AsiaLIFE Cambodia September 2013

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092013 ISSUE81

D N D U N O U of the

SERGRO

D N U www.asialifemagazine.com




note from the editor AsiaLIFE Group Group Editor-in-Chief / Director Cambodia: Mark Bibby Jackson mark@asialife.asia

Group Director Sales & Marketing / Director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialife.asia

Managing Editor Cambodia: Ellie Dyer ellie@asialife.asia

Director Thailand: Nattamon Limthanachai (Oh) oh@asialife.asia

Associate Editor: Marissa Carruthers

Group Creative Director: Johnny Murphy johnny@asialife.asia

Editor-at-Large Cambodia: Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen Siem Reap: Joanna Wolfarth

Ellie Dyer Over the years in which I’ve lived in Phnom Penh, the capital’s nightlife scene has had a radical overhaul. A new generation of venues has evolved to supplement the city’s well-established clubs such as Heart of Darkness, Riverhouse and Pontoon. When once a dose of commercial hip-hop — think pre-reggae Snoop Dogg — was the soundtrack to a night on the tiles, bright young DJs are bringing electro, techno and nu disco to the masses at intimate club nights. The fact that the scene is still growing gives new music aficionados, especially women, the opportunity to hone their skills in a welcoming environment, as audiences lap up their innovative, pumping sounds. Essentially, when it comes to nightlife, there’s more choice than ever, as this month’s cover feature by Marissa Carruthers demonstrates. Whether you enjoy deafening tunes at Khmer night-spots, late-night boozing at Howie’s or The Heart, or hanging out with the cool kids at Meta House or Bar.Sito, Phnom Penh has it all on a platter. If dancing until dawn gets too tiring or your head becomes too sore, we’ve also highlighted some, perhaps more wholesome, events and activities that may inspire you to shake off a hangover and get out and about. I’ve joined the global craze of geocaching — a global treasure hunt that led me to climb trees, get attacked by ants and nonchalantly stare at gates while seeking out hidden treasure troves. We’ve also talked to an inspiring young Khmer student, Sokmean Srin, who dedicates his spare time to hunting for historic photographs, and will be showing the fruits of his labour at a fascinating exhibition this month. Illustrator Natalie Phillips has been delving into nature by exploring the country’s growing butterfly industry, while our food section is also lepidoptery-inspired. Amanda Saxton has profiled the chef behind The Common Tiger, a restaurant named after a variety of the flying insect, which is currently the talk of the town. A special mention should also go to the talented Todd Brown, who has kindly shared his photographs of Kyoto, Japan. Ethereal and atmospheric, he has captured the soul of an ancient city and the geishas who still walk its streets.

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Sales Director Cambodia: Sorn Chantha chantha@asialife.asia sornchantha@yahoo.com Sales and Accounts: Seang Seiha 012 581 455

Art Director Cambodia: Hilary Fastier Photographers: Charles Fox & Conor Wall Distribution: Sorn Chandara 096 9999 351 Printing: Sok Heng Printing House

Accountant: Seang Satya

For advertising enquiries call Chantha on 012 576 878. Special thanks to: Ryan Taylor, Lizzie Johnson, Mercy AnanehFrempong, Darren Gall, Gemma Mullen, Sebastian Strangio, Natalie Phillips, Naomi Wilcockson, Todd Brown, Sam Jam, Cambodia Restaurant Association, Amanda Saxton, Lyda Long, Dara Saoyuthnea and David Preece - for their contribution to this issue.

On the Cover Pictured: Lizzie Johnson Photography: Conor Wall Art Direction: Hilary Fastier AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © 360º Media.

Next time you're in Vietnam, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE or download it from www.asialifemagazine.com



092013 ISSUE81

14 Picks of the Month

front

16 Openings

getaway

42 No Guardrails Here

food

46 Grilling The Chef

44 Slow Boat Through Loas

20 Dispatches 22 Phnom Penh Calendar 24 Photo Essay

48 The Common Tiger

28 Q&A: Nikki George

on the cover

30 Sound of the Underground

storyboard

36 Amazing Cambodia 38 The Hunt Is On 40 Butterfly Nation

24 36 6 asialife Cambodia

49 St 63

style & design

50 Behind the Design

back

57 Listings

52 On The Flip Side

90 Phnom Penh Map 98 Pub Quiz

40 46



Sept 2013

Giant Ibis Nest Discovered

Gerry Ryan / WWF-Cambodia

A Giant Ibis nest, complete with two eggs, has been found a few kilometres inland from the Mekong River. It is the first nest belonging to the critically endangered bird to be documented in the Mekong Flooded Forest in Northeastern Cambodia. The global population of Cambodia’s national bird is estimated to be around 345 individuals, with about 90 percent found inside the Kingdom. “The discovery of the Giant Ibis nest on the Mekong is extremely significant because it provides

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hope for the species' survival,” says WWF bird nest project officer Sok Ko. The nest team has made an agreement with local farmer Krech Phoeun and another villager to protect the nest from disturbance until any potential chicks hatch and leave the nest.

AWC Gala Dinner

Save the date for the Australian Women's Connection fundraising event on Oct. 10. The AWC's Plate for a Cause gala dinner at Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra will feature five notable Phnom Penh chefs, fine wines, a charity auction, plenty of prizes and dancing. The ticket price had yet to be set at the time of going to press, but for more information email awcphn@ gmail.com or follow the event by ‘liking’ Sofitel on Facebook. Enjoy a unique culinary experience, while raising money for Cambodian associations such as Mother's Heart and SCIP. To find out more about the groups, visit: mothersheart-cambodia. org and scipquilt.org.

ICTP Friends Up with Cambodian NGO

Friends International has joined with the International Coalition of Tourism Partners in a new partnership to boost the NGO’s efforts across Cambodia. The collaboration follows discussions at the recent World Economic Forum in Myanmar between ICTP president Professor Geoffrey Lipman and Friends International director Sebastien Marot. “It will allow the expansion of services and will support the diffusion of the ChildSafe messages to a wider audience,” says Marot. As a first step, ICTP will circulate a bi-monthly Friends International newsletter with advice and good practice for destinations and their stakeholders. The ChildSafe Network is a global child protection system established and powered by Friends International, designed to protect children and youngsters from abuse and influence all tiers of society to create positive environments for them. For more information, visit: www. friends-international.org.

Mooncake Season

NagaWorld has unveiled new varieties of mooncakes to celebrate the Chinese midAutumn festival that falls on Sep. 19 this year. The hotel and entertainment complex is offering velvety smooth and flavourful non-bake green tea and tiramisu cakes. For advocates of traditional mooncakes, there is also an array of golden-crusted baked versions filled with creamy lotus seed, pandan, durian and red bean paste, with options of plain or double yolk cakes to choose from. The mooncakes are available at Fortune Palace on level one of NagaWorld, from 11am to 10pm until Sep. 19.


Eagles Soar High

The Cambodian Eagles Football club flew to Thailand last month to take part in The Asian Championships, an annual tournament for Asia-based Australian Rules Football teams. The relatively unknown Japan team was up first, and the Eagles held on to win a low-scoring match 8 to 4. The team won a second game against Thailand 19 to 1, and also dominated Laos 27 to 12. Their streak ended thanks to the Vietnam Swans, who downed the Eagles by two goals. “I couldn’t be more proud of the team, we played some great football and to come away with three wins against quality opposition is a huge effort,” says coach Grant Fitzgerald. The Eagles will now begin preparations for the Indochine Cup, which they will host in Phnom Penh on Nov. 7.

PPAWS Pet of the Month

This three-month-old blind puppy is currently being fostered. According to her carer, the pup currently sleeps well and is learning not to be "mouthy" and chew. “When she is outside she will lift her head up and listen to the birds in the trees for a time, [she] seems to enjoy it,” says her foster mother. If you are interested in giving the dog a home, please contact Nicola Scales on 017 293 654. She will pass contact details on to Dot, the puppy’s carer, to arrange a visit.

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Sept 2013

with Bun Kenny, Pannhara Mam, Phalkun Mam, and Long Samneang making their mark on court. The players will be joined by head coach Braen Aneiros, national team coach Peov Chea, head of development Christina Ingmire and supporters hoping to cheer the players on to victory. In addition to sponsorship from NagaWorld, Jean Benoit Lasselin, the owner of luxury brand colorblind, will once again furnish the uniforms for the delegation.

Google Maps Arrives

Game, Set and Match

The Tennis Federation of Cambodia will embark on its second Davis Cup bid in the United Arab Emirates on Sep. 8. The Cambodia squad surprised the tennis community last year by finishing the Asia/Oceania Group IV draw undefeated — triumphing over more developed tennis

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nations like Singapore, Myanmar, Jordan and Qatar. The performance resulted in a promotion to Group III, where they will face teams from Vietnam, Malaysia, Iran, Oman, Pacific Oceania, Hong Kong and the UAE. TFC’s secretary general, Tep Rithivit, will lead the squad to Dubai as the non-playing captain,

Cambodia will be showcased to the world at the touch of a button after Google revealed plans to capture both the capital and Angkor Wat on camera for its Street View scheme. Under the plans, Google cars kitted out with 360-degree panoramic cameras will hit Phnom Penh and Angkor Archaeological Park before moving on to the rest of the country. It is believed the move will help

boost tourism in the country while showcasing Cambodian culture to the rest of the world. “After seeing the images, they will dream about a real visit,” says Pak Sokhom, under-secretary of state for the Ministry of Tourism.

Ventriloquist Performs

New York Steakhouse on Street 63 was set to mark its first birthday with a series of performances from international ventriloquist Christian Gabriel and his friend Freddy. On Aug. 30, the French ventriloquist and his side-kick monkey were due to perform at each guest’s table during the dinner service. The act was set to be repeated on the Saturday and Sunday nights. Hailing from Clermont-Farrand, Gabriel has wowed audiences in the music halls and cabarets of Paris. He has also starred on more than 250 radio shows and a series of television shows, including The World’s Greatest Cabaret on France 2.



Police Publicity

Siem Reap residents have been singing the praises of the town’s Immigration Police recently, in particular the tireless work of officer Yut Sinin, who has earned a reputation for taking crimes seriously and working towards returning stolen goods to their original owner. Sinin, who took to Facebook to publicise the force’s work, says, “I work with all my heart without discrimination for any nationality, skin color, political or social status. This is my nation, I wish everyone living here peace and happiness.”

Angkor Wat Bike4Kids

Budding cyclists are being invited to sign up for the annual Angkor Wat Bike4Kids event. Now in

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its eighth year, the fundraiser encourages participants to cycle through the beautiful temple complex of Angkor Wat to help raise funds for local charities that support vulnerable children and victims of sex trafficking. This year’s event, presented by Village Focus International and Terre des Hommes – Netherlands, takes place on Nov. 30. This year’s net proceeds will support the Cambodian Center for the Protection of Children’s Rights, The Cambodian Women’s Crisis Center, Action Pour les Enfants, Il Nodo’s My Own Hands Social Design project and Il Nodo’s Helping Children Living with Parents in Prison project. To sign up for more information, visit bike4kids.org.

Luis Baretto

Sept 2013

All Abuzz

The Hive café-bar officially opened in Siem Reap on Aug. 10. “Our set up is designed in a way that makes the transition from coffee shop during the day to cocktail bar at night very easy,” says coowner Clayton Jedam. “We have people working here all day, then closing their laptops and ordering a cocktail.” The menu reflects the concept, with café-style food and pizza served up at the stylish location set behind hotel Riviera. Jedam explains that the name “reflects the way we want the cafe to feel — a hive of activity, but also homely. In turn, the design and the colours give it a bee-hive feel.” For more information, visit The Hive Siem Reap Facebook page.


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picks of the month Try: Art Classes If you yearn for an artistic outlet to help while away rainy days, Romeet Gallery on Street 178 is on hand. Art classes for both children and adults are running each Saturday, costing $8.50 per session or $65 for ten. Taught by Phare Ponleu Selpak graduate Sao Sreymao, wouldbe creatives can discover a new technique each week, from illustration to watercolour and acrylics. Subject matter can range from still-life to portraiture and landscapes. Lessons cater to all skill levels and ages. All material is provided. Register interest with Sreymao at romeetgallery@gmail. com or by calling 077 550 759.

Train: Luang Prabang Half-Marathon Stunning Luang Prabang in Laos will provide the setting for a half-marathon on Oct. 5, with proceeds going towards the NGO Friends International. Entry costs a minimum of $200, with the non-profit set to put the funds towards setting up a vocational training restaurant in the Laotian city. This would follow the model of its popular Cambodian eateries, which include Romdeng, Friends and Marum. Shorter routes of seven and 14 kilometres can also be run on the day, which is the first event of its kind in Luang Prabang. For more information visit: luangprabanghalfmarathon.com.

Travel: Photography Tours Abroad Budding photographers can hone their skills under the direction of expert Nathan Horton, who has announced a series of exciting new photography tours. Horton, a former AsiaLIFE photographer, has decided to spread his wings and give students the opportunity to explore Nepal, Bali and Myanmar, alongside Cambodia. Participants’ learning goes beyond teaching good camera techniques and onto understanding how the camera can be used to open doors with subjects. For more information visit: nathanhortonphotography.com.

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Click: Chartgirl.com Most people would agree that it’s important to stay up to date with world news and events. However, certain stories are complex and difficult to understand, for example the Eurozone banking crisis. Fortunately, ChartGirl has come to the rescue. Run by Hilary Sargent, this site distills current events into black and white charts. For example, there is one detailing the reporting of the Boston bombing, while another lays out all of the people that Donald Trump is currently feuding with.

Watch: The Premier League It’s that time of the year again, when friends can head to the nearest sports bar, down some beers and enjoy some English Premier League football action. The European football season for 2013-2014 is afoot, with Jose Mourinho back for another spell at Chelsea, just one of the teams fighting for glory in the “beautiful game”. Chilean Manuel Pellegrini is also entering the fray as the new manager of last year’s league runners-up, Manchester City.


Dolphins Scientists discover that the loveable sea mammal can recognise old friends after more than 20 years of separation. Lab Burgers The first burger to be made from laboratory-grown cow muscle is revealed, though willing guinea pigs think it could be juicer. George The UK’s long-awaited royal baby is dubbed George Alexander Louis, sparking reports of an instant rise in the name’s popularity. Doctor Who Actor Peter Capaldi moves on from his infamous spin-doctor role as Malcolm Tucker in The Thick of It to enter the tardis as the next, distinctly less angry, Doctor Who. Andy Warhol The iconic pop artist gets another 15 minutes of fame, this time from beyond the grave, as a webcam is trained on his final resting place in honour of his 85th birthday.

GOING UP GOING DOWN Milk Powder Fonterra health scare reaches Cambodia as batches of Danone Dumex milk powder are recalled. Twitter Trolls Social networking site under fire after Twitter trolls tweet bomb threats to female journalists. Stalky Shop Assistants Following one pace behind a customer at all times does not make for a good time. Here’s to personal space! Mumbai Cabs The end of an era in Mumbai, India, as thousands of iconic black-and-yellow cabs are set to be sent to the scrap heap. Cows Bovines are behind a bizarre Indonesian air safety incident, when a Lion Air jet skids on landing to avoid three cows on the runway, killing one beast along the way.


openings Taste of Home

Yi Sang Yi Sang – Feeling Home is the Almond Hotel Group’s third dim sum and noodle restaurant. In line with its successful roots, the new eatery’s menu is reminiscent of Yi Sang Almond, with proven bestsellers such as shrimp balls and deep-fried pork ribs with garlic taking pride of place on the menu. A wide selection of noodles, roast meats and char siew pork are also firm favourites with customers. For the sweet tooth, Yi Sang also offers a variety of specialised Cantonese/Malaysian desserts such as sesame balls, egg tarts and egg buns. “The malayko, which is a type of sponge cake made with palm sugar, is very popular in Malaysia. It is a Cantonese dessert with a Malaysian twist, and it is one of our bestsellers,” says chef Luu Meng. 156 - 157 Street 63, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 221 522, open daily from 6am to 10pm.

Book Marked

New Leaf Book Café

Book worms will flock to Siem Reap’s newest café with a heart — New Leaf Book Café. The airy venue, set within walking distance of Old Market, contains an events space along with a restaurant that benefits from high ceilings, soaring windows and tasteful design touches. Contemporary artworks and fish-trap lampshades decorate the downstairs eatery, where home-made Khmer and Western dishes, including fish amok and calamari, are offered. But the main attraction is the copious book shelves that line the walls. Around 3,000 books have been donated to New Leaf, which ploughs its profits back to local good causes. Customers can browse the tomes or buy one to take home, together with an NGO bookmark or notepad. Behind the Angkor Trade Centre, 75 metres east of Old Market, Siem Reap. Tel: 063 766 016, open from 7.30am to 9.30pm daily.

¡Hola amigos!

Sunrise TacoS A colourful taste of Mexico has landed in the capital in the form of Bangkok-born brand Sunrise Tacos. The franchise recently opened its doors in Phnom Penh and is already bursting at the seams. Boasting all the usual Mexican offerings, from nachos to enchiladas and burritos, the menu contains more than 60 items. Managing director Kevin Goos says, "This is a place where people can meet and get some great food and have a conversation and some fun." The décor follows the fun theme with a light purple, yellow and deep blue colour scheme, giving the intimate venue a cosy feel. Bargain hunters can snap up deals, with all-you-can-eat tacos from 2pm to 6pm on Tuesday and Friday, while condiment lovers can tuck into 12 different varieties of salsa provided at an in-house bar. 171 Street 63, Phnom Penh. Tel: 077 854 545, open daily from 10am to 11pm.

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The muffin mEn

Mumoo's

Mouth-watering muffins and indulgent milkshakes are among the treats on offer at cosy café Mumoo's. Connected to the newly-opened bar Emergency Room on Street 240½, the eatery’s two compact rooms are stylish yet homely. The calming green décor is matched with wooden benches, hessian-covered seats, mountains of sweet and savoury muffins ($3.50 to $4) plus a variety of tea and coffee. Culinary creativity is key, as baked goods include a delicious feta, spinach and polenta muffin, a tomato, basil and chilli option, as well as indulgent sweet versions packed with peanut butter. Freshness is clearly a priority, as all muffins are baked each day. Stop by between 4pm and 6pm to pick up one at a discounted price of $2. Street 240½, Phnom Penh. Tel: 016 620 908, open Tuesday to Sunday from 8am to 6pm.

Conor Wall

A Family Affair

Chanrey Tree Family recipes passed down through generations are hoped to be a key ingredient of Chanrey Tree’s success, says owner Kann Soann. The menu at the super-chic Siem Reap restaurant boasts a sumptuous array of traditional Khmer dishes with a modern twist. "My father was the village chef and has given me some family recipes to use on the menu, which is fantastic,” says Kann. “The natant sauce with crispy sticky rice is cooked from a family recipe and it's delicious." Another signature dish is frog legs braised in caramelised palm sugar. Set across two floors, Chanrey Tree oozes style with lush tropical gardens, downstairs al fresco dining and a room with air conditioning upstairs. The mansion has a contemporary feel with giant wicker chairs and exceptional attention to detail. On the riverfront between the Old Palace and the Old Market, Siem Reap. Tel: 092 908 787, open daily from 6pm to 10pm.

Dorm Décor

Me Mates Villa

Budget backpacking has been given a face-lift thanks to the friendly and welcoming environment of one of the latest guesthouses to open in the capital. Tucked down a quiet alley behind the Royal Palace, Me Mates Villa boasts a total of six dorm rooms. At $6 per night, beds in the freshly painted rooms are a bargain. Guests can enjoy the breezy courtyard at the front of the guesthouse and a shared balcony and eating area upstairs. The bar and restaurant area is downstairs, with food served from 7am to 10pm and drinks until late. Signature dishes include the $3.50 barbecue chicken wrap and the $3.50 Khmer curry. "We also serve shishas and our own cocktail, Me Mates Cocktail, made up of Malibu and pineapple served in a hollowed out pineapple," says owner Nak Rithy. 21AB Street 184, Phnom Penh. Tel: 012 795 961.

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SERVICED LIVING

Koki Tree

Offering serviced apartments for both short and long stays, Koki Tree can provide good accommodation options for travelling families, or those visiting friends or family members who live in Phnom Penh. A central office is set on Street 130, but apartments are located across town and range in size from 50 to 120 square metres. They are fully equipped with kitchens, a laundry and cleaning service, coffee machines and 24-hour security. A selection of the one- and twobedroom apartments have balconies, while spaces — some decorated in a minimalist white colour scheme with clever design touches — can also be provided on a per night basis, as an alternative hotel option. 50-52 Street 130, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 214 233, www.kokitree.com.

Seasonal Style

July Salon and Spa Looking good just got a lot easier after a popular salon relocated to bigger and better premises. July Salon and Spa has moved from its home of four years on Sihanouk Boulevard to open in plush new location on Sothearos. Specilaising in hair, nails, make-up and spa treatments, the salon is kitted out in monochrome, with the serene spa area decorated in a more mellow colour scheme. Men's haircuts start at $8 and women's from $15 to $25, with colouring between $25 and $80. English and Thai is spoken in the salon, as well as Khmer. To mark its opening July is running a promotion throughout September, with 20 percent off any L'Oreal hair spa. 67 Sothearos Blvd, Phnom Penh. Tel: 077 661 318, open daily from 9am to 7pm.

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DISPATCHES

Travel news from around the region and beyond Discounting Asia

Radisson Blu is offering 30 percent off a selection of its Carlson Rezidor hotels across the Asia-Pacific region. You can try the Chongqing Shapingba hotel in China, adjacent to the Ronghui Hot Springs and at the base of Gele Mountain. Besides modern rooms, the site has a fully equipped spa and hot springs centre, four on-site restaurants and meeting room space for up to 2,000 people. Or check out the 1800s sandstone facade of the Radisson Blu Plaza Hotel in Sydney. Once home to the Fairfax newspaper empire and the Bank of New South Wales, the boutique-style property sits near the Sydney Opera House and major shopping areas. Book a deal by Sep. 20 and stay at least two consecutive nights by Dec. 30. Radissonblu.com/hotdeals-asia.

By Foot or By Bike

Khiri Travel has seven walking and cycling trips in Southeast Asia. The Phnom Penh walking tour lets guests sample street stall noodles, sweetmeats and delicacies like deep-fried spiders. The trip ends in a brewery to calm the nerves. The Phuket Old Town walking tour brings alive the Chinese clan heritage of the former tin mining island, with Sino-Portuguese architecture and mansions of old tin mining barons. Other tours go to Yangon, Chiang Mai, Bagan and Ben Tre, or take a bike ride to see the Plain of Jars in Laos. The company, which emphasises participatory and responsible travel, can be reached at enquiries@khiri.com.

A Killer Show

For a clean-cut Mormon and father, Brandon Flowers still knows how to rock. The frontman of The Killers hasn’t been shy about donning feathers or spacesuits while performing songs about disappointment and delusion, or prostitutes and neon tigers. With confusing and catchy tracks, The Killers helped revive the American rock scene after a 1990s in the doldrums. Maybe they can do something similar for Asia when they come this month. Catch them in Singapore on Sep. 21, Malaysia the next day or the Philippines on Sep. 26. Expect a high-octane concert with a white guy not afraid to dance, against a projector screen of desert scenes and unabashedly cheesy hearts. Mtvasia.com/gigguide.

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Have an event coming up? Send information and dates to maris.carruthers@gmail.com

CALENDAR PHNOM PENH SEP

Brides-to-be are in for a treat when Sofitel hotel in Phnom Penh hosts a wedding fair from 9am to 5pm on Aug. 31 and Sep. 1. Exhibitions in the Grand Ball Room will include bridal wear, menswear, jewellery, table decoration, flowers, photography, videography and music specialists. Guests will also enjoy a fashion show featuring wedding dresses. Entry is free.

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SEP

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Finding The Lost Art Forms, a multimedia exhibition showing behind-the-scenes photographs of a project looking at endangered art forms, is running at the Cambodia Living Arts (CLA) gallery at 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd until Oct. 18. Screenings of three documentaries — Classical Wedding Music, Songs for the Dead and Enchanting Sounds — will also be shown.

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Works by respected artists Lim Theam, Amy Lee Sanford and Mao Soviet are set to grace the Park Hyatt Siem Reap for the hotel’s inaugural art show. The exhibition, shown in the new hotel’s gallery space, runs until Nov. 22.

SEP

Yoga Bliss Weekend at The Vine Retreat in Kep province. Alison Hawkins will lead a relaxing weekend of yoga, fresh air, organic food and deep relaxation. $230 based on twin share for all yoga, meals, room and transport to/from Phnom Penh. Visit yogaphnompenh.com or email phnompenhyoga@gmail.com.

SEP

Full day of events at Kid’s City on Sihanouk Boulevard, from 10am to 8pm. Attractions include a barista competition at Gloria Jean’s, a quiz at the science gallery and a kid’s fashion show. For more information, visit www.kidscityasia.com.

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The Australian Embassy presents Message Stick: Indigenous Identity in Urban Australia in the downstairs gallery at Meta House until Sep. 30. Drawn from the urban art scene in Australia, the exhibition features a selection of works by artists at the forefront of contemporary arts in Australia. The show offers unique political and social perspectives of contemporary Australian history and culture.

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The Life and Nature exhibition by Chhim Sothy opens at the Insider Gallery in the InterContinental hotel. The show expresses the artist’s view of today’s world. His paintings are both an expression of struggle and a wish for peace.

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SEP

The gallery at the French Institute is set to host the opening night of the Heritage House architecture exhibition, with prizes awarded to students from 6.30pm. The 2013 architecture competition involved the creation of a ‘Heritage House’ in the former police headquarters of Phnom Penh. The show, running until Oct. 5, allows visitors to discover the ideas of a new generation of architects on the rehabilitation of the building.

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Laurence Leblanc is a decidedly contemporary photographer. For each of her photos, she takes time to observe and to mature. Her exhibit at the French Institute, called Let’s Make It Possible, evokes the nature of social exchanges among human beings and runs from Sep. 12 to Oct. 5.

SEP

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Wine and cheese night at the InterContinental hotel from 6.30pm to 9pm. Tickets cost $35 per person. The spread also features smoked salmon and oysters.

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Workshop and circus show at the French Institute from 6.30pm. Tickets will be on sale at the French Institute from Sep. 7. Please visit institutfrancais-cambodge. com for more information.

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The Australian Football League Grand Final will be screened at the InterContinental Hotel from 8.30am. A total of 30 VIP tickets are available for $100 each, with adult tickets at $60 and tickets for children aged seven to 12 at $15. Members of the Eagles team receive a $10 discount on VIP or adult tickets, while youngsters aged six or under go free. Email info@ cambodianeagles.com for more information.

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EVERY DAY

Yoga classes at Yoga Phnom Penh, close to BKK market. For more information, please visit yogaphnompenh.com or enquire at 012 739 419.

EVERY FRI. & SAT.

Cultural performance at the National Museum at 7pm. Tickets on sale at the door, price for foreign adults $12, $5 for Cambodians. For booking and information call 017 998 570 or email events@ cambodianlivingarts.org.

Kids Sessions at 2pm at The Flicks Community Movie House. $3.50 for adults, $2 for under 18. Weekend brunch at Public House on Street 240½, from 10.30am to 3pm. $25 per person including bellinis or bloody Marys, $15 per person if you’re on the wagon. Book in advance by calling: 017 770 754.

EVERY MON. — FRI.

Fishing trips on the Tonle Sap river from 3.30pm to 6.30pm. For more information, visit fishinginphnompenh. wordpress.com or email fishingboattrip@yahoo.com.

High tea at Public House on Street 204½ from 3pm to 5.30pm, with scones, finger sandwiches, sweets and tea. $9pp for high tea, $14 with a glass of sparkling wine, $30pp with a bottle and $50 with a bottle of champagne. Book for a minimum of two guests at least one day in advance on 017 770 754.

EVERY MONDAY

EVERY FRIDAY

EVERY SAT. & SUN.

Mad Monday at The Empire, 6pm. Yoga at Yoga Phnom Penh. Sweat and Samadhi at 8am, Slow Flow at 12.15pm and Deep Flow at 5.45pm. See yogaphnompenh.com

EVERY WEDNESDAY

Drink & Draw at ARTillery, 7pm. Get your creative engines going with a live model, a couple of drinks and a whole lot of creative fun. Latin Fever at The Latin Quarter. Trivia in the garden at The Willow, $2 entry and 7.30pm start. Salsa Classes at Ebony Tree on Street 29. Beginners class from 7pm to 8pm. Intermediate class from 8pm to 9pm. $5 for expats, $2.50 for locals. Salsa with DJ Jimmy at Equinox on Street 278.

EVERY THURSDAY

Open Mic at Paddy Rice Irish Sports Bar. Art House Sessions at 8.30pm at The Flicks Community Movie House. Rare art house and foreign films. Enjoy the secret treasures of the big screen for $3.50. Steak Night at The Empire. Weekly special at a big discount. Swing dancing at Equinox on Street 278, Phnom Penh. Women’s Night at The Riverhouse.

Special happy hatha yoga classes at Yoga Phnom Penh, 5.45pm discounted happy hour class. Seafood Haven at Korean Grill restaurant, NagaWorld. Korean buffet from 5.30pm to 10pm for $20 per person excluding beer, $30 per person including free flow draft beer. Tel: 023 22 88 22, www.nagaworld.com.

EVERY SATURDAY

Regular yoga workshops, Sweat and Samadhi lessons, and lunch delivery from ARTillery Cafe at Yoga Phnom Penh. For more information, please visit yogaphnompenh.com. Art classes for both children and adults at Romeet Gallery on Street 178, costing $8.50 per session or $65 for 10. All material is provided. Register interest with Sreymao at romeetgallery@gmail. com or by calling 077 55 07 59.

EVERY SUNDAY

Escape at the InterContinental hotel’s Regency Café from 11.30am to 3pm. Free-flow wine at $36 plus taxes per person. Morning meditation with Beth Goldring, a zen Buddhist nun teacher. Sessions held in a private home close to the national museum, all religions welcome. yogaphnompenh.com. Phnom Penh Hash House Harriers’ run. Meet at 2.15pm at the railway station.

asialife Cambodia 23


PHOTO ESSAY

Capital Kyoto

24 asialife Cambodia


For more than 1,000 years, Kyoto served as Japan’s imperial capital. Though the seat of power was moved to Tokyo in 1868, the city’s temples, palaces, shrines, bamboo forests, gardens and old-style neighbourhoods remain. One such neighbourhood, Gion, is home to one of Japan’s last remaining geisha districts. It is full of traditional wooden buildings, quickly moving geishas and maikos (geishas in training). Todd Brown spent nearly a week in Kyoto this summer and captured a few of the city's extraordinary sights. For more of Todd's work, visit asiamedialab.com.

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asialife Cambodia 27


Nikki George For nearly a decade, Zimbabwean Nikki George has led treks through the 96-kilometre-long Kokoda Track in Papua New Guinea. The arduous jungle route was the setting for fierce World War II battles and soars to a height of 2,190 metres. Ellie Dyer meets the adventurous tour leader at her Phnom Penh home. 28 asialife Cambodia

How did you become involved in the Kokoda Track? I was a diving instructor for 15 years in Australia and everybody was constantly talking about the dive sites in Papua New Guinea. When I got there, I thought I was going to fall into the diving side of things, but I met this lady in the gym one day who told me she was starting a trekking company. I was helping her with marketing and I just went along on a trek and said: “You know, I think I can do this.” Within a couple of months, I was leading the treks and getting very much involved in trying to understand the history and the spirit of the experience. What is the historical significance of the track? It’s World War II history. The Japanese were trying to get to Port Moresby and use its airbase to cut off Australia in 1942. After the Battle of the Coral Sea and the Battle of

Midway, they couldn’t reach it by boat, so they decided to take Port Moresby by land, which is just crazy. When you see the terrain there are no flat bits, it is all mountains. The only people who were going to stop these Japanese were the Australian reserves. They were graded ‘F’ for unfit for combat. This group of 500 men were up against 4,000 initial Japanese and they had to try and delay them as long as possible to get troops up from Australia to reinforce them. They were out there for two and a half months in the jungle in torrential rain, really bad conditions. It was about the spirit, the courage and the endurance that brought the best out of them. It could have broken them, but it didn’t. Do you feel a sense of the past on the route? It’s an incredible journey because when you are walking the track, you are walking history. Every single time you walk in these


footsteps or think oh god, I’m exhausted, you just think back to what if I’d been shot in the leg or the arm or had lost my buddy that morning. But the general beauty around is incredible. You can’t imagine that it was the site of a major battle, and that so many men lost their lives on the track. Eventually, the Japanese had to turn around — it was the first time they retreated in the Pacific War. Are a lot of people drawn to the trek because of its history? Generally, it was the first time that Australians had battled on their own soil, of course remembering that it was Australian territory in 1942. So for Australians, it’s a bit of a pilgrimage to who they are and what their culture is all about. If it wasn’t for the unity that Australians can pull together in times of difficulty, I don’t think they would have been as successful. While we are doing the trek I

usually pick out a few poems. One is ’What do you say to a dying man’ — it is incredibly emotional. Not many people walk away without a tear. How challenging is the jungle terrain? I call it the Amazon of the South Pacific. It’s thick jungle, but beautiful and scattered with stunning foliage. It’s all pinks, greens and vines draping down; waterfalls and rivers with amazing bridges put together with sticks and vines. I’ve walked it 55 times and spent more than a year in the jungle. It just keeps giving something else of itself. When I started you just couldn’t help but see the [local] kids, and learn their names. But over the 10 years that I’ve been trekking, those kids are now adults and having children of their own. One lady, her name’s Eileen, was an eight-year-old girl when I first met her. She’s just had her baby, and she’s called her Nikki, which is really sweet.

What are the biggest challenges for trekkers? People not looking after their feet is probably the biggest concern. So generally my role — other than as a medic, historian and a logistical manager — is to make sure people are aware of putting vaseline on their feet and powdering their feet at night time to dry them off. As soon as you start to get blisters and things like that, your experience can become a different one. Are there any animals to watch out for? Well, they have tree kangaroos. They look exactly like a kangaroo but they don’t have as long legs, they jump from one tree to another and come in greys, reds and oranges. The area is famous for its birds of paradise, but you don’t go there for the wildlife, as most of it’s nocturnal. Once, I came down a hill and another trekking group said I think your guys [the porters] had just killed a

cassowary. They had, because one of them had been chased up a tree by a cassowary. He broke off a branch and hit it over the head, and it fell down dead. The next thing, they’d plucked the cassowary, as all the feathers are used for headdresses. It was just like a giant chicken. After all these years, do you feel an affinity with the country? The country is spectacular… but mostly it’s wonderful and soulful because of the people. If you walk into any of the villages, you’ll see how warm the people are. They usually only have one shirt spare, but if you felt like you needed something, they’d give you anything just to keep you happy. The Papua New Guineans are the best ambassadors to promote their country. The track is best visited between August and October. For more information, visit: executiveexcellence.com.au

asialife Cambodia 29


DJ Mercy


D N SOU UND

of the

O R G R E D N U

rs, cent yea d e r in d e l tren xplod fe has e bucking a globa es the li t h ig n stigat Penh's le D Js Phnom g band of fema Carruthers inve ment, with ove oun issa with a y the decks. Mar round music m by Conor Wall. o to take t hind the underg photography b t bea e

asialife Cambodia 31


“Just take a look at what's going on tonight,” says Eddie Newman, who has been at the centre of Cambodia’s nightlife scene for seven years, while flicking through Facebook. A simple search flags up a punk night together with techno, dub-step, drum 'n' bass and rock events. “That's all in the same night here in Phnom Penh, so yeah, things have changed a lot.” While the city is still a long way from being coined a clubbing capital, there’s a buzz in the air when it comes to underground music. A gold rush of creative talent willing to steer the music market in a new direction, coupled with new nights offering diverse sounds, has edged Phnom Penh towards the epicentre of Southeast Asia’s music map. “In the next four to five years, this will definitely be the underground music centre of Asia,” predicts the Scotsman, who helped launch popular venue Pontoon and is now gearing up to open the city’s latest nightclub, Code. “It’s really bubbling and it's an exciting time.” In the last year alone, a host of new bars and clubs — from The Village to Slur Bar, Backstage and Show Box — have opened their doors. Add to that a selection of new club nights featuring genres such as drum 'n' bass, electro, techno and deep house, and you’ve got the start of something big. “It used to be that you could only hear R'n'B and hip-hop here, and there were only really a few places you could go,” Newman says. “Now there's a lot more choice. You have Backstage that just opened and Meta House putting on different nights… then DJs like Kimchi Collective and Java Tech, who are introducing new elements to Phnom Penh.”

A Woman’s World

Helping to push the boom is the fact that the burgeoning scene remains in its infancy, leaving a gap for talented amateur DJs to hone their skills in what can be, in developed countries, a hugely competitive environment. This has led to an explosion of opportunities, with women making a notable mark on the scene and bucking a global trend of men dominating the clubbing market. 32 asialife Cambodia

Lizzie Johnson, AKA Java Tech, is behind the capital’s Berlin Techno nights and believes that “there seems to be an awakening electro scene” that is growing exponentially. Before moving to Cambodia last year to work with the NGO Transparency International Cambodia, the 26-year-old Englishwoman was immersed in the thriving German underground scene. “My passion for techno grew when I was living in Berlin,” she says. “But there wasn’t much here in the way of it so I decided to put on my own night.” After learning the tricks of the trade from a local music buff, Johnson launched the Berlin Tropical night with her tutor, Julian Poluda AKA DJ Tonle Dub, and DJs Sequence and Mercy, in conjunction with the popular bar Show Box. The nights allow scores of devoted clubbers to let loose to banging techno beats and have been held at Show Box, on board a boat and in the grounds of The Governor’s House hotel. There are plans to take the taste of Berlin to the jungle and beach in the future. “It filled a void in Phnom Penh,” she says. “It’s a lot easier to bring an idea that's fairly new and make it happen. It's been great having a group of likeminded friends.” But for Johnson, who is also one half of live techno act Java and Stitch, one of the most inspiring elements of the capital’s nightlife is the number of women making musical magic. “Phnom Penh is an interesting phenomenon. In the whole time I was in Berlin, I went to many DJ parties and festivals, and during the 18 months only

“Suddenly, there were highprofile names here and that was incredible.”


asialife Cambodia 33


Feel the Beat Berlin Tropical: Electro beats and minimal techno sounds, with the occasional taste of drum ‘n’ bass thrown in for good measure, held at various venues across Phnom Penh. Drop Dead Disco: Nu disco, house and techno headed by Simon C Vent with support from Chris Rogy. Held monthly at Backstage, 377 Sisowath Quay. Tech-Penh: Minimal techno, electro and tech-house, held monthly at Meta House at 37 Sothearos Blvd. Monsoon Underground: Selection of underground sounds, from electro to drum ‘n’ bass, held monthly at Meta House at 37 Sothearos Blvd. Nova Penthouse: Music from the top clubs of Miami, London and New York at Nova on Street 214, held every other Friday.

34 asialife Cambodia

saw three female DJs. More exist but they're massively under-represented,” she says. “However, there seems to be several prominent female DJs here; definitely more than you'd expect. It's still male dominated but it's encouraging to see more women coming forward.” Mercy Ananeh-Frempong, AKA DJ Mercy, believes that the intimate size and creative vibe of the capital has given women the confidence to dabble in the club scene. “I think females with DJ skills, both established and potential, in Cambodia do not feel the intimidation of a bigger city where men often dominate in a survival-of-the-fittest state,” says the 32-year-old Ghanian, who is a freelance consultant working with grassroots NGOs.

In The Beginning

Just five years ago, Phnom Penh’s club scene was a different story. Only a select few venues were open, with most playing commercial R'n'B and hip-hop to satisfy clubbers' needs. “You had Riverhouse and Heart of Darkness and a few other places but it was fairly limited. To find any other genre of music, you'd have to set up private parties,” says Dan Beck, who is part of Kimchi Collective — an innovative DJ group that launched in the capital last year. Pontoon was one of the first clubs to attract international DJs to the city with Bert Bevans, of New York’s Studio 54 and London’s Ministry of Sound, playing in 2008. “He was the biggest thing to happen in Cambodia,” says Newman, who first made a name for himself when running the Mosquito Bar on lakeside. Pontoon became part of local legend that year when an accidental hitch led the venue, then housed on a boat on the Tonle Sap river, to sink into water with

partygoers aboard. Three months later and the club was back in business, welcoming aboard international artists such as Major Lazer and Diplo at a mooring off Koh Pich and then, in 2010, at its current landlocked home on Street 172. It continues to attract big names such as jungle giant Goldie, hip-hop pioneer Grandmaster Flash, Brit breakbeat group the Freestylers, Akil from American group Jurassic 5 and French drum 'n' bass artists Dirtyphonics. “Pontoon was the first time that Phnom Penh really saw underground music come onto the scene,” says Beck, who was involved with the club in 2008. “Suddenly, there were high-profile names here and that was incredible.”

Present Day Phnom Penh

The introduction of famous DJs and performers to Phnom Penh may have planted the city on the musical map, but a new wave of clubbing — with smaller, independent venues opening their doors — is pushing the scene forward. Kimchi Collective — made up of expats Beck, Bojan Lisac and Balazs Maar with the help of female DJ Cynthia Herman, AKA CynCity — is at its forefront, unleashing cutting edge sounds via a series of underground nights at Meta House since August 2012. “We were some of the first people to put on small independent nights away from the nightclubs where we focused on the music. This was partly because we love music and also because no one else was playing what we liked,” says Marr. “Now there seems to be more people in the city that are passionate about music and what goes into it. There are more small independent places and people are doing it because they love the music,” adds Beck. The Meta House movement has


spawned a surge of alternative nights — such as Bass Session, Tech-Penh and Monsoon Underground, which all take place at the venue monthly — giving budding DJs, including Mercy and Java Tech, the chance to perform. “It's an energy that is still growing and not fully formed yet,” says DJ Mercy. “It has to be nurtured with tact; and I believe positive collaborations can bring about the most amazing entertainment energy yet to be seen in Cambodia.”

The Future

The trend sees no sign of abating. Earlier this year, Backstage opened on the riverside, contributing to the afterhours offering and playing host to Kimchi Collective and Drop Dead Disco, led by 29-year-old Simon Ventham. The Londoner decided to launch his own tech and house night at the venue after DJing at Top Banana hostel, the Berlin Tropical boat party and the Eighty8 guesthouse. His first two Drop Dead Disco events were such a hit that Ventham, who goes under the DJ name of Simon C Vent, has plans to take it on tour to Otres in Sihanoukville, Kampot and Siem Reap. “On any given weekend night people can now go and choose between various nights, rather having only one choice or none at all,” he says. “New places like Show Box and Backstage are really pushing the movement in their own directions.” And while the underground music scene is booming among expats who are familiar with its beats, clubs are also targeting local customers. When Nova opened its doors 18 months ago, it paved the way for high-end clubbing aimed at Cambodians. “Foreigners are introducing new music, but we are in Cambodia. Playing

a lot of electro is great, because I love it, but a lot of Cambodians aren’t ready for that yet because they are not as educated in music and they’re not used to this genre,” says Marco Anthony, the club’s art director, who was born in Phnom Penh and raised in the south of France. “I wanted to provide them with a different kind of high-end experience. Changing nightlife isn’t just about changing music, it’s about the experience, the offering and the service,” he says. The designer club was one of the first local venues to create a dedicated, segregated VIP area and impose a dress code that bans flip-flops and encourages clubbers to dress up for the occasion. “I'm happy with that, it’s more exclusive and elegant and that’s what we wanted,” he adds. “For Cambodian people, I’ve seen since we opened, their style has changed and I'm happy about that.” Newman, who brought British drum ‘n’ bass legend DJ Hype to Phnom Penh last month, is also introducing a new element to Phnom Penh’s scene in the form of Code. The club is due to open this month after being hit by delays. Enforcing a semi-strict dress code, the venue will host monthly international and regional DJs and aims to cater to a wider

"There seems to be several prominent female DJs here; definitely more than you'd expect. It's still male dominated but it's encouraging to see more women coming forward.”

audience by opening as a late night bar from Sunday to Wednesday and as a club the rest of the week. With a vibrant music scene that has exploded in a short space of time, it’s little wonder there are high hopes that one day, in the not so distant future, Phnom Penh could be an underground party destination. “I can only see the scene getting bigger and bigger and hopefully soon we will have access to more big name DJs to drop in on their tours of Asia,” says Ventham. “I’d like to think that Phnom Penh can soon stand out as the underground music capital of Southeast Asia.” asialife Cambodia 35


Amazing Cambodia Ellie Dyer meets a driven student whose passion for history is allowing a new audience to appreciate images of Cambodia’s past. Hunting for historic photographs may be an unusual hobby for a young university student in bustling Phnom Penh, but for 20-yearold Sokmean Srin it’s an enduring passion that he wants to share with the nation. Despite his tender years, the affable student is the driving force behind Amazing Cambodia — a Facebook page dedicated to publishing stunning images of yesteryear, including the colonial era and pre-1975 Cambodia. Since its creation in March 2012, the page has garnered a huge fan base, with more than 18,000 ‘likes’ and a wide range of local and foreign photo contributors, including renowned 1960s film stars Dy Saveth and Virak Dara. Fascinating posts include an image of the first newspaper published in Cambodia in 1937, a colour photograph of a vintage car near Wat Phnom in the 1940s and a street barber tending a customer in 1951. But Sokmean has decided not to limit the collections to the virtual sphere. The history buff is gearing up for a new challenge: the first Amazing Cambodia exhibition, which is set to be shown at Meta House from Aug. 31 until Sep. 6. “I don’t know why I love such old stuff, when many teenagers love modern things,” says the third-year English and tourism student, while meeting AsiaLIFE during preparations for the show. “But for example, I listen to a song and then 36 asialife Cambodia

I’m curious. I want to know who the composer is, who the singer is, and then I try to find out. That’s my personality.” The focus of Amazing Cambodia’s debut show is the ‘Golden Age’ of late 1950s and 1960s Cambodian history. Images explore diverse aspects of life in the postindependence era, from film, architecture and music to historic events and landscapes. “I am really interested in this era because in Cambodian history it’s an era of development,” says Sokmean, who searches archives, old magazines and the web in order to gain permission from copyright owners to share their images online. Ultimately, he hopes that sharing interesting photographs with fellow students via social media will inspire more young people, like himself, to engage with history. Facebook can provide a link between the past and the present, he says. “Many teenagers are severely influenced by other cultures, like Korea, so that’s a big point of why I share Cambodian culture. I want them to see how amazing their country was in the past — maybe it can turn their interest,” he explains. The Amazing Cambodia photo exhibition runs until Sep. 6 at Meta House on Sothearos Boulevard. Entry is free. For more information, visit the Amazing Cambodia Facebook page or email amazing_cambodia@yahoo.com.



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the

HUNTis on

Ellie Dyer ventures out into the provinces to join a global treasure hunt. Photograph by Conor Wall. As I stared up at a large tree set in some remote fields in Kandal province, while simultaneously fending off a nest of red ants and conferring with three confused Cambodian men and a dog, I couldn’t help but wonder how this bizarre situation had come about. The day had started normally enough, until I met up with a friend who offered to take me geocaching. For the uninitiated, geocaching is a hybrid of ‘geo’, for geography, and ‘caching’, the process of hiding supplies. The phrase was coined in 2000 by Global Positioning System (GPS) users after an enthusiast, computer consultant David Ulmer, decided to test out the accuracy of the technology, and unwittingly sparked a global phenomenon. Ulmer placed a cache — consisting of a black bucket filled with prizes and a log book — in woods in Oregon, USA, and posted the coordinates of its position online. Within days, two more people had located it using GPS devices, and shared their experiences on the Internet. An explosion of similar activity followed and, soon after, geocaching.com — a website that details the coordinates of hidden caches — was born. Fast forward to 2013 and geocaching.com has become a world-wide treasure hunt. The website now details more than two million hidden caches, ranging from tiny containers, called ‘micro-caches’, to larger boxes filled with small tokens.

It provides maps and cryptic clues that enable seekers to find them. One cache has reportedly been placed beyond the Earth’s limits in a locker at the International Space Station, after astronaut Richard Garriott visited in 2008, while another lies 2,300 metres under the ocean near deep-sea hydrothermal vents. Though less extreme, Cambodia is also part of the global puzzle. At least 30 caches are logged within its borders hidden in spots that include Phnom Penh’s National Museum, Angkor Archaeological Park, Mount Kirirom, Rabbit Island and Kep National Park. But, as with any good treasure hunt, finding them is not always an easy process. One woman who knows how difficult the hunt can be is Sarah Garbutt, who has had a long-term love affair with geocaching, having looked for them deep in the English countryside as well as inside the Kingdom. “The best geocache I went to in Cambodia was in the Angkor Wat National Park,” recalls the expat, who has an app on her smartphone that details cache locations, coordinates and clues. “It was hidden in a small remote temple. The area was amazing and basically deserted, even our tuk-tuk driver was excited as he’d never been there before,” she adds. “Plus the geocache was hidden in the heart of the temple, so you felt like a bit of an explorer.”

Despite her experience, Garbutt admits she sometimes returns to a spot multiple times before finding wellhidden objects. But even if a trip to a cache bears no fruit, the journey can be an adventure in itself. Geocaches are meant to be hidden in beautiful locations or places of general interest. “The main appeal of geocaching for me is that it gives you a reason and incentive to get outdoors, walking, and it takes you to places you otherwise never would have gone. Plus who doesn't like a good treasure hunt?” she says. Geocaching in Cambodia can, however, pose unique challenges, thanks to its weather patterns and a lack of awareness of the practise in populated countryside areas. That can mean caches are removed by people not aware of their purpose or significance. “Geocaches need to be hidden in areas that will be undisturbed by people and the environment, which can be tough here in Cambodia,” explains Garbutt, who has also planted new caches in the Kingdom for others to find. “Caches are often lost to the wet season as people planting the caches have not considered the extreme rise of river levels, or predicted that the field will naturally be waterlogged in a few months,“ she adds. Back to my first experience of geocaching near Takhmao town, and I seemed to be the victim of such a fate. Despite a long and dusty journey into the fields, the

How to geocache Log on to geocaching.com and enter your location. The website will produce a list of nearby caches with varying levels of difficulty, and clues detailing how to find them. Helpful comments logged by previous users are also available. You can load a geo-caching app onto your phone that contains a map to make the search easier. Log on to the website afterwards to register your find, and if you take a small trinket from a cache, remember to add one of your own (but don’t choose anything valuable). tree where the cache is hidden appeared to be empty. My suspicion was confirmed after a petrol seller, who was aware of its hiding place and wandered over to help, and two other local well-wishers also came up empty handed. Undeterred, I ventured back into central Phnom Penh, complete with several ant bites, to try again. After de-coding a cryptic clue and some time spent pacing the streets, my luck was in. The log books of two well-hidden caches in the centre of town now bear my name. The location of the hidden boxes? Well, you’ll have to find them for yourselves. asialife Cambodia 39


Butterfly Nation

From the Birdwing to the Common Rose, Cambodia’s native butterflies are providing farmers with additional income. Words and illustrations by Natalie Phillips. “Literature and butterflies are the two sweetest passions known to man.” So wrote Vladimir Nabokov, the infamous author of Lolita who made stories of passion his life’s work. Those who share the Russian writer ’s fervor for lepidoptery will find no shortage of inspiration in the Kingdom. Butterfly-themed attractions have been popping up all over Cambodia in recent years, from the Banteay Srey Butterfly Centre and Butterflies Garden Restaurant in Siem Reap province, to the Kep Butterfly Farm on the south coast. Even the capital’s Dreamland Amusement Park hosts a small insect house amidst its roller coasters. “Cambodia’s got a very large diversity of good local butterflies,” says Scotsman Ben Hayes, co-founder of the Banteay Srey Butterfly Centre, located about 25 kilometres north of Siem Reap town. “It’s not just about colouration. There are ones that are fascinating in terms of life cycle, or because they only have one particular food plant. The Birdwing is impressive just because of its size. You’ve also got mimics that copy other butterflies.” Hayes — who was previously involved with East Africa’s Zanzibar Butterfly Centre, after working as a field biologist in the forests of Tanzania — started the Banteay Srey attraction in 40 asialife Cambodia

2009, along with Cambodian Thoung Chantha and Englishman Mike Baltzer. “We thought the idea might be replicable in Cambodia, both for tourism and poverty alleviation in alternative livelihoods,” he says. The centre trains farmers living around Phnom Kulen National Park and Siem Reap in butterfly-raising techniques. This mutually beneficial relationship supplies the centre with a steady supply of butterflies and showier moths, while providing farmers with supplemental income. “Initially they get the butterflies from us or they catch them from the wild, just as first-time breeding stock,” Hayes says. “Then once the butterflies mate, they lay their eggs on the food plants within a breeding cage. When the eggs hatch out, the farmers keep feeding the caterpillars leaves once or twice a day.” Caterpillars are finicky creatures that will only eat the leaves of specific host plants. Given a choice between the wrong leaf and starvation, a caterpillar will always take the latter. Preferences vary: the black and pink Common Rose caterpillar worships the Dutchman’s Pipe vine, while the speckled Leopard Lacewing has eyes only for Passionflowers. Eventually, they form into a pupa or chrysalis, which can be soft and tender one day and hard the next. Once

hardened it can be handled, and even shipped in the mail. At this stage of development, the farmers sell the pupa to the Banteay Srey centre to be hatched in-house. The winged beauties are almost tragically short-lived, with many species only surviving for 15 to 40 days. The Indian Moon Moth, along with other moths in the Saturnid family, lacks a digestive system and lives for a week or less. This short life span works to the advantage of butterfly farmers, as it guarantees regular demand. “Butterfly farming is not a sole income for people, but they can do it part-time with other things. Women can do it and mix it with childcare,” says Hayes. “You get people who work quite hard at it, who target the high value species. We’ve had people earn more than $200 on a monthly basis, so considerably more than the local income. Some people just do it bit by bit, for an extra $30 or $40 dollars a month.” As with tourists, there are more butterflies in Siem Reap during peak season, explains centre manager Lux Phem, who prefers working at the “quiet” farm compared to his previous job as a bartender. “During the rainy season, we only have about 12 or 15 species,” he says. “In November and December, we have a lot of species, about 30. It’s not very hot and not very cold, it’s good weather for the butterflies.”

As well as supplying local demand — around 100 pupa are sold every 10 days to the Butterflies Garden Restaurant in Siem Reap, where diners eat in a net-enclosed restaurant as butterflies flutter about — there are also potential opportunities abroad. The Banteay Srey centre is in the process of gaining an export licence in order to sell pupa to international customers, such as zoos or other exhibitors. While some see butterflies primarily as a sustainable business opportunity, others simply want to share their love of the insects with the general public. Last year, former veterinarian George Maurice, who hails from Rhode Island in the United States, opened the Kep Butterfly Farm. The retiree pays former tuk-tuk driver and construction worker Seng Eight a monthly stipend to breed and maintain the butterfly garden, located on a stream near the Jasmine Valley Eco-Resort. Entry is currently free. “My boss is nearly 87 years old, he doesn’t want to charge people. It’s just fun for him,” Seng Eight says. “The first time that I met George, I was not so interested in raising butterflies because my skills are just construction. But now I want to make sure people know how there are many different kinds of butterflies, an important thing to have in the ecosystem.”


“Butterfly farming is not a sole income for people, but they can do it part-time with other things. Women can do it and mix it with childcare.� Chan Rothana (right) with one of his students.

Pictured: Leopard Lacewing butterfly asialife Cambodia 41


Her mother quits partway through, but Dana Filek-Gibson bikes on to keep up with her sadistically inexhaustible father in the perilous cliffs of Vietnam’s northwest.

In every town, in every province, we leave the locals both confused and impressed. “Khoe!” they exclaim, pointing to my parents and their mudsplattered bicycles. The men, cigarettes dangling from their mouths, squeeze our tyres and click our gears. Children stare at us through their mothers' legs, bewildered. Ever since we left Hanoi, the three of us have become increasingly popular: me, a Vietnamese-speaking foreigner, and my parents, a couple of old folks on two wheels. Out here, where people live on sloping mountainsides or perilously close to cliffs, it's not every day you see another human being — let alone a westerner — roll by on a push-bike. You're more likely to find boys 42 asialife Cambodia

leading buffaloes into the fields or women carrying baskets, thick leather straps across their foreheads, as they wander out of the dense forest. On Highway 6 heading west to the Lao border, bicycles rarely make an appearance. The Northwest Loop, a circuit running out of Hanoi toward Dien Bien Phu and then north to Sapa, is a world apart from the chaos of urban Vietnam. Full of winding mountain roads and wide river valleys, this region holds some of the most breathtaking and challenging terrain the country has to offer. For my father, it is exactly what heaven looks like. An Ironman triathlete and general fitness addict, he practically squeals with joy as we ascend


Pha Din Pass, a never-ending, shadeless uphill that takes us 1,600 metres above sea level. When we run out of water halfway up the 16-kilometre climb, my father can barely conceal a smile as he beams, “Well, there's no turning back now!” My mother, on the other hand, isn't exactly thrilled. The cycling would be manageable, she insists, if it weren't for all the hills. Guardrails are nonexistent, unless you count the occasional concrete post sticking out of the grass, inches away from the edge. An equally vertical rock face on the opposite side of the road is forever under construction, men with jackhammers raining down chunks of stone upon us. After years of living in jampacked cities, I find the northwest Vietnam's larger-than-life landscapes almost otherworldly. You'll be hard-pressed to locate amenities like English speakers or functional showers, but that is part of the appeal. As we move out of Hanoi toward Mai Chau, a small community shielded by limestone karsts, local ethnic Thai women begin to appear in greater numbers, their hair piled high atop their heads. Old men in berets smoke massive wooden thuoc Lao pipes. We whiz downhill around tight curves and back to sea level, breathless as we take on the next dramatic climb towards Tuan Giao. On our final day before Sapa, we stop in Tam Duong. Even from a distance, Tram Ton Pass appears to be a wall of earth, looming large above the tiny village. My mother takes one look at tomorrow's route and refuses. We put her on a bus in the morning and I head out with my father. It's a 25-kilometre ride up to the highest point. With every switchback a new waterfall appears, charging under the asphalt, which is somehow attached to this mountain and yet still able to make space for running water. The odd truck passes, groaning and screeching its way skyward, dangerously close to both me and the edge of a cliff. None of it seems real — the mountains, the rivers, the

dark snake of a road winding forward and up — but for the shadow of my father in the distance. After 11 straight days of riding, my quads are killing me. I've become comfortable with the dirt and the snail's pace at which I'm crawling up this hill. But being alone in these hills, trying to find the sky beyond every turn, makes me feel I've left Vietnam completely. I catch up with my father just as he's leaning his bike against a post. A group of men sit inside the tarpaulin cave someone has erected at the edge of the road. They’ve been staring ever since a sweaty, dirty six-foot-two foreign man rolled into their line of sight. Only now, as we turn and acknowledge them, a plastic jug of rice wine is extracted from between them to the tune of several hellos and a lot of laughter. “It's freezing,” I say. Stuck in the middle of a cloud, the temperature has been steadily dropping since the sun abandoned us a few kilometres below. My legs cramp as we sit, protesting the ride, and even my father winces a little as he lowers himself onto a miniature stool beside the fire. Shots are poured, and after a couple rounds of no-I-couldn't we agree to one apiece. Without the word for “summit”, it takes us a few tries, but eventually everyone understands that I want to know where the top of this godforsaken hill is. A moment of silence passes between us, and then the men break into laughter as the lone woman replies, smiling: “You're already here.” Once I translate for my father, he is happy, too. I pump my fists and shout for joy, the only person in the tent excited by the news. Someone offers me barbecued meat, and even though I see the crisp, curled foot of what might be a pigeon attached to the morsel, I pretend not to notice and devour the snack. My father suggests we keep going so my mother isn't left alone for an entire day. In minutes we are gone, thanking everyone, cresting the top of the 2,000-metre pass, and sliding our way out of the cloud and back to Vietnam.

Photos by Dana Filek-Gibson

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Slow Boat

Laos

Through

Mark Bibby Jackson takes a boat along the Mekong through northern Laos towards the former capital of Luang Prabang. There is something about a boat trip, like a railway journey, that has etched itself upon our collective psyche. From Conrad to Coppola, men have compared river voyages with our passage through life — a slow process of self-discovery. I am no exception to this rule; given the choice I will always travel by boat through Southeast Asia, although I fear I have yet to discover myself. Sleepy Houy Xay in Northern Laos, close to the Thai border, is a launch-pad for cruises heading down the Mekong to the idyllic city of Luang Prabang, and somehow seems to have missed out on the region’s tourist bubble. A few stores cling to a solitary road, interspersed with basic hotels and restaurants catering for those travellers adventurous enough to take the boat downstream. 44 asialife Cambodia

I had arrived there the previous evening, crossing No Man’s River from the Thai town of Chiang Khong on a motorbike engine powered narrow boat, and had to ask directions to my hotel. There was no horde of locals offering to take me to cheap accommodation. Instead I dragged my case up the short hill and around the corner to the functional Riverside Hotel, where a cold bottle of Beer Lao allowed me to watch the sun slip behind the mighty Mekong. From Houy Xay visitors can choose between a fast or slow boat to Luang Prabang. Ours is slow. The 340-kilometre-long trip will take our small group — myself and three European tourists — two days of drifting across dry season shallows until we eventually end up in the former Laotian capital. Even for slow boats, the

Luay Say Lodge cruise proves particularly slow. More like a tug than the traditional narrow wooden boats that plough the river, we are passed on several occasions. But it is built of solid metal, something I find reassuring as we pass close to the jagged rocks. Swirling eddies remind me of the dangers that lie below. They have accounted for the loss of many a life over the years and, right on cue, a fast boat speeds past us, its passengers wearing crash helmets. There seem to be more motorbike helmets on the waters of the Mekong than on the streets of Phnom Penh after dark. Standing at the front of the boat, it’s hard not to imagine myself in a scene from Coppola’s Apocalypse Now and the temptation to play The Doors on my iPod proves irresistible.


Shortly after leaving Houy Xay, we pass a bridge under construction. Supposed to be completed on 12/12/12, our guide, Say Moua, says it’s now unlikely to be completed before the last quarter of 2013. Eventually, it will provide a road link between Thailand and Laos, which should help both trade and tourism. What effect it will have on the many families who rely upon the river trade between the two countries for their livelihoods is a moot point. The river changes as it meanders its way south. At times, the adjoining forest seems quite dense, at others it has been eroded by the extensive logging that accompanies progress. As the sun begins to set, the people who depend on the river become more apparent. Some wash clothes in the waters or bathe, others are panning for gold. There is always a herd of water buffalo wallowing somewhere nearby.

We wake to find a layer of mist covering the mountains in the distance, adding to the sense of tranquility that engulfs the place like a cloud.

We spend the night in the luxurious Luang Say Lodge, a kilometre north of the town of Pakbeng. Roughly equidistant between Houy Xay and Luang Prabang, Pakbeng is spreading along the river’s banks to accommodate the guest houses that cater for an increasing number of travellers choosing this route along the Mekong. The sound of the jungle comes as a welcome relief from the incessant humming of our engine. Crickets and frogs join in the evening chorus and the view from our lofty location at Laung Say is quite lovely. Both the restaurant and rooms benefit

from sweeping vistas, and we can see down to the now calm river below. To the right, there is a most majestic sunset, as Helios douses its flames in the waters. As the darkness draws in, the absence of humanity allows us to enjoy a glorious starry night. We wake to find a layer of mist covering the mountains in the distance, adding to the sense of tranquility that engulfs the place like a cloud. It is also quite chilly, something I have never before associated with travelling in Southeast Asia. The next day, we stop at Bor — a model village, according to its signpost. The contrast between this Buddhist village, populated by the Lao Loum tribe, and the animist Kamu village of Houy Phalam that we had visited the previous day could hardly be more marked, despite both being roughly the same size. Yesterday, people sat around

allowing us to go about our own business. A small group of children huddled around a laptop outside the one village shop. Today, women lie in wait for us, silk scarves lying in front of them. I know which model I prefer, although at least these women do have a supplementary income. During the afternoon our boat pulls alongside the Pak Ou caves, but I yearn to return to our comfortable boat even before I climb the steps to see the thousands of images of Buddha left here by previous travellers to be blessed. The sun is setting once more as we arrive at our destination. So often in journeys it is the getting there that counts, but Luang Prabang — surely one of the most beautiful cities in Southeast Asia — is an exception to this rule. Despite this I am still reluctant to leave my boat. Clearly there is much I still have to learn about myself. asialife Cambodia 45


Born into the Thai Royal family, ML Sirichalerm Svasti, known as Chef McDang, grew up in a Bangkok palace and has gone on to become one of Thailand’s most famous celebrity chefs. Ellie Dyer caught up with the forthright food expert on a recent visit to Phnom Penh. Photograph by Charles Fox.


"Meeting people, travelling, eating great food — what can be better than that? It’s better than sex."

With his multi-coloured hair, natural charisma and honest opinions, Chef McDang — once dubbed the Thai equivalent of Gordon Ramsay (but more courteous) by an Australian newspaper — is a force to be reckoned with. The expert in Thai cuisine, who studied at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America, is now bringing his knife skills to Cambodia, by helping Metro review its menu prior to the launch of a new restaurant, Metro Azura in Toul Kork, later this year. AsiaLIFE got him away from the frying pan, and into the fire, to grill him on the secrets of Thai cookery.

AL: What inspired you to become a chef?

CM: More than anything else in the world, my father is probably the person who really is the driving force. He’s the one I try to emulate. He’s the one I try to be. Ever since I was born, my father [respected gourmand MR Thanadsri Svasti ] was the most famous man in Thailand, and he still is. There is no one in Thailand who doesn’t know who he is. My father is an aristocrat. We are blessed and cursed by being born into a palace. My great-aunt was Her Majesty Queen Rambhai, [wife] of His Majesty King Rama VII — the last absolute monarch of Thailand.

AL: You grew up in a palace and went on to study at Georgetown University, when did you first consider cooking as a career?

CM: After about three years at Georgetown, there was one woman — you probably know her very well — on television. Her name was Julia Child. I spent most of my time watching Julia. I bought both her books and I started doing dinner parties, because I was a nice rich kid who could afford a lot of things. One summer I went to the beach and started having parties, and my all friends said to me “You know, you’re very good at this, don’t you want to cook for a living?” A restaurant wanted a lunch cook... I went to the interview and I got the job. I remember the first day I worked. It was like someone took me into a room that didn’t have any lights on, and all of a sudden this light was switched on. I just said: “Wow, man, I belong here.”

AL: You’ve since written cookery books, columns, starred in TV shows and met Chef Gordon Ramsay. What was that like? CM: He is a person who is a passionate about what he does. And I’d rather not meet anybody who is like a wet towel. I want to meet real people. Be passionate about the things that you do, be creative. Meeting people, travelling, eating great food — what can be better than that? It’s better than sex.

AL: What is the key to Thai cuisine?

CM: Most people think of Thai cookery as remembering recipes. Any kind of cuisine in the world has structure, has history and

has a profile. Therefore you have to identify those profiles, those structures and the system of how to cook first, and understand the history of our cuisine first before you can start cooking Thai. I just want to know how many Thais really know Thai food. Do they know that we never had chilli peppers before the Portuguese came in the 1600s? Before that there was no heat, there were peppercorns.

AL: What should chefs do to better understand Thai cuisine?

CM: For one thing they need to read my book [The Principles of Thai Cookery], then come to Thailand and go in the countryside and understand the ingredients, how people live and the culture. If you understand it, you can come up with great recipes. There are no’s. Thai salad dressing has no oil. You put something like that in there, then I’ll throw it out of a window. It’s not Thai.

AL: Where should visitors to Thailand go to taste authentic cuisine?

CM: The street food is better than the food in the hotel. But for traditional food, you have to go outside Bangkok. But there are some restaurants in Bangkok that serve really good, traditional Thai food. One is called Nud Pop, the other one is by the river near King Rama IV Bridge. It’s called Hong Seng.

AL: What makes such traditional food stand out?

CM: The way they cook it, the way they use the ingredients, and the way they don’t screw it up or do not have a balance in flavours. Green chicken curry — in Thai, it’s called khao kaeng. Khao is green, kaeng is sweet, so [some people] pour in about three bucket of sugar in there and you get a green curry syrup. They don’t have a brain. It’s supposed to be sweet from the sweetness of the coconut milk, and the balance is between the saltiness of the fish sauce and the palm sugar.

AL: Is balance important for Thai food?

CM: Thai food has three flavours that are very important: sweet, sour and salty. The sweetness comes from palm sugar or coconut sugar. The sourness is always natural: tamarind juice, lime juice, green mango and other kinds of sour fruits. The saltiness comes from fish sauce or salt. [Another] rule is that [unless it’s an infusion soup] you cannot cook Thai food without a paste. You take a mortar and pestle, and pound ingredients up. What ingredients do you need for a paste? There are only nine: galangal, lemongrass, kaffir lime, kaffir lime rind, shallots, garlic, coriander roots, white peppercorn, chilli peppers.

AL: Do you get angry when you people add extra ingredients?

CM: No, if they can explain to me why. But you know, with this big mouth, they always say: “Oh Jesus Christ, he’s going to give us hell again.” asialife Cambodia 47


The Common Tiger Chef Timothy Bruyns has a dynamic character that is mirrored in his restaurant. Having skipped from South Africa’s luxury Singita Safari park to the Seychelles’ North Island and Cambodia’s own Song Saa resort, the 32-year-old has landed in Phnom Penh to establish The Common Tiger together with his songstress partner Christina Thomas. The eatery features an often changing menu inspired by an eclectic combination of factors, from Daft Punk’s latest album (which Bruyns claims is perfect music for musing on food) to discoveries from local markets. Quotes from Hunter S. Thompson and other writers that Bruyns feels akin to serve as a written prelude to each menu. “Nothing here is static, but the focus is always on 48 asialife Cambodia

flavour, and everything else is a by-product of that,” says the South African chef, who juxtaposes Western cultural references with Southeast Asian-inspired cuisine. The chef believes that food is one of the most basic elements that satisfies people on an emotional level, and puts such beliefs into practice. “Our food has to stimulate every sense, from sight to sound to smell, but the taste has to be the thing that makes people happy,” he says. The compact menu emphasises playful culinary compositions together with local ingredients. Dishes at the time of AsiaLIFE’s visit included wild mushroom panna cotta with poached chicken boudin ($8), and seared beef carpaccio with banana heart ($13). But even a seemingly simple meal may

Writer Amanda Saxton and photographer Charles Fox meet the man behind the innovative The Common Tiger restaurant. contain elements subjected to days of smoking, months of curing, or that have been cooked sous-vide. Other dishes have been deconstructed into separate components. Along with complex dishes, The Common Tiger also offers a section of “simpler stuff”, including scrambled eggs with home-cured bacon ($6.50) that Bruyns promises is the creamiest in Phnom Penh. Even bread and jam is taken to another level, with tomatovanilla jam that resounds around the mouth with a smoky spiced tang spread on freshly-baked focaccia ($4). The chocolate brownie ($4.50) has a satisfying initial crunch before melting into gooey goodness upon the tongue. Despite his modern culinary techniques and a staunch commitment to quality, Bruyns shies away from

labels such as fine dining and molecular gastronomy. Instead he describes an experience at The Common Tiger as: “Simply good food with attention to detail in an environment that’s comfortable, that’s relaxed”. The attention to detail extends to the restaurant’s beautiful furniture. Tailormade by a local craftsman, the pieces are a hybrid of antiques seen in markets and modern furniture admired on the Internet. Bruyns’ brother designed the interior with exposed bricks and high ceilings. Such structural aspects provide a sophisticated environment that, like Bruyns himself, remains free from pretentions. 20 Street 294, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 212 917. Open daily from 12pm to 3pm and from 7pm to 9.30pm.


St 63 Wander down bustling Street 63 and you may just miss the small restaurant that takes its name from its location. With minimalist white décor, basic wooden furniture and a small concrete bar, the compact shophouse eatery set in the heart of Phnom Penh’s BKK1 area is keeping things simple. Yet the unassuming outlet, called St 63, is fast becoming a popular lunch and supper spot in the capital, winning regular customers and rave reviews on TripAdvisor. The feat is made all the more impressive by the fact that competition is growing daily on the major thoroughfare, where a slew of venues have opened this year alone. We visited on a Monday lunchtime and found St 63 pumping with office workers, no doubt drawn by its cheap menu, with main courses

A popular spot offering diverse, affordable food is creating a buzz. Ellie Dyer and photographer Charles Fox check it out. priced from $2 up. First up was the $3 trei chien (fried fish) with tamarind sauce, which came surrounded by a mound of rice, steamed water spinach, cucumber and tomato. The small portion of tender white fish had a pleasing golden crust, but our decision to lather the saucer of sauce over the top was a mistake. The very salty, slightly sour, tamarind overpowered the delicate seafood. It’s best kept as a dipping sauce — as perhaps the chef had intended. All in all it was a solid start, but not a stand-out dish. This all changed with the pomelo salad, well-priced at $2, which arrived next. A generous helping of very juicy, slightly acidic citrus was balanced perfectly with Thai basil, prawns, peanuts and small slices of garlic, creating the highlight of the lunch. The

separate ingredients combined to create a fresh, zingy and very moreish dish. The $2 banana blossom salad nearly lived up to its predecessor, but slightly lacked in flavour. Though benefiting from its liberal portion size and crunchy blossom strips, an extra squeeze of lime or a sprinkle of chilli would have brought it to life. Another main, the beef char kdaeo with rice, was much better and also excellent value at $2. Though the portion was modest, the thin slices of stir-fried meat were melt-inthe-mouth tender and came doused with lashings of vibrant lemongrass and hot basil. This well-spiced dish scored high on both value and taste. Given the dizzying size of the menu, we couldn’t leave without sampling one of its European dishes — namely a

$6 pizza, intriguingly called the ‘Cambodian Update.’ Italians may quibble whether their famous offering needs a Southeast Asian revision, but St 63 — considering it specialises in Cambodian cuisine — did a solid, if rather middle-of-theroad, job. A large floury base was topped with handfuls of ham, cheese, peppers and mushroom, but the overall effect was let down by an extremely overcooked, crumbly egg that lay in the pizza’s centre, plus the length of time it took to get to the table. Overall, St 63 offers excellent value for money and some sound dishes, though its strength lies firmly with Cambodian fare. It’s a good spot for a simple meal and, with $0.50 beers and $2.50 cocktails, a drink or three. 179Eo Street 63, BBK1, Phnom Penh. Tel: 015 647 062. asialife Cambodia 49


Krishna Adithya

50 asialife Cambodia


BEHIND the

DESIGN

PARK HYATT SIEM REAP

Many remember the clean lines and monochrome colour scheme of Siem Reap’s Hotel de la Paix, which for many years proved a focal point for style in Cambodia’s temple town. But last month, the building was reborn. After shuttering its doors for a year, the space reopened under the Park Hyatt brand, and although the innate sense of style remains, its aesthetic couldn’t be more different. Much like a Cambodian Alice in Wonderland, the global hotel group has jumped down a rabbit hole by employing renowned designer Bill Bensley to create a whimsical concept, rooted in Khmer culture, which plays with the idea of scale. “The concept is to create a homey estate of French-Khmer ancestry that is filled to the brim with interesting Khmer and French art and artefacts,” explains the designer. Gone is de la Paix’s stark white gallery space and in its place stands a cosy elephantinspired living room, decorated in dark woods and tones of pink. Look carefully and pachyderm touches resonate throughout. The hanging lights and wooden shapes set on soaring stand-alone bookshelves echo ears and trunks; while a bar table has been made from four enormous ivory tusks. “I often play with scale, to make guests feel small, but

this is the first time I have used elephant book cases,” says Bensley, adding that the animals used to be a symbol of power and respect in Cambodia. Standing on one wall are models, made by Bensley, portraying two homes that were used to keep royal elephants. Nearby, a new exterior deck overlooks the wizened tree that remains in the hotel’s centre. Here a line of giant metallic earlike fans gently wave from the ceiling, cooling guests sitting on the sleek seating below. The hotel’s design is undoubtedly Khmer inspired, but it also fits well with the Park Hyatt brand’s motto that “luxury is personal.” With the addition of a warm colour palette and new spaces in which visitors can relax, Bensley has created a comfortable, residential feel. Upstairs, intimate library areas have been created around the edge of the hotel’s central tower. Bedrooms are now decorated in a warm yellow and wood theme, which continues to the popular café-conservatory downstairs. Re-named the Glasshouse, shelves of freshly-baked bread dot the eatery’s interior, along with several large birdcages. It’s such unexpected touches that come together to create another unique design space that Siem Reap can enjoy. Words by Ellie Dyer asialife Cambodia 51



on the flip side


Vest, Singlet: Paperdolls Earring: BFeathered Denim Shorts: Javo's Sunglasses, Skateboard: The Skate Shop Previous Page Denim Jacket: Javo's T-shirt, Necklace, Skirt, Shoes: Paperdolls

54 asialife Cambodia


On Her Scarf, Lace Singlet, Earrings, Skirt: Paperdolls On Him Cap, T-shirt: The Skate Shop


Skirt, Singlet, Necklace: Paperdolls Feather Earring: BFeathered Hair and makeup: Ryan@The Dollhouse Styling: Ryan@The Dollhouse Model: Lucia Jahn Photographer: Charles Fox Location: The Skate Shop Phnom Penh

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Listings

hotel & travel Airlines & Agencies

Air Asia Domestic Terminal Arrival Office NºA17, Phnom Penh International Airport Tel: 023 890 035 Asiana Airlines Room A16 at Phnom Penh International Airport. Tel: 023 890 441 Bangkok Airways #61A, Street 214, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 722 545 Cambodia Angkor Air Branch Office in Phnom Penh #206A Preah Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 6666 788 Cebu Pacific Air No. 333B, Preah Monivong Blvd, Sangkat Orussey 4, Khan 7 Makara, 12257 Phnom Penh Tel: 023 219 161 China Airlines #32, Preah Norodom Blvd, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 222 056

China Eastern No. 68, st. 606, Sangkat Beung Kak 2, Khan Toul Kork, Phnom Penh Tel: 016 985 668 #304, Steung Thmey Village, Siem Reap Tel: 063 965 229 China Southern Room F-G-H-I,Ground floor Nº53, Phnom Penh Hotel, Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 424 588 DragonAir #168, Monireth Boulevard, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 424 300 Eva Air Suite 11-14B, Street 205, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 219 911 Jet Star Asia #333B, Monivong Blvd., Phnom Penh Tel: 023 220 909 Korean Air #254, R03, Monivong Blvd., Phnom Penh Tel: 023 2240 47-49 Lao Airlines #58B, Preah Sihanouk Blvd., Phnom Penh Tel: 023 222 956 Malaysia Airlines #35-37, Street 214, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 218 923-924 Myanmar Airways International No. 90-94Eo, Charles de Gaulle (St. 217), 12257 Phnom Penh Tel: 023 866 404

Qatar Airways Ground floor, Intercontinental Hotel, Phnom Penh. www.qatarairways.com Skywing Asia Airlines IOC buld, Monivong Blvd, Beoung Riang, Doun Penh Tel: 023 217130 Silk Air Regency Complex C, Suite 2-4 Samdach, Monireth Blvd, S.k. Tomnoubteouk, Khan Chamkarmorn Tel: 023 988 629 Thai Airways #294, Mao Tse Toung Blvd., Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 214 359 Tiger Airways No. 296, Mao Tse Toung (St. 245), Intercontinental Hotel, Suit 16B, 12306 Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 5515 888 Vietnam Airlines #41, Street 214, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 215 998

Battambang

La Villa 185 Pom Romchek 5 Tel: 017 411 880 / 053 730 151, lavilla.battambang@gmail.com, www.lavilla-battambang.com Beautifully restored 1930s colonial house with six rooms is the premium hotel in the country’s second city and with an excellent kitchen and bar. Riverside Balcony Bar & Restaurant West bank of river. Tel: 012 437 421

Traditional wooden house with great views of the river and good food, ideal for a sunset cocktail lounging over the river. Open Tues – Sun, 4pm - 11pm.

Kampot

Blissful Guest House Tel: 012 848 390 www.blissfulguesthouse.com Small guest house, with 18 rooms, set in guest house street with downstairs garden bar and restaurant and bar, Sunday roast, home-baked bread. Bokor Mountain Lodge Riverfront Tel: 033 932 314 / 017 712 062 www.bokorlodge.com Beautiful French colonial building situated on riverfront with well-fitted air-conditioned rooms. Has a good restaurant and bar. Epic Arts Café Old Market Street Employing deaf staff, this café next to the old market has a good range of bagels, shakes, brownies and coffee. Is also the centre for the community arts programme. Open from 7am - 6pm. Les Manguiers 2km north of Kampot Tel: 092 330 050 Small resort with bungalows and rooms set in beautiful gardens overlooking the river with a restaurant which has daily changing, freshly prepared food.

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Mea Culpa 44 Sovansokar Tel: 012 504 769 meaculpakampot@gmail.com Accommodation established by the former manager of Bokor Mountain Lodge set in the French Quarter. Six rooms have air con, hot water, DVD and TV. The large garden has a patio pizzeria and bar. Nataya Coral Bay Resort Prek Ampil, Kampot, Tel: 016 226 471 / 012 902 823. natayaresort@yahoo.com Only 16km from Kampot, this topend hideaway comes complete with eight beachfront bungalows, a 25m infinity pool, a 2km private beach, stilt huts off a 300m pier, and simply oodles of relaxation. Rikitikitavi Riverfront Tel: 012 274 820 / 012 235 102 www.rikitikitavi-kampot.com Western food served in large portions in this river-facing restaurant, bar and three-room guesthouse. A more upmarket venue for Kampot, the upstairs seating affords great sunset views. Restaurant and bar open 7 days a week. Rusty Keyhole Riverfront This British pub is the place for expats to chew the fat over a pint.

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Friendly British owner has recreated the atmosphere of a rural pub in outer Kampot, or at least as close as it gets. The ribs remain as good as ever. Open 8.30am until midnight.

Kep

Breezes Route 33. Tel: 097 675 9072 Situated on the main coast road about halfway between Kep Beach and the ferry to Rabbit Island, this stylish restaurant and lounge is located right by the sea in a green, wooded area. The food is a fusion of Asian and western with a focus on small dishes with plenty of seafood. Free pick-up and return to Kep hotels. Kep Lodge Tel: 092 435 330. www.keplodge.com Nestled just below the calm Kep National Park, this boutique resort offers only 10 standard and luxury bungalows, all with private balcony, hot water and sea view. The comfortable restaurant pampers you with local and Swiss specialties and the lively bar. The beautiful infinity salt water pool has one of the best views in Kep and is the perfect place for a sunset. Knai Bang Chatt Resort Tel: 078 888 557 www.knaibangchatt.com An exclusive resort offering personal service and modernist style. Lush and private grounds house a collection of remodelled 1960’s

style colonial villas. With 18 unique rooms the resort includes an infinity pool, full spa, and media centre. All rooms refurbished to international standards. Choice of two dining options – upscale The Strand or the adjoining Sailing Club. Le Bout du Monde Kep, Tel: 011 964 181 www.leboutdumondekep.com Individual and separate bungalows in traditional Khmer architecture located at a top of a hill with good views and nice gardens. Serves French and Khmer cuisine. Rooms have hot water, mini-bar, fan and safe. Saravoan Hotel Thmey Village, Kep, Tel: 036 639 3909 012 715 588 / 012 357 729 Recently renovated building with 17 rooms has all the modern amenities including an inviting swimming pool and sweeping views of the sea. Veranda Natural Resort Tel: 033 399 035, 012 888 619, www.veranda-resort.com Traditional wooden bungalows set in the hillside. Settle down for the night and listen to the jungle purr. Has a good restaurant and bar with some quite stunning sweeping views down to the coast.

Mondulkiri

Mayura Hill Resort (Mondulkiri 4 star Boutique Resort) Phnom Penh Office: 225 Sisowath Quay

Tel: 017 711 177/017 811 188 www.mayurahillresort.com Mayura Hill Hotel & Resort located in Mondulkiri Province has 14 exclusive private Bungalow villas embodying the north eastern lifestyle. The first eco-tourism resort in Sen Monorom city located just 1 Km from downtown, surrounded by wonderful views of the highlands.

Phnom Penh – Deluxe

Amanjaya 1 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 214 747 www.amanjaya-pancam-hotel.com Large hotel with a great central location along the riverfront. The rooms are spacious and wellequipped with tasteful Khmer decorations. The downstairs restaurant doubles up as the air-con K-West bar. Bellevue Serviced Apartments 68 Tonle Sap Street. Tel: 023 432 999 www.bellevueservicedapartments.com www.facebook.com/ bellevueservicedapartments Located in a deluxe hotel complex on the riverbank of the Tonle Sap, Bellevue offers spacious, contemporary accommodation 10 minutes away from the city. Facilities include infinity swimming pool, tennis court, gym and children’s playhouse, 24 hour security, housekeeping, internet and complimentary shuttle to the city. Studio to 3 bedroom units available.


Cambodiana 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 426 288 www.hotelcambodiana.com Great riverside location with spectacular sweeping views of the confluence of three rivers. Large rooms with air-con, in-room safes and good bathrooms. Live band plays nightly (except Mondays) from 8.15pm until late. The Governor’s House 3 Mao Tse Tung Blvd. nr cnr Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 987 025 www.governorshouse.net Welcome to The Governor’s House Colonial Boutique Hotel in Phnom Penh. The Governor’s house offers an exclusive 10 rooms 5-star boutique hotel embodied in an original colonial-style mansion in the heart of BKK I, surrounded by the top residential area in downtown Phnom Penh city, Kingdom of Wonder. Himawari 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 214 555 www.himawarihotel.com The 115 beautifully-designed suites have air-con, cable TV, IDD, Internet, inroom safes and large bathrooms. Nice swimming pool and good gym facilities as well as two good tennis courts. Imperial Garden Hotel 315 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 219 991 Large hotel and villa complex next to the Cambodiana. Has a swimming pool, gym and tennis court. InterContinental 296 Mao Tse Tung. Tel: 023 424 888 www.ihg.com One of Phnom Penh’s most luxurious 5-star hotels, the 346 air-con rooms have all the expected facilities including in-room safes and king size beds. Also has a large swimming pool, a fitness centre and a spa. Raffles Hotel Le Royal Street 92 Tel: 023 981 888 www.phnompenh.raffles.com Emanates the same class as its more famous namesake in Singapore. The Elephant Bar is a popular expat haunt during the 4pm to 8pm happy hour. Beautiful gardens with a separate swimming pool for kids plus reasonably priced apartments for long stays. The rooms at the front are particularly special. Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 www.sofitel.com Set riverside amongst landscaped gardens this 12-storey colonial style hotel is close to key attractions, embassies and the central business district. Along with 201 luxurious rooms and suites with Mekong or Bassac river views, are chic restaurants and bars, an upscale spa, two swimming pools, a sports club and the finest conferencing facilities in Cambodia.

Phnom Penh – Mid Almond Hotel 128F Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 220 822 www.almondhotel.com.kh

56-room hotel located close to the Royal Palace and the riverfront with spacious rooms with WiFi. Downstairs restaurant serves dim sum and Cantonese food. AQUA Boutique Hotel 2 Street 278. / Tel: 012414596 info@aqua-pp.com Modern Indochina villa offers 7 rooms in a stunning Art Deco building, All en-suite with A/C. and on-sight pool, sun bed, wine bar and tapas restaurant. Asia Club 456 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 721 766 An oasis of water and green in the city, the five bungalows and four rooms with air-con and bath, large safe and flatscreen tv. The beautiful swimming pool is tucked around the back of Man Han Lou Restaurant and you can have drinks and food delivered from Man Han Lou Restaurant. Blue Lime 42 Street 19z (off Street 19), Tel: 023 222 260. www.bluelime.asia Centrally-located mini-hotel with a great swimming pool and contemporary rooms is a good flashpacker option. FCC Phnom Penh 362 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 012 253 222 www.fcccambodia.com Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant has seven rooms with balconies offering views of the river. Each is individually designed and meticulously outfitted with high-speed Internet access and the latest mod cons. Hotel Cara 18 Street 47 & 84 Tel: 023 430 066 / 023 998 422 stay@hotelcara.com www.hotelcara.com Just north of Wat Phnom, this stylish boutique hotel has well-fitted rooms at very reasonable rates and a great sushi restaurant. Lebiz Hotel & Library 79F Street 128. Tel: 023 998 608 / 610 info@lebizhotel.com www.lebizhotel.com Luxury accommodation with a competitive edge and sleek modern design offers a full range of specialty services tailored to business needs, and cutting-edge technology to maximise comfort and productivity. Has unique library. Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 990 321. www.paddyrice.net Former Hope and Anchor has newly refurbished rooms with solar hot water, cable TV, air conditioning, WiFi and great views of the river from its balconies. Downstairs restaurant offers full western and Asian cuisine Splash Inn Hotel 5 Street 244. Tel: 023 986 174 www.splashinncambodia.com The Splash Inn opened in March 2011 after full renovations to two traditional Khmer villas, one block from the Royal Palace. All rooms boast handmade furniture, en-suite bathroom, flat-screen LCD TV, DVD, Wi-fi, fridge and mini-bar.

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River 108 2 Street 108. Tel: 023 218 785 www.river108.com Art deco hotel aimed at the flashpacker set, the river view rooms are extremely comfortable with flat screen TV and separate bathroom and toilet. Efficient WiFi, good working space and spacious rooms make this the perfect business option.

Villa SALT 4 Street 294. Tel: 012 815 066 villasalt@sentosasilk.com Whether you are touring Phnom Penh or planning a long vacation, Villa SALT along with SentosaSilk, create an atmosphere that makes you feel at home. Explore 14 artistically decorated rooms, each created to give you that authentic sense of uniqueness.

The Little Garden 8 Street 398. Tel: 078 217 871 Stylish boutique hotel with a swimming pool. A quiet retreat from the city’s chaos. Rooms feature attractive Cambodian furniture and gorgeous colonial tiles.

Phnom Penh - Budget

The Plantation Urban Resort and Spa 28 Street 184. Tel: 023 215 151 http://theplantatation.asia 70 rooms – including a penthouse suite, two swimming pools, a restaurant, two bars, a gym, a spa and a meeting room. Centrally situated close to most of Phnom Penh’s main attractions.

Feeling Home Cnr. Streets 278 & 63 Tel: 023 221 522 www.feelinghomecambodia.com Stylish nine-room boutique hotel with ample rooms at competitive rates, including flatscreen TV, aircon, security box and great beds. Also has two apartments, an Asian restaurant and a Café Sentiment coffee house.

The Pavilion 227 Street 19. Tel: 023 222 280 www.pavilion-cambodia.com Beautiful boutique hotel set in a colonial building with large, unique rooms, each with either a small balcony or garden. Outdoor swimming pool, free WiFi and a small poolside restaurant.

California 2 79 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 077 503 144 www.cafecaliforniaphnompenh.com New guest house and bar on the river front with well-priced rooms with air con and security box. Downstairs bar has great Tex-Mex food and pool table.

L’Imprevu Highway 1, 7km past Monivong Bridge. Tel: 024 390 405 Complex with twenty-four bungalows just outside of Phnom Penh. Tennis courts and excellent swimming pool make this a good break from the city.

The Quay Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 224 894 http://thequayhotel.com Five-storey, 16-room riverside boutique hotel has beautiful contemporary rooms designed by Gary Fell. The stand-out features are the roof-top jacuzzi and the very contemporary ground-floor bar and Chow Restaurant with WiFi.

Le Rit’s 71 Street 240 Tel: 023-213-160 Small & charming 6-room guesthouse with spacious rooms is managed by NYEMO NGO, part of its hospitality training. Rooms equipped with queen sized bed, cable TV, private bathroom. The restaurant has a European set lunch menu and serves authentic Khmer food a la carte for diner.

Queen Boutique Hotel 49A Street 214. Tel: 023 211 683 om@queenboutique.asia Boutique hotel located conveniently close to all the major attractions including the Royal Palace and National Museum.

Tonle Sap Guest House 4-6 Street 104. Tel: 023 986 722 www.tonlesapguesthouse.com Clean, well-kept guesthouse upstairs with 15 rooms, with air-con, fans, hot water, cable TV. Downstairs Pickled Parrot bar open 24 hours.

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Sihanoukville

Club RED 25 Tola St., Ochheuteal Beach Tel: 068 319 481 Located in the very heart of the city, this unique nightclub, bar, and lounge is open every night of the week. Great music, dance shows and live entertainment. Enjoy exclusive drinks and cocktails served in stylish surroundings by our friendly staff. Open 8pm till late. Independence Hotel Independence Beach Tel: 012 728 090 www.independencehotel.net Beautifully restored hotel on Independence Beach, originally opened in 1963, reopened in 2007 following a complete refurbishment. Has sweeping ocean views from most rooms. Also has a gym, conference rooms and circular restaurant. Reef Resort Road to Serendipity Beach Tel: 012 315 338 www.reefresort.com.kh Guesthouse set around a beautiful pool with well apportioned air-con rooms, in-room safe and cable TV, family rooms also available. Has a welcoming bar with excellent TV screen, slate pool table and excellent Mexican cuisine. Scuba Nation Lane off road to Serendipity Beach Tel: 012 604 680 / 012 715 785 www.divecambodia.com Five-star PADI centre offering daily trips to the area’s many islands and reefs including the decent dive sites at Koh Rung Samloem and Koh Kon, also runs a range of PADI-certified courses, and has an office in Phnom Penh. Sokha Beach Resort Sokha Beach. Tel: 034 935 999 With its own private beach, excellent swimming pool and fine restaurants, Sokha is the most up-market place to stay in Sihanoukville. A live Filipino band plays around the cocktail bar at night. The Secret Garden Otres Beach Tel: 0976 495 131 www.secretgardenotres.com

Modern beachside air-con bungalows with hot water, jungle showers or baths, TV, WiFi and Otres Beach’s only swimming pool. Restaurant run by professional Australian chef with draught and imported beers. Zoco Independence Hotel Road to Serendipity Beach Two fashion boutiques – one on the way to Serendipity Beach, the other in Independence Hotel – run by the Spanish-born Nuria, sells dresses, skirts, bags and accessories.

Travel

Cambodia Uncovered 11B Street 370. Tel: 012 507 097 www.cambodiauncovered.com Offers village and cultural tours in Phnom Penh and surrounds including road trips, Mekong cruises, accommodation, cooking classes and other activities. Exotissimo Travel No. 66, Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 218 948 www.exotissimo.com Excellent French-owned agency specialising in adventure tourism, flight bookings, package holidays and a range of tours of Southeast Asia. Helicopters Cambodia 10 Street 310. Tel: 012 814 500 www.helicopterscambodia.com Over 12 years experience operating in the Kingdom offers scenic flights around the Temples of Angkor and beyond. Is a wholly owned subsidiary of Helicopters New Zealand Group. Intrepid Travel 468 Sivutha Blvd. Tel: 063 966 655 For travellers with a yearning to get off the beaten track, Intrepid opens up a whole new world of adventure travel. With a huge variety of tours available. Travel Indochina 43-44EO Street 108 Tel: 023 991 978 www.travelindochina.com.au Australian-owned and managed travel company specialising in small group journeys around Asia that can tailor trips for individuals.


Listings

Laid back, gay-friendly bar with extremely chilled Buddha Bar tunes and some amazing light boxes that serves a great range of cocktails. Free WiFi. Open 5pm until late. Miss Wong Lane off Pub Street. Tel: 092 428 332 Imagine yourself in China at the turn of the last century and you won’t go much wrong in Miss Wong with excellent and original cocktails and dim sum. Open late.

siem reap Siem Reap - Bars

AHA The Passage. Tel: 063 965 501 Sophisticated and beautifully designed wine bar selling a wide range of wines from around the world and tapas, as well as great cheese and Lavazza coffee. Open 10.30am to 10.30pm. Angkor What? Pub Street. Tel: 012 181 4001 “Promoting irresponsible drinking since 1998,” this graffiti-laden bar is the mainstay of Pub Street. A healthy mix of loud rock, punk and grunge, buckets of vodka and red bull for $6. Laundry Bar Old Market Extremely chilled music bar just off Pub Street with great mellow decor and extremely cool t-shirts. Free drink during the 6pm to 9pm washing hours. Open 6pm until late. Linga Bar Alley behind Pub Street Tel: 012 246 912. www.lingabar.com

Nest Sivutha Blvd. Tel: 017 925 181 A step up for Siem Reap, Nest is high level drinking and dining, serving light Mediterranean and Asian food in a unique, highly stylised setting, with loungers and table settings. Picasso Alley West A very cosy wine and tapas bar, with artful décor and a curved bar making conversation easy and fun. Good selection of wines and delicious tapas make this a regular haunt for expats. Open 5pm until midnight. The Station Wine Bar Street 7, close to Pub Street Tel: 097 850 4043 www.thestationwinebarsiemreap.com For lovers and lovers of wine offers a selection of fine wines, always 20 by the glass and a list of over 100 by the bottle. Good music and pleasant decor in air conditioned comfort. Tuesdays, varietal wine tastings and every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday our Lady Boy Variety Show. The Warehouse Old Market Tel: 012 530 227 Popular expat bar plays great music with good Asian-Western fusion cuisine. Best

stocked bar in town and homemade infused vodkas. Open 10am to 3am.

Siem Reap - Cafés

Blue Pumpkin Old Market Tel: 012 946 227/ 063 463 574 www.tbpumpkin.com Popular café with a great range of freshly baked breads and pastries, shakes and coffee. Also at Angkor Wat and the airport. Open daily from 6am to 10pm. Free WiFi.

Siem Reap - Galleries

Diwo Galleries One at Vat Svay, Tonle Sap Road and another between Monument Books and Ta Prohm Hotel on the riverside Features a selection of refined Khmer statues and Buddhas. The larger Vat Svay location features a gallery exhibition of Thierry Diwo’s photography, as well as sells home decor and books. Drinks are available in the garden and on the terrace. Happy Cambodia Gallery 2 Hospital Street, between Psar Chaas and Pub Street Tel: 063 963 114 www.happypainting.net McDermott Gallery I & II FCC Complex Pokambor Avenue, Alley behind Pub Street. Tel: 092 668 181 www.mcdermottgallery.com Two galleries devoted to photographic works. with permanent exhibition of photographs taken by John McDermott. Open 10am to 10pm.

Siem Reap - Hotels

Golden Banana Boutique Resort Phum Wat Damnak, Kum Sala Komreuk, Krom 10, Siem Reap Tel: 012 654 638 / 063 766 655 goldenbanana2@gmail.com, www. goldenbanana.info

Deluxe suites & villas in modern Asian style build around a salt-water pool. Private balcony or terrace with outdoor bathtub/splash shower. Gay-friendly. 3mn walk to Old Market. Golden Orange Off East River Road Tel: 063 965 389 reservations@goldenorangehotel.com www.goldenorangehotel.com Mini-hotel with good sized air-con rooms that tends to have customers when others are empty. Nice outside bar makes for a good place to sit and have a few beers. Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor 1 Charles de Gaulle Tel: 063 963 888 www.raffles.com Elegant hotel with opulent gardens and a spectacular swimming pool in its grounds. Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort Vithei Charles de Gaulle Tel: 063 964 600/ 610 www.sofitel.com Ultimate in comfort and refinement, combining the traditional architecture of Cambodia with elegant French colonial style. 5-star accommodation, 5 bars and restaurants, swimming pool, spa and international standard18-hole 72-par golf course, 16km outside Siem Reap.

Siem Reap - Leisure

Angkor Silk Farm Puok District (20min from Siem Reap downtown) Open daily from 8am to 5pm Tel: 063 5555 768 www.artisansdangkor.com Learn about the meticulous process of silk-making and traditional silk weaving. A free shuttle bus departing from Artisans Angkor’s shop in Siem Reap center to the Angkor Silk Farm is available daily at 9.30am and 1.30pm.

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Body Tune 293-290 Pokambor Av. (next to the old market along Riverside) Tel: 063 764 141 www.bodytune.co.th When you need to re-balance and rejuvenate your body in between daily routines, BODY TUNE is the perfect place to regain your energy. Open daily 10:00am - 10:30pm. Helicopters Cambodia 658 Hup Quan Street. Tel: 063 963 316 Professionally run company that has flights over the temples and beyond in modern, safe helicopters. Sam Veasna Centre Wat Bo Area. Tel: 063 96 37 10 Wild Asia Responsible Tourism Award winner. Some of the rarest birds in Asia can be seen at Prek Toal and Ang Trapang Thmor, a day-trip from Siem Reap, or combine bird watching with temple trips to Koh Ker and Beng Melea. Phokeethra Country Club Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Vithei Charles de Gaulle Tel: 056 396 4600 reservation.angkor@phokeethragolf.com International standard 18-hole, 72-par golf course 16km outside of Siem Reap. Clubhouse facilities: pro shop, rental equipment, restaurant.

Siem Reap - Medical

Royal Angkor International Hospital National Route #6 Phum Kasekam, Khum Sra Ngea. Tel: 063-761-888. Fax: 063-761-739 www.royalangkorhospital.com Royal Angkor International Hospital is part of the well known Bangkok Hospital Network. We offer high quality care for all eventualities from routine care to emergency treatment 24 hours a day.

Siem Reap - Restaurants

Chanrey Tree Pokombo Ave. Tel: (855) 63 76 79 97 www.chanreytree.com Traditional Khmer food in a beautiful contemporary setting. Alongside the river, 50m brfore Preah Phrum Rath Pagoda. Open daily. Lunch 11am2.30pm, dinner 6pm-10.30pm. Maharajah Indian Restaurant Next to Pub Street, btwn CAB bank & provincial hospital. Old Market Area Tel: 063-966221 / 092-506622 Authentic Indian vegetarian and nonvegetarian food. Maharajah believes that exclusivity with a touch of simplicity is important in the creation of every dish. Open daily 11am – 10pm.

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Marum 8a Route B, btwn Wat Polanka & Catholic Church. Tel: 017 363 284 contact@marum-restaurant.org Great food, good service. Part of the Friends International group that trains marginalized and vulnerable young people for a career in the hospitality industry. Profits go back into the training programme. Open Mon-Sat 11am-10pm.

Siem Reap - Shops

siem reap Massaging In Knowledge Joanna Wolfarth

Artisans Angkor Boutique and Workshops Stung Thmey Street (2min from the Old Market) Open daily from 7.30am to 6.30pm Tel: 063 963 330 www.artisansdangkor.com Boutique offering a large collection of handmade souvenirs such as high-quality silk scarves, clothing and accessories, wooden and stone sculptures, lacquer paintings and decorative items for all contemporary lifestyles. Also offers free guided tours of the handicraft workshops to see some of the secrets of traditional Khmer craftsmanship. De Silk 18 Oum Khun Blvd Tel: 063 761 198 / 011 775 168 www desilk.com Boutique offering 24/7 tailoring services using 100% Khmer traditional silk, that has expertise in making clothes and accessories. Eric Raisina 53 Veal Village Tel: 012 965 207 / 063 963 207 Accessories, decor, textiles and clothing created by Madagascan-born and French-trained designer. Phone in advance for an appointment. Smateria The Alley West Tel: 063 964 343 www.smateria.com Boutique specialising in accessories made from recycled materials including a range of bags and wallets made from old cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets.

Siem Reap - Spas

Sokkhak Spa Sok San Street, next to Haven Restaurant, Old Market Area Tel: +63 763 797 www.sokkhakspa.com In Khmer, Sokkhak means ‘tranquility’. A nature-inspired décor with a soft, warm and tranquil atmosphere in which to relax, refresh and indulge and using carefully chosen natural botanical and marine-based products. Open daily 11am - 10pm.

The scene is familiar enough — massage table, aromatherapy oil burner, soft lighting — but instead of lying face down having a month’s worth of tension pummeled from my back, it is me gently attending to the knots in the shoulder of my prone boyfriend. The reason for this role reversal is the Body and Soul Spa in Siem Reap. It’s a new arrival on the crowded massage scene, yet unique in that it offers massage classes alongside its regular spa menu. Once owner Sophie Vincent and her husband, Patrick, decided to leave their native France for a new life in Cambodia they set upon finding a business that would utilise their training in reflexology, aromatherapy and massage. Sophie hopes that the courses will prove popular among tourists and expats who wish to learn some basic techniques, with an ultimate aim to “pass the message onto tourists that they have to take care of themselves, and by taking care of the body they take care of their mind and vice versa.” As well as teaching basic technique, the spa focuses

on Khmer massage and offers treatments that use facial products made of natural, locally-sourced produce such as honey, milk and tomatoes, all of which are made up immediately before a treatment. Sophie also stresses the importance of using coconut and almond oil for massages, rather than the cheaper petroleumbased oils. The spa, located on The Alley near Pub Street, covers three floors and is decorated with bamboo and delicate wicker lampshades, designed exclusively for the Vincents by Henry Perrin. The openfronted ground floor has comfy massage chairs and a boutique that stocks herbal teas and organic skincare products by Khmer Kru. Currently, the spa offers half-day classes in back and shoulder massage, which will later expand into full day and multi-day courses in Khmer massage. The classes are designed for beginners who want to know how to relieve the tensions of a loved one, or for people with massage training who want to gain experience in the specifics of Khmer massage.


Listings

food & drink Cambodian

Khmer Surin 9 Street 57. Tel 012 887 320 Elegant restaurant featuring wood and silk décor with a tropical garden that serves Cambodian and Thai favourites. Dishes are well prepsred and large enough to share. K’NYAY 25K Suramarit Blvd. (Street 268) Tel: 023 225 225 / 092 665 225, www.knyay.com knyay@hotmail.com Modern Khmer restaurant tucked away down an alley off Sihanouk Blvd, with a menu including a selection of freshly prepared, vegan dishes, along with traditional Cambodian specialities. Offers a selection of cakes, ice creams and sorbets, using all vegan ingredients. Open 12pm - 9pm (Mon - Fri), 7am 9pm (Sat), closed Sunday. Malis 136 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 221 022 www.malisrestaurant.com Beautiful modern Khmer restaurant with a courtyard set around narrow water channels and decorated with terracotta floor tiles. Has air-con rooms inside for those who find the midday sun too much. The cuisine is modern Khmer, with no MSG. Restaurant Le Royal Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 (see also restaurants, French) Romdeng 74 Street 174 Tel: 092 219 565 Come to Romdeng and order some delicious Khmer food for you and also for your children from our new kid’s menu, serving creative and healthy treats for little one! While waiting for your dishes, let you kids enjoy the playroom while you relax by the pool… And before leaving don’t miss our new gift shop in the first floor. Special lunch set menu everyday. Open 11am - 9pm. Chinese Emperors of China 19 Street 163 Tel: 097 929 2699 Up-market Chinese restaurant, popular with the capital’s large Chinese community, private dinning rooms, specializes in Peking duck and dim sum. Fortune Palace NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park Chinese restaurant with authentic Greater Chinese cuisine and all-youcan-eat Dim Sum buffet on Sundays. Open from 11am - 3pm, 5pm 10pm.

Fu Lu Zu Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd. 023 999 200 x 6613 Elegant Chinese restaurant specialising in contemporary Cantonese delicacies and dim sum with private rooms for intimate ambience. Open from 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6.30pm - 10.30pm. Dim Sum weekend from 8am - 2.30pm. Hua Nam 753 Monivong Bvd. Tel: 023 364 005 Large Chinese restaurant that specialises in seafood and duck and has a good selection of wines, with VIP rooms. Open 11am - 2pm, 5pm - 10pm. Man Han Lou Restaurant 456 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 721 966 Micro-brewery with four types of German-style beer. Has extensive Chinese, Thai, Khmer and Vietnamese menus, as well as dim sum breakfast. Open from 6am - 10am. Sam Doo 56-58 Kampuchea Krom Tel: 023 218 773 The place for dim sum in Phnom Penh, baskets of steamed prawn dumplings, pork buns and more go for a pittance. The wonton soup and other tasty meals are a steal. Open 7am - 2am. Xiang Palace InterContinental Phnom Penh 2/F, 296 Mao Tse Toung Blvd. Tel: 023 424 888 x 3562 Xiang Palace is locally acclaimed for its authentic Cantonese cuisine and delicious dim sum, all prepared with the finest ingredients. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Yi Sang Chinese Restaurant 128F Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 220 922 www.almondhotel.com.kh Set on the ground floor of the Almond Hotel, this stylish restaurant specialises in Cantonese food and dim sum that fuses the traditional with the contemporary, including excellent dim sum. Open from 6.30am - 10am, 11.30am - 2pm and 5.30pm - 10pm – Dim Sum not served in the evening.

French

Armand’s 33 Street 108 Tel: 015 548 966 A true bistro experience in a cosy wood-panelled space, despite the informal and relaxed ambience it has the menu to even satisfy high-rollers. Open 5pm until late. Closed Mondays.

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Brasserie du Port 49E Sisowath Quay, cnr Street 84 Tel: 012 607 507 Seaside bistro featuring eclectic menu of haute cuisine mixed with pasta and ish specials. French classics including flambéed duck, pork filet mignon and home-made fois gras available at reasonable prices. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Brasserie’s long wooden bar is the perfect spot for enjoying a sea breeze and the restaurant’s comprehensive wine list. Open daily, 8am – 11pm. Comme à la Maison 13 Street 57. Tel: 012 951 869 www.commealamaisondelicatessen.com Sophisticated French restaurant with a beautiful outdoor terrace area at the front, yet secluded from the street. One of the best French kitchens in town. Small delicatessen at the back of the restaurant. Open daily from 6am - 10.30pm. K West 1 Street 154, cnr. Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 214 747 Stylish aircon bar and restaurant below the Amanjaya with an excelllent steak menu and good value happy hour from 6pm to 8pm Fridays. Now has a brasserie menu with daily specials. Also has free WiFi. Open 6.30am until midnight. La Marmite Cnr Streets 108 & 51. Tel: 012 391 746 This small, reasonably priced French bistro has two adjoining rooms (one

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non-smoking) creating a relaxed, cosy atmosphere. Serves excellent fish, steaks and offal as well as daily specials, for a taste of real home-cooked French cuisine. Open 11am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm. La Residence Restaurant 22/24 Street 214. Tel: 023 224 582 Fine dining on an international scale in this sophisticated restaurant, where French classics meet gourmet, modern cuisine. Open from 11.30am-2pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm. Le Café Mith Samlanh French Institute, Street 184 Tel: 092 471 791 Set in the lush garden of the French Institute (formerly CCF), Le Café offers an extensive à la carte menu with Khmer and French dishes. All proceeds go towards Mith Samlanh’s programmes for marginalised youth. Open 7am - 5pm, closed Sundays. Le Gourmet NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822. Kitsch meets tradition at this up-scale restaurant. Quality ingredients come together in beautiful presentation on the plate, with the luxury of the surroundings complemented by professional and attentive service. Open daily from 12pm-3pm and 6pm-10pm. Le Jardin 16 Street 360. Tel: 011 723 399 Beautiful shaded restaurant with large garden and spacious outdoor play area for kids with excellent ice cream. Open 8am - 10pm (closed Mondays).

Restaurant Le Royal Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh dining. phompenh@raffles.com Treat yourself to the finest French & Khmer cuisine in one of Indochina’s most elegant restaurants. The Chef’s Degustation menu allows you to try a myriad of dishes in a single meal in a refined atmosphere. Private rooms are available on request. Open from 6.30pm-10.30pm. The Wine Restaurant 219 Street 19. Tel: 023 223 527 Excellent fine dining restaurant in the same grounds as Open Wine deli. The fresh food and extensive selection of wines make this one of the exclusive places to dine in town. Topaz 182 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 012 346 555/ 023 221 622 Sophisticated, air-con restaurant with outside dining, upstairs bar, wine shop, cigar room and private rooms. One of Phnom Penh’s finest restaurants. Has a popular piano bar, night club upstairs. Open 11am-2pm, 6pm-11pm. Van’s Restaurant 5 Street 102. Tel: 023 722 067 French fine-dining in a grand setting awaits at Van’s, located on the second floor of a well preserved colonial era building near the city’s Post Office. Open daily 11.30am2.30pm, 5pm-10.30pm.

Indian Sub-Continent

Dosa Corner 15 Street 51. Tel: 012 673 276 This small south Indian restaurant opened in January. True to its name it has a wide range of very good value dosa as well as thali and biryani dishes. Air-conditioned. Open 7am-10pm. East India 9 Street 114. Tel: 023 992 007 South Indian cuisine predominates in this pristine restaurant with excellent breads including nine types of dosa. Open 11am-2pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm. Flavours of India 158 Street 63. Tel: 012 886 374, Relaxing Indian and Nepalese restaurant with friendly staff and a good range of dishes including good value vegetarian and meat thalis. Open 10am - 11pm. Indian Delight 115Eo Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 724 885 / 098 776 543 Delicious North Indian tastes served at a modest yet clean and bright on riverside. Opposite Titanic restaurant. Open everyday 11am – 1pm. Shiva Shakti Street 63, between Mao Tse Tung Blvd. and Street 466 Tel: 012 813 817 / 023 213 062 Decidedly upmarket and sophisticated Indian restaurant in a beautiful setting with prices to match.


Good place for an Indian treat. Open from 11am - 2pm, 6pm 10.30pm. Closed Mondays.

Indochine

Indochine NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park With a focus on Southeast Asian cuisine, Indochine offers tradition dishes from Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand in a sophisticated space. Open 11am - 11pm. Irrawaddi 24 Street 334. Tel: 012 979 510 Authentic Myanmar food at very reasonable prices in a clean setting with paintings of the Burmese countryside decorating the walls. Open 10am - 10pm, closed - Mondays. Lemongrass 14 Street 130. Tel: 012 996 707 Elegant Thai-managed restaurant with stylish use of heavy wood and artefacts to create a far more luxurious ambience than the reasonable prices would suggest. Open 10am - 10pm. Le Wok 33 Street 178. Tel: 092 821 857 Light and modern pan-Asian and French eatery with dishes such as prawns with lime and wasabi and Mekong lobster thermidor, and a comprehensive list of wines and cocktails. Open daily 9am - 11pm.

Ngon 60 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 151 www.ngonpnh.com Open air restaurant that features a vast range of Vietnamese food in a garden environment. Meaning delicious, although the food does not live up to its name, the ambience makes up for it. Pangea Fusion Restaurant NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 Pan-Asian fusion restaurant with a western flair that specialises in allyou-can-eat dinner buffets. Open daily 6am - 10.30pm.

International

Aussie XL Café 205A Street 51. Tel: 023 301 301 Aussie style bistro food with quick lunch menu and a good selection of house wines and retail wines. Open 7am - 11pm. Beirut Resto-Café 117 Sisowath Quay, (after night market) Tel: 023 720 011/ 092 483 759 The only authentic Lebanese halal cuisine and Sisha Lounge in the town. Offering middle east flavours including mezze tapas – hummus, shish kebab, baba ganouj, falafel, vegetarian and non-vegetarian kebab wraps. Delivery, takeaway, catering. Open daily 10am until late.

Cafe Monivong Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 Wicker armchairs and marble tables covered with crisp white tablecloths create the perfect place to relax and linger over a delightful alfresco breakfast, lunch or dinner. Western and Asian cuisines are available buffet-style or a la carte. Private rooms are available on request. Buffet from 6am - 10am, 12pm 2.30pm, 6pm - 10pm, A la carte from 11am - 11pm. Doors Restaurant 18, Street 47 & 84. Tel : 023 998 114 www.doorspp.com New tapas restaurant, with live music. Open 11am until late eLYXIR 3 Street 466 (near Thai embassy), Tel: 023 211 711 Elyxir is dedicated to wine, luxury and gastronomy. Each course was dreamed up in order to marry perfectly the wines on our menu. Elyxir includes a swimming pool, champagne bar, private rooms & all our wines are available at our Wine Shop. Open Tuesday - Sunday, 10am until late. Equinox 3a Street 278. Tel: 023 676 7593 www.equinox-cambodia.com marco@equinox-cambodia.com anthony@equinox-cambodia.com French-run bar and restaurant.

International menu, pool tables, splitlevel bar. Art exhibitions each month and live music gigs most Saturdays. Bachata class on Tuesdays, Salsa class on Wednesday and swing nights on Thursdays. Open daily 11am – late. FCC Phnom Penh 363 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 724 014 The first stop for newcomers and it’s easy to see why. Set in a beautiful colonial house with sumptuous views across the river on one side and the National Museum to the other, it’s best to come at sunset when the streets below are most crowded, the cocktails are half price and draft beer goes for $1. Open daily from 7am to midnight. Fish Sisowath Quay, cnr of Street 108, Tel: 023 222 685 www.fishphnompenh.com Contemporary, modern restaurant specialising in all things oceanic. Menu includes everything from lobster through sushi to gourmet fish and chips for upmarket, but reasonable prices. Open 7am - late. Flavours Corner St 51 and St 282 Tel: 017 765 896 Relaxing restaurant and popular bar run by Quebecois with comfortable chairs that fall out onto the street. The mix of Asian and western cuisine has proved so popular that they have a copycat restaurant opposite. Open 7am - late.

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FOX Wine Bistro 104 Sothearos Blvd & St. 266. Tel.: 098 78 99 61 Casual wine-dining. For passionate food and wine lovers who want an unforgettable dining experience or even just a place to hang-out that’s unlike elsewhere in Phnom Penh. Serving simple yet thoughtful dishes and drinks in a comfortable, hip and trendy atmosphere. Friends 215 Street 13 Tel: 012 802 072 Non-profit training restaurant where all the proceeds go to the neighbouring street-kid school. Food is a reliable mix of Mediterranean and Asian with tapas thrown in if you are not feeling too hungry. Great juices. Another one of Phnom Penh’s places designed to take it easy, but this time with a clear conscience. Open 11am - 9pm. Gasolina 56/58 Street 57. Tel: 012 373 009 The largest garden bar in town has an extensive menu. Crèche facilities make this a popular choice with families at weekends. Has regular events with live music and DJs, even fashion shows. Open from 8am - 12am. Gastrobar Botanico 9b Street 29. Tel: 017 873 101 info@gastrobarbotanico.com Located in its own habitat with over 2,000 plants. Open-air. Offers tapas, salads, sandwich, and straightforward food, yet with character, in lush garden setting. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, and in between. Espresso bar. Cocktails, wines, fruit shakes. Open daily 8am - 9:30pm. Irina Russian Restaurant 22 Street 29 Tel: 012 833 524/ 092 833 524 www.irinacambodia.com Russian restaurant of iconic Phnom Penh status. If you can walk out of the restaurant after hitting the vodkas then you are doing well. Open daily from 11am until the vodka runs out.

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Java Cafe & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 420 www.javaarts.org Great coffees, salads, mix-and-match sandwiches and juices served in an elegant setting. The upstairs terrace, overlooking the Independence Monument, is a good place to watch the chaos below, while the downstairs space is a great place for coffee and catching up on your emails. Has exhibitions both upstairs and down. Open 7am - 10pm. Kandal House 239 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 986 803 Very friendly riverside established serving good and reasonably priced homemade pasta and a variety of Asian dishes. Open 8am - late. La Coupole Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200. www.sofitel.com Casual and authentic Indochinese and French cuisine with live cooking by chefs in an open kitchen concept. Offers breakfast, lunch, dinner and the Sunday brunch, all set in a stunning restaurant with high ceilings and natural light. La Croisette 241 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 220 554 Riverfront restaurant with an ample outside dining area screened off by trees that serves good, reasonablypriced food, also has a cool, air-con restaurant inside. Often arranges special events. Open 7am until late. La Plaza Spanish Tapas Bar 22b Street 278, nr cnr Street 57
 Tel: 012 825 443 Phnom Penh’s one and only Spanish tapas bar. It recreates to perfection the best known and most delicious Spanish tapas, making of seafood Paella its signature dish. Tapas are the result of hundreds of years of Spanish culinary history and evolution. Simple, tasty and healthy dishes have become a standard to be enjoyed with friends while drinking large amounts of sangría. Open 11am - 2pm,5pm 10pm. All day on the weekend.


dining

n sushi

LA ROSE Restaurant 164b Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 211 130 / 080 900 900 www.larose.com.kh Revive your strength and restore your health with La Rose Restaurant’s healthy option menu. Cozy ground floor restaurant with experienced chefs serving both Asian and Western cuisine. Latin Quarter Cnr Street 178 and Street 19 Tel: 093 319 081. Latin restaurant and bar that serves excellent tapas and mains with extra salsa. Beautiful courtyard often hosts live music and salsa dancing while the air-con restaurant is available for private hire. Open from breakfast until the music stops. Le Quay Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 110 Tel: 023 998 730, www.amaraspa.hotelcara.com Enjoy the menu of sushi, salads, paninis, crepes and Asian specialities, with a wide range of healthy power juices, smoothies, cocktails, coffees, beers and wines, either beside a relaxing water feature or on the riverside terrace. Smoke free environment for lunch and dinner. Open 10.30am-10.30pm. Lime Restaurant + Bar 79F Street 128 Tel: 023 998 608/ 610 info@lebizhotel.com, www.lebizhotel.com Located in Lebiz Hotel Lime serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, offering a stylish mix of Asian and western favourites with a focus on fresh, healthy and local ingredients, with regular changes to the menu. Lotus Blanc 152 Street 51 Tel: 017 602 251 Run by local NGO Pour un Sourire d’Enfant, this centrally located training restaurant has a monthly changing lunch menu as well as a la carte Khmer dishes. Serves both Asian and continental breakfast. Open Monday – Saturday, 7am - 10 pm. Metro Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 023 222 275 Cool east-meets-west decor and a chic menu offering tapas, starters and mains, comprehensive cocktail menu, favourite among which is the Espresso Martini, Metro also offers a range of classic breakfasts and an elegant lunch spot with free wifi in an air-con and smoke-free (until 10pm) atmosphere. Open daily 9:30am - 1am.

TEL 023 21 51 79

eryday

Mike’s Burger House book.com/RahuMetro Russian Blvd, inside Sokimex

Petrol Station. Tel: 012 633 971 Hugely popular burger bar that serves food with plastic knives and forks and equally plastic French fries with cheese sauce. Ideal for those who believe that American culture starts with a Mc.

New York Steakhouse 264 Street 63 cnr Mao Tse Tung Blvd. Tel: 023 987 500, www.steakhouse.com.kh Indulge in a seductive dining experience in the famed Phnom Penh Steak restaurant. The innovative menu features New-York Steakhouse signature prime cuts of beef charred to perfection accompanied by decadent sides and desserts. Open Daily from 11am - 2pm and 15pm -Midnight. Ocean 11 Street 288. Tel: 017 766 690 European managed Mediterranean restaurant that dishes up some of the best fish and seafood in town. Try the red snapper or the squid with rocket. Often has exhibitions around the understated walls. One More Pub 16E Street 294. Tel: 017 327 378 (see bars) Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023990321 www.paddyrice.net (see bars) Restaurant Tell 13 Street 90. Tel: 023 430 650 Up-market eatery that re-creates the genuine feel of an Alpine chalet, has a spacious indoor restaurant and outdoor terrace with rotisserie and bar. European menu with imported steaks, fondue, raclette and an extensive wine list. Open 11.30am - 2pm, 5pm - 11pm. Rising Sun 20 Street 178. Tel: 012 970 718 (see bars) Riverside Bistro Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 012 277 882/ 023 213 898 Popular restaurant with expats and tourists alike mainly due to its large outdoor terrace area to view the river. Serves a mixture of Asian and western food with an emphasis on German cuisine. Has rock music videos and a pool table in the music bar at the back. Open from 7am - 2am. Samba Brazilian Steakhouse 64 Sihanouk Blvd. (Nr Independence Monument). Tel: 023 222 599 Experience the unique Brazilian Churrasco way of cookingwith a large variety of meats skewered and roasted to perfection and served piping hot direct from the skewers to your plate! Open daily 11am - 3pm, 5pm 10:30pm. Sonoma Oyster Bar 159 Street 278 Tel: 023 223 617/ 077 723 911 Phnom Penh’s first and only independent oyster bar has drawn a crowd of expats and Cambodians seeking high-quality oysters in a cosy setting. Open daily 10:30am – 2:00pm, 5:00pm - 11:00pm.

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Stella Restaurant 55 Street 75 Tel: 099 574 188 / 012 735 002 A cosy restaurant located near Wat Phnom, Stella serves pizzas, grilled food and Asian cuisine in a peaceful garden atmosphere. Steve’s Steakhouse 8 Street 240. Tel: 023 987 320 Longstanding restaurant specialising in local grain-fed beef as well as a large variety of imported steaks, hamburgers, ribs and Greek cuisine. Has a terraced lounge with pool tables upstairs as well as a sports bar with large screen TV and happy hour from 12pm to 7pm. Open daily 11am - 10.30pm. Stonegrill 649 Sisovath Quay. Tel: 023 999 950 www.stonegrill.com.kh Stonegrill offers a unique interactive dining experience where diners meals are served cooking at the table on a natural volcanic stones heated to 400C (752F). Open daily 11am - midnight. T-Bone Steak House 392 Monivong Boulevard & Street 360 Tel: 012 900 138 Contemporary restaurant serving a premium selection of both imported and Cambodian beef, in a sophisticated air-conditioned setting – a carnivore’s delight. Open 12pm - 2pm, 5pm -11pm. Tepui Restaurant Lounge Chinese House, 45 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 991 514 Located on the second floor of Chinese House, Tepui offers a mix of Mediterranean and South American small plates with Asian accents.The skilled Venezuelan chef is considered one of the city’s best culinary talents. Open 6pm-10.30pm, closed Mondays. The Exchange / The Vault 28 Street 47. Tel: 078 886 889 Large colonial mansion contains The Vault, Phnom Penh’s first private member’s club for thoses who have $1000 to burn. Underneath, the Exchange has elegany exposed brickwork and low lighting as well as an impressive fusion menu. Open daily, 10am - midnight. The Quay 277 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 224 894 Rooftop deck with spectacular views of the river is a great place to enjoy a drink during half price 4pm-8pm happy hour. Food is a mix of tapas and more substantial offerings, including an excellent duck confit. Open daily 7am – 11pm. The Lost Room 43 Street 21 Tel: 078 700 001 A hidden gem, with eclectic food in an urbane environment. This small restaurant and bar owned by the former owners of Talkin To A Stranger offers small plates of food for sharing. Using imported and local foods, the menu encompasses

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global foods and unique cocktail and wine listings at reasonable prices. Caring and experienced staff makes for a pleasant evening. Come find The Lost Room and ring for directions. Open from 5pm Monday to Saturday. Kitchen closes at 10pm. Closed Sundays. Lunch by appointment only.

Italian

Aria D’Italia 41EO Street 310. Tel: 012 840 705 Cute little Italian pizzeria tucked away between Street 57 and Street 63. Well-priced lunch set menu and homemade ravioli. Home delivery available. Open 10.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm. Bistro Romano NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 Best known for its sumptuous Sunday Prosecco Brunch, this stylised Italian restaurant in the NagaWorld complex specialises in Italian cuisine. Open daily 11am - 11pm. Cafe Monivong Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Tel: 023 981 888 Indulge in home made antipasti, fresh prepared pasta and risotto as well as oven-baked, crispy pizzas and pair it all with the finest selection of Italian wines, every Saturday night 6pm - 10pm. Do Forni Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 Sophisticated Italian diner set in the grounds of the Sofitel hotel, dishes up much more than your basic pizza and pasta. Excellent range of wines, dimmed lighting and plush surroundings make this an excellent romantic meal for two option. Open daily 6.30pm - 10pm. Dolce Italia da Giorgio 96 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 012 562 892 Authentic neapolitan pizzeria ristorante. Pizza prepared in traditional wood-fired oven. Delivery service now available at yourphnompenh.com last orders at 9pm. Open from 11:30am - 2pm and from 6pm - 10pm, closed on Sunday. Genova Italian Restaurant 19Eo Street 154. Tel: 012 390 039 This small restaurant has the feel of an Italian trattoria with food just like mamma made. The spaghetti al pesto Genovese is its signature dish. Good range of meat and fish dishes as well as some Khmer dishes. Open daily 10am - midnight. La Volpaia 20–22 Street 13. Tel: 023 992 739 Part of a global pizzeria chain that includes Florence, Tokyo, Seoul and Phnom Penh, the cuisine is excellent with pizza and pasta cooked fresh in front of your eyes.


Limoncallo 81E0 Sisowath Quay Tel: 081 800 210/ 081 800 240 Authentic Italian cuisine with pasta, risotto and pizzas prepared in the traditional way and baked in a blazing wood-fired oven. Open daily 11:30am- 2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm Luna d’Autumno 6C Street 29. Tel: 023 220 895 Beautiful courtyard or stylish interior air-con restaurant, whichever you choose, Luna has more classical pizzas, both red and white, to choose from than most restaurants. Also serves excellent pasta and other up-market Italian food. Good wine cellar on view in the restaurant. Open 11am - 2.30pm, 5.30pm 10.30pm. Pasta & Vino 45 Street 288. Tel: 086 314 400 Cosy Italian spaghetteria that specialises in well-priced authentic Italian pasta and wines in a smokeless air-con environment. Open daily 12pm - 2pm, 6pm 10pm. Pop Café da Giorgio 371 Sisowath Quay Tel: 012 562 892 Sophisticated, small Italian restaurant located next to the FCC that serves light, contemporary Italian cuisine including fresh pasta and pizzas. Delivery service now available at yourphnompenh.com last orders at 9pm. Open daily 11.30am 2.30pm, 6pm - 10pm. Terrazza 1c Street 282. Tel: 023 214 660 www.terrazza.asia Experience Italy in Phnom Penh. Fine Italinan restaurant and Deli shop. Open daily 12pm-10pm, Deli shop: 9am-9pm

Japanese & Korean

Fusion Sushi Cnr. Streets 47 & 84 Tel: 023 986 114 Located inside Cara Hotel this beautifully decorated restaurant dishes up excellent Japanese and Korean food. Hachi Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 ext.: 6612 A taste of Japan in a Zen atmosphere with tatami rooms and sushi bar. Open daily, 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6.30pm - 10.30pm. Kan Ji Japanese Restaurant 128f Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 016 318 383 / 016 312 828. Kan Ji is three floors of Japanese culinary delight in a bright and modern setting. Open for lunch and dinner, it features a stylish mix of ancient and modern creative cuisine. Open daily, 11.30am – 2.30pm, 5.30pm – 10.30pm.

Le Seoul 62 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 012 971 516 Popular up-market South Korean restaurant specialising in BBQ, each table is equipped with its own charcoal burner, with all beef imported from the U.S. Open daily, 11am - 2.30pm, 5pm 10pm. Origami 88 Sothearos Bvd. Tel: 012 968 095 Up-market, contemporary Japanese restaurant with a spacious air-con area downstairs and four private rooms upstairs. Specialises in sushi and tempura, and has Asahi, Kirin and Sapporo beers. Open daily 11.30am - 2pm, 5.30pm - 9.30pm. Rahu 159 Sisowath Quay. Tel 023 215 179 Stunning, upscale atmosphere with a mix of modern Chinese décor, high ceilings, muted colors and rich woods. Japanese food takes the main stage but there is also Khmer and Western fusion cooking. A good place to go late night for sushi or a bowl of congee. Open daily 5pm-2am. Udon Café 29B Street 288. Tel: 086 426 530 Freshly made Sanuki-style udon noodles offer a real taste of Japan. Noodles and accompanying soups and sauces from are prepared from scratch using traditional methods and fresh ingredients. Open from 11am-2.30pm and 5.30pm-9pm. Closed every 2nd Wednesday.

Mexican & Tex-Mex

Alley Cat Café Off Street 19 (side street behind Royal Art School) Tel: 012 306 845 Small, friendly patio café serving good Mexican food and claiming to have the biggest burgers in town. Hard to find, Alley Cat is tucked down an alley at the back of the National Museum, the first on the right if you are coming from Street 178. California II 79 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 077 503 144 American-style bar with some of the best Mexican food in town, the excellent pool table and great tunes make this a good place to while away a few hours on the riverfront. Open 24/7 with good rooms upstairs. Cantina 347 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 222 502 A mainstay of the riverside scene, this is a popular meeting place for local expats with a large selection of Mexican beers and tequilas, and sinfully good margaritas. Serves good Mexican fare, and features photographs that capture the changing face of Cambodia. Kitchen open 3pm - 10:30pm. Closed Saturdays.

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recipe

FCC Arancini INGREDIENTS 1l chicken stock 1tbs olive oil 1 brown onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 330g Arborio rice 40g shredded parmesan cheese 4 eggs

180g dried (packaged) breadcrumbs 150g plain flour 100g gorgonzola cheese (cut into 1.5 cm pieces) Vegetable oil, to deep-fry Chilli jam

STEP ONE Place the stock in a medium saucepan over a high heat and bring to the boil. Cover and reduce heat to low. Hold at a gentle simmer, meanwhile heat oil in a saucepan over medium heat and add the onion and garlic. Cover and stir occasionally for five minutes or until the onion is soft. STEP TWO Add rice to the onion mixture and cook, stirring until the grains appear slightly glassy. Add a ladleful (about 125ml) of the simmering stock to the rice mixture and stir constantly with wooden spoon until the liquid is completely absorbed before adding the next ladleful. Continue for 20 minutes or until the rice is tender, yet firm to the bite, and the risotto is creamy. Stir in the parmesan. Set aside for two to three hours to cool completely. Add two eggs and stir until well combined. STEP THREE Place the breadcrumbs on large plate and flour in a bowl. Crack the remaining eggs into separate bowl and whisk. Use wet hands to shape two tablespoons of the risotto mixture into a ball. Press your thumbs into the centre of the ball to make an indent. Place a piece of gorgonzola cheese in the indent and then mould the risotto mix to enclose. Repeat for 28 balls. STEP FOUR Roll the balls in the flour and shake off any excess. Dip in the egg, then in the breadcrumbs. Place on large plate and chill in the fridge for 30 minutes. Add enough oil in a large saucepan to reach a depth of 5cm. Heat to 190c over medium-high heat (when the oil is ready a cube of bread will turn golden brown in 10 seconds). Add seven risotto balls to the oil and cook, turning occasionally for four to five minutes or until golden. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to a plate lined with paper towel. Repeat with the remaining risotto balls, reheating the oil between batches. STEP FIVE Place the risotto balls on a serving plate and serve with chilli jam. The jam is made by combining six chillis, one onion, two garlic cloves and water in a food processor until finely chopped. Transfer to a saucepan, adding 450g of sugar, the juice of one lime and one tsp of fish sauce. Heat until the sugar dissolves, then bring to the boil. Simmer for another 35 to 40 minutes, and then leave to cool. FCC, 363 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 724 014.

Recipes provided by members of:

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Casa Lika 16 Street 136. Tel. 012 429 542 American-run family restaurant serving up good Mexican fare in an authentic setting with rustic brick walls and colourful Mexican artwork, great music and even better tacos make this a good place to share some Coronas with friends. Open 10am - midnight, closed on Mondays. Freebird 69 Street 240. Tel: 023 224 712 Aircon American bar with neon lighting, a variety of memorabilia, comfortable seats and rock music. International menu with good lunch offers, an excellent range of bottled sauces, excellent International, Mexican food and burgers. Be prepared for some good solid R&R. Open 7am - midnight. La Citá 13 Street 282. Tel: 092 388 123 Riverside, between St 108 & 110. Tel: 092 626 123 www.lacita.ox2net.com Get ready to change your tune about what you think Mexican food is! Just one taste of our hand-rolled burritos, tacos and quesadillas will tell you how much effort we put into our mouthwatering products. Open daily, 9am-10pm. Taqueria Corona 14E Street 51 (btwn Sihanouk Blvd and Street 242) Tel: 089 281 626 / 012 629 986 Enjoy our mexican specialties, barbacoa, cochinita pebil, texas chile, carnitas, pollo and carne asoda in our festive dining room. Open daily from11.30am - 2pm, 6pm - 10pm (Sunday evenings only).

Vegetarian

Fresh Salad Bar 37E0 Street 310 Tel: 081 555 559 / 016 977 790 The first salad bar in Phnom Penh which provides healthy organic salad and other foods to help you maintain you healthy lifestyle. We serve salad coffee and bakery goods. Free Wifi. Free delivery, call Jung on 081 555 559. Open daily, 8am - 10pm. K’NYAY (see restaurants Cambodian) The Vegetarian 158 Street 19 Tel: 077 900 210 / 012 905 766 With a lush garden space in the heart of Phnom Penh, The Treez provides a relaxing dining experience. Whether it be amok, curry or tom yam, The Treez, creates vegetarian versions of popular Cambodian, Indian and Thai dishes. Open 10:30am - 8:30pm, closed Sundays. Vego’s 3E0 Street 51 & 21b Street 294 Tel: 012 984 596 Salad bar with an emphasis on greens and a menu of healthy western items. Also offering bagels, salads and wraps with a wide array of super fresh toppings. Choose from ready-made or d.i.y. options. Also on offer are a vegetarian soup of the day as well as fresh-squeezed juices, yogurt and granola.

Cafés

Art Café 37 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 012 834 517 Elegant bistro in the style of a European coffee house is now transposed to the Meta House with regular classical music performances. Blue Pumpkin 245 Sisowath Quay and at Monument Books on Norodom Blvd Tel: 023 998 153 Siem Reap’s favourite café also offers multiple locations in Phnom Penh, serving breakfast sets, Asian and Western entrées and an array of ice cream flavours in air-conditioned comfort. Open daily from 6am - 11pm. Botanic Cafe-Art gallery 126 Street 19 Tel: 077589458 botaniccafe@yahoo.com, www.botanica-gallerycafe.com Cafe and food inside over 80 year old building, with garden is display art works, pot plants and premium souvenirs. First floor exhibition and event space is for promote local artists. We have special lunch and dinner set for your special times. Open daily 8am – 9pm. Brown Coffee & Bakery 17 Street 214 Tel: 023 217 262 Stylish, locally owned café with bakery on the premises serves a variety of coffees and pastries, with the green tea latte a house speciality. Open 7.30am - 8pm. Café El Mundo 219 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 012 520 775 Affordable and stylish riverside café and restaurant with adjacent apartments for short-term hire. Seating available on the mezzanine lounge, ground-floor restaurant and on the streetside terrace. Open 6.30am - 10.30pm. Café Fresco 363 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 217 041 Cnr. Streets 51 & 306, Tel: 023 224 891 The FCC’s café chain sells strong Illy coffee and mix-and-match sandwiches. Interiors have a slight retro 70s feel to it and there are pleasant outside seating areas. There are currently four outlets in town. Open 6am to pm. Café Namu 28b Cnr Streets 30 & 57, Tel: 023 220 074 Breakfast, brunch and lunch venue. Serving pizza, cakes, cookies, desserts, teas, coffees and fresh juices. Café Yejj 170 Street 450, Tel: 012 543 360 / 092 600 750 Quiet, cosy café serving bistro-style western cuisine, with extensive range of coffees, pasta dishes, pannini and wraps and fabulous cheesecake making this an ideal spot to escape the bustle of the nearby Russian Market. Open every day from 7am - 9pm.

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Chill Ice Cream & Coffee Lounge 219d Sisowath Quay Tel: 092 547 534 Pretty, casual lounge on the riverside offering coffee, sandwiches, cocktails, and some of the best homemade ice cream in town, as well as inventive ice cream cocktails. Open 11am - midnight. Coffee Room 385 Street 215. Tel: 098 518 888 The first coffee house in Phnom Penh to have an electronic menu, at the Coffee Room you simply tap in your order and wait for your order to arrive. Serves coffees, juices. Pastries and breakfast. Open daily from 7.30am - 6pm. Cross Town Café 193 Street 29. Tel: 017665204 Japanese-owned restaurant with welcoming wooden interior. which spreads from floor to bar. A recently opened venue serving traditional Japanese cuisine with an added twist, the restaurant aims to add new dishes to its menu every week. Open daily from 11am - 10pm. Daughters of Cambodia 65E0 Street 178. Tel: 077 657 678 www.daughtersofcambodia.org The cafe, called Sugar ‘n Spice,

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serves light lunches, a few main courses, home baked goods, desserts, coffee and some original smoothies. The cafe is a place for vocational training, where trainees will train and then have the opportunity to graduate into working in top end restaurants and hotels. Value for money. Free Wifi. There’s also a shop selling clothing, accessories and jewellery made on site. Or relax in the spa which offers head, shoulder, face and foot treatments. The Deli 13 Street 178. Tel: 012 851 234 Chic delicatessen, bakery and small restaurant serving excellent bread and pastries, with take-away menu. Open from 7am to 9pm (closed Sundays). Gloria Jean’s Corner of Street 51 & Street 310, Tel : 092 404 365 Sisowath Quay along Phnom Penh Port, Tel: 092 555 973 Canadia Tower Monivong Blvd., Tel: 092 555 937 Popular cafe in three differences area BKK 1, on the riverside and inside the commercial building Canadia Tower. Java Café & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 420 (see restaurants, international)

Kiriya Café No.174, St.51 Cnr St.370 Tel: 016 363 730. This Japanese café chain offers good locally sourced coffee, delicious desserts and a relaxing atmosphere. Open daily 6am - 2am. Morning Café 32C Street 592. Tel: 023 982 109 Cosy air-conditioned coffee house with relaxed atmosphere, located in Toul Kork district serves Khmer, Thai and European cuisine. Open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner from 6am to 9pm. Renature Aquarium café 35AE Street 288 near corner Street 83 Tel: 088 333 5338/017 827 766 Enjoy your coffee surrounded by the gentle glow of beautiful aquaria and relaxing fish. Open from 9am – 10pm. The Shop 39 Street 240, Tel: 092 955 963 / 023 986 964 Stylish café, with a wide range of fresh bread, tempting patisseries and juices, excellent salads and sandwiches. Crowded at lunchtime, but the small, cool courtyard at the back creates a perfect haven from the sun. Has a Chocolate Shop three doors along, and a second outlet in Tuol Kork. Open 7am to 7pm (Mon. to Sat, 7am to 3pm Sun.)

Bars

Aristocrat Cigar Bar NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 Club aimed at attracting wealthy expats and Khmers who like a good cigar and glass of wine. Not as stuffy as you might imagine with cigars from $10. Open daily from noon to midnight. AQVARIVM Bar 23 Street 55 Corner Street 254, Tel: 077 536 342 Drop by for Happy Hour drinks and nibbles from 5:00-9:00 PM. Available for special occasion and group discounts. AQVARIVM: Drink like a fish! Backstage 377 Sisowath Quay Tel: 097 958 7338 Cocktail bar, located near the Royal Palace, is a trendy, intimate yet dazzling place committed to serving some of the best cocktails in town. Open: Mon-Thu 5.30pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5.30pm-3am, closed on Sunday. Cadillac Bar and Grill 219 E0 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 011 713 567 Riverfront air-con bar and restaurant. Has good American cuisine as well as ariverfront vantage to watch the world go by.


California II 79 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 077 503 144 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Cantina 347 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 222 502 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Chow 277 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 224 894 Contemporary and sophisticated riverfront restaurant that serves Southeast Asian cuisine, a wide range of cocktails, juices and Illy coffee. The rooftop deck with spectacular views of the river is a great place to have a drink during its half-price 4pm to 8pm happy hour. Open daily from 7am to 11pm. Do It All Pub & Bistro 61 Street 174. Tel: 023 220 904 Dishes out African, Asian and Western cuisine, with hip hop and reggae played into the early hours of the morning. Open daily 9am to 4am. Elephant Bar Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Street 92 Tel: 023 981 888 Flamboyant carpet, comfortable wicker chairs and hotel pianist provide a sense of a time gone by, you can imagine Jackie Kennedy drinking here. Its many signature cocktails, including the femme fatale make this a popular place with expats especially during the twofor-one happy hours (4pm to 8pm). Open 2pm to midnight from Monday to Friday. Saturday and Sunday from 12pm to midnight. Equinox 3A Street 278, Tel: 012 586 139 / 092 791 958 (see Restaurants, International)

FCC 363 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 724 014 (see Restaurants, International) Freebird 69 Street 240. Tel: 023 224 712 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Howie’s Bar 32 Street 51 Air-conditioned and open until very very late, this is the Heart’s unofficial chill-out bar although the sound system could give its neighbour a run for its money. Tends to be a popular late night hang-out, especially around the ‘mini’ pool table. Open 7pm to 6am. K West 1 Street 154 (Cnr. Sisowath Quay), Tel: 023 214 747 (see Restaurants, French) Le Bar Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 A modern colonial style lobby bar with a fine selection of comfort food, tapas, champagnes, wines, premium spirits and large selection of coffees and teas. Le Moon Cnr of Sisowath Quay and Street 154 Tel: 023 214 747 Rooftop terrace bar at Amanjaya Hotel has arguably the view of the river of any of the city’s rooftop bars. Full bar and small food menu, while the service is slow enough to afford you sufficient time to soak up the view. Liquid 3B Street 278. Tel: 023 720 157 Welcoming open air bar on golden street run by the same owner as Flavours. Has one of the best pool tables in town with happy hour from 5pm to 8pm.

Lobby Lounge 296 Mao Tse Tung Blvd (InterContinental Hotel) Tel: 023 424 888 An elegant lounge situated in the lobby of the Intercontinental Hotel. Reasonable prices and excellent service. Open daily from 10am – 11:30pm. Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd, opposite Phnom Penh Centre Tel: 012 607 465 / 067 867 305 www.meta-house.com Multi-media arts centre established by German film-maker Nico Mesterham has a very cool bar. Open from 2pm till midnight. Closed Mondays. Metro Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 023 222 275 (see Restaurants International) One More Pub 16E Street 294. Tel: 017 327 378 English-style bar with comfortable wooden bar stools. No hip hop or techno, only great classic 60s & 70s music. Has terracotta-tiled terrace and 3 guest rooms upstairs. Open from 5pm to late, happy hour from 5pm to 7pm, closed Sundays. Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023990321 www.paddyrice.net Irish sports bar on riverside with big screen live sports, serves home cooked western and Asian favourites alongside a fully stocked bar including Guinness and a fine selection Irish whiskeys with daily happy hour from 4pm to 8pm. Often has live music events and a weekly pub quiz. Open 7.30am to late. Rising Sun 20 Street 178. Tel: 012 970 718

English-style pub with reliable breakfast, meat pies and hamburgers. Has a regular following around the bar at night especially on Fridays. Great posters of British films and TV classics adorn the walls. Ideal for that touch of nostalgia and good fish and chips – though not wrapped in a newspaper. Open daily from 7am till late. Riverside Bistro Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148, Tel: 012 277 882 / 023 213 898 (see Restaurants International) Sharky Bar 126 Street 130. Tel: 012 228 045 , www.sharkybar.blogspot.com Countless pool tables and a large balcony to look out over the street. Guaranteed to be lively – a place where anything can happen, especially if you get a bit too close to the local clientele. Serves good Mexican food, and has frequent live music. Open 4pm to 2am, take away 5pm til late. The Bungalows Mekong River. Tel: 077 555 447 Stylish simplicity located within a quick cruise from Sisowath Quay port. The floating bar serves basic drinks and nibbles. Open Saturdays and Sundays from 3pm to 8pm, available for private events if booked at least two days in advance. The Chinese House 128 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 356 399 Decadent cocktail bar set in beautiful old Chinese house. Has art exhibitions, film nights and parties down stairs and opulence upstairs. Open from 6pm until late, closed on Tuesdays.

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imbibe

A Fiesta in Phnom Penh Darren Gall Phnom Penh has recently taken on a decidedly Latin flavour, with several new Spanish restaurants and Tapas bars opening in the capital. Generally served in bars, where patrons can order a wide selection of dishes to make up a meal, tapas is designed to encourage conversation and drinking. For authentic tapas in Phnom Penh you might like to try Doors, Quitapenas, La Plaza or The Latin Quarter. But let’s address the issue at heart: wine and tapas. The varied style and bite-sized morsels allow for a progressive selection of wines and lend an easy drinking, fun atmosphere. When eating tapas I like to go native, with Spanish wines for Spanish cuisine. Some of my favourites are made from indigenous grape varieties that are uncommon throughout the rest of the wine world, but thoroughly delicious once discovered. Sparkling Spanish wine is called Cava, which is produced mostly in the Penedes and Catalonia regions. Often using indigenous varieties, it provides a wonderfully refreshing and inexpensive alternative to French Champagne and is great with green olives and lighter tapas dishes. Alternative white varieties include Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel’lo. Macabeo retains good natural acidity, producing wines that are crisp and fresh on the palate, often with green apple and white peach notes. For Parellada, think Sauvignon Blanc with more citrus notes and less grassy

herbal characters. With lots of crisp, refreshing acidity, these are wines to enjoy with lighter tapas drizzled in olive oil. Xarel’lo wines have a rich mid-palate and a creamy texture not unlike Chardonnay, with complex fruit flavours of apricots, sugar, banana, pineapple and peach plus a good minerality to finish. Try them with white meats like chicken and veal or ham and pork. Red varieties include Tempranillo, Garnacha and Carinena. Tempranillo is perhaps the most important grape in all Spain and the main variety in its most famous wine, Rioja. It produces deep, brooding medium- to fuller-bodied reds with trademark leathery tannins and a rich mid-palate of dark berry fruits, tobacco, pan juices and spices. It is excellent with meatier tapas. Garnacha, known as Grenache in the rest of the winemaking world, produces stunning, ripe, fruity red wines with soft tannins and flavours redolent of raspberries, musk and candied fruits. It’s another stunning red to try with meatier tapas. Carinena is the great red grape of Aragon and produces rich, big reds that burst with ripe cherry and blackberry flavours and notes of briar, tar, violets, cola, mixed peel and Asian spices. It is excellent with robust flavoured tapas. Having just played host in Cambodia to Gabriel Fernandez, from the famous Spanish winery Torres, I’ve definitely got a taste for ‘Fiesta de Phnom Penh.’

Darren Gall has spent a quarter of a century involved in virtually every aspect of the wine industry, and the passionate pursuit of the next great bottle continues. He currently resides in Cambodia developing the wine market with Celliers d’Asie. gall.darren@ yahoo.com

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The Tap Room Kingdom Breweries 1748 National Road 5. Tel: 023 430 180 www.kingdombreweries.com Sate of the art European brewery specialising in premium pilsner. Tours of the facility are organised on a regular basis, culminating in frothy cold ones at the brewery’s bar overlooking the Tonle Sap. Zeppelin Bar 109C Street 51. Tel: 012 881 181 Over 1,000 vinyl albums played by stone-faced DJ owner in small bar next to the infamous Walkabout. Remarkably good food considering the setting, especially late at night. Try the dumplings. Open daily 5pm - 4am.

Wine Bars

Bouchon Wine Bar 3-4 Street 246. Tel: 077 881 103 Sophisticated wine bar with a very French ambience and a wide range of French wines and bar food. Often has music as well as a mellow jazz sound track. Open noon until midnight. Elyxir 3 Street 466 (near Thai Embassy) Tel: 023 211 711 Elyxir is dedicated to wine, luxury and gastronomy. Each dish was dreamed up to marry perfectly with the wines on our menu. Elyxir boasts a swimming pool, champagne bar and private rooms. All our wines are available at our Wine Shop. Open 10am until late, closed Mondays. Open Wine 219 Street 19. Tel: 023 233 527 Large wine shop and deli with wellpriced wines from around the world. Has outside dining area. Open daily 7am - 11pm. ZINO 12 Street 294 Tel: 023 998 519 Zino wine bar and restaurant provides a comprehensive wine list and cocktail menu and a regularly changing Mediterranean menu while providing its customers with a friendly and very atmosphere. Zino is open for lunch and dinner from Tuesday to Sunday. Closed Mondays.

Gay

Blue Chilli 36 Street 178. Tel: 012 566 353 www.bluechillibar.com This welcoming bar run by Thai national Oak is currently the number one gay bar in town. Chic décor makes this one of the coolest bars in town, even if you’re straight. The drag shows on Friday and Saturday are an additional draw. Open 5pm until late. K2 25k Street 268. Tel: 093 665 225 www.fb.com/K2Bar.PhnomPenh Classy addition to the Phnom Penh scene and it’s first straight-friendly, chill-out bar. Contemporary design and LGBTIQ artwork. Secluded space, attracting a socially conscious, Khmer crowd who mix easily with expats/visitors. Open 6pm until late. The Rainbow Bar 73 Street 172. Tel: 097 741 4187 Intimate bar designed to get to know people better has a range of welldesigned cocktails to make the night go with a swing.

Nightclubs

Bouchon Wine Bar. (see Wine Bars) Occasional performances by jazz bands. Darlin Darlin NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park Tel: 023 228 822 Top-end nightclub with live music popular among the high-flyers of the city. Semi-private booths in a chic environment make for an unrivalled experience. Open daily from 7pm until late. Equinox (see Restaurants – Intrenational) Has regular live music from expat and cal bands at weekends and swing dancing on Thursdays. Heart of Darkness 38 Street 51. Tel: 023 222 415 The most famous of the city’s nightspots with a good-sized dance floor make this the in-place in town. Has well priced spirits and mixers and is totally packed out on Friday and Saturday nights. Open 8:30pm to 4am. Mao’s Cnr Street 106 & Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 992 726 Chairman Mao has been reconstructed into one of Phnom Penh’s liveliest nightspots with djs and occasional live bands. Open 5pm - 2am. Memphis 3 Street 118. Tel: 012 871 263 Only permanent rock venue in town with a house band that plays covers from 10pm til 1:30am, later at weekends. Also has open mike sessions on Mondays. Open from 8pm til late, closed Sundays. 2-for-1 cocktails everday from 8pm until 10pm. Nova 19 St 214. Tel: 097 716 5000 Trendy night club with VIP section and dress code (no flup flops, tank tops or shorts!). Open 9pm-4am. Paddy Rice (see Bars) Often has live music events. Pontoon Street 172. Now no longer the Penh’s floating hotspot, Pontoon still manages to pack in the punters, especially when international DJs are in town. Riverhouse Lounge 6 Street 110. Tel: 023 212 302 The alternative dance venue for both expats and young Khmers with a self-contained air-con dance room and great balcony to chill out. MonWed, Fri is hip hop, Thu is Ladies night, Sat is house and Sun is dance remix. Open daily 4pm - 2am. Saint Tropez 31 Street 174 Tel: 077 212 100 / 097 9000 401 Upscale club, complete with fake beach, deck bar, that suggests the French Riviera. Open daily 6pm - 2pm. Sharky Bar 126 Street 130. Tel: 012 228 045 www.sharkybar.blogspot.com Has regular live gigs at weekends involving local and expat bands with an emphasis on heavy rock.

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Listings

culture Cinemas

The Flicks 39B Street 95. Tel: 078 809 429, theflicks-cambodia.com Local expat oriented movie houses with revolving schedule of international and art house films, screened in comfy air con movie rooms. Also offers potential for movie parties, with option to hire the movie room for a private session (max 30 people). Minimum two screenings per day. Check the website for the weekly schedule. Cover charge $ 3.50 per day. The Cineplex 5th Floor Sorya Shopping Centre, Tel: 017 666 210 www.thecineplexs.com International-standard three-screen cineplex featuring the latest Digital 3D technology and the most recent Hollywood and international releases, located in the heart of downtown with ample parking, shopping and eating options. Open 9am - 10:30pm. Le Cinema French Institute, 218 Street 184 Tel: 023 213 124. 100-seat cinema shows International art house and mainstream movies with occasional films in English. Children’s cinema on Saturday mornings at 10am. Cinema on Saturday mornings at 10am. Legend Cinema 3rd Floor City Mall, Monireth Blvd. Tel: 088 954 9857 www.legend-cinemas.com International quality cinema showing Hollywood releases in air-conditioned environment including 3D. Screenings:10am - 9pm, box office: 10am - 9pm. Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd., (opp. Phnom Penh centre). Tel: 012 607 465 Movie shorts and documentaries from Cambodia and the rest of Asia. Movies normally start at 7pm, closed Mondays.

Galleries

Bophana Audiovisual Resource Centre 64 Street 200. Tel: 023 992 174 Preserving much of Cambodia’s audiovisual material, has regular exhibitions. Open 8am-6pm Mon - Fri, 2pm-6pm Sat. Dori Thy Gallery 12R Street 256. Tel: 012 661 552 Features the black and white photographs of German photographer, Doris Boettcher. Open Saturday and Sunday 10am-6pm. FCC Phnom Penh (see Restaurants, International) Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant has a permanent, rotating exhibition devoted to photography. French Institute 218 Street 184. Tel: 023 213 124 Formerly the Alliance Française, the French Culture Centre (CCF) offers cultural activities including exhibitions, festivals, and film screenings to promote French and Khmer culture. Onsite shop Carnets d’Asie offers a selection of French books.

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Happy Painting Gallery 363 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 221 732 www.happypainting.net A must see. Since 1995 this art gallery has been dedicated to showing and selling the work of Stef, a local iconic artist with a very personal and positive insight in everyday life in Cambodia. Open daily 8am - 10pm Java Café & Gallery (see Restaurants, International) Contemporary art gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian and international artists. Has second gallery on the ground floor. Website has details about Cambodia’s contemporary art scene. Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 012 607 465 Multimedia arts centre on three floors has regular exhibitions, interviews with filmmakers and short films, contains the Art Café. Open Tues – Sun, 2pm - 10pm. Reyum Institute of Arts & Culture 47 Street 178. Tel: 023 217 149 Gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian artists. Part of an NGO established to preserve traditional and contemporary Cambodian arts. Sa Sa Bassac 18 Sothearos Boulevard, Upstairs. An expansion of the Sa Sa Art Gallery and a merger with Bassac Art Projects, Sa Sa Bassac is an artist-run gallery for contemporary art. Includes a library, reading and workshop room, and a 60-metre gallery space. Ongoing visual literacy programmes.

Performing Arts

Amrita Performing Arts 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 220 424 www.amritaperformingarts.org Performance art company that puts on contemporary & classical music and theatre. Apsara Arts Association 71 Street 598. Tel: 011 550 302 Organisation that promotes Cambodian arts & culture. Open from 7.30am - 10.30am Cambodian Living Arts 407 Street 246 Art organisation devoted to the revival of traditional Khmer performing arts that puts on occasional performances. Chaktomuk Conference Hall Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 725 119 Designed by master Cambodian architect Vann Molyvann, this under-utilised building is worth a visit. Open 7am - 11.30am and 2pm - 5pm (Mon. to Fri.). Chenla Theatre Cnr. Mao Tse Tung & Monireth Blvds. Tel: 023 883 050 www.culturalcenter-cambodia.com One of the capital’s major theatres, it has regular performances of theatre, dance and music. Epic Arts 1DE0 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 998 474 www.epicarts.org.uk Organisation that uses art to empower people with disabilities. Sovanna Phum Khmer Art Association 166 Street 99 corner of 484 Tel: 023 987 564 Theatre with performances of shadow puppetry, classical and masked dances every Friday and Saturday at 7.30pm.


Listings

leisure & wellness Amusement

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla Tel: 012 231 755 A peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding, 15 minutes away from the city. Open from 6.30am until late. Parkway Square 113 Mao Tse Tung Blvd. Ten-pin bowling alley and dodgem track. Phnom Penh Water Park 50 Street 110, Tel: 023 881 008 Traditional mix of slides and wave pools is open daily from 9.30am to 5.30pm. Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park Phnom Tamao, 44 kilometres out of the capital along Highway 2. Cambodia’s top wildlife centre. All animals are either rescued from traders or bred at the centre. Many of the animals are critically endangered. Open daily 8am - 4pm.

Boat Cruises

The Butterfly Cambodia Tel: 012 602 955 thebutterflycambodia@gmail.com Cambodian river adventures, sunset cruises, birthdays and events to floating villages, Silk Island. Plan your trip, per hour, half-day and fullday rates available.

Classes

Cambodian Cooking Class Frizz Restaurant, 67 Street 240 Tel: 012 524 801 First and only Khmer cooking school for travellers & expats in Phnom Penh, includes transport to the market and a colourful 16-page recipe booklet. Open 10am - 10pm. Capoeira Home of English, Building D 10B Street 57, Tel: 012 242 396 Lessons in this rhythmic Brazilian cross between dance and martial arts are held every Tuesday from 6.30pm to 8pm. Central School of Ballet Phnom Penh 10 Street 183 (entrance on Street 406) www.centralschoolofballet.com Cambodia’s first purpose-built ballet school offering classical ballet training for children in the afternoons, contemporary dance, ballet and dance conditioning for adults in the evenings. Spacious dance studio equipped with large, custom-made mirrors, barres and a professional, sprung dance floor. Dance World Cambodia At Hotel Cambodiana. 313 Sisowath quay. Dance studio entrance at Physique Club Gym. Tel: 012634008 danceworldcambodia@yahoo.com.au www.danceworldcambo.wordpress.com RAD ballet, neo classical, modern

dance, jazz, tap dance, hip hop and k pop, breakdance, raqs sharqi bellydance, classical pilates. Classes for kids aged 2.5 and up. classes for adults, beginner and intermediate. performance and choreogrpahy group for advanced/ professional level adults. Equestrian Centre CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla Tel: 015 231 755 / 012 704 759 With 31 ponies and horses, an international sized arena and spacious stables, the only horseriding centre in Phnom Penh Tuesdays to Sundays, 9am to 11am and 2pm to 5.30pm. Global Art 1 Street 181 & Street 475 (nr Chinese Embassy) Tel: 023 222 084/ 087 222 084 World renowned art and creativity program for young children. Franchisee of Global Art Group. Available in 17 countries with more than 400 centres worldwide. Music Arts School 9A Street 370. Tel: 023 997 290 www.music-arts-school.org New NGO school providing music training for Cambodians and expats - of all ages and levels - at affordable tuition fees. Learn guitar, piano, violin, vocals, and tradtional Khmer instruments. Also has a scholarship fund to provide music education to the less fortunate. Nataraj Yoga Center 52 Street 302. Tel 012 250 817 www.yogacambodia.com Daily classes in yoga and pilates, check website for schedule and prices. Photography Tours 126 Street 136. Tel: 092 526 706 www.nathanhortonphotography.com Weekend photography tuition and guided tours to Kampong Chnang and Udong, covering technical and creative considerations in the context of travel photography. Scuba Nation PADI 5* IDC Diving Centre 18 Sothearos Blvd (near FCC) Tel: 012 715 785 www.divecambodia.com Learn to scuba dive in Phnom Penh. The academic and pool part of the course can be done in Phnom Penh and you finish with 2 days in Sihanoukville on the boat. We conduct refreshers, try dives and kids’ pool parties as well as the full range of courses. Open 9am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9am-5pm. Simphony Music School No. 243, Street 51 Tel: 023 727 345 / 097 888 8787 www.simphony.com.kh Simphony Music School is the first official music school in Cambodia recognized by the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts, Royal government of

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sos Wound Cleaning Naomi Wilcockson Injuries that result in broken skin are very commonplace. It is easy to be injured by an object on the ground, a rock in the sea or a wayward branch, or suffer a burn from a motorbike exhaust or get a graze from a fall. Fortunately, most heal without complication. However, it is important to know how to care for them at home and which wounds require expert care. Managing injuries properly may well save you the discomfort of a complicated healing process. The first step is to be prepared. Purchase and maintain a portable first aid kit that you can store at home and take with you when you travel. This kit should include: gauze for cleaning, non-stick bandages, saline, iodine antiseptic solution, bandaids/plasters, tape and triple antibiotic ointment. Minor wounds may be treated at home. These include small scratches and cuts that do not have any depth and where the skin does not gape open. Burns that are small and only red may also be treated at home. Always wash your hands well before tending to a wound and after you have finished. The wound should be washed with saline or clean water to remove any dirt, dust or grit. Then clean the wounds with antibacterial soap or an antiseptic solution, such as iodine or alcohol, and gauze squares. Gently scrub it and, after patting dry, apply iodine or antibacterial ointment and cover the wound with a bandage. Once the wound stops draining and

begins to form a scab, you can leave it open to the air. Minor burns can be treated with aloe vera solution or overthe-counter burn products. Oily substances, such as toothpaste or petroleum-based products, should be avoided in the treatment of burns. If a wound is deep, gaping, will not stop bleeding or is heavily contaminated, you must seek medical attention. Burns that have blistered or nonpainful burns that are coloured white are more serious and must be checked by a medical professional. These wounds cannot be cared for at home. You should clean your wound every day, and be alert for signs of infection. Seek medical care if any of the following develops: • Redness around the wound • A red line tracking away from the wound • Increased pain (worse than original injury) • A non-healing wound • Smelly yellow or white liquid/ pus coming from the wound • Fever Self medicating with antibiotics bought over the counter is not recommended. Your doctor will decide the need for antibiotics and prescribe the correct dosage, timing and course length. Also consider your tetanus vaccination status. If it has been over five years since your last vaccination and the injury is a ‘dirty’ one, then you may require a booster. We live in an environment that provides ideal factors for potential wound infection so, to aid speedy recovery, have a low threshold for seeking professional advice.

Naomi Wilcockson is the nursing manager at International SOS clinic in Phnom Penh. If you have any enquiries regarding this or any other medical matter, please contact info. cambodia@internationalsos.com.

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Cambodia. The faculty is composed by experienced and qualified music teachers from overseas, speaking fluent English, Chinese, and French. Our curriculum is based on USA curriculum following Orff and Kodály music teaching methods. The Tennis Club CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla. Tel: 017 847 802 The two courts are equipped with specially adapted flooring unique in Cambodia, and with quality lightning allowing play past sunset. Skilled English and Cambodian speaking teachers available for private or group lessons. Open daily. Yoga for life 126 Street 19. Tel: 077589458 Learn to release stress and tension, find peace and live a healthy life with yoga classes taught by yoga and massage virtuoso, Azmi Samdjaga from Singapore. Classes every Wednesday from 7:30pm witht more classes starting late June 2012. Healthy food and Wifi are also available. Yoga Phnom Penh 172z2 Norodom Blvd. (alley nest to Sushi Bean) www.yogaphnompenh.com 012 739 419 / 012 739 284 Daily drop-in yoga asana classes for everybodys body. Classes include Ashtanga, Vinyasa Flow and core power yoga. Join our great teachers to improve your flexibility, strength, balance, posture and reduce stress. Also offering private 1-2-1 or small group classes ,regular workshops and retreats.

Chemists

U-Care Pharmacy 26-28 Sothearos Bvd. Tel: 023 222 499 14 Sihanouk Bvd. Tel: 023 224 099 High quality western-style chemist and pharmacy that sells the full range of beauty products, including international brands.

Counselling Services Alcoholics Anonymous 11 Street 420 Tel: 012 813 731 www.aacambodia.org Meets on Friday, Wednesday & Sunday.

Indigo Psychological Services 28 Street 460. Tel: 023 222 614, indigocambodia@gmail.com Professional counselling services in English, French or Khmer for adults, adolescents, children, couples, and families. Assessment and intervention services for children and adolescents with learning and developmental difficulties. Narcotics Anonymous 11 Street 420. Tel: 012 813 731 NA meets on Monday, Thursday at 8pm and Saturday at 7pm.

Dental

European Dental Clinic 160A, Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 211 363 www.europeandentalclinic-asia.com Total dental care, Implant, Orthodontist Treatment by expat dentists. Open Mon - Fri 8am-12pm, 2pm-7pm. Sat, 8am-1pm International Dental Clinic Phnom Penh 193 Street 208. Tel 023 212 909 www.imiclinic.com Siem Reap 545 National Road N6, Banteay Chas, Stor Kram. Tel: 063 767 618 IMI Dental Cosmetic and Restorative Dentistry Centre has been successfully creating beautiful smiles in Phnom Penh and throughout Cambodia. Open Mon – Sat, 8am -7pm, Sun 9am - 12pm. MALIS dental clinic 445 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 012 513 222 / 023 964 142 info@malis-dental.com Facebook: MALIS Dental Clinic A Japanese dentist provides professional and high-quality service. Shigeta Dental Clinic 25 Street 294 cnr Street21 Tel: 023 223 225 / 010705083 Email: info@shigetadental.com Faebook: shigetadentalclinic High-end Japanese Dental Clinic that caters your dental needs. Open from Monday to Sunday, 8am - 8pm. SOS Dental Clinic 161 Street 51. Tel: 023 216 911 International standard dental clinic providing family dental care, from routine cleanings and fluoride treatments to crowns and root canals. Dr. Deborah Moore is a UK dentist with a gentle manner suitable for children and nervous patients. Open 9am - 12pm, 2pm - 6pm Mon – Fri, 9am - 12pm Sat. Open 24/7 for emergencies.

Gyms

The InterContinental Fitness Center 3/F Mao Tse Toung Boulevard, Tel: 023 424 888 ext. 5000 A sophisticated retreat from the crowds, The InterContinental Fitness Center is the place to attain peak performance and wellbeing. Pump up with a full body workout on state-ofthe-art equipment, benefit from the experience and guidance of qualified trainers, and relax all year round in the open-air swimming pool. Fitness Centre CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla. Tel: 015 704 759 Achieve individual targets whether sports specific or to tone, lose weight, build strength or improve cardiovascular fitness for a healthier and fitter lifestyle. Open daily 6.30am until late.


Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Le Royal Hotel. Tel: 023 981 888 Modern gym and pool in Phnom Penh’s most elegant hotel. Use of gym, pool, sauna and Jacuzzi is available to nonguests. Open 6am - 10pm. Physique Club Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 012 810 432 Reasonable selection of equipment in the gym and a pool overlooking the river. Open 6am - 10pm. The Gym at The Place 90 Sihanouk Blvd.Tel: 023 999 699 Modern establishment featuring a fully equipped gym and weekly classes in dance, yoga and aerobics.Open 6am 10pm , Mon – Fri, 8am - 10pm Sat/Sun

Hairdressers

De Gran 19 Street 352. Tel: 023 999 707 Classy yet affordable Japanese-run hair salon in beautiful premises with excellent service. Open 10am – 8pm, closed Tues The Dollhouse 46AE0 Street 322 Tel: 010 329 999 / 016 620 907 www.dollhousecambodia.com Salon offers cutting, colouring and various treatments, including the Brazilian Keratin Treatment with Collagen to replenish the condition of your hair. Western hairdresser with international experience. Open Tues – Sat 9am- 7pm, Sun 11am-7pm, closed Monday. The French Element Himawari Hotel Unit D, 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 077 283 332 www.thefrenchelement.com Over-looking the Tonle Sap, wonderful spot to relax and pamper yourself. Offering all hair services such as highlights, colour, cut, Brazilian Keratin Treatment and more. International hairdresser. Open 10am 8pm, closed Sun.

Tokyo Barbershop 22A St 278. Tel: 012 590 655 / 087 667 778 tokyo_barbershop@yahoo.com Man centric barbershop conveniently located behind Lucky supermarket. Provides hair-cuts, shampoos, colours, manicures, pedicures, facial massage, oil body massages, back waxing. Open daily 8am - 7:00pm.

Medical

American Medical Centre Ground Floor Cambodiana Hotel 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 991 863 Led by American surgeon, team of international and Khmer doctors provide general practice services to clients. Can arrange emergency evacuation. 24/7 service. International Chiropractic Clinic, 67 Bis Street 240, (100m from Monivong Blvd) Tel: 023 223 101 www.cambodiachiropractic.com First and only Chiropractic clinic licensed in Cambodia. Our chiropractors are US trained and we provide modern Chiropractic care, physiotherapy and custom made medical grade orthotics. Common conditions treated include neck and back pain, sports injuries, knee pain. Open Mon - Fri 8.30am-6pm , Sat 8.30am-1pm. International SOS Medical Clinic 161 Street 51. Tel: 023 216 911 Global provider of medical assistance and international healthcare. Expat and Khmer doctors offer general practice, specialist and emergency medical services. Appointments 8am - 5:30pm Mon – Fri, 8am - 12pm, Sat. Open 24/7 for emergencies. Physiotherapy Phnom Penh 45C Street 456. Tel: 023 99 63 44 General physiotherapy practice specialising in manual therapy, sports injuries and acupuncture

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Royal Rattanak Hospital 11 Street 592, Toul Kork Tel. 023 991 000 www.royalrattanakhospital.com A Thai owned and run private hospital with extensive services that strives to provide high standard and quality medical care by professional care team.

Optics

Grand Optics 11 Norodom Bvd / 337 Monivong Blvd / 150 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 213 585 Modern opticians with the latest equipment including free computerised eye test. Makes prescription glasses and lenses.

Pools

Asia Club 456 Monivong Bvd. Tel: 023 721 766 Beautiful swimming pool at rear of Man Han Lou Restaurant. Members get a discount at both restaurant and Master Kang Health Care Centre.

Spas

Amara Spa Cnr Sisowath Quay & St.110 Tel: 023 998 730 www.amaraspa.hotelcara.com Comprehensive day spa providing a wide selection of facials, body massages and treatments, arranged in a four-storey modern facility at riverfront. Open 11am - 11pm. Aziadee Spa 16 a/b Street 282. Tel: 023 996 921 aziadee1@yahoo.fr French-run spa offering a good choice

of treatments, a range of massages, scrubs, facials, floral baths, manicures, pedicures and waxing in relaxing and tranquil surroundings. Open 9am-9pm.

American Derma-Rx products, minor dermatologic surgery, antioxidant boosters, chemical peeling, and lipolysis. Open 9am - 9pm.

in the privacy of an intimate setting. Treatments are provided with international and local high-end products. Open daily: 10am – 10pm

Bi Nail Salon 213a E0 Stret 310 Tel: 023 6324 524 / 097 798 1122 Bi NAiL is a full service nail salon, for both women and men. Our Japanesetrained nail artists have years of experience. We provide expert personal care in a quiet and relaxing atmosphere. Full Set Care (Manicure and Pedicure) More than 250 Nail Lacquers and More than 350 Nail Design Simples. Acrylic and Gel Nail (Gel Colors) are available. Open daily 8am – 7pm.

Derma-MK Skin Center 183 Street 63. Tel: 023 452 5626 Focused on Dermalogica products, this care facility offers facial treatments, including anti-aging and brightening, as well as body treatments such as body scrubs and massage.

Villa Spa 456 Monivong Blvd., (cnr. Street 466) Tel: 023 721 765 / 012 357 561 www.asiagarden.com.kh Aromatherapy massage in private boutique VIP rooms (villa and bungalow style) from professional Chinese and Khmer therapists from Master Kang; women customers only.

Bliss 29 Street 240. Tel: 023 215 754 Health spa at back and upstairs in this beautiful French colonial building. Open 9am - 9pm, closed Monday. Bodia Spa 26-28 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 226 199 www.bodia-spa.com Using natural, own-brand products Bodia spa offers body wraps, floral baths, scrubs, facials, aromatherapy, massages and mani-pedies, alongdside Jacuzzi and steam. The peaceful atmosphere is enhanced by scented oils and soft music. Open daily 9am – 9pm. Derma-Care Skin Clinic 161B Norodom Tel: 023 720 042 / 012 415 552 Two qualified dermatologists, this professional skin clinic offers a range of beauty treatments using

TROPICAL & TRAVELLERS MEDICAL CLINIC Dr.Scott BSc.MBChB. DRCOG.DipVen. (U.K.) -20 years of medical experience in Cambodia

Tel: 012 898981 No.88 St.108 Phnom Penh www.travellersmedicalclinic.com

Aircon Restaurant Art Exhibitions Dance Theatre German Classes Film School Musical Events Fixed +855 (0)23 224 140 Mobile +855 (0)10 312 333 Homepage: www.meta-house.com Email: mesterharm@gmx.net 80 asialife Cambodia

Workshop Space Open-Air-Cinema

Dermal Spa 4C Street 57 Tel: 023 720 042 / 012 415 552 Spa offering beauty salon, foot massage and body massage servies, specializes in Dermalogica skin and beauty products. Open daily 9am – 9pm. EL Skin and Wellness Centre 115E0 Street 101. Tel: 012 681 948 Using Dermalogica, L’Oréal, Jane Iredale and OPI products for a variety of face and body treatments, spa provides a professional, relaxed ambience for customers to sample products before purchase. Open 9am - 7pm. LA ROSE Spa 164b Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 211 130 / 080 900 900 www.larose.com.kh Professional, experienced, qualified therapists offer a tailor-made range of remedial, relaxation and nutritional advice. High-end natural products and a wide range of homeopathic remedies, creams, flower essences and signature organic massage oils. Master Kang Health Care Centre 456 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 721 765 Health centre next to Man Han Lou Restaurant offers foot massage in public or private rooms, with both Chinese and oil massage. A grand piano is played in the evenings. Open 10am - 12pm. Passion Spa & Salon 29 Street 302 Tel: 081 998 227 / 089 998 227 Dedicated to helping you celebrate a happier, healthier lifestyle. Your Day in a healthy, beautiful way. Open daily 9am – 10pm. Raffles Amrita Spa Tel: 023 981 888 Raffles Amrita Spa offers relaxation and rejuvenation through a wide selection of services and facilities including treatment rooms, outdoor lap and fun pool, Jacuzzi, fitness centre, sauna and steam room. Open daily 6am - 10pm. The Spa at NagaWorld Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 This luxurious spa promises to bring the ancient Cambodian spa therapy to the world, and claims to be the only all-suite unisex spa in Cambodia. Therapy rooms with sauna, steam and flower bath are inviting, and the spa uses Tomichik flowers as part of its treatment. Open 10am - 3am. So SPA with L’Occitane Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Tel: 063 964 600 Offers rejuvenating world traditions combined with French cosmetology

Sports General

Ball Hockey Played every Thursday night at City Villa, corner of Streets 360 and 71 at 7pm. To play, contact Mike: michaelwarford@ispp.edu.kh Beeline Arena Sangkat Chroychangva, Phnom Penh Tel: 067 716 565 www.banzaicambodia.com Located on the Chroy Changvar peninsula, facing the city of Phnom Penh, the Beeline Arena is the first multi-purpose sports arena in Cambodia with international standard, including Multi-surface state of the art FIFA regulation pitch, 2,000 person capacity, VIP lounge and restaurant. Rental for futsal, basketball, volleyball, events and more. Open daily 8am until late. Cambodian Federation of Rugby cambodianfederationofrugby.com Proper 15-a-side rugby league with four senior teams as well as kid’s touch and women’s rugby teams. Contact Larry: khmer_rugby@yahoo.co.uk for more details. Cambodia Golf & Country Club Route 4, Kompong Speur Tel: 023 363 666 International standard, 18-hole golf course. Open 6am until dark. Football: The Bayon Wanderers www.bayonwanderers.com Mixed Khmer and western team. Training at the City Villa court on Wednesday and Friday, 8pm to 10pm, Old Stadium on Tuesday from 4.30 pm. Contact Billy Barnaart on 012 803 040 (available from 11am to 10pm). Sunday play at 2pm. Hash House Harriers 8, Street 360 (cnr. Street 71) Meets at the railway station every Sunday at 2:15pm. An ideal way to see the countryside walking or running. Tel: 012 832 509. Phokeethra Country Club Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Tel:063 964 600 reservation.angkor@phokeethragolf.com International standard 18-hole, 72-par golf. Clubhouse facilities: pro shop, rental equipment, restaurant. Phnom Penh Ultimate Frisbee A fast paced fun game that is open to everyone, regardless of skill set or gender, Phnom Penh Ultimate has weekly games at ISPP and Northbridge. Contact CraigDGerard@gmail.com for details on times and locations. Touch Rugby Mixed touch rugby is played most Saturday afternoons at 3-5pm at ISPP. Contact pptouchrugby@gmail.com.


Listings

family Cafés & Restaurants

Café Fresco II Cnr. Streets 51 & 306 Tel: 023 224 891 Let your children play with puzzles and Lego on beanbags, watch films like the Lion King looked after by a trained staff as you enjoy your cappuccino. Open daily 6am - 9pm. Java Café 56 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 420 Kid’s menu includes chicken nuggets and pizza bagels. Colouring pages and crayons to keep the kids amused. Highchair is available on request and babychanging facilities are in the toilet. Open daily 7am - 10pm Le Jardin 16 Street 360 Tel: 011 723 399 This garden retreat has a great kids’ area with playhouse and sandbox, specialises in birthday parties, with cake, decorations, toys and drawing materials provided for children of all ages. Open Tue – Sun, 8am - 8pm.

Entertainment

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 012 231 755 Sports centre and a peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding in an amazing landscape 15 minutes away from the city. Dedicated to leisure, rest and entertainment, CCC is suitable for children. Open daily 6.30am until late. Dragon Water Park Diamond Island (Koh Pich) Tel: 023 45 54 023 / 023 224 776 Clean-Safe-Exciting! Wonderful Water World, the biggest amusement land, fit for all ages. Have fun with Crystal Blue Clear Water, immense pools, giant slides up to 15m high & water toys. Open daily 10:30am until late. Monkey Business Paragon Department Store, Second Floor. Tel: 023 319 319 Kids can rejoice now that this indoor children’s play centre offers clean, safe facilities. Available for private parties. Open daily 9am - 8pm. Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park Phnom Tamao Cambodia’s best wildlife centre. All the animals are either rescued from traders or bred at the centre. Many of the animals are critically endangered. Open 8am - 4pm.

International Schools

Eton House International School 16 Mao Tse Tung Blvd Tel: 023 22 8818 www.ehis.co Eton House is committed to the pursuit of excellence in education. Eton House is represented in 10 countries with over 56 pre-schools and schools around the world. In our early years program we offer a playbased, ‘Inquire, Think, Learn” pedagogy. This programme has been inspired by the I.B program and the Reggio Emilia schools of Northern Italy. Ages: 18months - 6years. Full and Half Day Programs Footprints School 220 Street 430, Tumnub Teuk, Tel: 077 222084 www.footprintsschool.edu.kh Established in 2007 Footprints School offers nursery (age 2) through grade 6 and has 4 campuses. The curriculum is designed for the dynamic needs and interests of our students and the staff are hired for their experience and love for children. Giving Tree International Elementary School of Phnom Penh 40 Street 334. Tel: 017 997 112 www.thegivingtreeschool.com Established to provide an exceptional, affordable, and unique learning environment, based on small class sizes and a international curriculum incorporating compassion, communication, conservation, contemplation, creativity, conscience and global citizenship. ICan International School 85 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 222 418 www.ican.edu.kh Offers affordable, high quality education to 330 children, aged 2-12, from 31 different nationalities, using British curriculum. iCAN is a contemporary, purpose-built school and is the first in Cambodia with interactive whiteboards in every classroom. International School of Phnom Penh 146 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 213 103 www.ispp.edu.kh Founded in 1989, this non-profit, nonsectarian international school currently has over 600 students from Pre-K to Grade 12. The largest international school with over 70 professional teachers, and a fully-authorized IB programme. Lycée Français René Descartes Street 96. Tel: 023 722 044 French school offering primary and secondary level education, extra-curricula activities include basketball, football, rugby.

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Northbridge International School 1km off National Road 4 on the way to the airport. Tel: 023 886 000 www.nisc.edu.kh Founded in 1997, NISC is a fullyauthorized IB World School with a growing enrollment of 500 students age 3 to Grade 12. Spectacular purpose built campus unlike any in Cambodia. Zaman International School 2843 Street 3. Tel: 023 214 040 www.zamanisc.org International school that teaches a full curriculum to children from four to 18. Facilities include basketball and volleyball courts, a football field and a science lab.

Pre-Schools

Canadian International School of Phnom Penh Bassac Garden, Norodom Boulevard Tel: 023 727 788 / 077 503 778 www.cisp.edu.kh Offers a Canadian curriculum in English, certified through the Canadian province of New Brunswick. DK Schoolhouse No. 7 St. 466 078 777 466 / 095 777 466 www.dkschoolhouse.com DK Schoolhouse is an early learning preschool/kindergarten for children aged 2-6. Established by long time residents of the Kingdom, DK Schoolhouse aims to minimize the gap between quality and cost in education while providing a safe and stimulating learning environment. Our staff are native English speaking, qualified early childhood educators. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-4:00pm Sat 9:0011:00am (by appointment only). Gecko & Garden Pre-school 3 Street 21. Tel: 092 575 431 www.geckogarden-preschool.org This is a not-for-profit pre-school, established over ten years ago, which emphasises learning through creative play in a supportive environment forchildren aged 18 months to 5 years. Open daily 7:30am - 12pm. An after school program offering a range of fun activities is available 2:30pm - 5pm daily. The Giving Tree Nursery and Preschool House #17, Street 71, Bkk

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Tel: 017 997 112 www.thegivingtreeschool.com Preschool committed to providing a nurturing and supportive environment that supports and extends the child’s overall development. With an international, experienced team of teachers the school offers a play-based programme that is fun and motivating. Sambo’s Tots www.sambostots.com Playhouse and playschool provides fun edutainment experience for babies and toddlers from 3 months to 5 years where imagination comes to life. Tchou Tchou 13 Street 21 Tel: 023 362 899, www.tchou-tchou.com Kindergarten and pre-school for 18 months to 5-year-olds, open from 7.30am to 12pm (Mon to Fri). French is the main language, although English and Khmer is also practised.

Shops

Monument Toys 111 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 217 617 To the rear of Monument Books is a well-stocked toy section. It features an excellent range of well-known board games and toys including Barbie dolls, Transformers, Magic 8 balls and more. It has to be the best place in the city for brand name toys and games. Open daily 7.30am - 8pm. Shade 7 Outdoor Living Co Ltd Showroon; Borey Chamkarmon Tel: 077 962 467 david@shade7.com www.shade7.com www.springfreetrampoline.com Supplier of Shade7 premium aluminium umbrellas and exclusive distributor of original Springfree range. World class products now available in Cambodia! Stock in country for immediate supply. Toys & Me 159A Mao Tse Toung Blvd. Tel: 023 212 081 / 016 808 676 www.toysnme.net Established in 2007, Toys & Me is a leading toys shop in Cambodia. A onestop shop you can trust when it comes to educational needs for your children. Willi Shop 769 Monivong Blvd Tel: 023 211 652 All products are imported from France, including bébé brand baby products, the range includes prams, baby care, cots and toys. Open 8am - 8pm.


kids corner

Party Time! Gemma Mullen Children’s birthday parties — you either love them or loathe them. But you can be sure that your little one is going to be expecting “the biggest, most amazingest party ever!” No pressure, then. In my opinion, it’s a good idea to keep a children’s party fairly simple. There really isn’t any need to throw a bonanza with clowns, bouncy castles and pony rides. However, you do need to plan the party well. What’s the theme? How many kids will there be? Do you need games? Where will it take place? There’s nothing wrong with having a party at home, but you could also make use of a park, a child-friendly restaurant such as Le Jardin or another fun location like Kids City. If your little one is of school age, there’s going to be a guest list. Rushing around for a last-minute present because of a late invitation can be quite stressful, so keep other parents in mind by sending out invitations at least a week ahead of time. When choosing the invitations, consider getting your little one to make them. It saves money and gets your child involved. Even a simple handprint on some coloured card, along with the party details, will suffice and also makes a nice keepsake for the guests.

The party schedule will depend greatly on the ages of the children invited. Two or three hours is usually more than enough for children aged up to five – you don’t want them getting bored and restless. Of course, older children can help plan their party and make their own list of things they want to do with their guests. Ideas such as sleepovers or going swimming are ideal. Younger children may need some help with this. Having some ready-to-go activities up your sleeve, such as blowing bubbles, will be useful in the event of a lull in the pandemonium. Do’s and don’ts • Do try to keep party food relatively healthy, as 20 children on a sugar rush is never much fun to deal with. • Do give out party bags at the end. Children always enjoy taking something away from a party to remember it by. • Do use the day as an opportunity to meet other parents and make new friends yourself. • Don’t stress out if the kids are making lots of noise and mess. Remember, they are children; this is what they do and it is only for one day. • Don’t be embarrassed to ask for help from other mums or carers. Nobody expects you to do it all on your own.

Gemma Mullen has been working in child care for more than 10 years. She holds an NNEB diploma in nursery nursing and is currently a creative writing teacher at Zaman International School in Phnom Penh.

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services

money matters

Listings

business & services Architecture, Interior Design & Construction

How Safe Is Your Money? Paul Dodd The sight of queues outside ATM machines can set off a tinge of anxiety. I am sure most expats in Phnom Penh saw similar scenes recently, but they are far from unique to Cambodia. We saw far worse earlier this year when the Cypriot government announced a one-off bank deposit levy of 6.7 percent for deposits up to €100,000 and 9.9 percent for higher deposits. The banks were inundated with tens of thousands of people desperate to get their money out, cumulating with rioting in the streets and one group of furious protesters storming the parliament building. It begs the question: how safe is your money and how quickly could you get it if you wanted it? It’s certainly a question worth considering for expats, as they tend to move around and you never know where the next banking crisis will occur. Let’s face it, neither Iceland and Cyprus were considered risky before problems arose. My recommendation to people who are concerned about banking arrangements is to get an international account held in a place where the bank is a member of a government compensation

scheme. These schemes guarantee deposits up to a certain amount, normally around $75,000. That gives a high level of security, which may not be available in the country where your bank is based. As well as being safe, international bank accounts can offer numerous benefits to expats. Chief among them is the level of confidentiality regarding your banking arrangements. For many expats, maintaining this level of privacy is important. Another feature of international accounts that is particularly relevant to expats is the lack of exchange control restrictions. This makes it a very straightforward matter when transferring money around the world, something I am sure that most of us have to do from time to time. Most international accounts also pay gross interest and may offer tax advantages, but for me that is secondary to access. If you are working in a country and disaster strikes, you want to be absolutely certain that your funds are intact, and that you can get access when you need them. After all, that is probably going to be when you need your money the most.

Paul Dodd is an area manager at Infinity Financial Solutions. This company provides impartial, tailor-made, personal financial advice to clients in Cambodia and Southeast Asia. Should you wish to contact Paul, please send an email to info@ infinitysolutions.com or visit infinitysolutions.com.

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Beyond Interiors 14e Street 306 Tel: 023 987 840 / 012 930 332 ww.beyondinteriors.biz Managed by Australian designer Bronwyn Blue, this interior design showroom can provide the ultimate design solution to your interior dilemma. All products from Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia and Cambodia have been treated to withstand any climate. Open 9am - 7pm Bill Grant Landscape Design Tel: 012 932 225 / 012 738 134 The city’s most talented landscape designer. Green Goal Ltd 10 Street 296. Tel: 023 223 861 Consultancy offers sustainable and creative architectural and construction services to clients taking into account environmental considerations. Hemisphere Design & Interiors Tel: 012 602 955 william@norbert-munns.com Western managed renovation company specialising in swimming pools and Jacuzzi construction in fibreglass and concrete. I Ching Decor 85 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 220 873 / 012 558 000 / 092 660 746, Boutique interior design shop offering advice on architectural work and interior design, as well as providing custommade furniture, home accessories, kitchenware, lighting and bedroom suites. Open 9am - 6pm, closed Sun. The Room Design Studio 9AB Street 288. Tel: 023 992 620 Interior design and architectural company that has 12 years’ experience of designing flats, villas, offices, shops, homes and offices in Asia.

Bikes & Mechanics

Dara Motorbike 43 Street 136. Tel: 012 335 499 Off-road specialist offers repairs, parts and accessories. Tours can be arranged by appointment. Emerald Garage 11 Street 456 Mechanics specialising in maintenance and repair of vehicles, including oil changing and body painting. The Bike Shop 31 Street 302. Tel: 012 851 776 Repairs trusty steeds as well as renting them out in the first place. Also provides dirt bike tours. Western Service Centre 24 Street 420. Tel: 012 477 831 www.wmg-cambodia.com admin@wmg-cambodia.com A garage with Western and Khmer staff that emphasises communication and trained, attentive skills. Motto is “We don’t know all, we find out all, then we fix.”

Business Groups

Australian Business Association of Cambodia (ABAC) 20 Street 114 (cnr. Street 67) For information, contact Derek Mayes. Tel:012 385 157 abacambodia@gmail.com British Business Association of Cambodia (BBAC) 35 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 012 803 891 Contact enquiries@bbacambodia.com Chambre de Commerce FrancoCambodgienne Office 2nd floor, 33 Street 178 Tel: 023 221 453. www.ccfcambodge.org Canadian Cooperation Office Cambodia Commissioner Service 50 Street 334. Tel: 023 215 496 www.cco-cambodia.org Malaysian Business Council of Cambodia Unit G21, Ground Floor, Parkway Square 113, Mao Tse Tung Blvd. mbcc.secretariat@gmail.com

Car Rental

ACC Car Rental Services 43 Street 160z Toul Kork Tel. 012 456 003 / 015 456 003. Professional, prompt and organised rental service that provides vehicles for rent with or without a driver. ACC also rents a range of buses that seat from 12 to 45 people. All vehicles can be delivered to your door. Asia Vehicle Rental 27 Street 134. Tel: 078 666 557 www.avrcambodia.com With the motto “leave your driving to us”, the rental service offers sedans, pick-ups, SUVs and minibuses in 2WD or 4WD for self-drive or with driver. Insurance offered. Larryta Trading & Travel Co. Ltd. 9 Street 310. Tel: 023 994 748 www.larrytacarrental.com.kh Vehicle rental for all types of cars, vans and mini-buses with flexible go-anywhere packages to all areas of Cambodia and neighbouring countries by the day, week or month. Royal Limousine Services Attwood Business Center, Russian Confederation Blvd. Tel : 023 218 808 www.royallimousine.com.kh Fleet of late model Mercedes that provides transport for hotels, embassies and luxury tour operators as well as foreign delegates.

Commercial Banks

Acleda Bank 61 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 998 777 www.acledabank.com.kh Specialises in micro, small and medium loans to people throughout the country. ANZ Royal Bank Main Branch, 20 Street 114 www.anzroyal.com Cambodia’s major commercial bank has brought international standards of banking to Cambodia, with a large number of ATM machines around Phnom Penh. Can arrange money transfers. CIMB Bank PLC 20AB Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 988 388 www.cimbbank.com.kh Full range of commercial and consumer banking products and services for both Cambodian and foreign businesses and individuals. The first Japanese bank in Cambodia. Maruhan Japan Bank 83 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 010 First Japanese bank in Phnom Penh.


Dara Motorbike 43 Street 136, Tel: 012 335 499 Off-road specialist offers repairs, parts and accessories. Tours can be arranged by appointment.

Tel: 023 211 700 / 010 624 001 www.ocean-tech.biz Technology company that offers GPS navigation systems, an online map directory and vehicle tracking system.

Internet Provider

Emerald Garage 11 Street 456 Mechanics specialising in maintenance and repair of vehicles, including oil changing and body painting.

EMAXX 99 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 818 EMAXX offers fast internet access via WiMAX, Optical Fiber and Satellite.

The Bike Shop 31 Street 302. Tel: 012 851 776 Repairs trusty steeds as well as renting them out in the first place. Also provides dirt bike tours.

AG Cambodia Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sovanna Sisowath Quay Tel: 017 360 333. nfo@agcambodia.com Professional insurance agent offering health, home, car, factory, employee and hotel insurance packages.

Western Service Centre 24 Street 420. Tel: 012 477 831 www.wmg-cambodia.com admin@wmg-cambodia.com A garage with Western and Khmer staff that emphasises communication and trained, attentive skills.

IT & Software

Cresittel Co., Ltd. Office 705, KT Tower, 23 Street 112. Tel 098 518 888 Company that provides software solutions and systems, point of sales systems for bars and restaurants, website designing and telecoms consulting. Has showroom at 385 Street 215. Netpro Cambodia 11 Street 422. Tel: 023 215 141 www.netpro-cambodia.com, IT supports company that delivers high quality and reliable services to home and small to medium size organisations in Cambodia. Ocean Technology T-20 St Topaz, Sovanna Shopping Centre

services

Bikes & Mechanics

Insurance

Infinity Insurance 126 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 888 Prfessional insurance company offers motor, property, home, marine cargo, personal accident, healthcare, construction and engineering insurance. Group policies can be customized.

Legal

BNG Legal 64 Street 111. www.bnglegal.com Tel: 023 212 671 / 023 212 740 BNG Legal is a leading Cambodian law firm providing comprehensive legal services to foreign and local clients. We differentiate ourselves by coupling a deep understanding of the local business environment with international professionalism and integrity. DFDL Legal and Tax Advisors 33 Street 294. Tel: 023 210 400 www.dfdlmekong.com Law firm providing international standard legal and tax solutions with local and cross-border experience with offices in neighbouring countries.

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services

Gordon and Associates Asia (Cambodia) 21 Street 214. Tel: 023 218 257 US lawyer works with local Cambodian lawyers to provide international quality advice. Specialises in foreign investment, joint ventures and advising entrepreneurs with an in depth knowledge of the telecoms, agriculture, banking and hospitality sectors. Sciaroni & Associates 24 Street 462. Tel: 023 210 225 Law firm with a good reputation. Just the ticket if you get into a spot of bother.

Media & Design

Anon Creative Energy Tel: 089 812 123 anoncambodia@gmail.com Internationally trained advertising talent at your service. Strong, strategic ideas. Available for freelance art and copy writing projects. Asia Media Lab Tel: 012 818 917. www.asiamedialab.com Full service video production company specialises in the creation of dynamic visual content to help bring NGO stories to life for fundraising and advocacy.

Miscellaneous

Sunbird Angkor Co. Ltd. 78 Monireth Blvd. Tel: 023 98 3333 / 023 99 1010 sunbirdangkor@yahoo.co.kr Worldwide Hotel Reservation, Car Rental Service, Worldwide Medical Service, Convention, Marketing. Open Mon~Fri 8am ~5:30pm & Sat 8am~1pm Sunbird Global Co., Ltd. 78 St. Monireth Blvd. Tel: 023 98 3333 / 023 99 1010 sunbirdglobal@yahoo.co.kr Insurance Service, Air Cargo, Worldwide Express, Trading. Open Mon~Fri 8am ~5:30pm & Sat 8am~1pm

Post Office

Main Post Office Cnr. Streets 102 & 13 The place to go if you want to send something overseas or get a PO Box. Open 6.30am -9pm.

Photography

AsiaMotion Tel: 092 806 117. www.asiamotion.net Photographic agency established in November 2008 as a cooperation between local and international photographers. Nathan Horton Photography Tel: 092 526 706 www.nathanhortonphotography.com Full service professional photographer. Hotels, bars, restaurants, spas and location work. Call for Travel Photography workshops and tours.

Printing

Sok Heng Printing House 1297B Street Luo 5, Stoeung Mean Chey Tel: 011 939 255 / 012 939 255 Modern print house providing a full range of printing services. Graphic design available.

Real Estate and Property Services

240Condo 50B Street 240. Tel: 012 271 636 www.240phnompenh.com 240 is the home of 42 luxury serviced apartments set in the most stylish area of the city with spectacular river and city views. The condominium was designed by leading international architects gfab and represents the most contemporary luxury apartment development currently available in Cambodia.

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CB Richard Ellis (Cambodia) Co., Ltd. 9th Floor, Hyundai Phnom Penh Tower 445 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 964 099 www.cbre.com.kh The world’s largest commercial real estate services company offering premier quality real estate, valutions, consultancy, investment and property services. Property Care Services (PCS) 2A Road 7. Tel: 017 555 203 Solution for property support services, including waste management, security, pest control and cleaning. Only company to clean high-rise windows with abseilers.

Relocation, Shipping

Crown 115-116 Street 335. Tel: 023 881 004 www.crownrelo.com Global transportation and relocation company with over 150 offices in 50 countries, specialising in expat support and household shipment. Open 8:30am - 5:30pm Mon - Fri, 8:30am - 12pm, Sat. Home Connect Cambodia 86 Street 160. Tel: 023 88 56 85 www.homeconnect.asia Home search company, dedicated to making the home search process easy and specializing in finding rental homes for the expatriate community. Best of all for our clients, our services are FREE.

Taxi Services

Choice Taxi Tel: 023 888 023 / 090 882 882 Metered taxi service with rates from US$1 for first 2km. Giant Ibis Transport Phnom Penh Phnom Penh: 3 Street 106, next to Night Market. Tel: 023 999 333 www.giantibis.com Siem Reap: 64 Street Sivatha, Mondol 1, Svay Dankum. Travel in “Affordable Luxury” to Siem Reap and other destinations in brand new 2012 buses with comforablt reclining seats, spacious leg room, A/C, Wi-fi, complementary snacks and pick-up service. Global Meter Taxi Tel: 011 311 888 092 889 962 016 680 118 Modern metered taxi fleet with rates from less than US$1 for first two km.

Telecoms

Ezecom 7D Russian Blvd. Tel: 023 888 181 www.ezecom.com.kh Internet service provider that promises boundless internet packages suited to everyone’s needs. Good packages for those looking for unlimited downloads. Mobitel 33 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 012 801 801 Largest ISP in the country. Major mobile phone company which issues the 012 SIM card. Smart Mobile 464A Preah Monivong Blvd. Tel: 010 201 000 www.smart.com.kh facebook.com/SmartMobileKH One of the most dynamic and fastest growing mobile telecom service providers in the country. Issues the 010, 069, 070, 086, 093 and 098 prefixes.


Listings

shopping Art

Hanuman Fine Arts 13B Street 334, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 211 916 tradition@hanumanfinearts.com High quality, beautiful antiques and objets d’art from all over the Kingdom. Furniture, ornaments, silverware, jewellery and more are well displayed in a treasure trove of a store. Very helpful and friendly staff. Open 8am - 5pm. Happy Painting Gallery 363 Sisowath Quay (nr. FCC) Tel : 023 221 732 www.happypainting.net Established in 1995 this art gallery is dedicated to Stef, a local icon artist with a very personal and positive insight into everyday life in Cambodia. Open 8am - 10pm

Beauty Products

Angkor Soap 16C Street 374 Tel: 023 223 720 / 015 935 789. www.angkorsoaps.com Specialising in handmade soaps and natural spa products. Open daily 8am - 5pm Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Hotel Le Royal. Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh spa. phnompenh@raffles.com Distinctive collection of Raffles Amrita spa private label and international spa products are available for purchase. Open 6am - 10pm.

Books & CDS

Carnets d’Asie French Cultural Centre 218 Street 184. Tel: 012 799 959 French-language bookshop has sections on Cambodia and Asia as well as general fiction, with a good range of French magazines and newspapers. Open 8am - 8pm

D’s Books 79 Street 240 & 12E Street 178 Tel: 012 726 355 www.facebook.com/ ds.books.shops New and used bookshops with over 20,000 original books and some copies, with a great range of best sellers. Coffee, smoothies and more available all day at Street 240. Open 9am to 9pm.

handmade pieces produced at Artisans Angkor’s workshops in Siem Reap province: silk scarves, clothing and accessories, home furnishings, lacquer paintings and tableware, stone and wooden sculptures, silver-plated ornaments and silk paintings. Special commissions and custom orders welcome.

Le Phnom Shop Raffles Hotel Le Royal. Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh, Small shop offering books and souvenirs including recipes from the hotel’s pastry chef. Open 7am - 9pm.

Artwood 6B Street 302. Tel: 016 934 999 www.artwood.asia Drop in to our showroom to experience modern wooden furniture designed and manufactured in Cambodia. Offers free consultations for both commercial and residential custom-made needs.

A.N.D. 52c Street 240. Tel: 017 854 726 artisandesigners@gmail.com The designers at A.N.D. work with many local artisans, giving a fashion twist to traditional skills: look for generously-sized ikat wraps in pure cotton, innovative up-cycled bags, and covetable jewellery combining hand-carved hardwoods with silver and vintage porcelain.

DeCosy 219 Street 19 Tel: 023 219 276 Stocking charming knick-knacks and furniture,is the place to find the things to make your house a home. Open daily from 9am to 7pm.

Bambou Indochine 7 Street 178. Tel: 023 214 720, Facebook: bambouindochine High-quality T-shirts, Polo shirts and comfortable clothes in original designs. A full-range of sizes for men, women and children. Open daily 8am -10pm.

NatureWild 10Eo Street 420 Tel: 023 727 407 www.naturewildcambodia.com A sustainable lifestyle store featuring community products made from natural and wild materials from the forests of Cambodia, ideal for gifts.

Beautiful Shoes 138 Street 143. Tel: 012 848 438 Family-run business measures your feet and designs the shoe exactly as you wish. The shop also caters for men. Open from 7am to 6.30pm.

Monument Books 111 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 217 617 Extensive range of new Englishlanguage books in town including recent releases and sections on Asia, Cambodia, travel, cuisine, design and management. Good children’s section as well as a wide choice of magazines and newspapers. Open 7am - 8.30pm.

Crafts & Furniture

Art des Lignes 42B Mao Tse Toung Blvd. Tel: 012 211 520 www.artdeslignes.com This new interior design showroom provides branded products of highquality like luxury leather sofas and LED lighting, as well as furniture and metal artworks in contemporary style. Upstairs, the architecture and interior design office can offer complete solutions for projects, with a resolutely modern spirit and French Touch. Open 8:30am - 7:00pm .closed Sun. Artisans Angkor 12AEo Street 13 (in front of Post Office) Open daily from 9am to 6pm Tel: 023 992 409 www.artisansdangkor.com Boutique with a wide range of traditional and contemporary

Pavillon d’Asie 24, 26 Sihanouk Blvd Tel: 012 497 217 Antique lovers dream, a large array of well-restored furniture and decorative objects. Wooden cabinets jostle for space with Buddha statues and old wooden boxes. Upstairs are pieces from the French colonial era. Open 10am - 7pm, closed Sun.

Fashion

Ambre 37 Street 178. Tel: 023 217 935 The high-end fashion designs created by Cambodian designer Romyda

Keth are popular all over the world, this beautiful colonial building makes the perfect setting for the city’s most glamorous design shop. Also has men’s fashion. Open 10am - 6pm, closed Sun.

Bliss 29 Street 240. Tel: 023 215 754 A beautiful colonial building houses this exquisite shop with funky patterned cushions, quilts and an excellent clothing line. The health spa at the back of the shop also sells Spana beauty products. Open from 9am to 9pm (closed Mondays). Color Vintage 168 Street 13 Color Vintage is Phnom Penh’s premiere shop for refined vintage styles for men and women. We source authentic articles from around the world and offer free alterations for a perfect fit! Buy, sell or exchange.

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Couleurs D’Asie 33 Street 240 Tel: 023 221 075/ 099 499 478 www.couleursdasie.net info@couleursdasie.net Established in Cambodia for more than 15 years, Couleurs d´Asie has developed a full range of textile products for home decoration, clothing and fashion accessories. Jewellery, essential oils, soaps and more are on offer. A custom service for existing products is also available. Jasmine Boutique 73 Street 240. Tel: 023 223 103 www.jasmineboutique.net Established in 2001 by Kellianne Karatau and Cassandra McMillan, this boutique creates its own collection of designs twice a year using hand-woven Cambodian silk. Open 8am - 6pm. Khmer Attitude Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 Fashion boutique that offers the finest Khmer silk clothing for men, women and children, including designs by Romyda Keth, and exclusive jewellery that complement the limited edition outfits. La Clef de Sol A design boutique offering home decor, women’s fashion, kids clothes, bags, accessories and continually updated design surprises. Next to K’nyay restaurant, in the alley across the park from java cafe. Open 10am - 7pm, closed Sun. Lim Keo 9 Street 222. Tel: 012 941 643 Pret a porter by Lim Keo, son of Sylvain Lim, the master of Cambodian fashion. Lost‘N’ Found Vintage Store 321 Street 63 cnr Street 322 Tel: 023 640 5047 Vibrant vintage shop offering a selection of interesting, handpicked second-hand dresses, handbags, belt, purses and other accessories. Men’s clothing available too. The collection is constantly changing and the attractive prices already make it popular amongst expats. Luna Boutique 8E1Street 278. Tel: 023 220 176 www.lunaboutiquephnompenh.com Original and stylish fashion designs

88 asialife Cambodia

for men and women, from work suits to evening dresses. The tailor-made creations, designed by modern Cambodian stylist Mengchou Kit, are fit for any occasion. Luna Boutique is located in the heart of Phnom Penh, in front of Anise Hotel, while its sister shop - Luna Shoes - is just next door and hosts a large selection of shoes, bags, and women’s accessories to complement your style. Open daily 8am - 9pm. Promesses and Kaprices 20 Street 282. Tel: 023 993 527 Lingerie shop stocked with exclusive French and Thai undergarments. Chic, new prêt-à-porter shop Kaprices is located upstairs. Open 9am - 7pm. SALT 2 Street 294 Tel: 012 815 066 SentosaSilk’s younger sibling has just opened in the comfortable surroundings of BKK1. Its stylish wooden interior complements the products sold, ranging from bags and shoes, clothes and dresses to accessories. Open daily 9am - 7pm SentosaSilk Uniform 33 Sothearos Blvd, cnr Street 178 Tel: 012 962 911/ 023 222 974 sentosa@online.com.kh Well known for its professional management ability, SentosaSilk gives clients efficient and reliable service through quality systems and procedures that consistently enhance product quality and reliability. Sobbhana Boutique 23-24 Street 144/49 Tel: 023 219 455/ 023 219 452 www.sobbhana.org, A not for profit organisation founded by Princess Norodom Marie, offering a range of colourful, handwoven silk products. Profits fund training, medical care and education of weavers. Smateria 8Eo Street 5. Tel: 023 211 701 7 Street 178. Tel: 023 214 720 www.smateria.com Boutique specialising in accessories made from recycled materials including a range of bags and wallets made from old fruit juice cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets.


Subtyl 43 Street 240. Tel 023 992 710 www.subtyl.com Up-market boutique selling Cambodian handmade women’s clothes, scarves, shoes, bags and other accessories in contemporary and interesting designs, the Subtyl collection combines class with colour. ChilliKids children’s clothing is also stocked at the shop. Open 9am - 7pm.

Food & Wine

AusKhmer – The Pantry Shop 125 Street 105 Tel: 023 993 859 /023 214 478 This small deli features a variety of well priced wines, Australian beers, and French delicacies, cheeses, antipasti, and cold cuts. Open 10am - 8pm. Camory – Premium Cookie Boutique 167 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 224 937 Makes cookies using produce from the provinces such as cashews from Kampong Cham and Mondulkiri honey. A portion of the profits fund education for a local orphanage. Open 9am - 8.30pm. Celliers d’Asie 62B & 98 Street 432. Tel: 023 986 350 Wine supplier with the largest quantity of retail stock in town, has been providing wine to most of the top hotels and restaurants for over ten years. Open 8am -12pm, 2pm - 6pm, closed Sun. Comme a la Maison 13 Street 57. Tel: 012 951 869 Decidedly sophisticated French restaurant has a small delicatessen and bakery at the back of the restaurant ideal for that morning baguette or croissant with your coffee. Open from 6am - 10.30pm. Dan Meats 51A Street 214. Tel: 012 906 072 Phnom Penh’s man of meat, Lanzi, supplies his strictly non-vegetarian products to many restaurants around town. Open7:30 - 6:30, closed Sun. Kurata Pepper Cnr. Streets 63 & 322. Tel: 023 726 480 Selling organic Koh Kong pepper and associated products, Kurata is one of the more unusual shops in town. Open daily 8am - 7pm.

Open Wine 219 Street 19 Tel: 023 223 527 Aircon wine shop and tasting gallery sells wines, severac, calvados and meat. Open 7pm - 11pm. Red Apron 15-17 Eo Street 240 Tel: 023 990 951 Home of wine enthusiasts in Phnom Penh is both a wine boutique and tasting gallery. With around 300 wines, the boutique has more range than the supermarkets. Open 9am - 9pm. Supercheap Cambodia 87 Street 360. Tel: 023 631 3668 336A Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 977 779 www.supercheap.com.kh Budget shop claims to offer the biggest variety of wines and spirits in Cambodia as well as the cheapest prices. Open 8am - 10pm. The Deli

13 Street 178 Tel: 012 851 234 Café and bakery with take away breads, sandwiches and pastries. Now has a second outlet on Street 51. Open 6.30am - 6.30pm, delivery service (within 30 minutes) 7am-11pm.

Silks & Accessories

Friends ‘n’ Stuff 215 Street 13 Tel: 012 955 722 Colourful shop with unique products designed by Mith Samlahn/Friends students and parents of former street kids. Range includes cclothes, necklaces, purses and second hand goods. Has a nail bar run by students from the beauty class. Open 11am - 9pm. Mekong Quilts 49 Street 240 Tel: 023 219 607 www.mekong-quilts.org Outlet for NGO Mekong Plus, stocks a large range of hand-crafted bed covers, home accessories, gifts and decorations. Benefits Mekong Plus, which promotes health initiatives in Svay Rieng Province. Open 9am - 7pm. Sentosa Silk 33 Sothearos Blvd, cnr Street 178 Tel: 023 222 974 www.sentosasilk.com Using a colourful range of Asian silks, Sentosa creates men’s and women’s clothing, accessories and soft furnishings. Sentosa employs disadvantaged people. Open daily 8am - 7pm.

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dom

Thida Salon

The Little Garden New York Steakhouse

St. 63

Noro

ELYXIR

St. 464

Kurata Pepper

St. 380

St. 352

St. 334

St. 322

St. 360

VI Bar

St. 370

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Canadian International School

St. 498

Lost Room

St. 462

aurant

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DJ Hype in association with CODE

Opening Party @ Yi Sang

Photography by Charles Fox & Amanda Saxton

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Vibe Festival @ Doors

Sparkling Sileni @ Metro Rahu

asialife Cambodia 93


soundfix album review

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Valerie June

Billy Woods

AlunaGeorge

Julia Holter

Pushin’ Against A Stone

Dour Candy

Body Music

Loud City Song

The home of Elvis’s Graceland estate, Memphis has long had its reputation staked out as a musical hub. And if you need another reminder, here comes Valerie June. Combining gospel, folk, country, soul and blues, the 31-year-old solo artist produces a distinctive sound, worthy of putting Memphis on the map yet again. As she celebrates on the track ‘Tennessee Time’, June makes music with the slow tempo of her Southern birthplace. Her debut album Pushin’ Against A Stone earned early international claim and was heralded for its genre-crossing warmth and June’s arresting voice, which draws comparisons to Dolly Parton and Billie Holiday.

With potent releases this month from Earl Sweatshirt, Ka and Homeboy Sandman, it’s tough to select only one hip hop record for review. But the honour goes to Billy Woods’ Dour Candy, with a special nod to the Aesop Rock and Elucidfeatured track ‘Tumbleweed’. Like most of the album, the song is meditative in tone and lyrics — a departure from the type of hip-hop that folks usually grind to on the dance floor. Producer Blockhead layers dark rhythms that, when listened to in the right mindset, can be transcendent. Evoking The Roots and Talib Kweli, Billy Woods demonstrates the possibilities of intelligent, sophisticated underground rap.

Aluna Francis and George Reid kept it simple when it came to christening their musical partnership. There’s no symbolism or strategic allusions, simply the pairing of their two given names. It’s aptly straightforward for the Londonbased duo that thrives on an effective collaboration between two different sounds. Without Reid’s electro production, Francis’s Lolita vocals might come off too cloyingly sweet. Without Francis, Reid’s beats would lack the necessary oomph to make an impact. But together, the twosome produces catchy tracks such as ‘You Know You Like It’ and ‘Your Drums, Your Love’, which are destined for repeat on hipster sound systems around the world.

“Yeah, nobody knows about it. Just grandmas,” said Julia Holter when the topic of her latest album’s inspiration — the 1958 MGM musical Gigi — came up in a recent interview. Holter is a singer-songwriter and multi-instrumentalist with a taste for the obscure, having cited ancient Greek tragedy as the influence for her first two albums. Her sound can best be described as chamber pop: soaring, silvery notes over minimalist jazz instrumentation. The effect is avant-garde yet, at least on this new record, still somewhat accessible. And whether you catch the Gigi references or not, it’s hard not to appreciate Holter’s originality.

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topten

endorsed

Official 97.5 Love FM Phnom Penh Top Ten 1. We Can’t Stop 2. Come And Get It 3. Crazy Kids 4. Love Somebody 5. Can’t Hold Us 6. Mirrors 7. #That Power 8. Blurred Lines 9. Right Now 10. The Way

Miley Cyrus Selena Gomez Ke$ha Maroon 5 Macklemore Justin Timberlake will.i.am & Justin Bieber Robin Thicke Rihanna Ariana Grande

UK Top Ten 1. Blurred Lines 2. We Can’t Stop 3. Radioactive 4. Get Lucky 5. Holy Grail 6. Cups 7. Treasure 8. Clarity 9. Safe And Sound 10. Love Somebody

Robin Thicke Miley Cyrus Imagine Dragons Daft Punk Jay Z Anna Kendrick Bruno Mars Zedd Capital Cities Maroon 5

US Top Ten 1. We Can’t Stop 2. Wake Me Up 3. Trampoline 4. Summertime Sadness 5. Blurred Lines 6. Love Me Again 7. Holy Grail 8. Thinking About You 9. Best Song Ever 10. I Love It

Miley Cyrus Avicii Tinie Tempah Lana Del Rey Robin Thicke John Newsman Jay Z Calvin Harris One Direction Icona Pop

E-readers Dara Saoyuthnea

Schools and public libraries have always been good places for bookworms to borrow reading material to browse at home, but now there is something better. As technology develops, reading is moving towards new trends and E-readers are becoming ever more popular. The Kindle Touch, made by Amazon, is one of the best-selling versions and provides readers with a great experience, perhaps better than ever before. With an electronic library, you can store up to 3,000 books on the device and search for any book that you want in seconds. With more than one million books, the Kindle store lets users download any novel in less than a minute through its built-in Wi-Fi. You can bring it anywhere with you thanks to its 213-gram weight, while the touchscreen enables users to change the font size by using two fingers to zoom into pictures or pages, as on tablets or smartphones. I sometimes go to visit my relatives in the countryside and battery life can be a big concern for such an electronic device. But don’t worry, a single charge of the Kindle can last up to two months. It

sounds unbelievable, but it’s true. I own one and I haven’t charged its battery for almost a month already, and I can still use it to read every night before I go to bed. Given it’s an E-reader, it’s function is to read electronic file types. Besides reading text in the original file format, known as AZW, Kindles also support other formats such as TXT, PDF and HTML. A Kindle Touch costs $100, which is inexpensive when compared to the cost of buying the latest smartphone. In my experience, it is not easy for people to find them in Cambodia. Most Kindle users in Cambodia buy one when travelling abroad, but I hope local electronic shops will focus on this useful product soon. I am not trying to say that the Kindle Touch is perfect, but it at least gives me the joy and freedom of reading. I don’t have to worry about when the library will close during the university summer break. I’m also not afraid of having no suitable place to keep lots of books. I don’t need a big backpack for storing various books when I visit my hometown. I also feel cool when holding my Kindle Touch.

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bookshelf The Residue Years Mitchell S Jackson Bloomsbury

A tale of a mother and son trying to stay afloat despite the odds, The Residue Years spans issues of drugs, race and urban poverty. Recently out of rehab, Grace fights against her urge to return to narcotics. Meanwhile, her son Champ sells crack to support the family while working towards a dream of buying his childhood home. Set in Portland, Oregon, the novel draws on author Mitchell S Jackson’s own experiences. His familiarity with the challenges of being a disadvantaged African-American gives weight to his character portrayal and makes for a compelling, thought-provoking read.

Zealot: The Life and Times of Jesus of Nazareth Reza Aslan Random House Already a controversial bestseller, Zealot is a new biography of Jesus Christ. Reza Aslan, a doctor of religious studies who previously wrote a history of Islam, sheds new light on the man revered as the Son of God. Drawing both from historical records and the New Testament, Aslan applies a rigorous academic approach to understanding Jesus not only as a holy figure, but also as a human being. As the book’s title indicates, Jesus is depicted as a man with a revolutionary agenda and a fervent dedication to his beliefs, placing a political emphasis on his activism that some Christians have been reluctant to embrace.

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Night Film Marisha Pessl Random House Marisha Pessl follows up her celebrated 2006 first novel Special Topics in Calamity Physics with another page-turner. At the heart of the story is Scott McGrath, a journalist who is intent on probing the death of an eccentric filmmaker’s daughter. McGrath’s obsession with the case stems from a personal vendetta against the father and his suspicion of foul play in the daughter’s supposed suicide. The story is relayed through animated prose, but also via a visual pastiche of police reports, website screenshots and newspaper articles. Readers can even follow the story beyond the book’s pages by using a downloadable app.

In Times of Fading Light Eugen Ruge Faber What world existed on the eastern side of the Berlin Wall? German writer Eugen Ruge’s literary debut paints an intricate picture of East Berlin under communism. A fictionalised retelling of Ruge’s own background, the novel explores family dysfunction within a dysfunctional society. Caught between socialist ideals and disillusionment with political restrictions, the Umnitzer relatives become increasingly torn apart. In Times of Fading Light shadows four generations of the family, weaving back and forth over the years from 1952 to 2001. Cultural and historical references provide temporal context throughout the narrative, but the themes of flesh and blood are timeless.


boxoffice

The Mortal Instruments: City of Bones

Maniac

Insidious: Chapter 2

2 Guns

The trend of turning young adult fantasy novels into blockbuster films continues with City of Bones, the first of the Mortal Instruments series to reach the big screen. Clary is a normal 15 year old, growing up in New York City. Or so she thinks. She comes to realise her destiny as a Shadowhunter, a half-angel, half-human with superpowers. Like other Shadowhunters, Clary has the ability to see demons masquerading as humans and the responsibility to protect the world from their menace.

Here’s Elijah Wood as you’ve never seen him before. Known for his childhood acting and turn as hobbit Frodo Baggins in the Lord of the Rings series, the blue-eyed star ventures into the horror genre in Maniac. Dark, disturbing and violent, the film is a polished remake of the 1980 original. Wood plays Frank Zito, the withdrawn owner of a mannequin business. Beneath his shy exterior lurks homicidal tendencies towards women, which Frank tries to suppress without success.

In the first Insidious film, a son of the Lambert family became an unwilling channel to the spirit world but managed to break free. When the sequel begins, the Lamberts and their three children think they have left the worst behind. But they soon find out that evil spirits continue to haunt them. The family try to understand their enduring connection to the supernatural, which increasingly threatens their safety.

Robert Trench (Denzel Washington) and Michael Stigman (Mark Wahlberg) team up to rob a drug lord’s bank account in this actionpacked comedy. Neither of them knows that the other is an undercover agent, with each working for the DEA and the Navy, respectively. When the drug lord’s cartel tries to go after them, the two go on the run together. Neither Trench nor Stigman trusts the other, and their rocky relationship puts them in complicated situations.

Coming Soon september Movie Releases Platinum Cineplex, Sorya See platinumcineplex.com.kh for screening schedule. The Mortal Instruments: City of Bones Sept. 5 2 Guns Sept. 12 Maniac Sept. 19 Insidious: Chapter 2 Sept. 26

Legend Cinema See legend-cinemas.com for screening schedule. The Mortal Instruments: City of Bones Sept. 5 2 Tiger Girls (Khmer) Sept. 7 2 Guns Sept. 19 Korean Movie Week Sept. 19 Korean Movie Week Sept. 26 Insidious: Chapter 2 Sept. 26

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pub quiz

Letter connection 6. Who, in May 2007, became the first international number-one selling foreign artist to perform a concert in Phnom Penh? 7. Jeff Bridges and Bruce Boxleitner reprised their roles in a 2010 sequel to which 1982 sci-fi film about a computer programmer? 8. Which Japanese word for a samurai with no lord or master was used as the title for a 1997 thriller starring Robert De Niro and Jean Reno? 9. In Greek mythology, who youngest of the first generation of Titans and the father of Zeus? 10. Who won the FIFA World Player of the Year award in 2004 and 2005?

based disco band had a hit single based on her life and death? 18. Young Guns II , based on the life of Billy the Kid, had the theme song ‘Blaze of Glory’. Who recorded it? 19. Which Australian outlaw has been played on film by both Heath Ledger and Mick Jagger? 20. Born in Uttar Pradesh, how was outlaw-turned-politician Phoolan Devi better known?

Time 21. Which band won a Grammy for the 2004 song ‘Clocks’? 22. Who wrote the novel The Time Machine? 23. How many time zones are there in China? 24. ‘The Time Warp’ is a song featured in which 1973 rock musical? 25. Which cult ‘children’s’ series often ended with a jack-in-thebox saying “Time for bed”?

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spot the difference answers

16. Which English county’s limitedover cricket team is nicknamed the Outlaws? 17. Kate “Ma” Barker was an American outlaw of the 1920s and 30s. Which Germany-

2

1. Colour of hat 2. Krama missing 3. Eggplant added 4. Colour of basket 5. Extra person in background

Outlaws

4 2

In-laws 11. Who is Jon Voight’s de facto son-in-law? 12. Who is Pippa Middleton’s famous brother-in-law? 13. Patsy Smith was the motherin-law, and daughter-in-law, of which bass player? 14. Marian Robinson is whose live-in mother-in-law? 15. Which 96-year-old actor was nominated for three Academy Awards and has a son and a daughter-in-law who have both won Academy Awards?

5

Blemished Celebrities

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pub quiz answers

1. In what year were the September 11 attacks? 2. What 16-day celebration, held annually in Munich, begins in late September? 3. What sign of the zodiac do those born in the first half of September fall under? 4. The Pulitzer Prize winning The Old Man and the Sea was published in September 1952. Who wrote it? 5. The Treaty of Basel of Sep. 22, 1499, brought about the independence of which modern day country?

Can you spot five differences between the two pictures?

1. 2001 2. Oktoberfest 3. Virgo 4. Earnest Hemmingway 5. Switzerland 6. Ronan Keating 7. Tron 8. Ronin 9. Cronos 10. Ronaldinho 11. Brad Pitt 12. Prince William 13. Bill Wyman 14. Barack Obama 15. Kirk Douglas 16. Nottinghamshire 17. Boney M 18. Jon Bon Jovi 19. Ned Kelly 20. The Bandit Queen 21. Coldplay 22. H. G. Wells 23. One 24. The Rocky Horror Show 25. The Magic Roundabout 26. Tom Cruise 27. Ashton Kutcher 28. Demi Moore 29. Miley Cyrus 30. Charlie Sheen

September

spot the difference




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