandbarsandthere’sabuzzy —albeitslightlytouristy—vibe,dayandnight.
StephanieHolmestravelledtoSouthKoreacourtesyof KoreaTourismbutallrecommendationsareherown. Tofindoutmorevisitenglish.visitkorea.or.kr
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GoNZ: Foodandbeverage » MISSION DELICIOUS AnAirNZteamflewtoMarlboroughtocreatetheairline’s firstwinecollection—and SarahPollok wastheretohelp
WhenIshowmyhusbanda pictureofmecarefully mixingrawwinesalongside awinemakerinTaylor’s PassVineyard,helaughs.It is,Imustadmit,pretty ironic.Picturethequintessentialwinesnob,with aprecisenoseandbouquetofunusualadjectives todescribetheexpensivedropstheyenjoyand Iamtheexactopposite.
Atarecentwinetastinghostedbyafriend, thegroupwasamusedandastonishedbyhow Iblindlyselectedthe$5cleanskinasafavourite abovethe$500bottleseverysingletime.
Yet,thereIwas,sittingalongsideShane WilliamsonandMattWalker,(responsiblefor curatingAirNZ’sloungeandin-flight experiences,respectively)andwinemakersVilla Maria’sTomDixon,andIndevin’sJasonCook. Thetaskbeforeus?Createtheairline’svery firstwinerange.
Thisisn’ttheairline’sfirstforayinto viticulture.In2023,itcollaboratedwithVilla Maria.However,thisrangeisblendedfrom scratch;aprocessIknewnothingabout.
Webeginwiththesauvignonblanc.Likea winetasting,everyonehassixglassesbutinstead ofholding“finished”wineyou’llfindinabottle, wereceivecloudy,lemon-coloured“rawwine”, whichhasbeenfermentedbutnotyetfinedor filtered.First,wemustblend;astepInever realisedexisted.
See,althoughallthewinecamefrom thesamevineyardandgrapevariety,no twoharvestyears,vinelocationsor bunchesfermentthesame,meaning each“batch”hasadistinctflavour. Blendinginvolvesselectingonebatch tobethe“base”andaddingothersto createaromaticortexturallayers.
Butfirst,wemusttasteeachoneand notetheflavours.For15minutesthereis nothingbutacollectionofcrystaltings, swishesandsplattersaspeopletasteandspit thewineintosmallbarrels.
Eachglasstastesdifferentbutexactflavours evademeandIgetthefeeling“tastesgood”and “notasnice”aren’tacceptabledescriptions. Fortunately,I’mnexttoCook,andlikean unpreparedstudent,Isneakalookathissheet, whichiscoveredinwordssuchaspotpourri, capsicumand“aromaticallyexpressive”.
differentpercentagesof variouswinebatchestofind theperfectblend. Photo/SarahPollok
Next,ShaneandMattdiscusswhattypeof winetheywanttocreate.
“Itneedstobeaworld-classexampleofasav blanc,”saysWilliamson.“Somethingthat’s reallyrecognisablyMarlborough”.Thewords “premium”and“high-quality”arethrownacross thetable.
Anotherfactorfewothercompanieswould considerwhencreatingawineishowitwilltaste at30,000feet.Theteamknowsitneedsawine thatcancutthroughataltitudebutalsobe enjoyedintheKoruLounge.
Aftermoreswillingandspitting,six winesarewhittleddowntofourandthen three.Wemix75%ofone,25%of another,tastethenadjustto65%, 25%and10%.Atthispoint, awkwardwithmylackofwine prowess,IhelpAndrewWilson, anassistantwinemakerat Indefin,measuretheportions. Twomoretriesandthegroup landsonablendDixondescribes as“verypretty”,whichhe clarifiesisagoodthing.
“Forpeoplewhothinkalot aboutwine,it’lltickalotofboxes” headds.Thisistheothertensionto navigate;awinethatwinemakerslove isn’tnecessarilysomethingthepublicwill enjoy.It’spossiblywhytheyaskmyopinionon thefinalpinotnoirblend,assomeonewhoflies oftenbutcan’ttellaChateauLafitefroma cleanskin.
Afterconfirmingit’s“bloodygood”,Jason describesitas“sophisticated”andtheblending isdone.
Thefinalstepsaretoaddsomesugarsand blenditonamuchlargerscale,Cookexplains. Then,it’llbebottledandgivenalabelthatwill berevealedinMarch2025,whenthetwowines arerolledoutinPremiumEconomyandAirNew Zealandlounges.
Foralimitedtime,thewineswillbeserved duringKoruHouronselectdomesticflightsor youcanbuybottlesexclusivelyattheAirpoints store.
Whereveryouenduptryingit,makearemark aboutthetasteofdriedcherrytolooklikeapro.
Cruising » Choose yourkindacruise Whencolossaloceancruisesprovetoomuchforthehumble traveller,turntorivercruising,writes NannetteHolliday
Ilovecruising.It’sconvenient.Iunpack once,andmyhoteltravelswithme.It’s sorejuvenatingtowakeuptoadifferent viewanddestinationdaily.
Growingup,Ienjoyedoceancruiseswith myparents,visitingdifferent destinationseveryyear.Therewerenopool slidesorkids’clubs,butIdidn’tcare. Itwasaneraofdressingupnightly. Myfatherworesuits,andMumandIwore glitteringgowns.Ilovedthesplendourofdining withthecaptainandsashayingaroundthedance
floorwithDadoracrewmemberafterwards.
Manyofthesetraditionshavedisappeared, withoceancruiseshipsnowmuchlarger,more familyorientated,andseeminglyaffordable.But are5700passengerstoomany?Itwasforan introvertlikeme,especiallybeingjostledwhile liningupfordinneranddisembarkingatthe ports.
Thisyear,I’veenjoyedseveralrivercruises. Eachwasrelaxing,culturallyinformative,and affordable.I’msurprisedIdidn’tdiscoverthis sooner.
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Tourhighlightsinclude:
•VisitthehistoricTivoliGardensinCopenhagen
•ExploreFotevikensMuseuminMalmö
•VisitVasaMuseuminStockholm
•IcelandicLavaShowinReykjavik
•AmphibianboattouronJökulsárlóninIceland
Rivercruisesofferaquieter, moreintimatewayto exploretheworld’s waterways,withfewer passengersandmore inclusions.
Photo/PaulHilbert
So,whatarethedifferencesbetweenoceanand rivercruising?
Sizeisthemostnotable.Rivercruiseshipsare lowandsleek,designedforsailingunderbridges. Theyhaveonlytwoorthreedecks,includingthe topopensundeck.Hometoupto200passengers, manyhaveanadults-onlypolicy.
Becauserivercruiseshipsarenarrower,all stateroomsaresimilarlypricedanddeliver beautifulviewsoftheever-changing,sun-kissed countrysideandquainttownsviaanopen-air balconyorexpansiveopeningwindows. Interactingwithpeopleonshoreorinpassing boatsisjoyful.
Infact,ifitweren’tforthepassingscenery, Iwouldn’thaveknownweweremovingmostof thetime.
Manyoceancruiseshipstodayaremassive floatingresorts.Thelargesthas20decksand accommodates7600passengers.Thislimits wheretheydock,whichisusuallyfurtheraway fromatown.
Oceancruiseshipshaveavarietyofroomsto suitmostbudgets.Thecheapestareinsidecabins withnowindows.Outsideroomsrangefrom fixedportholewindowstobalconyroomsand massivestaterooms,withpricesvarying accordingly.
Ifyou’repronetomotionsickness,bringyour medications.It’snotallplainsailinginthewideopenocean,withrockingandrollingalmostthe norm.
Thenextnotabledifferenceiswhat’sincluded inthecost,theactivitiesandfoodsavailable.
gratuitiesisaddedtoyouraccountforpayment attheendofthecruiseunlessyou’reonaluxury shipwithanall-inclusivepackage.Ifyouwant togoashoreandnotonanexcursion,itcanbe costlyasportsareusuallyfurtheroutoftown, oryoumayhavetogoashoreviaatenderboat.
Onarivercruise,everythingisincludedin theupfrontprice:Wi-Fi,threemealsdaily includingthree-courselunchesandfour-course dinnerswithpairedwines,cocktailsanddrinks intheloungewithcanapes,nightlydanceand music,ashowortwo,culturallectures,andmost excursionswithaguideorheadsetinyour language.
Theonlyadditional“expense”onmyriver cruiseswasanenvelopeleftonmybedfor optionalcrewgratuitiesforplacementinabox beforedeparting.
Varietyisthespiceoflifeonboardocean cruiseships.Thereareoodlesofspacesand activities,withsomethingforeveryone, alleviatinganyboredomfromseadaysbetween portsandcountriesvisited.
There’saplethoraofeateriesandbarson boardoceancruisers.Discoveraworldof restaurants,buffets,pizzabars,sweettreats,and more,withmanyopen24/7.Hitthecasinoor nightclubandmarvelattheimpressivenightly showsinagrandtheatre.Alternatively,escape tooneoftheswimmingpools,somewithslides oractivityzones.Thereareclubsforkidsfor whenyouwantsomeadulttime.
However,thecostofanyexcursions,drinks (particularlyalcohol),specialityrestaurants,WiFi,spa,hairandbeautytreatments,anddaily
ExploreNorthlandwithEase Unlikeoceancruises,river cruisesoftenincludeall meals,drinks,excursions andgratuitiesintheprice; top,rivercruisescovera particularregion—Viking Osirisisdesignedtocruise Egypt'sNileRiver Photo/ GregoryGerault,supplied
Butifyoulovetograzeallday,youbetterbring extrasnacksonyourrivercruise,asthere’sonly onerestaurantforbreakfast,lunchanddinner. Forme,therewasmorefoodthanIneeded,and Ithoroughlyenjoyedeverydailymealasthey showcasedthefoodsandwinesoftheregionswe weretravellingthrough.
Rivercruisescoveraparticularregion. They’reimmersive.Theystopdailyfor excursions,sometimestwice(morningand afternoonindifferentports),eachtakingaround twohours.Anyfull-daytoursincludelunch ashore.However,ifyoustayonboard,it’seasy togetonandoffandwalkaroundthetownwhere theshipisdocked.
Choosingacruiseisamatterofpersonal preferenceandneeds.Butnomatterwhatcruise styleyouchoose,cruisingmakesforamemorable holiday.
Justremember,notwocruiseshipsarethe same.Forme,sizeandinclusionsmattermost. I’mperfectlyrelaxedattheend,andnotstressing abouthowmuchextraI’vespent.
Europe: River cruising » Vienna
If you fly into Vienna, your adventure will start here, although you could easily reverse the route and begin in Budapest Four days is enough to sample the highlights It would be tempting to linger longer, as it abounds with history and culture Vienna was the seat of the Habsburg empire for centuries and is home to a plethora of palaces and museums
Hofburg palace is arguably Vienna’s “mustsee” attraction; the imperial palace is one of the largest palace complexes in the world It houses several museums, charming courtyards, a silver collection, and even a Spanish Riding school Schonbrunn Palace and gardens would rival Versailles for beauty and grandeur, so it’s no surprise it was awarded Unesco World Heritage Site status in 1996 Allow half a day to see the palace as the grand baroque interior and grounds are vast
Belvedere Palace was the former summer residence of Prince Eugene of Savoy The two baroque palaces are separated by beautiful grounds, but the main attraction is the art galleries, home to Gustav Klimt’s The Kiss Vienna has more than 100 museums it even has a dedicated Museums Quartier Wien, filled with art institutions, restaurants and cafes Vienna offers a museum for every interest, from Sigmund Freud, to Beethoven, to Natural History
If you only visit one, make it the Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien, which offers several museums in one Its picture gallery boasts works by Raphael, Velazquez, Rubens, Rembrandt, and Titian After meandering through museums, clear your head by climbing to the top of St Stephen’s Cathedral The cathedral has been an emblem of the city for centuries, and the roof offers spectacular panoramas (as well as a close-up view of the spectacular tiled roof)
No visit to Vienna would be complete without a trip to the Vienna State Opera Fans of ballet or opera can book one of the many performances, but it’s also possible to take a guided tour and marvel at the impressive auditorium, grand staircase and tea salon
Foodies shouldn’t miss Vienna’s open-air market, Naschmarkt Its 120 market stands and restaurants offer everything from Viennese delicacies to Vietnamese spices
Vienna has a great cafe culture, and there are myriad charming spots to punctuate a stroll through the city If you only sample one thing in Vienna, it has to be the chocolate cake Or to be precise, its signature Sachertorte
Bratislava
Bratislava, capital city of Slovakia, is smaller and less famous than its neighbours It may not be as vibrant as Vienna or as beautiful as Budapest, but it’s well worth spending a day or two here (depending on your travel connections) to experience its unique charm Plus, as it’s only 70km from Vienna and 200km from Budapest, it’s an easy way to tick another European capital off your bucket list
Bratislava is a compact city, making it easy to cover most attractions on foot The exception is Devin Castle, 10km west of the city If you only have one day in Bratislava, I’d suggest spending your time in the old town seeing the main attractions, so you can meander through the charming cobbled streets at a more relaxed pace
The iconic Bratislava Castle is an ideal spot to orient yourself and enjoy great views across the city From there, wander towards the striking green copper roof of Michael’s Gate, the entrance to the old town
Don’t miss Cumil, (man at work), one the most photographed statues in the city You can find him on the corner of Panska St
Budapest Beautiful Budapest has a kaleidoscopic charm, with something to excite or enchant every traveller Whether you’re looking for picture-perfect castles, great nightlife or are keen to sample the famous thermal baths, Budapest has it all
It’s a fantastic fusion of the two former cities of Buda and Pest, split across either side of the Danube Three days will allow you to see the highlights
The west side is home to the charms of Buda Head to Castle Hill to see the Royal Palace, which is divided into three museums: the Hungarian National Gallery, Budapest History Museum and the National Library
Slightly further out of the city centre is the striking Blue Church as well as Grassalkovich Palace, the official residence of Slovakia’s President When the President is in residence it’s possible to watch the changing of the guards in the front courtyard
The Slavin Memorial was built in honour of the Soviet soldiers who died during the liberation of Bratislava in World War I It offers spectacular views over the city
There are plenty of restaurants to dine after a busy day of sightseeing If you’re keen to sample a traditional Slovakian dish, look for Bryndzove halusky, (potato dumplings topped with a soft sheep’s cheese and smoked bacon) or pivny syr (beer cheese) I sampled pivny syr at Bratislavsky Mestiansky Pivovar, a microbrewery in the old town Yes, it’s a cheese made from beer what’s not to like?
You won’t have time to visit them all in a day, so choose wisely
The highlight has to be the stunning seven towers of the ornately carved Fisherman’s Bastion, a Unesco world heritage site as part of the Buda Castle quarter
From here, you can walk up Gellert Hill to visit the Liberty Monument, with panoramic views across Budapest
Due to its 120 geothermal springs, Budapest is famous for its thermal baths
Gellert and Rudas Thermal Baths are on the Buda side of the river The famous Szechenyi Baths are on the Pest side Each has different offerings and price points, so it’s worth doing your research and booking ahead
The iconic Hungarian Parliament dominates the Pest side of the river It’s possible to visit the inner chambers of this Unesco site by booking ahead online (there are limited tickets available on the day) The building is striking when lit up at night and some of the best views can be found from nearby Chain Bridge, one of the city’s most famous bridges
Also on the Pest side is St Stephen’s Basilica, a must-visit church in the city It’s worth climbing the tower just for the 360-degree views
If you’re feeling peckish, head to Central Market Hall Established in 1897 and set over three floors, it’s a labyrinth of stalls brimming with fresh local delicacies
Budapest has a lively nightlife scene and its ruin bars are world-famous The pubs are set up in previously abandoned buildings and are full of strange art and reclaimed junk
Nine days, three cities, one trip to remember
Accommodation » Abitofprivacy,please! Whydohotelbathroomsfeellikepeepshows,asks AndreaSachs LosAngelescomedianFahimAnwar wasshoweringatanAustinhotel whenhereachedboilingpoint. Aswatersprayedontothefloor, ashallowpoolforming,herealised hecouldnolongerstaysilentabout thepartialdoor.
“IhaveexperienceditsomanytimesthatI waslike,‘Enoughisenough.Thismustbe addressed,’”Anwarsaid.“Iamsotiredofthe lackofdoors.”
Thatnight,heperformedastand-upbitabout theshower’shalf-partitionthatwasmorethan ajoke;itwasatruth.Thecrowdrelated,laughing hard.
Hotelshavebeenremovingdoorsonthemost privatesanctum,thebathroom.Intheirplace, designersareinstallingflimsycurtains,frosted orfoggedglass,saloonorslidingdoorsor, sometimes,nothing.Thedoorlesstrendcomes withconsequences,fromwipeoutstoindecencies thatyoucan’tunsee.
Theindiscreetarrangementcanleadto awkwardoralarmingmomentsbetweenfriends andpartners.OnHotels.com,aguestatcitizenM inDCsaidherhusband“foundgreatjoy”in startlingherwhileshesatonthetoilet.
Managementrespondedthatthebathroom designwaspartofa“uniqueconcept”that providedan“openandmodernexperience”.
“Hasanyoneelsenoticedatonofhotelsnow haveopen-planbathroomswithzeroprivacy?” aReddituserpostedlastyear.“Whowantsto watchtheirfellowtravelleronthetoilet?”
Maybeit’sbesttonotanswerthatinthe affirmative.Butmanytravellersarevocalabout theirdiscomfortwiththisconcept.
Basedonthepopularityofthistrend,however, itdoesnotseemthehotelindustryhasreceived themodestymemo.
“Thebathroomissupposedtobeasanctuary,” saidDavidEisen,vice-presidentandeditor-inchiefof HotelsMagazine.“It’stheoneplacein ahotelroomwhereyouwanttofeellikeyou’re privateandalone.”
Andyet,atmanyproperties,includingthe mostwholesomechains,thebathroomsfeellike veritablepeepshows.
TheStandardaside(infamousforitsnonreflectiveglasswindowsand“exhibitionist” design),mosthotelsdonotintentionallytryto createarisqueenvironment.
Designerssaythebathroomshouldbe,first andforemost,functional.Fromthere,theycan addluxurioustouches,artfulflourishesorspalikeelements.Theyalsoaimforcohesion,sothe roomsflowtogetherlikealatter-dayFrankLloyd Wrighthome.
“Hotelbathroomsareoftencompact,requiring designerstomaximisefunctionalitywithout sacrificingaesthetics,”saidLaurenImburgia, seniorprojectdesignerwithGettysGroup BespokeInteriorsStudio.“Balancingtheneed foramenities,likeashowerorbathtub,withthe limitedsquarefootagecanbetricky.”
Designersareoftenhemmedinbysizeand budget,bothofwhichcanberelativelyskimpy. Substitutingtraditionaldoorswith unconventionalalternativescansavemoneyas wellasspace,evenifitisjustanillusion.
Glasspanelscandrawnaturallightintoa windowlessordarksetting,reducingthereliance onoverheadlighting.Fewerstructuresand barrierscanbeaboonforhousekeepers,who oftenhaveonly30minutesorlesstocleanaroom.
“Withfewermaterialsthatgointomakinga distinctlyseparateroom,it’salowerbuild-out cost,”saidCameronSperance,aseniorhotels reporteratThePointsGuy.
BeccaRoderick,designdirectorofinteriorsat MorrisAdjmiArchitects,saiddesignersmust findabalancebetween“pushingthedesign
envelopeandreallygivingpeopleprivacyto tacklethosefunctions”.AttheForthinAtlanta, whichopenedthissummer,thefirmerecteda reededglasspocketdoorbetweenthebedroom andbathroomthat,shesaid,has“anelementof surpriseanddelight”.
Designerssaytheyareacutelyawareofthe verypersonalpurposeofthebathroomandare sensitivetohowguestsengagewiththese intimatespaces,especiallyinthecompanyof others.
MargaretMcMahon,globalpracticeprincipal atWimberlyInteriors,saidherteamhasin-depth conversationsabout“bathroombehaviour”. Theytakeintoaccountthevarietyofguests checkingin,suchascouples,friendsandwork colleagues,andthemyriadactivitiesthatoccur inthebathroom,includingbathing,makeup applicationandbodilyfunctions.Theyrecognise thatcomfortlevelsvarywildly.
“Therearepeoplewhojustletitfly.Theysit inthebathroomatthesametime.Shecouldbe inthetub...andhecouldbedoinghisthing overthere,andtheysimplychat,”shesaid.“I haveneverdonethatwithmyhusband.I’mlike, ‘That’snothappening.’”
Designersalsotakeintoaccountthesounds andsmellsthatguestsdonotwantothershearing orsniffing.
“Soundtransmissionisarealissuefor people,”saidMcMahon,whoadmittedtorunning afaucetwhenshevisitsafriendatherStRegis suite.
Barndoors,McMahonsaid,arenotthebest atmufflingnoise.Butdesignersmustsometimes resorttothistypeofdoortoavoidcollisionswith otherstructuresthatswingout,suchasshower
Designersareoften constrainedbysizeand budget,substituting traditionalbathroomswith unconventionalalternatives thatmakesometravellers feelexposed. Photo/Olena KamenetskaonUnsplash
ScanthisQRcodewith yourmobilephoneto findmoregreattravel tips,adviceand inspirationfrom nzherald.co.nz/travel
andwaterclosetdoors.“Tryingtocreatethebest bathroomexperiencewithintheirbudgetand mechanicalparameters,sometimesprivacyis justnotgoingtohappen,”shesaid.
Guestsuneasyaboutexposingtheirtravel buddiestotheirprivatebusinesscanalwaysuse apublictoiletelsewhereinthehotel,suchasby thefitnesscentreorpool,banquethallor restaurant.
“Ifyouwanttomaintainsomeprivacy,just godowntothelobby,”Sperancesaid.“I’vedone thatwithfriendgroupsandevenmyown husband.”
Non-exhibitionistscanbreatheasighofrelief thatseveralaspectsoftheexposedlayoutare fallingoutoffashion.
GregKeffer,partnerandstudioleaderatthe RockwellGroup,saiddesignersareresponding toguestswhohaveexpressedtheiruneasiness withhavingtheshowerinthebedroom’ssight lines.Hesaidtheopenplanconceptisevolving intoamorediscreetbathhouse-style.
“Thewallsandkerbsareremoved,”hesaid, “buttheentirewetzoneiscontainedand private.”
McMahonsaidthepartialglassdoorshower, whichoriginatedinEurope,isheadedtowardthe exit,ontheheelsoftheshowercurtain.
Takingitsplace:slidingglassdoors.Fogged glass,whichshecalleda“gimmick”,hastoo manyglitches.Glassisstillacceptable,asare tubswithaview,afeaturethatguestswillable tofindatanewViceroyhotelinPortugal.But forextraprivacy,atleastfromoutsideeyeballs, thewindowoverlookingagolfcoursehasahigh sillandshutters.
—WashingtonPost
GoNZ: NewZealandTourismAwards » BEST RealNZscoopsupthreeof14awards,writes SarahPollok
SouthIslandtourismoperator RealNZhasbeencrownedthe SupremeOverallWinnerattheNew ZealandTourismAwards.
RealNZalsowontheKiwiRail TourismEnvironmentAwardand theJohnston’sCoachlinesTourismExcellence Award(LargeBusiness).
TheawardswerehostedbyTourismIndustry Aotearoa(TIA)atCordisHotelinAucklandlast week.
RealNZchiefexecutiveDaveBeechecollected thesupremeawardonbehalfofthebusiness.
“We’rereallylookingforwardtocontinuing playingasmallpartinthefuturegrowthofNew Zealandtourism,”Beechesaid.
“Wewillcontinuetomakesurethatevery visitorwhocomestousleavesNewZealandwith agreatstorytotell.”
RealNZoperatesdozensofactivities,cruises andtoursinQueenstown,MilfordSound, DoubtfulSound,TeAnauandStewartIsland.
ThecompanyrunstheiconicTSSEarnslaw LakeCruiseandQueenstownJetBoataswell asCardronaAlpineResort.
Commendedforits“unwaveringcommitment tosustainability”byawardjudges,thecompany wasdescribedasajewelinthecrownof Aotearoa’stourismindustry.
“RealNZhavemovedfromanature-based businesstoaconservationadvocacybusiness. They’veclearlymovedtheneedle—and continuedtoevolvetomeettheneedsof customers,”judgessaid.
Theawardswhittled120entriesdownto47 finalistsand11finalwinners.
EntriesrangedfromhugeKiwicompanies withglobaloperationstosingleguides.Allwere commendedforprovidinguniqueexperiencesto visitors.
OtherwinnersincludedTerraandTide,which runstours,walkingtripsandsailingsaround WaihekeIsland.Thetouroperatorwona TourismExcellenceAwardintheMicro Businesscategory.ThesameawardforaSmallMediumBusinesswenttoTePa¯Tu¯(previously TamakiMa¯oriVillage),whichalsowonthe NZMEVisitorExperienceAward.
Thisyear’s winners AirNewZealandSupremeTourismAward RealNZ
Ta¯takiAucklandUnlimitedTourism
ExcellenceAward(MicroBusiness)
TerraandTide
TourismIndustryAotearoaTourism
ExcellenceAward(Small-Medium Business) TauharaNorthTourism—TePa¯Tu¯
Johnston’sCoachlinesTourismExcellence Award(LargeBusiness) RealNZ
WayfinderCommunityEngagementAward iFLYIndoorSkydiving
NZMEVisitorExperienceAward Tauhara NorthTourism—TePa¯Tu¯
TourismTalentEmployerofChoiceAward GORentals
KiwiRailTourismEnvironmentAward RealNZ
Toroaa¯-uta,Toroaa¯-taiMa¯oriTourism Award KohutapuLodge&TribalTours
TourismIndustryNewZealandTrust
IndustryCollaborationandAlignment Award Ta¯poiTeMoananuia¯Toi/TourismBay ofPlenty—FlavoursofPlenty Booking.comResilienceandInnovation Award HobbitonMovieSet
INDIVIDUALAWARDS
SirJackNewmanOutstandingIndustryLeader Award FergusBrown
AucklandAirportTourismIndustryChampion Award DavidKennedy,International AntarcticCentre
AkiakiEmergingTourismLeaderAward Anne Newman,ChristchurchAdventurePark
A journey through modernity, tradition, and nature
South Korea K-culture
SOUTH KOREA CULTURE, CUISINE& CHARM ANCIENTTRADITIONSANDMODERNWORLDS SouthKorea,withitscaptivatingmixofoldtraditionsandnewwavepopularculture,isadestination that’srichinculture,experiences,architectureanddeliciouscuisine.There’snothingnottoloveinthis uniqueplaceandyourholidaywillbefulltothebrimwithexcitingsights,soundsandtastesaround everycorner,completewithfascinatingguideswhowillshowyouthebestofthecountry.
SEOUL,BUSAN&GYEONGJU YOURSELFGUIDEDHOLIDAYINCLUDES:
•ReturnEconomyflightstoSeoulfromAuckland
•6nightsaccommodation
•BreakfastDaily
•Privatecartransfers
•AllCityToursandexcursionswithlocalEnglish SpeakingGuides:
•InsadongAntiqueAlley
•ImjingakPark
•BusanTower
•JagalchiFishMarket
•DaereungwonTombs
•Monumententrancefeesandtaxes
•EconomyClassKTXticketsbetweenSeoul–Busan andGyeongju–Seoul
YOURADVENTUREHIGHLIGHTS:
✓ WatchthechangingoftheGuardceremonyat GyeongbokgungPalace-twicedailyexcept Tuesday-ashowwithcolour,movementandmusic
✓ VisittheDemilitarisedZone(DMZ)betweenNorth andSouthKorea–you’llgetaglimpseofthetension betweenNorthandSouthKoreainthisheavily guardedarea
✓ VisitGyeongju–referredtoastheMuseumwithout wallsasitishometomanyhistoricalartefacts
✓ VisitthefamousHaeundaeBeach–greatfor swimming,andaplacetoindulgeinsomefresh seafood
Gyeongju Busan
THESOULOF SOUTHKOREA WhetherexploringSeoul's ancientpalaces,divinginto K-culture,orhikingJeju Island'svolcanictrails,South Korea'sdramaticallydiverse experiencesarerewardingin wonderfullyuniqueways.
SouthKoreaisalandoffascinating contrasts,whereancienttraditionsmeet cutting-edgetechnology,andnatural landscapescollidewithbustlingurban life.Thiscountryofmorethan50million inhabitantsoffersanimmersiveexperience packedwithculturalgems,historic sites,stunningseasonallandscapes,and tantalisingfood.Fromthevibrantcapital cityofSeoultotheserenecountryside andcoastalregions,SouthKorea promisesanadventurelikenoother.
SEOUL:ACITYOF CONTRASTS Seoulisacitywherethepastand presentharmoniouslycoexist–it’sbeen thecentreofkingdomsforthousands ofyearsandinhabitedsinceprehistoric times.AsthecapitalofSouthKorea formorethansixcenturies,itoffersa uniqueblendofancienthistoryandultramoderndevelopment,withremnants ofitshistoryfoundthroughoutthe metropolis.Theoldcitywalls,builtto reflectthefourConfucianprinciples, stillmarkthebordersofancientSeoul. Ofparticularnotearethefiveroyal palaces,whichoncehousedJoseon kingsandqueens.Thesepalaces–
Gyeongbokgung,Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung,Deoksugung,and Gyeonghuigung–offeraglimpseinto thegrandeurofKorea'sroyalpast. However,Seoulisalsoacitythat pulseswiththeenergyofmodernity. Knownforitstechnologicalinnovation, Seoulishometofuturisticskyscrapers, neon-litstreets,andtechhubslike Gangnam,wherethelatestcand entertainmentconverge.Inthe bustlingdistrictsofMyeongdong andDongdaemun,K-beautyshops andtrendyfashionboutiquesoffer ashopper'sparadise,whilestreet vendorssellanarrayofmouth-watering snacksliketteokbokki(spicyricecakes), gimbap(Koreansushirolls),andhotteok (sweetfilledpancakes).Foratouch oftranquillityamidsttheurbanbuzz,
Seoulalsooffersplentyofgreenspaces. NamsanPark,locatedintheheartofthe city,providesstunningviewsofSeoul andishometotheiconicNSeoulTower. Theparkisperfectforleisurelywalks, cycling,oracablecarrideuptothe tower.TheHanRiver,whichrunsthrough thecity,isanotherpopularspotfor outdooractivities.Here,visitorscanrent bikes,takearivercruise,orrelaxwitha picnicwhileenjoyingthecityskyline. Foratrulyuniqueexperience,avisit totheDMZ(DemilitarisedZone)at theborderbetweenNorthandSouth Koreaisamust.Thisheavilyguarded areaoffersarareglimpseintothetense relationsbetweenthetwoKoreasand servesasareminderofthecountry's dividedhistory.
SPONSOREDCONTENT HouseofTravel’sultimateSouth Koreato-dolist Offbeatandvibrant,SouthKoreashould benextonyourlisttoexplore.Hereare somehottipsfromSindyJonesfrom HouseofTravelNewPlymouth.
1.TourthepalacesofSeoul SeoulisknownastheCityofPalaces, withfiveancientimperialsites. ThegrandestisGyeongbokgung (PalaceGreatlyBlessedbyHeaven), amassivecomplexthatfeelslikea smaller,quietersistertoBeijing’s ForbiddenCity.
2.EatyourweightinKoreanbarbecue Barbecueisthestandoutonany streetfoodtour,alongwithbanchan (sidedishes).Theproperwaytoeat Koreanbarbecueinvolveswrapping meatandbanchanintoaleafof lettuceorperilla.
3.LoungeonHaeundaeBeachinBusan GoforaswiminHaeundaeBeach’s turquoisewaters,thenfillupon streetfoodsatHaeundaeTraditional Market,justacrosstheroadfrom thebeach.Payavisitto14thcenturyBuddhisttempleHaedong Yonggungsaforsweepingviewsover thesea.
4.DiscoverquirkyInsadong ThetraditionalInsadongdistrict ofSeoulishometothequirkiest elementsofSouthKoreanculture. Withabout100galleriesinthearea, it’safantasticspotforlocalart,as wellasseriouslyfunkyclothingand deliciousstreetfood.
5.BrowsethemarketsofSeoul Seoulhasamplemodernmegamalls, butexploreitsbusymarket districts,too.VisitNamdaemunand Dongdaemun,bothnamedforthe gatesthatstandnearby.
6.WitnesstheJinjuLanternFestival Traveltothesoutherntownof JinjuinOctoberandyou’llseethe breathtakingsightofthousandsof lanternsfloatingdowntheNamgang River,aswellasanunmissablefestival offood,drink,musicandcelebration.
7.Takeinabaseballgame Baseballishandsdownthemost popularsportinSouthKorea–the atmospherefan'spassionatelysinging oftheirteam'schantsandsongsis somethingtobehold.You’llseemost peopleenjoyingtheexperiencewith coldbeersandfriedchicken.
8.Makelikeadumplingandsteam yourself
Almostexclusivelyusedbylocals, thesprawlingpublicbathhousesof Koreaareanexperience.Segregated bygender,these24-hourbathhouses havesaunas,lockerrooms, publicbathsandsometimeseven entertainment.
InspiredtovisitSouthKorea?See houseoftravel.co.nz,comeinstoreand talktoourspecialistconsultants,orscan theQRcodeforourgreatvaluedeals.
RoyalguardchangingceremonyatGyeongbokgungPalace.
VisitJejuIslandtowitnesshaenyeo(femaledivers).Thesewomen,someofwhomareintheir 80s,divewithoutbreathingapparatustocollectshellfishandseaweed.
KOREA'SRICHHISTORY ANDHERITAGE SouthKorea'srichculturalheritageis bestexperiencedbyimmersingyourself initstraditions,someofwhichhave remainedunchangedforcenturies. Oneofthemosticonicexperiencesfor visitorsiswearingahanbok,traditional clothingcharacterisedbyvibrantcolours andsimplelines,oftenwornduring specialoccasions.Rentingahanbok whileexploringSeoul'sroyalpalaces ortraditionalvillagesisapopular activity,allowingyoutofullyappreciate thegrandeurofKorea'shistorical architectureintheappropriategarb.
Foramorehands-oncultural experience,visitorscanlearntoplay traditionalKoreaninstrumentssuchas thezither-likegayageum,whichdates backtotheGayaConfederacyaroundthe 6thcentury.Therearealsoopportunities tostayinahanok,atraditionalwooden house,offeringaglimpseintohow KoreanslivedduringtheJoseonera. Thesehouses,withtheirdistinctive slopingroofsandwoodenbeams,provide atranquilretreatfrommodernlifeandare oftenlocatedinscenicvillagesorquiet cornersofthecity.Buddhisttemplestays offeranotheruniquewaytoengagewith Koreanculture.Fortravellersseeking mindfulnessandpeace,thesestaysallow youtoliveamongmonks,participate indailyritualssuchasyebul(Buddhist services),andengageinmeditation andteaceremonies.It'sachanceto disconnectfromthefast-pacedworld andreconnectwithyourselfinaserene, spiritualsetting.
Koreaisalsohometo16UNESCO WorldHeritageSites,eachofferinga
AyoungwomanwearingtraditionalhanbokclothingatGyeongbokgungPalace.
uniquewindowintothecountry'shistorical andculturalsignificance.Onesuchsiteis theHaeinsaTemple,wheretheTripitaka Koreana,theworld'smostcomplete collectionofBuddhistscriptures,is housed.AnotheristheBulguksaTemple inGyeongju,whichepitomisestheartistic beautyoftheSillaKingdom. FestivalsareavitalpartofKorea's culturalidentity,andattendingone duringyourvisitoffersanauthentic
glimpseintolocaltraditions.The AndongMaskDanceFestival,heldevery October,isalivelycelebrationofKorea's maskedfolkdancetradition.Featuring colourfulwoodenmasksandenergetic performances,thefestivalisacaptivating waytoexperienceKoreanfolklore.Other festivals,suchastheBoryeongMud FestivalandtheJeonjuInternational FilmFestival,offeramixofmodernand traditionalcelebrations.
Forthosewithanadventurousspirit, avisittoJejuIslandtowitnessthe haenyeo(femaledivers)isamust.These women,someofwhomareintheir80s, divewithoutbreathingapparatusto collectshellfishandseaweed,continuing acenturies-oldtradition.Visitorscan watchtheminactionorevenparticipate inadivingexperiencetogainadeeper understandingofthisremarkableaspect ofKoreanculture.
TheDemilitarisedZoneattheborderofNorthandSouthKorea.
BukchonHanokVillageinSeoul’sJongnoDistrict.
STUNNING SEASONS: A LAND OF CHANGING BEAUTY South Korea is a country defined by its distinct seasons, each offering a new and breathtaking view of the landscape Spring is one of the most anticipated times of the year, as the country bursts into bloom with cherry blossoms In parks, streets, and along riverbanks, the delicate pink and white blossoms create a stunning backdrop for leisurely strolls and outdoor picnics The Jinhae Cherry Blossom Festival is the country's most famous celebration of this season, drawing visitors from around the world to marvel at the beauty of the cherry trees in full bloom Summer in Korea is a time for festivals, beaches, and long evenings Although the weather can be hot and humid, it's also a time when the country comes alive with summer festivals such as the Boryeong Mud Festival, where travellers and locals alike engage in mud fights, obstacle courses, and even mud-based beauty treatments Korea's beaches, especially those on the southern coast and Jeju Island, provide a welcome respite from the summer heat Haeundae Beach in Busan is one of the most popular, offering clean sand, clear waters, and vibrant nightlife Autumn in Korea is simply magical The vibrant colours of the changing leaves transform the country's mountains and countryside into a breathtaking mosaic of reds, oranges, and yellows Nami Island, located just outside of Seoul, is one of the most popular spots to enjoy the autumn foliage, with its tree-lined paths providing an idyllic setting for a day trip Autumn is also the perfect time for hiking, as the weather is cool, and trails are less crowded The Seoraksan National Park is a hiker's paradise, offering stunning views of the autumn landscape and opportunities to explore Buddhist temples and hidden waterfalls along the way Winter brings a completely different side to South Korea, one that will appeal to snow sports enthusiasts The country hosted the Winter Olympics in 2018,
K-CULTURE: RIDING THE KOREAN WAVE One of the most captivating aspects of South Korea is its global cultural influence, known as Hallyu, or the Korean Wave From K-pop to K-drama, Korean culture has taken the world by storm, and New Zealand is no exception K-pop, the vibrant and energetic genre of music that has captivated fans worldwide, is more than just music – it's a cultural phenomenon Fans visiting Korea can tour the sites where their favourite music videos were filmed, see the entertainment agencies, and even attend concerts For those who want to take their fandom a step further, there are opportunities to learn some of the s signature dance moves from K-pop hits
K-beauty is another global trend that has put Korea on the map Known for i its innovative products and skincare routines, K-beauty is a must-explore for t travellers looking to indulge in some retail therapy From high-tech facial t treatments to customisable skincare products, visitors can experience the latest beauty trends in districts like Myeongdong, which is packed with
and its world-class ski resorts, such as those in Pyeongchang and Jeongseon, offer excellent facilities for skiing and snowboarding Winter festivals, such as the Hwacheon Sancheoneo Ice Festival, where visitors can try their hand at ice fishing, add to the charm of the season For a truly magical experience, visit Seoul's palaces in the evening, when they are illuminated against the snowcovered ground, creating a fairytale-like atmosphere.
beauty shops and spas Personal colour analyses provide customised skincare and makeup products tailored to an individual's skin tone and concerns
Popular K-beauty brands offer this service, enabling shoppers to find the perfect foundation shade or lip colour to suit their complexion. Brands like Laneige, Amorepacific, and Sulwhasoo, with their cutting-edge formulas and beauty tech, lead the charge in creating bespoke products For K-drama enthusiasts, visiting filming locations is a dream come true Many iconic dramas are filmed in scenic locations across Korea, allowing fans to connect with their favourite shows in a meaningful way For example, Nami Island, a popular spot for K-drama shoots, offers picturesque landscapes that have been featured in numerous dramas and films, including Winter Sonata, which cemented its status as a beloved tourist destination Similarly, Petite France, a charming French-inspired village, became a hotspot after being featured in the hit drama My Love from the Star For travellers, these locations are not only visually stunning but offer a chance to immerse themselves in the world of their favourite K-dramas
A ginkgo tree s vibrant foliage in autumn
The Jinhae Cherry Blossom Festival is South Korea’s most famous spring celebration
Seoul s Myeongdong shopping street is known for beauty and skincare products as well as popular Korean and international fashion brands
REGIONALHIGHLIGHTS ANDOUTDOOR ADVENTURES SouthKoreaisadiversecountry,with eachregionofferingitsownunique customs,culture,andculinaryspecialties. Beyondthefast-pacedcapitalof Seoul,thecountry'sruralandcoastal regionsareidealforthoseseeking outdooradventuresandadeeper connectionwithnature.Busan,Korea's second-largestcity,islocatedonthe southeasterncoast,offeringalaidbackatmosphereandcoastalcharm. Knownforitsbeautifulbeaches,such asHaeundaeandGwangalli,Busanisa fantasticdestinationforunwindingby thesea.Itscoastalproximityalsomeans itboastssomeofthefreshestseafood inthecountry.TheJagalchiFishMarket, Korea'slargestseafoodmarket,isa must-visitforfoodlovers,whereyoucan sampledelicacieslikeliveoctopusand hoe(rawfish).Busanalsohaseasyaccess toscenicmountainslikeGeumjeongsan, whichisperfectforhikingenthusiasts.
Gyeongju,locatedinthesoutheast, wasoncethecapitaloftheancient SillaKingdomandisoftenreferredto asa'museumwithoutwalls.'Thiscity isatreasuretroveofhistoricaland culturalartefacts,includingroyaltombs, pagodas,andancientrelics.Landmarks likeBulguksaTempleandSeokguram Grotto,bothUNESCOWorldHeritage Sites,drawvisitorseagertoexplore Korea'sancientpast.Thestunningblend ofculturalhistoryandnaturalbeauty, withGyeongjuNationalParknearby, makesthisregionperfectforhistory buffsandnatureloversalike.JejuIsland, offthesoutherncoastofKorea,isoften dubbedthe'HawaiiofKorea'forits volcaniclandscapesandlushscenery.
Aparadiseforoutdoorenthusiasts, Jejuisknownforitsdramaticcoastline, beautifulbeaches,andthetowering HallasanMountain,adormantvolcano thatoffersbreathtakinghikingtrails. Visitorscanalsowitnesstheisland's famedhaenyeodivers,femalefree diverswhohaveharvestedseafood forcenturies.Jeju'sserenewaterfalls, volcaniccraters,andscenicviewsmake itanidealdestinationfornaturelovers seekingauniqueislandexperience.
Jeonju,inthesouthwesternregionof thecountry,isfamousforitstraditional hanokvillage.Thishistoricalcityisa must-visitforthoselookingtoexperience Korea'sarchitecturalheritage.The villageishometohundredsofhanok houseswithsignaturecurvedroofsand woodenstructures,offeringaglimpse intoKorea'spast.Visitorscanstayina hanok,participateinteaceremonies, andexploreJeonju'svibrantfoodscene. Thecityisparticularlyrenownedfor itsbibimbap,amixedricedishwith vegetables,meat,andspicysauce,which originatedhere.
Jeju’sHallasanMountainatdawn.
HallasanMountainisadormantvolcanothatoffersbreathtakinghikingtrails.
Koreantabled'hôteisaKorean-stylefull-coursemeal.
KOREANCUISINE:A FEASTFORTHESENSES Koreancuisineisasdiverseand flavourfulasthecountryitself.From thebustlingstreetfoodmarketstothe refinedtemplecuisine,Koreaoffersa gastronomicadventureforeverytype oftraveller.Oneofthebestplacesto sampleKoreanstreetfoodisGwangjang MarketinSeoul,whichhasbeenserving updeliciousbitesformorethan70years. Here,youcantrythosetraditionaldishes bindaetteok(mungbeanpancakes), mayakgimbap(addictivericerolls), andtteokbokki.Foramoreimmersive experience,visitorscanparticipateina cookingclasstolearnhowtomakethese dishesfromscratch.Koreantemplefood, avegancuisinedevelopedbyBuddhist monksoverthepast1700years,offers auniquefoodexperience.Usingonly plant-basedingredients,templefood isknownforitssimplicityandpurity. Visitorscantakepartintemplefood
workshops,wherethey'lllearnhowto preparedishessuchaslotusrootstew andsoybeansoup,whilealsogaining insightintothespiritualaspectsofthis cuisine.
NovisittoKoreawouldbecomplete withoutsamplingkimchi,thecountry's mostfamousdish.Thisfermented cabbagedish,seasonedwithchilli, garlic,andginger,isservedwithalmost everymeal.Forthoselookingtodive deeperintoKorea'sculinarytraditions, theKimchiMuseuminSeouloffers afascinatinglookatthehistoryand culturesurroundingthisbeloveddish. YoucanalsoattendoneofKorea'smany kimchifestivals,whereyoucanlearn howtomakethisiconicfoodandeven takesomehomeasasouvenir.Korean beveragesarealsoworthexploring,from therefreshingsojutothemilkymakgeolli (ricewine).Soju,oftenconsidered Korea'snationalspirit,istraditionally consumedinsocialsettings,andthere areparticularcustomssurroundingits
Famouskimchi,fermentedcabbageseasonedwithchilli,garlic,and ginger,isservedwithalmosteverymeal.
OneofthebestplacestosampleKoreanstreetfoodisGwangjang MarketinSeoul.
enjoyment.Forinstance,it'sconsidered politetopourdrinksforothersrather thanyourself,andwhenreceivingadrink, youshouldholdyourglasswithboth hands–especiallyifsomeoneolderis pouring.Toastingwithaloud"geonbae" isamustand,afterthefirstshot,it's customarytoturnyourheadawayfrom elderswhendrinking.
Makgeolli,inparticular,hasbecome apopulardrinkinrecentyears,with trendymakgeollibarspoppingupin citiesacrossKorea.Traditionallyenjoyed byfarmers,thisunfilteredricewine hasathick,slightlyfizzytextureand asubtlysweetflavour.Nowadays,it's embracedbyawideraudience,with barsofferinguniqueflavouredvariations suchaschestnut,yuja(Koreancitrus), andpomegranate.Travellerscanvisit traditionalbreweriestolearnhowthese drinksaremadeandenjoytastingsof differentvarieties,experiencingboth thehistoryandmoderntakesonthese belovedbeverages.Thecommunal
natureofdrinkingmakgeolli,often servedinalargebowlandshared amongstfriends,reflectsKorea's deep-rootedculturalemphasison togethernessandhospitality.South Koreaoffersawealthofexperiences foreverytypeoftraveller.Whether you'reinterestedinexploringthevibrant streetsofSeoul,immersingyourselfin thecountry'srichhistory,marvelling atitsnaturalbeauty,orindulginginits deliciouscuisine,SouthKoreapromises anunforgettablejourney.
ReadytodiscoveryoursoulinSouth Korea?ContactHouseofTravel’s specialistconsultantstocreateyour veryownSouthKoreanadventure.Visit houseoftravel.co.nzorcall0800713715.
