AZWINE - Beyond the Grape

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July - October 2015 $3.95

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the Grape – A story of one vineyard’s efforts to enhance its community through the lens of sustainability. Story by Lisa Russell, LEED AP, GPAP, Yavapai College Viticulture Lab Assistant Photography by Andrews Photography

I

recently attended a guided vineyard tour at Page Springs Cellars (PSC) led by winemaker-owner

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Eric Glomski, and accompanied by members of his staff, Marissa and Luke. Located just south of Sedona within a copse of large trees and with Oak Creek running through the site, this vineyard is a gift to the senses. I listened to Eric as he described his family’s ceremony of planting native trees every year on the anniversary of the vineyard’s establishment, and I began to understand that this is much more than a grape-growing and winemaking venture – it is a practice of sustainability on many levels. Established in 2004, PSC now spans 23 acres in Cornville and has become a sanctuary where visitors can sample the wine, get a massage, attend a yoga class or simply sit by the creek while having a bite to eat. There’s a sense of place, of community, at PSC that has been nurtured throughout the years by Eric, his family and

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their employees. There is a palpable respect for community and a belief in sustaining the land not only for today, but also for future generations. As noted ecologist Aldo Leopold once said, “That land is a community is the basic concept of ecology, but that the land is to be loved and respected is an extension of ethos.” PSC’s approach to sustainability is not prescribed. The staff is not viewing a checklist or pursuing an eco-label to tout their initiatives; rather, it’s their ethos, their overarching business philosophy, which strives to balance environmental stewardship, community and fair treatment of their employees. “It really comes down to being a good neighbor and member of our community,” stated Jeff Hendricks, former Director of Vineyard Operations for PSC (2011-15) and now part owner of Chateau Tumbleweed. “It’s about the little things that have long-term effects. We don’t base our decisions primarily on budget, but rather on the impacts of our decisions that increase the health and longevity of our vineyards.”

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To provide a reference point, the USDA defines sustainable agriculture as an integrated system of plant and animal production practices that will, over the long term: • “Satisfy human food and fiber needs; • Enhance environmental quality and the natural resource base upon which the agricultural economy depends; • Make the most efficient use of nonrenewable resources and on-farm resources to integrate, where appropriate, natural biological cycles and controls; • Sustain the economic viability of farm operations; • Enhance the quality of life for farmers and society as a whole.” To encapsulate the above, sustainability and sustainable agriculture typically refers to environmental stewardship, economic viability and social equity – the “three Es.” Sustainable agriculture can, and often will, include organic or biodynamic farming practices, yet it takes a more comprehensive approach that also embraces elements beyond what is included in organic and biodynamic practices. Some of these elements are water conservation, energy conservation, air quality, social equity, fruit quality, composting, recycling and reuse, waste minimization, environmentally preferred purchasing, and economic viability. One could think of sustainable agriculture as the overarching concept wherein organic and biodynamic agricultural practices are subsets. The USDA’s National Organic Certification Program, launched

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formally in 2000, is a set of guidelines that does not allow for synthetic pesticides or nonorganic chemicals to be used, and it provides farmers (and vineyard managers) with natural alternatives to soil enrichment, weed and pest control, and disease management. This is an eco-label that is awarded to qualifying vineyards and farms by a third-party auditor, and it must be renewed annually. Biodynamic farming looks at a vineyard as a closed loop – a mini ecosystem. Developed by Rudolf Steiner in the 1920s, this method does not allow for synthetic pesticides or nonorganic chemicals to be utilized. Additionally, biodynamic farming practices plant and prune on a schedule determined by the phases of the moon, employ the use of insectaries to control pests, and create compost teas and other natural preparations to promote microorganisms and enrich the soil. Steiner postulated that farms should exist as an integrated entity in both their physical and cosmic environments to ensure health, balance and sustainability. Soil health is a critical component of biodynamic farming.

Page Springs Cellars’ sustainability practices currently in place: Energy Efficiency and Conservation

• One of the first wineries in Arizona to install solar panels in 2014. • Generate onsite energy through their 365 panel solar array. • Total system size of 92.8 kilowatts; each panel generates 255 watts and is expected to produce 156,000 Kwh of energy per year. • Produces 85 percent of their energy needs. • Added bonus of providing customers shaded parking.

Water Conservation

• Drip irrigation used for vineyard irrigation. Can be timed, very directed and reduces water use.

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Hendricks went on to say that PSC’s sustainability initiatives are developed and implemented through collaboration and research. When asked what resources he uses to collect data for decision-making, he indicated that he finds appropriate solutions in various methodologies such as the USDA’s National Organic Program and Rudolf Steiner’s principles of biodynamic farming. But, let’s pause here. There is a lot of confusion out there about the various terms used when talking about sustainable vineyard management and sustainable agriculture in general. What is sustainable agriculture, anyway? And, what’s the difference between the United States Department of Agriculture’s National Organic Certification Program, the practice of biodynamic farming, and sustainable agriculture? These terms often are used synonymously and although there are some overlaps within these methodologies, there are some significant differences. Sustainability is a complex subject and if you were to ask 20 people what their definitions of sustainability were, you would get 20 different answers. This is due in part to the complex nature of sustainability and the difference of opinions as to what is sustainable or not from both NGOs (non-government organizations) and for-profit organizations alike.

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• Irrigation amounts are scheduled using evapotranspiration and observing vine stress only deliver andevapotranspiration use specific amounts • Irrigation amounts are to scheduled using andof water that the vines require to maintain balance. observing vine stress to only deliver and use specific amounts of

water that the vines require to maintain balance.

Soil Conservation • Looks at alternative methods of amending soils and maintaining Soil Conservation

soil health, only utilizing herbicides/pesticides as a last resort. • Looks at alternative methods of amending soils and maintaining • Monitors soil characteristics through regular analysis to improve soil health, only utilizing herbicides/pesticides as a last resort. fertility while minimizing environmental impacts of any offsite • Monitors soil characteristics through regular analysis to improve movement of soil and chemicals. fertility while minimizing environmental impacts of any offsite movement of soil chemicals. Conservation andand Encouragement of Biological Diversity • Restorative verses sustainable approach to vineyard management.

Conservation Encouragement Diversity • Most plantsand on the property are nativeof to Biological Arizona to minimize

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• Restorative water use.verses sustainable approach to vineyard management. • Most plants disruption on the property are native to Arizona to minimize • Minimize of wilderness areas for wildlife when water use. constructing new vineyards. • Minimize disruption of wilderness areas for wildlife when constructing newand vineyards. Social Practices Other Cultural Practices • Equitable treatment of employees. Social Practices and Other Cultural Practices • Purchase products that support local companies. • Equitable of employees. • Manage treatment neighbor relations to mitigate complaints of noise or • Purchase products that support local companies. other issues. • Manage neighbor relations to mitigate complaints of noise or just • Long term view that researches alternatives. Decisions are not other issues. based on price. • In the process growing vegetable and herbs on site toare supply • Long term view of that researches alternatives. Decisions not just theiron restaurant; based price. farm-to-table approach will soon be available. • In the process of growing vegetable and herbs on site to supply 20 their restaurant; farm-to-table approach will soon be available.

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• Investigating the use of Arizona oak for barrels. •• Heavy recycling of materials when possible. Investigating theand usereuse of Arizona oak for barrels. Near the end of our tour, Glomski was describing PSC is • Heavy recycling and reuse of materials when how possible. experimenting with the use of Arizona oak in their barrels, whenishe Near the end of our tour, Glomski was describing how PSC paused and pointed theuse sky. turnedoak to see whatbarrels, was there andhe as I experimenting withtothe ofWe Arizona in their when looked up, I saw a bald eagle circling above. The beauty of that moment paused and pointed to the sky. We turned to see what was there and as I really capped off the experience and confirmed that this is a place where looked up, I saw a bald eagle circling above. The beauty of that moment flora and fauna thrive through PSC’s environmental awareness and really capped off the experience and confirmed that this is a place where stewardship efforts. flora and fauna thrive through PSC’s environmental awareness and Ultimately, Page Springs Cellars is a success story on many stewardship efforts. fronts. They have produced award-winning wines and are Ultimately, Pagevalue Springs Cellars is a success story on many continuing to add to their community. Their sustainability fronts. They have produced award-winning wines and are practices are directly connected to their desires to be a good continuing to add value to their community. Their sustainability neighbor, conserve and restore their vineyard properties, and treat practices are directly their employees fairly.connected to their desires to be a good neighbor, conserve andisrestore their what vineyard properties, and and treat Sustainable agriculture about doing we can, when we can, their employees following a path offairly. continuous improvement. As one of the pioneers Sustainable agriculture is aboutmovement, doing whatRay we can, when we can, and of the contemporary sustainability Anderson, once following a path of continuous improvement. As one of the pioneers said about businesses embarking on the journey of sustainability, they of the contemporary sustainability movement, Ray Anderson, onceis are “doing well by doing good.” I would say that Page Springs Cellars said aboutdoing businesses onSalute! the journey of sustainability, they definitely well byembarking doing good. are “doing well by doing good.” I would say that Page Springs Cellars is Lisa Russell spent 20 years in the retail design industry focused on definitely doing well by doing good. Salute!

sustainable design projects and program development. She is currently Lisa Russell spentand 20 years in the retail design industry focused on studying Viticulture Enology at Yavapai College with the hope of sustainable design projects and program development. She is currently growing a few grapes and someday making a little wine. studying Viticulture and Enology at Yavapai College with the hope of growing a few grapes and someday making a little wine. AZWINE lIfEstylE . com AZWINE lIfEstylE lifestyle . com


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