Archibald Men - Spring 2015 by ArchibaldMen

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ISSUE 2 | VOLUME 1 SPRING 2015

THE NEW ATS-V D A R E - G R E AT LY. C A

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IT IS BETTER TO FAIL IN ORIGINALITY THAN T O S U C C E E D I N I M I T A T I O N — H E R M A N M E LV I L L E

PROFUMO

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THE NEW INTENSITY |

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A JOURNEY THROUGH TIME – WITH RIMOWA The 1920s marked the beginning of modern air travel and the golden age of Hollywood. In 1919, Hugo Junkers presented the A R C H I B A L D M E N . C O M | S P R I N G 2 0 1 5 world’s first all-metal commercial aircraft. It was made using the aircraft aluminum alloy discovered by Alfred Wilm in 1906. In 1950, RIMOWA presented its suitcase with the unmistakable grooved design made of the same material – at the time, it was the lightest suitcase in the world. RIMOWA was a real pioneer in the sector, starting the trend for lightweight luggage back then. 2

RIMOWA STORE TORONTO: 101| BLOOR ST W SUITE # 101 S P R I N G 2 0 1 5 (ENTRANCE ON ST THOMAS ST.) PHONE: (416) 922-2644 www.rimowa.com

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editorial Executive Editor Sarah Wright Deputy Editor Michael Reyes

fashion editorial Fashion Editor Kirsten Reader Senior Stylist Jennifer Choy

Special Thanks To Elite Model Management Page One Management Sutherland Models Harry Rosen Holt Renfrew CarbonBar Loding MenEssentials.ca shopmasc.com Photography Contributors Alex Maxim Carlos Bolivar Vanessa Heins

Production Assistants Laly Felix Brooke Yerxa

art & photography Art Director & Designer Antonio Pendones Director of Photography Tishan Baldeo

founding partners Co- Founder & Creative Director Garrett Tonge Co- Founder & Publisher Gustavo Reid

Advertising + Sponsorship Opportunities + Event Coverage contact@archibaldmen.com Correspondance Suite 420 100-2 Toronto Street Toronto, Ontario M5C 2B5 contact@archibaldmen.com ARCHIBALD MEN is published quarterly. ARCHIBALD MEN is independently owned. Opinions expressed in ARCHIBALD MEN are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher of advertisers. ARCHIBALD MEN does not assume liability for content. All rights reserved. ÂŠ ARCHIBALD MEN. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. For reproduction request email us at contact@archibaldmen.com.

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@archibaldmen archibaldmen.com

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Grooming Products to help you save face this season

regenerate skin in 4 straight forward steps

Daily Grind Essential items for every manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s closet

Fragrances

PATRICK J. ADAMS

One suit is not enough

The Scent of Spring Fresh designer fragrances for the new season

How to Wear a Wild Suit And Not Look Wild

Calisthenic Physique Pick Yourself Up

Up-Close & Personal Handcrafted Footwear A dyeing art

San Francisco Through the Lens of HBOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Silicon Valley

Refresh Your Cocktail A Modern Twist on the Classic Tom Collins

Unspoilt Glory Bespoke Eco-lodge balances luxury and Rustic Charm

Contents

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Gustavo Reid

Garrett Tonge

@Gusreid

@Gtonge1

letter from the founders The moment that you’ve been longing for all winter is here, right in front of you. You can feel it, you can smell it. Finally, it’s spring. It’s “primavera”. In this, our second issue, we’ve been inspired by all things bespoke. At its roots, the term derives from “to speak for something” ... communicating with intent. Suddenly the word is everywhere. But just like the word itself, its meaning is tailor-made. Handcrafted. Custom. The ultimate luxe. It is something created to be uniquely yours, whether updating your favourite shoes with a distinguished patina, creating a suit tailored to your exact size and style, or - like Patrick J. Adams - forging your own path while following your passion. Beyond the rack, bespoke can also be a way of life. The ultimate expression of individuality. From customizing a fitness regime to discovering what fragrance truly expresses your essence, the change of season is the perfect excuse to transform into your best self. Don’t be afraid to stand out in a crowd. Whether you’re looking to make a few tweaks or considering a full lifestyle overhaul, there is something for you on every page of this issue. ArchibaldMen. Lifestyle for the genuine and brave.

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101 Yorkville Ave., Suite 12B Toronto 416.901.3634 / axeandhatchet.com

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Five Essential Apps for the Modern Man

If simplification is the ultimate sophistication, you need these apps to eliminate the unnecessary, increase your efficiency and streamline your busy day to day. You’re welcome.

Culture Crawl: Art Local

If sub-zero temperatures forced you into cultural hibernation then it’s time to get up, out and inspired by the arts. Discover events and exhibitions in Toronto and New York, preview artwork, films, theatre and more directly from your phone. Confirm dates and book tickets for first-rate, original events and discover the best of the arts that your city has to offer.

Inbox Assistant: Mailbox

There is no experience more liberating than achieving the elusive Inbox Zero. This mailbox app allows you to ruthlessly cut through the clutter, archiving or trashing e-mails with one quick swipe. Not ready to reply? “Snooze” away e-mails that don’t require immediate attention and avoid the weight of an unruly inbox.

Customized Commerce: frank & oak

There is no shame in needing a little help to spruce up your spring wardrobe. Luckily, fashion brand and retailer Frank & Oak brings premium personalized shopping to your pocket. Browse Editor’s Picks for head-to-toe looks on-the-go, access original lifestyle content (including sweet SoundCloud playlists) and join the member’s only Hunt Club for exclusive access to Crate, monthly collections curated by Style Advisors and shipped to you to try on at home. The app is easy to navigate, and its crisp clean aesthetic makes it the perfect accessory to any Frank & Oak suit.

Spend Smart: MINT

Spring-cleaning should include tidying your finances. The moneymanaging Mint App helps you monitor your transactions and (gulp!) shows just how much you are spending in each category of your budget. Use it to set personal financial goals and stay on top of purchases in real time. The only con – one beer over budget and you’ll receive an instant text message. With Mint, there is no hiding your head in the sand…or picking up your friends’ tab.

Real time sports coverage: The Score

Stay on top of the NFL, NHL, MLS, NBA and all of your other favourite major sports leagues with this award-winning app. Can’t make the big game? Highlights are streamed in real time updating scores, penalties and more in mere seconds. Upcoming games, live scores and breaking news for all of your favourite leagues and teams are pushed directly to your ‘TODAY’ screen so you never miss another win or search for another score. #winning

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Grooming

Products to help you save face this season

1 / JABRA - SOLEMATE MAX Wireless Portable Speaker

Max is packing some wireless power. This speaker delivers a top quality sound experience with crisp hi-fidelity sound you would expect from his larger competitors, and even comes with an easy-to-carry built-in handle. Max looks great at home but is rugged enough to go outdoors for long hours.

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thesource.ca

2 / ANTHONY Ingrown Hair Treatment

Its glycolic acid formula exfoliates and removes dead skin cells. Soothes razor burns and inflammation. Reduces post-shave redness and razor bumps. Use it, but don’t abuse it.

shopmasc.com

3 / FELLOW BARBER COMPLETE TEXTURE PASTE

Tame your wavy locks or hold your straight style in place. This Complete Texture Paste adds texture, without adding weight. It’s even light enough to use to keep your beard under control. fellowbarber.com

4 / LUSH - KALAMAZOO Beard and Facial Wash

Created for the bearded gentleman. Gently removes dead skin cells and deep cleanses facial hair leaving softness and hints of pineapple and orange;

both ingredients are known to have skin repairing properties. lush.ca 5 / JACK BLACK Intense Therapy Lip Balm

With Vitamin E, black tea and green tea extract and SPF25, penetrates quickly providing instant relief. Delivers antioxidants while protecting your lips from sun damage. shopmasc.com

6 / TRIUMPH & DISASTER A+R Soap

The almond milk and oat flakes combination makes this soap gentle

enough to soothe your skin without drying it out, making A+R soap perfect to use as part of your morning routine or after the pool. shopmasc.com 7 / BAXTER Clay Mask

Detoxifying face mask features bentonite and kaolin clay to remove impurities, and botanical extracts like avocado oil and aloe vera to soothe and hydrate. Skin is smooth and revitalized in less than ten minutes. shopmasc.com

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11 / PRZMAN Mane Man Beard Oil

This blend of nutrient rich and grease free oils is formulated to be quickly absorbed deep beneath the beard. Softens and hydrates hair follicles to their core, leaving your beard fresh and soft. manhoodtv.com

12 / FELLOW BARBER Complete Shampoo

The sulfate free, mild conditioning formula will deep cleanse your hair without removing its natural oils. Fellow Barber Complete Shampoo is ideal for daily use. fellowbarber.com

13 / BIOTHERM HOMME Total Recharge Eye

The perfect complement to the face gel, this fast and furious roller makes puffy eyes a thing of the past. biotherm.ca

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14 / DERMATOLOGICA Environmental Control Deodorant

Always stay in the clear with this odour-neutralizing, essential oil-based deodorant. Ideally suited for even the most sensitive of men’s skin. dermatologica.ca

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15 / CLARINS After Sun Moisturizer Self-Tanning

You and your girl need this, perfect to prevent lobster skin after a day or two in the sun. Made with watermelon and mimosa tenuiflora extracts, this lotion will soothe, hydrate and regenerate skin, extending those ray days that much longer. clarins.ca

8 / VEERAPPAN Mustache Wax

Looking to twist your debonair facial hair? Well there’s nothing better than wax for that. Wax will make whiskery kisses all the more memorable. Use a dab to style your twisted moustache tips, or on a full beard for a softening and sculpting effect, even on unruly fluff. No facial hair? No problem. Veerappan works wonders to soften split ends too! lush.ca

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9 / BIOTHERM HOMME Total Recharge Gel

Get healthy looking skin instantly. This gel gives skin a refreshed, healthy glow with a subtle tanned effect. Remember to get it before Vegas. biotherm.ca 10 / LUSH - GRASS Shower Gel

16 / POLISH BY DR. ROEBUCKS Is it a scrub? Is it a Mask? Or is both?

Either way it should be part of your four step skin care routine during spring. Trust us, not only you will love this all natural stuff – the Aussies swear by it.

murale.ca

With an earthy morning grass fragrance, you’ll start your day refreshed and energized. Made with fresh antioxidant wheatgrass juice, to refresh, cleanse, and nourish your skin. lush.ca

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REGENERATE SKIN IN 4 STRAIGHT FORWARD STEPS.

M any men neglect their skin unaware that a few daily rituals can drastically improve skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s appearance and halt the degenerating effects of aging. Compared to women, men have thicker skin that holds more collagen, making the most basic attempt at preventing wrinkles, imbalances, and sluggishness particularly effective. As the seasons change so should your skin care regimen. With the spring season bringing a much needed mix of sun and humidity, updating your daily routine will help your skin adapt to the changing elements and reveal a healthy, vibrant and virile appearance. Taking care is important; it is the bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest organ after all.

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PERFECT PURIFIER

The key to choosing a beneficial cleanser is to find one that doesn’t strip away the skin’s natural essential oils (otherwise known as sebum) which you’re able to use both day and night. Typically, a cleanser that uses Sodium Laureth Sulfate opposed to Laurel Sulfate strips less oil from the skin, avoiding skin problems such as over drying or promoting excess sebum production. (Find out your skin type at ArchibaldMen.com)

For men who are active on a daily basis or exposed to the sun frequently, daily protection is recommended. It’s important to keep in mind that daily use can clog pores resulting in break outs. Opt for a sun protector that is non-comedogenic, and contains both UVA and UVB protection. Keeping the skin protected, especially as the sun’s UV rays become stronger is an important element for preventing wrinkles and ageing skin damage.

EXPERT EXFOLIATION

Exfoliating is an easy way to eliminate the buildup of dead skin, residue, pollutants and excess salt on the surface of the skin while also helping to clean out the skin’s pores. The regenerating effects of exfoliators allow better absorption of key ingredients in skin care products, accelerating the benefits of cell regeneration and skin nourishment. An exfoliator should be used no more than three times per week. Remember to consider the environmental impact of plastic, polypropylene and polyethylene beads in many types of exfoliators and opt to remain a responsible consumer by choosing products with naturally sourced particles such as volcanic sand, almond shells, ground brown rice or bamboo, oatmeal and dead sea salt.

LIFESTYLE LOTION

TURN BACK THE CLOCK

Many of the latest men’s grooming products are focusing on valid concerns related with ageing such as the increased amount of wrinkles on a neglected face. Use a night cream that includes an anti-wrinkle agent directly following Step 1 and Step 3. Prevention is always most beneficial at night time when skin cells are actively regenerating and when the muscles on the face are most relaxed.

ARCHIBALDMEN GROOMING – EDITOR’S PICK Double-Duty Face Moisturizer SPF 20 with Blue Algae Extract & Sea Parsley Its non-oily formula is light enough for everyday use. It not only works as a moisturizer, it also protects you from the sun and helps keep your skin looking younger longer. The blue algae extract and antioxidants like the Certified Organic Edelweiss and Plantago Leaf Extracts, mixed with the SPF makes for the perfect dual duty while reducing redness. It’s the weapon your arsenal needs, always. Get it at: menessentials.ca

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Daily Grind

Stutterheim Swedish Melancholy at its Driest Inspired by the discovery of his grandfatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s raincoat in an abandoned barn, Alexander Stutterheimâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s classic coat design will revolutionize your relationship with rain. Now there is no excuse not to be well dressed even in the worst weather. Handmade by artisanal seamstresses in Stockholm, the classic cut and minimalist aesthetic elevates rubberized cotton into a staple piece for the fashion forward and the everyday man.

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Breitling Light Body B04S for Bentley British Chic meets Swiss Tradition Keep your momentum going with the B04S, a high performance collaboration between technical watch specialist Breitling and luxury carmaker Bentley. The ultra-light titanium case and sporty exterior echo the aesthetics of the high-end automaker, including a bezel inspired by Bentley’s signature radiator grilles. Its unique dual time zone display powered by a self-winding chronograph “engine” (chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) makes this the ideal watch for a man driven by class and boldness.

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ragrance is the first layer of every outfit and subconsciously sets the tone of your day. The biggest mistake you can make is sticking to one â&#x20AC;&#x153;signatureâ&#x20AC;? scent all year round. Your apparel cycles seasonally and so should your favourite fragrance. That means itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to trade in that heavy musk for something that reflects the freshness of the spring season. Body heat helps to intensify and diffuse the scent, so dab

cologne on pulse points such as wrists and behind the ears. Avoid rubbing as this will create friction which can cause the fragrance to break down too quickly. Since fragrance rises, applying cologne to the back of your knees and ankles will also help keep you smelling fresher, longer (perfect for when your spring social calendar fills up). Your personal body chemistry and skin type are also an important factor in fragrance, because moisture and PH levels will affect how colognes will react to your skin. Those with naturally oily skin will notice they hold the fragrance longer, while those with dry skin may have an issue with longevity. Applying directly to your skin (and not to your favorite suit) allows fragrances to interact with your natural odours and pheromones, creating your own personal aroma. Whether you keep it classic or experimental this season, make sure to choose the scent that is distinctly you.

Chanel Allure Homme Sport Holt Renfrew, thebay.com 100ml $120

Jacques Polge introduced Chanel Allure Homme Sport five years after Allure Homme came to be known as the signature fragrance of the Chanel man. A base composed of sensual white musk and tonka beans gives it a distinctive scent that transcends seasons and memories. The strength of the ingredients appeals to spring time virility while lively Madagascar black pepper and cedar exude a strong sensuality.

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Acqua di Giò Profumo Sephora 125ml $173

This fresh citrus scent evokes the crisp breeze of a Calabrian grove. Green tangerine and neroli gradually grows deeper, helped by the rose, rosemary, jasmine petal, persimmon and Indonesian patchouli. Based on Acqua di GiÒ developed in the late nineties by FiFi Award winning master perfumer Alberto Morillas, this new fragrance will become a seductively iconic scent for this time of year, especially for the effortless man.

Gentlemen Only Casual Chic Nordstrom.com, Sephora 100ml $113

Woody, spicy and fresh describes Casual Chic, the latest fragrance in the Gentlemen Only line from Givenchy. Cardamom, ginger and juniper give this scent its first energizing burst, with cedar wood, sandalwood and ambroxan defining the casual, relaxed aroma. Givenchy Gentlemen Only Casual Chic reflects an easy-going man with magnetic charm.

Joseph Abboud

Moores, JosephAbboud.com 100ml $82 Joseph Abboud has launched his first eponymous fragrance. As a modern take on the traditional men’s fougère, this scent combines an invigorating blend of fresh citrus and bamboo with accents of lavender, geranium and sage, and closes with guaiac woods, moss and clean musky tones. This artfully masculine fragrance embodies the passion and confidence of the man in the boardroom, classic and sophisticated.

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Patrick J. Adams One Suit is not enough. words by jennifer choy photography by vanessa heins styling by kirsten reader

Actor Patrick J. Adams has become widely popular since landing his acclaimed role on the hit USA Network legal drama, Suits. Today, Adams has also mastered the role of casual diner, inconspicuously camouflaged by the hungry restaurant goers enjoying Terroniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s epicurean delicacies. Trading in his character Mike Rossâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; suit and signature skinny tie for a more incognito pea coat, backpack and laid back appearance gives him the air of a Queen Street West regular.

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Shirt and Jacket Frank & Oak

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Suit, Shirt and tie Suitsupply Sunglasses Blake Kuwahara Boots Rudsak

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he legal drama has amassed over

be helpful and productive and healthy at times but

six hundred thousand Instagram

it can also be a little destructive. I think that taking

followers and a legion of fans

my camera out into the world or stepping behind

worldwide, but Adams retains

the camera in a directing capacity gives me the

a decidedly humble demeanor.

ability to balance that and step outside myself and

The Toronto-born actor exudes

interact with other people.” This intimate reflection

charisma, which has popularized

describing why actors need to explore alternate

both him and his character on Suits. Recently, New

passions may very well be precisely why crowds

Yorkers had a chance to enjoy a photography exhibit

have been attracted to glimpse Adams’ life on the

titled “Behind the Lens” cataloguing life on the set

set of his hit network series.

of Suits, a personal project that revealed another

one of Adams’ talents and creative potential.

to date? Adams’ directorial debut in season

We have to wonder if Adams is following in

four’s “Derailed” episode. The gifted actor and

the footsteps of actors like Jeff Bridges who have

photographer now has plans to direct his first short

adopted the craft and given critics a real reason to

film this summer and admittedly, he’s not sure

take him seriously as a photographer. When asked

what to expect.

what inspired his foray from acting to photography

and directing, Adams effortlessly replies: “I’m in a

like having the responsibility of having to direct.

transition period where I’m not really sure where

The difference, he explains is that as an actor, “one

the emphasis is but I know it’s creative and I know

falls right into place in a thing that’s already created

it’s based in storytelling.”

and the look and feel is already totally designed.”

Needless to say, Adams is excited to learn whether

“I’ve been a shutterbug for quite some time,

having picked up the hobby early on in my youth.”

The young actor’s most challenging project

According to Adams, being an actor is nothing

he is capable of being a good director.

But his newfound notoriety as a photographer

For someone who wanted to excel at everything

doesn’t mean he plans to put the brakes on his

he pursued, it seems logical that Adams wants to

progressing career. In fact, he sees acting and

keep the same determination in all the realms of

photography as symbiotic, and complimentary.

his artistic life.

Adams expands “…they balance each other

“It’s hard to know if I’ll ever get to a moment in my

because the more I capture images or develop some

life where I’m just doing one thing and it’s probably

sort of personal visual aesthetic in my photography,

bad,” he laughs. “I should just pick a thing and stick

the new found creative expression will inspire me

to it but I get kind of restless, or maybe I’m restless

to develop new forms of expression in my other

because I haven’t found my one thing.”

creative outlets.”

Still, he insists his career path is up in the air.

Distinguishing the fame and celebrity that

Which is exciting for the fans that he constantly

comes with acting with the true art and skill it

surprises with interesting new projects; offering

takes to develop oneself as a fine actor is also an

insight into his complex thought process. When

element that requires constantly challenging the

asked about the possibility of another photography

creative process and tapping into new forms of

exhibit and a potential theme, his excitement

creative expression. Adams adds, “acting is such

is palpable. What seemingly drives Adams in

an individual process. The work you do as an actor

his current creative and professional life is

at home to get yourself ready for a day of work is

demonstrating that aside from the spectacle and

very lonely and inside yourself. You do a lot of

glamorization of acting as a career, an art and

soul searching and moving through your sense of

a trade, it’s also a job which is “no different than

memory. It’s a lot of time in your head, which can

going to an office.” >>>

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Adams has a dignified way of bringing the

conventional assumptions of Hollywood back down to Earth, both for himself and for his fans.

Fame is something he accepted as a welcome

testament that his work is well received and that the projects he is affiliated with, such as the impressive success of Suits, are enjoyed by audiences all over the world.

As we wrapped up our conversation, Adams’

genuine appreciation for his work and his desire to never stop seeking creative inspiration comes across as endearing and respectable. He decides to confide that the thing he is currently most excited about is directing this short film. “I’m terrified of it,” he admits. “It could be a total disaster but it’s going to be the first opportunity in a long time where I have full control over something from the beginning and I get to make decisions and see how they pan out.”

It’s been said that the only true failure is when

one stops trying.

Jacket Suitsupply Shirt Rag & Bone at Holt Renfrew Jeans Rag & Bone at Holt Renfrew Boots Patrick’s own

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Suit Ted Baker Shirt Zadig et Voltaire at Holt Renfrew Tie Title of Work

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“You do a lot of soul searching and moving through your sense of memory.”

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Jacket Calvin Klein Shirt The Kooples at Holt Renfrew Jeans Rag & Bone at Holt Renfrew Tie Title of Work Belt Patrickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own Boots Rudsak

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“Acting is such an individual process.”

Suit Ted Baker Shirt Zadig et Voltaire at Holt Renfrew Tie Title of Work

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HOW TO WEAR A

Wild Suit

AND NOT LOOK WILD*

*Well, maybe a little wild.

The wild suit is having a moment. Confidently risking labels such as “flamboyant”, “loud”, and “wild”, the bold-patterned suit is creeping its way into boardrooms, cocktail parties and on a street near you. Whatever the reason, men are feeling empowered to take bigger risks and make louder statements with their suits than they have in recent decades.

photography by vanessa heins

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his trend isn’t a new phenomenon. There is a long and rich tradition of men rocking extravagant clothes. In 17th century Rococo France, men expressed themselves through flamboyant floral waistcoats. Ornate men in 18th century England wore powdered wigs and frilly shirts. Heck, in the 1920’s men considered the color pink to be the height of masculinity and sported it robustly. Yet, the recent history of bold suits has been, um, checkered. It has been adopted as the wardrobe of choice by magicians, prop comics and even seduction artists. It has also been considered too tacky, too gaudy and often times, too attentionseeking. At times it has been guilty of all those crimes. The reality is that the “wild” suit is by its nature, an attention-seeking garment. But what’s the harm in seeking a little spotlight every now and then? Counter to popular belief, clothing wasn’t invented to protect us from the elements – its origins are rooted in communication and expression, and this is evident in the earliest known clothing items in human history. For today’s courageous man, wearing an eclectic suit can be a delicate art – one with pitfalls and tremendous upside potential. The key to pulling it off comes down to a few simple tenets. A bunching ankle or sagging crotch will only contribute to the impression of being in poorly selected outfits acquired over the internet. On the other hand, a flattering, trimming fit will always demand some degree of respectability. When it comes to colour, be conscious of your own natural “palette”. A fair or pale complexion will be washed out further by saturated colours in your suit. On the other hand, a darker complexion can work well with contrasting patterns (hello polka-dots!) Finally, when it comes to pattern, how bold should one go? Well, that is the million-dollar question than can only truly be answered by the man wearing the suit. Ultimately, the loudness of one’s suit must be proportionate to the degree of confidence one feels when sporting it. At its best, an eclectic suit should communicate to the world

that the wearer is a confident risk taker, and maybe just bold enough to do something remarkable. There is always an element of danger in wearing something outside the box – and others will take notice. But a word of caution: mix patterns at your own risk. When getting dressed, it’s advisable to limit your attire to a single loud item. If that item is your emboldened suit, it might be best to let the piano key tie sit this one out.

ABOUT THE WRITER Canadian Jonas Bell Pasht is a Los Angeles-based television and film producer who has a knack for getting dressed. He has created series for the Esquire Network, GQ and is the executive producer and host of the upcoming WEIRD THREADS, which explores subcultures of style. The series premieres on Fusion in April.

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HOW TO WEAR A

T H E D ETA I L S

Wild Suit

THE FABRIC Who’s to say what sort of material is or isn’t appropriate for a suit? Jonas sourced this particular fabric from a vintage upholstery store in Los Angeles and Toronto-based suit maker Garrisson Bespoke had it converted into a suit.

THE FIT If nothing else, get the fit right. The silhouette should be trimming and hug the body. Suit sleeves should reveal a sliver of shirt cuff.

THE TICKET POCKET In the olden days, the ticket pocket was where a gentleman would carry one’s train ticket. These days, it’s just another pocket on the jacket - but including it in a custom suit is also a nice nod to the past.

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CUFFLINKS Avoid shiny, showy cufflinks. Rummage through a vintage store and pick out a pair of cufflinks that have some personality. Jonas found these leather and brass cufflinks at the Rose Bowl Flea Market in Pasadena, California.

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THE PANT LEG A poorly-tailored trouser leg is the most common mistake men make. When it comes to suiting, the silhouette is key – and this is especially true with a bold-patterned suit. A long, bunching ankle in particular will always come off comical. Keep the pant leg narrow and try to minimize break at the ankles. THE SHOES When pairing shoes with a bold-patterned suit, keep them neutral and simple. A plain white buck – like the ones Jonas is wearing here – are a classic staple, and a great option for spring or summer. And don’t worry about scuffs: clothes should look lived in!

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HOW TO WEAR A

T H E D ETA I L S

Wild Suit

THE DETAILS Yes, detail matters â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but less is more when it comes to the wild suit. A plain pocket square is a must (what else do you think that pocket is for?). Ties should be plain and bold-coloredâ&#x20AC;Śor left at home altogether.

THE INSIDE While most jackets are made with a silk lining that covers the fabric on the interior of the jacket - an unlined jacket can be a fun way of continuing the party on the inside, while showcasing the workmanship behind a hand-made suit.

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BODY BY CHOSEN CALISTHENIC PHYSIQUE: PICK YOURSELF UP

ith spring comes new promises of rejuvenation, new resolutions, and new plans to look good naked. The surest way to achieve the goals

this spring is to embrace the weight you carry and make it work in your favour. Calisthenics focuses on improving the overall health by encouraging strength building and fitness through the ability to lift one’s own weight. This strategy sees definite results both physically and mentally, with clients motivated by their own body working to achieve the results promised year after year.

Body by Chosen is a local example of how

this trend is being approached to realistically benefit clients. Their tactic is to complement a solid methodology like calesthenics with timeless techniques (e.g. kettlebell, battle ropes) to achieve real and visible results for the client’s beauty and strength objectives. This approach increases body strength, fitness and flexibility with movements such as bending, jumping, swinging, twisting or kicking, using one’s body weight for resistance. Dwayne Delves, founder of this intimate gym, observes that the most important element of calisthenics is that the exercises “motivate and significantly increase confidence in the client resulting in greater commitment.”

Get the body you chose.

Medicine Ball Power Core (Russian Twist) Everybody wants to have a six or even an eight pack, but beyond vanity or aesthetics our core keeps us balanced. A weak core is the cause of numerous health issues. If you want to avoid having back issues, try the Russian twist (image on top). This is a rather advanced ab exercise, but you can start with a few simpler actions: the toe-touch, medicine ball sit up, diagonal crunch, and if you want to extend to other areas the medicine ball makes for a great exercise tool.

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Kettlebell

Used in Russia for ballistic exercises, kettlebell exercises will build up strength and improve posture. Countless studies attribute kettlebell exercises with qualities like increased calorie burn with high muscle development, while providing functional everyday osteo strength.

Kettlebell routines can impact arms, back, legs and core depending on the movement. Actions such as the swing, double swing, single arm press, Turkish get-up or the squat can engage the entire body at once.

Push Ups Traditionally believed to be the most common full body exercise, the push up basically requires a body plank with arms straight and feet together. You go down, and you are done. Right? Think again! The most important thing about a push up besides the straight plank is the â&#x20AC;&#x153;arm angleâ&#x20AC;?. By keeping your elbows closer to your sides at roughly a 20 to 40 degree angle from your body, you are shortening the lever arm, giving your push up an immediate gain. Keep your elbows above your wrist while pushing yourself away from the floor. Also take into consideration that the wider your hand placement, the more you isolate the outer portion of the chest.

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Dips With Parallel Bars This exercise provides a â&#x20AC;&#x153;high return on investmentâ&#x20AC;?, and is often viewed as a strong option to push ups. The difference? Dips target and focus mainly on the lower pecs, the triceps, and frontal deltoids (front shoulder), while the push up targets the upper and middle chest. The biggest benefit obtained from dips is by far the definition of the lower chest area, (which is largely missed by the bench press) as it cuts through the muscle, sculpting it.

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Battle Ropes Using battle ropes as part of a routine can crank up the metabolism and give a shot of testosterone. Why? Because it works each arm individually, eliminating power imbalances while chiseling muscles. Battle rope exercises are a form of high intensity interval training (or HIIT) providing an intense anaerobic and aerobic conditioning ellipticals canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t provide.

Push ups and dips are both great chest exercises, which along with kettlebell training, medicine ball and battle ropes will make a solid starting point for any training routine. The trainers at Body by Chosen (bodybychosen.com) are ready to guide you through choosing what is best for you according to your fitness goals.

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CLOSE & PERSONAL with the most important layers. Shirt Sand Underwear Calvin Klein Socks Yo Sox Bags J. Lindeberg Danier 42

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No longer strictly functional, under clothes infuse personality with bright colours and striking patterns.

Underwear Express Socks Yo Sox

Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re getting dressed or undressed, style starts and ends with a solid foundation.

Stylist Grooming Models

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Jennifer Choy, Judy Inc. Brittany Sinclair, P1M Clement Stevenant & Hernan, Elite Model Management; Aaron Chinn, Sutherland Models

Suit Sand Shirt D Squared Available at Harry Rosen Underwear Calvin Klein Socks Calvin klein Available at Moores

Underwear Calvin Klein Cardigan Express Shorts Sand

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Socks Loding Yo Sox

n u f nd

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Kick boring to the curb. Put a spring in your step with a bold sock in bright colours, polkadots and even animal print.

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Pants Express Belt Express Shirt J. Lindeberg

Shirt The Gap

Socks Loding

Underwear Express Socks Yo Sox

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HANDCRAFTED FOOTWEAR A dyeing art

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estled among the luxury residences of Yorkville, upscale Parisian menswear retailer Loding has one foot firmly planted in the past and another catapulted towards the future of custom footwear.

Established on Paris’s Rue de Berri in 1998 by Michel Gozlan, Loding has since expanded to North America. From shoes to ties, the boutique has become synonymous with accessible luxury. Known for its high-quality, hand-made shirts, shoes and accessories for fixed prices, clients look forward to new arrivals from Paris every month. Loding’s latest French import is Emmanuel Farre, a patina artisan and a “sole” survivor of the lost art of handcrafted shoe making. Despite being new to living in Canada, Farre looks right at home among a kaleidoscope of dyes in saturated hues. These are the tools he uses to revive the lost art of patina, a unique process applied to leather goods by hand painting it to give it a different look. His exclusive workshop, a mahogany desk, blends naturally with the polished interior of Loding’s Yorkville location “Patinas offer men a unique way to style through a customized service. Patinas go beyond the limits of standard fashion, to complement their favourite jackets and ties, and to be extraordinary,” says Emmanuel. “Patinas bring footwear, and all leather goods, off the ground and into the forefront of a man’s wardrobe.” >>>

“Patinas bring footwear, and all leather goods, off the ground and into the forefront of a man’s wardrobe.”

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“Loding’s latest French import is Emmanuel Farre, a patina artisan and a “sole” survivor of the lost art of handcrafted shoe making.”

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He meticulously creates the bespoke footwear following a labour intensive six-step process. After cleaning the shoes and stripping the original dye, Farre begins the painting process – usually four to six layers to create depth – after which he applies shoe cream for pigmentation and to nourish the leather. Leaving his work to dry naturally allows the paint to seal before Farre adds a high gloss polish to finish. The process lasts anywhere from two to six days. Each shoe is as unique as the wearer; Farre’s work fuses the customer’s personality with his own creative flair ensuring that each shoe is as unique as its wearer. Stunning at a distance, one must get up close with the custom blended patina to truly appreciate the subtle details, beautiful shades and artistic colouring. (Hint: If you’re really looking for distinctive, ask about the “Green Hornet”).

The extraordinary process can be applied to any lackluster leather goods – as long as they are tan or light colour base. With spring around the corner, patina is perfect for breathing new life into last season’s scuffed up Versace’s. One cares for patinas the same way one would care for a leather shoe: Every five waxes, use a shoe cream close to the patina colour to maintain shine and colour. Loding retails such products to ensure the longevity of your shoes. Farre’s work is not only preserving worn leather shoes, he’s preserving the traditional craft of bepoke footwear for a new generation of gentlemen. From high-gloss finish to subdued everyday shine, this is the new standard of men’s style.

loding.ca — 133 avenue road and first canadian place

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San Francisco through the lens of HBO’s Silicon Valley by si si penaloza

ur 21st century connectivity is largely a result of San Francisco’s relationship to the technology rush. Cutting edge innovations are the brain child of a young demographic injecting youthful energy to the thriving development of San Francisco’s surrounding area. Silicon Valley is where start ups and lucrative careers at companies such as Google, Facebook and Twitter are increasingly generating a dynamic demographic adding to the unique fabric of San Francisco’s identity. This youthful city has seen a mass migration of bright tech wizards since the beginning of the century and the influx has already left its mark on North American pop culture. One of the latest series on the HBO network is Silicon Valley, an entertaining show chronicling the fictional lives of this new San Francisco demographic. Created by Michael Lannan, Silicon Valley features a group of house mates channeling the dysfunctional humour of life as wealthy twenty-something developers. The characters live the privileged Silicon Valley lifestyle where excess wealth is comically contrasted by the post frat boy experience. The series exposes the humorous lifestyles and the absurd spectacles of contemporary life as a millennial in Silicon Valley. The protagonists of the series also offer audiences a glimpse into what the area has to offer. The latest bars, restaurants, cafes and social venues are visited

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on the show, making San Francisco’s Silicon Valley an attractive travel destination en route to San Francisco’s other hot spots. A great vantage point from which to explore Palo Alto is Aloft Cupertino, a boutique hotel in the heart of Cupertino, minutes away from the Apple Headquarters. The hotel provides amenities one would expect to find in Silicon Valley such as robot butlers. The Tech Museum of Innovation and Intel Museum is also a suggested stop en route to San Jose’s Tesla showroom and Santana Row, a great shopping, dining and historic entertainment district where the area’s residents unwind and play. The TechShop showcases the latest in digital entertainment where technology enthusiasts spend their time mesmerized by the latest adult toys: light sabers, lasers or 3-D printers. After spending an afternoon recreating the Star Wars trilogy, head over to downtown San Jose where business transactions are always taking place over lunch. One of the best places to catch a glimpse of interviews, meetings and negotiations being handled is at Gourmet Haus Staudt, a beloved local watering hole. Here the iPhone prototype was famously “lost and found.” Dinner time is always a similar affair. Deals that were closed over lunch are typically celebrated over dinner at some of the best eateries in town, notably Calafia Café. Google’s first executive chef Charlie Ayers has created an impeccably robust menu at this bustling hotspot, a second home for many Google employees.

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Another thriving area in the vicinity is Oakland, California recently dubbed the “Brooklyn of the West.” A confident culinary, cultural and entertainment district, Oakland is also an incubator for the artistic elements that give Silicon Valley residents exposure to many creative distractions. Artists mostly congregate in Oakland, a result of the affordability of the area and the ample opportunities for employment. Viceroy’s Hotel Zetta in the core of the SOMA district is a quick jaunt to key locations that are not to be missed. It has some of the quaintest cafés in the region like the iconic Café Flore, reportedly serving up the city’s best brunch. Another vanguard of the culinary new wave is veteran chef Alex Ong, alongside rising star Chef Anthony Yang, who cater their more than palatable offerings almost exclusively with Sonoma County’s Idle Winery. In Silicon Valley, we see the Bay Area through the eyes of the area’s young, start up techincians. The comedy is an entertaining glimpse into the thriving surroundings of the technological hub and is a worthwhile destination for those looking to absorb the latest in technological break throughs and experience the valley’s unconventional characteristics while enjoying the best the city has to offer.

REFRESH Y O U R C O C K TA I L

A Modern Twist on the Classic Tom Collins

erhaps you’ve heard of the

In the 17th century American tastes used fruit

gin based classic, the Tom

preserve vinegar instead of citrus to extend the shelf

Collins. Simple marrying

lives of fruits and berries in the off season. After the

of fresh lemon juice, sugar

preserves were consumed, the flavour rich vinegar

water (simple syrup), ice

left behind could be sweetened with sugar or honey

and soda water, served in a

and then reduced into a syrup. This reduction could

tall glass of the same name.

then be used to flavour anything from water to sodas

The origins of the Tom

to cocktails.

Collins, aka the John Collins, have benefitted

from over 165 years confecture, however both are

the use of shrubs in the home obsolete. Drinking

essentially the same recipe. The John Collins was

shrubs however, still add a wonderful complexity and

a basic gin punch served by the head waiter, of the

acidity to the classic Collins.

The invention of refrigeration eventually made

same name, at Limmer’s Pub in London in the 1850’s. The Tom Collins was an adapted recipe using the same ingredients except that Old Tom Gin, a slightly sweeter spirit than London Dry, first appeared in Jerry Thomas’ (the father of classic American mixology) Bar-Tenders Guide, 1876. Both were known as very sophisticated libations, and still hold up today.

There are many contemporary versions of the

‘Collins’ using the same basic formula. The version making a comeback today is the Whiskey Collins. Bourbon Whiskey makes an equally delicious version of this high-ball, adding caramel and vanilla notes.

Selecting a variety of bourbon depends on what

other ingredients are used. Opt to include spring time herbs and essences that stimulate the senses. Thyme, rosemary, mint, tarragon, or dill are excellent examples. Each of these is quite delicate and needs little processing to extract the natural essences.

Lemongrass also adds a spring-time citrus burst

with bold aromatic undertones. The denser fibers, however, require a little more processing. Each of these can be used as a garnish to enhance aromas, and can also be concentrated into sweetened syrup.

Drinking ‘shrubs’ are making a comeback from

the glory days of pre-18th century classic cocktails. 54

Matt Jones @Whisky_Chef A R C H I B A L D M E N . C O M

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Rejuvenate your Whiskey Collins with these great springtime flavours Ginger + Mint + Honey • Lemongrass + Ginger + Agave • Strawberry + Rosemary + Raw Sugar Blackberry + Thyme + Raw Sugar There are different ways to produce shrubs and many online resources. You can macerate (infuse) the fruit with sugar and vinegar for a week which does give a crisper, fresher flavour, or you can expedite the process by heating the flavours in a saucepan and adding the vinegar after.

Basil Hayden’s Blackberry Collins

A very soft and approachable bourbon, Basil Hayden’s has a nice peppery bite with undertones of honey, tea and peppermint. This is enhanced with a Blackberry + Ginger + Honey Shrub.

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1.5 oz Basil Hayden’s 1oz fresh lemon juice 1oz Blackberry + Ginger + Honey Shrub Shake with ice, pour over fresh ice into 10 oz Collins glass. Top with sparkling of your choice, like Perrier. Garnish with fresh lemon wheel and berries.

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Unspoilt

GLORY Bespoke Eco Lodge

Balances Luxury and Rustic Charm

Costa Rica,

one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greenest countries, is where style conscious travellers gravitate to find calm thanks to a growing eco-chic design trend. Disconnecting from a wired existence in exchange for rest and relaxation no longer means sacrificing comfort.

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osta Rica has one of the most diverse and varied climates boasting everything from oceans to jungle, volcanoes to rivers and most importantly, up to ten hours of sunshine a day. For a country whose motto translates as ‘pure life,’ it is not surprising that Costa Rica is leading the eco-tourism industry. In 2007, the Costa Rican government vowed that they would become the first carbon neutral country by 2021 and so far, and according to the ICE (Costarican Institute of Electricity) 2015 has been a totally environmentally friendly year as far as electricity is concern. In order to become a certified ecologically conscious business, and to obtain the Certification for Sustainable Tourism, an establishment must provide proof of social and environmental responsibility. Although this certificate is not mandatory for the use of the term ‘eco-friendly lodge,’ the government of Costa Rica is pushing to implement a regulated accreditation process nationwide, thus increasing environmentally conscious accommodation guidelines. An eco-lodge is the perfect marriage of progressive sustainability and five star comforts that create a unique, unforgettable experience. From former farms to tree houses, beach bungalows to solar powered houses built into the sides of mountains, there will be an eco-lodge that caters to you while simultaneously ensuring that carbon footprints are kept to a minimum. In the middle of the Central American rainforest, near the town of Siquirres, is the Pacuare Jungle Lodge. A luxury accommodation so remote that one of the only ways to get there is a thrilling ride down one of Costa Rica's premier white water rafting rivers, El Rio Pacuare. Thanks to its unique blend of high style and sustainability, the luxury hotel was selected by National Geographic to be amongst 24 of the world’s finest eco-lodges. Surrounded by towering tropical trees, the lodge’s 19 bungalow are designed with minimal visual impact. Dwellings integrate seamlessly into the jungle, giving the impression that the structures are an extension of nature itself. While the organic aesthetic allows the scenery to take center stage it’s the lavish details that rival any five-star metropolitan hotel. Costa Rican locals collected Palm branches from the forest floor before weaving them into the resort’s thatched roofs. Draped in fine Egyptian cottons and framed by teak, the furniture pays homage to the Costa Rican tradition of beautiful hand-crafted wood works. With over 90% of Costa Rica’s energy coming from renewable resources it’s no surprise that the >>>

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Pacuare Lodge uses only organic ingredients in their soap, food and drink, as well as implementing a strict recycling program.

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stone bathrooms are equipped with solar power heated water encourage both indulgence and responsible practices. An inviting hammock hangs just outside the room, lazily suggesting a nap or a dip in the spring fed pool. There is no electricity, instead candles and lamps provide light once the sun dips under the tree lined canopy, adding another level of tranquility to this magical hideaway. Pacuare Lodge uses only organic ingredients in their soap, food and drink, as well as implementing a strict recycling program. A tropical twist on the farm-to-table philosophy optimizes both the diners' culinary experience and the abundant natural offerings of the lodges surroundings. The resort has also initiated programs that rescue and reintroduce howler monkeys into the wild and also manage food, lodging and logistics of their shyest residents, the

jaguars. Even access to the resort is environmentally conscious, with tourists arriving by boat or through infrequent ground transport. This resort is heaven on earth and the perfect example of how Costa Rica is changing the face of tourism. There are countless fantastic examples of how the Costa Rican people are promoting low-impact tourism in the patrimony of their country. Eco-lodges are just one example of the measures Costa Rica is taking to ensure their land is left as pristine as it was found, while promoting peaceful coexistence with nature and a sustainable equilibrium to tourism, clearly a major source of income. They are dedicated to the marriage of development with conservation. Soothing views and striking features elevate the Pacuare Jungle Lodge as an example of perfect harmony: simultaneously fitting in and inconspicuously standing out.

For booking information visit pacuarelodge.com or call toll free 1.800.963.1195

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