Slice Guys Finish Last
March 2017
Arizona Foodie
Magazine
What’s Eating
Chef Binkley Why He Closed Down His Other Restaurants
5-Diamond Dining
The madness of putting down the bottle to grab onto sweet success.
kyard Bac
Wasted!
In Y ou r
Sushi with Sous Chefs Talking About Overcoming Defeat
March 26 Chef Binkley What’s eating Chef Binkley; why he closed up the other restaurants. 21 Kiefer Madness How this bartender doesn’t allow alcohol to take everything from him. 13 Cook Like A Chef This Chef is doing his small part to keep the story alive. 34 No Travel Necessary 5-diamond dining experience in your own backyard. 18 Sushi With Sous Chefs Chef Donald dives into his defeat and how that brought him to his current happy place.
7 Food Truck Frosted Deliciousness comes in a truck. 8 Party Bites Cooking up a couple nibbles for your next party. 10 Healthy Morning & Night Dishes that make you feel good and full. 38 Top Ten Where do you grab your slice of pie? 40 Restaurant Openings Here’s what to expect around town soon. 42 Antatomy Of See what this dish is made of.
Editor Letter
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te Wa m t fro en estnu m Ra Ch
When I started with the @azfoodie Instagram account, I only wanted to create a community around food and share the places that I ate. I’m not a journalist, nor am I a graphic designer or a photographer. I’m a girl that loves food and the people behind it. I also believe in following your dreams no matter how hard or out of reach they may seem. So what better way to celebrate three years of Arizona Foodie than with a magazine launch! Deciding to do a magazine was one of the hardest projects I have ever completed. I felt an incredible amount of fear, the uncertainty of my worthiness and the anxiety of being judged. I can’t tell you how many times I wanted to quit. I kept thinking, Why the hell did I decide to do this? It was so much easier and cheaper to continue doing what I was doing. Did I need more stress and worry in my life? I couldn’t sleep, and when I did, I had nightmares. Yet I trudged on. Each time I finished part of the magazine, I felt a bit of relief. The nightmares turned to dreams, and I could see the light at the end of the tunnel. I realized the fear that gave me doubts was only my mind telling me I was doing something new. Creating a magazine was out of my comfort level. I turned the fear into challenges which established my goals. I’ve learned a great deal from this process, from interviewing to having business dealings with people, selling advertising, designing the magazine and everything in between. This magazine kept bringing me back to a quote that I’ve always felt encouraged by. “Everything you want is on the other side of fear.” I believe that fear is a normal part of life. We either face it straight on or run from it. We’re not characters in a movie. We have real worries that can keep us from finding our happiness. In my interviews, you’ll read how Chef Binkley overcame his misery by letting it all go, how Keifer struggled with alcohol but had that moment of clarity that led him to a path of success, and how Donald rose from defeat to being the happiest he’s ever been. You’ll see their struggles aren’t so different than ours. When we get to the other side of those fears, there is something beautiful waiting, and we grow. Many people contributed to the success of this magazine, and I want to thank each of you. The people I interviewed for being vulnerable and sharing a piece of themselves. My writers for your support and helping me in any capacity I needed, and the people who openly answered my questions on how to create and design a magazine. Constance Higley for taking gorgeous photos that, not only captured the people but their essence and the emotions in their stories. To my husband, kids and friends for your encouragement, patience, and love. I’m excited to continue the journey and bring you the next edition.
a n a i oD
xox
Photography by Constance Higley
Arizona Foodie
These are my people, they’ve helped me so much through the whole journey from blog to magazine. I’m lucky they have wanted to be a part of this and grateful they are willing to take the time to help.
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Rhea Johansen Contributor @phoodfight
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Jennifer Lind Schutsky Contributor @bitchesfoodclub
Rheana Techapinyawat Contributor @sip.eat.sleep.rhepeat
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A coo health kie s, a y serv nd i a g ng of ood cho bot cola tle of b te chi our p bon .
Elliott Clark Spirit Master @apartment_bartender
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Angel Fuchs Contributor @yaybabyblog
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Ali Wyant Contributor @alimwyant
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Stephanie Sparer Contributor @bitchesfoodclub
Photo Credit: Michelle Herrick Photo Credit: Michelle Herrick
Local Love SEE SALT® was started here in Phoenix and I’ll admit that I have a few of these little tins that I take to go. The mini take-a-long tin is my favorite products because you can refill it and always have quality, clean salt with you. It is perfect for taking in your lunch to work, on a picnic, adding to smoothies, or just for keeping in your handbag to avoid having to reach for that nasty salt shaker on the restaurant table. The artisan quality of the hand harvested fleur de sel is naturally rich with nutrients. Check them out online to buy any of their products. www.seesalttv.com
If you haven’t heard of Homeboy’s hot sauces yet, first off, I’m shocked but secondly, I’m so happy I could be the one to introduce them to you. Homeboy’s hasn’t been around too long but has gotten quite some big press and recognition for their quality products. What is Homeboy’s Hot Sauce? These are handmade small batches of sauce with fresh, natural ingredients. The sauces are carefully designed to enhance all your favorite foods and recipes. Focus on the flavor and enjoy the heat. Everything is better with your Homeboys! To purchase of find more information head to: www.homeboyshabanero.com
Blue Indigo Creations has found a way to create the perfect gift boxes for any occasion. One of the things we love most about these is that the mother/daughter duo specially designs and curates these boxes using local Arizona artisans and small businesses. You can tell they love supporting their community & believe using local products in their creations makes your gift one of kind and something to be remembered. To find out more about these gift boxes www. blueindigocreations.com
Homeboy’s Hot Sauce Photography by Cayal Snooke
y z n e r F d e t s o r F
By Angel Fuchs Photography by Timothy Fox Photography
Cupcakes are happiness.
Nothing speaks to me more sweetly than a swirl of frosting atop a personal-sized cake. Put a cupcake in front of me alongside a slice of cake of the same flavor, and I will choose the cupcake every time. They’re cute and delicious, and nobody’s doing them better than Frosted Frenzy, the Valley’s ONLY cupcake food truck. Frosted Frenzy was founded in 2010 when longtime friends, Tami Hatch and Candy Shipley began discussing the idea of a cupcake business. They took orders online and over the phone for three years before deciding they wanted to get their cupcakes in front of more people. They chose to go the “mobile” route instead of opening a store front. “A cupcake truck just sounded like a whole bunch of fun!” said Hatch. “We LOVE the flexibility of being able to travel around the Valley. We’ve met so many amazing people and truly enjoy making someone’s day with cupcakes!” In addition to doling out some of the best cupcakes in town, Frosted Frenzy is also delivering something most other food trucks can’t - instant
gratification. Don’t get me wrong, most Valley food trucks are pretty amazing, dishing up gourmet delights from their mobile kitchens, but most have one pesky thing in common - a wait time, and that’s because restaurant quality food is prepared in pretty tight quarters. It can be tough and timeconsuming. But the ladies behind Frosted Frenzy are home bakers, and under the AZ Cottage Law, they freshly bake their cupcakes before heading out to a destination. Once they arrive, their offerings are immediately available for purchase and consumption without a long wait. Hatch and Shipley put a pinch of passion and lots of love into each and every cupcake, using the finest ingredients and cherished family recipes, they bake in small batches to ensure quality and taste. “We work hard on the presentation of our cupcakes,” said Hatch. “So they look as amazing as they taste!” You’ll see Frosted Frenzy out in town about four to five times a week. You can check their schedule at frostedfrenzy. com. Be sure and follow them on social media for daily updates and flavors. Look for my personal favorites, Salted Caramel and Cookies & Cream.
Arizona Foodie
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y t r s a te P i B By Rhea Johansen
The perfect nibble!
Time to enjoy that patio weather and throw a party or two before the summer heat hits. Whip up these simple, yet crowd pleasing party bites and break out the tanning lotion. Loaded Sweet Potato Rounds 2 large sweet potatoes, sliced into ⅛-inch thick rounds 2 cups shredded cheddar cheese 4 slices bacon, cooked and crumbled 2 green onions, sliced ½ cup sour cream Preheat oven to 375°F. Spray 2 large baking sheets with non-stick cooking spray and place the sweet potato slices about ½-inch apart on the prepared baking sheets. Cook for 15 minutes, then flip them over, rotate pans, and cook for another 12-15 minutes, until crispy on the edges and the centers have softened.pans, and cook for another 1215 minutes, until crispy on the edges and the centers have softened. Remove from the heat and
carefully sprinkle 1 tbsp. shredded cheese on each round. Add a few bacon crumbles and place back in the oven for 1-2 minutes, until the cheese has melted. Garnish with a teaspoon of sour cream and a sprinkle of green onion slices on each. Serve warm. Mini Chicken & Waffle Sliders ½ cup cornstarch ½ cup all-purpose flour ½ tsp. paprika 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. ground black pepper 1 egg, beaten ¼ cup water 1 pound chicken tenders, cut into 1-inch pieces canola or coconut oil Mini waffles 2 green onions, cut into thin strips ¾ cup maple syrup 2 tsp. hot sauce In a bowl, whisk together the
cornstarch, flour, paprika, salt, and pepper. Move half of the flour mixture to another bowl. In a third bowl, whisk together the egg and water and place between the two flour bowls. Fill a large skillet with oil up to one-inch high and heat over high heat. You will know it is ready when you sprinkle a little flour in, and it sizzles. Working in batches, dip the chicken in flour, then egg, then the second flour bowl. Add the chicken to the hot oil, 5 or 6 pieces at a time, and cook until golden and crispy on both sides; about 4 minutes total. Remove from the oil to a paper-towel lined plate to drain excess oil. Repeat with remaining chicken pieces. Toast the mini waffles in a toaster oven until golden and warm. Whisk together the maple syrup and hot sauce and set aside. To assemble, place 1 piece of fried chicken on a mini waffle. Top with green onion strips and a drizzle of the maple syrup. Top with another mini waffle and secure with a toothpick.
Arizona Foodie
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Healthy Eats From Morning To Night By Rhea Johansen
Chia seeds help boost energy and metabolism
Who doesn’t need a little healthy inspiration from time to time. We’ve got you covered from morning to night with these scrumptious and hearty recipes.
Super Bowl! This breakfast bowl packed with protein and flavor, to help jump start your morning and keep you revving throughout the day. Protein Pumpkin Oatmeal Makes 1 Bowl 1/2 cup quick oats 3/4 cup almond milk 2 tbsp. plain Greek yogurt 3 tbsp. pumpkin purée 1/2 scoop vanilla protein powder 1/2 tbsp. agave nectar or honey 1 tsp. pumpkin pie spice 1/4 tsp. vanilla extract 2 tbsp. pomegranate arils 2 tbsp. chopped hazelnuts Chia seeds for sprinkling
Whisk together the oats, milk, yogurt, pumpkin, protein, agave, spices, and vanilla into a small pot. Cook over medium/high heat for 2-4 minutes, stirring frequently until the oatmeal has thickened. Garnish with pomegranate, hazelnuts and a sprinkle of chia seeds. Serve warm.
Here Fishy, Fishy Combine salmon, broccoli, spinach and brown rice and you’ll score healthy at dinnertime. Wild Salmon Rice Bowls Serves 4 2 cups cooked wild rice 2 tbsp. olive oil, separated 1 ½ cups broccoli florets 12 oz. fresh salmon, skinned and chopped into 1-inch chunks 2 cups fresh baby spinach leaves Sesame seeds for garnish Glaze: 1 ½ tbsp. soy sauce 1 ½ tbsp. honey
1 ½ tsp. sesame oil ¼ tsp. wasabi paste (optional; omit for less heat) 1 large clove of garlic, pressed ¾ tsp. fresh grated ginger Pinch of red pepper flakes In a large bowl, whisk together all of the glaze ingredients and add in the chopped salmon, toss to coat. Set aside. In a large skillet, heat 1 tbsp. olive oil over medium-high heat and sauté the broccoli florets until bright green and starting to crisp on the edges, stir occasionally. Create a well in the center of the skillet and add in the salmon and glaze. Lower heat to medium and allow salmon to cook, tossing occasionally until cooked through, about 5-7 minutes. Meanwhile, add your cooked rice, spinach leaves and 1 tbsp. water to a pot over medium-high heat and allow the spinach to steam and slightly wilt. To serve, place ½ cup spinach rice mixture each into 4 bowls. Top with salmon and broccoli. Garnish with sesame seeds. Serve warm.
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A R I Z O N A’ S T A S T I E S T F U N D R A I S E R
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Bad Boy In The Kitchen by Diana Brandt Photography by Constance Higley
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Sitting down at the bar with Chef Stephen Jones, he pokes his fork into the escargot and tells me about his days growing up.
“Even as a little kid, I remember being in the kitchen at my parent’s feet, trying to get in on the action. If somebody was outside grilling, I would make my way out there and see what was going on.” He pops the snail into his mouth and tells me how his son, Noah, does the same thing. He pushes an escargot around his plate and continues. “Even though food was a huge part of my life, football was something that I wanted to do, and I thought I was going to do it forever.” After an injury that took him out of the game, he ended up finding 14
Arizona Foodie
his way into culinary school. “Cooking has always been second nature to me, it made sense, and it felt right.” We’re interrupted by several people that know Chef Jones and who congratulate him on his recent win on the Food Network’s TV Show, Guy’s Grocery Games. Further proving how talented Chef Jones is and how fortunate we are that life opened the door to his cooking career. “By this point, I had been doing a lot of experimenting in the kitchen. I was learning a ton.” He laughs. “But there was plenty of bad food and lots of burning things.” I ask him at what point did he realize his food had gone from bad to good. He takes a bite from a chicken wing followed by a sip of whiskey. “I had always felt pretty decent about the food I was preparing, but this one night when I was cooking up dinner for
Top left: Cauliflower; signage at Larder + The Delta; array of dishes, Jeremy prepping food; chicken dish; Chef Jones cooking up hoppin’ John. On Right Page: Hoppin’ John a family, I went out of my element and tried cooking seafood. I was nervous. I had made a huge mess in the kitchen and was cleaning it up while they were eating.” He takes another sip, “They kept coming into the kitchen and saying how amazing it was. At first, I thought they were just being kind, but they started asking technical questions, and at that point, I knew they were being honest, and I knew I had something that I could be good at.” Chef Jones looks at my empty plate. He tells me how much he loves cooking, and how it fits him perfectly
Anson Mills sea island red peas
Anson Mills carolina gold rice
Parsley garnish
like that new pair of underwear or socks. I get the sense he really wants me to know how crazy he is for food, but I understand all too well. “I think about food all the time,” he says. “Me too,” I respond. After we finish a delicious churro and chocolate mole dessert, He shares a special recipe that’s dear to his heart and one you’ll always find on his menu at The Larder & The Delta. “The Hoppin’ John is a special recipe to me. It’s something growing up that my grandma made for us. It reminds me of her and my past and it means more to me as she gets older.” I discover there’s a deeper meaning and history to this recipe. He clears his throat. “When I got older, I started to understand what it was and what it meant from the standpoint of a cultural thing and for our family. Hoppin’ John was slave food. You also ate it for the new year, and it was meant to bring good luck.” Jones recalls the time he spent with his family, and about his youth. “When you talk about slave food and what that means and what it is. Old slave food, Southern food, and American food are one in the same. These recipes were created in the kitchens of the masters because guess who was doing all the cooking?” His expression is one you might see on a proud father as he tells me how the recipe’s been carried down from generation to generation. “It hasn’t changed, and this recipe is probably 60 years old or maybe more. I do crisp up the rice though, and that’s not traditional but delicious.” Chef Jones sits back in his chair and takes another sip. You can tell how humble and grateful he is. “It is such a simple dish where the ingredients speak for themselves. When I eat it, it takes me back to a time and a place and a
moment when I was a kid. When I eat it, I think about what happened and how this one dish fed so many people back in the day. This is my small way of keeping that story alive.” Desoto Central Market 915 N Central Ave, Phoenix, AZ 85004 Hoppin’ John 6 Serving 6 cups anson mills carolina gold rice (cooked) 4 cups anson mills sea island red peas (soaked in filtered water & tsp of salt overnight) 8 fresh bay leaves 1 cup holy trinity (see recipe below) 1 tsp. cayenne pepper 2 tsp. ol bay 1 Tbsp. canola oil 5 Tbsp. scallions (thinly sliced) Salt & Pepper to taste ½ cup pickled celery leafs (from the heart of the celery bunch, the golden yellow leafs) Holy Trinity yield: 1 cup 4 celery stalks (very small dice) 1 yellow onion (very small dice) 2 green bell pepper (very small dice) 6 cloves of garlic (minced into paste) 1 jalapeno (seeded, cut into very small dice. Non-traditional) Sea Island Red Peas (actual cooking liquid) Vegetable Stock to cover 3 in above the peas 2 heads Garlic cut at the root end, left whole with outer skin removed 1 Green Bell Pepper Seeds removed 1 tsp Red Pepper Flakes 1 Yellow Jumbo Onion cut in half 2 Carrots peeled and left whole 4-5 bay leaves (very important that
they’re fresh) 1 sprig Fresh Thyme Salt & Pepper to taste Cooking Anson Mills Carolina Gold Rice: Using a large sauce pot combine rice, bay leafs, large pinch of salt, fill with 2qts of water, bring to a simmer, place lid on and cook for 5 mins. Then shut off heat and let sit for 14 mins untouched. Remove lid (be careful as steam will escape rapidly), fluff with a fork, place onto parchment or wax paper lined sheet pan (cookie sheet) to cool for at least 10mins, 1 hr would be best. Assembly: Working with a cast iron pan, place over medium heat and let pan heat up for 5 mins, add a thin layer of canola oil to pan, then add cooked rice in single layer and let cook until rice begins to caramelize but not burn, roughly 7-8 mins cooking time before you begin to get color. You’re looking for a nice amber color, not burnt. While the rice is crisping up, place the Sauté pan over a burner on medium heat for 2-3 mins. Then add a nice thin layer of canola oil to the pan, then add the trinity and season with salt, pepper and cayenne and ol’ bay mix . Then continue to cook for 2-3 mins, as the garlic becomes fragrant, add the peas tossing to coat them. While peas are simmering check rice and season just with black pepper and a little of the Ol bay mixture, let rice continue to cook until that amber color is achieved. Once rice has achieved that golden color, combine with the peas and toss the two together. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Garnish with chive blossoms and the yellow celery leaves.
Here’s a look at Chef Stephen Jones’ 3 Restaurants Inside Desoto Central Market
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Arizona Foodie
The Larder + The Delta
Walrus & The Pearl
has the recipe listed in this article, along with other Southern inspired dishes.
has your fresh seafood and the best selection of oysters in town.
DCM Burger is prepared to satisfy your burger cravings and don’t forget a serving of those extra crispy fries.
Now open in both Phoenix and Gilbert, Clever Koi tempts with award-winning Asian food and premium cocktails, all served in stylish yet family-friendly setting. Grab a seat overlooking our fiery open kitchen, or settle in on our spacious outdoor dining patio, and savor the dramatic sights and sounds as we serve up the Valley’s tastiest rice bowls, house-made dumplings, steamed buns, noodles and more.
clever koi phoenix:
clever koi gilbert:
4236 N. Central Ave. #100
384 N. Gilbert Rd #101
Phoenix, AZ 85012
Gilbert, AZ 85234
602.222.3474
480.306.4237
thecleverkoi.com
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With Sous Chefs Sponsored By Pure Sushi Colony By Diana Brandt Photography by Constance Higley
What to order at Pure Sushi:
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LOCH NESS ROLL spicy crab, avocado & asparagus wrapped in house cured scottish salmon, with cilantro & sriracha, asian pesto and garlic chili samba sauce
PURE SUNSHINE ROLL crab mix, spicy tuna inside with mango and yellowtail on top served with mango sauce and ponzu.
LOLLIPOP ROLL fresh tuna, yellowtail, salmon, avocado, asparagus, crab mix with cucumber wrap and ponzu.
I walk into Pure Sushi Colony, one of the newer restaurants to hit the 7th street food scene in Central Phoenix. It’s got that brand new feel, super clean, sharp lines and decked out in ocean blue. It’s lunch time, and there are plenty of booths and tables available, but I head over to the large open bar by the cozy patio and take a seat at one of the high-tops.
under and a recent breaking point that took him out of the industry for a few months. Starting in the food profession at a young age, Donald knew without a doubt how much he loved working in the restaurant industry. “I got started a little over ten years ago at 16. I worked at Barro’s pizza, and I liked it so much that it got to the point where I was skipping school to go make pizzas.” One of the biggest things I
learning experience. I was there for about a year and four months, and by the end, it was time to part ways. After that, I left the industry for three months. I was so burnt out that I needed to mentally take a break, but during that break, I was like - what am I doing?” He didn’t have a complete hiatus from the restaurant industry but helped at various food festivals around town, and it was at one of these that his friends and some of the Chefs asked
Chef Donald Hawk walks in with a cheerful grin, and I greet him with a hug. We sit down to eat lunch, and Pure Sushi’s Chef Clinton comes over to introduce himself. We chat for a few minutes about the restaurant and the food, and he asks us to order. Donald looks over the menu, but I suggest that Chef Clinton sends over sushi rolls he wants to feature. I’m curious to find out how Chef Donald got to his current position at the Gladly’s new raw bar and what inspired him throughout his career. He shares his humble beginnings with me, all the Chefs he’s had the pleasure to work
gather from Donald is how important it is to work under different Chefs, to learn from them and to work hard to better yourself. Donald has had the opportunity to work with plenty of amazing local talent from Montelucia, to Bianco’s, Citizen Public, Welcome Chicken & Donuts and Crepe Bar. Donald’s mood changes. I see hesitation in his eyes, and he looks away. I probe, and he tells me, “After leaving one of my jobs, there was a big sense of defeat.” We talk a little more about the situation and how working in this industry can sometimes bring you to your knees. “It was such an amazing
him what he was planning to do in the future. “They said that I needed to come back because I was missed and if I wasn’t in this industry - what the hell was I doing? This is where you belong. They were right.” That was the push he needed, and in May of last year, he went to work for Welcome Chicken and Donuts. “It took a moment for me to get back to a good place in my mind. Welcome Chicken and Donuts was a big eye opener and recharged me. They like to have fun and be in great spirits. It was a good stepping stone to get back up on my feet.”
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His passion burned with the intensity of a brick oven. He knew what he had to do. Four months later he decided to return to work for Chef Bernie Kantak at The Gladly. “I’ve really wanted to learn the business side of the restaurant industry and how to open one. Bernie said he could do that for me if I came back and worked with him. I jumped at the opportunity because I realize time is valuable.”
Donald’s love for food doesn’t just confine him to a restaurant. He also cooks in his spare time doing popup dinners that he hosts with his friend and fellow sous chef, Brent Kilne. The food is wonderful, and the atmosphere fun. For more information or to attend one of these dinners, follow them on Instagram at @kosophx. We finish our Fire Dragon Roll, and he reclines in his chair. His
contentment is contagious, and I relate to his words. “Right now; this is the happiest I’ve ever been in my career. I feel like everyone has been inspirational. There is so much talent in this town, and they are so willing to give. They just want me to succeed, and I think that helps everyone succeed.” The Gladly 2201 E Camelback Rd Phoenix 85016
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Arizona Foodie
Keifer Madness
by Diana Brandt Photography by Constance Higley
Smash
Pour
Strain
Keifer is outside on his phone as I walk towards Counter Intuitve, his hair slicked back, his arms covered in colorful tattoos. He looks towards me and smiles as he ends the phone call. Old Town Scottsdale is quiet during our early afternoon meeting. We walk into Counter Intuitive and I notice an artist transforming the back wall into a giant yellow canary wearing a gas mask. The thick spray paint fumes linger inside the small bar space. I sit on a bar stool across from Keifer. He’s had plenty of interviews recently and he’s no stranger to headlines these past few months, but I can tell he’s unsure of what to expect from our conversation. He’s named best bartender and best mixologist in Arizona, and I’m giving him an award for the shortest amount of time to become an operating partner. That’s correct, at only 26 and with about five years of experience under his belt, Keifer has managed to go from bar-back to an official operating partner of Counter Intuitive and UnderTow. He looks polished and fits the part well. One might think it was an easy path for this talented bartender, but I’ve learned the
deeper story. His path’s been riddled with highs and lows. “Those dark places you hit when you’re working in the restaurant industry happen because there is so much of yourself that you’re giving out at all times.” His expression is stern and his words direct. I can cut his passion with a knife. “You’re constantly providing experiences for others. It becomes so easy to let yourself get lost in that shuffle. To the point where outside of work you become this shell of who you truly are.” Keifer shares how drinking has created struggles for him and how watching others overcome the same challenges has helped him deal with his own demons. “There’s a lot of people in the bar community that are preaching not to drink and partake in certain things. I’ve kind of gone through it a few times, where I’ve had highs and lows with it.” His biggest inspiration is Nectaly Mendoza of the prestigious Herbs & Rye. He tells me how he watches Mendoza and has followed along with his story of sobriety and how it’s helped
him so much through his tough times. “This industry will take everything from you if you let it and it’s scary,” he says with a somber tone. “I feel like Counter Intuitive helped me get out of that slump. The pace that we’ve gone and the pace that Jason makes me keep, keeps me driven and focused, to the point where I can’t let alcohol take everything from me.” Keifer’s journey started when a local Apple Bees fired him, but instead of using this as an excuse, it opened the door to his path as a bartender. He needed to do something different than the chain restaurants. He was better than that, but where to start? He googled places in Scottsdale and first up in his search, Cowboy Ciao. It seemed like the perfect fit, he was from Winslow, and this could be a cowboy scene he could relate to. “At the time, I was working at an Amazon warehouse,” he says, angst in his voice. “I was so burnt out.” One evening at work while he was sorting the endless boxes, he got a call from Chris, the bar manager at Cowboy Ciao. He didn’t get the job
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“I can’t let alcohol take everything from me.”
Keifer’s Spots to let loose: 1. Clever Koi. If I see Joshua James using an ingredient I’ve never had before, I’ll have him make that drink for me. He’s great at balancing. 2. Bitter & Twisted 3.Crudo or Okra 5. The Ostrich, if I’m on East Side 6. UnderTow
Mix
Garnish
but instead received an offer to work at their sister restaurant, Kazimierz. “I got off that phone call and walked right out of Amazon.” Keifer laughed. “I was so over it.” Kazimierz had its own challenges and quickly became a double-edged sword. “Working at that establishment was one of my personal times where I was going through a lot of partying. I was drinking a lot, and it was taking everything from me - because I let it. Drinking is almost encouraged, and everything is always a party, all the time.” Keifer began to spiral out of control. Chris, his boss, noticed his struggle and pulled him out. Giving him a change of scenery at Isabella’s Kitchen in North Scottsdale, but it wasn’t enough. He needed to step away from the bar business entirely. “I moved to Ohio. I was out of the bar business for four months. I was like, this is not what I want to do, I can’t do this anymore.” He worked a desk job that made him miserable. His
passion was restaurants, and particularly the bar scene. He felt compelled to return to it. A few months later he was back in Phoenix at Kazimierz and helping run the cocktail program at Cowboy Ciao. His internal struggle continued, but he kept it in check. “There have been plenty of ups and downs. It’s constant. If you’re in the restaurant industry, there’s always those moments that I feel like we all rely on drinking as a crutch.” Despite his struggles, his
Enjoy bar-back, Keifer quickly became a manager and was given the task to help launch UnderTow. Keifer revealed he had to make some hard choices to clean up his act. He tells me that not everyone has been supportive of his choices. His expression saddens. “There are people that have slowly removed themselves as I’ve made changes. I started hanging around people that I wanted to be more like, and the other nonsupportive people have taken care of themselves from there.” The desire to better himself and push forward forced him to make some difficult decisions like limit his drinking. When he didn’t drink, he immediately noticed a difference in his performance at work, than when he came in hungover. “For me, in the past six months, it has been a big transition from not being out very much and taking care of myself. When I start doing that, during service, the interaction with people doesn’t feel
“When I’m hungover I get this weird anxiety, like what did I do last night?” hard work and dedication got noticed, and an offer presented itself. It seemed simple, to help Jason Asher and their crew start Counter Intuitive, but ended up being a tremendous opportunity. “This past year has been my most focused. The support and that family have helped me to be able to get where I am today.” Even though initially he started off as a
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so forced. When I’m hungover, I get this weird anxiety, like what did I do last night? Do I need to apologize to anybody? When you start being able to compare and contrast those nights, you wonder why am I doing this anymore?” He pauses for a moment, hanging on to his thoughts. “It’s tough because I feel so young in this industry and I feel like everyone else got to party their asses off, and I didn’t. But at the same time, if you want to be someone that sets themselves apart from the herd, there are certain steps you have to take.” His tone changes to gratitude as he speaks about his mentor, who is now his close friend, and the person who helped him find success. Jason Asher has given Keifer something worth more than money, his time. “Having Jason as a mentor, everything has to be dialed in. If it weren’t for him and working here, I wouldn’t be where I am right now.” 24
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He recalls fond memories of his time working at Crudo with another mentor and friend. “I worked at Crudo for a better part of the year, and Micah Olson became a mentor and one of my best friends. We’d sit out on the patio after closing and talk about life and our goals. These were the guys that helped pave the way, and they lent an ear to me, and that means a lot.” I ask him to give me his thoughts on the Phoenix food scene and where he sees himself in the future. “I have no intention of leaving Phoenix, and we’re in this really cool process of creating a cool drinking city. I want to stay here and help harvest that.” He gives me a sincere grin. “Essentially, someday, I hope that I’m able to be a mentor to people, in the same way, that Jason has been for me.” Counter Intuitive 7133 E Stetson Dr #4, Scottsdale, AZ 85251
Smokey Spring By Elliott Clark
Elliott Clark is the founder and Chief Home Bartending Officer for Apartment Bartender. A lifestyle and cocktail blog focused on creative drink recipes, home bartending how to’s and other random shenanigans. (We personally love Elliott’s hilarious Instagram stories and his gorgeous shots of the drinks he prepares.) Follow him on Instagram @apartment_bartender or youtube.com/apartmentbartender For this cocktail, I’m a huge fan of the earthy/smokey flavor of Mezcal (an agave based spirit) paired with the botanicals of a gin. The other ingredients are fresh mint, homemade hibiscus syrup and fresh squeezed lemon juice. With the Arizona summer right around the corner, you can never go wrong with a refreshing spring cocktail.
Smokey Spring
Mint adds another pop of color and a nice frangrance Hibiscus gives this drinki t’s amazing color
1 oz Gin 1 oz Mezcal 3/4 oz fresh lemon juice 3/4 oz hibiscus syrup 3-5 muddled mint leaves Instructions: Combine all ingredients into a cocktail shaker. Using a muddler, gently press the mint leaves to release the flavor. Fill the cocktail shaker with ice, and shake for 7-10 seconds. Strain the drink into a cocktail glass, and garnish with a mint leaf.
What’s Eating
Chef Binkley 26
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B I knew Chef Binkley’s reputation. by Diana Brandt Photography by Constance Higley
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On opposite page starting He’s earned many James Beard Award at top left: Nominations. His restaurants Binkley’s and prepping food Bink’s Midtown were dining destinations, and before guests they were favorites in Arizona, but what did I arrive, one of the really know about him? dishes served I met Chef Binkley a handful of times during dinner; and the encounters were brief yet friendly. One Chef Binkley; night my girlfriends and I were enjoying dinner bar area at inside Christopher’s Crush, when we ran into the restaurant; Chef Christopher Gross and Chef Binkley inside apples being the bar. Until this chance encounter, I believed used for that he was intimidating and intense. What I dessert; one learned changed my perception of him. I felt of the desserts compelled to find out more and peel back the enhanced complex layers of the real Chef Binkley. with the liquid As I drive up to the newly remodeled nitrogen; Binkley’s off of Osborn and 24th St, I am checking on the greeted by Chef Binkley and his warm smile in sauce; working the parking lot. I forgot how tall he is, standing at the stove; there in his black Binkley’s shirt and blue jeans. pouring the With childlike excitement in his eyes, he takes spiked apple me around the new property. We walk to the cider for guests; front yard, past the patio and fireplace, to a view of the bar; flourishing young garden. Chef Binkley His voice is deep and nearly drowned holding the out by the passing cars. “The idea really, is that citrus salad. you’re coming into our home. We just want you to come to the event and enjoy the experience, once you’re done, you can take off and not worry about waiting for the bill. Come in, enjoy yourself and leave happy.” We move to the patio, which has plenty of comfy seating for all 24 guests. He paints an image of what I’m to expect. “The dinner is a whole process. You’ll move through the house starting on the patio where you’re greeted with a house cocktail. You’ll have about seven courses on the patio, all finger foods. From there you’ll go to the bar, where there’s designated seating. The height of chairs is different, and the room feels different. You’ll get five to six courses all plays on bar food. For instance, you might get puffed chicken wings with pok pok sauce and carbonated blue cheese.” My mouth waters. Heading into the main dining room, I see an open kitchen space built intentionally so the guests can watch the action, mingle with the chef, ask questions and take pictures. A pleasant aroma of a five-star meal fills the air. The Chef’s crew is currently working to prep food, and I feel guilty taking him away from his work, but he’s eager to share his story. “The menu is constantly changing,” he says. “Timing has been an issue for us, as we try to not only showcase things that are interesting and different but showcase when things are done right. Everybody knows how great bread right out of the oven is, but I’ve never worked at a restaurant that’s cooked bread to order.” I can personally assure you that Chef Binkley has gotten this process down so that you’ll have a fresh warm loaf waiting for you just as you sit down in the main dining room. Details like this are fantastic, but details aren’t enough. His goal is to search out and make each experience specific to each guest to create the perfect dinner. I follow him over to one of the long tables, and we begin to chat about the process of going from multiple restaurants to making the executive decision to only own one.
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This page: Preparing the bar for guests. Right page: Local citrus salad
He sobers his expression. “For about two years before making everything happen, the conversations between Amy and I started. I had a $5.5 million company with 130 employees,” he says, “There were so many things that quite honestly aren’t the reason I got into this business, I got into this business because I love food. I never wanted to be a CEO, a CFO, I never wanted to manage 130 people. I just wanted to have cool restaurants and make a better food scene.” I think we can all agree that Chef Binkley helped pave the way to a better food scene. He continued, “I was really trying to do something that I was proud of and what ended up happening with the four locations is there were days I was driving five plus hours. What was happening wasn’t sustainable. I don’t think Binkley’s was a viable location up in Cave Creek.” I’ve heard whispers of this same struggle at restaurants all around the country, and Chef Binkley was flat out tired of being HR. “For better or for worse, the people getting into this field now, who are few and far between, have a very different mentality than what it
“It was just eating me alive, it was too much” was 10 or 5 years ago. People under 30 have a different approach in dedication and cooking style. I have a hard time relating to millennials, not that they’re not bright or great, it’s just a different mentality. The mentality is tough to manage, and we are all fighting for the same employees. It doesn’t feel like anybody cares or wants to be able to cook anymore.” The choice to close shop was not something Chef Binkley and his wife rushed into. “Amy and I were talking about this, and we weren’t feeling great internally about what we were doing. I just wanted to be a Chef that got to cook great food and hopefully be successful enough to have a decent living. From a financial aspect, yes, we were making more money than we are making now but it wasn’t worth any of it. It was just eating me alive, it was too much, and it was too much of the things I don’t love.” His eyes shift away from me to look at the kitchen. “Today I went to the farmer’s market and picked out the produce.” His voice lightens up. “I got to pick out every potato that will be used this week. This is stuff I couldn’t do before because I was too busy being a bigger picture. I’m a technician, I’m not a manager, I like to cook food.” He pauses and looks down. “So how do I get back to that? I had to make some serious changes. Downsizing seemed inevitable to me to the point where I wanted to downsize so much that everybody sat at the same table when we’re having the staff meal. I wanted to get back to that.” I’ve sat in on a few of Chef Binkley’s staff meals, I’ve listened to their talks before dining service, and I’ve been in for dinner myself. I’ve seen the evolution of the experience from the time it opened to the end of January. One thing is clear. Chef Binkley respects his staff, they have become a family, one that works cohesively to create a beautiful experience for their guests. 32
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“I felt likeI didn’t have a choice, I was miserable.” Chef Binkley recalls some of his employees that were like family but burned him. His voice saddens. “It happens to so many of us, but it really bothers me. It’s not about the money. It’s about somebody being so willing to do that to somebody that’s worked so hard to make them better and give back to them. I’m certainly not the greatest employer in the world, but I’m not the worst, and I certainly care about everybody that works hard for me. I will do everything in my power to help you succeed.” I hear undertones of desperation in his voice as he says a phrase I’m all too familiar with. “I need to find balance. I’ve had five doctors over the past 12 years, all different doctors, tell me that I can’t keep doing this. They keep telling me I’m working my body past its capabilities. I’ve had five different issues. One time I went to my doctor because I thought I had an oil spot on my eye. At the time I was working 80 hours and hadn’t had a day off in two months. What the doctor saw was an ulcer on my eye, and she said that this kind of thing doesn’t happen to people my age, it happens to people that are 20 years older than me.” I get the sense that he’s holding back and I remind myself that I want to get to know the real Chef Binkley, so I inquire a little more. He clears his throat. “I felt like I didn’t have a choice, I was miserable. We could have continued to do what we were doing, and we could have expanded as well, but it was just a far cry from what I wanted to be and what I wanted to do. I have a choice of doing this, and if this doesn’t work, I’m still better off than I was before. And if this doesn’t work, I’ll have to leave town.” What’s most important to Chef Binkley is simple, he wants to cook, and he wants to surround himself with people that he can trust. He wants to give people more than just a great meal. He wants to give them an experience. His mood changes back to excitement. “What we are trying to create here is something different than what I’ve ever experienced before. There is no dinner and show - this is it, it’s a three and a half hour experience. I really want to create something exceptional. I think we have all of the right pieces in place to make that happen.” His words hang in the air as he repeats, “I hope it works, I really hope it works.” Binkley’s Restaurant 2320 E Osborn Rd, Phoenix, AZ 85016 https://binkleysrestaurant.com
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Coming In Hot For the full story on each restaurant opening, check out www.azfoodieblog.com under the Foodie Happenings tab.
The restaurateurs behind Fukushu Restaurant Concepts have announced they will be introducing its Tucson-based concept, OBON Sushi Bar Ramen, to North Scottsdale in the spring of 2017. The restaurant, which will open in the old TK’s Tavern space at Scottsdale Quarter, has been praised for its Japanese-inspired menu and notable craft cocktail program, which was recently awarded by the Tucson Bar Awards as ‘Restaurant Bar of the Year’.
In March, Paradise Valley will welcome a new restaurant, Hearth ’61, a concept led by renowned Chef Charles Wiley. Serving Valley locals and visitors alike, it will be the signature restaurant at Mountain Shadows, the new $100-million resort on the corner of 56th Street and Lincoln Drive. Chef Wiley was named one of America’s “10 Best New Chefs” by Food & Wine Magazine for his innovative interpretation of Southwest cuisine. He later created the awardwinning restaurants elements at Sanctuary Camelback Mountain Resort & Spa, and ZuZu at local landmark Hotel Valley Ho.
The larger conversion at Cityscape, which was a former Verizon store, should open late spring. For Ahipoki, who introduced the popular poke bowl concept to Arizona just last April, this will total five locations opened including their Chandler and Scottsdale stores with several more to be announced in the coming months. Poke, a Hawaiian based dish featuring diced sushi grade fish like ahi tuna, salmon, shrimp and yellowtail garnished with vegetables and exotic toppings like daikon sprouts, seaweed salad and masago served over a bowl of rice is the quick serve industry’s hottest new concept.
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No Travel Necessary You’ll find this resort in Arizona’s backyard
Left: Chef Ryan Swanson putting finishing touches Duo of Goose and Rabbit. This page: Fly South
by Diana Brandt Photography by Constance Higley
From Left: Pouring final touch into Hahn Soup, finished Hahn Soup dish; Chef Swanson chopping; Duo of Goose and rabbit; finishing with a sauce on Fly South
Nestled in the Arizona desert like an up to breakfast in bed and coffee on the patio which oasis, you’ll find a hidden 4-diamond overlooked the golf course and pools. The Aji Spa is a resort. The Sheraton at Wild Horse large 17,500 sq ft facility, and in the Pima language, Aji Pass is perfect for a relaxing vacation means Sanctuary. When I arrived for my spa treatment, or a quick break from reality. The resort I was greeted by calming music and the smell of sage. I is located on the Gila River Indian walked into the women’s waiting room, slipped into my Reservation in Chandler, and soft robe and grabbed a water even though you’re minutes “The biggest hurdle will be and some snacks. I was beyond ready to get a HO’DAI, which from city amenities, you’ll feel yourself. I fi nd that accepting like you’re in a faraway land. is the Gila River rock massage. Located in our mediocrity in this business will For centuries, the Pima and backyard, The Sheraton is rich Maricopa people have used severely impact your caree r and in culture and stays true to hot rocks to alleviate pain and lead to the death of it.” soothe the soul. Warm stones the essence of the Pima and Maricopa tribes. Like a Native are applied to your body and American basket, their heritage is weaved in all parts of used to massage your muscles. The experience will leave you in a state of deep calm and tranquility while the resort from room decor to the spa treatments and of course, the fine dining experiences and food. clearing toxins and restoring the body to a natural state of balance. I had the pleasure of not only dining at the resort but enjoying a spa treatment. I loved waking The resort also boasts a beautiful golf course
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and an equestrian center where they provide riding lessons and trail rides. Cascading waterfalls fill four pools, and you’ll love racing down the 111-foot waterslide, which models the ancient Casa Grande Ruin. Other amenities include Tennis courts, jogging trails, and two restaurants. Kai is rated a 5-diamond and Forbes 5-star dining experience, while Ko’Sin is the perfect spot for breakfast and lunch. Chef Ryan Swanson runs The kitchen at Kai. With his extensive 15 years of experience in the luxury hospitality and culinary industry, he has the background to give you world-class service. He’s proud and honored to work at Kai, and he tells me how rewarding of a position he’s in. “How many people get a chance to say they are supported by the Pima and Maricopa community? Whether it’s with ingredients, artwork, or cultural knowledge I am a very lucky Chef.” It hasn’t been easy for Chef Swanson to be where he’s at today. He’s had to learn how to overcome
significant challenges. “There are many hurdles that many culinary professionals are going to run into everyday in this industry. The biggest hurdle will be yourself. I find that accepting mediocrity in this business will severely impact your career and lead to the death of it. Don’t accept bland under any circumstance! If you expect the best out of yourself and others, it will transfer into the dining room and the restaurant. Be the best YOU every damn day!” I asked Chef Swanson what he wants people to feel after they leave dinner at Kai. In a sincere voice, he said, “I want them to talk about their dining experience for years to come. I want the guests to be educated and entertained at the same time. If their journey ends with all that and a touch of curiosity, then I’ve done my job.” The Sheraton at Wild Horse Pass 5594 W Wild Horse Pass Blvd, Chandler, AZ 85226 www.wildhorsepassresort.com (602) 225-0100
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st La sh ini F ys Gu Sl ice by Diana Brandt Photography by Constance Higley
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Wine is a must with your slice!
10 Best Places To Graab A Pie Pizzeria Bianco o La Piazza Al Forn no Cibo Urban Pizzer ria Crust Forno 301 Spinatos The Parlor Pomo Pizzeria Fire & Brimston ne The Ostrich
Notorious B.I.G. burger
Anatomy of the Send your favorite menu item to arizonafoodie@outlook.com. If we feature that dish, you’ll win a $50 gift card to the restaurant.
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ad
Partygoers, cocktail lovers and captains of industry will gather for the inaugural Cocktail Society soiree for an exclusive collection of libations and food, live entertainment and new reveals around every turn. Entertainment
to
include
aerial
bartenders, shadow dancers, dueling DJs, electric string quartet Urban Electra, champagne diva, & more!
The Cocktail Society Friday, April 7 | 7:00-11:00PM
Scottsdale Center for the Performing Arts | 7380 E 2nd Street, Scottsdale, AZ 85251
$85 PRESALE | $100 DAY OF EVENT
Includes complimentary cocktails and unlimited food, live music and entertainment scottsdalefest.org/2017-cocktail-society
$5 off with coupon code AZFOODIE
simple ingredients.
signature CR E ATIONS .
Hearth ‘61 embodies authentic, honest cuisine and features dishes inspired by the freshest local ingredients that are in season. Complement your meal with craft cocktails, local brews and an extensive wine selection. These time-honored avor pairings are accompanied by views of our exhibition kitchen, stone hearth and breathtaking desert scenery.
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