Sept. - Dec. 2017
Arizona Foodie “Being a woman in this industry is hard, it really is.� pg. 19
3 ways to satisfy your carb cravings
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Tasting Tucson Fres
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Travel for your tastebuds! pg. 26
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AM
SEVEN DAYS A WEEK
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September 6 Food Truck The heartbreaking story ,behind Hibatchibot. 9 Pasta La Vista Homemade pasta and 3 perfect sauces to pair it with.
14 The Evolution of leDinersaur From baking bread to pastries, Olivia sugars us up!
26 Tasting Tucson Head South for the Winter and see what Tucson’s got to offer.
19 Stevie with a Twist The struggle of being a female in the industry.
34 Throw a few Bac with this local Tucson Whiskey Maker.
22 Sushi With Sous Chefs Chef Martin on the importance of balance.
36 No Travel Necessary You don’t have to go far to taste enjoy this spectacular meal.
40 New Kid On the Block This is the second time around for this restaurant. 42 Anatomy Of: See what this dish is made of.
Editor Letter I’m excited to bring you this issue of Arizona Foodie Magazine. It was a delight to create and bring you more inside stories from our local Chefs, pictures of delicious menu items, and a special treat featured in our “Anatomy Of” section. We’re on the downhill run of summer, and the cooler weather is just around the corner. Thank goodness, it was a hot one this year. Lower temperatures mean more outdoor activities, but if you need a quick escape now, you may consider a short trip to Tucson where you can enjoy a cooler climate while checking out their hot food scene. Tucson was our latest tasting town (pg. 26) and what I once thought was bare bones, has become a plethora of some of the best spots to eat and drink. I dined for three days, and barely scratched the surface of what Tucson has to offer the taste buds. It was a privilege to try out some of the top spots in town. Not only did I get to relax at one of the nicest resorts, Hacienda Del Sol, but we got to take a tour of Whiskey Del Bac’s facilities (pg. 34) where I became fascinated with the process of blending and barreling whiskey. Who knew it was such a beautiful art? I’ve already put Tucson in my calendar for a second trip, but until then, please enjoy the visual tour we take you on.
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a ef n a i o D r In Chi
xoanxa Brandt Edito Di
Rhea Johansen Recipe Creator @phoodfight
Stephanie Sparer Writer @bitchesfoodclub
Angel Fuchs Writer @yaybabyblog
Joseph Riedy Photographer @newfoodphx
Jennifer Lind Schutsky Recipe Creator @bitchesfoodclub
Ali Wyant Writer @alimwyant
Copyright 2017, Arizona Foodie, LLC All Rights Reserved.
Have a question or a comment or want to advertise with us? Email us at arizonafoodie@outlook.com
Heartache, Hope, Hibachibot
Written By Angel Fuchs
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Left: Hibatchibot Food Truck with robot drawing resembling the couple’s son, Seth. Above: Calvin before he passed away, with brother Seth.
Stories of triumph over
tragedy always move me, it speaks volumes about the capabilities and endurance of the human spirit. No truer words could be spoken about Virginia and Eddie Schenck, the husband and wife duo behind Hibachibot, a local food truck. Five years ago the unthinkable happened, Calvin, the Schenck’s 13-year-old son lost his fight against cancer. The profound loss of their child was unbearable, and initially they threw themselves into their work to cope. “Diving into our careers was our original way of not having to process too much of it right away;” said Virginia. Then life dealt another blow, and Virginia lost her job as a director of operations for an aerospace manufacturing company. “The day I was fired I came home and cried out of shock,” Virginia said. “Eddie told me I needed to do whatever I wanted, and I told him I wanted to sell Korean BBQ. It was such a strong feeling, as if our angel, Calvin was guiding me.” Eddie’s response: “ok, let’s make it happen.” And in that moment of hope over heartache, Hibachibot was born. Eddie, a metal artist, gave up his art gallery in Carefree to embark on this new adventure with his wife. Armed with family recipes and inspiration from Virginia’s Korean heritage, the Schencks tapped into their artistic sides to develop a menu that is both delicious and
portable, appealing to the food truck crowd. “Traditional Korean foods were difficult to serve out of our food truck, so we decided to combine the easy-to-eat taco with the bulgogi steak and dakgogi chicken,” explained Virginia. “The rice bowls evolved out of the need to not use skewers, forks, and knives.” “Our menu is really an extension of our creativity,” she added. And creative it is, patrons will find spicy delight in fusion fare like the Mexorean Fries, a monstrous pile of perfectly crisped fries topped with bulgogi beef, cheese, cilantro and copious amounts of sriracha. The taco shells are lightly fried giving them a texture that will appeal to both soft and crunchy taco lovers. Dad’s Famous Tacos pay homage to their late son. “Eddie made these tacos every Friday night,” said Virginia. “Calvin always said if we ever had a restaurant we had to sell ‘Dad’s Famous Tacos.’ We made a Korean version and put them on the menu.” You can also find the Schenck’s creativity in the truck itself. Like the food they are serving, their rig is a showstopper. The sides are emblazoned with their logo, and a robot drawn by Virginia in the likeness of their other son, 14-year-old, Seth. “Virginia put a pot on Seth’s head and drew him,” said Eddie. “If you were to see our son you would see the resemblance.” Eddie’s artwork is also showcased on the rig. A gigantic robot, he created out of metal scraps, beckons hungry customers over to their truck. The innovative team outfitted the robot with speakers, so it serves as a PA system to call out orders. Hibachibot hits Valley streets four to six times a week. You can find their schedule on social media (@hibachibotfoodtruck) or on their website http://www.hibachibot.com.
Arizona Foodie
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Local Love By Ali Wyant
Arizona has a ton to offer in local goods and these are just a few of our favorites.
Higher Grounds Roastery
Paletas Betty Arizona is hot most of the time and we could all use a cold treat here and there. Paletas Betty delivers on this front. Serving handmade Mexican pops made with fresh ingredients in small batches. Our personal favorites include the Orange Vanilla Cream and Blackberry Lavender. Check them out in Downtown Chandler or Tempe off Mill Ave.
Add freshly roasted coffee beans to your life and I’m pretty sure your mornings will be extra flavorful. There is more than one place in the valley to get freshly roasted coffee, but I want to talk about Higher Grounds in Gilbert. They roast their coffee beans on site, and the amazing breakst they serve, is worth the trip itself. Can you say, biscuits and gravy? Stop in to grab some flavorful coffee, a bite to eat and some freshly roasted coffee beans for home. www.hgroastery.com
www.paletasbetty.com
Hayden Flour Mills
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Photo Credit: Marc Lipczynski @azfoodie
Have you heard of Heritage grains? Heritage grains go back to the time when flour was non-hybridized and not overly processed, back when it truly was flavorful. Hayden Flour Mills has some deep history in the valley, 100 plus years deep. The Hayden Flour Mills give us a healthier option on a range of grains, many you may have never heard of before. They also boast an impressive list of restaurants throughout Arizona that use their grains daily. You could also find them at a local grocery store or market, like Sprouts or Phoenix Public Market. Here’s to baking more flavorful, and healthier items in our own kitchens. www.haydenflourmills.com
Pasta La Vista Homemade pasta done three ways Sponsored By Queen Creek Olive Mill
by Rhea Johansen
Olive Oil, Garlic, and Crushed Red Pepper Pasta
Pasta with Bolognese Sauce
Basil Pesto Pasta
Arizona Foodie
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Sift 3 cups of flour on to a clean work surface.
Form a volcano-shaped mound with a well in the center. Break 4 large eggs into the middle and add the salt.
Use your hand to keep the shape of the volcano and mix it together by slowly adding the flour to the eggs with a fork.
Continue to mix the flour into the eggs with your hands until it forms a coarse paste. Start to knead the dough with your hands.
Continue to knead the dough for 10-15 minutes until it becomes smooth and elastic. If the dough gets hard just wet your hands and continue to knead it. Wrap the dough in cling-film and let rest for around 10 minutes.
Place the dough out on floured work surface and it out with a rolling pin, or machine to form a very (almost see through).
Roll/Fold the dough over little by little sprinkling a little flour over the dough each time.
Cut into thin strips, open them and put to rest on a clean cloth for about 30 minutes.
When ready, bring a pot of salted water to a boil, add the pasta and cook it for 5-7 minutes. Toss with desired sauce and serve hot.
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the lightly gently roll use a pasta thin sheet
Who says you can’t make your own pasta and eat it too? We’re giving you a step by step play on how to make your noodles at home. You can pair those carbs with one of the three pasta sauces we’ve made with local favorite Queen Creek Olive Mill. You can purchase their products used in these recipes by going into their stores located in Queen Creek or Kierland or online at www.queencreekolivemill.com
Bolognese Sauce 1 lb. lean ground beef 2 tbsp. Queen Creek Olive Oil ½ onion, finely chopped 1 medium carrot, finely chopped 1 stalk celery, finely chopped 4 garlic cloves, minced
1 28-oz. can crushed tomatoes 1 ½ tsp. balsamic vinegar 1 tsp EACH salt, dried oregano, dried parsley ½ tsp. dried thyme ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper ¼ tsp. rd chili pepper flakes Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. Add meat, onions, carrots and celery and cook until meat is browned. Add garlic and sauté 30 seconds. Drain off any excess grease if needed. Stir in all of the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer. Simmer uncovered for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Serve Bolognese Sauce over cooked pasta.
Pasta with Olive Oil, Garlic, and Crushed Red Pepper ½ cup Queen Creek Garlic Olive Oil 3 cloves garlic, minced 1-2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 1 ¼ tsp. kosher salt 1/2 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds, making sure it doesn’t brown. Add the red pepper, salt, and parsley and bring to a simmer. Toss with the cooked pasta.
Basil Pesto 3 cups fresh basil leaves, slightly packed 1/3 cup grated parmesan cheese 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tsp. lemon zest 1/4 cup toasted pine nuts 2 tsp. lemon juice 1/2 cup Queen Creek Basil Olive Oil Add the basil leaves, parmesan cheese, minced garlic, lemon zest, pine nuts, and lemon juice to a blender or food processor. Blend continuously. Stream in the olive oil and allow the ingredients to emulsify with the oil. Taste the pesto, add additional garlic or parmesan to taste. Toss with the cooked pasta.
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And many more...
The Evolution Of
leDinersaur by Diana Brandt Photography by Joseph Riedy
W
What stands out to me on Instagram? Interesting people, places, businesses, and of course mouthwatering food photos. I found Olivia Girard on Instagram @leDinersaur. Her account intrigued me with its unique style that featured delicious baked goods and sandwiches. Even her logo of a shadow puppet forming a dinosaur accentuated her creativeness. The more I looked at her feed, the hungrier I got. I found out that Le Dinersaur delivers to your doorstep, so I quickly ordered a sandwich for the following week. Olivia showed up at my door with a little brown box in hand. I greeted her, and we exchanged smiles before she headed off to her next delivery. I opened the box and found with my sandwich, a fresh baked cookie, chips, a sparkling water, and a sweet affirmation. After the first bite of my bacon, egg, and roasted sesame crème fraiche on a delicious freshly baked bread, I knew I was hooked on Le Dinersaur and everything that Olivia was doing. That first order was almost a year ago, and Olivia has since become another example of how a business can become successful through social media. What started as baking bread for fun has become a full operation in only two years. In September of 2015, Olivia began delivering sandwiches once a week. By January, she quit her job and delivered full time. The craze hasn’t stopped! With the rapid growth of Le Dinersaur, Olivia stopped delivering single sandwiches but will still deliver to groups of 15 or more. Now, you’ll find plenty of her sweet treats around town in coffee shops. Initially, she never pictured herself baking sweet treats, but she’s willing to go wherever her business leads her. I texted Olivia to see where we can meet for the interview and what recipe she wanted to share. I suggested a coffee shop. “I’m a nervous nelly,” she texts me back, “so the idea of an interview plus
Left: Olivia Girard in her kitchen. Above: Orange olive oil and almonds pastry and Olivia powdering her pastry treats.
wine sounds comfy.” We decide on Postino’s. I see Olivia’s settled at the bar with a glass of white wine. She’s chatting to the bartender, and I get the impression she’s a regular at this popular Arcadia spot. We give each other hugs and head to the back of the room to sit at one of the high tops away from the commotion. She sets her glass in front of her and smiles. Her Instagram account matches her personality. Her hair is a light blond, except at the roots where a little brown peeks through. It’s cut shoulder length and straight across, matching her bangs. She’s petite and sweet, with a soft and kind voice to match. When she smiles, it fills up her entire face, and you just know you’re going to like her the minute you see her. “So which recipe did you decide on?” I asked her after some small talk. “I did the Orange Olive Oil cake. It was one of the first cakes that I baked, and was the cake that got me into baking.” “Oh,” I said. I probably looked shocked. Olive oil cake is mildly sweet. I assumed all bakers are as obsessed with sugar as I am. “I’m not a dessert person at all,” she said. “Which is weird considering what I’m baking all the time now. I’m a, buy another appetizer instead of a dessert, kind of person.” She giggles and twirls her cup. “I made this cake for my dad’s birthday. It’s not too sweet. I think my idea of cakes is the Safeway birthday cakes with the tough icing.” Olivia smirks. “I think it’s the same for a lot of people. When people approach me to make something, they tell me, we don’t like anything too sweet.” She explains that her father wanted something simple and oranges were easily accessible. Her relationship with her father peeked my interest, so I ask her about him. “The bread is really inspired by my dad, who was raised in France.” Her face lights up as she recalls her memories as a child. “We would go back as kids and have access to inexpensive bread with incredible flavor.” I too have a things for French breads and pastries. Olivia continues. “Right before I started baking, I was doing print making. It was a very intense and involved process.” She tells me the turning point in her career and how she began her journey into baking. “I ordered a printing press, and the guy I ordered it from took my money and disappeared.” She leans back, frustrated, and takes a sip of her wine. “I ended up fixing that mess, but overall, it didn’t work out. In the middle of that experience, I started feeling like I didn’t know what to do. I wasn’t able to make anything.”
Arizona Foodie
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ORANGE OLIVE OIL CAKE WITH ORANGE CREME FROSTING
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“The kitchen is such a gathering place, and I told you, I’m such a nervous person. So when people come over to the house to hang out, I like being in the kitchen.” “So you started baking?” I asked. “I got this feeling that I just wanted to make good bread and understand the workings of it.” “So you didn’t have experience before?” “No, baking started from there. It got to the point where my boyfriend was like, ‘we can’t have all this bread around.’” I laughed as I pictured a house full of bread. Olivia laughed with me. “So I thought, on my day off, I’ll make a sandwich and text my friends and let them know, this is what I’m offering today, let me know if you want some. From there it grew.” I’m intrigued by this idea that Olivia has never baked bread in her life. I asked her about her childhood, her kitchen, and where this passion began. “Cooking has never been something that I was afraid of. Growing up, cooking was a big part of my family, and my grandmother’s, on both sides, were always in the kitchen.” I like to eat bread, to take in its tantalizing aroma, but I have little knowledge of baking it. Except that you have to be precise. While most of us use yeast, Olivia decided to play around with the starter. She uses a mixture of flour, water, and culture that ferments together for a time and is used in place of a yeast or in addition to. This process takes more time and work, which is why she no longer does it. Olivia continues. “I was fascinated with the starter, feeding it, and understanding all the technicalities. If I had more help, maybe it would have stayed more in the artisan bread sandwich delivery business. The potato buns that I make right now do have a little bit of starter in it, but I do use yeast to save time.” We chat about the ebb and flows of her business. “I think what works with my creativity is the constant change. That’s why I despise working for someone. It’s always the same, and you have to do it this way. I feel so stifled doing that.” We talk about family and having meals in the kitchen and around the table. We share memories on how we grew up learning how to cook and how important it was to be together during meal times. “The kitchen is such a gathering place, and I told you, I’m such a nervous person. So when people come over to the house to hang out, I like being in the kitchen. It’s hard for me to sit when people come over. I like being able to interact with the group in a detached way. Plus, the kitchen is always where everyone goes to hang out anyway.” As our conversation comes to a close, I ask her about her plans for Le Dinersaur. “I don’t want a storefront. I think the end goal is to have an event space that is small and intimate with a catering kitchen in it. Where the kitchen is a part of the event space, and people can come for parties, and the food is right there too. I think there’s something appealing to the aesthetic of what someone makes and then enjoying the overall experience.” I can envision what Le Dinersaur’s space would look like, and the delicious delights Olivia would make. It would be minimal but teeming with creativity and pops of color. The food would be little bites bursting with flavor, and the company would be the sweetest in town.
ORANGE OLIVE OIL CAKE 2 eggs 1 cup sugar 2 cup AP flour 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp baking soda 1 tsp salt 2/3 cup EVOO (good quality, mild olive oil) 4 tsp orange zest 1/2 cup fresh squeezed orange juice 1/2 cup buttermilk 1. in a stand mixer, beat eggs & sugar, about 5 minutes. until fluffy 2. in a large bowl, combine flour, baking powder, baking soda & salt. 3. in a separate bowl, combine olive oil, orange zest, orange juice, buttermilk & olive oil. whisk together. 4. now you’ll add your dry ingredients & wet ingredients to the bowl of your stand mixer in 3 additions. starting with the dry & ending with the wet. make sure to thoroughly beat in between additions. 5. bake in oven at 350 until toothpick comes clean - about 40 minutes.
ORANGE CREME 1 cup ice cold whipping cream 1/4 cup powdered sugar 1 tblspn orange zest 2 tsp orange juice 1. place bowl & whisk attachment in freezer - at least 5 minutes before you want to make creme 2. add all ingredients into your ice cold bowl & whisk on high until soft peaks form. 3. scoop the creme on top of your cake & viola!
Arizona Foodie
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Vanilla Bourbon Cider
This Autumn sip on Fall flavors, while still keeping cool. By planning ahead you can integrate more spices into your drink and create a bolder flavor. Start this drink, by infusing bourbon with a vanilla bean for about 2 week. Just long enough to get a warm subtle hint of vanilla.
For this drink, you’ll need; Bourbon Sparkling Cider Angostura Aromatic Bitters Vanilla Bean(s) Cinnamon Stick (optional) Apple slices for garnish
For each drink, individually splash 1-2 drops of Angostura Aromatic Bitters to coat the low ball glass, add 1-2 ounces of vanilla bourbon and top with sparkling cider and ice. Garnish with a cinnamon stick and/or vanilla bean stirrer, and a slice of apple on the side.
By Jennifer Lind Shutsky
Stevie with a
Twist
by Diana Brandt Photography by Joseph Riedy Arizona Foodie
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I
I look at my watch, and it’s barely 1 pm. It’s too early to be inside a bar. In typical Arizona summer fashion, the sun is scorching, and the temperature is above 100 degrees. I breathe a sigh of relief as I walk inside The Womack. The cool air from the air conditioning liberates me from the heat. The dimly lit bar is almost completely empty. Booths covered in black fabric line up along the wall with large wooden tables separating them. Matching stools guard the bar as Stevie Raeann works behind them, doing inventory. I introduce myself, and she greets me with a smile. A sudden loud shrill comes from the bathrooms which sound like a nightmare scenario at the dentist. “Those bathroom doors have been an issue since day one!” Stevie says. She tells me a few stories of panicked people locking themselves in the bathroom and then busting through them to get out. I laugh, and Stevie joins in. Her giggle is contagious, and she has a calmness about her. She grabs a couple of cups and a glass container filled with fresh water. We make our way to one of the lush booths closest to the stage. During the weekend, you’ll find a crowd jamming out on the dance floor to live music. I hear the space can get cozy, quite quickly, as the bar fills up with guests sipping on cocktails and nibbling on bites offered at the bar. While planning this article, a thought occurred to me. I hardly hear stories that feature female mixologists. Is this something that is prevalent in the industry or is it just in our local Arizona scene? Since I have the opportunity to interview Stevie, I ask her what she thinks of the whole situation. “Being a woman in this industry is hard, it really is,” she says. “You don’t get
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as much acknowledgment or recognition. I’m lucky to have found some very strong women that are encouraging and have pushed me to be better than I thought I could be.” I ask Stevie if she can elaborate. “You have to fight ten times harder just to get the smallest bit of recognition of something that you’ve done or something that you’ve created. Then half of the time you don’t even get that. I was raised by strong women. In this industry, it’s astounding that there are not more women pushing harder and harder. It’s also hard to push without coming off like a feminist. My mom was a single mom, and she raised two of us while serving and she’s been through some crazy struggles, but she never gave up. I think I’ve only seen her cry like two times in my life.” I’m taken back by her words. Are her talents stifled or taken for granted? “Have you gotten any recognition for anything?” I ask. “I’ve gotten some acknowledgment. A lot of it was in collaboration with Chris, who was a GM I first started with and who became my mentor. We got our cocktail featured as cocktail of the month on the first of the year, and that was the first thing I was ever recognized for.” We’re interrupted by the loud drilling noise coming from the bathroom. We each take a sip from our glass, waiting for it to stop. Stevie continues and tells me that many of the women in the industry are working at clubs in Scottsdale because it’s easier to make fast money in that situation. “I get that aspect of it too,” she says. “I’ve been there and done that. I’ll admit, yes, I made good money, but I wasn’t happy. At this point in my life, I would rather be happy making a cocktail and end up being broke.” We shift the subject to how Stevie got started in the industry. She tells me she’s been in it since she was 16. “My first job was serving coffee in the mall. I didn’t get into bartending or serving until I was 21. Then I was cocktailing at a strip club for about two years. It was really good money.” Stevie gained more experience about alcohol at each job. At Barrio Queen, she learned more about Tequila. At Brick in downtown, she gained knowledge of the craft beer industry. Then she finally landed at the VIG, which is part of Genuine Concepts, along with Ladera, Cobra Bar, Linger Longer Lounge, The Little Woody, The McMillan and of course, The Womack, where she’s worked for almost a year. Stevie continues to talk about her experience and then shares one of her passions. This one could potentially take her out of state. “I’m a metalsmith, and I make jewelry. I’m still in school for it, and my teacher is amazing. I’ve been going for three years so far. I have to give myself a day off from the bar so that I can do something for me. I love being able to get creative in another aspect of my life. This is what I want to do with the other part of my career.” “Do you think jewelry making will replace bartending?” “I don’t want it too. I want to do both things. I’ve been in Arizona my whole life, and I’m kind of over it. There’s a school in Portland that I’ve been looking at for an Arts program. That’s one thing that I have my eye on. The Pacific Northwest is where I would want to go.” Being from Seattle myself, we talk about the weather and the culture. Stevie tells me her family lives in Arizona and leaving them feels impossible to do. I nod my head in understanding. I’ve been in that position. My entire family is up in Seattle, but sometimes a clean break is necessary for our own personal growth. We end the interview, and I thank Stevie. She’s a kind soul, and I appreciate her struggle to express her creativeness and gain recognition for her talents. As our local food industry grows, I’m thankful for women like Stevie, who can help pave the way.
“Being a woman in this industry is hard, it really is. You don’t get as much acknowledgment or recognition.”
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TORO WITH LECHE DE TIGRE MINT AND CUCUMBER
Sushi With
Sous Chefs
By Diana Brandt Photography by Joseph Riedy
Sponsored By The Gladly
Above: A special dish for the evening we dined there, Scallop Crudo with grapefruit, buttermilk and daikon. Right: Chef Martin talking with Diana Brandt
I see him propped up against the bar, his eyes locked onto his phone screen. The lunch crowd at The Gladly has melted away, and the huge floor to ceiling windows eagerly let in the hot afternoon sun. “Hussein Martin?” I ask, with a smile. He’s not your typical Sous Chef. He never expected to be working in food, but yet he’s been working under the same Chef his entire career. I tell him we met once before, but he doesn’t recall our brief meeting. We walk into the large dining room and sit at a booth, which lends us the perfect space to chat and enjoy some cocktails and bites. Like many patrons, I’m a sucker for the famous OMG Salad, formerly known as The Chopped Salad, but today I’m anxiously awaiting to see what Sous Chef Donald will bring for us to try. The Gladly has many great dishes, but If you see Donald, he’s typically behind the bar shucking oysters and creating flavorful dishes that feature Chula Seafood, a local Phoenix fish vendor. They supply fresh fish daily to restaurants around town caught from their boat in San Diego. We make some small talk to get acquainted. “So what got you into food?” I ask. “I fell into it. My first career was doing marketing, and then I got into the idea of cooking and went to Le Cordon Bleu in Scottsdale. That’s when I was like, let’s try it out and go from there.” “Did you work at many different restaurants?” “I worked for Matt Carter from the beginning.” I found this very interesting. It’s not the typical mold. Most people work at many restaurants, learning from different Chefs. “Matt is a talented Chef, fun guy, and good friend. He’s tough in the kitchen, although he’s not in the kitchen anymore.” I laughed. Chef Carter certainly has a reputation for being tough in the
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kitchen but he’s well respected, and with six different restaurants around town, I’d say he’s quite successful too. I’m sure you’ve been to at least one of Chef Carter’s restaurants, and if not, you’ve heard of them. He’s got The Mission and Zinc Bistro, which each have 2 locations, House Brasserie and his newest concept, Fat Ox. Hussein continued. “It was 2006 that I started with Chef Carter. He’s a great mentor to me, and I’ve learned a lot, and now he’s given me the opportunity to run my own restaurant, House Brassiere in Old Town Scottsdale. I switched over there May of 2015.” Hussein’s beginnings weren’t quite as easy to navigate. His life began in Texas, but he grew up in Northern New Mexico with his mom and five brothers. “I moved out here to Arizona, to get away from the small-town atmosphere.” His mom raised the six of them on her own since he was 4. “My dad did not want the responsibility of raising kids. He passed away when I was about 14, and I was never able to ask him questions that I wanted answers to. It affects everyone in different ways, but I had my mom and brothers. I also found comfort in getting some of those answers and support from people in the community that we lived in.” He still struggles with his family life but for a different reason. “For me, not having a father, it’s important for me to be around, even though I work long hours. I must make that sacrifice when it’s time to go home. That’s been the hardest struggle for me. Don’t get me wrong, my wife, Dahlia, is fine and she understands, but my son doesn’t. Being there for him is my top priority.” As we nibble on the scallops prepared with juicy grapefruit slices and a drizzle of oil, Hussein smiles as he speaks. He’s found a couple of good people in the kitchen that he trusts to run the place when he’s gone. This has been key for him to be able to find that balance and be there for his son.
“Tuesday is our special day. Nobody’s allowed to call or text me, and I’m not allowed to receive emails. On that day, I wake up in the morning and take Issac to preschool for a couple of hours. Then the rest of the day is just us. We might go to the museum or the waterpark, anything to get out of the house.” I thank Chef Donald as he places a plate of deviled duck eggs before us. The eggs are from our local purveyor, Two Wash Ranch. The yolks are skillfully flavored with Korean Chile, and the egg whites are marinated with kalbi. A crisp piece of prosciutto tops the dish. Between bites, Hussein gets back to telling me about his time with his son and about their beach vacation in a couple of days. “I built train tracks with him last night,” he says, proudly. “We bought him a set and gave it to him before his birthday. He was up at 11 p.m. - waiting for me to get home. I was like ok, let’s do this, we will build the tracks now, and we can play with it in the morning. Those are the things you have to do, even when you want them to go to sleep. That’s what shows them that you’re there for them.” Our napkins are on the table, our plates are empty and our bellies satisfied. Hussein has let me peek inside his private life, and I’ve been able to experience first-hand his gentle demeanor. He mentions that it’s the same way he acts in the kitchen, no yelling and there are no throwing plates around. He looks down at his phone to check the time, but before I let him scurry off to Old Town Scottsdale, and back to the kitchen at House Brassiere, I ask him what his plans are for the future. “I think I will leave Matt. Eventually, you got to grow and move on, and he knows that too. It’s all about the right timing. I would only move once I’m ready to start my own restaurant.” We say our farewells as we get up from the table, and I give him a hug. I watch him as he walks out of the restaurant and into the heat. You may not know who Hussein is yet, but I can tell he’s going to have an even bigger impact on our food scene soon.
“For me, not having a father, it’s important for me to be around, even though I work long hours.”
Want more info about these two restaurants? www.thegladly.com www.thehousebrasserie. com
Left: An irresistable couple of bites of Brown butter tuna with lime, brown butter and raisin relish. Right: Sous Chef Hussein Martin
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Tasting
Tucson
By Diana Brandt Photography by Joseph Riedy
SONORAN DOG FROM EL GUERO CANELO INCLUDES A BACON WRAPPED FRANK, BEANS, GRILLED ONION, FRESH ONION, TOMATO, MAYO, MUSTARD AND , JALAPENO SAUCE.
It’s time for another road trip to a small town with a sizzling food scene. I’ve heard good things about Tucson, and I’m eager to try the unique flavors there. I’ll be staying at the Hacienda Del Sol. A perfect resort to recapture your spirit through relaxation and serenity. I arrive at the resort, it’s mid-June, even though it’s a few degrees cooler in Tucson than Phoenix, I rush into the well airconditioned foyer. The staff welcomes me with kind smiles and guide me to my room. Our Catalina rooms are on the second floor overlooking the golf course. They’re spacious and include a lovely balcony with views that radiate out towards the mountains. I’m excited to experience many of the amenities at the resort. The pool looks inviting, the food sounds top notch, and the horses are down at the stables, calling my name for an early morning ride before the heat becomes unbearable. I’m eager to try the food around town as well, but before I do, I head over to The Grill At Hacienda Del Sol. I sit in a plush chair by the entrance to the restaurant with the Chef, and we speak candidly about his experiences in the kitchen. Chef Bruce Yim heads the kitchen at Hacienda Del Sol. Before that, he worked under French Chef Yannick in some of the most pristine restaurants in D.C. Not only did he learn about food, but he also learned being a Chef wasn’t as glamorous as he imagined. It would be a hard road. “My first Chef used to yell at us all day long,” Chef Yim says. “I mean, nonstop, but we weren’t always the recipient of it. We kept our mouths shut and our heads down, hoping it wasn’t your turn. When it was my turn, I would think of Elvis Costello.” He tells me how different the industry is now and how you can’t be like that in the kitchen anymore. Chef Yim explains why he felt that type of teaching in the kitchen was beneficial to him. “I didn’t understand why he did that until later on in my career. He’s going to build you up to break you down, and that’s what this business is. If you got a great review, you’re going to be on top of the world but don’t let that get to your head. Otherwise, you’re going to collapse when you get a bad review.” He looks out towards the resort. I’m not sure if he’s in deep thought or distracted by the rambunctious cicadas in a nearby tree. He continues. “I’ve gotten both, and I tell my guys that.
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I got a bad review before the days of the internet. This was when everyone got a newspaper, and everyone read it in the morning. I got my bad review in San Francisco, my aunts and uncles, everyone found out.” His expression sobers, and his voice takes on a serious tone as if to give a stern warning. “You still gotta go to work the next day. You gotta make it right and you gotta figure it out. You have to say here’s where this review was correct and here’s where we need to fix things. There are guys that let it go to their head too much, to the point where they think suicide is the only option.” I sense his internal struggle in the kitchen with trying to be more considerate, but at the same time, sharing the experience he was taught from his past mentors. “I’ve flown off the handle, and some people are taken back by it. Being a Chef and manager helped me to be a little more patient. You’ve gotta kick them in the ass and then pat them on the back. I try to be less reactive because if you react negatively, you’re going to get a negative reaction.” I’ve heard other Chefs with the same struggle. Much like parenting, how do we mix past ideas with a new paradigm. Is there a new breed of workers in the kitchen that don’t take kindly to confrontation or criticism? It seems to be a harder adjustment for those that trained with tougher Chefs. No matter the struggles Chef Bruce Yim may have, he runs a tight kitchen, and with that – delicious food. His stern yet passionate approach appears to be working. Chef needs to hurry back into the kitchen, and that’s perfect timing for me to head into town. I’m happy to brave the heat in exchange for some welcoming food and cold frothy beverages. Joey, my photographer, and I map out our food destinations. We agree that our first stop has to serve something cold, so we start at La Garrafa, an ice cream shop that serves unique flavors like tequila, dragon fruit, and even corn. From here, we went to El Guero Canelo for an authentic Sonoran Dog, BOCA Tacos, Presta Coffee, plus other delicious restaurants. The pictures shown say it all. While I wish I could have tried more food in Tucson, my stomach is only so big, and I did end up having to turn in early one night because I ate way too much! I’m pleased to report that Tucson is a great spot for food and the perfect close getaway.
LEFT: CHEF BRUCE YIM, HORSES ON PROPERTY FOR RIDING, ON THIS PAGE: DISHES AT THE GRILL INCLUDE SOFT SHELL CRAB LETTUCE WRAPS, RAW SWEET POTATO SALAD, TACOS
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TAQUERIA PICO DE GALLO IS A GREAT SPOT FOR QUICK EATS, OUR FAVORITES WERE THE FISH TACO AND CARNE
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ERMANOS IS MAKING THEIR OWN KOMBUCHA AND PUTTING OUT AMAZING BEERS AND BITES.
PREP & PASTRY IS A LOCAL FAVORITE AND THE QUALITY OF THEIR FOOD SPEAKS FOR ITSELF. MAKE SURE TO GET THEIR EARLY BECAUSE THERE WILL BE A WAIT.
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FROM TOP TO BOTTOM LEFT TO RIGHT STEAK FROM CHARRO STEAK, HOTEL CONGRESS SIGN, BLOODY MARY FROM CHARRO STEAK, BOCA BALLS FROM BOCA TACOS, SQUEEZE OF LIME FOR BOCA TACOS, HORSES AT HACIENDA DEL SOL, DRINKS INSIDE AN OLD MORGUE AT TOUGH LUCK CLUB, TOUGH LUCK CLUB MENU, LATE NIGHT AT OWLS CLUB
HUB ICE CREAM IS THE PLACE TO BE WHEN THAT SWEET CRAVING HITS!
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Throw Bac a Few
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by Diana Brandt Photography by Joseph Riedy
Did you
Left: Whiskey tastings. Above: Nathan Thompson at the distilery during our tour. Right: Whiskey aging in barrels.
know we have our own
whiskey makers in Tucson? Hamilton Distillers makes top-notch Whiskey, and if you don’t believe me, Esquire just named their Whiskey Del Bac Dorado one of the best in the country. While we were visiting, we had the opportunity to tour the Whiskey Del Bac facility, and get a behind the scenes look with Nathan Thompson. He went through it all, from the start of the process to a quick tasting. If you’ve ever wanted to know everything about making whiskey, he’s the person to ask. He has an abundance of knowledge on this fine art. For the first 15 minutes of our tour, Nathan gave a technical yet fascinating explanation about fermentation, stills, hearts, and boilers. Especially interesting were the blending tanks, making of the cuts, barreling, and aging the whiskey. Nathan says one run of whiskey can yield about 160 gallons. When the temperature rises, it’s the ethanol that adds the sweetness. This is when they start making cuts, without getting too technical, a cut refers to the alcohol you keep and the alcohol you throw out or re-distill. “It really comes down to those cuts,” says Nathan. “What makes it in the barrel and what stays. The flavor comes down to your palate, your nose and sensory, feeling it, and touching it. We have a particular way that we do it and it seems to be working out so far.” After the cuts, they’ve got a whiskey that’s about 70% alcohol, so 140 proof. “We pump it into a blending tank to add water to it to get us to 120 proof. That’s
what we barrel on. It goes in clear and still kind of funky but tasty and sweet. How we time the cuts help with the aging process and interact with the wood and at the end of the day, make a flavorful whiskey.” Whiskey Del Bac only uses all American white oak for their barrels, and until recently, virgin oak. They use mostly 15 gallons, which speeds up the process. A mature whiskey, ready for consumption, takes eight months to a year. Nathan tells me that their next goal is to transition to 30-gallon barrels, and then to 53-gallons. A 30-gallon barrel will take longer to properly age, about a year and eight months, and a 53-gallon barrel can take over two years to age, but this added time brings depth to the flavor. “There’s also a difference in taste,” he adds. “Because there’s more time with the wood and slower extraction. I feel that it would create a whiskey you could go deeper with, it would be subtle though.” For now, the 15-gallon barrels have treated them well, and Nathan has started a new blending practice to help create larger cask flavor. “We’ve got the whiskey to mimic larger casks by blending it from larger casks and second barrels. Second barrels are barrels that have already been filled once, and now they are being used a second time around. The color is different, and it takes a lot longer to age, so it takes about a year and five months to be able to use it as a blending tool. It’s yielding a more sophisticated whiskey.” Nathan’s tone is even keeled during the tour, but you can tell there’s a tinge of excitement in his voice when he talks about their experimentations. “We’ve started some new things this year like using these Madera barrels, and those are already starting to taste amazing. We also have a small amount that we’ve aged and finished in some Calvados barrels from France, so apple brandy. That was a total experiment that turned out great! It did go through an awkward phase, but after a year of finishing in the barrels, it really did turn out fantastic. We just picked up some bourbon barrels too.” The whole process is fascinating and can be manipulated to create an array of different products. Each brand is unique with a specific method to process and craft the final product. With great timing, skill, and luck one can create a signature taste or a breakaway flavor from a regular brand.
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No Travel Necessary You’ll find this resort in Arizona’s backyard
by Stephanie Sparer Photography by Joseph Riedy
AVOCADO TOAST: FRIED EGG, LEMON PRESERVES, CRESS
Bone-in kurobota pork chop, black bean puree, melted pepper and house bacon sauce, Chef Adam Sheff
Tucked on the grounds of the
Andaz Hotel between perfectly manicured resort lawns, views of Camelback Mountain, and a gigantic pool sits Weft & Warp; a fusion of Sonoran tradition and modern cuisine in what the Andaz warmly refers to as ‘The Guest House.’ If it’s a vacation from the everyday that you need, look no further. The Andaz Hotel is set back from Scottsdale Road, letting you dodge the hustle and bustle of Real Life with a gorgeous desert landscape. Weft & Warp is the main restaurant and features a friendly living room atmosphere that feels cozy. It’s dotted with Arizona-themed knick knacks that emphasize executive Chef Adam Sheff’s mission to weave Arizona culture into a contemporary Sonoran menu. No pun intended. “Even the name, Weft & Warp, is actually about weaving,” says Sheff. “It’s a very not straight way of saying we’re trying to be part of the community. I want the food to feel like it has a sense of place, that it belongs here.” While not native to Arizona, New York transplant Chef Adam has a great respect for the Spanish, Mexican, and Native American cultures that inform Arizona cuisine. His menu offers fresh takes on local flavors, like a bone-in pork chop with an unexpected purée of black bean. He takes pleasure in serving familiar, comforting flavors of the southwest presented in new and exciting ways. “It would pang me to insult people,” explains Chef Adam. “There’s some responsibility to take [the culture] seriously.” But Chef Adam found that uncovering Arizona culture isn’t always that easy. “It’s not very well documented,” he says. “I wanted to make sure I was giving it the proper honor and respect it deserves.” This took Sheff on a cultural
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expedition to find out more about the Grand Canyon State. He pored over books, talked to people at markets and connected with local farmers and producers. “I came to realize that Arizona is really a melting pot of cultures and history,” he says. His Arizona research is now used throughout his culinary program to create an array of bright and surprising dishes like taking one of Arizona’s 5 C’s, cattle, in the form of a grilled hanger steak, and serving it with a charred eggplant purée. “I don’t feel like we are doing something that hasn’t been done here before, but I want everything that we do to feel like it’s meant to be here.” Chef Adam has hidden Arizona ingredients in nearly every dish on the Weft & Warp menu, which changes seasonally. Over the summer, Chef Adam featured a watermelon salad with a local Crow’s Dairy Goat Cheese and a braised lamb belly accompanied by a citrus (another 5 C) and olive salad tossed with a butter lettuce dressing. Yes, at Weft & Warp your salad is tossed in lettuce. “I like to find out the quintessential food [of an area]. That really lets you know where you are,” Chef Adam explains, “Food is very personal to me, that’s why it was so important to me to do the work to know that I was going to get as close to doing this right as possible.” It’s more than just right, it’s a delicious tribute to the flavors of the southwest. You can escape to the oasis that is Weft & Warp, located in your own backyard at 6114 N. Scottsdale Road Scottsdale, Arizona 85253.
“I don’t feel like we are doing something that hasn’t been done here before, but I want everything that we do to feel like it’s meant to be here.” Below: Interior space in restaurant by private dining space. Right: Grilled Hangar Steak with charred eggplant puree, scallion vinagrette, roasted tomatoes
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Gallo CARNE ASADA
LA CHAROLA
VEGETABLE
HORCHATA
Blanco New Kid On The Block by Diana Brandt Photography by Joseph Riedy AL PASTOR
DEL MAR
CHIPS
We were so ready for Gallo Blanco to find a new home and now it’s open for everyone to enjoy again. You’ll find this sweet little spot in the Historic Garfield District in Downtown Phoenix. Might I suggest pleasing your sweet tooth by ordering the churros for dessert. galloblancocafe.com 928 E Pierce St, Phoenix, AZ
Anatomy of La Garrafa in Tucson
Photograph by Joseph Riedy
Tajin
ta Margari Ice Cream
Juice n o m Le
Send your favorite menu item to arizonafoodie@outlook.com with the subject “Anatomy Of.” If we feature that dish, you’ll win a $50 gift card to the restaurant.
MARCH 3 & 4 DESERT BOTANICAL GARDEN
CULINARY C LASSIC Arizona's premiere celebration of local culinary culture.
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