2022TbilisiArchitectureBiennial:What’sNext?
Contribution to Publication
TerrainCures:RechoreographingHistoricLandscape basedHealingPracticesontheSadgeri Plateau
SarahColeman
AssistantProfessorofLandscapeArchitecture
AuburnUniversity,Alabama,USA sarah.coleman.places@gmail.com
Introduction
OntheplateausaboveBorjomi,anintricateculturalsystemofrestandhealingliesdormant.Sanatoria oncecomplexinterfacestoconnectthebodywiththelandscape’slatenthealingproperties lieempty,in variousstatesofextremedisrepair AfewofthesestrikingstructureshostIDPs,aonce‘temporary’ stopgap,now20yearsold,todisplacementcausedbythewarsinAbkhazia.Althoughthepresenceofthis history’sbuiltvestigescreateasenseofbeingfrozenintime(ordecay?),thenaturalfeaturesthat prefiguredandenabledthissystempersist animate,dynamic,andchanging.Medicinalmineralwaters distincttoeachvillagestillflowthroughthebasalticmesas,risingtothesurfacewithoutmechanical intervention Respirationofevergreenforestsshapetheclimateandhumidityonceusedtocurelung disordersandtuberculosis.Theseterraincures thepotentialsofbreathingitsair,walkingitsrelief, drinkingitswaters remainembeddedinthelandscape.
Yetcoherencebetweentheseecologicalandculturalartifactshasbeenlost.Thoughspringwatersarestill collectedattheirsourcebyresidentswhoremaininthevillages,visitorsgenerallypassoverthemfor BorjomiorBakurianiduetolackofanydiscernibletourisminfrastructure Ruralandeconomic developmentplanningintheregionismostlynonexistent,andevensmalltouristicenterpriseshavenot yetrecoveredaftertheimpactsofthepandemic
Nonetheless,theBakurianiDevelopmentAgencywillsoonseekproposalsfortherestorationofthe Borjomi Bakurianirailwayanditsstations,oncetheprimarymodeoftransportationforhealthtouriststo reachtheresortsaboveBorjomi.Switchbackingthroughtheplateaus’forestsandacrossitssteepriver gorges,therevitalizationofthe37 kilometerlongkukushkarailwaywilllikelyhaveprofound implicationsforthehistoriclandscapesandvillagesalongitsroute
Onehundred andfifty kilometersnorthwest,Tskaltuboservesasacautionarytaleforthetypesof tourismthattendtoemergeinsuchlandscapes Whilevisitorsromanticizethestrugglebetweennature andcultureamidsttheruinsoftheonce grandsanatoria,Tskaltubo’sresidentsandtheIDPswhonow occupytheresortsdonotenjoytheprivilegewhichwouldallowthemtoaestheticizewhattheyseeas relentlessdecay.Thoughsomesanatoriahavebeensoldtoprivateinvestors,yearslaterplansfor redevelopmentremainvague,leavingTskaltubo’sresidentsinasuspendedstateofprecarity.
Dominantapproachestopreservationfocusonfixingthebuiltfabricofhistoriclandscapes concealing signsofdecayinthearchitecturaltracesofthepast,literallyandmetaphoricallyfreezingsitesinafalse permanence However,asinTskaltubo,manysanatoriaalongtheBorjomi Bakurianirailcorridormaybe beyondrepair.
Thismomentoftransitionalongthekukushkarailwaycorridorcallsforapreciseandsensitiveplanto reintroducetourismtothisculturallandscape,onewhichmightdrawuponthehistoryofthis human environmentsystem Giventheuncertaintythatsurroundsthebuiltfabricofthispast,suchaplan shouldconsiderapproachestotourismthatfocusnotonthepreservationofimpermanentmaterialtraces, butonthecultivationofmemory.Withthisasagoal,suchaplanmightfocus,instead,on rechoreographing historic human landscape relationships Howmightavisitortothislandscapebe guidedthroughexperienceswhichunfoldspatiallyandtemporallyinrelationshiptotheterrain’scurative features?Whatarethepotentialsofreorientingvisitorsinhistoricattitudes,perspectives,andsensations? Andhowmightsuchengagementsrenewtherelevanceoftheseactionsinthepresent,allowingthemto persistbeyondtheimpermanentarchitecturesthatevidencethem?
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WhileBorjomiandBakurianiremainrelativelypopulartouristhubs,smallervillagesthatliebetween thesedestinations,alongthekukushka’sroute Sadgeri,Tba,Tsemi,Libani,Tsagveri tendonlytodraw
asmallnumberofdomesticvisitorsandfamilies.InternationalvisitorstendtopassonlythroughBorjomi enroutetodestinationsfurtherwest.
Themunicipality’sLocalActionGrouphasconductedacomprehensiveanalysisofthesevillageclusters. Theypointto“goodclimateandfreshair,”“naturalresources,mineralwater[andassociated]medicinal properties,”and“culturalandhistoricalheritage”asassetsthatshouldbeengagedfor“sustainable, nature basedtourism”(2020).Georgianheritageandtourismprofessionalshaveechoedthesecalls, advocatingfortheestablishmentofecotourismprogrammingthatleveragesecologicalresources (KhostariaandChachava2017,Jinoria2019),increasedconnectionsbetweenvillages(BorjomiLocal ActionGroup2020),andhighlightingtheregion’sengineeringheritageandhealthresorts(Khostaria 2017,Sitchinava,2019)
Despitetheidentificationofhistorichealthtourismasapotentialvenuefordevelopment,alackof financialresourcespreventsstepsforward Severaloftheplateau’ssanatoriahavebeenacquiredby privateinvestors,withplanstoredevelopthemintomountainresorts(LibaniandMziuri),butprojects havebegunandhaltedagainandagain acontinuouscycleofpromiseandprecarityfamiliartomany Georgians
TerrainCures
BorjomiMunicipalityliesamidsttheLesserCaucasus Itspositionalongtheconvergenceofthecountry’s humid,westernregionandthedryeasternregionresultinasetofhydrological,geological,andclimatic conditionsthatareunique,representingoneofthemostecologicallydiverseregionsofGeorgia.To the west,theAchara-ImeretiMountainRangeweakensapproachingcoolmassesofair,whiletothesouthand theeast,theTrialetiRangedirectswarmerAnatoliancurrentsintotheregion,resultinginitsfamousmild continentalclimate(Bondyrevetal 2015)
Thisclimatesupportsadiversesetoflandscapeswhichincludealpine,subalpine,mixedconiferousand beechforestsaswellasalpineandsubalpinemeadows Setasideasagamereserveduringthetsaristera, theseprimevalconiferousforestsendure.Thereliefoftheregion,situatedalongtheBakurianifault, resultsfromPaleogeniclavaflows.TheerosiveactionoftheGujaretistskaliandBorjomulaRiverscutthe younglavaflowsintomesas,formingstrikinggorgesandbasalticcliffsattheiredges(Sossonetal 2010).
Persistentvolcanicactivityalongthisfaultlinecausesagreatnumberofmineralspringstoemerge Naturallyinfusedwithcarbondioxide,thesewatersrisetothesurfacewithoutmechanicalintervention. Carbonicacidandchloridedissolvesmallamountsofmineralsaswaterpassesthroughlayersofrock, carryingtracesofeachtothesurface Asagroup,theycontainover60mineralsthathavebeen consideredbeneficialforconsumptionfornearlytwocenturies(Tielidze2019).
Thehistoryofhealingthebodyinrelationtothislandscapeiswell knowntoGeorgians Borjomi,atleast, continuestoengagethisstoriedpast.Establishedasanearly kurort (“cureplace”)byRussianelites,it becametheCaucasus’mostfamoushealthdestinationduetothisdiversityofnaturalmineralsprings Duringthe19thcentury,consumingmineralwaterswasunderstoodtobea“cure all,”butashealth landscapesbecameincreasingly‘medicalized’duringtheSovietperiod,theuniquepropertiesofeach springbecameassociatedwithprecisetreatmentsforspecificailments(Manning2012)
Variationsintemperature,taste,smell,andcarbonationevidencedeachspring’sdistincthealingproperties whichweretobetakenattheirsource ensuringthestabilityofthedose-intheprescribedvolumeand frequency.Sulphurousspringswereusedtotreatskinconditions,salinewatersforgastricproblems,and iron richwatersresolvedrespiratoryconditionsandrestoredvigor(Jinoriaetal 2019;Manning2012)
Builtcharacteristicsofthesanatoriacomplex,includingsouthernexposureofbuildings,solaria,aeraria, andwalkingpaths,werecarefullydesignedinterfacesbetweenpatientsandthecurativeelementsofthe landscape.Thoughsimplyspendingtimeoutdoorsathealthresortspromotedhealth,climatetherapies wereasetofspecificregimesthatorchestratedactiveandpassiveengagementswithsunlight,air,and forests(Conterio2019)
Aerotherapieswerecommontreatments,inwhichexposuretothephysicalcharacteristicsofopenair fortifiedthebodyagainstcoldsandinfectiousdiseases(Geisler2014) Coniferousforestenvironmentsin particularwerefavored,whichwerethoughttoemitthegreatestconcentrationof“herbalchemicals.” Breathingthefortifyingairoftheseforests,theabsorbed“atmosphericvitamins”addressedtheproblems ofdiseasesthatcouldnotbecuredbymedicineorsurgery”(Podolsky1947) Guidebooksoftheregion
asprophylactictreatmentsforallguests(ForchheimerandIrons1915).Restpointsdottedtheroute, offeringbenchesanddramaticviewsintothealpinelandscape.
Whilesanatoriaandresthomesontheplateauitself(Tsemi,Tba,Gantiadi,Mziuri)weremostnotedfor theirclimatotherapyofferings,lowalpinesanatoria(Tsagveri,Kechkobi,andLibani)specializedin mineralwatertreatments,establishedincloseproximitytosources Harnessingthesedynamicproperties ofthelandscape,healthtouristscouldtraveltothepreciselocationmostsuitedtotheirneeds.This complexunderstandingofterrain,hydrology,andgeologyenablednearlyacenturyandahalfofcurative, embodiedengagementswiththelandscape
“Fixing”thePast
Thebuiltremnantsofthispastmateriallycatalogasequenceofarchitecturalapproachesforconnecting bodytolandscape.SanatoriaPlatoandLikanirepresentmodernistapproachestotheseinfrastructures, whileLibaniandPataraTsemiarestrikingexamplesfromtheearly20thcenturyandtheStalinistperiod Typicalpreservationistapproachesmightseektorepairthesestructureswhichare“significant”tothis history tofreezethemintime,tohalttheirdecay.
Indeed,preservation,asaprofession,hassoughttofixthings boththearchitecturalremainsofthepast, aswellasthe meanings thatcontemporaryvisitorsshouldassociatewiththem.Often,afterasite undergoestechnicalrestoration,aninterpretivelayerisapplied,typicallycomposedofinterpretive “armatures.”Thesesignsandinformationkiosksattempttoeducatevisitorsaboutthepastthrough semanticchannels,placingthe‘representativeartifacts’intheirproper‘periodofsignificance.’
InthecontextoftheSadgeriPlateau,(andmorebroadly,withinthediscipline)suchanapproachpresents severalproblems First,whilethebuilt“fabric”ofthislandscapemight,forsome,berepresentativeofthis storyofrestandhealinginthelandscape,theobjectificationofhistoryimpliesthatthelossofthese structureswouldalsorepresentalossofassociatedmemoryandknowledge.Certainly,therelationship betweenmemoryandarchitecturehasbeenthesubjectofstudyofmanyscholars,designers,and practitioners.However,giventhestateofmanyofthesanatoriaacrosstheplateau,thelackoffundsor investmentavailablefortheirrepair,andtherepeatedcyclesofstart and stopdevelopment,thebeliefthat memoryisdependentupontheseincreasinglyimpermanentobjectsleaveslittleroomforoptimism
Second,theimpulseofpreservationthatseekstofixsignificancefailstoacknowledgethatmeaningis,in fact,contingentandmultivalent Newnarrativesareconstantlyprojectedontostructuresorlandscapes, accruingandshifting,impermanent.Whilesomemayhavefondchildhoodmemoriesofridingthetrainto KechkobiortheRailwayWorkers’Sanatorium,toresidents,thepersistenceofthesestructuresinthe landscapemightalsoindicatealostperiodofprosperity ForIDPsintheregion,thePlatoorBorjomis XeobabuildingsmaystandfortheinertiaandbrokenpromisesoftheGeorgiangovernment.
InTskaltubo,outsidershaveprojectedtheirownmeaningsandusesontosanatoriainsimilarstatesof precarity.IDPsoccupymorethanhalfofthetown’s22sanatoria.Visitingtheonce grandtown,thereisa strongsensethatresidentsdonotcontroltheirownplacenarratives Thoughafewspasremain
operational,mostvisitorscometophotograph(orbephotographedin)thedecayingopulence.InJune,the AmericanactorJimCarreypurchasedanimageofoneTskaltubointeriorfromthephotographerRyan Koopmans(GeorgiaToday2022) Theimageportraysan“abandoned”hallorperformancespace overtakenbyalush,digitalcolonyoffloweringplantsandtrees.Thecollagecoversovertheshattered glassandplasterwhichcoverthefloor,thegraffitionthewallsmaskedout Outonewindow,adigital forestobscuressmokingchimneysandclotheslinesheavywithshirtswhichemergefromothersections ofthebuilding.
InthecasethattheSadgeriPlateau’ssanatoriaoryouthcampsreceiveinvestmentforrevitalization,the problemofdrawingthesedispersedarchitecturesintosomesortofcohesivenarrative onethatislegible tooutsiders remains Whiletheplannedrevitalizationofthekukushkapresentsanopportunityto conceptuallyreconnecteachofthesevillagesandtheirassociatedhealthlandscapes,thereareno additionalinfrastructuresthatmightpromptavisitortodisembarkfromthetrainbeforeBakuriani.Given thatthefutureofthese“representative”architecturesremainsunknown,thecurativepropertiesthatpersist inthelandscapemightinsteadstructureanapproachtotourismintheregion.
Re orchestratingHistoricHealingPracticesintheLandscape
Whatkindofinfrastructure,then,couldreunitethedisparateculturalandecologicalpiecesofthishistoric healthlandscapeintoadiscernible,narrativewhole,onethatcouldtoleratethefadingawayofsomeofits “representative”architectures,butalsoprovideflexibilitytoengagelayersofthepresent?Thoughthe builtremnantsofthishistorymayrecede,theparticularandprofoundfeaturesofthelandscapethat organizedaculturalsystem itswaters,itsancientconiferforest,itssystemofgorgesandmesas,its alpinewindsandsun- persist
The“fixing”tendencyofpreservationfocusesvisitorstowardobjectsandtheir“fixed”interpretations, leavinglittleroomforprocessesofindividualmeaning making Recentscholarshipinthefieldof interpretivedesignfindsthatwhilevisitorsundertakejourneystolearnaboutthepast,theydonotdesire facts somuchastheyseekembodied,place based experiences Themostmeaningfulandmemorable encountersinheritagelandscapesgrowfromhighlysensorialengagementswithplace,ratherthanthrough overlydeterministicsitereadings(Otero Pailos2009,Trieb2009,Staiff2014).
Ritualsofbreathing,drinking,andwalkingtheterrain,then,presentanopportunityto rechoreograph historic actions, attitudes, and sensations asaninterpretivestrategy,ratherthanfixatingonthebuilt vestigesthatevidencethem Byassertingthecontinuedrelevanceoftheseactsinthepresent,memory embeddedinthislandscapeisallowedtopersistwhileaccruingnewlayersofmeaning.Design’srole, then,shouldbeto“establishframesofperception”(Pallasmaa2009),toprovideculturalframeworksthat orchestrateencounterswithcurative,naturalfeaturesoftheSadgeriPlateau
During2021 22,theauthorexploredthepotentialofonesuchinfrastructurethroughtheformofan interpretivetrail.Ratherthandeployingtraditionalsemanticstrategies “explaining”significanceat discretepoints thisworkdrewupontwohistorichealthregimesnativetothislandscape:thedrinkingof mineralwatersattheirsourceandthewalkingofterraincures,thesystemofgraduatedpathsthat
connectedthesanatoriumtothelargerterritory.Theseregimesmaximizedbodilyengagementwithplace, andretainthecapacitytoreorientvisitorsinhighlysensorial experiences.Theyaffordtrailusers opportunitiestore engagethehistoric,intimatelinkbetweenthelandscape’shydrology,geology,ecology andclimateandthebody’sabilitytohealinrelationtothesefeatures.
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TheproposedroutebeginsatoneofthePlateau’srailstations TsemiorTsagveri wherevisitors disembarkfromthekukushkaandjointhetrail,asecondarymodalitythatbothaffordsandcontrols accesstotheunderexploredareasofthePlateau.Linkingvillages,forestedslopes,alpinemeadows,and mineralwatersources,andinterweavingalongsideandacrosstherailline,thetrailallowsvisitorsto physically connectdistinctzonesthroughtheactofwalking,whiletracinga conceptual through line betweendispersedsitesandacrosslandscapes.
Today,Borjomiandthesmallervillagesoftheplateauoftenadvertisegeneralnotionsofcleanairand “pristinenature.”Historically,however,itwaswell understoodthateachoftheseresorts eventhose withinafewkilometersofeachother affordedadistinctcombinationofscenery,climate,and landscape basedprescriptionswhoseefficacycouldnotbereplicatedoutsideoftheircontext.For balneologicaltreatments,medicinalmineralwatershadtobetaken at their source toensurethestability ofthedose(Manning2012) Therefore,a coreideaofthisnewinfrastructureisthattheculturalpractices itorchestratesare situated thattheycanoccurnowhereelse,thattheyareinextricablefromtheir particularhydrogeologic,vegetative,ortopographicmilieu
Though“terroir”isoftenusedtodescribethecharacteristictasteandflavorimpartedtoawinebythesoil, topography,andclimateinwhichitisproduced,thisprojectextendstheideatothemineralwatersthat emergeonandaroundtheSadgeriPlateau Thetrailasksvisitorstoundertakeajourneytotheprecise pointoftheiremergence,wheretheyareinvitedtomakeanexplicitconnectionbetweenthesource’s uniquetaste,smell,temperature,andcarbonationandtheparticularqualitiesofitscontext
Modestmaterialinterventionsaimtofurtheramplifytheperceptualqualitiesofthesewaters.Basaltis ubiquitousintheregion’svernacularandinfrastructuralarchitecture,andevidencestheplateau’svolcanic origins Contactbetweenthisstoneandmineralspringsamplifiesthewater’sparticularmedicinal qualities,stainingbasaltfountainsthroughouttheregionwithcolorfulefflorescences.Depositsin variationsofgreen,white,andredaccumulateonthedarkstone,registeringtheuniquemineral and medicine ladenqualitiesofeach.
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Basaltwaterbarsweredesignedtoprotectthetrailfromerosiveactionofthesprings,butalsotoextend thevisual,sonic,andatmospherictraitsofthewaterintooracrossthetrail Clubmossesandlichencoat basaltwheremineralwatersflow,whileclustersoffernsemergealongwetedges,arepeatedplanting motif.Whiletheseinterventionsrespondtofunctionalrequirementsofwaymarking,theyalsoperforman interpretivefunction,registeringthelandscape’shydrologicandgeologicphenomena
ThoughsanatoriaoftheSadgeriPlateauareinvariedstatesofdisrepair,muchoftheinfrastructurethat oncemovedorstoredwaterisstillfunctional Partiallyburiedintheground,cisternsandchannelshave remainedprotectedfrommanyoftheforcesthathavecausedthedisintegrationofotherhistoric architectures.Thisprojectproposessmallrepairsandreadaptationsofthesewaterarmatures fornew interpretiveuses, recasting theseonceinfrastructuralformsassitesforoccupationanduse,aspoints wherewateremergesandispresentedfordrinking.Engagingdiscreteinfrastructuresofthehistorichealth landscapeandsituatingthemalongthetemporalsequenceofthewalk,avisitoraccruesexperiencesthat allowthemtoinferapatternofrelationsbetweenlandscapeandtheseculturalforms
narrative.Periodicexperiencesofchangeilluminatecontrastsbetweenlandscapetypes,whilealso identifyingaseriesofintermediatedestinationsandviews,breakingthejourneyintoaseriesofshorter walks Asinthemedicinalpracticeofwalkingaterraincure,thesebreaksalsoorchestratedistinct momentsofactivityandrest.
What’sNextfortheSadgeriPlateau?
Suchaninfrastructuremighttakemanyforms Whilethegoaltoprojectforwardtheuniqueecological andhydrologicalqualitiesoftheSadgeriPlateauisimportant,whatmarkstheregionasdistinctfrom nearbyBorjomi Kharagauli’s‘wilderness’offeringsisthatitisa cultural landscape;itdoesnotofferan extensiveterritoryof‘untouched’forest,ofuninhabitedmountainviews.Instead,itsuniquesettlement patterns,architectures,andritualsharness,organize,andrespondtoitsparticularhydrogeologies,climate, andlandcover,evidencinganintricate human environment system morethanacenturyandahalfold
Georgia,“thecountryofculturallandscapes,”lacksanationalculturallandscapedesignationthatwould recognizeandpromotethesetightlyinterwovenfabricsofnatureandcivilization(Tsintsabadze2021) TheAgencyforProtectedAreasmanagesnaturalresources,whiletheMinistryofCultureand MonumentsProtectionpreservesdistinct“moveableorimmovableculturalassets”(LawonMonuments 2008),withlittleoverlaporsharedthinking(Tsinstabadze2021).
AstheBakurianiDevelopmentAgencyworkstorevitalizethekukushkaandthestationsalongitsroute,a culturallandscapeframeworkcanhelpshapedecision makingthatexpandsoutwardfromtherailline. Suchaframeworkvaluesbothbuiltandecologicalassetsasinextricable,andsupportsknowledgeof practices,ritualsand ways of being inplacethatlinkthetwo.Tourisminfrastructures,whethertrails,new architectures,orprogramming,shouldreinforcethesehistoricconnections,whileremainingflexible enoughtogeneratea living landscaperatherthanamonumenttothepast
Deepexpertisealreadypresentintheregionthatshouldbedrawnupontoredeveloplandscape based tourisminfrastructures TamarKhostaria’sworkhasbeeninstrumentalinpromotingandpreservingthe engineeringhistoryoftheregion,includingrailstationsandbridges,hydropowerstations,andthe Borjomibottlingplant Olderresidentswhoremaininthevillagesoftenworkedinhealthtourismbefore itscollapseandretainkeyknowledgeofitspractices.Othershavelongcaredforlibraries,culturalhalls, orwatersourcesthatwereonceintegratedintothissystem.
Astrainstationsateachvillagearerestored,theymightbecomehubsthatencourageandequipvisitorsto moveoutwardintothelandscape Perhapstheybecomeplacestoprovisiononeselfforawalk to purchaseproduce,tyingintoICCNandMercyCorps’agrotourisminitiatives,ortoacquiretheiconic sippingvesseldesignedforcollectinganddrinkingmineralwater.Medicinalplantsmightagainbecome availablehere,traditionswhichhavebeenstudiedanddocumentedextensivelybyethnobotanistRainer Bussmann.Toursofmineralwaters tastingexperienceswhichcouldguidevisitorsacrossthePlateau mightdisembarkfromthestations,offeringinformationontheirchemicalcompositionandhistoricuse.
Beyondthekukushka’sroute,thefutureofthebuiltvestigesofthishuman environmentsystemremain uncertain.AsGeorgiacontinuestogrowintoanadventuretourismcapital,theSadgeriPlateauhasan opportunitytoengagespecific,place-basedapproachestotourism,ratherthanaffordinggeneralized pastichesforanimagined‘international’audience.Instead,thelandscapepersists itscyclesofseasons andwater,itsprimevalforests andpresentsitself,again,asthebasisfor situated,embodiedexperiences
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