Arkansas Wild | Summer 2023

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ARKANSAS WILD

SUMMERTIME

VIBES

BEAVER LAKE HAS IT ALL!

AGFF HALL OF FAME: ENSHRINED FOR ALL TIME

CELEBRATE INDEPENDENCE DAY

BEST CAMPING GEAR FOR SUMMER

JUNE 2023 ARKANSASWILD.COM
COOL DOWN ON BEAVER LAKE. See page 12.
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4 | Arkansas Wild | JUNE 2023 JUNE 2023 ARKANSASWILD.COM 8 OUTDOOR ESSENTIALS 12 EXPLORE: BEAVER LAKE 14 EXPLORE: EUREKA SPRINGS 16 OUTDOOR DIARY 38 WILD EVENTS DEPARTMENTS 18 WILD AND SCENIC THE PADDLERS ENCOUNTER THE MIGHTY ARKANSAS RIVER 24 HEART OF THE WILDERNESS HIKING ARKANSAS’S BACK COUNTY 32 ARKANSAS OUTDOOR HALL OF FAME A NEW CLASS ARRIVES FEATURES ON THE COVER: Scenic Beaver Lake is good for what ails you this summer. Photography: Arkansas Department of Parks Heritage and Tourism
4 | Arkansas Wild | MARCH 2023
ED WALL/WALL MEDIA Jim Ronquest, formerly of Rich-N-Tone, member of the Arkansas Outdoor Hall of Fame.

Jonathan Rushing is a native Arkansan who has wandered the woods and waterways of The Natural State for most of his life. Desk jockey by day, he takes any opportunity he can to escape outdoors to hunt, fish, golf or hike.

ARKANSAS WILD

ARKANSASWILD.COM FOLLOW US FOR MORE WILD

Brian Hurley lives, teaches, and writes in Fayetteville, Arkansas, with his wife, Ana, and two sons. He has traveled extensively through the state by foot, bike, train and, most recently, by canoe. He hopes to sleep on the ground in all of Arkansas’s 75 counties.

#ARKANSASWILD

BROOKE WALLACE Publisher brooke@arktimes.com

DWAIN HEBDA Editor dwain@arktimes.com

MANDY KEENER Creative Director mandy@arktimes.com

LESA THOMAS Senior Account Executive

LUIS GARCIAROSSI Account Executive

SOMMER THROGMORTON Account Executive

WELDON WILSON Production Manager/Controller

ROLAND R. GLADDEN Advertising Traffic Manager

MIKE SPAIN Advertising Art Director

ROBERT CURFMAN IT Director

CHARLOTTE KEY Administration

JACKSON GLADDEN Circulation Director

ALAN LEVERITT President ©2023 Arkansas Times Limited Partnership 201 E. MARKHAM ST., SUITE 150 LITTLE ROCK, AR 72201 501-375-2985

All Contents © 2023 Arkansas Wild

6 | Arkansas Wild | JUNE 2023
Stephanie Smittle — a native of Cave Springs, Arkansas — is editorial director for the Arkansas Times, a musician and a firm believer that time spent in nature should be accessible to everyone.
CONTRIBUTORS
This ad is paid for with a combination of state funds and private regional association funds. Experience Summer in Arkansas Experience Summer in Arkansas ARKADELPHIA • CADDO VALLEY • GLENWOOD • HOT SPRINGS • MALVERN • MOUNT IDA • MURFREESBORO Five Lakes, Three Rivers, Endless Adventures Become a Rock Collector on the Arkansas Rocks! Trail In Full View 5 Stays to Experience the Eclipse & Night Sky DiamondLakes.org @HotSprings_ ARKADELPHIA • CADDO VALLEY • GLENWOOD • MALVERN • MOUNT IDA • MURFREESBORO vacation guide Scan to request a FREE Hot Springs/ Diamond Lakes Guide. diamondlakes.org @HotSprings_DiamondLakes Summer is here in Arkansas, and that means it’s time for fun in the sun! Whether you want to play all day on five lakes and three rivers or scream for joy at Magic Springs Theme & Water Park, you can always find adventure in Hot Springs & the Diamond Lakes Region. We can’t wait to welcome you!

2

SHOP LOCAL FOR THIS GREAT CAMPING GEAR. 1 4

3

FOR THE WOODS 6

8 | Arkansas Wild | JUNE 2023 OUTDOOR ESSENTIALS
READY

1. HOME, SWEET HOME

Eureka! Copper Canyon tents regularly get top marks for construction, features and durability, including rock-solid frame construction, remarkably easy setup and a size to fit any group. It’s an investment, but if you’re gonna rough it, rough it with style. Get it at Bass Pro. (basspro.com)

2. NIGHTY-NIGHT

Our ancestors slept on the ground because they didn’t have the Anthracite 30° sleeping bag by Big Agnes, offering lightweight, eco-friendly recycled insulation and lots of other high-grade features. But you don’t have that problem, do you? Get one at Pack Rat Outdoor Center. (packratoc.com)

3. DON’T FORGET FIDO!

Keep your best buddy in sight with the Crag Collar by Ruffwear. Comfortable material, easy side-release buckle and reflective thread for nighttime visibility makes this collar a winner, not a whiner. Equip your fluffer at Pack Rat Outdoor Center. (packratoc.com)

4. LIGHT THE NIGHT

Buy the tool that does triple the work! The Streamlight Siege X is a rechargeable workhorse that offers three light modes including red light, white light and flashlight, that can cast up to 155 meters. Hey, it gets dark out there, tough guy. Sold at Fort Thompson. (ftthompson.com)

5. DON’T OVERTHINK

THINGS

From your prize catch to your favorite brews, keep your cool with a YETI brand cooler. Durable construction that lasts for years, keeping your stuff cold for days on end. It’s not rocket science, folks; the only question is what size to get. Grab yours at Fort Thompson. (ftthompson.com)

6. SNACK IN STYLE

Picnic tables are icons of nostalgia, but sometimes you just want a chianti by yourself, y’know? The easy-to-set-up Table One by Helinox provides a hard surface after a hard day. Available through Ozark Outdoor Supply. (ozarkoutdoor.com)

7. A REAL BRUTE

When it comes to versatility, the ultracompact Hults Bruk Jonaker hatchet takes the cake. Splitting firewood, hacking down tent poles or hammering in stakes, this little number isn’t flashy but it gets the job done, season after season after season. Find yours at Pack Rat Outdoor Center. (packratoc.com)

8. DOUBLE YOUR PLEASURE

Year in and year out, Eagles Nest Outfitters hammocks are rated among the top hammocks for ease of use and durability. The DoubleNest ups the ante by providing enough room for two sleepy souls. Find it at Ozark Outdoor Supply. (ozarkoutdoor.com)

9.

SIPS FOR YOUR TRIP

If your idea of camping is never being out of sight of a snack bar, you probably don’t need the military-grade water filtering muscle of the MSR Guardian purifier. But for everyone else there’s no better investment. Get one at Ozark Outdoor Supply. (ozarkoutdoor.com)

10. PACK A BAG

You never know what your lazy camping trip will turn into. For those spur-of-themoment side excursions, reach for the Kuhl Eskape 25, offering a large main compartment and smartly placed pockets and pouches to handle your gear. Available at Fort Thompson. (ftthompson.com)

ARKANSASWILD.COM | 9
8 9 10

SOAK UP E RY MOM T SU .

The Arkansas Game and Fish Commission provides plenty of ways to fill your summer days.

• Hiking, driving and water trails

• 9 nature centers

• Hundreds of public fishing areas

• 5 shooting ranges

SCAN ME Find your next summer adventure. Brought to You by

LEAVE IT TO BEAVER

HEAD TO BEAVER LAKE AND VICINITY FOR FAMILY FUN AND ADVENTURE.

As the summer season hits high gear, it’s time for people both inside the state and out to get their vacation plans on the books. And with gas prices being what they are, more people than ever are looking for a low-cost option that’s not too far from home, yet still packed with activities and amenities.

That’s where Beaver Lake comes in, a shimmering jewel that’s drawn people to Northwest Arkansas for generations. Offering miles of shoreline and situated near Rogers and Eureka Springs, Beaver Lake provides the best of the natural world as well as man-made delights.

GET READY TO GET WET

Created in the 1960s with the completion of Beaver Dam that impounded a major section of the White River, Beaver Lake boasts 487 miles of shoreline and 28,000 acres of clear water for swimming, boating, fishing, paddle boarding, water skiing and just plain luxuriating.

For an unusual excursion, consider exploring the craggy reservoir via a diving adventure. Favored spots include the ruins of Monte Ne resort that went under (get it?) in the 1930s and was flooded by the creation of the lake itself. Here, you can snorkel through the sunken amphitheater, once part of the Oklahoma Row Hotel. The lake holds other surprises throughout, including

submerged boats, cars and statues, in some spots 300 feet below the surface.

Or set out by paddleboard, kayak or canoe and tour the shoreline, letting your eyes wander to the forests, towering limestone bluffs and natural caves. Get the best of both land and water by beaching your craft and taking a stroll along one of the many nature hikes that criss-cross through the woods.

To truly get away from it all, check out the more than 2,000 acres of campground, which contain over 650 individual campsites. If you’re looking for something a little less rustic, there are always an ample selection of vacation home rentals, cabins and lodges.

Outfitters in the area include Beaver Lake Outdoor Center in Rogers or War

12 | Arkansas Wild | JUNE 2023 EXPLORE
ARKANSAS DEPARTMENT OF PARKS HERITAGE AND TOURISM The mere sight of Beaver Lake is refreshing.

Eagle Outfitters in War Eagle. For lodging, check out Beaver Lake Cottages, Sun Ridge Resort or Beaver Lakefront Cabins in Eureka Springs or simply search one of the many Airbnbs available around the lake.

ANY FISH YOU WISH

Beaver Lake is renowned for its largemouth bass fishing but is also home to a variety of other sportfish including stripers (which can grow to 50 pounds), smallmouth bass, crappie, sunfish, walleye and catfish among other species. Fish from the bank or a watercraft or spend a day in the soothing tailwaters by the dam to experience some of the best fly-fishing anywhere in North America.

Numerous fishing guide services throughout the area can help ensure every member of your party has a successful outing.

RELATED THRILLS

In between floats or dives, there’s plenty of other activities nearby to keep the whole family entertained. In Eureka Springs, you’ll find a variety of outdoor entertainment, especially of the two-wheeled variety. Three mountain biking trails offer plenty of thrills to match your skills, from the bunny Genesis trail at the Great Passion Play to the widowmaker Double Black Diamond at Lake Leatherwood. Afterward, make the short ride back to downtown Eureka Springs to share stories, compare rashes and enjoy a cool one — if you survive.

Also, don’t miss Onyx Cave, a low-key but visually dazzling experience a few miles northeast of town. Offering self-guided audio tours, Onyx possesses wonderful natural formations and overhangs, some featuring water. Best of all, the subterranean environment stays a cool 50 degrees or so, even in the dead of Arkansas summer.

Meanwhile, in Rogers, hike or bike in Hobbs State Park and its famed Monument Trails. These easy to moderate trails accommodate hikers and cyclists alike, with two trails — Sawtooth and Timberjack — reserved for downhill bike traffic only. Or travel the Hidden Diversity trails, open to pedestrians, mountain bikers and visitors on horseback.

Also worth a stop is War Eagle Mill, a spot as scenic as it is historically significant. The working Benton County gristmill dates back to 1832 and has been rebuilt three times in its history. In addition to the beautiful scenery, enjoy fare from the on-premises restaurant and visit the store for the perfect souvenir.

If you’re looking for a relaxing and entertaining getaway, Beaver Lake and its surrounding communities offer a wealth of options that are easy on the budget and right in your own backyard.

ARKANSASWILD.COM | 13
Hobbs State Park is a natural wonder. War Eagle Mill shines by the water. Hop on and hang on for Lake Leatherwood's trails.

STAY UNIQUE

EUREKA SPRINGS IS FOR ANYONE WHO MARCHES TO A DIFFERENT BEAT.

Eureka Springs is like that odd cousin every family seems to have – offbeat, nonconformist, sure; but if you take the time to get to know them, you realize the world isn’t the same without them. Long considered a hippie enclave of free thinkers and creative types, Eureka Springs has ripened into the kind of place where you expect the unexpected. Which is especially comforting seeing as how the rest of Northwest Arkansas has steadily lost its funk and gone all respectable-like.

As the summer vacation season hits high gear, it’s high time for people both inside the state and out to rediscover this nutty, friendly and altogether fun spot in the Ozarks. Whether a long weekend, a destination wedding or attending one of the many community festivals, you’ll find things move to a little different beat and thank heaven for it.

Here are few things to whet your appetite:

NATURAL BEAUTY

Nestled into the emerald Ozarks,

Eureka Springs offers everything a nature lover could want, from mountain trails to woodland paths to water. Within a short distance you’ll find the outdoorsy playground of Beaver Lake, a craggy man-made reservoir that offers no end of entertainment. Whether on the water via boat, paddleboard or water skis or taking advantage of the lake’s renowned fishing, a visit to Beaver Lake offers something for the whole family to enjoy.

Another popular draw is the nearby Kings River that, in the nonconformist spirit of Eureka Springs, flows northward. Generally a smooth, easy paddle in the summertime, the Kings River is crystal clear and beckoning for a swim on a hot summer’s day. The shoreline holds other wonders, including rock overhangs and swimming holes fed by waterfalls. Check with a local outfitter for directions and tips for navigating this often-overlooked natural wonder.

Be sure to visit Black Bass Lake, offering a non-motorized boat launch, picnic area, several fishing spots and two wooden bridges. Be sure to experience

Standing Rock, a vertical sandstone remnant that protrudes from the depths of the lake along Standing Rock Trail. Or, hike the Bluff Trail hugging the St. Joe geological formation and amazing limestone outcroppings with overviews of the lake that run just above Sycamore Spring Trail.

Speaking of trails, Eureka Springs offers miles for hiking and mountain biking to suit any level of fitness or ability. But for those looking for the ultimate test of skill, experience the Lake Leatherwood Gravity Trail Project, a collection of four gnarly routes that will get your heart pounding. Check out the local cycle gurus at Adventure Mountain Outfitters for advice on tackling these thrilling rides.

And don’t miss Onyx Cave, which provides a fascinating underground look at The Natural State. An easy way to spend an afternoon, the self-guided audio cave tour takes visitors through millions of years of geologic history. Natural formations, overhangs and a comfortably steady 50 degrees make this

14 | Arkansas Wild | JUNE 2023 EXPLORE
ARKANSAS DEPARTMENT OF PARKS HERITAGE AND TOURISM Find your fun in Eureka Springs' famous downtown.

subterranean attraction something you don't want to miss.

EVENTS

Eureka Springs is fun on its own, but throw in one of the festivals that crowd the calendar up there and you’ll see the city at its best. Some interesting attractions this year include the 2023 Great Race Eureka Springs (June 28), where 120 vintage vehicles will make a lunch stop during their cross-country race from St. Augustine, Florida, to Colorado Springs, Colorado. Visit the drivers and see the vintage autos before they roar away to continue the race.

Celebrate Independence Day early at Lake Leatherwood Jamboreeka (July 2) and enjoy live music, hiking, kids activities and a fireworks show after dark. Or get fabulous in your jammies for a cause and attend Patti’s Pajama Drag Brunch (Aug. 5) supporting nonprofit organizations in NWA.

And that doesn’t even begin to include the many regular music and arts events held at local bars and other venues every week up there, some of it in public spaces and much of it free. Enjoy the tunes with a locally brewed beer with not one but two breweries in town to choose from; Gotahold Brewing (try the malty-sweet Bermuda Schwartz) and Eureka Springs Brewery (the cream ale is excellent).

CHOW

On the topic of food and beverages, there’s a little something for every palate and mood in town, from tasty dives (Cathouse, Rowdy Beaver Den) to bistros (Three Sisters, Nibbles Eatery) to more upscale options (Le Stick Nouveau, Grotto Wood Fired Grill & Wine Cave). Best of all, the chains and fast food are few and far between so it's easy to sample local flavors there.

Whatever you crave this summer, it’s a good bet Eureka Springs will fill the bill. So pack your freak flag and get ready for an unforgettable experience.

For more things to do and see, check out visiteurekasprings.com.

ARKANSASWILD.COM | 15
1,242-acre trail system for 4-Wheel Drive Vehicles, UTVs, ATVs, and Dirt Bikes. Campground includes Cabins, RV Spots, Overlanding, Tent Sites, Showers, Event Pavilion, and Convenience Store. Open 7 days a week, year round, rain or shine. HotSpringsOffRoadPark.com • 501-625-3600 NEW!! SidexSideRentals &GuidedTours PLAN YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE. ARKADELPHIA ♦ CADDO VALLEY ♦ GLENWOOD ♦ HOT SPRINGS MALVERN ♦ MOUNT IDA ♦ MURFREESBORO This ad is paid for with a combination of state funds and private regional association funds. DISCOVER MORE OF THE DIAMOND LAKES REGION THIS SPRING. Visit diamondlakes.org to request a free Hot Springs/Diamond Lakes Vacation Guide. Canoeing • Kayaking • Hot Tubs • Fishing • Biking • ATV Trails • Horseback Riding 870-326-4630 Oden, Arkansas RiverViewCabins.com BEAUTIFUL CABINS OVERLOOKING THE OUACHITA RIVER! WANT TO ADVERTISE IN THIS SECTION? Contact Lesa Thomas lesathomas@arktimes.com 501-258-8745

MEN PLAN AND GOD LAUGHS

Two longtime friends share the ups and downs of duck hunting.

For many years Chris Menard, an old college buddy, and I closed out duck season together on public land. As our friends often reminded us, these trips were heavy on fellowship and short on preparation. Actually, they were nothing short of a rodeo.

To start with, the lodging was always questionable. At its best it was a guest room at a family member’s house, and at its worst it was an old farmhouse with more rats than heat. It was all part of the adventure.

As a matter of fact, the accommodations weren’t the biggest challenge of the annual weekend. We often found ourselves lost, being far too masculine to require the service of a GPS. Or we were often plagued by some mysterious mechanical problem such as a fussy pickup that refused to run without fuel. Or, there was the time I grabbed the wrong gun case and arrived at the boat ramp with a deer rifle, forcing Chris to trade volleys via one shotgun passed back and forth as the gadwalls dipped in.

Although many of these weekends are worth recounting at our expense, one stands out. In 2017 we were more mature — pushing 40, no less. We had learned lessons, had better equipment and tended

to be better prepared. In fact, several uncommon things happened prior to this trip: We scouted, Chris tuned up his boat and everything was fueled. We were full of superiority as we sipped coffee at the ramp before launch.

This particular morning was very cold. Chris ran the motor as I scanned the edges of the boat ditch with a spotlight, making our way toward a nearby lake. With the cold temperatures, the shallow water was locked up and the ducks were in open water.

Reaching our spot, we plowed the boat into brush for concealment. As we tied up to a large cypress, Chris revealed another surprise — a boat blind that had been installed the night before. It sprung up effortlessly, and again we celebrated how well we were adulting.

From there, things felt as if they were really going well. As daylight started to break, we talked with smug pride about our concealment, warmth, dryness and the fact that a few ducks were buzzing around. Chris asked if I wanted a shot of coffee before the action started. I removed my shotgun from its case, placed it against the front of the blind and turned to grab the cup.

I’m not sure what happened next. In

hindsight, we’d hypothesize that a pin popped out of the blind; I had likely snagged it earlier. But exactly how my Benelli flipped over that partially collapsed top, I’ll never know. I froze, made eye contact, and asked, “Was that my …?”

Chris handed me my coffee, intoning matter-of-factly, “Yep, that was your gun.” He was never known for theatrics, but I was beside myself. And just like that, our mature façade evaporated, revealing our old youthful shenanigans huddling underneath.

We bungee-corded a paddle to a navigation pole, which required me to remove clothing and get a good portion of my body into the water to have a chance at locating the submerged shotgun. Eventually, we identified the clink of metal below, but it was impossible to snag.

Chris then launched a new plan. We would mark the tree on GPS, drive to the ramp and get the heater rolling in the truck, then return for my swim before making our way back to a warm truck. A good plan had I stopped to think about it, but I was rattled.

“I’m just going in for it, then we can make the ride to the truck,” I announced.

16 | Arkansas Wild | MARCH 2023
OUTDOOR DIARY
What some guys will go through for a string of greenheads, like the author’s here.

Chris paused, sipped his coffee and grinned.

“You think you could get that thing out with a garden hoe? ’Cause I have one in the back of my truck,” he said, his tone maddeningly calm even in the face of my emergency.

I still question if he remembered that hoe all along and just wanted a picture of me swimming in the icy January water, only to reconsider at the last moment before I dove in. Either way, the garden implement made quick work of the retrieval. And now that the frigid cold was lifting and bluebird skies were above, we took a ride in the timber scouting for the following day. No more than a few minutes in, greenheads exploded from a hole, the sign around us confirming this is where they wanted to be.

We cleaned the mud out of my shotgun,

loaded it with dry shells and went to work on greenheads as they put on a late-season show silently floating into a small, secluded hole. It was a great hunt, flagged in my mind by good shooting, good company and avoiding the loss of my favorite shotgun.

And, true to form, there was one more nod to the calamitous that had always seemed to mark our adventures for future reliving. I managed to float my hat and my dignity by stepping in a root ball retrieving the first duck.

ARKANSASWILD.COM | 17
WE
OF SUPERIORITY
SIPPED COFFEE AT THE RAMP BEFORE LAUNCH.
SCOUTED, CHRIS TUNED UP HIS BOAT AND EVERYTHING WAS FUELED. WE WERE FULL
AS WE
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PART 2: A RIVER JOURNEY TURNS FROM WILD TO MILD BY BRIAN

Just out of earshot of Bluff Hole Park at Mulberry, the river changed abruptly. Any remaining current vanished and the still, murky water perfectly reflected the trees that now grew right along the edge. The sun came out along with the bugs. It seemed a long ways away from the cool rapids and gravel bar we set out from earlier that morning.

As we passed under the remaining half of an old train bridge, we came upon the first boat we’d seen in 20 miles. An old man named Dale in a bass boat paused his fishing to chat about where we’d come from. He gave us directions to the mouth of the river, telling us to stay left and warning that it could get tricky.

Dale was correct. The river widened to a mile, looking more like a lake, and with the lack of a current, we were left to guess what was the main channel and what was a cove. Finally, off in the distance, we could see what appeared to be the mouth of the Mulberry, flowing out into the Arkansas River. Soon, a boat came speeding toward us and eventually we could see that it was just Dale. He had come to check on us and make

18 | Arkansas Wild | JUNE 2023
The author grins in between frequent bailing on the first leg of the journey.
ARKANSASWILD.COM | 19 Located on the White River • Flippin, Arkansas • 870-453-8066 • Stetsons-Resort.com Ad paid for with a combination of state and Ozark Mountain Region funds. World-Class Trout Fishing on the White River Beautiful Cabins • Large Pool • Open Year-Round Corporate & Large Groups/Meals • Winter Discounts All that’s missing is YOU! Cotter, AR 72626 HIS PLACE RESORT + CRANOR’S GUIDE SERVICE Gotaquickquestion? Text870-421-7665 Ads paid for using a combination of state and Ozark Mountain Region funds. Located on the White River • Flippin, Arkansas • 870-453-8066 • Stetsons-Resort.com Ad paid for with a combination of state and Ozark Mountain Region funds. World-Class Trout Fishing on the White River Beautiful Cabins • Large Pool • Open Year-Round Corporate & Large Groups/Meals • Winter Discounts All that’s missing is YOU! RELAX & RECONNECT 129 County Road 640, Mountain Home, AR Call or text (870) 425-4221 • rileysoutfitter.com • Riverfront Family Lodging • Kayak and Boat Rentals, • Guided Fishing Trips • River Adventures Come enjoy one of our many attractions: family lodging, canoe and kayak, guided fishing and boat rentals

sure that we’d found the correct path. He also offered us water. We thanked him and headed to the first island in the Arkansas River that had a beach suitable for camping.

The Arkansas River is an entirely different sort of thing than the Mulberry, and is far from meeting any of the National Park Service’s criteria for being wild, scenic or recreational. Like many rivers of its size nowadays, it is, in fact, entirely manufactured — more of an industrial machine than a natural feature.

Through practically all of the state of Arkansas (except for the first few miles at the mouth), the Arkansas River is part of the McClellan-Kerr Navigation System. The most obvious features of this system are the locks and dams that raise and lower boats and turn much of the river into lakes. Less visible, perhaps, are the rocks that line the banks to prevent erosion and the jetties that keep the water flowing through the main channel. That channel is marked by red and green buoys the entire length of the system. Beaches such as the one we camped on at the mouth of the Mulberry only exist because of the way the river has been structured by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers since the 1970s.

Nevertheless, despite officially being off the Mulberry and on the McClellan-Kerr Navigation System, we were, at that point, more isolated than we’d been before. There were no humans around for miles and certainly not on our quarter-mile long island. We set up the tent, made a small fire, cooked our lentils and sipped whiskey while listening to the fish jump about.

Setting out the following morning, we found canoeing on the Arkansas to be much different than on the Mulberry. Where previously the job mostly involved steering and dumping water from rapids, now it was just relentless paddling. There is little current to speak of, so drifting is not really an option on the Arkansas. Any headwind could send a boat like ours back upstream. It started to rain steadily and the only thing to do was to put our heads down and try to coordinate strokes to be as efficient as possible.

Apart from the occasional eagle or barge spotting, the scenery changed very little. At each bend, and with each drop of rain, we kept hoping to see the next bridge, which would indicate our planned lunch break in Ozark. By the time we saw it, we were thoroughly soaked and getting cold.

While Ozark is one of the few towns directly on the Arkansas River, there is no clear access point. We pulled up on a small sandbar, then walked half a mile on the railroad tracks, climbed through weed-choked ditches and emerged downtown. By that point, we were both shaking with cold. The air conditioning of the one restaurant that was open didn’t help, but the coffee did, a little. The rain continued, so we spent the rest of the afternoon attempting to warm up in the antique mall.

GEAR UP FOR ADVENTURE

Choose your gear wisely when planning your own Arkansas paddling adventure.

BUFFALO CANOE

Year in and year out, Buffalo Canoes are rated among the top craft you can buy. These heirloom boats are built to exacting standards using only the finest components and crafted to last a lifetime. Buffalo Canoes are proudly built here in Arkansas, so you can show your state pride while you float on the state’s tides. buffalocanoemanufacturing.com

SAWYER PADDLE

Propel your excursion with the top-of-the-line Sawyer Voyager Canoe Paddle, as responsive in the water as it is beautiful to look at. Made from laminated Western Red Cedar and Douglas Fir wood, reinforced with fiberglass and trimmed in Dynel ToughEdge, the Voyager delivers incredible feel and control. Also available in a bent shaft model which reduces fatigue in flat water. paddlesandoars.com

ASTRAL LIFE JACKET

Be ready for anything on the water with the Astral E-Ronny life jacket. This comfortable device is cut thinner where it counts to reduce bulk, without sacrificing performance. The design provides a comfortable fit and range of motion for all-day paddling or fishing. Rated an Editor’s Choice by GearLab.com for 2023. astraldesigns.com

20 | Arkansas Wild | JUNE 2023
Hurley takes time to go for a dip while his wife Ana explores a rapid.
Paid for with a combination of state and Greers Ferry Lake/ Little Red RIver Association Funds. Photo Credit: Debbi Brawley © All rights reserved. Son, I discovered a new place. Check out this view! Can’t wait for you to see it. So many places for us to “Get Lost ”. SeeYouSoon!Love Dad
Greers Ferry Lake There’s only one m Go to visitgreersferrylake.com for our free area guide.

BACKPACKING THE EAGLE ROCK LOOP TRAIL IS A CHALLENGE AND A WONDER.

Meet the Eagle Rock Loop, a 28.2-mile hike in the Ouachita National Forest. To call it a single trail is a bit misleading; it’s actually three trails — the Little Missouri, the Viles Branch Horse Trail and the Athens-Big Fork Trail. Those three paths meet to form a scenic and wildly varied circle that makes up the longest loop trail in Arkansas.

Expect to see a large contingent of out-of-state plates on cars at the various parking areas; this trail is stunning and the secret’s out. Winding Stairs is among the most beautiful spots in the Ouachitas — or the state, for that matter — and when the trail’s not intertwining with the Little Missouri River, it’s snaking through lush thickets on a canopied old horse trail or switch-backing up rocky mountaintops.

STAYING SAFE

Water crossings on the Eagle Rock Loop are, for much of the year, among your primary safety concerns. The Little Missouri River is no joke. Waters swell and recede rapidly, and after flash flooding in 2010 resulted in fatalities at the Albert Pike Campground, measures were taken to gauge water levels on the Little Missouri with increased vigilance. Check the U.S. Geological Survey’s real-time data at waterdata.usgs.gov/monitoringlocation/07360200/ before you go; an impassable water crossing can make or break your hiking trip. Bring trekking poles, and avoid hiking when levels are above 4.5 feet.

LET’S TALK ABOUT MONEY

You can absolutely backpack in Arkansas without dropping hundreds of dollars — especially if you’re only planning on being out for a couple of nights and especially if you avoid the winter months. A couple of tips for keeping your backpacking budget in check:

Borrow gear shamelessly and liberally. Is there anyone in your circle of family or friends who spends a lot of time outdoors? You may well be able to borrow the bigger-

ticket items you’ll need for a backpacking trip — a tent, a sleeping bag and a sleeping pad — so you can try before you buy.

If your outdated gear could use a refresh, Facebook groups like Backpacking Arkansas are great places to scout out opportunities for swapping used gear.

Wondering what you need? Check out the gear list in the sidebar or one of the myriad of great lists online; talk to the knowledgeable folks at Ozark Outdoor Supply; and always make sure you have the 10 Essentials.

Skip the dehydrated backpacking meals. A macronutrient-rich packet of Chicken Pho from Good To Go is going to be both tasty and convenient, but it’s definitely not your cheapest option. Plus, there’s no reason to buy an at-home dehydrator until you’re pretty sure backpacking is going to be something you do regularly.

Low-cost trail food like peanuts, oatmeal, chocolate, vacuum-packed tuna, red lentils (not brown, they take forever to cook), instant coffee and instant rice are easy to come by at the grocery store and make great outdoor meals. Pro tip: Check that kitchen drawer where all the forgotten takeout condiments live. Your unused packets of mayo, hot sauce, soy sauce, ketchup or Parmesan are perfect additions to a camp meal.

What you pack for Eagle Rock Loop depends on the time of year you go, whether you’re doing the whole loop or just a section and, of course, your level of experience and comfort.

HIKING THE LOOP

How best to approach the loop — clockwise or counterclockwise? From which starting point? — depends on who you ask. For my taste, hiking clockwise beginning at West Blaylock Creek (N34.381914 W093.961959 UTM 83) was the right way to go because it allowed me to split up the Athens-Big Fork section of the trail, so as not to slog through the toughest peaks on the trail in a single day.

Part of staying safe is knowing what your body can (and

24 | Arkansas Wild | JUNE 2023
Eagle Rock Loop offers prime rustic hiking and camping.

Your hike is your own, and you can do it however you want.

Breathtaking vistas and tranquil campsites await the intrepid visitor. Keep them enjoyable by leaving no trace.

26 | Arkansas Wild | JUNE 2023

wants to) do on a hike. There’s a whole subculture of hiking vlogs and outdoor influencers who obsess over clockwatching their thru hikes, but it doesn’t mean you have to do likewise. I took every bit of three days to do a hike that some people whiz through in two or less, and I have zero regrets.

I took spurs to expansive vistas and then perched atop them for the better part of an hour. I sipped tea by rushing creeks. I stopped frequently on steep uphill climbs (I’m looking at you, Brush Heap Mountain). Most of all, I took my time. You can, too; your hike is your own, and you can do it however you want. If you’re a beginner and not sure what your hiking pace might be, get a good map and pick out a section to do overnight — the Little Missouri Falls trailhead to the Winding Stairs trailhead would be lovely.

CLOSING THE LOOP

Did you know you can (or could, at least, at the time this publication went to press) write off for a cool embroidered patch upon completion of the Eagle Rock Loop? Thanks to a donation from a Mr. Philip Strickhausen, you can call up the CaddoWomble Ranger District’s office and ask that they send you proof positive that you hiked the loop. Slap it on your denim jacket so you can signal other people who have completed the trail and talk about how cool it is. (If you don’t have a denim jacket, what exactly are you waiting for?)

ARKANSASWILD.COM | 27

WHAT’S IN MY PACK

You’ll always and forever need the 10 Essentials, but outside of that, there’s room to customize. Here’s how I pack my 45-liter backpack for the 30-ishmile trek:

THE 10 ESSENTIALS

• Navigation — I bring a compass and map of the trail laminated at Kinko’s to protect it from rain

• Headlamp (rechargeable or bring extra batteries)

• Sun protection

• First-aid kit; choose a backpackingspecific kit for items that help with blisters

• Pocket knife

• Shelter, such as a tent (with rain fly preferred) or hammock

• A way to start a fire: I brought matches, a rechargeable electric lighter and fire starter chips

• Extra water/water treatment

• Season-appropriate clothing (remember, it gets colder than you think)

• A day’s worth of extra food, just in case

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WHAT ELSE I BROUGHT

10 Essentials, plus:

• Inflatable sleeping pad, inflatable pillow

• 30-degree sleeping bag (even in the summer!)

• Pooping-in-the-woods sack: trowel, toilet paper

• Kula cloth or “wilderness wipes”

• Water filter (and treatment tablets as a backup)

• Water reservoir for scooping up unfiltered water

• Water bottle for filtered water

• Food and critter-proof food canister

• Toothbrush and a dab of toothpaste squeezed into a Ziploc

• Notebook and tiny pencil

• Bandana (also useful as a potholder)

• Camp lantern plus extra batteries

• Cookset: camp cup, fuel canister, backpacking stove, lightweight cooking pot, spork

• Bug spray

• Chapstick

• Trash bag

• Duct tape

• Phone battery bank and charging cord

• Sunglasses

• Rain jacket

• Spare pairs of socks/underwear

• Fleece vest or windbreaker (yep, even in summer!)

• Crocs for wearing at camp or crossing water

• Emergency whistle

• Bear spray (I’ll likely never use it in Arkansas, but I do know how.)

• Car key, attached to a gear loop inside your bag so it doesn’t fall out

• Driver’s license

• Base layer clothing: lightweight pants, long-sleeved shirt

• Foldable sun hat

• Hiking boots

ARKANSASWILD.COM | 29
Camera-ready scenes abound at Eagle Rock Loop, all year long.
This trail is stunning and the secret’s out.

Arkansas Outdoor Hall of Fame set for August in Little Rock.

The Arkansas Game and Fish Foundation will officially induct the 32nd class to its Arkansas Outdoor Hall of Fame on Aug. 26 in Little Rock.

Established in 1982, AGFF’s mission supports Arkansas Game and Fish Commission initiatives, particularly those engaging children and youth in the outdoors and outdoor activities. Proceeds from the induction banquet support the year-round work of the Foundation, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization that serves as the fundraising adjunct to the AGFC, helping introduce hundreds to the joy of the outdoors every year.

“For more than 100 years, the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission has worked to conserve the state’s wildlife resources, thanks to the selfless contributions of people such as our 2023 slate of inductees and award winners,” said Deke Whitbeck, AGFF president. “We are delighted to be able to celebrate these success stories and the outstanding individuals behind them.”

The inductees include Jim Ronquest of Stuttgart, Tom Foti of Cammack Village, Bob Barringer of Little Rock and Ronnie Ritter of Hot Springs, the Morrell Family of Alma, and Brenda and Larry Potterfield of Columbia, MO.

ED WALL/WALL MEDIA 32 | Arkansas Wild | JUNE 2023

JIM RONQUEST

Jim Ronquest, a lifelong outdoorsman and well-known entrepreneur, helped develop two of the Mid-South’s most iconic outdoor brands. Following a long and distinguished career with Rich-NTone duck calls of Stuttgart, he’s now vice president, development with Mississippibased Drake Waterfowl, a manufacturer of technical hunting and fishing apparel.

The Missouri native also won the World’s Championship Duck Calling Contest in 2006 and was instrumental in launching and growing an outdoor hunting program, RNT-V, featuring Rich-N-Tone’s owner, John Stephens. He’s also Ducks Unlimited’s 2019 Conservation Communicator of the Year and is soon to be inducted in the Legends of The Outdoors Hall of Fame.

“I’ve been able to do what I’ve done in my career because of the opportunities the outdoors have given me,” he said of the Hall of Fame honor. “But the outdoors is not there just for the taking. We all enjoy a good hunt and that’s why we go back, whether it be catching a string of fish, stringer of ducks, or long beard turkey or big old buck deer. But if we don’t take care of the outdoors, it won’t be there to take care of us.”

ARKANSASWILD.COM | 33
Outdoors enthusiast and entrepreneur Jim Ronquest calls 'em in.

BOB BARRINGER (left) RONNIE RITTER (right)

Recognizing the problem of hunger in the state, Bob Barringer founded Arkansas Hunters Feeding the Hungry in 2000 to help connect a portion of harvested deer with those in need. Shortly thereafter, Ronnie Ritter signed on to lead the mission-driven organization.

“I didn’t get into this for any personal gain whatsoever; I just wanted everybody to have something to eat,” Barringer said. “The only way we were able to do what we’ve done is by having faith in ourselves, having faith in the Lord, and praying a lot about it.”

Today, Arkansas Hunters Feeding the Hungry has processed tens of thousands of pounds of meat through a network of processors statewide, distributing the venison to needy families through food pantries and other organizations addressing hunger in Arkansas.

“Talking to the teachers and school counselors across the state about little Johnny or little Susy coming to school and they can’t learn because they’re hungry, those stories are just heartbreaking,” Ritter said. “To see the eyes light up on some of these people at the food pantries, like the one the other day that got 1,200 pounds of meat, it’s just very gratifying to know how we’re serving the community and making a difference.”

“I didn’t get into this for any personal gain whatsoever; I just wanted everybody to have something to eat.”
—BOB BARRINGER
“It’s just very gratifying to know how we’re serving the community and making a difference.”
—RONNIE RITTER
BRIAN CHILSON
34 | Arkansas Wild | JUNE 2023
Barringer and Ritter have helped feed thousands statewide.

TOM FOTI

For years the state’s foremost ecologist, Tom Foti is widely credited with bringing science to the natural area preservation movement in Arkansas. While he was in graduate school, the first Earth Day was celebrated and it gave the Pine Bluff native a glimpse of the work that would define his career.

“I realized that there was plenty to be done in ecology,” Foti said. “I’d actually started work on a Ph.D. in mathematics at the University of Arkansas, but when Earth Day came along I decided it was time for me to do what I really had determined to do already, which was save the world.”

Foti’s career with the Arkansas Natural Heritage Commission resulted in the creation of several important natural areas in the state, particularly in the West Gulf Coastal Plain of southwestern Arkansas, and served as a model for similar efforts nationwide. Moreover, he vastly improved people’s understanding of, and appreciation for, Arkansas’s rapidly vanishing natural prairies.

“At the time, people were just not aware how Arkansas, this wonderful, forested state, once had, I’ll say, well over a million acres of prairie, originally. Building the awareness of our state’s prairie heritage was a big accomplishment for me.”

“I decided it was time for me to do what I really had determined to do already, which was save the world.”
—TOM FOTI
BRIAN CHILSON
ARKANSASWILD.COM | 35
Nature Boy Tom Foti, the father of Arkansas's natural areas.

The Morrell Family Alma, Arkansas

When Dale Morrell perfected his revolutionary archery target in the 1980s, his first customer was Walmart, which tells you all you need to know about the lofty place Morrell Targets holds in the outdoors sporting goods market. Today, Morrell Manufacturing produces hundreds of thousands of targets annually, each one reflecting the care and passion of the family behind the brand.

“In the 1980s, a lot of the available targets weren’t of high quality or they weren’t economically priced. Dad’s patented floating center design changed everything,” said Tanner Morrell, director of marketing and Dale’s son. “Since then, we’ve maintained that same spirit of innovation which has allowed us to continue to produce a top-quality product at an affordable price.”

The Morrell name also stands for community-mindedness, having relentlessly invested in oncoming generations of archers through the National Archery in the Schools Program, Archers USA’s Varsity Archery and the Archers USA organization, which Dale Morrell created. The family enters the Arkansas Outdoor Hall of Fame as the Steve Smith Spirit of Giving Award recipients.

“We’ve always operated on the idea that if you’re in an industry you need to give back in some fashion,” Tanner Morrell said. “We’re proud to support archery programs that impact people’s lives in a meaningful way.”

MORRELLTARGETS.COM
“We’re proud to support archery programs that impact people’s lives in a meaningful way.”
—TANNER MORRELL
36 | Arkansas Wild | JUNE 2023
Dale Morrell, creator of the Morrell archery target.

Larry & Brenda Potterfield

Columbia, Missouri

The husband-wife team of Larry and Brenda Potterfield launched Missouribased MidwayUSA as a small gun shop in 1977, growing it into one of the country’s largest suppliers of shooting and hunting supplies while maintaining a culture of family values, honesty, integrity and respect for others.

“In business, you make good decisions and bad decisions. You don’t have to make all good decisions to be successful, but you can’t make too many bad ones or you’ll just be somebody who might have been a player,” Larry said. “We’re pleased to be where we are in the shooting sports industry today.”

The couple strives to maintain their family-first culture with each employee added to their growing team and take a similar approach in their philanthropic efforts through the MidwayUSA Foundation. Established in 2007, the organization provides sustainable funding to youth shooting sports teams across the nation, making them fitting inductees for the Arkansas Outdoor Hall of Fame and Legacy Award.

“I would say that we are humbled and honored by this honor, but nothing we do is for the recognition of ourselves,” Brenda said. “It is all for how we can make the world a better place when we leave.”

JOIN THE CELEBRATION!

The 2023 Arkansas Outdoor Hall of Fame Banquet is slated for the Statehouse Convention Center in Little Rock on Saturday, Aug. 26. Arkansas Game and Fish Foundation board member T.J. Lawhon and his wife, Mandy, will co-chair the event, which will include dinner, raffles, a silent auction and the induction ceremony. Doors open at 6 p.m. for reception and silent auction; dinner will begin at 7 p.m.

Tickets for the banquet are $150 with tables of 10 available for $1,500 each. To purchase tickets to the event, visit the Foundation website (agff.org) or by simply texting “FISH” to 243–725. For more information, contact the Arkansas Game and Fish Foundation office at (501) 223-6468 or email agff@agff.org.

“We’re pleased to be where we are in the shooting sports industry today.”
—LARRY POTTERFIELD
Sporting goods entrepreneurs Larry and Brenda Potterfield are longtime supporters of shooting clubs for youth nationwide.
ARKANSASWILD.COM | 37
MIDWAYUSA

LET FREEDOM RING!

The summertime is all about getting outside, spending vacation time with kids out of school and, of course, celebrating Independence Day with family and friends. Arkansas is full of community festivals and events to help you make the most of the summer months. Here are a few for you to enjoy with your favorite people.

Dates and details are subject to change, so make sure you check in with organizers before making plans.

DON’T MISS THESE EVENTS!

JULY 3

FREEDOM FEST

Conway

Why wait until July 4 when you can celebrate a day early? Make it a fourday weekend by attending Freedom Fest in Conway and enjoy live music, food trucks and, of course, fireworks at dark. Take it all in from your lawn chair at a prime spot around Beaverfork Lake. freedomfestconway.com

JULY 4

FREEDOM 5K/10K

DeGray Lake Resort State Park

Bismarck

Don your most patriotic outfit and run, walk or march over your choice of distances, 5K (3.1 miles) or 10K (6.2 miles). Beautiful lake views and cooling breezes off the water make for a spectacular running experience on a combination trail and paved surfaces. All ages and abilities are welcome.

SUNRISE HIKE

Pinnacle Mountain State Park, Roland Greet the dawn atop Pinnacle Mountain with this park interpreter-led hike up the side of one of Central Arkansas’s most treasured landmarks. The hike is free; bring a headlamp and plenty of water to the West Summit Trailhead by 5 a.m. sharp.

FLEET FEET FIRECRACKER FAST 5K

Little Rock

A Central Arkansas tradition stretching back generations, the Firecracker is a mandatory part of many people’s Independence Day celebration. Starting in the Heights and ending outside War Memorial Stadium, the entirely downhill course lives up to its name. firecrackerfast5k.raceroster.com

ANNUAL DEVIL’S DEN GAMES

Devil’s Den State Park, West Fork

Take a step back from technology and video screens to enjoy a celebration of simpler times. A fun-filled day of family-oriented events awaits, including horseshoes, egg toss, sack races, softball tournaments and more, set in one of the most picturesque spots in The Natural State. Events scheduled for Area E ball fields. Visit arkansasstateparks.com for an updated schedule of events.

POPS ON THE RIVER

Little Rock

Little Rock’s Independence Day celebration brings locals and out-of-towners to downtown for a celebration that includes fireworks over the Main Street Bridge.The event also includes multiple music performances, including a culminating concert by the Arkansas Symphony Orchestra. Plenty of food and beverage vendors will also be on hand throughout the event. littlerock. com

JULY 15

BATTLE FOR TOWNSEND’S RIDGE

Rogers

An exciting cross-country mountain bike race, part of the Arkansas Mountain Bike Championship Series. Register at bikereg.com/btr.

JULY 15-16

WHITEWATER SAFETY FOR PADDLERS

Malvern

A two-day course stressing self-rescue and rescuing others in a river environment. Among topics covered will be whitewater swimming techniques, wading in moving water, boat-based rescues, tethered rescues, knots and much more. Sign up at arkansasoutdooroutfitters@yahoo.com.

JULY 22

BULLFROG

Dover

VALLEY BIKE BASH

A gravel race with two route options including the grueling Bullfrog Route (53 miles) and Pilot Rock Ramble (20 miles). The event will feature an after-party at Moore Outdoors with food, beer, music and floating. Visit arkansashighcountry.com/bullfrog-valley-bike-bash for more information.

JULY 27-29

WATERMELON FESTIVAL

Cave City

Experience the friendly rivalry around who grows the state’s best watermelons by attending the Cave City festival. Three days of fun and activities, including a parade, fishing derby, 5K and various events centered on the town’s celebrated fruit.

JULY 30

ARKANSAS STATE CRITERIUM CHAMPIONSHIP

Springdale

It all comes down to this! The state criterium championship cycling races in downtown Springdale. The best racers of the season will be on display, battling it out for top honors. Register at bikereg.com/ark-state-crit.

AUG. 10-12

WATERMELON FESTIVAL

Hope

Not to be outdone by Cave City, the Hope Watermelon Festival will feature numerous activities including food, entertainment and the intriguing drama of the Watermelon Olympics. Come have a good time at one of the most well-recognized festivals in Arkansas. hopewatermelonfest.com

38 | Arkansas Wild | JUNE 2023 WILD EVENTS
Grab a slice this summer at watermelon festivals in Hope and Cave City. ARKANSAS DEPARTMENT OF PARKS HERITAGE AND TOURISM
BEAR CREEK LOG CABINS 6403 N HWY 65 | ST. JOE, AR | 870.448.5926 | BUFFALORIVERLOGCABINS.NET YOUR HOME AWAY FROM HOME. NATURAL DARK SKY ACCOMMODATION - WILDLIFE WATCHING - PRIVATE ATV, HIKING & BIKING TRAILS - 6 CABINS AVAILABLE 5 MINUTES SOUTH OF THE BUFFALO NATIONAL RIVER - SWIMMING & FISHING - BEAR CREEK PAVILION AND RV SITES Ad paid for using a combination of state and Ozark Mountain Region funds.

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