Hotel and Catering Issue 4 2023

Pushing BOUNDARIES

IS DOING THINGS HIS WAY IN ATHLONE

Proud Sponsor of Ireland's Afternoon Tea Hotel Award

Editor: Denise Maguire

Creative Director: Jane Matthews

Art Director: Lenny Rooney

Designer: Neasa Daly

Stock Photography: iStock

Infographics: www.flaticon.com

Production: Claire Kiernan

Sales Director: Trish Murphy

Managing Director: Gerry Tynan

Chairman: Diarmaid Lennon

Published by: Ashville Media, Unit 55 Park West Road, Park West Industrial Estate, Dublin 12, D12 X9F9. Tel: (01) 432 2200

ISSN: 0332-4400

All rights reserved. Every care has been taken to ensure that the information contained in this magazine is accurate. The publishers cannot, however, accept responsibility for errors or omissions. Reproduction by any means in whole or in part without the permission of the publisher is prohibited. © Ashville Media Group 2023. All discounts, promotions and competitions contained in this magazine are run independently of Hotel & Catering Review. The promoter/ advertiser is responsible for honouring the prize.

Editor’s View

John Coffey opened Thyme Athlone in 2007, right before the Celtic Tiger crashed and burned. The first few years that followed were tough and all about survival rather than profit. In 2012, Thyme was named ‘Best Value’ restaurant at the 2012 Restaurant Awards and a couple of years later, Paolo Tullio wrote about the well-executed dishes he enjoyed at the Athlone institution. The award and Paolo’s write-up changed the dynamic of the restaurant; both locals and tourists alike were venturing into Thyme to see what all the fuss was about. Today, Thyme is a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant with a plethora of awards under its belt. For this issue, John chatted to us about the early days, what awards mean to him and his staff and the changes he’s implemented since the pandemic. Go to page 21 for more. By the time this issue comes out, Hawksmoor Dublin will have opened its doors at 34 College Green amid much fanfare. On page 18, GM Alex McGettigan explains what makes the restaurant stand out from other steakhouses. Meat is cooked and served as simply as possible and when it’s this uncomplicated, there’s no place to hide. But it’s not all about the steaks, says Alex; just as much emphasis goes on the cocktails, the sides and the vegetarian alternatives and that’s what differentiates Hawksmoor from its competitors.

Earlier this month Paula Carroll, Ashford Castle’s head of marketing and sales, announced her retirement. Although she’ll be taking on an ambassadorial role until November 2024, it’s the end of an era for Paula who devoted more than 35 years of her life to the Ashford estate. On page 15, GM Niall Rochford describes how Paula’s name has become synonymous with both Ashford Castle and Irish tourism. Also in this issue, BWG Foodservice Director Ricky O’Brien talks about the recent addition of the William’s Gate offering to the Group and how its ‘Chef’s Kitchen’ own label brand is offering hospitality businesses great value while not compromising on quality.

As always, there’s plenty to enjoy in this issue. If you have any thoughts or opinions on this month’s content, please do drop us a line.

Editor: Denise Maguire

Email: denise.maguire@ ashvillemediagroup.com

BAR 1661 HONOURED AT COCKTAIL AWARDS

BAR 1661 has been named as a top 10 regional honouree in this year’s Spirited Awards, making the list for Best International Bar Team in Europe. Owner Dave Mulligan said: “I’m incredibly proud to have been recognised by Tales of the Cocktail as one of the best bar teams in Europe. I’m lucky to work with this team every day and to see them grow into the world class unit they have become is humbling to say the least. Their creativity, dedication, focus and ambition is unrivalled with any team I’ve been part of and I know they still haven’t reached the level they are striving to get to. They are a constant inspiration for me and a force to be surrounded by. It’s very rewarding to know that the BAR 1661 team is on par with some of the best bars in the world.”

BAKESTONE CAFÉ CELEBRATES 10TH BIRTHDAY

Founded in 2013 by Cork natives Joe and Maura Carey, Bakestone Café & Pantry in East Cork is marking 10 years in business by partnering with Badger & Dodo to launch a new house coffee blend. The coffee, called Common Grounds, is only available to Bakestone (which also has a café in Fota House) and consists of washed Peruvian and natural Ethiopian beans that boast flavours of vanilla, milk chocolate and orange. Commenting on their 10th birthday, Joe Carey said: “We feel very honoured to have served the people of East Cork and beyond over the past 10 years. We cherish the relationships we've built with our wonderful food producers and suppliers and we feel very lucky to have our wonderful Bakestone team around everything we do.”

Bakestone will celebrate its 10th year with a series of events taking place in Bakestone, including a Meet The Makers event in Autumn.

Your monthly round-up...

CONRAD DUBLIN LAUNCHES NEW SIGNATURE SUITES

Conrad Dublin has launched four new rooms under the two umbrellas of 'Destination Ireland' and 'Destination Dublin' to pay homage to Ireland’s rich culture. The Destination Ireland suites take inspiration from the nation’s deep rooted history and mythology and includes The Boru Suite and Lír Suite, while Destination Dublin includes the Earlsfort Suite and the Niven Suite. The latter was named after famed landscape gardener and designer of the Iveagh Gardens, Ninian Niven.

GRAFTON HOTEL AWARDED GREEN CERTIFICATION

The Grafton Hotel in Dublin 2 has been awarded the Eco-label Green Hospitality Certification by implementing an environmental action plan focusing on energy, waste and water management following an assessment by Green Hospitality. The hotel re-opened in late 2021 after completing a full renovation and upgrade to four stars, where it committed to a sustainability programme and strategy. Headed up by General Manager Brid Cloonan and Group Sustainability Manager Reyhan Thomas, the next step in the hotel’s green journey is to introduce a rooftop beehive to produce honey to be used in the hotel's restaurants and bars. As well as green tourism certification, the hotel was certified for BREEAM in 2022 and shortlisted for the Green Awards earlier this year. Other initiatives include a partnership with sustainable period brand Riley, a provider of sustainable period products in Ireland.

BEREEN BROTHERS OPEN ROW WINES

Dublin-based brothers Marc and Conor Bereen have launched Row Wines, a natural wine bar, small plate and vinyl listening experience in Dublin’s City Assembly House. The brothers were inspired by Tokyo's Japanese style listening bars and the natural wine movement which advocates sustainable, organic farming and the use of grapes native to each area. The wine list will feature wines that are either organic, natural, biodynamic or sustainably made. The regularly updated food menu will feature eight to 10 plates and snacks made with fresh, Irish ingredients. The bar will also offer low ABV cocktails and Irish craft beers on tap. Designed by Luca Architects, the space features a barstyle blend of high and low seating, with capacity for 40 seated indoors and room for another 40 on the outside terrace.

The Sustainability team at The Grafton Hotel

APPOINTMENT

Ballyfin Demesne has announced the appointment of Richard Picard-Edwards as its new Executive Chef. Richard is a Michelin-starred chef who has worked in several UK properties, most recently at the Mandarin Oriental Bittescombe Lodge and Deer Park in Somerset. He also held the role of Executive Head Chef at Lords of the Manor, Upper Slaughter in The Cotswolds where he received his first Michelin star in 2014. Richard Picard-Edwards said: “My family and I are thrilled with this opportunity to move to Ireland and experience all that Ballyfin Demesne and the area has to offer. I am especially excited by the impressive 19th century walled garden that is any chef’s dream to draw from. I also look forward to getting to know more about the fabulous produce that Ireland is renowned for around the world.”

THE G GETS A FACELIFT

Galway’s g Hotel has just undergone a one-million-euro refurbishment of its foyer, lounges, restaurant and cocktail bar. The concept for the refurb was to draw inspiration from the avant garde and create a distinct identity for each of the hotels’ signature lounges - the Pink Room and the Blue Room. The dividing wall between the restaurant and cocktail bar has been removed, while the hotel’s restaurant has been renamed GEO and now opens out onto a new garden terrace. Commenting on the refurb, Regional General Manager Patrick Murphy, said: “Wow was the first word that came to mind when I saw the finished product. the g Hotel is no ordinary hotel, it’s Galway city’s only 5-star hotel and has always made people talk about its style, design and location. For me, it was critical we protected that discussion at all costs but also, we moved the design forward with the customer needs of today. Our design team have achieved that for sure.”

'TAPAS' HITS THE SHELVES

The latest book in the Blasta Books series, TAPAS by Anna Cabrera and Vanessa Murphy, has been published. Recipes by the owners of Las Tapas de Lola and La Gordita include, among others, Chorizo al vino blanco, Tortilla de patatas and Pa amb tomàquet. There are, says publisher Kristen Jenson, thousands of different ways to create so many of these dishes, but that’s the joy of Spain. “Each region, city, village, bar and family has their own version that’s been handed down over the years. Now, you can make these your own too.”

Two programmes in Developing Leaders for Hospitality and Tourism are available through Education and Training Boards locally to ensure workers can upskill in their current role, but also take on new work areas to progress in their career.

Skill to Advance provides upskilling and reskilling opportunities, anticipating and responding to skill needs. It particularly targets those facing changes in their work due to technology advances, changing work practices and market diversification.

A key feature of Skills to Advance is its focus on sectors experiencing disruption or those with emerging opportunities. An example of this is Developing Leaders for Hospitality and Tourism. Driven by the critical challenges now facing the industry and to boost the retention and career progression of key talent, two new training programmes have been developed by SOLAS and the ETBs in collaboration with the Irish Hotels Federation, Failte Ireland and Regional Skills Fora.

These highly subsidised, accredited programmes are aimed at hotel employees who are currently performing a team leader or frontline management role or are new to a supervisory role. They aim to equip employees in the sector with enhanced skills to lead and manage their teams effectively. Benefits for employers include customised training to equip staff to lead teams effectively, increase staff motivation and retention and customised content to address skills gaps. Benefits for employees include enhancing skillsets, leading teams effectively, managing and motivating teams, developing digital skills and optimising career prospects. These programmes will be delivered in a flexible manner to suit both the business and the employee both online with tutor support and when feasible, a blend of online and in-person training is available.

For more information, contact your local Education and Training Board or visit www.skillstoadvance.ie

5 Mins with Suzy Cody

Hendrick’s Gin Ambassador to Ireland

What's your favourite cocktail?

I am currently obsessed with a 'Clover Club' cocktail where I use our latest release from our Cabinets of Curiosity, Hendrick's Flora Adora Gin. The fresh raspberries complement the enticingly floral notes of the gin in this delectable, rich cocktail - my dream drink during summer in a garden patio or rooftop bar.

With so many gins on the market, what makes Hendricks stand out?

Every bottle of every edition is mouth-wateringly, enticingly delicious – especially our new creation Flora Adora, thanks to Lesley Gracie our Master Distiller. Hendrick’s Gin is produced from not one but two very different stills, combined together. This doubles the amount of time and energy that goes into each bottle, which accounts for its round, complex and delectable flavour.

What's the next big drinks trend?

I see a lot of vermouths, wine bars and small plate restaurants slowly influencing Ireland with an emphasis on local food, which I am excited for! Imagine sipping on a herbal, spritzy, refreshing drink at a beautiful bar while you feast on tasty little snacks. Heaven.

What are your ambitions?

To be a brand ambassador and work for Hendrick’s Gin is truly a dream come true. There’s so much more to learn. One dream would be to become the ambassador who throws events that everyone drops everything and runs to! I’d also love to study photography and be able to bring that into my role and life as well.

Life is…?

Like a jigsaw, which is slowly coming together to form a picture I didn’t expect! I love my job, I get to spend time with my family and friends and I am driven, ambitious and really excited about what’s next.

SODEXO IRELAND CHEF SCOOPS BRONZE AT CHEF OF THE YEAR AWARDS

Chef Gordon Carberry from Swords in Co Dublin took home bronze at the 2023 Sodexo UK and Ireland Chef of the Year competition. Gordon, who is Head Chef for Sodexo at VHI headquarters in Dublin, competed against eight other finalists from England, Scotland and Wales in front of a live audience at the HRC Show at ExCel London. The theme of this year’s competition was ‘Celebrating Our Sustainable Future’ and the focus was on the creative use of sustainable ingredients. Gordon impressed judges with his starter of Indian spiced chickpea & lentil bonbon with a raita, carrot and pomegranate salad, pickled cucumber and chilli. His entrée was a thyme baked chicken fillet with a herb and garlic boudin, sweet potato puree, seared yellow carrots, asparagus tips and a madeira jus. Dessert was poached rhubarb with a bee pollen and pistachio crumble, oat tuile, rhubarb fool and gel.

CASTLEMARTYR INDUCTED INTO HISTORIC HOTELS WORLDWIDE

Castlemartyr Resort has been inducted into Historic Hotels Worldwide, the official program of the National Trust for Historic Preservation (USA) for recognising and celebrating the finest historic hotels around the globe. Membership is exclusive to select hotels, resorts and inns with lodgings at historic sites that are at least 75 years old and offer historic accommodations. Brendan Comerford, General Manager at Castlemartyr Resort, said: “Castlemartyr Resort has an 800-year history that we are custodians of. We are proud to be part of this history and take great care of our historic estate and our ancient buildings, from the 18th century Manor House to the 800-year-old Castlemartyr Castle ruins. We incorporate this history into our guest’s experience and welcome our guests to create their own chapter in the ongoing story of this estate.”

Gordon Carberry (centre) receiving his bronze medal from David Mulcahy, Food Innovation and Sustainability Director, Sodexo UK and Ireland and Steve Munkley, Chef Director, Salon Culinaire

Kickstart The Climate Action Journey In Your Business

Climate Action Guides for Tourism Businesses.

Fáilte Ireland has developed a suite of practical climate action guides tailored for the tourism sector to enable businesses to make more practical operational changes to reduce their carbon footprint.

Find out more at failteireland.ie

This Ballymaloe Life

Food Consultant Sue Campbell describes her first few weeks at Ballymaloe Cookery School

Up with the birds to milk cows, make cheese, talk gently to my sourdough starter (Bruce – think Banner), or harvest herbs, salads, veggies for class that day. The 1 acre greenhouse and farm (organic obviously!) is literally bursting into life and I’m grateful that I’m here at this time of year to watch everything explode. I even found my bed-loving self enthusiastically rising at 5.30am to go on a guided dawn chorus walk with the delightful Niall from Birdwatch Ireland. And all that’s before the real work begins... Days have a beautifully predictable structure – demos in the afternoon by the charming Rory (O’Connell) and Rachel (Allen) and assisted hands-on practical classes the next morning, reproducing the dishes from the day before. Every recipe sings with seasonal integrity, full of techniques that are invaluable for whatever food path each student might take. This course is not for the faint-hearted but like the best love affairs, we are all falling headfirst in love with this magical place, despite the exhaustion and the very real emotional rollercoaster. This is a marathon, not a sprint and regardless of the constant reminders, most of us have had a burn out day as a result of overenthusiasm to take part in every morning or evening activity be that

APPOINTMENT

butchery, fermentation, charcuterie, cheese-making... the list goes on. But guided by the stern hands of our gentle, hilarious tutors, us headless chickens are finally finding our feet and our pace. Something tells me the ante is about to be upped fairly smartish, given the guidelines for our midterm exams we just received. It’s definitely down to business.

It seems impossible that I am here four weeks. The Ballymaloe bubble is working its magic and I’m realising that this is not just a cookery course; this is an all-consuming immersion and a new way of looking at food and life.

David Tanis, formerly of Chez Panice and now of Lulus in Los Angeles, arrived as guest chef yesterday to demo. He’s been connected to the school for 12 years and it was his words that stopped me in my tracks. “There is not one place on earth like this. The integrity and ethos of Ballymaloe cannot be replicated. Remember how lucky you are to find yourself here. Stop and understand the profound experience you are having, you will never have another one like it.”

So for today, I’m slowing down, going for a ramble around the herb garden and stopping to smell the rosemary. And then off for a pint in the Goalpost….

Dinesh Mauree has been appointed the new Head Pastry Chef & Chocolatier at The Peregrine restaurant in The Killarney Park Hotel. Dinesh was classically trained at The Ecole Hôtelière Sir Gaëtan Duval, formerly known as the Hotel School of Mauritius, and trained exclusively in Paris. In 2016 he moved to Ireland, working for some prestigious restaurants including Shanahan’s on The Green and Ely, before moving to Killarney in 2017 to join the team at The Killarney Park Hotel. He stayed there for a few years before moving on to The Lake Hotel before returning to the Killarney Park in February of this year. With a passion for pastry and local, seasonal products, the main focus for Dinesh is keeping things classic with a modern twist. Being a Chocolatier, he of course incorporates this main ingredient in a lot of his creations, including his favourite, Tanzanie 75% Cacao Barry Chocolate.

INGREDIENTS

MEERAN MANZOOR is wild about mushrooms

I eat a lot of mushrooms and cooking with them is one of my favourite things to do. Wild mushrooms are such a versatile ingredient; they pair very well with seafood or meat dishes, poultry, soup, to mention just a few. They have a great consistency, be it sauteed, grilled or flash fried and take spices well, uplifting the ingredients around them. They’re equally delicious with punchy flavours or just sauteed with some salt and olive oil. Recently I made wild mushroom butter for our bread course – it was just delicious. My personal favourites are Garryhinch Wood organic mushrooms.

Pan seared cod with sauteed wild mushrooms and kale pesto

Ingredients

• 200g fillet cod

• 100g butter

• Zest of 1 lemon

• Juice of half a lemon

• 1 clove of garlic

• 10g finely chopped coriander

• 100g wild mushrooms

For the pesto

• 100ml olive oil

• 85g kale

• 80g pinenuts

• 1 lemon

• 2 cloves of garlic

Method

To make the pesto Blitz all the ingredients until they form a fine paste.

For the cod

Use a medium hot non-stick pan with a dash of butter. Place the cod skin side down and season with salt. Once the skin is crispy, transfer it from the pan to a tray and bake in the oven for 5-6 mins at 180

degrees.

Using the same pan as the fish, add the remaining butter and finely chopped garlic.

Once brown, add the wild mushrooms and sauté for a minute. Finish with lemon zest, juice and coriander.

In a bowl, place the mushrooms on the bottom, followed by the cod. Add a spoonful of pesto on top and enjoy.

Meeran Manzoor is the Executive Chef at Rare at The Blue Haven Kinsale

Cart Drinks

The latest releases, news and all things drinks-related

COFFEE CHAMPION

Paddy Irish Whiskey recently invited bartenders to submit their best take on the Irish Coffee recipe to be in with a chance of winning a trip to Paris. Georgia Weston at the Distilled Whiskey Bar came out on top with her recipe - 15ml homemade orange oleo saccharum, 40ml Paddy Irish Whiskey, hot coffee and whipped cream.

www.paddywhiskey.com

HIGH SPIRITS

Paladar in Cork has been announced as a 2023 Spirited Awards Regional Top 10 honoree for Best New Cocktail Bar in Europe. Paladar’s owner, Andy Ferreira, said: “Paladar getting nominated is absolutely mindblowing. We put together an amazing team with the aim of bringing something new and unique to Cork and this is only the beginning.” www.paladar.ie

ROCKING WHISKEY

Along with the Philip Lynott Estate, Thin Lizzy has launched its own brand Irish Whiskey, developed by the band in collaboration with West Cork Distillers. The bottle’s label has been created by artist Jim Fitzpatrick who created many of the band’s album covers. The brand has already won double gold at The Europe Wine & Spirit awards.

www.thinlizzyspirits.com

GUINNESS GOES LIVE

Guinness has announced Guinness Live & Rising – a new programme of pop-up music, food and sports events in pubs across the country. The initiative, which was launched by Dermot Kennedy who performed on the roof of the Guinness Storehouse, aims to celebrate Irish pubs across the country. Check out Guinness social channels to find out more.

www.guinness.com

The mark that will help you hire

Tourism businesses’ new mark of employer excellence

The Employer Excellence Programme, an initiative by Fáilte Ireland, supports businesses by helping them to create better workplaces for their employees. Driven by the employees voice, the programme recognises employers who consistently make tourism an exciting and rewarding place to work. Be part of the Employer Excellence Programme. Attract and retain top talent and shine the spotlight on your business.

Find out more at failteireland.ie/employerexcellence

This government funded initiative provides a free and extensive suite of signage and training materials to help workforces make accurate recycling decisions. This will assist Irish businesses to achieve greater Circular Economy performance through increased recycling and composting rates.

A waste characterisation study by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) found that almost 70% of materials being placed in the general commercial waste bins is waste that should be placed in the recycling or food waste bins. Targeted materials (those suitable for recycling) accounted for only 60% of the materials in the mixed dry recycling bins, with food waste among the contaminants. The study found that by improving waste segregation practices, businesses could divert significant amounts

of waste from the general waste stream annually.

Speaking on behalf of the Regional Waste Management Planning Offices, Kevin Swift, Connacht Ulster Region Waste Office said: “This initiative will empower small and medium size businesses, particularly those in the retail, hospitality, manufacturing and corporate sectors to further improve how their waste is managed. With clear language and visuals, the materials will make it easy for staff to quickly understand what waste goes in what bin. This should help significantly increase the amount of recyclables and food waste diverted from the general bin and correctly placed in the recycling and food waste bins.”

The toolkit is free to download or order from www.mywaste.ie/business/

Ashford Castle’s

Paula Carroll announces retirement

Paula Carroll, one of the industry’s best known professionals, has announced her retirement this summer. General Manager of the Ashford Estate Niall Rochford has invited Paula to take on a strategic ambassadorial role until November 2024.

“To say it has been a privilege is an understatement as I have loved each and every year, no matter what challenges were presented,” said Paula. “I am eternally grateful to Mr Niall Rochford and previous GMs, Rory Murphy and Mark Nolan for their unwavering support over all that time. I also wish to thank my extraordinary team across both properties on the Ashford estate for always making me look good. Sincere thanks to the incredible people with whom I have worked and have had the privilege of representing, together with the wonderful Tollman family and the wider Red Carnation community.

“Additionally, I wish to acknowledge and thank my industry colleagues throughout the world, particularly those I now consider friends – they know who they are!”

Niall Rochford said: “Paula Carroll has devoted more than 35 years of her life to the Ashford estate and her passion for the place and its people is quite incredible. Her name has become synonymous with both Ashford Castle and Irish tourism and she has been instrumental in the success of both properties, as well as the reputation of Ashford Castle as one of the finest hotels in the world. She is not only a great colleague but a wonderful friend, so we couldn’t let her leave that easily! I’m delighted that Paula has agreed to take on an ambassadorial role, where she will advise on strategic matters while representing Ashford Castle at major events both in Ireland and overseas.”

Back in 2021, Paula was awarded a Global Lifetime Achievement Award by her industry peers. She was selected for the award by Red Carnation staff members in the Group’s 20 hotels around the world.

“I also wish to thank my extraordinary team across both properties on the Ashford estate for always making me look good”

After 35 years, Ashford’s Director of Marketing and Sales is set to retire

DANIEL WILLIMONT

The Executive Head Chef at Kilronan Castle Estate & Spa on using food as a form of artistic expression and why he’s never worked a day in his life

WHERE DOES YOUR INTEREST IN FOOD COME FROM?

To be honest I don’t really know, except as a child I used to help my mum in the kitchen of the family pub. That could have been the start of it but nowadays, I use food as a form of artistic expression in both taste and presentation, so today my interest stems from other chefs and countries.

CAN YOU TELL ME ABOUT YOUR CAREER SO FAR?

When I was younger, I did a lot of travelling to hotels around Europe, ranging from 4 to 5 star and 1- and 2-star Michelin. I came

to Ireland in 2002 and have been here since, in executive roles in the likes of Mount Falcon Estate, Delphi Resort, Farnham Estate and now, Kilronan Castle Estate & Spa.

IS THERE ONE PERSON IN PARTICULAR THAT HAS INSPIRED YOU IN YOUR CAREER?

Yes, there are two chefs that I worked with who opened my eyes to understanding food and how to run a kitchen. In saying that, many people have inspired me in one way or another when it comes to food and hospitality.

WHAT IS YOUR FOOD STYLE?

Half classic French and half modern gastronomy. My style also takes inspiration from foods from around the world. I enjoy combining these ingredients with science theory.

WHAT DO YOU MOST ENJOY ABOUT WORKING AT KILRONAN CASTLE ESTATE & SPA?

We have built a brilliant working lifestyle at Kilronan Castle Estate & Spa which allows us to utilise our walled garden and all its produce, thanks to Kate our head gardener. Having the ability to implement my own ideas with the full support of everyone including the GM and owner is fantastic. That support allows us to maintain the high standard we have achieved for our customers who invest their time and effort into eat our food.

HOW IMPORTANT IS SUSTAINABILITY IN YOUR KITCHEN?

It’s very important. We of course re-use and recycle nearly everything we come across. We also grow most of our food, forage from the land and even compost all our food waste.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE DISH ON THE MENU RIGHT NOW?

I don’t have one and I never have. I’m always hard on myself and think it can be better!

IS IT DIFFICULT TO SOURCE CERTAIN PRODUCTS/ INGREDIENTS?

Yes, it can be but mainly it’s the weather that slows us down. As we prepare most of our produce in house, we can adapt and move forward most of the time.

WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE YOUR SUCCESS TO?

Never giving in, never stopping.

WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT YOUR JOB?

I never worked a day in my life and that alone says it all. I love everything about my job.

“It’s very important. We of course re-use and recycle nearly everything we come across. We also grow most of our food, forage from the land and even compost all our food waste”

Birch Smoked Cheddar Ban Croque Mique Bee Pollen, Sea Truffle, Colour Flesh Radish, Black Garlic

Soy & Bamboo Cured Black Sole Sea Oyster Leaf, Celeriac, Black Sesame, Baby Spinach, Juniper Velouté Paired Side: Purple Potato, Lobster Crumbs

Talking to Alex McGettigan

Steak, sides, cocktails - the Hawksmoor Dublin General Manager is aiming for perfection all round

HOW DOES IT FEEL TO BE IN DUBLIN?

It all feels quite serendipitous to take the reins of Hawksmoor Dublin, as I was born in Bray. In fact, one of my uncles worked in the very bank building on 34 College Green where Hawksmoor is opening. My dad moved his young family from Bray to Bristol for a twoyear work contract 40 years ago and he’s still there! So now here I am, making a move in reverse – by moving my young girls from London back to Bray to open Hawksmoor Dublin.

HOW IMPORTANT WAS IT TO RETAIN THE ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE NATIONAL BANK BUILDING?

Loads of time and thought have gone into this design. We want to celebrate the original fabric of the National Bank building by restoring original features, such as the banking hall’s grand 40-foot cast-iron dome and ornate plasterwork. In addition, we love creating timeless restaurants that look and feel like 100 years’ worth of happy people have passed through their doors.

WHAT MAKES HAWKSMOOR DIFFERENT TO OTHER STEAK RESTAURANTS?

It’s a really good question. I think if you ask any steakhouses, they’ll tell you a story about beef and we’re no exception. Fundamentally, we believe that high animal welfare and regenerative farming practices guarantee great-tasting beef and Ireland has been a dream to source in – there are so many people doing things the right way here. We serve our steak as naturally as possible. Just a little salt and a lick of smoke from the live-fire charcoal grill. When it’s as simple as this, the beef has to be the best. There’s nowhere to hide. I guess what really makes us stand out are three things. Firstly, for a restaurant with such a great reputation and in such a beautiful building, it’s a pretty casual place; we want staff to be themselves and our

guests to feel comfortable. The second thing is attention to detail. It’s not just the steak – the sides, the cocktails, the vegetarian food, the desserts, it all gets constantly reworked and refined. Finally, we hope we’re running a business as it should be – we care about the people who work here, about the communities we are in, about various causes that are close to our hearts, especially food poverty and about being as sustainable as we possibly can.

HOW IMPORTANT IS THE DRINKS OFFERING AT HAWKSMOOR?

Before you have a good steak, you need a good cocktail, right? So having a foot in a few brilliant cocktail-drinking cities around the world really helps us shape the bar programme into something unique. Spending time in New York, London and Dublin has allowed us to borrow inspiration from each and fuse it with local inspirations and suppliers. We have been particularly taken by the explosion of martini culture in the US, so we’re excited about bringing our sub-zero NY-style martinis to Dublin. We’ve been collaborating with a couple of brands we love, like fellow B-Corp, the Boatyard Distillery in Co Fermanagh, with whom we’ve made a bespoke gin designed specifically to be used in our Ultimate Martini. We’ve also made a single farm (from Blackcastle near Tipperary, one of the few farms in the Waterford stable that grows barley and raises cattle) edition whisky with Waterford Distillery.

HAS THE COST OF LIVING CRISIS AFFECTED PRICING ON YOUR MENUS?

There are two questions there really… how inflation has affected pricing and how the cost of living crisis has affected pricing. The first would encourage you to put prices up, the second to bring prices down! Our prices have gone up over the last year, but by far less than food inflation. It’s on our mind all the time – thinking about how we can be clever with purchasing and things like managing waste to try to minimise the impact on guests. We keep a close eye on what other people charge and we try hard to be competitive.

HOW IMPORTANT IS SUSTAINABILITY AT HAWKSMOOR?

The launch of Hawksmoor in Dublin coincides with the recent publication of our first annual impact report. Our obsession with quality and ethics has led us to work with individuals and companies who share our beliefs, from local farmers and fishermen focusing on sustainability to local, national and international charities fighting food poverty. In the past year, Hawksmoor became the world’s first carbon-neutral steak restaurant group and set net zero plans in place. It also became the first restaurant in the UK and Ireland to gain B Corp certification. That may or may not be important to our guests, but it’s really important to us.

HOW DO THE 11 HAWKSMOOR RESTAURANTS DIFFER FROM EACH OTHER?

They’re a bit like a family. In some ways a lot like each other, in some ways unique. The menus, design, charities we support, ingredients we buy, people we partner with – there are differences in every restaurant. More importantly, the ‘personality’ of the restaurant changes, not least because no two cities have the same personality. We’re not trying to create a London or a New York restaurant in Dublin, we’re trying to create a Dublin restaurant so it should feel different from all the others. The personality bit takes time of course, but that’s the goal.

WHAT’S THE SECRET TO COOKING THE PERFECT STEAK?

There are three ingredients in a steak: beef, charcoal and salt. The key is to buy the best meat you can. Get your meat to room temperature (for an hour from the fridge). Then fire up the BBQ or a grill pan, it needs five minutes over a high heat. It should be painful to hold your hand anywhere near the heat source. The aim is to get a good char outside while keeping the meat juicy and tender inside.

Pat dry your steak. Otherwise, it will struggle to form a decent crust, then season the meat well with Maldon sea salt. You will need to use more than you probably think is sensible. Don’t use oil; if the grill is hot enough, the meat won’t stick. Leave it for a few moments to start building up a crust, then flip. Carry on turning every couple of minutes until it’s the way you like it and don’t forget to sear the edges. Check if your steak is cooked to how you like.

WHAT’S THE AMBITION AT HAWKSMOOR DUBLIN?

The ambitions are pretty simple – to run a world class restaurant in a world class city, to be a great place to work and for Dublin to take it to its heart and feel a sense of pride and ownership of the restaurant. That’s how we know if we’ve done a good job.

“We serve our steak as naturally as possible. Just a little salt and a lick of smoke from the livefire charcoal grill. When it’s as simple as this, the beef has to be the best. There’s nowhere to hide”

About

An institution in Athlone, John Coffey’s Thyme is only getting better

They say timing is everything. In 2007, John Coffey opened Thyme in Athlone and a year later, the Irish economy entered a severe recession. A quarter of a million people lost their jobs and emigration began in earnest. The Celtic Tiger had well and truly collapsed. For John, the intervening years were all about survival. “Those tough years probably made us the restaurant we are today. The easiest thing in the world would have been to give up because for a long time, we didn’t make any money at all. The fact that we managed to keep the restaurant open was solely down to my wife’s wage. Back then, nobody knew who I was so getting a customer to take a punt on us was a struggle. But as the saying goes, what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger and also, my parents had guaranteed the loan I took out to set up Thyme, so failure wasn’t an option!”

For five years, the restaurant turned enough of a profit to remain open, but little more. Things began to turn around in 2012 when Thyme was named ‘Best Value Restaurant’ in Ireland at the 2012 Restaurant Awards. A couple of years later, Paolo Tullio paid a visit to the restaurant and wrote about the well thought-out and wellexecuted dishes he had the pleasure of eating. “A little while later, Paolo also included us in a ‘ones to watch’ list. After that, we never looked back. That publicity changed the dynamic of the restaurant; customers were coming in to see what all the fuss was about.”

After coming through those first few years there was a sense, says John, that the restaurant could survive the tough times. Covid was no picnic, but it presented the opportunity for a reset. “We came out of the pandemic with a different type of restaurant. Before Covid, we were open seven days a week and it was just hectic. We had been named a Bib Gourmand restaurant; things had definitely changed since we first opened back in 2007.” Covid allowed the team to implement a more structured work/life balance. “The restaurant is still very busy but it’s not as intense. Before Covid, I would have taken Monday or Tuesday off but I was never really ‘off’. I was always in and out, checking on bookings and the fact that we were open but I wasn’t there was always in the back of my mind. Now, we’re closed on a Monday and Tuesday so that pressure is off. I might still pop in and out, but it’s a different type of pressure.” John also made the decision to close the restaurant for a week in spring, two weeks in the summer and a week in autumn. “It means we can take holidays as a family, which never really happened before. Since Covid, I think we’ve created a more consistent restaurant.” A new kitchen, installed during the pandemic, has helped to lower energy bills. “That new kitchen is saving our ass now as we swapped out gas for induction. It was a case of, do it now or do it never. I don’t think you’d ever get the chance to make such a big change if you were open. Our energy costs are still of course high, but the kitchen is operating much more efficiently and that has contributed to lower bills.”

After coming through those first few years there was a sense, says John, that the restaurant could survive the tough times. Covid was no picnic, but it presented an opportunity for a reset

John Coffey, Chef-Patron, Thyme Restaurant

Thyme got its first Bib Gourmand nod back in 2019. The restaurant has retained its Michelin status ever since. “It’s good to know that all the hard work is paying off. It’s also good news for Athlone; customers often tell me they’re proud they have a restaurant like Thyme in their area. Getting such a well-regarded award is also motivating for staff. For me, I’m not really one for sitting back and dwelling on these things. At the end of the day, the spuds still have to be peeled and all the normal everyday jobs still have to get done!”

As a schoolgoer and later, a college student, John worked in the local hotel. He ended up in the kitchen, peeling potatoes out the back before moving up the ranks. The hotel was very much a source of local employment for the town, from the people who worked in the hotel to the farmers that supplied their produce. “When I was in college, I’d go back every weekend to fill in for the sous or head chef. I think that’s where I learned how to source locally and the importance of the local community around you. My mother was also an excellent cook, I learned a lot from her.” Thyme

is known for its sustainable, local menus that showcase the best of what Irish suppliers have to offer. Inbetween game and lamb seasons, you’ll always find goat dishes on the specials board.

“My supplier is Penny Greene in Roscommon, who’s been breeding Boer goats since the late 1990s. We take in the whole goat, slow braise the shoulder, comfit the belly and roast the loin. So the three parts of the goat go into the dish which is served with wild garlic and Garryhinch organic mushrooms.” How popular is the goat dish at Thyme? “It’s a funny one; we put it on the menu before Covid and it wasn’t selling at all. I said I’d give it another go once we reopened and it’s been selling out ever since. Last Friday night we had a table of seven ladies and six of them had the goat. I think when people have trust in you, they’re more open to new experiences.”

For most restaurateurs, staffing and rising costs can be challenging. For John, his philosophy is to take each day as it comes. “In the early days, there was always something to be worried about, but I’m more comfortable in my skin now. Rising costs are of course a worry, but we refuse to compromise on ingredients. That way, we maintain the quality of the dishes we serve. Otherwise, I don’t really look beyond the next six months, which drives my staff and my wife nuts, but it’s just the way I deal with what’s in front of me.” By the end of 2023, the aim is to have a better restaurant than at the start of the year. “Whether that’s doing something different with service, the menus, the furniture in the restaurant, I just want to keep improving. If we can say we’ve done that, then I’ll be happy.”

“It’s good to know that all the hard work is paying off. It’s also good news for Athlone; customers often tell me they’re proud they have a restaurant like Thyme in their area”

Goat dish at Thyme

Supplier’s

For Ricky O’Brien, Foodservice Director at BWG Foods, innovation is the beating heart of the business

Corner

How’s business?

Business has bounced back stronger than ever over the past 12 months and we (BWG Foodservice) are in double digit growth on last year. Hospitality, in many areas, has recovered to pre-pandemic peaks and I expect that trend to continue throughout the summer as we see a continued recovery of international tourism. BWG Foodservice is in a good place. We were recently presented with the Foodservice Supplier of the Year award at the CATEX

Exhibition and just a fortnight ago, we were named ‘Franchise Supplier of the Year’ at the Irish Franchise Association Awards 2023. As a business, we are growing and now offer an enhanced solution for Ireland’s hospitality market, providing everything the caterer needs – chilled, frozen, ambient, alcohol and non-food products. The addition of the William’s Gate offering, our specialist butcher, makes ours a truly unique offering for the industry.

How important are launches such as William’s Gate to Ireland’s foodservice industry?

In our industry, if you are standing still, you’re falling behind. William’s Gate is a game-changing addition to the BWG offering and we now offer high-quality meats to hospitality businesses all over Ireland. I cannot emphasise just how important and impressive the William’s Gate offering is. From its state-of-the-art facility in Co Galway, we now have the capacity to produce all the protein needs required by the foodservice industry – from classic hand-crafted butchery to sausage making, curing, chicken processing, burger production and more. We’re always looking to improve what I firmly believe is already an industry-leading service and when BWG introduces game-changing additions like William’s Gate to the industry, we are doing just that.

How is BWG Foodservice supporting customers affected by rising prices?

Our exclusive ‘Chefs Kitchen’ own label brand was developed to offer great value to our customers, while not compromising on quality. As we say, premium quality but not a premium price. Chefs’ Kitchen is benchmarked against the brand leaders to ensure the highest quality is guaranteed. We have over 200 lines with plans to grow and we will be at PLMA at the end of May, so watch this space for some more exciting Chefs’ Kitchen developments.

Is it difficult to source certain foods at the moment?

The impact of global events can have far reaching effects on the supply of certain foods. Thankfully,

“As we say, premium quality but not a premium price. Chefs’ Kitchen is benchmarked against the brand leaders to ensure the highest quality is guaranteed”

Ricky O’Brien, Foodservice Director, BWG Foods

our ‘can do’ attitude is mirrored all the way back to our suppliers and ultimately the producers in Ireland and overseas. BWG works closely with our suppliers to make sure stocks are adequate and product is flowing. With our strategically placed foodservice depots supported by our Value Centre cash and carry branches throughout Ireland, we are as insulated against shortages as any business could hope to be. We are still reporting service to our customers in excess of 98%, which is industry leading and something we are very passionate about.

How has BWG adapted as the industry evolves?

Being part of the BWG Foods family means that BWG Foodservice is constantly evolving, innovating and availing of the supports that come with a large wholesale partner. This is particularly evident in IT developments such as ‘ShopLink’, BWG’s awardwinning e-commerce platform which allows our customers to connect live with the supply chain. As a result, BWG Foodservice customers can access ShopLink 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. We are actively leveraging artificial intelligence throughout our business and exploring exciting ways in which this technology can benefit our foodservice customers into the future. This technology is exclusive to us and has evolved over the years, where now nearly half of our customers are ordering online.

How important is sustainability at BWG?

It’s top of our agenda. We are certified members of Origin Green for the third year running, we are committed to reducing our carbon footprint and to rolling out energy saving initiatives, including solar power and carbon neutral vehicles. For example, already this year BWG Foods has launched Ireland’s first electric heavy goods vehicle (HGV) in the 20-tonne category, bringing BWG’s low carbon delivery fleet to 32 HGV vehicles. We are also constantly upgrading our Value Centres and have installed solar panels and EV chargers in six of our depots thus far, with plans to roll these initiatives out further. Through the BWG foodservice range, we have an extensive plant-based range of delph such as bagasse, which is a compostable range of food containers and plates. We also offer a recyclable range of corrugated food boxes as well as a plastic free range of cups and from an environmentally friendly perspective, we also took the decision to move to wooden/compostable cutlery and provide compostable/bamboo straws.

What do you see as the next big trend in food service?

marbled meat and fat and are melt-in-your mouth sumptuous. It’s also important to have plant-based food offerings on menus so we have an ever-evolving plant-based product range. We’re proud of our IQFA Award winning plant-based dessert Viennoiserie and our full menu-solutions from our partner supplier, Plant-It, an Irish brand that boasts a wide range of meat-free alternative products that are nutritious and delicious.

What are the ambitions at BWG?

We plan to continue to grow and push boundaries in hospitality. Collectively, our team has a driving ambition to be recognised as the best foodservice supplier in Ireland. I want us to continue to bring innovation and an even better service and range to our customers. I firmly believe we have been able to grow this facet of the overall company because of the people we have around us and the customers we serve. I am so proud to be part of this industry that has shown such determination and resilience to ensure people are able to come together again and enjoy the delights of our wonderful hospitality

I think people will start looking for more value for money offerings. In William’s Gate, for example, we are working on a range of value cut meats. For me, our short ribs are a true masterpiece, hand-selected and expertly cut from the flavourful beef chuck. These magnificent cuts of meat boast a perfect balance of industry. expertly cut from the flavourful beef chuck. These

“I firmly believe we have been able to grow this facet of the company because of the people we have around us and the customers we serve”

Simon Marriott, Chief Operations Officer, Karla Murray, Head of Foodservice Trading and Ricky O’Brien, Foodservice Director, all BWG Foods

Ricky O’Brien and the BWG Foodservice team at CATEX 2023 with the National Foodservice Supplier of the Year award

A ChatQuickwith Desi Derby

Making sure customers’ changing needs are met is all in a day’s work for Musgrave’s Marketing Director

WHAT DOES YOUR JOB ENTAIL?

I joined Musgrave in 2016 as Head of Marketing for NI and in 2018 was appointed Director of Marketing for the wholesale and foodservice division across the island of Ireland. My role has evolved throughout the years and I now have responsibility for our customer service team as well as Musgrave MarketPlace’s new online eCommerce platform, which offers customers a one-stop-shop for all their business needs.

HOW’S BUSINESS?

Since the reopening of hospitality across all of our markets in early 2022, we’ve seen a significant recovery, with restaurant sales up as people return to socialising and eating out. This recovery has been faster than projected. Nevertheless, the industry is now facing new challenges; energy inflation, product availability and the biggest challenge of all – availability of labour. We continue to work with customers and suppliers to support them in every way possible.

HOW HAVE CUSTOMERS’ REQUIREMENTS EVOLVED OVER THE PAST FEW YEARS?

To make sure we’re meeting our customers changing needs, we’ve developed a new positioning for the Musgrave MarketPlace brand. ‘Business Made Easy’ is a renewed commitment to our customers that places customer service firmly at its heart. Branches are now open seven days a week, with extended opening hours and delivery routes. Nationwide delivery and a 24/7 online ordering system are also available and expansion in our range means we now supply more vegan and healthy ingredients. We also offer a scaled alcohol business under the Musgrave MarketPlace brand, along with Butchers Prime,

a premium Irish Hereford meat range and Brewdoo Coffee, a bean-to-cup and barista coffee proposition for the hospitality sector.

HOW ARE YOU SUPPORTING CUSTOMERS FACED WITH RISING COSTS?

In a nutshell, we’re committed to providing an extensive range at the best value. We have introduced a Price Cuts campaign, delivering market-beating prices on the products that matter most to our customers. In addition, a Switch & Save campaign highlights our ownbrand Musgrave Excellence range which is quality approved, endorsed by a panel of chefs and promises to be at least 15% cheaper than the branded equivalent. We’re also committed to supporting our customers to reduce their food waste.

TELL ME ABOUT YOUR PARTNERSHIP WITH FOODCLOUD

We’re committed to doing everything possible to build a more sustainable future and our partnership with FoodCloud is a key focus for the business. We’re extremely proud that our support has resulted in over 1.2 million meals, with an estimated value of over €1.5 million, going directly to amazing charities all over Ireland, providing support to those most vulnerable in our communities. Musgrave MarketPlace donates surplus food from seven branches nationwide directly to Irish charities through the FoodCloud app. The Ballymun branch has supported local charity, Linx Project Limited, through the donation of over 15,000 meals to date.

WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT YOUR JOB?

Because Musgrave is a seventh generation family-owned Irish business, it really cares about this place. Being able to do business with a strong social conscience is something I’m personally passionate about and Musgrave enables you to do that. Whether it’s working towards net zero by 2040, supporting the reduction of food waste, raising €100,000 annually for a local charity (currently Autism Assistance Dogs Ireland), supporting close to 800 Irish producers or investing €350,000 in TUD’s School of Culinary Arts – together all these things really make a difference.

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