When Does Inspiration Become Appropriation?

When I open the doors to my closet I am greeted with a variety of colors, patterns, and styles, many of which were inspired by someone else. Whether it was when flipping through the pages of a magazine or passing by trendy mannequins in the mall, some visual inspired me to buy and wear those items. Maybe I could see myself in a cable-knit sweater, drinking herbal tea in an aesthetically pleasing coffee shop. Or I could imagine myself looking as edgy as the girl in the picture modeling a vegan leather jacket. I borrowed someone else’s style and made it my own, which is perfectly fine. Sometimes.

In an industry that is brimming with varying forms of beauty, it is almost guaranteed that there will be an exchange of ideas. Creativity often comes hand in hand with collaboration. However, it is always important to be aware of the culture from which our fashion choices originate. Global lifestyle correspondent Jenni Avins wrote on the importance of not crossing the line between appreciation and appropriation, noting that, “Someone else’s culture or race—or an offensive idea of it should never be a costume or the butt of a joke.” She points to the Washington Redskins football team as an example of how, through our form of dress, we can “perpetuate negative stereotypes and [pour] salt into old wounds”^.

In a day and age in which racial tension is on the rise, awareness and cultural sensitivity are crucial. In the world of fashion, the aim is to engage in a beautiful medium of self-expression which, in turn, can and should be freeing. The key phrase here is ‘can be.’ The magic of fashion comes alive when fun can be had and freedom can be found. However, it is up to us to see that its outcomes do not necessarily bring joy for some and can often instead induce pain and frustration in others.

Fashion & Culture Expert Meera Solanki Estrada, in her article for the Huffington Post, sheds light on a common downfall in the world of fashion as it relates to appropriation. Oftentimes, it occurs when people look at a particular religion, culture, etc. and “decide that they like parts of it”*. Estrada addresses Beyoncé’s use of henna tattoos as well as Gwen Stefani and Selena Gomez’s modeling of bindis and bras onstage. She recalls being “mocked and degraded” for different aspects of her Indian culture while she was growing up. However, once celebrities utilized select parts of it as an accessory, her culture suddenly became a cool and fascinating thing*.

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, designers for Valentino, decided to create an Africa-inspired collection for Paris Fashion Week, featuring stereotypically/ “traditional” African clothing, hairstyles, and accessories*. However, not one of their models was a person of color. Stealing fragments from a different culture and having women of a completely different race and background model them does not communicate to people of color that they are valued or their culture genuinely respected by these companies.

When asked about the topic, Piccioli defended his choice saying, “The message is tolerance and the beauty that comes out of cross-cultural expression”*. When working in a field that directly affects so many people, it is crucial for one to ensure that his message comes across the way that it was meant to be. Piccioli’s comfort with his decision does not automatically dismiss the issue.

** = Pulled from Huffington Post article

^ = Pulled from The Atlantic Article

Writing MORAYO LADEJOLA–OGINNI

Editing MORGAN DUNSTAN

Photograph VALENTINO VIA VOGUE RUNWAY