The best of ehlanzeni

Three Rondavels

Bourke’s Luck Potholes

Published by: Creative Solutions René Hartslief + 27 83 648 8700 The contents of this publication is protected by the Copyright Act of RSA & may not be reproduced.

Emergency Numbers...inside front cover

Umjindi Local Municipality................ 38 Barberton................................................... 39

Map.......................................................2 & 3

Nkomazi Local Municipality.............. 45 Malalane.................................................... 46 Hectorspruit............................................... 49 Komatipoort............................................... 49

Ehlanzeni District Municipality........... 4 History......................................................... 6

Mbombela Local Municipality............. 9 Nelspruit (Mbombela) & Surrounds........... 10 White River................................................ 14 Hazyview................................................... 15 Kaapsehoop.............................................. 16 Sudwala Caves......................................... 19

Bushbuckridge Local Municipality... 50 Bushbuckridge........................................... 51 Sabi Sand Game Reserve......................... 51

Kruger National Park........................... 52 Useful Information............................... 54

Thaba Chweu Local Municipality..... 21

Map of Swaziland................................. 60

Sabie......................................................... 22 Graskop..................................................... 24 The Panorama Route................................ 25 Pilgrim’s Rest............................................. 29 Ohrigstad................................................... 31 Lydenburg/Mashishing.............................. 32

Swaziland............................................... 61 Mozambique.......................................... 63 Map of Mozambique.... inside back cover

PHOTOGRAPHS © RENÉ HARTSLIEF & JOHAN SWANEPOEL

DISTANCES IN KILOMETRES FROM NELSPRUIT (MBOMBELA) BADPLAAS 112 BARBERTON 45 BELFAST 127 BURGERSFORT 174 CAPE TOWN 1786 CAROLINA 110 CHRISSIESMEER 136 CROCODILE RIDGE 117 DULLSTROOM 103 DURBAN 575

ERMELO 177 GRASKOP 92 HAZYVIEW 66 HLUVUKANANI 160 HOEDSPRUIT 153 JOHANNESBURG 328 KOMATIPOORT 110 KRUGER GATE 110 LERORO 135 LOW’S CREEK 70

LYDENBURG 120 MACHADODORP 88 MALALANE 20 MALELANE GATE 68 MAPUTO 174 MARLOTH PARK 100 MIDDELBURG 191 NKOMATI WEST 142 OHRIGSTAD 155 PHALABORWA GATE 221

1

PIET RETIEF 209 PILGRIMS REST 80 PRETORIA 345 SABIE 70 SECUNDA 341 SKUKUZA 124 TZANEEN 290 WATERVALBOVEN 95 WHITE RIVER 18 WITBANK 206

2

3

“Ehlanzeni District Municipality strives to excel in planning, co-ordination and support for our local municipalities in consultation with all stakeholders to ensure the best standard of living for all�

Ehlanzeni District Municipality (EDM) is one of the three district municipalities in Mpumalanga and is located in the north eastern part of Mpumalanga Province. EDM is bordered by Mozambique and Swaziland in the east, Gert Sibande District in the south and Nkangala District Municipality in the west.

Ehlanzeni has become South Africa’s most popular nature based activity destination for both the domestic and international markets. It specifically combines spectacular nature based assets with rich African cultural heritage, outdoor and adventure, sports and events based activities and become the major business and shopping hub for North East Southern Africa.

Nathi Masango Cell: +27 74 931 4627 E-mail: nmasango@ehlanzeni.gov.za Steven von Bardeleben Cell: +27 72 878 8016 E-mail: svbardeleben@ehlanzeni.gov.za Website: www.ehlanzeni.gov.za

4

Executive Mayor Councillor LN Shongwe

African Elephant

Rhinocerus

WE WELCOME YOU AND WE GREET YOU WITH A SMILE!!

Ehlanzeni tourism campaign is a manifestation of the pride that we have for our district. Through this campaign, we aim to promote and boost the image of our district and market it as a preferred tourist destination. Our local municipalities Mbombela, Bushbuckridge, Thaba Chweu, Umjindi and Nkomazi boast magnificent landscapes, superb climate and welcoming communities with rich and diverse culture. The cultural aspects of our communities include traditional ceremonies, music, handcrafts, architectural styles, cuisines, our houses and warm hearts as we embrace all our friends visiting Ehlanzeni.

The tourism industry in our district has the potential for substantial and sustainable growth which is positive for our economic growth and creation of jobs and prospects for better quality of life. It is an important foreign exchange earner that makes a significant contribution to economic development. As Ehlanzeni District Municipality, we are ready to work together with our communities in an endeavour to make our district one of Africa’s most desirable tourist destinations. When tourists visit our district they spend money on accommodation, aircraft, entertainment, both traditional and contemporary, renting vehicles, guided tours and many other souvenirs. The expenditure helps sustain jobs and create wealth by boosting business revenue. The manner in which we treat our visitors becomes a marketing tool that converts our visitors into our Tourism Ambassadors who will spread goodwill all over the world on behalf of Ehlanzeni.

It was with these thoughts in mind that Ehlanzeni District Municipality compiled this brochure for you. We hope you will find this brochure useful to explore your own potentials and to get involved in tourism yourself. Have a safe journey and remember – tourism is everyone’s business!

LED, Tourism and Rural Development Department Ehlanzeni District Municipality

Crocodile River

Crocodile

5

HISTORY It is difficult to imagine an area of greater historical, scenic and wildlife diversity anywhere in the world, and a journey to South Africa would not be complete without a visit to Mpumalanga. The Place of the Rising Sun is already rated as one of the country’s most popular tourist destinations. Anecdotes abound the story of Jock of the Bushveld, a Staffordshire bull terrier whose hunting exploits during his life in the lowveld were immortalised in the story of the same name, by the famous pioneer Sir Percy Fitzpatrick.

Attractions range from game viewing and bird watching, to scenic drives across the valleys and peaks of the vast Drakensberg escarpment. Historical sites and villages, old wagon routes and monuments mark events and characters who passed before in search of adventure and wealth. Those who seek the mystique and diversity of the African bushveld, the natural drama of both the scenery and the wildlife, or simply to relax in the variety of environments offered by the province, will be welcomed by all the people of Mpumalanga, the land and the people time chart. Throughout the Mpumalanga hills and mountains there are hundreds of examples of San (bushman) art. This art serves as a window looking into the lives of the San hunters and gatherers who inhabited the area centuries before the arrival of the Nguni people from the north.

The region abounded with all types of game, plants, birds and insects. The rivers ran full, providing for the needs of these early inhabitants. Later came the first of the Nguni people who arrived with herds of cattle, and mined red ochre in the hills south of Malelane. Early smelters, which pre-date the main Nguni influx, have been excavated, indicating that the use of iron and copper was well advanced during these years. Similarly, early pottery fragments and sculptural artifacts unearthed in the hills on the Long Tom Pass, notably the “Lydenburg heads” have been described as a major art find.

Around 1400 AD the second Nguni migration arrived from the north with their vast herds of cattle. These people had advanced the art of iron smelting and built stone-walled houses for their settlements. In the mountains above Barberton scientists have found traces of “Stromatolites”, the remnants of blue-green algae formed 3500 million years ago when oxygen was added to the earth’s atmosphere in significant quantities to create the first evolutionary step towards life forms.

The creation of the Swazi nation as we know it today commenced at the time of King Ngwane. The area, which was then demarcated by tribal boundaries, was referred to as KaNgwane, a name that still stands. Clans forged friendships with other clans through marriage and for safety of numbers, while frequent raids against neighbouring clans served to replenish cattle herds and to extend tribal lands.

The movements of tribal chiefs through the region had a profound effect on the formation and bonding of nations. Most notable was the influence of Zulu king Shaka, whose empire stretched southwards from the Swaziland border to the Tugela River. Shoshangane, who escaped from Zululand and settled in the Gaza Province of Mozambique, was the founder of the Shangane people, while Mzilikazi, after being forced to flee Zululand to escape the wrath of Shaka, travelled through the region on his way north to establish an empire in southern Zimbabwe. His passage was marked by death and destruction as he sought to subjugate the Ndebele people. Mpumalanga was populated by warrior clans who for centuries roamed the hills and plains in search of grazing for their cattle and safety for their people. Theirs was a life of war and survival as the centres of

6

Mac Mac Falls

Mac Mac Falls

power moved from one clan to another. The oral tradition passed down in the folklore of the people is today an important record of the lives and tribal history of the inhabitants.

Red ochre mines at Dumaneni, 6km south of Malelane, and at Lion Cavern, a site in the Ngwenya mountains, are some of the oldest mining sites in the world which attest to the early presence of man in Mpumalanga, some 46 000 years ago. The red ochre - ludvumane in siSwati, which means ‘four times the sound of thunder’ emphasises the importance of this mineral to early African civilisations. Ochre was used by chiefs and diviners, who covered their bodies with a mixture of this deep red mineral and animal fat in order to endow themselves with power.

Later, San (Bushmen) used ochre both to decorate their bodies and in the manufacture of pigments. Examples of San (Bushman) rock art can be found throughout the province, marking the passage of these hunter-gatherers.

Early indications of the presence of the species Australopithecus and Homo erectus take us back to the dawn of time, placing Mpumalanga in the cradle of the emergence of civilisation in Africa.

The Ndebele are a Nguni people. During the third and fourth centuries they migrated to the Zebedelia and Pretoria areas in a series of migrations, and it was in this region that they established their tribal lands during the mid-17th century. Today a bronze sculpture of the Ndebele leader Nyabela stands outside the Mapoch Caves, to remind the descendants of this brave and proud people of their turbulent past.

The Ndebele people of north west Mpumalanga now live in the area around Dennilton where, after a century of struggle, they were granted land on which to re-establish their people, who had been scattered throughout South Africa by war and restrictive legislation. The history of these people has been one of hardship and turmoil as successive waves of foreigners invaded their historic homeland.The Swazi people can trace their origins to a region in Kenya on the slopes of Mount Kenya, some 140km north of Nairobi. They arrived in Southern Africa under their chief, Dlamini, and settled initially near Maputo. The tribe then moved southwards to the Pongola River and later still into present day Swaziland where it developed its Swazi identity under King Sobhuza I (1815-1836) and later his son, King Mswati II. The latter was credited with uniting the many clans into one nation. Mswati II also set out to enlarge his empire by attacking his northern neighbours to as far north as Venda and the Limpopo River.

King Mswati was a cruel and determined leader, whose army was greatly feared. However, in one engagement, his army attacked the Pulana clan in the valleys of the Blyde River Canyon. The Pulana succeeded in defeating the Swazis by hurling rocks down on them from the cliffs above. The survivors of this battle, fearing reprisals if they returned to their king, settled to the north of Swaziland in small pockets, where the same families live to this day.

The Shangane people sprang up when Manukosi Shoshangane Nxumalo, a fighting general in Zwide’s Ndwandwe army, was defeated by Shaka’s army in Zululand and driven north of the Inkomati River, where he established a new kingdom in the Gaza Province of Mozambique. Over the years his empire grew through alliances with local chiefs and through war, until it extended to as far north as the Zambezi River.

When Shoshangane died in 1856 he was succeeded by one of his two sons, Mawewe. The new king, in turn,

7

Curios

Curios

fell victim to inter-family fighting and was deposed by his brother Mzila. Years of fighting throughout the region then weakened the Shangane empire, and in the absence of strong leadership the clans scattered through a wide area of Mpumalanga, the Northern Province and Mozambique. Today the Shangane nation is once again well defined stretching from south of Bushbuckridge into the Northern Province, and eastwards into Mozambique.

The Pedi, who occupy the land across the northern border of Mpumalanga in the Northern Province, have had a strong influence on the history and development of Mpumalanga through the years.

Many of their leaders have contributed meaningfully to the development of the province, and are set to continue to do so. Mpumalanga today is made up of a truly diverse mix of nations, the product of a pioneering history that attracted armies, adventurers and travellers from all corners of the world. They came to farm the land, to prospect for minerals, to hunt big game, or as businessmen to trade and prosper from the many economic opportunities that arose as the region developed. Others arrived from Europe to lay the railway from Maputo to Pretoria.

Today the names of the descendants of these pioneers are often remembered in the names of towns, mountains and rivers across the province.

Impala

8

Casterbridge Lifestyle Centre

Mbombela Stadium

• NELSPRUIT (MBOMBELA) • WHITE RIVER • HAZYVIEW • KABOKWENI • KAMA-GUGU • KANYAMAZANE • MATAFFIN • MATSULU • NSIKAZI • KAAPSEHOOP No longer just a stopover for tourists en route to the Kruger National Park (Numbi entrance gate just outside White River), Mbombela now offers visitors a whole host of reason to keep their bags unpacked for a little longer and soak in the culture and lifestyle of this diverse area.

Nelspruit (Mbombela), which was one of the 2010 FIFA World Cup host cities, boasts the majestic 40 000 capacity Mbombela Stadium, but the area is better known for some of its outstanding tourism attractions.

The Sudwala Caves are the oldest known caves in the world, with experts calculating them to be about 240 million years old. Located next to the impressive PR Owen Dionsaur Park, visitors can take a breath-taking hour long guided tour through various cave chambers, many of the country - harbouring Swazi princes and Boer soldiers at different times in the last century.

The Lowveld National Botanical Garden is one of Nelspruit’s (Mbombela) top attractions and consists of 159 hectares of beautifully rugged terrain dominated by rocky river scenery and 600 indigenous plant species as well as a further 200 that have been introduced to the garden. A stroll through the African Rain Forest enables one to cross the Crocodile River through the famous suspended bridge, where the cascading waterfall can also be viewed. A delightful outing for visitors of all ages.

9

Crowned Crane

Tiger Lilies

Nelspruit (Mbombela) is the provincial capital of Mpumalanga Province in South Africa. It is one of the major South African tourist destinations, due to its proximity to the world-famous Kruger National Park. Other than the Kruger National Park, there are also many other tourist attractions within easy driving reach.

Nelspruit (Mbombela) is situated in the heart of the lushly beautiful Lowveld, on the banks of the Crocodile River.

The place Nelspruit (Mbombela), which literally means Nels stream, attracted traders and farmers because of the natural richness of the soil, adequate water for irrigation and a level valley floor.

Hugh Lanion Hall (1858-1940) arrived in the area in 1890 and established one of the greatest citrus and subtropical fruit estates in the country, which today is known by the name of Hall and Sons Limited. The bridge over the Komati River was completed at the end of May 1891 and the railhead reached Komatipoort Station on 1 July 1892. On 1 October it reached Hectorspruit Station; on 28 December it had arrived in Malelane, and it eventually reached Krokidilpoort Station in April 1892. The railhead reached Nelspruit (Mbombela) and was put into commission on 20 June 1892. Construction continued and by 1 June 1893 it was at Alkmaar, and on 20 January 1894 at Waterval Onder. Wateval Boven was reached on 20 June 1894 and the line was completed when the last bolt was driven by President Kruger in November 1894.

Nelspruit (Mbombela) was named after the owners of the original farm - the three Nel brothers. It began with the construction of a station up the Crocodile river valley, built on their farm. Nelspruit (Mbombela) was established as a railhead of the first section of construction on the railway from Mozambique to Pretoria. A time lapse in the Railway construction contract allowed the rail company to raise finance for continued construction of the railway, and during this time Nelspruit (Mbombela) became the focal point of the Lowveld - goods still had to be transported to the interior by oxwagon from Nelspruit (Mbombela).

Though the line was in commission by January 1895 it was not formally opened until 27 June, when the Volksraad adjourned for the official opening and proclaimed 8,9, and 10 July as public holidays in Pretoria.

Every burgher was eligible for a free ticket to and from Lourenco Marques (Maputo).

The penetration of the Lowveld by settlement was for many years stifled by two natural barriers - Malaria, transmitted to man by the Anopheles Mosquito, and Nagana, transmitted to cattle, horses and dogs by the Tsetse-fly. Only once the two had been defeated was it possible for large-scale immigration into the area. In 1896 the rinderpest swept through the country killing almost all the cattle. However, this was a blessing in disguise in that it also rid the country of the tsetse-fly. It was only after the the Anglo-Boer War, when cattle first re-entered the Lowveld, that the disappearance of the fly was discovered and linked to malaria.

10

Garden

Guineafowl

In the comparatively short space of 8 years Malaria cases admitted to hospitals dropped from some 2000 per annum to 200. Effective control of this deadly disease helped the community in this valley to surge ahead and Nelspruit (Mbombela) grew to be one of the largest producers of tobacco, litchis, mangoes, avocados etc.

Nelspruit (Mbombela) is a flourishing town with beautiful streets shaded by flowering trees. The town itself, its rich history, and the many attractions in the surrounding areas close by, make it a major tourist attraction.

Mpumalanga which means ‘Place where the sun rises’, is bordered by Mozambique and Swaziland in the east and Gauteng in the west. It is situated mainly on the high plateau grasslands of the Middleveld, which roll eastwards for hundreds of kilometres. In the north-east it rises towards mountain peaks and then terminates in an immense and breathtaking escarpment. In places this escarpment plunges hundreds of metres down to the low-lying area known as the Lowveld. Mpumalanga is located on the South of Northern Province, East of Gauteng, North- West of KwaZulu-Natal, West of Swaziland and Mozambique.

Nelspruit (Mbombela) is the legislative capital of the province. This town is the administrative and business centre of the Lowveld and provides a perfect base from which to explore the province. Witbank is the centre of the local coal-mining industry; Standerton, in the south, is renowned for its large dairy industry; Piet Retief in the south-east is a production area for tropical fruit and sugar; while a large sugar industry is also found at Malelane in the east. Ermelo is the district in South Africa which produces the most wool; Barberton is one of the oldest gold-mining towns in South Africa; and Sabie is situated in the forestry heartland of the country. The green “gold” of Sabie and Graskop provides a large part of the country’s total requirement for forestry products.

These forestry plantations are also an ideal backdrop for ecotourism opportunities, with a variety of popular hiking trails, myriad waterfalls, patches of indigenous forest and a variety of nature reserves. The biggest of these is the Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, where God’s Window provides unforgettable vistas of the Lowveld. The mineral springs at Badplaas provide a natural oasis. Chrissiesmeer is the largest natural freshwater lake in South Africa. It is famous for its large variety of aquatic birds, especially flamingos. The Sudwala Caves, deep in the dolomite rocks of the surrounding mountains, is a worth-while tourist stop.

Mpumalanga’s population can be broken down as follows: Provincial Population: 3 365 885 Black African: 93.2%, Coloured: 0.7%, Indian or Asian: 0.3%, White: 5.9%, Male: 47.6%, Female: 52.4%

The Lowveld area is rich in the history of pioneers and explorers. Gold-rush towns such as Pilgrim’s Rest, Graskop, Kaapsehoop and Barberton give tourists the feel of days gone by. Pilgrim’s Rest is a museum town, while Barberton boasts the first stock exchange established in the country. Botshabelo Mission Station near Middelburg is a romantic reminder of the days when European missionaries came to Africa to spread Christianity. Ermelo has attractions ranging from the corbelled huts of the extinct Leghoya/Tlokoa people, to well-preserved San paintings. A visit to Mpumalanga is not complete without testing the trout streams around Belfast, Dullstroom, Machadodorp and Lydenburg, walking the Fanie Botha Hiking Trail, the very first established in the National Hiking Way System of South Africa; driving up Long Tom Pass to reach the highest point in Mpumalanga; and visiting the Kruger National Park.

11

Aloes

Weaver

LOWVELD BOTANICAL GARDEN The Lowveld Botanical Garden consists of a cultivated garden area (about 25 hectares) surrounded by a larger area of natural vegetation (Sour Lowveld Bushveld). The Crocodile River and Nels River flow through the gardens, creating some spectacular cascades.

The Lowveld Botanical Garden was selected by its founding fathers for its spectacular scenery, abundant plant life and rivers. These features were probably also appreciated by prehistoric man, Australopithecus, an advanced hominid who roamed this region some three million years ago. He was small-brained and made primitive stone tools from pebbles. About 1.5 million years later he was followed by Homo erectus, a direct predecessor of man, with a larger brain and the capacity for making much more complex stone tools. Although they were also made from pebbles, they had superior cutting edges and were used as choppers and cleavers, used for chopping trees, slaughtering animals and digging out roots and tubers. Many of these implements were found in the Botanical Garden, some of them as large as 10 to 30cm in length.

Finer and more sophisticated tools bear testimony to the larger brain of Homo sapiens. He also made arrow heads and the rock paintings in areas near the Garden are proof that in those times game was plentiful here.

Pottery made by Negroid tribes some 1 500 years ago has also been found in the Garden, along with numerous “querns� or grinding stones. Most of the Garden has cultivated lawn and flower beds with paved pathways, but it is nevertheless, an interesting archaeological site.

In 1969 the Lowveld Botanical Garden came into being and a botanist and curator were appointed. The original work consisted mainly of clearing impenetrable bush and creating paths with vistas. Gradually the Garden took shape and finally developed into the botanical jewel that it is today.

There is nearly always a haze dimming the furthest horizons during August and September but this is part of the spring feeling, the anticipation of the first rains, when the air will become clean and clear again. Everywhere in the garden there are signs of renewal and exciting plants start pushing up through the soil. The snow-white blossoms of the wild pear, Dombeya rotundifolia, herald the advent of the new season as is alluded to in the siSwati name for the tree.

This Garden is noted for its wonderful, massed displays of Clivia miniata, which never fail to delight visitors. The startlingly scarlet show of the Flame Creeper, Combretum microphyllum, at the guest cottage and the Cascades CafĂŠ, is a blatant invitation to photographers to record the spectacle. The Lowveld Chestnut, Sterculia murex, grows only in a few areas in south-eastern Mpumalanga, Swaziland and northern KwaZulu-Natal. It regularly bears, in great abundance, dark yellow, star-shaped blooms. The well-known Sausage Tree, Kigelia africana, a member of the Bignonia family, has large, wine-red, trumpet-shaped flowers that are full of nectar that attract birds and bees from dawn to dusk. The polony-shaped fruits are not of the delicatessen variety and are eaten only by baboons! While still green, the fruit is sliced and applied to skin abrasions and reputedly also to skin cancers.

12

Chimpanzee - Chimp Eden

Chimpanzee

CHIMP EDEN Chimp Eden is situated within the beautiful Umhloti Nature Reserve near Barbeton. We are home to chimpanzees that have been orphaned as a result of the bush meat trade, and to those that have survived circuses, zoos and the illegal pet trade. In this Chimpanzee Sanctuary run by Jane Goodall Institute of South Africa, we will tell you their story and their route towards safety.

Chimp Eden is the first and only chimpanzee sanctuary in South Africa and is a must during your visit here.

On guided tours we bring the world of chimpanzees closer to you by showing them in their semi-natural environment. Learn about their general behaviour and group dynamics and about the ground-breaking work of our founder Dr. Jane Goodall. We give you a unique insight in this world renowned Institute.

The chimpanzee (Pan Troglodytes) is considered to be the closest relative to humans and is “Endangered’ under a strict application of the IUCN Red List Criteria (International Union for Conservation of Nature) and is listed in Appendix 1 of CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora). Chimpanzees in the wild may be extinct within the next 10 - 20 years if current trends cannot be reversed.

There are currently three different chimp groups and enclosures at the South African sanctuary. There are viewpoints overlooking the forest and “foraging areas’ from which visitors and volunteers can observe and study the chimpanzees.

Your visit will support all this work and after the tour you are most welcome to have a look in our shop or have a light meal and a fresh drink in our restaurant. We hope to welcome you soon! Tel +27 13 745 7406 PORTUGAL COMES TO NELSPRUIT (MBOMBELA) - MOZAMBIQUE FLAVOURS WASH INLAND Lunch queues meander between the plastic red tomato sauce and bright yellow mustard bottles as the smell of steak wafts through the air. Spices tickle your nose, aromas start you salivating and the sizzle from the grill makes the tummy grumble. Popular Prego rolls are pushed out with a smile in a wax paper bag. Warm Portuguese rolls are smothered with well-matured high quality meat strips which have been soaked in a magic Mozambican flavoured marinade. For a killer kick a white wine, garlic and chilli sauce squeezes secrets of flavour onto the delicious hand held cuisine. Let the tasty juices run down the side of your mouth and the flour from the powdered roll stain your fingers for licking purposes. Chow down casually standing or leaning on the hood of your car for a car park picnic. Smack your happy lips together enjoying a scrumptious roll on the roadside alongside the locals.

A friendly yellow caravan stationed in the local strip mall parking lot has had trolley pushers’ mouths watering and shoppers’ bellies satisfied for over a decade. Situated 200km inland from Mozambique, which was once a Portuguese colony and still is a spicy South African neighbour, Nelspruit (Mbombela) has a Mozambicanborn cook Sâo Hoffman spicing up the lot.

13

Casterbridge Lifestyle Centre

Carpets

White River is one of the most charming towns in Mpumalanga, its streets are shaded with flowering trees.

Other beauty spots in the vicinity are three irrigation dams which offer an impressive view of the Crocodile River Valley. The Numbi entrace gate to the Kruger National Park is just outside White River.

At the end of the Anglo-Boer War the government of Lord Milner decided to establish an irrigation farming scheme for unemployed British soldiers returning from the war. Though this scheme was not as successful as expected it paved the way for the development of a small farmers township which in turn depicted the birth of White River. This town had two other names in its short history, all meaning the same thing but in different languages. It was known as Mhloppemanzi by its African name and Wit Rivier in Afrikaans. The name White River refers to the colour of the water which has a milky appearance caused by the high presence of Kaolin.

In 1919 the first wattle-and-daub homes were built and citrus was planted. The village of White River consisted of a cottage, the magistrates residence, an outspan on the site of where the Dutch Reformed Church is today, the White River Hotel, a police station and stables, and the Magistrates’ Courts. All of these were connected by a single main street. There were no cars at the time and transport consisted of mule wagons, donkey carts or horseback. Horses had to be “salted” or made immune to horse sickness. An Anglican minister planted a tree between 1885 and 1895 in the spot where the old village green was, just across the road from where the original church stood. This tree is still standing and even though it is not indigenous to the area, being a Natal Fig, it is now a historical monument. A house, which was the “Vicarage”, was built near this tree between 1895 and 1905 and is contended to be the oldest house in White River.

In 1916 the Anglican Church moved to where St Georges now stands on Plaston Road and the house was either given or sold to the Dutch Reformed Church and became “Die Pastorie”. After the church stopped using the pastorie it was used as a boarding house and also converted into four flats which were separately let.

The house was also used as a post office at some stage. In the 1970’s it was converted into a lawyer’s office and estate agency. In the 1980’s it became a fine dining restaurant called Timbuctoo, which was run by Mr & Mrs Mike Kay. The building was sold and an increase in rent resulted in the Kays moving to where the old Alfresco’s was in Allie van Bergen Street, which is now Dr. van Wyke’s surgery. Between 1995 and the end of 2005, the house was used as a roadhouse, gay nightclub, restaurant, antique shop, nursery and clothing shop.

In February of 2006 the house was bought and restored by Mr Braam Coetzee and his family. Braam and his father did the restoration and the restaurant opened with just six tables during April of 2006. During May 2006 the dining room opened and in June the bar opened.

Citrus farming became the main source of activity in the region. In 1924, it became apparent that the citrus farmers needed to form some organisation to represent the industry. The White River Fruitgrowers’ Cooperative Company was established and the first citrus crop was packed in 1925. By 1926 the railway line from Nelspruit was extended to White River and allowed for the export of citrus. The township spread over an 8km circumference and presently accommodates about 2500 farmers who live on small holdings concentrating mainly in the cultivation of vegetables, sub-tropical and tropical fruits, flowers and timber.

14

Hazyview Information Centre

Restaurant

Hazyview is ideally situated just a few kilometres outside the Kruger National Park and derives its name from the balmy haze that envelopes the low bushland in summer. This little town is nestled on the slopes of the Drakensberg Mountain Range. Hazyview has a history of gold mining and played an important part in the development of the Lowveld area. Hazyview is 420km from Johannesburg and close to the Paul Kruger and the newer Phabeni entrance gates of the world famous Kruger National Park. The town was established in 1959 when the post office was built.

This is a small farming town famous for its banana industry. The area is reputed to have the best climate in the world for bananas and these lush tropical plantations are plentiful. Most of Mpumalanga’s private game reserves are found just east of Hazyview.

One of the many panoramic destinations visitors enjoy is the Shangana Cultural Village on the R535 to Graskop. This educational visit allows one to gain an insight into the cultures in the area. Hot air ballooning is another popular activity. There are also many superb hiking trails through the beautiful forests with cool, rushing streams, picturesque waterfalls and game viewing opportunities. Hazyview offers sporting facilities such as golf, tennis, bowls, and the area is well known for its trout fishing and boasts an array of delightful restaurants and pubs. The Windmill Wineshop offers a wonderful selection of wine, beers and good food.

SHANGANA VILLAGE Midway between the Blyde River Canyon and the southern Kruger National Park, the residents of the traditional villages of Shangana invite guests to share in the way of life of the Shangaan people. The picturesque villages are set in the shade of ancient trees in a reserve of forest and grassland, and are open every day.

Shangana has been created and built by local Shangaan people, and forms a place of great pride and a way of preserving a rich heritage for us, and an example of South Africa’s great cultural diversity.

A bustling African market village forms the centre of Shangana, where local craftspeople make and trade their craft. From here, trained guides lead guests down to villages on daytime tours, midday tours with lunch, and the famed Festival in the Chief’s Kraal.

We look forward to welcoming you to our villages.

15

Kaapsehoop

Gold Panning

Kaapsehoop (established in 1882) offers many nature and eco-related activities. The climate was ideal then, with no malaria so prevalent in the hotter Lowveld, and it would have been an ideal place to set up a new community. It was the discovery of gold in the streams that initially led to the establishment of the town. In 1882 Bernard Chomse claimed to have found gold in the bed of a stream on a high, narrow plateau which projects like a finger between the valleys of the Elands and the Little Crocodile rivers.

Kaapsehoop with its legends of gold and horses has an exciting history which dates back to the Dutch East India Company establishments at Delgoa Bay (now Maputo) where show gold was being traded. The diggers called this strange place Duiwelskantoor (‘devils office’). An early recording says: “No description could convey anything approaching an adequate idea of the difficulties of a journey through this region. The mountains are so rugged that only the devil could live here”.

The valley is often covered in mist and the plateau then resembles a cape in a sea of clouds. It became known as De Kaap (‘the cape’), and the centre of the gold rush was named Kaapsehoop (‘hope of the cape’). With a little imagination one can see shapes in the rocks, identifying the character “snoopy “ and seeing a lions head and a laden camel, set in the lovely hill country with superb walking and hiking trails through extraordinary rock formations. The cycad here is protected in the nearby starvation creek nature reserve, while the blue swallow, an endangered species, is protected in the grasslands.

The gold and its prosperity have long left the area but the town remains. The green gold of commercial forests drives the town nowdays as well as the scenic beauty of the region. A herd of wild horses has roamed the hills around Kaapsehoop for many years, and is reported to have originated from the release of pit ponies hundreds of years ago.

The climate is still ideal, with crisp winters and moderate summers. The lack of gold did not deter many prospectors, some of whom still own claims, dotted all over the area, to this day. The old, abandoned mine shafts, however created an ideal breeding ground for the rare blue swallows, one of the exciting features of the town.

The prosperity also brought horses into the area which were abandoned when the gold ran out and the remaining horses became wild with free access to everything in the area, including the town. This is probably one of very few places where the homes have to be “horse proofed”. Being an old town with a long history and limited economic activity, it has become known as a ghost town.

THE VALLEY OF DEATH The name Kaapsche Hoop has been spelt in various ways, like Kaapsehoop or Kaapse Hoop but all of these are acceptable.

South of the Crocodile River the escarpment juts out in the form of a Cape. Perched at the top of this escarpment,

16

Wild Horses

Wild Horse

lying at 6000ft above sea level, lies this picturesque little hamlet of Kaapsehoop, on the edge of what is known as the Ngodwana Plateau. The valley to the south of this cape holds the town of Barberton. The valley was given the name De Kaap Valley or more sinister yet “The Valley of Death”.

The Kaap Valley has numerous rivers running through it, like the Ngwenyana (Little Crocodile River), Noordkaap River, Suidkaap River, Queens and others. These rivers have over the ages eroded the Kaap Valley and formed a kaleidoscope of numerous little ravines all covered by bushveld, harbouring a variety of various mineral and semi precious stone deposits, from as far back as the prehistoric Achaean Age, known as the “Barberton Greenstone Belt”. These eventually all join up and run through the mountains to join the Crocodile River at Kaapmuiden.

The well known digger Tom McLachlan, after finding gold at Mac Mac, found traces of gold in the Valley of Death and surrounding areas including Kaapsehoop, although this has not been fully substantiated, but nothing he found was profitable.

The name “Valley of Death” comes from the very high deadly incidence of Malaria occurring here in the early days of the Diggers, as well as the presence of the dreaded Tsetse fly which brought death to livestock and people, caused by the parasitic disease, Trypanasomiasis, known as “Nagana” in livestock or “Sleeping Sickness” in humans.

When David Benjamin bought and obtained the concessions at Pilgrims Rest in 1881, preventing the Diggers from prospecting on his concession lands, the angry and frustrated diggers eventually moved towards The Valley of Death and Kaapsehoop, in the hopes of finding gold there. It is told that Charlie the Reefer was the first prospector to find traces of the “Rotten Reef” or Banket reef, which was the gold bearing reef, so named because it resembled a caramelized Dutch dessert of the same name, on the farm Berlyn, adjacent to what is now Kaapsehoop.

There is another story that gives a digger named Bernard Chomse the credit for being the first to find gold in 1881, in a stream bed near Kaapsehoop which was then named “Duiwel’s Kantoor”. The name “Duiwels Kantoor” or “Devil’s Waiting Room” came from the outcrop of strangely formed rocks said to look like monsters waiting for the devil. There were signs of diggings by the Ancients in this whole area. They are attributed to originally having been the work of the Karanga tribe, later followed by a Sotho tribe, thought to have been an offshoot of the Kangonane tribe. The Sothos were later wiped out, or driven out, by Swazi raiding parties who eventually established a military base on the banks of the Ngwenyana River, named Mjindini.

WILD HORSES OF KAAPSEHOOP It is believed that the Kaapsehoop herds are remnants of British troops stationed here during the South African War, but the acceptable theory is that they were left to the wild when the Kaapsehoop police station was shut down here many years ago, to make way for motorised transport.

Although these herds do not have to contend with the extreme conditions that the Namibian strain do, they suffer from horse sickness, prevalent in this area: at times numbering over 200 horses, they keep getting

17

Adam’s Calendar

Adam’s Calendar

thinned out in the wet summers. This seems to occur mainly at lower altitudes than the village, which means the horses have to stay in Kaapsehoop in order to survive. It is evident that some of the animals have a certain resistance to horse sickness and have been adapted as riding mounts over the years.

Herds range in size from bachelor herds of around 3 to larger more structured herds of 15 to 20 horses. They are enjoyed by visitors and locals alike and share a protective interest by the residents of Kaapsehoop. Visitors can be seen staring at the horses for hours in amazement just watching them wild and free, roaming around.

ADAM’S CALENDAR - NEAR KAAPSEHOOP Southern Africa holds some of the deepest mysteries in all of human history. What we are told is that at around 60,000 years ago the early humans migrated from Africa and populated the rest of the world. A new discovery of an ancient circular monolithic stone calendar site in Mpumalanga has proven to be at least 75,000 years old, pre-dating any other structure found to date. One of South Africa’s unresolved mysteries is “Adam’s Calendar” near the beautiful town of Kaapsehoop. The calendar itself is shrouded in mystery and its origins and purpose have not yet been fully explained. One thing is certain though, this is not a natural feature in the landscape.

It is estimated that there are over 100, 000 ancient stone ruins scattered throughout the mountains of southern Africa. Artefacts that have been recovered from these ruins show a long and extended period of settlement that spans to over 200,000 years. The most spectacular examples of these ancient ruins are within walking distance. Modern historians have been speculating about the origins of these ruins, often calling them ‘cattle kraal of little historic importance’.

Scientific inspection shows that we actually know very little about these spectacular ancient ruins. It is a great tragedy that thousands have already been destroyed through sheer ignorance but forestry and farmers have now started to protect these ruins. Adam’s Calendar is the flagship among these ruins because we can date this monolithic calendar with relative certainty to at least 75,000 years of age based on a number of scientific evaluations.

Adam’s Calendar also presents the first tangible evidence of consciousness among the earliest humans in the ‘Cradle of humankind’. The site is built along the same longitudinal line as Great Zimbabwe and the Great Pyramid. It is also aligned with the rise of Orion’s belt some 75,000 years ago. From an elevated viewpoint two monoliths standing upright in the centre of the stone configuration align perfectly with the Eastern and Western compass points.

Adam’s Calendar is possibly the only example of a functional, mostly in-tact monolithic stone calendar in the world. The founder of Adam’s Calendar, Johan Heine, noted the shadow of the setting sun on the summer solstice on the 21st December and as the sun sets the shadow slides off the edge, only to resume its path back to the opposite edge where it stops on the winter solstice, the 21st June. Adam’s Calendar is situated in the Blue Swallow Natural Heritage Site, an area which is very popular amongst birders.

18

Sudwala Caves

Sudwala Caves

The Sudwala caves are the oldest known dolomite caves in the world and are one of the premier natural tourist attractions in the beautiful province of Mpumalanga. The Caves are open daily for viewing by guided tours only, which are arranged as visitors arrive. The one-hour tour which is easy for everybody, is a return route with a distance of 1.2km, consisting of a slow walk and a little crawling which is optional. The tour aims to be informative and fun. Along the route the guide will explain various formations seen and points of interest such as the human history of the cave and the feeding habits of bats are some of the topics that would be discussed. A more physically demanding Crystal Tour can also be arranged. This involves crawling through two kilometres of damp and narrow passageways to a cavern filled with Aragonite crystals. These vast caverns are located in the Mankelekele Mountains which are part of the smaller Drakensberg range. There are 6km of passageways and chambers which have been explored and surveyed thus far with no end in sight! A collection of stone-age tools, on display at the entrance shows that the caves were used as a shelter by pre-historic man, Homo Habilus (Handyman), approximately 1.8 million years ago. Excavations and research in this regard is ongoing.

In the nineteenth century the Caves were used by Somquba, a brother of Mswati, the heir apparent to the Swazi throne. An attempt by Somquba to usurp Mswati was thwarted, and he retreated to an area about 10km from the caves. There was continuous conflict between the factions, and at times Somquba and his followers took refuge in the Caves. The principal guardian of the entrance was Sudwala, Somquba’s chief inDuna, whose name is thus commemorated to this day, and whose spirit is legendarily said to linger in the Caves. At one time, Mswati’s soldiers built a massive bonfire at the entrance, in an attempt to smoke Somquba and his followers out, but the natural airflow in the Caves foiled the attack. Traces of the fire are still visible. Biannual modern visits by Somquba’s descendants , accompanied by prayer and traditional beer-drinking ceremonies, continue to this day.

The Caves also featured in the second South African War. Two months before the fall of Pretoria to the British, on 5 June 1900, gold bullion belonging to the Transvaal Republic was sent for safekeeping to Machadodorp.

This bullion, plus State treasure in gold sovereigns, accompanied President Kruger to Waterval Onder. The President travelled onto Lourenco Marques, via Nelspruit (Mbombela), but the treasure did not. The so-called Kruger millions had unaccountably vanished somewhere between Waterval Onder and Nelspruit (Mbombela), because it was known that Boer commandos had hidden ammunition in the Sudwala Caves, many people believed that they were also the most likely hiding place for the legendary fortune. After the war, many searched for it, but it has never been found.

Of special interest in the Caves, are the fossilized colonies of Stromatolites, a primitive blue-green algae which were alive when the earth’s atmosphere consisted mainly of nitrogen and carbon-dioxide. Floating on the surface of the warm shallow seas which existed in this area 2000 million years ago, these algae converted the carbon-dioxide into oxygen by means of photosynthesis and were largely responsible for creating an atmosphere suitable for the higher forms of life we know today. There is a steady current of fresh air in the caves which is very pleasant and keeps the temperature a constant 17 degrees all year round. The largest cavern in the sequence of the Sudwala Caves has been named the P R Owen hall, named after the man who

19

Sudwala Caves

Sudwala Caves

developed and opened the caves as a tourist attraction in 1965. This amphitheatre which can comfortably seat 350 people, has excellent acoustics and is used for concerts by visiting choirs and orchestras. In the section of the caves that is open to tourists is a huge dripstone formation so powerful and dominant that it fills one with awe. It is appropriately named the Screaming Monster. It is highly possible that this formation was worshipped by pre-historic man! The Screaming Monster is today honoured by modern man in the form of athletes who come to Sudwala every year to run the “Race of the Screaming Monster”, which is a 21km half-marathon, part of which goes through the caves. It is an amazing experience to do this race, being the only one of its kind in the world! Entry is by pre-booking only and limited to 250 runners.

The Garra Rufa foot spa, adjacent to the Caves’ entrance, has outdoor ponds, where visitors can enjoy panoramic views whilst dangling their feet in the water, in which schools of little ‘doctor fish’ nibble away any roughness or imperfections in the skin.

Currently about 60 000 people visit the caves each year, of whom about 10 000 are schoolchildren on educational outings, who visit at concessionary rates. Since opening to the public in 1965 the Caves have provided countless visitors with an unforgettable experience: a visit to the world’s oldest caves, one of the few cave systems in Mpumalanga that is still active, and a source of scientific, cultural, recreational and scenic value to the Province.

Sudwala Caves

Sudwala Caves

20

Lone Creek Falls

• SABIE • GRASKOP • PILGRIM’S REST • OHRIGSTAD • LYDENBURG/MASHISHING Thaba Chweu is the jewel in the crown of Ehlanzeni. With so many magnificent natural wonders on offer, visitors would be hard pressed to take it all in during just one visit to this part of the world. Within the municipality’s boundaries are such scenic wonders as the Blyde River Canyon, the world’s largest green canyon (one of the great African natural wonders and the third deepest canyon in the world after the Grand Canyon and Namibia’s Fish Eagle Canyon), with its renowned God’s Window view-site and Bourke’s Luck Potholes, breathtaking waterfalls and quaint towns like Sabie (Winner - Town of the Year - 2012), Graskop and the historic mining village of Pilgrim’s Rest, where early pioneers once dug and panned for gold. The entire town was declared a national monument, with the main street acting as a living museum, and has been preserved so that visitors can travel back in time to the early 1800s when Alec ‘Wheelbarrow’ Patterson first discovered gold deposits in Pilgrim’s Creek, creating a gold rush. Visitors to the area should also take the time to catch the split waterfall Mac Mac Falls, the 45-metre high Berlin Falls and beautiful Three Rondavels - a grouping of three perfectly shaped mountains.

Of course, no trip to Thaba Chweu would be complete without visiting the world famous Kruger National Park (www.krugerpark.co.za). When driving from Thaba Chweu municipality to the Kruger National Park there are two route options, namely Mbombela municipality or Bushbuckridge municipality. Nearly 20 000 square kilometres of open wildlife area makes up the world-famous conservation area, which is unrivalled in the diversity of its wildlife and is a world leader in advanced environmental management techniques and policies.

The municipal capital of Lydenburg/Mashishing is renowed for its trout fishing resorts and is a centre for mining and agriculture.

Three Rondavels

Blyde River Canyon

21

Lone Creek Falls

Lone Creek Falls

Sabie is situated at an altitude of 1 100m above sea level and is surrounded by many natural attractions including the Blyde River Canyon and the Kruger National Park. It is centrally situated for viewing numerous waterfalls, Gods Window, Bourkes Luck Potholes, Sudwala Caves and the historical Pilgrim’s Rest.

The town is situated in a breath-taking valley on the escarpment of the Drakensberg mountain range in Mpumalanga. It is within easy reach by aeroplane with the Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport being less than one hour away. The town is located 360 km east of the Oliver Tambo International Airport (4 hour drive by car) and 64 km west of Kruger National Park. Sabie really is a beautiful little town situated along the renowned Panorama Route and it is an ideal base from which to explore the rich history of the area.

Sabie was originally a farm named Grootfontein (meaning big fountain). In 1880, Henry Thomas Glynn bought it for 600 British pounds and he and his son farmed and became celebrated big-game hunters. The Glynns were renowned for their hospitality and whilst they were entertaining friends in 1895 at a picnic at the Klein Sabie Falls they lined up bottles to use as target practice. The bullets chipped the rock to expose a gold bearing reef.

Crushed and panned samples were tested and the results revealed good gold. This started a gold-rush into the area and this was how the town of Sabie was started. Many indigenous forests were destroyed to supply firewood and mine props. Joseph Brook Shires realized that man-made forests would be necessary. He planted the first commercial trees in 1876 and today Sabie is surrounded by one of the world’s largest man-made forests.

The area has always been malaria-free because of its high altitude. Early pioneers used the area as their base camps when hunting and exploring down into the Lowveld. The local Shangaan people called the river “uluSaba” - “the river of fear” because the river was often in flood and teemed with crocodiles. It is from this Shangaan word that the town’s name, Sabie, was derived.

There are many spectacular views around Sabie with beautiful waterfalls, such as the Sabie Falls, the Bridal Falls, Lone Creek Falls and the Horseshoe Falls. Trout fishing is good and the hiking trails are exciting.

Cork Oak Trees

Cork Oak Trees

22

Sabie Falls

Sabie Falls

Sabie is a tranquil and attractive malaria-free town situated in Mpumalanga and lies in the centre of one of the largest man-made forests in the world. The town is named after the Sabie River which is well known for its fearful crocodiles as well as harsh currents. Sabie originated as another gold rush town, all due to an accidental discovery during a picnic in 1895. A bottle shooting practice revealed gold specks in the rock where the bullets had glanced off. And so the gold rush began … yet, the earliest inhabitants of the eastern escarpment region of Sabie were the Bushmen or San people. This was deduced from the rock paintings, engravings, artefacts and stone tools found in the area. Patches of indigenous forest survive in some of the valleys, and the banks of streams are covered with beautiful wild flowers and ferns.

Forest Industry Museum The Komatiland Forest Industry Museum is located in the centre of town. Visitors can take a self-guided tour for a unique look into the South African forestry history dating back to the origin of forestry to the present day. The exhibits explain how modern technology has influenced the development of forestry over the years and the museum serves as an information centre about the forestry industry in a fun and interactive way.

Cork Oaks Opposite the Post Office several magnificent cork oak trees - planted in 1938 - are a delight to behold. A few of these giants died after the construction of the parking lot and had to be removed. In Portugal the bark of cork trees (Quercus suber) is harvested for the production of cork for wine bottles.

Ceramic Tile Panels The ceramic tile panels at the Post Office date back to 1936. They were created by J. Pope-Fincken and depict the Kruger National Park as it was then.

St. Peter’s Church The Anglican St Peter’s church is across the street from the Standard Bank. The church was designed by Sir Herbert Baker and built in 1913 by a team of Italian stonemasons, under the leadership of Mr Gemignani. The stone was quarried from the local mountains and the original roof was made from Swedish wood shingles. The church is often used for weddings.

23

Graskop’s history started in 1843, with the arrival of the Voortrekkers in the area. In 1838 Louis Trichardt, in search of a port not under British rule, reached Delagoa Bay via a particularly difficult route through the Oliphant’s River Valley. Many lives were lost on this journey due to fever, probably malaria. In 1843 Andries Potgieter - who had just founded Potchefstroom and on the advice of Trichardt - took a more southerly route, which turned out to be virtually impossible. After negotiating what is known as Casper’s Nek Pass (named after Paul Kruger’s father), the party reached the edge of the Drakensberg Escarpment with no possible descent at that point. Leaving the women and children and a few men with strict instructions to return to Potchefstroom if the scouting group had not returned in two months - the men went in search of a way down to the Lowveld 1000m below. Access to the Lowveld was discovered via an animal track on a land under the control of a local chief named Koveni, hence the Afrikaans translation Kowyn, and then onto Delagoa Bay where, for various reasons, the men were delayed. The waiting party, after staying a fortnight longer than instructed, left the river where they had been waiting anxiously and named it “Treurrivier” (River of Sorrow). A few days later the returning men caught up with their womenfolk on the banks of another river, which was promptly named the “Blyderivier” (River of Joy).

Graskop was a farm and so named because of the vast tracts of grassveld and lack of trees in the area it was owned by Abel Erasmus in the year 1850. In later years he became “native commissioner and magistrate” for the entire Lowveld and escarpment region. The local, indigenous people gave this hunter the name “Dubula Duzi”, because he waited until the very last moment before firing at his prey. Gold was discovered all over the region in the 1870’s and the Graskop area was no exception. As recently as 1996, the last of the prospecting “characters” in the area decided to hang up his pan.

A railway line from Nelspruit (Mbombela) through the farm Sabie and onto the farm Graskop began in early 1910. This was completed and ready for the opening ceremony on 18th June 1914. Graskop was declared a town later that same year. By 1918 Graskop had a primary school, church and a store. Talk of the town becoming a vegetable and fruit farming community was not a viable enterprise because of the high rainfall.

Although cattle had been around for some time they prefer not to eat the sour grass of the veld, which together with the permanently wet nature of the veld caused hoof rot. This stopped any idea of cattle or dairy farming on a large scale. Graskop therefore remained predominantly a railway town.

To create as many work opportunities as possible during the depression in the late 1920’s and early 1930’s the government decided to plant trees in the area. Thousands of white men planted the first trees by hand and received a pittance that kept many thousands of loved ones from starving in those dark days. Graskop became a timber town with a little more prosperity than before. By the time the Second World War started, Graskop had a population of 700 people. The town hall had been built and there was a golf course as well as a horseracing track, both of which are no longer in existence today. The one thing that never changed was the constant stream of tourists who were entranced by the region even though the gravel roads of 30 years ago were virtually impassable in the rainy season. Bourke’s Luck Potholes at that time was already a prominent tourist attraction and was spanned by swing bridges and a trip to the Three Rondavels viewpoint was an overnight affair.

24

Curios

Berlin Falls

This scenic route starts along the R532 at the top of Louis Trichardt Ave and is signposted Ohrigstad and goes directly to the Blyde River Canyon. The scenic route R534 is a 15,4km loop along the escarpment and rejoins the R532 at a point of 8.1km from Graskop.

Pinnacle Rock is a tall column of quartzite peppered with bright aloes and bushes. This rock rises 30m above the indigenous forest in the surrounding Driekop gorge. A source of the Ngwaritsana river cascades through the dark depths of the narrow cleft on the right at the head of the gorge.

God’s Window boasts magnificent views across the Lowveld from an altitude of 1730m. Kruger National Park and the Lebombo mountain range are in the distance. God’s Window has a nature reserve that includes a rain forest with pretty aloe gardens interspersed with large outcrops of sandstone that have formed prehistoric shapes over the ages. A trail leads through the rain forest along the escarpment edge towards Wonder View affording panoramic views over a vast expanse of the Lowveld.

Lisbon Falls are a fantastic 95m triple waterfall that tumbles into the dark green pools far below. Lisbon creek is a typical example of an area where early diggers panned for gold. The falls are just three kilometres to the south of the Berlin Falls on the Lisbon River. Between Graskop and the Blyde River Canyon, you travel 2,2km along a gravel road that leads west from the R532. The Lisbon River plunges down a double stream, over a semicircular rock face, 90 metres high. There is a 100 metre footpath leading from the parking area to a vantage point at the base of the falls for a really spectacular view. There are some lovely picnic spots here.

Berlin Falls are close to God’s Window, north of Graskop. This natural wonder can be viewed from a special observation platform. The Watervalspruit plunges down a cliff, 80 metres high into a huge green pool. Berlin Falls is a 10km drive to the north of Graskop, along a tarred road to the west of the R532. Take the turn-off to the Blyde River Forest Station and State Sawmill. Just five kilometres away, on the western side of the R532 is a popular picnic site called Watervalspruit which has a lovely deep pool ideal for swimming. Berlin Falls were named after the farm on which they are situated and are 45m high. They originated as a result of the different weathering of the local rocks. There are some excellent vantage points revealing the entire drop.

Bourke’s Luck Potholes at the meeting place of the Treur and Blyde rivers is one of the most incredible geological phenomena in the country. Water-bourn sand and rocks have ground deep cylindrical potholes into the bedrock of the rivers over millions of years resulting in swirling whirlpools. The potholes are named after Tom Burke who recognised the gold potential of the area. He became involved with the mining enterprise which owned the property. However the main find of gold was not on their property but on the opposite side of the river.

To see these geological wonders that are an amazing array of white, yellow and dark brown eddies of colour because of the soil present in the water, you will need to travel roughly 35 kilometres north of Graskop on the R532. A series of metal bridges take you right above them. If photographs are a high priority, walkways around the ridge allow you various angles and viewpoints from which to take your spectacular snaps.

25

Curios

Ghekko

The Blyde River Canyon lies within the 27,000 hectares of the Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, a 57km belt which runs north of Graskop and along the escarpment. A great variety of vegetation occurs in this area because of the differences in altitude, temperature and rainfall. The high-lying southern section has a high rainfall, extensive grassy slopes, dense areas of rain forest with yellowwood, boekenhout, forest silver trees and ferns.

The central area has mixed Sour Bushveld and thorn trees, while the northern area and foothills are known as the Lowveld Sour Bushveld. The Blyde River Canyon Reserve extends along the Blyde River Canyon’s winding path, which at every turn offers more and more impressive views over sheer edges dropping 800m into the riverbed. The fresh mountain scenery and panoramic views over the Klein Drakensberg escarpment are quite spectacular and give the area its name of ‘Panorama Route’. Viewpoints are named for the spectacle they offer, and God’s Window and Wonder View hint at the magnitude of the scenery. The ‘Pinnacle’ is a single quartzite column rising out of the deep wooded canyon and the ‘Three Rondavels’ (also called ‘Three Sisters’) are three huge spirals of dolomite rock rising out of the far wall of the Blyde River Canyon. Their domed heads are iced in green and their sides are stained with fiery orange lichen. From the ‘Three Rondavels’ you can see the extensive Swadini Dam in the far distance, which marks the end of the reserve.

The geology and climate of this high rainfall plateau results in masses of waterfalls, beautiful to look at and many of which you can visit. Others are hidden deep within some of the largest man-made forestry plantations in the world, with row upon row of pine and eucalyptus trees. The rich and varied plant life is influenced by extreme climate, a range of altitudes and various soil conditions. This variety of plant life supports an equally rich and varied fauna. Klipspringer and dassies find food and shelter in rocky areas. The grassland supports grey rhebuck and the rare oribi as well as rodents, reptiles, seed-eating birds and plenty of insects. Kudu prefer the cover of wooded bushveld and bushbuck and bushpig move amongst the luxuriant growth on the riverbanks.

All five of South Africa’s primates can be seen in the The Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve. The somango monkey, nocturnal greater and lesser bushbabies, chacma baboons and vervet monkeys are all present.

Hippopotamus and crocodile live in and around the rivers and wetlands of Swadini Dam, as do waterbirds and otters. Almost every type of habitat that attracts birds is found in The Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve and all three South African species of Loerie can be found in the reserve.

Lowveld View Site is on a flat rocky mountain top at an altitude of 1219m and appears to be only a little lower than the canyon peaks. Paths lead to the edge of the 16km canyon. The view from here is awesome. The Blyde river below tumbles along the rocky canyon floor winding until it eventually flows into the Blydepoort Dam. Dense vegetation with moss and ferns fill the deep krantzes and the upper rocks are covered with vivid lichen.

Three Rondavels View Site has magnificent views of the well-known peaks of quartzite and shale, known as the three rondavels, with the Blydepoort dam lying far below. The Three Rondavels can be found at the northern end of the mighty Drakensberg Range, standing sentry at one end of the Blyde River Canyon. Shaped like traditional African beehive huts, the Three Rondavels form 3 huge rock spirals rising from the far wall of the canyon.

The mouth of the canyon lies between Swadini and Mariepskop, which was once the scene of a great battle between Swazi raiders from the south and local Bapedi and Mapulana tribesmen, who used the flat crest of the

26

Hammerkop

Pine Trees

mountain as a place of refuge and a fortress whenever they were attacked. The Bapedi and Mapulana tribes became tired of the continual Swazi raids and under the leadership of Chief Maripi Mashile, they climbed to the top of the mountain peak opposite Swadini and bombarded the Swazis with large boulders in what became known as the battle of Moholoholo, ‘the great, great battle’. The Swazis were heavily defeated and thereafter the mountain was named Maripi in honour of the Mapulana chief.

Once known as the Three Sisters, the geological formations known today as The Three Rondavels, are one of the many natural highlights along Mpumalanga’s Panorama Route. South Africans know the rondavel as a traditional beehive-shaped hut built and used over centuries by indigenous people as their homes. The Three Rondavels are spectacular peaks which look exactly like rondavels, round and wide, rising to a peaked top.

When you stand on the viewpoint, 1 380m above sea level with the Blyde River Canyon below, you’ll still be looking up at those 3 distinctive peaks which tower 700m above the surrounding countryside.

These 3 geological formations were also once known as “The Chief and his 3 wives”. The flat-topped peak was named Mapjaneng after a legendary chief who defeated invading Swazis in a great battle. His 3 reputedly troublesome wives gave their names to the 3 pointed peaks, Magabolie, Mogoladikwe and Maseroto. These dramatic rock formations were created when erosion wore away the soft underlying stone, leaving exposed slate and quartzite that formed these shapes. Spectacular African sunsets can be seen at the viewpoint with a dramatic view of the canyon and the Blyde River dam way below.

The Natural Bridge is a phenomenon that was caused by the river weathering away the softer rocks until it exposed the hard quartzite. The river which is a source of the Mac Mac river flows past the old prospecting pits before passing through the natural bridge. Continue on the R532 bearing left at the turn off to Pilgrim’s Rest.

Maria Shires Waterfall is named in honour of pioneer, Maria Shires (Born Taylor) 1814 to 1875, who is buried close by. She was the mother of Joseph Brooke Shires, a pioneer commercial forester of this region who planted the first Eucalyptus and Wattle at Onverwacht (now Brooklands) in 1876. Her daughter, Ann Maria McLachlan was presented with the Burgers Cross by President Burger for her devoted nursing services to the Mac Mac digger community. Her son in law, T McLachlan together with James Sutherland and Edward Buttons discovered the first gold in the region of Spitzkop on the 14th of May 1873. He later found many other valuable minerals in the region. A truly distinguished pioneering family who opened the way for the gold and forestry wealth of today.

Forest Falls are beautiful broad falls, 10m high, on the Mac Mac river and can only be viewed by walking along the 3.5km Forest Falls Nature Trail, which starts at the Green Heritage picnic spot.

Jock of the Bushveld, Mac Mac diggers and Transport Riders Memorial. When prospector, Tom McLachlan acquired the farm, Geelhoutboom, gold was found in every stream and many prospectors followed and were soon busy with shovel, sluice box and pan. This was the richest strike so far and attracted miners from all over the world. Jansen, the Magistrate of Lydenburg visited the diggings and under pressure from experienced diggers, organised a digger’s committee. Jansen suggested that President Burgers should visit the goldfields.

Burgers proved very popular with the naturally suspicious digger community. He spoke excellent English and the diggers had heard that his wife was Scottish. When the President looked over the claim holders, he noticed

27

Mac Mac Falls

Horseshoe Falls

Lone Creek Falls

the predominance of Scottish names, bearing the prefix ‘Mac’ and said “I am going to call this place Mac Mac”.

The role of transport riders, in providing supplies and equipment to the digger communities, should not be overlooked. These transport riders, mostly young men of adventure, were a breed of their own and hauled their wagons and oxen over terrain faced with many hazards and hardships. One of these, Percy Fitzpatrick, later became a well known South African politician and author of the book “Jock of the Bushveld”.

Mac Mac Falls were declared a National Monument on the 18th of February 1993. Cement pathways and stone steps with safety railings have been built to gain access to the beautiful view points, from where the two cascades plunge into the deep chasm, with the river twisting 65m below. The Mac Mac diggers were responsible for re-arranging the face of the earth a little, by changing the single waterfall into the double waterfall as we see it today when gold miners blasted it with dynamite to divert the river in an attempt to work the rich gold-bearing reef over which it plunges.

Mac Mac Pools is a popular picnic area, shaded by a clump of trees on the edge of the shallow rocky river, which drops into a series of rock pools. There are shelters, braai facilities, toilets, picnic spots and a nature walk. The nature walk works its way to the base of the Mac Mac falls, providing magnificent views of the falls from below.

Sabie River Gorge and Falls are situated under the new Sabie bridge which was built to blend in with the natural attraction of the gorge. There is parking for the view site on the right before crossing the bridge. A short walk through the Williams Memorial Gardens takes one to the view points overlooking the gorge down which the Sabie river plunges 73m.

Bridal Veil Falls which resemble a bride’s veil, can be reached by taking the old Lydenburg road. It is advisable to park on the rise and follow the rough track to the left beyond the stream. This track winds through thick vegetation up to the falls which drop 70m into the centre of an amphitheatre at the head of the valley.

Horseshoe Falls are situated 4km on a signposted gravel road off the Old Lydenburg Road. The cascade type falls form a perfect horseshoe when the river is in flood and have been declared a National Monument. This is also the site of one of the first sawmills in Sabie.

Lone Creek Falls are situated 9km from Sabie on the old Lydenburg road. A lovely short walk of 200m through the thick vegetation of the gorge reaches a pool, into which a slender cascade of water plunges over a ledge from a height of 68m. The falls have been declared a National Monument.

The Long Tom Pass which links Sabie with Lydenburg, is one of the most spectacular mountain passes in the country, With a summit of 2169m, it is one of the highest major roads in South Africa. From Sabie the road climbs more than 1000m before descending 670m to Lydenburg. The road sweeps over sharp climbs and descents and it is difficult to imagine that this pass was once a fearsome natural obstacle. It was also the scene of a running battle between the Boers and the English in September 1900. A replica of a Long Tom canon stands in the pass, reminding visitors that the pass was named after the Long Tom canons used in the battle there during the Anglo-Boer War (1899-1902).

28

Long Tom Pass

Royal Hotel Pilgrim’s Rest

Originally used as the route for wagon drivers travelling between Mozambique and Lyndenburg, the Pass was treacherous, with steep hairpin bends and incredible descents - not to mention the malaria and sleeping sickness that bedevilled these trips - and wild animals that preyed on the oxen.

Today however, as you travel on the new tarred road, you will still see the old road twisting over its dangerous course but the danger is no longer present. This area is now rich in vegetation like eucalyptus and pine trees as far as the eye can see. The scene is dominated by the peaks of Mount Anderson and Mauchsberg making it quite a beautiful route to drive along.

Pilgrim’s Rest is a small town in Mpumalanga which has been declared a national monument. In the 1840’s the world was gripped with gold fever, when large quantities of this precious metal were discovered in California.

The history of the Mpumalanga gold fields date back to ancient times, when unknown miners worked the quartz reefs for gold. Traces of their mining activities can still be seen all over the Northern Province and Zimbabwe. The first gold rush in South Africa took place in February 1873 when payable gold was discovered

by McLachlan, Parsons and Valentine on the farm Geelhoutboom.

President Burgers visited the goldfields and gave the digger’s camp the name Mac Mac and declared the area the New Caledonia Gold Fields. One of the Mac Mac diggers, Alec ‘wheelbarrow’ Patterson, left the area to prospect further afield. Patterson found rich gold deposits in the Pilgrim’s Creek. He kept his discovery a secret, but soon afterwards another digger, William Trafford, also discovered alluvial gold in the creek. The news of this rich strike triggered the first major gold rush in South Africa. Pilgrim’s Rest was declared a gold field on the 22nd of September 1873.

The first decade after proclamation, mining activities centred mainly on the recovery of alluvial gold. Gold was recovered from the streams and the banks of the river and creeks by means of sluice-boxes and cradles. An estimated amount of R2 million worth of gold had been removed during the first seven years of gold mining in the Pilgrim’s Rest Valley.

The Gold Commissioner moved his office to Pilgrim’s Rest and by the end of 1873, there were approximately 1500 diggers working 4000 claims in and around Pilgrim’s Rest. The valley was rich in gold and big finds were also found at Starvation Gully, Peach Tree Creek, Brown’s Hill, Poverty Creek, Golden Point and Breakneck Gully.

Pilgrim’s Rest was the social centre of the diggings and a busy community in 1874-1875, consisting of the Upper, Middle and Lower Camps. The petering out of the alluvial deposits and the outbreak of the Sekukuni War (1876-1879) resulted in the decline of the goldfields although for some time the Pilgrim’s Rest diggings caused much excitement in South Africa. After the First Anglo-Boer War (1880-1881) the reinstated Republican government instituted a policy of granting concessions to individuals and companies, in an effort to stimulate industries.

29

In 1881, David Benjamin, a London financier, obtained the mining rights concession on the farms Ponieskrantz (on which Pilgrim’s Rest is situated), Ledovine, Waterhoutboom, Driekop, Grootfontein and Belvedere. Benjamin compensated the remaining diggers and formed The Transvaal Gold Exploration and Land Company. In 1895 various smaller companies amalgamated with the above company and in 1896 the Transvaal Gold Mining Estates (TGME) was formed. The history of the TGME at Pilgrim’s Rest is one of fluctuating production, an average of 300,000 tons of ore per annum was mined in the period 1930-1950, in the fifties ore production fell to an average of 50,000 tone per year, sub-quality ore, unstable ground, scarcity of labour and floods were but some of the problems that the TGME had to deal with at Pilgrim’s Rest. In 1972 the TGME closed down Beta mine, the last operational mine at Pilgrim’s Rest. Since 1974 Pilgrim’s Rest has been managed by the Provincial Administration as a living museum.

Pilgrim’s Rest was officially proclaimed a gold field on 22nd September 1873 and the scatter of tents and elementary shacks soon grew into a flourishing little village complete with sturdy brick houses, shops, churches, canteens, a newspaper and the well-known Royal Hotel. Within a year there were 21 stores, 18 canteens, 3 bakeries and all sorts of other interesting establishments. Interestingly, the diggers called it Pilgrim’s Rest because here, at long last, after so many failed dreams they had truly found their home.

Gold Panning is still supported today and practiced by people from all races, genders and ages. There is plenty to do and experience in Pilgrims Rest. From exciting curio and craft shops to fascinating historical sights, one can never be bored. Interesting historical sites include old church buildings, namely Sacred Heart Church, St Mary’s Church, Methodist Church and Dutch Reformed Church, Dredzen Shop and House Museum, Historic Cemetery, Joubert Bridge, Digging Museum & Gold Panning and the Printing Museum.

There is an abundance of gorgeous arts and crafts shops where one can purchase pottery, stained glass, weaving, hot glass and even custom crockery. Other exciting activities include horse riding, bird watching, hiking, mountain biking and golfing.

ROBBERS PASS Drive to Pilgrim’s Rest and cross over the Joubert Bridge in Downtown Pilgrim’s and follow the R533 road to the top of Robbers Pass (12km from Pilgrim’s). This road follows the same route that the stage coaches and transport wagons travelled to and from Pilgrim’s Rest. Not only does the road to Robbers Pass offer some breathtaking views, it is also steeped in history.

In 1899 two masked and armed highwaymen held up the stage coach and robbed it of £10,000 worth of gold but they were never brought to justice. The second robbery happened in exactly the same spot 13 years later in 1912. The number 13 must have been an unlucky one for the robber, Tommy Dennison, for not only was his horse recognised but he also paid off his debts in town with the looted silver. Tommy was arrested and sentenced to jail for five years. He returned to Pilgrim’s Rest as a local celebrity to start the Highwayman’s Garage.

Be on the lookout for the “Jock of the Bushveld” way mark on the pass. It testifies to the fact that transport riders like Percy Fitzpatrick and his now famous dog “Jock” also used this route. As you drive up Robbers Pass, also

30

keep an eye for a herd of wild horses on the right-hand side of the road on the Morgenzon plantation. If you do spot them consider yourself very fortunate, as they are seldom seen. These horses originated from breeding studs near Dullstroom where horses were bred for the stage coaches that serviced Pilgrim’s Rest and Natal from Pretoria. During the Anglo-Boer War these horses were rounded up one day and used by the Boer forces, under Commandant Muller, in a night stampede on the 1st Liverpool Regiment of the British army. After the stampede the scattered horses, over time, migrated to Kaapsehoop, a village near Nelspruit (Mbombela), and to the Morgenzon area above Pilgrims Rest.

MOUNT SHEBA NATURE RESERVE Mount Sheba lies nestled in amongst mountain peaks just above the pretty historical town of Pilgrim’s Rest. It covers 1110 hectares of land that need at least a day to explore. The landscape includes steep hillsides covered in dense afromontane forest in the upper reaches, with thorny thicket on the lower slopes, river valleys and gardens. Scenically, it is a stunning reserve. The upper slopes of the reserve that give way to open grassland are covered in beautiful examples of Protea, and these, together with an array of imposing rocky outcrops and boulders, attract birds such as the African cuckoo hawk, the forest canary, the Africa emerald cuckoo, Cape eagle-owl, blue-mantled crested flycatcher and Gurney’s sugarbird.

The gardens at Mount Sheba are an excellent source of not only birds, such as the malachite sunbird, but pretty flowering plants, fruit trees and open lawns that are a perfect space, particularly early mornings, to catch sight of the southern double-collared sunbird and the Knysna turaco. The plant life in the reserve is equally tantalising and rare plants such as the clivia caulescens, gladiolus varius and disa extinctoria are well worth uncovering.

Animals at Mount Sheba include the oribi, klipspringer and African wild cat.

Beautiful Mount Sheba Nature Reserve is extremely popular amongst bird lovers and is regarded as one of Mpumalanga’s premier forest-birding destinations. The reserve is privately owned, but is open to the public many of whom use the particularly good series of walking trails to set their sights on a particularly unique set of birds.

Ohrigstad is known as the gateway to the Panorama Route and is the oldest town along this sheltered valley on the R36. Ohrigstad was founded in 1845 by Hendrik Potgieter, the well-known Voortrekker leader. The town was plagued by malaria mosquitoes and therefore abandoned in 1848. Ohrigstad was only resettled in the 1900’s when the malaria plague was controlled. Today Ohrigstad is a malaria-free zone. Relics of Iron and Stone Age civilizations found in the area indicate that the Pedi and San groups lived here thousands of years ago.

Engineers built an unobtrusive dam wall at the point where the swift-flowing Blyde River is joined by the Ohrigstad River, to form the Blyde Dam. Wildlife in the canyon area is varied. There are mountain reedbucks on the escarpment, dassies on the canyon walls, hippo and crocodile in the Blyde Dam as well as impala, kudu, blue wildebeest, waterbuck and zebra on the Lowveld plain near the canyon’s mouth.

31

Zebra

Lydenburg Heads

Another fascinating ecological site in the area are the Echo Caves, discovered in the 1920’s. These are some of the oldest caves in the world and were declared a Historical Monument. Ohrigstad boasts stunning natural scenery, a moderate climate and a tranquil environment.

Ohrigstad is mainly a farming community and a diverse range of crops are produced, such as maize, beans, fruit and paprika. An abundance of activities in the scenic Ohrigstad valley combined with the panorama route make for the ideal weekend break away. Fly-fishing, game viewing, horse riding, hiking and many other popular and exciting activities abound in this area.

OHRIGSTAD DAM NATURE RESERVE This reserve lies between the town of Ohrigstad and the historical village of Pilgrim’s Rest. Ohrigstad Dam Nature Reserve is situated on the edge of the Greater Drakensberg Escarpment, 2 500 hectares of beautiful mountain scenery surrounds the Ohrigstad dam and makes for a tranquil and almost magical getaway.

What makes Ohrigstad Dam Reserve even more attractive to day visitors is a pretty, shady picnic site at the far end of the dam surrounded by mountains. The dam offers outstanding fishing opportunities, and yellowtail, carp, tilapia and catfish are numerous, and canoeing and rowing are also popular pastimes.

The Ohrigstad Dam Nature Reserve lies roughly 10 kilometres from the turnoff to the Ohrigstad Dam on the R533 en route to Pilgrim’s Rest. There is a prolific bird life, and there are a number of large mammals in the reserve. Sightings of mountain reedbuck, bushbuck, grey rhebok, brown hyena and the little South Africa hedgehog are not uncommon.

Lydenburg was founded in 1850 by the Voortrekker leader Andries Potgieter who had abandoned their first settlement, Ohrigstad. It was once the capital of its own independent republic and still has some of the best preserved Zuid Afrikaanse and old Transvaal architecture in the country. Lydenburg, which means “place of suffering” was founded by these pioneering Voortrekkers who were fleeing malaria and the debilitating heat of lower lying areas in the early 1800’s. Although Lydenburg was healthier, marauding Bapedi armies under the leadership of Kgosi Sekhukhune fought a series of bloody pitched battles with the settlers. Monuments commemorating this can still be seen in the area. Lydenburg was one of several republics established in the Transvaal because of dissention among the early Voortrekker leaders. In 1856 Lydenburg withdrew from the Transvaal Republic and joined the Republic of Utrecht. In 1860 both these republics rejoined the Transvaal Republic. Early Transvaalers attempted to find a route to Delagoa Bay and a port free of British control.

Alluvial gold was discovered in the district by several prospectors on 6 February 1873 and the Lydenburg goldfields were proclaimed three months later. Among the first finds were two large nuggets: Emma (765kg) and Adeliza (737kg), both bought by President TF Burgers. The Spekboom River is still being panned for alluvial gold.

32

Long Tom Canon

Lydenburg is an important farming centre and has some of Mpumalanga’s best museums detailing the mysterious history of the famed Lydenburg Heads, which are unique pottery masks believed to have served a ritual or religious purpose, made by extinct people centuries ago. The Lydenburg heads are one of the earliest known forms of African sculpture in Southern Africa. Replicas of the seven terracotta ‘Lydenburg heads’ found in the valley of the Sterkspruit and dating to the 5th century are to be found at the local museum. Six of the heads are human and the seventh is some kind of animal replica.

A British garrison under Lt. WH Long was stationed at Lydenburg during the Transvaal’s first war against Britain (1880 - 1881). They built a small fort named Mary, after the commanding officer’s wife. It was from this fort that the 94th regiment marched to Pretoria to join the main British forces, but they never reached their destination.

To counter the two small field guns used by the Transvaalers, the British fashioned a gun of their own from a water barrel of a water pump which managed to hurl cannon balls of 1kg at the enemy. After the war the fort fell into a state of dilapidation and in 1889 some of its stones were used to build a powder magazine which still stands today.

LYDENBURG ATTRACTIONS Gustav Klingbiel Nature Reserve and Lydenburg Museum The reserve is named in honour of the late Gustav Klingbiel, a former Lydenburg Town Council member, who campaigned to have the area declared as a nature reserve. The Gustav Klingbiel Nature Reserve is situated on the eastern side of Lydenburg along the scenic Long Tom Pass to Sabie and is one of the most beautiful holiday destinations in the world. One of the main attractions in Gustav Klingbiel Reserve is its fascinating bird watching opportunities. About 320 bird species have been recorded in the reserve and its vicinity and several game species such as Bushbuck, Kudu, Impala, Zebra, Eland, Grey Rhebuck and Steenbok also occur in the reserve.

The reserve is 2200 hectares and the Klipgatspruit cuts the mountainous area into a deep valley. The main habitats include thornveld and bushveld on the low-lying areas, and montane grassland on hillsides and plateaux with protea woodland on the higher altitudes. Small isolated pockets of forest are present in the ravines that are tributaries of the Klipgatspruit.

Along the Long Tom Pass, scenic views of montane grassland with mountainous gorges and cliffs can be seen while small sprouting areas of Silver protea can be seen along the road and large concentrations of common Sugarbush can be spotted on mountain plateau. At the entrance to the reserve on the Long Tom Pass, there is a museum with an auditorium for conferences, an open exhibition and a curio shop. The museum has a very interesting exhibit about the town’s history and history of the archaeological Stone Age sites, giving you plenty to do on your trip to the Gustav Klingbiel Reserve. The Gustav Klingbiel Reserve is absolutely stunning with marvellous views, fantastic sights and provides an opportunity for relaxation on an unequalled scale.

Long Tom Pass - R37 east of Lydenburg The spectacular Long Tom Pass is 55.6km long and at 2150m above sea level is one of the highest tarred roads in South Africa. Mount Anderson, named after the two landsurveying brothers, H.M. and W.A.B. Anderson is 2285m above sea level and the highest peak on the Mauchsberg. The Pass was named after the Long Tom guns used by the Boers during the Anglo Boer War 1899-1902 against the British. From 8th to 10th September

33

Zebra

1900, 2,000 Boers, under the leadership of Commandant General Louis Botha successfully retreated from a strong British advance of 12,000 troops led by General Sir Redvers Buller. The ‘Long Toms’ manufactured in France by the Creusot factory were initially purchased by Paul Kruger for use at the Forts in Pretoria but were converted to field guns during the war in 1899-1902. Each gun weighed 2489kg and a shell 43kg with a range of 10060m. A replica of the gun can be seen at Devil’s Knuckles.

Mauchsberg - R37 Long Tom Pass The mountain range was named after a famous German teacher and geologist, Karl Mauch (1837-1878), who prospected and mapped the area in the 1870’s. A fascinating account of Mauch’s southern African travels has been edited and translated by F.O. Bernhard from letters and reports written by the explorer, who suffered many hardships and difficulties during his travels.

Potato Seed Production - R37 Long Tom Pass Situated on the Drakensberg mountain slopes 17km from Lydenburg, on the Long Tom Pass, the company, Potato Seed Production, produces its uniformly high quality potato seed. Located 2154 metres above sea level, in an outstanding micro-climate, the farm is situated ideally for the production of seed potatoes. The potato seed product range include tissue cultured plantlets, early generation greenhouse planting material (GO) (also referred to as greenhouse or minitubers) as well as G1 and G2 material.

This historic farm was initially established and legislated by the Potato Board in 1971, as South Africa’s first nucleus seed potato production unit. The unit was privatized in 1994 and continues to be managed by members of the Mellet family. Apart from potatoes, farming with Merino sheep and Bonsmara cattle also exists, adding value and atmosphere to the farm. Potato seed production also produces grass bales that are used and sold as animal feed. Breathtaking views, populated by unique fauna and flora and wildlife that includes the rare blue crane makes the farm a unique experience. Game includes zebra, red hartebeest, eland, blesbok, oribi, springbok and reedbuck. Hunting can be arranged but bow hunting is preferred. Visits to the farm are strictly by appointment and must be arranged well in advance.

Lydenburg Waterfall - off the R36 north of Lydenburg The Lydenburg Waterfall, 16km north-east of the town in the Dorps river, consists of 3 waterfalls in one. It is regarded as one of the most spectacular waterfalls in Mpumalanga. Two of the falls lie next to each other and plunge into a deep pool which feeds the third fall. The hydro electric power station, belonging to the municipality, is situated at the foot of the two falls. The total height of the 3 falls together is 244 metres. The gate is open from 09h00 to 16h00.

Steenkamp Bridge - on the R36 north of Lydenburg Situated approximately 11km north of the town on the road to Ohrigstad and slightly upstream of the present Schalk Burger Bridge across the Spekboom River. The bridge was opened on 21 June 1897 and was still in use in 1965. It originally had steel railings supported by 2 stone abutments. The bridge is named after Helgard P. Steenkamp, a member of the Executive Committee of the 2nd Parliament and Commandant of the Lydenburg Commando. During the Anglo-Boer War 1899-1902, the steel railings were partially destroyed by Commandant General Ben Viljoen when he attempted to blow up the bridge to prevent the British from being able to cross the

34

Voortrekker Graves

Spekboom river. In 1903 the bridge was rebuilt with stone and renamed the Spekboom Bridge. In 1973 it was declared a national monument and given its historically correct name viz Steenkamp Bridge.

Jock of the Bushveld Memorial - at Krugerspos on the R36 Jock of the Bushveld by Percy Fitzpatrick, is one of the most delightful tales to come out of the Lowveld region.

He was the runt-of-the-litter, his mother was a bull-terrier but his father was of unknown lineage. Constant companion to his young owner, adventure and fortune seeker Percy Fitzpatrick, the memorial at Krugerspos is but one of many along the route taken by Jock and his owner. It was at Krugerspos that Jock had the famous encounter with a baboon at Seedlings store with Jock being the ultimate victor! The door of Seedlings store was salvaged and taken to the Jock of the Bushveld private lodge in the Kruger National Park - it should be the door between the kitchen and dining room.

Voortrekker Graves - on the R555 near Ohrigstad Between 1846 and 1849 the dreaded malaria fever accounted for numerous deaths in the Ohrigstad valley. A memorial was erected in 1938 when the remains of a number of the Voortrekkers were reinterred. Among the names on the memorial is that of J.J. Burger, first secretary of the Volksraad. On 10 October 1942 remains of a number of Voortrekkers who had been previously buried on farms in the area were reburied in the cemetery under a concrete replica of an oxwagon tent.

Old Fort - on the R555 between Burgersfort & Ohrigstad - not marked Remains of a blockhouse built during the Anglo-Boer war 1899-1902.

Grave of Colour Sgt. John Pegg 29.10.1878 - on the R555 near Steelpoort - not marked off main road and bronze plaque has been removed from headstone.

In October, 1878, four Companies of the 1/13th Regiment Prince Albert’s Light Infantry under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel P.E.V. Gilbert, together with Colour-Sergeant Pegg and, including elements of the Royal Artillery, Mounted Infantry and some native formations, all under the overall command of Colonel H. Rowlands, VC. set out to destroy Sekhukhune’s Stronghold, in the Leoulu Mountains. Initial attempts to reduce the Stronghold were not successful and the Force withdrew. On 27 October 1878, the Force gained limited success at an Action fought at Shobiyane’s Homestead, situated on Magnet Heights, a southern spur of the Leoulu Mountains, overlooking the west bank of the Steelpoort River and shielding the heartland of Sekhukhune’s Territory, but again failed to bring down the BaPedi Chief. Colour-Sergeant Pegg was wounded by gunshot in the thigh. His leg was amputated, but unfortunately, he died of his wounds the following day, 28 October 1878 and was buried in a lone grave outside the Regimental bivouac. He was the first British soldier to be killed in action on Transvaal soil.

Geological Exposure : Dwars River - off the R555 travelling towards Maartenshoop Part of the Bushveld Igneous Complex. This occurrence consists of sharply defined layering of UG-1 chromite (dark) in anortosite (white to grey) at the Dwars River near Steelpoort. The layers, not simply superposed, merge and split, always opening toward the west, is a spectacular sight for layman and geologists.

35

Iron Age Tools

Memorial to the Capture of Ben Viljoen 25.01.1902 - on the R37 west of Lydenburg Viljoen had travelled from Pilgrims Rest to the Steenkampsberg area to encourage the itinerant Boer Government to join him at Pilgrims Rest. Fortunately, the Government decided against travelling back with Viljoen. From intelligence received the Royal Irish Regiment lay in ambush for Viljoen. Two of his adjutants were killed in the attack. Viljoen was sent to St. Helena never to return to this country. Fortunately, while imprisoned he wrote a very good account of his experiences during the Anglo-Boer war called My Reminiscences of the Anglo Boer War. Rock Engravings - Boomplaas (Trust Property) - off the R37 west of Lydenburg on private property These engravings have been here for thousands of years and are not of only one period.

Old Cemetery - Kwena Basin - off the R36 just north of the Kwena dam The most poignant graves are those of the men from Strathcona’s Horse who were killed while setting up an outpost shortly after General Sir Redvers Buller entered the valley, September 1900. Strathcona’s Horse, nicknamed the Queen’s Cowboys, was a privately funded Canadian Regiment and one, Sgt. Brothers, an only child, had travelled 900km across the ice, from the Yukon to Skagway, to join up and fight against the Boers.

Steenkampsberg - R577 The Steenkampsberg Pass, completed in 1988 links Lydenburg and Roossenekal and is the highest Pass in Mpumalanga at 2250m above sea level. The Steenkampsberg was named after six Voortrekkers with the Steenkamp surname who settled there during 1847 and 1851 on adjacent farms.

Mapoch’s Caves - off the R577 Part of the Bothasberg, they are a mass of rocks, caves, clefts, passages and ancient ruins. Njabel and Mampuru took refuge in the caves and were difficult to dislodge during the 1882 war against the Transvaal Republic forces. But they were finally captured and Mampuru was hung for his part in the murder of Sekhukhune, who had been released from prison in 1881. Njabel’s death sentence was commuted to 15 years. The caves have been declared a national monument.

Elandspruit Battle Site 19.12.1901 - on the R540 to Dullstroom On 18 December 1901, Colonel Park left Lydenburg for the fort at Witklip West where he over-nighted before continuing into Dullstroom. Bivouacking the next night at Elandspruit, the camp was attacked by the Boers. The Boers had been given strict instructions to attack but not to rush the camp. Sadly one Boer commander was too eager and in rushing the British camp several Boers were killed. The British casualties from the Manchester Regiment are buried close to where the bivouac was and the memorial to the Boers is just across the road.

Verloren Valei - World Wetland Site - on the De Berg road off the R577 or R540 A botanist’s dream after the first rains with the profusion of veld flowers and also home to the blue, wattled and crowned cranes.

Grootsuikerboschkop Nature Reserve / Military Cemetery 1899-1902 - on the R540 at Dullstroom Contact Bronwen Telephone (office hrs): 013 254-0020 or 013 254-0251

36

ORIGIN OF THE LYDENBURG HEADS A boy of more or less 10 years of age named Ludwig von Bezing first saw pieces of the now famous Lydenburg heads in 1957 while playing in the veld on his father’s farm near Lydenburg. Five years later von Bezing developed an interest in archaeology and went back to where he first saw the shards. Between 1962 and 1966 he frequently visited the Sterkspruit valley where he unwittingly collected pieces of the seven clay heads. Von Bezing joined the archaeological club of the University of Cape Town where he studied medicine. He took his finds to the university at the insistence of the club. He had not only found the heads, but potsherds, iron beads, copper beads, ostrich eggshell beads, pieces of bones and millstones. Archaeologists of the University of Cape Town and the University of the Witwatersrand, Prof. Ray Innskeep and Dr Mike Evers excavated the site where von Bezing found the remains. This site and in particular its unique finds (heads, clay masks) instantly became internationally famous and was henceforth known as the Lydenburg Heads site.

Two larger heads and five smaller ones make up the Lydenburg find. The heads are made of the similar clay used in making household pottery. It is also made with the same technique. The smaller heads display the modelling of a curved forehead and the back neck as it curves into the skull. Around the neck of each of the heads, two or three rings are engraved horizontally and are filled in with hatching marks to form a pattern. A ridge of clay over the forehead and above the ears indicates the hairline. On the two larger heads a few rows of small clay balls indicate hair decorations. The mouth consists of lips and the smaller heads also have teeth.

The seventh head has the snout of an animal and is the only head that represents an animal. The original Lydenburg Heads are on display at the National Museum in Cape Town. The reason for this is that the artifacts are a national treasure and other excavated material found at the Lydenburg Heads site was probably curated by this institution.

Two of the clay masks are large enough to probably fit over the head of a child, the other five are approximately half that size. The masks have both human and animal features, a characteristic that may explain that they had symbolic use during initiation and other religious ceremonies. Carbon dating proved that the heads date to approximately 490 AD and were made by Early Iron Age people. These people were Bantu herders and agriculturists and probably populated Southern Africa from areas north-east of the Limpopo river. Similar ceramics were later found in the Gustav Klingbiel Nature Reserve and researchers believe that they are related to the ceramic wares (pottery) of the Lydenburg Heads site relating to form, function and decorative motive. This sequence of pottery is formally known as the Klingbiel type pottery.

37

Paragliding

• BARBERTON • eMJINDINI • FAIRVIEW • SHEBA • CONSORT & AGNES MINES • VERULUM The municipal capital, Barberton, is a historic town and is home to South Africa’s first gold mining industry, which started in 1884 and led to the establishment of the country’s first stock exchange. However, with the discovery of gold in the Witswatersrand area (now Gauteng), Barberton was soon a case of boom and bust as many people moved for richer pickings. Thankfully the local municipality has stepped in to promote the town as a tourist attraction in its own right.

The area has a unique 3,5 billion year history recorded in the numerous geological heritage and fossil sites, which record the earliest known forms of life and give tourists a feel of what life was like in the stone ages.

Another interesting attraction is the sign posted Heritage Walk, which takes visitors on a tour of Barberton’s historic buildings, landmarks and nine national monuments, including Jock of the Bushveld and the facade of the original De Kaap Stock Exchange - the second stock exchange built in Barberton.

Umjindi is also known as an adventure tourism hotspot and tourists descend on the town in their droves to participate in adventure sports such as paragliding, parasailing, mountain biking, mining tours and the Makhonja Geotrail.

Microlight flights are also available and flights over the valley provide spectacular views of the rugged and beautiful surroundings. Home to the world famous Barberton Daisy, Umjindi is blessed with an abundance of flora and fauna leading to the municipality embarking on a novel project enabling traditional healers to propagate, cultivate and market them.

This area boasts a unique scientific record of the pre-history of the earth. Also referred to as the ‘Genesis of Life’, its geology includes the best preserved truly ancient rocks on earth. Despite the rocks being 3.5 billion years old they are so well preserved that their fossils record the earliest life forms on the planet as well as evidence of the first recorded massive meteorite impact.

The oldest preserved layers of sedimentary and volcanic rocks on Earth are like the pages of a book that can be read and translated in terms of early Earth’s history. There is also a rich history here surrounding the pursuit of hidden gold.

38

Barberton Daisy

Barberton Makhonjwa Geotrail

Barberton is known as the “Gem of the Lowveld” and is situated 350 km east of Pretoria in the picturesque surroundings of the De Kaap Valley. This area is one of the most beautiful wilderness area with ever-changing mountains, pristine savannah, bushveld, indigenous riverine and mountain forest, all intersected by gin clear perennial streams. The plant species diversity is second on the Cape Fynbos with 2 100 different species.

Barberton is a bird watcher’s haven with more than 400 species being recorded here, along with 24 different amphibians and reptiles.

Fred and Henry Barber, in 1884, who were well infected with gold fever set off on a hunting trip in the Valley of the Kaap – and instead of elephant they found gold. They excitedly pegged their claim and on 21st June reported the find to the government. Within days, hundreds of other diggers heard the news of what was known either as Barber’s Reef or the Inkenkisa Reef, from the African name, Nkhenkesa or The Gap, for the ravine in which it was found. Some ten thousand diggers descended on the Kaap Valley. They came from far and wide: the Klondike in Alaska, Cornwall, Ireland, Scotland, California and even Russia, not to mention those from all corners of South Africa.

For a digger’s town, Barberton could hardly have had a more auspicious christening. The reef was rich in gold, the liquor was strong and only prospectors were around to break a bottle of gin and name the place Barberton.

It became a prosperous and probably the rowdiest town in Transvaal. It also became the town famous for flashy, buxom barmaids who were “sold” to the highest bidder for a night. As TV Bulpin described them in his book “Storm over the Transvaal” many of them, including Cockney Liz, “were, like well read books, slightly thumbmarked due to circulation”. It was a town of saloons, as many as one to every 15 people. A rough, tough town that had three newspapers, two stock exchanges (where shares in one mine leapt from £1 to £105 in a day), ten hotels, two clubs and a public house on every corner. It had all this long before the first church or courthouse could be built.

The hectic story of gold in Barberton only lasted some four years, but they were four years packed with dreams, many lost hopes and where shovel merchants probably made the most money of all – provided they did not give credit. Not that the gold has ended in Barberton. The discovery of the Sheba Reef north east of Barberton and bordering Mountainlands was destined to become the most famous gold mine in the world. It was sensational in its richness and became at once the greatest blessing and curse of Barberton. It turned a gold frenzy into utter mania. Yields of twenty ounces to the ton were quite common and by 1898 this wonder mine had returned 519, 565 ounces of gold, valued then at over £2, 000, 000. The discovery also resulted in a fresh flood of racketeers who rushed into the Kaap Valley. Claims were indiscriminately pegged and bogus companies were flooded with lavish capital. New villages sprang up to contain the influx of people. In the centre of the numerous companies on Sheba Hill, an ex-Durban butcher named J. Sherwood established a butchery and hotel in December 1885.

His worn out wife was notoriously the most hideous woman in the Kaap Valley. The diggers knew her as the queen of Sheba; and Sherwood named his hotel in her honour – The Queen of Sheba Hotel. His establishment became the nucleus of what became Eureka City, the ruins of which are today in the northern section of Mountainlands Nature Reserve. Eureka City was probably one of the world’s shortest-lived cities.

39

Queens River Bridge

De Kaap Stock Exchange

Only a few walls of this once flourishing mining town remains in Mountainlands. It was a town, which, at the height of the boom in 1886, held a roaring population of about 650 diggers. It had three stores, three hotels, a dozen canteens, a chemist’s shop, a baker, a racetrack and a music hall. It was a boomtown always noted for its fights. Its climax came in February 1887 when the once celebrated band of thugs, known as The Irish Brigade, took the town over for a hectic week and practically wrecked it. Bars and stores were smashed up and a succession of free fights and assaults took place, until police reinforcements from Barberton broke into the town and arrested four of the principal hooligans. Eureka should have been the South African golden city. The diggers had meant to live in the heart of the mountain ranges with glorious views from every doorstep, but this dream vanished as the gold ran out.

Situated on the edge of Mountainlands, the famous Golden Quarry is a short way down the steep mountain from the crazy road leading from Eureka City’s remnants to Sheba mine, which is now the oldest working gold mine in South Africa. Also known as Bray’s Golden Quarry, its huge silent galleries are eloquent of a golden yesterday when Eureka was alive on the mountain above. This awe-inspiring site was sculptured by hand and portrays a giant underground “Swiss cheese”. It is a man-made wonder worth visiting.

INTERESTING BARBERTON FACTS, FABLES AND LEGENDS Many weird, wild and wonderful legends still remain alive in the mountains and valleys in this corner of the world, once inhabited by people with colourful names such as Charlie Tinker, California Wilson, Yankee Dan, Harry the Sailor, Northern Territory Jack and Canada Joe. There is ample evidence that in ancient times a sizeable population graced this area as can be seen by the collection of stone artifacts found in the region. The San left their paintings on the rocks and Stone Age and Iron Age man is represented here in a rich legacy of relics that are turned up from time to time, such as porcupine quills still carrying evidence that gold dust was carried inside it and used for trade at the east coast.

This is the world where many stories are told about the beautiful, the brave and the ugly: Cockney Liz, Jock of the Bushveld and the “Queen of Sheba”. And the story about the intelligent mule. Harry Culverwell was a digger and apparently the owner of an exceptionally intelligent mule. This animal attended all the diggers’ meetings and used to be a respected “citizen” that knew all the prospector paths as well as the bars in town; and was said to be impervious to sickness. But one day it did become sick, very sick. Sir Harry Graumann offered Culverwell 5 pounds for its chances. Culverwell accepted whereupon the remarkable animal promptly recovered!

Yankee Moore was a shop owner. If any line of goods was in short supply then it was only sold to regular customers; Yankee was no profiteer, he kept his prices as low as possible; a reasonable man he was. One day a newcomer walked into his shop and bought himself two drinks and a new suit. He drank both drinks, put the suit on and then confessed not having any money. Yankee was not impressed! He forced the newcomer to undress right there and then and threatened to get the drinks back via a stomach pump!

Often wondered where the term “rat race” came from? In the late 1800’s “rat races” were held in De Villiers Street in front of the old Transvaal Hotel in Barberton where the diggers would use the rats that they had caught in their dwellings or diggings as “bait” for their dogs to chase. Huge sums of money were gambled on these

40

Jock of the Bushveld

Gold Panning

Mining Tour

races! Great entertainment in a place where there was a pub every mile; twenty-seven pubs between Barberton and Sheba! A route that could take a week to complete; a record that can hold itself anywhere in the world!

A few useful tips when visiting this area: If you encounter a “hanging tree” you know that you are next to the De Kaap River just north of Mountainlands where justice was swift; when you unexpectedly walk into a “cathedral” you are in the Sheba mine, the richest mine the world has ever seen and when you read “Duiwels Kantoor” you know you have arrived in Kaapsche Hoop”.

It was not only Sheba Mine serviced from the fever free Eureka City. Prospectors and diggers all needed accommodation, food, and recreation. There was, a Wood Store, a Lawsons Bakery, Cohens Bottle Store, Cohen and Ernsts Store, a post office, a police post, a race-course and a double tennis court.

Nothing remains of Eureka City 120 years after the beginning except a few yellowing photographs in the archives, ruins on the ground and caverns underground.

The Songimvelo Game Reserve is situated in the rugged Barberton highlands, Songimvelo covers 50 000 ha of grasslands, undulating hills, high mountain peaks, river valleys and deep gorges, and borders Swaziland’s Malolotja Nature Reserve. Game roaming the reserve includes elephant, white rhino, buffalo, giraffe, Burchell’s zebra and a variety of antelope – among them kudu, waterbuck, red hartebeest and impala.

Grassland birds are well represented among the more than 300 bird species recorded to date. The area is rich in history, with archaeological sites dating back over 2 000 years, while relics of the Barberton gold rush of the 1880s can also be seen on South African holidays. Luxury and budget accommodation facilities are available in the reserve.

Visitors to Barberton can soak up the old mining atmosphere of the town by arranging to pan for gold at Noordkaap, 14km out of town. Other activities to keep you busy include going on lovely scenic drives or checking out the 20km cableway from Barberton to the Havelock Asbestos Mine in Swaziland, which is a marvel of engineering. Perfect thermal conditions in the area mean that paragliding is popular and experienced pilots take off from the 425m high Lone Tree hill. Less daring challenges include numerous good hiking trails.

San rock art exists throughout the hills and mountains of the area, and visitors are afforded a glimpse into the lives of these interesting nomads. More modern sites of cultural interest include several buildings of the boom time era that have survived and been proclaimed provincial heritage sites. Some of these nostalgic relics include the fade of the Gold Stock Exchange, the first in South Africa, the Lewis and Marks Building (the first double-storey in town).

Museums in the town include Belhaven House Museum with its interesting displays on geology and mining, Swazi history and general history of Barberton, as well as the Stopforth and Fernlea Houses, two original wood and iron houses, which also contain museums. Another building of historical importance is the 1901 South African (Anglo-Boer) War blockhouse, while a fascinating excursion would be to visit the ruins of Eureka City with a local tour guide. For those tourists interested in local literature, Barberton is well known as

41

Nukain Mabuza Art

Nukain Mabuza Art

“Jock of the Bushveld Town”, and a statue of the terrier can be seen in front of the Town Hall.

NUKAIN MABUZA - ‘OUTSIDER’ ARTIST Born circa 1910, Moamba, Moçambique – Died 1981, Greenstone, near Low’s Creek, SA. Nukain Mabuza is one of the few recognized South African “Outsider” artists. His unique “rock garden” inspired the design of the two Barberton Gateways and associated local tourism branding. Nukain Mabuza’s art evolved over about 15 years of his later life. He decorated his home and its hillside “rock garden” at Revolver Creek, on the Kaapmuiden - Barberton road, with painted patterns and pictograms. Numerous articles and research documents attest to the interest his art has generated.

International recognition has led to photographs of his work being included in a number of books and important art exhibitions in South Africa and the USA. The landscape design of these two intersections invokes the ‘Genesis of Life’ concept, using the double helix of the genetic DNA molecule, in a setting of local indigenous plants. The dolerite rocks, painted by local artists, pay tribute to Nukain Mabuza, who, through his eccentric, even obsessive creativity, achieved so much from very humble circumstances.

THE NUKAIN MABUZA GATEWAYS PROJECT Concepts and principles associated with Batobic’s Nukain Mabuza Gateways Project VISION (Acknowledgement: Dr John FC Clarke) “Nukain Mabuza’s original, visionary environmental art at Revolver Creek has been recognized in South Africa and internationally as an important example of “Outsider Art”. These Barberton Gateways stand as a dynamic and evolving tribute to Mabuza’s work; to his unique talent, dedication and perseverance. As such they will become known and celebrated by local people and visitors alike.

The striking entrance portals welcome you to Barberton and its surrounding geological World Heritage Site.

They will be managed by local enthusiasts and community representatives to popularise this art form and thereby stimulate creativity and heritage awareness, leading to skills development, especially among the young. These sites also celebrate the value and inevitability of change. As they mature they will change, inviting new contributions and adaptations to them, as living cultural heritage sites. Their management will be aimed at encouraging and benefitting specifically those disadvantaged people who engage in activities within the spirit of this vision.”

1. a.

b.

c.

d.

Managing to Achieve the Vision The Gateways design and the painting of these dolerite boulders were inspired by Nukain Mabuza’s art Revolver Creek, but they are original works that are substantially different from those of Mabuza.

The project, its design, and the painted boulders, all pay tribute to Nukain Mabuza, the man and the artist, who’s life’s work has achieved substantial international recognition.

The Barberton Gateways represent an extension of his work, intended to be owned and managed by the people of Barberton / Umjindi, as living, evolving land-art that is a National South African Heritage.

With time it is intended that Mabuza’s heritage in general, and these gateway features in particular, will be managed with full community participation. This proviso is intended to nourish an appreciation and spread of Mabuza’s unique art form, a sense of community pride, and the development of skills and understanding of the role of art in the growth of our Nation.

42

Barberton Makhonjwa Geotrail Impala Elephant

e.

To achieve this vision Mabuza’s heritage will be managed in a participative way, for the nurturing and growth of art and for the benefit of South Africans near and far. These Gateways will be managed held in trust by local enthusiasts and community representatives as living, changing land-art, recognised as an important contribution to local community development.

BARBERTON MAKHONJWA GEOTRAIL The geotrail has been developed to preserve this unique geological heritage through building awareness and interest amongst local stakeholders and tourists - both local and international. It is a matchless geological resource.

Tucked away in the most ancient corner of our land, hard against South Africa’s border with the kingdom of Swaziland, lies a hidden and spectacularly scenic wilderness of immense geological importance.

The Makhonjwa Mountains in Mpumalanga are not well known by their original name, maybe that’s because Swazi folklore has it that pointing at them brings bad luck. Well, things are about to change! A major drive for international recognition, started many years ago and driven by the Barberton Tourism and Biodiversity Corridor (BATOBIC) is finally bearing fruit.

The Barberton Makhonjwa Mountains of the Barberton Greenstone Belt are now on the tentative list of UNESCO’s World Heritage Site programme. The Barberton Makhonjwa geotrail has a series of beautifully landscaped laybys at sites of geological interest and uses richly-illustrated, information-rich panels, conceptualised, compiled and designed by Hamilton-Fynch interpretation consultants, that draw aside the veil of arcane geological communication, and reveal the significance of the Barberton Greenstone Belt in every-day language and concepts.

This geotrail is a bucketlist candidate, and something for everyone from families on leisure breaks, to geology students, to enjoy. The Barberton Makhonjwa Geotrail takes you on a journey into the mists of an impossibly distant past. The Barberton Greenstone Belt is the best-preserved example of a 350 million year sequence of Archaean Earth rocks - of Archaean Earth between about 3.2 and 3.57 billion years ago. The rocks are of three main groups: Onverwacht - some sedimentary but mostly volcanic rocks - 14 km thick Fig Tree - deep-water sedimentary rocks - 7 km thick Moodies - shallow-water sedimentary rocks - 2.5 km thick The rocks are a record of cataclysmic volcanic activity, a boundless ocean, racing tides, immense asteroid impacts and the birth of the first continent - the Kaapvaal Craton - and some of, or perhaps even the earliest, life on Earth. A growing global network of geologists descend annually on Barberton to search for clues to the Archaean eon. Over 30 years of research have helped to define, among other things: the evolution of Earth’s atmosphere; the origins of life; the growth mechanisms of continents and the composition of the earliest oceans. Although rocks of similar age and even older are known from other parts of the world, none combines the outstanding and diverse characteristics of the Barberton Greenstone Belt - a fame more significant and far longer-lasting than its colourful gold-rush past.

43

Explore the Oldest Story in the World - Makhonjwa Geotrail There are totally unique things to do in Barberton. Many will be hitting the trail on their mountain bikes. The biggest tourism development here for many years is the Barberton Makhonjwa Geotrail. This exciting and lavishly illustrated trail, can be found along the 37 km tarred road to Swaziland. It provides a fascinating halfday or full-day outing. There are colourful roadside interpretative panels directing the way, the trail may still be fully enjoyed by getting hold of the equally informative Guide Book from the Tourism Office, at the Victorian Tea Garden in Crown Street The first stop on the trail is just 2½ km beyond the Mediclinic intersection on the R40. Here there is a shady view point and an explanation of the beginning of the Barberton Greenstone Belt. This stop, like many others, provides a wonderful opportunity for a lingering look at the view. There are lay-byes all along the first 8km of this road, the last four being fully developed as Geotrail information stops. At 7 km you will find 3.2 billion year old beach sand deposits where individual tidal events can be seen clearly in exposed sandstone. A little further, the next lay-by provides a clear view north to the historic mining village of Eureka City, marked by a crown of gum trees on the horizon. A hundred and thirty years ago (1884/5), it provided a refuge from deadly malaria during the Barberton gold rush. Gold extraction continues to this day from Sheba Mine at the base of the hills, the oldest still-functioning gold mine in the world.

The last geotrail stop in this most accessible section of the geotrail, is the most significant. Just beyond Eureka View, 8.2 km from the start, Geosite 5 presents a large sandstone boulder with faintly sketched black lines scribbled across its surface. If you stop and admire this boulder (with the guide book for reference) you will be richly rewarded. For a start there is its remarkable ‘breaching-whale’ shape, but its importance is not in its seductive form. It is in the surface detail: the finely pencilled crinkly lines represent an incredibly significant milestone in the early evolution of our Earth. These dark lines are traces of once living bio-mats of densely packed single-cell organisms, laid down continuously so that they covered repeated coastal sand deposits.

They are the first signs of life on earth that can be seen with the naked eye. These 3.2 billion year old features extend 11 km through these Archaean strata, representing the only life forms on Earth for hundreds of millions of years. The next geosites are located from km 23 to 30, and represent older deep-water sediments of banded ironstone and chert. They include baryte deposits that were briefly mined for production of barium, 50-60 years ago. At 25.3 km there is a wonderful view point with picnic facilities which, displays samples of all the interesting rocks along this trail, an overview for time limited travellers. Two of the most interesting geosites are located close to the Swazi border. They display volcanic lapilli, or “real-stone” hailstones embedded in dovegrey chert; and 3.4 billion year old pillow lavas, extruded and stacked on an ocean floor by the rapid cooling effect of seawater.

The wonderfully illustrated guide book fills in the information gaps, including about non-geological features such as the disused cable-way and its mines, and other historic and cultural features of the landscape. Having enjoyed this trail, feel free to provide visitor feedback to the ladies at Barberton Tourism (Tel 013 712 2880), or as listed in the guide book. Please help keep the geotrail clean; use the refuse bins and treat the tightly winding road and fellow travellers with respect. On the last sharp downhill corner of your return trip, 2 km from the painted stones at the start, you will be faced with one of the most dangerous corners in Mpumalanga take care and tell your friends how much you have enjoyed it.

Barberton Lomati Valley Makhonjwa Geotrail

Barberton Makhonjwa Geotrail

44

• MALALANE • HECTORSPRUIT • KOMATIPOORT • KAMHLUSHWA • MARLOTH PARK • MATSAMO The Malalane and Crocodile Bridge entrance to the Kruger National Park are found in this area. The Nkomazi valley is a narrow, green wedge of land that borders two countries and is considered to be one of the most fertile regions in the whole of South Africa. It’s also unique in that you could conceivably have breakfast in South Africa, lunch in Swaziland and dinner in Mozambique, all while leisurely taking in the numerous tourism attractions that the area has to offer.

For cultural tourists, look no further than the Matsamo Cultural Village, which opened its doors in 2001 and allows tourists to experience the true culture of the Swazi people living in the region. Visitors can try cultural cuisine, boutiques, dances and having their fortunes foretold by actual Sangomas (traditional healers).

Look out for the Samora Machel Monument at Mbuzini, a tribute to the former president of Mozambique at the place where the plane he was travelling in mysteriously crashed in 1986.

Nkomazi is also home to the Malalane Kruger Gate, which allows access to the Big Five and plenty of other animals in the world-renowned wildlife sanctuary. Various guesthouses and lodges operate within the area ensuring that tourists still get the African experience even outside the gates of the Park.

Buffalo

Sugar Cane

45

Hippopotamus

Lion

Malalane means “small lala palms” and was officially established on 6 July 1949.

The Sugar Industry, which was established in 1965, had a great impact on the economy of Malalane. It was still a village with 320 people and a primary school for 105 scholars. There were only 23 buildings or structures in and around the town, including a hotel, two banks, two filling stations, two shops and four churches.

The erection of the sugar mill, between 1965 and 1967, meant that TSB (Transvaal Suiker Beperk) had to provide housing for their workers. There were no houses in Malalane to buy or to rent and TSB had to undertake the building of 70 homes in the town. Facilities for sport and recreation had to be made available. The factory’s personnel were housed close to the mill in its own little town known as Mhlathi Kop. Kruger National Park (Malalane Gate) This world-renowned park was proclaimed in 1926, when the Sabie Game Reserve and the Shingwedzi Reserve were consolidated. President Paul Kruger was told about the rapid destruction of wildlife in the area, and succeeded to persuade the Transvaal parliament to establish a wildlife protected area between the Sabie and Crocodile rivers, which opened to the public in 1927.

SAMORA MACHEL MONUMENT The Tupolev Tu-134 carrying President Samora Machel of Mozambique and his companions crashed at Mbuzini in the Lebombo Mountains on Sunday 19th October 1986, whilst returning to Mozambique from a meeting in Zambia. President Samora Machel and 34 others perished in the crash. The cause of the crash is as yet unresolved. Also on board the plane were members of Machel’s staff and prominent politicians. Among those who died were four Soviet crew members, two Cuban doctors and the Zambian and Zairean ambassadors to Mozambique. Only nine people survived the crash.

The monument was designed by Mozambican architect, Joes Foraz. It consists of 35 steel tubes symbolizing the number of lives lost in the crash. The pillars cast long shadows over the base and the wind causes permanent whisperings through incisions in the pillars. It was unveiled by President Nelson Mandela on the 19th January 1999. As a tribute by the South African Government to an outstanding African Leader the memorial site was upgraded in 2006. Among other facilities erected are an exhibition area and an amphitheatre. Directions: from the N4 east of Malelane take the R570 (Jeppes reef road) or the R571 Komatipoort and follow the information signs. Turn left from the R571 and follow the road over the mountain to Mbuzini, a distance of about 30km.

MATSAMO - A short history of the Swazi The area of what is now Swaziland has been inhabited by various different ethnic groups of people for a very long time. In eastern Swaziland human remains dating back 100,000 years belonging to the oldest homo sapiens have been discovered. The Bushman as is evident from the large number of San (Bushman) cave paintings were among the first inhabitants of this region. The Swazi themselves arrived relatively late in history.

46

Cheetah

Rhinoceros

The Swazi have their origins in East Africa around the great lakes, speaking siSwati having its origin predominantly in the Nguni group of Languages. In the late 15th century as part of the general southward expansion of the Nguni the Swazi’s crossed the Limpopo River to settle in southern Tongaland (now part of Mozambique). They remained here under their Chief (Dlamini I) for about 200 years until they moved into the fertile Pongola valley which is now part of South Africa. Economic pressure and land shortages soon resulted in a number of skirmishes and battles with the neighbouring Ndwandwe clan, which ultimately resulted in a further migration of the Swazi into what is now central Swaziland. From here the Swazi’s by way of absorption and conquest of Sotho and baPedi people built up a large Kingdom.

Ngwane III established his headquarters in Zombodze. His grandson Sobhuza further expanded the Kingdom of Swaziland by absorbing Sotho, Tsonga and Nguni chiefdoms. His rule was marked by the “Mfecane” when the Zulu under Shaka threatened the entire sub region. Sobhuza met Shaka’s advances with diplomacy, giving two of his daughters to the Zulu King. He outlived Shaka and brought peace and prosperity to all his subjects.

The Swazi under Sobhuza went on to defeat the Zulus under Dingane at Hlatikulu. Sobhuza I is regarded as the founder of pre-colonial Swaziland. He is also credited with bringing maize (now the staple food for southern Africa) from the Portuguese to the subcontinent. At the death of Sobhuza I, the mother of Sobhuza’s son Mswati II became Queen Regent until Mswati became of age. His influence and power gradually grew to envelope the area from the Limpopo in the north the Pongola River in the south and the Crocodile River in the west covering an area of about three times the size of modern Swaziland, today forming part of South Africa including the area where Matsamo is situated. Hence, more Swazis live in these areas in South Africa as South African citizens, than those living in the Kingdom of Swaziland itself.

The Swazi were the dominant power in the region for a period of 15 years. In 1865 when Mswati died he left a strong nation ruled by a cohesive ruling class. King Mswati was to be the last truly independent ruler of Swaziland for the next 100 years.

A period of peace followed under the Queen regent prior to the reign of Mbanzeni. At this time the relationship between the Swazi People and the arriving white settlers was friendly and co-operative. Swazi’s treated both British and Boers as allies. However both groups of whites had their own agenda. The Boers were looking for both arable land and a route to the sea where they could establish a port of their own, thereby avoiding the hated British. The British in return was reluctant to lose the trade provided by the Boers. To aggravate matters gold was found in Swaziland in 1882, leading to hundreds of European settlers rushing to Swaziland.

Although Mbanzeni frequently asserted the sovereignty of the Swazi, he had no control over the whites and he was coerced into granting land concessions and prospecting rights. These often clashed with the rights of customary land usage. In the 1881 Pretoria Convention, Swaziland was guaranteed its independence but its borders were defined. This independence meant that Swaziland lost large parts of its territory including the Matsamo area. King Mbanzeni died in 1889 and was succeeded by King Ngwane V also known as King Bhunu.

Without consulting the Swazi, in 1894, the two white powers concluded a convention whereby the Boer Republic of Transvaal was granted control over Swaziland and it ceased to be an Independent State. After the AngloBoer War (1899-1902) Britain made Swaziland a protectorate and the Transvaal became part of the Union of South Africa, taking with it two-thirds of Swaziland.

47

At the death of King Ngwane in 1899 the wife of King Mswati II Labotsibeni Mdluli took over the reign. In this troubled time when the Swazi came to grips with the loss of sovereignty, the queen Mother fought to get the land and independence back, petitions were sent to Britain, delegations of the Swazi went to lobby in Britain.

Most legal arguments were lost on technicalities. Labotsibeni organised a campaign to buy back the lost land from the British and Boers, to this effect many Swazi went to work in the mines in South Africa. Gradually land was returned to the Swazi, until in 1968 about two thirds of the land had reverted back to the Swazi Nation.

Labotsibeni recognized the changing times and the need to introduce western style education to her people, she therefore started the Swaziland National School, and Sobhuza became one of its first students. Sobhuza went on to study at Lovedale college in South Africa were he came into contact with many future leaders of Africa. Sobhuza became a founding member of the ANC. In 1922 King Sobhuza II was installed as Paramount chief of Swaziland and King to the Swazi nation. He took over from his grandmother Gwamile, who had been Queen Regent whilst he was underage. King Sobhuza died in 1982 after 60 years on the throne; he died as the longest reigning monarch. King Mswati III ascended the throne in 1986 at the age of 18. He is the youngest reigning monarch in the world.

Matsamo Cultural Park is named after Chief Matsamo, a prominent Shongwe Chief and contemporary of King Mswati II, who was the first Swazi Chief who resided permanently in the area and established 13 rural villages between 1840 and 1925. Today this area is under control of the Matsamo Tribal Authority. Although the residents of these thirteen villages are today still predominantly Swazi in custom and traditions, they are part of the diverse South African Nation.

MATSAMO CULTURAL VILLAGE - Day Tours to the Village Tourists visiting the park participate in a guided tour for one and a half hours through the village and are treated to folk dancing, other cultural performing arts, food and drinks. Day tours of the area and the local rural communities are arranged on request. Guides are well informed members from the community with extensive experience in hosting guests assuring that the time spent at Matsamo will both be interesting and entertaining.

Combo packages which include a tour, show and breakfast, lunch or dinner are also available. The tour consists of exploring a traditional African village, organised around family relationships and household activity areas and places for special occasions such as religious ceremonies. Traditions of farming communities are central to social life, settlement patterns, animal husbandry, agriculture, technology and trade.

Guests may wander through the village with its many huts and seclusions, each allocated for a specific social function and interact with the villagers as they go about their daily activities. Traditional African crops are cultivated, the Nguni cattle herd can be seen, traditional food is prepared and ancient crafts are being practised.

Old customs are recalled and one can marvel at the harmony which exists between man and nature in Africa. For a moment in time guests will be part of the family and remembered long after they have gone. The highlight is certainly the song and dance performed by the villagers, which usually results in keen participation by guests.

The alfresco restaurant “African Theatre”, set in true African aesthetics is nestled in a peaceful setting with cobbling water and a panoramic view. It has two covered wings, each seating 65 people and an open-air terrace seating 70 people. For functions 300 people can be accommodated. The restaurant “Edladleni” can seat 60 people and is available for private groups. A buffet breakfast is served 7 days a week from 7h00 until 11h00 and a buffet lunch blended with a taste of Africa from 12h00 to 15h30.

48

Lebombo Border

Mozambique Border

Hectorspruit’s fame lies in the role it played during the South African (Anglo Boer) War. Despite being at the very reaches of South Africa’s eastern borders, or perhaps because of this, General Louis Botha and other leaders began a guerrilla campaign from here that kept them in the playing field for an extra 18 months.

Today the town is a fair sized agricultural centre that serves the myriad surrounding farms that specialise in sugarcane, subtropical fruits (obviously, given the weather) and vegetables. Whilst the origin of a town’s name is usually superfluous, in Hectorspruit’s case it is fairly interesting, considering that the name once belonged to a dog. This particular dog was owned by the chief surveyor of the Pretoria - Delagoa Bay railway line, so he possibly had an important role to play. Certainly he was well enough loved to provide a town and its stream with his name.

Situated due east of the Rest Camp in the southern reaches of the Hectorspruit rests on the popular N4 that connects it with to the east and to the west. This narrow corridor is called the Maputo-Nelspruit development corridor because it is a narrow slip of land that links Swaziland with the Kruger. Many visitors pass through Hectorspruit because of its position in the Maputo Nelspruit development corridor. In the surrounding hills and valleys you can find San rock engravings, whilst the banks of the Crocodile River are atmospheric.

The word Komati comes from the Swazi word, “Nkhomati”, which means “river of cows”. Komatipoort is situated near the Kruger National Park, on the Western slopes of the Lebombo Mountains. The Lebombo mountains form a natural barrier between South Africa and Mozambique. Today, Komatipoort is a quiet, sedate town.

Malaria is under control, but it remains one of the hottest places in South Africa, with summer temperatures averaging about 33 degrees celcius, and balmy winter temperatures of around 26 degrees celcius. Komatipoort is a railway and customs centre as well as producing agricultural products like vegetables and subtropical fruits.

The Crocodile River reaches the end of its course when it becomes a tributary of the Komati River. At the confluence of the Komati and Crocodile Rivers is the town of Komatipoort. This quaint town is only 8km from Crocodile Bridge Gate and 50km from Malalane Gate, two of the well known gates of the Kruger Park.

The town is only 3km from the Lebombo Border Post.

Komatipoort, in the 1890’s was hot and feverous and Malaria was endemic.The Komatipoort of those days was a wild and uproarious construction camp for the railway being built from Lourenco Marques (now called Maputo).

During the Anglo/Boer War, the town was used as a base by Lieutenant-Colonel Steinaecker and his “Forty Thieves”. This group was later enlarged to become “Steinaecker’s Horse”. They were a bunch of mercenaries and bushwackers and were recruited by the British in order to fight Boer guerillas in the bushveld.

49

African Elephant

Kingfisher

• BUSHBUCKRIDGE • MANYELETI • SABI SANDS & SURROUNDS Bushbuckridge is the last of the five local municipalities that make up the Ehlanzeni District Municipality and is without a doubt the most rural of them all. Located in the northern part of Ehlanzeni, much of the region remains unexplored and as such the area is seen to hold much potential for tourism and agriculture in the future.

Despite having much to offer the visitor in the terms of natural attractions and wildlife, the greatest challenge for Bushbuckridge is to divert the scores of travellers en route to Lydenburg and other centres in the Lowveld such as Pilgrim’s Rest and Graskop. By providing the link to these areas the municipality is regarded as the gateway to the major tourism attraction points in Mpumalanga and the eastern part of the Limpopo Province.

However, Bushbuckridge is endowed with both private and state owned Wildlife Game Reserves, Agri-tourism activities, Eco-trail (hiking, horse riding, quad biking etc) and Cultural Villages and there are other tourism initiatives in the pipeline which will ensure the growth and sustainability of the region.

The cultural diversity of the region, which includes Shangaans, Swazis and Mapulane creates an opportunity for more cultural exploration.

Owl

Leopard

50

Lioness

Zebra

The Paul Kruger entrance gate to the Kruger National Park can be found in this area.

• INDIGENOUS FOREST: This forest is evergreen and situated in a high rainfall area. There are some 300 different species of indigenous plants to be found here and many tall trees such as the Yellowwood, Cape Wild Fig, Black Ironwood, Cabbage Tree and White Stink wood. Tree ferns, Epiphytic mosses, Lichens and Clivias can be found in the forest. Amongst the animals that can be spotted are Bushbuck, Leopard, Red Duiker, Samango Monkey and Bush Pig. • PICNIC SPOT: The Salique-Marieskop picnic spot is a spectacular area located along the Blyde River. It is about 10 km away from the main office and has a wealth of indigenous trees located along the river banks.

Camping is allowed. Swimming, bird watching and hiking are popular activities here.

• HIKING TRAILS: There are many hiking trails available through the indigenous and cultivated forest with wonderful views, shady resting places and encounters with abundant bird life. Waterfalls are a popular attraction on these trails. Trails require a permit.

• MARIESKOP VIEW SITE: Marieskop in Mpumalanga is situated between Acornhoek and Shatale Regions at the foot of the Drakensberg Mountain and is a popular area to visit. Driving along the R40 from Nelspruit via Greenvalley village toward 15 Boelang villages is where you can access the area. Marieskop is approximately 23km west of Klaserie. A special feature of the site is the large number of protected claviers, aloes and proteas.

A tour guide and a permit are required to visit this protected site. The Marieskop complex is separated from the rest of Drakensberg range by tributaries of the Klaserie and Blyde Rivers, the latter forming a deep canyon.

The Klaserie River, which rises in the indigenous forest on the southern slopes of Marieskop flows into the Klaserie dam.

The Sabi Sand Reserve is adjacent to the Kruger National Park and consists of various private game reserves: MalaMala Game Reserve, Djuma Game Reserve, Lion Sands Reserve, Exeter Private Game Reserve, Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve, Londolozi Private Game Reserve, Singita Game Reserve and Ulusaba Private Game Reserve. The Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve is the ideal place to experience an incredible African safari. With breathtaking scenery, affordable and luxury accommodation and lodging, rich biodiversity and amazing wildlife encounters, Sabi Sand is the ultimate safari destination.

Sabi Sands is an area that boasts the most diverse wildlife in Africa. High quality service, excellent cuisine and world class facilities can be expected at your Sabi Sands accommodation and lodging. There is accommodation and lodging to suit every taste and budget. Some attractions are the Big Five, an abundance of game viewing and natural scenery, Kruger National Park, exclusive game lodges, game drives, excellent photographic opportunities, game walks, spa and gym facilities at some lodges. Nightlife activities include night drives, sundowners and dinner in traditional boma under the African sky.

51

Zebra

The first stone age hunters roamed the plains in search of game half a million years ago. Later the plains were inhabited by modern day bushmen who have left fascinating rock paintings all over South Africa. The Kruger National Park contains over one hundred sites of these paintings.

The very first ranger in the reserve was Paul Bester who made his residence in a rustic rondavel (hut) which is now the site of the headquarters camp, Skukuza. Documents concerning the History of the Kruger National Park can be viewed at the Skukuza Library. Hundreds of Europeans and farmers came to the Lowveld lured by rumours of gold and the great quantity of valuable commodities such as ivory and skins. The number of game decreased dramatically due to hunting and trading of animal skins and horns.

The Kruger National Park is a living memorial to President Paul Kruger and those who have upheld his vision of a protected wilderness reserve which will forever remind us of that which we are so dangerously close to losing. President Paul Kruger was told about the rapid destruction of wildlife in the area by hunters, after which he succeeded to persuade the Transvaal parliament to establish a protected area for wildlife in the Lowveld region.

The flagship of the South African national parks, Kruger is home to an impressive number of species: 336 trees, 49 fish, 34 amphibians, 114 reptiles, 507 birds and 147 mammals. Man’s interaction with the Lowveld environment over many centuries - from bushman rock paintings to majestic archaeological sites like Masorini and Thulamela - is very evident in the Kruger National Park. These treasures represent the cultures, persons and events that played a role in the history of the Kruger National Park and are conserved along with the park’s natural assets. The world-renowned Kruger National Park offers a wildlife experience that ranks with the best in Africa. Established in 1898 to protect the wildlife of the South African Lowveld, this national park of nearly 2 million hectares, SANParks - Kruger National Park is unrivalled in the diversity of its life forms and a world leader in advanced environmental management techniques and policies. The Kruger National Park opened

Herd of Elephants Hippopotamus

52

Crocodile

Lioness

to the first visitors in 1927. The park stretches 380km from North to South and is 60km wide. It boasts 16 distinct ecosystems, 2 million hectare prestine Africa and the ‘Big Five’ which include the white rhino and the endangered black rhino, the elephant, the lion, the most elusive leopard and the buffalo.

Entrance gates opening times: Oct - Mar: 05:30 • Apr - Sep: 06:00 Camp gates opening times: Oct: 05:30 • Nov - Jan: 04:30 • Feb - Mar: 05:30 • Apr - Sep: 06:00 Camp gates closing times: Aug - Oct: 18:00 • Nov - Feb: 18:30 • Mar - Apr: 18:00 • May - Jul: 17:30 The park has the following camps: Bushveld Camps • Berg-en-dal is situated on the southern bank of the Matsulu Spruit • Bia Miti • Ximumini • Pretoriuskop is one of the oldest camps with thick bush and long grass in the surroundings • Lower Sabie has thick riverine vegetation - hippo’s and lions • Skukuza (the one who sweeps clean) is the biggest, most popular camp, admin capital.

• Satara is the second largest camp - buffaloes and the predators that follow them eg lions • Olifants Camp is on a cliff overlooking the Olifants River • Letaba is halfway into the full length of the park, famous for the Elephant Hall of Fame hosting the actual tusks of the renowned magnificent seven elephant bulls. These were popular for the way they displayed their tusks: Jumbo, Maponyane, Ndlulamithi, Xangu, Xingwedzi, Jawu and Gambagu Private Camps (exclusive and privately owned) 1. Mopani Camp is situated 48km north of Letaba Camp 2. Xingwedzi Camp and Caravan Park (San paintings suggesting that the San people might have been the first visitors to the park) 3. Jock of the Bushveld 4. Pondo Maria Camp is famous for Lala trees and is the elephants’ favourite Peace Park for Africa (Removal of the border between the KNP and the Mozambican park).

Rhinoceros

Elephants

53

All coats and jackets must go through the X-ray machine for inspection. These include trench coats, heavy winter coats, suit jackets, sport coats and blazers. If you choose to wear an outer coat or jacket to the checkpoint, you will need to either place it in your carry-on or put it in the bin that is provided for you.

AIRPORT HINTS AND TIPS

What Not To Wear Through Airport Security Any metal at the checkpoint must be identified so dress accordingly. If you set off the alarm, you will be required to undergo additional screening, including a hand-wanding and a pat-down inspection that includes the torso. You can remove metal items at the security checkpoint and place them in the bins provided. The bins will be sent through the X-ray machine. You can save time, however, by not wearing metal items or by placing such items in your carry-on baggage before you get in line.

Advice for Travelling Alone Travelling alone can be an intimidating experience, especially for those who do not do it often. Knowing what to expect and thinking about challenges solo air travel brings can make it an easy and efficient experience.

TSA Shoe Screening Policy You are not required to remove your shoes before you enter the walk-through metal detector as many types of footwear will require additional screening anyway even if the metal detector does not set off the alarm.

Footwear that screeners will encourage you to remove because they are likely to require additional screening: • Boots • Platform shoes (including platform flip-flops) • Footwear with a thick sole or heel (including athletic shoes) • Footwear containing metal (including many dress shoes) Footwear that screeners are less likely to suggest you remove includes: • “Beach” flip-flops • Thin-soled sandals (without metal) TIP: Since a thorough screening includes X-ray inspection of footwear, wearing footwear that is easily removable helps to speed you through the screening process.

TIP: Avoid wearing clothing, jewellery, or other accessories that contain metal when travelling: • Pins, necklaces, rings, watches, ear-rings, body piercings, cuff links, lanyard or bolo tie • Clothing with metal buttons, snaps or studs • Metal hair barrettes or other hair decoration • Belt buckles • Under-wire brassieres Hidden items such as body piercings may result in a pat-down inspection. You may be asked to remove your body piercing in private as an alternative to the pat-down search.

TIP: Avoid placing metal items in your pockets.

• Keys, loose change, lighters • Mobile phones, pagers, and personal data assistants (PDA’s) TIP: Instead, place jewellery and other metal items in your carry-on baggage until you clear security.

TIP: Pack all your coats and jackets in your baggage when possible.

Avoid checking in a bag, as it’s much easier to be a self-contained entity when alone, leaving as little responsibility to the airline as possible. There is nobody to search for the right baggage claim with you or to help you talk to the agent if a bag gets lost. By keeping everything with you there is less chance of error.

Do not be afraid to gate check a bag - usually signified by yellow tags put on the bag as you board. This works differently from normal bag checking in, as any gate checked bag is only given to the airline as you board the plane, and is retrieved right as you exit the plane. The bag never actually goes through the whole luggage system which could result in the bag being misplaced.

The biggest advantage of travelling alone is usually the ability to get an exit row seat. If the airline you are flying with allows online check-in (usually available 24 hours before departing time) exit row seats can usually be obtained there. If not, make sure to ask at the gate, as most of the time there will be the odd one exit row seat that nobody has taken because they want to sit with their travelling companions.

DRIVING IN SOUTH AFRICA • Although as a country South Africa is vast, it is relatively easy to drive around and see many highlights in a 2 or 3 week holiday.

• South Africans drive on the left hand side of the road, and all signposts are written in English.

• It is law to wear a seat belt at all times, and using a mobile phone when driving is prohibited.

• The main roads and highways are generally maintained in a good condition, and are straight, long and fast.

Driving Licence All drivers must have a valid driving licence from their

54

DRINKING AND DRIVING IN SOUTH AFRICA

country of residence. If the licence is not printed in English, then you will need to obtain an International Drivers Licence. You must carry your driving licence with you at all times when driving in South Africa. If your licence does not have a photograph on it, then you must also carry your passport with you so that you can be identified as the legal holder of the driving licence. It’s a good idea to keep a copy of your driving licence separate in your luggage, and also leave a copy at home with family or friends. Please note that the various car hire companies have different regulations regarding the length of time that you need to have held a driving licence, so it is advisable to check with your hire car company about their requirements.

Robots on the Street When asking for directions, you may be surprised to get the response “turn left at the next robot...” - no, you have not suddenly been transported into a Star Wars film, rather a ‘robot’ is the South African term for traffic lights.

Say NO to drinking and driving!

People often ask how much they can drink before they go past the limit so here is a “basic” answer: • 1 metric is 8.4grams of ethyl alcohol • An average beer contains between 13 – 16 grams of ethyl alcohol.

• One beer is therefore about the equivalent of a double e.g. brandy • In trials all the participants exceeded the legal limit = 0.05g/dl after TWO beers The blood alcohol limit for professional driver is 0.02 % - one beer puts you over the limit!

• Alcohol slows down your reaction time.

• Alcohol distorts your vision.

• Alcohol gives you false courage.

• A cold shower or cup of coffee won’t sober you up.

• Don’t party the night before you drive.

• Fatigue combined with a hangover makes you an unsafe driver!

• Do not use alcohol to deal with stress, depression or loneliness.

• Don’t feel ashamed to ask for help if you think you may have a drinking problem.

• Don’t be influenced by friends – say no to “one for the road”

Stop sign. 4 Way Stop South Africa is home to the 4 way stop sign. For those unfamiliar with this concept, the first car that arrives at the junction has the right of way, whether they are going straight on, or turning left or right. The second person to arrive has the next right of way, and so on.

If you are not familiar with this method, then you will have to pay particular attention when approaching stop signs, as you may find if your attention lapses for only a second, you’re likely to cut someone up!

HIKING/WALKING TIPS

2WD or 4WD? There are very few roads in South Africa where you would need a 4WD. Even in the self-drive National Parks and safari areas such as Kruger or Hluhluwe, the roads are good and a 2WD can adequately cope with the odd bit of unevenness.

Safety Precautions When driving anywhere in South Africa, try to apply the following precautions: • Drive with your doors locked and windows wound up, especially when stopped at traffic lights.

• Don’t ever stop to pick up hitchhikers, however innocent, lost or appealing they look. If you are worried about someone’s plight, stop at the next town and report it to someone there.

• Do not leave anything valuable on show in your car when you leave it unattended, and ALWAYS lock your car when you leave it, even if you are only going to be gone for a few minutes.

• Try to always park in a busy, well-lit area.

• Take advice from your hosts where you are staying, and ask if there are any areas that tourists should avoid driving through.

• Do not get out of your car if you are knocked or hit from behind in suspicious circumstances.

• Do not partake in road rage!

55

1. Know your physical condition 2. Choose an appropriate trail for your ability before you begin hiking 3. Know the latest weather forecast so you can dress and plan accordingly 4. Estimate your hiking time. Know when the sun will set 5. Proper dress – wear layers. Hike in sturdy, comfortable, over-the-ankle footwear 6. Proper food - bring high energy food for snacking and plenty of water (600mls an hour under 90 degrees; a litre an hour, over 90 degrees). Carry a day-pack 7. Allergies - if you have them please remember to bring your medication 8. If park rules are posted, read them and adhere to them. If you are asked to sign a “roster of visitors” at the trail entrance, do so – both are for your safety 9. Communication – inform family or friends where you are hiking and when you will return 10. Observe hunting signs. Hunting may be in progress from September through February in many areas 11. Carry identification and let someone know where you are going 12. Carry your cellphone if you have one 13. If you’re new to exercise, check with your doctor before starting any fitness programme 14. Use appropriate walking form

South Africa, and treatment of the bites is directed at preventing or limiting secondary infection and promoting healing • Violin Spider bites may require surgical debridement and even skin grafts • These bites require tetanus toxoid booster

15. If walking vigorously, warm up and cool down by walking slowly for 5 minutes at the beginning and end of your walk to avoid injury 16. If crossing busy streets is problematic on your walking route, walk at AM and PM times when there are school crossing guards 17. Walk different routes and trails to enjoy different natural and architectural environments

Black Mamba The Black Mamba is very seldom pitch black in colour but the name has derived from dark lining of the mouth. Of all the African snakes this is the most feared and is known for being aggressive when agitated or confronted and will strike with deadly precision.

The outer colour varies between a pale grey-green to a gunmetal blue. The head is also distinctive in being narrowly shaped and having round eyes with round pupils. The snake, being neuro-toxic, causes respiratory failure and leaves the victim paralysed which causes death in 7-15 hours. The average length of a specimen varies between 2 to 2.5 metres but an exceptional case was recorded of 4.5 metres!

Bites from Black Mambas to humans are rare, but they are very deadly. A single bite can have enough venom to kill anywhere from 20 to 40 grown men.

When in the striking position, the mamba flattens its neck, hisses very loudly and displays its inky black mouth and deadly fangs. It can rear up around onethird of its body from the ground, which puts it at about 1.2 metres high.

Advance preparation for conditions and weather will help assure a safe and pleasant outing. Any activity that involves walking along or through veld, or trails brings the potential for exposure to ticks. The best way to dress when walking outdoors is to wear light-coloured clothing, long sleeves, and long pants tucked into socks. Insect repellent is helpful and some varieties may offer some protection against ticks.

Check throughout the day to see that you and your walking partners are free of ticks. Brush off clothing, socks, and shoes when leaving the veld. If you find a tick on your skin, remove immediately by using tweezers and grasp from the top or head to remove the entire tick.

SPIDERS AND SNAKES

The Violin Spider This spider is normally brown to reddish brown in colour with dark markings on their bodies, and they get their name from the violin shaped mark on their body – although this is not a dark marking in South Africa. They also only have three pairs of eyes instead of the normal four pairs found on most spiders. They are nocturnal wanderers and rest in their webs during the day. Their natural habitat is underneath wood and logs and are commonly found in caves all over South Africa • The initial bite is small and superficial looking and may be painless • After several hours swelling develops, the bite site becomes discoloured and pain may set in • In the next few days blistering occurs and the skin may peel away leaving an ulcerating wound • No anti-venom is available for violin spider bites in

Green mamba The Green Mamba is lighter and more slender than the Black Mamba but has the same shaped head.

It is true to its name and often a beautiful classic green in colour. The underbelly is often a brilliant light green colour as well. Being a tree-loving snake they are restricted to the more thickly forested and bush-covered areas and seldom venture to the ground unless following prey or basking in the sun.

It is a shy and non-aggressive snake, and does not strike if threatened. Continued provocation will cause the snake to strike, and bites are serious. Their diet consists primarily of birds, eggs and small mammals.

56

Visas are generally required and can be quite expensive so make sure you have factored this into your budget. They can also take weeks to process so make sure you have enough time to get the visa before you depart.

You may also need to have proof of vaccination so check with a Travel Clinic too.

Historical Background The first Tsonga-speakers to enter the former Transvaal probably did so during the 18th Century. They were essentially traders who followed rivers inland, where they bartered cloth and beads for ivory, copper and salt. The Shangaan tribe came into being when King Shaka of the Zulus sent Soshangane (Manukosi) to conquer the Tsonga people in the area of present-day southern Mozambique, during the Mfecane upheaval of the 19th Century. Soshangane found a fertile place inhabited by scattered communities of peace-loving people, and he decided to make it his home.

The Shangaan were a mixture of Nguni (a language group which includes Swazi, Zulu and Xhosa), and Tsonga speakers (Ronga, Ndzawu, Shona, Chopi tribes), which Soshangane conquered and subjugated.

Soshangane insisted that Nguni customs be adopted, and that the Tsonga learn the Zulu language.

Young Tsonga men were assigned to the army as ‘mabulandlela’ (those who open the road). Soshangane also imposed Shaka’s military system of dominion and taught the people the Zulu ways of fighting.

Local travel is great and generally you don’t need a visa. The requirements are: • Swaziland: Passport valid for 6 months after you leave and must contain several blank pages. No need for a visa if you’re staying under 2 months.

• Lesotho: Passport must be valid for 6 months after date of departure. No visa required.

• Mozambique: Passport valid for 6 months from date of departure. No visa required.

• Namibia: Passport valid for 6 months from date of entry and departure. No visa required.

• Botswana: Passport must be valid for at least 3 months. No visa required.

• Zimbabwe: Passport must be valid for duration of your stay. A 3-month holiday or 30-day working visa will be issued on arrival (free for SA citizens).

Soshangane’s army overran the Portuguese settlements in Mozambique, at Delagoa Bay, Inhambane and Sena, and during the next few years, he established the Nguni kingdom of Kwa Gaza, which he named after his grandfather, Gaza.

The Gaza Kingdom comprised parts of what are now southeastern Zimbabwe, as well as extending from the Save River down to the southern part of Mozambique, covering parts of the current provinces of Sofala, Manica, Inhambane, Gaza and Maputo, and neighbouring parts of South Africa. Another army, under the command of Dingane and Mhlangana, was sent by Shaka to deal with Soshangane, but the army suffered great hardship because of hunger and malaria, and Soshangane had no difficulty, towards the end of 1828, in driving them off.

TSONGA PEOPLE

During the whole of this turbulent period, from 1830 onwards, groups of Tsonga speakers moved southwards and defeated smaller groups living in northern Natal; others moved westwards into the Transvaal, where they settled in an arc stretching from the Soutpansberg in the north, to Nelspruit and Barberton areas in the southeast, with isolated groups reaching as far westwards as Rustenburg.

TRAVEL TIPS

Before planning your next holiday make sure you know exactly what travel documentation you need and make sure you have enough time to either apply for a passport or get it renewed (remember South African passports have to be valid for a month after you return to the country). Its also a good idea to keep a note of when your passport expires so a weekend trip to Swaziland doesn’t have to be cancelled at the border! Make sure you know what documents you need before travelling to an international destination.

Remember the authorities are often very particular about exactly what they need to prevent several, timewasting trips to get the right form or photo.

As a diverse race of people the Tsonga generally include the Shangaan, Thonga, Tonga, and several smaller ethnic groups. Together they numbered about 1.5 million people in South Africa in the mid1990s, with some 4.5 million individuals in southern Mozambique and Zimbabwe.

After the death of Soshangane in 1856, his sons fought over the chieftainship. Soshangane had left the throne to Mzila, but Mawewe felt that he should be chief. Mawewe attacked Mzila and his followers, causing them to leave Mozambique and flee to the Soutpansberg Mountains in the Transvaal. Mzila stayed with João Albasini at Luonde. Albasini, who had been appointed by the Portuguese Vice-Consul to the Zuid Afrikaansche Republiek (ZAR) in 1858, employed many of the Tsonga men as ‘indhuna’ (headman), and defenders of his fort-like home at

57

Social and Cultural Life Traditionally, the Tsonga lived mainly by fishing for subsistence. A few goats and chickens were raised, and crop cultivation was important. Their tsetse flyinfested coastal lowland habitat made cattle raising an uncommon practice.

By the 18th Century, most Tsonga were organised into several small and independent chiefdoms in which inheritance by brothers, rather than sons, was a defining feature of the social system, a practice common in many Central African societies but rare among other South African groups.

the foot of the Piesangkop near the modern town of Makhado (formerly known as Louis Trichardt).

Aided by Albasini and traders at Lourenço Marques, Mzila gained the upper hand, returning and defeating Mawewe in 1862. Mawewe fled to Swaziland, where he sought the help of King Mswati I, finally settling in northern Swaziland on the border with Gazaland.

Ngungunyane, who succeeded Mzila, was defeated by the Portuguese in 1895, which caused the collapse of the Gaza kingdom.

Compared with common western family structures, the traditional social structures of the Tsonga tribes are quite complex. The smallest social unit that can be determined is the ‘nuclear family’, consisting of a woman with her own hut and cooking area, her husband and their children. For Tsonga men, the possibility of having more than one wife exists. In cases of polygamy, ‘extended families’ came about, consisting of a group of nuclear families, headed by the same man. When the sons of an extended family married, a settlement, or muti came about, consisting of a man, his wives, their unmarried children and the families of their married sons.

The Tsonga came to João Albasini for protection and they considered Jiwawa (the Tsonga version of his name) as their chief. Between 1864 and 1867, the Tsonga were involved in the battles between Paul Kruger’s commandos and the Venda chief Makhato.

For their services they were rewarded with some land near the town of Schoemansdal. This area became known as the ‘Knobneusen Location’, because of the habit the Tsonga had of tattooing their noses. Later the Shangaan people fled to the Lowveld after the Portuguese conquered them. The descendants of both Tsonga and Shangaan lived together in the area and a great deal of interaction occurred between the two groups.

In present times, the Tsonga community structure is based on tribal relationships. A tribe is a group of people, which recognises the authority from one tribal chief or hosi, and is living in a specific tribal area, or tiko ra hosi.

Belief System Whilst generally in Bantu culture, and specifically in Shangaan-Tsonga culture, a Supreme Being is acknowledged, far more relevant are the powers of ancestors who are believed to have considerable effects on the lives of their descendants.The ancestors appear mainly in dreams, but sometimes manifest themselves as spirits.

The Tsonga-Shangaan homeland, Gazankulu, was carved out of northern Transvaal Province during the 1960s and was granted self-governing status in 1973. The homeland economy depended largely on gold. Only an estimated 500,000 people - less than half the Tsonga-Shangaan population of South Africa - ever lived there. Many others joined the throngs of township residents around urban centres, especially Johannesburg and Pretoria.

Some spirits or ancestors are believed to live in certain sacred places where ancient chiefs have been buried.

Each clan has several of these burial grounds. The ancestors are propitiated by prayers and offerings, which range from beer to animal sacrifices.

Traditionally, each Tsonga family had its own ‘village’ composed of a few houses and a kraal, surrounded by the fields and grazing areas. From 1964, the government started resettling the people in rural villages of 200 to 400 families. These resettlements brought tremendous changes in the life of the people, some for the better (roads, schools, water, etc), some for the worse (scattering of the enlarged family, lack of privacy, problems with cattle, distance from the fields, and so forth).

58

The Sangoma, on behalf of the community, makes offerings in times of trouble or in cases of illness, and on special occasions. Care is taken to please the ancestors, as restless ancestors can cause trouble.

Children are named after their ancestors to ensure continuity in the family. According to the Tsonga a strong relationship exists between the creation (ntumbuloko) and a supernatural power called Tilo.

Tilo refers to a vaguely described superior being, who created mankind, but it also refers to the heavens, being the home of this creature.

ceremonies, the family gathered at a special area to pay homage to the ancestral spirits. Food and drink was offered to the ancestors to thank them for providing for the people.

Face scarring in Shangaan–Tsonga culture had its origin in deterring Arab slave traders but it is now considered a sign of beauty. The transition from youth to adulthood is a truly warlike affair, where patterns are burnt into the skin.

Music and dance In the Shangaan–Tsonga tradition, the storyteller is the grandmother or elder woman of the family who is the respected transmitter of the old stories. The old woman, called Garingani, or narrator, begins her storytelling by saying “Garingani, n’wana wa Garingani!” - “I am Narrator, daughter of Narrator!” after which the crowd cheers “Garingani”. The crowd chants her name after each line of the story. With a love for music, the Shangaan–Tsonga people have developed a number of musical instruments. The ‘fayi’ - a small, stubby wooden flute that produces a breathless, raspy, but haunting sound, is often played by young herd boys.

The Tsonga believed that man had a physical (mmiri) and a spiritual body with two added attributes, the moya and the ndzuti. The moya is associated with the spirit, enters the body at birth, and leaves at death to join the ancestors. The ndzuti was associated with the person’s shadow and reflected human characteristics.

At death, in the spirit world, it left the body. This meant that the spirit was attached with the individual and human characteristics of that person. Inherent in this concept is not only the belief in life after death but also that the dead retain very strong links with the living.

Passing over into the spirit world is an important stage in the life of a Tsonga.

The ‘xitende’ is a long thin bow tied on each end by a taut leather thong or wire - which runs across a gourd. to alleviate boredom on long journeys.

The Shangaan-Tsonga is well known for their mine dances, carried out to the beat of drums and horns and wide variety of musical instruments such as the mbila. Shangaan–Tsonga male dancers performed the muchongolo dance, which celebrated the role of women in society, war victories and ritual ceremonies.

Life of the Shangaan Today A living monument to the Shangaan culture was officially opened on 23 February 1999 near Hazyview, Mpumalanga. The Cultural Village aims to enhance tourism and contribute to job creation, foreign currency earnings and economic development. Today, the Shangaan live in areas mainly between the Kruger National Park and the Drakensberg Mountains, in South Africa’s Mpumalanga and Northern Provinces.

Their sister tribe, the Tsongas, inhabit most of southern Mozambique.

The members of the family performed a welcoming ceremony to help ease the passage of the dead person into the spirit world. The death of a member of the family also caused all the other members in the homestead to become unclean and they all had to go through ritual cleansing ceremonies. These ceremonies were performed at different times of the day over the next few months. During religious

59

60

Swazi Candles

Swazi Reed Dance

Ngwenya Glass

Border Post: Ehlanzeni to Swaziland is Jeppe’s Reef Border Post. R570 from Malelane on N4.

Hours: 07:00-20:00. Tel: 013 781 0561 Swaziland is an exciting country which teems with a huge variety of places to see, from Bushmen (San) paintings, to arts and crafts, from magnificent waterfalls to the famous Swazi Candles. Not to be missed are the Game Parks and the cultural experiences to be found in Swaziland.

Bushman paintings can be seen at: Nsangwini in the northern Hhohho region in the area of Chief Molwane Dlamini. Paintings are damaged and fading. Sandlane, about 1km from the Sandlane border post, paintings are still in reasonably good condition.

Dlangeni next to Shiyabedla Gama’s home. Paintings that have at least two eland that are clear but the other animals have faded. Maguga dam area - one of the paintings that would have been covered by the dam will be saved. Other rock painting sites have been identified in the Ezulwini Valley near Sheba’s Breasts at Kuthandeni, at Nkaba near the Luyane Stream on the banks of Mpetsane stream near the Ngwempisane river at Ntfungula mountain and in the environs of Gege.

Attractions: • The Mantenga Waterfalls: Swaziland’s best known waterfalls and one of the largest in terms of of volume of water • Ngwenya Mine – one of the oldest mines in the world 42,000 years old!

Swazi Candles Swazi Candles, situated in the Malkerns Valley in the Kingdom of Swaziland, has been producing fine handmade candles since 1981. The artists and craftsmen produce unique candle designs which are renowned throughout the world. Swazi Candles take pride in the fact that the candles are still made and finished by hand and no two are the same!

Ngwenya Glass At Ngwenya Glass, a small group of Swazi craftsmen and women - with age old artistry - breathe life into enchanting interpretations of the animals and birds of Africa, imbuing each with its own irresistible personality.

Cultural Villages Join the vibrant Swazi song and dance performances whilst the pulsating rhythms of African drums fill your inner spirit with a sense of belonging. The Mantenga Cultural Village is a mini complex of sixteen huts, each with its own specific purpose, kraals and byres for cattle and goats, reed fences that serve as windbreaks, and various other structures.

Game Reserves Swaziland’s big game parks manages three game reserves in Swaziland. Mlilwane is said to be denoted as the first game reserve in the Kingdom and Hlane was the second. Hlane Royal National Park is the largest in

61

King Sobhuza II Memorial Park

King Mswati III

Mantenga Waterfalls

Swaziland and is the best park if you want to see the big five which is the leopard, lion, buffalo, elephant and rhino and many other animals. You can have a unique experience by viewing the wildlife by foot but vehicles to view wildlife are also provided. Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary is Swaziland’s wildlife pioneer conservation area.

At Ezulwini there is a beautiful quiet sanctuary - Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. Visitors can relax in our peaceful rest camps with picnic areas, a large swimming pool and restaurant. There is something for everyone. Mlilwane provides adventure and craft tours, game viewing, horse trails and mountain biking. Mkhaya Game Reserve is a very small area, but definitely worth visiting. Mkhaya Game Reserve is located in eastern part of Swaziland.

This is the place to see black and white rhinos. Spending a night in this reserve is worth it, they have luxurious tent camps. There is also game viewing on open land rovers. Advanced booking is advisable for all day tours and overnight stays.

Museums King Sobhuza II Memorial Park is Swaziland’s national museum which gives an introduction to the history of the Swazi cultural values, Swazi origins, their routines and traditional clothing. The traditional dress for men mainly includes “emahiya” the loin cloth and women usually wear a loin apron with a cloak and skin skirt. Necklaces, anklets and beads are usually used by both men and women to decorate themselves. Old photographs that depict the Swazi history are displayed in a cabinet with detailed descriptions. King Sobhuza II Memorial Park is located at the royal area at Lobamba.

Maguga dam A water adventure can be experienced at Maguga Dam. This is the newest activity launched by Swaziland’s adventure specialists and is also part of the R2 billion development of the Komati River basin, a joint project with South Africa. The dam has opened job opportunities for most Swazi people around Piggs Peak. Maguga dam in the Nkomazi river along the Piggs Peak and Mbabane corridor is a wonderful place to experience a peaceful and enjoyable moment in the water flanked by gigantic mountains on both sides where you can take beautiful photographs.

Phophonyane Falls The phophonyane waterfall is situated at Peaks Peak. Enjoy the peaceful environment whilst watching the stream splash on the rocks.

King Sobhuza II Memorial Park

62

Railway Station on Praca dos Trabalhadores

Maputo Market

Border Post: Ehlanzeni to Mozambique is Lebombo Border Post. Komatipoort N4.

Hours: Open 06:00am - Close Midnight Peak Hours: Open 24 hours • Tel: 013 793 0102 Mozambique is on the Indian Ocean coast of Southern Africa, bordered by South Africa to the south, Tanzania to the north and has inland borders with Malawi, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Swaziland. Mozambique possesses a very long eastern coastline along the Indian Ocean, a fantastic drawcard for scuba divers, fishermen, sailors and beach lovers. Maputo is the capital city of Mozambique and is the largest with the country’s most important harbour. It is situated at the mouth of the Santo River in the extreme south 90km from the border to South Africa.

Compared to some other sub-Saharan African cities the urban area feels small and concentrated with wide avenues and old trees. People are generally out and about in the streets, walking, driving and getting on with life. The vibe is healthy and active, with little begging and lots of street vendors and markets. There is no heavy presence of police during the day and it feels very safe.

The Railway Station on Praca dos Trabalhadores was designed by Gustave Eiffel (after his fall from grace in the Panama canal scandal), and bears the mark of his genius. The National Art Museum has a small but good collection of Mozambican art, including several large canvases by the world-renowned Malangatana. The Jardim Tunduru is a very pretty (albeit small) botanical garden. The Museum of the Revolution chronicles Mozambique’s fight for indepedence from Portuguese colonialism. The Mercado Central in the Baixa district has fresh fish, crabs, calamari, fruit and vegetables, and many household items. Safe, lively and recommended, especially if cooking for yourself. Walk up Avenida Julius Nyerere starting from the Hotel Cardoso or Natural History Museum along Rua Mutemba to Nyerere then left (north) to the Polana Hotel. Boutiques, restaurants, curio vendors, video stores, etc are to be seen in the relatively upscale Polana neighbourhood. Visit some beautiful beaches, such as Catembe and the popular Ponta d’Ouro frequented by South African divers and surfers. There is a small village nearby but it is mostly overshadowed by the tourist camps. It is very jovial and extremely safe.

Inhambane is a sleepy historic town some 485km north of Maputo. It has some great colonial architecture (in a low-key sort of a way) and is considered by many to be one of the prettiest towns in Mozambique. It is situated on a peninsula overlooking a bay, and also serves as a springboard to the coastal resorts around Tofo beach (some 30km due east, along a reasonably good road). Tofo Beach has been described as “the next Goa”, and while this may be pushing it a bit, Tofo has definitely become a traveller’s mecca on the Eastern coast of Africa.

The reasons are not hard to discern: beautiful stretches of beach, a friendly laid-back vibe, a small but pumping nightlife, great diving and snorkelling and a few good restaurants too.

Tofo and surrounds have some truly excellent diving, with nice reefs and excellent large marine life. Whale sharks and Humpback whales in season, reef sharks and much more. Don’t miss Manta Reef, home of three cleaning stations where the critters really throng. Most of the better dive sites are at around 25-30 metres, requiring deep-dive certification (which you can get through one of the dive shops if you don’t have it already).

Snorkelling is a MUST… swimming with Whale sharks, the largest fish in the world is incredibly special. Although their mouths are over a metre wide and their bodies 8m long they are harmless. if you’re lucky you may also get to swim with wild dolphins and manta rays. Swimming with whales is prohibited, although you’ll be happy to see them from the boat. Inquire with the dive shops about trips. Surfing is also a nice possibility in the warm Indian Ocean and boards can be hired from the little cafe next to Diversity Scuba.

63

Maputo

Maputo

Vilanculos is a popular beach town and the gateway to the Bazaruto Archipelago, a group of five idyllic islands off the coast of Mozambique, the largest of which is Bazaruto Island. Others are Inhaca and Paradise Island.

The Archipelago is truly one of the most beautiful destinations on the African continent. The area is now protected as a conservation area and national park. The park is one of the largest in the Indian Ocean and a crucial achievement in global marine conservation. Sand dunes are found throughout the Archipelago and tidal flats and inland saline lakes support a wide variety of seabird species. Coral reefs are also home to thousands of fish, coral and marine mammal species. The largest dugong population along the eastern African coast can also be found here. Mile after mile of deserted sandy beaches also grace the island. The leeward side of the island chain is surrounded by calm turquoise water while the windward side offers an even more isolated and untamed seashore with waves constantly pounding the coastline. While offering an exquisite paradise, travellers may find accommodation on the islands expensive. Fortunately, Vilanculos offers a plethora of affordable places to sleep.

Day trips by dhows can easily be arranged from the mainland. Untouched paradise on earth, the archipelago has earned its reputation as the ‘Pearl of the Indian Ocean’.

Ilha de Mozambique is a city in Nampula Province with a historical heritage that is unmatched in the rest of Mozambique and indeed the rest of Africa. It was the capital of Mozambique for nearly four centuries before the move to Lourenco Marques (now Maputo) and had been used as a major base for the Arab traders long before the arrival of the Portuguese. Ilha is a magical mix of old Portuguese and old Muslim architecture. It basically divides into two halves - the old stone town in the north and the “reed town” in the south. However the reed town here is set down from the main streets. The museum is in the old Palacio Govierno, a big red building up in stone town. In the same building is a tourist information office that sells really good street maps and has all sorts of other information about the various restaurants and pensaos on the island. Also well worth a visit is the fort at the northern tip of the island, which contains the Church of Nossa Senhora Baluarte, almost certainly the oldest surviving European building in the southern hemisphere, dating back to 1522. There is a dive centre at the northern end of the island just down from the fort. Nampula is the capital of Nampula Province in northern Mozambique, surrounded by plains and rocky outcrops. The city is connected by plane (LAM) to Maputo; it hosts the regional market and is well supplied with shops, banks, hotels and restaurants. Nampula is the staging post for journeys further north (towards the Tanzania border) or west (towards Malawi). The only passenger railway service in the country connects the town with Cuamba near the Malawi border. Attractions in Nampula include the large, domed cathedral and the ethnology museum.

Pemba is a port town in Mozambique located on the south side of the world’s third largest natural bay. It is the most important centre in northern Mozambique, and therefore has banks, patisseries, supermarkets and restaurants, although the town is very run down with paved streets having massive potholes and other storm water damage. The town was built over rolling hills, and most people live in wooden huts set amongst many thick baobab trees. The town is renowned for its Portuguese colonial architecture. It was renamed Pemba at the end of Portuguese rule in 1975. Pemba is also renowned as being a prime destination for water sport and diving enthusiasts as a coral reef lies close to the shore. Pemba has increasingly become a tourist destination, particularly for upper-middle class Mozambicans and South Africans.

Also worth visiting is the Cahora Bassa Dam, one of the three major dams on the Zambezi river system.

Situated in the Tete Province the Cahora Bassa Lake is southern Africa’s second-largest artificial lake. The nearby town is called Songo.

64