THE HISTORY OF FASHION by arti singh

THE HISTORY OF FASHION

LEARNING TARGETS INDIVISUAL PRESENTATION 1. The fashions that teens wear now – What inspired them? – Could they have been worn earlier in the 20th century? – You are wearing the same blue jeans that a coal miner might of worn 150 years ago- sure there are changesbut jeans are jeans! Fashion has developed over time, but just like history, it repeats itself!

INDIVISUAL SUBMISSION - SKETCHES CAN BE EITHER MANUAL OR SOFTWARE BASED 2.

• • •

Develop a range of 5-7 garments taking inspiration from any 3 fashion contributor country(Egypt/Greece/Roman/France/Japan/China/India) discussed during the session. Points to incorporate in your sketches Make-up & Hairstyle Motifs/Prints/Patterns Colors

GROUP ACTIVITY- FORM 7 GROUPS EACH GROUP WILL TAKE 1 FASHION CONTRIBUTOR COUNTRY. 3.

Collect visuals from magazines/books/newspapers/internet and create a collage comparing clothing similarities between the ancient clothing & the present fashion (any 1 country). ALL THE GROUP MEMBERS WILL TALK ABOUT THE ASSIGNMENT ONE BY ONE.

GROUP ACTIVITY- CAN BE CONDUCTED ON SATURDAY’S 4.

Do/Develop the accessories/makeup/hairstyling/draping, activity in a group of 2-3 students taking inspiration from the current topic taught in History of Fashion class.

PROJECT REFERENCE

THE EARLIEST CLOTHING • Thousands of years ago people learned to make clothing from natural resources as protection from the weather. – Animal skins & hair – Plants – Grasses – Tree bark • How do we know all of this? Through cave and tomb drawings and ancient sculptures.

FIRST CLOTHES AND FABRICS • Simple in structure & design • Varied from region to region • Fragments of textiles date back to 7500 B.C. • Linen cloth was made from flax plants by Egyptians in 5000 B.C • Thousands of years later inhabitants of India, Pakistan, and possibly Americans made fabric of cotton

FASHION OF EARLY CIVILISATIONS • • • •

People learned to raise animals and grow crops They refined the arts of spinning, weaving, and dyeing They began to cut fabric into garments Ancient fashion contributors include:

– – – – – – –

Egypt Greece Roman Empire France China Japan India

EVOLUTION OF FASHION Evolution of Fashion • • • •

Fashion changed very slowly People often wore the same style clothing for life A particular style could continue past a lifetime Until the 14th century, European clothes were loose-fitting and draped • Around 1350 people started wearing more fitted styles • Regional clothing differences became visible as European settlers came to America

MEN & WOMEN EARLY CLOTHING • Men – Knee-length pants called breeches

• Women – Gowns with a fitted bodice, full skirt, and long, full sleeves.

• Embroidery and decorative edging • Wealthy wore silk garments trimmed with fur and adorned with silver accents • Peasant clothes were limited to certain colors and fabrics

FASHION IN ANCIENT EGYPT

LINEN • All clothes were almost always made of linen which is made from flax. • Growing flax was a job for men only. • Flax stems were soaked for several days. • The fibres were beaten until soft. • The fibres were twisted into strong thread. • The weaving was done on a loom. • White linen had to be washed a couple of times. They washed it in the river or canal, rinsed, then it was pounded on a stone. After that it was bleached in the sun. • They pressed the linen into grooves on a wooden board to let it dry.

CLOTHING

LIONCLOTH • A triangular piece of cloth worn by commoners, nobilities and royalties. • Slaves were only allowed to wear it after the formation of new kingdom.

SCHENTI • A skirt which is pleated in front worn by nobilities and royalties. • Till knee level • Till thigh level in the old kingdom. 3000 B.C. to 2000 B.C.

TUNIC • A rectangular piece of cloth with a hole in the centre for the neck worn by pharaohs after conquering Ceria. • 1500 B.C. to 750 B.C.

KALASIRIS • Worn by women. • Sheath or a tube dress with straps. • 2 or one strap going over the shoulder. • Mid-calf or ankle length. • Starched and pleated.

CAPE • Worn by women by the new kingdom. • A round piece of cloth with a hole in the centre for the neck and belted at the waist.

HEADWEAR

FOOTWEAR • Wore during the new kingdom. • Made of leather or papyrus fibre.

ANCIENT EGYPTIAN JEWELLERY • Mummies were decorated with jewellery before they where put inside the pyramids. • Rich women wore gold jewellery sets with precious stones. Even very poor people wore jewellery. • They had necklaces and rings made from shells or beaten copper. • Jewellery was worn by both men and women, for magical as well as aesthetic reasons for example, a fish pendant might protect a child from drowning. • Egyptians liked to look good, they wore simple, flowing clothes and lots of jewels. • Poor people wore copper rings or a string of beads. The more important a person was, the more jewellery they wore. • They wore jewelled belts, earring, rings , bracelet and collars –– deep, flat necklaces that fastened at the back.

ANCIENT EGYPTIAN JEWELLERY

MAKE UP • Eye shadow: made of malachite which is red and green in colour • Hena: nail paint and colouring their hair • Kohl: eye liner made of galena ore

PURPOSE OF MAKEUP 1. 2. 3. 4.

To keep away the insects. To keep away the evil eye. To prevent inflammation and allergy. Dust

CLEOPATRA • CLEOPATRA: the last pharaoh of Egypt. • She tried to restore Egypt to greatness but she was conquered by the Roman Empire and committed suicide with lover, Mark Antony. • She poisoned herself.

KING TUTANKHAMON

FASHION IN ANCIENT GREECE

GREEK - CIVILISATIONS 1. The three significant civilisations of ancient Greece are• Minoans •Mycenaean •The Ancient Greek

2. The purpose of clothing was not only to cover & protect the body, but also to decorate & enhance the beauty of the wearer. 3. In Ancient Greece, a persons tunic was decorated at the hemline to represent the city or state in which he lived.

8 th Century B.C -18 th Century A.D •The kind of clothing worn in ancient Greece was loose and flowing and the garments were often sewn together. • The fabrics used were mainly linen or wool. •Women also wore a veil with their clothing whenever they stepped out of the house. •In fact, the ancient Greek fashion was quite modern in its outlook as far as men were concerned to the extent that male nudity was really not a big deal in ancient Greece.

8 th Century B.C -18 th Century A.D • Greeks did not cut and sew their clothes until the fourth century. They used to create different styles by draping finely woven cloth around their bodies. •The wealthy people could afford fine wool & linen, others used textiles made of coarse wool. •Much of our knowledge of Greek Fashions comes from the marble sculptures. •Many people thought they wore only white garments but, experts discovered. That these statues were once covered with bright paint that wore off over the Centuries.

CHITON

•Chiton was worn in the ancient Greece by men as well as women. •Unisex clothing was quite popular in ancient Greek fashion. •Later on both men and women started wearing stitched Chiton tunics with a U or V neckline •The Chiton could be worn with a Himation or it could be worn without it as well. •A belt was also worn with the chiton, which was called the zoster.

CHLAMYS •The Chlamys was also flowing in its appearance and was mainly worn by the soldiers in ancient Greece. •The chlamys was also worn with other forms of clothing. • This was worn pinned at the right arm.

PEPLOS •The Peplos consisted of a tubular shaped cloth—this was folded from the inside out. •The top area of the tube usually gathered at the waist and the bottom area extended till the ankles. •The cloth on the upper area was brought underneath the left arm—this was secured with the help of tapes or pins on the right shoulder •The top layer of the cloth, which draped the waist often gave the appearance of two pieces of cloth •There were certain types of patterns that were used for the peplos. Some of the common patterns included checks, flowers, waves or even stripes.

HIMATION •When the himation was being worn in ancient Greece, it represented a form of outdoor wear. •The himation is also an important garment of ancient Greek fashion. •This was generally made from a rectangular piece of wool with the use of lighter fabrics, the himation was worn at any time of the day. •The himation was loose and flowing, thus, it can be termed as a modern cloak—it was also used as a form of drapery to be worn over the chiton.

JEWELLERY

•Jewelry did form a significant part of ancient Greek fashion was discovered with the findings of jewelry at the Greek sites which proves that women in ancient Greece loved to wear all sorts of jewellery with their flowing garments—bracelets, earrings and necklaces •Even men were not left behind as far as ancient Greek fashion was concerned. It is known that men wore jewellery till the 4th century.

MAKE UP

•Ancient Greek women also used make up—pale or light skin was considered a status symbol for women. •Women used honey and olive oil to improve their skin •They often used substances as a substitute for cosmetics for enhancing their looks Dark powder was dusted over the eyebrows and red powder was used over their lips •Women also loved to wear their hair long during this period.

HAIRSTYLE

•Hairstyles in ancient Greece also changed over time •In the early days of Greece, men normally wore their hair short and grew beards •Later on beards went out of style •Long hair was typical for Greek women; only slave women would wear their hair short •Women curled and braided their hair in early Greece •Later the style was to tie their hair back or put it up into a bun.

ROMAN CLOTING

ROMAN CLOTING •Most people wore clothes made from wool or linen. Cotton cloth brought from India and silk from China were also used for making clothes, but they were too

expensive. •Fur was also used, especially in winter. •Clothes were usually made from large, uncut pieces of cloth, which were folded and pinned with pins, or tied with belts.

MEN’S CLOTING •A man´s basic clothing was a loincloth (underwear) and a tunic over it. •Tunics were made from two rectangles stitched at the sides and

shoulders, and tied with a belt. •If he were a citizen, he would also wear a toga. •A toga was a large piece of cloth wrapped round the body. 1. 2. 3.

Tunic Palla Stola

WOMEN’S CLOTING •Over the underwear, women wore a tunic made of wool or linen, with our without sleeves. •Over this they wore a dress called stola, which reached their ankles.

•They sometimes wore a shawl, called the palla, on top. It was a large rectangular piece of cloth which they could drape over the stola

in many ways. •Tunic •Palla •Stola

THE TUNICA •

• •

Nearly all Romans wore a simple tunic under more formal clothes, while slaves generally wore only a tunic A tunic worn as underwear was known as tunica intima. Male tunic would generally reach roughly to the knees, whereas women’s tunics would generally be longer, some reaching to the ground. Female tunics often also had long sleeves This was the most basic of the Roman garments. It was basically a long, woolen T-shirt that fell just below the knee. Most tunics were solid white,There was some formal differences in tunics which denoted social rank. Boys’ tunics, had a garnet-colored stripe.

THE TUNICA

STOLA STOLA and PALLA •

• • • • • •

•

The stola was a long, pleated dress, worn over an undergarment called a tunic or tunica intima (the Roman version of a slip). The stola was generally sleeveless but versions of it did have short or long sleeves. These sleeves could belong to the stola itself or be a part of the tunic. The traditional sleeveless stola was fastened by clasps at the shoulder called fībulae The stola was frequently worn with a a long shawl-like garment called a palla. It was worn when women went outside and typically went over one shoulder and draped across the body. It could also be pulled up over the head as a shawl. The stola typically had two belts, and was typically girt with ribbons The first was worn just below the breasts creating a great amount of folds. The second and wider belt was worn around the waist.

STOLA STOLA and PALLA Tunica Intima Stola

FĪBULAE

PALLA STOLA and PALLA

• The stola was a long, pleated dress, worn over an undergarment called a tunic or tunica intima (the Roman version of a slip). • The stola was generally sleeveless but versions of it did have short or long sleeves. • These sleeves could belong to the stola itself or be a part of the tunic. • The traditional sleeveless stola was fastened by clasps at the shoulder called fībulae.

PALLA STOLA and PALLA

TOGA STOLA and PALLA

•

In the early days the toga was worn directly on the naked body, then later a simple tunic was added, tied at the waist with a belt. There were some old families with ancient ancestry who insisted on continuing the tradition of dressing without a tunic, but their fellow Romans understood them somewhat eccentric. Basically the toga was a large blanket, draped over the body, leaving one arm free. Through experiments historians have concluded that the vast blanket took the form of a semi circle.

TOGA STOLA and PALLA

PLAYING SPORTS STOLA and PALLA

MAKE-UP

•Women wore make-up. •It was supposed to be beautiful to look very pale. This was probably to show that you were rich enough not to have to work outdoors.

•They coloured their lips with red. •Rich women spent lots of time and money in their hairstyles. They had slaves to do their hair for them. •They wore different hairstyles with plaits, curls and waves.

JEWELLERY

•Rings were the most common item of jewellery. They were worn both by women and men. •Roman women wore gold chains and necklaces. The most prized precious stones

were pearls. •Most also wore earrings.

FOOTWEAR

•They had different kinds of shoes. •Women wore elegant sandals, but a soldier´s boots were studded with nails. That

way he didn´t wear out when marching. •Shoes were usually made of leather.

FOOTWEAR TYPE • Men and women wore basically the same footwear.

• Calcei were a cross between a shoe and a sandal, and they were worn outdoors.

• Soleae were sandals that were worn indoors.

• Socci were slippers that were also meant for indoor use.

•FRANCE

FRANCE •Since the 16th century, France has been the fashion capital of the world.

France has top designers: Chanel, Christian Dior, Herms, Louis Vuitton, Dior. France is the country which reveals the latest fashion trends to the rest of the world. •Paris is known as the home to my high-end fashion houses; the French people are known for their understated elegance in clothing. •Many French people dress in a sophisticated, professional and fashionable style, but it is not overly fussy.

•Typical outfits include: nice dresses, suits, long coats and scarves . Cities like Lyon, Paris, Marseille, Lille, Mice and other cities produce and present luxuries clothing made out of rich fabrics.

MEN •Chemise: A knee length cotton or linen shirt, considered to be an undergarment •Culottes or Breech cloth: A pair of knee length pants, usually wool or linen, which button around the knees, or a cloth worn over the loins. •Hose: A pair of cotton or wool socks, knee high •Mitasses: A pair of protective garters worn over the lower legs, made of leather or wool, which button to the breeches or tie to a belt. •Guillette: Small short vest usually without sleeves, worn over the Chemise. • Capote or Justacorp: Heavy coat with large cuffs worn over all else, kind of like a suit coat.

WOMEN •Without exception they all wear caps, while their skirts are scarcely down the middle of their legs. but are sometimes provided with heels. They have a silver cross hanging down the breast •Jupon: A garment very similar to a skirt, only shorter. Many of these could be worn at once to show wealth and status. •Chemise: An underskirt or shift worn under all of the outer petticoats and the jupon. •Mantelet: A short women's waistcoat, worn with the jupon and chemise. •Fichu: A square or oblong piece of cloth used by women as a modesty scarf worn about the neck and shoulders •

AZZEDINE ALAII • Azzedine Alaii aka “king Of Cling” because he was known for creating the sexiest clothing n the world • First worked as a dressmaker 1957 and after many years went on to designing his own line. • He designed exercise clothing for women to show off their hard work. • 1980 in his ready to wear line he designed stretchy dresses, body suits, and bicycle shorts that defined the decade.

PIERRE CARDIN • Came up with the concept of space age design. • Geometric shapes and motifs. • He ignored the female form and advanced into the unisex fashions. • He believed that women should wear womens style clothing because it would be more convenient to their lifestyle.

CHRISTIAN DIOR • ‘The New Look’, which was the major shift in post-war fashion in the late forties. • The New Look is the brainchild of the ever fabulous Christian Dior and was part of a post-war attempt to revive France’s internationally acclaimed fashion industry. • Full bust lines • Tiny waists • Full skirts

COCO CHANEL • She offered relaxed styles and required no corsets. • Unstructured jackets and skirts in wool jersey, provided the modern women of 1920’s • Fashion Influence from 1920’s until World War II • Resurfaces in 1954 • Little black dress • Tweed Suit

JAPAN

KIMONO • The kimono is a traditional Japanese garment. The word "kimono", which actually means a "thing to wear" has come to denote these full-length robes. The kimono is always worn for important festivals or formal occasions. It is a formal style of clothing associated with politeness and good manners. • Kimono have T-shaped, straight-lined robes worn so that the hem falls to the ankle, with attached collars and long, wide sleeves. • Kimono are wrapped around the body, always with the left side over the right (except when dressing the dead for burial which is tied at the back. Kimono are generally worn with traditional footwear and split-toe socks. • A few older women and even fewer men still wear the kimono on a daily basis. Men wear the kimono most often at weddings, tea ceremonies, and other very special or very formal occasions. • Professional sumo wrestlers are often seen in the kimono because they are required to wear traditional Japanese dress whenever appearing in public.

FURISODE •A furisode "swinging sleeves“ is a style of kimono distinguishable by its long sleeves, which range in length from 85 centimeters to 114 centimeters. •The sleeves are attached to the body of the kimono only for a short distance; the inner edge is open for the rest of its length, allowing the lining to show on the inner edge (or both, if the sleeve is left open on the outer edge as well). •The furisode is made of very fine, brightly colored silk, and is commonly rented or bought by parents for their daughters to wear when celebrating Coming of Age Day the year they turn 20.By wearing a furisode, a young woman signifies that she is both single and a legal adult, and thus available for marriage. •Since furisodes can be quite expensive, many women rent them as needed rather than purchasing them.

FURISODE

YUKATA •

•

Yukata are worn by men and women. Like other forms of traditional Japanese clothing, yukata are made with straight seams and wide sleeves. Men's yukata are distinguished by the shorter sleeve extension of approximately 10 cm from the armpit seam, compared to the longer 20 cm sleeve extension in women's yukata. A standard yukata ensemble consists of a cotton undergarment (juban), and a foldable or fixed hand fan, and a carry bag. Yukata literally means bath(ing) clothes, although their use is not limited to after-bath wear. Yukata are a common sight in Japan during the hot summer months. Traditionally yukata were mostly made of indigo-dyed cotton but today a wide variety of colors and designs are available. As with kimono, the general rule with yukata is that younger people wear bright, vivid colors and bold patterns, while older people wear dark, matured colors and dull patterns. A child may wear a multicolored print and a young woman may wear a floral print, while an older woman would confine herself to a traditional dark blue with geometric patterns.

TRADITIONAL ACCESSORIES • Clasped purse • In Japan, purses that have clasps are called "gamaguchi," or "toad mouth," because when it's open it resembles a toad. Clasped purses have become popular among Japanese young people, and it's a standard at all Japanese sundry shops. They come in many varieties, including long wallets and coin purses.

TRADITIONAL ACCESSORIES • TABI • Tabi are the traditional Japanese style of socks that have the split toes. The word comes from the kanji for "foot" and "bag".

TRADITIONAL ACCESSORIES • SENSU • A sensu is the folding fan that you use when it's hot. When it's closed it resembles a stick and is easy to carry.

TRADITIONAL ACCESSORIES • OKOBO • Large platformed sandals worn by Maiko, usually made of wood and lacquered on the straps or all over

TRADITIONAL ACCESSORIES •

Parasols/Umbrellas

TRADITIONAL ACCESSORIES •

Kanzashi are cloth hair ornaments worn in complex traditional Japanese hairstyles They have numerous seasonal variations for each month and for special occasions such as New Years. Old Kanzashi often have large sharpened pins leading some to suggest that they were historically used for self defense.

England

England CLOTHING THE BIRTH OF POWER DRESSING • The Italians had a huge influence over the designs from the Renaissance period. •Clothing was more about displaying one's social status, as shown by the fabric material. •Permanent fashion characteristics in all countries: rich heavy materials in voluminous amount, large sleeves, close body garments, large hipclothing, wide-toed, heelless shoes and covered heads.

MALE CLOTHING Men's fashion The rich & opulent look! In order to "improve" the natural silhouette, men put large puffs at the head, shoulders, and thighs; small puffs over chest, back, arms, legs and feet. They also put feathers on everything from wide-brimmed hats to the knees. Most men's hair was bobbed and they wore variations of the lowcrowned, brimmed cap.

MALE CLOTHING

FEMALE CLOTHING Style is the prime factor! Women wore about 5 layers of clothing, so they took a long time getting ready. Costumes restricted freedom to move around, since they included the skirt, bodice, vest, underskirt and the collar. With gowns, women also wore a kirtle, which consisted of a tightly fitted bodice and a flowing skirt. Sleeves were often wide and the rich lined their sleeves with fur. Fashion accessories had a major part during this period. Jewels were sewn onto patterns and headgear was a must. Women adorned berets over their hair, which were also embellished with jewels. Most of the time women had the hair covered with some kind of headdress such as a: crescent, kennel, gable, transparent half-dome bonnet, or the gorget.

FEMALE CLOTHING

England CLOTHING What about hair styles?

Hair styles changed throughout the Renaissance. For men, long and short hair went in and out of style. The same was true of beards. At times, short cut hair with pointy beards was popular, while at other times long hair with a clean shaven face was popular.

CLOTHING RULES Were there any rules about clothes? Depending on where you lived, there were all sorts of laws and rules about clothing. Laws were often passed to try and keep the "lower" classes from wearing fancy clothes. In some areas only nobles were allowed to wear fur. In England they had a very long list of laws, called sumptuary laws, that specified who could wear what types of clothes. Depending on your station in life, you could only wear clothes of certain colors and materials.

EUROPEAN CLOTHING Children in Renaissance England were considered simply small adults, and their dress reflected this. Children were dressed in clothing very similar to their parents, and both young boys and girls wore dresses during infancy and toddlerhood. For young boys, this aided the mother in toilet training and care giving. When boys were old enough (usually around the age of seven, when they could start helping their fathers) they were "breeched," or put into their first pair of breeches, or hose. This practice continued up until the 19th century in the Western World, and portraiture of young children is often difficult to gender without tell-tale props such as swords or hats.

CHINA

WHAT CHINESE CLOTHING IS Chinese clothing was one of the most unique things in china’s history. The most common garment in Chinese clothing was the tunic which came in many different varieties. All of the Chinese clothing traditions had to be followed because if not you would be considered a barbarian or even a foreigner. (Which was considered a very bad thing because they were an isolated country.) Chinese clothing got changed a lot during time. Almost every time a new emperor came in a new trend would be introduced.

ANCIENT CLOTHING The tunic trend ❖ Social distinction by clothing ❖ The first sign of cotton ❖

THE TUNIC TREND Traditionally women in China would be seen in a long tunic that goes to the ground. They would tie it with a belt or a sash that if possible would have jade on it. Men would also have tunics but their would stop at their knees and underneath their tunics they would wear pants. Both men and women would wear padded jackets over their tunics during the season of winter.

Social distinction by clothing •The kind of fabric people used would tell other people of their social status. •Most of China’s population was not rich back then. All of these people would wear clothes made out of hemp or ramie. •There were two kinds of fabric in which they were very affordable but they still did what they were supposed to. •These people would have to make their clothes for themselves as they could not afford for it to be done for them. As for the richer people they would wear silk tunics & they would not have had to do the hard labour of making their clothes for other people would do it for them. •Then in the time of the Sui Dynasty in the 500s AD, Emperor Wendi decided that to wear all the poor people had wear blue or black & the only people who could wear colours were the rich people.

Chinese Silk Silk was first discovered in China in the 30th century BC in the time that the Yellow Emperor came in power. Silk is one of the best materials for clothing, but it was a very expensive material and only very fortunate people who could afford this material were able to wear it.

The introduction of cotton During the mong era the Chinese introduced cotton as a material to make clothes. The Mongols use of cotton spread around china and before long all of the mulberry trees used to make the silk had been destroyed. The introduction of cotton helped eliminate social distinction that had arisen due to different clothing materials that different classes used. Cotton was much better than hemp or ramie it was a soft material and it also looked decent, though it was a very good material it was still very cheap. Although cotton was supposed to be a summer material local people would pad their cotton clothes for winter

Traditional clothing: most popular dresses Pien Fu ❖ Sheni ❖ Chang Pao ❖

Pien Fu The Pien Fu was the most popular Chinese dress by far. It was a two piece outfit that contains a tunic that goes down to your knees. Underneath the tunic they wore a skirt that goes down to their ankles. But the Pien Fu would not be the Pien Fu with out the Pien, the Pien is a cylinder shaped hat. This is a very unique costume that was kept for special ceremonies.

Sheni The Sheni is a modification of the Pien Fu. It consists of exactly the same things as the Pien Fu but the unique thing about this dress is that both pieces are stitched together. So it look like on very long suit-dress.

Chang Pao This was perhaps the simplest of all traditional Chinese clothing. In its essence the Chang Pao dress was a fusion of the Sheni and the Pien Fu. It was a one piece suit that started from the height of the shoulders and extended down to the wearer’s ankles.

CLOTHING IN INDIA