Spring and "springtime" refer to the season, and also broadly to ideas of rebirth, renewal and regrowth. After nearly two years as Executive Director of the Arizona Wine Growers Association, I decided to step down. The decision to do so was a difficult one. I really enjoyed my position and I felt a true sense of accomplishment from it. In the beginning, both of my positions, as Executive Director and Publisher, were symbiotic. With the amazing growth of the Arizona wine industry and the AWGA, the two positions became two full time jobs. I finally had to pick one. The last couple of years have been amazing and I'm so proud to have been a part of an incredible organization that represents the winemakers and grape growers of Arizona. I had the opportunity to work alongside some very special people. I want to take a moment to give a special "thanks" to Todd Bostock who served as president during my term. Todd had a vision of what he wanted to accomplish and the drive to make it happen. With Todd's commitment to the industry, we saw a number of key achievements happen. I also want to recognize Todd's wife, Kelly, and the extended Bostock and Hearn families, for their effort and involvement that helped make the AWGA so successful over the last few years. The AWGA has hired Advanced Business Professionals led by Patti King to act as Executive Director. I worked with Patti during the transition and feel confident leaving the position in her capable hands. I timed my departure to coincide with the transition of the Executive Committee, who were elected at our last quarterly meeting in February. I want to welcome Peggy Fiandaca as the new President, John McLoughlin as VP (Verde Valley), Fran Lightly as VP (Sonoita), Robert Carlson as VP (Willcox), Rob Hammelman as Treasurer, Casey Rooney as Secretary and Todd Bostock as Past President. Relinquished of my responsibilities with the AWGA, I feel refreshed and renewed. As spring has finally come, 2011 is looking to be an especially good year for us. Of course with the extra time on my hands, I am going to put more energy into the magazine and continue to work closely with the AWGA to continue to promote Arizona wines. In fact, our new website should be live the time you read this. Spring also means planting season for new grape vines. Josh sold another 20 acres down on the Willcox Bench to Mark Beres and Marc Moeller of Saguaro Canyon Vineyards who will be planting this season. Kim and Phil Asmundson of Asmundson Family Vineyards will also be planting their land on the Willcox Bench this year. The more vines the merrier! We need all we can get to keep up with the demand for Arizona wine.
Arizona Vines & Wines PUBLISHED BY
Arizona Vines & Wines, LLC
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Tom Pitts, Steve Ayers, Tim Mueller, Greg Gonnerman, Peter Lechtenbohmer, Rhonni Moffitt, Deb Wahl, Christina Barrueta, Tim Hilcove, Anthony DeMuro, Thomas Ale Johnson, Stacey Wittig
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
JeromePhotos.com, Donna Chesler, Rhonni Moffitt, Curt Dunham, Tim Hilcove, Stacey Wittig, Marble Street Studio, Thomas Ale Johnson, Canelo Hills Winery, Becky Limberg, Michell Jonas Photography, Anthony DeMuro, Rod Keeling, Darrylee Cohen
ADVERTISING SALES
sales@arizonavinesandwines.com
SUBSCRIPTIONS $19.95 Annual Subscription Four quarterly issues subscriptions@arizonavinesandwines.com CONTACT THE PUBLISHER
Josh & Rhonni Moffitt (480) 306-5623 publisher@arizonavinesandwines.com
Josh & Rhonni Moffitt
ABOUT THIS MONTH’S COVER The cover photo was taken on August 23rd, 2009 at Dragoon Mountain Vineyards during harvest by Ron Chilston. You can see more of Ron’s photos at JeromePhotos.com.
4
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
NOW AVAILABLE ON NEWSSTANDS AT THESE FINE LOCATIONS
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
8 GRAPE PERSPECTIVES
Unique Perspectives on Wine in Arizona by Tom Pitts
10 FEATURED WINEMAKER John McLoughlin by Steve Ayers
54 WINE ABOUT TOWN by Tim Hilcove
56 AZ WINE SUPPORTERS Support these supporters of Arizona wine
12 THE STORY BEHIND THE WINE 58 CHEF’S TABLE Canelo Hills Sparkling Wine by Tim Mueller
Anthony DeMuro of Different Pointe of View
14 HOME WINEMAKING
60 VAGABONDING LULU
16 COMMON GROUND
64 POINT OF BREW
18 UN-WINE-DING
65 FEATURED BREWERY
30 TRAVELING TO THE KEYS
66 QUICK REFERENCE
46 RESTAURANT SPOTLIGHT
TOUR WINE COUNTRY 20 NORTHERN ARIZONA
Country Wines for Desert Dwellers By Greg Gonnerman by Peter Lechtenbohmer
by Rhonni Moffitt by Deb Wahl
Crescent Moon by Christina Barrueta
48 EVENTS CALENDAR Wine Related Fun Around the State
Travels to New Mexico Wine Country By Stacey Wittig By Thomas Ale Johnson
Oak Creek Brewery
Easy listing of all Arizona wineries
32 SONOITA/ELGIN 40 SOUTHEASTERN ARIZONA
Arizona Stronghold Vineyards in Willcox
GRAPE PERSPECTIVES:
The Verde Valley Wine Consortium
I
Article by Tom Pitts, President Verde Valley Wine Consortium & Owner of Belgian Jennie’s Bordello Bistro & Pizzeria in Jerome
Photo courtesy of Donna Chesler
went to school in Tucson and then began the process of had been planted on campus. In October of 2010, the college wandering around the planet re-inventing myself before approved a two year certificate program in viticulture, the first returning to Arizona to semi-retire and only program of its kind in the state. in 2005. An inveterate wine enthusiast, I Next: an on-campus winery and enology joined numerous wine and food societies. program. I served as a Bailli (Chapter President) Last year, the University of Arizona’s Erik and National Board Member for the Glenn began conducting an evaluation (Paris-based) Confrérie de la Chaîne des of the economic contributions being Rôtisseurs. I was a Cellarmaster for the made by the Verde Valley wine industry. (London-based) International Wine and While the final study has not quite been Food Society. I was actively involved with completed as this is being written, he the Commanderie des Bordeaux, the has shared some data with us. All figures Jurade de Saint-Émilion, the Confrérie refer to the fiscal year ending June 30, Saint-Etienne (Alsace), the Confrérie des 2010. Local wineries, vineyards and Vignerons de Saint-Vincent (Burgundy), tasting rooms employ 124 people with the Brotherhood of the Knights of the a payroll over $2 million. Their direct Vine (U.S.), and a number of others, economic output is about $5.5 million. including Italian and German societies. I Total spending with other private firms lived in Italy for two years and have spent totaled more than $6.5 million during time in wine regions in France, Italy, FY 2009-10 with about $3 million of that Germany, Australia, and throughout business-to-business spending for capital North America. I have taught wine expenditures. Verde Valley winemakers courses, written numerous articles about made more than $81,500 in charitable wine, and have provided marketing contributions during this time period. consultation for importers, distributors, The total of all economic output in and retail chains. I have served on many Yavapai and Coconino Counties related tasting panels. I like good wine and I have Of course, none of this is possible if the quality of to Verde Valley wineries/vineyards/ been fortunate to taste a great deal of it the wine won’t hold up to scrutiny. It does. tasting rooms, their suppliers and their from the finest wine producers all over employees (i.e. the sum of the direct, the world, visiting many of their vineyards, wineries, and cellars. indirect and induced impacts) is almost $8.5 million. Value When I moved to Jerome, I assumed that I would leave that part added, a measure of net economic contribution, is over $3.9 of my life behind. I am happy to say that I was wrong. million. Another $870,000 in economic activity was generated in the other 13 Arizona counties. An estimated $9.75 million I joined the Jerome Chamber of Commerce and became a principal dollars in additional economic activity was generated in Yavapai in the Sedona Verde Valley Tourism Council (SVVTC). I became and Coconino Counties due to Verde Valley wine sales and a Director of the Verde Valley Regional Economic Organization Verde Valley wine tourism that take place outside the wineries (VVREO), our regional economic development group. With and tasting rooms. The total of all economic activity in Arizona the City of Cottonwood taking the initial lead, the Verde Valley related to Verde Valley wine for this time period is estimated to be Wine Consortium was formed in June of 2008, as a trade group over $19.1 million, and growing rapidly. dedicated to the growth of the industry in our area. I was selected Of course, none of this is possible if the quality of the wine won’t to chair the group, with VVREO serving as an incubator. hold up to scrutiny. It does. Verde Valley wines have been doing We met with state, county, and local officials to begin the education extremely well in competitions all over the country. In fact, the process and raise awareness of the new industry. With SVVTC we biggest need at the moment is for more Arizona-grown fruit. The worked to increase our visibility. As a result, the Arizona Office demand is far exceeding the supply and, with the necessary lead of Tourism now recognizes Verde Valley wineries (through the time to bring vineyards into production, it will be quite a while Consortium) as a “Destination Driver” bringing visitors to the before a sufficient amount of new production will be able to meet region. that demand. We began working with Yavapai College and less than a year I’m pleased that the Verde Valley Wine Consortium has been able after our first Consortium meeting the first course began. A year to contribute to this growth process. (And here I thought I’d left later seven wine classes had sold out and the first acre of vines the wine world behind.)
“
8
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
”
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
FEATURED WINEMAKER:
John McLoughlin
Hands on, head first, self-made winemaker By Steve Ayers
I
n John McLoughlin’s world there is only one way to make wine—sleeves rolled up, head first, no looking back. His is a hands-on approach born of an education that came not so much from a classroom or from books, but from the ground up. It is the kind of institution that does not issue a diploma—unless a pair of claret stained and oft-times bleeding hands constitutes a certificate of competency.
River, one that has been around almost since the time his Germanic ancestors began their march south to the gates of Rome. In fact it was there, at his family’s vineyard on the hills outside Boppard, Germany, that McLoughlin’s wine education began—where he “got the bug,” when he was just 16 years old.
JeromePhotos.com
McLoughlin, owner of Bitter Creek Winery and Jerome Winery, along with the Dribble Creek wholesale label and Arizona’s largest vineyard, is a dyed-in-thefingers purist when it comes to his passion.
After nearly four years soaking up the region’s notorious sunny weather, along with what was to be learned from the family winemakers, he developed a deep appreciation for how things should be done. Content with that understanding he returned to the states to serve in the military, receive a degree in history and gain some business sense. A flexible schedule in life allowed him to pursue his love of wine in a manner most have never experienced, much less tried. He began trading his off time for a hands-on education.
“Just because you own a football team doesn’t make you a football player,” he is fond of saying, “There John McLaughlin & Bitter Creek Winery Label Artist Rick Wyckoff are a lot of guys out there who like “I would go to California for months to think they are winemakers, who at a time to work in the vineyards and wineries. I soon found that when you donate put their names on their bottles, but they ain’t. If you are your time, you can get work wherever you want.” going to do it, if you are going to claim it’s your own, damn it, be involved.” Wherever turned out to be Paso Robles, Temecula, Lodi, Napa and some His is a take-no-prisoners approach. Fortes fortuna adiuvat, fortune favors the bold (as well as those who don’t mind getting their hands dirty). Like the vines he grows outside of Willcox, every one of which he has had his hands on, McLoughlin comes from certified winemaking stock. A second generation American, his family still owns a vineyard on the Rhine
miscellaneous lesser stops in between.
“I had a little trailer I would just tow around. Most the winery owners would let me leave it on their property. That way they knew I’d come back the next year.” McLoughlin learned his trade working at boutique family wineries, industrial giants making house brands and at a co-op or two that catered to the weekend warrior. “I got to learn a lot from a lot of different winemakers. I was exposed to different theories and opinions—including those guys who didn’t do anything unless the moon was just right—but perhaps the best thing was I got to see was a lot of mistakes.” Fourteen years ago, he bought an old house in Jerome and began restoring it. As he puttered about town enjoying its unique charm he saw the potential for a winery. The bug returned.
JeromePhotos.com
Over the years, when he was not peddling insurance or pondering the subtleties of oenology or viticulture, McLoughlin managed bars, everything from the Pointe Resort in Phoenix to the traveling beer halls of NASCAR. Given his background and his passion, he drifted into the wine business, but only feet first to begin with.
McLaughlin’s Dragoon Mountain Vineyard at Harvest
10
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
“I thought Jerome would be a cool place to put in a winery—sort of a weekend thing.” It turned out to be a great place to build a winery and it soon took on a life of its own. About the same time he opened the Jerome Winery, he purchased 340 acres of farmland in Kansas Settlement, just outside of Willcox and began planting a vineyard. The vineyard started with 30 acres of Zin, Cab and Merlot. Today he has about 120 acres planted. As the vineyard grew, the Jerome Winery had its ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
A sense of ehrgeiz: The winemaker’s mom
JeromePhotos.com
The Germans have a word that in many ways describes the character of their culture. The word is ehrgeiz. Literally it means the hording of honor. It translates into English as ambition. But in a real sense it is more akin to a profound and defining need to get it right— whatever “it” may be.
Joan Parham & Marge Black-Graziano harvesting at the vineyard
own metamorphosis, and following a brief dispute with his landlord, a new building was purchased and a new winery was born—Bitter Creek. And he has since added the Dribble Creek label, a wholesale-only brand that is gaining a following among restaurants and boutique wine stores. Individually, they each reflect their creator’s hands-on style—collectively they speak of his business philosophy. Jerome Winery offers strictly varietals. Bitter Creek is all blends. For McLoughlin, it was a decision to give folks what they want while being true to his own taste. “Varietals have a specific characteristic. Their flavors come right out. They spike. With blends, which I prefer, the flavor profile is more like a bell curve, in which one flavor passes you onto the next and the next. Like a symphony, they finish as softly as they begin.” McLaughlin’s opinions on wine don’t stop when he is done bottling. And as a newly elected vice president of the Arizona Winegrowers Association, he is intent on taking the Arizona wine business along with him, on a ride he says is only beginning. “We are making some outstanding wines in here in Arizona that are starting to get people’s attention. We have plenty of talented winemakers. The next step is to grow the business to a size where it becomes a legitimate industry. We are on the cusp of being a powerhouse.” Not one to rest on his accomplishments, McLaughlin says that 120 acres of vines and three brands is not where he wants to stop. It’s not in his nature. “I like challenges. If there are two roads that would take you from point “A” to point “B,” I would take the one over the mountain—the rough and rocky one. That’s just who I am. I like doing things no one has done and going places no one has been.”
430 Clark Street, Jerome (928) 639-9067 www.JeromeWinery.com ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
Marge Black-Graziano was raised with a defining sense of her German heritage. A first generation American, she was nevertheless brought up with a profound and defining ehrgeiz by her immigrant parents, Johanus and Paula Heinemann, while growing up in Chicago. “My father drilled it into us—if you are going to do something, do it right and do it right the first time. It makes no sense to do something a second time that you could have done right to begin with.” She says, “We were also taught the value of ethics, the importance of hard work and an appreciation for the earth.” When Marge grew up and had children of her own, those same principles were passed on. But she is not so sure they had to be taught to her son, John McLoughlin. “He was like that from the start. Smart, driven and with many natural talents. He is the smartest person I have ever met. It is no surprise to me he has had the success he has had in such a short period of time.” Outside of being the winemaker’s mom, she played a pivotal role in the McLaughlin’s decision to begin his winemaking career in Jerome. “Around 2001 I came to Jerome, fell in love with an old house, bought it and began renovating it. John came up to help, fell in love with Jerome and bought his own place,” says Marge. She has worked side by side with McLoughlin from the beginning, dedicating most of her time to working on the family’s 320-acre farm near Willcox. The rest of her family is also involved in the business. Her daughter Melanie, manages the Jerome Winery. Her son-in-law Isaiah manages Bitter Creek. And her six-year-old granddaughter Maggie, she says, has already announced she is going to be a winemaker. Maggie can’t wait until her feet reach the pedals so she can drive the tractor all on her own. As proud as she is of her son for his business accomplishments, she insist it is the person she sees him as that makes her the proudest. “He is an incredible winemaker. He has a nose and a palate much like my father’s. He has a passion for what he is doing and for the Arizona wine industry. He knows the potential and he won’t stop until he has taken it where it needs to go. But it isn’t just for him. He wants everyone to succeed. He doesn’t see other winemakers as competition but as partners. What he does, he does for everyone. That’s why I’m so proud of him.”
240 Hull Avenue, Jerome (928) 634-7033 www.BitterCreekWinery.com ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
11
The Story Behind the Wine
Canelo Hills Vineyard & Winery - Sparkling Wine MÉthode Champagnoise Article by Tim Mueller
I
Courtesy of Canelo Hills Winery
love the French accent aiguë. I love using it whenever I describe how to make traditional Champagne method sparkling wine – the Méthode Champagnoise. I also love the chemistry and added complexity of the process and, of course, the finished product. Wine-making mythology has it that monks in northern France stumbled on the process of carbonating a wine while trying to make respectable wine out of unripe grapes. The growing season in the district of Champagne is just too short to faithfully ripen Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and Pinor Meunier so it was necessary to add sugar to the base wine to get a decent amount of alcohol into it. In the process of bottling this sweetened wine before it had completely fermented, a second fermentation occurred inside the closed bottle. The carbon dioxide was trapped in the bottle and voilà - sparkling wine. As technologic refinements came along to produce hefty bottles that could withstand enormous pressure, yeasts that can survive in the nasty environment inside one of these bottles, cheap labor to turn and wiggle the bottles during riddling, and freezing techniques to facilitate the process of disgorgement, the mythical monk named Dom Pérignon turned a lousy, acidic, thin wine into a magical product reserved for royalty. I had made several tasty small batches of traditional Méthode Champagnoise sparkling wine prior to my first attempt in 2006 to make our Canelo Hills Vineyard and Winery sparkling Chardonnay. That year I had some not quite ripe grapes from what was then Dos Cabezas Vineyard – intentionally picked early at Brix 18/19. It made a brilliant, acidic, crisp base wine. I had a heck of a time locating champagne bottles for less then $5 each, so I ended up purchasing some cider/champagne bottles from a hobby beer and wine shop. Over a two week period of time I “built up” the specialty yeast using the recipe given to me by my cousin Michael Manz, then wine maker at Mountain Dome in Spokane, Washington. To the
Mueller Family: Joan, Kathryn & Tim
12
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
base wine I added an exactingly calculated amount of sugar and the built up yeast, stirred vigorously and then bottled it, closing each one with a crown cap (AKA beer cap). This was to be my very first commercial sparkling wine. Was I excited? You bet. As the days passed I imagined the little yeasties inside those beefy bottles munching the sugar, converting it into alcohol and CO2. The carbon dioxide gas was dissolving in the wine, making those teeny tiny bubbles for which the finest Champagne is known. About a week later, as we entered the winery, Joan said, “Tim, I smell wine, do you?” I did, but said, “no.” Why? Denial is a powerful tool. It protects many tiny minds from profound truths. Another week passed and Joan again challenged
“
Any winemaker worth their tannin has wasted wine stories. This is mine.
”
my reality. The evidence was unmistakable. The winery smelled like wine. Well, smelled like more wine then it should have smelled. The cause? A bad, lousy, miscalculated, incorrect matching of the crown cap and the top of the bottle. Closer inspection of the pile of sparkling wine bottles revealed a very vigorous and happy foaming puddle of very strong yeast and sweet Chardonnay at the bottom of the holding bin. Each bottle had opened itself thanks to the pressure of the second fermentation and the misguided choice of closures. 46 cases lost. Every winemaker worth their tannin has wasted wine stories. This is mine. Fast forward a year or two. I have worked out the engineering, perfected the technique, resigned myself to paying beaucoup for the right bottles, learned that there are several sizes of crown caps, invented a small volume technique for riddling and learned to wear diver’s gloves when disgorging. So far Canelo Hills Vineyard and Winery Sparkling wines are the only Méthode Champagnoise sparkling wines made in Arizona. They are very tasty. If you also love the accent aiguë, you can come purchase bottles of Sparkling Chardonnay with “é” prominently featured on the label.
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
Country Wines for Desert Dwellers By Greg Gonnerman, AZWineMakers.com
W
ine can be made from almost anything. Most frequently though it’s made from grapes (Vitis Vinifera in particular) since under the best of circumstances they have all the right stuff. They have just enough sugar to yield about 12.5% alcohol and enough acid to be properly balanced and to ward off infections before and after fermentation. They also have a fruit flavor that’s not overpowering once the sugar is fermented out. Fruits that can make a decent dry wine are among the best candidates for wine making. Some purists object to calling non-grape fermented beverages wine. Every major dictionary though includes a definition for wine such as “the fermented juice of a plant product.” Wine need not be made just from grapes, but traditionally these non-grape wines are called country wines. Many commercial wine makers got their start making wines from various fruits. Arizona’s very own Eric Glomski started with apple wine from fruit he found growing locally. Of course your choices are only limited by what can be found in your grocer’s freezer, but it’s always more satisfying to make wine from fruit that you’ve grown or at least harvested. Wine makers in the desert who want to branch out beyond grapes have several options to consider. One of the best alternatives to grapes for wine making is undoubtedly the blackberry. Many award winning port style wines have been made from this fruit. But will it grow in the desert? Several years ago the University of Arizona conducted a study at the Yuma Agricultural Experiment Station concerning the viability of commercial blackberry production. They tried a number of blackberry cultivars from Arkansas and Texas. The Arkansas varieties didn’t fare so well, but the Texas cultivars thrived. Womack and Rosborough did particularly well. Several experimental plantings of these varieties in central Arizona have been successful as well. Unfortunately though these varieties are hard to come by in Arizona and may need to be ordered from a Texas nursery.
A companion tree is recommended for pollination and Dorsett is a good choice. Elderberries are great for wine making, unfortunately they are virtually impossible to grow in the lowest desert locations. They thrive through most of the year only to die back to almost nothing by mid summer. It’s just too hot for them here, but if you live at a higher elevation they are worth considering. The abundance of prickly pear in the Sonoran desert might inspire one to make a prickly pear wine. It’s certainly possible, but there are some words of caution to consider. The first consideration is mucilage, a slimy viscous substance that cactus have in abundance. This can complicate the whole wine making process. Simply racking (transferring) a wine from one vessel to another can be difficult with mucilage present, and you wouldn’t want to drink prickly pear wine until this has settled out. The mouth feel is strange to say the least. Multiple bentonite finings and extended bulk aging may be needed to settle out the mucilage. With that issue addressed you will be left with a wine with a very strange flavor profile but a vibrant red color. This wine might be best used to make wine spritzers by mixing it with a clear soda. Given these issues, the best use for prickly pear fruit is probably in making jelly. As discussed earlier, wine can be made from almost anything. There are probably several good possibilities that we’ve missed in this article; plants that do well in the desert and produce fruit that’s ideal for wine making. Hopefully this article inspires you to make or at least try wine from something other than grapes.
Go to any garden center in Phoenix or Tucson and ask for fruit tree recommendations. One of the first trees they’ll recommend is the pomegranate. It does well here producing excellent fruit in the fall. With a character somewhere between Beaujolais Nouveau and fruit punch, pomegranate wines are an excellent summertime beverage. It does take a bit of work though to extract the juice from the fruit. The juice is actually held in juice-seed sacs inside of a pithy membrane. Another good fruit tree is the Anna apple. Most apple varieties wouldn’t do well here since we don’t have sufficiently cold winter weather, but this Israeli variety thrives in the desert. The fruit is large and greenish-yellow in appearance. The flavor is a little tart but this variety should be excellent for making cider.
14
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
Blackberries are an excellent alternative to grapes. Greg Gonnerman is an amateur grape grower and winemaker in Mesa, Arizona, and he’s also a founding member of AZ Wine Makers (www.azwinemakers.com)
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
Common Ground By Peter Lechtenbohmer
E
very time you get a group of table grape growers or wine grape growers together, eventually the subject of soils, water, and climate is talked about. When you deal with the cultivation of the vines, these three subjects are very relevant. In this article I’d like to talk about soils as a grower.
of the highest regions in the west and similar to the New Mexico and Arizona areas. Although the Lubbock landscape is generally “pan-flat,” its steady tilt to the north gives the region as much elevation difference as the famous Stag’s Leap district that put California Cabernets on the map.
Many years ago when I grew table grapes, the main concern was to retain soil moisture; therefore a clay soil was preferred. Sandy soils caused problems: high evaporation and rapid percolation, smaller berry size and stress on the vines. Sandy soil, however, was ideal for wine grape growers since they wanted smaller berry size and a less dense canopy for good sun and air penetration against rot.
Yes, the “common ground” of warm reddish sandy soil found in a lot of locations in the west brings wine grape growers together......whether it be in Arizona, New Mexico or Texas, all of us start out looking for that reddish sandy soil as our starting point to grow Vinifera vines.
Table grapes are harvested at a much lower brix (% sugar) than wine grapes so a larger canopy is not a quality factor since the harvest can be completed before serious Powdery Mildew or Rot can cause damage to the fruit (green seedless grapes at 19 brix as compared to 24 brix for Syrah wine grapes). At times when my wife and I would be driving along a desert highway, I’d say “See over there! - that would be a good 'bench' against that mountain range to grow a vineyard." Everything would look good at a distance and at times, I would drive over and check it out. One of those times was when we drove down to Elfrida, south of Willcox. I looked towards the old ghost town of Gleason and all the roads running west climbed slowly in elevation up the mountain. We took one of the better roads and drove for about 3 miles. The soil changed from the lower elevation’s brown, clayish soil to a reddish sandy clay loam. Another mile and I was overlooking the valley to the east and I was standing in nothing but a Sonoita sandy clay soil. I went over to a nearby house and had a chat with the people who lived there. I finally asked the question, “Does anybody grow peaches around here?” This is a good question to ask because wherever peaches will grow, Viniferous vines will also grow. “Sure” the man said, “This whole area had peach trees all the way to Elfrida!” I asked what had happened to them. It was the “spring frost” he answered. Unfortunately the frost took the blooms on the trees two years out of four. I knew that fortunately, grapes were more forgiving.
(Peter Lechtenbohmer, now retired, has been a consultant and grown table and wine grapes commercially for 35 years.)
After selling Sweet Sunrise Vineyards on the Willcox Bench, and moving with my wife Judy to central Texas to retire, I discovered that the closest winery and vineyard was less than 30 miles from our home. Brennen Vineyards and Winery, a beautiful 5000 case winery in the northern part of the Texas Hill Country, grew their vines on that same sandy soil. After more research I discovered a large area between the small towns of Hamilton, Gustine and Comanche that were suitable for not only peaches but wine grapes as well. Another large region that will soon be the largest wine grape growing area in Texas will be near Lubbock. It’s an area in west Texas dominated by cotton, corn and milo. At an elevation of 3,300 to 3,700 feet, this high plains area is one
16
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
Un-Wine-ding in the Verde Valley By Rhonni Moffitt Last autumn, Josh and I took the opportunity to get away for the weekend and practice what we preach - enjoy wine country! We stayed at Lo Lo Mai Springs in Cornville. I was blown away by the beauty of this creekside property. We stayed in a two-bedroom cabin, enjoying the amenities of a full kitchen and a private bathroom. For someone a little more adventurous (maybe us on a future trip), Lo Lo Mai also offers RV slips and tent camping spots near the creek. We invited the in-laws over for a barbecue after checking in Friday night. We enjoyed our grilled hot dogs and corn on the cob, paired with a nice selection of Arizona wine, of course. Sitting out back on the patio, we enjoyed stargazing and cozy conversation. We brought the dogs with us on this trip and they absolutely had a blast! Max enjoyed digging in the red dirt and Tazzy went for a swim in Oak Creek to cool off. Covered in dirt, it was obvious that they were in need of this weekend get-away, too! On Saturday, we headed to Clarkdale to catch the Verde Canyon Railroad's Grape Train Escape, featuring Arizona wine. The Grape Train takes off monthly during the summer, featuring wines from around the world, the nation and even a tequila tasting train. This VIP experience included snacks, comfy couch seating, an open air car and, of course, tasty selections of wine. We were joined by Lisa Pender of Pillsbury Wine Co. and the newly opened Rendezvous in Old Town Cottonwood, as well as Dawn Waltman from Verde Valley Olive Oil Traders. We couldn't have asked for better weather and gorgeous views. The train meanders alongside the Verde River to Perkinsville and back. We were treated to historical tidbits, wildlife viewing (elk and eagles) as well as intriguing scenery. The wines we enjoyed were Verde Valley favorites. We started with a Page Springs Cellars 2008 Vino del Barrio Blanca, followed by Oak Creek Vineyard's 2008 Chardonnay. Javelina Leap Merlot was our third round, with Alcantara Vineyard's Confluence II rounding out the end. A special treat was a splash of sparkling wine paired with a chocolate covered strawberry. We rounded out our weekend adventure by taking the "Water to Wine" tour offered by Sedona Adventure Tours. If there is a man who has an affinity for nature, it's owner Richard Lynch. Our tour guide Randy gave us a brief introduction to the kayaks and a quick training on how to navigate the creek. Of course, I quickly forgot everything I learned when we hit the first of the rapids and I almost capsized! It was good for a laugh and a quick second tutorial. A big treat was having owner Richard and his girlfriend Aileen join us. My busy schedule was completely forgotten while we floated down the creek and enjoyed the serenity of this journey. Somehow it always comes back to wine, though, when we encountered wild grapevines on the banks of the river. At the end of the tour, we were joined by Barb, Bob and Brian Predmore, owners of Alcantara for some wine tasting and snacks. Sitting on the patio, overlooking the vineyard, we laughed and shared some fun stories. What a nice ending to a perfect weekend. This is a weekend that I plan to duplicate this year! If you would like to duplicate our weekend, here is some information to help you plan accordingly. Lo Lo Mai Springs - www.LoLoMai.com Verde Canyon Railroad - www.VerdeCanyonRR.com Sedona Adventure Tours - www.SedonaAdventureTours.com
18
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
Alcantara Vineyards Alcantara Vineyards is a dream venture created by Owner Barbara Predmore. Barbara and her husband Bob started the vineyard to provide their family and partners the opportunity to work and develop a vineyard community and winery, making wines that are comparable to the best of California and Europe. Barbara had spent four years of research and diligence using the best consultants from the University of Arizona and UC Davis, as well as support from her family at the noted Martin-Weyrich Vineyards in Central California. Alcantara Vineyard is perched on 87 acres of sloping terrain off the Verde River and Oak Creek. The Tuscan Farmhouse serves as the tasting room, where they host the many friends and guests that visit from around the globe. Check out their “green” winery building when you visit! Explore their website at www.alcantaravineyard.com.
Echo Canyon Jon Marcus, a former attorney from Detroit, bought 32 acres of fertile land just outside Sedona. About 100 years ago, Echo Canyon was home to a farm that produced fruits and vegetables for the mining camps in Jerome. Nestled along the banks of the pristine Oak Creek, the rock-walled vineyards have produced wines that rival the finest made anywhere. Varietals include Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet, Cabernet Franc and Zinfandel. Also check out Jon’s other venture Crop Circle Winery in Willcox. For more info go to www.echocanyonwinery.com.
Caduceus Cellars Maynard James Keenan created this label for his northern Arizona vineyards, Merkin Vineyards. One day while sipping some fine wine on his patio in the hills of Jerome, Arizona, he realized that the climate in the area was similar to the climates where some of his favorite wines were produced. Why not grow a vineyard here? When asked about the type of wine he intended to grow, he answered, “My art and music has been described as ‘thick, dense, rich complex, engaging, emotional, and spiritual,’ by those who are fans. And an ‘acquired taste’ for those kind others who are not.” He felt that Arizona aligned with this description and that they were a match made in heaven. “Surely these qualities will be reflected in the wine that Arizona will present to us”. (Oh, did we forget to mention he is the lead singer for Tool). His wines can be purchased at select retail outlets as well as their tasting room in Jerome. Also available online at www.caduceus.org.
Oak Creek Vineyards Deb Wahl, owner of Oak Creek Vineyards & Winery, has heard many times that “good wine grows on gentle slopes with a river nearby” which is why her vineyard is located near beautiful Sedona, across from Oak Creek. In the higher elevations of the property, they grow Syrah & Merlot and in the lower portion they produce Zinfandel and Chardonnay. There is great sun exposure and currently they have approximately 4000 plants on just over ten acres. They produce full-bodied flavorful reds and lean whites in small batches, giving individual attention to each barrel. Visit www.oakcreekvineyards.net to learn more!
Javelina Leap Vineyard & Winery Javelina Leap Vineyard & Winery is located just ten miles outside the scenic town of Sedona, adjacent to the green belt of lower Oak Creek, across from an Audubon bird sanctuary and state fish hatchery. The property was part of the historic ranches in a valley known as Page Springs for its abundance of natural springs. The estate vineyards are on the slopes of an ancient volcano. These soils lend intense characters of minerals, earth and fruit to the wines produced here. The owners and winemakers Rod and Cynthia Snapp welcome you to their newly remodeled tasting room that is fashioned after a turn of the century western saloon. Many accolades and media attention have been given to the wines they produce here. They ask that you share these handcrafted wines with your friends and loved ones. The tasting room is open daily from 11am till 5pm. For more information visit their web site at www.javelinaleapwinery.com.
Juniper Well Ranch Vineyards Juniper Well Ranch and Vineyards is located at the base of Granite Mountain in Skull Valley just minutes from Prescott. Their delicious handmade wines will delight you as you enjoy a glass on their Fiesta Patio or a bottle in a charming and private log cabin in front of a cozy fire. Their high altitude vineyards boast Tempranillo, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon & Sauvignon Blanc. www.juniperwellranch.com
20
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
Granite Creek Vineyards ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
Granite Creek Vineyards From a love of the land sprang a relationship with grapes that culminated in superb, award winning, living wines with no added sulfites. Granite Creek Vineyards was founded in 1974 when owners Kit and Robin Hoult planted grapevines and began the 36-year legacy of Arizona’s first and only Certified Organic Vineyard. Dedicated to environmental stewardship, Granite Creek Vineyards is a scenic environment to enjoy the ambiance of the vineyard’s rural roots. Relax with picnics and great live music on this historic 100-year-old Arizona farmstead that has been nurtured to become sips of the enduring pleasures of fine wine. To learn more visit their website at www.granitecreekvineyards.com.
Freitas Vineyards Freitas Vineyard is hidden away on the outskirts of Cottonwood, AZ. It’s a small vineyard, the dream of Ray Freitas. She planted the 3 1/2 acre vineyard, located near the Verde River, in 2000 and has been tending her vines since. Her mission is to produce fruit forward wines, well balanced in flavor, color and aroma in order to stimulate and enhance your wine tasting experience. Ray calls her Malvasia “Sunlight in a bottle”. Freitas Vineyard produces only estate grown wines, utilizing the European tradition. You can taste Ray’s wines at Pillsbury Wine Co. NORTH in Old Town Cottonwood. For more information visit www.freitasvineyard.com.
Page Springs Cellars At Page Springs Cellars the goal is to create delicious wines that express the unique character of the landscape. They trust that their wines and winemaking convey their philosophies concerning family, education and living life to the fullest. Owner and Winemaker Eric Glomski feels strongly that growing grapes, making wine and raising a glass is a cultural ritual that fosters friendship, brings together families and unites communities. “Good wine is not strictly the esoteric fare of nobility. Wine is for the people.” Not only does Eric have a vineyard in northern Arizona, he owns two additional vineyards in Willcox, AZ, including Arizona Stronghold, a second venture with Maynard James Keenan. Eric’s vision is at the forefront of bringing Arizona wines onto the national stage! Learn more about their wines and events at www.pagespringscellars.com.
22
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
Sycamore Canyon Winery Sycamore Canyon Winery is located on the banks of Oak Creek just south of Sedona. Their mission statement is to create the finest quality wines available anywhere in the world. The location of the vineyard was chosen because of the perfect microclimate for growing grapes: plenty of sunshine, clean water and a cold breeze that comes down from the Mogollon Rim which cools the grapes off every evening. All of their custom wines can be sampled at the Art of Wine located in Sedona at the Hyatt Piñon Pointe Shopping Center. They are open seven days a week. www.artowine.com
San Dominique An Arizona original, San Dominique is nestled at 4600 feet, in the hills south of the Verde Valley. Atop a hill, just off the freeway, you can’t miss the winery and tasting room. Also passionate about garlic, you’ll find garlic flavored “everything” here - even wine! San Dominique is home to Bill Staltari, cellarmaster and garlic purveyor. Winemaking has been a tradition in Bill Staltari’s family, stemming back to Calabria, Italy where his father, Joseph, learned the art from his father, who in turn was taught by his father and his father’s father . . . through five generations. Be sure to visit Bill next time you’re passing through. His website is www.garlicparadise.com.
Bitter Creek Winery Jerome’s newest wine venture. An avant-garde ambiance of artwork in a first-class gallery showing some of the area’s finest artists, is the place to be for a wine tasting. Their vintner invites you to experience all of his Nouveau varieties while watching the panoramic view across the Verde Valley with Sedona Red Rocks in the distance. You will encounter a grand selection of unique, special press and hard to locate varietals. Their vineyard has 52 different varieties from cuttings taken from exceptional vineyards in Europe and the US. They aim to please even the pickiest palate. Once you’re here, you won’t want to leave! Open daily from 11am-6pm. For more information please visit www.bittercreekwinery.com or just stop by!
Painted Lady Vineyard In Skull Valley, the Painted Lady Vineyard grows Gewurztraminer grapes organically, without the use of toxic chemicals. Their one-acre vineyard, originally planted in 2006, was harvested for the first time on August 31, 2009. This was supplemented with Gewurztraminer grapes from southern Arizona to create the first totally Arizona grown Gewurztraminer wine the Painted Lady Vineyard has offered. The farming life still has its surprises (some good, some not) but optimism runs high! In the meantime Eric Glomski of Page Springs Cellars, their winemaker, continues to perfect the Painted Lady Vineyard Gewurztraminer, fermenting all the sugar out of the wine creating a beautiful dry Alsace-type wine. To learn more call at (928) 442-9831 and check out their website at www.paintedladyvineyard.com. ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
Photo by Becky Limberg
Pillsbury Wine Company Sam Pillsbury, noted filmmaker, started his dream project in 2006 with 100 acres of prime desert vineyard land in the Willcox Bench area of Kansas Settlement in Willcox. Sam’s dream was to celebrate the local terroir . . . an Arizona Chateauneuf, a sustainable Rhøne vineyard producing premium quality hand-made 100% Arizona boutique wines, and ultimately an architecturally stunning wine village with 27 dwellings, a Winery, Spa and Restaurant serving food grown organically on the land. The bare land is now a showpiece 100% Sonoita soil vineyard, the first three wines won stellar reviews and are in some of the best restaurants and resorts in the state, and the next architectural stage is underway. Pillsbury Wine Company NORTH just opened in Old Town Cottonwood, a place where you can taste Sam’s wines, view stunning art and visit with other Arizona wine lovers. Learn more at www.pillsburywineco.com.
Burning Tree Cellars
Burning Tree Cellars is the Brainchild of Corey Turnbull. Alongside friend and partner Mitch Levy, Corey been working to make this dream a reality for the last two and a half years. Burning Tree specializes in small batch, meticulously maintained, boutique wines. All the wines will have names such as The Lotus, The Dragon, The Peasant, and so on with collaborating Tarot Card labels created by good buddy and local tattoo artist Rick Wyckoff. Not only is the wine delicious, the bottles are practically works of art. The first release, Page Springs Cellars 2007 The Lotus, is now available exclusively at the Arizona Stronghold Vineyard Tasting Room located in downtown Cottonwood. For more information www.burningtreecellars.com Eric Glomski and Maynard Keenan purchased the historic Dos Cabezas Vineyards in early 2007 and renamed the Willcox vines Arizona Stronghold Vineyards. They believe that the soils and climate at the vineyard stand up to the finest in the world, feeling strongly that their wines express, first and foremost Arizona, and Jerome Winery was built on the side of secondarily the grapes and hands of the vignerons involved. Their Cleopatra Hill between Prescott and Sedona desire is to bring Arizona to the national wine stage, promoting in the historic town of Jerome, featuring over their wines as value and quality based. They believe that great wine 30 uniquely handcrafted, individually distinct doesn’t have to be expensive; it doesn’t have to be pretentious; and wines. The vintner’s philosophy is to create it shouldn’t be hard to find. It just has to be great and it has to wines that are enjoyable for the novice and the connoisseur alike. The owner be made by people that care. The Stronghold vineyard is nearly learned the art of wine-making by training as an apprentice under master planted out at 80 acres. They also winemakers throughout the United States and Europe. Wine varieties include recently acquired the Bonita Springs Pinot Grigio, Mourvedre, White Zinfandel, Syrah, Muscat, Zinfandel, Vineyard adding another 40 acres of Sparking Wine, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, 15-yr-old Port and vines and another 120 acres for potential others that are soon to be added! In addition to the Jerome Winery, they have expansion. Their tasting room recently 100 acres of vines planted in southeastern Arizona, the Dragoon Mountain opened in Old Town Cottonwood, in Vineyards. Please visit their website at www.jeromewinery.com. northern Arizona. Visit their website at www.azstronghold.com.
Arizona Stronghold Vineyards
Jerome Winery
Cellar Dwellers
24
Cellar Dwellers Wine Co. was started by two childhood friends, Chris Babin and John Scarbrough. With enthusiastic fervor, a love of winemaking and Arizona, Chris and John have set out to create great AZ wines that are hip, fun and accessible to all wine lovers. The first label being launched is Tarantula Hawk, a 2008 Zin. Inspiration for the wine label comes from the Arizona landscape and is created by a local artist Todd “soup” Matyas. The company is dedicated to community, perfecting their wines and contributing to the growing Arizona wine industry. The 2008 Tarantula Hawk is available now in tasting rooms and restaurants in Northern Arizona. Look for it.
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
26
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
Stay Connected with
the AZ wine scene “Like” us on Facebook AZVinesandWines
Follow us on @AZVinesandWines
Where to stay in Northern Arizona - B&Bs, RV resorts, hotels and high
end resorts. Check out videos of the area on www.Sedona.TV. Also check out Cottonwood Chamber of Commerce at www.cottonwoodchamberaz.org. Cliff Castle Casino Hotel
(800) 524-6343
cliffcastlecasino.net
Desert Rose B&B
(928) 646-0236
desertrosebandb.com
Hilton Sedona Resort & Spa
(928) 284-4040
hiltonsedona.com
Juniper Well Ranch (Skull Valley) (928) 442-3415
juniperwellranch.com
W
here to eat . . . There are many great
dining choices in Sedona and the Verde Valley. These places cross the spectrum from casual to elegant . . . and they pour Arizona wines!
•
The Asylum
•
Barking Frog Grille
(928) 204-2000
•
Cowboy Club
(928) 282-4200
•
Prescott Spring Hill Suites
(928) 776-0998
marriott.com/prcsh
Prescott Residence Inn
(928) 775-2232
marriott.com/prcri
• •
Adobe Grand Villas
(866) 900-7616
adobegrandvillas.com
Adobe Hacienda B&B Inn
(800) 454-7191
adobe-hacienda.com
Adobe Village Graham Inn
(800) 228-1425
adobevillagegrahaminn.com
Alma de Sedona
(800) 923-2282
almadesedona.com
Amara Resort & Spa
(928) 282-4828
amararesort.com
The Annabel Inn
(928) 649-3038
theannabelinn.com
Apple Orchard Inn
(800) 663-6968
appleorchardbb.com
Baby Quail Inn
(866) 87-QUAIL
babyquailinn.com
Briar Patch Inn
(888) 809-3030
briarpatchinn.com
Canyon Villa Inn of Sedona
(800) 453-1166
canyonvilla.com
Casa Sedona B&B Inn
(800) 525-3756
casasedona.com
Cozy Cactus B&B
(800) 788-2082
cozycactus.com
Enchantment Resort
(928) 282-2900
enchantmentresort.com
Flying Eagle Country B&B
(928) 634-0663
flyingeaglecountry.com
Garland’s Oak Creek Lodge
(928) 282-3343
garlandslodge.com
Ghost City Inn
(888) 634-4678
ghostcityinn.com
Hyatt Piñon Pointe Resort
(928) 204-8820
hyattpinonpointe.hyatt.com
The Inn on Oak Creek
(800) 499-7896
innonoakcreek.com
Junipine Resort
(800) 742-7463
junipine.com
L’Auberge de Sedona
(928) 282-1661
lauberge.com
Las Posadas of Sedona
(888) 284-5288
lasposadasofsedona.com
Lodge at Sedona
(800) 619-4467
lodgeatsedona.com
Lo Lo Mai Springs
(928) 634-4700
lolomai.com
Los Abrigados Resort & Spa
(928) 282-1777
ilxresorts.com
Mii Amo Spa at Enchantment
(928) 203-8500
miiamo.com
The Penrose B&B
(888) 678-3030
thepenrose.com
Red Agave Resort
(877) 284-9237
redagaveresort.com
Sedona Rouge Hotel & Spa
(928) 203-4111
sedonarouge.com
The Surgeon’s House
(800) 639-1452
surgeonshouse.com
28
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
Belgian Jenny’s
Cucina Rustica
(928) 639-3197
(928) 639-3141 (928) 284-3010
Dahl & Diluca
(928) 282-5219
El Portal Sedona
(928) 203-9405
Elote Cafe
(928) 203-0105
Enchantment’s Yavapai Room (800) 826-4180 Fourno’s
(928) 282-3331
Garland’s Lodge
(928) 282-3343
Joey Bistro
(928) 204-5639
Heartline Cafe
(928) 282-0785
Judi’s
L’Auberge de Sedona Nic’s Italian
Manzanita Inn
(928) 282-4449 (928) 282-1661 (928) 634-9626
(928) 634-8851
Oak Creek Brewery
(928) 282-3300
Piñon Bistro
(928) 649-0234
Picazzo’s
(928) 282-4140
Reds at Sedona Rouge
(928) 203-4111
Stakes & Sticks
(928) 204-7849
Relic’s
Troia’s
(928) 282-1593 (928) 282-0123
W
hat else is there to do . . . Here are a few ideas! This is just the tip of the iceberg . . .
•
Sedona Adventure Tours
•
Sedona Wine Country Tours
• •
“Water to Wine Tour” & Assorted Wine Tours (928) 204-6440 | sedonawinetours.com Wild Women Tours plus lots more . . . (928) 554-4075 | sedonawinecountrytours.com
Verde Valley Olive Oil Traders Olive Oil Tasting! (928) 634-9900 | vvoliveoil.com
Rendezvous In Old Town
Taste Arizona wines & beers in Cottonwood (928) 634-3777 | RIOTCottonwood.com
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
Traveling to the Florida Keys with Arizona Wine on my Mind By Deb Wahl, Owner Oak Creek Vineyards
ARIZONA. 12/13/2010. It is 12 days before Christmas, and I am preparing to leave for Florida. A crisis is cooking at my home on Big Pine Key in the Florida Keys, just 28 miles from Key West and 108 miles from Cuba. I’ve decided to drive, take I-10 and make it into a “research” road trip. The research will consist of staying in fun places along the way, drinking wine and asking people. “What do you know about Arizona wine?” and “Have you ever had it?“ First stop on my way, still in Arizona, is a meeting with Jim Wiskerchen in Phoenix. I am bringing him wine for an event. Jim is a guru when it comes to AZ wine. He has done so much for our industry and tries to make a living selling and promoting AZ wine, helping with any event possible. Jim just loves what he is doing. After our meeting, on my way to find I-10 via the Loop 202, I get totally lost. And when I get lost I do it good. It is never for a short time. ONE HOUR LATER after I left Jim, I pretty much end up in his neighborhood again. This time I follow his directions precisely and find I-10. NEW MEXICO. Still first day. It is getting late and dark and the Holiday Inn in Deming will be home for tonight. At the front desk is my first target, Rebecca Maston. She never heard about Arizona wine. Really? First interview, check!! TEXAS: 12/14/2010. I was up at 4 am and started driving. I want to make Fredericksburg, TX today. It is a great day, sunny and warm, no traffic. Fort Stockton is coming up and I pass it while on the phone talking to my neighbor in the Keys who is a contractor. He tells me about all the problems with my lovely home there. It boils down to… I should “torch it” or “doze it”. So I get off the phone with Mr. Negative and try to focus on something really positive like the level of my gas tank. Oops, it’s on empty! I see a sign that the next gas station is in Ozona, 50 miles from here! What?!? There must be another one! Please… PLEASE! Note: Dear reader, be advised there is no gas station once you leave Fort Stockton, TX heading East until you reach Ozona. It is a race against time with the descent of my gas gauge needle, but I just make it on fumes to the station in Ozona. I stop my car and give my dashboard a big hug. I tell my Chrysler Town and Country, “Good girl.” So did John from California who is traveling to see his folks in Austin. Ran out of gas that is… I do not know if he hugged his car.
Wine Winery wine (say that a couple of times after you’ve had a few). The tasting room manager and the winemaker are present and so I pop my question, “So, do you know anything about Arizona wine?” “No,” and “No”. And that’s it. No further discussion. There are two girls from Austin tasting wine and I cannot hold myself back. I have to ask. But before I can form my lips to say the first words, it’s the same thing… both say no. And then one of them said, “…but wait, maybe, or was it wine from Arkansas?” I love this, I’m thinking, I will return home, quit my life as a vineyard and winery owner and become a journalist. Third interview, check! LOUISIANA. 12/15/2010. My first time in New Orleans! I am staying at the Bourbon Inn on Bourbon Street. The hours flew by. I had a great time, and yes, I asked. Now, it’s New Orleans so I cannot remember the place, sorry. It was COLD and I had too many hot rum toddies (without the rum but plenty of bourbon). But I do remember, I did not get an affirmative answer so therefore fourth interview is a no. Check! FLORIDA. 12/16/2010. I have arrived in the Florida Keys. I’m in the upper keys and still have 100 miles to go to my house. I am staying overnight on Islamorada at a lovely resort. I ate at the bar, paid my bill, and before I left the waitress a tip, I asked the question. She believed she had tried Arizona wine, but it was cactus wine. Fifth interview, check! Friday, 12/17/2010. I drove to my house and arrived early to see the key deer grazing in my yard, eight of them. Big Pine Key is the only island that has the key deer. They look like any other deer but these guys are smaller. They say they swam here from the mainland. There are about 800 key deer on the island. I don’t think they know about Arizona wine either. Couldn’t get a straight answer. After all the drama of what I would find, it turns out I was able to fix most of the problems with my house. And the reward was Christmas day in Key West. Went to the Key West Winery and had fruit wine. I met Melissa at the winery who told me she had lived in Phoenix. The day she arrived it was 118 degrees. She moved to the Florida Keys two months later. She did not know that, yes, you can grow wine in Arizona. She might have had Arizona wine… “or was it wine from Alabama?… Or no, wait, it was from the Virgin Islands…” So it’s a no. Sixth interview, check!
“So John… do you know anything about Arizona wine?” (Seizing the opportunity)
The highlight of my visit in Key West was the Hemingway house. I toured the house and later in the evening, over a glass of wine, of course, I read a statement made by Papa: “Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world and one of the most natural things of the world that has been brought to the greatest perfection. And it offers a greater range for enjoyment and appreciation than, possibly, any other purely sensory thing.”
Nope, nada and nix. Second interview, check!
- Ernest Hemingway, Death in the Afternoon
I made it to Fredericksburg (there were enough gas stations along the way) and I decide to stay overnight here. I taste the D’Vine
So there you have it. Tomorrow I will start the long journey home. I miss my vineyard, journalism can wait.
We are both filling up when he says, “Can you believe that? No gas station between Fort Stockton and here!”
30
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
Rancho Rossa Vineyards Rancho Rossa Vineyards is one of the largest family-owned wineries in the Sonoita area. They specialize in Ultra-Premium varietal bottlings from their 22 acres of estate plantings, using only 100% estate-grown fruit in their wines, the only winery in the area to do so. Their first vines were planted in 2002 and their second vineyard was planted in 2003. Rancho Rossa will donate $0.10 to the American Cancer Society for every bottle of wine sold. Please visit the website at www.ranchorossa.com to learn more. Lightning Ridge Cellars
Wilhelm Family Vineyards
Callaghan Vineyards
In 2003, Kevin and Karyl Wilhelm bought 20 beautiful acres of rolling Sonoita-Elgin wine-growing land to begin their winemaking dream. Today Wilhelm Family Vineyards is planted with seven different varietals, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot, Tempranillo and Albarino. Other Spanish and Rhone varietals are currently being explored. Along with their wines, the Wilhelm’s 6,000 sq. ft. winery is available for custom crush processing operations, barrel storage and small individual lot winemaking. Karyl, their resident winemaker, has completed studies at U.C. Davis in the Winemaking Certification program. She prefers time-honored winemaking styles with patient guidance to nature’s best. Please visit www.WilhelmFamilyVineyards.com for the most current information about tasting hours, wine selection, and winery facility availability. Make sure you add Wilhelm Family Vineyards to your wine tour list. Come meet the family, sample their wines, and perhaps even try your harvesting and winemaking skills at their facility.
Located in the rolling oak-dotted hills of southeastern Arizona, at an elevation of 4800 feet, Callaghan Vineyards produces rich, complex red and white wines from its 25-acre vineyard. Mediterranean and Spanish varietals - Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, Tempranillo, Mourvedre and Grenache - are the basic building blocks for their red blends, while Viognier and Riesling are blended for the estate wine. They soon will also include Marsanne, Roussane and Malvasia Bianca. From their first vintage in 1991, their wines have received many accolades from the most respected wine writers/ publications in the world. Please visit them at www.callaghanvineyards.com.
Dos Cabezas WineWorks Dos Cabezas WineWorks has been producing wines in Arizona since 1995. Their award-winning wines have even been served at the White House. The winery was originally located on 80 acres near Willcox, Arizona. Just after the harvest of 2006, winemaker Todd Bostock purchased the winery with the help of his wife Kelly and his parents Frank and Paula. The winery was moved to Sonoita, close to the vineyard the family planted in Elgin in 2003 - Pronghorn Vineyards. They have since opened a tasting room at the winery and look forward to seeing you there soon! Visit them at www.doscabezaswinery.com.
32
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
Kief-Joshua Vineyards Kief-Joshua Vineyards is a small family business on 20 acres in beautiful Elgin. The first planting was in 2003 and currently they have about ten acres under vine, consisting of eight different varieties: Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Zinfandel, Riesling, Semillon and Viognier. The winemaker, Kief Manning, pursued viticulture studies in Australia, where he earned both a graduate and undergraduate degree in Viticulture and Enology. He practices traditional winemaking methods of minimal interference, open fermentation and barrel aging. He has also been practicing biodynamic growing procedures in the vineyard since 2006. Kief-Joshua Vineyards is a winery defined by family, passion & enthusiasm, with a commitment to winemaking that will exceed expectations. www.kj-vineyards.com.
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
Canelo Hills Vineyard & Winery
Lightning Ridge Cellars
Canelo Hills Vineyard and Winery is a family-owned and operated winery established in 2003 by Tim and Joan Mueller. Joan grows the grapes for the wine Tim makes, and daughter Kathryn does the marketing. They have six acres planted and are currently bottling Syrah, Riesling, Tempranillo, Zinfandel, Sangiovese and Chardonnay. Every April they host the Canelo Hills Wine & Farm Festival, where you can taste wines from Southern Arizona wineries, meet the winemakers and buy local farm products. All their wines are made on-site from 100% Arizona fruit. Canelo Hills Vineyard’s own 2008 Malvasia won the Arizona Wine Grower’s Cup Overall Best White for 2009! Learn more about them or about their many events throughout the year by visiting their website at www.canelohillswinery.com.
After their first trip to Tuscany, Ron & Ann Roncone decided the wine they’d make would be based on their Italian heritage. Lightning Ridge Cellars, a small family winery, was established in 2005. It represents years of personal endeavor from the ground up. The old world style of wines they make are simply the wines they enjoy most. Their estate wines are proudly made from classic Italian varietals: Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Montepulciano, Primitivo, Malvasia and Muscat Canelli. Located at 5,100 ft. elevration, their vineyards enjoy long warm summers and cool nights to provide the perfect combination for rich, full-bodied wines. They welcome you to their Tuscan-themed winery and tasting room. www.lightningridgecellars.com
Charron Vineyards Charron Vineyards is a small boutique winery producing hand-crafted Arizona wines. The winery’s signature White Merlot is made from grapes that are hand picked from mature vines grown at an elevation of 4023 feet. The long warm summer days, cool nights and Empire Mountain terroir sets their Merlot grapes apart. Milton and Susan Craig invite you to taste their wines while enjoying the spectacular views of the Santa Rita and Empire Mountains. They are located in Vail, 3/4 of a mile off scenic highway 83 between Tucson and Sonoita. The tasting room is open Friday - Sunday 10AM to 6pm and weekdays by appointment. Please visit their website for more information. www.charronvineyards.com.
Sonoita Vineyards Dr. Gordon Dutt, owner and founder of Sonoita Vineyards, is a retired soil scientist from the University of Arizona. As part of a research project back in 1973, he established an experimental vineyard on the red, acidic clay of the Babacomari Ranch in Southern Arizona. The success of that vineyard and the quality of the wines from those grapes led to the planting of a commercial vineyard in 1979, the first in the Sonoita-Elgin area. Sonoita Vineyards’ winery opened in 1983 with a first-vintage production of 300 gallons. Today Winemaker Fran Lightly is producing nearly 4000 cases (9500 gallons) per year from 10 different grape varieties including Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Over 90% of this production is sold through a beautiful and spacious tasting room, gift shop and special events facility with picturesque views of hillside vineyards, rolling grasslands and scenic mountain ranges. This facility is open daily (except major holidays) from 10AM to 4PM. Visit www.sonoitavineyards.com for more info.
34
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
Village of Elgin Winery The Village of Elgin Winery emphasizes terroir. They stomp the grapes, use natural yeasts, hand craft and use only new wood casks. The winery accents small-lot red, white and rosé wines ranging from single varietals such as Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese to traditional blended delights. Each wine is handcrafted by the winemakers/owners Gary and Kathy Reeves. The Village of Elgin Winery is home to the WORLD renowned Tombstone Red which has spawned three other wines including a seven-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon named Tombstone Gunslinger and two whites, Tombstone Rain and Tombstone Showdown. Their Dry Rosé was the Rosé category Best of Class at the Governor’s Choice. Please visit them at www.elginwines.com.
Four Monkey Wines Four Monkey Wines, one of Arizona’s new wineries, produces quality wines at reasonable prices; the four wines retail for under $11/bottle. The winery produces the Playful Monkey, a Cabernet Sauvignon and a 2007 Governor’s Choice Wine Competition Silver Medal Winner. The other three wines are the Sinful Monkey, the Naughty Monkey and the Cheeky Monkey—encompassing two reds and two whites, all representing individual personalities. For tastings visit the Village of Elgin Winery. Learn more at www.fourmonkeywines.com.
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
36
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
W
W
here to eat . . . You’ll find everything from pizza-
here to stay . . . When traveling to wine country it’s a great
to-go to fine dining. Here are a few choices . . . keep in mind that none of the wineries serve meals (you’ll find some snacks at a few) - so plan ahead, bring some sandwiches and have a picnic!
idea to make a weekend of it and have time to enjoy the area you are visiting. Here are some great places to stay while visiting your favorite wineries in Sonoita.
Sonoita/Elgin
•
The Steakout Restaurant & Saloon . . . (520) 455-5205
www.xanaduranchgetaway.com
•
Gathering Grounds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 394-2097
www.sonoitainn.com
•
La Hacienda de Sonoita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-5308 www.haciendasonoita.com
Xanadu Ranch Getaway Guest Ranch / Hybrid B&B . . (520) 455-0050 Sonoita Inn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-5935
•
•
Rain Valley Bed & Breakfast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 456-2911 Canelo Stone Cottage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (303) 384-0471
•
Casita Dole Che . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-5687
•
www.vrbo.com/90775
www.casitadoleche.com
Crown C Ranch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-5739 www.crowncranch.com
Rancho Milagro Bed & Breakfast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-0380 www.milagroranch.com
Whisper’s Ranch Bed & Breakfast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-9246 www.whispersranch.com
Patagonia Roadrunner Retreat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (360) 455-0220 www.southernarizonavacationrentalhomes.com
Spirit Tree Inn Bed & Breakfast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (866) 394-0121 www.spirittreeinn.com
The Duquesne House Bed & Breakfast . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 394-2732 www.theduquesnehouse.com
The Enchanted Garden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 604-0070 www.enchantedgardenaz.net
Casita Frontera Guest Cottage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 604-6762 www.lafronteraaz.com/id60.html
La Palomita de Patagonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 394-2036 Painted House Studio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 394-2740 Red Mountain Guest House . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 394-2977 www.redmtncottage.com
• • • •
Canela Bistro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-5873
Grasslands Natural Foods Bakery . . . . . (520) 455-4770 Home Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 394-2344 Viaggio Italiano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-5282 Ranch House Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-5371 Sonoita Crossroads Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-0040 The Café . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-5044 Velvet Elvis Pizza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 394-2102 Wagon Wheel Restaurant & Saloon . . . (520) 394-2433
W
hat else is there to do . . . Sonoita is an area with
a lot of charm. Horse ranches cover the countryside as well as Alpaca farms. Patagonia has a distinctive character and is a great town to visit. Here are some fun ways to enjoy the area . . . Square Top Alpacas - (520) 455-4600 www.squaretopranch.com Arizona Horseback Experience - (520) 455-5696 www.horsebackexperience.com Try their “Wine Tasting Ride” Arizona Sunshine Tours - (520) 803-6713 www.arizonasunshinetours.com Wine Country Tours
Studio Gallery & Lodging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 394-2978 Cross Creek Cottages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 400-7230 Dos Palmas Vacation Home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (866) 394-0056 www.dospalmasaz.com
Circle Z Ranch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 394-2525 www.circlez.com
Patagonia Oaks - A Birder’s Haven . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (410) 527-0304
Santa Cruz County
Hacienda Corona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 287-6503 www.haciendacorona.com
A Room With A View . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 397-9297 www.patagoniaview.com
38
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
Colibri Vineyards Before Bob Johnson became a plant scientist, his wife Mickey, a physician, and he spent most of their adult lives in the medical field. One spring morning in 1995, he discovered a restless apple orchard with wonderful rows of trees arm in arm. This land “called to him”. As he stood surveying the buildings and grounds, his gaze caught sight of a beautiful stone arch up on a hilltop, carved thousands of years ago by combined forces of nature. Without hesitation, he and his wife purchased the property, named it Colibri and began to create their dream. Visit their website for more information at www.colibrivineyard.com.
Carlson Creek Carlson Creek Vineyard is dedicated to the production of fine wine from Arizona. We are family owned and operated. Although we are a young company, we are filled with a passion for the grape vine. Our v i n e ya r d ’ s elevation provides a perfect climate for growing wine grapes. All of us at Carlson Creek Vineyard hope you will come and visit us in our new Willcox tasting room. Learn more by checking out our website at www.carlsoncreek.com.
Lawrence Dunham
Fort Bowie Vineyards Fort Bowie Vineyards & Orchard Products features the freshest and finest products. Currently the Orchards produce Pecans, Walnuts, Peaches and Cherries. A variety of nut products including specialty roasted Cinnamon Sugared Pecans, Salted and Roasted Pecans, Chocolate Pecan Clusters and Pecan Oil can be purchased at their store year round. The Vineyards produce a unique diversity of wines ranging from their famous Arizona Sweet Water, a sweet white dessert wine, to their Pecan Delight, a distinctive sparkling wine with the essence of pecans. Fort Bowie Vineyards recently introduced a new line of Chocolate Wine Sauces and Wine Truffles. Wine tasting is offered daily. Find out more at their website at www.fortbowievineyards.net.
Keeling Schaefer Vineyards At 5000 feet above sea level, the summer climate of warm, sunny days and cool, high desert nights combines with the unique rhyolite volcanic soils to create wine with special characteristics. We produce estate grown and bottled wine on our 21 acres of vineyards located on Rock Creek on the western slope of the Chiricahua Mountains in far southeastern Arizona. We live on the estate, a little wine ranch on the side of the mountain, a quiet place far from the city, where one’s life plays out along with the wine season. The winery and vineyard are not open to the public, however, we do accept visitors by appointment. Our new tasting room in Historic Downtown Willcox is open Thursday - Sunday 11-4. 520.824.2500 or www.keelingschaefervineyards.com.
Cimarron In the shadow of the Chiricahua Mountains at 4300 ft., lies the fertile Kansas Settlement farmland. Oregon pinot pioneer Dick Erath chose this unique site to plant his Cimarron Vineyard. Planting traditional grapes alongside unique varietals, Erath plans to create wines to please the most discerning palate while retaining Arizona’s unique terroir. His first vintage was released through select Fox Restaurant locations and future releases will be available through the tasting room at Dos Cabezas WineWorks in Sonoita.
We create hand crafted wines that reflect the unique characteristics of southeastern Arizona. Our philosophy of winemaking is to select the perfect varietals and let nature do its magic with as little intervention as possible. We let the fruit speak for itself. Rhone-varietals flourish in the volcanic soils of our 5,000-foot elevation estate in the Chiricahua Mountain foothills. Add clean air, pure water, mountain breezes, and four seasons and we have the key ingredients that make up our outstanding terrior. Visit this magical place and experience the unique wines of the Lawrence Dunham Vineyards. Go to www.lawrencedunhamvineyards.com or call 602.320.1485 to join the Chiricahua Circle or wine club, purchase our wines, arrange for a visit, or attend an upcoming event. Wine tasting by appointment only.
40
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
Coronado Vineyards It was spring 2005, in the early morning shadows of the Dos Cabezas Mountains, that Mark and Jacque Cook planted the first vines at their El Pinito Vineyard. The vineyard is named for its’ lone, majestic pine tree, all that remains of what once was a golf course. The vines flourished, and Coronado Vineyards is now proud to introduce you to our award winning wines. We craft each wine to be a unique experience: sweet table wines and exciting blends; our gold medal sparkling wine Dolce Veritas; and our fine varietals including Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Riesling.Our El Pinito vineyard and on-site Taste of Coronado Restaurant, offer the perfect setting to enjoy wine and appetizers with a few friends, or hold a large private event or wedding. Chef Zach Hoffman and his warm and inviting staff can insure that your special event will be one to remember. Come experience all that Coronado Vineyards has to offer. An adventure in wine tasting awaits you. www.coronadovineyards.com ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
42
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
W
W
here to eat . . . • • • • •
W
here to stay . . . Willcox has some
great B&Bs. If you enjoy meeting some great people and staying in a beautiful environment - you’ll love it!
Coronado Vineyards..................................... (520) 384-2993 Mon, Thurs, Fri & Sat Dinner beginning at 5PM Sunglow Ranch Cafe.................................... (520) 824-3334 Delicious & healthy serving natural, organic & local foods Reservations required
El Ranchero.......................................................(520) 384-2660 Some of the B&Bs also serve dinner if requested.
•
Apple Annie’s (seasonal) | www.appleannies.com
•
Kartchner Caverns State Park | (520) 586-2283
• • •
•
Cochise Stronghold B&B (520) 826-4141 www.cochisestrongholdbb.com
•
Copper Queen Hotel (Bisbee) (520) 432-2216 www.copperqueen.com
•
Dos Cabezas Spirit & Nature Retreat B&B (520) 384-6474 www.doscabezasretreat.com
•
Down By The River Bed & Breakfast (520) 720-9441 www.downbytheriverbandb.com (St. David)
•
Dreamcatcher Bed & Breakfast (520) 824-3127 www.dreamcatcherbandb.com
•
Grapevine Canyon Ranch (520) 826-3185 www.gcranch.com
•
Letson Loft Hotel (Bisbee) (520) 432-3210 www.letsonlofthotel.com
•
Muleshoe Ranch @ Nature Conservancy (520) 212-4295
•
Strawbale Manor Bed & Breakfast (888) 414-3077 www.bbonline.com/az/strawbale
•
Triangle T Guest Ranch (520) 586-7533 www.triangletguestranch.com
Visit Chiricahua National Monument | www.nps.gov/chir/ Amerind Foundation Museum | www.amerind.org
Hike Cochise Stronghold | www.cochisestronghold.com Tour the Rex Allen Museum | www.rexallenmuseum.org
Photo Courtesy of Curt Dunham
Lawrence Dunham Vineyards
44
Sunglow Guest Ranch (520) 824-3334 www.sunglowranch.com
Big Tex BBQ......................................................(520) 384-4423
hat else is there to do . . . •
•
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
RUBEE’S RESTAURANT SPOTLIGHT . . . Crescent Moon at Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale
A Crescent Moon Shines Bright Article By Christina Barrueta/ Photos by Michell Jonas Photography Living in scenic Arizona, we are surrounded by beautiful resorts. A short drive can lead us to a luxurious desert oasis and its restaurants, gorgeous sunsets, and desert landscape views. The relaxing intimate feel of the Four Seasons Scottsdale at Troon North has made it a favorite of mine. Tucked in the shadows of Pinnacle Peak, arriving here immediately puts me into vacation mode.
is overflowing with black beans layered with tinga - juicy shredded chicken in a smoky tomato-chipotle sauce – guacamole, crema, and salsa. Pretzel rolls sweetened with a hint of honey are addictive dipped into melted cheddar spiked with jalapeños. A trio of sliders offers something for everyone - crab cake with chipotle mayo, pork belly with slices of buttery avocado, or the Kobe slider with melted Vermont aged white cheddar. Many of these tasty treats can be found on the $5 daily Happy Hour menu. At Crescent Moon, choose to sit in the dining room anchored by an open kitchen with wood-burning oven, or settle in on the patio with its Sonoran desert vistas. My last visit was a Thursday when complimentary tequila tastings are held. Manager Chris Romero was entertaining and informative as he described the tequila-making process, and sampling Partida tequilas as the sun set was a lovely way to begin our meal.
Crescent Moon's Open Kitchen While Talavera, Four Seasons’ signature restaurant, earns well-deserved accolades, I was introduced to its more casual restaurant at an “In the Kitchen with Chef Mecinas”event (hosted by social media mavens Diya Marketing and Girl Meats Fork). Impressed with the warmth of the staff, including Executive Chef Mel Mecinas and Chef Keith Smutny, the delectable dishes, and manager Tim Houdek’s sangria made with Arizona Stronghold’s Nachise, I immediately made plans to return. Overseeing all dining options on the property, Chef Mecinas draws on his Oaxaca, Mexico roots for the menus at Onyx Lounge and Crescent Moon. The centerpiece of Onyx is a mesquite bar and striking use of its namesake gemstone, while outside is a pretty terrace with sunset views. There is an extensive tequila list, cocktails, beer, and wine, along with Jarritos Mexican sodas and fresh agua frescas such as rosy-pink jamaica with hibiscus flowers. Small plates make it easy to share while sipping on a margarita, perhaps the Nectar De Agave with Don Julio añejo, agave nectar, and fresh lime juice. Tacos are an obvious choice, from spicy tuna tacos with softly tender cubes of tuna contrasting with the delicate crunch of fried wontons, to lump crab with pink grapefruit and julienned radishes, folded in thinly sliced jicama ‘shells’. Carne asada nachos arrive in a cazuela topped with well-charred bites of flavorful beef, guacamole, crema, pico de gallo, and orange and green pickled jalapeños. Plump mussels with chorizo swim in a broth enlivened with smoked paprika and tequila, served with cilantro oil-brushed bread to soak up every drop. A masa (dough made with ground dried corn) sope
46
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
Sweet meets spicy in a tropical-colored Mango en Fuego with habaneroinfused tequila and lime, the perfect cocktail to sip while perusing the menu. Start with tableside guacamole and have it made just the way you like it with additions of chopped onion, tomatoes, cilantro, chiles, and lime. Camarones al Mojo feature shrimp draped in mango-habanero sauce nestled against a flaky empanada stuffed with the Mexican delicacy huitlacoche (a mushroom-like corn fungus) and cheese. A salad of Atun Crudo arrives as a bed of lightly dressed arugula scattered with slices of togarashi-crusted seared tuna, hearts of palm, and jicama, sparked with jalapeño. Chef Smutny’s wonderful Sopa de Tortilla is a broth chock full of calabacitas, corn, and other vegetables, poured over a bowl of queso fresco and fried Onyx Lounge Bites
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
drizzled with Argentine honey – with a squeeze of lime and dipped into rich dulce de leche. Open for breakfast, Crescent Moon offers the usual suspects, although I’m enticed by Regional Specials such as the Crab Cake Benedict with chipotle hollandaise, or the Pan Torrejas French toast smothered in Kahlua-caramelized bananas and cajeta (Mexican caramel). The lunch menu includes lighter choices, salads, tortas (Mexican sandwiches), and flatbreads. I can easily picture myself sitting on the sunny patio with a plate of lobster enchiladas and a glass of Arizona Stronghold’s Tazi.
Mar y Tierra tortilla strips, maintaining their crisp-chewy texture and imparting the toasted corn flavor integral to this classic Mexican soup. Seafood shines at Crescent Moon. Cayos de Hacha is three fat juicy scallops sitting in a row on lobster risotto studded with corn and peas and strewn with disks of Spanish chorizo. A plate of beautiful colors, Seabass Chileno with chimichurri-stuffed squash blossoms rests in a pool of sunshine-gold corn butter sauce, decorated with a tumble of purple-red cabbage. Feast on Mar y Tierra, juicy strip loin with sweet shrimp and scallop and unique Oaxaca-style ball-shaped chorizo bolitas, all accompanied by folded tortillas enrobed in Chef Mecinas’ complexly spiced mole Oaxaqueño. This rich and earthy mole complements another winner - Kobe flat iron steak, cooked perfectly medium rare, topped with decadent seared foie gras and served with baby carrots and pattypan squash. Tender slices of slow-cooked lengua (tongue) are napped in salsa verde, a tangy green tomatillo salsa. Robust Barbacoa de Borrego (lamb shank) sits in a cast-iron pan, infused with the rich chile-spices of adobo and best savored by wrapping chunks of fall-off the-bone meat in warm tortillas. To end such a feast, I’m partial to the creamy cinnamon-spiced Mexican Hot Chocolate or the warm Spiced Rice cocktail made with horchata (a rice-based Mexican beverage) and rum. Warm Chocolate Diablo Cake has a trace of chipotle heat and is paired with a refreshing hibiscus sorbet adorned with a crystallized hibiscus flower and a cookie pitchfork. Horchata crème brulée in a copper pan is bedecked with exotic fruit salsa and triangles of cinnamon tortillas. Or try my favorite, sopapillas – puffy dough pillows
Lime Scented Sopapillas with Argentine Honey
Warm Chocolate Diablo Cake & Hibiscus Sorbet The next time you have a day off, hop in your car and take a ride. After a leisurely lunch, spoil yourself with a spa appointment, and finish up with a sunset cocktail. Or combine dinner with complimentary stargazing on Friday nights led by Astronomer Richard Allen. Treat yourself to a weekend Happy Hour at Onyx, or tequila tasting and dining al fresco at Crescent Moon. It’s easy to feel like you’re on vacation while enjoying deftly prepared modern Mexican fare and beautiful scenery. ¡Buen provecho!
Tequila Tasting with Chris Romero
Crescent Moon Four Seasons Resort at Troon North 10600 East Crescent Moon Dr. Scottsdale, AZ 85262
480.515.5700 www.FourSeasons.com Christina Barrueta is an avid Chowhound, passionate about food, wine and spirits. A transplant from Boston, she loves finding new locations to whet her appetite. You may follow her as Rubee on Chowhound.com or @Rubee100 on Twitter.
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
47
EVENTS CALENDAR
Don’t forget to check updated event listings on our website at www.AZWineEvents.com
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
MARCH EVENTS
Granite Creek Vineyards - Every Saturday “Spring Wine, Music & Picnic Series” - GraniteCreekVineyards.com
3/3 7pm Dribble Creek Winemaker Dinner at Crudo Cafe MyWineHelper.com 3/4-6 Kokopelli Winery Jazz, Wine, Blues & Barrel Tasting Festival KokopelliWinery.com 3/4-6 10am-5pm Carefree Fine Art & Wine Festival ThunderbirdArtists.com 3/4 5pm Arizona Stronghold Wine Dinner at Nic's Restaurant AZStronghold.com 3/5 6pm-11pm The Sip for St. Gregory StGregorySchool.org 3/5 Great Arizona Beer Festival AZBeer.com 3/5 & 6 Page Springs Cellars Burgers & Barrels PageSpringsCellars.com 3/12&13 11am-4pm Devoured Culinary Classic DevourPhoenix.com 3/12 7pm Naked Winemakers Dinner at Caffe Boa on Mill CafeBoa.com 3/12-13 9am-5pm Litchfield Park Art & Culinary Festival VermillionPromotions.com 3/18 6pm Meet the Winemaker at Arizona Stronghold AZStronghold.com 3/18-20 10am-5pm Fountain Hills Fine Art & Wine Affaire ThunderbirdArtists.com 3/18-20 Stagecoach Village Fine Art & Culinary Festival VermillionPromotions.com 3/24 7pm Elk Cove Winemaker Dinner at Cheuvront Cheuvronts.com 3/24 7pm-9:30pm The Single Malt & Scotch Whiskey Extravaganza SingleMaltExtravaganza.com 3/25-27 10am-5pm Tempe Festival of the Arts & Arizona Wine Festival TempeFestivaloftheArts.com 3/25 Kokopelli Winery Wine & Cooking Series - French KokopelliWinery.com 3/26 Arizona Barbecue Festival AZBBQFestival.com 3/29 6pm OneHope Wine Tasting at House of Tricks HouseofTricks.com
APRIL EVENTS
4/1-3 Tucson 4th Avenue Street Fair FourthAvenue.org 4/2 Ecology Hike with Eric Glomski AZStronghold.com 4/4 2pm-7pm Women, Wine & Golf WomenOnCourse.com 4/5-10 Scottsdale Culinary Festival ScottsdaleCulinaryFestival.org 4/9 4:30p-6pm Winemaking & Wine Tasting Class at Canelo Hills Winery CaneloHillsWinery.com 4/15 6pm Evening with the Winemaker - Arizona Stronghold AZStronghold.com 4/16&17 11am-7pm Kief-Joshua New Arizona Wine Release Festival KiefJoshuaVineyards.com 4/22 8pm Alcantara Night at Phoenix Theater AlcantaraVineyard.com 4/22 Kokopelli Winery Wine & Cooking Series - German KokopelliWinery.com 4/29 2pm-8pm Thank You Cottonwood Carnival AZStronghold.com 4/29-30 Page Springs Cellars Build-A-Blend PageSpringsCellars.com 4/30 Sonoita Vineyard's Blessing of the Vines Festival SonoitaVineyards.com 4/30 4pm-6:30pm Wine, Women & Jazz Fundraiser AZWP.org
MAY EVENTS
• • • • • • •
5/6 6pm-9pm Celebrate Children 2011 Strengthbuilding.org 5/7&8 Prescott Fine Art & Wine Festival PrescottArtFestivals.com 5/7&8 1pm Granite Creek Vienyards Mother's Day Wine & Art Festival GraniteCreekVineyards.com 5/14&15 Willcox Wine Country Spring Festival WillcoxWines.com 5/21 12pm-6pm Kingman Wine & Food Festival KingmanWineFestival.webs.com 5/27-29 Canelo Hills Winery White Wine Release Weekend CaneloHillsWinery.com 5/28 10am Arizona Stronghold Frisbee Golf AZStronghold.com
48
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
Subscribe TODAY!
$19.95
www.ArizonaVinesandWines.com
Never miss an issue of ARIZONA VINES & WINES
Wine About Town Article & Photos By Tim Hilcove, www.WeeklyWineJournal.com A common misconception about wine bars and wine in general is that it is a stuffy upper crust affair. In the last year I’ve visited almost every wine bar, wine shop, and wine centric restaurant in the Phoenix metro area and I’ve come up with a number of places that represent a fresh approach to the wine experience. Over the years many people have remarked about the lack of an actual “downtown” nightlife or vibe in Phoenix. It’s there, you just have to know where to look. Bar Bianco is one of those places. Located in a red brick heritage house with large sash windows right in the heart of downtown Phoenix, the interior is decorated with folk art, distressed tables and retro chairs and couches spread throughout. There is even a cozy little bar in one of the side rooms. The wine list is not extensive but it does offer up a couple of Arizona wine gems. Bar Bianco is actually
best selections of California wines in the state. AZ Wine Company has wine tastings twice a week featuring critically acclaimed wines for measly $15 tasting fee. And $10 of that fee can be applied to the purchase of a bottle of the wine being sampled. The atmosphere is straightforward and designed for tasting so there’s not a lot of ambiance. But as is often the case with wine, you make your own ambiance. The nice thing about the limited seating tastings is that
AZ Wine Co.
more of a staging area for the award winning Pizzeria Bianco located right next door. Pizzeria customers wait a minimum of an hour and a half for a table but they can do so inside Bar Bianco and will be called when their table becomes available. On my last visit, I met owner Chris Bianco and Chef Claudio Urciuoli and they confirmed there are plans to expand the kitchen and menu at Bar Bianco this spring and turn it into a stand alone experience, so keep your eyes open. On the opposite end of the spectrum is Kazimierz World Wine Bar located in Old Town Scottsdale. The entrance is in the back, and the only signage reads “The Truth is Inside” which pays homage to the Latin and Greek saying “In Wine there is the Truth”. Inside, Kazimierz has the feel of an underground cellar, complete with stone walls and candles and there are no windows.. Kazbar, as its known by locals, has one of the most extensive wine lists in the state of Arizona with over 2,000 wines. Kazimierz also serves wine “flights”, which allow customers to experience several different wines in smaller portions. Whenever I have out of town guests I always take them to Kazimierz and not just for the wine...the chocolate fondue is a fun way to experience dessert. Besides dessert, Kazimierz also offers a selection of cheeses, meats and flatbread pizzas. Last but not least in this installment is AZ Wine Company, just south of Old Town Scottsdale. Located rather unassumingly in a strip mall, this wine shop has one of the
54
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
Metro Phoenix has a lot to offer wine enthusiasts but you have to know where to look. These three suggestions offer a range of experiences that should satisfy casual consumers as well as connoisseurs. For more information on local wine events, bars and Arizona wine reviews check out my website at www.weeklywinejournal.com. Photo by Darrylee Cohen
Lounging at Bar Bianco
you always have a chance to talk directly with the featured wine maker. I’ve met wine making legends such as Robert Lindquist of Qupe on a number of occasions at these intimate wine tastings. Located right next door to AZ Wine Company is Atlas Bistro, a fine dining restaurant that actually allows you to bring your own wine, provided you purchased it at AZ Wine Company.
KazBar Tim Hilcove is a local entrepreneur and wine enthusiast. www.WeeklyWineJournal.com ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
spring 2011 top arizona wine supporter Every issue we are going to give a special shout out to businesses that we believe are an asset to the Arizona wine industry. Here's a chance to get involved. Who do you think should be on this page next issue? Do you believe your business should be here? Email us at publisher@arizonavinesandwines.com and tell us why! FnB deserves our inaugural "shout out" for so many reasons. The owners of FnB, Pavle & Emily Milic and Charleen Badman have created the most amazing culinary destination. Their commitment to local, fresh flavors includes their wine list, an all Arizona wine list. Pavle organized the Judgment of Arizona, a competition blindly pitting AZ's best against other well known names from around the world. The results showed that Arizona wines have arrived and should be taken seriously. Pavle has inadvertently become the "ambassador" for Arizona wines, sharing his passion for the local terroir with the many hungry souls heading to his (as he calls it) "little gin joint". Michell Jonas Photography
FnB has received accolades from local media as well as national (ever heard of Food & Wine . . . well, they've heard of FnB!). Charleen has proven to be a chef extraordinaire, preparing seemingly simple yet so deliciously flavorful dishes in the open kitchen. Arriving at FnB you will be promptly greeted and automatically feel as if you have become one of the family, a family you will cherish and never want to leave! So with a shout out to our friends at FnB: Pavle, Emily, Charleen, Sacha, Josh and the many others who have joined in to take care of the minions who visit this 32 seat restaurant - THANK YOU!
www.FnBRestaurant.com Old Town Scottsdale
Also . . . Phoenix Public Mkt 721 N Central Avenue Phoenix, AZ 85004 foodconnect.org
Plaza Liquors
2642 North Campbell Ave. Tucson, AZ 85719 (520) 327-0452
Hyatt Gainey Ranch
Sphinx Date Ranch
Friday Night Arizona Wine Throwdown! Scottsdale, AZ scottsdale.hyatt.com
3039 N Scottsdale Road Scottsdale, AZ sphinxdateranch.com
Arizona Vines & Wines Favorite Locations to buy & Enjoy AZ wines: Total Wine & More
Art of Wine
Grill at Shadow Rock Rendezvous Sedona HiltonSedona.com
Old Town Cottonwood RIOTCottonwood.com
Storytellers
Cave Creek Wines
Asylum
Quiessence
Steak Out
Canela Bistro
5 Arizona Locations TotalWine.com
North Phoenix CaveCreekWines.com
56
Sedona ArtoWine.com Jerome ArtoWine.com
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
Phoenix QuiessenceRestaurant.com
Sonoita AZSteakOut.com
Camp Verde CliffCastleCasino.net Sonoita CanelaBistro.com
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
CHEF’S TABLE
Sweet Ancho Seared Pork Tenderloin
With Honey Cilantro Corn Cakes, Dried Cherry Madiera Reduction Provided by Chef Anthony DeMuro of Different Pointe of View
Sweet Ancho Rub Pork Tenderloin INGREDIENTS:
Sweet Honey Corn Cakes INGREDIENTS:
1/2 c. ground ancho chilies 1/4 c. paprika 1/2 c. ground guajillo chilies 1/2 c. brown sugar 1/4 c. chili powder 1/4 c. kosher salt 1/4 c. coffee, fine grounds 1 Tbsp. fresh ground pepper 1/4 c. ground cumin Olive Oil (as needed) 3 whole pork tenderloins (all silver skin removed)
4 ears of fresh corn removed from the cob Corn milk from the 4 ears of corn* 3 eggs 2 c. half and half 1 bunch of chopped fresh cilantro Salt & fresh ground pepper to taste
PROCEDURE:
PROCEDURE:
Mix the dry ingredients. Roll pork tenderloin in rub until well coated (the heavier the better). Put a generous amount of olive oil on pork. If some of the rub comes off just add a bit more (pork should look very wet). Preheat oven to 400°. In a hot cast iron pan place some olive oil and sear the pork until nicely browned on all sides. Place in a roasting pan with a rack to let the juices fall through. Roast in oven until 130° in the center of the loin. Pull the pork from the oven and let rest at room temperature for 10 minutes before slicing.
In a hot sauté pan, char the corn. Then place in a small mixing bowl. Add the half and half, eggs, corn milk, cilantro and honey. Mix well. Add 1/2 of the flour. Mix well. Gradually add more of the flour until the batter is thick (it should resemble the thickness of pancake batter). Add the baking powder and melted butter. Mix well. Season with salt and pepper. In a non-stick sauté pan (preheated) on medium to high heat, place one large tablespoon of batter and cook until slightly browned. Flip cake and brown on the other side. (They cook very fast, only about one minute on each side.)
1/4 c. honey 3 - 4 c. semolina flour 3 Tbsp. baking powder 1/4 c. melted butter * To make corn milk scrape the cob with the back of a knife to get all the corn milk that is left on the cob
Photo by Chef Anthony DeMuro
A Different Pointe of View Pointe Hilton Tapatio Cliffs Resort 11111 North 7th Street Phoenix, AZ 85020 (602) 866-6350 www.TapatioCliffsHilton.com
58
Dried Cherry Madeira Reduction INGREDIENTS: 1 c. Madeira wine 1 c. dried cherries 1 1/2 c. demi glace In a small sauce pot add cherries & Madeira wine and reduce until almost dry. Add demi and reduce until it has a sauce consistency.
“I highly recommend Michell Jonas for your photography needs. She is extremely talented and professional.. Her photos can be found throughout most Arizona Vines and Wines issues.”
TO ASSEMBLE FINAL DISH: Place 2 ounces of the reduction on your plate. Place 4 corn cakes in the center. Slice pork and fan it over the cakes and serve. By Chef Anthony DeMuro
Publisher, Arizona Vines and Wines
RecommendedPairing: Photo courtesy of Keeling Schaefer Vineyards
By Sommelier Eric Spragett
Keeling Schaefer Vineyards 2008 "Three Sisters" Syrah ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
59
VAGABONDING LULU
Divine Intervention in the U.S.'s Oldest Winegrowing Region Article & Photos by Stacey Wittig, Travel Writer
W
hen the International Wine & Spirit Competition IWSC announced Gruet Winery as the 2010 U.S. Producer of the Year last fall, I figured it was high time for a road trip to New Mexico. I wanted to learn what was going on over there.
Casa Rondeña Winery’s lush grounds and Old World architecture make a favorite backdrop for outdoor gatherings. I recommend joining the locals around the picturesque pond to sip Casa Rondeña’s internationally-awarded wines.
So off I cruise with fellow wine-enthusiast Melanie Nelson to Gruet Winery in Albuquerque. Over a glass of award-winning Gruet Blanc de Noirs we ask Regina Wilson, Gruet’s Tasting Room Manager, about the buzz. “We were up against big names like Robert Mondavi. It is exciting for the entire region to have such recognition,” exclaims Wilson.
Just up the road, the Village of Corrales is situated on a historic Spanish Land Grant. This romantic agricultural area sported vineyards, apple orchards and chilies but no English-speakers until the 1920s. We spend two relaxing nights at the Chocolate Turtle Bed and Breakfast in the heart of Corrales wine country.
The Old World warmth of the tasting room surprises me – it’s right off gritty Interstate 25 – until I learn that the Gruet family is from the Champagne region in France. No wonder the European ambience, or that their bubbly is so acclaimed. “It’s a real American Dream story,” explains Wilson reaching over the wine bar’s deeply-carved oak panels to pour another taste. It seems that after travelling through New Mexico on a family vacation, French winemaker Gilbert Gruet decided to plant an experimental vineyard near Truth or Consequences, NM. “He was astonished by the rugged beauty, the terroir and the affordability of land,” says Wilson. “His vision was to have the whole family involved. So his children moved to New Mexico to begin planting the vineyards. Just imagine, they didn’t speak English and lived in a small trailer in the hot desert.” Now, thirty years later, their internationally-recognized sparking wine is distributed in 49 states. Gilbert Gruet was not the first European to recognize New Mexico’s winegrowing potential. In fact, New Mexico is the oldest viticultural region in North America. According to Christian Gallagher, our host at Casa Rondeña Winery, “In 1629, Fray Marcos Garciada de Zuniga smuggled the first European grapevines to New Mexico. He celebrated the first vintage in 1633, over 200 years before vinifera vines were planted in the Napa Valley of California!” Because the Spanish Crown had no way to tax wine produced in the New World, they wouldn’t allow vines to be transported and thus the smuggler’s ploy.
Milagro Winery in Corrales, NM
The enchanting getaway decorated in bright Southwestern colors is the perfect wine lovers’ retreat. We bring our own, and innkeepers Dallas and Nancy offer wine glasses, opener and fridge. With breakfast we get a plethora of insider tips: “Hanselmann Pottery in the village is a must-do. It’s open 24/7 and set up on ‘The Honor System,’ you find what you like and drop your money in the box. They are so concerned with security that they keep the cash box bolted to the table,” Dallas laughs. We’ve called ahead for reservations at Milagro Vineyards and Winery and drive to the cute adobe tasting cottage. “The wine making methods we use could be commonly found in France. My interest is in having the grapes show up in the wine… we have an oak component but the oak is not overly done,” says vintner Rick Hobson who meticulously uses sustainable agricultural practices. Preferring to keep alcohol levels lower, he explains, “I like wine, and the lower the alcohol, the more I can drink.” “A lot of divine intervention comes into wine making in New Mexico,” smiles Rick’s wife Mitzi. Hence the name: Milagro,
60
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
Ideal Vineyard Land
Desirable corner entering Cochise Stronghold Canyon
40 – 160 acres fronts both Ironwood and Cochise Stronghold Rd | Near future Dragoon Mountain Yoga Retreat
JASON LANDEEN, BROKER
Jami Auerbach
Josh Moffitt
Bringing Yoga, Wine and AZ Together jauerbach@newgenerationpower.org 602.740.3007
Specializing in Arizona’s Wine Country arizonalandbaron.com 602.363.5674
Land from $3500 an acre and up
Multiple parcels available
Vagabonding LuLu . . . cont’d The next morning, we toast the success of our New Mexico road trip with a glass of Gruet sparkling wine during a fabulous brunch at Zinc Wine Bar & Bistro. Don’t miss this dining establishment for its tempting menu and exquisite service. I am blown away by the Hacienda Breakfast Skillet with green chile hash and espanole sauce, a simple sauce made from veal broth and flour ($12) while Melanie gobbles the Baked Vegetarian Manicotti ($13). Again the warm, New Mexican ambience makes it difficult for us to leave. On our way home, one hour west of Albuquerque, we stop at San Fidel for our last tasting of the road trip. Antonio and Lucinda Trujillo welcome us to the 300-case Guadalupe Vineyards at the foot of Mount Taylor, revered by the Navajos as one of four sacred mountains. “The year [vintage] is the personality of the wine, and it takes on the personality of the person managing the vineyard,” says Antonio opening a bottle of dry Riesling, the 2010 Gold Medal winner of the Eastern International Wine Competition in New York. “Heavenly…” I murmur at my first sip.
Simply Divine: Baked Vegetarian Manicotti at Zinc's
Spanish for miracle. “We want our wines to reflect the taste of New Mexico.” In Milagro’s crisp Chardonnay I taste the wet slate of the surrounding hills. I could stay in this garden-surrounded haven all day, but we must move on. At Corrales Winery, former materials engineer Keith Johnstone explains the subtleties of New Mexican grape growing. “This is a fairly severe environment. There’s hot growth in the daytime and a total shutdown at night. It just makes the grapes different. “Altitude is a little challenge for growing grapes and the unpredictability of spring freezes is also a problem. Last year we lost our entire Muscat vineyard. On April 30, it got down to 25 degrees for six hours. Everything was dead to the ground.” The Muscat is a Corrales flagship wine. “There is none better,” claims Johnstone. “It completes the palate from front to back with peach, apricot and pear flavors forward and a citrus finish. The peach and apricot depends on annual growing differences.”
“Funny you should say. He used to bless the wine, now he makes it,” reveals Lucinda. “Yes, I was the Franciscan priest for Acoma and Laguna,” Father Antonio smiles sheepishly. “I wanted to grow and farm. First we tried corn, but what inspired us to grow grapes were three neglected 70-yearold vines we discovered on the property. We are so blessed." “Wine is an experience. It slows us down – it helps us to talk and to share.” The couple reveals that they are anxiously awaiting the results of the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, the largest competition of American Wines in the world. Their 2010 Gewürztraminer is entered. Melanie buys a bottle for good luck. Later that week we learn that it won a Silver. Divine intervention?
New Mexico Zia sun symbol balloon over the grape-growing Rio Grande Valley.
After driving around looking for Acequia Vineyards & Winery -- my Droid GPS keeps losing service in the hinterlands -- we leave Corrales to make it on time for dinner. At St. Clair Winery & Bistro, we started with a nosh of cheeses, olives, chocolate, grapes and homemade crostinis and tastings of their three brands: D.H Lescombes, Blue Teal and St. Clair. Whenever in northern New Mexico, I’m looking for northern New Mexican cuisine (God’s food) so I have to order the grilled chicken breast topped with cream sauce, green chiles and cheese: Chicken Picado ($13.) Had I’d known that the owner is French, I might have tried the French Country-inspired dishes. Melanie enjoys pork tenderloin with raspberry chipotle sauce ($13) and we both love the Lounge Jazz music and the restaurant’s energetic vibe. Stacey “Vagabonding Lulu” Wittig is a freelance travel writer based in Northern Arizona. Learn more about her travel adventures at www. vagabondinglulu.com.
62
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
Photo Courtesy of MarbleStreetStudio.com
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
POINT OF BREW
Straight Talk About Beer & Yeast Article & Photo By Thomas Ale Johnson
M
y parents gave me the middle name ‘Ale’, so naturally I expected there would come a day when they would sit me down and have a serious talk about beer. Time went by and that day never came. When I left home at 18, my parents had never even shown me a video of how yeast works. I was alone in the world, too young to buy a beer, and with only the most rudimentary comprehension of the metabolic pathways of fermentation. Needless to say, I experienced a brief period of drinking boring beer. The reason I’m writing this article is so that you can start a dialogue with your child -especially if you gave them an alcoholic middle nameand protect them from a cruel society that would have them believe beer is simply a lubricant to facilitate the movement of cheap pizza down the esophagus. What makes beer taste the way it does? There are flavors that come directly from the base ingredients. Malt (usually barley), hops, adjuncts (if any), even water quality and mineral content can have a major impact on flavor, but without the right yeast you’ll never get your desired flavor and aroma profile. When brewing was in its infancy, much depended on location. If you lived in an area that had great native yeasts or if your brewery just happened to harbor the right yeasts and bacteria, you had a much better chance of brewing a great beer. Thousands of years before the microorganisms (primarily yeasts and bacteria) used in making beer & bread were defined scientifically, they were being saved and stored for future use. Today you can walk into any home brewing shop and select from a wide array of yeasts and bacteria that have been reliably isolated and propagated to recreate classic beer flavor profiles. I highly recommend brewing the same beer recipe with various yeasts (or even the same yeast) at different temperatures if you’d like to witness first-hand the wide array of aromatic and flavor characteristics that can occur as byproducts of fermentation. All yeasts produce a broad range of esters and other flavor and aroma compounds as part of their metabolism. The flavors can range from fruity and floral (pear, apple, banana, orange, strawberry, roses, honey) to spicy and strong (cloves, pepper, earth) to unusual and odd (fresh
hay, cedar, bubblegum, butterscotch, leather, meat, smoke, wet wool, barnyard) to difficult and disturbing (mousy, medicinal, burnt rubber, nail polish, sewage). Many of these good and bad qualities result from yeast being stressed in one way or another. For the right beer with the right yeast a little stress can be good. For example, a Belgian style ale wort brewed with a Trappist ale yeast might produce: 1) a clean, refreshing and slightly earthy beer when fermented at 65˚ F, or 2) a complex & spicy beer with notes of apple, cherry, and leather when the same exact ingredients are fermented at 75˚ F, or 3) an overly fruity, cloying beer with cough syrup and creosote notes when fermented at 85˚ F. This great variety of aromatics and flavor compounds comes primarily from various strains of a single species of yeast, Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Yet, some of the strange qualities I mentioned are attributed almost exclusively to Brettanomyces. Usually, a beer or wine with Brettanomyces would be considered infected, but if properly controlled (and sometimes combined with other yeasts), a Brett beer can be truly amazing. In the Lambic, Gueuze, Oud Bruin and Flemish Red Ale styles, sourness, tartness and notes of barnyard, wet wool, and smoke can be surprisingly delicious. Some of these brewers still allow spontaneous fermentation by native yeasts either in the brewery or by letting air come in from outside and settle on the cooling wort. Here in Arizona, brewers like Fred Kraus show that they understand the importance of choosing the right yeast and using it in the proper way. His brewery, Oak Creek Brewing Co., makes an award-winning Hefeweizen in the traditional Bavarian style. Fred has even brought back yeast from Bavaria on occasion to use in certain special beers. You don’t need to be a brewer to talk about beer. If you’re serious enough about beer to name your kid after it -- have the talk. Show them that yeast video. If you feel you’re still not ready to broach the subject, buy your child a Rodenbach Grand Cru and save it until they’re 21. At least they’ll know you care about beer (and them). See more at http://www.scenicbrews.com/
Thomas is an experienced graphic artist and copywriter, he operates TRUST (the gallery), and he brews beer and makes wine. See www.willcoxtrust.com and www.tmf.net for more information
64
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
FEATURED BREWERY
CRAFT BREWERIES
Oak Creek Brewery
NORTHERN AZ
By Thomas Ale Johnson
Barley Brothers www.BarleyBrothers.com Beaver Street Brewery www.BeaverStreetBrewery.com Flagstaff Brewing Company www.FlagBrew.com Grand Canyon Brewing Company www.GrandCanyonBrewingCo.com Lumberyard Brewing Company www.LumberYardBrewingCompany.com Mogollon Brewing Company www.MogBrew.com Mudshark Brewing Company www.MudsharkBrewingCo.com Oak Creek Brewing Company www.OakCreekBrew.com Oak Creek Brewery & Grill www.OakCreekPub.com Prescott Brewing Company www.PrescottBrewingCompany.com
www.OakCreekBrew.com www.OakCreekPub.com
PHOENIX METRO
Oak Creek’s style tends toward crisp lagers and clean and subtle ales that pair easily with a variety of foods. If you keep your eyes on the seasonal taps, you’ll see that Head Brewer Jim Strelau & Brewmaster Fred Kraus produce various styles beyond the standard lineup with stronger ester or hop profiles and exotic ingredients. My favorite Oak Creek beer is the delicious Hefeweizen made in the traditional German style, with perfect notes of banana and clove. The balance and quality of a beer like this do not come without great care and attention given to the fermentation. It’s very good in the bottle, but take my advice and try it fresh and unfiltered on tap at the brewery. That’s when it really shines. Sedona, Arizona is home to both Oak Creek Brewing Co. & Oak Creek Brewery and Grill. Both locations have several beers for you to enjoy. Oak Creek beers can also be found on tap at many Arizona restaurants. Look for bottles of the Hefeweizen, Nut Brown, Amber Ale & Pale Ale in your favorite store.
Oak Creek Brewery 2050 Yavapai Drive Sedona, AZ 86336 (928) 204-1300
Oak Creek Brewery & Grill 336 Hwy 179 #D201 Sedona, AZ 86336 (928) 282-3300
BJ’s Brewhouse www.BJsBrewHouse.com
Papago Brewing www.PapagoBrewing.com
Dave’s Electric Brewpub www.DavesElectricBrewPub.com
Rock Bottom Brewery www.RockBottom.com
Four Peak Brewery www.FourPeaks.com
San Tan Brewing Co. www.SanTanBrewing.com
Gordon Biersch www.GordonBiersch.com
Sleepy Dog Brewing www.SleepyDogBrewing.com
Oggi’s Pizza & Brewing Co. www.Oggis.com
Sonoran Brewing www.SonoranBrewing.com
Sun Up Brewing www.SunUpBrewing.com
TUCSON METRO/SOUTHERN AZ Barrio Brewing www.BarrioBrewing.com BJ’s Brewhouse www.BJsBrewhouse.com Four Gentle Ben’s www.GentleBens.com Nimbus Brewing Company www.NimbusBeer.com Old Bisbee Brewing Company www.OldBisbeeBrewingCompany.com Thunder Canyon Brewery www.ThunderCanyonBrewery.com
ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM
ARIZONA VINES & WINES - SPRING 2011
65
Quick Reference to Arizona Vineyards & Wineries For Tasting Room addresses, please see individual map pages
Alcantara
Northern AZ
Verde Valley - 928.649.8463 alcantaravineyard.com
Caduceus
Jerome - 928.639.WINE caduceus.org
Javelina Leap
Cornville - 928.274.0394 javelinaleapwinery.com
Kind Vines
Flagstaff kindvines.com
Pillsbury Wine Co.
SE Arizona
Sonoita Area
Phoenix
Cottonwood - 928.639.0646 pillsburywineco.com
Casavino
Fountain Hills - 480.816.8466 casavinowinery.com
Callaghan
Elgin - 520.455.5322 callaghanvineyards.com
Four Monkey
Elgin - 520.455.9309 fourmonkeywines.com
Sonoita
Elgin - 520.455.5893 sonoitavineyards.com
Carlson Creek
Willcox - 520.766.3000 carlsoncreek.com
Erath’s Cimarron Willcox
Upcoming
Northern AZ Clear Creek Iniquus Cellars Cella Winery Cellar Dwellers Wine Co.
Sonoita/Elgin Casa Verde Hannah’s Hill Venado Cola Blanca
Arizona Stronghold
Cottonwood - 928.639.2789 azstronghold.com
Echo Canyon
Page Springs - 928.634.8122 echocanyonwinery.com
Jerome
Bitter Creek
Burning Tree
Jerome - 928.634.7033 bittercreekwinery.com
Cottonwood - 928.639.2789 burningtreecellars.com
Freitas
Granite Creek
Cottonwood - 928.639.2149 freitasvineyard.com
Chino Valley - 928.636.2003 granitecreekvineyards.com
Juniper Well Ranch
Juniperwood Ranch
Jerome - 928.639.9067 jeromewinery.com
Skull Valley - 928.442.3415 juniperwellranch.com
Oak Creek
Page Springs Cellars Cornville - 928.639.3004 pagespringscellars.com
Skull Valley - 928.442.9831 paintedladyvineyard.com
San Dominique
Sedona Woman Wine
Sycamore Canyon
Cornville - 928.649.0290 oakcreekvineyards.net Camp Verde - 602.549.9787 garlicparadise.com
Kokopelli
Chandler - 480.792.6927 kokopelliwinery.com
Canelo Hills
Studio Vino
Charron
Kief-Joshua
Lightning Ridge
Village of Elgin
Colibri
Sedona - 877.903.WINE artowine.com
Su Vino
Tempe - 480.897.1800 studiovino.com
Vail - 520.762.8585 charronvineyards.com
Elgin - 520.455.9309 elginwines.com
Painted Lady
Sedona sedonawomanwine.com
Elgin - 520.455.5499 canelohillswinery.com Elgin - 520.455.5582 kiefjoshuavineyards.com
Ash Fork - 602.971.8586 reunioncamp.com
Scottsdale - 480-994-8466 suvinowineryaz.com
Dos Cabezas WineWorks Sonoita - 520.455.5141 doscabezaswinery.com
Rancho Rossa
Elgin - 520.455.5383 lightningridgecellars.com
Elgin - 520.455.0700 ranchorossa.com
Wilhelm Family
Elgin - 520.455.9291 wilhelmfamilyvineyards.com
Coronado
Crop Circle
Portal - 520.558.2401 colibrivineyard.com
Willcox - 520.384.2993 coronadovineyards.com
Willcox - 520.384.3022
Fort Bowie
Keeling-Schaefer
Lawrence Dunham
Bowie - 888.299.5951 fortbowievineyards.net
Willcox - 520.766.0600 keelingschaefervineyards.com
Pearce - 520.82.GRAPE lawrencedunhamvineyards.com
SouthEastern AZ Asmundson Family Aridus Wine Company Becker’s Pecan Ranch Broken Glass Gallifant Cellars Golden Rule Odyssey Cellars Ruby Sunrise
Saguaro Canyon Sándor Sand Reckoner Sierra Bonita Soaring Spirits Vineyard Tombstone Wayward Winds Winery Zarpara