Above & Beyond | Canada's Arctic Journal May/June 2011

o

Canada’s Arctic Journal

MAY/JUNE 2011 • $ 5.95

Featured on

Puvirnituq Snow Festival Arviat Ecotourism Initiative

Ukkusiksalik HBC Trading Post with an Inuk Manager

The Coming Age PM40050872

Arctic Oil and Gas s6hxloEi6

vmQ/s?9oxiz μ8NsJ6

www.arcticjournal.ca

Scott Bateman / y√5 Xw5m8 President & C.E.O., First Air xzJ6√6 x7m xsM5tp7mE, {5 wsf8k5 Le président et directeur général, First Air

Pita Aatami / „b ≈bu President, Makivik Corporation & Chairman, First Air xzJ6√6, mrF4 fxS‰nzk5 x7m w4y?sb6, {5 wsf8k5 Président, Corporation Makivik et président du conseil, First Air

Recognized as one of Canada’s 50 Best There is a great deal of momentum at First Air, and we are proud of the results we are seeing for our efforts. First Air recently received the Community Support and Environment Award from the Kivalliq Chamber of Commerce, for First Air’s outstanding contribution to the Kivalliq Region. First Air was also selected as one of Canada’s 50 Best Managed Companies, recognizing our demonstration of operational strength and commitment to customer service excellence.

Our commitment to give back to our customers and to the communities we serve is evident in our numerous sponsorships and partnerships. This winter we proudly sponsored many hockey tournaments, including the renown First Air Avataq Cup. Our commitment to sponsorships and to providing tangible benefits to the Beneficiaries in the communities we serve is demonstrated in our two new partnerships.

Sakku First Aviation Ltd, a partnership with Sakku Investments Corporation; and Qikiqtani First Aviation Ltd, a partnership with Qikiqtaaluk Corporation, are two distinct joint venture airlines that will utilize First Air operated Boeing 737, 767, ATR 42, ATR 72 and Hercules Aircraft to provide a range of aviation services throughout the Kivalliq and Baffin regions.

Our new partners share our vision for increased employment in the North and our Sivurariaqnik employment initiative. Following a successful job fair event in Rankin Inlet on March 31, we have launched several new training programs to encourage and support careers in the aviation industry and specifically First Air. Our combined focus on skills development and job training will ensure a greater reach and possibility of success.

With a dedicated Employment & Aboriginal Affairs Officer focusing on recruitment; active community job fair participation and employment outreach; dedicated website (sivurariaqnik.ca) and proactive communication strategy; partnerships such as an Aviation Industry Training Agreement with Nunavut Arctic College; and new training programs, our Sivurariaqnik program ensures a continued focus and dedication of resources towards increasing employment opportunities in the North.

As the leader in northern transportation, First Air will continue to provide tangible benefits for beneficiaries while continuing to develop new opportunities for participation in First Air and the aviation sector. We value your support and thank you for making First Air, the Airline of the North.

ᐃᓕᓴᕆᔭᐅᓯᒪᔪᑦ 50 ᑲᓇᑕᒥ ᐱᒃᑯᓇᓛᑦ

Reconnue parmi les 50 meilleures sociétés au Canada

ᕗᔅᑦ ᐃᐊᕐ-ᒃᑯᓐᓂ ᐊᓕᐊᓇᐃᑦᑐᒥᒃ ᖃᓄᐃᓕᐅᕈᓘᔭᖅᑐᖃᕐᒪᑦ, ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐱᒃᑯᒋᕗᒍᑦ ᑕᒪᒃᑯᓂᖓ ᖃᐅᔨᔭᒃᓴᐅᔪᓂᒃ ᐱᓇᓱᐊᕐᓂᑎᓐᓄᑦ. ᕗᔅᑦ ᐃᐊᕐ-ᒃᑯᑦ ᒫᓐᓇᒫᕈᓗᒃ ᐃᓕᓴᕆᔭᐅᓚᐅᖅᑐᑦ ᓄᓇᓕᓐᓄᑦ ᐃᑲᔪᖅᑐᐃᓂᖏᓐᓄᑦ ᐊᕙᑎᒧᓪᓗ ᐱᔾᔪᓯᐊᖅᑖᖅᑐᑎᑦ ᑭᕙᓪᓕᖅ ᓇᒻᒥᓂᖁᑎᓖᑦ ᑲᑐᔾᔨᖃᑎᒌᖏᓐᓂ, ᕗᔅᑦ ᐃᐊᕐ-ᒃᑯᑦ ᓂᕆᐅᒋᔭᐅᔪᑦ ᐅᖓᑕᐅᔨᒻᒪᕆᑦᑐᑎᑦ ᐃᑲᔪᕐᓂᖃᓚᐅᕐᓂᖏᓐᓄᑦ ᑭᕙᓪᓕᕐᒥᐅᓄᑦ. ᕗᔅᑦ ᐃᐊᕐ-ᒃᑯᑦ ᓂᕈᐊᖅᑕᐅᓚᐅᕆᕗᑦ ᑲᓇᑕᒥ 50-ᖏᓐᓂ ᐱᐅᓂᖅᐹᖅᑎᒍᑦ ᐊᐅᓚᑦᑎᓂᖃᑦᑎᐊᕐᓂᖓᓄᑦ ᑲᒻᐸᓂᐅᔪᓂᒃ, ᐃᓕᓴᕆᔭᐅᓪᓗᑕ ᑕᑯᒃᓴᐅᑎᑦᑎᓂᕆᖃᑦᑕᖅᑕᑎᒍᑦ ᐊᐅᓚᓂᖃᑦᑎᐊᖅᑐᑕ ᓴᙱᔪᒥᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᑲᒪᒋᔭᖃᐃᓐᓇᕐᓂᐊᕐᓂᑦᑎᓐᓂᒃ ᐱᔨᑦᑎᕋᕐᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᐱᐅᓛᕐᒥ ᐱᔨᑦᑎᕋᖅᑕᑎᓐᓄᑦ.

First Air continue sur sa lancée, et l’entreprise est fière des résultats de ses efforts. Récemment, First Air a reçu le prix Services aux collectivités et à l’environnement de la Chambre de commerce de Kivalliq pour sa contribution remarquable à la région de Kivalliq. First Air a aussi été choisie comme l’une des 50 sociétés les mieux gérées au Canada, ce qui souligne sa force opérationnelle et son engagement envers l’excellence du service à la clientèle.

Notre engagement à réinvestir dans les collectivités et à soutenir notre clientèle se manifeste par le grand nombre de commandites et de ᑲᒪᒋᔭᖃᐃᓐᓇᕐᓂᐊᕐᓂᕗᑦ ᐱᔨᑦᑎᕋᖅᑕᑎᓐᓄᑦ ᐅᑎᖅᑎᑦᑎᓗᑕ ᐃᑲᔪᕐᓂᒃᑯᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ partenariats auxquels nous participons. Ainsi au cours de l’hiver, nous ᓄᓇᓕᐅᔪᓄᑦ ᐱᔨᑦᑎᕋᓲᑦᑎᓐᓄᑦ ᑕᑯᒃᓴᐅᒻᒪᕆᒻᒪᑕ ᐊᒥᓱᒻᒪᕆᓐᓂᒃ ᐃᑲᔫᓯᐊᖅᑖᖅᑎᑦᑎᓲᖑᓂᑦᑎᓐᓂᑦ ᐱᓕᕆᖃᑎᖃᖅᐸᓂᑦᑎᓐᓂᓗ. ᐅᑭᐅᖑᔪᖅ,ᐱᒃᑯᒋᔪᒻᒪᕆᐅᓪᓗᑕ avons parrainé avec fierté plusieurs tournois de hockey, notamment ᐃᑲᔪᓚᐅᖅᑐᒍᑦ ᐊᒥᓱᒻᒪᕆᓐᓂᒃ ᕼᐊᑭᖅᑐᑦ ᐱᙳᐊᕕᔾᔪᐊᖅᑐᓂᒃ, ᐱᖃᓯᐅᑎᓪᓗᒍ la célèbre Coupe Avataq de First Air. Nous avons établi deux nouveaux ᖃᐅᔨᒪᔭᐅᑦᑎᐊᖅᑐᖅ ᕗᔅᑦ ᐃᐊᕐ-ᒃᑯᑦ ᐊᕙᑕᖅ ᕼᐊᑭᕕᔾᔪᐊᕐᓂᖏᑦ. ᑲᒪᒋᔭᖃᐃᓐ- partenariats, preuve de notre engagement au moyen de partenariats ᓇᕐᓂᐊᕐᓂᕗᑦ ᐃᑲᔪᕐᓗᑕ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐃᑲᔫᑎᐅᔪᑦ ᑕᑯᒃᓴᐅᓂᖏᓐᓂ ᓴᖅᑮᓪᓗᑕ et de prestation d’avantages tangibles pour les bénéficiaires dans les ᓄᓇᕗᑖᖃᑕᐅᓯᒪᔪᓄᑦ ᓄᓇᓕᓐᓂ ᐱᔨᑦᑎᕋᓲᑦᑎᓐᓂ ᑕᑯᒃᓴᐅᑎᓲᕆᕙᕗᑦ ᒪᕐᕉᓐᓂᒃ collectivités que nous desservons. ᓄᑖᕐᓂᒃ ᐱᓕᕆᖃᑎᖃᖃᑦᑕᕐᓂᐊᓕᖅᑐᑕ.

Sakku First Aviation ltée, un partenaire de la Sakku Investments ᓴᒃᑯ ᓯᕗᓪᓕᖅ ᖃᖓᑕᓲᓕᕆᔩᑦ, ᐃᓚᒋᔭᐅᔪᖅ ᓴᒃᑯ ᑮᓇᐅᔭᓕᐅᕋᓱᐊᖅᑏᑦ Corporation, et Qikiqtani First Aviation ltée, un partenaire de la ᑯᐊᐳᕇᓴᙵᓄᑦ; ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᕿᑭᖅᑕᓂ ᓯᕗᓪᓕᖅ ᖃᖓᑕᓲᓕᕆᔨᒃᑯᑦ, ᐃᓚᒋᔭᐅᖃᑕ- Qikiqtaaluk Corporation, sont deux coentreprises distinctes qui utiliᐅᓪᓗᓂ ᕿᑭᖅᑖᓗᒃ ᑯᐊᐳᕇᓴᓐ-ᒃᑯᓐᓄᑦ, ᒪᕐᕉᒻᒪᑎᒃ ᐊᔾᔨᐅᙱᑦᑑᒃ ᖃᖓᑕᓲᓕᕆ- seront les Boeing 737, 767, ATR 42 et ATR 72, ainsi que les aéronefs ᖃᑦᑕᕐᓂᐊᖅᑑᒃ ᐊᑐᕐᓗᑎᑦ ᕗᔅᑦ ᐃᐊᕐ-ᒃᑯᑦ ᖃᖓᑕᓲᖁᑎᖏᓐᓂ ᖃᖓᑕᓲᖅ ᓱᐱᔪᖅ Hercules exploités par First Air, pour offrir une gamme de services 737, 767, ᐸᐅᑎᓕᒃ 42, ᐸᐅᑎᓕᒃ 72 ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐅᓇᑕᖅᑐᒃᓴᑦ ᖃᖓᑕᓲᖁᑎᖓᑦ aéronautiques dans l’ensemble des régions de Kivalliq et de Baffin. ᖃᖓᑕᓲᓕᕆᔨᐅᖃᑦᑕᕐᓂᐊᖅᑐᑕ ᑭᕙᓪᓕᕐᒥ ᕿᑭᖅᑖᓗᒻᒥᓗ.

Nos nouveaux partenaires partagent notre objectif d’augmenter les ᐱᓕᕆᖃᑎᒋᖃᑦᑕᕐᓂᐊᓕᖅᑕᕗᑦ ᐊᔾᔨᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᑕᐅᑐᙳᐊᖅᑕᑎᓐᓂᒃ ᐊᑐᕈᒪᔭᑦᑎᓐᓂ emplois dans le Nord et appuient notre initiative d’emploi ᑕᑯᓐᓈᙳᐊᕐᒥᒻᒪᑕᑎᒃᑕᐅᖅ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔮᒃᓴᖅᑕᖃᕐᓂᖅᓴᐅᓕᖅᑎᑦᑎᔪᒪᓪᓗᑕ ᐅᑭᐅᖅ- Sivurariaqnik. À la suite du salon de l’emploi très réussi à Rankin Inlet ᑕᖅᑐᒥ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᓯᕗᕙᕆᐊᕐᓂᖅ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔭᖅᑎᑖᕋᓱᐊᕐᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᐱᓕᕆᐊᑦᑎᓐᓂᒃ le 31 mars, nous avons lancé plusieurs nouveaux programmes de ᑲᒪᒋᔭᖃᖅᑐᑕ. ᑭᖑᓂᐊᒍᑦ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔮᒃᓴᐅᔪᓐᓇᖅᑐᑦ ᑕᑯᒃᓴᐅᑎᑦᑎᓂᖃᖅᑎᓪᓗᒋᑦ formation en vue d’encourager et d’appuyer les carrières dans ᑲᖏᖅᖠᓂᕐᒥ ᒫᑦᓯ 31-ᖑᑎᓪᓗᒍ, ᓴᖅᑮᓯᒪᕗᒍᑦ ᓄᑖᕐᓂᒃ ᐱᓕᒻᒪᒃᓴᕐᓂᕐᒧᑦ l’industrie aéronautique et, plus particulièrement, chez First Air. Nous ᐱᓕᕆᐊᓂᒃ ᑲᔪᖏᖅᓴᐃᔪᒪᓪᓗᑕ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐃᑲᔪᖅᑐᐃᔪᒪᓪᓗᑕ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔮᕆᔭvisons à la fois le perfectionnement des compétences et la formation ᐅᔪᓐᓇᖅᑐᓂᒃ ᖃᖓᑖᓲᓕᕆᔩᑦ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔭᕐᕕᒋᔪᓐᓇᖅᑕᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐱᓗᐊᖅᑐᒥ en cours d’emploi pour élargir notre portée et assurer de meilleures ᕗᔅᑦ ᐃᐊᕐ-ᒃᑯᓐᓂ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔮᒃᓴᐅᔪᓂᒃ. ᑲᑎᑦᑐᒋᑦ ᑲᒪᒋᒐᓱᐊᕐᓂᕗᑦ ᐱᓕᕆᔪᓐᓇᐅᑏᑦ ᐱᕙᓪᓕᐊᒍᑎᒋᔭᐅᖁᓪᓗᒋᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔮᕐᓄᑦ ᐱᓕᒻᒪᒃᓴᖅᑎᑦᑎᓂᖅ possibilités de réussite. ᖃᐅᔨᒪᓇᑦᑎᐊᖅᑎᑦᑎᓂᐊᖅᑐᖅ ᑎᑭᒍᓐᓇᑦᑎᐊᕐᓂᐊᕋᑦᑕ ᓴᖅᑭᖅᑎᑦᑎᔪᒪᓂᑦᑎᓐᓂᒃ Grâce au travail de recrutement d’un agent responsable de l’emploi et ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔮᕐᓂᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᑲᔪᓯᓂᖃᑦᑎᐊᕐᓂᖅᓴᐅᒍᓐᓇᖅᑎᑦᑎᒐᓱᐊᕐᓂᐊᖅᑐᑕ. des affaires autochtones, à notre participation active aux salons de ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔭᖅᑎᖃᖅᑐᑕ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔮᖅᑖᖅᑎᑦᑎᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᓄᓇᖃᖅᑳᖅᓯᒪ- l’emploi des collectivités et au programme d'extension des services de ᔪᓕᕆᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᑲᒪᔨᒥᒃ ᐱᓕᕆᐊᖃᖅᑐᒥᒃ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔭᖅᑎᑖᕋᓱᐊᕐᓂᐊᖅᑐᒥ;ᓄᓇᓕᓐᓂ main-d'œuvre, au site Web spécialisé (sivurariaqnik.ca) et à une ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔮᑦ ᓴᖅᑭᔮᖅᑎᑕᐅᓂᖏᓐᓂ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔮᒃᓴᐅᔪᑦ ᐃᓐᓄᓐᓇ- stratégie de communication proactive, aux partenariats comme avec ᓱᐊᕐᓗᓂᒋᑦ; ᐃᑭᐊᖅᑭᕕᒻᒥ ᐋᖅᑭᐅᒪᐃᓐᓇᖅᑎᑦᑎᓂᐊᖅᑐᒥᒃ (sivurariaqnik.ca) le Collège de l’Arctique du Nunavut pour l’accord de formation dans ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᑐᓴᐅᒪᖃᑎᒌᑦᑎᐊᕇᖅᓯᒪᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᖃᓄᖅᑑᕈᑎᒥᒃ ᑲᒪᓂᐊᖅᑐᓂ; ᐱᓕᕆᖃ- l’industrie aéronautique et les nouveaux programmes de formation, ᑎᖃᖃᑦᑕᕐᓗᓂ ᓲᕐᓗ ᖃᖓᑕᓲᓕᕆᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔮᒃᓴᓄᑦ ᐃᓕᓐᓂᐊᖅᑎᑦᑎᓂᖅ notre programme Sivurariaqnik veille à une orientation continue et ᐊᖏᕈᑎᒥ ᓄᓇᕗᒥ ᓯᓚᑦᑐᓴᕐᕕᒃᑯᑎᒍᑦ; ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᓄᑖᕐᓂᒃ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔮᕐᓄᑦ ᐃᓕᓐᓂ- une attribution de ressources visant l’augmentation des possibilités ᐊᕋᒃᓴᐅᔪᓂᒃ, Sivurariaqnik ᐱᓕᕆᐊᖓ ᖃᐅᔨᒪᓇᑦᑎᐊᖅᑎᑦᑎᕗᖅ ᐱᓕᕆᐊᖃ- d’emploi dans le Nord. ᐃᓐᓇᕐᓂᐊᕐᓂᑦᑎᓐᓂᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᓄᖅᑲᖅᑕᐃᓕᒪᒍᑎᖃᕐᓂᐊᕐᓂᑦᑎᓐᓂᒃ ᐊᑐᕋᒃᓴᓂᒃ Comme chef de file dans le transport aérien dans le Nord, First Air ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔮᒃᓴᑦ ᐊᒥᓱᕈᕆᐊᖁᓪᓗᒋᑦ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒥ. continuera d’offrir des avantages tangibles aux bénéficiaires, tout en ᓯᕗᓕᖅᑎᐅᓪᓗᑕ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒥ ᐃᖏᕐᕋᔪᓕᕆᓂᕐᒧᑦ, ᕗᔅᑦ ᐃᐊᕐ-ᒃᑯᑦ ᐃᑲᔫᑎᓂᒃ continuant à créer de nouvelles possibilités de participation dans ᖃᐅᔨᔭᒃᓴᐅᔪᓂᒃ ᓴᖅᑮᑎᑦᑏᓐᓇᕐᓂᐊᖅᑐᑦ ᓄᓇᕗᑖᖃᑕᐅᓯᒪᔪᓄᑦ ᐋᖅᑮᕙᓪᓪᓕᐊ- l’entreprise et le secteur aérien. Nous apprécions votre soutien et vous ᖏᓐᓇᕐᓗᑎᓪᓗ ᓄᑖᕐᓂᒃ ᐱᕕᒃᓴᓂ ᐃᓚᐅᖃᑕᐅᖁᓪᓗᒋᑦ ᕗᔅᑦ ᐃᐊᕐ-ᒃᑯᓐᓂ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ remercions de votre appui à First Air, la ligne aérienne du Nord. ᖃᖓᑕᓲᓕᕆᔨᒃᑯᓐᓂ. ᐱᒻᒪᕆᒋᕙᕗᑦ ᐃᑲᖅᑐᐃᓂᕆᓲᓯ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᖁᔭᓐᓇᒦᖅᑐᓯ ᕗᔅᑦ ᐃᐊᕐ-ᒃᑯᓐᓂ, ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒥ ᓯᕗᓪᓕᐅᑎᑦᑎᖃᑦᑕᕐᓂᓯᖕᓂᒃ ᖃᖓᑕᓲᖏᓐᓂᒃ.

ᐱᒻᒪᕿᐅᑎᑦᑕᕗᑦ ᐃᑲᔪᖃᑦᑕᕐᓂᓯ ᐊᒻᒪ ᖁᔭᓐᓇᒦᖅᑐᒍᑦ ᕘᔅᑦ ᐃᐅᒃᑯᑦ, ᖃᖓᑕᔫᖁᑎᖓᑦ ᐅᑭᐅᑕᖅᑐᒥᑦ.

We value your support and thank you for making First Air, THE AIRLINE OF THE NORTH. Nous apprécions votre soutien et vous remercions de votre appui à First Air, LA LIGNE AÉRIENNE DU NORD.

First Air Focus ᕗᔅ ᑎᐊᒃᑯᓐᓂ ᑕᑯᒋᐊᕐᓂᖅ

featuring Michael Innuksuk

ᒪᐃᑯ ᐃᓄᒃᓱᒃ

Our team is the reason First Air excels at being the Airline of the North and we are proud to recognize and thank those who show such dedication. One exceptional First Air employee is Michael Innuksuk.

Michael began working for First Air as a baggage handler and ticket agent in Igloolik. While on the job, Michael would meet the Pilots and became interested in becoming a Pilot himself. With several flight training options available, he pursued his training at the Moncton Flight Centre, now the Moncton Flight College (MFC), in New Brunswick.

After two years of training which included theory of flight, meteorology and air regulation to name a few, Michael acquired his private pilot licence, commercial pilot licence and a multi engine / instrument rating.

Michael has been a First Air Pilot since May, 1993 with experience flying across First Air’s vast network on Twin Otter, Beech 100, Hawker Siddley 748, Boeing 727 and currently on the ATR42 as a Captain.

“I enjoy working for the airline as I get to see different communities and different parts of the Arctic,” says Michael. “The everyday challenges of conducting and completing a safe flight are of the utmost importance to everyone at First Air. There are days when we have to work in the most challenging environments of the Arctic, but we all make sure we complete the flight with safety as the number one priority.

I wish you all a good flight, where ever your travels may take you.”

First Air values training, personal development and encourages career advancement, and we continue to seek out new aviators to join our team. While preference will be given to individuals with prior endorsement on our aircraft types, we also encourage diverse flight control experience.

As an accredited training organization, First Air can help you achieve your goals through our in-house training centre and programs. To learn more about employment opportunities within First Air or the minimum flight crew requirements, visit sivurariaqnik.ca.

ᐱᓕᕆᖃᑎᒌᓐᓂᕆᔭᕗᑦ ᐱᑦᔪᑎᒋᓪᓗᒍ ᕘᔅᑎᐅᒃᑯᑦ ᐊᔪᓐᖏᑎᐊᖃᑦᑕᖅᐳᑦ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒥ ᖃᖓᑕᓲᓕᕆᔨᓪᓗᐊᑕᐅᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐱᒃᑯᒍᓱᑉᐳᒍᑦ ᐃᓕᓴᖅ-ᓯᔪᓐᓇᕋᑦᑕ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᖁᔭᒋᓪᓗᑎᒍᓗ ᑕᒪᑐᒧᖓ ᐱᓕᕆᖃᑕᐅᑦᑎᐊᖅᑐᓂᒃ. ᐃᓚᖓ ᐊᒃᓱᒻᓚᕿᐊᓗᒃ ᕘᔅᑎᐅᒃᑯᑦ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔭᖅᑎᑦᑎᐊᕙᒋᔭᖓ ᑖᓐᓇ ᒪᐃᑯ ᐃᓄᒃᓱᒃ. ᒪᐃᑯ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔭᕆᐊᓚᐅᖅᓯᒪᔪᖅ ᕘᔅᑎᐅᒃᑯᓐᓄᑦ ᐃᑦᑎᖅᕕᓕᕆᔨᐅᓪᓗᓂ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᖃᖓᑦᑕᐅᑎᑖᖅᑎᑦᑎᔨᐅᓪᓗᓂ ᐃᒡᓗᓕᒃᒥ. ᓯᕗᓪᓕᖅᐸᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᐊᕐᕌᒍᓂ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔭᓕᖅᑎᓪᓗᒍ, ᒪᐃᑯ ᐅᖃᓪᓚᖃᑎᖃᖃᑦᑕᓚᐅᖅᑐᖅ ᐊᖁᑎᓂᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᑲᔪᖏᖅᐸᓪᓕᐊᑐᐃᓐᓇᓕᖅᑐᓂ ᐊᖁᑎᕈᕈᒪᓪᓗᓂ. ᐊᑐᐃᓐᓇᐅᓂᖏᓐᓄᑦ ᐱᓕᒻᒪᔅᓴᕐᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᐃᓕᓐᓂᐊᕐᓂᐅᔪᑦ, ᐃᓕᓐᓂᐊᕐᕆᐊᓕᓚᐅᖅᓯᒪᔪᖅ ᒪᖕᑕᓐ ᖃᖓᑕᓲᓕᕆᕕᖓᓂ, ᒫᓐᓇᐅᔪᖅ ᒪᖕᑕᓐ ᖃᖓᑕᖃᑦᑕᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᓯᓚᑦᑐᕐᓴᖅᕕᐅᓕᖅᑐᖅ (MFC), ᓂᐅ ᐳᕋᓐᓯᕕᒃᒥ. ᐊᕐᕌᒎᓐᓂᒃ ᒪᕐᕉᓐᓂᒃ ᐃᓕᓐᓂᐊᕐᓚᐅᖅᑐᓂ ᐱᖃᓯᐅᑎᓯᒪᓚᐅᖅᐳᑦ ᐅᑯᓂᖓ ᐃᓱᒪᒋᔭᐅᓂᖓ ᖃᖓᑕᖃᑦᑕᕐᓂᐅᑉ, ᓯᓚᓕᕆᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᖃᖓᑕᓲᓄᑦ ᒪᓕᒐᕆᔭᐅᔪᓂᒃ ᐊᑕᖐᖏᒃᑲᓗᐊᖅᑐᑎᒃ, ᒪᐃᑯ ᐊᖁᑦᑐᖅᓯᐅᑎᑖᕈᓐᓇᖅᓯᓚᐅᖅᑐᖅ ᓚᐃᓴᒥᒃ, ᐅᓯᑲᑦᑕᐸᑦᑐᓄᑦ ᐊᖁᑎᐅᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᓚᐃᓴᒥᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐊᑕᐅᓯᑐᐃᓐᓇᐅᖏᑦᑐᓂᒃ ᐊᐅᓚᐅᑎᓕᓐᓄᑦ / ᐱᓕᕆᔾᔪᑎᓕᓐᓄᑦ ᓇᓗᓇᐃᖅᑎᕆᓂᒃᑯᑦ. ᒪᐃᑯ ᕘᔅᑎᐅᒃᑯᓐᓄᑦ ᐊᖁᑎᐅᓯᒪᓕᖅᑐᖅ ᒪᐃ 1993-ᒥᓂᑦ ᖃᖓᑕᖃᑦᑕᖅᓯᒪᓕᖅᑐᓂ ᕘᔅᑎᐅᒃᑯᑦ ᖃᖓᑕᓲᖁᑎᖏᓐᓄᑦ ᒪᕐᕈᓕᓐᓄᑦ, Beech 100, 748-ᓄᑦ, ᓱᐱᔪᐃᑦ 727 ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᒫᓐᓇᐅᔪᖅ ᖃᖓᑕᓲᖏᓐᓄᑦ ATR42 ᑲᑉᑕᓐᖑᓕᖅᑐᓂ ᑖᒃᑯᓄᖓ. “ᖁᕕᐊᓱᖃᑦᑕᕋᒪ ᖃᖓᑕᓲᓕᕆᔨᓄᑦ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔭᕆᐊᔅᓴᖅ ᑕᑯᔪᓐᓇᖃᑦᑕᕋᒪ ᐊᑦᔨᒌᖏᑦᑐᓂᒃ ᓄᓇᓕᓐᓂᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐃᓚᖓᓂᒃ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑑᑉ,” ᐅᖃᑦᑐᓂ ᒪᐃᑯ. “ᖃᐅᑕᒫᑦ ᐊᒃᓱᕈᓐᓇᕐᓂᐅᕙᑦᑐᑦ ᖃᖓᑕᓪᓗᓂ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᖃᖓᑕᑦᑎᐊᕐᓗᓂ ᐊᒃᓱᒻᒪᕆᐊᓗᒃ ᐱᓪᓗᐊᑕᐅᒻᒪᑦ ᐃᓘᓇᖏᓐᓄᑦ ᕘᔅᑎᐅᒃᑯᓃᑦᑐᓄᑦ. ᐃᓛᓐᓂᒃᑯᑦ ᐅᓪᓗᐃᑦ ᐃᓚᖏᓐᓂ ᖃᖓᑕᔭᕆᐊᖃᖃᑦᑕᖅᑐᒍᑦ ᐊᒃᓱᕈᓐᓇᖅᑐᒃᑯᑦ ᓯᓚᒃᑯᑦ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒥ, ᑭᓯᐊᓂᓕ ᖃᖓᑕᑎᓪᓗᑕ ᓯᕗᓪᓕᖅᐸᐅᑎᖃᑦᑕᖅᐸᕗᑦ ᐊᑦᑕᓇᐃᖅᓯᓯᒪᔭᕆᐊᖃᕐᓂᕗᑦ. ᖃᖓᑕᑦᑎᐊᖃᑦᑕᖁᕙᑦᓯ, ᓇᒧᑐᐃᓐᓇᖅ ᐊᐅᓪᓚᕐᓂᐊᕐᕈᑦᓯ.” ᕘᔅᑎᐅᒃᑯᑦ ᐱᒻᒪᕆᒋᔭᖃᒻᒪᑕ ᐊᔪᕈᓐᓃᐸᓪᓕᐊᑎᑦᑎᓂᕐᒥᒃ, ᐃᒻᒥᒧᑦ ᐱᕙᓪᓕᐊᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐃᑲᔪᖅᑐᐃᓪᓗᑎᒃ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔭᕐᓂᒃᑯᑦ ᓯᕗᒧᐊᑉᐸᓪᓕᐊᓂᕐᒥᒃ, ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᕿᓂᖃᑦᑕᐃᓇᕐᓂᐊᖅᐳᒍᑦ ᓄᑖᓂᒃ ᖃᖓᑕᓱᖅᑎᐅᓂᐊᖅᑐᓂᒃ ᐅᕙᑦᑎᓐᓄᑦ ᐃᓚᓕᐅᑎᓂᐊᖅᑐᓂᒃ. ᓯᕗᓪᓕᐅᑎᑕᐅᖃᑦᑕᓂᐊᕐᕋᓗᐊᖅᑎᓪᓗᒋᑦ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᓯᕗᓂᐊᒍᑦ ᐊᖏᖅᑕᐅᓯᒪᔪ ᖃᖓᑕᓲᖁᑎᑦᑎᓐᓄᑦ, ᑎᓕᐅᕆᒋᕗᒍᑦᑕᐅᖅ ᐊᑦᔨᒌᖏᑦᑐᓂᒃ ᖃᖓᑕᓱᓕᕆᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᐱᓕᕆᖃᑎᑕᖅᓯᒪᓂᐅᔪᓂᒃ. ᐃᓕᑕᕆᔭᐅᓯᒪᓂᒃᑯᑦ ᐱᓕᒻᒪᔅᓴᐃᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᑲᑐᔾᔨᖃᑎᒌᖑᓪᓗᑎᒃ, ᕘᔅᑎᐅᒃᑯᑦ ᐃᑲᔪᕈᓐᓇᖅᐳᑦ ᐃᓕᓐᓂᒃ ᐱᓕᕆᐊᕐᕆᔪᒪᔭᓐᓂᒃ ᑲᔪᓯᑎᑦᑎᓇᓱᐊᖅᑎᓪᓗᑎᑦ ᑕᒪᒃᑯᑎᒎᓇ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔭᕐᓂᒃᑯᑦ ᐱᓕᒻᒪᔅᓴᖅᕕᐅᔪᑎᒍᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐃᓕᓐᓂᐊᕐᕋᔅᓴᑎᒍᑦ. ᖃᐅᔨᒋᐊᒃᑲᓐᓂᕈᒪᒍᕕᑦ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔮᒃᓴᐃᑦ ᒥᕐᓵᓄᑦ ᐃᓗᐊᓂ ᕘᔅᑎᐅᒃᑯᑦ ᐅᕝᕙᓘᓐᓃᑦ ᖃᖓᑕᓲᒥ ᐱᓕᕆᔨᐅᔪᓄᑦ ᒪᓕᒃᑕᐅᔭᕆᐊᓖᑦ, ᑕᑯᓂᐊᓚᐅᕐᕆᑦ ᐅᕗᖓ sivurariaqnik.ca.

TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

above&beyond Publisher & Editor Tom Koelbel Advertising Doris Ohlmann (Ottawa) 613-257-4999 Circulation Patt Hunter Design Robert Hoselton, Beat Studios www.arcticjournal.ca email: info@arcticjournal.ca Toll Free: 877-2ARCTIC (227-2842) PO Box 683, Mahone Bay, NS B0J 2E0

Volume 23, No. 3

May/June 2011

o

27

Canada’s Arctic Journal

MAY/JUNE 2011 • $ 5.95

20 Arviat

Ukkusiksalik

HBC Trading Post with an Inuk Manager

PM40050872

Arctic Oil and Gas s6hxloEi6 vmQ/s?9oxiz μ8NsJ6

The Coming Age of Arctic Oil And Gas Development Inuit Cautiously Prepare for the Future The Inuit Circumpolar Council (ICC), which represents 160 thousand Inuit living in Canada, Greenland, Alaska and Russia, is developing a common position for future environmentally sensitive oil and gas exploration and development in Arctic waters. — Whit Fraser

Ecotourism Initiative

The Coming Age

A Northwest Passage Cruise “Why didn’t I just sail in the tropics, I’m often asked? Not only because I’ve already been there. The main reason is that the expansive Arctic fascinates me much more than warmer seas. Simple. Here [along the Northwest Passage] there are so many interesting, beautiful scenic places... it would be a pity to just simply bypass them.” — Börje Ivarsson — Monika Witkowska

Featured on

Puvirnituq Snow Festival

Arctic Adventures of Anna

35

Ukkusiksalik An HBC Post with an Inuk as Manager

www.arcticjournal.ca

After the permanent departure of the qallunaat managers in 1933, Iqungajuq (aka Wager Dick), together with his family, took over management of the HBC post at Tasiujaq, the lake at the head of Wager Bay. — David F. Pelly

ADAMIE ANGIYOU, FROM PUVIRNITUQ, NUNAVIK, TAKES PART IN HIS HOMETOWN’S SNOW FESTIVAL IGLOO BUILDING COMPETITION. © STEPHEN GORMAN

Cover Price $5.95 SUBSCRIPTION RATES Within Canada 6 issues $27.00 12 issues $52.00

US/Foreign 6 issues $40.00 12 issues $78.00

(Prices Include applicable taxes)

arcticjournal.ca Celebrating 23 years as the popular in-flight magazine for First Air, The Airline of the North.

Publishing 6 times per year, Above & Beyond is featured on all First Air flights. Reproduction of any or all, without written consent of the publisher is prohibited. Above & Beyond is a registered trademark.

8

Special Arviat’s Community Ecotourism Initiative

14 About the North 32 Exotica Puvirnituq Snow Festival

43 Travel Back to the Barrens

by Alex Hall 49 Arts, Culture & Education New Polar Mosque

by Victoria Gaitskell and Edward Atkinson

55 Northern Bookshelf 57 Inuit Forum The Price We Pay for Healthy Food

by Mary Simon

PUBLICATIONS MAIL AGREEMENT NO. 40050872 RETURN UNDELIVERABLE CANADIAN ADDRESSES TO: CIRCULATION/ABOVE&BEYOND P.O. BOX 683 MAHONE BAY, NS B0J 2E0 Email: info@arcticjournal.ca

May/June 2011

above & beyond

7

Š JOSHUA PEARLMAN

Nancy Tasseor, a member of the Arviat Cultural Performance Troupe.

8

arcticjournal.ca

May/June 2011

Arviat

The

Community Ecotourism Initiative here is excitement in the air in Arviat. Something new is happening. The Arviat

T

Community Ecotourism (ACE) initiative is a grassroots project involving many individuals and several small businesses in Arviat, with a vision to establish a sustainable community-based tourism enterprise. Last January, the community

conducted a test run of its new daylong cultural program — these photos show some of the activities enjoyed by the “pretend tourists.”

May/June 2011

above & beyond

9

© JOSHUA PEARLMAN (8)

At the heart of Arviat’s tourism product is the community’s strong cultural heritage. Demonstrations and performances featuring Inuit skills and traditions, story telling, music and dance are offered in various combinations to provide anything from a half-day to a three-day program for visitors. This may include visits to a traditional tupik (skin tent) and/or an iglu, dog-sled rides, boat excursions to a National Historic Site, mini-expeditions out on the land by skidoo or ATV, demonstrations of Inuit survival skills, visits with artists and story-tellers, opportunities to buy local arts and crafts (soapstone carvings, jewellery, sealskin mitts, etc.), films and lectures on Inuit history, throat-singing and drum-dancing spectacles, participation in high school cultural programs, a chance to sit down over tea with local Inuit elders, plus dining on caribou, musk ox and Arctic char. It will be cultural tourism of the highest quality available in Nunavut.

While Inuit culture is the heart of ACE, the big drawing cards sure to bring tourists to Arviat are polar bears and caribou.

•

•

20,000 people come to Churchill every year, primarily to see the bears — some of those will go the extra mile to see polar bears in a more natural setting, with the added bonus of experiencing Inuit culture.

Every spring, Arviat has a unique opportunity to show visitors the massive caribou migration that passes by just inland from the community.

Performers young and old make up the Arviat Cultural Performance Troupe: Nuatie Suluk (left) and Helen Konek.

Below: Helen Konek (left) listens intently as one of the guests tries to express her admiration.

10

arcticjournal.ca

May/June 2011

Peter Mikeeuniaq explains the old way of life to a guest at the traditional Inuit camp near Arviat, which featured both an iglu and a tupik (caribou skin tent).

A local Arviat dog-team transports guests out onto the sea ice to visit the traditional Inuit camp.

These are two world-class wildlife-viewing opportunities in themselves, made that much more attractive by the chance to experience first-hand the strong cultural heritage that remains vibrant in Arviat.

Tour operators in Churchill, sport-fishing and hunting camps west of Arviat, local outfitters, and wildlife-viewing lodges in northern Manitoba have all indicated interest in delivering groups of their guests to the Arviat cultural program, perhaps for a one-day program, sometimes for overnight visits. Arviat is nearly ready to begin operating a remote mobile camp for the caribou migration experience. And in the longer term, Arviat will develop its own wildlife-viewing lodge, removed from but accessed through the community. All of these operations will feed the community cultural program — that is the concept upon which ACE is founded.

Mary Okatsiak has a skin-bag full of old tools which she uses to explain the skills needed for the traditional way of life.

Lois Suluk-Locke (left) and Pauline Pemik (right) throat-singing for 30 guests at the celebration dinner during the January test-run in Arviat.

Left to right: Lois Suluk-Locke, Pauline Pemik, Guillaume Saladin, Cecilia Kriniksie and Julia Pingoshat — all members of the Arviat Cultural Performance Troupe, a central element for Arviat’s new tourism initiative.

May/June 2011

above & beyond

11

© JOSHUA PEARLMAN (3)

Regalee Curley (left), and Bernadette Illungiayok (right), at work in the Kiluk Sewing Centre in Arviat.

Abraham Eetuk (right), Arviat's Community Host, and Guillaume Saladin, staging director for the Arviat Cultural Performance Troupe, examine a soapstone carving on display at the visitors centre.

12

arcticjournal.ca

Over the past year, under contract with Nunavut Tunngavik Inc. (NTI) and Kivalliq Inuit Association (KIA), significant application of land claims Inuit Impact and Benefits Agreement (IIBA) funding has been dedicated to the ACE initiative: local capacity building, product development and marketing. The Tourism Company, one of the top tourism-consulting firms in Canada, is facilitating the process. Mike Robbins, project manager, was part of the team who did the original community-based tourism plans in Nunavut in the 1980s.

The Tourism Company team of experts has arranged grassroots training in hospitality, eco-guide services, small boat safety, photography, cooking for visitors, book-keeping for small businesses, heritage interpretive presentation, event planning and performance staging, and much more. Guillaume Saladin, director of Igloolik’s renowned ArtCirq troupe, is helping Arviat to create a professional stage-show featuring traditional Inuit music and dance.

Progress has been substantial. Three new tourism-related businesses are in start-up mode, with more to come. A local Tourism Co-ordinator has been hired. The marketing strategy for Arviat, including a strong web presence, has been launched. Discussions for Arviat’s own wildlife-viewing lodge are underway. Relationships with the Churchillbased tour operators and others internationally have been developed — the first Familiarization (FAM) tour for operator-partners is scheduled for this May. Within the next year, the flow of tourists to Arviat will begin. And all this growth will continue. The Tourism Company’s role is to facilitate the ACE development through 2013-14.

At the January test run, Arviat reached a major milestone. Feasting on gourmet country foods that evening, reflecting on the day’s activity, participating members of the community realized what they had accomplished as a result of the hard work, all the training and preparation, and could really see for the first time what is possible, where Arviat is headed with this tourism initiative.

Sustainable community-based tourism is on its way in Arviat at a scale and scope unprecedented in Nunavut.

Below: Silas Illungiayok performs a drum-dance during the evening of celebration at the January test-run.

May/June 2011

About the North

© DOUG MCLARTY (3)

Sivurariaqnik Career Showcase

First Air Boeing 767 lands for the first time in Rankin Inlet, to demonstrate the airline’s commitment to the Kivalliq region.

On March 31, First Air unveiled their

with its first load into Rankin Inlet on Saturday

Sivurariaqnik employment program in Rankin

April 2 with close to 95,000 lbs of freight

Sakku Investments Corporation to create the

Inlet with a career showcase at the Siniktarvik

including 20 snow machines.

new Kivalliq airline Sakku First Aviation Ltd.

Hotel in the afternoon, followed by an event at the airport that evening.

agreement was reached between First Air and

First Air President and CEO, Scott Bateman,

First Air and Sakku First Aviation Ltd

presented KIA President Joe Kaludjak with a

have dedicated significant resources to

Over 700 members of the community came

model B767 aircraft as congratulations, and

providing meaningful career and skills training

out to the airport anticipating the arrival of

thanked both Mr. Kaludjak and Kono Tattuinee,

opportunities in the North. Through their

First Air’s Boeing 767 aircraft. This is the first

Vice-Chair of Sakku Investments Corporation,

Sivurariaqnik program, the airlines are

time an aircraft of that size has landed in Rankin

for the partnership between the Kivalliq Region,

committed to creating a solid foundation for

Inlet. The freighter further demonstrated its

Sakku First Aviation Ltd and First Air. This event

increased aboriginal employment.

capabilities of operating in the Kivalliq region

took place only months after a joint venture

The Project North Initiative Friday, April 15, was a big, big day for the aspiring young hockey stars of Pond Inlet, Nunavut. The Project North initiative, in conjunction with the National Hockey League Players Association (NHLPA), contributing businesses, and with the assistance of First Air, brought $25,000 of hockey equipment donated by the NHLPA Goals and Dreams Fund to the community. Pictured here, NHLPA representative, Kyle Quincey, of the Colorado Avalanche, helps a young Nunavummiut suit © MICHELLE VALBERG

up for a game of scrimmage.

14

arcticjournal.ca

May/June 2011

Sustainable Fishery Memorandum Looking to develop a sustainable fishery management plan for the Beaufort Sea — the Inuvialuit of this western coastal Arctic region and the federal government agreed to a memorandum of understanding banning issuance of new commercial licenses until a plan is in place.

© MICHELLE VALBERG

Are Seals Really Jealous of Bears?

Oh no! Those polar bears are getting all the attention. Again! First we hear that their survival is at risk due to climate change. If you ask the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) that is.

Then, we find out that, no, bears in Nunavut, at least, seem to be plentiful, healthy and thriving as never before. That information according to Inuit hunters.

Then there’s the ban on the importation of polar bear hides. Well, in the United States at least. And now to top it all, we get news that our northern bears are being hunted in increasing numbers in Hudson Bay and that their hides are commanding record prices from buyers in Canada and abroad. Suppliers are unable to keep up with demand. This from the people who should know — Fur Harvesters Inc. in North Bay, Ontario.

Makes it very difficult to understand where our responsibilities and priorities should or might be — or are — when it comes to sustaining our polar bears.

May/June 2011

above & beyond

15

High Arctic Climate Change Study Again, this year, under extreme weather conditions, a large team of scientists and explorers from Canada, the US and the UK, are conducting ice and oceanographic experiments in Canada’s High Arctic to better understand the effects of climate change in the North.

The Catlin Arctic Survey began its work in 2009; that year studying the polar ice-cap ice surface to collect data that would help form

16

arcticjournal.ca

May/June 2011

© CATLIN ARCTIC SURVEY/MARTIN-HARTLEY

projections on how long Arctic Ocean ice would remain a year-round polar feature. In 2010 the team studied levels of acidification present in northern polar waters to better understand climate change impacts on the biology of the Arctic food chain.

Their objectives in 2011 involve gathering crucial on-site scientific data at their High Arctic base camp on Ellef Ringnes Island (78º 37’N) in the Qikiqtaaluk Region of the Canadian Arctic Archipelago. The Survey is also conducting challenging exploratory team treks across the floating sea ice to study changes in ocean currents.

For more information, see Catlin Arctic Survey’s website and blog at: www.catlinarcticsurvey.com with photos, detailed information and progress reports.

Devoted to excellence

W5txoi3u4 WoExc6g5 Executive & Business Suites ˆmJo1i4 gJ3u8Fø5

Renowned Licensed Dining Listed in “Where to Eat in Canada”

Free Wireless Internet, Business Services In-room Coffee & Cable TV sçMstø5\hv5g4f5 Conference Facilities vtm4Fc6g5 Complimentary Shuttle

X˛yu4 x4/6gw0Jtø5

Tel: (867) 979-4433 Fax: (867) 979-6591

stay@discoverylodge.com www.discoverylodge.com May/June 2011

IQALUIT, NUNAVUT above & beyond

17

About the North

Never Been Attempted Before In an effort to inspire other youth to get active and get outside, the Pitterak team of Nunavummiut, siblings Sarah and Eric McNairLandry, departed Inuvik, NWT, on March 19, 2011 on an E-X-T-R-E-M-E Northwest Passage adventure.They plan to kite ski 3,000 km to Pond Inlet, Nunavut, on a journey of approximately three months.

Follow Sarah and Eric’s Pitterak adventures via the blogs

© CURTIS JONES

© SARAH MCNAIR-LANDRY

on www.pitterak.com.

18

arcticjournal.ca

May/June 2011

About the North

Norway Encourages Arctic Dialogue Norway’s Arctic initiatives seek to take a leading role in the development of a healthy and sustainable social and economic future for all the peoples of the northern hemisphere.

Norway, as an active member of the eightnation Arctic Council, is working hard with international partners to demonstrate that northern issues are at the top of their own country’s foreign policy program. Focused on the imperilled circumpolar environment and the present and future challenges of climate change, Norway’s Arctic initiatives seek to take a leading role in the development of a healthy and sustainable social and economic future for all the peoples of the northern hemisphere.

Early April of this year (April 7), Norway’s Ambassador to Canada, Her Excellency, Else Berit Eikeland, delivered an impassioned message of engagement and hope for the future of the Arctic during her presentation to the acclaimed Walter and Duncan Gordon Foundation at the prestigious Munk School of © PETER LEYDEN

Global Affairs, in Toronto.

Noting that Norway and Canada have a shared Arctic heritage and a close and mutually beneficial relationship, Ambassador Berit Eikeland encouraged the need for an

holders, while stressing the importance of

development and sustainability in the face of

ongoing dialogue between all Arctic nations,

a knowledge-based approach to finding

a changing global environment.

circumpolar indigenous groups and stake-

avenues to responsible future northern

Fabulous Creations by the Artisans of Nunavik

Kuujjuaq, QC Box 729 J0M 1C0 CANADA | Tel: 819-964-1848 Fax: 819-964-1950 | e-mail: info@nunavikcreations.com | online shopping: www.nunavikcreations.com

May/June 2011

above & beyond

19

THE COMING AGE of Arctic Oil and Gas Development Inuit Cautiously Prepare for the Future

By Whit Fraser

© ERECTUS/FOTOLIA.COM

20

arcticjournal.ca

he Inuit Circumpolar Council (ICC), which represents 160 thousand Inuit living in Canada, Greenland, Alaska and Russia, is developing a common position for future environmentally sensitive oil and gas exploration and development in Arctic waters.

The Inuit Council agreed a framework for a formal “Declaration on Resource Development in Inuit Nunaat” during a two-day summit of Arctic Inuit leaders in Ottawa January 23 to 24.

The word “Nunaat” means the traditional Inuit homelands.

The need for a clarified Inuit position emerged at the Copenhagen Convention of Climate Change in December 2009, when Inuit from the four countries were faced with the conflict between combating worldwide greenhouse gas emissions while at the same time encouraging non renewable resource development especially for oil and gas including offshore areas.

When ICC met for its general assembly held in Nuuk, Greenland, in July 2010, the Inuit leadership got its marching orders. “We were given a clear message from the delegates at the General Assembly in July to move forward on many mandates,” said ICC Chair and Greenlander Aqqaluk Lynge, “but the most urgent they told us was to plan an Inuit leaders’ summit on resource development.”

The Premier of Greenland, Kuupik Kleist, is leading the declaration and clarification of the Inuit position. Before becoming Premier of Greenland, Kleist had a long association with the Inuit Circumpolar Council that had hosted the meeting in Ottawa in January 2010.

“Economic, social and political realities,” he said, “make it imperative that Inuit develop a clear position on resource development, especially on the timely, political and environmentally sensitive matter of offshore.”

Greenland and Inuit are very aware of the gulf oil blowout disaster and the calls around the world for a ban on offshore drilling.

T

May/June 2011

s6hxloEi6 vmQ/s?9oxiz μ8NsJ6 wkw s0p6h5yx6gt4 X3N[iz yKi4nj5

ᐃ

ᓄᐃᑦ ᓯᓚᕐᔪᐊᕐᒥ ᑲᑎᒪᔨᖏᑦ, ᑭᒡᒐᖅᑐᐃᔪᑦ 160 ᑕᐅᓴᓂᒃ ᐃᓄᖕᓂᒃ ᑲᓇᑕᒥ, ᐊᑯᑭᑦᑐᓂ, ᐊᓛᔅᑲᒥ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐅᓛᓴᒃᑯᓐᓂ, ᐋᖅᑭᑦᓱᐃᔪᑦ ᐃᓘᓐᓇᖏᓐᓄᑦ ᐊᑐᖅᑕᐅᓂᐊᖅᑐᒥᒃ ᓯᕗᓂᑦᑎᓐᓂ ᐊᕙᑎᑦᑎᓐᓄᑦ ᕿᓚᒥᐊᓗᒃ ᐊᑦᑐᐃᓂᖃᕈᓐᓇᖅᑐᒥᒃ ᐅᖅᓱᐊᓗᑦᓯᐅᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑑᑉ ᐃᒪᖏᓐᓂ ᐊᐅᓚᑦᓯᕙᓪᓕᐊᓂᕐᒥᒃ. ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᑲᑎᒪᔨᖏᑦ ᐊᖏᕈᑎᖃᓚᐅᖅᑐᑦ ᐋᖅᑭᑦᓯᒪᒍᑕᐅᓂᐊᖅᑐᒥᒃ ᓇᓗᓇᐃᖅᑕᐅᓯᒪᔪᒥᒃ “ᐊᖏᕈᑕᐅᓯᒪᔪᖅ ᑮᓇᐅᔭᓕᐅᕈᑎᒃᓴᓂᒃ ᐱᕙᓪᓕᐊᑎᑦᓯᓂᖅ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᓄᓈᓐᓂ” ᐅᓪᓘᓐᓂᒃ ᒪᕐᕉᓐᓂᒃ ᑲᑎᒪᓂᕐᔪᐊᖓᓂ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒥᐅᑦ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᓯᕗᓕᖅᑎᖏᑕ ᐋᑐᕚᒥ ᔭᓐᓄᐊᓕ 23 ᐊᒻᒪᓗ 24. ᐅᖃᐅᓯᖅ ᑖᓐᓇ “ᓄᓈᑦ” ᑐᑭᓕᒃ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᓄᓇᖓᑦ ᐊᖏᕐᕋᑕᕐᕕᒋᓪᓗᒍ. ᐱᑕᖃᕆᐊᖃᕐᓂᖓ ᓇᓗᓇᐃᖅᑕᐅᓯᒪᔪᒥᒃ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᖃᓄᐃᓕᖓᓂᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᓴᖅᑭᓚᐅᖅᑐᖅ ᑰᐸᓐᕼᐃᒐᓐᒥ ᑲᑎᒪᕐᔪᐊᑎᓪᓗᒋᑦ ᓯᓚᐅᑉ ᐊᓯᔾᔨᐸᓪᓕᐊᓂᖓᓂ ᑏᓰᒻᕙ 2009-ᒥ, ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᓯᑕᒪᓃᓐᖔᖅᑐᑦ ᓄᓇᓕᕐᔪᐊᓂᒃ ᓵᓐᖓᑦᓯᔭᕆᐊᖃᓚᐅᖅᑎᓪᓗᒋᑦ ᓈᖕᒪᖏᓪᓕᐅᕈᑎᓂᒃ ᑖᒃᑯᓄᓐᖓᖓᔪᓂᒃ ᐅᓇᑕᕐᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᓯᓚᕐᔪᐊᒥ ᐃᓯᕐᓗᐃᑦ ᐳᔫᖃᑦᑕᕐᓂᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᑕᒪᓐᓇᐅᑎᓪᓗᒍ ᑲᔪᖏᖅᓴᐃᔾᔪᑏᑦ ᐱᕈᒃᑲᓐᓂᕈᓐᓇᖏᑦᑐᓂᒃ ᓄᓇᒦᓐᖔᖅᑐᓂᒃ ᐱᕙᓪᓕᐊᑎᑦᓯᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᐱᓗᐊᖅᑐᒥ ᐅᖅᓱᐊᓗᓕᕆᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᐃᓚᒋᔭᐅᓪᓗᑎᒃ ᐃᑭᕐᒦᑦᑐᑦ. ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᓯᓚᕐᔪᐊᒥ ᑲᑎᒪᔨᖏᑦ ᑲᑎᒪᕐᔪᐊᕐᓂᖏᓐᓂ ᓅᒃ, ᐊᑯᑭᑦᑐᓂ ᔪᓚᐃ 2010-ᒥ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᓯᕗᓕᖅᑎᖏᑦ ᑎᓕᐅᖅᑕᐅᔾᔪᑎᖃᓚᐅᖅᑐᑦ. “ᑐᑭᓯᓇᑦᓯᐊᖅᑐᒥᒃ ᐅᖃᐅᔾᔭᐅᓚᐅᖅᑐᒍ ᑲᑎᒪᔭᖅᑐᖅᓯᒪᔪᓂᒃ ᑲᑎᒪᓂᕐᔪᐊᒥ ᔪᓚᐃᒥ ᓯᕗᒧᐊᒋᐊᖁᔭᐅᓪᓗᑕ ᐅᓄᖅᑐᓂ ᐱᓇᓱᐊᕋᑦᓴᓕᐊᕆᓯᒪᔭᑦᑎᓐᓂ,”ᐅᖃᓚᐅᖅᑐᖅ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᓯᓚᕐᔪᐊᕐᒥ ᑲᑎᒪᔨᖏᑕ ᐃᑦᓯᕙᐅᑕᖓ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐊᑯᑭᑦᑐᒥᐅᑕᖅ ᐊᖅᑲᓗᒃ ᓕᓐᔾ,’ ᑭᓯᐊᓂ ᑐᐊᕕᕐᓇᓂᖅᐸᐅᔪᖅ ᐅᖃᐅᔾᔭᐅᔾᔪᑎᒋᓚᐅᖅᑕᕗᑦ ᐸᕐᓇᒋᐊᖃᕐᓂᖅ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᓯᕗᓕᖅᑏᑦ ᑲᑎᒪᓂᕐᔪᐊᖓᓂᒃ ᑮᓇᐅᔭᓕᐅᕈᑎᒃᓴᓄᑦ ᐱᕙᓪᓕᐊᑎᑦᓯᓂᕐᒥᒃ.” ᐊᑯᑭᑦᑐᑦ ᓯᕗᓕᖅᑎᖓ, ᑰᐱᒃ ᑲᓚᐃᔅᑦ, ᓯᕗᓕᖅᑐᖅ ᐊᖏᕈᑕᐅᓯᒪᔪᒥᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᑐᑭᓯᓇᖅᓯᑎᑕᐅᓯᒪᔪᒥᒃ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᖃᓄᐃᓕᖓᓂᖏᓐᓂ. ᓯᕗᓕᖅᑎᕈᓚᐅᕋᓂ ᐊᑯᑭᑦᑐᓄᑦ, ᑲᓚᐃᔅᑦ ᐊᑯᓂᐊᓗᒃ ᐃᓚᒋᔭᐅᖃᑦᑕᖅᓯᒪᔪᖅ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᓯᓚᕐᔪᐊᕐᒥ ᑲᑎᒪᔨᖏᓐᓄᑦ ᑲᑎᒪᑎᑦᓯᓂᕆᓚᐅᖅᑕᖓ ᐋᑐᕚᒥ ᔭᓐᓄᐊᓕ 2010-ᒥ. “ᒪᑭᒪᔾᔪᑏᑦ, ᐃᓅᓯᓕᕆᓂᖅ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐃᑲᔪᖅᓯᓯᒪᒍᑎᓄᑦ ᓇᓗᓇᐃᖅᑕᐅᓯᒪᔪᑦ,” ᐅᖃᓚᐅᖅᑐᖅ “ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᐋᖅᑭᓱᐃᓪᓚᑦᑖᕆᐊᖃᕈᑎᒋᔭᖏᑦ ᖃᓄᐃᓕᖓᓪᓚᑦᑖᓂᕐᒥᓂᒃ ᑮᓇᐅᔭᓕᐅᕈᑎᒃᓴᓂᒃ ᐱᕙᓪᓕᐊᑎᑦᓯᓂᕐᒥᒃ, ᐱᓗᐊᖅᑐᒥ ᕿᓚᒻᒥᐅᔫᒥᔪᒃᑯᑦ, ᐃᑲᔪᖅᓯᓯᒪᒍᑎᓄᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐊᕙᑎᒧᑦ ᐃᑉᐱᓐᓂᕈᑕᐅᑲᐅᑎᒋᔪᓐᓇᖅᑐᒥᒃ ᐃᑭᕐᒦᑎᓪᓗᒍ.” ᐊᑯᑭᑦᑐᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᖃᐅᔨᒪᓂᖃᑦᓯᐊᖅᑐᑦ ᒐᐅᕝᒥ ᐱᕐᕈᓗᐊᕿᓂᐊᓘᓚᐅᖅᑐᒥᒃ ᐅᖅᓱᐊᓗᑦᓴᒧᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᓯᓚᕐᔪᐊᒥᒃ

May/June 2011

ᑎᑎᕋᖅᑕᖓ ᐅᐃᑦ ᕗᕋᐃᓱ

above & beyond

21

© MARCEL MASON/ITK

At the same time, Greenland has opened areas in the Davis Strait to offshore drilling and has been encouraged by early results offered by Cairn Energy of the UK. Kleist adds if Inuit want “greater political and economic freedom, then the paramount question we must ask ourselves is what price are we prepared to pay?”

In 2009, the fifty-six thousand Greenlanders, of who about 80 per cent are Inuit, won that political and economic freedom in the form of self-reliance and control over resources following 30 years of difficult negotiations with Denmark?

According to the United States geological survey, Greenland waters may contain up to 50 billion barrels of oil, the equivalent of Libya.

While Circumpolar Inuit use the term “open for business” they’re also clear that they will set stringent economic and environmental conditions on development.

ICC’s future support for offshore drilling is directly tied to the Intergovernmental Arctic Council’s already published “Offshore Oil and Gas Guidelines” stating these standards are the “minimum requirements that must be met.”

The Inuit hold a seat as permanent participants on the Arctic Council that is comprised of Governments representing Canada, Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Sweden, Russia, and the United States.

Lynge says the guidelines reflect the fact that “Arctic lands and waters exist in one of the extreme climates where Inuit still depend on the land and sea for their livelihood.

These guidelines focus on the specific challenges of drilling in Arctic waters, including ice, weather conditions and distances”.

Left: Delegate Pita Aatami, Makivik Corporation, discusses a point with Cathy Towtongie.

The guidelines also call for stringent environmental protection measures, including standby drilling rigs and clean up equipment on-site and an international fund to cover liabilities and compensation in the event of a major accident.

The Ottawa summit also stated the Declaration must contain other principles; including assurance that Inuit are primary beneficiaries of future developments and ensuring development respect the UN declaration on the Rights of Indigenous Peoples and Inuit legal rights.

The decision to formalize an Inuit Circumpolar position on resource Development comes after 40 or more year’s experience, both positive and negative, with oil and gas exploration and development in all circumpolar countries.

Edward Itta, Mayor of the North Slope Borough of Alaska that takes in the Prudhoe Bay region, said in his region oil developments lead to the massive Alaska land claim settlement, and that gave Alaskan Inuit more political and economic independence.

Itta said they weren’t prepared for the development in the sixties and seventies but today with educated young leaders, they can negotiate binding social economic and environmental impact agreements. “I only see one way to maintain our economy and 22

arcticjournal.ca

May/June 2011

ᐅᖃᐅᓯᕆᔭᐅᖏᓐᓇᕐᓂᖓ ᓄᖅᑲᖅᑎᑕᐅᖁᔭᐅᓪᓗᓂ ᐃᑭᕐᒥ ᐃᑰᑕᖃᑦᑕᕐᓂᖅ. ᑕᒪᓐᓇᐅᑎᓪᓗᒍ, ᐊᑯᑭᑦᑐᑦ ᒪᑐᐃᖅᓯᓯᒪᑦᑕᕋᓗᐊ ᐊᑯᑭᑦᑐᑦ ᕿᑭᖅᑖᓘᓪᓗ ᐃᑭᕋᓴᖓᓂ ᐃᑭᕐᒥ ᐃᑰᑕᕐᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᑲᔪᖏᖅᓴᐃᔾᔪᑎᑕᖃᕆᐊᓐᖓᓚᐅᖅᑎᓪᓗᒍ ᓴᖅᑭᖅᑕᐅᓚᐅᖅᑐᒥᒃ ᒪᓂᒪᑎᑕᐅᔪᒥᒃ ᑲᐃᓐ ᐊᐅᓚᔪᓐᓇᐅᑎᓕᕆᔨᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᔪᓇᐃᑎᑦ ᑭᖕᑕᓐᒥᐅᓂᒃ. ᑲᓚᐃᔅᑦ ᐅᖃᒃᑲᓂᖅᓯᒪᔪᖅ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᐱᔪᒪᒋᐊᖏᓐᓂᒃ “ᐃᑲᔪᖅᓯᓯᒪᒍᑎᓄᑦ ᓇᓗᓇᐃᖅᑕᐅᓯᒪᔪᒥᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᒪᑭᒪᔾᔪᑎᓄᑦ ᐃᓱᒪᖅᓲᑎᖃᕆᐊᒃᑲᓐᓂᕈᒪᓂᕐᒥᒃ, ᐊᓱᐃᓛᒃ ᐊᐱᖅᑯᑎᓪᓗᐊᑕᖅ ᐅᕙᑦᑎᓐᓄᑦ ᐊᐱᖅᑯᑎᒋᒋᐊᓕᕗᑦ ᖃᓄᑎᒋ ᐸᕐᓇᓯᒪᕕᑕ ᐊᑭᓖᔾᔪᑎᒃᓴᕆᓂᐊᖅᑕᑎᓐᓂᒃ?”

2009-ᒥ, 56 ᑕᐅᓴᓐ ᐊᑯᑭᑦᑐᒥᐅᑦ, ᑖᒃᑯᓇᓐᖓᑦ 80 ᐳᓴᓐᖏᑦ ᐃᓅᓪᓗᑎᒃ, ᓵᓚᒃᓴᓚᐅᖅᑐᑦ ᐃᑲᔪᖅᓯᓯᒪᒍᑎᓄᑦ ᓇᓗᓇᐃᖅᑕᐅᓯᒪᔪᒥᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᒪᑭᒪᔾᔪᑎᓄᑦ ᐃᓱᒪᖅᓲᑎᖃᕆᐊᒃᑲᓐᓂᕈᓐᓇᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᓇᖕᒥᓂᖅ-ᒪᑭᒪᒍᑎᒃᓴᒥᓄᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐊᐅᓚᑦᓯᒍᓐᓇᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᑮᓇᐅᔭᓕᐅᕈᑎᒃᓴᐅᔪᓂᒃ ᐅᑭᐅᓂᒃ 30-ᓂᒃ ᐱᔭᕆᐊᑐᔪᒻᒪᕆᒃᑰᖃᑦᑕᕈᑎᒋᓚᐅᖅᑕᒥᓂᒃ ᐋᔩᕋᕈᑎᖃᖃᑦᑕᑎᓪᓗᒋᑦ ᑎᐊᓐᒫᒃᒥᒃ? ᑖᒃᑯᓇᓐᖔᖅᓯᒪᔪᑦ ᒥᐊᓕᒐᒃᑯᑦ ᓄᓇᓂᒃ ᖃᐅᔨᓴᕐᓂᕆᖃᑦᑕᖅᓯᒪᔭᖏᓐᓂᒃ, ᐊᑯᑭᑦᑑᑉ ᐃᒪᖓᓃᑦᑐᖃᑐᐃᓐᓇᕆᐊᓕᒃ 50 ᐱᓕᔭᓐᓂᒃ ᖃᑦᑕᐅᔭᕐᓂᒃ ᐅᖅᓱᐊᓗᑦᓴᓂᒃ, ᐊᖏᑎᒋᓂᖃᖃᑎᖏᑦ ᓕᐱᔭ. ᓯᓚᕐᔪᐊᒥ ᐃᓄᖏᑦ ᐊᑐᖃᑦᑕᑎᓪᓗᒋᑦ ᐅᖃᐅᓯᖅᑕᕐᒥᒃ “ᒪᑐᐃᖓᔪᖅ ᐱᓕᕆᐊᒃᓴᓄᑦ” ᑐᑭᓯᓇᑦᓯᐊᕐᒥᔪᑦ ᐋᖅᑭᑦᓯᓂᐊᕐᓂᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᐱᔭᕆᐊᑭᓐᖏᑦᑐᓂᒃ ᒪᑭᒪᔾᔪᑎᓄᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐊᕙᑎᒧᑦ ᒪᓕᒐᑦᓴᓂᒃ ᐱᕙᓪᓕᐊᑎᑦᓯᓂᕐᒧᑦ. ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᓯᓚᕐᔪᐊᒥ ᑲᑎᒪᔨᖏᑦ ᓯᕗᓂᑦᑎᓐᓂ ᐃᑲᔪᖅᓱᕐᓂᕆᓂᐊᖅᑕᖏᑦ ᐃᑭᕐᒥ ᐃᑰᑕᕐᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᐱᑐᑦᓯᒪᔪᑦ ᒐᕙᒪᓕᕆᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒥ ᑲᑎᒪᔨᖏᓐᓄᑦ ᓴᖅᑭᖅᑕᐅᕌᓂᑦᓯᒪᔪᓄᑦ “ᐃᑭᕐᒥ ᐅᖅᓱᐊᓗᑦᓴᓕᕆᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᐊᑐᐊᖅᓯᔾᔪᑏᑦ” ᐅᖃᖅᓯᒪᔪᑦ ᑕᒪᒃᑯᐊ ᐊᑐᖅᑕᐅᔭᕆᐊᓖᑦ “ᒥᑦᓯᑎᓐᓅᕈᓐᓇᖏᑦᑐᑦ ᐊᑐᖅᑕᐅᒋᐊᓖᑦ ᐊᑐᖅᑕᐅᖃᑦᑕᕆᐊᖃᕐᓂᐊᖅᑐᑦ.” ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᐃᑦᓯᕙᐅᑕᖃᖅᑎᑕᐅᔪᑦ ᐃᓚᒋᔭᐅᓪᓚᑦᑖᕈᑎᒋᔭᒥᓂᒃ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒥ ᑲᑎᒪᔨᖏᓐᓂ ᑖᒃᑯᓇᓐᖔᖅᓯᒪᔪᓂᒃ ᑲᓇᑕᐅᑉ ᒐᕙᒪᖏᓐᓂ, ᑎᐊᓐᒫᒃ, ᕕᓐᓚᓐ, ᐊᐃᔅᓚᓐ, ᓱᐃᑕᓐ, ᐅᓛᓴᒃᑯᑦ, ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᒥᐊᓕᒐᕐᒥᐅᑦ. ᓕᓐᔾ ᐅᖃᖅᑐᖅ ᐊᑐᐊᖅᓯᔾᔪᑏᑦ ᑖᒃᑯᓇᓐᖔᖅᓯᒪᔪᑦ ᓱᓕᓪᓚᑖᖅᑐᒥᒃ “ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑑᑉ ᓄᓇᖏᑦ ᐃᒪᖏᓪᓗ ᖃᓄᐃᓐᓂᖅᐹᖑᔪᓐᓇᖅᑐᓃᓐᖔᖅᑐᑦ ᓯᓚᖓᓂᒃ ᐃᓄᓐᓄᑦ ᓱᓕ ᐃᓅᓯᕐᒥᒍᑦ ᓱᖏᖅᓲᑎᒋᔭᐅᔪᒥᒃ ᓄᓇᒥᒃ ᑕᕆᐅᕐᒥᓪᓗ ᐃᓅᓇᓱᐊᕈᑎᒋᓪᓗᒍ. ᑕᒪᒃᑯᐊ ᐊᑐᐊᒐᐃᑦ ᑐᕌᖓᔪᑦ ᓇᓗᓇᐃᖅᑕᐅᓯᒪᔪᓂᒃ ᐊᑦᓱᕈᕐᓇᕐᓂᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᐃᑰᑕᕐᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑑᑉ ᐃᒪᖏᓐᓂ,ᐃᓚᒋᔭᐅᓪᓗᑎᒃ ᓯᑯ, ᓯᓚᖓ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐅᖓᓯᑦᑎᒋᓂᖏᑦ”. ᐊᑐᐊᖅᓯᔾᔪᑎᓃᖃᑕᐅᒻᒥᔪᖅ ᐊᑐᖅᑕᐅᓚᑦᑖᕆᐊᓕᓐᓂᒃ ᐊᕙᑎᐅᑉ ᓴᐳᔾᔭᐅᓯᒪᒍᑎᒃᓴᖏᓐᓂᒃ, ᐃᓚᒋᔭᐅᓪᓗᓂ ᓴᓂᕐᕙᖅᑕᐅᓯᒪᔪᑦ ᐃᑰᑕᕈᑎᒃᓴᑦ ᐋᖅᑭᑦᓯᒪᒋᐊᖃᕐᓂᖏᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᓴᓗᒻᒪᖅᓴᐃᔾᔪᑎᒃᓴᑦ ᐃᑰᑕᕐᕕᖕᒦᒋᐊᖃᕐᓂᖏᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᓄᓇᕐᔪᐊᕐᒥᐅᖑᖃᑎᒌᓂᒃ ᑮᓇᐅᔭᖃᖅᑎᑕᐅᒍᑏᑦ ᐊᑭᓕᐅᑎᒃᓴᑦ ᒪᓕᒐᖅᑎᒍᑦ ᐱᕐᕈᓗᐊᕿᓂᐅᔪᓄᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᓇᓪᓕᐅᒃᑯᒫᑦ ᐊᑭᓕᐅᑎᑦᓴᑦ ᐱᕐᕈᓗᐊᕿᔪᖃᕐᔪᐊᓂᖅᐸᑦ. ᐋᑐᕚᒥ ᑲᑎᒪᕐᔪᐊᓂᕐᒥ ᓇᓗᓇᐃᖅᑕᐅᓚᐅᕐᒥᔪᖅ ᐊᖏᕈᑎᒦᖃᑕᐅᒋᐊᖃᕐᓂᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᑐᓐᖓᕕᒋᔭᐅᓂᐊᖅᑐᑦ ᐊᓯᖏᑦ; ᐃᓚᒋᔭᐅᓪᓗᑎᒃ ᓇᓗᓇᐃᖅᓯᒍᑏᑦ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᐱᔪᑦᓴᒫᓪᓗᐊᑕᐅᓂᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᓯᕗᓂᑦᑎᓐᓂ ᐱᕙᓪᓕᐊᑎᑕᐅᓂᐊᖅᑐᓂᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐱᕙᓪᓕᐊᓂᐅᔪᑦ ᒪᓕᑦᓯᒪᑦᓯᐊᕋᓗᐊᕐᒪᖔᑕ ᓯᓚᕐᔪᐊᒥ ᑲᑎᒪᔨᖏᑕ ᐊᖏᕈᑎᒋᓯᒪᔭᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᐱᔪᓐᓇᐅᑎᖃᕐᓂᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᓄᓇᖃᖅᑲᖅᓯᒪᔪᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᒪᓕᒐᖅᑎᒍᑦ ᐱᔪᓐᓇᐅᑎᖃᕐᓂᖏᓐᓂᒃ. ᐃᓱᒪᓕᐅᕈᑕᐅᓚᐅᖅᑐᖅ ᓇᓗᓇᐃᖅᓯᒋᐊᖃᕐᓂᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᓯᓚᕐᔪᐊᒥ ᖃᓄᐃᓕᖓᒍᑎᓕᐅᕆᐊᖃᕐᓂᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᑮᓇᐅᔭᓕᐅᕈᑎᒃᓴᓄᑦ ᐱᕙᓪᓕᐊᓂᐅᔪᓂᒃ ᑭᖑᓂᐊᒍᑦ 40 ᐅᖓᑖᓂᓘᓐᓃᑦ ᐊᕐᕌᒍᓂᒃ ᐊᑐᖅᑕᐅᓚᐅᖅᑎᓪᓗᒍ, ᑕᒪᒃᑮᓐᓂᒃ ᐱᐅᔪᓂᒃ ᐱᐅᓐᖏᑦᑐᓂᓪᓗ, ᐅᖅᓱᐊᓗᑦᓴᓯᐅᕐᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐱᕙᓪᓕᐊᑎᑕᐅᔪᓂ ᑕᒪᐃᓐᓂ ᓯᓚᕐᔪᐊᒥ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑑᑉ ᓄᓇᓕᒫᖓᓄᑦ. ᐄᑐᐊ ᐃᑦᑕ, ᒪᐃᔭ ᓄᐊᔅ ᓯᓘᑉ ᕘᕈ ᐊᓛᔅᑲᒥ ᑎᒍᒥᐊᖅᑐᖅ ᐳᕉᑦᕼᐅ ᕙᐃᒥᒃ, ᐅᖃᓚᐅᖅᑐᖅ ᓄᓇᒋᔭᖓᓂ ᐅᖅᓱᐊᓗᓕᕆᓂᖅ ᑎᑭᐅᑎᒍᑕᐅᓚᐅᖅᑐᖅ ᐊᖏᔪᕐᔪᐊᕌᓗᒻᒧᑦ ᐊᓛᔅᑲᒥ ᓄᓇᑖᕈᑎᓄᑦ, ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᑕᒪᓐᓇ ᐊᓛᔅᑲ ᐃᓄᖏᓐᓄᑦ ᐃᑲᔪᖅᓯᓯᒪᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᓇᓗᓇᐃᖅᓯᖃᑦᑕᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᒪᑭᒪᔾᔪᑎᓄᑦ ᐃᓛᒃᑰᖓᓂᕐᒥᒃ. ᐃᑦᑕ ᐅᖃᓚᐅᖅᑐᖅ ᐸᕐᓇᓯᒪᓚᐅᓐᖏᑦᑐᑦ ᐱᕙᓪᓕᐊᑎᑕᐅᔪᓄᑦ 1960ᖏᓐᓂ 1970-ᖏᓐᓂᓗ ᑭᓯᐊᓂ ᐅᓪᓗᒥ ᐃᓕᓐᓂᐊᖅᓯᒪᓕᕐᓂᖏᓐᓄᑦ ᒪᒃᑯᑦᑐᑦ ᓯᕗᓕᖅᑏᑦ, ᐋᔩᕋᕈᑎᖃᖃᑦᑕᕈᓐᓇᖅᓯᒪᔪᑦ ᑖᒃᑯᓄᓐᖓᖓᔪᓂᒃ ᐃᓅᓯᕐᒧᑦ ᒪᑭᒪᔾᔪᑎᒃᓴᓂᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐊᕙᑎᐅᑉ ᐊᑦᑐᖅᑕᐅᓂᐊᕐᓂᖏᓐᓄᑦ ᐊᖏᕈᑎᓂᒃ.

© 2011 SCOTT DICKERSON/ALASKASTOCK.COM

Aerial view of an oil well drilling platform on a man-made island and surrounded by broken sea ice, Prudhoe Bay, Beaufort Sea near Deadhorse, Arctic Alaska.

subsistence and it is by working with them,” (industry and governments) said Itta.

Canadian Nellie Cournoyea, a former premier of the NWT and Chair of the Inuvialuit Regional Corporation, and one of the partners in the proposed Mackenzie Valley Pipeline, echoed the view that the economic future for Inuit is closely tied to oil and gas development.

Cournoyea, who is also well known within the Canadian oil Industry as a tough negotiator, says the Inuit declaration must reflect the constitutionally binding comprehensive Canadian Inuit Land Claim Settlements, adding that “a government benefits package is much lighter than our claims.

The will and intent of those claims needs to be expressed in the Arctic Council.”

Premier Kleist acknowledges Greenland’s decision to proceed with drilling in the Davis Strait is a matter of considerable concern to the Government of Canada. “I have had a dialogue with the Canadian Minister of the Environment and now Canadian employees will be on the drilling sites along our West Coast.”

Canada’s Minister responsible for the Northern regions, Health Minister Leona Aglukkaq, who is also the conservative MP for Nunavut, put the federal government clearly on side with the Inuit. “Canada is actively taking on the same issues you are here to discuss, namely resource development in the Arctic.

Internationally, we continue to support the Arctic Council as the leading forum to advance our Arctic foreign policy.”

Although the Government of Nunavut did not attend the Summit because of a conflict with the opening of the Nunavut Legislative Assembly, recent initiatives by Nunavut indicate the Territory is concerned that it is not getting

“ᑕᑯᓐᓇᖅᑐᖓ ᐊᑕᐅᓯᑐᐊᖑᓂᖓᓂᒃ ᐊᖅᑯᑕᐅᔪᓐᓇᖅᑐᖅ ᐋᖅᑭᐅᒪᑦᓯᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᒪᑭᒪᔾᔪᑎᒃᓴᑎᓐᓂᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐊᓐᓇᐅᒪᒍᑎᒃᓴᓂᒃ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔭᖃᑎᒋᓗᒋᑦ ᑭᓯᐊᓂ,” (ᐱᓕᕆᕝᕕᔾᔪᐊᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᒐᕙᒪᑦ) ᐅᖃᓚᐅᖅᑐᖅ ᐃᑦᑕ. ᑲᓇᑕᒥᐅᖅ ᓂᐊᓕ ᑯᐊᓐᓄᐃᔩ, ᓯᕗᓕᖅᑎᐅᓚᐅᖅᓯᒪᔪᖅ ᓄᓇᑦᓯᐊᒥ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐃᑦᓯᕙᐅᑕᖅ ᐃᓄᕕᐊᓗᐃᑦ ᑯᐊᐳᕇᓴᖏᓐᓄᑦ, ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐃᓚᒋᔭᐅᔪᖅ ᑲᑐᔾᔨᖃᑎᒌᑦᑐᓄᑦ ᒪᑭᓐᔨ ᕚᓕᒥ ᓱᓪᓗᓕᓕᕆᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᑐᒃᓯᕌᖑᔪᒧᑦ, ᐊᑭᐊᓂᖃᑐᐃᓐᓇᓚᐅᖅᑐᖅ ᑕᑯᓐᓇᖅᑕᐅᔪᒥᒃ ᒪᑭᒪᔾᔪᑎᒃᓴᓂᒃ ᓯᕗᓂᑦᑎᓐᓂ ᐃᓄᖕᓄᑦ ᕿᓚᑦᓯᒪᓂᖃᕐᓂᖓᓂᒃ ᐅᖅᓱᐊᓗᒃᓴᓕᕆᓂᕐᒧᑦ. ᑯᐊᓐᓄᐃᔩ, ᖃᐅᔨᒪᔭᐅᑦᓯᐊᖅᑐᖅ ᑲᓇᑕᒥᐅᓂ ᐅᖅᓱᐊᓗᓕᕆᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᐱᓕᕆᕝᕕᔾᔪᐊᓂᒃ ᐋᔩᕋᖅᑎᐅᓂᖓᓂᒃ ᐱᔭᖅᑯᑦᑐᓵᕐᓇᑐᒻᒪᕆᐅᓂᖓᓂᒃ, ᐅᖃᓚᐅᖅᑐᖅ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᐊᖏᕈᑎᒋᔭᖓ ᑖᒃᑯᓇᓐᖔᖅᓯᒪᔭᕆᐊᖃᕐᓂᖓᓂᒃ ᑐᓐᖓᕕᒋᔭᐅᔪᒥᒃ ᕿᓚᑦᓯᒪᔪᒥᒃ ᐊᑕᖐᓯᒪᑦᓯᐊᖅᑐᒥᒃ ᑲᓇᑕᒥ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᓄᓇᑖᕐᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᐊᖏᕈᑎᒋᓯᒪᔭᖏᓐᓂᒃ, ᐅᖃᒃᑲᓐᓂᕆᓪᓗᓂ “ᒐᕙᒪᒃᑯᓐᓂᒃ ᐃᑲᔫᓯᐊᑦᓴᐅᔪᑦ ᑲᑎᑕᐅᓯᒪᔪᑦ ᐅᕿᓐᓂᓴᒻᒪᕆᐊᓘᓂᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᓄᓇᑖᕐᓂᕆᓯᒪᔭᑦᑎᓐᓂᒃ. ᐱᔭᕆᐊᓕᖏᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐱᔾᔪᑕᐅᔪᑦ ᓄᓇᑖᖅᓯᒪᒍᑕᐅᔪᓂᒃ ᓇᓗᓇᐃᖅᓯᒪᔭᐅᒋᐊᓖᑦ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒥ ᑲᑎᒪᔨᖏᓐᓂ.” ᓯᕗᓕᖅᑎ ᑲᓚᐃᔅᑦ ᐃᓕᓴᖅᓯᐅᒪᔪᖅ ᐊᑯᑭᑦᑐᑦ ᐃᓱᒪᓕᐅᕈᑎᒋᓯᒪᔭᖓᓂᒃ ᑲᔪᓯᑎᑦᓯᒍᒪᓪᓗᑎᒃ ᐃᑰᑕᕐᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᐊᑯᑭᑦᑐᑦ ᕿᑭᖅᑖᓘᓪᓗ ᐃᑭᕋᓴᖓᓂ ᐃᓱᒫᓘᓐᓇᑐᒻᒪᕆᐅᕗᖅ ᑲᓇᑕᐅᑉ ᒐᕙᒪᒃᑯᖏᓐᓄᑦ. “ᐅᖃᖃᑎᒋᓚᐅᕋᒃᑯ ᑲᓇᑕᒥᐅᑦ ᒥᓂᔅᑕᖓ ᐊᕙᑎᓕᕆᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᒫᓐᓇ ᑲᓇᑕᒥᐅᑦ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔭᖅᑏᑦ ᑕᒫᓂᖃᑕᐅᓂᐊᓕᖅᑐᑦ ᐃᑰᑕᕐᕕᐅᔪᓂ ᐱᖓᓐᓇᑦᑕ ᓯᓈᓃᑦᑐᓂ.” ᑲᓇᑕᐅᑉ ᒥᓂᔅᑕᖓ ᑲᒪᒋᔭᖃᖅᑐᖅ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒥ ᓄᓇᖏᓐᓂᒃ, ᐋᓐᓂᐊᖃᕐᓇᖏᑦᑐᓕᕆᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᒥᓂᔅᑕ ᓕᐅᓇ ᐊᒡᓘᒃᑲᖅ, ᑲᓐᓲᕕᑎᕝᑯᓐᓄᑦ ᑲᑎᒪᔨᐅᖃᑕᐅᓪᓗᓂ ᒪᓕᒐᓕᐅᖅᑎᕐᔪᐊᖓ ᓄᓇᕗᑦ, ᒐᕙᒪᑐᖃᒃᑯᓐᓂᒃ ᑕᑉᐱᓯᒪᑎᑦᓯᔪᒻᒪᕆᐅᕗᖅ ᐃᓄᖕᓄᑦ. “ᑲᓇᑕ ᒫᓐᓇ ᑲᒪᒋᔭᖃᕐᒥᔪᖅᑕᐅᖅ ᑖᒃᑯᓂᖓᑦᓴᐃᓐᓇᖅ ᐃᓱᒫᓘᑎᒋᔭᑦᓯᓐᓂᒃ ᐋᔩᕋᕈᑎᒋᒋᐊᖅᑐᖅᓯᒪᔭᑦᓯᓐᓂᒃ ᑕᕝᕗᓐᖓᕈᑎᒋᓯᒪᔭᑦᓯᓐᓂᒃ, ᑖᑦᓱᒥᖓ ᑮᓇᐅᔭᓕᐅᕈᑎᒃᓴᓂᒃ ᐱᕙᓪᓕᐊᑎᑦᓯᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒥ. ᓯᓚᕐᔪᐊᒥᐅᖑᖃᑎᒌᓂ, ᐃᑲᔪᖅᓯᓯᒪᐃᓐᓇᖅᑕᕗᑦ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒥ ᑲᑎᒪᔨᖏᑦ ᓯᕗᓕᕐᓂᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᑲᑎᒪᔨᐅᓪᓗᑎᒃ ᑲᑦᓱᖓᐃᖅᑎᑦᓯᒋᐊᖅᑐᒃᓴᒫᑦ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒥ ᓄᓇᕐᔪᐊᒥ ᐊᓯᐊᓃᓐᖔᖅᑐᓂᒃ ᐊᑐᐊᒐᕐᓂᒃ.” ᓄᓇᕗᑦ ᒐᕙᒪᒃᑯᖏᑦ ᑕᐃᑲᓃᓚᐅᓐᖏᒃᑲᓗᐊᖅᑎᓪᓗᒋᑦ ᑲᑎᒪᓂᕐᔪᐊᒥ ᐊᑲᐅᓈᓚᐅᓐᖏᓐᓂᖓᓄᑦ ᒪᑐᐃᖅᑕᐅᑎᓪᓗᒍ ᓄᓇᕗᒻᒥ ᒪᓕᒐᓕᐅᖅᑏᑦ ᑲᑎᒪᓂᖓ, ᐱᒋᐊᖅᑎᑕᐅᕙᓪᓕᐊᕋᑖᓚᐅᖅᑐᑦ ᓄᓇᕗᒻᒥ ᓇᓗᓇᐃᖅᓯᓯᒪᕗᑦ ᓄᓇᑦᑎᓐᓂ ᐃᓱᒫᓘᑎᒋᔭᐅᓂᖓᓂᒃ ᑲᒪᒋᔭᐅᑦᓯᐊᓐᖏᓗᐊᕐᓂᖓᓂᒃ ᐅᖅᓱᐊᓗᓕᕆᔨᐅᔪᓂᒃ ᑲᒻᐸᓂᓂᒃ. ᓅᕙᐃᒻᕙᐅᖅᑲᐅᔪᒥ,ᓄᓇᕗᑦ ᒐᕙᒪᖓ ᐊᑭᓖᓯᒪᓪᓗᓂ ᑲᑎᒪᕐᔪᐊᕐᓂᖃᖅᑎᑦᓯᓚᐅᖅᑐᖅ ᐱᕚᓪᓕᕈᑎᑦᓴᕆᑐᐃᓐᓇᕆᐊᓕᒻᒥᓂᒃ ᐃᑭᕐᒥ ᐅᖅᓱᐊᓗᒃᓴᔭᓕᕆᓂᕐᒥᒃ. ᑐᒃᓯᕋᐅᓯᐊᖑᓯᒪᔪᖅ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᓯᓚᕐᔪᐊᒥ ᑲᑎᒪᔩᑦ ᐊᖏᕈᑎᒋᓯᒪᔭᖓ ᒪᓂᒪᑎᑦᓯᕗᖅ ᓇᓗᓇᐃᖅᓯᒻᒪᕆᒍᑎᒥᒃ ᐅᖅᓱᐊᓗᓕᕆᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᐱᓕᕆᕝᕕᔾᔪᐊᓄᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᒐᕙᒪᓄᑦ ᐱᔾᔪᑎᒋᓪᓗᒍ, ᐊᑭᕋᖅᑐᓚᐅᕋᓗᐊᖅᑎᓪᓗᒋᑦ ᓯᕗᓂᐊᒍᑦ ᐊᖏᔪᒻᒪᕆᐅᑎᓪᓗᒍ ᑮᓇᐅᔭᓕᐅᕈᑎᒃᓴᖅ ᐲᔭᖅᑕᐅᔪᒪᔪᖅ, ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᐃᒪᐃᒻᒪᑕ, ᓯᕗᓕᖅᑎ ᑲᓚᐃᔅᑦ ᐅᖃᐅᓯᖓᒍᑦ, “ᐃᓚᒋᒻᒪᒍ ᓯᓚᕐᔪᐊᒥ ᒪᑭᒪᔾᔪᑎᒃᓴᑦ.” ᑕᕝᕗᓐᖓᖓᒻᒥᔪᖅᑕᐅᖅ ᑕᕝᕙᓂᑦᓴᐃᓐᓇᖅ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᓯᕗᓕᖅᑎᖏᑦ ᓄᓇᕐᔪᐊᖅ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᖓᓂ ᑐᑭᓯᓇᑦᓯᐊᕐᒥᔪᑦ ᐱᑐᐃᓐᓇᐅᔾᔮᖏᓐᓂᕐᒥᓂᒃ ᐊᔩᕋᖅᑎᒋᔭᐅᓂᕐᒥᓄᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐊᖏᖅᑎᐅᔪᑦ ᐃᓘᓐᓇᑦ-

May/June 2011

above & beyond

23

© MARCEL MASON/ITK

enough attention from petroleum companies. This past November, the Nunavut Government sponsored a symposium promoting the potential of its offshore areas for oil and gas.

The proposed Inuit Circumpolar Council’s declaration offers considerable clarity to the oil industry and governments because, in spite of their previous opposition to large-scale resource extraction, Inuit are, in Premier Kleist’s words, “part of the global economy.” It is also in that same context that the Inuit leaders in the circumpolar Arctic are clear they will be tough negotiators and deal makers on every front: environmental protection, revenue sharing, social-economic benefits and controls.

Interestingly, Inuit leaders from the four circumpolar countries draw a clear dichotomy between offshore oil and gas exploration and mining.

Increasingly in recent years, federal and territorial Governments have been putting more and more economic priority on mineral development and less on petroleum.

Now, Inuit organizations are reminding governments of their long held concerns and opposition towards uranium mining. In the new territory of Nunavut, both the government and land claim organization, Nunavut Tunngavik, have called for reviews of uranium mining policies.

In Greenland, opposition to uranium mining has not changed and the ICC Chairman Aqqaluk Lynge says a move towards a Circumpolar Declaration on Resource Development is not designed to “reopen or change” the organizations long held policy opposing uranium mining in the circumpolar Arctic.

Canada’s National Inuit Leader Mary Simon told a news conference after the meeting that in her view mines have to be considered “on a case by case basis”.

Duane Smith (centre) confers with Okalik Eegeesiak (right). James Eetoolook to the left.

24

arcticjournal.ca

May/June 2011

ᓯᐊᖏᓐᓄᑦ ᑲᒪᒋᔭᐅᔪᒪᔪᓄᑦ:ᐊᕙᑎᒥᒃ ᓴᐳᔾᔨᓯᒪᓂᕐᒧᑦ,ᓂᖏᖅᑕᖅᑏᑦ ᑮᓇᐅᔭᓕᐅᕈᑎᒋᔭᐅᔪᓂᒃ, ᐃᓅᓯᕐᒧᑦᒪᑭᒪᔾᔪᑎᓄᑦ ᐃᑲᔫᓯᐊᕐᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐊᐅᓚᑦᓯᓂᕐᒧᑦ. ᖃᐅᔨᔪᒥᓇᖅᑐᖅ, ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᓯᕗᓕᖅᑏᑦ ᓯᑕᒪᓃᓐᖔᖅᑐᑦ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒥ ᓄᓇᓕᕐᔪᐊᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᓇᓗᓇᐃᖅᓯᓯᒪᑦᓯᐊᖅᑐᑦ ᓈᖕᒪᖏᓪᓕᐅᕈᑕᐅᔪᓂᒃ ᐃᓚᐅᕕᖃᕐᓂᐊᖏᓐᓂᕐᒥᓂᒃ ᐃᑭᕐᒥ ᐅᖅᓱᐊᓗᑦᓴᓂᐅᕐᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐅᔭᕋᓐᓂᐊᓂᕐᒧᑦ. ᐱᕙᓪᓕᐊᑐᐃᓐᓇᖅᑐᖅ ᒫᓐᓇᒫᖑᓂᖅᓴᖅ ᐊᕐᕌᒍᓂ, ᒐᕙᒪᑐᖃᒃᑯᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒥ ᒐᕙᒪᖏᑦ ᒪᑭᒪᔾᔪᑎᓂᒃ ᓯᕗᓪᓕᐸᐅᔾᔨᕙᓪᓕᐊᑐᐃᓐᓇᕐᓂᖏᑦ ᐅᔭᕋᓐᓂᐊᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᑲᒪᓐᖏᓂᖅᓴᐅᓕᖅᑐᑎᒃ ᐅᖅᓱᐊᓗᓕᕆᓂᕐᒥᒃ. ᒫᓐᓇ, ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᑲᑐᔾᔨᖃᑎᒌᑦ ᐃᖅᑲᐃᑎᑦᓯᒋᐊᖃᑦᑕᖅᑐᑦ ᒐᕙᒪᓂᒃ ᐃᓱᒫᓘᑎᒌᓐᓇᖅᑕᒥᓂᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐊᑭᕋᖅᑐᓂᕐᒥᓂᒃ ᓄᖑᔪᐃᑦᑐᑦᓴᔭᓂᒃ ᐅᔭᕋᓐᓂᐊᓂᕐᒥᒃ. ᓄᑖᒥ ᓄᓇᑖᖑᕋᑖᓚᐅᖅᑐᒥ ᓄᓇᕗᒻᒥ, ᑕᒪᒃᑭᒃ ᒐᕙᒪᒃᑯᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᓄᓇᑖᕐᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᐊᖏᕈᑎᓄᑦ ᑎᒥᓐᖑᖅᑎᑕᐅᓯᒪᔪᑦ, ᓄᓇᕗᑦ ᑐᓐᖓᕕᒃᑯᑦ, ᕿᒥᕐᕈᓇᖁᔨᓯᒪᕗᑦ ᓄᖑᔪᐃᑦᑐᑦᓴᔭᓂᒃ ᐅᔭᕋᓐᓂᐊᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᐊᑐᐊᒐᕐᓂᒃ. ᐊᑯᑭᑦᑐᓂ, ᐊᑭᕋᖅᑐᖅᑕᐅᓂᖓ ᓄᖑᔪᐃᑦᑐᑦᓴᔭᓂᒃ ᐅᔭᕋᓐᓂᐊᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᐊᓯᔾᔨᖅᓯᒪᓐᖏᑦᑐᖅ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᓯᓚᕐᔪᐊᒥ ᑲᑎᒪᔩᑦ ᐃᑦᓯᕙᐅᑕᖓ ᐊᖅᑲᓗᒃ ᓕᓐᔾ ᐅᖃᖅᑐᖅ ᓯᕗᒧᐊᑉᐸᓪᓕᐊᓂᖅ ᓯᓚᕐᔪᐊᒥ ᐊᖏᕈᑕᐅᓯᒪᔪᓄᑦ ᑮᓇᐅᔭᓕᐅᕈᑎᒃᓴᓄᑦ ᐱᕙᓪᓕᐊᑎᑦᓯᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᐋᖅᑭᑦᑕᐅᓯᒪᓐᖏᑦᑐᖅ “ᒪᑐᐃᖅᓯᑲᓐᓂᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᐊᓯᔾᔩᓂᕐᒥᓘᓐᓃᑦ” ᑲᑐᔾᔨᖃᑎᒌᑦ ᑎᒍᒥᐊᖅᑕᑐᖄᓗᐊᓂᒃ ᐊᑐᐊᒐᕐᒥᒃ ᐊᑭᕋᖅᑐᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᓄᖑᔪᐃᑦᑐᑦᓴᔭᒥᒃ ᐅᔭᕋᓐᓂᐊᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᓯᓚᕐᔪᐊᒥ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᖓᓂ. ᑲᓇᑕᒥ ᐃᓄᓕᒫᑦ ᓯᕗᓕᖅᑎᖓ ᒥᐊᕆ ᓴᐃᒪᓐ ᐅᖃᓚᐅᖅᑐᖅ ᐱᕙᓪᓕᐊᔪᓕᕆᔨᓄᑦ ᑲᑎᒪᓚᐅᖅᑎᓪᓗᒋᑦ ᑕᑯᓐᓇᖅᑕᒥᒍᑦ ᐅᔭᕋᓐᓂᐊᕐᓃᑦ ᐃᓱᒪᑦᓴᖅᓯᐅᕈᑕᐅᖃᑦᑕᕆᐊᖃᕐᓂᖏᓐᓂᒃ “ᐃᓛᒃᑰᖓᓗᑎᒃ”. ᖁᓚᕐᓇᖏᓪᓚᖅ, ᒫᓐᓇᒫᖑᓚᐅᖅᑐᖅ ᓄᖑᔪᐃᑦᑐᓄᑦ ᖁᐊᖅᓵᓇᖅᑐᓕᕆᐊᕌᓗᒃ ᔮᐸᓃᓯᒃᑯᑦ ᓄᓇᖓᓂ ᒪᕐᕈᐃᓱᖅᑐᓂ ᓴᔪᑉᐱᓚᓚᐅᖅᑎᓪᓗᒍ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᒪᓕᔾᔪᐊᕌᓗᑦᑕᐅᓚᐅᖅᑎᓪᓗᒋᑦ ᓴᖅᑭᕈᑕᐅᓂᐊᖅᑐᖅ ᓄᖑᔪᐃᑦᑐᑦᓴᔭ ᐊᐱᖅᑯᑕᐅᓗᓂ ᓵᓐᖓᔭᐅᒋᐊᒃᑲᓐᓂᒻᒪᕆᓕᕐᓗᓂ, ᐃᓛᒃ ᑲᓇᑕᒥ ᑎᒍᒥᐊᖅᑎᐅᑎᓪᓗᒋᑦ ᓯᓚᕐᔪᐊᒥ ᐊᖏᓂᖅᐹᖑᑐᐃᓐᓇᕆᐊᓕᒻᒥᒃ ᐱᑕᖃᑐᐃᓐᓇᕆᐊᖃᕐᓂᖓ ᓄᖑᔪᐃᑦᑐᑦᓴᔭᒥᒃ. ᑕᑯᑦᓴᒻᒪᕆᐅᔪᖅ ᐊᖏᕈᑕᐅᓯᒪᓐᖏᓐᓂᖓ ᐅᖅᓱᐊᓗᓕᕆᓂᖅ, ᐃᓚᒋᔭᐅᓪᓗᓂ ᐃᑭᕐᒦᑦᑐᓂᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᓄᖑᔪᐃᑦᑐᑦᓴᔭᒥᒃ ᐅᔭᕋᓐᓂᐊᕐᓂᖅ, ᑐᔾᔭᖅᑕᐅᑐᐃᓐᓇᕆᐊᓕᒃ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒥ ᑲᑎᒪᔨᖏᓐᓄᑦ ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔭᖃᑎᖃᒻᒪᕆᖃᑦᑕᖅᓯᒪᔪᓄᑦ ᓄᓇᖃᖅᑳᖅᑐᓯᒪᔪᓂᒃ ᐃᓚᒋᔭᐅᓪᓚᑦᑖᖅᑐᓂᒃ ᐅᑭᐅᓂᒃ ᐊᕙᑎᐅᓚᐅᖅᑐᓂᒃ ᑲᒪᒋᐊᕈᑎᒃᓴᓂᒃ ᓄᓇᖃᖅᑳᖅᓯᒪᔪᑦ ᐃᓱᒫᓘᑎᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᑲᑐᔾᔨᖃᑎᒌᓐᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᐊᑐᕐᓂᓕᒻᒥᒃ ᐱᕙᓪᓕᐊᑎᑦᓯᓂᕐᒥᒃ.

ICC delegates United States.

© MARCEL MASON/ITK

No doubt, the recent nuclear crisis in Japan as a result of a double barrelled earthquake and tsunami catastrophe will bring the uranium question into even sharper focus, at least in Canada which holds some of the world’s potentially largest uranium deposits.

The apparent contradiction between petroleum development, including offshore areas and uranium mining, may be traced to the Arctic Council itself that worked very closely with the aboriginal permanent participants over the past 20 years to address aboriginal concerns and build effective partnerships.

The Arctic Council guidelines make important cultural and geographic recommendations that are critical to gaining Inuit support: “measures should be taken to recognize and accommodate cultural heritage, values, practices, rights and resource use of indigenous residents.”

For Greenland, which is a leader among four Inuit Arctic nations on oil development, the guidelines have provided enough comfort to have granted 20 exploration licences along its west coast.

“If Greenland stayed away from exploiting its natural resources then some other place on earth will do it says,” Premier Kleist. “But we are also doing it under the strongest precautions and with the best technology and practices.”

These are the very same kind of words and assurances used by top executives and politicians to allay concerns about nuclear power plants in Japan and deepwater drilling in the Gulf of Mexico.

ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒥ ᑲᑎᒪᔩᑦ ᐊᑐᐊᖅᓯᔾᔪᑎᖏᑦ ᐱᖕᒪᕆᐅᔪᓂᒃ ᐃᓕᖅᑯᓯᕐᒨᖓᔪᓂᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᓄᓇᓕᕆᓂᕐᒨᖓᔪᓂᒃ ᐊᑐᓕᖁᔨᔾᔪᑎᓕᐅᖃᑦᑕᖅᑐᑦ ᐱᑕᖃᕆᐊᓕᒻᒪᕆᓐᓂᒃ ᑎᒍᓯᕙᓪᓕᐊᔾᔪᑎᒃᓴᓂᒃ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᐃᑲᔪᖅᓱᖅᑕᐅᔾᔪᑎᒃᓴᖏᓐᓄᑦ: “ᖃᐅᔨᓴᖅᑕᐅᓂᖃᕆᐊᓕᒃ ᐃᓕᓴᕆᔭᐅᓯᒪᒍᑎᒃᓴᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐃᓂᖃᖅᑎᑕᐅᒍᑎᒃᓴᖏᓐᓂᒃ ᐃᓕᖅᑯᓯᒃᑯᑦ ᐱᖅᑯᓯᕆᔭᐅᔪᑦ, ᐱᖕᒪᕆᐅᔪᖁᑎᒋᔭᐅᔪᑦ, ᐊᑐᖅᑕᐅᖃᑦᑕᖅᑐᑦ, ᐱᔪᓐᓇᐅᑏᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐱᕝᕕᒃᓴᐅᔪᓂᒃ ᐊᑐᕋᑦᓴᓂᒃ ᓄᓇᖃᖅᑲᖅᓯᒪᔪᓄᑦ.” ᐊᑯᑭᑦᑐᓄᑦ,ᓯᕗᓕᖅᑎᐅᓂᖏᓐᓄᑦ ᑖᒃᑯᓇᓂ ᓯᑕᒪᓂ ᐃᓄᐃᑦ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒥᐅᖑᖃᑎᒌᓂ ᐅᖅᓱᐊᓗᓕᕆᓂᕐᒧᑦ, ᐊᑐᐊᖅᓯᔾᔪᑏᑦ ᐊᑲᕐᕆᔮᕐᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᑎᒍᓯᒍᑕᐅᓯᒪᕗᑦ ᑐᓂᓯᔪᓐᓇᖅᓯᒍᑕᐅᓪᓗᑎᒃ ᐊᕙᑎᓂᒃ ᕿᓂᕐᓂᕐᒧᑦ ᓚᐃᓴᓂᒃ ᐱᖓᓐᓈᑕ ᓯᓈᓂ. “ᐊᑯᑭᑦᑐᑦ ᑲᒪᒋᐊᓐᖏᑉᐸᑕ ᐲᔭᐃᓂᕐᒥᒃ ᓄᓇᒥᓐᓃᖔᖅᑐᓂᒃ ᑮᓇᐅᔭᓕᐅᕈᑎᒃᓴᓂᒃ ᑕᐃᒪᓕ ᐊᓯᖏᓐᓃᖔᖅᑐᓂᒃ ᓄᓇᕐᔪᐊᒥ ᑲᒪᒋᔭᐅᖔᓯᑐᐃᓐᓇᓂᐊᖅᑐᖅ,”ᓯᕗᓕᖅᑎ ᑲᓚᐃᔅᑦ.“ᑭᓯᐊᓂᑦᑕᐅᖅ ᑲᒪᒋᒻᒥᔭᕗᑦ ᓴᓐᖏᓂᖅᐹᓂᒃ ᐅᓗᕆᐊᓇᕋᔭᖅᑐᓂᒃ ᐅᔾᔨᕈᓱᒋᐊᓐᖓᕈᑎᑎᒍᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐱᐅᓂᖅᐹᓂᒃ ᐃᓱᕐᕆᐅᑎᓂᒃ ᐊᑐᖅᑕᐅᖃᑦᑕᖅᑐᓂᓪᓗ ᐊᑐᖅᓱᑕ ᑭᓯᐊᓂ.” ᑖᒃᑯᓴᐃᓐᓇᑦᓯᐊᑦ ᐅᖃᐅᓰᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᓇᓗᓇᐃᖅᓯᓚᑦᑖᕈᑕᐅᓪᓗᑎᒃ ᐊᑐᖅᑕᐅᓚᐅᖅᑐᑦ ᖁᑦᓯᓂᖅᐸᓄᑦ ᓯᕗᓕᖅᑎᓄᑦ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐊᐅᓚᑦᓯᔨᐅᔪᓄᑦ ᒐᕙᒪᓂ ᐃᑯᓪᓚᐅᒥᑎᑦᓯᒍᑕᐅᓇᓱᐊᖅᑐᑎᒃ ᐃᓱᒫᓘᑕᐅᔪᓂᒃ ᓄᖑᔪᐃᑦᑐᓂᒃ ᐆᒻᒪᖅᑯᑎᓕᐅᕈᒪᑎᓪᓗᒋᑦ ᐊᐅᓚᐅᑎᓂᒃ ᔮᐸᓃᓯᒃᑯᑦ ᓄᓇᖓᓂ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐃᑎᔪᒥ ᑕᕆᐅᒥ ᐃᑰᑕᕈᒪᑎᓪᓗᒋᑦ ᒪᒃᓯᑰᑉ ᐃᒪᖓᓂ.

CRUISE with the REAL SEALIFT PEOPLE! Full Crating Services:

Crate, Closed crate in plywood, Open Strapping Dangerous goods, Palletizing &

Stuffing of 20’ Steel Containers (sale or rental)

Booking of Space on Ship and All Risk Cargo Insurance

Book your Sealift for 2011 now!

Meeting and exceeding the special needs of our northern clients each Sealift season is what we do best. Owners Mélanie Normandin and Robert Pelletier welcome you to call again this year for all your Sealift requirements.

(Freight forwarding)

Wholesaler

le parts, (Grocery, furniture, stationary, vehic rials) sewing fabric and construction mate

Marshalling

(for your orders from any source)

Mélanie Normandin and Robert Pelletier SUPERIOR SEALIFT SERVICE AND A COMMITMENT TO CUSTOMER SATISFACTION IN THE NORTH SINCE 1984 Tel: Fax: Email:

(866) 353-3552 (888) 353-1251 info@arcticconsultants.ca

We invite you to visit our new website

www.arcticconsultants.ca May/June 2011

above & beyond

25

Arctic Adventures of Anna A Northwest Passage Cruise

© MONIKA WITKOWSKA

By Monika Witkowska

Why didn’t I just sail in the tropics, I’m often asked?

Not only because I’ve already been there. The main reason is that the expansive Arctic fascinates me much more than warmer seas. Simple.

Here [along the Northwest Passage] there are so many interesting, beautiful scenic places... and people... it would be a pity to just simply bypass them.

— Börje Ivarsson

May/June 2011

above & beyond

27

utwardly, to those who might not know him well, Börje Ivarsson is a calm person, projecting a somewhat taciturn nature. An insular and self-sufficient man not known for bravado, he spends much of his free non-work time at or near his home in Sweden, in quiet pursuits; hunting, fishing and hiking through the woods. He started sailing early in life at the age of seven, and from that moment on it became his biggest passion. In 1980, he purchased Anna (so named after his beloved grandmother). Anna is a compact, capable and sturdy 10.5 metre steel hulled, double masted craft, with the ideal bones for sailing in icy northern seas despite her 30 years. Over time Ivarsson adapted her to be a solo sailing craft able to tackle oceans everywhere.

© MONIKA WITKOWSKA (3)

O

Anna sailing off Ilulissat, Greenland.

Knowledgeable, serious sailors will attest that the fast-flowing straits running through Canada’s famed Northwest Passage rank high amongst the most challenging nautical routes in the world. It is surpassed only by a few, such as the famed Drake Passage in the Southern Hemisphere. So daunting can sailing these waters be, that in the over 100 plus years time span that has elapsed since Norway’s Roald Amundsen’s world-first, historic navigation through Canada’s Arctic Archipelago (1903-1906), the number of sailing yachts that have dared to match his feat still number less than 50 in total.

That said, modern seafaring knowledge, better navigational technology and equipment such as GPS and SAT links, faster, sturdier and more sophisticated sailing craft, aided to some measure by the major reductions of ice-pack due to accelerated climate change melt, now make it entirely possible for a select number of daring blue water enthusiasts to emulate Amundsen’s three-year feat in the short span of a single summer season. Provided of course those attempting to do so, press on through the Passage and don’t dally too much along the way.

On a personal level, Ivarsson has no interest in staking a place for his name in the record books, or aligning his achievement alongside hubris-coated “I did that” bragging rights some yachters lust after. His motivations to guide Anna through the difficult Passage are well defined and far more altruistic. Ivarsson prefers sailing in an unhurried manner, stopping often along the way to enjoy naturally pristine anchorages, or study those occasional landfalls he encounters in greater detail.

This cruise was not only an opportunity to add to his sailing adventures repertoire, or ship’s log, but also the chance to truly experience the Arctic seas and landscape — to savour all the Arctic had to offer: the wildlife, the people and of course, the personal satisfaction that would be derived from successfully navigating the ice bestrewn dark sea that would lay before his bow days on end. Ivarsson is above all else, a conscientious and pragmatic yachtsman.

Out at sea the most important thing to a sailor is his boat’s reliability. Instead of owning a fancy DVD player I would prefer buying a better compass.

28

arcticjournal.ca

May/June 2011

After rescuing Anna from the hard in Labrador to launch her in the North Atlantic, Ivarsson would set sail for the cold (but somewhat familiar) waters off the southwestern coast of Greenland. As if by some sort of pre-ordained coincidence, he and Anna would not be navigating the seas off the Labrador coast alone as he had originally planned. Ivarsson fondly recounts how he acquired his amenable, but entirely unexpected, crewmember just in time to leave on the first leg of his passage North.

After dropping Amos off in northern Labrador (to see his sick father), Ivarsson embarked on his solo northward progression to Greenland to pick up his next crewmember (this one planned), fellow Swede, Nils Jönsson. Together, after several days dodging giant bergs ‘running the alley’ in Davis Strait off Greenland, they made Lancaster Sound, the best known, most used eastern entranceway to Canada’s Arctic archipelagic maze and the Northwest Passage.

One of the great advantages of not setting an ambitious sailing schedule, or bold objective in terms of nautical miles per day, is that a loose relaxed itinerary affords travellers the opportunity to really appreciate their surroundings, to stop and relax at enticingly idyllic Arctic anchorages, or put in to shore on a whim, at a small Inuit community to meet the locals and develop an understanding of their culture.

Ivarsson experienced all of that along the way, over the period of two months sailing, including friendly people, beautiful scenery, fair seas, nights sailing under the stars and spectacular aurora and more...but when asked what impressed him the most, after some hesitation (indicating deep thought) he begins by first naming those... and then there’s another longer pause...

No, no wait, I think our meeting with the polar bear!

We stood at anchor just off Somerset Island, and Nils and I had just returned from a short little foray ashore. Suddenly, we saw him, a huge white shape, there on the shoreline.

We were separated by no more than 30 metres! The bear stood exactly in the spot where we’d had our dinghy pulled up just minutes before. As befits the King of the Arctic, he was a beautiful and dignified animal. And from the perspective of our yacht he seemed so cute and innocent.

© COURTESY OF BÖRJE IVARSSON (2)

For the two weeks we sailed along the coast of Labrador, Anna and I had an Inuk companion onboard. His name was Amos. We met by chance in Hopedale, where I was waiting for engine parts for Anna. In the meantime I had been keeping myself busy stapling the sails. Amos, who accidentally showed up one day port side approached asking if I needed any help. It was the unexpected start to our good friendship and the surprising discovery too — that I found him to be really great crew, even though it was the very first sailing cruise in Amos’s life. He fared really well, and it was very hard to tear him away from the helm.

Anna’s Captain Although he generally boasts a quiet and reserved demeanour, in truth, Ivarsson enjoys having company.

He’s always welcoming and enthusiastic to have guests on board the cozy and inviting kerosene lit Anna for a cup of tea below decks. And though Ivarsson is a very experienced and capable solo sailor, to have another person on board to help deal with all the unpredictable Arctic conditions a small boat might experience on such a long cruise is not only helpful, but also adds to overall safety.

Sailing in Arctic waters solo, or even with a crew mate, means very little down time. When Ivarsson is not on the deck or at the helm, changing the sails, or repairing something, he is busy analyzing weather or ice maps, setting the navigation strategy or dealing with such mundane but necessary tasks as cooking or cleaning the boat.

Often there is no opportunity to sleep. “I do have the wind-pilot, but I cannot use it in all situations and even when it is working, it is still necessary to observe the seas around me.”

Asked if he’s a superstitious sailor, he ponders the question for a moment and then replies: “Generally not, but according to sailing traditions, I never whistle on the boat because it will download the wrath of the sea.”

May/June 2011

above & beyond

29

Ivarsson’s passage however, would not always be so entertaining or joyful. Prepared as he was for his Northwest Passage cruise, Captain and crew had to forego a visit to Resolute, (a goal of Ivarsson’s) due to heavy ice pack. Still, he was able to visit Gjoa Haven, Cambridge Bay, Tuktoyaktuk, and finally then make it all the way North to Inuvik.

It was then when I got stuck in the ice fields. Of course I was prepared that this route would have a lot of ice, it is normal here. Along the coast of Greenland, we were met by huge icebergs. The Canadian straits are illusively dangerous for a boat — with many growlers — large fast flowing hard-tospot chunks of fragmented icebergs or pack ice that often lurk just below the surface.

We also encountered expansive ice fields that we were unable to cross. Not a surprise for us. We did have Internet that gave very good maps prepared by the Canadian Ice Service so we knew when and where to expect difficult conditions. That’s the way it is in the Northwest Passage. There is really no option — sooner or later, every yacht will encounter this.

The worst situation for Ivarsson’s Anna occurred near Bellot Strait, where the ice pack was most dense, as well at their approach to Cambridge Bay, where he and Anna were nearly trapped in the thick of a massive ice field. To make matters worse, the timing of his arrival at Cambridge Bay was inopportune in that it was in the dark of night — and any visibility he might of had reduced even further by very thick fog.

I found myself trapped in an extremely stressful maze. Each tiny lead of open water appeared as a dead end with no way out. Finally, after a few hours, we managed somehow to find a lead that took us out of the ice-pack.

Ice in the Northwest Passage can be difficult to navigate.

© MONIKA WITKOWSKA (5)

Dangers aside, Ivarsson also remembers the good times and the rewarding social contact he had throughout his trip.

30

arcticjournal.ca

I encountered friendly Canadians in the Arctic communities everywhere I made landfall.

Most often they would be meeting me for the very first and likely last time in their lives.

Still, they were always warm and welcoming, completely selfless, inviting me into their homes to take a shower, use their washing machines, or their Internet. For sailors arriving to unknown places after many days at sea, this was all very helpful. There were many good memories of meeting wonderful people all along the way, but of course there were those whom I remember especially.

There was a really wonderful young couple who invited me into their home for dinner in Cambridge Bay. ( I‘m so sorry that I lost the card with their names and address).

Perhaps they will read this and contact me.

He is a local Inuk, she a young woman from the south of Canada. Their happy relationship and gentle existence was very interesting to me. On one hand, they had a very modern lifestyle, a typical existence. On the other — their life was very much guided (with great pride) by strong Inuit traditions and practices. For my farewell they generously gave me a piece of musk ox meat... which frankly speaking I did not know how to cook...

May/June 2011

Anna at anchor at Gjoa Haven, Nunavut.

Anchored off Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories.

Ivarsson laughs while noting that country food novice chef though he was, the final result was actually pretty good. He continues: I was very fortunate to meet the nice people I met in Inuvik. After taking my yacht out of the water there, I could no longer live on Anna, so I moved to a residential barge that moored in the harbour. It was easy to adapt to living there and while there I gained many good friends.

And when it comes to the subject of wintering Anna in Inuvik, I want to give recognition to Willie Moore, the owner of a local shipyard. He was an extremely helpful man, even though he’d never met me before. He not only organized everything, but in the end he drove me all the way to Whitehorse in his car.

But of course, the sailing season in the Arctic is all too short, especially for 35-foot sailboats. In October, after five months away from home, Ivarsson’s 2010 Canadian Arctic sailing adventure came to its necessary end. Leaving Anna once more on the hard, this time in Inuvik, he returned to his native Sweden.

Now, during the winter and spring months of this year he will run the family business, cultivating flowers in a greenhouse while saving the funds necessary for the continuation of his next leg in a very personal Arctic adventure.

There is no hiding the fact that Ivarsson is anxious to return for more Arctic seas adventure. At the beginning of summer 2011, he plans to arrive again in Inuvik to launch Anna. And as soon as the ice situation permits, he, Anna and crew member (and author of this account) Monika Witkowska, will once again embark on a cruise through amazing Arctic seas.

Unlike Amundsen’s return journey of over a 100 years ago, however, they will head west from Inuvik, to explore small Inuit villages along the Alaskan coast and then venture across the confluence of several Arctic Seas on track for famed Wrangel Island, then on to the small Arctic port of Pevek, on Russia’s Arctic Coast and then back to Alaska. above&beyond would like to thank Börje Ivarsson for the story and also his friend, fellow adventurer and occasional Anna crew, (Cambridge Bay to Tuktoyaktuk leg) Monika Witkowska of Poland, for interviewing Börje, writing this account and providing the English translation. To find out more about what adventures are planned in 2011, please visit www.monikawitkowska.pl/arcticocean/eng

May/June 2011

above & beyond

31

© HEIKO WITTENBORN © STEPHEN GORMAN

© STEPHEN GORMAN

Mattiusi Iyaituk, a renowned carver from Ivujivik, applies the finishing touches to an ice sculpture that won him first prize in a contest for which the Snow Festival is famous.

32

arcticjournal.ca

May/June 2011

© STEPHEN GORMAN

Annie Qalingo, from Puvirnituq, hurries to take the ice out of the fishing hole that she just chopped with an ice chisel in time to finish second with 11 minutes and 44 seconds on the clock.

© PIERRE DUNNIGAN

Tamusi Tukalak, a local artist from Puvirnituq, won second prize in the 2011 Snow Festival’s ice sculpture contest with this beautiful depiction of a woman in an amautik, also portrayed on the right above and on page 33.

© HEIKO WITTENBORN

arctic exotica Every two years, Inuit from all around Nunavik and even Nunavut gather in Puvirnituq on the east shore of Hudson Bay for the now customary Snow Festival to celebrate their time-honoured way of life in a week of fun-filled activities, from snow and ice sculpture contests to igloo building competitions, dog sled and foot races, and other traditional games, topped off by evenings packed with musical performances of all sorts. Don’t miss the next edition in 2013! Everyone is welcome!

Opposite, top right: Zebedee Nungak (second from the left), Director of Avataq Cultural Institute’s department of Inuktitut Language, which was the main theme of the 2011 edition of the Snow Festival, proudly poses with the winners of the single igloo building competition: 1st: Peter “Boy” Ittukallak (right), from Puvirnituq, who built his igloo in an amazing time of 25 minutes and 32 seconds!

2nd: Charlie Nowkawalk (left), from Inukjuak 3rd: Paulusie Novalinga (second from the right), from Puvirnituq Both Peter “Boy” Ittukallak and Paulusie Novalinga were founders of the Snow Festival.

Fireworks light up the sky above Puvirnituq to commemorate the end of another booming Snow Festival.

May/June 2011

above & beyond

33

Š DAVID F PELLY

UKKUSIKSALIK AN HBC POST WITH AN INUK AS MANAGER, 1933-45

by David F. Pelly

The first installment in this story of the HBC post at the head of Ukkusiksalik (Wager Bay), from its founding in 1925 until the permanent departure of the Qallunaat managers in 1933, appeared in the last issue of above & beyond. As that era ended, Iqungajuq (aka Wager Dick), together with his family, took over management of the post at Tasiujaq, the lake at the head of Wager Bay. By the early 1930s, that family consisted of Iqungajuq, his two wives Niaqukituq and Toota, and all the children: two girls Avaqsaq and Tuinnaq, and three boys Napayok, Tatty and Tattuinee. We pick up the story from there.

May/June 2011

above & beyond

35

n Sunday, November 6, 1927, an entry in the post journal records the arrival of a child. In itself, that seems insignificant enough. But, as the history of Ukkusiksalik unfolds, that child became a central player.

O

Robert Tatty’s father was W.E. “Buster” Brown, post manager for the outfit year 1926-27. When the last of the Qallunaat managers left in the summer of 1933, Tatty was not quite yet six years old. Nevertheless, he recalled this event quite clearly, even though he was a young boy, “not old enough to work yet. I remember when the manager left.

He asked my father to take over the post. I remember the little open putt-putt boat the manager came to get us in from our camp down the lake. We moved into the small HBC house [actually the warehouse originally] then.”

His older sister, Tuinnaq Kanayuk Bruce, also recalls the day. “Iqungajuq didn’t want to take over because he didn’t know what to do. When my family and I were at

© HBCA N9300 BY HILTON E. GEORGE 1976/128/28

-10 Clear with decrease in wind. The wind blew so strong last night that driven snow was forced thru’ the window frames of both bedrooms and kitchen. Also a pile of lumber flooring was scattered about like matches. During the early hours of the morning native Dick’s wife Tootah gave birth to a boy. The boy was called Tatty. [HBCA B492 a/3]

Iqungajuq, aka Wager Dick or Native Dick, manager of the HBC Post at Ukkusiksalik for 1933-45, and the adoptive father of Tuinnaq Kanayuk Bruce and Robert Tatty.

© DAVID F PELLY

Tuinnaq Kanayuk Bruce, during her 1996 visit to the old Post where she grew up.

HIS OLDER SISTER, TUINNAQ KANAYUK BRUCE, ALSO RECALLS THE DAY. “IQUNGAJUQ DIDN’T WANT TO TAKE OVER BECAUSE HE DIDN’T KNOW WHAT TO DO. WHEN MY FAMILY AND I WERE AT QAMANAALUK FISHING, SOME PEOPLE CAME TO US AND ASKED IQUNGAJUQ IF HE COULD TAKE OVER. HE REALLY DIDN’T WANT TO TAKE OVER, BUT THEY TOLD HIM AS LONG AS YOU WRITE DOWN EVERYTHING THAT IS SOLD — THEY PERSUADED HIM.”

36

arcticjournal.ca

May/June 2011

© COURTESY OF THE TATTY FAMILY

Robert Tatty.

Qamanaaluk fishing, some people came to us and asked Iqungajuq if he could take over. He really didn’t want to take over, but they told him as long as you write down everything that is sold — they persuaded him.” Iqungajuq was familiar with the post operation, having been there since its construction in 1925, but to be the manager was an unexpected challenge. The more so because, with the withdrawal of Qallunaat managers, the HBC also ceased the annual visit of a supply ship, and left it to Iqungajuq to fetch his own trade goods from Chesterfield Inlet or Repulse Bay, the two closest HBC trading posts.

“When that [supply] ship stopped going to Ukkusiksalik,” continued Mrs. Bruce, “Iqungajuq used to go to Chesterfield by Peterhead boat to get supplies for the store.

One time he went to Repulse Bay by dog team to get more supplies for the store. I don’t remember how many times he went to Repulse Bay or Chesterfield Inlet to get more supplies.” On these occasions, it was left to Tuinnaq to operate the trading post, to conduct the trade, even though she was no more than a young teenager.

“We used small pieces of wood [HBC tokens], used them as money. I would write down in Inuktitut things that were sold or traded. I really didn’t like trading because some people weren’t happy. Some people would bundle up the fox fur and I wouldn’t realize that they had rips or holes in them if they were all bundled up like that. The main things they wanted to get were bullets, flour, tobacco, lard, tea, things like that.

They weren’t expensive at that time. I learned to write and read by myself. When I was a little girl, I had memorized a song, a chorus, and someone gave me words to that song and I started reading it [in syllabics] by what I had memorized. I learned to read by myself.”

Iqungajuq served in this position as ad hoc manager of the Tasiujaq post most ably, with the help of his whole family. All his inventory and trading records were carefully written in Inuktitut syllabics. The Company provided him with trading supplies and (later) some coal to heat his house in return for his service. He managed to turn a profit with very little support from his remote supervisors, who were duly impressed. A small commission on his trading profits was left to accumulate for him at the Repulse Bay post. Once or twice a year he would make the trek out to this closest point of civilization to deliver the fox skins he had collected from other hunters, and to restock his outfit.

Tatty, a young boy quickly learning to be a man, frequently made these trips with his father. “When my father and I went out — hunting, or trapping, or to Repulse — we left my two older sisters in charge of the trading.”

Hunters came to the post in summer, by foot from inland or by sail from down the inlet, to get bullets, tea and tobacco on credit, which they would pay back in skins during the coming winter. All winter long, occasional hunters came by dog team to turn in their fox skins. “It was a happy time when lots of people came,” recalled Tatty.

In the early 1940s, HBC trader Bill Robinson made a spring trip from the Repulse Bay post to visit Iqungajuq at Tasiujaq. His observations offer another perspective on life at the post with an Inuit manager. “The warehouse consisted of one huge room with a back porch. It resembled an immense igloo with a snow tunnel entrance. At one end of the room two double beds were placed end to end. Dick and his family seated themselves on one bed while his brother and family sat on the other. Individual caribou-hide sleeping bags were placed on the bare mattresses, marking each member’s allotted spot on this giant substitute snow bench. An overturned packing box and a wooden bench along one wall completed the furnishings in the room. A Primus stove and seal-oil lamp shared the surface of the packing box. Other than the seal-oil lamp, no heating arrangements existed. This was Dick’s summer quarters.

During the cold days of winter the families lived in a couple of cozy igloos.”

Since the departure of a Company manager in 1933, Iqungajuq had turned the Ukkusiksalik post at Tasiujaq into a small but consistently profitable operation. He was a man who could find his way simultaneously in two different worlds. He took his responsibilities to the Company seriously, kept his records straight, and never provided a problem for his distant supervisors in Repulse Bay. Yet he maintained the values and traditions of his own heritage within his family structure. He was admired by all who came to know him.

May/June 2011

above & beyond

37

In his annual report dated May 31, 1944, at the close of Outfit 274, Repulse Bay manager D. Drysdale summed up the state of the Wager Bay trade and the valuable contribution made by Iqungajuq.

Dick will not be here with his results till August or early part of September. Last year it was September 22nd before he got here, so he is liable to be just as late this year, since his boat engine is in very bad repair, and he has to sail most of the time.

Dick brought me an Inventory of his stock taken sometime in February. He thought he would get another fifty foxes at the most from Back River natives in the later part of April or early in May. I sincerely hope he managed to get them, but I am doubtful as fur seems to be pretty scarce this year. I always stress the point about debts, and no doubt he has often been told about this. He is a pretty careful old fellow and I am sure doing best he can. And no doubt when fur is scarce he has a hard time saying NO to anyone who comes to ask for a few pounds of tobacco or tea.

Last fall he had a very narrow escape somewhere in Wager Bay, got caught in a very bad gale, which wrecked his old motor boat, and he had a very hard time keeping the Peterhead off the rocks. But he says the Peterhead is still in sailing condition — but says the bottom is getting pretty soft and won’t stand a rough sea.

© DAVID F PELLY

These proved to be prophetic words.

In the meanwhile, it was time for Tatty, nearly 18, to have a wife. Accordingly, in March of 1945, on one of their re-supply trips by dog team to Repulse Bay, Iqungajuq and Tatty picked up his betrothed from Anaruaq’s camp. “I was pretty young,” recalled an elderly Annie Tatty, who was 15, just a month shy of her 16th birthday, at that time.

“It would be pretty young for Qallunaat, but Inuit used to get married young. Inuit

HUNTERS CAME TO THE POST IN SUMMER, BY FOOT FROM INLAND OR BY SAIL FROM DOWN THE INLET, TO GET BULLETS, TEA AND TOBACCO ON CREDIT, WHICH THEY WOULD PAY BACK IN SKINS DURING THE COMING WINTER. ALL WINTER LONG, OCCASIONAL HUNTERS CAME BY DOG TEAM TO TURN IN THEIR FOX SKINS. “IT WAS A HAPPY TIME WHEN LOTS OF PEOPLE CAME,” RECALLED TATTY.

38

arcticjournal.ca

May/June 2011

© COURTESY OF THE TATTY FAMILY

Robert Tatty at the old HBC Post in 1978-79.

used to make plans who is who that will marry.” Annie’s adopted parents (her mother died in childbirth), Joseph Kakak and Paula Angnaujuq, had not shared their plan with her. She grew up in Ukkusiksalik, near Piqsimaniq, and had visited the post at Tasiujaq on a number of occasions. She remembered seeing Iqungajuq, and Tuinnaq, and even Tatty. But “I did not know he was my future husband.” So in the spring of 1945, as best she could, she settled into her new life with Tatty’s family at Tasiujaq. “I was uncomfortable, because I never have been without my parents before and I was homesick for quite a while. They treated me very well, but I did not want to leave my father and mother.”

That summer, the whole family set out by boat from Tasiujaq for Repulse Bay, to get the year’s supplies. The HBC had promised that a new boat for Iqungajuq would come in on the annual supply ship from down south — reason enough, it seems, for the whole family to make the trip. The ship was late. They waited patiently in Repulse Bay. That trading post too was nearly out of supplies. Finally the ship arrived, with supplies but no new boat for Iqungajuq. The family had no choice but to head home in the old, rotting boat. As Annie Tatty recalls it, “our boat was not hard wood. The side of the boat was peeling off and it started cracking. Also we did not have a motor.” Travel conditions were less than ideal. It was already September; sea ice was forming.

“We tried to go back to Wager in the old boat, loaded with our supplies, but it was already freezing and the ice severely damaged the boat,” recalled Robert Tatty 40 years later. “We tried to axe a way through the ice. But eventually it was frozen in and we had to abandon it.” They were about half way down Roes Welcome Sound toward the inlet, at a place Inuit call Umiijarvik.

His older sister, Tuinnaq Kanayuk Bruce was also there. “The ice was scraping on the sides of the boat. My parents got scared so we landed on shore. Our boat wasn’t

© COURTESY OF THE TATTY FAMILY

Robert Tatty in his 70s during a dog-sled race in Rankin Inlet.

May/June 2011

above & beyond

39

wrecked. We came to the beach before it really got wrecked. We got our supplies on land. We had to put our tents in that area where we beached and we spent the winter there. It was already icing up. The ice was getting thick. It was really cold. When we got to shore Iqungajuq built a house with ice blocks. It was really nice to live in that ice house for a while because we could see through [the walls]. But when winter came, we built an iglu and moved into it.” The ice house became the trading post, with walls the height of a man, the boat’s sail spread over as a roof, and the supplies neatly piled inside. That incident changed the course of history. The family had planned to stay at Tasiujaq, thinking that Tatty would take over as manager of the store. But Iqungajuq simply resumed his trading from a new location.

“We had more business there than before at Tasiujaq,” recalled Tatty. “There was a lot of fox that year. But that was the end of the HBC in Ukkusiksalik. During that winter I went back to the old post to do an inventory and to pick up the remaining supplies.”

“We had left our dog team in Ukkusiksalik,” recalled his sister, Mrs. Bruce. “Agulaq was going to look after them. But he was too old to look after them properly. Siudluq, when we were going to Repulse Bay, he left for Chesterfield Inlet at the same time. If Siudluq had looked after the dogs instead of Agulaq, they would have survived. Tatty went back to Tasiujaq [from Umiijarvik] that winter. He was quite young then. He was riding with Angutinguaq on one dog team. He was planning to get [our] dogs and come back [to Umiijarvik] and get the family and then go back to Tasiujaq. But the dogs weren’t being fed, so they starved. We didn’t have a dog team any more because they starved. I think they brought a few things but not that many, because it was winter and it was quite far from where we were camping [at Umiijarvik].” For lack of a dog team, the family never returned to Tasiujaq. And so the colourful history of the HBC post at Tasiujaq, a uniquely remote post with an Inuk as manager for 12 years, came to an end.

Fortunately, the stories of the lives which unfolded in those buildings are preserved.

Epilogue Robert Tatty’s connection to the old post at Tasiujaq endured for the rest of his life. For two years in the late 1970s, he returned there to live, with his family, to ensure the connection endured. His story, with that of his wife of 65 years, Annie Tatty, will be featured in an upcoming edition of above & beyond.

Long-time contributor David Pelly (www.davidpelly.com) wishes to acknowledge the assistance of the family of the late Robert Tatty (1927-2009) in the preparation and illustration of this article.

© DAVID F PELLY

The buildings of the old HBC Post as they appeared in 1996.

FOR LACK OF A DOG TEAM, THE FAMILY NEVER RETURNED TO TASIUJAQ. AND SO THE COLOURFUL HISTORY OF THE HBC POST AT TASIUJAQ, A UNIQUELY REMOTE POST WITH AN INUK AS MANAGER FOR 12 YEARS, CAME TO AN END. FORTUNATELY, THE STORIES OF THE LIVES WHICH UNFOLDED IN THOSE BUILDINGS ARE PRESERVED.

40

arcticjournal.ca

May/June 2011

D E D I C A T E D

T O

your SEALIFT NEEDS

in Nunavut

We serve you as a partner. We are proud of your success! wvJ3SA5 WoEctŒ4v5b. sWAh4SA5 vJy5yx3ymi5y8i4¡ Partnership Built on Common Sense

vg0pc†Q8i6 nˆ/sic6g6 grc5tx3i4f5

1121, Mivvik Street, P.O. Box 697, Iqaluit, Nunavut X0A 0H0 | Tel: (867) 979-3799 | Fax:(867) 979-2535

— TOLL FREE 1(866) SEA-LIFT — www.arcticsealift.com —

Nunavik... Let Us Take You There

1 (800) 361-2965 Charters 1 (800) 661-5850

547 rue Meloche, Dorval, QuĂŠbec H9P 2W2

42

arcticjournal.ca

ŠHeiko Wittenborn

Regularly scheduled flights linking the communities of Arctic Quebec and Montreal (514) 636-9445

May/June 2011

Fax: (514) 636-8916

© ALEX HALL/CANOE ARCTIC INC.

T R AV E L

Back to the Barrens Dreamlike country

Above: A small esker on the headwaters of the Thelon River.

s I settle into the right-hand front seat of the de Havilland Piston Beaver, Doug climbs in beside me and takes the controls of the aircraft. I’m on my way back to the Barren Lands. It’s the same every summer.

After nine months of planning, hoping and dreaming, the big day finally arrives.

Soon, the Beaver is racing across Four Mile Lake and rising over the black spruce and jack

A

Canada’s Leading Retailer of Inuit Arts & Crafts

pine forest. We turn into the northeast and leave the town of Fort Smith — the last bastion of civilization — behind. Five hundred kilometres to go!

We have two Royalex canoes nested together and strapped to the pontoon struts on Doug’s side of the airplane. Seated behind us are two of my clients in front of a pile of packs. Two more float planes — a Turbo Otter

“Moving Forward”

by Temela Aqpik, Kimmirut, Nunavut

northern images A Division of Arctic Co-operatives Ltd.

Yellowknife 867-873-5944

Inuvik 867-777-2786

Churchill 204-675-2681

www.northernimages.ca May/June 2011

above & beyond

43

T R AV E L

Taking a break, Thelon Wildlife Sanctuary with a large esker in the background.

and a Cessna 185 — with the rest of my clients aboard will follow us shortly.

The last road disappears under the Beaver as we head out over the big muddy waters of the Slave River, a river hard to love.The white pelican rookery on some small rocky islands is plainly visible below. Beyond the river, 30 kilometres of thickly forested country slide by under the

rattling roar of the big Pratt and Whitney engine before we reach the Canadian Shield.

Now, small lakes fill every depression among the rough granite hills that roll on and on as far as the Arctic Coast in the north and Hudson Bay in the east. With perfect flying weather, the gates are wide open to the continent’s last great wilderness.

44

May/June 2011

arcticjournal.ca

Although I have made this flight well over one hundred times before, my first trip of the summer is always a time of excitement. Now, my anticipation heightens as I watch the last sign of human occupation — lonely trapper’s cabin — slip away under the aircraft. Ahead, there is nothing but an uninhabited paradise of rock, sand and water.Welcome to God’s country.

T R AV E L Top: A small river draining into the Taltson River near the edge of the forest.

Bottom: Our Beaver in the foreground unloading on an esker beach, upper Thelon River.

© ALEX HALL/CANOE ARCTIC INC. (3)

We continue past the junction of the Tazin and Taltson rivers and over the big burn of 1979. Below us are scrubby young trees of aspen, jack pine, spruce and white birch — appealing country to moose and they have prospered here since the fire. As we fly on, we watch for the big bodies of water to appear.

Hill Island Lake creeps by to the south, then Thekulthili to the west. The forest is starting to open up into lichen woodland and the last of the aspen are petering out.

We go over huge areas of recently burnt country, including a few places all brown and black where fires raged during the past few summers. We pass east of Sparks Lake, then over Halliday and west of Doran where we can see Porter Lake shining on the skyline up ahead. It’s a typical June day, not a cloud in the sky, the horizons are crisp, and below, the lakes are sparkling under the fierce northern stare of an early summer sun. We’re under an “Arctic high” that probably stretches all the way to the polar sea.

As we close in on the tree line, we cross the Taltson River again where we see green, old growth forest that is hundreds of years old.

The big white spruce trees are thinning out and numerous caribou trails are carved into

May/June 2011

above & beyond

45

T R AV E L Hiking along the largest esker in the Barren Lands, upper Thelon River country.

© CHERYL O'NEILL

the lichen below. Jack pine have vanished and most of the white birch have wizened to tall shrubs. We’re in “my country” now, a land of eskers, mature open forests and big sand beaches in places along the lakes.

The hilltops begin shedding their trees, but before we reach the tree line, we fly over more brown and grey areas ravaged by recent fires. One of these fires has scorched the trees and lichen as far as trees grow.

The forest ends abruptly, but spruce and tamarack go on in some numbers for another 30 kilometres where they eke out a living in low-lying terrain and around the edges of lakes. Beyond this narrow transition zone, a vast green kingdom of treeless hills and plains spattered with blue lakes stretches out before us. We are entering the Barren Lands.

Doug eases the Beaver closer to the ground.

We skim low over small lakes with rafts of moulting Canada geese, colonies of Arctic terns and a few herring gulls. The tundra races by and the hilltops reach up at us. Although the treeless land is fully exposed where nothing, it seems, can possibly hide from our eyes, the only mammal we see is a solitary bull muskox. With the hot sun glaring down at us, we have the windows of the Beaver wide open, and the machine gun firing of the big radial engine roars in our ears.

We fly on over giant eskers — sinuous ribbons of sand ridges and dunes that run great distances across the tundra. There are treed oases of spruce and tamarack scattered along these eskers, some many kilometres in length, and nestled in depressions in the white sand are ponds and kettle lakes of incredible emerald-green and sapphire-blue.

We’re getting close now. Soon we will launch our canoes on the swift clear waters of the greatest river on the tundra. Her big, ice-choked headwater lakes pass under and to the west of us, and more eskers loom on the horizon ahead.

Finally, I catch sight of her in the distance — a blue streak on a green and tan landscape.

The Thelon River! She speaks to me of freedom and of sun-drenched days filled with adventure as we paddle north through a pristine Garden of Eden — on down the river through the Barrens and into my dreams.

The Beaver eats up the remaining tundra, banks over the river and glides in for a landing.

Home again! I’m home again for the summer.

Alex Hall Alex Hall has operated Canoe Arctic Inc. out of Fort Smith, NWT since 1975. He is author of Discovering Eden: a Lifetime of Paddling Arctic Rivers, Key Porter Books, Toronto, 2003.

46

arcticjournal.ca

May/June 2011

May/June 2011

above & beyond

47

48

arcticjournal.ca

May/June 2011

© DARELENE BURDEN

A R T S , C U LT U R E & E D U C AT I O N

New polar mosque Canada’s Arctic Muslims establish roots

By Victoria Gaitskell and Edward Atkinson orthern Canada’s growing Muslim communities recently completed an ambitious construction project in order to build the first mosque (masjid) above the Arctic Circle. The plan entailed the purchase and transport of a 473-square-metre structure (delivered in two sections and prefabricated in Winnipeg, Manitoba) across western Canada and the North by tractor-trailer truck and barge.

N

Last September, the new pre-fabricated structure began its long journey; first hauled 2,400 kilometres by road (Winnipeg to Hay River) and then floated another 1,800 kilometres by river barge all the way down the Mackenzie River to Inuvik, in the Northwest Territories, accomplishing what is believed to be the world’s longest-ever move of any building structure. It wasn’t always easy, and occasionally problems were encountered such May/June 2011

as bridges too narrow for the load and highway restrictions on the movement of oversized loads; even weather became a factor at times. Still, the two-piece structure did arrive safely in Hay River, fortunately just in time to make the last barge of the 2010 shipping season.

Funds for what is now named the Midnight Sun Mosque, came from the Zubaidah Tallab Foundation, representing the Muslim above & beyond

49

A R T S , C U LT U R E & E D U C AT I O N Top: (L-R)Amar Alawad, Khalid Alkhateb and Amier Suliman inside Inuvik’s new place of worship.

Bottom: The local Muslim community’s happiness is evident at the Inuvik waterfront after the transfer of their new building from barge to shore.

© NILUFER RAHMAN

© AMIER SULIMAN

community of Thompson, in Manitoba’s far North. Inuvik community member, Amier Suliman, says that, owing to the high cost of northern labour and material, the initial bids from contractors amounted to close to a half million dollars. When Zubaidah Tallab Foundation’s Dr. Hussain Guisti calculated the costs associated with purchasing a prefabricated structure from a Winnipeg manufacturer instead, he found it would, in total, still be cheaper, even after adding all long-distance shipping charges.

Shortly after the structure’s arrival at Inuvik’s port on October 22, local engineer and project manager, Ahmad Alkhalaf, oversaw its permanent installation on a double-sized lot, which the local Muslim community had pre-purchased for $90,000. A 30-foot minaret tower, constructed entirely in Inuvik, was attached to its right front corner. Fateh Allah, a Toronto carpenter, volunteered to stay on in Inuvik for another two months to help finish the building.

For many reasons, including the uniqueness of the entire project and its obvious allure as a proud new symbol in support of the Canadian multiculturalism concept, the Inuvik Muslim community mosque project attracted considerable attention from international media, along with endless comparisons to the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation’s long-running television show, Little Mosque on the Prairie.

50

arcticjournal.ca

May/June 2011

A R T S , C U LT U R E & E D U C AT I O N Suliman is of Sudanese extraction and moved to the Arctic seeking employment.

Now, 14 years later, he has married there and runs his own security company. He says before the mosque’s arrival, Inuvik Muslims worshipped communally for the previous 10 years in a 50-year-old rented trailer, measuring 9 by 14 feet and holding 25 occupants at best.

Their new mosque is spacious by comparison, consisting of a main prayer hall for men and another for women that doubles as a community centre, a library donated by a list of sponsoring organizations, a full kitchen, and small dining area.

On November 10, Inuvik Muslims held an inaugural all-day open house at their new mosque, followed by a dinner at the local arena to which they invited the entire town.

“It’s a small place where people know each other and see each other a lot, and the Muslim cab drivers especially get to know everybody because of their job. Lebanese and Palestinian family members of one of the town’s restaurateurs brought supplies from Edmonton and arranged a Middle Eastern dinner that 500 or 600 people attended,” recalls Nilufer Rahman.

“The day was filled with a lot of emotion. It was refreshing to see so many grown men cry,” she later wrote. One visitor travelled to the opening from as far away as Dubai, bringing with him a luxurious carpet for the mosque.

Muslims traditionally pray five times a day, including before sunrise (iftar) and after sunset (maghrib). But the prayer schedules of Arctic Muslims involve different lighting conditions, since 24 hours of sunlight accompany Arctic summers and only a sliver of sun appears briefly around noon in Arctic winters.

Because their community is linguistically and culturally diverse, they hold services in both Arabic and English. In total, they have some 80 members with origins in such diverse places as Syria, Lebanon, Egypt, Palestine, Somalia, Croatia, Pakistan, and Burma. Their future plans include summer religion and Arabic classes for the approximately 14 children of member families.

Nilufer and her sister, Saira Rahman, are Winnipeg filmmakers and the hijab-wearing daughters of Bangladeshi parents. After Dr. Guisti asked the sisters to produce a documentary film about Inuvik’s Midnight Sun Mosque, the two young women travelled twice to the community to film critical episodes and people connected to the building over a five-week period.

AVERY COOPER FINANCIAL CORP

Come check out the newest Inuit Art Gallery!

Located at Tumiit Plaza, Carvings Nunavut has a spacious and elegant atmosphere.

Open Monday-Saturday from 10AM-6PM, evenings and weekends by appointment by calling 867-222-1949

Building 626, Tumiit Plaza, Iqaluit, Nunavut carvingsnunavut@gmail.com

www.nunavutcarvings.com May/June 2011

above & beyond

51

A R T S , C U LT U R E & E D U C AT I O N “In Inuvik we’re very much like a microcosm of Canada, very diverse and multicultural,” says Inuvik’s Newfoundland-born mayor, Denny Rodgers. “We’re an Aboriginal community first, one-third Inuvialuit and one-third Gwich’in, but we also have a large community of people from different regions of Canada and around the world.”

While in Inuvik, the Rahman sisters report observing similarities between aboriginal and Muslim culture, including respect for the environment, elders, extended family, and sharing. “We also found that Inuvik’s Muslims were quite a mixed bag in terms of culture, language, religious practices, and livelihood,” says Nilufer Rahman. “Quite a few are originally from Sudan, but one gentleman of Albanian descent has been in Inuvik for almost 40 years and is likely one of the area’s first Muslims.

Syed Ali belongs to the Muslim community in Iqaluit, Nunavut’s capital (population 6184).

Trained as a mechanical engineer, Ali retired early from his commission as a Colonel in the Pakistani army to immigrate to Canada. He is Chief Boiler Inspector for the Nunavut Government.

“Our community in Iqaluit has about seven families with children whose parents work for government, but most of the other Muslims are transients,” he explains. “At any given time there are maybe 50 or 60 additional individuals from different countries, but it’s hard for us to get together. Ali continues: “One of my passions is to do something to help the Muslim community, so in 2009, I incorporated the Islamic Society of Nunavut as a non-profit organization. Its goal is to establish prayers among Muslims living in Nunavut.

Saira Rahman concludes: “The Inuvik mosque provides an opportunity to examine questions of how people view their place in the world and how home communities are formed. Its Muslim community is so small and diverse.

They all share the same space and same fundamental beliefs, yet differ in language, culture and practice.”

“The new mosque is a nice addition to the community,” enthuses Rodgers. “Except for a symbol on top, the old trailer had nothing to distinguish it. But now the minaret tower is lit up all the time. At night it’s quite spectacular.

We’re already known for the Igloo [Roman Catholic] Church, but now the mosque provides another feature to help us attract quality professionals to move here, bring their families, and become part of the community.”

52

arcticjournal.ca

May/June 2011

Follow your nose downstairs for coffee and so much more

Lower Level YK Centre #3 - 4802 50 Ave Yellowknife

☎ 867-873-8782

May/June 2011

above & beyond

53

54

arcticjournal.ca

May/June 2011

NORTHERN BOOKSHELF

Great reads for all ages The Cinnamon Mine An Alaska Highway Childhood Ellen Davignon, Harbour Publishing, 2011 A witty memoir of childhood in the Yukon, The Cinnamon Mine traces the adventures of the Porsild family from Denmark to Greenland, through Arctic Canada, to remote Johnson’s Crossing, where they operated one of the first tourist lodges on the Alaska Highway. Author Ellen Davignon recalls the early years when three kids under ten could handle the dinner crowd (slinging stew and eggs, because that’s all they knew how to make) to the later years when the trickle of cars passing through became a torrent, and the lodge offered comfortable rooms. While catering to the demands of the travelling public for grinding hours, the Porsild children enjoyed lives rich in fantasy and outdoor adventure in such settings as their “cinnamon mine”. Davignon lovingly recounts the good and hard times as the Porsild clan carved out a business and a life on the banks of the Teslin River.

Cold Land, Warm Hearts More Memories of an Arctic Medical Outpost

Talking at the Woodpile

Keith Billington, Harbour Publishing, 2010

David Thompson, Caitlin Press, 2011

In Cold Land, Warm Hearts: More Memories of an Arctic Medical Outpost, author Keith Billington dishes up more of the hair-raising and heart-warming stories about medical emergencies and Native traditions that made his first book such a hit. Time and again the Billingtons are awoken in the wee hours to find a life-threatening emergency unfolding before their sleepy eyes, which frequently ends by lighting a makeshift airstrip with rolls of toilet paper soaked in kerosene so a steel-nerved bush pilot can be summoned on a pitch-dark mercy flight to the hospital in Inuvik.

Through it all Keith and Muriel become ever closer to the Gwich’in people of the North whose life dramas the Billingtons inevitably become involved. In this book Keith and Muriel return to their northern haunts after the passage of more than a quarter century and learn the endings to many of the stories started in the first book.

In this humorous collection of short stories, David Thompson reveals the charm and grit of life in the Yukon.

Talking at the Woodpile is a masterful blend of fact and fiction, history and contemporary and intriguing stories that begin as long as 10,000 years ago. Meet an unsuspecting miner who discovers a frozen carcass while digging for gold. Share the story of two long-time friends who unwittingly challenge each other to a talking duel, which ultimately leads to a nasty case of frostbite, and an even nastier case of cold shoulder. In a moment of wry humour, Thompson describes a small town rivalry that ends when a firewood thief blows his fireplace sky high, to the delight of his victimized neighbours. Thompson portrays life in a small Canadian community, weaving his characters in and out of each other’s tales and in and out of the history that shaped Canada’s North.

2 Locations

Car Rental

in Yellowknife Airport • Downtown Daytime 867

873-3424

Evening

867 920-2970

Daily, Weekly & Monthly Rates Insurance Replacement Vehicles Great Weekend Rates Complimentary Customer Pick-Up

1-866 878-5557 Fax 867 920-2932 Reservations, Out Of Town & World Wide Toll Free

1 800 387-4747 May/June 2011

above & beyond

55

56

arcticjournal.ca

May/June 2011

INUIT FORUM

The price we pay for healthy food am often called upon to speak to groups of people across the country, to tell them about the Inuit of Canada and the challenges we face. It is usually a wide-ranging discussion, focused, of course, on gaps in social services, on our housing shortage, and on our goals for education. But I make a point of going beyond the statistics to tell people what it is really like to live in the Arctic.

Many are genuinely unaware of the staggering cost of living in our communities.

They are shocked to see that it costs $13 for a jug of milk or $17 for a bag of red grapes — foods that they buy for their own family every week at a much lower cost.

And they are even more astonished to learn that these are the prices we pay after the application of a federal subsidy that costs the government tens of millions of dollars each year. Without such subsidies, a 10-pound bag of potatoes would cost $65 in Pond Inlet, instead of $18.

In October, Inuit felt the real impact of the removal of those subsidies and the transition to the new Nutrition North Canada program when a key range of non-perishables and essential non-food items were cut from the list of eligible products. Almost immediately, the price of diapers, bottled juice and canned goods doubled in price.

I addressed members of the House of Commons Committee on Aboriginal Affairs and Northern Development to ask for caution as changes were implemented because of the drastic impact such price increases would have on struggling families.

Yet amid the ensuing debate, many of the issues surrounding food security and small business development were lost. Among them was the fact that Inuit themselves had lobbied for changes to the old Food Mail program so that mechanisms could be intro-

$8 butter and $31 infant formula in Kuujjuaq, Quebec.

© ITK

© ITK ARCHIVES/HANS BLOHM

I

duced to ensure that subsidies were passed on to consumers and to reduce spoilage of perishable items.

We also lobbied to eliminate the circuitous route food was forced to travel — through southern “entry points,” such as Val d’Or, Quebec. For instance, perishables travelling to Repulse Bay, Nunavut, would be loaded in Winnipeg and trucked to Thompson, Manitoba, transferred onto a train car destined for Churchill, Manitoba, and then put on an airplane headed to Rankin Inlet before, finally, three days later, landing on store shelves.

I was very vocal about my concerns about the short timeframe for the implementation of Nutrition North Canada, which did not take into account sealift schedules, and was perhaps based on an incomplete understanding of the economic impacts on independent retailers, which could ultimately decrease the choices available to Inuit consumers.

But I remain pleased by the program’s focus on nutrition, an obvious benefit of the

May/June 2011

inclusion of Health Canada in the planning process, as opposed to Canada Post, which administered the Food Mail program. I am also optimistic about the new program’s eventual plans to incorporate country food (so long as traditional Inuit sharing practices are not unnecessarily burdened by rules and regulations).

Still, we do not yet know how the new program’s funding will grow to meet escalating demand due to population increase and rising awareness of the program. After all, it is Inuit consumers who will bear the brunt of Nutrition North Canada’s growing pains.

Ultimately, the success of this program will be measured in the faces of Inuit parents and children — in packed cupboards and full bellies. It is our responsibility to keep them foremost in our minds.

Mary Simon

above & beyond

57

D E D I C A T E D

T O

your SEALIFT NEEDS

in Nunavik

We serve you as a partner. We are proud of your success! wvJ3SA5 WoEctŒ4v5b. sWAh4SA5 vJy5yx3ymi5y8i4¡

6565, Hébert Boulevard, Ste-Catherine, Québec J5C 1B5

|

Tel: (450) 635-0833

|

Fax: (450) 635-5126

— TOLL FREE 1(866) SEA-LIFT — www.arcticsealift.com —

ᓄᓇᓕᓐᓅᖓᔪᖅ, ᐊᑲᕐᕆᓇᖅᑐᖅ, ᐊᑐᐃᓐᓇᖃᑦᓯᐊᖅᑐᖅ

Nunallaat, Ihuarniq, Atuttiarniq Community, Comfort, Convenience

ᑲᓲᑎᓯᒪᔪᑦ ᓄᓇᕐᔪᐊᑉ ᖄᖓᒍᑦ

Haniliriikhutik Hilarjuap Qulaani Spanning the Top of the World

© above&beyond/PIERRE DUNNIGAN

Siniktarvik Hotel, Rankin Inlet, Nunavut

www.InnsNorth.com ☎ 1-888-To-North ᓄᓇᓕᓐᓂ- ᓇᒻᒥᓂᕆᔭᐅᔪᑦ ᑐᔪᕐᒥᕖᑦ, ᑲᑐᔾᔨᖃᑎᒌᑦᑐᑦ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᓕᒫᒥ.

Nunalinni-namminirijaujut tujurmiviit, kajjiqatigiittut upiuqtaqtulimaami.

Locally-owned hotels, working together across the Arctic.

First in Customer Service Every day our team of 1000 dedicated employees puts YOU FIRST with our commitment to exceptional customer service and the best northern flight schedule to 30 Northern destinations.

ᖃᐅᑕᒫᑦ 1 000 ᐃᖅᑲᓇᐃᔭᖅᑎᕗᑦ ᐊᖏᖅᓯᒪᑦᑎᐊᖅᑐᑎᒃ ᐃᓕᓐᓂᒃ ᓯᕗᓪᓕᐅᑎᑦᑎᕗᑦ ᐱᔨᑦᑎᕈᒪᓪᓗᑎᒃ ᐱᐅᓂᖅᐹᖑᔪᒥᒃ ᐊᒻᒪᓗ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒥ ᐊᑲᐅᓂᖅᐹᖑᔪᒥᒃ ᖃᖓᑕᖃᑦᑕᓂᒃᑯᑦ ᐱᓕᕆᔪᒪᓪᓗᑎᒃ ᓄᓇᓕᓐᓄᑦ 3 0- ᓄᑦ ᐅᑭᐅᖅᑕᖅᑐᒦᑦᑐᓄᑦ.

Arctic Bay Team: (left to right) Hami Shappa, Darlene Willie, Larry Oyukuluk, Tim Reid, Jeremiah Allooloo & Joe Attagutsiak