armour. armourmag.blogspot.com
SUMMER 2013
“Fashion is the armor to survive the reality of everyday life. To do away with fashion would be like doing away with civilization.� - Bill Cunningham.
in this issue 8 Styles & Spaces
3 6 7 14 15 16 18 19
Letter from the Editors Seeing Clearly Unorthodox Behavior Summer Color: Lavender Is Underwear Underrated? Portraiture as Style Make Do & Mend Overdressed
24 26 27 28 30 32 38 40
Deconstructing & Reconstructing Fashion Stripes Swim against the Tide DIY or DYE Cultural Appropriation of Fashion Denim Days The Days after Bonnaroo Strip for Us
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The South American Way
20 Rust & Bloom
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armour. Editors-in-Chief Jacob Lenard Felicia Podberesky Chantal Strasburger
Editors Sarah Ettinger Priyanka Reddy Camil Sanchez-Palumbo Lily Sullivan Directors of Layout Ariella Elovic Becca Shuman Director of Photography Bonner Williams Director of Blog Chelsea Velaga Layout Team Lexy Copithorne Ali Dulman Jessica Hyman Sofia Kraushaar Shelby Lindblad Jacob Lenard Delaney Lundquist Alix Marson Casey Merber Felicia Podberesky Blake Rutledge Julie Safferstein Tori Sgarro Becca Shuman Chantal Strasburger
Contributers Mary Bishop Talia Brody-Barre Monique Chan Sasha Fine Helena Hay Alexis Kirton Jacob Lenard Carly Oshima Catalina Ouyang Felicia Podberesky Priyanka Reddy Camil Sanchez-Palumbo Chantal Strasburger Gwen Unger Chelsea Velaga
Photographers Andrew Dowd Jacob Lenard Felicia Podberesky Chantal Strasburger Bonner Williams QUESTIONS? COMMENTS? WANT TO GET INVOLVED? E-MAIL US AT armourmag@gmail.com
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letter from the editors I’m often greeted with strange looks when sporting my chunky gold lion necklace or shaved designs on the side of my head. In a sick little way, I get a thrill out of it. Back in high school, I hadn’t embraced my aberration from the norm, so I did everything I could to blend in: shaggy hair, blue converse, plain t-shirt. Somewhere inside was the real me bound to the mainstream around me. The style I found in the past four years has given me the opportunity to creatively express myself. When I look in the mirror and ask, “can you pull this off?”, the answer might not be yes, but walking outside with it on gives me the confidence and power which I couldn’t find for a long time. The minute you walk on campus in something that makes you feel different is the minute that you push yourself to be the strongest you possible. My style has truly become my everyday armour and armour magazine has given me the opportunity to give this strength to the community, which I have been so thankful to been a part of. I hope you’ve found and will find pleasure, confidence, and strength in the pages of the magazine for years to come. Jacob Lenard
As heavy-hearted as I am to be leaving armour behind for the outside world, I could not be more thrilled to watch it grow from afar and I can only hope that it will continue to bring as much joy to the future armour team as it brought me. We’ve said it a million times before, but armour was created in an effort to encourage, connect, and cultivate style at Wash U and watching that mission being accomplished has been one of my highlights here. Armour has been so much more to me than a student publication, it has taught me an incredible amount about the limits of style, it’s introduced me to some of the most amazing people on campus, and it inspires me every single day to explore creative expression. These past four years have been the best years of my life, and I could not think of a more perfect culmination than this summer issue. So if I had to give some parting wisdom as a graduating senior, it would be to take whatever it is you are passionate about, and find a way to incorporate that into your every day life. Make your mark on this campus, and love every crazy second of it. Peace out. Chantal Strasburger
“It doesn’t have to match, it just has to go”. Always said by my mother when picking out clothes, I have come to truly embody this as my philosophy of fashion. Armour has allowed me to take this feeling of limitlessness when it comes to style to an entirely different place. College is supposed to be that time to experiment, to sculpt, to cultivate the person you want to become in the real world (eep! too soon). For me, Armour is not about matching or fitting in, it is not about doing what is expected, it is not about feeling comfortable. Armour is that feeling of pure confidence. That fearlessness… when you know you are different, you are embracing the unexpected, and you are pulling it off with quiet conviction. It has truly been a pleasure to see the magazine, and something I am personally passionate about, embraced by the Wash U community. I cannot wait to see what it becomes! For all of you still with precious time here, I hope you find your armour.
And, as always,
DON’T MATCH. JUST GO.
get your armour on.
Felicia Podberesky
(P.S. its pronounced AR-mour. Think that shiny stuff on knights.)
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The South American Way by gwen unger The first thing you notice about Rio when you step out of the airport: the heat. It was 100+ degrees the first day I got here, and I made the mistake of wearing leggings on the plane with my combat boots. Needless to say, I was sweating instantly upon arrival. Adapting to the heat and lack of air conditioning is the first thing to learn in Rio, and learn it I did. Leaving St. Louis and New Jersey winters for the blaring heat of the beachy tropics of a huge city was a difficult task to take on, but I realized I’d need to master the jeitinho brazileiro, or more specifically, the carioca way. (carioca: native inhabitants of Rio de Janeiro) The most important steps to surviving the heat while still rocking your style: ▶ Bring a bathing suit with you everywhere, you have no idea when the heat might strike and you need to get on the beach and in the water right away.
▶
Wear minimal makeup, cariocas don’t wear much, and if they did it would just sweat off anyways.
▶ Have an umbrella and shades on you whenever you go out. No matter what the weather report says, Rio can always turn on you.
▶ Use a side satchel rather than a backpack; it helps
the breeze get to you and doesn’t create such a sweat!
▶ Canga: this beach towel/sarong type thing is your best friend. It lets you lay out on the beach and cover up before you have to change to get on the bus home!
▶ Havianas, havianas, havianas! These Brazilian staples are the perfect pair to any outfit, whether it be a beach day or a museum day (and only tourists wear leather sandals on the beach…)
Besides accounting for the heat, the most important item of style that I’ve found in Rio has been confidence. Women of all shapes and sizes wear loud, bright colors and teeny-tiny tangas (thong bikini bottoms), caring not what other people think but only how they feel about themselves. And don’t even get me started on samba: watching women who know how to samba makes you realize the comfort they have in their own skin. They move with ease and with a thrill (felicidade) of life that is just incredible. I’ve tried to samba and I still can’t get it the way cariocas do, but I love dressing in swinging skirts and dresses that transform dancing into an exhilarating experience. Color and form go a long way: even if you can’t dance like a pro, you can look like one. The past two months in Rio have been incredible and I’ve taken so much in. Not only has my style changed to adapt to the city, but I think my general demeanor has as well. Cariocas are relaxed and ready for everything that comes their way, making life seem like just a vacation on the beach. They do things to make themselves happy and to enjoy life to the fullest, even when its not Carnaval season. I’ve learned that the ultimate accessory, besides confidence, in Rio is a smile.
It’s called the
Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvelous City) for a reason.
My Rio style go-tos: colorful jewelry from the feira hippie, my Diana F+ film camera, some market shades and mascara and red lipstick.
Seen
The bizarre, distorted, and evolving objects of style and fashion often prompt me to the most natural question: Why? Why put chalk in your hair, why hike Mom jeans up to your bellybutton, why dress up like one of the Incredibles in shiny spandex, and why bare your life essentials for all to see by sporting a transparent bag? The latter question quickly rose to my thoughts as I spied on a twenty-something at Goodwill intensely inspecting the see-through accessory. Of course I had seen these trendy transparent items before—clear plastic heels, bracelets and transparent sunglasses—but the seriousness with which she eyed the knapsack made it hard for me not to question her motives. Only a mass of splayed clothes and tangled hangers on the floor kept me from demanding a reason for the accessory that seemed so childish to me, à la middle school and all too obvious in its clarity. A few moments of sitting with my instinctive question, though, yielded the realization that while I wouldn’t consider myself a secretive person, I am also far from forthcoming. Transparent accessories are intimidating in exactly how much they reveal. Fashion’s head honchos are getting in on 6
By Camil Sanchez Palumbo
the plastic fun with clear heels from Stella McCartney and boxy Chanel clutches popping up. Even fast-fashion chains like H&M have stocked up on the translucent portables and accessories, simplicity being the look of the moment. More than sheer shirts or tight skirts, though, these shiny plastic adornments give everything away, and I, for one, am not ready to share with everyone the collection of bookstore receipts, Emergen-C, and month-old Tootsie Rolls hanging out at the bottom of my bag. Call me conservative. The brunette in Goodwill, finagling her new transparent backpack, could teach a useful lesson about style and expression in an I-couldn’t-care-less kind of way. Your clothes do more than express who you are—they reveal your very essence, offering a part of you to the world. Transparent items, aside from being “posh,” are a way of harnessing all of the Why?’s and retorting back with a simple Because. Filling the clear plastic sack with all her life’s travels, the Goodwill girl wears her heart on her back, a selection of personal knick-knacks answering any questioning glances with impressive honesty. She— like her backpack—is everything she is, and nothing more.
Unorthodox Behavior Florals? For Spring? Groundbreaking. — The eternal words of Miranda Priestly, as played by an impeccable Meryl Streep in The Devil Wears Prada.
But truly, every Spring seems to bring with it an unstoppable influx of roses, lace, and pastels [or jewel colors, if we’re feeling a bit racy]. The same holds true for makeup; magazines annually tout bronzed cheeks, understated eye makeup, and pink or orange lips. What’s a girl to do? Especially one who is not particularly interested in looking like an Oompa-Loompa dressed in an Easter doily? I say, embrace minimalism, but be dramatic where it counts. Obviously when lounging poolside in Atlanta or wading in the surf of St. Barths, a face spackled immaculately with primer, sunscreen, foundation, concealer, blush, and powder is not essential. Your SPF should really be all that’s touching your [up until now] sunshine-deprived pores. If absolutely necessary, delve into tinted moisturizers for more coverage. Otherwise, your skin is your canvas, so let it breathe! And for my paler girls, please put down the bronzers and faux tanners. Sometimes nothing is more refreshing than a peaches ‘n cream complexion in a sea of brown ‘n burnt. Not to mention, the following ideas are equally complementary to both porcelain and bronzed skin tones.
Kiss of Death: Nude and pink? Passé. Strike a pout with head-turning black, lightly applied to be sure. If black is too intense, opt for a dark purple. With the pigment on your finger, pat the center of your lips and feather out. The idea is not to have a perfectly delineated border, but a badass flush.
Mr. White-Eyes: There is a reason why white is my neutral of choice, especially in, but not limited to, the warmer months. It’s bright, but stark. What it does for your wardrobe, it can also do for your makeup arsenal. A swipe of white eyeliner, on either the top or the bottom lash line [make sure to choose just one] looks amazingly invigorating and strikingly unusual.
By: Monique Chan
“Elvis has left the building”: Now, obviously this option requires more effort, and is not as easily worn in the daytime as the other two, but I can’t think of anything more perfect for a night out on the South Beach town. After applying mascara, pat glitter onto the underside of your lashes. For more punch, sprinkle the tops of your lashes with glitter as well. As always, whenever glitter is involved, make sagacious use of a tissue. Place it flush against your cheek, as close to your eye as possible, to catch the fallout and avoid looking like Edward in sunlight.
Pairing any one of these looks with a bare but glowing face keeps you from appearing sloppy, while letting everyone know that you would rather skinny dip in the ocean, or enjoy another mimosa, than paint on a mask of makeup. After all, having fun is serious business.
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styles and spaces Photography by: Chantal Strasburger and the guys
STYLES/SPACES ANDREWDOWD DOWD ANDREW
More and more I realize that all the stuff I surround myself with has a wild and vibrant kind of Americana: I like dark hardwood, denim, leather, pieces of machinery, waxed canvas, bright colors layered in lacquer. I’m drawn towards the materials and objects that age with character and show their wear. I’m an opportunist. Some of my favorite things in the apartment came from a rogue dumpster, or an abandoned industrial site, or some quirky antique shop. I like things that are mechanical, or are baffling and overwrought: I have a French audio-spectrometry box with like 20 dials and toggles that weighs about 40 pounds; this beautiful precision cartography tool from Zurich; an enormous, several inch thick pyrex glass dome used for smelting. Do I really need all these things? Well, I mean, maaaaaybe not, but I like these quirky relics. I like constructing small, visually complicated spaces (like in a bookshelf), but also generating spaces that let people move freely. A lot of things in the apartment I’ve created out of necessity: a spice rack from a table leg and wire, an album display stand from spare bike parts, lights suspended by fishing wire, etc. It’s definitely an organic evolution. My room is pretty good evidence of what happens when my aesthetic tendencies are left unchecked. How do your styles relate to each other? Have they been inspired by the other three, and if so, how? We each have pretty distinctive styles. It’s hard to say how much cross-court inspiration is happing, but the place has a diverse synergy that comes from all of us. Besides, we have our own art on the walls, and that really adds to the collective feel. I dig it. Your space wouldn’t be complete without… ...my stereo corner. I love my Technics receiver and record player, and with these awesome Advent floor speakers, it puts out a really warm, beautiful sound. Except when Richter puts on his EDM. The piece of furniture/decor that best represents or epitomizes your style is… ...At a certain point, I remember thinking “screw white space, I’ll just put everything up.” But I love this place–it’s my haven. I’ve got another good old-school receiver and five speakers arranged around the room, and there’s always music bubbling in here. Lots of Native American printed fabrics, lots of written words and sentiments.
“I’m an opportunist. Some of my favorite things in the apartment came from a rogue dumpster, or an abandoned industrial site, or some quirky antique shop” ANDREW DOWD 10
STYLES/SPACES My personal style is Nantucket grunge. My interior decorating style is utilitarian minimalist. I think of myself as an understated, European-minded minimalist, and adjust my wardrobe to match that idea. I also wear a lot of blue because it makes my eyes glimmer. As for my interior decorating style, I highly value usefulness and organization. After that, I’m interested in making my space meaningful and intriguing. For furniture, I find the gems at thrift shops, antique stores, and craigslist. For clothes, I stock my closet with L.L. Bean (Bean Boots a must have), J. Crew, and Nordstrom Rack. Just like a goldfish, I need the space I’m living in to be appealing and stylish in order for me to thrive. I don’t want to be swimming around in a dirty bowl. The style in our apartment was accomplished by Zach killing a bear, Andrew bringing in all of his stuff (he’s got a lot of it), and Lee whittling sticks so that we could put them in a corner. I’m basically the mom who keeps everyone in order.
Your space wouldn’t be complete without… ...good lighting, both natural and not. Lighting sets the tone from which everything else follows.
The piece of furniture/decor that best represents or epitomizes your style is… ... a book called “Ik Vind Jou Lief” (“I Find You Sweet”) framed in my room. It’s a Dutch picture book for kids to learn about sexuality I got as a gift while studying in Amsterdam. It has a colorful cover, and a simple frame.
BRIAN RICHTER
How do your styles relate to each other? Have they been inspired by the other three, and if so, how? I would say that we all have distinct vibes, yet they’re all on the same wavelength and are absolutely shaped by one another. It’s typical for us to give serious feedback on each other’s style.
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STYLES/SPACES BRIAN LEE
M t p a s
M t f a
F l s t a
H t
g
Y
t
T s My personal style is understated. It consists largely of blacks and neutrals, blue jeans, and the occasional white button-down. It’s basically a uniform. It also allows me to focus on the day rather than what I’m wearing. Interiors: mid-century art and architecture. I generally don’t go clothing shopping unless I have to. I hate malls. I’ve actually made most of my furniture. Working with wood is cathartic for me. I’m also passionate about it. As an art major, having a work/living space is important. Contemporary furnishings offer a spatial balance that both relaxes and inspires me. It’s my own blank slate. When I moved into my apartment, I sought to maximize the amount of table space while also sticking to minimalist aesthetics. There was an initial plan, but everything eventually fell into place without much thought. How do your styles relate to each other? Have they been inspired by the other three, and if so, how? We are all so different; yet I have no doubt we’ve ultimately influenced one another consciously or subconsciously. Regarding Richter’s room…I’ve got nothing. Your space wouldn’t be complete without… ...my floor lamp.
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The piece of furniture/decor that best represents or epitomizes your style is… ...a bench I recently created. I wanted to create a piece that worked together as a whole, but if you look closely, the bench is actually made up of ten pieces held together by various types of joinery.
y o
ZACH SWANSON
STYLES/SPACES
my style is simply up from or looks I’m MuchMuch of myofstyle is simply mademade up from itemsitems or looks I’m attracted or acquired and curated cinema, history,and the esto orattracted acquiredtoand curated from cinema,from history, the media, media, especially internet. I’m fairly grounded tradition pecially the and internet. I’m the fairly grounded in tradition butinlike to add but like to add edge,that some sort of the flairlook. that reinvents thepair look. an edge, some sort an of flair reinvents Like a jazzy of Like a jazzy of sunglasses. sunglasses. Or apair taxidermed bear. Or a taxidermed bear.
of my clothing personaldécor décorhas has been been picked MuchMuch of my clothing andand personal picked up uponon the move, acquired during traveling, working different jobs, the move, acquired during traveling, working different jobs, or or from fromSome friends. of my best stuff comes from second hand or friends. of Some my best stuff comes from second hand stores stores or antique shops. I’m definitely attracted that tell antique shops. I’m definitely attracted to items that to tellitems a story. a story. For me, the process is definitely organic. I’m a very visual person, and the process is definitely organic. a very visual livingFor in ame, visually stimulating environment is aI’m must. The mainperson, living a visually stimulating is abeen must. The spaceand hasliving beeninsort of a melting pot. Itenvironment has constantly changing main living spaceand hasliving been in sort of a melting pot.ofIt transformation has constantly throughout the year a perpetual state been changing throughout and living in a perpetual state and change has definitely been athe funyear time. of transformation and change has definitely been a fun time.
How do your styles relate to each other? Have they been inspired by How three, do your styles the other and if so,relate how?to each other? Have they been inspired by theI other three, and how? I really don’t even like these don’t see much ifofso, a relation. I don’t see much of a relation. I really don’t even like guys. these guys.
Your space wouldn’t be complete without… Your ...Art. space wouldn’t complete without… Both my be own and pieces that have been collected the years. Art. Both my own and pieces that have been collected through through the years.
The piece of furniture/decor that best represents or epitomizes your The piece of furniture/decor that best represents or style is… epitomizes your style is… ...I have a humidor-sized oak box that I made earlier this I have a humidor-sized oak box that I made earlier this year. It is a classic gloss black with inlay work that creates the image year. It is a classic gloss black with inlay work that creates the of a skull. image of a skull.
“The main living space has been sort of a melting pot. It has constantly been changing throughout the year and living in a perpetual state of transformation and change has definitely been a fun time.” ZACH SWANSON 13
Summer Color:
Lavender by: Talia Brody-Barre & Jacob Lenard
This summer, we are dreaming about florals, pastels, and the eye-dazzling amount of lavender sprouting from the runways and stores. Get inspired by looks from Chanel, Enrico Coveri, and Comme des Garcons using Lavender in everything from suits for men, to daytime heels, and shiny clutches. Try Lavender off the runway as a fun way to freshen up your look. It’s blue enough to wear with cooler tones, but pink enough to pair with warm colors. We suggest using the color as small accents for a daytime look. Apply lavender eye makeup for a more vibrant, daring look, even on a night out. Lavender looks best with outfits using bright whites or light grays, but to keep you looking like an Easter bunny, we think matching lavender accessories with heavy silver or gold makes a unique look for any summer occasion. Transition your wardrobe by adding drops of color into your nails or bags to create dynamic outfit that can keep you looking cool, all through the summer heat.
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Underwear Underrated? IsIs Underwear Underrated? As someone who usually self identifies as an over-analyzer to the pointof insanity, I don’t really think about underwear that much. I’ve got my everyday underwear and then I have my not-everyday underwear (some might call them sexy panties, I would rather not) and that’s that. In the last couple months, however, two events have forced me to rethink my everyday underwear in general… My first underwear revelation happened in the Hitzeman laundry room. I wanted to put my clothes in the dryer but all four were taken by, what I speculate was, one person. I could tell because each dryer contained, amongst other things, pairs and pairs of Hanky Pankies. Although I am not entirely sure, it seemed as if the person owned Hanky Pankies exclusively. Call me a 65-year-old but I thought expensive underwear was a fun thing to have for special occasions/ going out/when you want to ‘treat yourself’, not an everyday staple. You have your everyday underwear and you have your not-for-everyday underwear. Right?... My second underwear revelation happened during class when this dude reached up to grab something. By lifting his arms, he revealed the waistband of his black Calvin Klein boxer briefs. This
doesn’t seem particularly noteworthy, but the guy wearing the boxer briefs gives off the unshaven, just rolled out of bed, “I don’t care” look. Since I had already attributed a style and personality to him, I was surprised and intrigued. His underwear made me question my first impression of him. My encounter with Calvin Klein also made me realize that everyday underwear politics is not a girl-exclusive subject and, given the fact that guys are given less clothing freedom than girls, might be equally if not more prevalent in boy culture. From my two ‘brief’ encounters came an epiphany; everyday underwear is not just for hygiene, it is a personality defining life choice! …until I went onto www. hankypanky.com and saw that they are $30 a pair. Well www.nothankyou.com In any case, everyday underwear is worth thinking about. After all, putting on cute underwear in the morning can give you equal to or more energy than a cup of coffee!* And who knows, you discover a new you while wearing cheetah print lace boy shorts or a camo-patterned brief. Even if no one but you can see it, everyday is the right day to treat yourself, even if it is an “under”statement.... *nope.
Feeling FeelingAdventurous? adventorous?Try TryThese: these: Girls
The Bralette. Originally a less embarrassing synonym of the ‘training bra’, a bralette is wireless bra that comes in cute colors and is super comfortable. The Lace Boyshorts. Full coverage, no panty lines. Aw Yeah.
Guys
Euro Trunks. The same idea as boxer briefs but shorter on the thigh. Less material, more fun. Briefs. Not just for old men anymore, try something with a comfortable waist band and breathable material.
Written and Illustrated By Mary Bishop
PORTRAITURE AS STYLE Fashion Before the Age of Photography By Sasha Fine
“ Sometimes the clothes on the subject of a painting can be just as fascinating as the subject itself.
”
Elizabeth I, National Portrait Gallery (London, United Kingdom); Unknown artist (c. 1575)
Perhaps the best way to track the history of fashion before the age of photography is to examine portrait painting. Though there is some overlap, fashion photography seems to have taken off in the first half of the 20th century; before that time, portrait painting was the primary way through which fashion trends can be examined and understood. Historically, the commissioning of portraiture was limited to the upper- or royal-class; as a result, the depiction of fashion, specifically clothing and jewelry, primarily deals with those who had large sums of money. Nobility is perhaps the best example of a select group of people wielding a large degree of influence over the fashion and art worlds due to the disproportionate number of paintings portraying them. An excellent example of how royal portraits were emblems of fashion are the numerous paintings made of Elizabeth I in the second half of the 16th century. The ruff, an individual piece of pleated cloth or lace that encircled the neck, was common only amongst nobility during that period due to their cost and the amount of care they required. In the Queen of England’s portraits, they are prominently on display. In fact, she was so partial to her ruffs that she passed a law restricting the size of people’s ruffs outside of Court. Other country’s nobility utilized this article of clothing during this period, including the Spanish monarch, Philip III . In the late 18th and early 19th century, in the wake of the Atlantic Revolutions in the United States, France, and other countries, the subjects of portraiture shifted from monarchs to the appointed leaders of the new
republics. These portraits still were emblems of contemporaneous fashion, with the client wearing the prevailing taste of the day. In the United States, every president has sat for an official portrait. The most famous of these is probably the Lansdowne portrait of George Washington, painted by Gilbert Stuart. In the painting, Washington wears the fashionable clothes of the day; buckled boots, ruffles around his neck and at his wrists, and long dark stockings. His decision to wear a modest black suit rather than, say, a King’s robes, symbolize his place as a leader of, by and for the people. He also sports tousled white hair—famously associated with the Founding Fathers—though he does not wear a wig (he powdered his hair instead). It is through portraits such as those of Elizabeth I, Philip III, and George Washington that we can know, understand, and visualize fashion trends throughout history. It goes without saying that only a select few could wear what is portrayed in the images, but they are the styles that are remembered and associated with those eras. In the second half of the 1900s, fashion photography took over, with individuals like Richard Avedon taking the place of portraits in helping determine, showcase, and represent society’s sense of style and fashion. Paintings are an invaluable wealth of information about a period’s beliefs and values, but it is also, arguably, the most accurate and informative representation of the fashion of the
Philip III, Museo del Prado (Madrid, Spain); painted by Diego Velazque (1634-35)
Lansdowne Portrait, National Portrait Gallery (Washington, D.C., United States); painted by Gilbert Stuart (1796)
day. Sometimes the clothes on the subject of a painting can be just as fascinating as the subject itself. 17 Veruschka, Richard Avedon, 1967
Make Do & Mend BY: FELICIA PODBERESKY
To Make Do & Mend is to have the capacity to endure: a concept dating back to the Second World War encouraging Americans to extend the life and utility of their clothing. While we may not feel the same pressure of a clothing and supply shortage, a similar perspective can be used to oppose the devaluation of clothing in today’s fast fashion, mass-market society. With the increasingly popular thrift and vintage store trend, take a page from the techniques of the women of the 1940’s, the true masterminds, or shall we even go as far to say, the Original DIY-ers.
So, let’s start small. You’re not too confident with the whole create your own, fix it up, let me quickly turn my t-shirt into a new skirt, headband, necklace, and purse in a few quick cuts. You do, however, have an unexplained obsession with your grandma’s clip on earrings and have somehow stockpiled them into the, “I’m totally going to eventually wear these all the time” category of your closet. Revisit those gold, bedazzled, color-blocked shapes and give them a new home on the collar tips of your favorite blouse. Not only is it a quick and painlessly temporary fix, but you can have a new blouse for as many days as you have totally awesome and fantastically gaudy clip on earrings. The best part? No new piercings (through skin nor fabric) necessary!
Amassed an almost embarrassingly large amount of clip-ons that exceeds “small obsession”? Transform them yet again into some fancy new shoe clips—your feet and wallet will thank you. Who doesn’t wish they had a new pair of shoes for every day of the week? Simply clamp them onto a pair of flats for added excitement. Now, we may not be as resourceful as those women who went as far as creating a sexy pair of knickers out of parachutes, but we can be a little crafty ourselves. We’ve all been there--that panicked moment of no return when your favorite pair of earrings has somehow become a solo show. Repurpose that lone ranger into a necklace, brooch, or hairclip with the simple addition of a chain or pin.
Within a society of such quick consumption, there is something to be said about going shopping within your own possessions in search of something new. The recent Pinterest and DIY popularity provides at least a small step back from an entirely neophilic consumer approach, with a return to this “making do” perspective. While we may not have a Ministry of Information to provide coupons for the limited amount of clothes you are allowed to purchase, you may just find more satisfaction knowing you had a hand in the creation of that “new” dress that everyone is complimenting you on. 18
The book continues with an exploration into the death of middle-market clothing, citing that cheap fashion has forced high fashion brands to escalate their pricing strategies. Cline argues that luxury handbags are the biggest scam in the industry. The bags and their huge profit margins make up for the lower clothing prices, which often take a loss despite the sticker shock consumers see. Bags typically represent a way to gain access to a brand in a way that’s noticeable to others without demanding as heavy of a financial commitment as clothing. Cline discusses how the nature of fast fashion has prevented this decade from creating any salient trends that we can reference in the future. Due to the fact that consumers expect a constant stream of fresh product, there is more pressure to design at a more rapid pace. Clothing not only lacks quality but some level of creativity. Have you noticed that all the current trends draw upon the 70’s, 80’s, and 90’s? Think maxi skirts, small flower prints, denim, flannel, neons. Very little is innovative anymore at the mass market level. Ever curious as to where all of your discarded or donated clothing go? Cline outlines the “clothing deficit myth”. Many, myself included, think that their donated clothing is put to good use. However, Cline proves through investigation that our poorly made H&M and Forever21 castaways end up even more unloved at “thrift stores”, tainting what used to be so great about thrift and vintage stores.
OVERDRESSED A book review by Helena Hay
In her bestseller, Overdressed, Elizabeth Cline delves into the fast fashion industry, detailing how garment manufacturing has changed over the last century and how it parallels the changes in consumers’ needs and perceptions. She illuminates how and why consumers demand more at a lower cost and how almost all garment production has moved to China in order to satisfy lower pricing demands. She explores the full spectrum of fashion production from large factories in China and Bangladesh (whose workers, in fact, consume fast fashion just as heavily as Americans) to New Yorkers who have dusted off their sewing machines and now make their own clothing from scratch.
This book illuminates the cuts that fast fashion manufacturers make in materials, labor, and design. Cline provides a new perspective on the importance of truly investing in clothing, not only at its purchase point, but also in upkeep and tailoring. As a society that places so much emphasis on physical appearance, we tend not to give clothing the attention they need to fit and last. Cline leaves us with simple, strong advice: Take care of the things that you own. Buy less. Support local, independent designers and retailers.
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RUST + BLOOM
Photography by: Felicia Podberesky & Bonner Williams Model: Danielle Huxley Styled by: Jacob Lenard, Felicia Podberesky, Chantal Strasburger, Priyanka Reddy, Sarah Ettinger & Camil Sanchez-Palumbo
BEFORE
I’ve dreamt my whole life of becoming a fashion designer. At home, I have a box under my bed filled with the random items of my fashionistaaspiring childhood: lame little attempts of clothing sketches from when I was probably seven years old, doodles of high heels that I wished were appropriate to wear as an elementary school student, and the first garment I ever actually made… I was in middle school. I taught myself how to sew. I had a pair of jeans that were just too boring as plain, somewhat unfortunately flared jeans. I decided to make them fitted and cut them shorter (capris were trendier back then) and I sewed some lace around the hem. These simple alterations didn’t seem like a big deal at the time, but this concept of making something new out of an existing garment has since become quite significant in my life and in the fashion world in general.
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I always have this idea of fashion renovation in the back of my mind. Whether I go searching through the bag of clothing my parents are planning to give away or go thrift shopping, I can almost always find items to rework into something I would actually wear. Sometimes I stumble upon a garment that just needs fit adjustments, but more often than not, I find items in need of some pretty major changes. For example, I might come across one of my dad’s old button-down shirts, tear it apart, and convert it into a gathered mini-skirt. Or I might buy a conservative long-sleeved, calf-length, high-necked velvet dress for a few bucks that I completely deconstruct, combine with some leftover lace I have lying around, and turn into a cute little tank and skirt combo. Last summer I took a few short courses at Central Saint Martins in London, one of which focused on this idea of recycling vintage clothes into something new and innovative.
Deconstructing and Reconstructing
Fashion The class promoted the importance of sustainability as well as the challenge of making something beautiful with limited resources. When I transformed a short, retro, houndstooth jacket into a sculptural cocktail dress, I realized how strong my passion for remaking fashion was. Deconstructing and reconstructing fashion has many benefits. On the more selfish side, it allows you to create exactly what you want in a garment without having to start completely from scratch; and on a more global level, it promotes sustainable fashion by recycling and reworking clothing to make
By Carly Oshima Photographed by Felicia Podberesky
something new and different without the waste. Next time you’re shopping and see something with potential that isn’t quite perfect, or when you’re about to throw away a garment because the trends have changed, try to figure out a way to make it into something you would be happy to wear. Alter it to make it simply fit correctly or rework it to make it crazy unique. No matter how big the change, you can make it a fashion statement of your own.
AFTER
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stripes have been a wardrobe staple for years, first worn by sailors to be easily seen in the ocean and now worn by bloggers on the streets of new York and Paris.
The “BreTon” sweaTer popularized the look, iconically worn by Pablo Picasso and adopted by such trendsetters as Brigitte Bardot, Coco Chanel, and Jackie o. This simple but powerful pattern has remained in style ever since its conception, and this season is no exception. Their versatility has seen them in all colors, combinations, and thicknesses, and their simplicity allows for easy pairing with almost all other clothing.
Colored sTriPes are very current and provide a new take on a classic trend. The alwaysinnovative MarC JaCoBs sent his models down the runway in different variations on the stripe, creating an unusual optical illusion on the runway and making a bold statement.
Try pairing multiple striped articles of clothing with similar color palettes but different patterns, or start simple with a striped sweater and a brightly colored solid. Be sure to use the graphic quality of the pattern to your advantageverTiCal sTriPes are often said to elongate, while horizontal stripes can add curves. have fun and experiment, because with a pattern this iconic, you can’t go wrong.
By: alexis Kirton and Priyanka reddy
The opportunities are endless, so give stripes a try this summer. 26
Swim against the tide By Priyanka Reddy Swimwear by and
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Summertime means swimsuit season! And with that comes the everlasting quest for the perfect beach body. The skimpy outfits required of swimming and tanning leave little to the imagination and not much room for personal style. Companies such as Black Milk and We Are Handsome are trying to change society’s attitude toward swimwear by offering a wide variety of prints and designs, from the intriguing to the downright strange. Instead of relying on your boring black bikini, why not sport a tiger or a tropical forest? Black Milk even sells one-pieces with different NASA images of galaxies for those whose taste is a little more out of this world. This summer, don’t be afraid to stand out and express yourself with the small amount of fabric separating you from the sun’s rays.
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with Helena Hay Welcome to the latest do-it-yourself project, squeezed fresh from my mind grapes. This project was inspired by the recent collar-jewelry trend in combination with some odds and ends I had lying around my apartment. To me, the project was a natural extension of creating friendship bracelets, another item I’ve also made an embarrassing amount of. The beauty of this necklace is that it can be worn with about anything to add a pop of color and youth to your ensemble. Sometimes I even wear two (ok fine, three) at once, because why wouldn’t I? Happy DIYing!
Materials Rope—I like to use clothesline Embroidery string in a variety of colors A lighter Beads (optional) 2 jump rings and lobster clasp
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When you’d like to switch colors, just tie a new color over the current one and keep going. Cut the string of the old color after a few stitches of the new color. This cuts down on the number of double-knots you’ll make on the whole project. Continue on, while switching colors whenever you want, until you’ve reached the other end. Fold the rope again to make a small loop. When ready, finish with a double knot.
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Measure and cut rope to ideal length. Starting at one end, fold part of the rope over and tie a knot with the string to secure the loop you just created. Continue tying string around the rope using the standard friendship bracelet knot.
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Do the same with another smaller piece of rope, starting from the middle point moving outwards. When covered with string, tie that piece of rope onto the one created previously with the same knot technique.
Measure and cut a longer piece of rope. Feel free to use artistic liberties here—no two necklaces need to look the same. Position it evenly and tie it on to your project using string in various colors. If you want to keep the rope bare, great! If not, tie with colors as you please. Finish it off by adding a jump ring to each loop, along with one lobster clasp.
Tips
Briefly run a lighter over the ends of the rope right after you cut them. This prevents fraying.
If you’d like to avoid the spiraling look of the string (à la chinese staircase), switch off between a forward stitch and a backwards stitch. Mark the center of each piece of rope with pen if you’re into symmetry. Get creative! Variations on this project are infinite, so don’t just follow me.
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Cultural Appropriation in
Fashion
Certain trends in fashion borrow clothes and aesthetics from different cultures and ethnic groups. Appropriating fashion from outside of one’s own culture exists everywhere from couture lines to commercial campaigns. Jeremy Scott’s ‘Arab Spring’ collection featured sheer black burqas and textured hijabs in which these cultural insignias were sexualized and embellished on non-Arab women. A more mainstream and controversial example comes from the Victoria’s Secret ‘Go East’ collection which features a white model in a getup entitled ‘Sexy Little Geisha’. This not only directly references Japanese culture, but also plays on the stereotype of the hypersexualized and submissive Asian woman. These instances may appear harmless, especially given the experimental nature of a designer like Jeremy Scott, but reinforce stereotypes about ethnic groups and cultures. While these instances may seem distant to those not in the world of high fashion, similar references to cultural appropriation are common around Halloween. Many people sport ‘ethnic’ costumes such as Geishas, China Dolls, ‘Bollywood Divas’, and Cantina outfits. This is one time of the year when people are urged to consider how they are in fact commenting on another culture and more often than not, sexualizing the ethnic group they parody.
In fashion, however, cultural appropriation sometimes gets overlooked in the name of couture and artistic freedom. Blogging and media giants such as Tumblr and Blogspot are the virtual homes of thousands of fashion blogs and style-savvy consumers. These sites receive an immense amount of online traffic and, as a result, some of these bloggers become style icons in their own right. Unfortunately, these sites are also home to the same appropriation seen elsewhere. Bindis, usually worn by Indian women, are currently trending on these sites and beyond, as well as colorful headdresses and ‘tribal’ patterned garments. The flipside of the argument states that culture is dynamic, and always changing and fusing with other elements, and therefore should be allowed to have different expressions and contexts. Additionally, some say that no one group owns the right to dress a certain way, given how global our culture has become. Though it is true that every article of clothing or way of wearing something can be dated back to a certain culture, many instances of cultural appropriation can be too blatant and disrespectful to be ignored.
By Chelsea Velaga 30
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Denim Days Looking for some summertime adventures in Saint Louis? Head down Jefferson to Cherokee Street and turn right for the best Mexican food in town (but actually. you have to try one of La Vallesana’s popsicles) and left for antique row. Browse local businesses like Firecracker Press for some fresh art or Retro101 for the best vintage in town. Cherokee thrives on color and energy, so don’t be afraid to vibe with the street culture in graphic prints and colored denim. From jean vests to cool cut-off’s, there’s no better way to beat the heat.
Photography by: Felicia Podberesky & Jacob Lenard Styled by: Jacob Lenard, Felicia Podberesky, Chantal Strasburger, Lily Sullivan Models: Jessi Liang, Grant Phillips, Leslie Salisbury
by Jacob Lenard
We spend all year dreaming of summer: bright red popsicles, swimming in lakes and flip flop tans. But what radiates summer better than the endless ooze of sublime music festivals? Festivals have it all: amazing music, diverse people, delicious food and a completely valid excuse to lay in the grass all day. There is one thing, however, that can strike an off chord: the slew of the all too stereotypical “this is my summer festival outfit that I only wear once a year” festival go-ers. We’ve all seen it and definitely taken a part of it. Music festivals, whether in the middle of Tennessee or right here in Brookings Quad, tend to encourage people to throw on a neon-colored crop top, jean shorts and a braided headband. Clearly, this is not everyone’s normal attire, or we’d be calling ourselves Bard (insert hippy school). And if it is, hey go for it- you look fabulous,
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always. But why radically change your style and become just another fan in the crowd?
1. Mixin’ Hard and Soft: It’s the easiest mantra to live by. Leather goes great with florals, Doc martens look excellent with preppy lace socks, and stripes look bangin’ with, well, anything. Mix and match for an eclectic mix of rad styles. 2. Comfort for All: If you aren’t comfortable in the tiniest of jean shorts- don’t wear them. When Alt-J is jamming at Bonaroo, no one around you is going to be measuring your short length. Think Monterey Pop Festival- 1962. Flowing dresses. Big shirts. Easy hair. No fuss.
3. Hydrate: Don’t try to be chic. Bring a water bottle. If you want it to be cooler- stick some bumper stickers from local sandwich shops
and that random bike shop you went into that one time. Or really channel the crunchy vibe with a hardcore, sporty camelback. Then no one will doubt your commitment.
4. Bag It Up: Although traveling light would be swell, most of us rely all too much on our cellular devices and cash to get us through the day (and don’t forget the sunscreen!). So get a fun drawstring bag or satchel to carry your annoying but necessary survival kit. Spice it up with some vintage buttons, spray paint, or colorful ribbons.
5. Sunny Sunnies: Sunglasses. They are essential. Don’t bring your most beloved expensive heirloom but instead try buying a 10 dolla holla pair- something bright and fresh. Vibe J. Lennon with a circular set or spice it up with some heart shaped ones à la Lana Del Rey.
Model: Natalie Brackett
Furthermore, Summer Festival Style doesn’t need to stop at the campgrounds. Try mixing fringe and band t-shirts into your everyday looks beyond those festy days. You can bring ribbons, confidence, and funky sunglasses with you to class, parties, or just a sunny walk in Forest Park. The days after Lollapalooza can be just as fun to dress for and is a perfect remedy for those musical hangovers. But hey, if you’re still having a hard time picking out your outfit for
the day, close your eyes. Put on a little Youth Lagoon or The Mamas and the Papas and let the music pick for you. And if it so happens to still choose a neon crop and feather headband- go with it. Music Festivals are about fun, friends, and most importantly, the music-, so don’t get too caught up. View these days as the perfect time to experiment and let the good vibes come to you. And, in the words of Grass Roots, sha la la la la la live for today.
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STRIP FOR US by Catalina Ouyang
Speech bubbles, superhero logos, panel sequences: the comic book print is in. Comic-book graphics have blown up, leaping off the printed page to the runway. Perhaps it’s Hollywood’s ongoing influx of superhero remakes, perhaps it’s a Pop Art revival—but anywhere from Top Shop to Etsy, you won’t be able to escape the bodycons, leggings, crop tops, platform wedges and swimsuits all emblazoned with that Lichtenstein look. The trend encompasses everything from superheroes to vintage comics (the ever-sopopular Sick of Men series); any way you go at it, it’s kitschy, it’s whimsical, it’s nostalgic. We saw it early in Philip Lim’s The Break Up PVC pouch, then brought to an impressive level of extravagance by Australian design duo Romance Was Born in their S/S ‘13 collection—sponsored, in fact, by Marvel. Geeky as it is, there’s something undeniably fascinating about being able to literally read a pair of shoes.
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1. Batman Bodycon dress, Lazy Oaf // 2. POW leggings, Loveculture // 3. Kaboom crop tee, Topshop // 4. Black Milk x Sick of Men bodycon dress // 5. Comic print heels, Chockers // 6. Backless crop top, Etsy (noslowjams)// 7. Teramo Sneaker, Jeffrey Campbell
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