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THE GREEN ISSUE AZORES p. 74 CURITIBA p. 66 GALÁPAGOS p. 72 ICELAND p. 68 OSLO p. 64 LJUBLJANA p. 62 SAN FRANCISCO p. 60 SINGAPORE p. 54

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letter from the editor ®

GOING GREEN WELCOME TO OUR SECOND annual Green Issue! We debuted themed issues in 2017, and we pick up where we left off with our first of 2018.

This year we added a fourth themed issue. This month we cover some of the world’s most ecofriendly destinations, continuing with our June Wellness Issue, our August Wine Issue and our November Cruising Issue.

How do you stay green as a traveler? We regularly partake in an industry where being “green” can be difficult and where issues of “greenwashing” exist. I personally try to follow a few tips when I travel to help minimize my impact. Here are five to put into practice; they’re easier than you think.

Book non-stop flights. It may not always be cheaper, but it’s typically more convenient, and the take-offs and landings create most of a plane’s MEET PARKER: carbon emissions. Some airlines also offer carbonKimberly Krol with Park Hyatt Chicago’s resident pug offset programs.

PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL While in your hotel room, there are a few small ways you can be more sustainable with minimal effort. Separate recycling and trash — most hotels offer split trashcans. Opt to reuse towels and sheets.

Take showers as opposed to baths, and try not to use hotel laundry.

I pack toiletries in reusable bottles I fill from my household supply rather than buying new, travel-sized face wash, body wash or hair products for each trip. You can also take the half-used in-room amenities home with you to reuse and refill.

Opt to walk or use public transportation whenever possible. It’s great exercise and it offers a glimpse into the local life while also helping the city you’re visiting.

Think of the environmentally friendly practices you’ve implemented in your day-to-day life at home.

Can you bring these habits on the road? I use reusable grocery bags at home, so I throw one in my suitcase in case I shop. Helpful hint: This can also be a money saver, as some destinations charge for plastic shopping bags. Do you fill a water bottle for hydration while at home? Pack your reusable water bottle, or get one you keep in your suitcase at all times. You wouldn’t leave your home’s air-conditioning or heat blasting while you’re out, so be mindful of the same when leaving a hotel room.

If you’re looking for the perfect eco-friendly destination in which to put your sustainable practices into effect, consider this issue your guide. We examined some of the world’s greenest destinations in a journey that traverses from Taipei, Singapore, San Francisco and Ljubljana to Oslo, Curitiba, Iceland, the Galápagos Islands and the Azores. For more tips and tricks for reducing your carbon footprint, read Megan Hill’s article on page 42.

Next month we celebrate our 200th issue. Join us for the celebration and for a closer look at hot destinations including Greenland and Fiji. Until then, here’s to your future eco-friendly journeys!

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Digital Content Producer DEBRA BOKUR debra.bokur@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Digital Coordinator ALLIE MENZIONE allie.menzione@globaltravelerusa.com ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

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KRISTY ALPERT MARGARET BACKENHEIMER J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT EUNICE FRIED MARY B. GALLAGHER JACK GUY ALLIE MOORE

KRISTY ALPERT ELYSE GLICKMAN JACK GUY MEGAN HILL DALE LEATHERMAN KARIN LEPERI GREG MCCLUNEY CHADNER NAVARRO RICHARD NEWTON re, In Singapo CARLEY THORNELL on

ete bios, For compl usa.com altraveler visit glob

CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE

if a pers nd a date cannot fi partner, or a life ment’s the govern t evelopmen D l ia oc S creates k or w et N ities and opportun marriages es ot om pr les. ng si g on am e about Read mor on Singapore page 54.

ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN, Director of Technology BOB HANCOCK, Director of Digital Advancement JARED TORGAN GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN

KIMBERLY KROL, EDITOR IN CHIEF

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letter from the publisher ® ®

GLOBAL INSPIRATION THE TEAM AT GLOBAL TRAVELER frequently travels to New York City from our Bucks County, Pa., office, which we fondly call World Headquarters. The rail commute can be as swift as 50 minutes from Trenton, N.J., to New York Penn Station. (Senior vice president Richard Evans and I commuted every day to New York for countless years in rain, sleet or snow.) I have to give a shout-out SUPER CELEBRATION: Francis X. Gallagher with Global Traveler Advisory Board president to our conductor on Amtrak train No. 653 Mike Donahue at the Eagles parade in Philadelphia (Keystone Service) from New York to Trenton PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER March 12. She was polite to everyone, saying “Please” and “Thank you” to each passenger while collecting tickets. I told her she was the nicest and most polite conductor I ever had on Amtrak. She was beaming, grateful for the compliment, which seemed to make her day!

The point is, when we travel, kindness goes a long way. My team accuses me of talking with everyone I meet — the airport security agents, the flight attendants on board, the Hertz representative at the exit gate and the check-in clerk at the hotel. Often you can disarm a situation, such as a delay, by starting any process before issues arise with a smile, just like the young lady on Amtrak. I wish I got her name, but Amtrak can commend her through this letter.

We are working diligently toward the launch of FX Excursions, a new product offering readers of Global Traveler and our three digital platforms — globaltravlerusa.com, trazeetravel.com and whereverfamily.com — the ability to follow itineraries we create to global destinations, customized tours through a professionally vetted operator and specialty trips accompanied by one of the global leaders at FXExpress Publications. A pull-down from each platform’s menu bar, highlighted as FX Excursions/Tours, will take readers to options for review and booking. We are excited!

That reminds me I have not booked a fall trip. Most of our readers plan their big yearly trips 12–18 months out, but I tend to turn these around rather swiftly. A simple meeting may spark my travel. My meeting with South African Airways last spring encouraged me to take my family to Africa last June. This past week, we met with the marketing team at Ponant Cruises, which offers unique themed cruises on smaller luxury ships.

The themes for 2019 are gardening, family (focusing on multigenerational travel), food and wine, music, world affairs, World War II history (Asia), art (Dutch Masters) and Antarctica. Ponant brings a unique French experience to cruising — remember, the French were great world explorers. Ponant also won many awards for environmental friendliness, befitting our Green Issue.

I’m inspired by Turkish Airlines to travel to Turkey’s Antalya region for golf. It has been ages since my last visit, and this would make an exceptional FX Excursions specialty trip. Besides world-class golf (at last count, 19 courses), Antalya has magnificent Roman ruins, is not overcrowded and welcomes American tourists with the smile I spoke of earlier.

Join us!

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REPRESENTATIVES Egypt CARMEN DOYLE and HASSAN SHEHAB tel 61 0 403866188 carmen.doyle@afrozinternational.com hassan.shehab@afrozinternational.com France, The Netherlands JEREMY PRADERIO-REGIE tel 09 54 20 09 50 | cell 06 07 96 54 15 j.praderio@regiepem.com Germany MICHAELA JUSTI tel 49 69 56 02 01 21 | fax 49 69 56 02 01 23 | cell 49 171 20 29 502 justi@mediasalescompany.de India FAREDOON KUKA tel 91 22 2925 3735 | cell 91 98200 85045 kuka@rmamedia.com Japan YOSHIZUMI MIYAKE, MEDIAHOUSE INC. tel 3 3222 7811 | fax 3 3234 1140 miyake@mediahs.com HIDETADA KOCHI tel 81 3 3222 7811 | cell 81 3 90 8774 9800 fax 81 3 3234 1140 kochi@mediahs.com Mexico CARLOS ALBERTO FRIAS tel 52 55 5254-4490 afrias@fgasociados.mx South Korea JEFF HWANG tel 82 31 702 7782 | cell 82 10 3498 9117 gng@gngcom.co.kr Spain LUIS ANDRADE tel 34 91 788 2001 | fax 34 91 395 6396 landrade@luisandrade.com

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contents

April 2018 42

62

FEATURES

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

42 Watch Your Step Be mindful of your environmental impact at home and on the road.

54 Destination One: Singapore Urban planners weave conservation into development as Singapore goes green.

46 Good Intentions, Great Actions To make a real difference, choose an eco-friendly voluntourism program.

60 Stateside: San Francisco A surge in green policies and projects keeps San Francisco fresh.

50 Smart City Turn to Taipei for international events in a prime location.

62 9–5: Ljubljana Sustainability practices add to the ease of doing business in Ljubljana.

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ON THE COVER

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64 After 5: Oslo Discover the hot spots to meet cool people in Oslo.

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April 2018

THE GREEN ISSUE AZORES p. 74 CURITIBA p. 66 GALÁPAGOS p. 72 ICELAND p. 68 OSLO p. 64 LJUBLJANA p. 62 SAN FRANCISCO p. 60 SINGAPORE p. 54

COVER PHOTO: WATER IN A FISSURE IN THE THINGVELLIR NATIONAL PARK, ICELAND © LEONID ANDRONOV | DREAMSTIME.COM

DREAMSTIME.COM, © SKIDMORE OWNING & MERRILL

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PHOTOS: © KASTO80 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © KASTO80 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ROBW58 |

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April 2018

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LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 78 81

10 13 16 22

66 Neighborhoods: Curitiba Stroll the abundant green spaces of Curitiba.

Technology Wine & Spirits Tours Spas Wealth Golf Chefs Cruising LGBTQ Health

Mail Call News Reviews One on One Delta Sky Club 24 One on One Kimpton Everly Hollywood Hotel 80 Airport Update 82 Past & Present

68 Friends & Family: Iceland Explore how natural forces forged Iceland’s rugged landscape.

72 Bucket List: Galápagos Islands Gear up for the ultimate photo op with rare beasts in the Galápagos Islands.

74 Kicking Back: Azores Bask in the lush, dramatic vistas of Portugal’s Azores.

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FX E X P R E S S

P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material.

AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2018 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

PHOTOS: © FOUR SEASONS HUALĀLAI SPA, © LEONID ANDRONOV | DREAMSTIME.COM, © DIEGO GRANDI | DREAMSTIME.COM

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mail call MARCH Q&A WITH ASHLEY RICHARDS

Q&A WITH JULIE HAUPIN, ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

In the March 2018 issue, account executive Ashley Richards talked about her recent trip to The New York Times Travel Show. The show inspired the question: What do you look for when planning a first-time trip? If you’ve completed a recent trip, did it meet your expectations?

My life recently got a little more golden when I became a dog owner to a sweet golden retriever, Lacie. She loves bananas and peanut butter, playing fetch and never leaving me alone.

Airports and hotels are increasingly pet-friendly. However, with all this talk regarding animals and airports, pet relief stations and emotional support pigs, peacocks, hamsters and monkeys, I wonder if my dog Lacie will ever accompany me on a plane.

Have you taken a pet on an airplane? If so, do you have any tips on how to make it a smooth ride?

I’m a history person. If I’m going somewhere for the first time, I need something to give me a taste of the place’s past, even if it’s only one small museum.

The more random and specific the museum, the better. One of the strangest I’ve been to this past year was the Museum of Broken Relationships in Zagreb.

I can’t even describe it — you have to see it for yourself. That would actually make an interesting article for GT: The Weirdest Museums in the World. I’d also add the Old Operating Theatre Museum in London to that list.

even better than I anticipated, the people friendlier and more accommodating than expected for such a large city, and there were some surprisingly quiet, peaceful parts of the city, which I didn’t expect. Overall, I strongly recommend it, but it’s true — you really don’t know what you’re going to get, and it’s important to keep expectations in check.

REID LEWIS, Carthage, Texas

AMBER VENTERS, Hanover, Md.

I just recently came back from Hong Kong, and it was my first time there. Overall, it was an incredible trip. I’d say there are certain aspects that didn’t meet my expectations but several other parts exceeded them. Despite research, I was surprised at just how large the city is and how long it can take to get from one part to the other (the coffee situation is also wanting).

That being said, the food was

Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

HUMAN TOWERS Thanks for introducing me to the Human Towers competition through your article. I went online to learn more and found the primary competition takes place in the Tarraco Arena Plaza in Tarragona. Do you know what date that occurs this year? I have been unable to confirm this year’s date even though I have learned there are other

competitions elsewhere in Catalonia. Thanks for any advice you can share.

EDWARD HATCHETT, via email Editor’s Note: Hi, Edward. The biggest non-competitive Human Towers events in Tarragona are the Sant Magí festival on Aug. 19 and the Santa Tecla festival on Sept.

16, 23 and 24. There will also be an event June 24, St. John Day. The largest competitive human tower competition will be held Oct. 6–7 in Tarraco Arena Plaça (the ancient bullring). This competition takes place every two years.

TRAIN TRAVEL I recently read with great delight in the January issue of GT about your shared passion for train travel. Indeed, I also subscribe to rail journeys as the last civilized “Golden Age of Travel” mode of enjoyable transpor-

tation. Among my many rail journeys, I completed a bucketlist (I prefer to call it a life-list) luxury train journey last April on Belmond Royal Scotsman, via a four-day journey through the mystical highlands of my native bonnie Scotland. Next up, I am looking at Belmond’s new sister train, the Grand Hibernian, which travels on two-, four- and sixday rail journeys through the Emerald Isle.

JAMES FERGUSON, Dana Point, Calif.

CORRECTION: JANUARY ISSUE Editor’s Note: We regret an error in our January issue. We incorrectly labeled Singapore Airlines’ new suites as business class. The new suites, which debuted in December, are first-class suites. We apologize for the error.

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler.

We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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SEA OF THREE CONTINENTS My husband and I did an eight-day Southern Mediterranean cruise with Viking last year, and it was one of our favorites. It departed from Rome and ventured to Tunis, Valletta and Sardinia, ending in Barcelona (my personal favorite city). Everywhere we went was beautiful. We usually prefer the Mediterranean to a Caribbean cruise. Next on our list is Alaska.

ANNE QUIROZ, Akron, Ohio

REASONS TO SMILE I’m a big fan of Alaska Airlines. I live in Everett, and I saw the airline’s adding flights from Paine Field in the fall. I’m expected in L.A. a couple of times a month for work, so the new flight will make my life a lot easier. I’ve never had a problem with the airline, which isn’t something I can say about all of them.

DAVID GUTIERREZ, Everett, Wash.

PREMIUM PLUS I saw the article on your website about United’s new Premium Plus cabin coming on international flights later in 2018. You mentioned more space — long overdue on United. I haven’t been able to check out Polaris, but I’m curious if Premium Plus will be similar. Usually premium economy just means slightly more legroom and a way larger price tag, but I hope United doesn’t follow this trend.

WILLIAM HODGES, via email

AIRBNB AND BUSINESS In the Feb. 21 issue of eFlyer USA we talked about how rental company Airbnb is adjusting and adding to its business model to incorporate more business traveler-friendly features and address concerns some companies have using the tool for work-related travel.

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APRIL 2018

I’ve used Airbnb a couple of times for trips with friends, but my company isn’t fully open to the idea of using it for work trips. I suggested it for Los Angeles in particular after seeing the price differences and the beauty of some of the rentals. I look at Airbnb a little bit like Uber and Lyft. When they started, people were hesitant to use them over cabs, but they quickly became the norm. I can understand the hesitation, but it sounds like the company is facing some of those doubts head on. It’ll be interesting to see what it does next.

ROB RAO, via email

CRUISE INDUSTRY FLOURISHES In the Feb. 28 issue of eFlyer USA, we talked about the rapid growth in popularity of cruises, thanks in large part to more immersive experiences and innovative technology. We invited our readers to share their recent cruises experiences and asked, “Have you witnessed an overall improvement?”

This article doesn’t surprise me at all.

We had several friends take cruises lately, and we’re taking one later this year. I think the biggest positive change people see is a move away from the way-too-big cruise ship experience — average-at-best food, watered-down drinks, expensive packages, crowded pools and even more crowded port calls in overly touristy destinations. Ships are either getting smaller, though, or large ships add more personalized services. A friend went on a Carnival Cruise with the new wearable Medallion, which she said worked really well. She mostly used it to order drinks to the pool, but she said she felt it improved the customer service aspect of her trip. We’re really looking forward to our cruise with Norwegian in December.

JILL HEANEY, via email

HANGZHOU

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE kicking back | COOK

ISLANDS

fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

i

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, viognier, even Riesling. but none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. it begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. but no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. it is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many asian foods. as americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20. and what are the most attractive Torrontés? among two dozen that i’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites.

Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish. its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. it goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine.

IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos la linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth.

Finca el origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind andoffering soul ain is clean, crisp and refreshing, famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the a particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster BY mouth.

BECCA HENSLEY Cook Islands. harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones.

PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit.

72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

Art of Healing

INFO TO GO

A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.

ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE A

May 2011 | GLOBAL TRAVELER | 35

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RANKING: WORLD’S BEST ON-TIME AIRPORTS Flight delays are so ubiquitous in modern-day travel they are almost expected, especially for late-afternoon and evening flights. But despite the rising number of delayed flights, a few airports actually maintain decent on-time performances. A recent study released by OAG — a U.K.-based flight data and status service — revealed which airports experience the highest number of on-time arrivals and departures. Once the OAG divided the airports into four categories based on size and traveler turnover, it collected and analyzed data for at least 80 percent of all scheduled flights. “On-time” statistics mean the flight departed or landed within 14 minutes and 59 seconds of the scheduled time.

The mega airports with the highest OTPs were Tokyo Haneda (HND), Madrid-Barajas (MAD), Atlanta (ATL), Denver (DEN) and Dallas/Fort Worth (DFW). These airports are classified as mega because they send off a minimum of 30 million departing passengers per year. The top major airports (those with 20–30 million departing passengers per year) are Minneapolis-St. Paul (MSP), Doha (DOH), Moscow Sheremetyevo (SVO), Detroit (DTW) and Phoenix (PHX).

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GT ’s independently run weekly travel email newsletter written for the Asian travel market.

The U.S. State Department has been the go-to resource for the latest international security information, including details regarding the locations where travelers should be extremely cautious and the areas travelers should avoid altogether. Although the site provides this helpful information, it’s not always clear why the warnings are in place and how travelers should proceed.

The State Department introduced a new algorithm that replaces the standard travel alerts and travel warnings for specific countries with a tiered system indicating the safety level of every country in the world at any given time. Instead of needing to determine the meaning of an “alert” versus a “warning,” travelers can access a general Travel Advisory page and view their destination country with one of four levels of instruction: (1) exercise normal precautions, (2) exercise increased caution, (3) reconsider travel or (4) do not travel. Within each of these levels, letter indicators identify the specific danger: (C) for crime, (T) for terrorism, (U) for civil unrest or (N) for natural disaster, among others. Travelers should be aware regions within a country may exhibit different warnings for different reasons, which the advisories will also indicate.

American Airlines Shuttles to Serve Wine and Beer

As the luxury of in-flight food and drink service seems to slowly slip away, American Airlines plans to add an unexpected perk to one of its most traveled routes for business travelers. Not only will AA launch hourly shuttle flights from New York City to Chicago during the week, but also the airline will offer free beer and wine on board.

Beginning April 4, these 15 daily flights will travel between Chicago’s O’Hare International Airport and New York’s LaGuardia Airport, with departures on the half hour, offering convenient service for business travelers who frequent the two cities. American offers similar scheduled service among New York (LGA); Washington, D.C. (DCA); and Boston (BOS) airports. aa.com

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news British Airways Improves In-Flight Catering

Despite the cuts British Airways and other airlines have made to in-flight services, one area the airline decided to spare is its catering offerings. As of January, BA passengers in World Traveler seats (long-haul economy) now receive four-course meals as well as upgraded snack baskets.

Upgrades include serving individual water bottles to passengers, rather than handing out water in plastic cups, and serving a pizza wrap as the second meal in place of a smaller snack.

After the airline cut out free snacks for shorthaul flights in 2017 and opted to sell in-flight food and beverages as a replacement, BA invested $5.9 billion into passenger-pleasing aesthetics such as improved cabin designs, hiring more staff for busy flight times and enhancing its meal service, with the goal of remaining a premium airline. britishairways.com

Service Helps Find the Best Hotel Rates Wyndham to Purchase La Quinta

By the end of 2018’s second quarter, Wyndham Worldwide plans to close a deal that involves purchasing La Quinta Holdings for an estimated $1.95 billion. With this acquisition, the Wyndham Hotel Group will comprise 21 brands and upwards of 9,000 properties in 75 countries.

Based on the terms of the agreement, La Quinta — celebrating its 50th anniversary this year — will become a part of the Wyndham hotel division and will continue to cater to the midscale traveler. Wyndham’s interest in La Quinta began in January 2017 when La Quinta announced it would divide the company into a management business and a separate real estate investment trust. With hopes of expanding its brand into the management sector, Wyndham saw an opportunity with La Quinta to become a larger name in the midscale and upper midscale market.

With the number of websites, apps and plug-ins available to aid the search for the best hotel deal, it can be difficult to know where to start. A new startup called Service does the legwork for you, bringing the cheapest room rates directly to your email inbox.

Service keeps an eye on members’ inboxes, specifically singling out messages with hotel room confirmations. If Service finds a better deal for the same room, it will automatically rebook the reservation and keep 30 percent of the difference between the first room and the second room as commission.

Service’s services don’t stop there: The plug-in can also claim compensation for flight disruptions such as delays and cancellations.

wyndhamhotels.com

getservice.com

The German airline Lufthansa has once again been named Europe’s largest airline, a title the airline also held in 2015.

In 2016 the title went to Irish discount airline Ryanair, which recently had to cancel thousands of flights due to staffing issues. In 2017 Lufthansa transported 130 million passengers, just 1 million more than Ryanair. Factors that contributed to Lufthansa’s growth and reclaimed status include the acquisition of Brussels Airlines, the departure of airberlin from the competition space and the fact the airline travels both short and long distances while Ryanair only covers short routes.

As Europe’s biggest airline, Lufthansa also plans to expand its budget airline, Eurowings, in 2018. lufthansa.com

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PHOTOS: © WYNDHAM, © KEN WOLTER | DREAMSTIME.COM

Lufthansa Europe’s Largest Airline

deals & rewards

PHOTOS: © SHERATON KONA RESORT AND SPA AT KEAUHOU BAY, © STEVE MANN | DREAMSTIME.COM, © HILTON AT THE AGEAS BOWL/SOUTHAMPTON

Air Canada’s New Loyalty Program

SPG Free Night in Hawai’i or French Polynesia

Members of the Starwood Preferred Guest loyalty program can take advantage of a free fourth or fifth night at one of 15 participating Starwood properties in Hawai’i and French Polynesia from now until June 30. Members must use the discount code SPG354N for a free fourth night and SPG355N for a free fifth night.

A minimum stay of four nights is required for Sheraton Kona Resort and Spa at Keauhou Bay, Le Méridien Tahiti and Le Méridien Bora Bora, while a minimum stay of five nights is required for all other properties. starwoodhotels.com

Improvements to Hilton Honors

Hilton Honors members who stay in Hilton properties for at least 40 nights each year will be privy to a slew of new benefits provided by the rewards program.

Beginning this month, Silver tier members who spend 40 nights per year in a Hilton property can earn a 20 percent bonus on points collected for that stay, while Gold members can receive an 80 percent points bonus and Diamond members will receive a points bonus of 100 percent.

Members who surpass the threshold of 40 nights per calendar year will earn a bonus of 10,000 points for every 10th night beyond the first 40 nights.

By 2020 Air Canada plans to completely revamp its 10-year-plus loyalty program (Aeroplan, eventually acquired and managed by Aimia) and create a brandnew program. Originally conceptualized in 2002, the program has seen few updates, so a complete overhaul is long overdue in order to coincide with changes in technology and passenger preferences. Executives at Air Canada surveyed some of their customers and plan to make the program easier for members to understand in terms of accruing and redeeming points, as opposed to other programs with point systems that can seem cumbersome and overwhelming for the average traveler. aircanada.com

Airbnb Changes Payment Policy

Popular home-sharing site Airbnb implemented a new payment policy to appease guests and make it easier to pay for reservations.

Previously, Airbnb required a full advanced payment from guests in order to secure a booking, but now Airbnb’s “Pay Less Up Front” policy lets travelers book by paying just a deposit (typically 50 percent), with the remainder to be paid at least 14 days before the arrival date. The only catch is the rental price must be $250 or more.

Through surveys of both guests and owners, Airbnb learned travelers are willing to book more expensive lodging when they are able to pay in installments, which in turn can bring more bookings to owners. airbnb.com

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FAIRMONT DALLAS Reviewed by Carly Allen

TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ Enjoy great menu choices at the Pyramid Restaurant and in-room dining. ◆ Fairmont Dallas is located in the heart of downtown, surrounded by 5-star dining options. ◆ The friendly staff is perfectly suited for the business traveler. ◆ The rooftop pool is a must if you have a weekend free.

FAIRMONT DALLAS 1717 N. Akard St. Dallas, TX 75201 tel 214 720 2020 fairmont.com

Guest Quarters: I stayed in the Panhandle Suite, one of Fairmont Dallas’ onebedroom suites. A short hallway led into a large living space where I spent most of my time. A small desk sat to the right with plenty of outlets via the lamp base for my laptop, although I used the four-person dining table against the floor-to-ceiling windows while getting some work done. A full sectional and Queen Anne wing chairs filled the space, facing a large television sitting atop the stocked minibar cabinet.

In the large bedroom, the floor-to-ceiling windows continued. A king-sized bed dominated the room, and chic modern lamps and hanging mirrors added a nice touch, along with a full-length mirror. The TV and dresser sat a bit awkwardly far from the bed in a darker corner. However, the nice-sized walk-in closet more than made up for it. The marble bathroom featured a shower/bath combination, and the single sink vanity had good light and Rose 31-branded toiletries. Per the Fairmont experience, I had a nice surprise when I noticed my name customized on all the Rose 31 bottles, which smelled divine and went home with me.

Services/Amenities: The Fairmont offers nice dining options for business travelers, including the Pyramid Bar and Restaurant. Unfortunately, the bar was closed for a

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private event during my stay; however, I heard it’s a great evening spot for drinks. The restaurant serves seasonal menu options. I had a great lunch starting with some of the best shishito peppers I’ve ever tried and a Caesar salad with a unique coconut and lavender lemonade. The property also hosts a Starbucks, which I loved as I ran out the door for a day of meetings.

The rooftop of Fairmont Dallas is a great amenity, with its views of downtown Dallas. You can spend all day by the junior Olympic pool with drink and food service or roam the herb garden.

PHOTOS: © FAIRMONT DALLAS

Arrival/Check-In: Arriving in Dallas in the early afternoon ensured light traffic conditions from Dallas Love Field Airport, just 15 minutes from downtown. The hotel valet took my car and, due to the warm and windy weather, I was quickly ushered into the expansive lobby. Worth noting: The valet area has fans and cold bottled water waiting for guests coming and going, with 24-hour attendants who are friendly. I checked in after a few minutes; my room was waiting despite the early check-in, which is always appreciated.

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THE PENINSULA BEVERLY HILLS

PHOTOS: © THE PENINSULA BEVERLY HILLS, FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Reviewed by Francis X. Gallagher

Arrival/Check-In: I arrived at the property mid-afternoon; the driveway was busy but made orderly by the parking and front door staff. A bellhop took my luggage, and I proceeded to the front desk where I was greeted by a check-in clerk who told me I had a lovely Beverly Suite (room 302), a newly renovated room. Even though there were some reservation errors on our end, the cool and professional team at The Peninsula swiftly corrected them — they were there to correct the error and did so in a calm manner.

Renta body lotion and shampoos added to the experience. Of course, The Peninsula includes all the personal care items you may require like cotton swabs and shower caps, and the staff will fetch any other items.

In the bedroom, a king-sized bed included a personalized pillowcase with “FXG” embroidered on it for a special touch.

Everything has been renovated in keeping with what The Peninsula patrons expect and desire.

Guest Quarters: My comfortable room opened into a large living area with a sofa and coffee table. An extensive minibar displayed everything on a silver tray accompanied by a filled bucket of ice. A credenza sat on the opposite side of the room with a large, flat-screen TV on top, and at the far end, a perfectly equipped desk held a printer and fax. I used the printer to update a speech I was giving at our rooftop event the following day. Just behind was an outside patio with a table and chairs; even though it was mid-December, the weather allowed me to enjoy coffee and check my email there.

The hallway included a large closet and led to the bathroom to the right and a private bedroom on the left. The bathrooms at The Peninsula are adorned with pinkish marble and other natural surfaces that make a warm and inviting environment. The bathroom featured a large tub for premium soaking and an equally large shower stall. Double sinks and amenities such as Oscar de la

Services/Amenities: This is an area where The Peninsula excels over other properties in its competitive niche. I made sure I entertained at its signature restaurant, The Belvedere (recently completing a massive renovation including an extensive outside patio which you must experience); The Roof Garden; and The Club Bar. Not only was the cuisine superior, but also the staff take the venues to a much higher level. I found the staff at The Belvedere on top of their game as I entertained Global Traveler VIP staff at my departure breakfast. At the more casual Roof Garden, a large group of us enjoyed a luncheon by the pool.

Finally, The Club Bar has been a mainstay in Beverly Hills since the hotel opened. The staff remembered me from previous visits, and their sense of humor always makes this traveler feel at home. They always have time to speak with guests. One of my favorites is the cocktail waitress Jolly — she really looks out for me and my team!

TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ Our team and The Peninsula crew presented a wonderful rooftop event for our GT Tested Reader Survey awards, and it is a lovely nighttime venue. ◆ Linens to die for make a great night’s sleep, every night. ◆ Employees The Peninsula retains make this a special place, one of the best places to work in the Beverly Hills hotel scene.

THE PENINSULA BEVERLY HILLS 9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd.

Beverly Hills, CA 90212 tel 310 551 2888 beverlyhills.peninsula.com

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EDGEWATER HOTEL

Reviewed by Carly Allen

Guest Quarters: Every room on the property provides spectacular views of the bay or downtown Seattle, along with a gas fireplace. My Waterfront Premium room was one of the most charming rooms I’ve experienced in Seattle. The decent-sized room was decorated with dark brown, cream and brocade patterns with bold splashes of red throughout. Full-length windows looked out into the bay; the windows opened, offering the sound of waves while I slept. For warmth, the room was solely heated by the gas fire which is temperature controlled, adding to the coziness of the room. Two club chairs faced the fireplace with a bear-shaped ottoman to relax in, where I spent my time doing emails. For the extra-hard workers, a large executive desk provided plenty of space as well. A king-sized bed

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sported a stuffed bear wearing a red Edgewater sweater. There were no outlets conveniently around the bed for my phones and iPad, but I found a few I could use scattered around the room.

Sliding doors opened directly into the surprisingly modern and chic bathroom with bold red walls. The oversized claw-foot bathtub sat right in front of the space to offer views past the room and into Elliot Bay. A walk-in glass and slate shower had two showerheads and provided great water pressure; however, since it didn’t have a glass door, I tried to be extra-careful not to get water everywhere. The vanity included a raised bowl-shaped sink that gave it a sharp look.

Bright lamps surrounding a large mirror provided excellent lighting.

Services/Amenities: The Edgewater’s on-site restaurant, Six Seven, is the perfect spot for a quick breakfast, dinner or happy hour with live music, or a working lunch. Sitting right off the lobby, the space has floor-to-ceiling windows to give diners panoramic views of the bay and the Olympic Mountains.

Guests can access a 24/7 fitness center on property; but if it’s not raining too hard, I suggest taking a jog along Alaskan Way and the boardwalk.

The Edgewater is located a short walk up to Second Avenue, where the shopping begins, and not much farther to the famed Pike Place Market. It is also just minutes away in an Uber from the business district.

TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ A perfect blend of business amenities with Pacific Northwest charm ◆ Gas fireplaces in all guestrooms ensure a cozy retreat for reading, working or relaxing. ◆ Its location on the water gives the best views of Elliot Bay and the Olympic Mountains.

THE EDGEWATER HOTEL 2411 Alaskan Way Seattle, WA 98121 tel 206 728 7000 edgewaterhotel.com

PHOTOS: © EDGEWATER HOTEL

Arrival/Check-In: Anytime you travel to Seattle in the winter and spring months, you need to prepare for chilly winds and rain. I was ready for the weather during my recent trip to Seattle, arriving Sunday for a week of meetings all over the city. The Edgewater Hotel sits at Pier 67 on Alaskan Way, the only property on Elliot Bay. As the area is not overcrowded with buildings, it’s easy to find, with a driveway leading to friendly valets and a stone fireplace blazing to welcome guests. As you enter the lobby you get the full ambience of the Pacific Northwest. Overstuffed club chairs and decorative antler-inspired floor lamps encourage you to relax and enjoy the awe-inspiring view of the bay from its floor-to-ceiling windows. After I spent a few moments staring in awe, the front desk staff checked me in.

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KIMPTON ALEXIS HOTEL SEATTLE

Reviewed by Kaitlind Eydelloth

PHOTOS: © KIMPTON ALEXIS HOTEL SEATTLE

Arrival/Check-In: I arrived at the Kimpton Alexis in Seattle around noon and was greeted by a welcoming staff. I admired the art-filled entrance and even noticed a chalkboard sign that had the names of the dogs staying in the hotel written alongside treats and water bowls. I was hoping to drop off my bags before going sightseeing for the day, and the Alexis was incredibly accommodating by having my room ready for an early check-in.

Within minutes I dropped off my bags, changed clothes and was out the door to explore Seattle.

Guest Quarters: My room was located on the fourth floor of the building, just down the hall from the elevator. I walked into a beautiful and calmly decorated room, charming yet somewhat regal. I found a handwritten welcome note, bottle of red wine, chocolates and a Seattle porcelain coaster waiting on my desk — such a sweet touch that made me feel right at home.

As I explored the room, I appreciated the attention to detail including the Frette linens, fully stocked minibar with products from Bliss and Dollar Shave Club, and a sitting area across from the bed surrounded by a Rococo mirror and red and blue art.

There was even an Alexa from Amazon Echo Dot sitting on the desk for my use. I immediately knew my stay would be a pleasant and relaxing one.

The bathroom was spacious, clean and modern. I had plenty of counter space and loved the subtle but fragrant Atelier Bloem products stocked in my shower. I immediately wished I hadn’t packed my own toiletries. The bath was so inviting, I spent an hour relaxing there on each of the two nights of my stay.

Though my room didn’t boast an incredibly scenic view, I appreciated the brick building, quiet neighborhood and Seattle raindrops hitting the window.

Services/Amenities: I loved that the hotel provided coffee every morning on my way out to meetings, as well as a complimentary happy hour from 5–6 p.m. every night to finish a full work day. My second night there I had dinner at The Bookstore Bar and Café. I asked the chef to prepare his favorite dishes while I sipped on a glass of Prosecco. I enjoyed fresh oysters, beef tartare, steak frites and the seared salmon — my personal favorite. A delicious dinner wouldn’t be complete without dessert, so I chose the cardamom rose crème brulée. Though my full meal warranted a workout at the fitness center, I didn’t plan it into my schedule. I did take a peek and marveled at the rock climbing wall, Peloton bike, rings and monkey bars. It would have been a well-rounded workout, complete with a Seattle skyline mural to keep me distracted while getting my sweat on.

TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ The Kimpton Alexis lies within walking distance of great restaurants, shopping and sightseeing. Most of my meetings were a short ride away, making my home base super convenient for work and leisure. ◆ The Bookstore Bar and Café is an added bonus within the hotel, the perfect spot for a cozy and romantic dinner, business meeting or happy hour just steps from your room.

KIMPTON ALEXIS HOTEL SEATTLE 1007 First Ave. Seattle, WA 98104 tel 206 624 4844 alexishotel.com

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THE RITZ-CARLTON, CHICAGO

Reviewed by Richard Evans

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

Guest Quarters: I had a spacious Lakeside Suite with large picture windows and views of the lake. It really felt more like an apartment. The entrance hall with a big coat closet and a guest powder room led directly into a comfortable living room/dining area which included a wet bar and minibar, a large flat-screen TV, a large couch and two easy chairs, a coffee table, a dining table with seating for two, a desk with desktop outlets and a fax machine.

Since it was a corner room, it had views of the lake and lots of natural light. The bedroom had a king-sized bed with bedside tables, an easy chair and ottoman, a dresser and a large flat-screen TV. The marble bathroom had twin sinks, a bathtub and separate shower and a water closet. The amenities were by Asprey.

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Services/Amenities: The hotel was recently “revitalized” to the tune of $100 million over a two-year period, and it shows.

Directly off the lobby is Torali, the hotel’s restaurant, with a new take on Italian cuisine featuring a contemporary, chefdriven menu curated by Chef Baasim Zafar.

Directly across the lobby is Torali Bar, an attractive watering hole whether you meet a friend for a drink on your way to dinner or stop by for an after-dinner drink. Also on the lobby level, The Café allows you to grab a quick bite or an afternoon coffee. The high tops have outlets for recharging your phone or computer.

When the weather is warmer, Rooftop at Torali, on a terrace just off the lobby, looks to be a great place for a drink and a snack.

The hotel has a fully equipped gym, a lap pool and a spa offering a peaceful retreat where pampering is the priority.

The property also boasts the largest luxury ballroom in the city as well as several other event spaces.

◆ The artwork in the hotel is worth spending a few minutes admiring. I especially like The Wave, a Lasvit handblown glass installation that floats above the main lobby.

THE RITZ-CARLTON, CHICAGO Water Tower Place 160 E. Pearson St. Chicago, IL 60611 tel 312 266 1000 ritzcarlton.com

PHOTOS: ©THE RITZ-CARLTON, CHICAGO

Arrival/Check-In: My colleague and I arrived in Chicago on a cold day. Any thoughts of taking an early morning constitutional went out the window as soon as we stepped out of the cab. The Ritz-Carlton lobby is on the 12th floor of Water Tower Place.

Check-in was friendly and efficient.

◆ The location is just off the Magnificent Mile, a reasonably short cab ride from the Loop and a few blocks from the lake. In spite of the cold I managed to take a brisk walk along the lake for a bit of outdoor exercise.

one on one

MARC FERGUSON General Manager, Delta Sky Club Experience

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: About eight years ago, I went on a safari in Kenya that was amazing and inspiring.

One travel tip you cannot live without: Do your homework and learn about the destination. Leave flexibility in your schedule for unexpected opportunities.

Best advice for business travelers: Stay hydrated and pack light.

Name: Marc Ferguson Title: General manager, Delta Sky Club Experience Company, city: Delta Air Lines; Atlanta, Ga. Number of employees: More than 80,000 Recent project: Launch of our third Asanda Spa Lounge, in our Delta Sky Club at ATL First job: Retail manager at Federated Department Stores (Rich’s, now Macy’s) Little-known fact about you: I swam in the U.S. Olympic Trial in 1988 in Austin, Texas.

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YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? Customization is revolutionizing the travel industry, especially in the lounge space. We enable guests to craft their own experience — they can socialize, be productive or relax, whatever they prefer. We’ve created different areas and experiences in the Club that allow them to do so.

Best career advice you’ve received: I believe I heard it at my first job: Love what you do and it’s never a job.

That’s followed me through every

ABOUT YOUR BRAND What has recently been announced with Delta Sky Club? What can travelers expect from the new Delta Sky Clubs coming in 2019?

We recently launched our third Asanda Spa Lounge, in our Club in ATL’s Terminal E. Guests appreciate this amenity, also offered at JFK and SEA. Along with light massages and facials, guests can purchase products with a credit card or Sky Miles. One of the more unique spa offerings, developed in partnership with Dr. Deepak Chopra, is a meditation experience designed for travelers.

Earlier this year, we launched a partnership with renowned French pastry chef Pierre Hermé. Club goers at JFK can enjoy his famous macarons and chocolates — so far, it’s a hit.

In 2019 we will open Delta Sky Clubs in Austin and Phoenix, incorporating local food and art into the spaces.

Tell our readers about the food and beverage offerings available at Delta Sky Clubs. We’ve moved our food and beverage approach to focus on fresh, local and healthy. Our new SkyBowl is a fresh, seasonally rotated build-a-bowl experience available in 20 Clubs. Guests can choose the ingredients they’d like for their meals and make it as healthy or as indulgent as they’d like. All the Clubs focus on both seasonal food items and flavors from around the world. To provide another example, in Seattle we worked with local chef Ethan Stowell to craft a menu and offerings unique and specific to the city.

CLEAR members with a Delta Sky Club membership can use their fingerprints to enter some clubs now. Tell us about this and other new technology coming to the Clubs. At Reagan National Airport in Washington, D.C., and at HartsfieldJackson Atlanta International Airport, those enrolled in the CLEAR program can use biometric check-in, so they can use their fingerprints to enter the Club and don’t have to look around for that boarding pass. This technology also enables ambassadors to better engage with guests and help with more complex needs. At the same time, it satisfies those looking for a seamless check-in experience.

We also recently rolled out handheld devices so ambassadors can greet and check in guests at the door.

We’re continuously working to use technology to enhance the customer experience and give our ambassadors more tools.

PHOTO: © MARC FERGUSON

career choice I’ve made.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? I always tell those starting at Delta Air Lines to explore as many departments as they can. That variety of experience gives them a unique perspective when it comes to understanding the company, allowing them greater impact on the customer experience.

CONNECTING YOU TO THE WORLD

Airlines at Chicago’s airports offer more than 250 nonstop destinations worldwide.

CHICAGO VISIT www.flychicago.com

@fly2ohare @fly2midway

@flyohare @flymidway

/fly2ohare /fly2midway

/flychicago

one on one

ASHLEY GOCHNAUER personally. Our work is highly personal because we need to act from the heart and truly empathize with strangers. When perfection is the goal, it can be disheartening as challenges arise. So be resilient, raise expectations and learn important lessons along the way.

guests hang up towels, we take that as a signal they want to go green.

We recycle throughout the property and always look for ways to reduce paper and plastic. Our building was a new construction with stateof-the-art features that support environmental efficiencies.

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: I was fortunate to go on a safari through Kenya as a teenager, an amazing experience that always stuck with me.

As one of Hollywood’s newest properties, how did you incorporate the hotel’s location into its design and theme?

Our amazing location perfectly positions us between Hollywood Boulevard and the Hills, allowing guests to explore Hollywood’s iconic landmarks on foot while also providing easy access to Griffith Park and countless hiking trails.

Our design inspiration comes from our proximity to the Hills and the laidback Southern California lifestyle that represents. Our social spaces feel just as inviting and comfortable as someone’s living room in an amazing mid-century home in the Hills. Our design story goes hand in hand with our service style, creating an all-encompassing experience.

One travel tip you cannot live without: Jet lag does a number on me when I travel across time zones.

I soldier through the first day to acclimate to local time as quickly as possible. Also, as my mother taught me, picking a color scheme for a trip lets you mix and match pieces and vary your outfits daily without over-packing.

Name: Ashley Gochnauer Title: General manager Company, city: Kimpton Everly Hotel Hollywood; Los Angeles, Calif.

Number of employees: About 125 First job: My first hotel job was with W Hotels as a guest services agent.

Little-known fact about you: I am a coffee enthusiast, and it is a true hobby. I love exploring L.A.’s coffee scene, which has no shortage of great options.

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? I think the industry is moving toward automation, limiting the amount of human interac-

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tions during a hotel stay. However, Kimpton is unique, as we focus on reading the guest and adjust our service style based on verbal and nonverbal cues. Some guests want their space, and others crave human interaction while on the road.

We try to provide all our guests with a highly customized stay, which they can’t get during a fully automated arrival experience.

Best career advice you’ve received: Hospitality is an art form, so take pride in it and strive for excellence, only achieved through preparation and dedication to the craft.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Take it personally, but also don’t take it

Best advice for business travelers: Being a business traveler can be grueling, but it is a missed opportunity if you only see the inside of your room. Hotels place such a focus on food and beverage, design and service, it’s a shame to miss out completely. Even if it’s just one drink in the bar before going to bed or a great cappuccino to kick-start your day, it makes business travelers feel they carved out some time to enjoy the hotel, just for themselves.

ABOUT YOUR BRAND Tell us about both Kimpton Everly and the brand’s eco-friendly initiatives.

We train our housekeeping team to read guests’ cues regarding in-room towels and linens. We absolutely replace whatever is needed, but if

Which of the property’s amenities garner the most buzz, and what can premium travelers expect from a stay?

I consider Ever Bar the social center of the hotel, where guests are instinctively drawn to gather. The vibe effortlessly transitions from day to night, making it the perfect spot to work on your laptop during the day and meet friends or colleagues for a drink in the evening. The cocktail menu is expertly curated and crafted by our top-notch bar team.

It is an experience that shouldn’t be missed!

PHOTO: © THE KIMPTON EVERLY

General Manager, Kimpton Everly Hotel Hollywood

technology

POWER BOOST Improve daily life with energy-efficient, ergonomic devices.

BY JACK GUY

PHILIPS SMARTSLEEP Sleep technology looks set to be a huge growth area this year, and Philips has been quick to develop devices such as SmartSleep.

The device looks like a soft headband and contains sensors that detect when you’re in a deep sleep. In order to keep you in this resting state, SmartSleep plays patterns of white noise through built-in speakers. It might sound strange, but research shows it helps you feel more rested. $399.99. philips.com

GTECH EBIKE SPORTS Want to beat the traffic but live too far from the office for an ordinary bike?

Perhaps an electric bike like the GTech Ebike Sports is the solution. With a range of 30 miles and an assisted top speed of 15 mph, you can get to work and back without breaking a sweat. The GTech offers a great value, and it even looks like a standard bike, so your fellow cyclists might be surprised by the ease with which you power away from them. $1,375. gtech.co.uk

ACER SWIFT 7 ULTRABOOK Business travelers demand both performance and portability, and this Acer laptop doesn’t disappoint. The Swift 7 Ultrabook is the thinnest in the world at just 0.39 inches, and it ships with 4G-LTE connectivity so you can get online wherever you go. Weighing in at just 2.6 pounds, you’ll barely notice you’re carrying a laptop at all. From $1,699. acer.com

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PHOTOS: © PHILLIPS, © MARANTZ, © GTECH, © ACER

MARANTZ TT-15S1 TURNTABLE The popularity of vinyl continues to surge among music fans, and there has never been a better time to get the most out of your existing collection or start a new one. Although this turntable might seem fairly expensive at first glance, it actually offers great value, given the quality of its components. With a Clearaudio Virtuoso cartridge and great design elements, Marantz brings a real winner to market. $1,499. marantz.com

wine & spirits

PERSONAL TASTE

are There than more e 0 win 10,00 ies variet grape . world in the

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OFTEN, AFTER I’VE PRESENTED a wine tasting to people relatively new to wine, they are eager to ask questions: “How do I know I’ll like a wine?” “What’s an interesting wine?” “What’s a wine that tastes good and won’t cost too much?” “What would you drink with spaghetti?

With salad?” And always, “What’s a good wine?”

Spaghetti and other Italian dishes are easy. Choose an Italian wine, especially one you’ve never had before.

An excellent choice is Castello di Albola Chianti Classico Riserva ($28), particularly the 2013 vintage, currently on the market. It is Sangiovese-based, well-balanced, velvety and elegant. As for salad, since salad dressing is usually made with vinegar and vinegar is the enemy of wine, I suggest you never, ever drink wine with salad.

As for an interesting wine, try one from a country you may not realize makes wine. Lebanon, for instance.

And a fine Lebanese choice is Château Kefraya — whose fascinating red wine ($20) blends Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah — dark ruby in color, round and inviting with a hint of cherries in the aroma.

Another interesting choice is a wine made of grapes associated with one region — Pinot Noir in cool Burgundy, for instance — which is made in a different part of the world. For example, try a Pinot Noir made in California’s Sonoma County. The large Sonoma region includes areas that differ widely in climate. Its Russian River Valley, for one, tends to be cooler and, while not as cool as Burgundy’s vineyards, it is closer to what Pinot Noir likes than are many other areas in the world trying to imitate Burgundy. One of the finest makers of California Pinot Noir is Patz & Hall, a Sonoma Countybased winery. Its wide array of Pinot Noir ranges across those from Sonoma County generally to single-vineyard bottlings within the county ($43–90), all of which I’ve found offer complexity, elegance, balance and pure delight.

And, finally, the question of what’s a good wine. Put simply, wine is about pleasure. If you are drinking a wine and enjoying that wine, no matter what the wine, it is indeed a good wine.

PHOTO: © LOGNETIC | DREAMSTIME.COM

Find a good wine that’s right for you. BY EUNICE FRIED

TRAVEL IN STYLE.

Experience all the advantages of our Business Class.

tours

RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL Ecotourists leave a small footprint while improving local communities.

TRAVEL HAS ALWAYS HAD A WAY of connecting people to the land, literally stepping us out of our comfort zones and onto an entirely new terrain with different sights, sounds and adventures. Exploring makes the world seem both bigger and smaller at the same time, and now, with more ecotourism options than ever, we can expand our horizons without widening our footprint.

Ecotourism is a term coined back in 1990 by what has today become known as The International Ecotourism Society, a nonprofit organization that defines ecotourism as “responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the wellbeing of local people.” Ecotours today range from off-the-grid luxury retreats with bespoke itineraries to adventurous daytrips designed with sustainability in mind.

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures operated out of its Alberta home outside of Banff National Park in Canada for more than 40 years, maintaining a focus on sustainable tours since its inception. Today it continues to specialize in self-propelled mountain experiences like ice climbing, trekking and mountaineering. The eco-focused company is a member of Leave No Trace, and its deep respect for nature and the environment is seen in its partnerships with local nonprofits working to create safe climbing environments with projects like implementing natural erosion protection measures at the base of cliffs.

Many tour operators, like Kind Traveler, adopt a Give + Get platform where simply booking a vacation through that company unlocks an exclusive rate while also donating a portion of profits to a local charity or community close to the destination.

Along with offering a full range of amazing ecotours that support wildlife conservation efforts, Responsible Travel offers a Trip for a Trip program that allows travelers to opt in when booking a vacation so the team at Responsible Travel can in turn organize a daytrip for a disadvantaged youth.

The Australian travel operator Intrepid Travel has long been a leader in offering ecotours around the world, operating as a carbon-neutral business since 2010. Today the business operates 27 carbon-neutral offices around the world and offers more than 1,400

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BY KRISTY ALPERT

HIGH POINTS:

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures tours (top) and Intrepid Travel tour in Peru PHOTOS: © YAMNUSKA MOUNTAIN ADVENTURES, © INTREPID TRAVEL

carbon-offset trips made possible by the company’s investment in renewable energy projects like reforestation programs in Kenya and Australia, wind turbine projects in Turkey and the United States and water filter initiatives in Cambodia.

In 2002 Intrepid Travel also began giving back to the communities it serves and today supports more than 50 local grassroots projects ranging from improving sustainable development to protecting the rights of children and women in impoverished areas and working to improve education and health care.

e impl ree s n h t e e s ht t the he o lig Adop hacks t hile on t l w e t v n a i tr pr foot your : road king y ta b r e t d s an r hotel. e wa Sav r shower ou y t e a t s shor owel ing t reus on save oosting o t t b h hile k lig Pac e fees w ncy. g a cie bagg uel effi f e plan s to duct o r p l ns in loca tisa Buy t the ar . on or supp estinati d r you

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January 2018

May 2011

Globility

THE SOURCE FOR LUxURY BUSINESS TRAVELERS

ABU DHABI

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND

GT App Read GT on your iPhone and iPad. The GT app makes it easy to peruse the current issue, search the archives, bookmark favorites and more.

HANGZHOU

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE

TEL AVIV

A SENSE OF ADVENTURE FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Fulfill your dreams of exploring the world with one-of-a-kind expeditions. p. 46

2011 | GLOBAL TRAVELER | 35

9–5 | CAPE TOWN

GT Members Section passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet.

Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle.

Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25).

The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million.

Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center.

Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background.

Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300.

While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

he new GT app is JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world.

You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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Our weekly slideshow brings stunning photos and information on a range of topics with a current worldwide focus to subscribers every Saturday.

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This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE

Global Events

GT on the Road

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ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE AND ICE

Captivating Cape Town

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spas

MALAMA KA HONUA Protecting land and sea complements the relaxation ritual at Four Seasons Hualālai Spa. BY KRISTY ALPERT

cts rodu th p d a b s an The oom r e its in th rom f e used t, com ojec spa i Pr l i w Ka ively clus x e ted from crea sort e r and the ade for m y ll ils, loca an o ’i i a w land n Ha and grow s r ga cals s, su tani o b salt sea a ka and alam ‘m ue hion in tr ’ fas a g u n i n ct ho rote ‘p ’ g n n ni ea . mea d oc n a land the

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I WAS STILL GETTING RE-ACCUSTOMED TO WALKING on solid ground as I took my first step into the refreshingly cool waters of the Waiea (“Water of Life”) stream running through the open-air gardens at the Hualālai Spa, the multitextured pebbles massaging my feet with each step.

I spent the last hour scaling Four Seasons Resort Hualālai’s rock-climbing wall, dressed in yoga gear while dreaming of gravity as my private instructor guided me through a choreographed series of yoga poses and rockclimbing techniques. It is the resort’s latest fitness experience called Beyond Bouldering, aka Wall Climbing Yoga, and the sensory path through the lush gardens now acted as a grounding experience for me in more ways than one. I exchanged my spandex for reusable rubber slippers and an airy yukata robe as I began my journey through the ecofriendly spa, and I felt the cool air hit my skin as I made my way indoors to the Apothecary and the air slipped gently through the weave of the natural fibers.

The Apothecary acts as Four Seasons Hualālai’s homage to the kupuna (Hawai’ian elders), trained in the old Hawai’ian ways of using local plants and materials to make medicines and treatments. It serves as the central point for housing all the ingredients used in creating the spa’s

APRIL 2018

signature body wraps and scrubs. I was greeted with an herbal tea and a warm smile as I approached the wooden apothecary table and met my spa concierge, who would help me choose from the more than 40 ingredients (20 are local and all are made from 100 percent natural plant and mineral resources) displayed in varying sizes and shapes of bell jars and containers.

Guests are encouraged to customize their own mix of ingredients to complement their spa therapies (massages, scrubs, wraps), and the list features Hawai’ian ingredients like local pa’akai (salt) from the island of Molokai, organic turbinado sugar from Maui and spirulina from Kona.

Other ingredients could just as easily be found on one of the menus at the resort’s three restaurants or two lounges, with jars of crushed macadamia nuts and lemon salts for exfoliation treatments; containers filled with organic coconut milk and local honey for adding hydration to jet-lagged skin; and even large glass jars filled with food-grade mud, clay and organic hibiscus buds that add local elements to the treatments.

I chose the Hulali Apothecary Treatment (80 minutes), a body scrub fittingly named after the Hawai’ian word for “sparkle” due to the way the skin shines after this

customized polishing treatment. I selected my native oils, herbs and flowers to create a heavenly scented scrub that consisted of no less than 11 different elements, and my therapist blended the ingredients together before my eyes before whisking me off to a private treatment room where I would begin my transformation toward iridescence.

The Apothecary treatments account for only a portion of the spa’s eco-friendly offerings, including the Apothecary Mud & Clay Mosaic Treatment (80 minutes), where therapists use volcanic mud and deep-sea clay to create a wrap that tones and stimulates the skin. The Wawali Apothecary Treatment (80 minutes) uses indigenous ingredients to create a body mask and wrap that cocoons the body while the therapist performs a face, neck and scalp massage.

The Linohau Apothecary Treatment (120 minutes) blends the Hulali scrub and the Wawali mask and wrap into one decadent experience.

The spa itself encompasses 28,000 square feet in which beautifully curated eco-design elements (hand-selected by celebrated designers Babey Moulton Jue & Booth) guide guests into the realm of relaxation. All of the spa’s massages and body treatments can be performed either indoors or out, where the latter is performed in one of the spa’s

thatch-roofed privacy hales that create an exotic and organic space for unwinding in nature.

Local and natural ingredients play a huge role in the spa’s treatments, including its two signature treatments: the Polynesian Niu Scrub with fresh, local coconut and the Hualālai Island Stone Massage using hot and cold stones strategically placed below and above the body to open the body’s energy centers and promote circulation.

The spa’s extensive menu includes more than 15 massage therapies (including the lomi-lomi massage using traditional Hawai’ian techniques), more than eight body treatments, a handful of water cures (a multistep treatment that includes skin brushing, scalp and foot massages and an herb-infused bath) and a series of more than 15 skin care rituals and facial enhancements.

The spa also employs therapists who specialize in acupuncture, yoga therapy and physical therapy to offer customized treatments for guests, along with a full-service salon for hair, nails and makeup application. Indoor and outdoor showers make the experience a seamless encounter with nature where even the products inside the men’s and women’s lounge areas are 100 percent natural, made by L’Oeil du Vert for the hotel’s exclusive Kāwili Project.

NATURAL SPIRIT: (Left to right) Treatment room and Water of Life stream PHOTOS: © FOUR SEASONS HUALĀLAI SPA

Four Seasons Hualālai Spa 72-100 Ka’upulehu Drive Kailua-Kona, HI 96740 tel 808 325 8440 hualalairesort.com

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wealth

IMPACT OF TAX REFORM

ON DEC. 22, 2017, the tax world changed as the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act became law. It affects all of us, and below is a little insight into some of the changes that will have the most impact. These are not all of the changes, nor are they discussed in depth but merely highlighted so they are in your mind when tax planning. Next month, this column will touch on businesses, pass-through entities and some international tax changes.

From an individual tax perspective, the lowest tax rate remained at 10 percent while the highest tax rate was reduced from 39.6 percent to 37 percent. In between, the rates are lower in 2018 than 2017, and the income range in each bracket is larger, meaning you will not jump into higher brackets as quickly in 2018 as you did in 2017.

However, the government giveth and the government taketh away. The following items are no longer available: personal exemptions (standard deductions increased); state and local income and property tax deductions in excess of $10,000 annually; tax preparation fees; investment advisory fees; employee business expenses; personal casualty losses; and the large and commonly utilized entertainment expense (except meals, which are 50 percent deductible).

Deductibility of interest expense incurred for personal real

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estate mortgages has also changed.

Interest expense incurred post-Dec. 15, 2017, is limited to a principal mortgage amount of $750,000.

Refinances post-Dec. 15, 2017, are grandfathered at $1 million only up to the debt level at the date of refinance, which means you are not able to deduct interest expense if you are cashing out equity. Additionally, interest expense on a home equity line of credit is only going to be deductible to the extent proceeds were used to acquire, construct or substantially renovate property.

Deductibility of medical expenses also changed; moving forward, they are deductible to the extent they exceed 7.5 percent of adjusted gross income, down from 10 percent in 2017. The limit on contributions to qualified charitable organizations increased from 50 percent of AGI to 60 percent of AGI. The standard deduction for a married couple is now $24,000. Child credits also increased.

Stock option income received from grants of privately held companies can now be deferred for five years.

A few other changes that may not impact the majority but will have a large impact on some: Business losses are now limited to $500,000 per year, and any excess will be carried forward as net operating losses. Net operating losses cannot be carried back any longer but can be carried forward indefinitely.

The use of these losses is limited to 80 percent of taxable income for post-2017 losses.

Please keep in mind the above refers to federal taxes only.

State and local taxes vary widely, and states are more aggressively clawing for tax dollars. As many of the readers of this publication are businesspeople who travel not only the country but the world, it is important to understand the nexus rules of the areas where you do business so you are compliant with your tax filings. Receiving a delinquent tax notice from a state where you did not even know you had to file a tax return will make your heart drop. Be proactive and speak to your tax professional — it will be one of the best investments you ever make.

PHOTO: Š ENTERLINEDESIGN | DREAMSTIME.COM

How will the new tax code affect you and your business?

golf

SEA TO SEA Play along the Caribbean and the Atlantic at Royal St. Kitts Golf Club. BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

OCEAN VIEW: Hole 15

PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

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AFTER CRUISING FOR SEVEN DAYS from New York on board Norwegian Gem, we arrived at the lovely island of St. Kitts. We docked and made our way to the Marriott St. Kitts, ferried by our friendly cab driver, Mikey Marlusmd. Mikey dropped us off and we arranged a pick-up time before heading to the pro shop. “Don’t worry,” he said. “I will be here.” Although a large group of cruisers stood in line to check in, we were out the door first because we brought our own clubs, a last-minute decision. The starter saw us fumbling with our shoes and gear and suggested we tee off on Hole 13 — a brilliant move, as we were able to play holes 13–18 and then regroup on holes 10–12 to complete the back nine first and in record time.

Opened in 1976, the course underwent a massive renovation in 2002 and reopened Nov. 8, 2004. Incorporating 125 irrigated acres, Royal St. Kitts is the only course boasting play along both the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. Canadian architect

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Thomas McBroom’s redesign added water hazards on 12 holes, 83 bunkers and hundreds of coconut palm trees along the Atlantic. He used the natural terrain to enhance the course where egrets, lizards and green-tailed monkeys live. We saw these shy little creatures at a distance as we played. Paul Gosselin joined me for the day of golf.

We had a fun time even though the day turned quite hot.

HOLE 13 | 515 yards, par 5

As this was our starter hole, we did not want to be the slowpokes, so we immediately teed up and shot away. My ball landed left of the right fairway bunker while Paul’s sailed beyond the same bunker and a little to the right. We were concerned, as marsh and water come into play; sadly, Paul’s drive exceeded the margin of safety. The next shot down the flat fairway requires accuracy, as the dry ground can send a ball tumbling into the rough, impossible to find. I had a decent hit, got on the green in four and two-putted for a bogey.

HOLE 15 | 161 yards, par 3

Don’t let the distance fool you. This hole has a slight Pebble Beach feel, as wind from the ocean may affect your tee shot.

The view from the tee’s high vantage point is breathtaking, with the Atlantic behind the green and the neighboring island beyond. It is also the opening to a string of remarkably beautiful holes. Eight bunkers guard this green whose undulating surface makes putting difficult. I was pleased to feather an iron to about 13 feet of the pin; Paul landed slightly off and chipped up for a bogey. I missed my long birdie putt for the first of few pars during our round.

HOLE 16 | 383 yards, par 4

You have made it to the Atlantic Ocean, which runs along the left side, spraying fog across and wetting the fairway. It was magical, as were our two near-perfect drives. Mine skirted a little over the edge of the beach as it powered back to the left side of the fairway. Paul’s bomb passed mine and landed 80 yards farther but dead center. Driving the ball accurately is key; stay right center of the fairway and away from the ocean. The second shot appears simple, but the Atlantic on the left is always ready to swallow errant shots. I overshot the green, costing me par, as Paul nailed his shot to the green for par.

HOLE 17 | 404 yards, par 4

Designed after the 18th at Pebble Beach, more waves crashing from the Atlantic greet you on 17. The Atlantic runs the entire length of the left side, and a small pond sits on the right.

Take a clean shot right center; keep in mind the approach returns back to the Atlantic like a mini peninsula.

I had significant issues carding a double bogey while Paul played perfectly, securing another par. A truly beautiful hole.

HOLE 11 | 591 yards, par 5

As we jumped around to finish the back nine, a kindly foursome let us cut in front. We made erratic shots from the tee, not the display you want as you try to play fast and impress people. Eleven is a long hole from the tips, the longest par 5 at Royal St. Kitts. From the tee’s high vantage you get a glimpse of the Atlantic Ocean. A beautiful salt marsh lies right of the tee box but does not come into play. Egrets nested near the pond the day we played. The dogleg left’s bunkers stand ready to grab your ball on the left, and a water hazard runs the entire right. Paul scrambled for par as I carded a disappointing bogey.

HOLE 2 | 451 yards, par 4

This is a hole you want to play a few times to figure out the best plan of attack. Set up as a dogleg right, it looks as if you can easily cut the corner. We took a few fun drives to see how

far we could cut the corner and failed miserably, landing in the backyards of local Kittitians where the hole bends.

Unless you have a super drive, position yourself farther to the left than expected. My drive ended up just inside the right wall but playable; I chipped back into play from around some growth. Paul’s was a little farther up on the right but in the clear. The many bunkers protecting the green add difficulty.

HOLE 9 | 192 yards, par 3

This hole is challenging, as it faces directly into the prevailing winds. Players might consider a fairway wood to compensate for the wind and length, as an iron often leaves you short of the green, surrounded by bunkers on both left and right.

Those underestimating the distance can recover with an easy chip to the green. The wind was dead and the day was hot as we finished our round. Tucking in two pars, we headed into the clubhouse for a much-needed drink and Royal St. Kitts’ world-famous tuna salad. Mikey was ready and took us back to the Norwegian Gem on time for our departure.

ON THE GREEN:

Paul chipping on Hole 15 PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Royal St. Kitts Golf Club 858 Zenway Blvd.

Basseterre, St. Kitts & Nevis West Indies tel 869 466 2700 royalstkittsgolfclub.com

APRIL 2018

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chefs

DOWN TO EARTH

BY KIMBERLY KROL

AN ECLECTIC LIFE STORY translates to an eclectic cooking style. Just ask Jean-Paul Lourdes, head chef of Gowings Bar & Grill at QT Sydney. Lourdes was born in New Zealand to a Madagascan mother and a Spanish father but spent most of his childhood throughout Asia. There, in the spice-filled markets and among the hawker stalls, he discovered his love for all things culinary.

He started his career, however, as a perfume scientist before making the move to become a chef. He worked around the world — from France, London and Japan to New York — under a number of lauded chefs including Alain Ducasse and Joel Robuchon at multiple celebrated restaurants such as The Nomad, Les Maisons de Bricourt and Restaurant Kikunoi.

Today his fashion-forward yet down-to-earth approach to food can be found in Sydney, Australia. At Gowings Bar & Grill, the European brasserie serves fresh ingredients prepared in wood-fired rotisseries and ovens.

WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR CULINARY CONCEPTS? Career-wise, New York — the majority of the culinary trends and concepts successful in the world were created there, and the globe draws on the city for culinary inspiration. It is the breeding ground of many techniques you see in dishes around the world. New York is so transient, which means more opportunities to try new things and be successful doing so. The city is a hub of food, people love to eat there, and there’s so much creativity.

Personally, Hong Kong is one of my all-time favorite cities. I am enamored by the culture, and the food is an obvious reflection of that. I find the Hong Kong culinary scene inspiring; the food is minimalist but well-executed, and there’s always a story behind it. I draw on that at Gowings Bar & Grill; everything we produce has a story behind it.

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WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? I worked with Pierre Gagnaire for five years, and he certainly became a bit of a culinary hero. His ability to combine so many flavors and different techniques and make it successful is inspirational.

The way he layers food and introduces a variety of elements into a dish is something I aspire to do.

We certainly do it, but perhaps a bit less obviously; a lot of the flavors and techniques are a lot subtler. Take for instance the mulloway dish; it can be complex and it can be subtle, depending on how you want to eat it.

WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE? It’s hard to pinpoint one person; I don’t think any one thing in life deserves to take credit for everything, rather it’s an accumulation of things we encounter along the way. I think, perhaps, my cooking style is inspired on a more subconscious level. I am lucky I have worked with a lot of highprofile chefs who cemented the fundamentals

for me, but I would say travel and exploring other cultures and cuisines influences my style.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? Los Angeles — I find it an exciting city with loads of amazing restaurants. I love Animal and Felix, but my absolute go-to is Eggslut in Downtown, run by Filipino chef Alvin Calain. There are loads of Filipino chefs in L.A. doing great things. At Eggslut, the concept is simple but so effective. It’s a cool venue and there’s always a line. Any time I land in L.A., I go straight there for a feed.

WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? I think we will continue to see the rise of the neighborhood-style restaurant, already huge in New York and Sydney. We see more high-profile places take that “homey” approach — a place people go a couple of times a week that feels familiar and has a subtle, simple approach.

I think the industry in general is changing, moving away from the high-end spectrum. Fine dining has been on its way out for quite some time, and only a handful of restaurants can cook at that caliber, just based on resources. We will continue to see the industry’s approach to cooking food less fussy and more understated.

GOWINGS BAR & GRILL QT Sydney 49 Market St. Sydney, NSW 2000, Australia tel 61 2 8262 0062 qthotelsandresorts.com

PHOTOS: © QT SYDNEY

Chef Jean-Paul Lourdes brings a world of culinary experience to QT Sydney.

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cruising

SEA CHANGE Green is the new blue for ocean cruises. BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

SEAGOING EFFICIENCY: Celebrity Cruises solar panels (left), and Celebrity Solstice (right) PHOTOS: © CELEBRITY CRUISES

osta ival, C Carn arge ther l o d n a s are e line cruis rting conve l to diese from tural ed na i f e u liq rld’s he wo gas, t sil st fos cleane fuel.

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AS CRUISE SHIPS BECOME LARGER, they also become greener. This movement to make cruising eco-friendly comes at a time when cruise ships draw fire for their negative effects on the environment. A typical cruise ship with 3,000 passengers aboard puts out 1 million gallons of gray water; 210,000 gallons of sewage; 25,000 gallons of oily bilge water; and 50 tons of garbage and solid waste on a 10-day voyage. By one estimate, a medium-sized ship emits the same volume of air pollutants as 5 million cars going the same distance. Air quality on deck can reach the same unhealthful level as that measured on the streets of the world’s most polluted cities.

No wonder cruise ships are making strides to become greener, even though they make up less than 1 percent of the world’s 50,000 commercial maritime vessels. A new generation of passenger ships (an estimated 87 new cruise vessels come on line by 2026) will add the latest in eco-technology, and current fleets, from engine room to stateroom, are becoming far less polluting than ever before.

Holland America Line is among the leaders in securing a green card for cruising. An environmental officer sails aboard every vessel, and the staff is eco-educated. Two systems are in place to treat bilge water; towels are reused; bathrooms are equipped with low-flow faucets and showerheads; cleaning supplies are nontoxic; cabin windows are tinted to curb the use of air-conditioning; silicon paint on the hulls reduces drag;

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and, where provided, ships plug into less-polluting power stations when in port. Holland America also installed special computer programs to help prevent collisions with whales.

Likewise, Celebrity Cruises crushes glass; recycles aluminum and tin; and on the 2,852-passenger Solstice, 216 solar panels and 7,000 LED lights cut energy demands in half. Disney Cruise Line recycles 280 tons of water from its air-conditioning system to do laundry and swab the decks.

Royal Caribbean Cruises eliminated disposable utensils, excess packaging and plastic water bottles. Lindblad Expeditions, a leader in small ship eco-touring, supplies its dining rooms with locally sourced, sustainably harvested seafood. Carnival Cruise Line installed recycling bins and sends its replaced furniture, appliances and linens to charities rather than landfills. And for its cruises in Africa on the Zambezi Queen, AmaWaterways relies on battery power at night, with hot water provided by a solar heating system.

The future looks even greener. Eco-minded passengers who drive hybrid vehicles on land will soon be able to vacation at sea on hybrid cruise ships. Hurtigruten’s newest vessel, the 530-passenger Roald Amundsen, will be the first of its kind powered by fully electric hybrid technology, promising periods of completely emission-free sailing. And Ponant promised to put the world’s first electric hybrid-powered icebreaker cruise ship into operation in 2021.

Beyond Asia. To the Future. F lying with You. ASIANA AIRLINES

Reservations • 1-800-2ASIANA • us.flyasiana.com

feature

Watch Your Step WITHOUT SWIFT, EXPANSIVE CHANGES to the way humans currently tread on planet Earth, we will be dealing with the effects of climate change on a grand scale. Greenhouse gases — naturally occurring but increasing significantly due to human activity — from the burning of fossil fuels contribute to a warming climate that is wreaking havoc worldwide.

Driving a car, heating your home and turning on the lights can all increase your carbon footprint, which has direct ties to climate change.

There are a slew of ways to reduce your carbon output, both at home and while traveling. Overall, reducing the energy you use can make a big difference, and steps like decreasing the amount of meat you eat, changing the type of light bulbs you use and choosing public transportation over driving a personal vehicle can all help lower your impact.

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PHOTO: © ALEXMAX | DREAMSTIME.COM

Be mindful of your environmental impact at home and on the road. BY MEGAN HILL

PHOTOS: © SANDRA CUNNINGHAM | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MARIUSZ BLACH | DREAMSTIME.COM, © PHOTKA | DREAMSTIME.COM

Let’s start with some home remedies. First, switch your light bulbs to LEDs, up to 80 percent more efficient than incandescent bulbs. You’ll reap the benefit of a lower electricity bill, and the bulbs last longer. Compact fluorescent lights, or CFLs, the spiral-shaped bulbs, have a similarly positive effect but are falling out of favor with consumers and becoming harder to find compared to LEDs. The next time you buy a new appliance, whether it’s a refrigerator, washing machine, hot water heater or microwave, opt for new models that come with an Energy Star rating, awarded to products that prioritize energy efficiency.

Get smart with your thermostats. Consider lowering them by a degree or two in cold months and raising them slightly in warm months to cut back on energy use. Shut them off when you leave the house. Smart home devices, including

thermostats, can help you monitor electricity usage via smartphone and help automate this process.

Wash your clothes in cold water, and line-dry them — both considerably lower your energy use.

Recycle and compost, whether through municipal programs or otherwise. The Environmental Protection Agency reports keeping products like glass, aluminum, plastic and paper out of the landfill can keep 582 pounds of carbon dioxide out of the atmosphere a year, equivalent to driving 600 fewer miles per year.

Installing solar panels at your home will not only lower your energy bills but, depending on where you live, trade nonrenewable energy for renewables. You may even be able to make some money by selling your excess electricity back to your local power company.

When you’re shopping for your next vehicle,

rican’s e Ame g om a r e v me fr o c s The a n ssio d n emi s: foo carbo ource s g n i llow heatthe fo , home ) t n e ent), erc 7 perc 1 (14 p ( g n li t), d coo ercen p 8 2 ing an tion ( porta hases trans s purc u o ome e n lla ther h o d misce n t) a t). ercen percen (26 p 5 1 ( uses energy

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consider buying a hybrid, electric or fuel-efficient car. Again, depending on where you live and what energy sources your grid taps into, you may be able to significantly lower your carbon footprint by forgoing your use of gas or lowering the amount you need to run your car. You can also maximize your fuel efficiency by keeping your tires properly inflated; ditching the extra stuff you keep in your trunk or backseat; and trading driving for walking, biking, carpooling and using public transit.

At the grocery store, buy less meat and opt for local, sustainably grown items wherever you can. Raising meat is significantly more carbon-intensive than growing vegetables; some estimates show eating a pound of beef holds the same carbon intensity as burning a gallon of gasoline. Buying local goods can also help lower your carbon footprint as they don’t have to be transported as far to the store from where they are grown or harvested. Ditch packaged drinks for tap water, buy from the bulk section to reduce packaging, and bring your

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own reusable shopping bags rather than take the store’s plastic and paper.

Get an energy audit. Find a local company to assess your home, finding areas where you can make efficiency improvements. Chances are you’ll decrease your carbon footprint while also saving money on energy costs.

Traveling, particularly if you’re clocking in a long distance via airplane — and even more so via private jet — can be a carbon-heavy endeavor. But there are ways to reduce that footprint. If you can’t avoid flying altogether, consider reducing your footprint by opting for more efficient airlines when you can. Among the most reputable international airlines when it comes to efficiency are Norwegian Air and Aer Lingus. Domestically, Alaska Airlines, Spirit and Frontier rank highly.

Though it’s not as effective as cutting back on carbonheavy activities, you can buy carbon offsets, which involves donating money to projects that can help compensate for the

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carbon emitted during certain activities, like flying. Several companies offer this service, but they’re not all created equal, so you’ll have to do some legwork to determine their authenticity. Projects you can pay into may include tree planting, methane capture at farms and hydro and wind power facilities. The organization Green-e.org has a solid set of guidelines if you’re looking to go this route.

When traveling, check out carbon-neutral or less impactful activities like kayaking, hiking and exploring on foot rather than renting a powerboat or going skydiving.

Reduce the amount of stuff you pack, thereby lowering the amount of fuel it takes to transport you and your belongings.

More weight means more fuel in transport, whether you fly or drive, so packing light will help lower your carbon output.

If you’re really willing to make a sacrifice, don’t book a business- or first-class seat and opt instead for economy.

A study by the World Bank showed the carbon footprint of flying business class can be three times that of flying in

economy. For first class, that gap jumps up to nine times.

When booking a hotel, pick an ecologically minded company with sustainability programs that help lower the impact across the board, from the kitchen to housekeeping to the construction of the building. Hotel websites may feature sections on environment or corporate responsibility, which can clue you in to what the company is doing to reduce its impact. And be sure to take advantage of programs that allow you to save water by opting not to have your linens changed daily. Even better, use the “Do Not Disturb” sign on your door so housekeeping will skip the cleaning altogether, reducing energy use. And be sure to turn off your lights and adjust your thermostat when you leave the room.

If you’re taking a tour, pick a company that highlights environmental responsibility. Some may opt for green practices, like using hybrid vehicles, while others tout certain ethical practices that help lower the overall impact of touring. Doing some research can help you uncover these aspects.

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Good Intentions, Great Actions To make a real difference, choose an eco-friendly voluntourism program. BY NICOLE QUASTÉ HELPING HANDS:

Waterway conservation volunteers in New Zealand working with International Volunteer Headquarters PHOTO: © INTERNATIONAL VOLUNTEER HEADQUARTERS

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IN AN INCREASINGLY GLOBALIZED WORLD, one of social media and endless outlets for news dissemination, people and places feel closer together than ever. While this offers exciting opportunities, insight, situational awareness and human connection, it also unveils some of the real horrors communities around the world face on a daily basis — horrors difficult for many to ignore.

From natural disasters and war to poverty and resource depletion, the more people see, the more they want to help — and this is a complicated, albeit admirable, thing.

The combination of volunteering and tourism, or voluntourism, isn’t a new concept but is one of the fastest-growing trends in the travel industry. A recent study by Tourism Research and Marketing, an independent British consultancy, found an estimated 1.6 million people volunteer overseas each year and

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spend an estimated $2.6 billion.

It’s also an increasingly sensitive subject. Though wellmeaning on the surface, it comes under fire for its so-called self-beneficial nature, and it raises the question whether it causes more harm than good.

People travel the world in search of opportunities to “do good,” to help people, protect the environment, spread awareness and advocate for social change — an undoubtedly romantic notion. Despite the beauty in this, though, the practice is often laden with hypocrisy and fraught with backlash.

Headlines and opinion columns overflow with scathing comments and claims of praise-seeking, false saviors and ill-informed actions. Journalist Jacob Kushner shared an interesting story for The New York Times in 2016, explaining a situation he witnessed in which a group of Christian missionaries were building a school

in Haiti. Watching these people, he thought, “I couldn’t help wondering if their good intentions were misplaced.” Kushner points out these missionaries spent thousands of dollars to travel to Haiti and didn’t even actually know how to build a school.

Situations like this raise several questions. Could the money spent on the trip to Haiti be better allocated to local organizations? Would the construction project have been more beneficial to a local contractor in need of work? Was an environmental impact study done for the project? Is building a school worthwhile when there are larger problems like lack of teachers and education funding?

The dilemma voluntourism poses is whether or not good intentions are effectively acted upon and whether or not these efforts have real, lasting, positive impacts on the communities in receipt of the volunteer efforts.

Often, voluntourism initiatives are short-lived. Whether it’s a temporary medical clinic, an English language course, a river or forest cleanup or a construction project, if the efforts employed are not necessary or properly researched and conducted, the communities “served” are left with the potential negative repercussions long after the volunteers leave.

This being said, there are ways to travel in a socially and

environmentally responsible, not self-serving and non-exploitative, way.

According to a study by Sustainable Travel International in partnership with Mandala Research, 60 percent of leisure travelers in the United States took a sustainable trip in the last three years. These travelers spend significantly more and stay longer; more than three-fifths feel they have a responsibility to make sure their trips do not harm a destination’s people, environment or economy.

At the recent Ecotourism and Sustainable Tourism Conference in Ansan, South Korea, TripAdvisor announced the results of an eco-friendly travel survey of more than 700 U.S. travelers.

Of those surveyed, 71 percent said they plan to make more eco-friendly choices in the next 12 months, compared to 65 percent the year before. However, while travelers are interested in sustainable practices, many feel they’re not well enough informed on the subject.

I interviewed Jessica Blotter, CEO and co-founder, Kind Traveler, a socially conscious hotel booking platform, to make the case for eco-friendly voluntourism and provide helpful insight on the trend.

With a company mission to “transform the incredible collec-

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WORKING TOGETHER:

Volunteers with International Volunteer Headquarters and a local school cleaning up coastal areas in New Zealand PHOTO: © INTERNATIONAL VOLUNTEER HEADQUARTERS

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GLOBAL PERSPECTIVE:

Collette Vacations voluntourism group PHOTOS: © COLLETTE VACATIONS

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tive of everyday travelers into a financial force that betters the health and wellbeing of individuals, animals and the environment,” Kind Traveler allows users to give a $10 nightly donation to a local charity in the communities they visit.

With this laudable mission in mind, I asked Blotter what people can do to positively impact a destination, especially when it comes to the environment.

“You can search for hotels based on the environmental initiatives they have in place such as bee programs, EV charging stations, composting and more,” she offered.

Other tips Blotter suggests for leaving a positive mark include “bringing your own reusable water bottle and avoiding all single-use plastics as much as possible (including drinking straws), bringing your own reusable bag to avoid plastic bags, use public transport or ride a bike, support locally owned restaurants, only purchase souvenirs from local artisans made from natural materials made without animal parts or skins and use locally operated tour companies.”

For those planning a volunteer trip, choosing the right company or organization to travel with is key.

“One of the biggest mistakes people make when it comes to voluntourism is failing to align with an organization that has been vetted for creating a responsible and sustainable authentic impact to local communities,” explained Blotter. “For immersive travel experiences that create a positive social impact to local communities, I love Visit.org, Lokal and Urban.”

Social impact tour companies like Collette Vacations and G Adventures combine social and environmental projects with traditional tour experiences, partnering with local educational programs and local businesses. New Zealand-based International Volunteer Headquarters connects tourists with volunteer

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opportunities in more than 40 destinations; its Sustainable Coastlines volunteer program in New Zealand focuses on coastal and waterway conservation. Global Vision International makes sustainable, long-term contributions toward key global and local issues as defined in the United Nations Millennium Development Goals.

These incredible organizations, like so many others, promote responsible travel, implementing long-term projects to improve the well-being of local people and the local environment.

Tourism itself is often one of the most viable and sustainable development options for countries, but it poses challenges when it comes to overtourism. I asked Blotter how we can visit places prone to overtourism and have a minimal negative — or even positive — impact.

“By planning ahead and making responsible travel decisions that support businesses (hotels, tour operators, restaurants, shops) that are locally owned and managed with sustainability in mind, it’s possible to help keep tourism dollars in local communities and support businesses that care about the planet.”

Blotter added, “Consider exploring and staying in locations that are ‘off the beaten path.’ Rather than going to the popular tourist destinations in a particular city, consider visiting lesserknown destinations that are nearby and just as rewarding. Always remember to leave no trace and be respectful to locals.”

Voluntourism is a trend defined by good intentions, but good intentions are just that — intentions. It’s how we choose to act that makes a real difference. Different needs call for different actions, whether they be physical, educational or monetary. To engage in effective voluntourism, it’s critical we educate ourselves on the true needs of the communities we visit. We have the luxury of endless information at our fingertips — use it, and use it well.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Discover Seoul

THE PLAZA Seoul, Autograph Collection’s new offer allows travelers to experience the culture-rich city.

INDEPENDENT BUSINESS AND LEISURE travelers are eager to discover the local culture, shopping, accommodations and amenities of the destination they’re visiting, and leading Korean luxury boutique hotel THE PLAZA Seoul, Autograph Collection launches the Delight Seoul offer, aimed at providing travelers unique experiences in a destination rich in culture and history.

THE OFFER INCLUDES a Discover Seoul Pass, accommodations at THE PLAZA Seoul, breakfast at the hotel’s The Seven Square, multilingual brochures and services from THE PLAZA Concierge Team. The special is available for two or more nights.

THE PLAZA SEOUL, designed by Italian architect Guido Ciompi, offers captivating views across Seoul. All the hotel’s guestrooms feature Handy, a smart service offering complimentary local and international phone calls, Internet use and access to THE PLAZA SHOP, a platform offering professionally curated items to be ordered and delivered to each guestroom.

“FOREIGN VISITORS HAVE recently been showing strong interest in Seoul and its culture,” according to a hotel official. “We therefore looked for a special and unique service that could offer diverse experiences of both the hotel and the Korean capital outside. We are committed to providing more experiences beyond expectation for tourists visiting Seoul with various services exclusive to THE PLAZA Seoul, Korea’s leading five-star hotel.”

THE INCLUDED DISCOVER Seoul Pass offers access to 21 top Seoul attractions, including N Seoul Tower, Gyeongnokgung Palace, Deoksugung Palace, the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art and SM Town, plus discounts on a variety of performance tickets and shopping. The pass is also a transportation card, and can be linked to a mobile app with remaining validity time and attraction information in multiple languages, allowing passholders to optimize their time in Seoul.

For reservations and inquiries, call THE PLAZA Seoul at 82.2.771.2200 or visit the website at marriott.com/selak.

mice | TAIPEI

Smart City Turn to Taipei for international events in a prime location.

BY ELYSE GLICKMAN

GREEN MEETING:

Grand Hyatt Taipei event space PHOTO: © GRAND HYATT TAIPEI

t larges sia’s A , i e ip more X Ta UTE racts t P t a M , ow CO adesh round IT tr rom a l f a s u r n an ito anies exhib . comp ,600 1 .S n U a g th cludin DIA , NVI rld, in t o f w o s e ro th l, Mic time irsts Inte f a a h c s a su sla w ell. Te D d . an 2017 or in t i b i h ex

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“MADE IN TAIWAN.” It is a phrase Westerners are familiar with; however, thanks to the efforts of Taipei City’s government and business organization in the past decade, those words take on a whole new meaning, along with a lot of excitement and opportunity.

Numbers presented by the Taiwan Tourism Bureau provide the proof. In 2015 more than 10.4 million overall visitors came to Taiwan, which climbed to nearly 10.7 million in 2016. Those visiting for meetings, conferences or other business activities were estimated at 833,415 in 2015 and 812,548 in 2016.

“One of the biggest things Taipei has going for it is that it has a bit of everything in terms of Asian culture and business amenities,” notes Peter Ou, communications manager, Grand Hyatt Taipei, whose large ballrooms and dining options make it a natural choice for international meetings and conferences. “Furthermore, North American companies and meeting planners who want to have a presence in Asia are going to see real value for their money. On average, luxury hotel accommodations and meeting spaces are going to be about 10 percent less expensive than counterparts in Tokyo or Hong Kong, which can add up based on the size of the meeting or presence at a convention.”

Taipei City’s location and network of trade and passenger routes also prove major selling points for North American companies looking to participate in meetings and conferences in Asia.

Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport and the in-town Taipei Songshan Airport play important roles as gateways into Asia. Through Taoyuan, 5 million passengers fly into Taipei per year, with a volume of nearly 60,000 aircraft. Taipei Rapid Transit Corp. (aka Taipei Metro) and the Taoyuan Metro, meanwhile, make it easy for executive travelers to get to appointments and offer easy access to the city’s museums, historic temples and year-round outdoor activities. Visitors can also explore the city on their own or as part of a retreat by bike, thanks to the city’s YouBike program, launched in 2009.

“Taiwan is currently a leader in Asia’s technology industry, and Taipei as the capital city and central business hub holds a significant position among Asian financial markets,” says Brad Shih, director, Taiwan Tourism Bureau, Los Angeles office. “While Taipei is one of the fastest-growing cities and has a lot of potential for further development and growth within Asia, it presents many opportunities for Taiwanese businesses to connect with and collaborate with firms

IN ATTENDANCE:

The Plenary Hall at Taipei International Convention Center PHOTO: © TAIPEI INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION CENTER

UNIQUE VENUES

Taipei Eats Tours is one of the most delicious ways for visitors to eat like a local while getting their bearings. Cofounder Tina Fong notes a tour not only familiarizes participants with the city’s geography but also serves as an “icebreaker experience,” as they get to interact with locals and explore neighborhoods they would not see in busier districts like the Taipei 101 area. Taipei East can design bespoke tours for business groups based on the food preferences or dietary needs of participants and the guides’ intimate knowledge of Taipei City’s hidden culinary gems in its legendary night markets and up-and-coming neighborhoods. taipeieats.com

from the world. For these reasons, I project Taipei will increasingly establish a strong presence on an international level.”

Industry-spanning conventions are staged at Taipei Nangang Exhibition Center Hall 1, a key landmark in Taipei for the MICE industry in the Xinyi neighborhood. It offers 490,000 square feet of exhibition space and capacity for more than 18,000 people.

Opened in 2008, the center (also known as TWTC and TaipeiEx) was first to win ISO 20121 certification based on its sustainable practices on construction and its servicing of venues for conferences, exhibitions and events. Its Hall 2, meanwhile, is expected to open before 2020. Combining both halls, the center overall will have an exhibition capacity of 5,000 booths.

Xinyi is also home to the Taipei International Convention Center (opened 1989), hosting an average 850 major conventions, conferences and projects annually. It adjoins the Taipei World Trade Center, a comprehensive business venue launched in January 1986 by the trade promotion organization Taiwan External Trade Development Council. The Taoyuan Aerotropolis Vision Hall, less than an hour from the city center, is under construction, slated to open in the early 2020s as part of an expansive multipurpose development. According to Huang Shih-Cho, the project’s chairman, it integrates technologically advanced green energy and “smart city solutions” to ensure it meets governmentestablished guidelines of “three lows and one high” — low energy consumption, low pollution and low water usage, along with high

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added value.

Taipei’s cultural, historic and outdoor leisure destinations are tailor-made for corporate retreats and activities. Taipei 101 (as one would expect) includes a private event venue on the 101st floor as well as the prestigious Shin Yeh Dining restaurant. The National Palace Museum adjoins the opulent Silks Palace Restaurant, noted for its Imperial Treasures Feast modeled after its works of art. The Maokong Gondola, a four-stop, 2.7-mile cable car ride from Taipei Zoo to Maokong, ascends to a serene mountaintop village known for its tea plantations. Other sites with an environmental focus include Yoshan Tea Qingtian Club’s interesting tea-making experience and the Elephant Mountain hiking trail at the outer reaches of the city limits.

Planners looking to stage events in hip urban settings will be inspired by what the Huashan Cultural and Creative Park and the Songshan Cultural and Creative Park — both composed of repurposed industrial buildings — have to offer. In addition to abundant meeting rooms, suites and executive lounges, The Mandarin Oriental, Taipei (one of the city’s green hotels ranked

by Expedia) makes a top pick for its restaurants, innovative cocktail lounge, astute concierge staff and creative afternoon high teas with conversation-starting nibbles. And, of course, there’s the Grand Hyatt, another of Taipei’s green hotels by Expedia, which has long worked in tandem with various trade organizations vested in bringing the world into Taipei City.

The Gaia Hotel, in the city’s Beitou district, boasts many earmarks of a chic business boutique hotel. The 3-year-old property features a luminous and towering main lobby and library, superb Taiwanese fine-dining/banquet restaurant Quiyan One and an exceptional cellar and wine program. Its beautifully appointed terraces and meeting rooms offer panoramic views. However, what makes this spot a gem is the integration of Mother Nature into the property with its openair public hot springs area, private soaking rooms and pool outfitted with a therapeutic area. The water is sourced from underground white sulphur springs generations of locals have sworn by for its health benefits. thegaiahotel.com

BUSINESS destinations the t with n e m n ion In alig te Act a m i l lC in Globa g held r, n i e b tembe it p m e m S u S this l ncisco a r F 18 wil 0 2 San t s e Film F n new e e r G pelling m o c t 70 ent. presen ironm v n e e on th films

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destination one | SINGAPORE

A Delicate Balance Urban planners weave conservation into development as Singapore goes green. BY KARIN LEPERI FULL BLOOM: The National Orchid Garden at Singapore Botanic Gardens PHOTO : Š CRISTINA STOIAN | DREAMSTIME.COM

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SINGAPORE IS SERIOUS ABOUT protecting the environment, preserving natural resources, conserving energy and creating plenty of green spaces for quality living. Even though it has a population density of about 18,000 people per square mile, nevertheless it ensures environmental and energy measures go hand in hand with greenery and gardens. This winning combination is a telling

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tribute to the efficiency and ingenuity of the melting pot of cultures that calls Singapore home.

Furthermore, Singapore takes its carbon footprint seriously. The solar panels at Marina Barrage serve as an example of Singapore’s energy conservation commitment. A showpiece of environmental sustainability, the Solar Park has 405 panels to supplement daytime electrici-

COMING AND GOING

U.S. citizens must possess a passport valid for at least six months beyond entry to Singapore. A visa is required for stays of 90 days or longer.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE

The national language is Malay but Tamil, Mandarin and English are also spoken.

SOLAR POWER: Supertrees at Gardens by the Bay PHOTO : © RICHIE CHAN | DREAMSTIME.COM

’s world e h t s a of pore h ation Singa r t n e c t con lds, highes useho o h e r nai ercent millio p 6 1 bout g with a havin s d l o h se e in of hou r mor o n o i l l s. $1 mi asset e l b a t inves

LODGING ANDAZ SINGAPORE The recently opened Andaz is strategically located near Marina Bay at the crossroads of the Kampong Glam, Little India and Bras Basah Bugis cultural districts.

5 Fraser St. $$$$ FOUR SEASONS HOTEL SINGAPORE Less than half a mile from nearby Orchard Road, this 5-star hotel combines timeless luxury with modern conveniences. The Botanic Gardens, luxury boutiques and gourmet restaurants all lie within walking distance.

190 Orchard Blvd. $$$$

ty in the gallery and offices in the barrage. The panels produce the equivalent monthly electrical consumption of 180 average Singapore households.

Renowned veteran wildlife consultant and nature guide Subarai Raiathurai has been an environmental activist and instrumental force in preserving several of Singapore’s ecosystems: Sungei Buloh, a mangrove forest in northwest Singapore slated for redevelopment, and 300 acres of forest at Lower Peirce

Reservoir. Campaigning relentlessly for the last 35 years, Raiathurai is an ardent proponent for blending urban landscapes with the preservation of hidden ecosystems.

And green spaces are everywhere. With four nature reserves and more than 1.3 million trees growing in the island city-state, Singapore rightfully earned the nickname of City in a Garden. It is estimated nearly 50 percent of Singapore is laced with greenery.

SHANGRI-LA HOTEL SINGAPORE Located less than a mile from nearby Singapore Botanic Gardens, Shangri-La Hotel offers a 5-star oasis set amid 15 acres of lush greenery and is consistently voted as one of the best hotels in the world.

22 Orange Grove Road $$$$

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PERCHES: Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve bird-watching tower (top), and kingfisher pod (bottom) PHOTOS: © SOON WEE MENG | DREAMSTIME.COM, © TANG90246 | DREAMSTIME.COM

INFO TO GO

Singapore has two commercial airports: the world-class Changi (SIN), where most international flights arrive, and Senai International Airport (JHB), servicing international and domestic flights from Senai, Malaysia, about 38 miles from Singapore. Changi Airport lies about 12 miles from the center of Singapore and is consistently voted one of the best airports in the world. Also one of the busiest and bestconnected, Changi serves more than 100 airlines flying to 380 cities in 90 countries and territories. The train station is accessible by foot from Changi’s Terminal 2 or Terminal 3. To get to the city, transfer to the westbound train at Tanah Merah station. Taxis are available at taxi stands at the arrival levels of each terminal. A ride to the city takes about 30 minutes and costs $20–40. Fares are metered; expect an additional airport surcharge.

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CHECKING IN WITH SUBARAI RAIATHURAI Naturalist and wildlife consultant With comments from Singapore Tourism

What makes Singapore a great destination for business travelers?

RAIATHURAI: In Singapore you can get from a 5-star hotel to a rainforest in 20 minutes. Since many consider Singapore the gateway to Asia, it is as much a gateway for nature.

What’s new in terms of development and foreign investment?

RAIATHURAI: There are a few developments in the works including the new Mandai nature district that will have the bird park and a new rainforest safari join the existing zoo, night safari and river safari at Mandai. On the conservation and eco-tourism end, Pulau Ubin has been set aside as it is and being enhanced and preserved for its iconic pillars of nature, culture, history, adventure and education aspects.

Why is Singapore going green?

RAIATHURAI: Singapore has always realized, starting with Mr. Lee Kuan Yew, constant urbanization will impact our daily lives. Starting with tree planting back in the 1970s, the creation of parks and green connectors and the preservation of worthwhile nature areas important for biodiversity represent ways to keep the delicate balance between development

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and conservation. Singapore is, after all, a City in a Garden.

More than that, as a developed nation, we have a global responsibility to retain and protect biodiversity.

Why is Singapore thriving?

RAIATHURAI: There are many, many reasons, including keeping in touch with the rest of the region and world as well as ensuring partnerships regionally and globally.

SINGAPORE TOURISM: Singapore continues to thrive thanks to our ability to constantly innovate beyond our constraints, making the city-state increasingly important on the global stage. Overall functional strengths like commitment to safety and world-class infrastructure are equally matched by a unique and ever-growing foodie culture, diverse cultural offerings and the never-settling spirit and resilience of those who call Singapore home.

What’s on the horizon?

RAIATHURAI: New attractions, better infrastructure and more success!

SINGAPORE TOURISM: As a global retail city, popular MICE destination and palate-stimulating paradise for foodies, Singapore is constantly evolving to offer even more experiences to travelers who visit from across the globe. In 2017 alone, new attractions including AJ Hackett Sentosa, Changi

Airport’s Terminal 4, Dover Street Market and the Ethnobotany Garden at the Singapore Botanic Gardens brought new life and experiences to the city-state. New attractions, restaurants, hotels, business innovations and more success are constantly on the horizon in Singapore, and the same will ring true in 2018.

Why do people travel to Singapore?

RAIATHURAI: Singapore is a small nation that has much to offer in terms of a safe environment. It is the gateway to Asia in more ways than one, including nature. It is a great place to have a holiday and do business. Business travelers consider it a safe place with a stable economy, excellent infrastructure and transportation.

DINING ALMA BY JUAN AMADOR Enjoy European cuisine with an Asian twist at this Michelin-rated restaurant helmed by one of the world’s best: Chef Juan Amador, a German of Spanish descent.

Goodwood Park Hotel, 22 Scotts Road $$$$ CANDLENUT As the world’s first Michelin-starred Peranakan restaurant, Candlenut serves refined Peranakan cuisine — a mix of Chinese, Malay and other influences — in a casually elegant setting.

Singapore’s oldest fusion cuisine is considered by many its finest.

17A Dempsey Road $$$$ COLONY Enjoy an acclaimed international buffet in a British colonial setting. Eight different conservatory kitchens incorporate live cooking, offering Singapore heritage cuisine: Singaporean, Chinese, Japanese, Indian, seafood, European, Malaysian and Indonesian dishes.

Vegetarian-friendly.

The Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Singapore, 7 Raffles Ave. $$$$

LOCAL LIFE: Night Safari (top), and local cuisine (bottom) PHOTOS: © SAM D\'CRUZ | DREAMSTIME.COM, © SURASAK | DREAMSTIME.COM

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LEGENDARY ICONS: Gardens by the Bay Cloud Forest (left), Orchid Garden (top right), and Merlion Park (bottom right) PHOTOS: © ROBW58 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © HAKBAK | DREAMSTIME .COM, © ERIX2005 | DREAMSTIME.COM

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DIVERSIONS

Don’t miss The National Orchid Garden, the largest tropical orchid garden in the world. It is one of several gardens within Singapore Botanic Gardens. Situated at the fringe of Singapore’s Orchard Road shopping district, the tropical gardens were designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2016, the country’s first.

The Singapore government designed and built Gardens by the Bay to transform Singapore from a Garden City to a City in a Garden. It’s part of the government’s strategy in recognizing quality of life is enhanced by blooms and greenery. The gardens are essentially an urban jungle based in Marina Bay. The most iconic landmark is The Supertree Grove, with 18 supertrees supporting a panoramic aerial walkway. The Flower Dome is the largest greenhouse in the world and showcases numerous types of plants and flowers grouped by country, while the Cloud Forest features the world’s tallest indoor waterfall.

Dedicated to sustainability, Changi International Airport offers more than a transit hub. The Terminal 1 Cactus Garden, a rooftop garden with a bar, features more than 100 species of cacti and arid plants from the deserts and dry areas of Asia, Africa and America. The Water Lily Garden features its namesake in a natural aquatic garden environment. Terminal 2 boasts

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more than 700 orchids of 30 species in the Orchid Garden, grouped by colors and shapes, representing the four elements of nature. The outdoor Sunflower Garden features several sunflower varieties grown in Changi Airport’s nursery. At night, special lighting transforms the rooftop haven. In Terminal 3, visit the world’s first airport Butterfly Garden, designed as a tropical butterfly habitat with flowering plants, lush greenery and a grotto-waterfall. The garden hosts more than 1,000 tropical butterflies from as many as 40 species during different seasons of the year.

On Marina Bay, Merlion Park hosts Singapore’s iconic Merlion statue. The head of a lion with the body and tail of a fish, the mythical beast spouts water into the bay. The park’s panoramic view of the bay is a crowd favorite, even more so at night.

Opened in 1994 next to the Singapore Zoo, the Singapore Night Safari is the world’s first safari park for nocturnal animals.

Managed by Wildlife Reserves Singapore, this world-class attraction is dedicated to conservation, rescue and research to help improve the lives of animals in captivity and the wild. The safari provides an unusual glimpse into the nocturnal animal kingdom and is home to more than 2,500 animals representing more than 130 species. Walking trails and trams connect eight geographical regions.

stateside | SAN FRANCISCO

Unconventional Beauty A surge in green policies and projects keeps San Francisco fresh. BY CARLEY D. THORNELL OUTDOOR ACCESS:

Artist's rendering of the Moscone Convention Center, playground and street view (above); and the Presidio Cliff Walk and aerial views of Presidio (right) PHOTOS: © SKIDMORE OWNING & MERRILL, © STUART LOCKLEAR PHOTOGRAPHY, © PRESIDIO TRUST

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WITH A SHEEN OF CONSTRUCTION DUST still on the escalator handrails, Michael J. Wilson’s fingerprints can be felt both literally and figuratively. The Moscone Convention Center senior project manager surveys the just-completed third phase of a four-phase expansion project like a proud papa of a baby just delivered on time, and indeed it has. So far, there’ve been no construction delays, and the eastern portion of the new building project was completed in September 2017.

“It was essential since the biggest events of the year are held every September and October. Oracle and Salesforce switch off when they’re here, and it was like a huge race against time — which is always motivational,” he says.

All in all, after the western side of the building is completed (scheduled for the end of 2018), the project will add 170,000 gross square feet of meeting space; a 50,000-square-foot ballroom; and an enclosed pedestrian bridge connecting the existing North and South buildings. It makes Moscone more competitive in a marketplace where the San Francisco landmark formerly had less than 50 percent of exhibit space per square foot compared to the top 12 most competitive convention centers in the country.

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But facts and figures aside, Wilson is also proud of the aesthetic and points out a cohesive diamond pattern on the hallway flags and windows (which also cuts down on glare). “It can be a real challenge to make these large buildings pleasant to look at, but I think it’s done well with some really nice finishing touches,” he says.

He’s right. Exterior artwork by Leo Villareal, Christine Corday, Sarah Sze and Brandon Monroe gives the neighborhood extra flair that helps it fit right into the exhibit-filled seven-by-seven grid where the Contemporary Jewish Museum and under-construction Mexican Museum punctuate the skyline. Visible from the terrace of the eastern wing is the bustling children’s playground that includes a 25-foot-long tube slide, a climbing wall, labyrinth, fountains and more. It’s all part of Yerba Buena Gardens, an urban green oasis surrounded by hotels and retail centers that enjoy a symbiotic relationship with Moscone — soon enhanced by two major transportation projects. The Transbay Terminal, due for completion at the end of this year, will mean commuter rail passengers no longer need to transfer to reach the nearby financial district; and the 4th Street Central Subway project (2019) will

is eeping k e e neyb of top ho f o o R series s a n i ogram st r e p t a y l l nd the t-frie n e m n ht o of eig envir m u i t k onsor ; chec c s l a e t t o a co h ift’s ancis r F he Cl n t t Sa a e lts , wher e resu h m t o o t u R o ood al Redw k n sever a n i sw d use eld is i y e h t ails. cockt

SCENIC DRIVES

improve the routing and speed of some of the city’s most traveled thoroughfares.

Transportation enhancements and conveniences are not in short supply, either, when accessing another of San Francisco’s urban respites, Presidio Park. The free PresidiGo Tunnel system connects three hightraffic areas in the center of the city to farther afield.

The buses that head here are even outfitted with bike racks for visitors to enjoy a 24-mile trail network that connects beaches, nature sites, restaurants (including affordable options from well-respected Bay Area toque Traci Des Jardins) and such institutions as The Walt Disney Family Museum.

It’s a far cry from the space originally outfitted as a military fort in the 1700s, and parade grounds that used to host Army bands are now the gathering place for kite-flyers and food truck festivals. There’ll be even more space for campfires, paths and gardens and an interactive playscape for children come 2020, when the Presidio Tunnel Tops project is slated for completion. The 14-acre park will rest over the area where the Golden Gate Bridge tunnels were moved underground 25 years ago. It’s part of a dramatic re-envisioning by the same landscape architecture firm — James Corner Field Operations — that transformed Manhattan’s High Line.

“I was a Boy Scout, and from an early age I always

knew how important it was to have access to the outdoors and green areas,” says Michael Boland, chief of planning, Presidio Trust, which manages almost all of the 1,480-acre enclave within Golden Gate National Recreation Area. “You’ve got a historical site, camping and educational ecological experiences with free access just a few miles from the city center. It’s something special that not all major metropolises can claim.”

For those seeking accommodations a bit more high-tech than a tent, the complex also hosts Inn at the Presidio, a 22-room boutique hotel, and the 42-room Lodge at the Presidio, slated to open this summer. It will offer some of the most unobstructed and closest hotel views of the Golden Gate Bridge.

Closer to the action in Nob Hill, business travelers will have a shorter commute to events at the Moscone and beyond via the newly reimagined Stanford Court Hotel, whose $16 million redesign should be complete by the end of this spring. A fresh porte cochère, lobby, café and bar, guestrooms, fitness center and meeting spaces welcome guests who enjoy boutique touches like locally roasted coffee and rock music from a different San Francisco band on each of its eight floors. Artwork in the lobby is geared toward the technology-focused traveler, with interactive panels featuring a descriptor of the creator’s ethos and how to purchase prints as souvenirs.

Just 45 minutes from San Francisco but seemingly a world away, Napa and Sonoma feature plenty of reasons for business or pleasure travelers to raise a glass. Not the least of these is easy access from the city center, and one may quickly rent a car and head out to wineries and tasting rooms.

One of the best parts is the drive, and a scenic cruise over the Golden Gate Bridge offers up plenty of picture-taking opportunities. Get an early start and stop en route in Petaluma for a coffee and French-style pastry at Della Fattoria Bakery, whose owner, Kathleen Weber, used to bake bread for Chef Thomas Keller (of The French Laundry) and his Napa endeavors.

For a family-run winery, head to Martinelli in Windsor, or try a few Bordeaux and Sonoma varietals at the new G&C Lurton Vineyard Tasting Room. A car also provides easier access to the breathtaking Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve.

Those with really limited time will enjoy the hop-on, hop-off Napa Valley Wine Train, with antique Pullman cars and lunch or dinner service available. If you don’t have a designated driver, there’s a convenient Monday–Friday ferry service from San Francisco, and weekends and holidays offer bus service to and from the same locations.

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9–5 | LJUBLJANA

Taking the Initiative Sustainability practices add to the ease of doing business in Ljubljana. BY KRISTY ALPERT GOING GREEN: Panorama of the Slovenian capital

PHOTO: © KASTO80 | DREAMSTIME.COM

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LOCATED AT THE HALFWAY POINT between Vienna and Venice in a country that literally has “love” in the middle of its name, the Slovenian capital of Ljubljana is uniquely situated as a convenient and hospitable choice for doing business. A decade ago, only a handful of tourists could pronounce the city’s name (it’s pronounced lyoo-BLYAH-nah), let alone locate it on a map, but today the city is renowned across the globe for its charming atmosphere and groundbreaking green initiatives.

Ljubljana was the first capital in Europe to adopt a zero-waste program, and over the past decade the city carried out more than 1,800 green projects aimed at improving the urban environment. The European Commission named it the Green Capital of Europe in 2016. It boasts more than 5,800 square feet of public green space per resident, and with only 275,000 people in the city — 50,000 of whom are university students

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— that’s a significant amount of greenery for a capital.

In 2017 Ljubljana ranked on the list of global top 100 sustainable destinations for the third time, praised largely for the pedestrian-friendly atmosphere the city created since first restricting the amount of cars in the city center in 1960.

Today cars are completely banned on the main streets, but the city provides free transport via electrically powered golf buggies (kavalirs) and pedicabs and maintains a successful bicycle borrowing system that makes it easy to get around between meetings and before and after work shifts.

The city offers free WiFi for up to 60 minutes per day for visitors through WiFree Ljubljana, although visitors need only pick up a Ljubljana Tourist Card for around €24 (about $30) to enjoy 24-hour free access to the WiFree Ljubljana network as well as free access to more than 15 attractions in the city, a free guided city tour and free travel on city buses.

Slovenian is the native tongue for most residents in the city — a language closely related to Croatian, Serbian, Slovak and Czech — although many Slovenians speak English as a second language, and many have a strong grasp of German and Italian as well. Slovenia lies in the

Schengen area and has been a member of the European Union since 2004 and of the Eurozone since 2007. At least a pocketful of euros will get you far around this European city, but MasterCard, Maestro, Visa, Visa Electron, Amex and Diners are widely accepted in most shops and restaurants around the city.

The average workweek runs Monday through Friday, with days beginning at 9 a.m. and ending at 5 p.m., although banks generally operate Monday through Friday 8 a.m.–5 p.m., with a one-hour lunch break around noon. Most businesses operate 36- to 40-hour workweeks with a 30-minute break factored in for lunch. European social conventions are standard when it comes to most business dealings, where smart dress and punctuality transcend any cultural differences that may arise. A professional but firm handshake is often the greeting used between colleagues, and new encounters generally start with the exchange of business cards before moving on to formal introductions and eventually the business matter at hand.

Many restaurants and cafés offer business lunch specials that help keep afternoon meetings running on schedule. Set menus or limited choices are on offer at establishments like Restavracija Ošterija Pr’Noni, a favorite in the city for its clean, charming atmosphere and exceptional quality of ingredients. The restaurant fills up during lunch hours with businessmen and -women taking to the fresh, organic salad bar and locally sourced meat dishes on the menu, so it’s best to make a reservation for larger groups.

Meeting around the water cooler looks a bit different in Ljubljana, as you’ll find many locals crowded around the more than 30 outdoor drinking fountains in the city center and suburbs for a free taste of pure, natural spring water. The city launched a Tap Water Ljubljana app that directs you to the nearest natural water fountain. Each of the fountains listed is maintained and checked for water purity periodically to ensure drinkability.

In the summer the city hosts Odprta Kuhna (Open Kitchen) at Pogačarjev trg Square every Friday, 10 a.m.–9 p.m. This sustainability-focused open-air food market has become a popular place for colleagues and friends to meet after work for a quick sip of local Slovenian wine or a taste of the city’s best flavors. More than 100 of the city’s best establishments, such as Restavracija Strelec and Restavracija JB, set up stands each week to offer sample portions of their most popular menu items. Freshness and innovation are the focus with this unique food market, which not only encourages vendors to use returnable or biodegradable packaging but also carefully sorts and recycles all waste and donates leftovers to people in need.

FRESH FOCUS:

Outdoor dining at the open-air food market PHOTOS: © KRISTY ALPERT

The Vander ort, Urbani Res

located near cafés restaurants, sites, and historic nessoffers busi ages tailored pack that include ry complimenta ee breakfast, fr WiFi and

ry complimenta ning. laundry/iro

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after 5 | OSLO

Local Attraction Discover the hot spots to meet cool people in Oslo. BY GREGORY D. MCCLUNEY

or of liqu r e t s o ted r nt. mplica o c l conte o a h o s c a l h y da 18 Norwa d on age an at age e n i w e as . and laws b spirits h beer r t i o f w s s in -plu It beg to 25 s d n e t and ex

OSLO IS ONE OF EUROPE’S SMALLEST CAPITALS, with a population of only 672,000. Its Scandinavian latitude means long, dark winters and many cold nights.

Summers are short and sweet, the time to get outside and enjoy the spectacular scenery.

Citizens take their ecology seriously, as evidenced by an extensive recycling program and the cleanest roadways you’ll find anywhere. Visitors are in awe of its pristine fjords named by National Geographic as “the best unspoiled travel destination in the world.”

During those long winters, people have their favorite places to entertain friends and clients or just hang out and relax, regardless of the weather.

If you prefer to combine some shopping with a taste of Norwegian nightlife (some bars don’t serve until 9 p.m.), a good place to start in central Oslo is the main pedestrian street, Karl Johan, with its designer shops, upscale bars and restaurants. Or stay warm in the downtown shopping malls: Paleet, Eger and Steen & Strøm. Then venture to Hegdehaugsveien, another great street for shopping.

For evening cultural offerings, check on the performances at the Oslo Opera House on the waterfront. Or stroll the Aker Brygge and Tjuvholmen seaside areas and meet some locals relaxing after work. Oslo’s main jazz venue is Victoria, where there’s always live music.

Not many years ago, if you walked into an Oslo pub for a beer, you got one choice. Now one pub alone, Schouss Brewpub, offers a rotation of 60. For something unique, the Underwater Pub takes you into a sunken ship between sets of, yes, opera! (Bring your own food.)

Good music and Latin cocktails draw customers to Perla, a cozy neighborhood bar. For the dance crowd, rave away at The Villa, a techno club. Sample the fare at a Japanese pub, Izakaya, which features a great selection of saké paired with traditional plates, or try Aku-Aku, a tiki bar in the center of the Løkka area.

For LGBTQ visitors, this capital prides itself on a warm welcome for everyone, but of particular note is the London Pub, NIGHT AT THE OPERA: downtown, an institution in Oslo since the 1970s.

View of Oslo from the Opera House (top), and Oslo Opera House (bottom)

PHOTOS: © LITTLEWORMY | DREAMSTIME.COM, © VICHAYA KIATYING-ANGSULEE | DREAMSTIME.COM

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neighborhoods | CURITIBA

WALK IN THE PARK: Passeio Publico Park (left), and Parque Tanguá (below) PHOTOS © PAULO NABAS | DREAMSTIME .COM, © DIEGO GRANDI | DREAMSTIME.COM

Urban Paradise Stroll the abundant green spaces of Curitiba. BY JACK GUY

BRAZIL Rio de Janeiro Curitiba

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WITH AROUND 2 MILLION inhabitants, Curitiba is the largest city in southern Brazil. In contrast to most Latin American metropolises, the city stands out for its sustainable urban planning, earning it praise around the world.

One of the most noticeable effects of the planning regime is the impressive use of public space. Where other cities prioritize the car, Curitiba is paradise for pedestrians. Former mayor Jaime Lerner provoked resistance from locals when he pedestrianized the central shopping district in 1972, but it was quickly accepted as a roaring success.

Today the Rua das Flores remains a centerpiece of the city, encouraging people to spend time walking among the gardens or eating and drinking at the cafés and restaurants. At one end lies the Passeio Publico with its organic produce markets and several hotels such as the Mabu Curitiba Business. The architecture also impresses, with visible influences from the European immigrants who arrived in waves throughout the history of the city.

From Germans, Italians, Poles and Ukrainians who

arrived in the 1850s to the more recent arrivals of the 1960s, Curitiba has long been known for its diverse population. One of the oldest neighborhoods in Curitiba, Bairro Alto, offers a genuine pocket of local life in the big city. The restaurants are great, such as the Italian cuisine served at Di’ Bethina, and check out good bars like Bagda Lounge and Vava Beer House if you fancy a drink.

Aside from the huge variety of culinary and cultural influences, perhaps the most important aspect of Curitiba is the amount of open space. With more than 530 square feet of green space per inhabitant, it’s one of the greenest cities in the world, and no visit would be complete without seeing some of the parks. Stroll two of the most beautiful in the whole city, the Bosque Irmã Clementina and Parque Tanguá, but you’ll find safe spaces to explore all around town.

Curitiba continues to grow, but in many ways its innovative planning makes it feel like a small city. It’s an intriguing place to visit and one that makes you feel at home.

where would

you rather be?

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friends & family | ICELAND

Raw Energy Explore how natural forces forged Iceland's rugged landscape.

BY RICHARD NEWTON

POWER OF NATURE:

Water-filled fissure in Thingvellir National Park (left), and Strokkur Geyser eruption (right) PHOTOS: © LEONID ANDRONOV | DREAMSTIME.COM, © TANAONTE | DREAMSTIME.COM

y’s niversit Yale U o t g x, in d ce Inde Accor forman r e P l a ntry nment est cou Enviro d-green n o c e s inland. is the nly by F Iceland o d e r e tt orld, be in the w

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IF ONLY GEOLOGY LESSONS were always like this. After driving 25 miles east of Reykjavík, capital of Iceland, we change into dry suits and flippers. Like fish out of water, we slap our way awkwardly along a path and then down a flight of metal steps. We pull on our facemasks, bite onto the mouthpieces of our snorkels and take the plunge into the narrow, deep fissure that divides Europe from North America.

Iceland is the ultimate classroom. Who knew geology could be so much fun? Snorkeling along the Silfra Fissure in Thingvellir National Park is just one of the experiences in this remarkable country that will forever transform children’s (and parents’) understanding of our planet.

A 40-minute guided snorkeling tour, costing $150 per person with all equipment provided, adds an incredible dimension to learning. The minimum age is 14 (there are also height and weight minimums), and all participants must be

able swimmers.

The dry suit keeps you warm in the frigid water, though you can still feel the numbing cold on the exposed flesh of your face. Minor discomforts are a small price to pay for the magical sensation of floating in astonishingly clear glacial water above a chasm that descends 65 feet.

You don’t have to get wet to experience the continental divide. For long stretches the fissure is dry, and you can walk along it. With rugged cliffs rising on both sides, you are actually within the gap between the European and North American tectonic plates.

You can get a sense of the awesome natural forces shaping Iceland even within your hotel bathroom. When you turn on the hot water faucet, there’s an unmistakable whiff of rotten eggs. The sulfurous water comes directly from geothermal springs up to 6,000 feet underground.

(Never put your hand under a running hot faucet in Iceland — it’s often at scalding temperature.)

This island nation learned to harness the vast quantities of raw energy bubbling beneath its rugged surface. All of the country’s power needs are obtained from renewable sources.

Geothermal water heats the houses, while hydropower and steam turbines provide electricity.

The waste water from the Svartsengi geothermal power station, 27 miles from Reykjavík, has become the country’s top tourist attraction, the famous Blue Lagoon. Take your swimming things and some conditioner to restore your hair in the shower afterward, and prepare for one of the most memorable experiences of your life.

Although it is open year-round, the Blue Lagoon is particularly impressive in winter.

Brace yourself for the short walk from the changing rooms to the water’s edge, then savor the relief as you immerse yourself in bath-hot spring water. The white silica sludge on the bottom of the lagoon is said to have healing properties, and many bathers scoop it up and cover themselves with it. Children under 8 are required to wear provided, inflatable armbands.

Perhaps the most spectacular manifestation of Iceland’s geothermal activity is found close to the Hvita River, a 90-minute drive east of Reykjavík. Here, threaded through with footpaths, lies a complex of natural bubbling pools of mud, fumaroles and geysers. The most dependable geyser is Strokkur, which erupts every 6–10 minutes, sending a plume

LODGING

ION ADVENTURE HOTEL An hour’s drive east of Reykjavík, set within rugged landscape close to Thingvellir National Park, this futuristic hotel on stilts seems straight out of Star Wars. A great place to witness the northern lights.

Nesjavellir, 801 Selfoss $$$$ EYJA GULDSMEDEN HOTEL This 65-room, eco-conscious hotel in downtown Reykjavík offers beautifully designed, bright-but-cozy rooms, many

with views across the city to Mount Esja.

Brautarholt 10, 105 Reykjavík $$$ FOSSHÓTEL REYKJAVÍK Large, family-friendly, 4-star hotel within a short walk of the city center offers great views from the upper floors.

All properties in the Fosshótel chain adhere to the highest environmental standards. Þórunnartún 1, 105 Reykjavík $$$

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INTO THE VOLCANO: Thrihnukagigur magma chamber PHOTO: © SERGEMI | DREAMSTIME.COM

DINING

JAMIE’S ITALIAN Pizza and pasta are the staples of this restaurant, carrying the signature of British celebrity chef Jamie Oliver. The restaurant operates a policy to eliminate single-use plastic.

Hótel Borg, Posthusstraeti 11, 101 Reykjavík $$$ THE LAUNDROMAT CAFÉ Enjoy the fun and quirky décor and simple wholesome food; a great place for a burger or sandwich.

This being Iceland, fresh fish features on the menu, especially cod and salmon.

Austurstraeti 9, 101 Reykjavík $$$ GLÓ Four outlets in Reykjavík offer healthy organic dishes, primarily vegetarian and vegan. There is usually at least one chicken dish on the daily menu to cater to meat-eaters.

Laugavegur 20b, 101 Reykjavík (and other locations) $$$

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of boiling water up to 130 feet in the air. The nearby Great Geysir is much less predictable, erupting to more than 200 feet two or three times a day. As with the Blue Lagoon, the sensations are enhanced in winter, when clouds of steam magnify each eruption in the freezing air.

As you’d expect in such a rugged landscape, Iceland has an abundance of waterfalls. The greatest of them all, Gullfoss, is easily combined with a visit to the geysers. In winter the 100-foot waterfall is often partially frozen, which makes for haunting photography. But this is one attraction best experienced in summer, in full flow, when the falling water is thunderous, throwing up clouds of spray.

Summer also provides the best time to go whale-watching, departing on one of the regular tours out of Reykjavík’s old harbor. The viewing success rate is 90 percent in the warm months, with free repeat tour vouchers given if no whales are seen. Common species include humpback and minke whales and white-beaked dolphins.

The average whale-watching voyage lasts around three hours.

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Of all the island’s natural wonders, the most dominant are its many active volcanoes. They cast a shadow over life here. When a major eruption occurs, day can become night, lava flows threaten roads and communities and international flights are disrupted. There is no timetable; eruptions can occur at any time, though usually volcanologists can provide a few days’ warning.

The legacy of all this volcanic activity is Iceland itself. Violent eruptions made — and continue to alter — the island’s incredible landscape. For the ultimate Icelandic geological experience, what’s better than to go inside a volcano’s magma chamber?

This rare privilege is possible in the dormant Thrihnukagigur volcano, 30 minutes south of Reykjavík. The age minimum is 12, and a good head for heights is essential. In the course of the tour, visitors are lowered 400 feet by open elevator into the volcano’s crater; the careful descent takes six minutes. At the bottom, you gain a firsthand impression of the sheer size of the magma chamber and a vivid impression of the forces that drive a volcanic eruption.

INFO TO GO

International flights arrive at Keflavík International Airport (KEF), a former U.S. military World War II airbase, 31 miles southwest of Reykjavík. Book in advance online for the Airport Express shuttle bus to and from the city; the drive takes 35–45 minutes. Most domestic flights, and services to Greenland, operate out of Reykjavík Airport (RKV) close to downtown.

NEW NONSTOP

FROM DFW TO ICELAND Travel to the Land of Fire and Ice. Starting June 7, we’re taking you where the landscape sings and the Northern Lights shine.

Learn more on aa.com.

American Airlines and the Flight Symbol logo are marks of American Airlines, Inc. oneworld is a mark of the oneworld Alliance, LLC. © 2018 American Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved.

bucket list | GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS

Close Encounters Gear up for the ultimate photo op with rare beasts in the Galápagos Islands. BY DALE LEATHERMAN

ANIMAL KINGDOM: (Left to right, top to bottom) Red-sand beach on Rábida, blue-footed booby with babies, frigate bird, Galápagos fur seal, and marine iguana PHOTOS: © DONNELLE OXLEY

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LET ME SAY THIS UP FRONT: If you are fascinated by critters of all kinds, a trip to the Galápagos Islands will exceed your wildest dreams. There is no way to mentally prepare for your first close encounter with creatures that exhibit no fear or hostility. It’s almost like being invisible — but not really. They are aware of you. Some are curious, but most are more interested in their own daily affairs — feeding, resting, raising their young or attracting the opposite sex.

It’s an extraordinary adventure, and you’ll want to return with more than memories and souvenirs. Photography will allow you to capture magical moments you can relive and share with friends. Oddly enough, I have seen travelers on trips like this armed only with cheap disposable cameras. More on camera APRIL 2018

gear later. First, the destination.

The Galápagos archipelago — 19 islands ranging in size from small atolls to the 1,771-square-mile Isabela — straddles the equator 600 miles off the west coast of South America. Experts theorize the islands broke away from the mainland, carrying with them mammals, reptiles, birds and plants that adapted to the islands’ diverse environments and now exist nowhere else in the world. Other than the Galápagos hawk, there are no predators — though humans have always posed a danger. Crews from sailing ships used to stack live giant tortoises in their holds for food and slaughter seals for their fur.

Profoundly moved by a Galápagos visit in 1835, British naturalist Charles Darwin began to ponder evolution. Fortunately,

CREATURES GREAT AND SMALL: (Left to right, top to bottom) Galápagos sea lion, albatross, land iguana, and Galápagos turtle PHOTOS: © DONNELLE OXLEY

INFO TO GO

Ecuador recognized the natural treasure lying off its shores and declared the region a national park in 1959. Since then, the government controlled human habitation and visitation and worked to remove non-endemic species such as goats and rats.

The Fausto Llerena Tortoise Center at the Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz raises giant tortoises to bolster populations on several islands. Today, most visitors experience the islands as Darwin did, by boat. Vessels are limited to 110 passengers, who disembark in small groups to walk on marked paths, maintaining a six-foot distance from any critters.

And oh, the creatures you’ll see! Boobies with feet of red, black and teal blue perform mating dances while ebony frigate birds inflate huge scarlet throat bladders to attract the opposite sex. Sea lions bask on beaches, nursing their babies, and iguanas (marine and land) sun themselves on rocks. Colorful crabs linger at the surf ’s edge, and birds — including the many varieties of Darwin’s finches — twitter from gnarly trees. You’ll encounter playful young sea lions again while snorkeling or scuba diving, along with sea turtles, sharks and cute Galápagos penguins. The islands themselves are varied, ranging from the

jade-green beaches of Floreana to the volcanic moonscape of Bartolomé and the red sand and ancient cacti forest of Rábida.

There is a 44-pound luggage weight restriction on flights to the Galápagos, so pack wisely: quick-drying shorts and shirts you can wash out in your shower, one pair of lightweight long pants, a light rain jacket, a fleece or sweatshirt, Teva-style sandals, bathing suit, hat, sunscreen, insect repellent — and a money belt for passport, credit cards and cash.

For peace of mind, take two digital cameras with zoom lenses (18–270mm, for instance) that you can shoot without a tripod, and a waterproof point-and-shoot for snorkeling. Pack manuals for cameras, chargers, extra batteries and memory cards — and a small laptop for downloading images. Add a backpack to hold gear during “wet landings” from inflatable boats and hiking. Include a couple of plastic bags to protect cameras from sudden rain showers. Flash photography is not allowed, so be sure you know how to turn it off.

Needless to say, obey all park rules, take nothing but pictures and leave nothing but footprints.

Bring cash (the U.S. dollar is the official currency).

Not only will you need to tip the crew of your ship, you’ll need cash to enter the islands. Flights to the Galápagos depart from Guayaquil (GYE), including connections from Quito (UIO). When you arrive at either airport on mainland Ecuador, the Galápagos Biosecurity Agency will inspect your bag and issue you a $20 mandatory tourist transit card. Be prepared to show the card, your return air ticket and your hotel or cruise reservation.

(This requirement became law in 2017 but was not enforced.) From Guayaquil, it’s a 90-minute flight to the islands of Baltra or San Cristóbal. There you will pay a $100 ($50 for children) entrance fee, in cash, to the Galápagos National Park. For details on park rules, weather and seasonal animal activities, visit the Galapagos Conservancy website (galapagos.org).

good sa i e tim the Any o visit tour t ut time agos, b der si a'p Gal ors con at nd oper May a l i Apr mberte low Sep er the b o Oct , so it’s e or on s sea le to sc t a ib poss n fares i a g bar ime. t that

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kicking back | AZORES

Earthly Delights Bask in the lush, dramatic vistas of Portugal's Azores.

BY CHADNER NAVARRO

“I ALWAYS SAY THAT WHEN YOU DRIVE through the highways of São Miguel, it’s like driving through a garden,” said Rui Medeiros, my guide from Sagres Vacations, a bespoke tour operator to Portugal. Rui was leading me through the São Miguel portion of my trip to the Azores. At this point of my Atlantic adventure, Rui drove our group to Sete Cidades, one of the island’s truly otherworldly destinations. On our way, bouquets of hydrangeas (blues, pinks, purples) still blooming in the middle of November flanked the road. Even Rui was flummoxed by how vibrant they looked despite winter looming just weeks away. Apparently in the Azores, gardens flourish well after you expect.

The Azores archipelago comprises nine volcanic islands in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, about 900 miles from mainland Portugal, the country colonizing here in the 15th century. But if you’ve also been to the Continent (as the Azoreans refer to the mainland), the Azores will feel, look and smell as if there’s much more than 900 miles separating them. Arriving at Sete Cidades makes this abundantly

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clear. A three-mile-wide caldera, Sete Cidades is impossibly lush, exciting in its wildness and offering just the right amount of whimsy, courtesy of a legend that explains why its twin lakes glow with two different colors.

It’s been said the waters of the lakes were formed by the tears of star-crossed lovers: An Azorean princess, whose father forbade her marriage to a young shepherd, formed the green lake because of her green eyes, while the shepherd’s blue eyes were to thank for the blue lake.

It’s a lot of romance for a place that seems more rugged than romantic, but from a roadside viewing point at the top of the caldera — where I observed the two lakes surrounded by verdant cliffs and a smattering of hillside villages, with just enough fog hanging overhead to add a layer of mystery to the moment — I wanted to believe that fairy tale. The blue lake reflected the clouds while the green, farther from where I stood, appeared darker and more enigmatic. I wanted to believe because something so captivatingly beautiful should have a dramatic creation story to match.

But everywhere you go in the Azores you encounter drama. On São Miguel, known among the nine as the green island (and the collection’s largest), the craggy, un-

THE GOOD EARTH:

(Left to right) Hydrangeas bordering the volcanic crater lake road in Sete Citades, São Miguel; the lakes in Sete Cidades viewed from Vista do Rei; and geothermal hot water hole in Furnas PHOTOS: © RECHITAN SORIN | DREAMSTIME .COM, © PERE SANZ | DREAMSTIME.COM, © PAOP | DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING OCEAN BREEZE Modest but charming accommodations with fantastic ocean views, these vacation rentals, unveiled last December, feature stacked volcanic rocks, Pico’s trademark architecture.

Cais de Mourato, Madalena, Pico $$

expected landscape provides a lot of surprises, and looking at it from afar isn’t enough to truly understand just how special it is. In Furnas, known for its sulfuric hot springs, the top of Pico do Ferro provides another gorgeous vista. Rui gave me the option of a comfortable drive down to the village, where we could find a local restaurant for lunch. I opted to hike down and work for my meal instead. It rained that morning, so the mile or so walk, not exceptionally difficult, was muddy.

Under a canopy of all sorts of flora (from fern to cheesewood), the hike was humid but thankfully downhill. While the views were stunning — the lake from various angles and small farms grazed by black-and-white cows — the best part of the hike was feeling the earth under my feet and being enveloped by the foliage.

I smelled the end of the hike before I actually reached it, as the base of this small mountain is packed with hot spring action. Many of the tourists crowd around the thermal activity not just to see the ground bubbling with scalding water but also to watch locals pull that day’s lunch out of the ground.

Cozido das furnas is one of the Azores’ culinary icons: Locals pack a stew of meats and veggies in a pot and stuff it in the ground, where volcanic heat cooks it for hours. Throughout the day, many of the nearby restaurants return to collect their

dishes. If you’re keen on trying it, almost every eatery in the area serves a cozido. It’s a fortifying meal (with beef, chicken, pork, blood sausage and potatoes) — one I certainly deserved after my 45-minute hike.

If São Miguel is the green island, Pico, the archipelago’s second-largest, is the black island, thanks to the volcanic rock that characterizes its coasts and architecture. The island is known for the mountain (also called Pico) at its center, the tallest peak in all of Portugal and a popular hike to conquer.

The 3,700-foot-high trek usually requires a full day to complete, and most thrill seekers start their hike in the middle of the night (around 2 a.m.) in order to reach the summit in time for sunrise. Others time their hike in the evening for sunset, camp out on the mountain and descend in the morning.

Unfortunately, during the two days I spent on Pico, rainy, foggy weather made hiking unsafe. But there’s still plenty to do on the island.

Decades ago, Pico was home to a massive whaling community, and Museu dos Baleeiros in Lajes does a thorough job showcasing this history. The exhibit includes a typical Azorean whaling boat, pictures of the men who played major roles in the industry (my guide, Evelina Garcia, also with Sagres Vacations, grew up in Pico and recognizes many of

SANTA BÁRBARA ECOBEACH RESORT Located on the north side of São Miguel near some of the island’s best surfing, this stylish resort of 14 low-lying villas is rumored to expand later this summer.

Estrada Regional nº1, 1º Morro de Baixo, Ribeira Grande, São Miguel $$ WHITE EXCLUSIVE SUITES AND VILLAS Comprising nine suites and one villa, all inspired by Santoríni’s iconic minimalism, this brand-new cliffside property on São Miguel’s southern coast makes the perfect retreat for traveling couples.

Rua Rocha Quebrada 10, Lagoa, São Miguel $$$$

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WINE AND DINE:

Vineyard stone corrals on Pico, built to protect the grapes from wind and sea salt, earned UNESCO World Heritage status (top); and cozido das furnas, a local Azorean meal, is cooked underground by volcanic heat on São Miguel .

PHOTOS: © JAIME DEBRUM | DREAMSTIME.COM, © SERGEY MAYOROV | DREAMSTIME.COM

DINING

CALÇADA DO CAIS A menu of Portuguese dishes (garlicky poultry sausages, crusted cod with herb butter sauce) and more familiar plates (tomahawk steak, mushroom risotto) ensures there’s something for everyone at this proven crowd pleaser.

INFO TO GO

Travel to the Azores from the United States directly from Boston (BOS) with Azores Airlines, which gets you to the island of São Miguel in about four hours. The airline recently introduced new planes outfitted with upgraded business-class cabins and WiFi. At the end of May 2018, Delta Air Lines will offer direct service to São Miguel from New York (JFK).

Once in the Azores, access to the other islands (by plane) is easy. Or fly through mainland Portugal from cities like Lisbon (LIS) and Porto (OPO) on TAP Air Portugal. From the airport in Ponta Delgada, São Miguel, a taxi to many of the area’s hotels starts at just €10 (about $12) but can go up depending on the time of day.

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them from her childhood) and decorative artwork fashioned out of carved whale bone. Winemaking also thrives on Pico, with a 2,440-acre UNESCO World Heritage vineyard landscape, thanks to its unique terroir of volcanic rocks. Winemakers created their vineyards with semicircle enclosures of stark, black rocks to protect the grapes from the elements. You can walk through these vineyards, which I did, to get a feel for the unusual topography. It’s unlike any wine country you’ll ever visit.

If you want to visit a winery and taste some of the island’s prized grapes, make an appointment at Adega A Buraca, a family-owned production. The site also acts as a museum, packed with some of the artisan tools used all over Pico, whether in winemaking, agriculture or home life.

The family also makes schnapps-like liqueurs out of the fruits and vegetables grown on the island, but I was there for wine. The fortified Verdelho, comparative to Port, is a must-try, but my favorite is a fabulous white wine called Cacarita, refreshing but flavorful. It was just the right souvenir for family and friends and also a perfect reminder of my trip to the Azores.

Rua dos Mercadores 27 31, Ponta Delgada, São Miguel $$ O ANCORADOURO A cataplana of local seafood (including lapas) paired with a crisp white wine from the volcanic vineyards of Pico ranks among the most delicious meals you can enjoy on the island.

Estrada Longitudinal, Areia Larga, Madalena, Pico $$ TASQUINHA VIEIRA This new restaurant in downtown Ponta Delgada boasts design-forward interiors and chef-owner Joel Vieira’s elegant and globally inspired preparations of Azorean ingredients.

Rua António Joaquim Nunes da Silva 21, Ponta Delgada, São Miguel $$$

STAND UP FOR US ALL Clinical trials bring us closer to the day when all cancer patients can become survivors.

Clinical trials are an essential path to progress and the brightest torch researchers have to light their way to better treatments. That’s because clinical trials allow researchers to test cutting-edge and potentially life-saving treatments while giving participants access to the best options available.

If you’re interested in exploring new treatment options that may also light the path to better treatments for other patients, a clinical trial may be the right option for you.

Speak with your doctor and visit StandUpToCancer.org/ClinicalTrials to learn more.

Sonequa Martin-Green, SU2C Ambassador Photo Credit: Matt Sayles Stand Up To Cancer is a division of the Entertainment Industry Foundation, a 501(c)(3) charitable organization.

lgbtq

It’s Only Natural Eco-friendly tours offer a beautiful option for LGBTQ travelers. BY MARK CHESNUT

AS MORE ATTENTION focuses on the need to protect, preserve and learn about the environment, the popularity of ecotourism — travel that highlights conservation, nature and sustainable practices — has grown. And that goes for LGBTQ travelers, too.

The options for LGBTQ travelers looking to explore the natural world in a gay-friendly atmosphere are surprisingly diverse. In South America, for example, lesbian-owned Brazil Ecojourneys offered sustainable and LGBTQ-friendly tours since 2003. Among its active adventures, wildlife watching in Pantanal includes visits to the largest wetlands in South America, with a two-night stay at a lodge and the possibility of spotting jaguars. The itinerary also features a visit to the town of Bonito, where participants can glide along rivers home to abundant marine life.

Also lesbian-owned — and equally well-established — is EcoCircuitos, a Panama City, Panama-based tour operator offering a full menu of group and individual ecotourism options for travelers of all orientations. Excursions range from one-day bird-watching outings to four-day treks along the famed Camino Real and a 14-day biodiversity tour that focuses on the Central American nation’s rich natural history.

Farther south, Out Adventures offers an Antarctica Gay Expedition with plenty of time for education about the environment and local wildlife, thanks also to the help of onboard lectures and expert guides. Penguins, seals and whales are just a few of the animals visitors can spot on this itinerary, which starts and ends in Ushuaia, Argentina.

Africa makes another natural choice for nature lovers and ecotourism, thanks to its legendary flora and fauna. Detours Travel is among the companies with a South Africa itinerary that includes an expert-guided visit to Kruger National Park, where visitors learn about wildlife while keeping their eyes open for lions, rhinos, giraffes, zebras, cheetahs, elephants, hippos and leopards. South Africa also features as a destination for a company called Out 2 Africa, which specializes solely in LGBTQ travel to southern Africa. The operator also fields group excursions to Botswana, with stays in a gay-friendly lodge at Chobe National Park, the nation’s secondlargest game reserve and home to what’s described as the world’s largest elephant population.

Also ideal for LGBTQ nature lovers is famously gay-friendly Australia.

Venture Out offers a 12-day Alternative Oz tour that focuses on lesserknown areas of this gay-popular destination, including the Australian Outback and the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park, where exotic plants and animals provide great opportunities for education and photos.

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FOR NATURE LOVERS:

Contadora Island, Panama (top); EcoCircuitos Panama tour (middle); and caiman in Panama on Brazil Ecojourneys tour (bottom) PHOTOS: © ECOCIRCUITOS, © BRAZIL ECOJOURNEYS

2018 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

AIRLINE BEST

Overall Best Airline in the World ____________________________________________________ Airline Alliance _______________________________________________________________________ Aircraft Type ________________________________________________________________________ Airline Website ______________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing Airline – Trans-Pacific _____________________________________________ Best Airline for . . .

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International Hotel Chain _________________________________________________________ Domestic Hotel Chain _____________________________________________________________ Lifestyle Hotel _____________________________________________________________________ MICE Hotel ________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) Hotel Club Floor ___________________________________________________________________ Hotel Website _____________________________________________________________________ New Luxury Hotel in Asia _________________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Stay Programs Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World __________________________________ Elite-Level Program ___________________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion ____________________________________________________________ Award Redemption ___________________________________________________________ Customer Service_____________________________________________________________

HOTEL BEST BY LOCATION Best Hotel in . . .

Asia ___________________________________________________________________________ Europe ________________________________________________________________________ South Korea __________________________________________________________________ The Middle East ______________________________________________________________ The United States ____________________________________________________________ Best Hotel Chain in . . .

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PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO: Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot Name Street Address City Home Phone

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airport update

Poised for Growth Toronto Pearson improves the passenger experience while planning for the future. BY NICOLE QUASTÉ THE LARGEST CITY IN CANADA, Toronto is a lively, cosmopolitan center of business, finance, arts and culture. Located only 14 miles from its center — home to landmarks like the CN Tower, Casa Loma and The Royal Ontario Museum — is Toronto Pearson International, Canada’s largest and busiest airport.

More than 75 airlines operate 1,100 departures daily from Pearson to more than 180 destinations across all six inhabited continents. The North American hub saw more than 44 million passengers in 2016 alone and expects to handle around 85 million annually by the mid 2020s.

A main hub for Air Canada, Pearson operates via two public terminals, both designed to handle domestic, transborder and international flights, so terminal operations are grouped for airlines and alliances rather than domestic and international routes.

The airport’s Terminal 1, home to Air Canada and all other Star Alliance members, is among the largest buildings in the world by floor space. Terminal 3 is used by all SkyTeam and oneworld airlines.

In addition to terminals 1 and 3, the Infield Terminal, originally opened in 2002 but currently is inactive. In 2015 it was upgraded and reopened to accommodate Syrian refugees and also frequently serves as a film location for major motion pictures and TV shows.

Pearson is not only a leading airport worldwide at this time but is poised and prepared for future growth as well — something many airports cannot say. Though the Infield Terminal is seldom used, plans are in place to reactivate it to accommodate seasonal or overflow demand or to provide additional capacity during future terminal construction. Last February the Greater Toronto Airports Authority proposed a brand-new transit hub be located across from Terminal 3.

Currently the Union Pearson Express offers the only airport rail link between the airport and Union Station in Downtown Toronto.

The new transit hub will offer passengers several new options from the airport to reach different destinations in Toronto as well as the Greater Toronto area and Southern Ontario. The proposal includes convenient connections via the UP Express, GO’s Regional Express Rail and Line 5 Eglinton LRT. The project will also eventually remove the current LINK Train operating between terminals in favor of bridges. Global architecture and design firm HOK was chosen to design the transit center, and the first phase of the new facility could be in place as early as the mid-2020s.

While the planning process is ongoing for the transit center, several new customer-friendly airport additions are up and running.

In December Air Canada unveiled a new Signature Suite lounge in Terminal 1 for business-class passengers on long-haul international flights, offering a complimentary, full-service bistro restaurant with a menu devised by Vancouver-based chef David Hawksworth. In

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February ParkCloud made its first foray into Canada with its launch at Pearson, offering travelers a convenient online parking reservation option. Passengers parking in the airport’s self-park covered garages at both terminals 1 and 3 can now reserve spaces before they travel, with 24-hour access and electric vehicle charging.

Speaking of customer satisfaction: In recent years airport management opened 95 new retail, food and beverage locations to improve the overall airport experience for travelers, even partnering with prominent chefs including Toronto’s Susur Lee and Zane Caplansky. One of the most popular new venues opened recently is Smoke’s Poutinerie food truck in Terminal 3. That’s right, a food truck in an airport.

In January travel retail company Paradies Lagardere partnered with TripAdvisor to launch a new travel essentials store in Terminal 1. Shoppers can browse the latest travel products as well as TripAdvisor’s latest reviews for nearby hotels, attractions and more.

As for nearby hotels, Embassy Suites by Hilton opened a new property within one mile of the airport in February following the completion of $14.5 million in renovation work. Guest amenities include WiFi, 24-hour fitness and business centers, a parking garage and complimentary airport shuttle.

By continuing to offer exciting and innovative retail, food and beverage options; new routes; modern facilities; and convenient transit options, Pearson will only further improve its already reputable position as a world-leading airport.

“The success of Toronto Pearson as one of the world’s most significant international airports is a testament to the success of Canada and the Toronto region,” said Howard Eng, president and CEO, GTAA.

SOARING SUCCESS: Terminal 1 at Toronto Pearson International Airport

PHOTO: © SHAWNGOLDBERG | DREAMSTIME.COM

TORONTO PEARSON INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT torontopearson.com

health

Ground Rules Learn tips to navigate the TSA checkpoint with a medical disability, condition or device.

BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, MSN, RN, CCRN

TO ENSURE OUR SECURITY, all travelers are required to undergo Transportation Security Administration screening at the airport checkpoint.

Screening is intended to prevent prohibited items and other threats to transportation security from entering the sterile area of the airport and are developed in response to information on threats.

TSA uses unpredictable security measures throughout the airport, and no individual, including those with medical conditions, is guaranteed expedited screening.

Standard screening requires passengers to remove all items and place them on the X-ray belt.

However, passengers with TSA PreCheck can usually speed through security without needing to remove shoes, laptops, liquids, belts and light jackets. You can apply online and then schedule an appointment at any of 380-plus enrollment centers for a 10-minute, in-person background check and finger printing. Then just add your KTN or PassID to your ticket.

If you are approved for TSA PreCheck, you will undergo screening by technology or a patdown. TSA officers may swab your hands, mobility aids, equipment or other external devices to test for explosives.

In 2017 the TSA introduced a notification card for people with disabilities so they can confidently communicate their needs to a TSA officer.

Travelers apply for the card and bring it with them to the security checkpoint. The cards have a space to enter information about relevant health conditions, disabilities or medical devices. Having this card does not exempt you from screening.

You may provide the officer with the TSA notification card or other medical documentation from your physician on the physician’s letterhead to describe your condition. Those with a disability or medical condition are not required to remove their shoes, but the shoes must undergo

additional screening including visual/physical inspection and explosives trace detection. You can request to be seated during this procedure.

Inform the TSA officer of your ability to stand or walk independently. If you can stand with your arms above your head for five to seven seconds without support, you may undergo screening from advanced imaging technology or walk through a metal detector if you are able to walk through without support.

Walkers, crutches, canes and other mobility aids must undergo X-ray screening. A TSA officer will inspect the item if it cannot fit through the X-ray machine. Let the TSA officer know you will need the device immediately after it is screened. Wheelchairs and scooters are screened and tested for traces of explosives; screening includes seat cushions and all removable and non-removable items.

If you cannot walk or stand, you will undergo a pat-down screening while seated. If you can stand but not walk, you can stand near the wheelchair during a pat-down. A pat-down screening is also used if alarms sound on the metal detector or image technology.

Inform the TSA officer if you have an artificial knee or hip or other metal implants such as a pacemaker or defibrillator. Check with your physician prior to flying. You will need the TSA notification card or medical documentation to describe your condition. You will not go through the metal detector, and if you choose not to go through the advanced imaging technology, you will undergo a pat-down.

Before screening, inform the TSA officer if you have a bone growth stimulator, spinal stimulator, neuro-stimulator, port, feeding tube, insulin pump, ostomy or other medical device attached to your body and where it is located.

Submit the device for X-ray if you can safely

disconnect it. Consult with the manufacturer to determine if it can pass through the X-ray, metal detector or advanced imaging technology. If you cannot disconnect from the device, it may require additional screening; devices located in sensitive areas are subject to careful and gentle inspection.

If you have an ostomy, you can be screened without having to empty or expose it through advanced imaging technology, metal detector or a pat-down. The ostomy pouch is subject to additional screening and may require you to do a self pat-down of the pouch outside your clothing, followed by a test of your hands for trace of explosives. You may also undergo a pat-down of areas that do not include your ostomy pouch.

You may encounter screening inconsistencies among U.S. airports. The rules are the same everywhere for travelers and TSA enforcement; however, sometimes the officer does not understand the rules. The best thing to do is to cooperate and, if possible, throw the object in question into the trash can. The important thing is to know the rules and follow them. If challenged by the TSA, understand why and cooperate. It’s all about your safety and that of other passengers.

For assistance, compliments or complaints contact TSA Cares at 1 855 787 2227, weekdays 8 a.m.–11 p.m. Eastern Time; or email TSA-ContactCenter@tsa.dhs.gov weekends and holidays, 9 a.m.–8 p.m. Automated information is offered in 12 languages. Call 72 hours prior to traveling to request assistance of a Passenger Support Specialist at the checkpoint. If a PSS is not available, you may ask for a Supervisory TSA Officer at the checkpoint.

The TSA website at tsa.gov provides a blog discussing advances in security and innovation at airports worldwide, travel tips, a real ID section (as checkpoint ID requirements change) and a disabilities and medical conditions section.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.

Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

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past & present

Built at a cost of $3 million, The Ritz-Carlton, Montreal opened its doors Dec. 31, 1912. The top photos show the hotel in 1913 and today.

Beginning in the late 1940s, the lobby featured shining marble walls, elevator attendants and a large brass mailbox that remains to this day. The middle photos show the 1940s lobby, The Palm Court as it appeared in 1953 for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation celebration and as it looks today. The bottom photos show the Oval Room in the 1930s and today.

Many leading figures of the 20th century stayed at The Ritz-Carlton, Montreal, including Winston Churchill, Charles de Gaulle, Richard Nixon, George H.W. Bush, the Rolling Stones and Celine Dion.

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APRIL 2018

PHOTOS: Š THE RITZ- CARLTON, MONTREAL

The Ritz-Carlton, Montreal

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