THE TASTEMAKERS BRASSICAS

MEET THE TASTEMAKERS

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“Cauliflower is nothing but cabbage with a college education” writer Mark Twain once said. Vegetable grower Tom Simmons explains why Cornish-grown brassicas all deserve top-class status, with cauliflower taking centre stage on his own dining table

AS TOLD TO HELEN RENSHAW PHOTOGRAPHS IAN HARRISON

Asda Large Cauliflower,

£1.50 Whether you cheese it up or add some spicy appeal, this versatile veg is a winner.

the crops crops crops

Some days, Tom Simmons will pop out into the elds and stand among the crops holding a nice plump cauli – freshly picked for dinner later – and gaze across his land to the sea, wondering what he did to get so lucky. Farming’s a tough life, but 31-yearold Tom is a man in love with what he does.

‘Growing quality, a ordable veg is rewarding in so many ways,’ he says. ‘Riviera Produce has been supplying Asda with brassicas for over 20 years, and seeing the fruits of our labour looking fresh and lovely in store lls me with a deep sense of pride.

‘And best of all, I get to farm in Cornwall, the place I consider the most beautiful in the world. A er a day’s work, you’ll o en nd me jumping in the sea or walking on the beach with my ancée Alexandra and our cocker spaniel, Binky. Not a bad life, eh?’

Going back to your roots

Tom is the sixth generation to farm this glorious land, perched above a stunning coastline of hidden coves and gorgeous beaches. The story of Riviera Produce starts back in 1870 when Tom’s ancestor (‘don’t ask me how many greats!’) started farming in Cornwall.

‘I grew up here,’ says Tom. ‘Back then it was a small farm of just 100 acres, with dairy cows and vegetable crops. My childhood memories are of following my dad around and riding alongside him on the tractor, both of us chewing on straw... I’m joking about the last part, but it was a proper country upbringing.’

A er a day in the elds, the family would come home to his mum Suzanne’s cooking – all with homegrown veg. And Tom still eats homegrown produce almost every day, back in Falmouth, where he lives with Alexandra. ‘I’ll nip out and grab a handful of whatever looks tasty,’ he says. ‘I’ve picked up lots of tips from Mum on how to get the best out of our produce. My favourite is cauli ower, because it’s so versatile; you can roast it, tempura it, steam it, rice it and make a base for a pizza…

‘I love it every way, from traditional cauli ower cheese to whole roasted doused in Middle Eastern spices. I eat loads of our other produce, too – kale is fantastic for snacking. I add olive oil, salt and pepper, and stick it in the oven until it’s nice and crispy.’ Tom’s dad David can take credit for the growth of Riviera Produce, from the small enterprise it was to the 8,000-acre business it is today, employing over 500 people. His breakthrough was to focus on what we’re best at ‘and when it comes to growing brassicas, we’re really good at that!’ says Tom.

A year-round business

Cornwall’s mild climate makes it the perfect place to grow caulis all year round*, and Tom believes that the free-draining soil, mild climate, and sea air all enhance the avour of the crops too. ‘Dad and I work together and I have huge respect for what he’s achieved,’ says Tom. ‘If I become half the farmer he is, I’ll be happy.’

People o en imagine a big operation like Riviera Produce must be all giant prairie-style elds, but nothing could be further from the truth at Higher Trevaskis Farm, which is a patchwork of around 1,000 small elds, separated by ancient hedgerows.

The crops are too delicate for machinery, so everything is picked by hand. The Simmons family is hugely proud of its track record when it comes to sustainability. It practises regenerative farming, which allows the soil to

“Seeing our produce in store fills me with pride”

replenish itself naturally. Chemical use has been massively reduced by planting a cover crop called Phacelia – also known as green manure – between the brassicas to improve soil structure and help build organic matter. All is good news for the vegetables that follow. Phacelia’s purple owers are great for insect life, too, encouraging natural predators like ladybirds to feed on pests, reducing the use of pesticides.

Instead of ploughing the land, they strip till, which only disturbs the surface of the soil. This leaves bacteria and worms to create a healthy soil structure undisturbed, reduces erosion and lessens CO2 losses from the soil. All of this bene ts the environment.

‘People matter to us, too,’ says Tom. ‘We have around 250 people. Lots are local, but we also employ people from Kazakhstan and Mongolia. We organise events, hiring buses for days out at local attractions and holding parties, which are always fun.’ The company also works closely with a local charity, collecting produce that can’t be sold. It’s redistributed to local food banks. There’s very little waste.

‘Suppliers like us don’t o en get the chance to interact directly with the public, but we occasionally get comments from people on our Facebook page, thanking us for the quality of our produce,’ says Tom. ‘It’s a fantastic feeling when that happens. I mean, how lucky am I?’

Keeping it in the family:

Tom Simmons and his father David stride among the delicate vegetables, which are picked by hand

Pep it up

Cheese reigns – use any odds and ends of cheese you have in your fridge – but for a smoky sauce add a pinch of paprika.

Whole baked cauliflower cheese

We’ve re-imagined this rich and moreish pub classic by turning it into a showstopper recipe, perfect alongside a Sunday roast.

Serves 8 | Ready in 1 hr Fa factor | V EF

• 1 large cauliflower (around 1kg) • 45g unsalted butter • 45g plain flour • 500ml semi-skimmed milk, warmed • 2tsp Dijon mustard • 140g 50% less fat mature cheddar, grated • ½ bunch chives, finely chopped

1 Break o any larger leaves but keep on the smaller ones. Cut the very bottom o the base o the cauliflower so it sits upright. Sit the head in a large, deep saucepan. Cover with water and bring to a simmer. Once simmering cook for 10 mins. 2 Preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4. Meanwhile melt the butter in a saucepan. Add the flour and cook, stirring, for 2 mins. Gradually add the milk, whisking continuously until smooth. Bring to a simmer and cook over a medium-low heat for 5 mins, whisking continuously. Whisk in the cheese (reserving a small handful for later) and mustard and cook for a further 2 mins. Season to taste with salt and black pepper and stir through most of the chives. 3 Place the cauliflower in a roomy baking dish. Pour over the cheese sauce and top with the remaining cheese and chives. Bake for 30 mins until golden and bubbling. Leave to cool slightly then serve in wedges.

Each 162g portion contains

Energy 739kJ 177kcal 9% Fat 9.4g Med 13% Sat Fat 5.2g Med 26% Sugars 5.3g Low 6% Salt 0.57g Med 10%