armour. armourmag.blogspot.com
FALL 2013
1
“Fashion is the armor to survive the reality of everyday life. To do away with fashion would be like doing away with civilization.� - Bill Cunningham.
2
6 7 10
in this issue Childhood Trends Revisited In Instagram Fashion Styles and Spaces
8 A Queen Within
22
The Art of Trying to Act Like You’re not Trying 24 Philip Lim 3.1
25 Cold Neck? Solution 26 All Black Everything 27 Leather: Friend or Faux? 28 Rule Breaking, Style and Hari Nef 30 Layering
14 Denim on Denim
DIY or DYE 32 Headphones on Campus 34 Color of the Year: Emerald 35 Winning Streak 36 Sick Frames 46
16 Old School Appeal
3
armour. Editors-in-Chief Sarah Mae Ettinger Neha Nair Camil Sanchez-Palumbo Editors Priyanka Reddy Lily Sullivan Director of Layout Becca Shuman Director of Photography Bonner Williams
Layout Team Casey Federbusch Sophie Krueger Shelby Lindblad Delaney Lundquist Alix Marson Grant Phillips Becca Shuman
Contributors Amanda Bass Mary Bishop Talia Brody-Barre Lindsay Callahan Reilley Dabbs Sydney Davis Alexis Kirton Becky Savitt Chelsea Velaga Tiffany Lin Rebecca Gitomer Molly Radin Founders Jacob Lenard Felicia Podberesky Chantal Strasburger
4
Photographers Hannah Blumer Rachel Catanese Lizzy Chalsen Alex DeRosa Sarah Mae Ettinger Bonner Williams
letter from the editors While writing our first letter as editors-in-chief, it occurred to us that we had some big shoes (specifically, oxfords, big chunky platforms and snedges) to fill. Our first attempt was to look up funny quotes about the changes that come with fall. However, our results were questionable to say the least. Has anyone ever heard of the saying, “Never swap horses crossing a stream?” Because no one on Armour has. Regardless, the issue you are about to read probably epitomizes whatever that means. Here is our take on it: Fall is a time of transition – both of new students to Wash U and of a new staff to Armour. As we begin our time as editors-in-chief our goal is to preserve the legacy that Chantal, Jacob and Felicia left us while continuing to capture the essence of Wash U style. The fall issue embraces change as a style philosophy. Armour focused on ways to push the boundaries of conventionality and tradition, while still retaining its grounded sense of identity. Consider reviving and updating looks that aren’t from the past decade (or five). If your favorite childhood trends were plastic chokers and scrunchies, GO FOR IT – we all know Neha did (see proof on pg. 6). There is nothing wrong with using the past to push your style in a new direction. However, if you don’t want to look back to your own childhood, you can always turn to the classics to revamp your style. Our vintage inspired shoot with model Arielle Ross proves that grandma sweaters are still the bee’s knees on page 16. In this issue we sought to not only revive the past, but also to promote creativity in the least expected places. So naturally we hit up the club sports teams and played dress up during a few of their practices. If you’ve ever wanted to witness a rugby team tackling each other while wearing bowties please see page 44. Ultimately, it doesn’t take drastic measures to change one’s style. The beauty of change in fashion is that it can subtle and still be impactful. And, as always, Get your armour on.
Camil Sanchez-Palumbo Sarah Mae Ettinger
Neha Nair (P.S. It’s pronounced AR-mour. Think that shiny stuff on knights.)
5
Childhood Trends Revisited by: neha nair I have been experiencing overwhelming waves of nostalgia lately. Perhaps it is the onset of senior year that has caused the nauseating hourglass feeling that our time in college is running out. Everything we do could be for the last time. “#tbt” is not so much an enjoyable recollection of past events as it is a reminder of how old we are. Maybe I’m being overly dramatic, but I have certainly found a coping mechanism to counteract this irrational fear of growing up.
6
As an elementary school kid, there was a squiggly tan line permanently imprinted around my neck. It was due to the fact that I refused to ever take off my tattoo choker necklace – tattoo chokers, scrunchies, beaded platform sneakers. These accessories would not be out of place at a 1998 birthday party. They have found their way back into my wardrobe in recent months. And yes, inserting anachronistic articles of clothing into my daily outfits is a total “clinging-to-my-last-vestiges-of-youth” move. As college students, we’re considered youths. Why not wear tattoo choker necklaces while we can still get away with it? You may be wondering, why would I wear tacky 90s clothes at this age instead of trying to refine my style? Don’t worry—90s clothes may seem tacky in the context of, well, the 90s, but adapting individual 90s-inspired pieces into modern-day wardrobe couldn’t be easier! Don’t feel like complicating an outfit with a statement necklace? Why not opt for a geometric, tattoo-like choker for an understated point of interest? Subtle at first, but a sure conversation starter when a fellow millennial sees the faint outline of squiggly elastic and exclaims, “I HAD ONE OF THOSE WHEN I WAS NINE!” I had this exact exchange when I unearthed my choker for the first time in 12 years at Pitchfork Music Festival this summer. Speaking of music festivals, what kind of footwear enhances a concert viewing experience more than platform sneakers? The answer is none—added height equals a less obstructed view. Thicker soles give sneakers the attention they deserve: a simple shoe with attitude. Something about approaching the end of my college years makes me feel like this is the youngest I have ever been. I won’t hesitate to exploit this phase of my life by reverting to a more juvenile style. If you have been experiencing similar feelings of nostalgia, come talk to me. I’ll be the one wearing a Backstreet Boys t-shirt and polka dot platform sneakers.
7
8
9
10
10
11 11
1212
13 13
DENIM on
Denim
AMANDA BASS, PHOTOGRAPHY BY HANNAH BLUMER The Canadian tuxedo. The joutfit. Whatever you call it, denim-ondenim can look modern and fresh without looking fresh off the ranch. We all have our closets piled high with denim. Skinny jeans, cut-offs, chambrays, and jean jackets are those closet staples you can pair with anything, but why not rock them together? Trust us, it’s so simple and, if you do it right, looks effortlessly cool. Here are some tips to help the denim-on-denim look work for you:
14
1
Invest in a good chambray shirt — you’ll be surprised just how many outfits you can wear it with.
2
Make it your own! Denim paired with denim can be super versatile. It’s all in the styling. Break up the blue monotony by adding fun accessories like a chunky necklace or a skinny belt.
3
To tuck or not to tuck? Give the front-tuck a try. Loosely tuck in part of the shirt — it’ll give you that just rolled out of bed look.
4
A sleeveless chambray is a great way to take the look from season to season. Wear it now as a vest over a cute tee or dress or layer it in the fall with a crew neck sweater on top - you’ll still get the collar peeking out at the neck but don’t have to worry about fitting the sleeves in your sweater.
5
Integrating prints and patterns is an easy way to pull of the look. Pair polka dot shorts with a basic denim piece on top for a fun take on the trend.
6
Still scared to try it? The no-fail way to rock denim on denim is to pair a light colored chambray shirt with dark wash skinny jeans. The more contrast, the more your look will avoid that bad, washed out 90s vibe. (Remember the Britney and Justin red carpet matching denim on denim?)
7
Feeling adventurous? Expand your denim on denim repertoire from basic jeans, shorts and chambrays and try the look with a dress or chambray circle skirt.
15
16
Old School Appeal
Photography by Bonner Williams 17 Model: Arielle Ross
18
19
20
21
T
he only thing harder than trying to look good, is trying to look like you’re not trying. Based on my personal experience, the look/lifestyle began as a reaction of trying super hard in middle school and climaxed senior year of high school when it became a competition. There was a period of time where my friends and I didn’t brush our hair and would see how long we could go wearing the same pair of leggings – participating in no-shave November was practically obligatory. While gross it was also fun to get validated for being lazy. However, once I reached August of my senior year summer, I realized that I spent so much time trying to remove myself from “trying” that I didn’t own any clothing I actually liked. Then the cycle repeated itself and I started trying again. The summer before my freshman year of college I bought a neon lace top. Imagine! Sorry, I try to not style shame, but gross. And it gets worse - I was flipping through the channels recently and witnessed a girl on the Disney channel wearing said tank. Of all places, the Disney channel teen costume department must be the holy grail of clothing that’s trying really, really hard. Now that I’m entering my junior year of college I feel like the ‘IDGAF’ look is coming back. I’m older, I’m cooler, and I really don’t care what you think about my style…except that I do. Because if I truly didn’t care what you think I would probably wear PJs and bizarrely mismatched clothing all the time. But I don’t. My clothes match and sometimes I find myself looking like a practical young mom who enjoys the Gap. Dressing for Loufest
THE
A R T
T RY I N G
OF
TO LO O K L I K E
YO U ’ R E N OT
T RY I N
22
my roommate asked me if I thought her earrings worked with her outfit. I thought about it and told her they were too much. My roommate looked at me, crinkled her nose, and continued to add a chunky necklace, neon platform shoes, and a funky up-do. All of the sudden her earrings were no longer too much and fit well into her ensemble. And not only that – she succeeded in looking like she didn’t care what people thought about her- the entire goal of trying to look like you’re not trying. And that, my friends, is the key to looking like you’re not trying – by trying. Sort of. The key to looking like you’re not trying is showing off the cool/weird stuff in your closet and being spontaneous about it. Clothing should be flattering and weather appropriate but besides that, you should let yourself be a little crazy. Unless you’re a freshman, in which case I have a really cute neon lace tank that would probably look great on you…
Written and Illustrated by Mary Bishop
G
23
3.1 Written by Lily Sullivan Photography by Sarah Ettinger Last month, Target released another of its fabulous designer collaborations. Since its announcement earlier this spring, the much-anticipated 3.1 Phillip Lim for Target Collection has fashion industry heavy hitters and shopaholics alike buzzing. In an effort to witness the chaos, get a look at the affordable fashions and do some shopping ourselves, the Armour team took a field trip to the nearby Target on the morning of the release. The faux leather goods were the most talked about of the collection, as the bags and totes resembled Lim’s high-end line. The collection featured pastel ready-to-wear pieces, including cigarette pants and an almost-sold-out khaki trench coat, along with darker business separates. We were very impressed with the prints and graphics, especially the comic “Boom” print and the bold cheetah print. We weren’t the only WashU students to get in on the action either. We ran into roommates Beth Pearl Barr and Claudia Frovola in the dressing rooms with matching cheetah print outfits. Check out this collection in stores and online before it sells out.
24
Cold Neck?
Solution. written by: rebecca gitomer True Story: I wore turtlenecks until I was twelve. This all unfortunately ended quite abruptly when a girl jokingly licked the sleeve of my favorite one, so I did what any logical person would do in this situation and threw them all away. I guess since then I always related turtlenecks to bad memories and as a result, have found them strange and unappealing. However, they are making a comeback whether you believe me or not and I’m feeling surprisingly excited about it. Maybe it’s nostalgia for my twelveyear-old glory days, or maybe it’s the challenge of making something conventionally unattractive look normal and unexpectedly stylish that makes me eager to take this trend for a test drive. Here is proof that turtlenecks are here to stay. During New York Fashion Week this past month, multiple designers included the trend in their Spring 2014 Ready-to-Wear collections. Some favorites of mine include pieces from Alexander Wang, Pierre Balmain, and Christian Siriano. …And now for the tough part. How on earth do you incorporate this up and coming trend into your wardrobe? Here are some ideas: Grungy = cropped turtleneck + high-wasted skirt + leather wedges Chic = structured turtleneck dress + strappy heels + gold bangles Casual = cozy turtleneck sweater + leggings + studded booties As the chill of fall approaches, all the necks in the world prepare themselves for another miserable six months. Don’t neglect yours any longer! It seems like opting for a turtleneck is the only solution. Seriously though, I kid you not when I say this is a worthwhile investment. If someone gives you a hard time for going out of your comfort zone, just put some ice on his or her neck. They’ll be wishing they were wearing a turtleneck too. 25 Photo Sources: Jak & Jil, Now Fashion, Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue
all black everything By Chelsea Velaga
If all your clothes are black, you never have to worry about matching! The end. But, seriously: monochrome is chic as hell, and black goes with everything (especially more black). And no, it doesn’t make you moody or lazy, but it also won’t automatically make an outfit stylish; there’s a certain balance that monochromatic outfits require. Apply the same creativity to an all-black outfit as you would a more colorful ensemble. If anything, going monochromatic requires even more work since you could easily end up looking like a depressed adult-crayon. Quick pairings like a t-shirt over charcoal skinny jeans is always fair game or maybe try out the up and coming “little black cape.” Here are a couple pieces that’ll spruce up a black palette and play up volume any day.
Madewell
Topshop Dorothy Perkins
Paolo Errico
Jeffrey Campbell
26
Cape: www.yoox.com / Skirt: www.madewell.com / Shirt: us.dorothyperkins.com Boots: www.motelrocks.com / Blazer: www.us.topshop.com
FRIEND OR FAUX?
LEATHER:
Written by Lindsay Callahan What was first utilitarian in its pur
Marc by M arc Ja cobs, $1
98
300 rt, $
via +Oli
Alice
Dr. M arten s
i er Sk Leath
Boot,
$130
pose to keep Native Americans warm during cold winter nights has evolved into one of the most pervasive trends of the 21st Century. People of all places, backgrounds, interests, and beliefs, from Air Force pilots to Harley Davidson bikers, have eagerly partaken in the leather jacket trend. Despite their differences, they have each utilized the material to represent their respective individuality. But in the hands of such insulated and intimidating groups, leather has become mistakenly perceived as inaccessible. Many people wrongly assume that they are not “cool” or “hipster” enough to wear leather, or refuse to sport it in deference to a vegan moral code. I argue that the contemporary leather trend can be available and accessible to everyone. There are countless styles – leather accents on plain t-shirts, faux-leather leggings, brightly colored biker jackets and A-line skirts – to appeal to varying tastes, budgets, and personal ethics. The beauty of fashion is that it allows us to participate in the trends with which we most strongly identify to the degrees at which we feel most comfortable. That is why we all need to give the material a chance. Leather should not be confined to its historical associations, but explored as a modern fabric that takes many shapes in fashion. There are so many ways to use and wear leather – either faux or genuine – so why not give it a try?
27
Rule Breaking, Style & Hari Nef written by: becky savvit I met Hari when we were both 14 at a creative arts camp in the Boston suburbs. Hari immediately struck me as someone who cared about fashion as well as their outward appearance. Perusing Facebook a year or two ago I noticed they* were tagged in a picture with Riccardo Tisci—the head designer of Givenchy. In the photograph, Hari’s face was piled with blue makeup. After seeing pictures like this crop up more and more I felt as though I had to interview them and find out what their take on personal style was and how it could translate to the everlasting quest of bringing more spirit and experimentation to Wash U. style. *Hari prefers the pronoun “they” rather than “he” or “she”.
When did your interest in fashion begin? HN: When I started watching America’s Next Top Model, which was probably when I was about 12 or 13. It was a mix of those two things that incited me to look at fashion more closely—fashion as an industry, a vocabulary, and philosophy. In what ways did your personal style change at the time? HN: My first big change in my personal style came with my discovery of emo/scene culture when I was 13. I began to dye my hair, dress in black, in bands tees, etc. What was behind those style decisions and your exploration of new ideas? HN: It was about communication. My identity was developing, and I could say a lot by implementing that development in the way I looked. I was eager to make statements and be noticed. I still am. What drives your curiosity for different cultural scenes? Would you say this appreciation factors into your aesthetic? HN: Whichever aesthetic I found myself latching onto usually represented some hyper-specific aspect of my personality or consciousness. My middle school years were dark, so I was focused on that. Things began to pick up in high school, so my style quite literally did as well. What I consumed out there in the suburbs was the sum of individual cultural influencers trickling down into a few punch lines, buzzwords, styling cues. But when you get up closer to these cultural/stylistic events, the nuances from person to person become much clearer.
28
What would you say about your daring appearance? HN: I don’t think what I wear is very daring by itself. I think it’s “daring” that I wear it, but the clothes themselves are usually very conservative. Someone asked me to describe my personal style in three words recently, and I said “grotesque It Girl.” What’s daring is that my body is a male body and I wear womenswear. Have you had a lot of negative reactions to wearing women’s clothing? Or positive? HN: More positive than negative, but of course I have had both. I used to get more shit for it when I was less comfortable doing it. Now that I’m more comfortable, I think there’s a vibe that people respond to. People always say things like “I could never pull that off.” When did you feel like you were really “pulling things off ?” HN: I think it’s just a desensitization that happened. When you put on those clothes, you break a big rule. After I broke it a few too many times it wasn’t as big of a deal. It became effortless. John Stuart Mill talks about “experiments in living,” and I think it’s good to seek those out where one can. Dressing can be a big part of that. Everyone is so different, and we’re not necessarily given as many options for all this stuff as each one of us needs to feel comfortable. You have to take care of it yourself. And realize your comfort and happiness is more important that the sanctity of whichever rule you’re breaking.
“I was eager to make statements and be noticed. I still am.” In what ways can people—college students in particular— avoid boxing themselves into certain style or life choices? HN: I think college is just a stage when you find fewer and fewer excuses to be obsequious about “who you are” and “what you want to do.” You have to be selfish and go with your gut instincts and refine from there. In a way, seeking and finding distinction like that makes everything easier. It narrows your playing field.
If style is pretty selfish and personal, what are your thoughts on giving style advice to others? Why does what others think matter? HN: I think shows like ‘Fashion Police’ and ‘Say Yes to the Dress’ are bullshit because someone else’s style is being impressed onto a person who ostensibly “needs it.” Style has a lot to do with what you choose that lies outside of you, but the choice is the focus. It’s very personal. I think style advice always has to be taken with a grain of salt. It’s offering a choice. Do people ask you for your style opinions? If they do, do you respond? HN: Not often! If they do, I have to preface whatever I say with “well, personally...” The whole idea of some queen wagging her finger and saying “honey” and skipping off to go pick out the right dress makes my stomach turn. It’s violent, actually, telling someone they’re wrong for something very personal. Where do you see your style heading in the future? What’s its trajectory? HN: I guess it’s open. I used to be concerned with being so out-there and vibrant and transgressive. Right now the most transgressive thing to be a bit more “normal.” Context defines my style in a lot of ways. What looks plain or boring or weird becomes something else when you get to me know me or get to know what I’m doing or what I want to do, or what seems vibrant or crazy becomes boring again. Every morning it’s a crazy ceremony of really choosing 29 something I want to wear and look like, and then when I walk out the door I forget about it. Mostly.
LAYERING LAYERING SYDNEY DAVIS Fall weather can get pretty confusing. One day it’s in the low 70s and the next it’s barely 50 degrees. Not to mention those brisk fall mornings where you seriously question your outfit selection. Fortunately, layering is big this season, and with a few key pieces, you’ll be stylishly prepared for any weather. Clothing from Madewell.com, Barneys.com, Forwardforward.com, & Aritzia.com
Sleeveless chambray This can be a shirt with long sleeves, short sleeves, or whatever kind of sleeves you prefer, but I find that sleeveless is the best for layering under heavier tops and sweaters. This way, you get the same collar and look of a long-sleeved shirt without getting overheated.
SIMPLE SWEATERS
30
These are the essential sweaters you can layer with a chambray top or any patterned or bright collared top. Try unusual combinations of colors and textures or pairing the look with a statement necklace.
Oversized cardigans Possibly the best trend ever created in my opinion, these sweaters are loose, cozy, and have an effortlessly stylish look that can’t be beat. Whether you’re throwing it on over a dress with boots or pairing it with leather leggings on a chilly day, these sweaters are amazing and unbelievably easy. They are also in almost every store right now, so you can find the style and pattern that fits you best.
Vests Vests are the perfect way to add layers without overheating. They’re highly versatile and come in many textures and shapes. The material of the moment is leather, but tuxedo-style vests are also timeless and work well with many body types.
Thick button-down This top serves two purposes: You can layer it under sweaters or other tops and you can wear it open over t-shirts and tanks. These shirts are perfect to throw over a skimpy top and leggings when you’re running out the door or as cute alternative to the average jacket.
31
3232
33
Headphones on Campus by priyanka reddy photos by rachel catanese Want to inject a little personality into your library uniform? Large, over-theear headphones in bright colors and unique finishes are on-trend and can be highly personal. Cool headphones might even help you study better— you can’t possibly fall asleep when you’re blasting music into your bright orange pair, right? With the variety of colors, textures, and shapes, there’s a pair for everyone. Big headphones can add toughness to girly ensembles and give wardrobe basics new life. The next time you’re heading to Olin for an all-night study session, ditch the ear buds and rock to something a little more fun.
34
Color of the Year:
Emerald
By Talia Brody-Barre + Sarah Ettinger
In the beginning of 2013, Pantone announced Emerald as the color of the year. Their color specialist described the hue as “lively…radiant…[and] lush. “[It is]…a color of elegance and beauty that enhances our sense of well-being, balance and harmony.” Throughout the year, Emerald has been presented in many facets of social life – from fashion and home décor to film and literature. Designers use the color as both a substitute for basic black and navy staple pieces and also as a brilliant accent color. On the runway, it has taken over designer lines by the likes of Michael Kors, Stella McCartney, Burberry and many more. It is safe to say that this jewel tone will become a staple of your autumn wardrobe. Its sophisticated and luxurious undertones are a sure way to glam up any classic fall color palette.
MIA shoes, $49
Kate S
pa
one de iPh
Ca
0 se, $4
Reb
ecca
Min
koff
bag
, $2
25
35
winning
36
streak Wash U athletes dish aces both on and off the field, sporting gold medal worthy looks to prove it. Never has a rugby squad looked more Gatsby dapper or a lacrosse team looked good enough to make Blair Waldorf jealous. Tennis couples don their best retro whites, while the ultimate Frisbee team makes hipster cool look too easy. Admire these jocks’ nonchalant swag and athletic moves, but don’t be fooled—these are not your average uniforms.
37
THE WALDORF EFFECT:
Women’s Club Lacrosse Team, Photography by Alex DeRosa and Sarah Ettinger
38
39
THE ULTIMATE CATCH:
Men’s Ultimate Frisbee Team, Photography by Hannah Blumer and Sarah Ettinger 40
41
42
MATCH POINT:
Club Tennis Team, Photography by Lizzy Chalsen and Sarah Ettinger
43
‘OL SPORT:
Men’s Club Rugby Team, Photography by Hannah Blumer and Sarah Ettinger
44
45
No. 4
No. 5 No. 1
B Y S Y D N EY D AVI S Although contacts are my everyday source of vision, I enjoy the occasional nerdy and sophisticated look of wearing glasses. Given I have had corrective lenses since the fourth grade, I definitely considered laser
No. 2
eye surgery‌ For about ten seconds. There’s nothing quite like rocking a sick pair of frames that says something distinctive about you and your style. While spending the summer in New York City immersed in the fashion industry, I saw some of the most beautiful specs I have ever laid eyes on. From bold colors to interesting shapes, everyone has their ideal pair. I have compiled a
No. 3
collection of some of the best frames I could find, inspired by real people making poor vision look trendy. 1. Marc Jacobs MJ449 AYA, smartbuyglasses.com 2. Oliver Peoples-Elins in Grey Gradient, mysunglassoutlet.com 3. Lacoste L2648 in Light Havana, eyeglasses.com 4. Lacoste L3604 in Black, framesemporium.com 5. Ray-Ban RB5248 2013 in Dark Blue, ray-ban.com
46
want to get involved? armourmag@gmail.com www.armourmag.blogspot.com
47
a. 48