AsiaLIFE Vietnam August 2018

AsiaLIFE Media Vol. 125

ROLLERCOASTER LIFE OF EXPATS HI-TECH PROSTHETICS EXPLORING WELSH CULTURE IN CARDIFF

INFORMATION AND COMMUNICATIONS PUBLISHING HOUSE

CAMBODIA // THAILAND // VIETNAM

AUGUST 2018

VOLUME 125

AsiaLIFE Media Vol. 125

AUGUST 2018

ROLLERCOASTER LIFE OF EXPATS HI-TECH PROSTHETICS EXPLORING WELSH CULTURE IN CARDIFF

INFORMATION AND COMMUNICATIONS PUBLISHING HOUSE

for more news and events, features, restaurant reviews and video, visit:

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www.AsiaLIFEmagazine.com For advertising and marketing enquiries please contact: +84 163 5077 530 / +84 903 325 543 or adsales@asialifehcmc.com Director Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialifemagazine.com Editorial Director Barbara Adam barbara.adam@asialifemagazine.com

Art Director Thang Pham L.C. leo@asialifemagazine.com Photo Editor Romain Garrigue rgarrigue.contact@gmail.com

FRONT EVENTS ............................................................... 06 ASIALIFE’S PICKS: BOOKSHOPS IN SAIGON . . .............................................................................. 07 Q&A - Kar una Singh........................................... 10 WHAT’S NEW?................................................... 12 BUSINESS VIEW.................................................. 13 SAIGON PROFILES - Tr an Ngoc Bich............ 14 TRENDING.......................................................... 15

C OV E R STO RY THE WILD SIDE OF HO CHI MINH CITY

Facts and folklore of the city’s wildlife.......... 16

F E AT U R E S

Commercial Director

Editor Peter Cornish peter.cornish@asialifemagazine.com

Nguyen Kim Hanh kimhanh@asialifehcmc.com

Contributors Tristan Ngo Jess Warrem Zoe Osborne

Production Manager Hoa Nguyen nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com

FOOD & DRINK SAKE CENTRAL SAIGON

A taste of Japanese sophistication.................. 3 6

BISTRO SONG VIE AT VILLA SONG

Upmar ket fusion food . . ...................................... 3 7

THE BOATHOUSE

New menu at an old favour ite . . ....................... 3 8

THE SHAMROCK SAIGON

Quintessential Ir ish pub food.. ......................... 3 9

STYLE & DESIGN DOG WHEELCHAIRS

Helping dogs move. . ........................................... 4 0

THE YORKSHIRE BLADE

Yor kshire Style Savour y Ducks........................ 4 2

LOCAL EATS

Bo luc lac.............................................................. 4 3

BREAD & JAM

Spreading social responsibility......................... 2 2

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF SAIGON

A new arrival explores the city ...................... 2 4

GAIA - NATURE CONVERSATION

Building a greener future. . ................................. 2 6

LOVE HATE ROLLERCOASTER OF EXPAT LIFE The psychology of expat happiness................ 2 8 HEALTH & WELLNESS Vulcan Augmetics................................................ 3 0

T R AV E L A BEGINNERS’ GUIDE TO MUI NE

36 Hour s in the popular destination.............. 3 2

TOURISM GUIDE TO CARDIFF

Explor ing the Welsh capital.............................. 3 4 4 AsiaLIFE HCMC

COLUMNS IMBIBE ............................................................................. 4 8 FITNESS .......................................................................... 5 0 EDUCATION HUB .................................................... 5 2 PERSONAL FINANCE ............................................. 5 3 PEOPLE MATTER ....................................................... 5 4 SAIGON PET ............................................................... 5 5 TECHS AND THE CITY .......................................... 5 6 STREET SMART .......................................................... 5 8 HANCOCK IN SE ASIA .......................................... 6 0 COMMUNITY FOCUS ............................................ 6 1 PUB QUIZ ..................................................................... 6 2

EVENTS King, an exhibition of works by Pham Thanh Toan @Craig Thomas Gallery Entry: Free Saigon-based artist Pham Thanh Toan King collection features oil paintings on oversized canvases, including some quadriptychs and pentaptychs. A bold exhibition from such a young artist.

Nui Dinh cycling adventure Join The Bike Shop VN this month for an epic adventure through the Nui Dinh jungle on a dedicated MTB race course. Aimed at intermediate and advanced riders.

Limited spaces and bike rentals available. www.facebook.com/thebikeshopVN.

26 AUG

1 - 10 AUG

6:30am – 1pm

9 AUG

21 AUG

8.30am - 5pm

10.30am - 12pm

Scrapbooking workshop @Co-space Entry: Non-members: VND600,000, Co-Space members: VND500,000 Leadership & Change Conference 2018: Leading In A Vuca World: The New Leadership Competencies @Sheraton Hotel Entry: VND2.5 million A full-day conference for business leaders, executives, directors and managers who are assuming leadership roles in their organisations. Hosted in Vietnam by Human Dynamic and the British Business Group Vietnam.

The first in a series of workshops to help you turn photos and memories into works of art. All materials supplied, just bring photographs and momentos such as tickets and pressed flowers.

bbgv.org/events/leading-in-a-vuca-world-the-newleadership-competencies

www.facebook.com/ events/191140924936607

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Barbara Adam and Jess Warren check out Ho Chi Minh City’s English language book scene. Photos by Romain Garrigue.

ARTBOOK A stylish bookshop that suits its location in the glitzy shopping street of Dong Khoi, Artbook has, as the name suggests, quite a selection of tomes on art, design and architecture.

The range of English-language books features fiction, young adult fiction, including the complete Harry Potter series, reference books, classics, and children’s books, including many Dr Seuss titles.

Artbook is also worth a browse when you’re in the market for souvenirs. As well as books about Vietnam, Vietnamese cooking and the Vietnam War, there’s an extensive selection of cute and quirky knickknacks, including fridge magnets, coasters, and prints of old maps.

There’s also an art gallery upstairs, which seems to keep irregular hours.

43 Dong Khoi, D1 www.facebook.com/artbookhcm

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BOA BOOKSTORE A cute little “hidden” bookshop in a tiny converted apartment on the Turtle Lake roundabout stocked with an interesting and eclectic mix of titles.

You’ll need to negotiate a dingy staircase, following the hand-drawn signs to the bookstore. The whole store is really a room, lined with neat shelving full of English language books. We spied many textbooks, young adult fiction, and recipe books.

The appeal of Boa Bookstore is that they offer to order any book for you, with an upfront deposit.

There’s also a second-hand book section.

Room C26, 2nd floor, 6 Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3 www.facebook.com/BOA.Bookstore.

BOOKWORM CAFE Bookworm cafe is a small eatery and travel agency catering for the Bui Vien/Pham Ngu Lao backpacker crowd, offering budget drinks, meals and a selection of second-hand books.

The books are divided into topics, such as sci fi, fantasy and travel guides, as well as languages. We spotted English, Dutch, French and Danish titles as well as a section reserved for teaching resources.

Bookworm Cafe is a place to stay awhile, with a drink or a meal, while playing board games and choosing a book. If you’re lucky you might spot the resident cat, a stylish and standoffish ginger.

The board games and wifi are free, but a sign says the games aren’t for sale.

The menu focuses on British and Vietnamese dishes, with a wide selection of vegan options.

4 Do Quang Dao, D1 www.facebook.com/KieronBell1973.

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©TAN PHAT

FAHASA

VESTA

The go-to bookstore for Ho Chi Minh City’s English teachers, Fahasa’s flagship store in Nguyen Hue has three levels of books, stationery and toys.

The ground floor is home to Vietnamese text books, English teaching resources and English-language fiction.

Upstairs, there’s an alcove with knickknacks and art supplies, and a cavernous section dedicated to children’s books, school supplies and toys.

The upstairs section stocks English and Vietnamese colouring-in and sticker books (which are great for long plane trips with younger kids), as well as board books and picture books.

If you’re carrying a backpack or satchel, you’ll be required to leave it in the security locker to the left of the main entrance.

This popular store in Thao Dien has just relocated down the road to 33A Thao Dien.The store stocks a variety of new and secondhand books in English, German, French and Vietnamese.

They have a wide selection of books, from cookery and children’s books, to non-fiction and biographies, there seems to be plenty to choose from.

They also stock a wide range of art, beautiful ceramics, soft toys, stationary, board games and handicrafts from Hanoi in the form of tote bags, purses, and accessories.

As well as that mentioned above, Vesta have hosted art exhibitions from a range of artists around Vietnam.

Offering international shipping and local delivery, the friendly staff are willing to go above and beyond to help you find and take home your purchases.

40 Nguyen Hue, D1. www.fahasa.com.

33A Thao Dien, D2. www.facebook.com/Vestabooks.

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Q&A

EARTH DAY NETWORK’S REGIONAL DIRECTOR

10 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Jess Warren interviews Karuna Singh, Earth Day Network’s Regional Director for Asia, and Country Director for India.

Over the eight years you’ve been director for the Earth Day network in Asia, what is the biggest change you have seen?

The biggest change I’ve seen is awareness at grassroot level. Increasingly, people are realising the fact that everyone has a role to play. Originally, people thought that pollution was about factories and only for the government to intervene and control.

Now we are seeing the recognition that it is everyone’s role and that every act counts.

We are seeing a rise in knowledge that is bringing about action.

How do you continue the impact of Earth Day beyond April 22nd to maintain a consciousness and sustained action to environmental issues?

For us, Earth Day is every day. Every day we have ongoing programmes, whether that’s beach clean-ups and competitions, we are doing something every day throughout the year. Whilst I only became the Director for Asia in November 2017, it is important to recognise there is no use in looking after one country. We need to look after the whole region. Recently we had a conclave of students from five countries that border India working together. We need to recognise that the environment knows no political borders.

Air and water are fluid; constantly moving and will not stay within the confines of one country. That is why it is important to join together.

In Vietnam, street food is such a big part of daily life, and with this comes an excessive usage of plastic. Plastic boxes with plastic forks, in a plastic bag with a plastic straw and a plastic cup are given out by local street vendors hundreds of times a day. How do you envision this changing for those where non-plastic alternatives aren’t economically viable for their small business?

At the Earth Day Network, we have interviewed street vendors and it comes down to a question of economics. When I was a child in Calcutta, syrupy sweets were given out in clay pots. Now these pots have become more expensive, and so we are appealing for people to support the potters.

This will reduce the price of clay pots, making them a more economically viable solution once again. We can have awareness of environmental issues, but until alternatives become economically viable, many street vendors lack the choice.

In Calcutta they love to eat, and so we gave a whole presentation about the plastic we use whilst eating; buying fish, street food, coconut water with plastic straws.

When people see the level of plastic they are consuming on a daily basis, it really raises awareness. What we need now is more choice.

How do you see a change in plastic consumption occurring in Vietnam, is it the consumer that leads the way, or the shops and businesses that must set the example?

It comes from both sides. The refuse the straw programme is appealing to large hotels. By not putting straws on the table, people will no longer pick them up automatically. Whereas those that desperately need a straw will ask. Overall, it reduces the number of straws used.

For us, Earth Day is every day Some argue that by giving plastics an economic value upon return, such as returning a used water bottle in exchange for a small sum, may be the way to stop people disregarding them. What do you think of this?

We are trying to make this happen with milk dairies in India. We have written to large dairies to engage in a programme where used pouches can be exchanged for a free pouch of milk. We are waiting on more progress, but we already have one large dairy in Goa doing this. By using bigger dairies to start with, this will make collecting the used pouches easier.

Some say that plastic is not inherently bad, it’s what we do with plastic after it has been used that is the problem. How much do you agree with this statement?

I agree with this, it’s a miracle material; light, scratch resistant, hard wearing. But it’s the management of plastic that is a problem.

The man who made plastic was not an evil genius, he was brilliant and we need plastic, but the problem is we don’t manage the waste properly.

Asides from plastic consumption, what do you think consumers should be doing to help conserve the planet more?

There’s so much, you can compost kitchen waste, new restaurants can source food from within a 100km radius, thus reducing food miles and transportation costs. Government buildings can have terraced gardens for employees to grow produce, supplying them with fresh food.

You can also use big hospitals to grow food on, which can also be very therapeutic for patients. Another idea is car sharing.

We have a programme called ‘Backseat Buddies’ that encourages school children who live in the same building to travel together in a car.

With the rise in ethical and conscious business practices, is it possible to reverse the damage that the human population has caused to the planet?

It depends on the speed with which we act. We are quickly heading toward the tipping point. Unless the human race acts quickly, it will be doomsday. This isn’t about saving the Earth. The Earth will remain, like Mars or Jupiter. But these planets are uninhabitable, and soon the Earth will be too unless we act. This is a question of whether the human species can exist on Earth. This is our biggest concern, because the damage that has been caused is anthropogenic. We have caused this; plastics are only 50-60 years old, we created these. Yet there are rays of hope. Where the ozone layer was once severely damaged, we have settled this. I am hoping we will be able to do this as well.

Mopeds are such a common mode of transport in SE Asia, particularly here in Ho Chi Minh City, how do you see this improving and emissions lowering when so many people are reliant on a cheap and easily accessible mode of transport?

Electric mopeds are the way forward.

India has electric cars; technology is so brilliant. We have such fabulous minds, it’s just a question of applying them. When electric vehicles are given an incentive, such as reductions in tax, it begins to interest people.

As Earth Day fast approaches its 50th Anniversary, how do you see the issue of singleuse plastic being resolved in countries that are so heavily reliant on it?

I see it happening within the next two years. India has banned single-use plastic in schools, and there has been a rise in large fines for those caught using plastic.

We are all in it together and we will do it. At the Earth Day Network, we believe in networking, and so we want to build relationships with organisations in Vietnam in order to take it forward.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 11

OISHI TOWN

BIP BIP MOJITO BAR Calling itself the coolest kid in the Bloq, Bip Bip is a place to chill, work or play board games during the day. At night it’s a nitro mojito bar.

JAPANESE FOOD COURT A selection of Japanese and Korean restaurants and bars in the alley that leads to Family Garden.

Bloq, 19 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 www.facebook.com/bipbipsaigon.

28 Thao Dien, D2 www.facebook.com/oishitownthaodien oishitown.com.

OUTBACK CHILL N GRILL

PYRA AMERICAN BBQ

POLISH RESTAURANT

Promising an authentic American BBQ experience, Outback’s sandbar is lined with sand imported from Cam Ranh.

Ho Chi Minh City’s first Polish restaurant, serving a selection of Polish treats, including zapiekanka and white sausages.

2 Duong so 39 (Lam Van Ben), Phuong Binh Thuan, D7 www.facebook.com/outback.chillngrill www.outbackchillngrill.com.

113/4/16/6 Võ Duy Ninh, Bình Thanh District, www.facebook.com/pyra.saigon.

SAINT HONORE

TAP OUT GOURMET BAKERY

A new outlet for the Thao Dien bakery, preparing a range of cakes, breads and pastries.

Masteri, Tower 5, A01.07 sainthonore.com.vn.

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SMOKED BBQ A new beer garden with a menu that’s heavy on smoked meats and killer sides, best washed down with a craft beer or a quirky cocktail.

170 Cong Quynh www.facebook.com/tapoutvietnam.

BUSINESS VIEW NEWS

IN BRIEF GRAB DRIVER FIRED FOR VERBAL ABUSE

RESTAURANTS EXPLOIT RED-LISTED GIANT CATFISH THE critically endangered giant catfish from the Mekong River is being sold by restaurant owners in Vietnam.

The Mekong catfish are being smuggled across the border from Cambodia stated the expose by the National Geographic.

Reported by Vn Express International, this species of fish has been on the conservation red list since 2008.

Measuring up to three metres and weighing around 300kg, the popularity for the fish comes from the belief among middle-aged men that the meat boosts libido and brings good luck.

Those accused of exploiting protected

species can face fines of USD$88,000 for individuals and USD$200 for businesses, and even 15 years jail time. However this fish is still being listed on restaurant menus across Vietnam.

A waiter from the Hang Duong Quan Restaurant in Saigon was cited by National Geographic explaining that “The owner even has relatives in Cambodia to find and source the fish for him.”

Scientists estimate that the fish’s population has declined by over 90% from the 1980s to the 2000s, with each restaurant purchase endangering the species even more.

A GrabCar driver had his account permanently deactivated following a customer complaint that he verbally abused a young child, and then forced the mother and her crying child out of the car.

The driver has been identified as Vuu Thanh Tung, as reported by Tuoi Tre News. The female passenger reported that he seemed unwilling to drive her and the child to their destination, as booked on the app.

Grab have received a variety of complaints surrounding high fares, poor quality of service and last minute driver cancellations.

RISE IN CONTACTLESS PURCHASING Visa released data last month that demonstrates the rise in consumers using contactless payment options.

In just under a year, contactless transactions grew by 44% per month, with the value of purchases increasing by 43% per month, as reported by Vietnam Economic Times. The most commonly purchased items through contactless have been fashion and beauty products so far.

Vietnamese customers are now able to make quicker and more secure payments in a range of restaurants and supermarkets.

FIRST PACEMAKER SURGERY AT HCM CITY

SOPHIA THE ROBOT ENCOURAGES TECHNOLOGY APPEARING onstage at a conference last month, Sophia the robot delivered a speech encouraging Vietnam to push forward in technological advances.

She suggested that growing technology will boost national productivity, which in turn boosts the economy. Reported by VN Express International, her appearance at the Industry 4.0 summit 2018 Conference, wearing the traditional Vietnamese ao dai (long dress), was well received.

Discussing the 4.0 era, Sophia argued that in order for technology to benefit the Vietnamese people, we must start educating the youthful population, so that nobody gets left behind by technology.

Sophia went on to say startups in Vietnam are already “exciting and dynamic”, and the country is halfway there in its technological advancements into the 4.0 era.

The robot ended her speech by saying thank you in Vietnamese. Sophia was developed by Hanson robotics, based in Hong Kong. With more than 50 facial expressions, she appears to have very humanlike qualities.

Sophia was the first robot to gain citizenship of a country, Saudi Arabia, in 2017. The same year she was named an Innovation Champion by the UN Development Programme, the first nonhuman to receive a title from the UN.

Doctors at HCM City’s District 11 Hospital performed their first pacemaker surgery last month on an 82-year-old woman.

Viet Nam News reports the patient was hospitalised with symptoms of fatigue and shortness of breath. Having previously suffered from heart failure, her heart rate was 44 beats per minute compared to the normal rate of 60 to 100.

The hospital stated the pacemaker was essential for her survival, and her heart rate is now 60 beats per minute.

PROJECT TO MITIGATE CLIMATE CHANGE Nearly 500 plants from five species have been planted in 10,000 hectares of the Dong Nai Biosphere Reserve, report Viet Nam News.

The aim is that these plants will help mitigate climate change, provide a suitable habitat for wildlife such as great hornbills and Asian elephants, and prevent soil erosion.

To monitor the development of these plants, regular surveys will be taken to create a list of plant and animal species, measure vegetation coverage and tree height.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 13

BUN CHA EXPERT

TRAN NGOC BICH Words by Barbara Adam.

Photo by Romain Garrigue.

T

ran Ngoc Bich moved from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City to open a bun cha restaurant.

“It’s easier to live here and do business,” she said. “It’s easier than in the north.”

Bun cha is a Hanoi specialty, regarded with disdain by some southerners. It’s a dish that requires some assembly. Bun cha consists of bun (fresh rice noodles), cha (pork meat patties), barbecued pork and fresh herbs.

The bun is served on its own little plate.

The two types of pork swim in a warm umami sauce with slices of pickled papaya and carrot.

Each diner has access to a basket piled high with perilla, holy basil, Vietnamese balm and shredded rau muong (morning glory), as well as pots of chilli and garlic.

Bich opened her bun cha place the day she arrived in Ho Chi Minh City: August 1, 2005.

She had no family recipe to guide her, or any experience in making bun cha. She insists she just follows a “normal” bun cha recipe, but 14 AsiaLIFE HCMC

I believe there must be a secret to her juicy pork patties. And the nuoc mam sauce, which I drink from the bowl when I think no one’s looking.

Family Favourite

Sang Bun Cha Ha Noi has been our family’s weekend brunch spot for more than four years. We’ve tried other bun cha places in different parts of town, but none are as good as our local, handmade by the ever-smiling Ms Bich.

When we first started going, we sat on tiny plastic chairs and ate at child-sized metal folding tables. When there was a nice breeze, we dined on the footpath, under a shady tree.

Three years ago, Bich renovated, and now Sang Bun Cha Ha Noi is quite swish, with high glass-topped wooden tables and a pristine thatched roof. The food, however, didn’t change. It’s still as good as ever.

Bich’s shop opens every day at 6am. It closes by 2pm at the latest, but Bich usually

sells out well before then, especially on weekends.

When she first opened, Sang Bun Cha Ha Noi was the only eating place in the street. Over the years, more restaurants have opened up nearby. Bun Cha Ha Noi is now sandwiched between a com tam place and a pho joint.

Bich said she didn’t mind the competition because it gives people a range of options, and she’s still the only bun cha place in the area.

Preparations

As selling winds down in the early afternoon, Bich and her staff begin preparing for the next day. They slice papaya and carrot, marinade the sliced pork, prepare the meat ball patties and the nem (spring roll) fillings.

Bich has been using the same suppliers since she opened. The pork - always lean pork - comes from a market stall, and the bun noodles come from a noodle maker in Thu

VIETNAMESE WORKERS ARE BARELY GETTING BY The survey by the Vietnam General Confederation of Labour last month, found that 26% of those surveyed were barely getting by on their salary.

The survey was conducted in 25 cities across Vietnam, and covered 3,000 workers. It states that whilst the average salary base is 4.6million VND, the average minimum spend is 6.5million VND each month.

Compared to last year, the number of those ‘barely getting by’ has increased by 8.5%, with those earning ‘just enough’ decreasing by 7.6%.

As a result, VN Express International reported that 44% of respondents work overtime to earn an extra of around 800,000VND.

MOVING AWAY FROM ELEPHANT RIDING

Duc District. “It’s the best bun in Ho Chi Minh,” she said. “And it’s safe.”

Every night, just before bed, at around 9pm, Bich does a final market run to buy fresh herbs.

She gets up at 5am to prepare the restaurant, making sure she’s ready to serve her first customers at 6am.

On a quiet day, Bich sells about 10 kgs of meat. On a busy day, double that, and she’s usually sold out by 10am.

Looking to the future

After the restaurant closes, Bich has the rest of the afternoon free. She usually naps and takes a yoga class. In the past she used to play badminton, but she recently switched to yoga, which she says she enjoys more.

Over the years, Bich has been approached many times by people who want to open new branches of her restaurant. She always declines their offers, feeling that the only way to ensure quality is to supervise everything herself.

Her plan for the future is to maintain her bun cha business. “I want to try to make it better and better every day,” she said.

Despite her dedication to her restaurant, Bich doesn’t want her 14-year-old daughter to follow in her footsteps. “I want her to have the best education, maybe study overseas, to prepare for a good future,” she said.

8 Duong So 34, Tran Nao, D2.

Wildlife protection organization, Animals Asia is providing US$65,000 to the Yok Don Nation Park in the province of Dak Lak to replace elephant riding with more elephant-friendly tourism.

Tuoi Tre News reported that once the elephant riding has been stopped, the mammals will be able to wander freely around the park, without being constrained by chains to allow tourists to ride them.

The funding, in partnership with the UK’s Olsen Animal Trust, will ensure that within this five-year project, the elephant owners and mahouts will not lose their livelihood, while all activities deemed harmful to the elephants are stopped.

WASTE CAUSES A STINKING COMPLAINT Residents from District 7 in HCMC have called for the environmental problems and terrible smell from the Da Phuoc solid waste treatment complex to be addressed.

Reported by Viet Nam News, the Phu My Hung Development Corporation has petitioned for measures to be taken to prevent the odour.

With 5,000 tonnes of waste a day being dumped here, the deodorizing cannot be done until the waste volume is decreased, say scientists.

The HCM City Institute for Natural Resources and Environment suggests 2,000 tonnes of waste is transported to a facility in the Cu Chi District.

STREET RENAMED TO HONOR MEDICAL CONTRIBUTIONS A street named Alley 86 in HCMC has been renamed after late professor Duong Quang Trung, as reported by Viet Nam News.

The street, in District 10, celebrates the significant contributions Trung made to medicine.

Trung (1929-2013) co-founded the HCM City Heart institute in 1989, and was the director for the city’s Health Department from 1975 to 1990.

Also founder of the Ngoc Thach University of Medicine in District 10, he received the French National Order of Merit for his great contributions to building co-operation in medical services between France and Vietnam.

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16 AsiaLIFE HCMC

AsiaLIFE tracks down some of the wildlife that’s managed to eke out an existence in Ho Chi Minh City’s urban jungle. Words and pictures by Barbara Adam.

W

hen Ho Thi Hoa was a child, parts of what is now Ho Chi Minh City were heavily forested and full of wild animals, including tigers.

Since that time, vast swathes of forest have been urbanised, and now most of the city is a concrete jungle. But wildlife still exists, if you know where to look.

Tiger Tales

Hoa, who was born in 1932, told her children she heard tigers roar in the jungle surrounding her village, a terrifying sound, especially in the pre-dawn dark when she was going to the market. The jungle was between Hoa’s village, now known as Phu Nhuan district, and the airport, and continued all the way to Cu Chi district.

“When someone heard or saw a tiger, they would bang a drum or cooking pots,” Hoa’s daughter Nguyen Minh Hieu said.

“All the villagers would make a big noise. It was for two reasons. First to scare the tiger away, and second to let everyone know there was a tiger around.”

Hoa also told her children a story of a midwife who was carried off by a tiger in the middle of the night. She returned to the village the next day with tiger teeth-marks on her side, scars she carried for the rest of her life.

The midwife, Ba Mu, said the tiger carried her into the jungle to where a second tiger was having a difficult labour. She helped the tiger give birth, and then ran away. Several days later she found the carcass of a wild boar on her doorstep, which she believed to be a thank-you gift from the tigers.

From then on, Ba Mu (midwife) was known as Mu Choi (midwife from god).

Hieu’s mother told her Mu Choi was from her village, even though this story seems to be an urban legend in Southern Vietnam.

British historian Tim Doling said Hoa’s tiger stories are common among older Saigonese, and the creatures continued to kill people until the mid-twentieth century.

“I’ve been told repeatedly by the elders of communal houses all over this area, including at Phu Nhuan, Chi Hoa, Binh Dong, Phong Phu, Thong Tay Hoi communal houses here in Saigon, that the tiger images found on many of the binh phong (decorative room-dividing) screens were there to appease the tiger, who was greatly feared as the lord of the forest,” Tim said.

“Because it was a symbol of power and

strength, the tiger was deified. Its imagery is often found in temples, particularly on shrines associated with Mother Goddess worship. Images of the tiger are also frequently used in conjunction with those of the dragon in depictions of the balance between yin and yang.”

Wildlife Spotter

Wildlife artist Dao Van Hoang was born in Saigon in 1964. He grew up in a later era of Saigon than Hoa, but he has childhood memories of many species of wildlife that have now disappeared.

“I used to net lots of colourful butterflies around Tan Dinh district where we lived in the 70s,” Hoang said. “I guess I contributed to their extinction in the city. We don’t find so many now.”

Hoang, who returned to Ho Chi Minh City in 1996, 17 years after fleeing on a boat, always keeps an eye out for wildlife in the city.

“You don’t see the huge tokay geckos in the city anymore,” he said. “I think they’ve all ended up in rice wine. But you do see little geckos everywhere. There are probably many different species, including the ones who camouflage themselves on the dark bark of Hopea odorata trees.”

Like most Ho Chi Minh City residents, Hoang regularly sees squirrels, bats, birds and lizards. His keen eyes have also spotted some rare insects, including a pair of Atlas moths, as well as frogs, skinks and calotes, a genus of the lizard family. He was thrilled to find some flying tree snakes and some Asian grass lizards near his apartment in Thao Dien in District 2.

The venom of flying tree snakes are only a danger to small prey. But local news outlets regularly report cases of the venomous snake bites in Ho Chi Minh City. One of the quirks of identifying wildlife in Vietnam is that animal names translated into English are not the same as the commonly-used English name for the same species. For example, the venomous snake that’s regularly spotted in the city has the scientific name trimeresurus albolabris and is called ran luc duoi do in Vietnamese, which translates directly as red-tailed viper. However, in English this pretty green snake is known as the white-lipped pit viper. It usually hunts birds, frogs, and small mammals, striking and holding onto the prey until it dies. Bites can be fatal to humans.

Another unusual species regularly seen in AsiaLIFE HCMC 17

18 AsiaLIFE HCMC

How to report wildlife crime to Education for Nature - Vietnam (ENV) Over the Internet

1) Copy the offending web page address 2) Take a screenshot 3) Email the details to env.wcu@gmail.com or use the online form on http://www.envietnam. org/in…/how-you-can-help/report-a-crime Saigon is the colourful Indo-Chinese forest lizard (Calotes mystaceus), a relatively large lizard with a brilliant blue head.

Birds of a Feather

Stuart Palmer is a wild-haired British twitcher who’s lived in Ho Chi Minh City for eight years. He has identified many different species living in the city, including some rare and endangered breeds.

Stuart operates Stu’s Adventure Club, a little outfit that takes people on weekend camping trips to Tri An Lake in Dong Nai province. Stuart has identified 92 species of birds in his camping area. He estimates in the jungle proper there would be more than 130 species.

But back to Ho Chi Minh City, where Stuart has seen streak-eared bulbul, yellowvented bulbul, white-vented myna, spotted doves, zebra doves, pied fantails, plaintive cuckoos, greater coucal, collared kingfisher, white-throated kingfisher, red-breasted parakeets, scarlet minivet and black-naped oriel.

Barn owls (tyto alba) are also often seen in the city at night. Many Vietnamese regard these birds are harbingers of doom, believing that if one lands on your house, it means someone in the household will die.

Quite a few people, including Stuart, have also reported seeing hornbills in Ho Chi Minh City.

Downtown Ho Chi Minh City is where most of the birds live, in the green corridor created by the French town planners that includes the Saigon Zoo, Thong Nhat Park that leads to the lush grounds of the Reunification Palace and Tao Dan Park.

Helping to link these green spaces is the 1.5 hectare “backyard” of the French consulate, where French Consul General Vincent Floreani has spotted civet cats, as well as a variety of birds, lizards and snakes.

According to Tim Doling’s historicvietnam.com website, Ho Chi Minh City’s downtown greenbelt is the legacy of Jean-Baptiste Louis-Pierre, who was hired to assist French army veterinarian Rodolphe Alphonse in setting up Saigon’s botanic gardens (and later the Saigon Zoo) in the 1860s and 70s.

Historic Green Corridor

As director of the Jardin botanique et zoologique, Louis-Pierre “spent much

of his time combing the region’s forests and savannahs, gathering what became one of the largest and richest tropical plant collections ever amassed by a single individual”. (You can read more about Louis-Pierre on the Historic Vietnam website here: www.historicvietnam.com/ jean-baptiste-louis-pierre.)

Many of the large trees in Ho Chi Minh City’s downtown area are also the result of Louis-Pierre’s work.

As is the case all around the world, habitat destruction is the biggest threat to Ho Chi Minh City’s wildlife, including the birds. The Thu Thiem new urban area development, across the river from District 1, hit Ho Chi Minh City’s bird populations hard, Stuart said.

Thu Thiem is intended to replace District 1 as Ho Chi Minh City’s main business hub.

Local news outlets have reported that the Ho Chi Minh City government spent ten years moving 15,000 households out of the 647-hectare Thu Thiem Peninsula to make room for the megaproject.

CBRE Vietnam estimates that the Thu Thiem new urban area, once completed, will have a resident population of 150,000 with a daily working population of 220,000.

Habitat Destruction

Stuart remembers the area before the clearance began as a haven for birdlife.

“There were flocks of egrets and little cormorants, bitterns and bulbuls and kingfishers in that area,” he said. “Now their habitat is gone. They would have tried to move to a new area but the problem with moving is that you have a conflict with the existing bird populations.”

As well as the wildlife that’s surviving in Ho Chi Minh City, there is also, unfortunately, a strong trade in exotic pets and wildlife poached from other parts of Vietnam.

Until December 2015, the nongovernmental organisation Wildlife at Risk (WAR) operated a wildlife rescue centre in Ho Chi Minh City’s Cu Chi district.

For the decade that WAR operated the centre, the organisation rescued and released nearly 7,000 animals, including turtles, otters, monkeys, snakes, pangolins, pygmy lorises and monitor lizards, birds, leopard cats, gibbons and sea turtles, said Le Xuan Lam, manager of WAR’s new Dau AsiaLIFE HCMC 19

20 AsiaLIFE HCMC

How to report wildlife crime to Education for Nature - Vietnam (ENV) Offline

1) Take a picture of the establishment to capture the address on their sign board. If it is a house, capture the address. Google Maps may help here.

2) Take a picture of the animal(s). Take a note of their location on the property. If a street vendor, if possible get a shot of their motorbike and its license plate.

3) Call the ENV wildlife crime hotline on 1800-1522, all our case officers speak English. We will need to know the number of animals involved and the location within the property.

4) Alternatively, email the details to env.wcu@gmail.com or use the online form on http:// www.envietnam.org/in…/how-you-can-help/report-a-crime.

5) If you are happy to do so, please supply your mobile number and email in case our Wildlife Crime Unit need to speak to you directly. *All information supplied to EVN is treated with the strictest confidence.

Tieng wildlife conservation station.

When WAR’s agreement with the Ho Chi Minh City government wasn’t renewed, the organisation had to leave about 200 animals behind. The Cu Chi rescue centre is now run by the Ho Chi Minh City Forest Protection Department.

New Centre

Construction of WAR’s Dau Tien wildlife conservation station in Binh Duong province -- right next door to Ho Chi Minh City’s Thu Duc and Go Vap districts -- is still underway, and is expected to be completed by the start of next year.

The centre already has a number of rescued animals in its care, including some endangered psychedelic rock gecko, turtles, macaques, Burmese ferret-badgers, Burmese pythons, Vietnamese loris and a very rare leopard cat.

“The new research centre will focus on captive breeding of some endangered species,” Lam said as he gave the AsiaLIFE team a tour of the facilities. “We will breed, rehabilitate and release them back into the forest.”

The new centre is much bigger than WAR’s previous premises, with approximately 7000 square metres, and it will have rooms for volunteers who want to assist with the animal rehabilitation work, as well as offices, an examination room and a meeting room. Lam hopes that at some point in the future he’ll be able to buy more land nearby to expand.

On our tour of the facility, we were introduced to pairs of giant Asian pond turtles, elongated tortoises and a yellowheaded temple turtle. We were also shown a spangled (or clouded) monitor lizard, which is on the verge of extinction, a water monitor, a cobra -- not a king cobra, just the normal kind, Lam said in an offhand manner -- and some psychedelic rock geckos that are only found on islands off Cau Mau, Vietnam’s southernmost province.

The primate section does not yet have breeding pairs, just a lone stump-tailed macaque, a single red-faced macaque and a five-month-old black-shanked duoc langur, listed as an endangered species.

All of the animals at the centre were rescued from poachers and illegal wildlife traders, Lam said. In the past, when WAR co-operated with the Ho Chi Minh City Forest Protection Department, they often received exotic pets, which had either escaped, been rescued or released for merit.

Merit Release

The Buddhist practice of releasing animals to generate good merit has some dire ecological consequences because in most cases the animal is first captured from the wild.

About six years ago WAR rescued an endangered Siamese crocodile, which had been bought by a resident of District 7 for a merit release. The previous year, a Ho Chi Minh City monk handed over a king cobra, which had been given to his monastery in another merit release.

WAR’s rescue centre now cooperates with the Forest Protection Department of Binh Duong, so they can no longer accept animals from Ho Chi Minh City. (However, if you just happen to be in the province with a rescued animal, you could give WAR a call.) Rescued wildlife requires quite a bit of paperwork, so the process can be relatively slow. Education for Nature - Vietnam (ENV) has a network of 7,500 volunteers across Vietnam who assist in the reporting and rescue of wildlife. “The message is to leave wildlife in the wild,” said ENV Deputy Director Nguyen Phuong Dung. “Possession of an endangered animal without a permit is a crime. We also hear of people buying wildlife from street vendors to ‘rescue’ it. Doing so is breaking the law and only serves to perpetuate the illegal wildlife trade. The advice is to either contact the authorities or ENV.” AsiaLIFE HCMC 21

22 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Peter Cornish goes on a culinary exploration of a British favourite and finds the social good that is being spread by bread and jam makers across the city. Photo by Jonny Edbrooke.

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here’s something quintessentially British about a slice of bread and jam, perhaps consumed with a cup of tea or covered with a second slice of bread to make a jam sandwich. Deeply ingrained in our national heritage, it invokes memories of yesteryear, a slice of white bread smothered in a layer of strawberry jam at the start of the day, or an afternoon snack when coming home from school.

Our American friends get in on the game with a layer of peanut butter, while our French neighbours start their day with une tartine. Let’s face it, a slice of freshly baked bread smothered in homemade jam is one of life’s simple pleasures enjoyed by many round the world.

Its British origins are said to hark back to the 19th century with the repeal of the Corn Laws, opening up the country to cheap white flour accompanied by freshly baked loaves for the country’s working classes.

Jam was traditionally made once or twice a year until sugar taxes were lifted, bringing mass production of cheap and sweet jams to the urban poor.

The jam sandwich got a boost up the social ladder with the introduction of afternoon tea, trimming the crusts and perhaps replacing an unadventurous strawberry jam with a raspberry or blackcurrant. Now a mainstay for many across the social spectrum, we thought we would have a look at some of the best bread and jam in the city.

La Boulangerie Francaise

Our search brought us to a bakery that’s doing more than just baking delicious bread – they’re providing vulnerable Vietnamese youngsters with the chance of a brighter future by teaching them the fundamentals of the job of a baker.

Baking French inspired breads and pastries in Hue since 1999, La Boulangerie Francaise has recently expanded its operations to Ho Chi Minh City in partnership with Thu Duc College of Technology and the European Institute of Cooperation and Development (IECD), a French non-governmental organization working in the field of social and economic development.

Students welcomed on the training programme come from provinces around Southern Vietnam. All are recruited from disadvantaged backgrounds and go through

an extensive testing process including a motivation interview and entrance exam.

The programme strives for diversity and inclusion with a typical intake having over 60% girls and 20% from ethnic minorities.

The breads they learn to bake are made according to traditional French recipes and include baguettes and sourdough loaves. Most use a natural leaven and slow fermentation process, of around 20 hours, that contribute to an enhanced taste, easier digestion, and better preservation, all of which contribute to delicious breads with a flavour reminiscent of home.

The students’ baking also includes Danish pastries welcome at any breakfast table.

Produced following a recipe process giving that perfect buttery taste and flaky texture.

The croissants and pain au chocolat are made of dough layered with butter, not cut with beef tallow as usually used here, then rolled and folded in succession in a process known as laminating.

Charlie Sellier, Project Manager for the new bakery, explains how the students are taught to see baking as “a natural and social link that can bring people and culture together.” Besides the traditional ‘must haves’ of baking, such as bread and croissants, they also try to bring established French know-how and local flavours together.

This combination of cultural flavours is on show with their signature product, the Mango Turnover, a Vietnamese adaptation of the famous Danish called Chausson aux Pommes. Developed in the first La Boulangerie Francaise in Hue, they have switched the hard-to-find apple with a locally sourced fruit.

The Kalamansi Meringue Tart (adaptation of the Lemon meringue tart), the Chocolate Tart and the Cashew nut / Passion Fruit Tart creations followed exactly the same rationale, by simply adapting the traditional process and recipes to local ingredients. All of them are full of flavour, melting in the mouth and encouraging you to reach for a second.

Le Fruit Artisan Jams

After finding our breads we went in search of something to spread on them and came across another socially oriented producer, Les Vergers Du Mekong (LVDM), managed

by French owner Jean-Luc Volsin, source their fruits from the richest orchards of

Vietnam.

LVDM work closely with farmers in the Lam Dong region of the delta to form farm villages, with an ambassador appointed in each village representing the values of the company and ensuring the farmers are supported through the communication of information essential to their growing and harvesting processes.

Currently working in close cooperation with about 2000 farmers spread over 5000 hectares of the fertile delta, LVDM have developed an app that helps farmers input and share data that can be used to build up a bigger picture of what is happening with every type of fruit in the region. Plagues of pests or disease can spread quickly between farms so providing critical information and assisting with the use of control measures can prevent crop loss.

Priding themselves as a healthy and sustainable brand they produce artisanal jams and British style marmalades that compliment perfectly the bread baked by La Boulangerie Francaise. The jams are simmered in small batches by trained and skillful ‘confituriers’ who cook by sight, scent and taste using traditional copper pans.

Using no artificial ingredients and chopping and preparing the fruit by hand, there is nothing mass production about their jams. With familiar flavours such as strawberry jam and orange marmalade, their portfolio of 12 jams and honey use local fruits to produce flavours such as mango and star fruit, kumquat marmalade, banana and dragon fruit and blossom honey, all of which are a welcome addition to any breakfast table.

As well as jams, LVDM produces a range of juices and, in partnership with French company Folliet, a range of gourmet fair trade and organic certified coffee and looseleaf teas.

A wonderful accompaniment to a slice of bread and jam, the teas are picked and rolled by hand using the most tender buds and leaves producing subtle and light flavours served with milk or lemon.

Whether you’re a coffee or tea person, it’s hard to beat a cuppa with a slice of bread and jam. www.facebook.com/LesVergersDuMekong www.facebook.com/laboulangeriefrancaise. hcmc.

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24 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Jess Warren experiences the buzz and energy as a first time visitor to Ho Chi Minh.

Photo by Romain Garrigue.

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y first impressions of Ho Chi Minh City, looking down from the aeroplane window as I sat aboard an Airbus A330, was the snaking river and streets pulsing with mopeds; a continuous flow of ant-sized machines could be seen across the city.

This is my first time in HCMC, and my first visit to Vietnam. I am not unfamiliar with travelling across Asia, having spent time in India and Thailand before now. Yet, whilst there are similarities, needless to say there are many differences; from language, to culture, food and local customs, I knew I was in for an exciting two months.

My name is Jessica and I’m visiting HCMC as an intern, here at AsiaLIFE for eight weeks. Whilst I travelled here alone, I am one of 12 students from Cardiff University spending the vast majority of summer on an internship placement to suit my future career. The 12 of us are spread between districts 1, 2 and 3, depending on the location of our placements. A decision that will influence our individual experiences of the city.

Having done as much research via YouTube videos on HCMC before my arrival, it became clear to me that the glamorous aerial videography of rice paddies and temples was a well edited version of the city.

As I arrived in Tan Son Nhat International Airport, and stepped out of the departure gates, the wall of hot and humid air hit me. Starkly reminded that for the next two months I will be living in a tropical climate, I jumped in a Grab taxi and made my way to my apartment.

Gazing out of the dusty windows, in awe at the agility of moped drivers who weave between traffic, I felt secure in the back of a car. But it wouldn’t be long until I was riding pillion across the city…

In order to find my feet quickly, the second evening of my stay was spent on a motorbike food tour of the city. Our guides took us to three different street food locations where I sampled pancakes

(banh xeo), a range of seafood including scallops (so diep nuong mo hanh) and a cold noodle salad dish (bun thit nuong). We then finished the evening with dessert of ice cream and fruit.

Each stop for food was accompanied with a Saigon beer, and plenty of discussion with our guides about the ways to eat and enjoy Vietnamese street food. I couldn’t think of a better activity for one of your first evenings in Saigon, as I learnt so much about the city in a short space of time.

And if you’re nervous about travelling by moped, the experienced guides were an easier introduction to this means of travel, compared to jumping straight in with a Grab motorbike.

What struck me within the first few days of arriving is that I could not wipe the smile off my face. Where my expectations were set on a colourful, busy and glamorous way of living in this Southeast Asian city; the former proved more true than the latter.

That is not to say HCMC lacks a luxury feel, as every city has wealthier and poorer areas.

Instead it is to say that glamorous towers can sit alongside run-down shops or pop up construction sites. Travelling between D1, 2 and 3 it is clear to see the dynamic and ever changing city of Saigon in all its glory. With every new experience and sight, I felt incredibly happy to be spending my summer in this beautifully surprising city.

One thing that took some getting used to was the continuous beeping and tooting of car and bike horns on every road. Whilst in the UK, the car horn is reserved for making your frustration known, this is not the case here in HCMC, and in much of SE Asia.

Instead, it serves as a reminder to other road users of your presence, whether that be to the side of someone, or on the road as they begin to pull out of a junction. Whilst much of the group found it surprising to begin with, it now is recognized as an essential part of navigating the roads safely.

But with every chaotic and exciting trip, downtime is needed too. It became apparent to me that there is a huge choice of bars,

lounges, coffee shops and restaurants on offer in D2, and with the majority having a relaxed, air conditioned environment it provides a fantastic escape from the daily heat, (or rain). Rain is certainly something I am used to in the UK, but when it rains here, it pours. The sky opens for a few minutes and after one short downpour, I’ve witnessed streets quickly flooding. I’ve been caught out with this one, expecting a light drizzle to blow through, I can assure you that light drizzle will turn into a heavy downpour within a matter of minutes. I have no doubt I shall witness plenty more of this, having arrived just in time for rainy season.

For the other interns staying in D3 and D1, their experiences of the city differ from my relaxed setting of Thao Dien. Those residing in D1 are located just next to Le Van Tam Park, and those in D3 are incredibly near to the Independence Palace.

Having been here for five days now, eating well was something playing on my mind, yet the variety of cuisine available at my doorstop still amazes me. Wherever I have visited for lunch and dinner so far has had an impeccable array of choice, all cooked to perfection. In Vietnam, the ideal dish has a balance of spice, sour, bitter, salt and sweet, with each element corresponding to a part of the body.

Vietnamese food has a strong French influence, and I have grown to love the banh mi; a French style baguette filled with fresh vegetables and meat. The perfect balance of every flavour on offer. Combined with a strong coffee, often served with condensed milk, it is easy to see how Vietnam has become popular for its delicious variety in food.

With one of eight weeks completed here, it’s safe to say Saigon has surpassed my expectation in many ways. The dynamic aspect to the city is keeping me on my toes, and retreating to my apartment in leafy district two is providing the essential relaxation to keep up with the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City.

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26 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Peter Cornish connects with Gaia Nature Conservation to look at how they are empowering people to build a future where they can live in harmony with their natural environment.

Photo by Barbara Adam.

A

t Gaia Nature Conservation they have a vision, one where the people of Vietnam value the beauty and rich diversity of their natural environment, living in harmony with the nature that surrounds them. Working closely with local communities, Gaia brings empowerment, experience and new initiatives to stop the degradation of Vietnam’s vibrant biodiversity.

Through education, research and innovative solutions to conservation issues, Gaia is ensuring natural resources are used sustainably so they continue to benefit future generations.

Thanks to the determination of a group of Vietnamese biologists and environmentalists, Gaia was established in 2016 by the Vietnam Union of Sciences and Technologies.

The leading force behind Gaia’s founding was Huyen Thi Thanh Do who, with over 17 years of environmental experience with organisations such as the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) and Wildlife At Risk (WAR), has dedicated her life to conservation and the protection of Vietnam’s nature.

As both Founder and Executive Director of Gaia, Huyen’s passion for nature started as a young child. She graduated with a Master’s degree from Hanoi National University’s Faculty of the Environment in 2000, before embarking on a career in management for international and local NGOs. Currently President of the Vietnam Environmental Education Network (VEEN) she has developed a keen interest in nature-based education and communications.

“I find myself so fortunate every day for the last 17 years does not feel like work, this is my passion and I feel grateful that I can spend each of my working days happy and believing that I am doing the right thing for our country’s beautiful nature,” Huyen said.

Nature Education

Building on Huyen’s commitment to education, Gaia has developed a Nature Education programme, designed to raise awareness of how people can live in harmony with nature as well as fostering and developing the skills and behavioural changes needed to achieve this.

Targeting different stakeholders, including students, teachers, community leaders and employees working in areas of natural interest, Gaia is at the forefront of environmental education in Vietnam.

Working with government officials and local leaders, Gaia helps develop and implement education strategies in national parks and protected areas throughout the country.

They also publish materials distributed in local communities that encourage people to reconsider how they interact with nature and wildlife and lead towards conservation and protection.

At the heart of their educational programme is the development of an official curriculum on biodiversity for school and university students. Supporting this, Gaia runs regular field trips and nature camps for students, teachers, tourists and families, providing the opportunity to witness

how conservation programmes are implemented in real life.

Operating in a non-profit capacity, the trips offer students a first-hand taste of how nature protection is implemented that would not normally be available to many of them, nor in ordinary school field outings. The trips are currently run from Ho Chi Minh City, with Can Gio, Dong Nai and Vung Tau as the three locations students can visit, and are designed to inspire personal action in nature conservation from the students.

Capacity Building

In addition to the educational programmes Gaia designs and implements, much of their work is with environmental conservationists working to secure and protect the country’s natural resource. Gaia’s capacity building programme is designed to maximise the effectiveness of their conservation work, providing essential hands-on training for existing and future conservationists.

As well as conducting ongoing research to monitor the environment in which conservationists operate, Gaia applies advanced technologies in biodiversity research, such as camera traps, GPS and Map Info, to provide up-to-date data for natural resource management. Using the data compiled from their research, they are able to produce content for their education programmes as well as advise on policy and direct action.

Monitoring different species in their natural environment enables Gaia to assist with the design and implementation of conservation initiatives to protect species in their natural habitats. The data is also used to develop their communication strategies, in particular the use of photos which guides the effective use of natural colour in their news and reports, as well as co-ordinating their media and social network communications.

Working With the Community

Critical to the ongoing success of Gaia’s work is building close relationships with the communities they work in, helping locals to understand the importance of their work and encouraging the supported implementation of their community-based natural resource management strategies.

Using Participatory Rural Appraisal (PRA) tools such as seasonal calendars, village transect maps, observation-based community improvement methods, semi-structured surveys on knowledge and natural resource decision use, Gaia have developed a programme that empowers local people to be part of their conservation process.

Recognising that a ‘one-size-fits-all’ approach is not implementable in the communities they work with, the solutions they offer combine the changing of behavioural attitudes while working to improve the livelihoods of local communities and remove barriers, political and economic, that might prevent them from achieving their end goals. https://www.facebook.com/gaiavn.org http://www.gaiavn.org.

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Zoe Osborne delves into expat life in Ho Chi Minh City in a bid to uncover the secret to expat happiness. Photos by Romain Garrigue.

28 AsiaLIFE HCMC

T

here are many reasons people choose to relocate to another country. Some leave for work, for family or for love, and many of us are simply drawn to the thrill of a brand new adventure. But most have no idea what life is really like in the expat community until they find themselves amongst it, embracing the hilarity and rolling with the punches.

This is particularly true of life in Vietnam - no matter what you thought you’d find, the reality of living in this wonderful, crazy place will be another thing all together. There are challenges that everyone shares, local and expat alike. In InterNations’ 2017 Quality of Life Index, Vietnam did not rate for leisure options, travel and transport, health and safety, and if you’d lived here long enough you may understand why.

But Vietnam was 9th on the list for personal happiness. No matter how hard we may find it to adjust to such a different way of life and the limits of a developing economy, this country is an amazing place.

Love

Young mother and music-lover, Lucy Howson, moved to Saigon on impulse over five years ago. For her, relocating was an adventure and an opportunity to break free from what had become a depressing, hard life in the UK. “I came on a one way ticket after meeting a Viet Kieu couple while travelling in Europe,” she says. “I’d been living in London for a time… [and] I was pretty done with the crappy weather and cold, hard faces of the people on the underground.”

Years later and Lucy is still here, now happily married with a bubbly daughter and on the brink of an exciting career move. She is struck by how much she has changed.

“I always tell people that I did my actual growing up in Saigon,” she says. “ I feel more at home here [now] than I ever did in the land where I was born.”

According to Saigon-based Clinical Psychologist, Dr Astrid Matarrita-Chichilla, this is not uncommon among the expat community.

Being an expat offers a unique opportunity to remove yourself from the people and situations that influence you back home, and really embrace personal growth. ”Back home”, there is a social tendency to preserve and keep intact the status quo of things. That is why everytime you go home nothing changes,” she explains.

A huge part of this lies in the interesting new people and experiences you are exposed to when you live as an expat. Most expats in Vietnam are lucky in the lifestyle they are able to afford. The cost of living in Vietnam is estimated to be nearly 60% cheaper than living in Australia and the UK, and 55% cheaper than living in America, and it is not difficult to find highly paid work here as an expat.

Another long-term HCMC-expat, Shannon Brown, came to the country in late 2014 on the advice of a friend, drawn to the promise of “coconuts and mangos every day”. She stayed for just over three years, hooked on the vibrancy of life in her new city and the opportunities it offered.

“I was quite fortunate… in Vietnam,” she says. “I was able to afford a motorbike, consistent yoga, rock climbing and massage... and I was blessed with a huge group of friends.

People who were from so many places around

the world, speaking so many languages, doing so many creative things.”

“I ended up staying because there were just so many opportunities to teach and to train and to write,” she continues. “I wouldn’t have been able to do [this] in a more expensive economy.”

Vietnam’s many work and entrepreneurial opportunities have also been key for Singaporean expat Kyaw Tay Zar, who came to the country seven and a half years ago on a quick trip and ended up extending it indefinitely.

“I wanted to get back into startup scene and Vietnam is the perfect place for it. So I decided to go ahead and quit my job, and moved here,” he says. “While running your own firm is way harder than working for someone, it’s something I immensely enjoy. I realised during my [trip] in Vietnam that I wasn’t having a burnout because of workload, but because I hated working a corporate job.”

After years of entrepreneurship, consultancy and freelancing, Kyaw is now considering his next move as a part of Ho Chi Minh City’s exciting, dynamic business sector. According to him, this city is becoming a bit of a “melting pot” for the region’s startup scene.

In fact, Vietnam as a whole is becoming a well-known hotspot for startups and corporate giants alike, favoured for its cheap labour and tech-savvy workforce. South Korea’s Samsung Electronics Co Ltd moved its factories from China to Vietnam in 2013 and has just pledged to further increase its investment in the country.

Hate

But while there are many undeniable positives to living in Saigon there are also plenty of challenges. Perhaps the biggest of these is isolation. Everything is transient in the expat world - friends come and go, jobs are shortterm, and it can also be difficult to make friends in the first place.

“Even the most independent person can start to feel the need for more meaningful contact,” says Dr Astrid. “This is a city with a very active out and about scene, a lot of networking. But.... you can know hundreds of people without feeling connected to any of them.”

On the flipside, if you come with family or a fixed bubble of friends, it can be very easy to stick to that bubble.

“You end up relying too much on them, isolating your family in a bubble basically and this can lead to conflict fairly quick,” Dr Astrid explains.

Without a rich support network in their new home, expats can find it difficult to work through issues that they could otherwise turn to friends or family for help with. Some of the most common issues that Dr Astrid sees in her practise are anxiety, depression and affair recovery. According to her, these issues are exacerbated in the expat world because treatment and support is far harder to access.

“When people live in their own country, they usually have more access to a solid stable support network. This allows people to cope with their issues by reaching out to family and close friends constantly,” she explains. “As an expat, your support network is reduced significantly and loneliness or isolation is like pouring gasoline on the fire.”

For Lucy, the greatest challenge in her expat life so far has been going through pregnancy in a city where there are few mum and baby groups, or other emotional support networks

for young mothers. “[But] I’m lucky that I have had good friends who have supported me when I needed them, even if a few of those have been distant or just online,” she says. “[My husband] Liem has helped me through most of my challenges.”

Emotional support networks or facilities in general are not common in Ho Chi Minh City. Shannon used to run one of the city’s few depression and anxiety support groups, which will be returning later this year.

“There are problems that come along with being so far away from home and not knowing the law and not having a group of people on your side,” she says.

But mental health aside, many expats simply find themselves becoming disenchanted with their new life. Over time it can be easy to forget the things you once loved about Vietnam and get stuck on the negatives.

“One common thing I see for expats from the Western Hemisphere is that they can’t easily find clothes and shoes that fit… another thing is for pet lovers. Vietnam isn’t exactly pet friendly,” says Kyaw.

“Feeling constantly under strain to communicate [is common],” Shannon adds. “[And] getting frustrated when values and norms don’t match up, especially when it comes to health and safety and definitely losing friends along the way, having people move is kind of a constant part of your life.”

Shannon found that the key to staying positive was to remember why she fell in love with Vietnam in the first place. For Lucy, it’s the human connection she finds in Vietnam.

“The sunsets, smiles and humble gestures experienced daily here compared to the cold, grey, societally disconnected realities of home really help my attitude remain positive,” she says.

But for Kyaw, staying positive is a choice.

You can choose to be happy wherever you are, it’s all about how you view the world around you.

“Learn to acknowledge, embrace and accept differences in cultures, traditions and ways of life. The world is a diverse place,” he says.

“And don’t keep yourself to a bubble. You’re an average of the five people you spend most time with [so] cut toxic, whiny, close-minded people out of your life.”

In fact having worked with expats for a number of years, Dr Astrid suggests that the issue is almost completely internal. She suggests five things that expats can do to keep a positive frame of mind: 1. Become aware of what your issues are and come up with an action plan for them.

2. Eat clean, exercise frequently. People underestimate the importance of a healthy body.

3. Put real effort into making real friends and cultivating positive relationships.

4. Accept the things you can’t control and focus on what you CAN control and change.

5. Set yourself an intention for your time here - give your life here some purpose.

No matter why you came to Vietnam or what challenges you face as an expat living in this country, the fact remains that you are here. Vietnam is a fascinating place with a rich culture, incredible freedom and friendly, generous people, and if you choose to enjoy it, you will!

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HEALTH & WELLNESS

30 AsiaLIFE HCMC

AsiaLIFE explores the click and go approach to giving people new limbs, using well-designed and cost effective prosthetics.

Words by Peter Cornish.

C

EO and founder of Vulcan Augmetics, Rafael Masters, experienced the challenges faced by physically disabled people early on in life. Growing up in the south of England next to a school for the disabled, and then taking the role of carer for a disabled friend at university, he had witnessed first-hand the struggles they confronted in their daily life.

Rafael came to Vietnam to work in educational management, a role that brought him in close contact with special needs students, some of whom had physical disabilities including missing limbs. With a long held love of design and mechanics, Rafael had been working on an idea that would enable amputees to design and build their own prosthetics and was building the capital needed to launch a company.

A chance meeting with Akshay Sharma, CEO of real estate company Hoozing, brought forward the plan and saw the launch of Vulcan Augmetics in 2017.

Working closely with Ho Chi Minh City based venture builders, Alley 51, the company has been building and prototyping augmented prosthetic arms for the last year at their design studios in Phu Nhuan and Binh Duong.

If you look at the prosthetics market currently, the majority of limbs are designed to copy the real thing, but functionality is often lacking, Rafael explained. The human hand is amazing and you can’t copy it affordably, and for the developing market such as Vietnam the costs are prohibitive. The process is labour intensive, adding to the cost, and there is often no guarantee of support once you have the limb.

And this is where the Vulcan Augmetics approach gets interesting. Recognising there is little money to be made selling expensive prosthetics to poor people in developing countries, why not offer a basic, low cost model that can be upgraded later?

And recognising that a new prosthetic can increase amputees’ employment opportunities; why not create a limb that enhances job prospects by being designed for a specific role?

In the United States, the average amputee faces costs of up to USD$1.4 million throughout their life. Compare

this to an entry level Vulcan Augmetics cost of USD$450 and the difference is life changing. Getting in to the game with a low cost affordable new limb, amputees have the opportunity to increase their income through wider job prospects. They can then buy upgrades when they can afford it.

Designing a business ecosystem that makes money by helping users to improve their lives, Vulcan Augmetics are building a space where it makes economic sense to provide the first prosthetic for free. Now priming the pump for first generation funding, they are working to get their designs into the labour market, proving that amputees can earn money and be valuable members of society.

Their goal is to show that their prosthetics are not just a second level imitation, but can be designed so that the wearer can do a better job than those with real limbs, removing the stigma attached to the disabled and enabling them to function at an enhanced level. “It’s about being better, we can make them superior.

Amputees can lead the way,” Rafael explained.

What Are The Products?

So, aside from a socially oriented business model, what makes Vulcan Augmetics prosthetic limbs a game changer? The answer is a unique, modular design that clicks together like Lego, with components that can be interchanged and upgraded depending on user requirements. Although there are elements that are ‘one size fits all’ a complete, operational limb is customisable.

Their launch product is an arm comprising six components – fingers, palm, wrist, forearm, socket and brace - designed from elbow and below. The mechanics of the prosthetic arm are complex, but the user is not as reliant on it as a leg. If a prosthetic arm brakes, the impact on the amputee’s life is not the same as with a broken leg.

To receive a prosthetic limb the product must be carefully fitted to the amputee’s stump which requires scanning and individual moulding, a process that requires skill and time and is difficult to do at low cost. Vulcan Augmetics takes a 3D scan of the stump and uses two plates

to ensure a perfect fit to the arm. These are the only individual custom designed components and all other parts are standardised to click in place.

With the remaining standardised parts installed with a simple click and turn, any breakages or upgrades can be ordered quickly and cheaply online, rather than having to wait for a complete new limb to be manufactured, delivered and fitted. If a finger brakes there is no need to replace the whole hand, just click and go.

As the limbs’ components are designed for specific work-related tasks, the wearer can change them depending on task requirements. This is about user convenience. Just click-on the parts you need for a specific job and in many instances, you can perform better than an able-bodied person, Rafael explained. All the connectors are standardised so there’s no fuss or drama.

The first prosthetics are being designed for simple, manual jobs, such as waiters or car park ticket attendants, that will enable under-educated amputees to enter the labour market. Once they have increased their earning ability they can buy upgrades that will enable them to do more skilled jobs. Future upgrades include a computer mouse that can be used by people without hands by placing it in the palm of a prosthetic.

What Does The Future Hold?

Working with fab labs and open-source design, Vulcan Augmetics plans to scale rapidly and distribute globally. They are also working with businesses to fund the entry level limbs as part of their corporate social responsibility and provide internships for those who receive the limbs.

Working with strategic corporate partners to identify job requirements they then recruit amputees and build models for the specific jobs.

They hope that every arm given for free will eventually be passed on once the recipient has upgraded. Each arm has a plaque with the previous recipient’s name on it, allowing them to pay forward what they themselves have received. It’s initiatives like Vulcan Augmetics that are changing the work space by using business practices to address and solve social issues. www.Wearevulcan.com.

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M

ui Ne is a popular destination for a quick, weekend getaway for the population in and around Ho Chi Minh City. I had been told about the area of Mui Ne ever since I arrived in Saigon, and with a weekend to spare, decided to hit the coastal location with a few friends, and tick off the ‘must-do’ activities.

Traveling northeast to Mui Ne there are many options. Train, taxi, bus and car are all viable modes of transport, but we decided to travel by sleeper bus. Wanting to experience the two-tiered beds, and amusement of clambering up to the top bunk, it seemed like a fun way to reach the destination.

Setting off at 8am and arriving at 12pm, the four-hour journey sped past, with a quick pit stop for snacks and the bathroom mid-way through, we were very much on our way.

After arriving and checking into our guesthouse, we grabbed our cameras and hurried to a nearby shop to buy waterproof ponchos. Whilst you can plan a trip away, you definitely can’t plan the weather ... as 32 AsiaLIFE HCMC

we discovered.

Picked up by a bright green jeep, we sped down the road to our first stop; the Fairy Stream. The stream is a slowly meandering creek, coloured by the red and orange clay and limestone particles that make up the surrounding rock formations.

As the stream winds through the sand dunes of Rom Island, weaving its way between coconut trees, bamboo forests and the occasional boulder, it provides the most picturesque views, likened to parts of the Grand Canyon by some. We walked through the soft, sandy creek-bed, whilst sipping on fresh coconut water from one of the stalls that lines the stream. Heading back to the jeep, we were curious as to what the next stop would hold.

Whilst originally planning to head to the popular fishing village next, we were warned that the heavy storm would have made the location rather wet and it would have an incredibly pungent fish smell.

Scrapped from the afternoon itinerary, the fishing village is best visited in the morning, when you can watch as the local fishermen arrive, and haul in their catches

of shellfish and fresh fish from the early morning.

Heading to the white sand dunes next, we arrived to see the most spectacular rolling hills of sand, held together by the occasional shrub. If you want to head to the top of the sand dunes, you can hire a quad bike to take you up. With experienced drivers, you can either hop on the back of one, or drive your own, with a guide sat behind you to direct your steering, and help you up the large slopes.

We opted for the latter, and jumped into the driver’s seat of a hot and snarling quad bike. Speeding along the dunes, and reaching the top for some spectacular views, we took hundreds of photos, including the must-have photo running down a dune.

Driving to our next location in our trusty jeep, we arrived at the red sand dunes just in time for sunset. The red dunes, a similar colour to the red rock of the Fairy Stream overlook the sea and surrounding hills.

As we arrived, we were offered what seemed to be a long, thin sheet of linoleum

Jess Warren visits the popular getaway location for 36 hours. flooring. With a fabric handle at one end, these bendy pieces of plastic were being used as sledges to sit on and speed down the dunes. Copying the technique from the children and families nearby, it took only minutes to master the quick push-off at the top, which would send you skidding down the slopes with ease.

Covered in red sand from where we had fallen off, and the wind whipping our hair, the day of activities had left our bodies tired but our faces grinning from ear to ear.

After reaching the guesthouse just before the heavens opened, we had time for a quick and much-needed shower before dinner.

Walking along Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street, we stumbled across the colourful restaurant of El Latino. This Mexicaninspired restaurant caught our eye, not only for the sombreros on each setting, but the happy hour sign advertising cocktails for VND35,000.

We sat down to enjoy a variety of fajitas, enchiladas, burritos and tacos, accompanied with pineapple rum cocktails and passionfruit mojitos. After asking

around for recommendations for which bar to visit next, we were pointed in the direction of Dragon Beach Bar and Lounge.

Located further down the same street, we arrived and found ourselves a selection of sofas to sit on that overlooked the sea.

Becoming increasingly busier as the night progressed, it was clear this bar targets the weekend visitors and backpackers. Staying open until 4am each night, we enjoyed the loud music and a wide range of drinks on offer in this popular nightlife location.

Heading home in taxis, we collapsed into bed after a long and busy day of sightseeing.

After waking up and realizing our beach plans had to be cancelled due to the heavy storm that had set in for the day, we sought out other alternatives. Walking down the road, we stumbled upon Joe’s Café Seaside Boutique. With table football, a pool table, large comfortable sofas and a large menu of food and drinks, we had found our haven from the storm. Stocking Bobby Brewers Coffees, Pasteur Street Craft Beer, and over 60 wines by the bottle, this location has previously been voted

‘favorite international restaurant’ by the Lonely Planet.

Settling down into the soft sofas, I ordered a quattro formaggi pizza, which had a delicious flatbread base, and was oozing with rich cheese. We set up a small pool tournament among our group, where I managed to shoot some billiard balls into pockets, but missed even more, which of course I am putting down to the stickiness of my hands in the Mui Ne heat. After a couple of hours fooling around with the games, it was time to catch the sleeper bus home.

Piling onto the bus after securing our rucksacks into the hold at the bottom, we clambered up onto our bed-like seats, and tucked ourselves up in a blanket for the evening journey back to Saigon.

After drifting off to sleep in the bus, we arrived back in the city at 10:30pm, and caught a grab car back home. Having spent around 36 hours in the popular getaway location of Mui Ne, we had managed to visit the popular sites, and enjoy the nightlife in a whirlwind escape from the city.

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he city of Cardiff is a location teeming with life and overflowing with things to see and do. A relatively compact city when compared to London, but the capital of Wales never disappoints. Whether you’re visiting for a long weekend, or a week’s holiday, the vast swathes of Welsh culture will immerse you from the beginning to the end.

Whilst Wales is known for rain, it also provides outstanding sunshine, with warm coastal weather. Taking time to enjoy the sun, you can visit two of Cardiff’s most beautiful parks. Bute Park and Arboretum is located in the centre of the city next to Cardiff Castle and the River Taff, and is equivalent in size to 75 football pitches.

Being one of the largest urban parks in Wales, you can enjoy lazing beside the river or hiring one of the available 500 nextbikes from 50 docking stations around the city.

If you travel slightly further out of the centre of the city to the district of Roath, you’ll stumble across the beautifully manicured gardens of Roath Park. Complete with a boating lake where you can hire pedalows and rowing boats, as well as a botanic garden, recreational ground and tennis courts, Roath Park provides a relaxed environment to enjoy a lazy afternoon in the sun.

Heading further towards the sea, Cardiff Bay is a must-see during your visit.

Previously the hub of the world’s coal industry, the Bay has now been developed into a freshwater lake for sailing and watersports. Mermaid Quay is also located

Jess Warren gives us the low down on Wales’s capital city, Cardiff.

34 AsiaLIFE HCMC

here, which has heaps of bars, restaurants and cafes for all budgets and appetites.

Walking down from Cardiff Bay is the Barrage, completed in 2001; the kilometrelong dam provides a brilliant walk with spectacular views. The perfect walk to burn off a delicious lunch in Mermaid Quay.

With the sunshine often comes rain, so if you’re looking for somewhere to hide from the drizzle, Cardiff has plenty of beautifully intricate Victorian and Edwardian shopping arcades. Filled with quirky designer shops, vintage clothing stores, cafes, art shops and sophisticated bars, the arcades are an unmissable location. Home to the elegant Barker Tea House, where you can enjoy afternoon tea in the High Street arcade, or if you’re feeling like a harder drink, Gin and Juice is a classy and eclectic cocktail bar located in Castle Arcade.

Feeling refreshed from a cake or cocktail, Cardiff Central Market is worth adding to the list of places to visit. Located minutes from the arcades, the market is an impressive, glass roofed, Victorian structure.

Home to Kelly’s Records, which was founded in 1969 and boasts an extensive collection of collectable vinyl, you’re sure to find the next addition to your collection with a spot of crate digging.

If you haven’t already found the perfect dinner spot, then these two recommendations will be worth a visit.

Chapel 1877 is one of the most luxurious, fine dining experiences in Cardiff. Set in a stunningly restored, grade 2 listed building with three floors, this authentic Welsh restaurant holds an A La Carte Menu in the

upstairs restaurant, and a Gastro Bar on the ground floor. Suitable for a splash-out meal of luxury, or the perfect Welsh Sunday lunch, Chapel 1877 does not disappoint.

An entirely opposite style of dining can be found at Chai Street restaurant. This exciting location for Indian street food in a relaxed environment is arguably one of the best curries in Cardiff. Our recommendation would be the Classic Thali; a dish that combines six different flavours of sweet, salt, bitter, sour, astringent and spicy in one single plate served on a metal tray as per Indian food customs. This budget friendly location is perfect for a relaxed dinner among friends, and you’ll even find a Tiger Beer on the menu.

When visiting the capital of Wales, it would be hard to ignore the sporting history that the city holds. With a deep-rooted tradition of Welsh Rugby, depending on the time of year you visit the city, getting last minute tickets to a match is possible. With the Autumn Internationals in the month of November, Wales will play against Scotland, Australia, Tonga and South Africa in the Principality Stadium this year.

Straying from rugby to ice hockey, and the Cardiff Devils are an elite team who play out of the Ice Arena Wales facility in the heart of Cardiff Bay. These fast-paced and roaring games are easy to get lastminute tickets for, and are perfect for the whole family with fun, on-ice games in the intermission, as well as the must-have hotdog among crowd chants.

Looking for your cultural fill, the National Museum is a brilliant stop off. Home to

some very famous paintings including Water Lilies by Monet, as well as a range of modern art, there’s plenty to see. After touring the upstairs galleries, downstairs is a natural history section, with a variety of dinosaur and mammal displays paired with interesting information.

If history piques your interest more, then Cardiff Castle is home to over 2000 years of Welsh history. The Castle is at once a Norman Castle, Roman fort and an exquisite Victorian Gothic fantasy palace. Steeped in history, there is plenty to see and explore within the castle grounds.

Nightlife in Cardiff is something to behold. Womanby Street is a hubbub of independent music venues, buzzing with colour and life. As one of the oldest streets in the city, it has recently been part of the ‘Save Womanby Street’ campaign, in order to protect and conserve the brilliant live music scene and wealth of independent venues. This cultural hub provides a home for the live music community in Cardiff.

Our recommendation would be to visit Clwb Ifor Bach, nicknamed ‘welsh club’ for a unique and impressive nightclub. Whilst Cardiff houses many popular chain clubs, stepping off the beaten track will ensure a memorable night.

Whether you’re visiting Cardiff with friends, family, or exploring on your own, there is plenty to do and see. A location brimming with culture, music, sport, phenomenal restaurants and bars, and scenic locations, this compact capital city has everything and more.

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8

CITY DRINKS

Sake Central Saigon 59 Dong Du, D1 www.facebook.com/sakecentralsaigon.

Barbara Adam test drives the first of three Japanese-inspired outlets set up by the dynamic international team at the Eight Four Collective. Photos by Romain Garrigue.

A dark labyrinthian staircase leads you from downtown Ho Chi Minh to the stylish and dimly-lit cocoon that is Sake Central Saigon.

With only 24 seats, Sake Central is intimate, yet interactive. Unlike other upscale establishments, where you’re seated far from other people to ensure privacy, here guests sit at a long communal table, designed to generate conversations between the bartenders and other guests.

Sake Central has 30 types of sake available, and a visit to this microcosm of Japanese elegance is as educational as it is fun -- and delicious -- as you learn about sake and build your taste memory.

(If you’re a strident anti-sakite, Sake Central has its own bespoke craft beer, the Czech-style Renkon Pilsner, brewed at Heart of Darkness Brewery.)

The bar channels Japanese culture and attention-to-detail with contemporary flair to create a refined haven of sake and otsumami (food that’s eaten while drinking).

“Everything on our food menu is meant to pair well with sake,” said Sake Central General Manager Jesse Selvagn, a certified Sake Sommelier. “It gives everyone a wide variety of eating stages.”

Each type of sake is available by the glass, by 180ml tokkuri (miniature carafes) or 720ml bottle. The AsiaLIFE team started our sake journey with Sakurago Tokubetsu Junmai (VND210,000/ glass), a soft fruity style of sake that we paired with a trio of pickles, comprising kimchi, baby jade radish and shiso cucumber 36 AsiaLIFE HCMC

(VND200,000).

We slurped down some fresh oysters (VND40,000 each), enjoying how the brininess of the shellfish was complemented beautifully by the zesty flavour of the sake.

We moved on to a full-bodied and nutty Narutotai Ginjo Nama Genshu, an unpasteurised sake from Shikoku island. As per recommendation, we paired this with the famous, but not very photogenic katsu sando (VND220,000), an incredibly delicious combination of Japanese milk bread, breaded pork, cabbage and a tangy bulldog sauce.

“This sake has a really rich body to it, with hints of ripe banana, red fruit and a powerful finish,” Jesse said.

To round off our tasting experience, we sampled the dish simply called “tomato” on the menu (VND210,000), a tasty and beautifully-presented salad of Dalat cherry tomatoes, black garlic, tofu and fried milk bread croutons.

Instead of dessert, we ordered “cheese” (VND270,000). The type of cheese served changes regularly, and the price includes a glass of pre-selected sake. We tried camembert, paired with Nanbu Bijin Tokubetsu Junmai sake from Iwate.

The Eight Four Collective has two more outlets in their high-end Japanese-inspired ecosystem opening soon - Renkon, a modern izakaya-style bar and restaurant which opened early July and Irusu a lounge/bar, which will open at the end of the year.

BISTRO SONG VIE AT VILLA SONG 197/2 Nguyen Von Huong, Thao Dien, District 2, HCMC https://www.facebook.com/Bistro-SongVie-Villasong-SaiGon-1689048441329161/

Barbara Adam discovers a feast for the senses in the back reaches of Thao Dien.

Photos by Romain Garrigue.

Singaporean chef Chris Fong has burst onto Ho Chi Minh City’s food scene with a stunning new fusion menu that delights the eyes as much as the tastebuds.

The menu is inspired by dishes Chris has encountered in his new home of Vietnam, as well as from around the world, and each dish is a masterpiece of plating and flavours.

Chris learned his craft at Michelin-starred restaurants in Singapore, then started his own restaurant, Horizon, which ended up with three outlets in the city-state. But rising rents forced Chris to close and seek a new culinary adventure.

He found that adventure at Villa Song’s picturesque riverside restaurant, an oasis of emerald green lawn, frangipani trees, river views and a choice of outdoor or indoor dining.

The AsiaLIFE team began our

fine dining fusion experience with cold savoury fish angel hair (VND250,000), a stunning coil of pasta infused with a salted fish sauce, spring onion oil and chunks of crab meat, garnished with pretty edible flowers. This first dish set a very high bar, flavour-wise. And, incredibly, each dish we sampled met or exceeded the standard of the first dish.

My favourite dish was a falloff-the-bone tender lemongrass duck leg confit (VND450,000), served with carrot puree, sauteed mushroom, potato dauphinoise and a pina colada gravy that was so good I ate spoonfuls of it when the wait staff weren’t looking.

The Kyushu-style duo of pork (VND520,000) had an array of flavours and textures.

The first part of the pork duo was a melt-in-the-mouth chunk

of slow-braised Kakuni pork belly. The second part was a basil and mint-cured pork tenderloin. Accompanying, and complimenting perfectly, was a cauliflower puree, tempura enoki mushroom and a Kakuni sauce.

Chris said the next dish, betel leaf chicken breast roulade (VND400,000), contained a nod to the Vietnamese bo la lot (beef wrapped in betel leaf). These chicken rolls, however, are much more substantial than the cigarsized bo la lot, and were served accompanied by a carrot puree and a homemade satay sauce.

(Yup, I had a couple of spoonfuls of this sauce as well. But by now the wait staff had noticed my poor table manners.)

The final main course dish was 24-hour Gochuchang beef bourguignon (VND650,000), beef short ribs in red wine sauce, mashed potato, pickled pear,

grilled carrot and asparagus, onion petals and Gochuchang jus. The soft and melty beef had a complex flavour and a very subtle sweetness. As in all the dishes we tried, as much attention had been paid to the preparation of the vegetables as the meat, perfectly grilled to bring out the flavours, yet retaining just the right amount of crunch.

The desserts were even more visually stunning than the mains.

We sampled a delicious ginger creme brulee (VND160,00), served with spiced poached pear, mascarpone mousse and cinnamon soil, as well as the rambutan honey parfait (VND190,000), with lemon curd, torched meringue and tiny nuggets of microwaved sponge.

They were the perfect finale to an amazing gastronomic journey.

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THE BOATHOUSE 40 Lily, APSC Luxury Villa Compound, 36 Thảo Điền Road, Thao Dien Ward, District 2 facebook.com/boathousevietnam.

Jess Warren checks out the new menu at an old favourite.

Photos by Jonny Edbrooke.

The Boathouse, already an institution among Ho Chi Minh City’s expat community, has turned its crowd-pleasing up a notch with a dynamic new menu.

For 11 years now, the riverside restaurant has been a popular spot for breakfast, brunch, dinner, coffee or a few quiet ales.

New manager Adam Schofield has kept The Boathouse’s “something for everyone” style, but whittled the menu down, keeping the favourites and adding new dishes, including a range of vegetarian options.

As well as a new menu, The Boathouse’s overall look is being updated with some modest renovations, set for completion at the end of August.

The AsiaLIFE team decided 38 AsiaLIFE HCMC

to check out the restyling from a prime position under an umbrella on the deck.

From the vegetarian menu, we sampled the Barbacoa Tacos, (VND85,000), where the jackfruit created an almost meat-like texture, and the warm depth of flavour accompanied with a drizzle of fresh lime livened the dish.

We also tried the Cauliflower Po-Boy (VND175,000), a substantial serving of perfectly spiced cauliflower surrounded by delicious salad in a crunchy roll.

On the meat front, the Crab Cake Poppers, (VND185,000), were an immediate favourite, delicate crab meat encased in golden fried goodness and served with a tangy dipping sauce. It’s a good-sized portion for a shared starter, although it’s possible you won’t want to

share these.

The Satay Platter, (VND285,000), came as a huge bowl of skewered chicken, steak, prawn, and vegetables, served with a cashew dipping sauce. This colourful and perfectly cooked bowl was made for sharing. If you’re a fan of wings, you’ll want to order half a dozen classic chicken wings with Bourbon Barbeque Sauce, (VND130,000).

A rich, tangy sauce with a warm depth of flavour and a bit of spice, these wings go down a treat.

As with any meal, the drinks must not be forgotten and we were certainly treated to a variety of cocktails. The Mocha Martini, (VND155,000), was a smooth classic, and beautifully presented. Whereas the Watermelon Agua Fresca, (VND145,000), was a refreshing

twist of rum and fruit, that could trick you into thinking the drink was healthy. The Gin and Ginger cocktail (VND135,000), was perfectly spiced with ginger ale, making it a cool yet fiery drink, suitable for all gin lovers out there.

Finally, the Frozen Transfusion, (VND135,000) was a light, fruity, grape juice cocktail spiced with ginger and vodka.

During happy hour, from 3pm to 7pm, all cocktails are VND100,000, a carafe of house wine is VND200,000 and a Tiger draft is VND40,000.

With a relaxed atmosphere and easy to share menu, it is obvious why many choose this riverside location to step away from the busy streets of Saigon for a few hours. This popular spot for sociable dining has only managed to improve upon itself once again.

THE SHAMROCK SAIGON 19 Thai Van Lung Street, District 1, HCMC https://www.facebook.com/ShamrockSaigon

Peter Cornish tries the new menu at everyone’s favourite Irish pub.

Photos by Jonny Edbrooke.

The Shamrock on Thai Van Lung street is as close to a quintessential Irish pub as you’ll get in Ho Chi Minh, in fact it’s probably the closest you’ll get to a proper pub in a city full of bars. The walls are covered with familiar faces from both sides of the Emerald Isle’s borders, James Joyce, Bernard Shaw, Oscar Wilde and the subdued lighting creates a warm and welcoming environment.

To be sure we got stuck right in to the scran so we did, and with resident chef Thierry Faburel of renowned Underground fame in charge of the kitchen we knew we were in for a treat. With the Shamrock’s new menu focusing on high quality pub food, it’s also as close to a gastro pub as the city gets.

Without the pretence.

First to arrive at the table were some beer battered onion

rings accompanied by some Dijon mustard, mayo and honey dipping sauce. The beer used in the batter is from Pasteur Street Brewing Company and compliments the mustardy tang of the sauce and the full flavours of the moist, perfectly cooked onion.

Next up were the bacon stuffed chicken wings, de-boned and an excellent bar snack or a great sharer. Crispy to eat and substantially stuffed with bacon and minced pork, shallots and garlic, these make a perfect compliment to a beer or two while watching the match. Yes, Shamrock has several TV screens and a projector if you want some sport with your beers.

And where would an Irish pub menu be without a traditional curry, so we ordered the chicken masala, not as hot as the madras but mildly spicy with a slightly

cream sauce. The chicken was mouth-wateringly tender, and the rice was properly cooked, firm but not hard. Home-made naan freshly bbq-ed.

The winner of the afternoon’s feast was the Irish stout beef pot pie, with large chunks of Australian beef and beer from PSBC giving a rich, deeply coloured gravy. The beef was exactly the right texture, crumbling apart as it melts in your mouth and with potatoes this is a filling, satisfying, very hearty pie that’s a gourmet meal in itself.

There’s no Guinness on tap, but this is Vietnam so what do you expect. There’s some Magners Irish cider, Heverlee and a couple of PSBCs on tap, including the jasmine IPA. The bar stocks a respectable selection of whiskey and whisky for everyone’s taste and there’s an

assortment of the usual spirits you’d expect in a well-stocked bar. A small wine cabinet holds a choice of mainly New World wines.

There wasn’t room for pudding, but we stuffed down a rhubarb crumble full of the flavour of fruit, and then a chocolate fondant cake with chocolate lava filling. It was excessive but had to be done.

And in case you’re wondering, every section of the menu has at least one quality vegetarian option.

The Shamrock is a local pub for local people giving you that home away from home experience. Happy Hour is ‘buy two get one’ from 4pm till 7pm and if you check in on Facebook they’ll give you a 5% discount on your bill. Add a review and they’ll up it to 10%. Now that’s Irish hospitality for you!

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Barbara Adam investigates puppy prosthetics ... and discovers a heart of gold. Photo by Romain Garrigue.

ilk the pug seems suitably proud of his wheelchair, made with love by his “Dad”, Oscar Fernando Ruiz.

“It’s not my design,” Oscar said modestly.

“It’s Google’s.”

But Milk doesn’t care. He’s busy rolling along, accepting pats and hanging with his pug “brother”, Moto, who has graduated from a wheelchair to using his own legs to get around.

Milk and Moto are the resident pups at Oscar’s new Colombian restaurant in Thao Dien, Don Patacon. (Which really is worth checking out.)

Oscar rescued Moto after losing his beloved Labrador, Sophie, in a spate of dog poisonings in Thao Dien last August, which claimed the lives of at least nine dogs belonging to expats.

“That was a very very sad time for me,” Oscar said. Friends suggested he get another dog to help ease the pain of his loss, and then he heard about Moto from a dog rescue group.

“He was sad and thin, had skin problems, was weak and smelly and scared,” Oscar said. He also couldn’t walk. So Oscar made him a wheelchair.

Over the course of a year, Oscar made

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ten different wheelchairs for Moto, perfecting the design each time to suit the pug’s progress. “I took the design from the internet,” he said.

Now Moto doesn’t need a wheelchair at all. “He can walk, although he walks a bit like Charlie Chaplin,” Oscar said.

Oscar’s experience with the wheelchairs led him to Milk, another rescue dog. No one is quite sure why Milk can’t walk, and whether he will eventually graduate from his wheelchair.

It takes Oscar, who is busy with Don Patacon, about two weeks to make a dog wheelchair. He can only work on a wheelchair on his one day off a week, and needs to measure the dog, make the wheelchair and then make any necessary adjustments. Once the wheelchair is fitted, more modifications will be required as the dog becomes stronger and more confident with its new style.

He says he loves watching a dog use a wheelchair for the first time. At first they’re very wary, he said. They take a first step and they still look worried. But after 30 minutes they’re running. “It’s awesome,” Oscar said.

“The feeling is so good.”

Oscar’s first dog wheelchair was made out of PVC tubing, with lots of strapping

to keep it in place. He’s refined the design now, and Milk’s vehicle is metal, with a sling supporting his body and a handy footrest for the one back paw that drags on the ground when he rolls along.

Milk developed an allergy to the first material used in the sling, and Oscar discovered, through trial and error, that bandages don’t irritate the dog’s skin. And so the sling is wrapped in bandages.

The wheelchair is now so comfortable, Milk can nap in it.

Oscar has also made dog wheelchairs for several dogs in Ho Chi Minh City.

One of his “customers” is a dog that a Korean couple found on the side of the road, injured in a traffic accident.

Oscar doesn’t accept any money for the wheelchairs, not even to cover the cost of the materials. “I help anyone who needs it,” he said. “If someone contacts me and I have time and the money, I will make their dog a wheelchair.”

The Colombian expat’s love of dogs is not a new thing. At one point he had 36 rescue dogs on his farm in Colombia.

“When I moved to Vietnam, I found families for all of them,” he said.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 41

YORKSHIRE STYLE SAVOURY DUCKS

BY THE YORKSHIRE

T

his is the Yorkshire version of faggots, a savoury bundle of tastiness that is in season nearly all year round as the hare can be substituted for rabbit, wood pigeon, pheasant or even partridge, if you want to splash out a bit of money.

250g pig’s liver 200g hare thigh meat 110g pork fat 2 medium onions 1 egg (beaten) ½ tspn of finely chopped thyme ½ tspn finely chopped sage ½ tspn of finely chopped basil Good pinch of salt and ½ tspn of fresh ground black pepper Pinch of grated nutmeg bread crumbs

42 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Method

BLADE

Cut the liver, hare, onions and pork fat into one centimetre cubes.

Place into the saucepan with thyme, sage, basil, salt, pepper and nutmeg and cover with water.

Simmer for 30 minutes, then strain off the liquid (don’t throw it away, it’s good for the gravy if using stock cubes).

Squash down the mixture with a potato masher and add the egg and then bread crumbs and mix until you have a firm mixture that you can form into balls a bit bigger than a golf ball.

Place into a baking tin, with about one centimetre of chicken stock.

Bake at 180˚C until nicely browned (rolling every five minutes).

Remove “ducks” from stock and thicken the liquid on the stove top with a little butter and flour and cook out for at least ten minutes.

Serve with the thickened gravy, sweet peas and chips, country mash, Yorkshire puddings and/or fresh crusty bread.

BO LUC LAC

CUBED BEEF

BY TRISTAN NGO

Chef, patron and owner of Skewers Restaurant The Elbow Room and Cafe Sweet Street.

V

ietnamese culture is about sharing. The idea of one big steak for one is foreign to the Vietnamese people.

Therefore it is often cut up into bite size pieces to share amongst friends and family. Not sure when the dish was introduced to Vietnam but bo luc lac is definitely French inspired by the way it is eaten, prepared and served.

I don’t know when beef was actually introduced to Vietnam but I remember reading an article sometime ago regarding how Mongolians brought beef with them when they invaded Vietnam back in the tenth century but that was about it. However, before French colonization, Vietnamese people did not slaughter cows for food but rather used them more for manual labor. By the 1920s the Vietnamese had adapted beef into their diet through dishes such as pho and beef steak.

Bo luc lac literally translated is shaking beef due to the constant shaking motion of the pan or wok to toss the beef while cooking the meat. The reason being is you want the beef to be cooked evenly and since they are cubed it is easily burned or undercooked. This is a very popular dish amongst locals and as such it has many variations. It can be served as a salad, appetizer, with a drink or as a main dish with rice, nui (Vietnamese for macaroni) or fries.

To make the dish you will need to have a nice piece of beef tenderloin cut up in one inch cubes. Marinate the beef with soy sauce, fish sauce, oyster sauce, sesame oil and garlic. Refrigerate for about an hour or so in order for the flavour to soak evenly into the cubed beef.

While the beef is chilling in the fridge, whisk the rice wine vinegar together with salt and sugar until smooth for a nice vinaigrette. Add sliced onions and refrigerate for about 15 minutes

or so to pickle the onions and the slightly chilled vinaigrette.

Next step is to heat the wok (best option in my opinion), pan or skillet and add oil. My variations call for chunks of bell peppers and onions to cook first and then toss in the beef. Constantly shake the wok to cook the beef evenly for about two to four minutes or until desired. Another variation is to add macaroni or tube pastas to the beef.

When done, serve the cubed beef over a bed of lettuce or watercress and tomato slices. Sprinkle the vinaigrette over the salad and beef. Top with cilantro and a side of lime wedges. Last but not least a side of lime juice with salt and pepper dipping sauce for the beef.

This is a very simple yet sexy dish to make at home or enjoy out for lunch with friends. Make sure to share and enjoy with a nice Californian Merlot, an Australian Shiraz or a SaiGon Special.

1. Quan Le Hong (Le Hong Beefsteak) 489/27/39 Huynh Van Banh Street (between Le Van Sy and Truong Sa) Phu Nhuan District, HCMC Not so close to the city centre of District 1 but worth the trip.

2. Quan Beefsteak Nam Son 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Ward 6, District 1 HCMC Open since 1991 and is one of the first to introduce beefsteak as the main dish to the local HCMC community.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 43

listings

hotel & travel CON DAO Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 0254 4830 939 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities and tours.

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 0254 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villa has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.

DALAT Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 0263 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La

Cochinchine Spa offers a wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat Tel: 0263 383 1515 www.dalatedensee.com Nestled in the heart of the “Black Forest of Vietnam” and discretely hidden along the waterfront of Tuyen Lam Lake, this resort is a perfect launching point for exploring the Highland region. It has two fine-dining restaurants, a café and terrace, a cigar lounge, and golfing and tennis.

Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 0263 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in the 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic.

It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

HANOI

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 024 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 024 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only five minutes from the city centre, Möven-

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pick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 024 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 024 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY

Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 028 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 / Tel: 028 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with a gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Renaissance Riverside 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 028 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com 349 rooms/suites with panoramic views over Saigon River. Conference/banquet facilities, rooftop pool, gym, two restaurants.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 / Tel: 028 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel: Level 23 bar, Mojo café, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

basketball and badminton courts.

NHA TRANG

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 0258 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa / Tel: 0258 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms, divided into villas and condos, catering by well-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito's bar.

PHAN THIET

Princess D’Ânnam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan.

Tel: 0252 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 0252 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool andC day spa.

M

SCUBA DIVING

Y

Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centresCM recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional MY Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) CY and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with CMY unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

K Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 0908 781 756 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 / Tel: 028 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 0258 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co. with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services.

HUE, HOI AN & DANANG

TRAVEL AGENTS

InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula Tel: 0236 393 8888 danang.intercontinental.com A world of poetic experiences and jungle-clad romance in a place that cloaks you with luxury. The mastery of traditional Vietnamese design meets modern architectural flair in this distinctive retreat within the dense rainforest of mythical Monkey Mountain.

Nam Hai Tel: 0235 3940 000 www.ghmhotels.com/en/namhai/ Luxury resort accommodation from single villas to sumptuous five-room dwellings with private pools. Facilities include 8 private spa villas; 3 beachfront swimming pools; library; and tennis,

Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: Level 8 157 Pasteur, D3 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District Tel: 024 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com Tailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

EXO Travel HCMC: 41, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3519 4111 saigonagency@exotravel.com HANOI: 3rd Fl, 66A, Tran Hung Dao Hoan Kiem Tel: 024 3828 2150 hanoiagency@exotravel.com www.traveltrade.exotravel.com

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8:58 AM

listings

food & drink DISTRICT 1 Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 028 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 028 3823 8424 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 028 5410 1093 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Anan Saigon 89 Ton That Dam, District 1 Serves up some incredible modern Vietnamese food thanks to chef and owner Peter Coung Franklin. The restaurant and rooftop bar’s name means ‘eat-eat’, and that’s certainly what the menus encourage you to do.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 028 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Bamboo Chic Le Meridien, 3C Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 028 6263 6688 Slick, minimalistic restaurant boasting a stunning view of the Saigon River as well as a menu of high­quality cuisine that mixes Japanese and coastal Chinese styles. Worth a visit, even if it’s just for a cocktail.

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, corner of Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts.

Wood-fired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Bep Me In 136/9 Let Thanh Ton, D1 Home-cooked Vietnamese dishes from all regions of Vietnam, with no MSG, just like you’d be served at a family party in the countryside.

Boulevard Grill Bar Leman Luxury Apartments, 22 Truong Dinh, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City boulevardgrill.com.vn Boulevard might look a little like a cafe in a shopping centre, but the two Vietnamese chefs in the kitchen send out fine dining-style dishes. The comprehensive menu carries a wide array of excellent steaks, salads, pastas and other grilled items.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1

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94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.  Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia.

El Camino 91 Pasteur, District 1 Tel: 09 09 26 19 88 A friendly neighbourhood bar blasting old school hip hop and serving delicious Korean-style tacos.

Guanabana 23 Ly Tu Trong, District 1 Tel: 09 09 82 48 30 Guanabana brings a California approach with its all-natural range of healthy smoothies. The smoothies are available in three varieties and are priced between VND 45,000 and VND 65,000.

Heart of Darkness Craft Brewery 31D Ly Tu Trong, D 1 While Heart of Darkness remains the brewery it always was and always will be, it’s now gaining a well-earned reputation as a place to chow down on some pretty decent grub.

Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

In Saigong Rooftop Bar 27-29 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 Tel: 028 9934 4350 The city’s only Wollongong-themed bar, this rooftop bar is a relaxing place to unwind with local and craft beers, cocktails and a varied menu.

Jake’s BBQ 50 Pasteur Street, D1 Tel: 028 3825 1311 Genuine, warm service from Chef Jake himself sets this American Barbeque joint apart. A true slice of Americana in Vietnam. Large portions, smoked meats, and the only ‘Jucy Lucy’ burger in town!  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 028 3822 9926 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Dist 1, HCMC Tel: 028 3827 0931 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. The Dong Khoi branch has recently been renovated with new menu and decor.



Kay’s Vegan Bistro Hem 84 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 090 395 81 69 Homemade vegan delights from all over Southeast Asia and beyond. With daily specials and ingredients available to take home, it’s a hit with the locals.

Koto 19 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Da Kao Ward, Di1 T: +84 28 3822 9357 E: rese.hcm@koto.com.au This is the Saigon arm of the renowned organisation that began in Hanoi a

decade ago. Vietnamese food is prepared with innovative twist by young people Koto are helping get a start in the hospitality industry and on a path for a better life.

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 028 3823 2223 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Kissho boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

La Brasserie 2nd Floor, Hotel Nikko Saigon 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 028 3925 7777 Offers wide international buffet stations for breakfast and dinner. Nightly live music performance.

La Chola de Lima 74 Hai Ba Trung, D 1 www.lacholadelima.com Tel: 028 3823 8793 The long-awaited newcomer to the food-centric courtyard at 74 Hai Ba Trung, the diversity of Peruvian cuisine is celebrated with a fusion menu showcasing Creole, Japanese and Chinese flavours.

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 028 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway, decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Layla - Eatery & Bar 2nd Floor, 63 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 028 3827 2279 Created by food and cocktail lovers who wanted to share their passion for great food, amazing cocktails and Australianstyle hospitality in a welcoming converted apartment overlooking Dong Khoi Street.

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 028 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Nightly a la carte menu with dishes going from 100k VND. Mad Cow Wine and Grill Level 30, Pulman Hotel, 148 Tran Hung Dao Street, D 1 Tel: 028 3838 8639 Casual, almost a homely style of cuisine, and sourced primarily from Australia. “We pride ourselves on great steaks and seafood, with a grass-fed orientated menu” according to Danny Grimshaw, chef and butcher at Mad Cow. Malt 46 – 48 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 09 1848 4763 American-style bar that offers good beer, shuffleboard and an interesting pub grub menu in a casual setting.

Manmaru 71 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Japanese izakaya with a solid lineup of affordable beers, sakes and whiskies.

Whether you choose the casual, pub­like experience downstairs, or the formal dining terrace upstairs, expect excellent food and even better prices.

Service is friendly and efficient and always welcoming.

Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Ming Court 3rd Floor, Hotel Nikko Saigon 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 028 3925 7777 Featuring authentic Chinese cuisine and a wide selection of delectable All-youcan-eat Dim Sum. Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end café with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs.

Good business coffee or lunch venue.

Mountain Retreat 36 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 90 719 45 57 A rustic restaurant perched above downtown offering a secluded getaway and tasty traditional food.

NAMO Tuscan Grill 146-148 Pasteur, D 1 Tel; 08 3822 1431 Focussing on rustic Italian fare coming off of their custom-built wood-fired grill. The layout is open and relaxed, reflecting the colour and energy of Florence and the Tuscany region.

Old Compass Cafe 3rd Floor 63/11 Pasteur St, D1 (next to Liberty Citypoint Hotel) Tel: +848 3827 2878 The Old Compass Cafe has managed to position itself as a quiet oasis of calm amidst the city’s chaos. The menu is simple and offers a choice of breakfast, lunch dinner, gourmet sandwiches, pastries and desserts.

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Quan Bui Add 1: 17A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 028 38 29 15 15 Add 2: 55 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 From the team behind Quan Bui, the popular casual Vietnamese eatery on the north edge of District 1, is this fourfloor fine-dining restaurant in downtown Saigon. The chic design and ambience, as well as its rooftop garden, are designed to attract a more up-market clientele.

Quan Ut Ut 168 Vo Van Kiet, D1 Tel: 028 39 14 45 00 American-style barbecue meets Vietnam-style dining with big wooden tables and benches that are reminiscent of an open-air quan. Serving a wide range of smoked and barbecued meats.

Quince 37bis Ky Con, D1 Tel: 2838 21 8661 Sister restaurant to Quince Bangkok, serving high-end cuisene developed by chef Julien Perraund working from the open kitchen. A short simple menu based on fresh local produce.

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Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 - 23 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 028 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world.

Private rooms are available.

Relish and Sons 44 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 012 07 214 294 105-107 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 90 900 4294 Facebook.com/RelishAndSons Burgers are the stars of the show in Relish & Sons, with six varieties, all composed of different but expertly combined ingredients.  Romeo and Juliet Times Square Building, 57 – 69F Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 028 38 236 688 TheReverieSaigon.com Underground restaurant of the newlyopened Reverie Saigon, Romeo and Juliet is reinventing local dining to encourage the kind of slower, savourthe-moment experience that allows guests to enjoy the space’s ambiance, food and top-notch service.

Royal Pavilion Reverie Saigon Hotel, 4th Floor, 22 36 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 028 3823 6688 Located in the Reverie Saigon Hotel, the Royal Pavilion serves up classic Cantonese cuisine in fine dining style.

Featuring a menu of epic proportions, there is sure to be something for everyone.

Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 028 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu. Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 028 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Sancho’s Craft Beer and Mexican Kitchen 207 Bui Vien, D1 090 126 82 26 Real Mexi-Cali food with passion, served with a selection of crafts beers.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 028 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab.

Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas. Stoker Woodfired Grill & Bar 44 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 090 729 2725 District 1 venue with spacious bar downstairs and upstairs dining room.

Serving a full selection of home aged US and Australian beef complimented by a delicious sides.

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Tomatito 171 Calmette, D1 Tomatito is all about the sexy, from the bold and colourful Spanish-themed interior showcasing El Willy’s unique personality, to the hot Latin passion in his interpretation of traditional Spanish tapas.

Tandoor 39A-39B Ngo Duc Ke, D1 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events.  The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 028 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

The Racha Room 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 09 08 791 412 RachaRoom.com.vn With street and hawker specialties from Thailand prepared under one roof – and in one room – The Racha Room is a restaurant-cum-lounge fit for a king.

The Refinery C 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 028 3823 0509 M Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant Y section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spansCMa price range to suit most budgets.

MY

Tuk Tuk Thai Bistro 17/11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 CY Tel: 028 35 21 85 13 CMY Tuktukthaibistro.com Tuk Tuk, a chic new modern Thai K bistro. With three floors of seating, an open-air roof area and an array of Thai dishes to excite your palate.

Union Jack’s Fish and Chips Upper Deck, 130 Ton That Dam, D1 Jack’s Fish & Chips is a tribute to this traditional British fare that harks back to the childhood of owner Matt Ryan, who grew up on the A30 road from London.

Urban Kitchen + Bar 18 Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 028 62 506 363 UrbanKitchenBar.com Urban Kitchen takes a nuanced approach to Western cuisine, producing an eclectic compilation of regional North American dishes – whether it’s comfort food of the American south, Quebecois specialties or East Coast-inspired.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items. Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 47

DISTRICT 2

ambience, with a gorgeous garden setting designed to attract a more upmarket clientele.

Buddha Bar

D2 By Rupert Dean

IMBIBE BROADENING MY HORIZONS I was invited to a tasting in Thao Dien last month by Alex Sitari of Vinoteka Ltd, who is importing the sparkling wines of Cricova from Moldova.

This was my first encounter with this producer’s offerings, despite an initial introduction to Moldovan wine in London, some 20 years ago.

Based 15km north of the capital, Chisinau, Cricova is not just any old winery.

Established in 1952, Cricova is now one of the world’s largest producers of sparkling wines.

In 1952 this establishment was conceived as a Soviet style co-operative or Integrated Production Factory “Soviet Combinat” (a vertically integrated structure, from grapes to bottles), however, the business has reverted to Moldovan ownership. Modern winemaking technology has arrived and sits next to many traditional methods of production to maintain wine quality. Cricova is famed for its vast network of limestone caves, which provided limestone for the capital’s construction in the 15th century but were later developed into wine caves and run to 120 kilometres some 100 metres underground.

This cavernous underground maze of roadways has a riveting history. Alex is just the man to introduce the wines as he was formerly an employee of Cricova and knows all the stories.

Nowadays, Cricova makes sparkling wines both in the Charmat (tank) Method and in the Methode Traditionelle (the classic Champagne

method of bottle fermentation).

They also use the traditional varieties of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay plus some Sauvignon Blanc and Chasselas as well as the local grape variety Feteasca Alba.

Feteasca Alba is a white grape variety cultivated all over Eastern Europe and is particularly well suited to sparkling wines and dessert wines. I was impressed with this variety and by the Cricova Crisecco Brut NV which Alex described as “an excellent alternative to Prosecco”. I would have to agree as it has an attractive, slightly tropical aroma which is balanced by a soft mouthfeel, with lingering stone fruit flavours. A bargain at around 350,000 VND per bottle.

At the premium end the two Method Traditionelle wines, the Cricova Cuvee Prestige Brut NV and the Cricova Cuvee Prestige Rose NV Brut were also great value. The Prestige White NV had a rich toasty aroma with a prominent nuttiness and honeycomb character.

On the palate the wine has soft fruits which are balanced with a good mouthfeel and lingering aftertaste.

The Prestige Rose NV was my favourite of the tasting, showing light red berried fruit with an elegant red currant, raspberry flavour with subtle spiciness. These also offer good value at around 500,000 VND per bottle.

For details on which retailers/restaurants stock the wines please call Vinoteka on 0903876856.

Rupert Dean worked in the wine industry and now lives in HCMC working for Regency International. He can be contacted on rupertdean@regencyint.com.

48 AsiaLIFE HCMC

7 Thao Dien, D2 // Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise. 

BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrellashaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room.

With revamped menu which includes a mix of family-style meals with Mexican featuring predomominately, followed by Italian and Asian fare.  Bia Craft 90 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2588 A cozy bar serving beer-­themed snacks and some of the best craft ales in Saigon. Constantly buzzing with the friendly chat of local expats in the area.

District Federal 84 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Serving only the very best Mexican (not Tex-Mex) food, Mexican chef Luis Reyes creates the menu. Luis’s menu focuses on homemade and authentic Mexican food.

Ebisu 66 Song Hanh, D2 028 6276 8787 The city’s soba noodle specialists bring authenticity and professional service to the Japanese table. Sushi and grilled skewers are also specialities, DTwo Sports Bar 55­57 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3519 4138 Stylish non­smoking sports bar offering all the latest action on a choice of widescreen TVs. Perfect for sports fans who are looking for a cold pint and big portions from a tempting pub grub menu. Mad House 6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien, D2 Founded in 2015 by a couple of dedicated foodies from Denmark, Mad House has become known for its northern European style of honest, unpretentious comfort food as much as its homely yet stylish environment.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches.

Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  Thai Street 26 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 08 6654 9525 Authentic Thai menu in a casual garden setting.

Quan Bui Garden 55 Ngo Quang Huy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3898 9088 From the team behind Quan Bui, this D2 spot has all the chic design and

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

DISTRICT 3 Boulevard Grill Bar Leman Luxury Apartments, 22 Truong Dinh, D3 A wallet-friendly bistro sending out fine dining-style steaks, salads, pastas and other grilled items. Don’t miss the set lunches.

Cha Ca La Vong 3 Ho Xuan Huong, D3 Tel: 028 3930 5674 36 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 028 3915 3343 Two Ho Chi Miny City outposts of the legendary Hanoi original serve only one dish: the eponymous and delicious cha ca la vong, fish pan-fried at the table with turmeric and dill and served with cold noodles and peanuts.

Com Nieu 19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 028 3932 6288 The house specialty, com nieu (smashed rice), comes with a shattered-crockery and flying-rice show at this well-known restaurant, prominently featured in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour. An extensive and tasty selection of southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the menu.

Jardin Des Sens 251 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Tel: 0122 585 9069 Mediterranean-influenced fine dining in a historic French colonial villa, Jardin Des Sens is the latest project of twin French chefs Jacques and Laurent Pourcel.

DISTRICT 5 Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 028 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

DISTRICT 7 Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 028 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

Speakeasy S35-1 Le Van Thiem, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 093 722 11 03 The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 028 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends. 

Q.itchen Factory 2nd floor, Lot DVTM-9, Road 7, Tan Thuan Export Processing Zone, D7.

Viva Tapas Bar & Grill 90 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 028 54 106 721 Tucked away on a quiet street in Phu My Hung, Viva is colourful and welcoming and has both indoor and outdoor seating. Tapas make up the bulk of the menu and cover traditional dishes as well as a few house specialties that put a quirky twist on things. 

nightlife See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Saigon Saigon Bar Rooftop via 9th floor, Caravelle Saigon Hotel, 19 - 23 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 028 3823 4999 A great iconic bar to watch the sun go down over the city skyline, or dance the night away. The panoramic views of the city are spectacular, particularly in the evenings. Live entertainment nightly with Cuban band Q’vans except Tuesday from 9:00pm till late.

BAKERIES Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery.

Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked goods from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 028 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

at home DELIVERY

Patty’s Kitchen www.facebook.com/ homecookhealthyfood Home-made meals for pick-up or delivery.

Established 1997

www.vietnammm.com A free website that allows users to order delivery from dozens of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City.

Simply provide your address and phone number and pay the delivery driver in cash when he arrives

GROCERIES

Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 028 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2630 Takashimaya Saigon Center 65 Le Loi, D1 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products. Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor.

Cosy café serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches.

NOW IN STOCK

The latest line of Vogmask face masks, perfect for filtering all the air pollution while adding a bit of style.

Kim Hai Butchery 46 Nguyen Thai Binh, D1 C Tel: 028 3914 4376 This town is definitely big enough for two Australian butchers. Reasonably M priced imported beef, fish, chicken, and more at this original neighbourhood Y fixture.

CM

Meatworks Butchery MY 1, Street 2, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2565 CY Imported meats from Australia, including top-quality beef and lamb, CMY and locally sourced pork and chicken..

Proudly Australian owned and K managed.

MegaMart An Phu, D2 Tel: 028 3740 6677 Tan Thoi Hiep, D12 Tel: 028 3717 2979 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares-basically everything.

We also stock over 150 premium quality imported Italian helmets

Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 arlene@organikvn.com www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported allnatural products.

Phuong Ha 58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 028 3914 1318 A mini-supermarket that sells an extensive assortment of imported packaged food, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and fine wines.

Veggy’s 14 Pham Hong Thai, D1 Tel: 028 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Popular expat market with a walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

Vietnam’s only 100% foreign owned and fully licenced 1-stop scooter shop 151 Luong Dinh Cua , Phuong Binh An , District 2 , HCM City.

Open every day 9.00am until 5.30pm. Tel : 0903013690 www.saigonscootercentre.com For more info - info@saigonscootercentre.com

listings By Phil Kelly

FITNESS WEIGHTED GAINS: 5 UNFAMILIAR BENEFITS OF LIFTING WEIGHTS The potential benefits from performing resistance exercise, whether it is calisthenics or lifting weights are immense. These benefits are rather well known yet most still shy away from pushing themselves in the lifting area of the fitness arena.

Research shows that not only can resistance training improve your body composition and give you a toned appearance; it’s actually the best type of training to achieve these goals. Weight training is commonly thought of as workouts for men and women who simply want to body-build but there are a huge range of incredible benefits. Building lean tissue makes you stronger, decreases your risk of diabetes, fights osteoporosis, prevents back pain, makes your joints more stable, and even helps you fight depression. I want to talk about five less or unknown benefits of resistance training: Be A Better Mover Lifting weights should reinforce correct posture and movement patterns. It teaches you to control your body parts, movements and positions when under load. A great resistance programme balances strength ratios of muscles and counters poor posture. Resistance training also improves the strength of joint stabilisers, protecting you from injury as well as improving dexterity, endurance and hand-eye coordination.

Lean Tissue Fights Fat Resistance training develops type 2 muscle fibres. Research shows that type 2 muscle fibres improve whole-body metabolism and can reduce body fat without changes to diet. Want to eat that extra piece of cake without feeling guilty? Do some squats and push ups.

Insulin Management To achieve optimal health and body composition you must aim to be as insulin sensitive as possible. World leading strength and conditioning coach, Charles Poliquin, states “for every 10% increase in muscle mass you’ll get an 11% reduction in insulin resistance. Even when you’re not working out, muscle consumes the majority of glucose that is in the blood (70-90%)”. This means you’ll be less likely to store carbohydrates as fat when you have more muscle Ladies; The Key Word Is Lean Body tone means seeing the definition of muscles. We must have enough muscle mass for that and in order to make them visible we must have lower percentage of body fat. The only thing “bulky” on a human body is fat. Therefore, don’t fear resistance training, as lifting weights is not going to turn you into a muscle-bound monster.

Building huge muscles takes a huge amount of work. Resistance training will more likely build a fit and lean looking physique.

Strengthen the Mind & Will Resistance training doesn’t just condition the body, it also strengthens the mind. Overcoming resistance is tough and therefore teaches you persistence and resilience, the ability to embrace discomfort and challenge yourself.

Lifting weights requires focus and concentration. Testing your limits under load builds inner confidence that will crossover to help you deal with tough situations in all parts of your life.

The gains you can experience and develop from lifting weights are exceptional. Don’t shy away from lifting heavy things if you want optimum health and body composition.

Phil Kelly is a health practitioner and expert in body transformation. His services are available at Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com).

50 AsiaLIFE HCMC

sports & leisure

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF DANCING

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 028 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Salsa package for single persons and couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm). Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA

AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment.

Available for party hire - BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 028 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge work-out area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 028 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY

Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 0263 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees. Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009-yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 0251 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards.

The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city.

The Bluffs Ho Tram Strip Phuoc Thuan, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria - Vung Tau Tel: 064 378 8666 http://thebluffshotram.com/ info@thebluffshotram.com Designed by Greg Norman, The Bluffs is a 50-hectare, 18 hole links-style golf course associated with The Grand Ho Tram Strip integrated resort, about a 2.5 hour drive from Ho Chi Minh City.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0274 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

LEISURE

Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals.

Also hosts events and birthdays.

listings

health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

American Chiropractic Clinic 161 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 028 3939 3930 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treats back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 028 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Care 1 Executive Health Care Center in the Manor is the main facility for health screening and wellness check-ups.

To fit into your busy life, Care 1 offers one stop service - modern, comprehensive healthcare services and state-of the-art facilities all in one place.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons.

DENTAL

Accadent 39 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 6267 6666 A clinic that brings leading German dentistry to Vietnam. All dentists here were trained in Germany and all equipment comes from Germany to ensure proper hygiene and quality.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 24 Thao Dien, D2 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 028 3822 6222 With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. With the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

Minh Khai Dental Clinic 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 028 3925 3399 nhakhoaminhkhai@gmail.com www.nhakhoaminhkhai.com No.1 Dental Clinic 51 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 028 3929 0909 nhakhoano1@gmail.com www.nhakhoano1.com Located in District 10, No.1 offers general dentistry services include fillings, checkups and teeth cleaning and specialist

dental care that includes dental implants, orthodontics (braces), endodontics (root canals), prosthodontics (false teeth, including dentures, crowns and veneers) and cosmetic dentistry, such as laser teeth whitening.

West Coast Dental Clinic 27 Nguyen Ba Lan, D2 Tel: 028 3519 1777 www.westcoastinternational.com

PEOPLE AT HEART

CENTRE MÉDICAL INTERNATIONAL Fondation Alain Carpentier

MEDICAL Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 028 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynecology, pediatrics, ophthalmology, psychology, psychiatry, osteopathy, acupuncture and psychomotor therapy.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3822 7848 95 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2000 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

ÊTRE PROCHES DE NOS PATIENTS RENFORCE LA QUALITÉ DE NOS SOINS

BEING CLOSE TO OUR PATIENTS STRENGTHENS THE QUALITY OF OUR CARE

VIỆC GẦN GŨI VỚI BỆNH NHÂN NHẰM TĂNG CHẤT LƯỢNG DỊCH VỤ CHĂM SÓC

General and tropical medicine • Pediatrics • Cardiology • Obstetrics/Gynecology • Traditional oriental medicine • Psychiatry • Psychology • Osteopathic medicine • Psychomotor therapy • Speech and language therapy • Childbirth education classes • Home nurse service •

HANH PHUC, International Hospital Binh Duong boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 3636068 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a comSKINCARE prehensive range of quality healthcare 120x85mm.indd 1 services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer, Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving from HCMC. HANH PHUC International Hospital Clinic 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 028 3925 9797 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive range of services specializing in Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics, Immunization, General Practice and Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm.

Raffles Medical Clinic 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 028 3845 4218 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 028 3910 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

Open with doctors on call 24/7.

01 Han Thuyen, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: (84.28) 3827 23 66/67 - Fax: (84.28) 3827 23 65 Email: info@cmi-vietnam.com

The Body Shop 216 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 028 3820 5845 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 028 3823 3683119 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 028 3923 2918 Parkson CT Plaza, Tan Binh Tel: 028 6297 2095 Parkson Cantavil, D2 Tel: 028 6296 0265 Diamond Plaza, D1 Tel: 028 3822 1887 check out more outlet via website www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

The Face Shop 81 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 028 3829 3058 Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3507 0800 Vincom 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 028 3936 9308 Parkson Cantavil, D2 Tel: 028 37407180 check out more outlet via website www.thefaceshop.com.vn Stamford Skin Centre 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1

Tel: 028 3925 1990 www.stamfordskin.com The Stamford Skin Centre has grown to include qualified specialists who treat 3/16/2018 8:44:08 AM general diseases of the skin such as acne, eczema and other forms of dermatitis, rosacea, psoriasis, skin cancers.

Offering treatments for simple blemishes and outbreaks on a person’s face, a long standing melasma, acne scars, wrinkles or sagging skin that if treated, removed, or substantially improved.

listings

family ACTIVITIES

Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D 2 Tel: 028 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 51

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes for kids from age six.

BABY EQUIPMENT

By Shannon Brown

EDUCATION HUB RAISING CONFIDENT CHILDREN All parents and teachers want to help children while also allowing them the freedom to figure things out on their own, make mistakes, and develop problem-solving skills. The more practice children have in managing their surroundings and overcoming obstacles the more confident and competent they will become.

However, it can be hard to find the balance between protection and independence.

In today’s culture, many parents are accused of being “helicopter parents” - they hover around and provide very few opportunities for children to learn through disappointment or friction.

Here are a few tips from parenting experts on reframing your thoughts to foster confidence and self-reliance in your child.

1) Think of yourself as a coach instead of an engineer in control. As a coach, you take an active role, but you’re still on the sidelines as your child plays and learns. You don’t do things for your child, but with them. You don’t need to intervene or improve on your child’s play unless safety or boundaries are being tested. As a coach, you ensure that your child knows the rules and the right way to use the equipment, and then you step back to watch the game unfold.

2) Think of yourself as an assistant instead of the boss.

Let your child try things on their own from a very early age. You can and should be ready to step in if they need help, but encourage them to try first without you. When they accomplish something,

be congratulatory, praise them with something like: “I knew you could do it by yourself!

Well done!”

3) Think of yourself as a role-model instead of a figure head. Children are always listening and watching imitation is a giant sign of learning in early childhood development. Demonstrate what you are doing in slow, narrated steps, and watch as your child takes the initiative to copy you. This is also important in the way you talk about yourself and other people. If you talk highly of yourself and your efforts, as well as praising others when they succeed, your child will often emulate these traits.

4) Think of yourself as a cheerleader instead of a judge. All human beings need comforting and encouragement when things go wrong. When children get this encouragement at an early age, it helps to develop an inner monologue of confidence and resilience that will last throughout their lives.

5) Think of yourself as project manager instead of emergency rescue. Help your child organize things each day in a way that makes sense to them, and resist the urge to take over their tasks. Focus on effort as your child works through things, and give feedback praising things they have control over - like hard work and attention - instead of things they can’t control, like being smart or athletic.

At the end of the day, we can teach children confidence by letting go of our own anxiety and allowing them to experiment and explore.

Shannon Brown works in international education in Ho Chi Minh City and has a background in social work, public heath, and early childhood education.

52 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Maman Bebe L2-11, Vincom Quang Trung, Go Vap 3rd Flr Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza, D5 L2-11K, Vincom 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 52-54 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 191 Hoang Van Thu, Phu Nhuan S11-1 Sky Garden 1, Phu My Hung, D7 The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

CLOTHES

Albetta 32 Tran Ngoc Dien D2 58 Nguyen Duc Canh, Tan Phong, D7 Albetta is a British family owned company, with a factory in Saigon, which produces beautifully designed and handcrafted clothes, gifts, shoes and accessories for children. Their new Lucky Luca collection are available in Albetta shops now.

DLS Paris Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Little Anh – Em 41 Thao Dien, D2 A French brand made in Vietnam offering a wide selection of colourful, simply packaged and thoughtfully collated “sets” of garments for girls and boys from newborn to 10 years old. Lifestyle pieces also available include sleeping bags, bedroom accessories and bags.

Ninh Khuong 42 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 71B Dong Khoi, D1 22 Nguyen Trai, D1 344 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 343 Hai Ba Trung, D1 27 Le Van Sy, Phu Nhuan www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 028 5431 33/34/35/36 office@theabcis.com www.theabcis.com Judged “an outstanding school” by British Government Inspectors, the ABCIS is accredited by CIE, AQA and Education Development Trust and members of COBIS and FOBISIA. Serving 2-18 year olds in a caring environment, it delivers a globally valued curriculum based on best UK practice. This culminates in

the award of IGCSEs and A levels from the Cambridge and AQA examination boards. These “gold standard certifications” afford entrance to the very best universities around the world.

American International School 220 Nguyen Van Tao, Nha Be, HCMC Tel: 028 3780 0909 www.ais.edu.vn info@ais.edu.vn Established since 2006, American International School is a private school serving students from Preschool through grade 12. The school offers innovative American curriculum with true Vietnamese heritage. All students are well prepared for academic success appropriate to their needs and aspirations in the US and around the world.

The Australian International School Xi Campus (Kindergarten) 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 028 35192727 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Primary School) 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Middle & Senior School) 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) An Phu ward, D2 Tel: 028 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with three class campuses in District 2, HCMC, offering an international education from Kindergarten to Senior School with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programe (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

British International School www.bisvietnam.com Early Years and Infant Campus 101, Thao Dien Street, District 2.

Junior Campus 225 Nguyen Van Huong Street, District 2.

Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2335 BIS HCMC is the largest international school in Vietnam and operates from three purpose-built campuses in the residential area of District 2, catering for students from pre-school to 18 years of age. The school provides a broad, balanced and differentiated curriculum to within the framework of the National Curriculum for England. Staffed primarily by British qualified teachers with a minimum of 3 years’ experience. Students are prepared for both IGCSE & the IB Diploma programmes. BIS is a member of FOBISIA & fully accredited by the Council of International Schools.

EUROPEAN International School 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien.Tel: 028 7300 7257 www.eishcmc.com jura.cullen@cantab.net The EUROPEAN International School Ho Chi Minh City (EIS) offers an international education from Early Years through Primary and Secondary School. EIS is committed to educating students to become creative critical thinkers and problem solvers. In small student centred classes, students are immersed in a multicultural learning environment which values multilingualism. The language of instruction throughout the School is English; the language program includes Spanish, German, French and Vietnamese.

By Paul McLardie

PEOPLE FINANCE SUMMER LISTS This summer on my journey back to Blighty, I have been making two lists. One list is things that people who are living in the UK take for granted and the second is a list of things that I still do not understand about the UK. These are the top items from both lists.

There is nothing finer in life than sitting in a beer garden in the north-west of England waiting for a pub meal to be delivered to your table. Sorry Yorkshire folks, but this truly is God’s own country. The sky is blue and cloudless and the sun is beaming down. People are smiling and talking to complete strangers. Little problems just disappear. This summer has been amazing. Vitamin D, I am your friend.

On the flip side, anyone who can watch television from the UK (only by legal and legitimate means by the way) cannot get away from the rise of companies offering shortterm loans or so-called payday loans. These have sprung up to service those families who are a bit short of cash the week before payday and the boiler breaks down. They make it easy to get your hands on cash quickly to get it fixed. You pay back the money when you get paid and everything is sweet.

Unfortunately, this is not the only way these loans are being used.

They are being used by people who can’t get credit from traditional lenders such as the high street banks. Pawn brokers have always offered these types of facilities but they take something as collateral that they will sell if you do not pay the loan back in time.

Payday loan companies can’t do that so if you can’t pay the loan back within say, the given 30-day period, you may be able to increase the amount of time you pay back, possibly up to a year. This is where the APR will smack you hard. Let’s say they give you an Annual Percentage Rate of 2000% (I have seen them at over 5000%), this means that if paid back over a year, for every pound borrowed, you will be paying back 20.

Now this comes to the advice part for us living over in Asia. Of course we cannot get access to payday loans here and however quick the unlicensed money lenders are here, just stay clear of them.

Use your emergency savings.

I have long been an advocate of having at least three to six months salary sitting in a bank with easy access. This is also your payday loan fund. Take from it when you really need to. Your first thought should always be to save up but if it is time critical, use the money that is sitting there but with a few rules. Never borrow more than 50% of your emergency savings. Always pay back in full within three months and always fully repay before dipping back in. Finally, if you have had to dip in three or more times during a year, your budgeting isn’t working and you need to sit down and go through what, where and when you are spending. You will find that you are easily overspending your income and with a few little changes to your lifestyle, this will stop.

The next two things on my lists. Wine gums and hot and cold taps.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management. Contact him at Paul.mclardie@t-wm.com.

International School HCMC Primary Campus 28 Vo Truong Toan St.,D2 Secondary Campus 01 Xuan Thuy St., D2 +84 (28) 3898 9100 admissions@ishcmc.edu.vn www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures. With two campus; Primary and Secondary.

www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and six years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

The International School HCMC American Academy 26 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 028 3898 9098 www.aavn.edu.vn The International School Ho Chi Minh City - American Academy is a worldclass middle and high school for children aged 11 to 18 years old. Offering a comprehensive academic program built upon the principles and standards of the American education system..

ENTERTAINMENT

International School Saigon Pearl 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District Tel: 028 2222 7788/99 www.issp.edu.vn The International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is a world-class Elementary School for children aged 18 months to 11 years old offering a full American school curriculum in Vietnam. With a custom built primary campus ISSP’s ethos is centered on building caring relationships with each child and family.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 028 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 028 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn An International British school providing inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. The school has made a conscious decision to limit numbers and keep class sizes small to ensure each student is offered an education tailored to meet his or her individual learning needs. It is a family school providing a stimulating and secure learning environment with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 028 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6076

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 028 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age three to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones entertained for hours with an impressive array of video games.

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 028 3827 7008 The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to five years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in innovative parent-child programmes.

PARTIES

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other costumes.

Bibi Clown - Chu he Bibi Tel: 0933 131 012 bibiclown.blogspot.com Does exactly as his name suggests.

Great service has earned him a reputation for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons and games in both English and Vietnamese.

The Balloon Man Mr Hoat 0903 837 326 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. He will come to your place for decoration but English not as good. Also provides helium balloons.

listings

living CAMERAS

Kiet Camera Ground Floor, Lucky Plaza, 69 Dong Khoi, D1 Very reliable shop with large range of kit and very good prices. If he hasn’t got in stock, Kiet can quickly find it.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1

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An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS

By Gary Woollacott

PEOPLE MATTER SUCCESSION PLANNING I’m indebted to SF who helped me with this month’s topic: succession planning. And I’m adding building a talent pipeline to that. Both of these (fairly simple) concepts might coincide in an unwanted way one day when one of your top people resigns and is suddenly leaving. When your top performer resigns their notice period goes by in a flash. On the other hand, when you’ve recruited and are waiting the 30 or 45 days for the new person to come, it seems like an eternity. If you’re a manager, chances are you have experienced both these scenarios.

An unexpected resignation is always a shock. Sometimes managers react badly and refuse to accept the resignation – as if it was their choice. We don’t work in an indentured society, people are free to choose who they give their labour to, and managers certainly don’t have any extraordinary or extrajudicial powers to retain people. If someone wants to leave, they can leave. Candidates sometimes call us with this story and our response is always the same: they have every right to leave when they want (as long as they fulfill their contractual obligations).

Often the manager will scrabble around, trying to cobble together internal resources to cover the loss.

Sometimes this can work very well and perhaps a restructure or reform of the department or business unit will make everyone happier – and even save a bit on payroll too.

But the reverse is also true.

Managers simply can’t imagine not having that position filled and they try anything to maintain their status quo.

They might badger their HR department to source a replacement. When that fails, either HR or the line manager comes to us.

That’s when the fun starts.

Now we are some weeks into the resignation period and the incumbent is leaving in a matter of days. Yet they may ask for a discount on fees (which we won’t do) or insist that the position be filled within a couple of weeks (despite them having tried for perhaps a month). All very entertaining to an outside observer, but less amusing up close to the action.

One antidote to all of that is the simple matter of building a talent pipeline.

This isn’t something that the HR department or the line manager has to do alone – we can help. It’s fairly easy to construct, not particularly timeconsuming to manage, but the dividends of having done it are substantial. When that shock resignation comes in, it’s fairly straightforward to pick up the talent pipeline, dust it off and see what we have. Within a few days, it is possible to be interviewing and selecting a replacement. Yes, there might be a hiatus of a couple of weeks between the departure and the new arrival, but that is much better than months – which we have seen on more than one occasion. As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is an executive search consultant who works for Horton International in Vietnam, Thailand and Laos. He can be reached at +84 8 3910 7682 or via woollacott@hortoninternational.com.

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Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 028 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

Thuan My 32 Cach Mang Thang 8, D3 2 Thao Dien, D2 Apple Authorized reseller and Premium Service Provider of Apple computers and products. Excellent service and Englishspeaking staff.

ELECTRONICS

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 028 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to refrigerators.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE AustinHome 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 028 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 028 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

CO-WORKING SPACES

Dreamplex Level 9 – 10 – 11 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, District 1 Tel: 028 7306-6880 dreamplex.co A coworking space for startup entrepreneurs, creatives, consultants and investors to work collaboratively or privately. There’s a meeting hub to connect enterprises with domestic and global investors, as well as assist with

recruitment.

The Hive Saigon 94 Xuan Thuy, District 2 Tel: 028 3620 3481 thehive.com.vn Open spaces and private offices in a three-storey building for creatives and entrepreneurs. Part of a network of coworking spaces throughout Asia.

PepperHouse 19 Hoang Sa, District 1 Tel: 028 3910-2028 pepperhouse.asia PepperHouse provides a space to stay and work in Ho Chi Minh City. Bright, open, and the perfect place to hunker down to get some work done and network.

Saigon Coworking 101 Cu Lao, Phu Nhuan District Tel: 0965 100 244 and 0902 740 106 saigoncoworking.com One of the first coworking spaces in Saigon, Saigon Coworking was founded for startups and networking for young foreign entrepreneurs. The space partners with local professionals to help with legal, financial and IT consulting. Has an onsite kitchen and green rooftop garden.

Start Saigon 18bis/14 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 1 Tel: 028 6682-8580 start-saigon.com Start Saigon is a 24/7 co-working space dedicated to information technology start-ups and entrepreneurs. With a rooftop garden, pool, fast optical-fibre internet, and a meeting room, they also host after work parties and barbecues.

Workyos Viettel Complex, Tower A 12th Floor, 285 Cach Mang Thang Tam, District 10 Tel: 028 6288-2882 workyos.com Drop in and work in one of the open spaces, or rent a desk or private office longer-term. Branding consultation available from the experienced staff. Also available are meeting and event rooms, a bar and a “relax” room.

RECRUITMENT

First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 028 3910 2080 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 / Tel: 028 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Horton International 5F, Vitic Building 6B Nguyen Thanh Y Street, D1 Tel 028 3910 7682-3 www.hortoninternational.com Established in HCMC in 2005, Horton International services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. Horton International is one of the world’s leading executive search groups with 50 offices in 30 countries. For more information, contact vietnam@hortoninternational.com.

RELOCATION AGENTS

By Wayne Captriotti

SAIGON PET

Unit 2404, 24th Floor Pearl Plaza Office Tower, 561A Dien Bien Phu Street, Ward 25, Binh Thanh District Direct: 84 8 3840 4237 http://www.crownworldwide.com Want to avoid making mistakes??

To learn how contact Crown for all your relocations needs. We provide services Internationally, locally and commercially as well as provide storage solutions long and short term.

A QUICK GUIDE TO UNDERSTANDING COMMERCIAL DOG FOOD

boarding b

It is difficult to find and feed your dog a healthy, balanced diet from commercial dog food brands in Vietnam. One reason is the lack of choice, as there are only eight nationally distributed dog food brands in Vietnam. Unfortunately, these brands lie within the economyto-mid price range categories with only a few premium brands available (although more are moving into the market in Vietnam this year).

What sets apart a premium brand is the order and quality of essential nutrients listed in the ingredients. Premium dog foods follow this order: animal proteins, fats, carbohydrates (grains) and additional supplements. The first five ingredients are important, forming the bulk volume of dog food in a package.

Essential Protein Content Animal-based protein is essential in the diet of a healthy dog. Quality sources of animal protein, such as poultry, beef, fish or pork, should be listed among the first five items of the ingredients. Avoid dog food brands that only list generic names of protein, for example, ‘meat’, ‘meat meal’ or ‘byproduct meat’. Premium brands use ‘human grade’ animal proteins that can be consumed by people without health risks.

There is Good and Bad Fat Good sources of fat are chicken fat, olive, canola, coconut, sunflower and flax oils. Ingredients should include Omega 3 and Omega 6 sources. Avoid no-name fats, ‘meat fat’, ‘poultry fat’, vegetable oils or lard.

Quality grains, not fillers Grains are not essential in the diet of a dog. Premium dog food brands contain very little grain and should not appear before protein and fat sources. If grains are listed they should not be feed-grade rice, barley or oats.

Avoid brands using excessive grains as fillers, such as ground corn or maize, corn gluten meal, wheat or gluten meal, soybean meal, corn bran and peanut, rice, soybean or oat husks.

Are fruits and vegetables required as supplements?

Although fruits and vegetables are not essential in the diet of a dog, they add vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, water, and enzymes and fibre for proper digestion. Premium dog foods may include potatoes, sweet potatoes, beets, carrots, peas, beans, pumpkin, broccoli, asparagus and spinach, or fruits like apples, blueberries, mango, papaya, cantaloupe, cranberries, pears, pineapple and bananas.

Not Required: colouring, artificial preservatives and sweeteners Premium dog food brands should not contain: Artificial Colors and Flavors: Blue 2, Red 40, Yellow 5 and 6, and other dyes Artificial Preservatives: Ethoxyquin, Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) Sweeteners: corn syrup, cane molasses, sugar, sorbitol, sucrose, fructose, glucose, ammoniated glycyrrhizin, propylene glycol, Vitamin K3 and synthetic of Vitamin K.

Wayne Capriotti, who has owned pets (dogs, cats and fish) in Vietnam for eight years, is the co-founder and publisher of Me Thu Cung (Passion for Pets), one of the first pet magazines in the country.

UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations 1st Fl, 214 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 028 3744 7102 MOVING!? www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with ware! housing, handyman, insurance & claim, ! orientation an partner career support services also availble. !"#$%&&'(!)%*#)%&&'(!+),-.)%*#)%&&'/!

0#1.!2#3-(!#4$-(!5%$,#.'/!! !6--7!8,#.%9-!/! :&%))+)9!,#!.-&#$%,-!;#.&7;+7-/! ! !"#$%&$''(")*'+,"-%,'.%*$#/*0'

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<=>=?!@!AB!!A!!CDBB!DEFG!!!!H!!!!8%&-8I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! ! <%)#+?!@!AB!!B!!CDEA!LDEM!!!!H!!!!+)5#I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! www.saigonvan.com

Santa Fe Relocation Services 8th floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 028 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com vietnam@santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around world, Santa Fe offers local & international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration & records management.

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES

Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 028 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

READY TO WEAR unisex L’Usine

151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Retro KID 345/3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 0909 168 350 Featured Street wear imported from Thailand and US as well as local designmen’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of accessories.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 028 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men’s, women’s and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

men

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 028 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

women

ER-Couture Boutique 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2411 www.er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

TAILORS

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 028 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 028 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men. Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy.

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

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ALL ABOUT THE INTERNET

T

he onset of wifi technology has been a significant benchmark in the evolution of the internet of things.

When the first version of the 802.11 wireless protocol was released in 1997, it evolved into the world’s most ubiquitous invisible omnipresent technology today.

Just think: What was life like without wifi?

Here in Vietnam, we all know too well the internet woes that we face.

Questionable cabling infrastructure, fluctuating bandwidths, ISP outages, even sharks attacking the undersea cables…

Even though these play a role in the way we experience the internet, most times, slow browsing speeds and bad reception is likely due to the quality of our home wifi networks. Although the external factors are out of our control, one thing that is in our ability to change is to improve our home networks in order to optimize our online experience and avoid frustration.

Wifi optimization and home network assessments are services that are often requested from the shop. Before you decide to take us up on those services, here are some basic, not-too-difficult DIY ways to improve your connection speeds at home:

Heed your Hardware

When we sign-up for an internet package from any of the major ISPs (Viettel, FPT, VNPT, SPT, etc.) in Vietnam, they typically provide generic routers as part of the service contract. Although free of charge, the routers are basic, mostly using older wireless technology (A, B, G, or N). The network quality is average at best - data transmission speeds are mediocre and signal strength has poor coverage. If your house covers a bit of square meterage and has multiple rooms, floors and thick walls, you’ll undoubtedly experience slow speeds in various spots around your home.

56 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Updating your router to a tri-band wireless AC router will produce noticeable changes to your network - better HD and music streaming, less video buffering and stuttering, further wifi propagation.

Recommended brands readily available in Vietnam would be Asus, TP-Link, Linksys and Unifi - do a quick Google search for reviews for models from each. Expect to pay anywhere between 1.5-4 million VND for a decent wifi router. As an aside, the new breed of routers with AX technology are due out in 2019, in case you decide to hold off.

Location, Location, Location

Now that you’ve got a decent router, you’ll need to find the perfect spot for it. Actually, let’s start by outlining the worst spots for a router, as often, ISP-installed routers are confined to an inefficient location, which is usually a corner of the house where the connection enters your home, in a closet, on the ground behind the TV cabinet, or in a closed-off room that you don’t ever use. The best spots for a router are central, open areas, free of obstructions or walls, mounted above ground.

There are a variety of free apps that can help you map the wifi signal strength at home: Wifi Analyzer (WIN and Android), Dr. Wifi (Mac OS, iOS) and Wi-Fi SweetSpots (iOS).

The Little Things Matter

Making just these changes to your router and location can already provide a vast improvement in your home network. Here are other little things you can do: • Be bandwidth-stingy: If you’ve given your wifi password to the neighbors, guests, or the lady selling coffee outside your house, change your password. They may be eating up some of your bandwidth if they remain connected to your network.

Not just speed, but also network security will also benefit.

• Kill the unconnected: If you have numerous devices (phone, tablet, computer, game consoles, smart appliances, etc.) that are connected to your network, shutdown or turn the wifi off devices that don’t need a perpetual internet connection.

• Think perpendicular: Antennas on your router - one pointing up, the other pointing sideways. This tends to direct signal better in order to maximize coverage.

• 5GHz: Most AC routers will have the option for a 5GHz network as opposed to the traditional 2.4GHz. Enabling it will give you faster transmission speeds between your router and devices. Especially useful if you mirror content to your TV. • Interfering electronics: All a wifi signal is is a radio wave. Other electronics that generate an electromagnetic signal can hamper a wifi signal: microwaves, cordless phones, TVs, amps, refrigerators, for example. As such, keeping the router away from these items can produce better results. Additionally, radio waves are also affected by metals and water, so best to also stay clear of filing cabinets or aquariums.

All the practices above are easy enough for the average human. The more technically-savvy tinkerer may want to try these methods to whisper to their wifi networks: boosting with powerline adapters, flashing DD-WRT firmware on your router, turning unused routers at home into repeaters, switching wireless channels through the router’s settings, or setting up QoS on your router.

The hope is that these tips help turn your wifi woes into wifi wonders. Just remember, slow wifi is worse than no wifi at all because it’s such a tease!

street smart

CALMETTE DISTRICT 1

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almette is a street that seems to reproduce itself as you walk down the road, heading south-west towards the Rach Ben Nghe river; one of the smaller tributaries to the Saigon River. Walking down the street there is a noticeable repetition of hardware stores dotted between small shops overflowing with mirrors, lights, fabrics and the functional fittings of every home. Intertwined among the furnishings and fixtures are the occasional eatery and coffee shop. With bikes and people surrounding the coffee shops like watering holes, the street is bursting with life.

Calmette is one of the few streets in Ho Chi Minh City that still holds a French name.

Named after the French physician, who was an important officer of the Pasteur Institute, the street recognises the significant work that Albert Calmette did to help create the tuberculosis vaccine. Calmette street is located in district one, with the end of the street making way to a bridge that holds the same name; connecting districts one and four.

What is most striking about the street of Calmette is the provision of services for local customers. Almost every shop stocks supplies for the home or office, from ceiling fans to large reams of lino to construct a canopy for the front of your own shop.

Whilst this isn’t the street for a pleasant stroll and the browsing of clothing stores, it’s a street teeming with life and the hustle and bustle of exchanges at every street corner.

169 Calmette – Marou Chocolate The top of the street houses the famous Marou, faiseurs de chocolat. With an impressive glass frontage that lures in the shopper, upon opening the door, the shop greets you with the warm smell of chocolate.

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Founded by Vincent Mourou and Samuel Maruta in 2010 during a camping trip in the Vietnamese jungle, this chocolate shop is unique in many ways. Unlike many glistening chocolatiers that re-melt industrially produced blocks of chocolate, Marou focus on the idea of ‘bean to bar’. That is, they use Vietnamese cocoa beans and combine them with the raw ingredients needed to create a bar of chocolate, here in Ho Chi Minh City. Browsing the store, there is a luxurious display of the wide range of chocolate on sale, from their single origin bars, to bars mixed with the unique flavours of chilli and sea salt. Holding chocolate tasting classes on Saturdays throughout the summer, registration information can be found on their Facebook page.

171 Calmette – Tomatito A glamourous tapas bar may seem a strange addition to the street of Calmette, yet located at the top of the street, next door to Marou is Tomatito. This fantastically colourful and inviting restaurant with an extensive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes is open from 11am to 11pm. The warm colours and inviting Spanish style interior suit a light snack, a sit-down meal, or even a casual drink among friends. And with two floors.

106 Calmette – Cua Hang My Huyen Florist Stumbling across this beautiful florist located in the middle of the street, with an abundance of impressive floral displays in the shop window, it provides a remarkable sight when walking past. Providing flowers for a range of occasions, or simply because, this small shop is a botanic haven amongst the busy street. As with many of the shops on Calmette, they’re targeted towards the local Vietnamese customer, and so websites

and Facebook pages are often absent for these small businesses. Instead, you’re best equipped to wander the road and pop into the shops that take your fancy or suit your buying needs.

107 and 112 Calmette - Lighting stores The shining, bright lights in an array of colours make for easy identification of the lighting shops on Calmette. There are a few shops selling a variety of light fittings, bulbs and shades on this street, so if home lighting is what you require, finding everything you’re looking for should not be difficult.

The striking display of precariously hanging lights from all available ceiling space is a peculiar yet unsurprising sight to behold, only adding to the chaotic charm of the row of storefronts.

132 Calmette – Marcel Gourmet Burger The small frontage of this restaurant could be easily overlooked, yet the gleaming white tiles providing a background for the restaurant’s name, ensure you don’t miss this compact yet brilliant burger place. Open from 12pm to 10pm, Tuesday to Sunday, Marcel Gourmet Burger provides a selection of burgers accompanied with fries, and a variety of sides either to eat in or take away.

The narrow restaurant has a view into the kitchen, where food is quickly prepared.

Decorated with greenery and plants along one of the inside walls, this unassuming burger restaurant is the perfect spot for a quick meal.

Hardware Stores To name a singular hardware store would be a challenge of its own, when heading down the street you are guaranteed to pass a jumble of around ten of them. With ageing store fronts and gleaming metal on

display, it may initially appear difficult to find the parts you are looking for. Resembling an Aladdin’s cave of metal, venturing into these well-stocked shops and speaking with the owners will be sure to help you find what you’re looking for.

The charm of this nuanced street is held in the discoveries you make when walking down it. The jumble of aged, family-owned shops selling practical supplies for building, painting, decorating and the home lie between chain coffee shops and small restaurants. For many of these places little research can be done online, and so Calmette is worth the venture on foot. That is, if you know what you’re looking for.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 59

hancock in se asia

ALL GOING ON A SUMMER HOLIDAY

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ell itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s summer holidays yet again and as usual the part of the city where I live has emptied as thousands of expats head home to see family and friends. Each year I say I will do the same but each year everything conspires against me to prevent it. I am, as usual, here in District 2 with about 75% of my friends absent. Life is a lot quieter than normal, without the benefit of the massive drop in traffic, which Tet affords. Okay, there is no school traffic which makes a difference in D2, but even this is having less and less of an impact as thousands of Korean and Vietnamese move into the new developments, each with their trusty Chelsea tractor.

I did however manage to get away for a weekend in Hue, which was rather excellent. I have been before but it is always good to get away from the smog and noise. Hue is a terrific place for a weekend getaway with plenty of flights at reasonable prices. Like everywhere else in Vietnam it appears to be somewhat reinventing itself. I was last there just 15 months ago, but the changes are quite dramatic.

A few high rises have been added to the skyline and many trendy new bars, clubs and restaurants have opened.

The blocks of pedestrianised streets in 60 AsiaLIFE HCMC

the town centre are buzzing at night as hundreds of mainly locals come out to play.

It was exacerbated this time by the FIFA World Cup. On the Friday night France was playing Uruguay and the locals were massively behind France, the victors. Each time they attacked, the streets erupted in loud cheers and screams. I love the way the Vietnamese get so excited by football.

Even a throw-in is greeted with squeals of delight.

I found a funky little burger bar-cumbeer-den. The 1950/60s Americana decor suited the place completely and the owner, throwing his weight behind Les Bleus, offered free Ricards all round each time they scored. We all got another one when the final whistle went. It was a great atmosphere with an excellent mix of Europeans and Locals.

I enjoyed waking early and having breakfast overlooking the very beautiful Perfume River. I would like to return sometime when the autumn blossoms float down the river and fill the air in the city with the heady aromas that give the river its rather romantic name. I went for a boat trip on the Saturday morning down to the Thien Mu Pagoda. This was a really pleasant way to start the day. I visited the Pagoda before when it was incredibly crowded, this time it was quiet. Arriving just in time to hear the monks begin chanting, it was quite special

to sit in the gardens with them as an aural backdrop.

With temperatures soaring to well over 40 degrees I managed the Tombs of Khai Dinh and Minh Mang, but had to call it day after lunch. I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a step left in me and for the second time in just over a year I had managed to come to Hue and not visit the Citadel. I promise next time, I will do that and that alone.

It really was a great weekend away and I look forward to doing a lot more short hops like this. All too soon I was back in the chaos of the place I call home.

Following a successful 25-year career as a singer/ songwriter/musician, Keith pulled out of the rat race and moved to Southeast Asia in 2008. First living in Thailand, then Cambodia and Ho Chi Minh City since 2013. www.inseasia.com

AUDIUM ARMY

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n this month’s Community Focus column, we are continuing the theme of philanthropy, or the giving of one’s time, money, reputation or voice for social good.

Ben Mawdsley came to Vietnam on his way to Japan where he planned to join the United Nations Development Programme. He had intended to stay a month, complete his TEFL qualification before moving on, but like so many others he was drawn by the country and its people and decided to stay. This was March 2016.

Ben quickly found work with a chain of schools and during a team building event asked the CEO what the school was doing for social welfare and community development.

The answer was little more than offering a handful of scholarships, and this inspired Ben to do something more meaningful during his stay in Vietnam.

At this time, he was already involved with a local community group run by one of his students, a catholic priest who supported ethnic minorities through university in Ho Chi Minh City. The priest had no money to pay for English lessons, so Ben volunteered to teach them for two hours each Sunday. They were the best students he ever had and improved rapidly.

As their English abilities grew, Ben challenged them to go out in to their communities and make a presentation of an

issue they faced, and a solution to improve it. For each successful presentation, Ben promised them one million VND towards putting the solution in to practice. The students jumped at the opportunity and were quickly working on their goals.

Soon the students started to organise food drives to help the hungry, and as word spread the Sunday classes grew from six to more than 50, bringing even more who wanted to be involved in Ben’s projects. With his support, the students called themselves Audium Army and started to receive donations from the local community to help fund their projects.

Audium Army now do a monthly food drive on a Saturday night. With support from local restaurants such as Union Jack’s Fish & Chips, they are giving more than 500 bags of food and clothes each time they go out. They deliver around hospitals where people visiting patients are often forced to sleep outside, and a bag of food and some extra warmth is a welcome gift.

The team from Audium regularly visit orphanages where they audit what is needed, buy it and then deliver to those who need it most. The experience can be traumatic for some, but the joy on people’s faces when someone else remembers their plight makes it all worthwhile. It’s stories and memories like this that bring the commitment, Ben explains.

It’s hard to turn your back on other’s suffering.

And that’s the root of philanthropy.

The next fundraiser event for Audium is at Cuba la Casa del Mojito on August 18th. Check out the Helping Hand Saigon Facebook page for more details. https://www.facebook.com/ HelpingHandSaigon.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 61

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