NZ Herald - Travel 19th September 2023

travel

SILKROAD

revisited

Whynow’sthetimetoplanatriptoUzbekistan

Wh’thtitltitUbkit

Todaymarksthe130th anniversaryofsuffrageinNew Zealandsowe’reprofilingsome ofthemostremarkableKiwi womenwhohaveblazedatrailin adventuringandexploring.From aviatrixJeanBatten,torecordbreakingsailorLauraDekker, thesewomenforgedapath aroundtheworldandearneda placeinhistory.

Thestoryiswrittenby Herald Travel’sSarahPollok,whois herselfaremarkableKiwiwoman. OnassignmentinMorocco,Sarah wasatarooftopbarinMarrakesh onSeptember8whenthedeadly 6.8earthquakestruck,claiming morethan2100lives.Mercifully Sarahwasunharmedandmade ithomelastWednesday.Inthe midstofthedisaster,wheremost ofuswouldbecoweringina corner,Sarahtooktimetoreport fromthescene.Youcanreadher accountofthequake,orlistento apodcastinwhichshetalksabout it,at nzherald.co.nz

ShewasonatripwithIntrepid Travel,whowerebrilliant,offering immediateassistanceandtaking careoflogisticstoensurethe entiregroupweresafeand supported.

Thecompanyhasalsomade anongoingcommitmentto Morocco’srecovery,launchinga fundraisingappealthroughThe IntrepidFoundation.Moneyraised willgotopartnerorganisations HighAtlasFoundationand EducationForAll,whohave peopleonthegroundworkingin thecommunitiesaffected.Even morecommendable,Intrepid willmatchalldonationsupto AU$100,000.

Ifyou’reinaposition tohelp,pleasedonateat theintrepidfoundation.org

CONTACTS

TravelEditor: StephanieHolmes

DeputyEditors: AnnaSarjeant

TravelWriters: ThomasBywater, SarahPollok,MadeleineCrutchley

Designers: CourtneyWhitaker, RobCox

FeaturesProductionEditor: IsobelMarriner

Sub-editors: JillStanford, MaureenMarriner,SueBaxalle

Cover: Uzbekistan.

Photo/GettyImages

travel@nzherald.co.nz nzherald.co.nz/travel Facebook.com/nzhtravel Instagram.com/nzhtravel ListentoourpodcastTrip NotesatiHeartRadio

Advertising: LiezlHipkins-Stear liezl.hipkins-stear@nzme.co.nz

CONTENTS

WHEREWE WERE...

Columnist JessicaWynneLockhart, picturedhereintheMarlborough Sounds,thisweeklooksatthe world’sbestdestinationstotravel solo.Andyes,NewZealandisonthe list.Readherstoryon p6

» Wherehaveyoubeen exploringlately?Sendusyour photosandabriefcaptionto travel@nzherald.co.nzandwe’ll publishsomeofourfavourites.

DISCOVERUZBEKISTAN

TheSilkRoadjewelisfastbecoming atouristhotspot

STAYINGSERENISSIMA

ScratchbelowVenice’ssurfacetofind morethangondolasandwaterways

FRENCHCONNECTIONS

HowtotravelFrancebyrail

TRAVELTRAILBLAZERS

TheKiwiwomenwhoforgedtheway inworldexploration

WALKINGWAIHEKE

Coastalviewsandlonglunches aretheperfectcombinationforthis upcomingfestival

FLAVOURSOFSINGAPORE

Sixmust-tryfoodieexperiencesin

ScanthisQRcodewith yourmobilephone toviewaselection of Getaway videos featuringsomeofour favouritedestinations nzherald.co.nz/ topic/getaway

SINGAPORE

1

Singaporeisknownasanisland nation,butmostpeopledon’t knowitslandareaalsoincludes 64otherislands.Bestknownis Sentosa,butthere’salsoPulauUbin, StJohn’sIslandandtheSisters’ Islands,allwiththeirownunique offeringstotourists.

Formore onSingapore, see p28

2About700squarekilometres ofSingapore’slandareais coveredwithlushgreenery, withnumerousparksaswellas thehistoricSingaporeBotanic Gardens,whichweredesignated aUnescoWorldHeritageSite in2015.Thereyou’llfindthe NationalOrchidGarden,which housesthousandsoforchid species.

the hi Ga a in Na ho sp Ch

3

ChangiAirportishometothe world’stallestindoorwaterfall, theRainVortexwhichis40m tallandsurroundedbyanindoor rainforestgarden.You’llfinditat Jewelattheairport’sTerminal1.

stephanie.holmes@nzherald.c

Photo/Unsplash

ALIFEINTRAVEL

StephWyborn

TheKiwientrepreneursharesher holidaytipsandmemories

Whatareyourstrongestmemoriesfromthefirst overseastripyouevertook?

Iwas18,withmyboyfriend.Excitedandnaive,webookeda two-weekroadtripalongtheCaliforniancoast.Igota(too) cheapdealforaccommodationinLA,rightbesideDisneyland. Wearrivedanditstank,withfilthy,stainedcarpet.Withinfive minutes,I’dbookedthe(then)DisneylandHotel—morethan eighttimestheprice,butwehadthetimeofourlives.Looking back,thatsetaprecedent:aloveofamazingexperiencesand uniquehotels.Unlessthetrip’saboutexploring,thenlocation andcleanlinessdothetrick.

Whatwasastandardfamilyholidaylikewhen growingup?

OurfamilyholidayswereonlytakenoverChristmas,staying onMum’sfamilyfarminTaranaki.Onthelocalbeachprying musselsofftherocks,helpinginthemilkingandshearing sheds,climbingmountains,hangingoutwhilemyunclesand auntiesroundedupthesheep...It’sthesmellsIremember, freshlybakedscones,stinkywool,andcrunchycowpats.

exploringtheworld!

Whatisthegreatesttripyouhave everbeenon?

Sleepingunderthestars,onasafariin SouthAfrica.Asasurprise,thecamphostsled usonquadbikesacrossthebarrensaltplains.Then,atdusk, wereachedabeautifuldinnertable,wherehotcoalsweredug intothegroundtokeepuswarm.Thenweslept—amidthe stillness,thestars,theplummetingtemperature—andkept toastywithbeanies,hotwaterbottles,andashotofliquor. Andtheworst?

wholeheartedly,IcansayIloveWhistler,Tahiti,and theislandsoffHawaii.OnedestinationI’dlovetogois FormenteraIslandoffIbiza.Thebeachesandwaterare supposedtobeoutofthisworld,sothat’sonmylist. Whatwasyourmostmemorablesunrise/sunset? Asunsetviewedfrommyhome,righthereinMatakana.Itwas magnificentandbecauseI’dneverseenonelikeitbeforehere, itblewmeaway.

Whatisthefirstthingyoudowhenyougethomefroma longtrip?

Iwasstillyoungandnaive.Itookacruisearoundthe Caribbeanwithmyyoungson,afriend...and3000close neighbours.Thefoodandpeopleenmasseputmeoff buffetsforever.

Whatisyourapproachtopackingforabigtrip?

Iusedtobeashocker,alwaystoomuchstuff,especiallyshoes. NowI’mwaymoreorganised,Iusepackingcubesandgroup outfitsandshoes.And,ofcourse,Ialwaystakemyportable HyoumankindGoPillow.Thereisnothingworsethanabad

Usemyownbathroom—myownshowerisbliss.Then straightintothepantryforahandfulofpotatochips,anda snugglewithmycat,Ruby.

Whatdoyoumissmostabouthomewhenyoutravel? Idooftenthinkabouthoweasyitistoparkdirectlyoutside ashopinNZ...andImissmychildren.ButItrytojustlove whereIam,knowingit’llbealloverbeforeIknowit.Travel alwaysinspiresnewideas,whetherfromarchitecture,interior design,quirkyproducts,food.Mymindgoeswild.Iwantto bringthemallhome,thenIremindmyselfto“settlepetal”!

StephWyborn,left, wouldlovetovisit Formentera,anisland closetoIbizainSpain’s BalearicIslands. Photos/Supplied;123RF

HOPTOIT:CRUISETHEPACIFICISLANDS

DiscoverthetreasuresofthePacificIslandswithaseven-nightcruiseon boardPacificExplorer.Immerseyourselfinlocalculture,swiminwarm, tropicalwatersandlazeonsandybeaches.Pricedfrom$994pp,twin-share foraninteriorcabin/room,yourmainmeals,accommodationandplentyof activitiesareincludedinyourfare.Thisround-tripfromBrisbanewilltakeyou toNoumea,Lifou,andPortVila,Vanuatu.Thesailingisontheafternoonof August3nextyear.FlightstoBrisbanefromNewZealandareadditional. Contact:P&OCruisesAustralia,0800780716or pocruises.co.nz/cruises/pacific-island-hopper/i436

2

SHOWUSMORE,SINGAPORE!

Afive-nightstayinSingapore’sOrchardRendezvousHotel,with AirNewZealandreturnfarestogetyouthere,ispricedfrom $2889pp,twin-share,fortravelduringsetperiodsinFebruaryand Marchnextyear.BookbySeptember22.Includedinthispackage aredailybreakfasts,aSingaporeCitytourandEZ-Linktransport card,freeentryforonepersontotheRiverWondersattraction

3 4 5

SCOTLAND’SSECRETGEMS

JoinasmallgroupoftravellersforaBack-RoadstourthroughScotland whichputsyourightintheheartofEdinburgh,theCairngorms Region,Inverness,Culloden,LochNess,Plockton,theIsleofSkyeand IsleofMull.Pricedfrom$7189pp,thetourdepartsfrequentlyfrom Aprilonwardsnextyearbut,atthisprice,thedeparturedatesare betweenJuly23andAugust22.BookbySeptember30.You’llgetnine nights’accommodationwithdailybreakfasts,fourdinnersandone lunch.Premiummini-coachisyourtransport.

Contact:helloworld,0800303132or helloworld.co.nz/deal/20866/a-scottish-journey

ONTHEICE WITHSIRJOHNKEY

CruisewithVivaExpeditionsandexperience themagicofthewildest,mostisolatedcontinent ontheplanettravellingalongsidespecialguestformer PrimeMinisterSirJohnKey,whowillbemakinghisthirdtrip toAntarcticathisNovember.Bookyourplaceonthis13-day, luxuriousVIPAntarcticaExpeditionbytheendofthismonthand yourreturninternationalflightswillbecomplimentary.Thecruise departsfromBuenosAiresonNovember23.Thelandandcruiseprice

There’smoretoseeonline!

20DAYMAGICALSPAIN, PORTUGAL&MOROCCO

IndulgeallyoursenseswithSpainandPortugal’s charmandenergy,andsailfromEuropeto AfricatodiscovermysteriousMorocco.Maze-like medinas,imperialcitiesandexoticdelightsawait. •Smallgroupexperience,nomorethan24guests •19nightsincomfortable,4-starhotels •Fullyescortedbyexpert,English-speakingguide •Breakfastdaily,plus8dinners

•Internalflightanddedicated,comfortabletransport TRAVELFROMFEB2024TOOCT2025

ALSOAVAILABLE:13DAYAUTHENTICSPAIN&PORTUGALPREMIUMSMALLGROUPTOUR EXPERIENCETHEUNFORGETTABLEIBERIANPENINSULAINSTYLE,WITHASMALLGROUPOFJUST24TRAVELLERS

5 ofthebestforsolos

Whenitcomestotravelling alone—whetherit’sforyour firstor10thtime—multidaygrouptoursandcruises aren’ttheonlyoption,writes JessicaWynneLockhart

Ifyou’retheindependentsortwho prefersdoingthingstoyourownschedule,we’veroundedupfiveofthebest destinationsforsolotravellers.

Croatia:Bestoveralldestinationfor solotravellers

Earlierthisyear,luggagestorageappBounce compiledalistofthebest,safestandmost affordablecountriestovisitwhentravelling solo.Eachdestinationwasanalysedbasedon thenumberofattractions;qualityof restaurants;costsoftransit,hotelsandfood; thesafetyandcrimeindex;andeventhe weather.Withallthesefactorstakeninto consideration,theAdriaticcountryofCroatia toppedthelistasthebestoveralldestination forsolotravellers.

Wecouldn’tagreemore.Whereaspeople tendtoassociateCroatiawith GameofThrones tourism(thewalledcityofDubrovnikfamously wasthestand-inforthefictionalcityofKing’s Landing),sailingholidays(theworld’sfirst floatingfestival,YachtWeek,takesplacehere) orraves,thisaffordabledestinationwillappeal tovirtuallyanyonewithaninterestinhistory orfood.ManylocalsrunAirbnbs,makingit easytofindsafe,comfortableaccommodation whereyourhostswillbealltoowillingtoshare fresh-pressedoliveoilandamealoffuzi,alocal typeoftube-likepasta.

Japan:Thesafestbetforsafety-conscious solotravellers

Ifsafetyisyourtopconcern,bookaticketto theLandoftheRisingSun,whichtookthetop spotforsafetyonBounce’slist.Notonlyare Japan’scrimeratessignificantlylowerthan thoseinWesterncountries(includingour own),catcallsandstreetharassmentarerelativelyuncommon,withwomen-onlyspasand subwaycarriagesaddinganotherlevelof comfort.

Ifyou’reafirst-timesolotraveller,it’spossibletobaseyourselfinalargercitylikeTokyo, thenmixindaytripsoranovernighttripor twousingthewell-establishedrailnetworks. Andthanksinparttobusinesstravelculture, youlikelywon’tfeelawkwardeatingoutalone. Solodinersareacommonsight.

Singapore:Forsolotravellerswhowanta beachholidayandacityholiday,too Fortoolong,Singaporehasbeenconsidered astopoveratbest.It’stheplaceyourestfor adayortwobeforemakingyourwayonwards toEuropeorwarmershores.ButSingapore isn’tjustacity—it’sanarchipelagowith60 outlyingislands,deservingofmorethana weekend.

Easytogetaround,inSingaporeit’s possibletohaveacosmopolitancity breakandaflop-and-dropbeachholiday,allinthesameweek.Spendyour firstfewdayswanderingthroughthe

Top,thePileGatein Dubrovnikisfamousforits fortifications,which appearedinGameof Thrones;above,inthelast 24months,interestin travellingsoloto Switzerland,especially Zurich,surgedbynearly 250percent. Photos/Unsplash;123rf

cityandhittingupattractionslikeGardensby theBay,thenbookafewnightsatSentosa beachresort.Andifyougetboredofallthe cocktailsandsun,thethrillsofthecityareonly a15-minuteferryrideaway.

NewZealand:Bestforfirst-timesolo travellers

Itmightseemlikeacop-outtoincludeAotearoa onthislistbuthearusout—countlessexperts saythatifyou’rewaryoftravellingsolofor thefirsttime,yourbestbetistoexploreyour owncountryfirst.

“Evenwomenwhoarefromcountriestraditionallyseenaslesssafeforwomentotravel solo[suchasIndiaandEgypt]stillrecommend theirowncountrytofellowcitizens,”writes MarPages,co-founderofSoloFemale Travelers,onthetravelgroup’ssite.She explainsthatexploringyourowncountryeliminatessafetyconcernsandfrustrationsthat canresultfromoperatinginanothercurrency, languageorculture.

Butthetruthis,evensolotravellerswho aren’tKiwisrateourcountry.Basedonits safety,sceneryandfunfactor,NewZealand cameinnumberfouronthelistofthebest countriestotravelalone,accordingtotheUS News’surveyofmorethan17,000travellers fromacrosstheglobe.

Switzerland:Mostpopularwithsolo travellersfor2024

IfyoudigintotheGoogledata,you’llfindthat Switzerland—andspecificallythecityof Zurich—takesthecakeasthespotpeopleare mostsolo-curiousabout.Inthelast24months alone,interesthasrisennearly250percent. So,what’stheappeal?Itcouldbethejawdroppingscenery,theincrediblefoodorthe diversityofadventurestobehad.Itcouldbe thefocuson“Swisstainability.”Itcouldbethat publictransitmakesiteasytotravelthe breadthandthewidthofcountrybyrail,or thatEnglishiswidelyspoken.Itcouldalsobe thatSwitzerlandalsoregularlyranksamongst thesafestcountriesintheworldtotravel.

ButwethinkitboilsdowntothelegendarySwisshospitality.Thecountry’s cultureofwelcomingvisitors permeateseveryaspectoflife,making everysolotravellerfeellikeaguest ofhonour.Plus,youwon’thaveto worryaboutsharingyourchocolate.

Enjoytheperfectblendofeleganceandease–wherelittletouchesarebold,gesturesaregrandandtheviewsevengrander. Ourboutique-hotel-inspiredPanoramaSuitesSM featuretheindustry’sonlyOpen-AirBalconiesSM withthewidest-opening windowsinrivercruisinganddecadentComfortCollectionbedsSM thatfacetheever-changingscenery.

Award-winningaccommodations,exceptionalshoreexcursions,flexiblediningoptionsandauniquerelaxedluxury atmosphere.It’stheAvalondifferenceanddoesn’tgetmuchbetterthanthat!

THEONLYWAYTORIVERCRUISE

UNRESTRICTEDOPENAIRBALCONY BEDSTHATFACETHEVIEW

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• EnjoyadeliciousCheeseTastingonboardyourship

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• Delectablemealsonboardincl.regionalbeer&wine

• ChoiceofdailyClassic,Active&Discoveryexcursions

80%OFOURCABINSARESUITES

CRUISEINANAWARD-WINNING PANORAMASUITEFROM $6,775* perperson(twinshare,departing09Apr2024,catA)

CHALON-SUR-SAÔNE

Beaujolais Region

MÂCON FRANCE 7

FormoreinformationvisitAvalonWaterways.co.nz, call0800000883orseeyourtravelagent *Pricescorrectasof12/09/23.Pricesareperperson,twinshareandincludeapplicablesavings.Saveupto$3,000percouplevalidto11Nov23.

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DISCOVER UZBEKISTAN

Awayfromisolationism,theSilkRoadjewelisfastbecomingatourismhotspot,writes JamesDraven

Asmooth-facedborderofficeratthe glossySamarkandInternational airportwasscrutinisingmypassport.Standinginhisbooth,wearinganoversizeduniform,he inspectedmyphotographand askedwhereIwasstaying.Hehadalready checkedallofits60-plusstampsandvisas,and studiedeachofthesecurityholograms,foilinlays andperforations;andhewasnowholdingitup toalamp,examiningthewatermarksonevery page—muchtothequiet,shufflingirritation ofthelonglineofUzbekcitizensbehindme. Finally,hewavedmethrough.

Iofferedanotherpassengeraweaksmileas Ipassedher.Aftersimilarscrutiny,herpassport hadbeenrejecteduntilitcouldbeseenbyasenior official.Butitwasn’tSoviet-stylebureaucracy slowingthingsdown—itwasnaivety.The entirelyredevelopedairportopenedonlyin March2022,andtheyoungborderofficerhadno ideaifherdocumentwasgenuine,havingnever seenaNorwegianpassportbefore.

Hometosomeofthefinestexamplesof14thto20th-centuryCentralAsianarchitecture, Samarkandisoneoftheoldestcontinuously inhabitedcitiesinUzbekistanandamongthe mostancientinCentralAsia,datingbackto 1500BC.Renownedforitscraftproduction,itwas oneofthemostimportantstopsonthelegendary SilkRoad,a640kmjumbleoftraderoutesthat crossedEurasiafromasearlyasthe2ndcentury —runningfromthefareastofpresent-dayChina towesternTurkey—alongwhichsilks,spices

andjadeweretransported.Attractingmerchants fromfarandwide,Samarkandisrecognisedby Unescoashavingbeenacrossroadsofworld culturesformorethantwomillennia.

Andthencamethelate19thcentury.The Sovietsinvaded—controllingthecountryuntil 1991—afterwhichUzbekistanspentseveral decadesundertheisolationistruleofPresident IslamKarimov,notoriousforhumanrights abusesandenforcingslavelabourinthe country’subiquitouscottonfields.

Althoughwidelyregardedasthejewelofthe SilkRoad,ashiningbeacononinnumerablewish

Main:In2020,TheUN namedUzbekistanthe fourth-fastest-growing countryfortourism;above, itwasoneofthemost importantstopsonthe legendarySilkRoad. Photos/GettyImages

lists,duringthistimeUzbekistanand Samarkandbecamerelativestrangerstovisitors fromfar-flunglands.Tolocals,Norwaymightas wellhavebeenNeptune.

ButwhenKarimovdiedin2016,allthat changed.Internationalisolationhadresultedin youthunemploymentandacollapsingeconomy, soKarimov’ssuccessor,ShavkatMirziyoyev, madeswiftjudicialreformsandopenedupthe countrytotourismandforeigninvestment.By 2020thenumberofcountriesgrantedvisa-free traveltoUzbekistanhadjumpedfromnineto90. Accommodationoptionsalmostdoubled,andthe numberoftouroperatorsmorethantripled. Foreignvisitornumbersincreasedfromtwoto 6.7millionasthecountryfocusedonattracting touristsfromfartherafield,andinearly2020, Uzbekistanwasnamedthefourth-fastestgrowingcountryfortourismbytheUnited NationsWorldTourismOrganisation.

Unsurprisingly,inacitylongdefinedbythe ironruleofdictators—capturedbyAlexander theGreatin329BC,ravagedbyGenghisKhan inthe13thcentury,capitalofTamerlane’sEmpirethroughoutthe14th—thisthunderoussurge intomodernityislargelywelcomedby Samarkand’scitizens,andbyagovernmentlookingtotheGulf,andtheglitteringEmirates,for inspiration.Butitisablueprintthathasn’t alwaystreatedthecultureandtraditionsof historicplaceswithkindness—justlookat Dubai’sOldTown,andthelikesofChinese

CentralAsia »

Lijiang,whichnowfeelmoreliketributebands thantherealdeal,forcedtocompetewiththe likesofDubai’sMadinatJumeirah,a“modern reimagining”ofatraditionalArabvillage.

Thereare,atleast,attemptstoweavethepast intothepresentinUzbekistan.Samarkand’s airportterminalbuildingitselfisanodtoUlugh Beg,the15th-centuryastronomerwhoremains thecity’smostcelebratedcitizen,withthedesign intendedtoresembleanopenbook(hiscosmologicaltome,the Zij-iGurgani),alllamp-gilded pagesfanningawayfromthecentralspineofthe entrancehall,therooftwinklingwithastar-map ofspotlightconstellations.

Thisimpetustocarrypastintopresentis evident,too,inthecountry’snewest—andmost daring—forayintothefuture,thenearbySilk RoadSamarkanddevelopment:ahuge,futuristic tourismcomplexthatbecamethelargestin CentralAsiawhenitopenedinAugust2022.With eightluxuryhotels(1200rooms,increasingthe city’sofferingbyabout50percent),32kmof pavement,andacongresshallwiththecapacity tohold3000people,this“imageofthenew Samarkand”costmorethanNZ$954millionto buildandwas,accordingtohotelmanagement, thebrainchildofPresidentMirziyoyev.Thereis evenafour-starproperty,namedinhonourof thecountry’sfavouriteastronomer—theLia! byMinyounStarsofUlugbek.

Nevertheless,standingonthe20thfloorofthe neighbouringSamarkandRegencyhotel,the sprawlingestatelaidoutbelowme,itwashard nottofeelthatthisisthekindofresortanextraterrestrialmightcreate—aseeminglyinfinite liminalspace,thegroundsstretchingonendlessly,illuminatedatnightbyagalaxyoffairy lightsspiralledaroundthousandsoffreshly plantedsaplings.

Themammothresort’scentrepieceisthe11ha EternalCity:abrand-newtourismhubdesigned tomimicamedievalSilkRoadtown,mirroring theoldcity’smosaics,goldenarabesquesand ribbed,cobaltdomes.Itsshopsandrestaurants bustledwithcuriouslocals,despitebeingjust15 minutesfromthearchitecturalwondersof ancientSamarkand,amongthemthemajolicacladmadrasasofRegistanSquare;thebrilliant-

bluetilesthatadorntheavenueof14th-century mausoleumsatShah-i-Zinda;thejadetombof Tamerlane;andUlughBeg’simpressive15thcenturyobservatory.Butthat,apparently,is kindofthepoint.

“TheEternalCityisevenbetterthanMadinat Jumeirah,”saysRolandObermeier,general manageroftheSamarkandRegencyhotel.

“EverybodygoestoRegistanSquare,tothese architecturalmonuments—butwehaveour own,sopeoplecanstayintheresortandnot necessarilygototheOldCity.”Hepauses, adding:“PeoplegotoParisjustforDisneyland.”

TheDisneyficationofSamarkandisan ongoingdebate,onethatislikelytorageonfor sometime.Clearly,touristswithculturein mindarenotthefocusoftheseefforts—the targetmarketsarebusinesstravellers,confer-

Checklist UZBEKISTAN

GETTINGTHERE

ThebestroutefromNew ZealandistoflyAuckland orChristchurchtoDubai withEmirates,thentakea connectingflightto Samarkandviathecapital TashkentwithFlyDubaior AirArabia.Talktoyour travelagentforoptions.

DETAILS uzbekistan.travel/en

encestays,andmedicaltourists(Obermeier believesthat,justasIstanbulistheglobalcapital ofhairtransplantsand“Turkeyteeth”— veneersandimplants—soSamarkandmight becomethebeatingheartofcardiology holidays).

Sowheredoestheculture-hungrytouristfit intoUzbekistan’sfuture?

Itiscertainlytruethatthepushformodernity hasmadevisitingthecountryeasierandmore comfortablethaneverbefore.Equally,aslong asitsdreamsofglobalisationremainonlyhalf realised,theUzbekistanofyesterdaycancontinuetoexistintandem.

...itwashardnottofeelthatthisis thekindofresortanextraterrestrialmightcreate—a seeminglyinfiniteliminalspace, thegroundsstretchingon endlessly,illuminatedatnightbya galaxyoffairylightsspiralled aroundthousandsoffreshly plantedsaplings.

Venturebeyondthegoldenbathroomsand smoked-glassexteriorsofthemega-complexand jumpintooneoftheresort’sfleetofcars(Chinese,all-electrichunksofchromethatresemble thelovechildofaRolls-RoyceandaRange Rover)andyoucanbeinthefoothillsoftheFann Mountainswithinminutes,whereallideasof Middle-Easternostentationareforgotten. Friendlypotterypedlarsslurpteasurrounded byteeteringtowersofchinacups;roadsidechefs giveimpromptucookerylessonsastheyroast chickensinhomemadeclaytandoorovens;and gold-toothedwomencrackgleaminggrinswhile sellingsticksofcrystallisedsugar.Perhapsnow —whilemoderncomfortsbeckon,beforea faceliftmakesthisSilkRoadstapleunrecognisable—istrulyUzbekistan’smomenttoshine. —TelegraphGroupLtd

Uzbekistanoffersvisa-freetravelto morethan90countries;below,the 28-acreEternalCityisabrandnew tourismhubinSamarkand, designedtomimicamedievalSilk Roadtown. Photos/GettyImages

WOMENINSARIS,INDIA

85DAYS.19COUNTRIES.ONEEPICJOURNEY.

Embarkonanepic85-dayjourneyfromSydneytoBarcelonathatoffersanextraordinarilydiversecultural experienceasyouexplorethehistory,traditionsandlandscapesof19uniquecountries.Explorethe underwaterlifeoftheGreatBarrierReef.EncountertherareKomododragoninitsnaturalhabitat.Absorb theculturaldiversityofSingapore.SailacrosstheBayofBengalandlearnthesecretsofSriLankancuisine withalocalchef.ViewthearchitecturaltreasuresofMumbai.TraversetheengineeringmarveloftheSuez CanalandstandbeforeEgypt’sGreatPyramidsofGiza.ExplorethebestoftheMediterraneanincluding theglamorousFrenchRiviera,theDalmatianCoastandItaly’srusticshores.

SydneytoBarcelona

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STAYING

SERENISSIMA

You’llnevertireofVenice’shotspotsbutscratchbelowthesurfaceandyou’ll findmuchmorethangondolasandwaterways,writes AnneHanley

Therearedayswhenvisitorstothis exquisitejewelboxofacityoutnumberlocalstwo-to-one,and whengettingfromthestationto StMark’sSquareisabattle.But despitethis,Veniceneverlosesits capacitytoenchant:steppingoutofthestation tobegreetedbyaglitteringcanalwiththedome ofSanSimeonPiccolobeyondremainsheartstopping,whetheryou’redoingitforthefirst timeorthe100th.

Evenatpeakvisitorperiods,theworst excessescanbeavoidedandyou’renevermore thanabridgeawayfromsecludedVenicewith itsquietcampi(squares),churchesconcealing luminousMadonnas,handsomeGothicpalazzi andbustlingneighbourhoodhangouts.

Becausethere’smoretoVenicethanpeerless artisticrichesfromcenturiespast:it’salsoahive ofcontemporaryactivity.Beyondthealternating ArtandArchitectureBiennales,whichshowcase allthat’scuttingedgeinternationally, thecity’sdwindlingpopulation workshardtokeepcontemporaryVenicecreative,productiveandveryvibrant.

DAYONE

Morning

StartthedayinDa Bonifacio,atinycafewith alovelycrazy-pavedmosaic floor,hiddenawaybehind

theDoge’sPalace(Castello4237,Calledegli Albanesi;closedThurs).Thecoffee’sgood—ask fortheveryVenetianmacchiatoneifyoulike theideaofacappuccinowithlessmilk— andit’sdifficulttoresistcakeslikethe pastaconlemandorle(almondslice).

Thewondrous,mosaic-studdedinteriorofVenice’smotherchurch,St Mark’sBasilica,doesn’topentovisitors until9.30ambutanyoneiswelcometo attendmorningmass.Takeyourpick betweenthe8amand10amslots.The advantageofthelatter,apartfromtheliein,isthatit’ssometimesasungLaudsmass, andthere’snothinglikeplainsongtobringout themagicofStMark’s.Afterwards,visitthe MuseumofStMark’s,whichaffordsspectacular viewsoverthepiazza;entryis ¤7.

Afternoon

IfyouarelookingforaproperlyVenetianlunch experience,withtraditionaldishessuch asbigoliinsalsa(thickspaghettiin anchovyandonionsauce)orsardineinsaor(sweetandsour sardines),AlPortegowilldeliver.Thereareonlyahandfuloftables—sobook— plusspacetoperchatthe barandgrazeonawide selectionofciccheti(bar snacks),whichiswhat localsdo.

Takeastrollthroughthe

Left:Themosaic-studded interiorofStMark’sBasilica welcomeseveryonefor morningmass;above,San GiorgioMaggioreIsland. Photos/Supplied;Unsplash

Castellodistrict,leavingthetouristhordesbehind,untilyoureachtheScuoladiSanGiorgio degliSchiavoni.AftertheopulenceofStMark’s, indulgeinoneofthecity’smostcharmingly intimateculturaldraws:anearly16th-century cycleofpaintingsbylocalartistVittore Carpaccionarratingepisodesfromthelifeof Dalmatia’sthreepatronsaints,George, TryphonandJerome.

Late HeadbackwesttowardstheRialto Bridge.Forabreathtakingview,pop intotheglitzynewFondacodei Tedeschishoppingmall(Calledel FontegodeiTedeschi)andtaketheescalatoruptotheroofterrace.Afterwards,crosstheRialtoBridgetothe marketarea,andjointhefunbygrabbing aspritzathole-in-the-wallbarAlMerca,and munchingonafewcicchetti—goforbaccala mantecato(creamedsaltcod),mantisprawns,or schie(smallgreyshrimps).

Wrapthedayupbyhoppingbackon vaporetto1towardsPiazzaleRoma,anddisembarkatSanMarcuola.Fromhere,wend yourwaythroughnarrowalleystothe delightfullyuntouristynorthernstretchesof Cannaregio,wherefunkytrattoriaAnice StellatodoesexcellentcreativeVenetian cuisine,alongwithgood-valuehouse wines.

DAYTWO

Morning

EnjoyamorningstrollalongthescenicRivadegli Schiavoniwaterfrontpromenadeandhoponthe number2vaporettoattheSanMarco-San Zaccariastop.GetoffattheislandofSanGiorgio Maggiore,andtakethelifttothetopofthe church’s18thcenturycampaniletoenjoya spectacularviewofVeniceanditslagoon.

INSIDERTIPS

Neighbourhoodwatch Headforthegloriouslyresidential Sant’Elenadistrict.SipaspritzatVincentBar,watchingchildren intheparkandboatschuggingacrossthelagoontotheLido.

Cityhack

Avoidhassleandsave(alittle)moneybypre-bookingyourairport transfers,vaporettotravelpassandentrytogalleriesand attractionsthroughVeneziaUnica.

Attractions

BehindthesplendouroftheDoge’sPalacelieinquisitors’courts anddreardungeons.Visitthemona“secretitineraries”tour.

Didyouknow?

Therearetwoboatmarketstallsinthiswaterycity.Freshproduce floatsinCampoSanBarnabaandatthefareasternendofVia Garibaldi.

Hotels

AperitiviattheHiltonMolinoStucky’sSkylineroofbararenot cheapbutthesuperbsunsetviewcomesabsolutelyfree.

thefeelislaid-backandveryfriendly.Anannexehaseightmore roomsbutlessoftheaffableairgeneratedbytheoutdoorspace, Turkishbath,andbarandfrontdeskfacilitiesnextdoor.

WHATTOTAKEHOME

EveryItalianregionhasitssignaturepasta,andinVeniceit’s bigoli.Thisfatspaghettiwasoriginallymadewithbuckwheat andduckeggsandisservedwithanchoviesandonion(“insalsa”). PickupbrightlycolouredboxesofBigolideBassanatDrogheria Mascari.

Thesoftvelvet-toppedslipperswornbygondoliersarecalled furlane.AtPiedaterre,beneaththearchesatthefootoftheRialto bridge,thetraditionhasbeenpreservedandupdated.Takehome abrightlycolouredpairforaround €110.

WHENTOGO

Takethenumber2againandgetoffatZattere, fromwhereit’sashortwalktotheAccademia Gallery,avastrepositoryofmagnificentOld Masters.LookoutforVittoreCarpaccio’sfrantic MiracleoftheCross attheRialto.Thebridgehas changedbutthewater-borneconfusionbeneath isinstantlyrecognisable.

IftheTintorettosandBellinisdon’tdoitfor you,thePeggyGuggenheimCollectionoffersa moremodernrosterofworksbymostlyEuropeanartistsfromPicassotoMatisse,assembled bytheeccentricAmericanheiressinthemid20th century.Thegallery’spretty,artsycafeisa sophisticatedspotforateaorcoffeebreak.The garden’slovelytoo.

Afternoon

Whenhungercalls,makeabeeline backtotheZattereandchaletbar ElChioschetto,whereyoucan sitoutsidewatchingtheboats plytheGiudeccaCanal whilemunchingona piadina—asortof flatbreadpizza—orasalad.

NoVenetiandaywould becompletewithoutan hourorsoofdowntime whereyoujustwander withoutarealdestina-

WHERETOSTAY

Luxuryliving

GrittiPalace,a15th-centurypalazzo,isonthemosteye-catching stretchoftheGrandCanal,lookingacrossthewatertoSanta MariadellaSaluteandtothePalazzoVenierdeiLeoni,home tothePeggyGuggenheimCollection.

Boutiquebolthole

Anelegantmixofantiqueandmodern,thefive-roomCimaRosa istheextremelystylishcreationofanItalianarchitectand Americandecoratorcouple.Roomsandsuitesareallbeautifully decoratedinFarrow&Ballpastels.ThreehaveGrandCanalviews. Budgetbeauty

RoomsinthemainpartoftheAlPonteMocenigoclusteraround adelightfulcourtyardwithancientcolumnsandalovelyantique wellhead.ThelookisclassicVenetianwithacontemporarytwist;

tion.Dorsoduroisagoodplaceto indulgethehabit.Thisartsy, studentydistrictisfullofquirky shopssuchasmask-making workshopCa’Macana, whichsuppliedthemasks fortheStanleyKubrick film EyesWideShut Ashortwalkawayin CampoSanPolo,the GothicIFrarichurch containstrulysumptuous artworks.Titian’sdramatic, intenselyspiritual Assump-

Veniceisaunique,magicalplace365daysayear.Butmuch ofthetimeyou’llbesharingthatmagicwiththousandsofother visitors.Numberspeakinsummer,despitetheheat,humidity andswarmsofmosquitoes.Springandautumnaremuchmore pleasant.Iespeciallylikelateautumn(mid-OctobertomidNovember)when,ifyou’reluckywiththeweather,itcanstill bewarmenoughtoeatoutside.Butmyfavouriteseasonofall iswinter,atimeofmistyvistaswhentouristsarefewandfar between,roomsarecheapandthecityisreclaimedbyVenetians. AnexceptionisCarnevale,inthetwoweeksleadinguptoShrove Tuesday(February/March),whichbringsinhordesofrevellers andsendsaccommodationpricesthroughtheroof.Otherregular annualeventsincludetheJune-NovemberArtBiennale(even years)andArchitectureBiennale(oddyears),theFilmFestival (10daysendofAugusttoearlySeptember)andlocalfestivities liketheFestadelRedentoreonthethirdweekendinJuly,when thecityandlagoonarelitupbyfireworks.

tionoftheVirgin (1518)overthehighaltar dominates.

Late TheareabetweenFrariandZattere—inparticularCampoSantaMargheritaandthenarrow streetsbehindSanPantalon—isafashionable butsecludedeveningfavouriteforthoseinthe know.

FavouritesincludeaperitivohauntsMalvasia all’AdriaticoMarandEstroVinoeCucina,run byayounggroupwithapassionfornaturalwine andaSlowFoodapproachtoeating.

—TelegraphMediaGroup

Checklist

VENICE

GETTINGTHERE

Emiratesfliesfrom AucklandtoVenice MarcoPoloAirportwith onestopoverinDubai.

DETAILS

italia.it/en

Main:LookingacrosstheGrand CanaltoSantaMariadellaSalute inVenice;left,Dorsoduro,anartsy studentdistrict,isperfectfor wandering.

Photos/Unsplash;123rf

Cru ing

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PORTSOFCALL: Benoa(Bali)-CelukanBawang(Bali)Surabaya–Muara-KotaKinabalu–Manila-Ilocos-Keelung (Taipei)–Kagoshima-Tokyo(overnight)

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French

connections

ThejourneyfromParisto

Afterflyingtotheothersideoftheworld,thelastthinganyonefeelslikedoing isboardinganotherplane.So,afterexploringthetreasuresofParis,continue yourtravelthroughFrancebyrail,suggests RubyBoukabou

T

heFrenchGovernmenthas bannedshort-hauldomestic flightsaspartofitsclimateaction plan.Andevenforslightlylonger travel,railhasbecomethefavouredmodeoftransportwhen travellinginFrance(particularlyfromParis)— it’slessstressfulthanflyingandquicker,and usuallycheaper,thandriving.Sobookawindow seatandgetreadytomarvelatthescenery: sunflowerfields;olivegroves;medievalhamlets; pineforests;snow-cappedmountainsand thedazzlingMediterraneanSea.GOODTOKNOW

TGVsarethehigh-speedtrainsrunningupto320km/h,butkeepinmind thedifferencesbetweentheinOUI (dining/snackbar,drop-downtables, morepowerpoints,morecomfortable andafirst-classoption)andOUIGO (low-cost,morecramped,extra luggagefee,nodining car,longertransfers).

Ticketsopenupthree monthsinadvanceand pricesdifferdramatically dependingondemand,so bookasearlyasyoucan.

“Inter-cites”aretheslower long-distancetrainsandTERs areregionaltrains.

Paris—LeHavre(Normandy) LeHavre(meaningtheharbour) wasfoundedin1517byKingFrancis I,bombedin1944andrebuiltinthe 1950s,givingitacuriousfeelingof beingsimultaneouslyoldandquite new.Thetwo-hourtrainridenorth fromGareSaint-Lazarepasses RenzoPiano’smesmerising, massive2017TribunaldeParis thenzig-zagsovertheSeine, passingfields,stonehouses,

ancientfarmsandviaducts.Looktotheleftat Rouentoglimpsethecathedral,famousfrom ClaudeMonet’s1890sseries.OnceinUnescolistedLeHavre,visittheImpressionist-rich MuMamuseum,goop-shopping,thenhead toatrendyport-sidebarforoysters—try ChezLili.

Paris—Burgundy(Montbardand Semur-en-Auxois)

Burgundyineast-centralFranceisfamousforitswine,cheese,mustard andchateaux.Itonlytakesan houronTGV,orlessthantwoon aregionaltrain.You’llpassfields ofsunflowersandcereal,hamlets withstonehousesandcutelittle churchesandgreenpastures withcreamyCharolaiscows.In Montbardcheckoutthestatue oftheComtedeBuffonandthe cloistersofFontenayAbbey (datingbackto1118).Then bustotheprettymedieval villageofSemur-en-Auxois bytheArmanconriver….or continuehalfanhourbyrail toDijon,thecapitalofBurgundy.

Paris—Nice(then Ventimiglia)

isthebestbit,withtantalisingglimpsesofblue thatfinallyopenuptodazzlingMediterranean viewswithyachts,beaches,palmtreesandlocals loungingonthesand.

AfterspendingsometimeinNiceandexploringtheCoteD’azure(Villefranche-sur-Mer, Antibes,Juan-les-Pins),continuetotheItalian border.This50-minutetraintriptoVentimiglia isspectacular.You’llgazeoverpastelvillages, ArtDecovillasandaseasoenticingyou’llwant toplungeintoit…whichyoucanaftera seafoodlunch(andgreatcoffee)atabeachsiderestaurant,astrollfromthestationin Italy.

Puget-Theniers—Annot:‘Traindes PignesaVapeur’(ProvenceAlps)

Stepbackintimeonthisvolunteer-run, historicallyclassifiedsteamtrain.The journeystartsinPuget-Theniers(anhour andahalffromNice)andwindsthroughpine treesandolivegroves,oversteelbridgesand throughmountaintunnels.AtAnnotyou’llhave timetolunchandstrollthroughthenarrow streetsandcharmingsquareswitholdstone fountainsbeforecatchingthenexttrainback. TheserviceislimitedtoSundayswithextradates insummer.

Bustling,sun-kissedNice,in thesoutheastofFranceinthe FrenchRiviera,isapopulardestinationforitscolourfulbuildings,artgalleries,longpebble beachandalfrescodining.It’s asix-hourTGVtripandyou’ll wanttobookawindowseaton theright-handsideofthe train.Ifyoudoneedanap, nowisthetime(asyoupass thewindturbines,fieldsand cows),asfromMarseilleon

Checklist FRANCE

GETTINGTHERE

Qatar,Emirates,Singapore AirlinesandCathayPacific allflyfromAucklandto Pariswithonestopover.

DETAILS sncf.fr

Villefranche-de-Conflent—LatourdeCarolEnveitg:‘TheYellowTrain’(Pyrenees) BewowedbythePyreneesinthesouthwestof Franceonthisopen-airyellowtrainthatruns towardstheSpanishborder.TheTrainLineof Cerdanyawasconstructedbetween1903and1927 andthetripreachesitspeakatBolquere-Eyne (1592mabovesealevel)beforedescendinginto thevalley.You’llcrosstheGisclardsuspension bridge,thePontSejourneandthePlateau Cerdan,allthetimesurroundedbythebreathtakingmountainrange.

Paris—Barcelona

Whenyou’rereadytoexploreFrance’sneighbouringcountries,dosobyrail.Paristo Barcelonanowtakesonlysixandahalfhours withaconstantlychanginglandscape.You’llsee theRhoneRiver,theAlps,theMassifCentral (highlandsofsouth-centralFrance),sunflower fields,theMediterranean,flamingosstalkingthe marshlands,andexperienceaspectacularmomentwithwateronbothsidesofthetrain.

TheJacobitesteamtrainjourney fromFortWilliamtoMallaigtakes inspectacularScottishscenery; below,TheNilgiriMountain Railway.

Photos/Unsplash;123rf;Supplied

SMALL

bundleddaytourofVaticanCityandCastel Gandolfo,orCastelGandolfoonitsown,and includeasummerpalacetourwithatrain journeythroughitsbeautifulgardensandRoman ruins.Thetouractivitiesatthesummerpalace includeabreak,leavingvisitorsenoughtimeto explorebeyondthepalacegrounds. museivaticani.va

TheAngel’sFlightRailway,LosAngeles,US The10-minutetripontheAngel’sFlight,officiallythe“world’sshortestrailway”,offersan opportunitytoexperienceatasteofhistoricLA inacitythatloveseverythingnew.Builtin1901, thefunicularwasdesignedtotakeresidentsup anddownBunkerHill,andbythe1940sand1950s hadbecomeapopularmovielocation(areconstructionoftherailwaywascreatedforthe1997 film L.A.Confidential).Afterableakperiodwhen thestationwasclosedformorethan25years, therestoredAngel’sFlightreopenedin1996, closingagainforfurtherrestorationbetween 2013and2017.Therailwaynowrunsdailyfrom itsstationacrossfromGrandCentralMarketin downtownLA,travellinguptoCaliforniaPlaza, onSouthGrandAvenue. angelsflight.org

NilgiriMountainRailway,India

PartoftheDarjeelingHimalayanRailway UnescoWorldHeritageSite,the stretchoftrackfromMettupalayamtoUdhagamandalam (akaOoty)inWestBengal wasbuiltbytheBritishin 1908andisoneofthe steepesttracksinAsia. Swiss-madesteamlocomotivescoverthe46km line,andeventhough thedistanceisshort,it takesaleisurelyfourand ahalfhoursuphilltoreach themountainresorttownof Udhagamandalam(although thereturnjourneyshavesmore thananhouroffthetime).The leisurelyspeedisabenefit,offeringmountain andjungleviews,hairpinturns,tunnels,and bridges.Historicstations,includingCoonoor, featuredinDavidLean’siconic1984film, A PassagetoIndia,dottheroute. irctc.co.in

Jacobitesteamtrain,Scotland

is BEAUTIFUL

Someoftheworld’sgreattrainjourneyslastaweekormore,andeventhe shortestareoftenmorethanafullday’stravel,butifyoudon’thavethetime, money,orinclinationtotakealongjourney,ashorttripcanbejustassweet, writes

JustineCostigan

Amini—SwissAlpsexperience:

ChurtoArosa

TheBerninaandGlacierExpressroutesmaybe Switzerland’smostfamoustrainjourneys,but thistinyalpinecountryhasawealthofmuch shorterjourneysofferingequallyspectacular views.TheChur-Arosalineisanhour-long, 26-kilometrejourneythatstartsinChur’shistorictown(Switzerland’soldest)beforeheading upmorethan1000metresthroughtheunspoilt SchanfiggvalleytoArosa.Theprettyresort villageisayear-rounddestinationwithskiing inwinterandhikinginthewarmermonths,a beautifullake,andplentyofcafesand restaurants.AtChristmasandseasonally throughouttheyear,onFridayeveningsthe

trainbecomesarestaurantcar,offeringa gourmetthree-coursemealwhileyou journeythroughthestunningmountain scenery. rhb.ch

TheVaticanExpress,Europe

Everycityneedsitsownrailwayline, evenoneassmallasTheVatican.Open tovisitorsonSaturdays,TheVatican’s electrictrainventuresfromtheheartofthe HolyCitytothe17thcenturyApostolicPalace, thePope’ssummerresidenceinCastelGandolfo, apicturesquetownperchedhighabovescenic LakeAlbano,23kmsoutheastofRome.Tickets forthehour-longjourneycomeaspartofa

The HarryPotter films,whichoftenfeaturean iconicrailwayjourneythroughdramaticscenery toHogwartsCastle,openedageneration’seyes tothemagicoftheScottishlandscape.The JacobitesteamtrainjourneyfromFortWilliam toMallaigtakesinsomeofthisspectacular scenery—includingtheGlenfinnanViaduct featuredinthePotterfilms—aswellasrugged beaches,mountains,lochs,andonaclearday, viewsoftheInnerHebrideanislesofRum,Eigg, Muck,andCanna.The135kmroundtripincludes regularstopstowanderaswellasa90-minute breakforlunchinMallaig.Aswellasstandard seats,thetrainincludestablesfortwoandprivate compartmentoptions. westcoastrailways.co.uk

KurandaScenicRailway,Queensland, Australia

Therearemanywonderfulwaystoexplorethe DaintreeRainforestinFarNorthQueensland,buttheclassicKurandaRailway shouldbeoneveryone’sto-dolist.Starting inGimuy(Cairns),andslowlyrising327 metresviaBubundji(Freshwater)to Ngunbay(Kuranda),thetwo-hour journeytotheheartoftherainforest passesthedramaticBarronGorge, waterfalls,andlushforestscenery.Built tobringproducefromtheTablelandsto thecoast,theroutestilluses100-year-old carriages—withoutair-conditioning— offeringachancetoexperiencetherailway asitoncewas.Itmaybeabitsticky,butthe widewindowsallowfreshair,coolingwaterfall mistsandthescentoftheforesttoenter. ksr.com.au

TheKurandaScenicRailway nearCairns.

ON THE LINE

LosAngelesisasprawling tangleoftouristattractions anditpaystovisitthemvia thecity’sefficientandbudgetfriendlysubwaysystem, writes

ElaineGlusac

Thereareplentyoffreeandcheap thingstodoinLosAngeles.Asa traveller,theissueisgettingto them.FromLosAngelesInternationalAirport,rentalcarsrecently pricedoutaroundUS$75($127)a daybeforetaxandgas.Taxisandapp-basedrides betweentheairportanddowntowncostUS$40 to$70($68-$118)dependingonthetimeofday. Thenthere’sovernightparking—US$50to$60 isn’tunusual.

Butthereisabargainalternative:thesubway, astealatUS$1.75foraride,US$5foradaypass orUS$18($30.50)foraweek.

InLosAngeles,landoftrafficjams,thegotovehicleisthecar.Butfordecades,Los AngelesCounty’spublictransitauthority,Metro,hasbeentryingtowean Angelenosfromtheirautos,building morethan100trainstopsonseven linessince1990,includingtheK Line,whichopenedlastOctober, runningthroughSouthLos Angeles.InJune,theRegionalConnectorTransitProjectconsolidated downtownconnections,makingit possibletorideeast-westbetween EastLosAngelesandSantaMonica, andnorth-southbetweenAzusaand LongBeachwithouttransferring.

Anotherextension,duein2024,willlink toLosAngelesInternationalAirport,one amongninefuturestationssettoopenbeforethe cityhoststhe2028SummerOlympics.

Thesystem’sutilitytoresidentsvariesby wheretheyliveinthesprawlingcity.But,said MichaelJuliano,theLosAngeleseditorof TimeOutMedia,whohaswrittenabout thesystem,“Asatourist,quiteafew placesyouwanttogoareonaMetro route.”

Nothingmakesmefeelmore familiarwithadestinationthan successfullynavigatingit.Inmy view,goingplacesisn’tknowing placesunlessIcanfindmyway usinglocalmodesoftransport. WhenItoldfriendsIwasheadingto LosAngelestoseethecitybysubway, onejokedthatitwouldbe“averyshort story”.AnAngelenowhoadmittedshe hadnevertakenthetrainadvisedIpack pepperspray.

ambassadors,employeeswhotravelthesystem toeducatethepublicandhelpensuresafety.

Inacountythatcoversmorethan10,000sq kmand88cities,therewereplacesI couldn’tgettobysubway.Onetour companythatoffersguidedhikestothe iconicHollywoodsigntoldmeits startingpointwasnowherenearpublictransit.Buslinesandride servicescanfillthegaps,butwith onenotableexception—theFlyAwayBus,whichrunsroughly everyhalf-hourbetweentheairport andUnionStationdowntown (US$9.75)—Istucktothetrainsasa testoftheirutility.Here’swhatIfound.

AlllinesleadDowntown

TheFlyAwayBusdroppedmeatUnionStation, a1939missionrevivalgemthatservesnotjust asahubforAmtraktrainsandregional MetrolinkserviceinLosAngelesCountyandfive surroundingcounties,butalsoasthenexusof threeMetrolines,theA,BandD. Thesesubwaylinesmakeseveralstops throughoutdowntown,anareafilled withculturalattractions—including theoriginalMexicansettlementon OlveraSt,oppositeUnionStation— andmanyhotels,suchastheFreehandLosAngeles.

Butthreedaysofridingtherailsprovedthem mostlywrong.Notonlyisthesubwaywell connectedtopopularsites—fromSantaMonica beachestodowntownmuseums—itstrainsrun frequently.Thoughmyexperiencewasnot threatening,thesystemhasstruggledwithan evidentinfluxofhomelesspeopleridingthe trains.Onseveraloccasions,IrodewithMetro

Aboutfourblocksfromtheclosest subwaystopdowntown,theretro hoteloccupiesthe1924Commercial ExchangeBuilding,offeringhostelstyleroomswithmultiplebedsthatare popularwithstudents,aswellasprivate roomslikeminewithmacramewall hangingsandeclecticartreminiscentof thriftshops(IpaidUS$150anight).

Betweenthesubwayandwalking,Ifound downtowneasytonavigateandrichtoexplore, startingatTheBroadmuseum(free),animpressivehomeforcollectorsEliandEdytheBroad’s contemporaryartcollectionfilledwithworksby Jean-MichelBasquiat,RoyLichtensteinand AndyWarhol.Onthenextblock,Itookabreak inthequietgardensbehindtheWaltDisney

ConcertHall,aswoopingsteellandmarkby architectFrankGehry.

Nearby,IrodeLosAngeles’shortestrailway, AngelsFlight,a1901funicularthatsummitsa one-blockhillforUS50cifyouhaveaMetrocard (US$1ifyoudon’t).

Withasubwaystopvirtuallyacrossthestreet, GrandCentralMarket,afoodhallthatdatesback to1917,drewmebackrepeatedlyforcreamy scrambledeggsandwichesfromEggslut (US$9.75)andSalvadoranpupusas,orstuffed corncakes,fromSarita’sPupuseria(US$5.50).

Nextstop:Hollywood

Fromdowntown,theBLinerunsnorthwestto theheartofHollywood.Surfacingatthe Hollywood/Highlandstationwaslikeemerging inalow-rise,sunnyTimesSquare.Actors dressedasSpider-ManandMichaelJacksonwere posingwithtouristsfortips.Toutswerehawking TMZbustoursofcelebrityhangouts.IimmediatelycrossedpathswithGrouchoMarx’sstaron theHollywoodWalkofFame,whereTomCruise sharesthepavementwithWeirdAlYankovicand fanstookselfiesatSnoopDogg’splaque.

Thestarryroutepassedthe1927Grauman’s ChineseTheatre(nowknownasTCLChinese Theatre)whereIsizedupmyfootprintwith RobertDeNiro’samongthemanycelebrity salutescementedinthepavementbeforeits entrance.

TheBLineoffersaccesstolessfrenzied neighbourhoodstoo,includingKoreatown, whereIbacktrackedtoenjoysalmonslickedin umamioilfromconveyorbeltsushispotKura (US$3.65aplate).

Theroutealsooffersareadysolutionfor reachingGriffithPark,thelushSantaMonica Mountainspreserve,withpanoramicviewsover thecityandscoresofwalkingtrails.Fromthe BLinestopatVermont/Sunset,Icaughtafree LADOTDASHbustotheGriffithParkObservatory,popularforitsrooftopviews,andwatched astirringstarshowintheplanetarium(US$10).

Traintothebeach

First-timevisitorsareoftensurprisedatthesize ofmetroLosAngeles,whichencompassesLong

ThefamedGriffithPark ObservatoryinLosAngeles; right,atrainarrivesonthe ExpoPark/USCstationonthe LosAngelesMetro’sEline.

Beachinthesouth,Malibuinthewestandthe SanGabrielMountainsintheeast.

“PeoplecometoCaliforniaandwanttogo tothebeach,buttheydon’trealisethat SantaMonicaisabout19kmfromdowntownLA,andit’salong19kmwhether you’redrivingortakingpublic transportation,”saidOken,the Freehandmanager.

OnaWednesdayat8.30am, GoogleMapsputthetrainride ontheELinefromdowntownat justoveranhour,thesameas thedrive,excludingthehuntfor parking.

Runningmostlyabove ground,theELineprovideda ride-bytourpasttheUniversityof SouthernCaliforniacampustoCulverCityandfinallySantaMonica. Recordedannouncementsidentifiedthe attractionsneareachstop,suchasthe NaturalHistoryMuseumofLosAngeles CountyandExpositionParkattheExpoPark/ USCstop.

TheELineendsafewblocksfromthepopular SantaMonicaPier,filledwithamusementpark ridesandrestaurants,whichweremostlyclosed inthemorning,asaguitaristplayedthelonely Latinostandard Quizas,Quizas,Quizas to walkersenjoyingtranquilviews.

‘Connecttocreativity’ MetromarketsthenewKLinewithposters throughoutthesystemencouragingridersto “ConnecttoCreativity”,areferencetoSouthLos Angelescommunitiesthathavenurturedthe likesofartistKehindeWileyandactressIssaRae, andtothepublicartineachstation.

“Artisacomponentofanintroductiontothe system,”saidMayaEmsden,whooversees Metro’spublicartprogrammes,includingthe commissioningofartforeachoftheseven

currentKLinestations.“It’saneye-opener.” Onmyfinalafternoon,IrodetheK,departing fromitsnorthernmoststopatExpo/ Crenshaw,whereitmeetstheELine, throughthecommunitiesofCrenshaw andInglewood,hometoSoFi Stadium,wheretheNFL’sRams andChargersplay.

InCrenshaw,someofthemost intriguingartontheroutehas yettobeunveiled.Theeconomic developmentorganisationDestinationCrenshawiscommissioningworksbymorethan100 Blackartiststobeinstalledin acentrepieceparkandalong1.3 milesofCrenshawBoulevardbesidethegrade-leveltraintracks. Theprojectwillrepresent“thetalentandcreativityandpassionwe haveforthecommunity”,JasonFoster, theorganisation’spresidentandchief operatingofficer,saidovercoffeeatHot& CoolCafeneartheLeimertParkstop.

Fromthecafe,wewalkedafewblockstothe siteofthefutureSankofaPark,awedge-shaped blockwithgardensandapedestrianramptoa secondstorey.SettoopeninFebruary,thepark, partoftheUS$100millionproject,willshowcase asculpturefromWiley’s RumorsofWar series and CarCulture,aworkbyartistCharles Dickson,basedinCompton,California,that featuresAfricanfigurescrownedbycars.

“Whentheairportconnectionisdone,thiswill bethefirstthingpeopleseeinLA,”Fostersaid, addinghishopesthattheparkwillbecomean attractionalongthelinesofLittleTokyoor MariachiPlaza,bothaccessiblebytrain.

Inthreedays,IneverdidgettotheHollywood sign.ButwhereverIwent,Isavedmoney, emissionsandincalculable,gridlock-induced stress.

—TheNewYorkTimes

Notjustforsurfdudes

Brimmingwithgoodfood, greatdistilleriesand humpbackwhales,there’sfar moretoseeanddoinByron Baythansurfing,writes MeganWilson

ThelasttimeIwasinByronBaywas NewYear’s2017,whenIwas intendingtostayforafewnights. Emphasisonintending.

MybestfriendandIwerestaying inalargeteepee—ashareddormitory,butinatent—andwereexcitedtoparty andtrysurfing.

Instead,Irememberputtinginearplugsto deafenmyselfagainsttheloudmusicoutsideso Icouldsleep,gettingincrediblysickwiththeflu andcallingmyauntyfromtheGold Coasttocomeandpickmeup.

Needlesstosay,Imissedthe NewYear’sEvecelebrations.

MymostrecenttriptoByron Baywasfarmoreluxurious— andIstayedfortwonightsas planned.

AfterarrivingatBallinaAirportonadelayedflightfrom Sydney,Iwasravenous.Revellinginhowwarmitwas(21degrees andsunnyinthemiddleofwinter), Iremovedmysocksfrommy BirkenstocksandheadedstraighttotheBalcony BarandOysterCoinByronBay.

MycompanionsandIwerewelcomedtoour tableonthebalconywherethesunisbeaming onus.Idecideit’sagoodideatoacceptacocktail despitenothavingeateninsixhours.It’scalled “She’saPearler”—adeliciousmixofalocally distilledwhiterumfromHusk,ginfrom localdistilleryBrookie’s,grapefruit andthymeshrub,lemonjuiceand aquafaba,andispairedwitha dozenoysters.Myannoyanceat thedelayedflightinstantly evaporates.

RosaGelateria.Itakemy lycheesorbettothe beach;itlookslikesummerhere.The beachfrontbarsare packedwithpeoplein shortsenjoyingafternoon beers,aguitaristisplayinganEd Sheeransonginfrontofpeoplesittingon picnicblanketsonagrassedareabythe beach,andpeopleareswimming.

IordertheByronBaydistilleryvodkabatteredfishand chipsandtrymanyofthe sharingplatesonourtable,includinggrilledkingprawnswith garlic,chilliandmisobutteranda MoretonBaybuglettucecup.Havingno ideawhatthelatteris,I’mtoldit’ssimilartoa lobsterandtojusttryitbecauseit’sdelicious. Thatitis.

Sinceit’sicecreamweather,weheadtoBella

Thatafternoon,Icheckintothe CrystalbrookByronfortwonightsandthenext morning,wehavealunchreservationin Kingscliff—aboutanhour’sdrivenorth ofByronBay.

TheBalconyBarandOysterCoinByronBay; belowleft,CapeByronlighthouse;thescallop andIlukaschoolprawn"notburger"atFins RestaurantandBarinKingscliff. Photos/Mia Forrest,DestinationNSW,MeganWilson

ButwewanttoseetheCape Byronlighthouse,sowedrive about10minutesfromouraccommodationtogetthereand goforawalk.It’swindybut beautiful—thedarkblueocean blendsintoalighterturquoise colourasitbreaksagainstthe cliffs.Tomyastonishment,we seeseveralwhalesjumpingoutof theoceaninthedistanceand crashingontheirbacksintothewater. They’reeverywhere—infourorfivedifferent spotsthatIcansee.I’mtoldit’scommontosee whalesbetweenMayandNovemberasthey migratenorth.

HuskDistillersisabouta 40-minutedrivenorthof ByronBay. Photo/ DestinationNSW

Checklist

BYRONBAY

GETTINGTHERE QantasandJetstarbothfly fromAucklandtoBallina ByronGatewayAirport withonestopoverin Sydney.

DETAILS visitnsw.com

WedrivetoFinsRestaurantandBar—a finediningseafoodrestaurantbutinacasual setting.Ourwaitertellsusthatownerand headchefStevenSnowlivedinPortugal andbasedtherusticinteriordesignofthe restaurantonaboat,usingrecycledwood fromBali.

Fromthetwo-coursemenu,Iorderthe scallopandIlukaschoolprawn“notburger” —stuffedscallops,whichwereincredible— andavegetariangnocchi.

OurfinalstopisHuskDistillersandconsideringhowremotewewere,Iwasexpectingsomethingsmallandunderwhelming.Instead,Isee ahuge,fancybrickbuildingwithpeoplesitting anddrinkingonthelawn.Wepartakeinagin andrumtastingbeforetakingatourofthe property.

Iaddtonictomyglasswiththebluedryink gin,andtomysurpriseandglee,itinstantly turnspurple.

We’retoldthisisbecausebutterflypeaflowers arehighlysensitivetopHandwhentonicwater (lowpH)isadded,itchangescolour.Theirgin —madewith13organicbotanicals—isthefirst colour-changingspiritintheworld.

MyweekendinByronBayoverlappedwith theSplendourintheGrassfestival.

Afterseeingyoungpartygoersliningupfor theirbusesintown,I’mgratefulmypartydays arebehindme—andthatthereisfarmoreto Byronthansurfingandpartying.

TRAILBLAZERS

“Becareful”.Thiswasthe messageIheardcountless timesintheweeksleading uptoatwo-monthsolo Europetrip.Afavourite refrainamongolder people(typicallymen)itwasoftenwrappedinto alectureaboutsafetythatlookedlikeconcernbut feltsouredbysexism;notbecausetravellers shouldn’tbecarefulbutbecausemymalefriends neverappearedtowarrantthesamereminder. Thiswasin2016.

Onecanonlyimaginetheresponse(oroutright disapproval)thatwomendecadesbeforemewould havereceivedinresponsetotheirdreamsoftravel andadventure.Yet,flickthroughthehistorybooks andyou’llfindfemaletrailblazerswhodefiedthe statusquoanddaredtogowherenowoman(or sometimes,man)hadevergonebefore.

Wecelebratethem,aswemarkthe130th anniversaryofwomen’ssuffrageinNewZealand.

JeanBatten—1934—FearlessFlyer

ReadingthestoryofJeanBatten,you’dbeforgiven forthinkingyouwerereadingtheplotofanepic Hollywoodfilm.BorninRotoruain1909,Batten wasraisedinAuckland,whereshedevelopeda loveforflying.Atthetime,long-distance, recording-breakingflightsweregainingthe world’sattention,andBattenwasintrigued.Soin 1929,whenBattenwas20,hermothertookthem onholidaytoSydneysoshecouldflywithfamous AustralianaviatorCharlesKingsfordSmith.

Thefollowingyear,BattensailedtoEnglandto studyattheLondonAeroplaneClub.ByDecember, shehadher“A”licenceandaplantobreakthe women’srecordforflyingsolofromEnglandto Australia.Theonlycatch?Shedidn’thaveenough moneytofundhertriporacommercialpilot’s licence.Fortunately,FredTruman,ayoungKiwi pilotinlovewithBatten,wasalltoohappytolend her£500.Unfortunately,Battenhadnoplansto becomeahousewife,sotookthemoneyand ghostedthepoorlad.

AftertwoattemptsatflyingbetweenEngland andAustralia,Battensecuredtherecordin1934, over15days.Highonthethrillofadventure,she wentontosetseveralrecordsduringthe1930s.

Shebecamethefirstwomantoflysoloreturn fromEnglandtoAustralia(1933),flyfromEngland toSouthAmericaandflysoloovertheSouth AtlanticOcean.However,hercrowning achievementwasbecomingthefirstpersontofly

solofromEnglandtoAotearoain1936,arecord thatstoodfor44years.

Eventually,Battensteppedoutofthepubliceye. Insteadofmarrying,shespentherfinaldecades travellingwithhermother,thensolo,aroundthe worldbeforepassingawayinSpainaged73.

PamelaYoung—1969—AntarcticAdventurer Antarcticaisatrickyplacetovisitbutinthe1960s itwasnearimpossibleforawoman.Atthetime, onlyahandfulofresearcherstravelledtotheicy continentandsinceboththeUSNavy,andthe NationalScienceFoundation(whichco-ordinated researchprojects),refusedtosendwomen,itwas mainlymenwhogottogo.

Then,PamelaYoungstormedontothesceneand became,notonlythefirstKiwiwomantowork inAntarctica,butoneofthefirstwomeninthe worldtovisittheSouthPole.Snaggingajobas afieldassistant,Youngspent10weeksworking alongsideherbiologisthusband,Euwan,atCape Bird.Thiswasn’tassimpleashoppingonan expeditionwiththelads,ashavingawomanin theranksmeantaddingfemalefacilitiesand gettingaKiwiclothingmanufacturertocustomdesignfemalegear.Then,inNovember1969, duringhertimeonScottBase,Younghadthe chancetojoinagroupofsixwomenbeingflown totheSouthPoleasapublicitystunt.

Exploringanewdestinationcanbedaunting, especiallyastheonlywoman,andYoungfacedher fairshareofsexism.Whenherselectionwas announcedinJune1969,shewasdescribedasthe “FirstLadyforScottBase”,andwhenhergroup setfootontheSouthPole,photographsraninthe paperswiththeheadline“PowderpuffExplorers (to)InvadeSouthPole”.

Inherbookabouttheexpedition, Penguin Summer:OraRareBirdinAntarctica,Youngsaid theSouthPoletriphadfeltlikeacircus,rather thantheawe-inspiringexperiencedescribedby firstmaleexplorersRobertF.ScottandRoald Amundsen.However,sheforgedonandhervisit markedaneraofpolicychange,astheUSNavy removeditsbanonwomenandtheNSFbegan invitingresearchproposalsfromwomen.

HelenThayer—1988—Mountaineering Megastar

Meanwhile,ontheothersideoftheglobe,Helen Thayerbecamethefirstwomanintheworldto walktotheMagneticNorthPole,solo,at50years old.BorninAuckland,Thayer’shungerfor

BLAZERS

adventuredrovehertoembarkoncountless adventuresandsetafewrecordsalongtheway.

Itallbeganin1946when9-year-oldThayer climbedMountTaranakiwithherparentsand theirfamilyfriend,SirEdmundHillary;atripthat ignitedapassionformountaineering.After representingAotearoainthediscusatthe1962 BritishEmpireandCommonwealthGames, ThayermovedtotheUSin1965anddugintoher adventuringcareer,thecrowningjewelofwhich wastrekkingfromResoluteBaytotheMagnetic NorthPolein1988;anadventurenootherwoman haddonesolo.IttookThayerandherhuskydog, Charlie,27daystocross585kmonfoot,inbrutally challengingconditions,withoutresupplying.

ThiswasjustthestartforThayer,whowent ontobecomethefirstwomantowalkthe6440km stretchfromMoroccototheNileRiver,through theSaharaDesertat57;andwalk2575kmacross theGobiDesertaged63.Thayeralsobecamethe firstnon-indigenouswomantokayak3540kmof theAmazonRiverandspentsixmonthslivingnext toawolfdeninYukon,abovetheArcticCircle, tostudytheanimals’behaviour.

Stillhungryforadventure,shethenbecamethe firstpersontowalksoloacrossCalifornia’sDeath Valleydesertfromnorthtosouth,aged80. Unsurprisingly,in2009,theNationalGeographic Societynamedheroneofthemostimportant explorersofthe20thcentury.

DameNaomiJames—1977—SoloWorldSailer Ifyouweretoguesswhatkindofwomanwould becomethefirsttosailsoloaroundtheworldvia CapeHorn(andthesecondtosailit,fullstop)you probablywouldn’tchoosesomeonebornona landlockeddairyfarminHawke’sBay.Neither wouldyoubelikelytochoosesomeonewhodidn’t learntoswimuntilshewas23.

AndyetDameNaomiJamessailedoutof Dartmouth,England,inSeptember1977anddid exactlythat.OneofAotearoa’smostfamous sailors,Jameslearnedtosailatage26andtwo yearslaterdecidedtoattemptthe circumnavigation.AndinJune1978,Jamesguided her53-footboatbackintoDartmouthandbecame theworld’sfirstfemale,andthefastestperson,to sailaroundtheworldsolo,beatingEnglish adventurerSirFrancisChichester’s10-yearrecord bytwodays.

InrecognitionofJames’feat,the29-year-oldwas madeaDameCommanderoftheOrderofthe BritishEmpirein1979,theyoungestNew

SarahPollok celebratesthecourageousNewZealandwomenwhomadetravelhistory

LauraDekkerwasbornin NewZealandbutraisedin theNetherlands.

Photo/SarahIvey

Fromleft:JeanBattenwithhercatBuddy;PamelaYoungwasapioneeringresearcher;KiwiexplorerHelenThayeranddogCharlie;DameNaomiJamescheckstheriggingonheryachtbeforetakingoffonaTransatlanticRace;Yachtswoman

YachtswomanLauraDekker.

BLAZERS

Zealandermadedameatthetime.Afewyears later,in1990,shewasinductedintotheNew ZealandSportsHallofFame.

Asasomewhatmedia-shyadventurer,James’ lastknownaddresswasinasmallvillagenear CorkHarbour,Ireland,closetoherbelovedocean.

LauraDekker—2011—YoungRecord-Setter WhenLauraDekkersteeredher12msailboat GuppyintotheCaribbeaninJanuary2012,she didn’tjustbecometheyoungestwomantosail aroundtheworldsolo,buttheyoungestperson ever.Butitalmostdidn’thappen.

Sailingaroundtheglobeisn’teasybutDekker’s biggesthurdlewasn’tthedangerousseas;itwas

theDutchstate.BorninWhanga¯rei,Dekkerhad DutchandNewZealandcitizenshipfromher parents,whoweresailorsthemselvesand supportedherambition.However,noteveryone wassounderstanding.Aged13,Dekkerwas preparingtosailsolofromtheNetherlandstothe UKwhenafriend’smotherreportedhertothe policeandforcedherfathertoflyoverandsail withher.ThecourtsthenplacedDekkerunder aguardianshiporderandconfiscatedherboat.

Undeterred,Dekkerusedallhersavingsand herNewZealandpassporttoflytoSaintMartin andbuya30ftDufourArpege.Aworldwidesearch warrantmeantshewasflaggedbyislandpolice uponarrivalandreturnedtotheNetherlands.

Butrightafterwinningalegalbattletodrop theguardianshiporderin2010,14-year-oldDekker setsail.Oneyearandonedaylater,aftercovering morethan27,000nauticalmilesandgainingmedia fameforherdetermination,Dekkersailedinto StMartin,aDutchterritoryintheCaribbean,and securedtherecord.

TheDutch-Kiwihasn’tlostherhungerforthe oceanandisnowsharingitwithotheryoung people.

AfterfoundingtheLauraDekkerWorldSailing Foundation,DekkerandherpartnerSander VogelenzangrunsailingtripsaroundEuropeand theAtlantic,teachingkidsaged8-16sailingand problem-solving.

Fromleft:JeanBattenwithhercatBuddy;PamelaYoungwasapioneeringresearcher;KiwiexplorerHelenThayeranddogCharlie;DameNaomiJamescheckstheriggingonheryachtbeforetakingoffonaTransatlanticRace;Yachtswoman

YachtswomanLauraDekker. Photos/NZHeraldArchive;Supplied;GettyImages;MalcolmPullman

WALKING WAIHEKE

Atasterfornextmonth’swalkingfestivalis roundedoffwithindulgentdeliciousness, writes

StephanieHolmes

Themarkofatruehospitality professionalistheabilityto takeeverythingintheir stridewithoutbatting aneyelid,eventothe mostoutlandish requests.

Inthiscase,it’sdietary requirements.We’renottalking thingslikeshellfish,peanuts, gluten,dairy—thingsthat mightactuallybeadangerto one’shealth.No,morelike“I’d loveanespressomartinibutI don’tdrinkcaffeine.Couldyoudo adecaf?”

I’mnotproudoftheabove,but hey,I’mareformedcaffeineaddict whostilllovesagoodcocktail,so humourme.

MatteoCozzonlino,OysterInn’s unflappablerestaurantmanagerdoesjustthat, bringingmeacreamy,bitter-sweet,saltedcaramelespressomartini—sanscaffeine—tofinish whathasbeenasuperblyindulgentlonglunch onasunnySaturdayafternoononWaiheke.

IfeellikeIhavejustifiablecausetobealittle demanding—Ihavejustcompletedapreview oftheOysterInnClassicCoastalWalk,hiking morethan6km,takingmorethan13,000steps andtheequivalentof78flightsofstairs.

Thewalkandlunchcomboisoneofthe highlightsoftheupcomingWaihekeWalking FestivalattheendofOctober(generalpublic ticketsonsalefromOctober2).Withmorethan 50walkstakingplaceover11days,there’s

Checklist WAIHEKE

DETAILS

WaihekeWalkingFestival, October23-November5. waihekewalkingfestival. org

somethingforeveryone,fromchallenginghikes onunformedtracks,togentlebeachstrolls,to progressivelunches.Thefestival,nowinits13th year,hasbecomeapopularannualeventon Waiheke’sspringcalendar,wherelocalsand visitorscometogethertoexploretheisland’s diverserangeoftrails.

TheOysterInnClassicCoastalhasbeen oneofthemostpopularwalksofpast years,andfestivalorganiserVicki Maitlandsaysit’stheperfectintroductiontohikingontheisland. Yougetimpressiveviewsoutto theHaurakiGulfandneighbouringislands,dropdownintosecludedbays,andglimpseinto thebackyardsandfront windowsofsomeofWaiheke’s moststunninghomes.

StartingfromtheMatiatia ferryterminal,thewalk,which thisyearwilltakeplaceonOctober26,takesyounortharoundthe headlands,climbingtohigh-point lookoutswith180-degreeviewsacross toRangitoto,Ra¯kino,theCoromandeland backtothecity.

Ourwalkisbathedinsunshinebutthetracks aremuddyandslipperyinplacesthankstoall therecentrainfall,soI’mthankfulI’mwearing sturdyhikingboots.Trainerswouldhavesunk deepintothequagmireatsomeofthemuddiest points,leadingtoasquelchyonwardwalk.

Thisisjustaminorhindranceandnotenough tonegativelyimpactourenjoyment.Thesunny springskiesarethebestkindofmedicinefor emergingoutofwinterhibernationandbeing immersedinnatureisregenerative.

Fattu¯ı¯calltoeachotherfromlushnativetrees, soaringaheadofusaswedipandclamberour wayalongthetracks.Thigh-burningstairclimbs areachallengebutit’sallworthitasweenjoy

theviewswhilecatchingourbreath.

ThewalkfinishesonOneroa’scurveofwhitesandbeach,wherehappydogsrunfreeand happierownersenjoythespringsunshine.We feelvirtuous…andhungry.

Thencomeslunch.Alastascentleadsupto OysterInn’sfamousverandaundertheyellow andwhite-stripedawning,withmultimilliondollarviewsoverOneroa’sbay.TheCoromandel peninsulashimmersinthedistance.Awelcome glassofbubbleshelpstoquenchthethirst,and wetoasttoasuccessfulmorning.Thenhungrily slurpdownourTeMakatuoysters—fat,fresh, salty,delicious.Forthefestivalwalk,guestsget aglassofbubbles,oystersandtwocourses.We arefeelingmoreindulgentsoaddextradrinks andcoursestoourbill,andhaveabsolutelyno regrets.

Thepassionfruitchillimargaritaisrefreshing withaspicykicktowakeupthesenses,andthe kingfishcevichewithcoconutcream,grapes, chillioilandparsnipcrispslooksalmosttoogood toeat.Almost.

Pan-friedoctopuscomeswithahouse-made puttanescasauce.HeadchefValentinaAdornato wasborninasmallvillageonLakeMaggiore, NorthernItaly,sothisisarealnodtoherheritage andtasteofherhome.

Pan-friedsnapperisrichandbutterybutwith aseaweedumamicontrast.Thebeer-battered line-caughtfishandchipsaredecadentlysatisfying.

Thepointlessdecafespressomartinirounds everythingoffnicely,accompaniedbydessert— chouxpastry,vanillaicecreamandwarmsalted caramelsauce.

Wefinishourmealandit’sstillonly2.30pm. Wehavetherestoftheafternoonatourdisposal forwineries,beaches,swims,shopping,more walks…Waihekeisour—well—oyster.We spendmostofitplanningwhichofthefestival’s otherwalkswe’llbecomingbackfor.

Apassionfruitchilli margaritaatTheOysterInn.

Photo/StephanieHolmes

MORE FESTIVAL HIGHLIGHTS

TeMatukuPrivateLandWalk

GetanexclusivepeekatsomeofWaiheke’smostimpressive privateland,throughwetlands,coastalfarmlandanddense bush.

Details: October26,$17,6kmreturn,grade6(outof10— 10beingthehardest)

TeReoWalk

WalkfromoldBlackpoolschooltoOneroa,withlocalNga¯ti Pa¯oadesigner,curatorandenvironmentalistJeanineClarkin. She’llko¯reroaboutMa¯orilanguageuseinAotearoatoday andteachsomebasickupu(words)toaddtoyoureveryday vocabulary.

Details: October26,free,4.5kmoneway,grade4

AllpressOliveGrovesStorytellingWalk

OnaloopwalkfromthemuseumonOnetangiRd,eight localstellstoriesfromearlyMa¯orisettlementtomodern historyandthestars,whileyouexplorethehistoric Rangihouaarea.Thestoriescanalsobeenjoyedonyour owndeviceusingtheWalkWaihekeapp.

Details: October27,free,5kmreturn,grade6

WaihekeonaPlate

WalkthroughtheEsplanadefoodforest,Blackpoolbeach andOneroavillage,endingwithasharedlunchatWaiheke’s RescueFoodKaiCafe,exploringtwocommunitygardens alongtheway.Thewalkismainlyflatandfairlyeasy.

Details: October28,free(butkohatothecommunity gardensisappreciated),2km,grade3

TheHekeBeerandWhiskyAdventureWalk

Thisrestaurant,gardenbar,craftbeerbreweryandwhisky distilleryhasfastbecomeafavouritehospitalityspotonthe islandsinceitopenedin2021.Thiswalkstartsandendsat TheHeke(beginningat10.30am,aftertheRugbyWorldCup final),thenexploreswetlandsandtakesyouacrossthe privatelandofownersMarkandRoanneIzzard,before returningforwhiskyandbeertastingsandsharedgrazing platters.It’soneofthemorechallengingwalks,onunformed tracks,withsteepandnarrow,muddysections.

Details: October29,$72,7kmreturn,grade7

SilentDiscoBoogieontheBeach

LocalDJChristaLoiselwillleadthesebeachboogies,where youpoponaheadsetanddancelikenoone’swatching, struttingyourstuffdownPalmBeach.

Details: October31andNovember2,$15,1kmreturn, grade2

ConnellsBaySculptureParkandtheGinDistillery Experience

TakeaguidedwalkaroundConnellsBaySculptureParkwith curatorsJohnandJoGow,thenvisitWaihekeDistillingCo fordrinksandaplatter.Situatedattheremoteeasternend oftheisland,overlookingCowesBay,bothspotshave stunninggulfviewsandfewtourists.Ticketpriceincludes areturnchartertransferbusfromtheMatiatiaFerryTerminal.

Details: November2,$97,3kmone-way,Grade6

OnetangiProgressiveLunchWalk

ExploreOnetangivalleyandbeach,visitingthreeofthe island’svineyardsandrestaurantsalongtheway—Casita Miroforastarter,TeMotuformain,anddessertatCharlie Farley’s.Priceincludesallfoodandanalcoholicorsoftdrink ateachvenue.

Details: November2,$131,7kmreturn,Grade7

ProudlyNewZealandOwnedandOperated

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FlytoDunedin(3nights)–fullofScottishheritage.VisittheAlbatrossColony,BotanicGardens& ChineseGarden,lunch&tourLarnachCastle.CoachthrutheSouthernScenicRoute–TheCatlins. Travelthroughruralheartlandandruggedcoastlines.SeeNuggetPointandthePetrifiedForest. OvernightInvercargillbeforeourshortflighttoStewartIsland(2nights).ExploreObanandenjoya cruiseofPatersonInlet,UlvaIsland.Thefaunaandwildlifehereareamazing.FlybacktoInvercargill andrejoinourcoachtotraveltoQueenstown.(2nights).EnjoysightsofArrowtownandafarewell cruisetoWalterPeakfordinner.IncludesreturnairfaresfromAuckland/Tauranga/Wellingtonor Christchurch,4staraccommodation,allsightseeingandentrancesmentioned,allbreakfastsand dinners,somelunches,fullsizeTouringcoach,ExperiencedTourManager.FREEhomepickupand returnfromAuckland/Tauranga/WellingtonorChristchurchwithin25Koftheairport.

54WellesleyStWestAucklandCity

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Easeinto

spring

Farewellthecoolermonths withafamilygetawayto Tauranga,writes CeanaPriest

Aspringescapetothecoastalcity ofTauranga,withitssaltybreezes andbeachespepperedwithageoldvolcanoes,meansfewer crowdsandwarmerdaystodust offanylingeringhibernation vibes.Fromshortstrollstopedal-poweredrides onboardwalksthroughoneofthenation’slargest urbanwetlands—whicheventheyoungest familymemberscantootlealong—tobravedips inthechillyPacificOcean,thesesixrelaxed adventuresaretheperfectremedyforshedding thewinterblues.

TeAraTu¯tanga/MauaoBaseTrack

MountMaunganui

IfclimbingthesummitofMauaoonthenorthern endofMountMaunganui’sshorelineisn’tonthe bucketlist,thisadventurearounditsbaseruns anexcellentclosesecondwhilestillproviding allthecoastalviews.Theflat,buggy-friendlytrail followstherockyshorelinefromPilotBaytothe edgeofthePacificOcean,shelteredbyarching po¯hutukawa—eruptingincrimsonflowersfrom aboutmid-November.Keepaneyeoutforwellcamouflagedsealsloungingontherocks,orvisit whenacolossalcruiseshippassesincredibly closebyinthenarrowharbourchannel.Butif the232-metre-highsummitbeckons,preparefor asweaty40-minuteclimbupitsflanks.

Needtoknow: Suitableforwalkingand buggies.Allow45min(3.4km)fortheloop.Toilets nearby.On-streetparkingisavailablenearPilot BayBeach.Nodogs.

Moturiki/LeisureIsland

MountMaunganui

Thisperkyextinctvolcanoisthemoreaccessible cousinofMauaoandprovidesaquick,salt-ladenbreezyadventure.Crosstheartificiallandbridge fromthemainbeachtothistinyislandcovered intwisty-trunkedpo¯hutukawa.Onlyafew glimpsesoftheisland’scolourfulhistory—as aquarry,pa¯,afunparkwithhydroslidesand evenamarineaquariumwithdolphins—are visible.Today,numerouslittletrailssnakeup andoverthenearly2.5-hectareislandleadingto itsnorthernmosttip,wheretheimposingbluffs ofMauaoareonshow,andwhereablowhole eruptsduringhightides.

Needtoknow: Walkingonly.Allow30min return.Dirtpaths,stepsandrocks.Toilets nearby.On-streetparkingonMarineParade, MountMaunganui.Nodogs.

WaikareaoEstuaryWalkway

Brookfield

Wideboardwalkswindthroughthistidal wetlandtoawoodenlookoutperchedamongthe mangroves.Watchforko¯tare/sacredkingfisher andpoaka/piedstiltsstalkingthroughthesoggy landscapeand,atlowtide,crabsscurrying aroundsearchingfordinner.Thewalkway beginsfrommultiplepoints,althoughthescenic MaxwellsRdentranceoffersafternoonshade alongkawakawa-andrimu-linedpathsand grassybanksforpicnics.Ifyoudon’tfancy theentireloop,whichincludesalengthy sectionbesidethenoisyTakitimuDrive (SH2),turnaroundatanypointfora shorterout-and-backadventure.

Needtoknow: Suitableforwalking, bikes,wheelchairsandbuggies.Allow 2hours(8.2km)walkingand1hour bikingforthefullloop.Toilets.Parking isavailableoffMaxwellsRdnearChapel St,Otu¯moetai.Dogsonleads.

Tutarawa¯nanga/YattonPark Parkvale

Enjoythe3kmwalkaroundthebaseofMauao;below left,asurpriseblowholeonLeisureIslandspouts impressivelyduringhightides;belowright,the WaikareaoEstuaryWalkwayisablendofnatural landscapes,frommangrovestokawakawa-linedpaths. Photos/RamboEstrada,TristanBalme,Supplied

Below,YattonParkinspring isadornedinmulticoloured blooms;theKopurererua ValleyWalkwayisoneof Australasia’smost expansiveurbanwetlands. Photos/Supplied,Tourism BayofPlenty

KopurereruaValleyWalkway

Tauranga Bringthebikesortacklebite-sizedwalking adventuresthroughoneofAustralasia’slargest urbanwetlands—animpressive300hectaresof sprawlingwetlands,nativebushland,farmland, pondsandwaterways.Varioustrailswind throughthevalley—fromboardwalkstogravel pathways—passingarchaeologicalsites,includingmoundedpa¯sites.Pathswestofthe expresswayaremoreshadedoroptforthe easternrouteswithopen,sweeping wetlandviews.

Abuggy-friendlypathloopsaroundthissmall headlandjuttingintoWaimapuEstuary, withplentyofestuaryviewsandlabelled nativeandexotictreesforthe botanicallyminded.AllowtimetoexplorethetraditionalgardenareabesideFraserSt,withitsbubbling waterfall,flowergardensand nearbyplayground.Asmatteringof picnictablesandbenchseats throughouttheparkarepopular hangoutsforfamilygatherings.

Needtoknow: Suitableforwalking,bikes,wheelchairsandbuggies. Allow30minreturn.Toilets.Carpark entryoffFraserSt,Parkvale.Checkgate closuretimesonarrival.Dogsonleads.

Needtoknow: Suitableforwalking, bikes,wheelchairsandbuggies.Visit tauranga.govt.nzforanupdatedtrail map.Multiplestartingpoints.Dogson leads.

MatuaSaltmarshReserve

Matua

Exploredeepintothis21-hectarecoastal wetlandalongboardwalkssnaking betweenmangroves,ortickoffkid-friendly highlightsnearitswesternshoreline.FromBay St,headeastonthewetland’snewestboardwalk, hopefullyspottingamohopereru¯/bandedrailor ma¯ta¯ta¯/fernbirdintheshallows.Explorerscan danglelegsoffthesmallwoodenjettyjutting intotheestuary.Fromhere,continuefora longeradventureorexitontoSunnyBay Rd(arelativelysteepconcretepath)toloop backalongquietstreetstothecar.

Needtoknow: Suitableforwalking, bikes,wheelchairsandbuggies.Allow30 minfortheshortloop.Thelongeroption isanout-and-back,soturnaroundwhen littlelegstire.BaySt,Tauranga.Dogson leads.

CeanaPriestistheauthorofthekid-friendlyOutdoor Kidguidebooksoutdoorkid.co.nz

FewstoriesencompassthecomplexityofmodernSingaporean cuisineliketheoneaboutthemarketstall-holderwhogained(and laterlost)aMichelinstarforadish thatatthetimecostlittlemorethan threeSingaporedollars.

ItwasMichelinGuide’sfirstforayintothe zestfulAsiancrossroads,in2016,whenLiaoFan HongKongSoyaSauceChickenRice&Noodle wasawardedasinglestarforitssoyachicken ricedish.Theunassuminglittlestall subsequentlychangeditsname—toHawker Chan—andfranchisedintoplaceslikeAustralia, thePhilippinesandKazakhstan.

Fastforwardto2021,andthesinglestarfell fromHawkerChan’ssky,withnoexplanation fromMichelin,asisthewayofthisarcane culinarymafia.However,ChanHonMengwent abouthisbusinessasusual,“continuingtoserve deliciousandaffordablemeals”.

In2023,thehordesstillqueuearoundthe cornerforlunchatHawkerChanattheChinatownComplexFoodCentreinCentralSingapore, oneofaround250foodstallsinthecountry’s largest“hawkercentre”(socalledbecauseofthe street-food-peddlerheritage).

ThesemeltingpotsaretheepicentresofSingapore’suber-cosmopolitan,intenselymulticulturalfoodscene,steamingandsizzlingwith hybridflavourswithrootsinIndonesia, Malaysia,China,India,Britainandbeyond.

Stall-holdersliveanddiebytheirsingle specialties.ClosetoChinatownComplexFood Centre,theeponymousdishofTiongBahru HainaneseBonelessChickenRiceleftAnthony Bourdaininawe.AtBedokInterchangeHawker Centre,inthecountry’seast,aSG$2.40steamed ricecake(preservedradishontop,chillionthe side)earnedBedokChweeKuehaMichelinBib Gourmandaward.Yethawkercentresarejust oneelementofafoodculturethatradiatesalong everyalleyandflowsintoeveryneighbourhood ofthis50-kilometre-wideisland.

Tryuniquecreationsfromthe‘breathof thefire’

Thepathfromstreetstalltorestaurantwas eventuallyalucrativeonefornowlocalinstitutionKengEngKeeSeafood(KEK).The communal-dining“zichar”restaurant(“cook andfry”inHokkien)inthesemi-industrial central-westneighbourhoodofAlexandraVillage,beganasahawkerstallfivedecadesago sellingHainanesechickenrice.Todayaround150 differentdishesemergefromitswokhei— “breathofthewok/fire”.

Helmedbythird-generationrestauranters, brothersPaulandWayneLiew,KEK’scurious signaturedishes—likecoffeeporkribs,salted eggsquidandMarmitechicken—areboldflavouredconversation-starters.

Evenonaweeknight,therestauranthums withlocalswhohiveontotheold-schoolplastic yellowchairsandtablesthatheaveunderthe weightofshareplates.KEKisnottheplacefor aquietnight,especiallywiththelikesofthe

“TigerAunties”(designatedbeerservers) aggressivelyrefillingyourunprotectedcup.

LearntoslurpSingapore’s‘favourite’laksa RuqxanaVasanwalasaysthePeranakan/ Nyonyalaksaisundoubtedly“Singapore’sfavourite”.Sheteachestravellersafrom-scratch versionofthePan-Asianstapleatherhomebasedcookerymagicbusiness.

An“oldbaba[gentleman]”taughtRuqxanathe prawn-richrecipe,whichhasChinese,Malayand Indianelements,butshe’saddedafewthingsto itovertheyears.Chillisareessentialfortexture andcolour(simplyleaveouttheseedsifyoudon’t “do”hot).Asarelaksaleaves(Vietnamesecoriander)andfreshlysqueezedcoconutmilk.Garlic isano-no,“becauseitoverpowerseverything”.

Allingredients,fromgalangal(blueginger)to turmeric,arepluckedfromRuqxana’sgardenor pickeduponamorningruntoGeylangSerai Market.Thehands-onprocessstartswith mortar-and-pestleandis“hardtomessup”says Ruqxana,“aslongasyouonlyfrythepasteuntil youcough/sneeze/cry[whentheoilseparates], don’tover-saltit,andaddthecoconutoneladle atatime.”

TakehighteaatSingapore’sGothamCity Singaporegainedindependencealmost60years ago,butBritishcolonialinfluencestillhoversin pocketsofarchitectureandtradition.ImmaculateRaffleshotelisthemostrecognisableface ofthosetimes,famouslyhometothegin-based SingaporeSlingcocktail.

Themoststaunchlyheldtraditionishightea, whichdovetailswithmodernSingaporeans’ penchantto“seeandbeseen”.Everyhigh-end hoteloperatesoneincludingRaffles,naturally, andthe“ExpressionsAfternoonTea”at FullertonBayHotel.

Thefunnewkidatthehigh-teatableisAtlas Bar,onthegroundfloorofParkviewSquarein Bugis,oneofSingapore’shippest,mosthistoric

Labyrinth's“Memoriesof NewtonFoodCentre” featureschillicrabicecream andwaffleswithpandan andcoconut-milkflavours.

Photos/GettyImages; Supplied

Checklist SINGAPORE

GETTINGTHERE SingaporeAirlinesandAir NewZealandflydirect fromAucklandto Singapore.

DETAILS visitsingapore.com/en

neighbourhoods.Atlas’“JazzAge”aestheticis alessoninmodernArtDecomakeovers.The high-ceilingedspaceisbook-endedbystately balconiesandalleyeslandonthedark-wooded centrepiece:athree-storeytallgincabinet.

Afternoonteaisservedonatwo-tierrose-gold stand,featuringexplosivelyflavoursometruffled eggsonbriocheandmoreishminibanana-cream pies,alongsideAtlasArtDecoBlendblacktea andafinestableofG&Tandmartinioptionson call.Atlasissophisticatedwithoutbeingpompousandhasearnedbothits“GothamCity” nicknameandplaceonthe“TheWorld’s50Best Bars”list(2020).

Roll-your-owncrispycomfortfood

Thepopiahisperhapstheperfectiterationof streetandcomfortfood—essentiallyafresh springrollmadewithacrispy,wafer-thincrepe. Andyouwon’tfindanymorewell-credentialled popiahexpertsthanKwayGuanHuat,secreted awaynearthepastel-richneighbourhoodofKoon SengRd,EastSingapore.

The“shophouse”restaurantbeganlifeasa foodcartinthe1930s,operatedbythegrandfather ofthird-generationownerMichaelKer,whosays

itwas“theUberEatsofitsday”.Hisdad,Cheng LyeKer,isstillamasteratmakingtheseemingly simplebutdeceptivelyfinickyskinsonthe hotplate,evenifheleavesmostoftheworkto youngstersthesedays.

Fillinga(SG$4)popiahis“abitlikemaking apizza”,saysMichael.Smoothsidedown,rough sideup.Asmearofchilli;gulamelaka(sticky palmsugar)tobalance.Topwithingredientslike finelyjuliennedturnip,carrot,beancurd, roastedpeanutsandtheall-importantseafood sauce.Thengentlytuckinthecrispyskinontwo sides,flatten,androllconfidentlyandsnugly. SitdowntoeccentricMichelinfarewith marketheritage Singaporenowhas56Michelin-starrestaurants, coveringmyriadcuisinesandstyles,butfeware moreeccentrically,authenticallySingaporean thansingle-starLabyrinthinEsplanadeMallon thecuspofMarinaBay.

Thedark,spotlitambiencefeelsalmost predictablyMichelinrefined,buteachmorselof ChefLGHan’sisanythingbutpredictable.A recentdegustation,MemoriesofNewtonFood Centre,wasanunabashed,unconventional tributetohawker-centrefoodandculture.

Eachofthe“NewSingaporean”disheswasa stoponametaphoricalwanderaroundthe marketsofthechef’syouth.Thinkchillicrabice creamtoppedwithegg-whiteribbon,pinkpomelo andkaffirlime.Wafflesinfusedwithpandanand coconutmilkflavours.Onedishwasevenserved onareplicamini-hawker-centretable,withcomplimentarytissues.

Themostprofoundcurveballwas“Hainanese chickenpie”—atributetoLGHan’sfavourite pieandacheekynodtoanother(itwasserved inacustomMcDonald’sapplepie-stylebox, adornedwithacartoondancingfroginachicken costume).Whatwasinsidethecrispycreation? Froglegs,abaloneandaChinese-stylebechamel sauce.Ontop?Shavedblacktruffle,naturally.

OnthisBestofEuropetour,you’llstartwithvisiting London,theBritishcapital,whereyoucouldjoinoneof ouroptionalexcursionsorjustspendtimeatleisure discoveringthecityonyourown.Fromthere,you’ll taketheEurostartraintoBrusselsandthencarryon yourjourneybycoachtodiscovermanyinteresting continentaldestinations.Guidedsightseeingincludes themust-seesights,includingthosethatwilldelight historyfans.

Airline: SingaporeAirlines–anA350-900

From: AucklandInternationalAirport

To: CapeTown,SouthAfrica,viaSingaporeand Johannesburg.Therewasafour-hourtransitand planechangeinSingapore,thenanhourrefuelling stopinJohannesburg,forwhichIstayedontheplane.

Visasandrequirements: Between2017and2019, NZpassportholdershadtogetavisatotravelto SouthAfrica,andthiscouldn’tbeappliedforonline –rather,itinvolvedavisittotheembassyin Wellington.Expensiveandinconvenient.Thankfully nowwe’rebacktobeingabletotravelvisa-freefor uptothreemonths.

TherearenolongeranyCovidrestrictionstovisit SouthAfrica,butdependingwhereyou’regoing,you mightwanttogetsomevaccinationsfortraveller’s diseasesliketyphoid,hepatitisandrubella.Talkto atraveldoctorwellinadvanceofyourtrip–some vaccinationsinvolveaseriesofinjectionsweeksapart tobefullyimmunised.Youmightalsowanttoconsider takinganti-malarials,butagain,discussthiswithyour doctorbeforetravel.

Departureairportexperience: Constructionwork atAucklandAirport’scarparkismakinggood progressandcausednodisruptionsatthepick-up anddrop-offarea.I’dcheckedinonline,butwasunable toretrievemyboardingpassintheSingaporeAirlines app,sostillhadtogotoacheck-indesk.Therewas minimalqueue,andIwascheckedinquicklyand efficiently,withmycasebeingsentallthewaythrough toCapeTown.

Thelinesforsecuritywererelativelylongandtook about10minutestogetthrough,butonceinthe departureshallthereseemedtobefewpeoplearound –wheredidtheyalldisappearto?Perhapsthe premiumloungeswerechocka.

MybagelfromBestUglywasdelicious,andallthe foodanddrinkestablishmentswereopen,butittook methreeattemptstofindashopthatsoldaplug adaptorforSouthAfrica.

Seat: FormyjourneytoSouthAfrica,Itriedtwo differentcabinclasses.

Firstup,AucklandtoSingaporeinEconomy.There are187EconomyClassseatsina3-3-3configuration andthisflight,leavingonaSaturdayafternoon,was aboutthree-quartersfull.Inrow54nearthebackof theplane,Iluckedoutwithtwofreeseatsbesidemy aisleseat.TheseatsarespaciousforEconomyClass, with32-inchpitch,18incheswide,andadecent amountoflegroom,althoughtheylookalittledated, withabeige/mustard/greycolourpaletteand texturedfabric.

ForSingaporetoCapeTown,IwasinPremium Economy–thiscabinhas28seatsina2-4-2 configuration,andunlikethefirstleg,almostallwere full.Premiumseatshavea38-inchpitch,aneight-inch reclineandare19incheswide,finishedinagood qualitygreyleather,withseatbackpocketsin contrastingorangeandblue.They’recomfortableand feelrelativelyprivate,withhigh-sidedarmrests, individualreadinglamps,shelfstoragefordrinks bottles,individualin-seatpowersupply,twoUSBports, andacalf-restandfootbar.Customerscanrequest anamenitykitwhichconsistsofapairofanti-slip socks,adentalkitandlipbalm.Additionalamenities suchasearplugsandeyeshadesarealsoavailable onrequest.

Flightcheck

StephanieHolmes comparestwocabin classesonalengthyjourneytoSouthAfrica

BUBBLEBUSTERCRUISESANDTOURS

CommenceDunedinNov20,Jan22,Feb26.$3,990sharetwin$4,990single. Includes: Dunedin(2nightsincludingOlvestonHouse,World’ssteepest street,ChineseGardens,LarnachCastle,AlbatrossCentre),Catlins,Stewart Island,Invercargill,Riverton,“TeHikoi”,DoubtfulSoundovernightcruise, MilfordSoundcruise,TeAnau,Queenstown(2nightsincluding“Earnslaw” cruise”and“WalterPeak”dinner. OptionalWestCoastextension.

GREATBARRIERISLAND. 4days/3nights

GroupsdepartAucklandOctober17,February20,March12 $1,990twin.$2,490single-1,2,3nightindependentpackagesdepartdaily. Includes: HomepickupOrewatoPapakuraorairportparkingfees, returnairfaresfromAuckland,3nightsaccommodation,dinner, breakfast,comprehensivesightseeingincludingClaris,Tryphena,Okupu, Whangaparapara,PortFitzroy,WindyCanyon,HotPools,GlenfernSanctuary, OkiwiPassionorJacquesHaven,ColvilleChannel,galleries,andpottery.

NORFOLKISLANDHOSTED 8days/7nights

DepartAuckland21March,2024.$3,500shareroom.$3,990single Includes: ReturnairfaresfromAuckland,7nightswithbreakfast atGovernorsLodge,3dinnersincludingfamousfishfryand progressivedinnerwiththelocals,comprehensivesightseeing includinghistory,nature,andgardens.

Locallyhostedtours mostMondays02October-22April. Includes: “NorthernExplorer”toWellington(3nightswith1daysights includingMarineDrive,WetaWorkshoptour,Zealandia,Guidedtourof Parliament),“Interislander”toPicton,“CoastalPacific”toChristchurch (3nights),return“TranzAlpine”dayexcursiontoGreymouth.

GRANDRAILTOUR11days. DepartSept25,Nov13,March13, WONDERFULWELLINGTON -days1-4ofMiniRailtour.EndWellingtonThursday WORLDOFWEARABLEART -September25departuresincludestickettoWOW RAILANDSAIL 14days/13nights DepAucklandSep25($3,990sharetwin),Nov13 ($4,670sharetwin),Jan15,March18 MinirailtourtoChristchurchthenminibustoTekapo(1night-Dark SkyoptiontoMtJohn.),MtCook,1night(Glacierlakecruiseamong theicebergsincluded-manyoptionalwalksandflights),Queenstown 2nights,MilfordSound,TeAnau(1night),OvernightDoubtfulSound cruise,Queenstown(1night)including“KingstonFlyer”.Optional extensiontoStewartIsland,Catlins.Dunedin.

NewZealandTours•Phone0800309196•www.nztours.nz•steve@nztours.nz Allpricesareperpersonsharetwin.Alltoursrequireminimumof2passengers.

OntheSingaporeAirlines A350-900,Economyseats areina3-3-3configuration; lunchisservedinEconomy Class. Photos/123rf,Supplied, StephanieHolmes

Crew: Immaculatelypresented,politeandhelpful onbothlegsofthejourney.Aswewereabout tolandinJohannesburg,acrewmembertold metoputmyshoeson“incaseofan emergency,thenyoucanjustrunaway”.

Passengers: WithSingaporebeingsucha majorinternationalhub,thereseemedtobe awiderangeofnationalitiesandtypesof travellerintheEconomycabin,fromyoung families,toJapaneseschoolgroups,to honeymooningcouplesandretirees.InPremium Economy,itwasamajorityofSouthAfrican travellers.

Foodanddrink: TheEconomymealswere surprisinglytastyandhighquality.Lunchwasa smokedsalmonandwaldorfsaladstarter,followed byachoiceofbeefrendang,chickenandmushroom creamypasta,andablackbeandahl.Iwashoping fortherendang,butithadrunoutbythetimemy rowwasserved.Thepastawasasubstantialand comfortingsubstitute.Theorangecakewithcustard fordessertwasdenseandsweet,thencheeseand crackersroundedeverythingoffnicely.

Left,theKrisWorld entertainmentserviceon SingaporeAirlinesfeatures touch-screen13.3-inchseatback TVsinPremiumEconomy; below,theSingaporeAirlines A350-900,whichflieslong-haul routesfromAucklandto Singaporeandbeyond;thefirst viewofCapeTownwhen comingintolandafteralong

Snackswereavailablethroughouttheflightwith passengersabletohelpthemselvesatthegalley.

Dinnerwasservedabout90minutesbeforearrival intoSingapore—apearlbarleystarter,chickentikka masalaorbeefgoulashmain,andarichchocolate cakedessert.Portionsizesweresubstantial.There wasquiteabitofplasticwaste,withcolddishes coveredinclingfilm,andcutleryinziplockplastic bags.

PremiumEconomypassengerscanselectfromthe BooktheCookmenuupto24hourspriortodeparture, withanextendedrangeofmealoptionsavailable, includingthefamouslobsterthermidor.However,it wasgoingtobe1.30amSingaporetime/5.30amNZ timebythetimewewereintheairfortheonward journeytoSouthAfrica,soIwasfastasleepbefore

take-offandsleptthrough“dinner”.Icouldhave enjoyedarangeofsnacksifIwashungryduringthe night,butIsleptrightthroughtobreakfast.The omeletteandvealsausagewithroastpotatoeswas anicewaytostarttheday.

AfteranhourrefuellingstopinJohannesburg,the remainingpassengersheadingtoCapeTownwere offeredacheesesandwichanddrinksservice.

Entertainment: TheKrisWorldentertainment servicehadadecentrangeofnewandclassicmovies, TVboxsets,musicandliveTVchannels,with11.1inch touch-screenseat-backTVsinEconomythatwere responsiveandeasytouse.Playlistfunctionality meansyoucansavecontentyouwanttowatch, withouttheneedtogobackandscrollthrough everythingtofindsomething.

Wi-fiisavailablefreeofchargeforKrisFlyer members—thisloyaltyprogrammeisfreetojoin andgivesyouarangeofbenefits.Youcanalso connectyourdevicetotheentertainmentscreen, althoughIcouldn’tquiteworkoutwhatyouwould wanttodothatfor.

InPremiumEconomy,screensarelargerat13.3 incheswithbetterdefinitionthanEconomy,and noise-cancellingheadphonesareprovided.The selectionofentertainmentwasthesameasthefirst leg,withthesameplaylistfunctionality.

Arrivalairportexperience: Transitingthrough Singapore’sChangiAirportisanabsolutebreeze. ThereissomuchtodoatChangiit’seasytohave areallyenjoyablestopover,nomatterhowlongyou havetospendhere.AsIwasarrivingatwhatwould beaftermidnightNZtimeandhadfourhoursuntil mynextflight,IpaidforaccesstothePlazaPremium LoungeatTerminal1.It’sarelativelysmallbut comfortablespace,witharangeofpricingoptions, fromloungeonlyaccess,tolounge+shower,right uptosleepingpods,singlebedroomsuites,andVIP areas.Winesandbeersarecomplimentary,asisa rangeoffood;premiumspiritscomeatanadditional charge.

GettingthroughCapeTown’sluggageclaimand securitywaseasyandIwasinthearrivalshallwithin abouthalfanhour.

Thebestbit: Havingarowofthreeseatstomyself inEconomy—thepoorwoman’sequivalentofalieflatBusinessClassbed.Then,inPremiumEconomy, ourhouronthetarmacatJohannesburgtorefuel wasperfectlytimedtoseemyfirstAfricansunrise —surelyagoodomenforagoodtriptocome.

Theworstbit: Actually,nothing.Thiswasoneof thebestandmostcomfortablelong-haulflightsI’ve had.

Finalverdict: PremiumEconomyisdefinitelya moreluxuriouswaytotravel,andworththeupgrade ifyouhavealongjourneyandwantmoreprivacy andcomfort.However,SingaporeAirlines’Economy serviceisoneofthebestintheskies.

Moredetails: singaporeair.com

NZSummerCruise

13NightCruise/Departs1Feb24

groundtransfersarenotincludedunlessspecified,anyhotelsincludedareonaroomonlybasisunlessspecified.HotelsincertaindestinationsinEurope,USAandAsiamayrequirelocaltouristtaxesorresortfeespayableatcheckin,Weaimtogiveanindicationofthesewherepossible,butunfortunatelyyou cannotprepaythisaspectofthehotelrateandmustsettleatcheckin.ESTAVisasarerequiredforItinerariesvisitingUSA,Canada,India,China,Vietnam&SriLanka.Visacostsarenotincluded.IftravellingonanonNZpassportothervisas+NZre-entrypermitsmayalsoberequired,pleasecheckwithapplicable embassy.Vaccinationandhealthrequirementsaretheresponsibilityofthepassengers.

Yourholidayincludes

Cruises

•1nightfull-boardluxurycruiseon boardtheIndochineJunkBoatvisiting LanHaBay,HạLongBay

•7nightall-inclusiverivercruiseon boardMekongNavigator

RailJourney

•ScenicrailjourneyfromDaNangto HộiAnviathescenicHảiVânPass

FullyEscortedTours

•Hanoicitytour,DuongLamAncient VillageandThayPagoda,Huếcity tour,HộiAncitytourandmore

HotelStays^^

•HotelstaysinHanoi,Huế,HộiAn, HoChiMinhCity&SiemReap

•Allhotelstaysincludebreakfast

AllFlights,TaxesandTransfers

Yourholidayincludes

RailJourney+

•3nightall-inclusiverailjourneyon boardtheIndianPacificfromPerthto Sydneywithallmeals,finewines,and beverages

•All-inclusiveOffTrainExperiencesand shortstopsinKalgoorlie,Rawlinna, Cook,AdelaideandtheBlue Mountains(optional)

HotelStays

•5nightfour-starhotelstayinPerth withbreakfast

•1nightfour-starhotelstayinSydney withbreakfast

FullyEscortedTours

•FulldaySwanValleygourmetfood andwinecruiseincludingamodern grazingtablelunch,winetastingand exclusivebehind-the-scenestourof thewinery

•HalfdayPerthandFremantle explorertour

•ARottnestIslanddaytourwitha coachtouraroundtheisland

Allflightsandtaxes

ROOMCHECK

ForaclassystaycationclosetoAuckland’s bestdowntownattractions, SarahPollok checksintothePullman’sswankysuites

Location: OnthecornerofWaterlooQuadrantand PrincessSt,it’soppositeAlbertPark,nearChancery SquareandShortlandSt.

It’sfarenoughawayfromQueenStthatyou’rea littleremovedfromthedowntownfoottraffic,but closeenoughtoeasilywalktoAucklandArtGallery, AotearoaSquare,theCivic,ortheSkyTowerinfive to10minutes.

Price: Pricesstartat$279pernightforaSuperior KingRoom,whiletheKingExecutiveSuiteis$460 pernight.

Check-in: Aftertossingthebellmanourcarkeys,we walkedstraightthroughtothefrontdesk,collected ourroomkeysandheadeduptotheroom,allwithin minutes.ThePullmanisfive-starandyoucantellit fromhowattentiveandhelpfulthestaffare.

Firstimpressions: ThePullmangaveoffaluxurious airbeforeweevensetfootinside.Twolargelion statuesstandoneithersideoftheglassfrontdoors, whichacrisplysuitedbellmanopenedaswemade ourwayupthesteps.Inthelobby,themarble-topped tablesandgildedmirrors,plusharmchairsandcopper accentsfeltlikeamoderntakeon1920s sophistication.

Room: Justlikethelobby,ourroomwasdecorated inaslightlyopulent,moodystyle,withthicknavy carpet,marble-toppedcabinetsandgolddetailing.

StayinginanExecutiveKingSuite,wehadalounge area,completewithadesk(featuringUSBportsto chargedevices),asmallarmchairandalongvelvety settee,whichwastheperfectplacetocurlupwith adrinkafterdinner.

Alargeflat-screenTVrestedonacabinet,which hadcups,coffeemugs,alargeselectionofteasand Nespressopodsandmachine.Adoorseparatedthe loungefromthebedroom,whichfeaturedaclassic hotelbed,withcrispwhitelinensandfour marshmallow-likepillows.Onthe11thfloor,theview fromthelargewindows(oneinthebedroomandone inthelounge)wasvastbutmuchmoreromanticat night,illuminatedbythecitylights.

Bathroom: Thebathroomwassnug,withenough spaceforatoilet,asinglesinkandacombinedbath andshower.Greenpointsforlargerefillablebottles ofshampoo,conditionerandbodywashinsteadof smallplasticbottles.

Foodanddrink: Breakfastisusuallymyfavourite mealbutatthePullman,apre-dinnercocktailatthe lobbybarwaseasilythehighlight.

Thiswaspartlyduetothejovialbartenderswho

Top,twolargelionstatues guardtheglassfrontdoors ofthePullmanAuckland,on thecornerofWaterloo Quadrant;right,thelobby withitsthemarble-topped tables,gildedmirrors,plush armchairsandcopper accents.

Photos/TessaChrisp

Alongvelvetysetteeinthe loungeareaofanExecutive KingSuiteistheperfect placetocurlupwithadrink afterdinner;thebed featuredcrispwhitelinens andfourmarshmallow-like pillows. Photos/TessaChrisp

suggestednewcocktailsortwistsonourusualorder. Andpartlybecausethehotelwashostingaschool ball,whichmeantwegottowatchdozensofteens shufflepastinaparadeofsequins,tulleandslightly toolargesuits.

Fordinner,TapestryGrill&Barhadanimpressive selectionofvegetarian,veganandgluten-freedishes alongsideclassicseafoodandsteakoptions.

Thewaitersweretheperfectamountofattentive andthewinelisthadafantasticpinotnoir;however, thebrightlightingandgroupsoffamiliesenjoying theconvenienceofarestaurantinthehotelmeant itwasn’tquiteasromanticastherestofthehotel.

Wethoroughlyenjoyedabuffetbreakfastwithall theusualsuspectssuchaspastries,cereals,freshfruit andbreadaswellaseggs,pancakesandbakedbeans. Facilities: Forthoselookingtosweatandreset,the hotelhasagym,25-metreheatedindoorpool,spa

andsauna,whilebusinessfolkcanbook16function rooms,includingtheballroom.However,it’stheLuxe Spa(andparticularlythe60-minutearomatic massage)thatwastherealhighlightofourstay. Myrecommendation?Bookatreatmentforwhen youarrive.WhilewecheckedinonFridayafternoon withmindsstillspinningwithwork-weekstress,after 60deliciousminutes,allthoughtsofdeadlinesor dramafeltworldsawayandwewerewellandtruly inholidaymode.

Wi-Fi: Allguestsreceivefree,high-speedWi-Fi,which waseasytologinusingmysurnameandroom number.

Accessibility: Thehotelitselfiswheelchair-friendly andtworoomscanaccommodatewheelchairsor mobilitydevices.

Contact: Forup-to-datepricesandinformationvisit pullmanauckland.co.nz

Room check

Bethany Reitsma checks into Hotel Marvell, the first five-star hotel in Byron Bay, complete with rooftop bar

Location: Byron Bay is already home to several luxury resorts but Hotel Marvell is the first five-star hotel to open in the middle of town next door to shops and restaurants and a five-minute walk from the beach

Gettingthere: An easy 45-minute drive from Gold Coast Airport on the M1

Style: The hotel is a feat of design from award-winning Byron Bay architect Harley Graham that manages to stand out while also blending naturally into its surroundings on the street

Plentiful hanging plants drape over the earthy concrete exterior, and the entrance is off a shaded laneway that includes seating for outdoor dining Inside, it’s a similar colour scheme with contrasting materials terracotta concrete natural wood and of course lots of linen

Price: Room from NZ$699 per night suites from $785 per night, 2 bedrooms from $890-$990 per night

Perfect for: A couple s getaway or a weekend for a group of friends who like the finer things in life, at any age

First impressions: Arriving in sun-soaked Byron Bay fresh off a flight from chilly Auckland I felt like the season had changed and Hotel Marvell was the perfect spot to spend what felt like a summer weekend

The staff were warm and genuinely welcoming in a way that s rare for a five-star establishment, and during the day the atmosphere was calm Granted, it’s just opened but you get the sense that even if it was fully booked out the relaxed vibe would be maintained

Rooms: Each room has its own shaded balcony, providing cool relief from the sun and a sense of privacy and the decor is a welcome contrast to many five-star stays

No harsh white lighting or crunchy sheets here it’s all linen cloudy pillows soft and generously sized towels and lights that gradually fade with the help of a touch screen

The screen also controls the curtains and cleaning service, which takes a bit of getting used to if you re technologically challenged like me But we got there in the end and the blackout curtains worked a treat Bathroom: Dreamy towels and Leif toiletries in fullsized bottles (reduces the chance of running out of a miniature bottle) ensure a luxe bathroom experience

Food anddrink: The hotel is home to restaurant Bonito, headed up by chef Minh Le Fittingly for a foodie destination that s just minutes from the beach, seafood is the hero of the menu, which has a focus on fresh local produce It’s well worth a visit even if you’re not a guest at the hotel

Full disclosure at the time of my stay shortly after the hotel’s opening, breakfast and room service weren t available but have since been added to the menu

The room did include a well-stocked minibar with sweet and savoury snacks, local wines and cocktail mixes coffee pods and organic teas

Facilities: The hotel’s biggest drawcard for guests and locals alike has to be that it boasts Byron’s first rooftop bar the perfect spot to sip a cocktail and see the sunset The pool and sun loungers on the roof are available to guests

Basement car parking is available with your access card once you’ve checked in

In theneighbourhood: It’s an easy walk from the hotel to the beach shops restaurants or cafes or even the famous lighthouse if you’re keen Rent a car or Kombi to explore the hinterland and neighbouring towns of Newrybar or Bangalow

Familyfriendly: Depending on the number of guests, some rooms will be suitable for kids

Accessibility: There is ramp access from the street the building itself is fully wheelchair accessible and the hotel offers a number of accessible rooms you can contact reception for more information

Sustainability: The hotel has been built and fitted out with a big focus on using natural materials and local suppliers For example, the coffee pods for the Nespresso machine in each room are Australia’s first compostable pods sourced from local growers Zentveld’s Coffee and the mugs for your morning coffee are the work of local ceramics artist Brooke Clunie

Contact: hotelmarvell com au

Hotel

The hotel rooms have a relaxed feel, with decor inspired by natural materials Photo / Supplied

Byron Bay stracciatella, on the menu at Bonito Photo / Supplied

NEXTWEEK...

Afterwhathasfeltlikethelongest,coldest,wettestwinter,we’refinallyemerging ontheotherside.Clocksgoforwardthisweekend,meaningDaylightSavingwill beginandsummerisjustaroundthecorner.Tocelebrate,wehavesometoptips andexcellentinspirationforsummerholidaysbothhomeandaway.Findyourcopy onTuesday,September26insidethe NewZealandHerald,BayofPlentyTimes, Hawke’sBayToday,NorthernAdvocate,RotoruaDailyPost and WhanganuiChronicle.

Sunriseat Whangamata¯Beach. Photo/GettyImages

Enjoytheluxuryofyourownpoolvillaat

*BasedonstaysSundaytoThursday

10NIGHTS&FLIGHTS

DEPARTS: 16Feb24

INCLUDES:

DISCOVERTHEBESTOFSINGAPORE–CITYLIGHTS&ISLANDVIBES!

•ReturneconomyclassflightsfromAuckland

•1nightinSingaporeincludingbreakfast

DiscovermoreofSouthEastAsiawith RoyalCaribbean.Spendyourdaysashore exploringthewonderfuldestinationsand enjoytimeonboardwhereallmainmeals andworldclassentertainmentareincluded.

You’llenjoy4nightsinSingapore’spopularBugisStreetwithshoppinganddiningatyourdoorstepand attractionswithineasyreach.Thenminutesawayfromthecitycentre,enjoy3nightsonSentosaIsland.Relaxon thebeachjusta5minutewalkfromyourhotelorbeadventurousandenjoythethemeparksandwaterslides!

•9nightsonboardSpectrumoftheSeas* includingallmeals&onboardgratuities

PORTSOFCALL: Singapore (overnight)-NhaTrang-HoChi MinhCity-Bangkok–Singapore.

SINGAPORE IS FOR DESIGN FIENDS

cuisine, its streetscapes and urban spaces

the city’s youthful innovation and its melting pot of cultures

The result is a modern metropolitan city that’s well planned, well connected, highly liveable and as a result pure eye candy for tourists

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For the perfect photo

houses while Little India (pictured) has temples and buildings that beautifully blend European and

Architectural highlights include the Helix Bridge bridge and the Moshe Safdiedesigned Marina Bay Sands hotel also the architect behind the lotusshaped Art Science Museum But it’s not all modern design there’s also the art deco-style Cathay Building and the National Museum in For more history, visit Sim Kwong Ho Shophouses

Eclectic)

appreciate Singapore’s luxe hotels The iconic recently undergone a full refurbishment to further enhance its heritage features at the PARKROYAL COLLECTION

Pickering Playing on Singapore’s status as a city in a garden, it’s a “hotel in a 2 of elevated garden terraces, extensive green walls, and water features

SINGAPORE IS FOR FOODIES

Singapore draws from its surroundings to create something that’s uniquely Singaporean and its cuisine is no

Malay, Eurasian, and Indian cuisine, it’s characterised by its uses of fragrant

Singaporeans putting their own unique Asia.

Dining out is a national pastime, with Singaporeans chowing down as many as

MUST-TRY DISHES

Set down your Singapore Sling and dive into dishes that originated in the island state

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a hawker food centre, which are open late into the night with each stall

The Old Airport Road Food Centre (pictured) is a good place to start

For more leisurely sit-down meals, wander down Chinatown’s Amoy Street

This one-way stretch is lined with Singapore’s trendiest places to eat and bars upscale restaurants and food centre

Fish head curry: This dish which is best shared family style is exactly as described A and eggplants in a spicy, curry gravy with rice

Chilli crab: chilli crab has become Singapore’s national dish Mud crabs are stir-fried and and spicy

Fried carrot cake: Not to be confused with the sweet confectionary your nana

Marina Bay Sands Photo / Supplied

SINGAPORE IS FOR…

If Virginia is “for lovers,” who is Singapore for? Everyone.

SINGAPORE IS FOR GREEN THUMBS

Not many urban landscapes are synonymous with gardens and green spaces But from the moment you land at Singapore’s Changi Airport where areas and more than 900 trees and 60,000 palms make up the verdant Shiseido Forest Valley within Jewel you can tell that Singapore isn’t your, er, garden variety city

There’s a reason Singapore is called “ a city in a garden ” Imaginative botanical landscapes are one of Singapore’s biggest drawcards, with Gardens by the Bay (right) being the Lion City’s toprated attraction A scenic paradise famed for its Cloud Forest home to one of the world’s largest indoor waterfalls it also boasts a Flower Dome and a Floral arrangements are suspended above Not to be missed is the Supertree Observatory, with its unparalleled views of the Marina Bay area ’ s stunning surroundings

The love of all things green and lush dates back to 1859, when the 60acre Singapore Botanic Gardens opened its gates By 2015 it became world to earn UNESCO World Heritage status Today, its sprawling grounds are worth visiting for the National Orchid Garden alone, where there are more than 1,000 species and 2,000 hybrids on display

Like your gardens with a side of history? Wander through the nine historical gardens at Fort Canning Park in the city’s centre

SINGAPORE IS FOR SHOPPERS

Our top travel tip for your Singapore holiday? Bring an empty suitcase You’re going to need it to bring all the goodies end boutiques, Singapore is a dream treatment for those in need of some retail therapy to Orchard Road

department store, TANGS, opened here in 1958 Since then, Orchard Road has become Singapore’s most beloved shopping district, with shopping centres proliferating There are too many to name here, but highlights include ION Orchard Centre, Mandarin Gallery, and Knightsbridge Mall all of which showcase wares from trendy and well-known luxury brands On the harbourfront you’ll

ViVo City where a wide range of budgets are catered to, while Bugis Street Market is perhaps the most budget-friendly and hottest spot to shop in Singapore

SINGAPORE SHOPPING LIST

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Looking for a garden that feels more natural? Try the MacRitchie Nature Trail and Reservoir Park On its 11-kilometre walking loop and 250-metre treetops walks, you ll see tropical plants and inhabitants of the rainforest, including long-tailed macaque monkeys colugos monitor lizards

Not just another trinket to put on a shelf, Singapore’s souvenirs are often the country’s blend of cultures

Tiger Balm: Sure, you can get Tiger Balm in NZ But there’s something about buying this natural herbal ointment in its country of origin that feels incredibly dare we say it soothing

TWG: Singapore’s luxury tea brand is as delicious as its packaging is local blends that are unavailable internationally, such as the Singapore Breakfast Tea.

Supermama Porcelain: Designed in Singapore, these sought-after blue and white plates feature local Singapore landmarks and patterns

Tanglin Orchid Gin: Perfumes infused to once be the go-to souvenir, but they’re not your only orchid-enhanced option You can’t go wrong with Tanglin’s Orchid Gin, with notes of mango, orange, and vanilla bean

Fort Canning Sang Nila Utama Garden Photo / Supplied

BINTAN

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Make sure to try otakcoconut milk and palm leaves it’s a local delicacy

Many visit the city of Singapore on a layover to a beach holiday in Indonesia or Thailand But there’s no need to backtrack to the airport Instead, board a ferry from Singapore and within an hour, you’ll be transported to Indonesian waters and the island of Bintan Although it’s almost three times bigger than Singapore with a coastline that stretches for about 105km, Bintan’s population is only around 334,000 meaning it’s entirely possible all to yourself Ideal for a three to four-night stay, Bintan is a you can truly disconnect It has everything you ’ ve come to expect from your favourite island escapes, all within arm ’ s reach

Where to stay: Bintan is known for its upscale and all-inclusive resorts including the award-winning Club Med situated close to the renowned 18-hole Ria Bintan Golf Course (left) With its beachside dining, panoramic ocean views and endless amenities including 31 included activities Club Med is the ultimate destination for the decision-fatigued However, mid-range options also exist, including the Cassia Resort This relatively new apartment-style option overlooks the South China Sea and is perfect for young families Housed within the same complex is the Banyan Tree Bintan, an all-pool villa option, which will appeal to couples wanting to indulge Guests of both these two properties have access to the

SINGAPORE BY SEA:

Cruises make a great add-on to your Singapore holiday.

Who says your next cruise has to start from New Zealand or Australia? With two cruise terminals and so many fantastic island destinations within easy reach in Thailand and Malaysia Singapore is the ultimate jumping-off point for cruise holidays

That’s the reason lines including Royal Caribbean choose to base their larger resort-style ships in Singapore from November to April each year Options break cruises to destinations such as Penang and Phuket or longer seasonal cruises to Bali and Vietnam

Amazing Cruise deals at houseoftravel.co.nz/Singapore

rest of the complex’s facilities, including its indulgent spas and 18-hole golf course

What to do: If you get bored of leisurely days sipping poolside cocktails, Bintan offers plenty of opportunities to immerse yourself in the island’s history and culture Spend your morning exploring the streets of the island’s capital Tanjung Pinang, fuel up at a Padang restaurant Then, travel about 10 kilometres from the centre of Tanjung Pinang to the remarkable 500 Lohan Temple, where 500 life-sized sculptures of arahats (in Buddhism, a perfected person) stand in orderly rows

Banyan Tree Bintan Photo / Supplied

ISLANDS IN THE SUN

Weighing up a high-energy urban adventure against a laid-back beach holiday? With over 60 islands, the Singapore archipelago offers the best of both worlds.

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It’s possible to visit Sentosa on a day trip from Singapore, but you might feel like you ’ re trying to cram it all in Instead, budget an additional two to three-night stay If you want to meet locals and soak up the island’s true character, visit on a weekend, when Sentosa comes to life However those looking for it if they time their visit midweek

There’s no question: Singapore lives up to its reputation as the ultimate urban getaway, thanks to its incredible architecture, lavish hotels, incredible shopping, and mouth-watering cuisine But Singapore isn’t just a city destination it s a tropical island destination

In addition to the main popular tourist attractions such as Gardens by the Bay the archipelago has more than 60 outer-lying islands Only a short drive or ferry ride from Singapore’s waters encircled by pristine crescents of white sand, oceanside beach clubs that hum on weekends with locals and expats alike, and resorts designed to appeal to a range of budgets

Here are House of Travel’s top picks for how to best explore Singapore’s ocean playground:

SENTOSA

Sentosa is the most well-known of Singapore’s islands, not just due to its proximity to the city (it’s only a 15-minute drive from Singapore’s heart) but due to its reputation as an entertainment

destination for all ages This is where you’ll

Universal Studios Singapore, S E A Aquarium, and the SkyHelix, Singapore’s highest open-air panoramic ride Add in golf courses, beach clubs, bungee jumping ziplining electric go-karting and Segway tours and you’ll understand why it s a thrill-seekers paradise

Where to stay: Sentosa’s beach resorts are an opportunity to splash out, with luxe international chains like the W Hotel, Shangri-La and the Hard Rock Hotel all having outposts on its shores

What to do: It’s all about the attractions and theme parks on Sentosa, but if you ’ ve got multiple days and are looking for more laid-back beach vibes, then perhaps a little island hopping is in order? Jump on a ferry and you’ll be whisked away to Lazarus Island, an uninhabited paradise boasting what’s possibly Singapore’s longest stretch of white sand Far from the crowds, it’s easy to forget that you ’ re less than 30 kilometres away from one of the world’s most futuristic cities

Sentosa. Photo / Supplied

SINGAPORE: MORE THAN A STOPOVER

The renowned urban escape is your new favourite holiday destination.

Agateway city, Singapore is one of the world’s great hubs, connecting visitors to holiday destinations in Europe, Africa, and Asia It’s perhaps for this reason that many

same cardinal error they try to cram Singapore’s sig into a 12 or 14-hour layover

So, we ’ re going to let you in on a secret that savvy travellers are already in on: The beautiful island city-state isn’t just a stopover it’s a destination in its own right

Although Singapore is often perceived as an urban escape (a reputation that’s

restaurants, architecture, and attractions), the lure of the archipelago’s palm trees and gentle sea breezes are just a short ferry ride away Save the me you’d spend destination and spend it shopping in high-end gardens, sampling uniquely Singaporean cuisine, or sipping beachside cocktails

Regardless of whether you’re looking to immerse yourself in another culture, disconnect from everyday life, or reconnect with your loved ones, you’ll

breaking a sweat (unless you want

Just visiting for a few days?

Starting from SGD$22 (NZD$26), Singapore’s Tourist Pass (thesingaporetouristpass com sg) is available for purchase from the airport or select MRT stations This pre-loaded card allows you to take

unlimited rides on Singapore’s MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) and accessible bus systems for between one and three days, with the most popular attractions being situated along scenic routes For more information including journey planning download the MyTransport SG app

In a hurry?

ride with ride-sharing apps Grab (grab com/sg), Gojek (gojek com/ sg), Ryde (rydesharing com) or TADA (tada global/app/rider)

Or, if you have more time to spare, take a bumboat (riverboat or water well-connected network of cycling and walking paths for those who prefer to hoof it

Marina Bay Sands Photo / Supplied

More than just a stopover, discover passion made possible in Singapore