Saddle Up - Find The Right Saddle For the Right Fit

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“A short, straight back with typically one less vertebrae than other breeds, a deep chest and well-sprung ribs” are characteristics described in the Arabian breed standard. Just as owners select a halter to set off the classic Arabian profile, riders take equal care to select a saddle that fits his back for comfort and performance.

The sometimes paradox of finding a saddle to fit the short yet wide back of the Arabian horse was addressed in 1990 by fifth-generation saddler, Steve Lovatt, of Lovatt & Ricketts Saddles in Walsall, England. Lovatt’s development of an Arabian saddle and the Arabian Saddle Company, which he founded with his wife, Janet, started with conversations. “Back in the United Kingdom, some endurance rider friends had Arabians and Half-Arabians, and we always had to tweak the trees to fit their horses’ backs,” remembers Janet Lovatt. “Steve decided to go back to the drawing board. Arabians have wider barrels and shoulders along with shorter backs — especially those with Polish or Russian breeding. As soon as someone says the breeding, we know we need to get a wide tree saddle. Owners can take the measurement of the withers and the topline so we know if we need a wide or extra wide tree. The wither measurement is most important unless you have a horse with an unusual topline. Generally, the only medium and medium-wide

trees we sell go to endurance riders as they have very fit, The Arabian Saddle Company’s Louisville athletic horses.”

Ultra cutback saddle is popular with saddle seat riders due to its flexible tree, adjustDespite the able stirrup bars and variety of seat sizes. need to know what type of tree a horse requires, there’s not a need for a truly customized saddle.

“You can find something that fits the horse and fits you.

You just need to know what you are looking for — it can be something that fits your horse but might fit other horses too. Make sure it fits level, the tree is wide enough and that it doesn’t rub the horse,” says dressage trainer Jamie Lawton.

A flap length of 16 inches is standard for most English saddles, but depends on the rider’s height. The flap should hit mid-calf so that the rider has contact with the horse.

English saddle sizes are measured from the front button to the back of the cantle, while western saddle seat size is determined by the distance between back of the pommel to the cantle.

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Fit the Horse “I’m a believer of fitting the saddle to both the horse and rider — a saddle may feel great to you at a shop but may not feel good on the horse. You fit it to the horse

find the right saddle for the right fit

Saddle Up by molly a. benstein

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A saddle tree.

Flocking wool added or removed from saddle panels can create a customized fit.

When It’s a Western Saddle

How to Choose a Saddle for You and Your Horse

By Bob Hailey

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tree has four components: the swell (front), cantle and the left and right bars. The four pieces connect to make a tree. The swell and cantle do not affect the way the saddle fits — they give you an appearance that is associated with the different events. The bars are what must fit your horse so the horse can produce the maneuvers you require him to perform.

I believe we would all agree that a bar should not be tight on the shoulders. I like to see the bar lay close to the horse’s back. Bars are generally 3 to 4 inches apart so the spine has room to flex. If the tree is too wide in the front, it will not sit down in the back. When you cinch your horse, the saddle should pull down in the front and back. If it pops up in the back, the tree is too wide. Or there could be too much twist or rocker in the bar. Every bar has a twist. The twist is created by the front bar, which is angled to fit the shoulder then twists to sit along the back.

Saddle manufacturers have many of the original trees created in the early days. Through time, the original patterns have changed along with changes in breeds and body types. So, an Arizona bar made by one manufacturer could be different than another’s because of where and when they acquired it.

At Bob’s Custom Saddles, we have several bar patterns designed to accommodate the horses and the riding skills they perform. When I work with a customer, I always have several trees to try on the customer’s horse.

The trees correspond with the performance they excel in. I like to see the bar slightly open in the shoulder and along the back. Sometimes I will see a little bulging. It does not concern me because it can be taken up with the manufacturing of the saddle, skirting or sheepskin. I do want the saddle to carry the rider’s weight front and back. That takes the pressure off the back when the horse is loping.

After we determine the best tree for the horse we then proceed to design the saddle. We have many different styles of saddles or looks. So we can design a saddle and seat that will work with the bars to produce a custom saddle.

It is important in selecting a saddle to get the right size. The fit is between the back of the swell and the front of the cantle behind the thigh. I like to see two fingers between the back of the swell and the front of the thigh. This is done with the rider’s leg hanging straight down — not stiff, but with some bend. When the leg is straight down, with a slight bend behind the knee, this puts the rider in the center. At the center position, it is as close to riding bareback and is in line with the horse’s girth line. Our saddles are designed for this position.

From center, riders can adjust where and how they sit by adjusting the stirrups. n Bob’s Custom Saddles, (480) 948-2481, bobscustomsaddles.com.

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Arabians may do well with western saddles that have shorter or slightly rounded skirts so the saddle does not rest on the horse’s flanks.

and then, within reason, the rider adjusts to the saddle. If you have multiple horses, you need to fit the saddle to the widest one and then you can use one of the many wonderful pads out there to fit it to the others,” says Steve Lovatt.

Dale Brown of Rentz, Georgia, has trained western and hunter pleasure for the last 25 years and has a saddle system he likes for his Arabians and Half-Arabians. “A reputable saddler will help you find a good saddle for your horse. I have five work saddles that I use day in and day out on every horse in my barn. I prefer the inverted “U” as opposed to the “A” frame style as it distributes the rider’s weight throughout the saddle in a smooth line along the horse’s back as opposed to a sharp line of contact that may put unnecessary pressure on the ribs or flank on both sides of the spine.

We then use the Navajo natural fiber pad and place a neoprene pad on top that has holes cut out along the back and withers. This has left me without back problems on our horses for the last 11 years. Prior to that, I used synthetic fiber pads and had horses with sore backs or fungus. Natural fibers can be thrown in the washing machine at the end of the day and start again fresh the next day.”

In addition to comfort, the fit of a

saddle affects both the performance of the horse and rider — either working for or against the motion of the horse.

“You need to allow for communication between the horse and rider, otherwise the saddle is just an obstruction,” explains Lovatt.

When Brown sees a flat topline on his western horses he takes a close look at the saddle. “One of my riders had a saddle that was too narrow and had a terrible time keeping her horse collected. She’d get 10 strides in, and then you would see his hocks start to go back, his neck lower, his shoulder drop and his topline flatten out while he got faster and faster. I want to see the horse’s back nice and round.”

“The comfort of the horse’s back is such a huge point of attention. As soon as their back gets sore you lose the roundness in their back and the whole performance suffers. For example, a saddle with a downward profile will lead to back discomfort, which will make them hollow out their backs and keep them from fully engaging their hind legs,” says longtime English pleasure trainer and Arabian English Performance Association director Johnny Ryan.

When a saddle is not an exact match for a horse, it may be possible to adjust the tree or change the flocking in panels to improve the fit. Contact the saddle manufacturer to see if the tree can be altered or adjusted before trying to make any changes. Lawton recommends working with a saddler to see if the flocking in the panels can be shifted to make the saddle fit more precisely. “You can do quite a bit with flocking to adjust the fit as many saddles have a slit in the panels to add or move the wool. If a saddle is at an angle, you can move more flocking to the back to get it to fit more level. Manufacturers recommend evaluating your saddle every six months as the flocking gets packed

down over time, and your horse may change shape slightly as their top line develops and becomes more muscular.

I like to go with a wider tree and fill in with more wool flocking if needed.

Any extra cushioning added still needs to leave the panels soft with room for compression — you don’t want to fill them so they become hard and tight.”

Fit the Rider While a number of different saddles may fit the horse, there may only be one or two that give the rider the seat he or she needs. Seat sizes, flap lengths, seat width and adjustable stirrup bars are ways that riders can customize a saddle for their needs.

The largest variable is seat size, which is measured differently for different types of saddles. A rider may need a 16-inch seat for western pleasure but require a 22-inch seat when riding country English pleasure. The measurements differ based on how the rider sits in each type of saddle.

Ryan explains, “The saddle size relates more to the size and length of a person’s thigh as opposed to a person’s overall size. I’m 6 feet tall and ride in a 22-inch saddle; my wife is 5-foot3-inches and also needs a 22-inch seat. We both need the same seat as it has to do with the length of our leg.

Another consideration is the position of the stirrup bars as it changes the rider’s position. We were at a show and talked to a rider about her leg position and suggested a bigger saddle.

Leg position affects many things and gives the rider balance. If a rider is not in balance, she will land much harder on the horse’s back.”

“I find that the depth and width of the saddle makes the difference for the rider,” says Brown. “People may say they can’t feel the horse or that the saddle is too bulky so they may like a narrower seat. They get used to a

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specific type and have a hard time changing. Some people use the saddle as a “crutch” as opposed to finding their seat and balance. There is a difference between braced and forced in the saddle and sitting like a bump on a log. Right between the two is what you want. I prefer riders to hang relaxed, in unison with the horse, as opposed to wrapping their legs around the horse.”

“We are saddle makers with different options,” says Steve Lovatt.

“Usually riders talk to their trainer about what will help their riding.

Some people like to feel locked in their saddle while others like more movement in the saddle. It is entirely a personal choice. When it is fitted properly, you forget about the equipment and work to enjoy your ride or improve your riding.”

The Correct Size Jamie Lawton and Intermediare I dressage stallion Tuxedo Thyme ABA++++// (Pyro Thyme SA x SMA Alad Khelima), owned by Barb Suvaka, demonstrate the easiest way to take saddle measurements and determine if a saddle fits.

“Some saddle companies have different ways of measuring and different measurements that they want. Usually the width over the withers is the most important measurement. You can send tracings and photos so they have an idea of your horse’s conformation,” says Lawton who spent two years as a custom saddle fitter.

1. The supplies needed to measure the horse include a flexible curve tool or bendable wire, a measuring tape, paper or a manila folder and a marker. A flexible curve is easier to use than a wire and can be found with drafting supplies in most office supply stores. To measure points on a saddle, use a fabric tape measure.

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2. Make sure the horse stands squared

so that his shoulder is straight and his back is not curved to one side.

Start with the withers measurement.

Locate the point of the horse’s shoulder and position the center of the wire or flexible curve approximately two fingers behind the point of the shoulder. Center the curve at the highest point of the withers, and then shape it to the contour of the horse.

3. Lay the curve on the folder and

trace the inside with a marker to obtain a map of the horse’s withers.

4. Take the back measurement by

placing the curve across the horse’s topline so that it goes over the highest point of the withers and runs the length of the back.

5. Lay the curve on the same folder

and trace the horse’s topline.

6. The patterns can now be used to

compare to different saddle trees.

The contours of the saddle should follow the tracing made of the withers.

7. a) When the tree is the correct

size for the horse, there should be clearance of one to three fingers.

7. b) When the tree is too narrow, the tree will pinch the base of the withers, which leaves an excess amount of room under the pommel.

8. The front of the saddle should sit

slightly behind the shoulder so the horse’s movement is not inhibited.

9. A saddle that fits properly should

rest level on the horse’s back without padding.

Jamie Lawton grew up around horses as the son of USDF gold medalist Yvonne Barteau and spent part of his youth as a performer at the Arabian Nights Dinner Theater. He continues to be a fixture on the Arabian sport horse circuit.