Performative Sustainability

It is estimated that by next year, millennials will be the generation with the most purchasing power in history, so it comes as no surprise that today most retail businesses are marketing specifically to millennials. With social media and technology on their side, companies are better equipped than ever to target consumers with advertisements based on algorithms specifically catering to internetsavvy millennials’ past searches and purchase history. Services such as Amazon Prime have created a culture wherein people are so accustomed to the luxury of instant gratification without having to leave their homes, that the extent of mass consumption in today’s society is unprecedented. As a result, malls and physical retail stores are on the decline and new generations will never know what it means to have to wait a whole week for a package. This detachment from the physical process of purchasing goods allows few people even bother questioning where their products are sourced from or where they go after they are disposed of.

Millennials have grown up facing the challenge of climate change, the possible extinction of multiple species, and the constant nebulous threat of nuclear war. The millenial generation has the greatest understanding of their purchasing power and the interconnectedness of the world. Millennials know and care about sustainability, but are sorely lacking in terms of understanding the textile and fashion industry. Most are unaware of how and where their clothing is manufactured and the creation of instant gratification has only increased their detachment from the process.

Stores such as Zara and H&M cater specifically to individuals who want fast and trendy outfits for a low price. They feed directly into the millennial desire for constant change and a faster paced lifestyle. But the cost to make this all happen is much higher than the listed retail price. After many years of backlash, fast-fashion companies such as Zara and H&M have finally been forced to commit their brands to adopting sustainable practices. At the yearly Copenhagen Fashion Summit held last year in May, the Global Fashion Agenda outlined four immediate action points needed to lead the fashion industry into a circular and sustainable system. By June 2018, 94 companies signed the 2020 Circular Fashion System Commitment, comprising of 12.5% of the global fashion market. In signing, the companies have committed to adhere to one of the four immediate action points and to report annually on their progress in reaching their desired goal of sustainability. Some of the companies that have agreed to sign are ASOS, GAP, H&M and Target.

Although fast-fashion companies have moved towards more sustainable methods, the same cannot be said of many luxury fashion houses. Luxury companies often purposefully destroy their items in an effort to preserve their exclusive image. Burberry alone burned $36.5 million worth of retail items last year in an effort to ensure their items would not sold for a discounted price to the “wrong people”. Shareholders were angry because they were not even given the opportunity to take home some free goodies after their last meeting before the items were wiped out. According to Burberry, this practice of destroying items is very popular in the industry and other wellknown companies such as Louis Vuitton have also been known to burn bags all for the sake of their reputation. It is clear that a collective effort within the fashion industry will be needed in order to enact any real change and work towards creating and normalizing more sustainable production.

It’s time for a reality check. Consumers need to come to terms with the true price of their merchandise.

Writing FATIMA GARCIA

Image ARE.NA VIA THOMAS BUILLOT

Editing MORGAN DUNSTAN