Magazine Segers No1 2018 eng

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Nº1 2018

segers maga zine

P10 / Sebastian Pettersson on getting stuck in and getting going. P20 / Kerstin Johansson on Wrångebäck cheese.


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SEGERS


INTRODUCTION

MAGAZINE

A new year means a new start. This is our focus for this edition of the Segers magazine. Here at Segers, we have given our chef jackets and trousers a comprehensive overhaul. It’s now even easier to get an overview of our models and find something that suits your style in the kitchen. We also met up with Sebastian Pettersson, pastry chef at Oaxen, who is making a fresh start in the Swedish Culinary National team. From junior to senior – and new contests to win. You can also read about Wrångebäck cheese from Almnäs farm. Forgotten for almost fifty years, but now back stronger than ever.

Mia Kinn / Marketing Manager at Segers

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DESIGN / CONCEPT

SEGERS

1051 290 / CHEF’S SHIRT, SHORT SLEEVE. Slim fit. Breast pocket. Hanging loop in the collar. One-way zip. Slits in the sides. Yoke and longitudinal seams at the back. Quality 65/35/5% cotton/polyester/eol (stretch). Size C46-60. Colour 000 white, 015 black. Rec. price 60,67 € excluding VAT

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DESIGN / CONCEPT

MAGAZINE

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DESIGN / CONCEPT

SEGERS

1094 245 / 261 / SHIRT - WOMEN’S. Slim fit. Long sleeve with cuffs, buttons, slits. Breast pocket. Rounded hem. Slits in the sides. Loop outside back of collar for apron ties. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality 50/50 polyester/Tencel. Size C34-50. Colour 000 white, 011 light grey, 015 black. Rec. price 89,78 € excluding VAT 4087 699 / BIB APRON. Adjustable neck strap with button/buttonholes. Breast pocket, side pockets with rivets. Loop for hanging. Quality 100% cotton denim. Size approx. 80 x 90 cm. 015 classic black, 007 denim blue Herringbone. Rec. price 46,29 € excluding VAT

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DESIGN / CONCEPT

MAGAZINE

4085 699 / WAIST APRON. Side pockets with rivets. Loop for hanging. Quality 100% cotton denim. Size approx. 80 x 55 cm. 015 classic black, 007 denim blue Herringbone. Rec. price 46,29 € excluding VAT

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DESIGN / CONCEPT

SEGERS

1091 245 / 261 / SHIRT - MEN’S. Slim fit. Long sleeve with cuffs, buttons, slits. Breast pocket. Rounded hem. Slits in the sides. Loop outside back of collar for apron ties. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality 50/50 polyester/Tencel. Size C44-60. Colour 000 white, 011 light grey, 015 black. Rec. price 89,78 € excluding VAT 4574 201 / 280 / BIB APRON. Adjustable neck strap with buttons. No pockets. Quality 65/35% polyester/cotton. Size approx. 75 x 90 cm. Colour 000 white, 002 navy, 014 grey, 015 black, 011 light grey, 024 sand, 028 brown, 033 orange, 038 rust, 041 red, 043 dark red, 083 apple green, 086 olive. Rec. price 21,80 € excluding VAT

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DESIGN / CONCEPT

MAGAZINE

1094 245 / 261 / SHIRT - WOMEN’S. Slim fit. Long sleeve with cuffs, buttons, slits. Breast pocket. Rounded hem. Slits in the sides. Loop outside back of collar for apron ties. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality 50/50 polyester/Tencel. Size C34-50. Colour 000 white, 011 light grey, 015 black. Rec. price 89,78 € excluding VAT 2645 229 / WAIST APRON. Pocket on right side with bellows pleat/key holder. Loop for hanging. Quality 65/35% polyester/cotton. Size approx. 75 x 85 cm. 078 midnight blue, 116 anthracite, woven stripe. Rec. price 21,35 € excluding VAT

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INTERVIEW / SEBASTIAN PETTERSSON

SEGERS

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INTERVIEW / SEBASTIAN PETTERSSON

To get stuck in and get going.

MAGAZINE

The year is 2011 and Sebastian Pettersson is making espressos at café and bakery da Matteo in Gothenburg. He has lofty ambitions and is competing in the Swedish Championships (SM). He really wants to be a barista. But then pastry chef Fredrik Borgskog began working at the bakery, and Sebastian’s life took a whole new direction. Fredrik showed a drive and a way of working that turned the bakery into something else entirely. He just got stuck in and got going. At the same time he was still the world’s most humble man. This level was entirely new to me, and his drive was incredibly inspiring for me. At that time, I was really serious about coffee, but I soon began to get interested in the bakery. Today, you’re 22, work at Oaxen, you’ve won Olympic gold with the Junior Culinary National Team and are now competing with the Swedish Culinary National Team. What is it that inspires you? Most stuff. Fredrik is still an inspiration. For example, take the Mixtape menu project by Jimmy Wigh that Fredrik was also involved in - where they took old-school hip-hip and created dessert interpretations based on the music. Both are gifted designers and also creative, making cakes in the shape of baseball wood - nothing is impossible for their fertile imaginations. A total experience is more than just focused on taste. I think that’s cool and I’ve got huge respect for playfulness. But like most other people, I can find inspiration everywhere. Take France, for example. For me, French goods are fantastic, the respect, craftsmanship and artisanal knowledge. They are highly skilled in the techniques and always end up placed high in all competitions. Then they’ve got their older pastry chefs who really know their stuff, and complete respect for what the pastry chef profession brings with it down there. It inspires me and also makes me a tiny bit jealous. Of course we’ve got our Swedish ‘fika’ tradition, but it’s not the same thing as in France, and everything that follows as part of their traditions. Otherwise it’s sustainability and the ecological aspect that really characterises me. What is it like for you as a pastry chef to work ­ecologically? A large section of the pastry industry has sadly gone past seasonal thinking. Many use ready-made purees, chocolate and frozen berries. They don’t care enough. Overall, sustainable food is linked more to other dishes than just desserts. Why it’s gone this way I don’t know; it doesn’t really need to be this way. At Oaxen the situation's different. Here we really focus on what we can get hold of right here, right now. We use a lot of what can be found just outside our door, and our own farm produces the main ingredients for our dishes. Often we only have the ingredients for 2-3 weeks and then we have to rethink. That’s how I want to work. Now I’ve got involved and get to work on the development of the desserts, creating pralines and things like that. Instead of a limitation, I see it more as a driving challenge. You have to take your standpoint and show nature some respect, make use of what there is here on Djurgården.

But if many restaurants follow the same seasons, how do you make sure you’re doing something unique? Yes, that’s true. When Oaxen gets its rhubarb in, obviously all the other restaurants also get theirs. For me, design is important to stand out. The flavour combinations also allow us to work in a unique direction. Just because there’s rhubarb doesn’t mean that all Sweden’s chefs will do rhubarb and marigold flower desserts, for example. That ­particular combination might be chosen here at Oaxen because it suits our style. And we do a lot with fermentation as well. The other week we had a miso that was made in 2012. We can then mix seasonal ingredients with others to out our own spin on it. Each dessert is then discussed between us, Magnus and the head chef Ian, who can put his own stamp on it to make the dish really feel ‘Oaxen’. If design is important to you, how do you become a better designer? I actually closely follow many designers on social media. It’s not just food in my news feed, but a load of architecture and furniture design too. Netflix has many great ­sections on architecture. How do they think? How do they design the houses? That’s the type of thing I love looking at. If it’s a chair, a house or a painting that provides inspiration for a dish, it doesn’t matter to me. Just as long as it’s beautiful or aesthetically pleasing. Desserts are something that everyone expects to be beautiful. It’s about linking together a whole meal, so the dessert has to be really beautiful, elegant, ideally with some hidden secrets and bring out the diner’s curiosity. The cherry on the cake, so to speak! Is there a particular Sebastian Pettersson style? Hmm, I haven’t really considered that. If I look at what I do at Oaxen, it’s pretty far away from what I do in the culinary national team. That often needs more components and more technique to make a complete dessert. After all, the latest Olympic dessert had thirteen components. At Oaxen, we can instead have the world’s simplest dessert with only four or five components, but even so, it can be better. Our style is simplicity. It’s two different worlds, actually, but in the competition, it’s the jury that emphasises craftsmanship. It’s all about impressing. Both sides are great to work with, and I learn a lot. You are now representing Sweden in the Culinary National Team until 2020. How does that feel? The competitions are important for me. I had already competed as a barista, and the knowledge I gained from those competitions gave me what I wouldn’t have been able to get anywhere else. It’s tough, but it made me into a better pastry chef. You’re always learning, and don’t ever stop. I’m young, but what I’ve learned up to now is something I also want to share with others. I think people should always share their recipes and be transparent. If you don’t know, then ask. Knowledge should be available for everyone.

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DESIGN / CONCEPT

SEGERS

1081 629 / SHIRT - MEN’S. Slimmer fit. Long sleeves with cuffs, snap buttons and slits. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Two visible buttons at collar. Two breast pockets. Pen pocket on left breast pocket. Slits in the sides. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality 100% cotton. Size C44-56. Colour 076 dark blue. Rec. price 117,19 € excluding VAT 4070 699 / BIB APRON. Adjustable neck strap with metal buckle. Waistband adjusted with D rings. All pockets and other details in leather. Rivets for decoration. There may be dry deposits. Quality 100% cotton plus leather details. Size approx. 70 x 90 cm. Colour 076 dark blue denim. Rec. price 87,75 € excluding VAT

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DESIGN / CONCEPT

MAGAZINE

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DESIGN / CONCEPT

SEGERS

1072 629 / SHIRT - WOMEN’S. Slimmer fit. Long sleeves with cuffs, snap buttons and slits. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Two visible buttons at collar. Two breast pockets. Pen pocket on left breast pocket. Slits in the sides. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality 100% cotton. Size C34-46. Colour 076 dark blue. Rec. price 117,19 € excluding VAT

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DESIGN / CONCEPT

MAGAZINE

7220 515 / JACKET - WOMEN'S. Slim fit design with three buttons. Collar and lapel. Breast pocket, side pockets with flap, inner pockets. Lining 100% polyester. Length centre back 60 cm. Quality 44/54/2% wool/polyester/Lycra. Size C32-48. Colour 002 navy, 015 black, 116 anthracite. Rec. price 155,96 € excluding VAT 1228 306 / SHIRT - WOMEN’S. Slightly waisted model. Open-neck buttoning. Fold-up 3/4 sleeves with pen pocket on left side. Rounded hem. Quality 60/40% cotton/polyester, Fil á fil. Size XS-XXL. Colour 000 white, 006 light blue, 053 cerise, 071 aqua, 078 midnight blue, 111 light grey. Rec. price 42,25 € excluding VAT 2319 515 / SKIRT. Narrow model with no waistband; zipper and slit at centre back. Key holder. Lining 100% polyester. Length 55 cm. Quality 44/54/2% wool/polyester/Lycra. Size C32-48. Colour 002 navy, 015 black, 116 anthracite. Rec. price 79,33 € excluding VAT

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DESIGN / CONCEPT

SEGERS

2645 229 / WAIST APRON. Pocket on right side with bellows pleat/key holder. Loop for hanging. Quality 65/35% polyester/cotton. Size approx. 75 x 85 cm. 078 midnight blue, 116 anthracite, woven stripe. Rec. price 21,35 € excluding VAT

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DESIGN / CONCEPT

MAGAZINE

1221 223 / SHIRT - MEN’S. Straight fit with ¾ sleeves. Stand-up collar. Hanging loop in the collar. Snap buttons. Breast pocket. Side pockets in longitudinal seams at the front. Slits on both sides at the front. Stitching in contrasting colour. Quality 65/35% polyester/cotton. Size XS–XXL. Colour 078 midnight blue, 116 anthracite, mix. Rec. price 87,53 € excluding VAT 1224 223 / SHIRT - WOMEN’S. Straight fit with ¾ sleeves. Stand-up collar. Hanging loop in the collar. Snap buttons. Breast pocket. Side pockets in longitudinal seams at the front. Slits on both sides at the front. Stitching in contrasting colour. Quality 65/35% polyester/cotton. Size XS-XL. Colour 078 midnight blue, 116 anthracite, mix. Rec. price 87,53 € excluding VAT

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DESIGN / CONCEPT

SEGERS

1606 201 / CHEF’S JACKET SHORT SLEEVE - WOMEN’S. Classic cut, with bust darts, slightly waisted. Removable stud buttons included. Button colour same as stud colour. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality 65/35% polyester/cotton. Size C34-50. Colour 000 white, 015 black. Rec. price 24,94 € excluding VAT 5987 280 / WAIST APRON. Pocket on right side with bellows pleat and key holder. Loop for hanging. Quality 65/35% polyester/cotton. Size approx. 75 x 85 cm. Colour 000 white, 002 navy, 015 black. Rec. price 10,79 € excluding VAT

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DESIGN / CONCEPT

MAGAZINE

2146 203 / WAIST APRON. Classic model without pockets. Polyester strap. Quality 52/48% polyester/ cotton. Size approx. 75 x 50 cm. Colour 019 gingham black. Rec. price 9,78 € excluding VAT

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REPORTAGE / WRÅNGEBÄCK CHEESE

The cheese that vanished.

old. It all began with studying the dairy’s reports and documentation from the 50s and 60s, as well as doing some trial cheese-making thanks to Stiller’s great memory. A new production facility was built, but we reused as much material as we could find on the farm. For example, the cheese shelves from the old dairy could be used again, allowing us to also transfer the bacteria cultures that were still living in the wooden planks. This gave us an unbroken chain of bacteria cultures from at least 150 years ago. Did you manage to fully recreate the cheese? It was based on Hans Stiller’s documentation, reports and experience. We also invited people from around the local area who had worked in the dairy and had their own taste memories of that particular Wrångebäck cheese. What did they think to the taste of the modern cheese compared to their memories of it from before? Obviously it’s a difficult question for them to answer, but it’s this sort of information we have to consider. Then we have to take into account that animal husbandry is different now when compared to the 60s. Cow breeds have been refined over the decades and they now eat silage rather than hay. The 2017 Wrångebäck cheese differs quite considerably from that of 1961, but it also raises the issue of what we should have as our objective. Taste has definitely varied over the centuries. In all likelihood, the cheese from 1961 differed significantly from that produced in 1889. The Wrångebäck cheese of today is an organic, KRAV approved cheese made according to the farm conditions, heritage and tradition. A small-scale production that is high quality and one that we are very proud of. Each cheese weighs around 10 kg and is 31 centimetres in diameter. We press it together with the whey to obtain a close texture and some gas build-up inside the cheese. Until 1961 the cheese was waxed, but we have chosen to make it as it was at the time before paraffin began to be used at the turn of the last century. Instead, the surface is brushed with salt water and turns a rusty brick-red.

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SEGERS

In only a few years, Wrångebäck cheese has deser­ vedly gained a foothold in most of Sweden’s top ­restaurants. It appeared as if from nowhere. But it’s not actually a new cheese. A look through the ­archives shows that Wrångebäck is Sweden’s first registered cheese brand from 1889, but disappeared some time in the 1960s. What happened? The aroma is slightly acidic. The mouthfeel is smooth, dense, and creamy. The umami taste calls to mind the grassy-milky scent of a warm cow barn. This is how the taste of Wrångebäck cheese is described, recognised as one of the world’s best hard cheeses. It likely first became popular in 1889 when the Wrångebäcksosten brand was first registered. It was served to guests at the 500th anniversary dinner of the first Swedish Parliament in 1935 and at a ­charity event at Haga Castle in Stockholm, organized by Crown Princess Sibylla. But why did Wrångebäck cheese fall into the shadows for so many years? We had a moment to chat with Kerstin Johansson in the dairy at Almnäs Bruk. What happened with Wrångebäck cheese? Wrångebäck cheese has been manufactured here at Almnäs just outside of Hjo since the 1800s. Even in those days it was likely already a quality cheese. But when the 1960s came, industrialisation was a hard blow to S ­ wedish, small-scale food production. The dairy at Almnäs was closed in 1961, and for 47 years after this, it looks like there would never more be any cheese made here. But one day, Thomas Berglund who runs Almnäs Bruk with his sister, got in touch with me. Thomas is just as passionate about ecological food craftsmanship as me, and he had the idea to recreate the farm’s pride and joy - Wrångebäck cheese. How did you manage it? Two farm dairy hands were employed at Almnäs. I was one of them, and together we contacted Almnäs Bruk’s last known dairyman at the time of closure in 1961, Hans Stiller. This was in 2008 and Stiller was then 82 years


REPORTAGE / WRÅNGEBÄCK CHEESE

MAGAZINE

Kerstin Johansson and Elisabeth Andersson at Almnäs Bruk.

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REPORTAGE / WRÅNGEBÄCK CHEESE

SEGERS

How much is the flavour affected by the cow’s feed? Using hay again is something of a long-term dream for me. Hay contains several fatty acids which in turn provide more flavours than silage can. The fatty acids are important in terms of taste, and it’s been exciting to see what they do to the taste profile of the cheese. But it’s also a financial and practical issue. We have 350 cows and currently only use a small portion of the milk to make cheese. It’s extremely hard to dry enough hay that we need for all our cows. But it’s absolutely interesting to see how different types of silage and their composition are reflected in the cheese. Animal health is important to us and it is equally important that the soil is used in a good way. We are currently looking at a longterm ‘cradle-to-grave’ plan for the farm. What do we want to achieve? What should the crop rotation be? What crops should be grown? The process is slow, as you cannot turn on a sixpence in this industry. But we’re moving forward. Could you think of altering the recipe to see if you could make the cheese even better, or have you nailed the recipe now? We’ve got where we want to be, and now it’s about potentially fine-tuning the recipe in order to maintain the high quality. If you work with unpasteurised milk as we do here at Almnäs, the milk’s natural lactic acid bacteria will always influence the results. This will differ between each milking and influence the flavour profile of the cheese. But we humans must accept and work to Mother Nature’s terms when it comes to artisan food. Almnäs Bruk will never make

industrial products. We want to make a product that reflects the soil type and feed, as it always has been. Just like wine producers talk about their terroir and temperatures - the same applies for the cheese at Almnäs Bruk. We also experience natural variations over the year. The fat content, for example, drops during the grazing period when the cows go out. The cheese then has a slightly lower fat content. In the summer half of the year, the cheese can be slightly more yellow in colour. All these are variations we must accept and I think it’s something that makes the whole thing more interesting. Obviously, our quality must always remain high, the customer should always know what they’re getting. But the cheese can reflect the seasonal changes. Today, Wrångebäck cheese is available at ­several Swedish top restaurants and has gained major ­recognition. What was your original ambition? Obviously I wanted all our customers to taste our great cheese, but it’s also good if it’s eaten in a context where you understand and appreciate good food from an artisanal perspective. Our largest market is within Sweden, but the foreign export market is increasingly expanding. The USA loves Wrångebäck cheese, and they don’t make anything similar themselves. It’s unique to their tastebuds, and they are more used to Gruyere, Cheddar and the more continental cheeses. Of course we want to sell more, but never at the expense of quality control. We want to make honest cheeses.

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REPORTAGE / WRÅNGEBÄCK CHEESE

MAGAZINE

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DESIGN / CONCEPT

SEGERS

1091 245 / 261 / SHIRT - MEN’S. Slim fit. Long sleeve with cuffs, buttons, slits. Breast pocket. Rounded hem. Slits in the sides. Loop outside back of collar for apron ties. Hanging loop in the collar. Quality 50/50 polyester/Tencel. Size C44-60. Colour 000 white, 011 light grey, 015 black. Rec. price 89,78 € excluding VAT 4075 767 / BIB APRON. Breast pocket, pen pocket at right-hand bottom edge. Leather details, art. no. 0565, must be purchased separately. Must be removed before washing. Available in S/M, L/XL. Camouflage only available in L/XL. Quality 60/40% cotton/polyester, canvas. Size approx. 75 x 90 cm. Colour 010 dark grey, 015 black. Rec. price 35,17 € excluding VAT

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DESIGN / CONCEPT

MAGAZINE

1244 628 / DENIM SHIRT - WOMEN'S. Long sleeves with cuffs. Breast pockets with flap. Oxidised snap buttons. Round cut at bottom. Quality 100% cotton denim. Size XS-XXL. Colour 076 dark blue. Men’s style also available, art. no. 1245 628 076. Rec. price 70,00 € excluding VAT 0569 890 / LEATHER POCKET. Channel, approx 5 cm, for threading onto a belt (purchased separately), art. no. 0576 999. Inside pockets for telephone, pens. 100% goat leather, vegetable tanned. Size approx. 22 x 28 cm. Colour 028 brown. Rec. price 66,18 € excluding VAT

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DESIGN / CONCEPT

SEGERS

1605 201 / CHEF’S JACKET. Straight cut with seams at the back. Concealed closure with snap buttons. Quality: 65/35% polyester/cotton. Size: C44–C64. Colour: 000 white, 015 black. Rec. price: 24,94 €, excluding VAT. 1807 699 / HAND TOWEL. K. 6-pack. Quality: 100% cotton, approx 270g/m2. Wash: 85°C. Size approx. 50 x 80 cm. Colour: 005 blue. Rec. price: 18,09 €, excluding VAT.

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