Designer Profile
Jacques Doucet
By Arriana Drakes
About Jacques Doucet was first, and foremost, a connoisseur of art. Additionally, his passion for the refined and exquisite overflowed into his dealings with fashion, making him one of the finest French couturiers during the Belle Époque. The House of Doucet began as a family business, specializing in women’s lingerie and laces, as well as articles of clothing for men. Founded in 1817, the company rose to fame under the hand of Jacques. The house was known for its luxurious offerings, which were worn and coveted by royalty, members of the elite society in both Europe and America, and actresses of the stage.
Afternoon Dress This afternoon dress was likely worn at the races or to other social events where exhibiting one’s finery by promenading was deemed appropriate. The delicate dress of chiffon, lace and velvet is an excellent example of Doucet’s artistic hand. The construction of the dress is somewhat unusual, for it is a one-piece garment with a monobosom bodice and usually, a dress such as this is two-pieces. The pleated chiffon godets show the advanced technique needed to create this dress, making it a fine representation of the workmanship of the French couture.
Evening Dress This evening dress is an exquisite example of the surface embellishment of the Belle Époque era. The multiple layers of silk, net and lace, accented with satin ribbon, beads, sequins and embroidery show how carefully each piece of couture was constructed. This dress is especially interesting, for it was worn by Mrs. Frederick Augustus Constable, wife of the manager of the high-end New York store Arnold Constable & Co. The establishment imported European dresses, some being Doucet’s, as illustrated by both names being included on the petersham.
Visiting Dress Worn by a lady of society during her afternoon calls, this dress is an excellent representation of the complexity of surface decoration and lace treatment which are quintessential Belle Époque devices denoting opulence and luxury. The treatment of the velvet is exemplary, for such an advanced technique as impressed velvet would only be available to French couture houses. The jacket and bodice are quite becoming, as the blousing of the underbodice creates a bolero effect which was a prevalent style during this period.
Ball Gown This piece is an exquisite example of a lavish ball gown made by one of the grandest French couture houses of the period. The material used is of the finest quality, extremely delicate and dramatically embroidered. The cut of the bodice is quite seductive, enhancing the silhouette.
Tea Gown Worn while entertaining at home, teagowns express explicit femininity and represent a life of luxury. The lace of this teagown is of particular interest because of its overall design of interlinked flowers and scrolls. The high concentration of lace at the bodice adds visual interest as well as draws attention to the wearer’s face. It is apparent that the silhouette of the dress makes historical references in the open robe effect of the lace overskirt and the Renaissance shirred sleeves. The combination of fine materials and historical characteristics create an air of romantic fantasy.
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