GARETH PUGH S T O R E
O V E R V I E W
UNIVERSITY OF HUDDERSFIELD School of Art, Design and Architecture Department of Design
Gareth Pugh Store Overview
ASHLEY JADE ASHCROFT
A Major Project submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for
BA (Hons) Fashion, Communication and Promotion.
Module THD1101 Fashion Communication Promotion Major Project
The candidate confirms that the work submitted is their own and that appropriate credit has been given where reference has been made to the work of others.
The University of Huddersfield School of Art & Design Department of Design Huddersfield West Yorkshire ENGLAND
16th MAY 2014
F I G U R E S
FIG 1 : BIRDS EYE VIEW OF LOCATION ON CONDUIT STREET FIG 2 : GARETH PUGH STORE STREET VIEW FIG 3 : FIRST FLOOR, FLOOR PLAN OUTLINE FIG 4 : SECOND FLOOR, FLOOR PLAN OUTLINE FIG 5 : STORE INTENT, CONCEPT MOOD BOARD FIG 6 : FIRST FLOOR RETAIL, FRONT BIRS EYE VIEW FIG 7 : FIRST FLOOR RETAIL, BACK BIRDS EYE VIEW FIG 8 : FIRST FLOOR RETAIL, TILL AREA VIEW FIG 9 : FIRST FLOOR RETAIL, HUMAN EYE VIEW FIG 10 : FIRST FLOOR RETAIL, HUMAN EYE VIEW LED SCREEN FIG 11 : FIRST FLOOR RETAIL, BIRS EYE VIEW FITTING ROOM AND STAIRS FIG 12 : FIRST FLOOR RETAIL, BIRS EYE VIEW FITTING ROOM FIG 13 : FIRST FLOOR RETAIL, HUMAN EYE VIEW OF FITTING ROOMS FIG 14 : SECOND FLOOR RETAIL, BIRS EYE VIEW FIG 15 : SECOND FLOOR RETAIL, HUMAN EYE VIEW FROM BACK FIG 16 : SECOND FLOOR RETAIL, HUMAN EYE VIEW FROM STAIR ENTRANCE FIG 17 : SECOND FLOOR RETAIL, HUMAN EYE VIEW OF WALL CLOTHING DISPLAY FIG 18 : SECOND FLOOR STAFFING AREA AND OFFICE
CONTENTS 1.0 INTRODUCTION ................................................3 1.1
Aim and objectives
2.0 BACKGROUND ..................................................5 2.1
Stockist
3.0 THE PROPOSED STORE .........................................9 3.1
Location and rationale
3.2
Floor Plans
3.3
Design intent
4.0 RETAIL FLOORS.................................................17 4.1
Fixtures and fittings
4.2
First floor
4.1.1 Fitting Rooms
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4.3
Second Floor
4.4
Retail Floor Visuals
5.0 STORE EXPERIENCE ............................................33 5.1
Visual Merchandising
5.2
Window Display
5.3
Music and video
5.4
Customer Service
5.5
Consumer Jouney
6.0 STAFFING ........................................................37 6.1
Recommended staffing
6.2
Uniform
6.3
Staff room
7.0 CONCLUSION ....................................................43 8.0 REFERENCES ....................................................45
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1.0 INTRODUCTION...
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Gareth Pugh is a British fashion designer based in London, but he currently has no UK store to represent the brand. The store has been proposed as part of a multichannel strategy that aims to encourage the brands development as it marks ten years.
The store will be essential to the brands progression, as it will channel the brands identity and luxury positioning. It will build on the brands UK presences by being positioned in a luxury area that will reflect the brands status.
The design and locations will ensure the brand maintains a competitive edge. Furthermore, to ensure the success of the store marketing tactics have been outlined within the marketing plan to drive awareness.
The main purpose of this document is to explore the plans for Gareth Pugh’s first UK flagship store.
1.1 AIM AND OBJECTIVES
AIM
To create a store that offers a distinctive and immersive experience, with a concept representative of the brands aesthetics, further reinforcing the brands status by positioning the store in a luxury area.
OBJECTIVE
• To design a store concept cohesive with the Gareth Pugh Hong Kong Boutique, to ensure a strong brand identity. • To create unique brand experience • To place the store in luxury area that will amplify the luxury status of the brand and create awareness.
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2.0 BACKGROUND
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Gareth Pugh surprisingly only has one existing Boutique store, in association with the IT group in Hong Kong. The brands association with the IT group means that Gareth Pugh is exclusively sold through them, and the brand is no longer available at other retailers in Hong Kong.
The store is currently placed on Ice Street, within the central area of Hong Kong; it is placed next to other avant-garde peers Like Ann Demeulemeester, Comme des Garcon, Martin Margiela, And Gucci. Gareth Pugh was quoted saying: “I like that Gucci is around the corner and Hermes across the road…it creates a sense of luxury around the brand”, this emphasises the brands need for a positioning within a elite area, a area which can highlight and bring attention to the brands luxury status.
The brands store in Hong Kong is relatively small, however the innovative and unconventional design makes use of the space by creating optical Illusions through different materials. The walls and ceiling are paved in black-mirrored glass to reflect the video that is being played on the large LED screen, making the store appear a lot larger than it is. To summaries the design of the store it is both hard and shiny.
Majority of Gareth Pugh’s competitors have at least one store in the country in which they are from, Gareth Pugh does not. By launching a store in London Gareth Pugh can focus on channelling the brands British Heritage.
In order to successfully launch the brands first UK flagship it is essential for the store to be positioned in a luxury area, taking into account the competitors in the area and how they communicate their brand. The store must create a cohesive brand identity interconnecting the brands core values and aesthetics, which are creativity, Innovation, surreal, dark, ethereal and unconventional.
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Key characteristics of the brands first store that must be included in the flagship to create a cohesive brand identity are:
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A black interior theme
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The digital LED screen
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Reflective surfaces
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And the padded white changing rooms
By incorporating these features within the new store it will ensure the brand is represented seamlessly.
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2.1 UK PRESENCE Gareth Pugh is stocked worldwide in select stores that represent the brands luxury status, for example Collette in Paris, Seven in New York and DAAD-Dantone in Milan, each of these are all highly regarded boutique stores with a unique character and retail setting.
This is the same within the UK; Gareth Pugh upholds the brands exclusivity by only stocking in key stores in London, some of which are the most renowned boutique stores in the city, Including:
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Dover Street Market
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Layers
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Browns
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Selfridges
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127 Brick Lane
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Harvey Nichols
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LN-CC
These stores allow Gareth Pugh to effectively reach his target consumer, plus a wider demographic, however, being stocked in boutique and department stores means that there is limited control over the brand. Products can become lost in the environment amongst their competitors, which can cause the brand to lose personality and a sense of its identity.
The plan is not to take the Gareth Pugh out of these stores; the plan is to build on them creating a strong more identifiable brand within the UK luxury market that will allow the brand to standout from its competitors.
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3.0 THE PROPOSED STORE
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3.1 LOCATION AND RATIONALE As a retail destination, London ranks number one in Europe, with the most international brands compared to fifty-five other leading European countries (Jones Lang Laselle, 2012), which justifies the brands need for a store within the city. 12-13 Conduit Street, London W1S 2XQ will be the location of Gareth Pugh’s first UK flagship store (see Fig 2), the street is currently a rising area within London’s luxury quarter.
London’s Luxury sector is currently surging and providing endless opportunities for retailers. The luxury area now represents 66% of retailers in the sector (drapers, 2012), demand is growing and new contiguous areas are emerging, now compromising 42 streets and arcades, including Conduit Street.
Some of the brands main competitors are also placed on the same street and in the surrounding area including: Yohji Yamamoto (next door), Issey Miyake (facing), Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and Dover Street Market which stocks more than one of Gareth Pugh’s competitors, including there own brand Comme des garcon. Martin Margiela is also situated on a connecting street, with further plans to open the brands M6 store at number 15 Conduit Street, next door to Gareth Pugh’s proposed store.
Further more, One of Gareth Pugh’s Stockist Layers, use to be located on Conduit Street No.16 (see fig 1), but moved to a smaller premise in 2013, which means that Gareth Pugh’s customers are already acquainted with the area.
By placing the store in a highly recognisable, yet not overly commercial luxury area that Gareth Pugh’s customers are already familiar with provides stability, as it is highly likely the brand will generate a vast amount of attention. This will allow the brand to communicate its luxury status and brand identity.
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FIG 1 : BIRDS EYE VIEW OF LOCATION ON CONDUIT STREET
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12-13. Conduit Street
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1 The Quarry, Betchworth, Surrey RH3 7BY T 01737 845580 F 01737 844748 E admin@sawkingsnorton.com W www.sawkingsnorton.com
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FIG 2 : GARETH PUGH STORE STREET VIEW
Location Plans
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The London Property Ptnshp Ltd.
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3.2 FLOOR PLANS Planning permission for the premises has already been granted to turn the buildings five stories into office and retail space, with lift access. Gareth Pugh will retain the first and second floor for the flagship store.
The two floors will be converted into suitable retail spaces. The first floor will house the women’s collections and back of house storage room(see fig 3), and the second floor will house the brands men’s collections, along with a suitable staffing, washroom and office space(see fig 4).
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STORAGE ROOM
2 CHANGING ROOMS
FIRST FLOOR
FIG 3 : FIRST FLOOR, FLOOR PLAN OUTLINE
OFFICE WASHROOM STAFF ROOM
SECOND FLOOR
FIG 4 : SECOND FLOOR, FLOOR PLAN OUTLINE
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3.3 DESIGN INTENT The design of the Gareth Pugh flagship intends to create an unparalleled store experience in the highly competitive luxury area. The design of the store will build on the brands key characteristics, making reference to the unconventional, dark, creative and ethereal brand aesthetics and core values that Gareth Pugh upholds.
The concept of the store will refer to the brands Hong Kong Boutique keeping note of the key black theme, keeping a cohesive brand identity (see fig 5). The stores enhanced black exterior and open plan windows will capture the attention of consumers, creating a strong brand presence in the area. The idiosyncratic theme will continue inside, paving the floor with black gloss tiles and use of contrasting materials creating an opulent retail environment that is distinctive to Gareth Pugh.
Black glass mirrored ceiling, gloss tiles and acrylic surfaces will reflect light around the store creating optical illusions and transforming the environment, adding depth to the rectangular outline and creating a more three-dimensional space. The limited colour scheme also allows guests to concentrate on their shopping experience, ensuring that their attention is focused on the products and luxury service that the brand provides.
The concept of the store will also compliment and adapt to each season, with the ability to change visuals through the LED screen that will project videos and imagery in store. The LED screen also provides the opportunity to promote the brands online presences, as all the videos and imagery in store can be found via the website. Creating a strong multichannel presence.
The store will play to the brands personality creating an environment where consumers can immerse themselves in a truly unique ethereal space, by stepping into the world of Gareth Pugh. The extraordinary and unconventional setting will create a memorable and lasting experience that will successful communicate the brands identity and luxury status.
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FIG 5 : STORE INTENT, CONCEPT MOOD BOARD
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4.0 RETAIL FLOORS
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4.1 FIXTURES AND FITTINGS The first floor retail space will feature a Large LED screen fitted to the back wall, which is one of the stores main focuses.
There are different size plinths and perimeter bays running consistently throughout the store, with light boxes to illuminate the clothing. The perimeter bays are set in the wall where as the rubber clad plinths can be moved to create a different floor setting, this is also convenient for any store events or future projects. The use of the extendable space will create a unique setting for any central installation, for new projects, exhibits or recent collections.
Concealed amongst the black glass mirrored ceiling lighting has been fitted, to illuminate the dark space. Modular seating will also be provided for customers, in order for them to bask in the ambiance whilst they shop. They can be moved throughout the store for convenience, joined or split (see fig 5).
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4.2 FIRST FLOOR The first floor provides a large open plan space used mainly for the womenswear collection. It is fitted with the portable rubber clad floor plinths and wall bays accompanied by lighting boxes to illuminate the clothing.
The current design of the retail setting places the floor plinths adjacent in the centre of the room directly in front of the wall screen, there are minimum fixtures so that the stores key feature (the screen) is not obstructed in anyway(see fig 10) . The aim of this is to direct and entice consumers on their entrance towards the centre of the room, and closer towards the large screen, which will submerse their minds in a surreal experience, allowing them to connect with the brand.
The sales counter is positioned to the left of the floor (see Fig 8,9); the till, packaging and other facilities will be concealed behind the counter away from sight. Seating also provides a comfortable area for customer to place their purchases with staff, via portable devises, if they wish to do so.
There are lift and stair access to second floor. The lifts are to the rear of the retail place behind a concealed wall and door entrance and the stairs are placed behind a wall partition to the right of the store, which guests can discover during their store experience.
4.2.1 FITTING ROOMS There will be two fitting rooms placed on the first floor, the fitting rooms are out of sight in the retail place and can be found towards the rear of the shop(see fig 11). They have been placed behind the back wall where the LED screen is. There is an entrance towards the right hand side of the retail space leading to the fitting rooms and second floor. The fitting rooms have been placed here to create a more private atmosphere away from the shopping space.
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The fitting rooms are in keeping with the Gareth Pugh brand, keeping with the same interior of the brands Hong Kong store, as it is a key feature, providing a strong brand identity. The fitting rooms resemble a cell like space upholstered in light grey triangular leather tiles, which will be a key feature throughout the brands stores (see fig 13). This provides a bright and clinical look that opposite to the retail space, the bright lighting also gives customers the ability to view and admire the garments in a different setting, allowing them to inspect the luxury craftsmanship that has gone in to each piece.
4.3 SECOND FLOOR The Second floor will hold Gareth Pugh’s men’s collections. The fixtures and fitting will be consistent with the first floor, with plinths and wall bays displaying the clothing (see Fig 14).
On entrance to the second floor there are small box plinths displaying accessory pieces. To the centre there is larger plinths displaying larger key items that have a certain delicacies to them. Two walls will also be covered with clothing bays as well as a freestanding wall in the centre, were clothes will also be hung. Modular seating is also provided on this floor, ensuring the customers comfort when browsing(see fig 15,16).
The staff room and office area will also be on the second floor. The entrance is discretely positioned next to the lift.
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4.4 RETAIL FLOOR VISUALS
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FIG 6 : FIRST FLOOR RETAIL, FRONT BIRS EYE VIEW
FIG 7 : FIRST FLOOR RETAIL, BACK BIRS EYE VIEW
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FIG 8 : FIRST FLOOR RETAIL, TILL AREA VIEW
FIG 9 : FIRST FLOOR RETAIL, HUMAN EYE VIEW
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FIG 10 : FIRST FLOOR RETAIL, HUMAN EYE VIEW LED SCREEN
FIG 11 : FIRST FLOOR RETAIL, BIRS EYE VIEW CHANGING ROOM AND STAIRS
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FIG 12 : FIRST FLOOR RETAIL, BIRS EYE VIEW CHANGING ROOM
FIG 13 : FIRST FLOOR RETAIL, HUMAN EYE VIEW OF FITTING ROOMS
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FIG 14 : SECOND FLOOR RETAIL, BIRS EYE VIEW
FIG 15 : SECOND FLOOR RETAIL, HUMAN EYE VIEW FROM BACK
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FIG 16 : SECOND FLOOR RETAIL, HUMAN EYE VIEW FROM STAIR ENTRANCE
FIG 17 : SECOND FLOOR RETAIL, HUMAN EYE VIEW OF WALL CLOTHING DISPLAY
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5.0 STORE EXPERIENCE
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5.1 VISUAL MERCHANDISING It is important to keep the visual merchandising the same throughout stores, to build a strong representation of the brand. General merchandising will display a limited amount stock precisely one of each size. For women four sizes will be on display (6, 8, 10, 12) and the same for the men (S, M, L, XL), bottom sizes may vary for both. This will create an exclusive feel around the product reflecting the luxury environment. Staff will continuously restock items whenever they are sold, to maintain the stores appearance.
Clothing will be merchandised according to style and paired with flattering pieces to form an outfit. The aim is to encouraging consumers with their purchasing decision, by introducing other pieces that may be of interest to them when styling an outfit. More delicate or key accessories pieces will be displayed on top of the light boxes to enhance the detail.
The spaces on the first floor allows for a more visually inspiring installation changing the theme season to season, there is a possibility of creating a isle in the centre of the floor, forming abstract displays that can constantly showcase the designers creative abilities.
5.2 WINDOW DISPLAY The windows have been structured to be as open as possible; this is so the unique interior is clearly visible from the outside. The black theme running throughout the interior also allows the LED screen to project through the store making it clearly visible from the outside. Due to the versatility of the screen this also means that the brand can showcase different videos and messages relevant to each season. There is potential for more focused window displays, however, this would take away from the brands key feature of the Large LED screen.
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5.3 MUSIC AND VIDEO Day to day the large Digital LED screen will play a variation of different Gareth Pugh videos, these can be regularly maintained and kept up to date, creating a changing environment that provides a constantly new visual experience. The video will showcase Gareth Pugh’s projects and fashion films and runway shows. Still Imagery can also be displayed on the large screen according to the type of project the brand is currently involved in.
A soundtrack may accompany the videos, ultimately creating a unique sensory experience. With still imagery light music will also be played in keeping with the environments ethereal atmospherics. All sound will be played at a moderate level so that it creates an unaware sense of feeling and mood in the store without distracting customers.
5.4 CUSTOMER SERVICE Customer service is key to creating a memorable experience. All staff will be experienced and trained in delivering the highest quality luxury customer service.
Every guest will be greeted on entrance in a polite manner, and each member of staff will acknowledge every guest when appropriate, offering friendly conversation, to ease their mood and to preventing any discomfort that can be perceived when visiting a luxury store. Each and every customer will be made to feel like an elite customer and will receive premium customer service.
All Staff will have a vast knowledge off all products in store, there will also be qualified consultants on hand for those who need extra guidance with there shopping. Guest will receive one to one service, allowing them to build a comfortable relationship with staff, which will encourage customer to return to the store. When the customer is making important purchasing decision or trying items on, they will also be offered a cold beverage, acquiring a more personal experience.
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When processing the transaction guest are also offered an alternative service at their convenience; if they do not wish to carry around their shopping they are given the option of having it delivered to them at a time that is appropriate. Extending the consumers luxury brand experience beyond the store environment.
5.5 CONSUMER JOURNEY The duration of the consumers’ journey will be anything from fifteen minutes to a possible one-hour and thirty minutes, when acquiring a personal shopping experience from staff.
The store design will intrigue and excite consumers; the large LED screen alone should increase the time spent in store, as it will continue to change providing consumers new visuals to absorb as they browse, extending there stay.
The journey will begin with the viewing of the video screen before consumers move on to look at the clothing and items displayed on the light boxes close to them. They will them beginning rotating the room before they discover the open entrance display more clothing on the back wall, which will entice them in. Inside they will discover the changing rooms and stairs leading up to the second floor, where the environment is more intimate.
The customer will have already encountered the fitting room, which they can make there way to. The fitting rooms will provide a complimentary feeling; there is an element of surprise in the contrasting crisp and light spacious rooms, compared to the overall black theme of the store.
Staff will guide consumers over to the till area to ensure they have had an enjoyable experience in store before they make there purchase. Leaving each consumer overly satisfied with the intention to return.
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6.0 STAFF
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6.1 RECOMMENDED STAFFING To maintain functionality of the store, certain staffing requirement need to be met. At least thirteen members’ of staff need to be considered to ensure the store runs effectively.
Position
Number of staff
Roles and responsibilities
Manager
1
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Up keeping and running of store
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Tracking of sales
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Recruitment and assessments
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Maintaining brand communication
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Store functions
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Customer service
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Assisting management
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Floor supervision
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Staff rotas
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Monitoring store standards
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Stock audits
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Deliveries
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Stock audits
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Maintain visual standards
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Customer service
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Sales
Assistant Manager
Full Time (40hrs)
1
2
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Visual Merchandiser (35hrs)
Sales consultants (35hrs)
Sales associate (15 - 20hrs)
Cleaners (1hr 30 each morning)
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1
2
4
2
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Maintaining Brand communication
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Merchandising
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Setting visual standards
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Maintaining store standards
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Driving new product sales
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Guiding employees on visual standards
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Customer service (exceptional)
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Driving Sales
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Advanced product knowledge
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Customer service
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Sales
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House keeping
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Keeping of store standards
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Providing a clean environment for staff and guests
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Cleaning and maintenance of whole store
All Staff will be a paid at competitive rate depending on skills and roles, a reflection of the luxury service they are required and expected to provide.
Cleaners will arrive every morning with full time members of staff before the store is open. Full time members of staff will focus on both upkeep of the store and customer service; they will ensure the store is fully stocked and to a luxury standard everyday for opening. Other members of staff will to a rotation table with at least one consultant and two sales associates working per day at all times, alongside full time staff.
All Members will be trained in delivering the highest possible customer service, which will remain a key focus everyday to ensure the luxury standard of the store.
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6.2 UNIFORM All staff will wear black smart semi-formal attire, with Gareth Pugh pieces styled to there own accord. Each member will have a strong sense of style and individuality, set to inspire customer. They will always be well presented and groomed to a high standard in keeping with the luxury environment.
6.3 STAFF ROOM The Staff room will be positioned on the second floor to the rear of the retail space. The entrance is next to the lift and out of site in the retail space (see fig 18).
The staff room will provide a relaxing and comfortable environment for employees, keeping the luxury theme running throughout the store. It will include a lounge area with seating and a TV, kitchen facilities and a washroom to the back. Staff will also have the security of being able to safely lock away any of their belongings whilst they are working.
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FIG 18 : SECOND FLOOR STAFFING AREA AND OFFICE
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7.0 CONCLUSION
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To conclude the store aims to create a unique and immersive store experience with the store design and concept making reference to the dark, ethereal and unconventional brand aesthetics and core vales, extracting elements from the brands Hong Kong Boutique to create a cohesive brand identity throughout stores.
The location of the store will amplify the brands luxury positioning, by placing it in a competitive luxury area that the brands consumers are familiar with. Conduit Street is an up and coming area within London’s luxury quarter that can provide increased brand awareness.
The store design from outside in will build on the brands personality creating recognition in the luxury area. There are multiple factors that will form a unique store experience, initiated before entrance and built up as the consumers enter and bask in the stores ambiance. Consumers will take in the dark and ethereal surroundings, paying attention the large video screen on entrance that is reflecting around the room. The gloss tiles and black glass is juxtaposed against the rubber and matte textures adding depth and interest to the store environment.
The spacious environment provides versatility for the brand, as it is adaptable each season, and can maintain a fresh feel with the large digital screen, giving consumers a different experience on every visit. These key features alongside premium customer service will create an optimal store experience that is distinctive to the brand.
Overall placing the store in a luxury area, where Gareth Pugh can communicate to its consumers effectively, will reinforce the brands luxury status and brand identity. The location and store design will ensure the brand maintains a competitive edge. The design effectively communicates the brands luxury aesthetics and core values creating a cohesiveness on and offline.
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8.0 REFERENCES
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References
Jones Lang LaSalle (2012). The Rise and Rise of London’s Luxury Quarter. Retrieved from http://www. moversandshakers.uk.com/images/uploads/London_Luxury_Quarter_-_September_2012.pdf.
Images
DEZEEN (2010) Gareth Pugh Store in Hong Kong By Daytrip [image] retrieved from : http://www.dezeen. com/2010/08/12/gareth-pugh-store-in-hong-kong-by-daytrip/
DIRECT FLOORING (2014) Gloss Black Laminate Flooring [Image] Retrieved From: http://www.directflooring.co.uk/item/FalquonExclusiveSurfaces_GlossBlackLaminateFlooring_225_137_240_1.html
OFFICE REALITY (2014) kingdom black leather modular seating [Image} retrieved from : http://www.officereality.co.uk/prod/690/kingdom-black-leather-modular-seating
3D Floor Designs
All 3D Floor designs by Patrick Taft at PDT Visuals (figures 6 to 18).
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