AsiaLIFE Vietnam May 2018

AsiaLIFE Media Vol. 122

SENSATIONAL SAIGON ART BOOK THE STORY OF VIETNAM’S HOA PEOPLE IN DENFENCE OF VINH INFORMATION AND COMMUNICATIONS PUBLISHING HOUSE

CAMBODIA // THAILAND // VIETNAM

MAY 2018 AsiaLIFE Media Vol. 122

VOLUME 122 This month's cover

|MAY 2018

Photography: Romain Garrigue SENSATIONAL SAIGON ART BOOK THE STORY OF VIETNAM’S HOA PEOPLE IN DENFENCE OF VINH INFORMATION AND COMMUNICATIONS PUBLISHING HOUSE

for more news and events, features, restaurant reviews and video, visit:

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www.AsiaLIFEmagazine.com For advertising and marketing enquiries please contact: +84 163 5077 530 / +84 903 325 543 or adsales@asialifehcmc.com Director Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialifemagazine.com Editorial Director Barbara Adam barbara.adam@asialifemagazine.com

Art Director Thang Pham L.C. leo@asialifemagazine.com Photo Editor Romain Garrigue rgarrigue.contact@gmail.com

FRONT

Commercial Director

Editor Peter Cornish peter.cornish@asialifemagazine.com

Nguyen Kim Hanh kimhanh@asialifehcmc.com

Production Manager Hoa Nguyen nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com

Contributors Lauren Cameron Tristan Ngo Reem Mehanna Shannon Brown Annigje Jacobs Yendy Tsang

FOOD & DRINK

EVENTS ............................................................... 05 ASIALIFE’S PICKS: ART GALLERIES ................ 06 Q&A Tanya Meftah . . ...................................................... 10 WHAT’S NEW IN SAIGON............................. 12 BUSINESS VIEW.................................................. 13 SAIGON PROFILES.. ........................................... 14 TRENDING.......................................................... 15

THE YORKSHIRE BLADE

C OV E R STO RY

Well-tr avelled bites............................................ 4 1

WINNING AT WINE

An over view of Saigon’s wine scene.............. 16

F E AT U R E S SENSATIONAL SAIGON

A new ar t book by a Br itish ar tist.................. 2 2

Pasta...................................................................... 3 6

LOCAL EATS

Mon an duong pho (Street food street).......... 3 7

ZUZU

A hidden gem of a cafe..................................... 3 8

CORK & FORK

Upmar ket wine bar.. ........................................... 3 9

JARDIN DES SENS

Fine French dining.............................................. 4 0

JOURNEYS SANDWICH BISTRO

STYLE & DESIGN AZERAI CAN THO

Stunning new resor t in the Mekong Delta.... 4 2

SINHTOLINA

Bohemian chic fashion....................................... 4 4

NOT SO DIRTY DANCING

One of the hottest new trends in town........ 2 4

THE STORY OF VIETNAM’S HOA PEOPLE

A little look at Saigon’s Chinese community. 2 6

IB EXTENDED ESSAY

Final year International Baccalaureate............ 2 8

HEALTH & WELLNESS What’s ever yone laughing about?................... 3 0

T R AV E L A BONDING GETAWAY

A fiercesome fitness retreat in Ho Tram.. ...... 3 2

IN DEFENCE OF VINH

Sticking up for a maligned destination........... 3 4 4 AsiaLIFE HCMC

COLUMNS IMBIBE ............................................................................. 5 2 FITNESS .......................................................................... 5 4 EDUCATION HUB .................................................... 5 6 PERSONAL FINANCE ............................................. 5 7 PEOPLE MATTER ....................................................... 5 8 CRAFT SAIGON ........................................................ 5 9 TECH AND THE CITY ............................................. 6 0 FILMFIX ........................................................................... 6 2 TALES OF A GECKOPHOBE ................................ 6 3 HANCOCK IN SE ASIA .......................................... 6 4 COMMUNITY FOCUS ............................................ 6 5 PUB QUIZ ..................................................................... 6 6

2 – /0 7 6 /0 7

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EVENTS

12 MAY 10am

Colour Me Run @Phu My Hung, D7 Entry: VND600,000 for adults; VND350,0000 for children Billed as Vietnam’s most colourful festival, the Colour Me Run is a fun-filled day of running, music, food and drinks. The 5km run is untimed because the race is all about starting out in white and ending doused in colour. colormerun.vn

19 MAY 2pm-6pm

Summer Bazaar @BP Compound Sports Club Entry: $Free Support underprivileged kids by shopping at Make a Small Difference’s Summer Bazaar, which will have many vendors, kids activities, food and drinks, and a raffle. make-a-small-difference.com

Saigon Players’ Private Lives by Noel Coward @Hotel Equatorial Entry: VND300,000 Dress up in 1930s gear for an evening of music, theatre and a few surprises. The highlight of the night will be the Saigon Players’ production of Noel Coward’s ‘Private Lives’, a hilarious adult comedy directed by Emily Huckson. fb.com/events/1057188561096812

Taco Loco @Saigon Outcast

23-26 MAY 6.30pm

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Celebrate the beauty of the taco at Saigon Outcast’s Taco Fest 2018, featuring the best food vendors, music, and entertainment for a truly taco-rific day fb.com/ events/357771411374000

26 MAY 2pm

This month AsiaLIFE asked Vietnam-based artist Bridget March to name her favourite art galleries in Ho Chi Minh City. Here’s her selection. (And you can read more about Bridget on page 22.)

APRICOT GALLERY This downtown gallery has five spacious floors of artworks by Vietnamese artists in a wide variety of styles, from oil on canvas to lacquer.

The art on display showcases the work of more than 65 artists, ranging from masters to young up-and-coming artists.

Take the lift to the top floor and slowly work your way down.

There will be staff nearby to answer any questions you have.

Each floor has one or two seating areas, with tables filled with art books. If you are into art, you could easily while away several hours here.

50 - 52 Mac Thi Buoi, District 1 www.apricotgallery.com.vn

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BEN THANH ART GALLERY This collection of art by more than 40 Vietnamese artists, both emerging and established, is just half a block from Nguyen Hue walking street in Ho Chi Minh City’s central business district.

The gallery was founded in 1999, and since then it has sold artworks to many of the country’s luxury hotels, including the Grand Ho Tram Strip and the Hyatt Regency Danang.

The works on display at the threestorey gallery include some very large pieces, a small selection of sculptures and a selection of original propaganda posters from the 1960s.

Later this month the gallery will hold an exhibition of propaganda art in Singapore.

7 Nguyen Thiep, District 1 benthanhart.com.

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY This gallery in District 1, founded in 2009, supports the work of young, emerging and mid-career Vietnamese artists working in painting, sculpture and mixed media.

To help develop a vibrant domestic art scene in Vietnam, Craig Thomson Gallery regularly hosts exhibitions of young Vietnamese artists.

Gallery founder Craig Thomas has lived and worked in Vietnam since 1995, and has mentored a number of promising Saigonbased artists.

The gallery is open from 11am to 6pm Monday to Saturday and midday to 5pm on Sundays. Other times by appointment.

27i Tran Nhat Duat, District 1 cthomasgallery.com.

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SALON SAIGON Hidden down a leafy hem in District 3, Salon Saigon hosts art exhibitions, performances, conferences screenings and educational programmes.

There is also a library of Vietnamese and Asian culture and contemporary creation, with books in French, English and Vietnamese. The library is open on Tuesdays, and other times by appointment only.

The salon was founded by art collector John Tue Nguyen and is directed by French-Vietnamese contemporary visual artist Sandrine Llouquet.

Salon Saigon is open from 9am to midday and 1pm to 6pm Tuesday to Saturday. Entry is VND80,000.

6D Ngo Thoi Nhiem, District 3 www.salonsaigon.com.

THE FACTORY CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTRE The first purpose-built contemporary arts centre in Vietnam, The Factory in District 2’s Thao Dien is a creative hub where people can work as well as showcase their talents.

The centre has a programme of curated exhibitions, workshops, live arts, talks and film screenings. It aims to assist artists in their search for resource, visibility and support.

The Factory, established in 2016, also has a bar/lounge and an onsite cafe.

The centre is closed on Mondays.

15 Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien, District 2 factoryartscentre.com.

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Q&A

SUSTAINABILITY CONSULTANT

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Peter Cornish talks urban gardening and sustainability with Tanya Meftah.

Photo by Romain Garrigue.

You first came to Vietnam to study but returned to take on the role of MD with local nonprofit, Smile Group. Can you explain about the work you were doing with them?

We were developing programmes to help empower children that are victims of HIV. When I saw the need for continuity with these programmes for the older (18 +) children, I and one of Smile Group founders, Leslie Wiener, had the idea to teach the kids how to build urban gardens as a possible career option.

You’re recognised as one of the pioneers of the growing environmental permaculture movement in Vietnam. How do you think this movement has progressed in recent years, and what direction do you think it is headed?

Since the inception of GYC (the Green Youth Collective), I have watched tons of new small urban gardening businesses “sprout” up along with some more general environmental sustainability movements. I think that sustainability is growing amongst young people as something they find very important.

It’s very exciting to see it become such a widespread movement over a short time.

I think, following the trends of the world, environmental sustainability will be at the forefront in business in Ho Chi Minh City in the next few years.

In 2013 you co-founded the Green Youth Collective, one of HCMC’s first urban garden initiatives. What was your vision for GYC when you started it and what are they doing now?

My vision for GYC was twofold. The first vision was to create a collective of environmentally minded people and to be a resource to empower those who were interested. Secondly, we wanted to make urban gardening a respectable and viable business opportunity.

We wanted to share this opportunity with street youth in particular, and help

provide them with careers related to urban sustainability. We wanted to push back on the negative view that “farming is for the poor” by demonstrating how empowering a permaculture lifestyle can be in many ways.

The three core permaculture ethics are described as ‘people care, earth care and create surplus’. Can you explain this means and how you put this in to practice with the projects you work on?

The core permaculture ethics refer to the idea that everything is connected.

You cannot have one without the other.

Permaculture design is more of a framework in which to approach things, whether it’s the flow of your new apartment or building a eco village with friends.

You must incorporate the care of the community (people care) and the care of our earth and all its living beings. In terms of creating surplus- this refers to energy created and used when doing a single thing.

We want to create extra energy, whether it’s designing your garden beds higher so you do not have to use as much back muscle to take care it, or chop and drop composting in your beds so you do not have to spend lots of time constantly applying fertiliser- I am constantly thinking about how to create these connections in my designs.

How to reduce input while maximising onput!

Sustainability isn’t just a series of actions, it’s a form of consciousness

More recently you have co-founded Wholistik, a consultancy group that helps clients design sustainable permaculture and urban gardening systems.

Can you explain what this means and share some of the

projects you have worked on?

Wholistik is my new consultant company where we help our clients set up closed loop systems that create positive energy output.

“Wholistik” is a play on the words whole and holistic because we like to look at the whole picture and target all areas to create holistic systems that consider all aspects.

We believe that by targeting all areas as opposed to one isolated area, such as waste management, we can create a culture of caring. Once we do that, the systems will begin to sustain themselves and a few years down the line, they will work for you, without needing much maintenance.

We also place a high emphasis on education, working with our clients and the community to share and exchange knowledge so we all can be empowered.

Some of my most recent projects were a food forest and permaculture landscape design in the USA where I placed an emphasis on native plant restoration, mushroom inoculation, food forest design and implementation, low use water systems working with the contour of the land, path making, and building spaces for the client to relax in nature.

My current large project is working with International School of Ho Chi Minh City who have hired me to come in and set up a large scale holistic system. This includes growing food, developing comprehensive waste programmes, getting students to use their hands to build connections with nature, it’s a full integration into the curriculum and lifestyle at ISHCMC.

As the urban gardening movement continues to grow, what advice would you give to people wanting to get involved in sustainability?

Sustainability isn’t just a series of actions, it’s a form of consciousness.

It’s great that so many people are passionate for the environment, but real steps need to be taken and a lot of them are not easy. Truly developing a sustainable system takes so much time, energy and effort. It’s not just avoiding plastic and turning off your lights, its developing a lifestyle that is now enhancing the environment rather than extracting from it.

To do that we (as a human race) would have to make major changes to our way of living. This is challenging. I think if you are interested in sustainability one of the first things to do is take time to build something.

See how long it takes, how hard it really is.

Then decide if you want to be sustainable.

For more details about Tanya’s work, or to contact her, please visit www. wholistikpermaculture.org.

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DRAGONFLY EDUCATION

AZABU SABO JAPANESE ICE CREAM Sparkling new cafe in Thao Dien serving Hokkaido ice cream.

97A Thao Dien, D2 fb.com/AzabuSaboVietnam.

DRAMA CLASSES Acting and musical theatre classes for children and young people, as well as corporate training, workshops for schools and drama parties, all run by professionally trained actors and facilitators. fb.com/dragonflyvietnamed.

INTER NOS DINING AND GRILL RESTAURANT ITALIAN RESTAURANT

SHAMROCK SAIGON

A stylish new look and a new location for a Thao Dien favourite, Inter Nos (Latin for “between us”), with a child-friendly area, a bar area and a private lounge.

Taking the craic to downtown Saigon, a new Irish pub with a great selection of draught beers and whiskies. Slainte!

230 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 fb.com/internosrestaurant.

IRISH PUB

19 Thai Van Lung, D1 fb.com/Shamrocksaigon.

GREEN DOMINO

TAVERNA GREEK AND TURKISH RESTAURANT

SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING

Friendly staff, big portions and very tasty Greek and Turkish food, including all-time favourites lamb kleftika, moussaka, soutzuokakia and mezze platters.

Food packaging that is fully biodegradable within 45 days. A variety of makes and models are availble, including cups, and several types of takeaway containers.

SC 3-1 My Khang, 307 Nguyen Luong Bang Street, Tan Phu Ward, District 7 fb.com/taverna.greekturkishrestaurant.

94 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, District 2 fb.com/Green-Dominos-198738374220810.

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BUSINESS VIEW NEWS

IN BRIEF GROWTH FORECAST STRONG Vietnam’s economy is expected to grow by 7.1% this year before easing to 6.8% next year, according to the latest forecast by the Asian Development Bank (ADB).

Growth will be fuelled by increasing exports, rising domestic consumption, strong foreign investment, and a strengthening agriculture sector, the ADB’s report said.

The ADB forecast inflation will continue to edge upwards, reaching 3.7% this year and 4% in 2019.

FUEL TAX HIKE FUEL taxes will rise in July to reduce pollution and help the government pay down debt, Vietnam’s Finance Ministry announced last month.

The environmental tax on gasoline will rise by 33% to VND4,000/litre, Tuoi Tre reported, citing a government statement.

Taxes on diesel, coal and lubricants will also be increased, although the government has not said by how much, as part of the government’s strategy to limit the use of products that contribute to pollution, “The planned tax hike is part of a move to

restructure the state budget with an aim to ensure the safety and stability of the national finance system,” Deputy Finance Minister Vu Thi Mai said.

Economists warned that higher input costs would put upward pressure on inflation.

“The tax hike will result in higher input costs for enterprises, with those operating in the transport and logistics industry being hurt first,” said Can Van Luc, an economist with the Bank for Investment and Development of Vietnam.

UNESCO RECOGNITION Cao Bang Geopark in the northeastern province of Cao Bang has been added to the list of UNESCO Global Network of National Geoparks, it was announced last month.

The title is awarded to geographical areas where sites and landscapes of international geological significance are rich in scientific, educational, archaeological, historical and cultural values as well as biological diversity.

The geopark, the second UNESCOrecognised park in Vietnam, covers 3,000 square kilometers and contains mountains, forests, five major river systems and 47 lakes.

ANCIENT TREASURES DISCOVERED Archaeologists excavating the Thang Long Royal Citadel in Hanoi have unearthed colourful dragon-shaped tiles dating back to the Early Le Dynasty (980-1009).

The dig has found relics dating back to the eighth century, including bricks and tiles decorated with dragons, phoenixes and lotus flowers, as well as an iron canon from the Nguyen Dynasty (1802-1945).

The latest updates from the archaeological site were contained in the archaeologists’ annual report, released last month.

AIRPORT TO EXPAND A NEW terminal will be built south of Ho Chi Minh City’s Tan Son Nhat International Airport to increase the airport’s capacity.

Prime Minister Nguyen Xuan Phuc last month gave the green light to the expansion plan put forward by ADPi Engineering, a French airport engineering company.

Under the proposal, a new 200,000 square meter terminal capable of handling 20 million passengers a year will be built at an estimated cost of VND18 trillion (US$792.95

million), Tuoi Tre reported.

Once the new terminal is complete, Tan Son Nhat International Airport will be able to handle nearly 60 million passengers a year.

About 36 million passengers passed through Tan Son Nhat last year, putting the airport at 144%of its capacity.

A new airport, Long Thanh International Airport, to be built in the neighboring province of Dong Nai is also expected to ease the strain on Tan Son Nhat Airport.

MUSIC RESEARCH ROOM A research room for traditional Vietnamese music will open in the Ho Chi Minh City General Sciences Library.

It will house hundreds of books, documents, dictionaries, recordings and instruments, all donated by the late professor Tran Van Khe, a world-renowned ethnomusicologist and the first Vietnamese person to earn a doctoral degree in music.

Professor Khe also taught at France’s Sorbonne University and was a member of UNESCO’s International Council of Music.

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BRANDING EXPERT MATT MILLARD

By Barbara Adam & Yendy Tsang.

Photo supplied.

T

he key to branding is enriching lives through the brand experience. That’s the bottom line for Matt Millard, a former expat brat who found his true calling in Vietnam and is now managing director of Purple Asia.

This is Matt’s strategy, no matter whether he’s working with a five-star resort, a brand of tea or a charity.

Matt has been heading up his Ho Chi Minh City-based marketing and branding company for 16 years, mostly representing international clients, including Unilever, Diageo, HarleyDavidson, Exotissimo, Apple Tree Group, Johnnie Walker and a string of high-end hotel chains.

Big Beginnings

International logistics company DHL was one of Matt’s first big customers. He was brought on board in 2003 to roll out their new branding in Vietnam. Their new logo proved challenging from a Vietnamese perspective, Matt said, as it was very similar to the red and yellow former South Vietnam flag and needed to be approved before it could be displayed above their downtown depot, directly opposite the 14 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Ministry of Culture on Dong Khoi Street.

Another success story Matt tells is the rebranding Purple Asia did for the Pullman Saigon Centre’s flagship restaurant, Cobalt.

The restaurant is now the well-known Mad Cow Wine and Grill, represented by Maddie, a suitably eccentric and windswept highland cow, and the tagline “mad about wine, serious about food”.

The campaign, and the success of the rebranded restaurant, “really changed the atmosphere and morale at the hotel”, Matt said. “We’re now looking at rolling that brand out in seven countries in Southeast Asia.”

Matt said when his team is called in to work up a branding strategy, they delve into every facet of the business, and the resulting campaign may well change the way the company operates.

VinaLiving was one of the first brands Purple Asia created, Matt said. The client was VinaCapital, one of Vietnam’s biggest investment management and real estate development firms.

Lifestyle Blueprint

To create the brand, Matt and his team looked

deeply into “how Vietnamese people live their lives in a home”.

The Vietnamese lifestyle revolves around food and family, he said, and this needed to be reflected in the branding ... and the product.

Purple Asia created a blueprint for the ideal Vietnamese lifestyle, which is still used across the VinaLiving residental portfolio, from their five-star developments to affordable townhouses in Nha Be District.

“That blueprint still applies to everything they do,” he said. “From the architects, interior design teams, sales and marketing and how they talk to their customers.”

Same Same

Matt said he didn’t believe there was a significant difference between the Vietnamese market and other markets when it came to branding.

“Obviously consumers are different everywhere,” he said. “But the relationship between product and customer and the discussion of marketing and branding are fundamentally the same.”

In all markets, consumers are bombarded by images every day, and everyone has the

problem of more choice and less time than ever before, he said. At Purple Asia, the team focuses on creating “experiences” that resonate with the market.

Matt said he didn’t have many Vietnamese clients, possibly because the domestic market doesn’t yet full understand what branding is.

“They know they need a brand but they think it’s a logo and they think it’s cheap, and they don’t tend to be fully invested in the whole process,” he said.

Matt was born in the UK and was relocated to Singapore at just three months of age. He spent half of his childhood abroad and half back in Old Blighty. When he turned 18 his father sent him off to have his character built by working on a bridge project across the Kinabatangan River in Sabah in Malaysia.

Character suitably built, Matt spent time in Hong Kong, Malaysia, Thailand and London before eventually settling in Thailand, where he set up a travel agency, aged 24.

UNDERGROUND SAIGON PLANS Vast underground developments are planned in three locations in Ho Chi Minh City, the municipal government has announced.

Five levels of underground development are planned, which will include trade and service centres, parking and a metro system, Tuoi Tre News reported last month. The underground developments are planned under the city’s downtown area, under Tan Son Nhat airport and under the Thu Thiem New Urban Area.

The first plan to be prepared will be for the 930-hectare downtown area and the Thu Thiem zone, city leaders said.

CURRENCY FRAUD ARRESTS Two African men and a naturalised Vietnamese citizen were arrested last month after being accused of running an elaborate currency swindle.

The three men, one of which is a retired Vietnamese team footballer, tricked a 42-year-old woman from Can Tho into giving them US$43,000 to help them “restore” $1.4 million worth of American currency shipped to Vietnam.

According to police, the woman was tricked into paying for a special liquid that would transform blank notes into US$100 notes. Two of the suspects were originally from the African nation of Cameroon, and the third is from Nigeria.

New Opportunities The travel agency was hit hard by the Asian financial crisis of 1997, and two years later Matt decided to join his brother, who was working in Vietnam, which was just opening up to inbound tourism.

Matt found a job with a travel agency marketing Vietnam as a destination. “I was running around the world telling everyone how wonderful Vietnam is,” he said. “Until I discovered I wasn’t very good at working for other people.”

Matt’s twin daughters were born in 2002, the same year he founded Purple Asia and became his own boss.

Purple Asia now has about 20 staff working in the fields of brand identity, brand experience design, public relations, marketing communications and packaging design.

The beauty of his current job, Matt said, was that it suited his love of travel and his desire for new challenges.

“It’s very interesting,” he said “It’s like I’m like getting a new job every day.”

This “new job every day” gig also suits Matt’s other passion: motorbikes. He has “a small stable” of bikes, and doesn’t think anything of zooming up to the Cat Tien National Park for a morning’s adventure.

He’s even built his own custom cafe racer, built around a Hanoi police bike.

So if you can’t find Matt in the office, you’ll find him on a motorbike somewhere, either in Australia, Europe or possibly halfway up the highest pass in the Himalayas.

VUNG TAU FERRY SINKS An express boat traveling from Vung Tau to Ho Chi Minh City sank last month, after reportedly hitting an object in the water.

The 42 passengers on board GreenlinesDP Company express boat C3 were safely brought ashore, after the boat started sinking on approach to the Tac Suat Station in Can Gio District, Tuoi Tre News reported.

The boat was traveling on the new Ho Chi Minh City-Can Gio-Vung Tau express boat route, which was put into operation on February 10.

Investigations into the sinking are continuing.

THOUSANDS OF CARS RECALLED Mercedes-Benz and Audi have recalled thousands of cars sold in Vietnam between 2014 and 2017.

German carmaker Mercedes-Benz recalled more than 3,600 cars with a fault in the ignition system that could ignite a fire in the car.

The problem can be fixed within an hour with the installation of a fuse box to prevent circuit overload.

Audi, meanwhile, recalled 89 cars with substandard glue used to affix chrome trims on the car doors.

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Barbara Adam takes a look at Vietnam’s burgeoning wine sector.

Photos by Romain Garrigue.

M

ore and more Vietnamese are becoming interested in the wonderful world of wines, with is great news for wine lovers in Ho Chi Minh City, as the increased demand has resulted in a greater availability of wine from all over the world.

“I think the market is still being driven by tourism and expats,” said sommelier Jim Cawood, owner and manager of Lubu restaurant in Thao Dien. “But it’s changing, and the most interesting growth segment of the market is Vietnamese women.”

It’s young professional women like Pham Luong Bich Van who are the new generation of Vietnamese wine drinkers.

Van is in her mid-30s, with a senior position in supply chain management at an international consumer goods company. As is usual for a single Vietnamese woman, Van lives at home with her parents.

Van’s father, a former teacher who once worked with US forces, began educating her about wine when she was just a teenager, partly to share his passion, but also to make sure that boys wouldn’t be able to get her drunk and take advantage of her.

It’s Sexy

Her interest in wine developed further while studying in New Zealand. “I like the way it’s poured into the glass,” she said.

“It’s sexy.”

Van regularly winds down from a stressful week at work with a few glasses of wine, and spends her vacation time exploring some of the world’s most

magnificent wine-producing countries, such as Italy and New Zealand.

Lubu’s Jim says the Vans of Vietnam are a key growth segment in the Vietnamese wine market.

“Young Vietnamese women see drinking wine as a sophisticated thing to do,” he said.

“Vietnamese women will never be massive drinkers, they’re never going to go out to a bia hoi and smash bottles of whiskey. But after work, in their office wear, they like to get together with friends and have a glass of wine.”

Even though Jim acknowledges Vietnamese women will never be copious drinkers, they are more open to learning about wine.

Women A Key Market

“Women in general don’t suffer the need to be experts at everything,” he said. “They’re quite happy to be introduced to new things.

Men want to be experts. They don’t want to be told anything, and they especially don’t want to be told anything by Vietnamese staff.”

Jim has noticed a lot of changes in the 17 years he’s been involved in the Vietnamese wine industry. When he first arrived, the only wines that were available were French wines and “generic Australian wines”.

Nowadays, he estimates Chilean wine is the biggest seller in Vietnam, by volume and value, followed by France, with Australian and Italian wines vying for third spot.

“For the size of the market here, we have a really good selection,” he said.

One of the reasons Chilean wine sells so well in Vietnam is that imports from Chile attract less tax because of a free trade agreement between the two countries.

A Special Consumption Tax on alcoholic beverages imported into Vietnam was introduced in 2016. The tax increased twice, the last time in January this year, taking the import tax on wine to 35%. Wine imports also attract 50% import tax and VAT of 10%.

Australian wines may become cheaper in coming years, said Andy Wall, Managing Director of Rada Vietnam, which imports Australian wine. Australia and Vietnam have both signed the Trans Pacific Partnership trade agreement, which will result in a number of import taxes being reduced. However, the timing for the tax cuts is yet to be determined.

Thirsty Nation

The Vietnamese have long been known as big drinkers. Vietnam consumed 3.92 billion litres of alcohol in 2016, ranking as the 16th largest alcoholic beverage consuming countries in the world, according to a report published by Dezan Shira and Associates last year, citing Ministry of Industry and Trade figures. But of the alcohol consumed, nearly 97% was beer.

Even so, Vietnam’s wine market is full of potential.

“The Vietnamese industry is probably one of the most interesting in Southeast Asia,” Lubu’s Jim said. “We have a large population, an increasingly wealthy population and only minor issues with AsiaLIFE HCMC 17

18 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Women in general don’t suffer the need to be experts at everything.

They’re quite happy to be introduced to new things.

(alcohol being considered one of the) social evils.”

The Vietnamese market is also relatively homogenous, so when a trend springs up, everyone is on to it, he said.

Alfredo de la Casa is another Saigonbased wine expert, and author of Vietnamese Food and Wine Pairing, available on Amazon.

His view is that while some things in the Vietnamese wine sector have changed, some things have not.

“Now there are more Italian, Spanish and Portuguese wines available as independent importers are bringing them and people are a bit too tired of (wines from) France and Chile,” he said. “Prices keep increasing due to tax and will continue to do so, sadly.”

Aspirational Drink

Jim and Alfredo agreed that wine remains an “aspirational drink” in Vietnam.

“There’s been no change in the local taste about wine: rich Vietnamese drink wine as a status symbol, they know almost nothing about wine, as long as it’s expensive they like it,” Alfredo said. “However there is an emerging middle class who want to discover, learn and enjoy wine, and they are open to experiment and try.”

One of the quirks of the Vietnamese market is that some Vietnamese think the heavier the bottle, the better the wine. And so wine with deep “punts” (the dent in the bottom of the bottle) are popular, no matter the style or country of origin.

For those serious about their wines, all the experts agree that there are challenges to enjoying a tipple in Vietnam. One of which is the weather.

Wine needs to kept at a certain temperature to avoid it spoiling. Most specialist wine shops ensure their wine is kept in the correct conditions while being imported and stored in their warehouse, and in their retail space. Wine shops should

feel deliciously cool when you walk in.

Maturing Market

An indication of the maturity of the Vietnamese market is the country’s participation in a growing number of international food and wine competitions.

Three years ago, Sopexa, a French food, wine and lifestyle agency, relaunched a competition to find the best sommelier in French wines in Asia.

Nguyen Khac Huy took out the 2017 Vietnam Best Sommelier Competition in French Wines. He and runner-up Nguyen Thanh Tuyen, sometimes known as Elvis, represented Vietnam in the Asia final of the competition in Taipei last December.

Huy is a former employee of Lubu, and Elvis is the current restaurant manager and sommelier, and Jim says he is incredibly proud of both of them.

This year Huy was a judge for the first Bocuse d’Or competition to be held in Vietnam. This culinary competition requires contestants to create two French dishes that also represent the home country of the competitor.

Chef Daniel Nguyen won the competition, held in Ho Chi Minh City in early March. He will represent Vietnam at the Bocuse d’Or Asia-Pacific on May 8 and 9 in Guangzhou in China, and if he places in the top five he will represent his country again in January next year at the grand final in Lyon in France.

Making The Most of It

So how do you take advantage of Ho Chi Minh City’s world of wine?

First, visit the websites of the city’s major wine suppliers and sign up for their newsletters. The Warehouse, Red Apron, Wine Embassy, Rada Vietnam and discoverspanishwines.com all regularly host

wine tastings and organise wine pairing dinners, often in partnership with some of the city’s best restaurants.

Some of the wine pairing dinners in town are exceptional value, as well as a very interesting deep dive into wines. There are also a number of regular food and wine events, such as the New Zealand Food and Wine Festival and the Taste of Australia wine events.

Wine Appreciation

Wine expert, Huy, the reining champion of the Vietnam Best Sommelier and business development manager at Red Apron recommends finding -- or organising -- a group of people for wine appreciation nights.

“If you’re not looking to get a certificate, but just learn more about wines, wine appreciation events are great,” Huy said.

If he was helping organise such an event, he said, he’d start with an overview of the different type of wine varieties.

“In white wines, there’s light and dry wines, like sauvignon blanc; buttery and creamy, like chardonnay; and full-bodied and sweet,” he said. “You need to taste them all to find out what you like.”

The second part of the session could focus on red wine varieties, starting with something light like pinot noir, moving onto a merlot and finishing with a big and bold Australian shiraz and then a cabinet sauvignon.

That would be the introductory event, Huy said, which would be followed by sessions that explored specifics of wine, such as French wines or a particular variety of wine.

Huy recommended organising wine appreciation events such as these through wine merchants rather than through restaurants to ensure you pay retail prices for the wine rather than restaurant prices.

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W

ine is traditionally enjoyed with a meal, and the European style of eating several courses works perfectly for wine pairing, with the flavours of individual courses matched with a complimentary wine.

But Vietnamese food is not usually served in courses. A typical sit-down meal is a shared affair of many dishes, with many flavours and textures involved. So how do you pair a wine for that?

Australian celebrity chef Luke Nguyen, owner of Vietnam House and Grain cooking

20 AsiaLIFE HCMC

school, said there’s no special magic to matching wine with Vietnamese food.

“For me there’s no difference (between pairing wine with Western and Vietnamese food),” he said. “We match the wine with what flavours we’re having.”

Luke also noted that Vietnamese food doesn’t only go well with white wines. Red wines also work, he said.

Expert Panel

We asked a panel of wine experts for their recommendations for a typical Southernstyle Vietnamese meal of thit kho trung (pork and egg braised in coconut water), goi buoi tom thit (pomelo salad with pork and prawn), ngheu hap xa (clams steamed with lemongrass), rau muong xao toi (morning glory stir-fried with garlic) and canh ca chua (sour fish soup).

To get in the spirit of wine words, we’ve made up our own tasting notes for the dishes. (With suitably cheffy input from Calvin Bui of The Publik House.)

Thit kho trung (pork and egg braised in coconut water): A braised dish full of caramel sweetness and umami savouriness.

The fatty pork adds a richness, and the duck egg adds a range of different textures -- the creaminess of the yolk, and the springiness of the egg white.

Ngheu hap xa (clams steamed with lemongrass): A dish featuring the strong aromatics of lemongrass, the tingle of chilli and the brininess of the clams, with a warm broth that brings it all together.

Goi buoi tom thit (pomelo salad with pork and prawns): The sweet citrusy pomelo pulp pops in your mouth, balanced by the crunchy sweetness of shredded carrot, and soft strips of pork and shrimp. There’s roasted peanuts for crunch, Vietnamese mint for coolness, coriander for herbaceousness, and fried shallots adding a depth of flavour, doused in the umami, sweet, sour and spicy flavours of nuoc cham.

Rau muong xao toi (morning glory stir fried with garlic): This dish has a robust roasted garlic flavour, with a umami hint of shrimp paste or fish sauce, the crunch of the rau muong stems and silky wilted leaves that melt in your mouth, finished with a sprinkle of black pepper.

Canh ca chua (sour fish soup): This everyday Southern soup blends the sourness of tamarind, the sweetness of pineapple, the slight tartness of the green tomato with a fumet (fish bone broth) and aromatic herbs.

The Recommendation

Nguyen Khac Huy,

winner of the 2017 Sopexa Vietnam Best Sommelier competition.

An Alsatian-style Pinot Gris from Alsace, France.

This wine has aromas of citrus, green fruit, stonefruit and spices (clove and ginger), great minerality and a distinctive smoky note on the nose.

On the palate, the wine has delightful freshness, medium-high acidity, a slightly sweet opulence and is medium to fullbodied.

The acidity of the pinot gris will soften the sourness of the pomelo salad and mellow the umami taste of the sauce.

The slight sweetness of the wine will also balance the salty, herby and spiciness of the clams, while handling their fishiness and texture.

The roasted garlic in the morning glory dish will match the acidity in the pinot gris, and the structure of the wine will also work well with the crunchy texture of the vegetable and the savouriness of the sauce.

Virginia Jacobs, an Australian-

based wine educator and director of WineTasteTalk, who holds a Masters of Wine Technology and Viticulture from Melbourne University.

A mid-weight chardonnay.

Whilst there are a lot of different flavours in this menu there are common themes of sweet, sour, citrus flavours, fragrance and perfume, umami and texture. Looking for the similarities in the dishes rather than the differences will help you decide on a wine that will work well across an entire Vietnamese meal.

My first suggestion would be a midweight chardonnay, by this I mean a rounded mouthfeel but not too big in flavour yet with a crisp finish.

Perhaps some time in oak barrels, but not all new oak or it would overpower the delicate flavours. A cool climate chardonnay may be too crisp to work for the richer flavours and textures in some of the dishes.

A second choice would be a marsanne, viognier or roussanne or a blend of any of these. They have lovely floral notes on the nose, a crisp finish and the depth of texture to work with this menu.

These are available in Vietnam it would just be a matter of tracking one down and see how it works for you.

Andy Wall,

director of Rada Vietnam, a Hanoi-based wine import company.

Australian shiraz is the best pairing wine for Vietnamese meal occasions. (Best examples: Markview Shiraz; Kilikanoon Killerman’s Run Shiraz; Pertaringa Undercover Shiraz; Paxton’s MV Shiraz; The Lane Block 14 Basket Press Shiraz; and Evans & Tate Redbrook Shiraz.)

Australian shiraz is very fruit-driven upfront, providing lovely fresh aromas of red fruits and dark cherries that compliment the aromas of pork in coconut and clams in lemongrass. (Unlike old world wines from France that are very earth and oakdriven that create a very distinctive aroma sometimes described as like damp soil.)

Australian shiraz is usually aged for short periods in French oak helping to provide a soft, balanced mouthfeel with fine tannins that enhance the delicate spices and garlic enhanced flavours. (Unlike Chilean cabernet whose tannins would dry the mouth out and not enhance the meal experience.) Australian shiraz fruit provides a long and soft mouthfeel that works in perfect harmony with the powerful yet delicate flavours of the Vietnamese meal. Importantly, Australian shiraz, given it’s soft and easy drinking nature, lends itself perfectly to the traditional Vietnamese toasting style, whereby everybody fills a small wine glass and drinks to the bottom.

Mot, hai, ba - YO!

Two wine experts, Huy, and Discover Spanish Wine’s Alfredo de la Casa, also provided wine pairings for each individual dish.

Thit kho trung (pork and egg braised in coconut water) Alfredo: This delicious dish is best paired with a young grenache wine, the sweetness of the coconut water goes great with the natural sweetness of grenache grapes, and the soft tannins of the grenache will pair with the fattiness of the pork.

Huy: My recommendation is a young un-oaked Cote Du Rhone red from France.

In this particular Southern-style Vietnamese dish, you really need a wine with a good acidity backbone to balance the richness of the egg yolk (which is notoriously difficult to pair with). Also, the softness and spiciness from the grenache/syrah in the wine will enhance the umami savouriness

and creaminess from the fatty pork and creamy coconut.

Goi buoi tom thit (pomelo salad with pork and prawn), Alfredo: for this my choice would be a verdejo or a chenin blanc, or if you want to spend a bit more an albarino or chablis. The acidity of the pomelo will match that of the wines recommended, while having both body to go with the pork and finesse for the prawns.

Huy: my suggestion is a riesling from Eden Valley, Australia. This wellknown starter dish has noticeable acidity and freshness from the pomelo with a herbaceous feel. A good compliment is a dry, fruity and racy wine from riesling grapes (which grow particularly well in the Eden Valley) that soften the acidity in the dish and mellow the umami taste from the nuoc cham.

Ngheu hap xa (clams steamed with lemongrass), Alfredo: this is easy to pair, again a Verdejo or an unoaked chardonnay. If you want to go red, try a Rioja Crianza.

Huy: My suggestion is an unoaked chardonnay or chablis A.O.C from Burgundy, France. As this dish has the pronounced aromatics of culinary herbs like lemongrass and the brininess of clams, the fresh, citrus and minerality from unoaked chardonnay will compliment the salty, herby flavour and balance the soft texture of the clams.

Rau muong xao toi (morning glory stirfried with garlic) Alfredo: Another easy to pair dish, a Rioja Crianza would be my first choice, but also a nice nero d’Avola from Sicily.

Huy: My suggestion is an amontillado sherry from Jerez, Spain. The dry, aromatic herbs, nutty notes from special biological and oxidative aging of sherry wine will enhance the melted-flavour of roasted garlic and the crunchy texture of rau muong will make this paring more lively.

Canh can chua (sour fish soup).

Alfredo: a sauvignon blanc from the Loire or a vermentino would go great with this, matching the acidity of the wine to the sourness of the dish.

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22 AsiaLIFE HCMC

“I

just love Saigon. No one expects to, but the city just gets wonderfully under your skin,” Bridget March, author of Sensational Saigon told me as she vigorously flipped open the book’s cover to write a personal message. “It’s so honest – it has no airs and graces. It simply says, `come with me, let me show you everything’!”

Her latest book is an intricate journey through Saigon, with all its loveable idiosyncrasies and public spectacles.

Through a combination of sketches, illustrations, maps, small handwritten anecdotes and snippets of history, Bridget paints a vivid picture of a city that has stood the test of time – but one that is also changing rapidly before our very eyes.

The illustrations depict perfectly the street scenes that are familiar sights in Saigon – ladies sleeping on their produce baskets at the wet markets, beautiful mosaics engraved on the walls of cafes citywide, cyclos laden with exhausted tourists, laundry hung from urban balconies and lone fishermen whiling away their afternoons on highway bridges with homemade reels. Moto drivers balanced precariously on their bikes, asleep; lottery ticket ladies and banh xeo stalls in Thao Dien; barbers giving haircuts on nondiscrete street corners; tangles of electrical wire so heavy the poles they dangle off bend dangerously low.

Bridget is a discerning expat and artist, one with an extraordinary skill for capturing the simple joys of daily life in the chaos of Ho Chi Minh City. Born in Harrogate in the United Kingdom, the artist spent most of her life in Leeds before a whirlwind visit to Vietnam in 2012 saw her life completely change in an instant. While visiting a friend who was living in Saigon, the notion was put to Bridget that she work on her art there instead.

“It took me two days to realise it was a brilliant idea,” Bridget admitted.

Since, Bridget has spent time living in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Sapa and Hoi An,

Lauren Cameron meets one of Saigon’s biggest fans, a British artist who has captured the soul of the city in her new book. Photos by Romain Garrigue. where she published an illustrated book on the charms of the seaside heritage town, opened her own art gallery, and still lives today.

“When I published A Week in Hoi An I knew immediately it couldn’t be a standalone book. Documenting the culture, the mythology, the true essence of the town was something I definitely wanted to repeat,” Bridget explained.

And so, she did. A kind offer from a friend living in Sapa soon after inspired the production of yet another illustrated book, A Summer in Sapa, which colourfully portrayed the mountain town and its daily life. But none of her published works to date have excited Bridget quite so much as her latest: Sensational Saigon.

The city’s eccentricities and foibles had enchanted Bridget since her arrival, meaning she already had ample material for an illustrated homage to Saigon when the idea for the book was born. But the journey had only just begun.

“I couldn’t wait to get back to Saigon – I wanted to learn even more of its secrets and truly discover what the city was about.

But it wasn’t easy. It’s one of the fastest changing cities in the world,” she admitted.

But it was the pace of the place that ended up guiding the direction of Sensational Saigon.

“What was changing in Saigon wasn’t just the building and construction industry and the physical layout of the city – it was the acceleration of change that was truly breath-taking,” Bridget said. “It happened so quickly and so intensely that we almost lost our appetite for talking about change, much like the British tire of talking about the weather.”

In an effort to truly “get under the city’s skin” and get a real sense of the place Bridget endlessly dragged her friends into Saigon’s hidden alleyways, strangers’ homes and inside old, abandoned buildings, speaking to whoever would engage with her. She wanted desperately to document

the city that was changing so rapidly that half the buildings she had sketched in her first year living there had already disappeared from the skyline.

“I felt compelled to do something to help show people the history and beauty of the city before it was too late,” Bridget explained. “Often it is the job of strangers to do so – to come to a place and point out to locals how beautiful it is, to treasure the rich layers of history laid down upon its earth.”

“Young people are nostalgic for the old Saigon, but very few actually know what that Saigon looked like or of its history… I want to help preserve an authentic picture of it,” Bridget said.

For tourists who are either enraptured by the city or who don’t have enough time to explore it in all its glory, Sensational Saigon provides a vibrant snapshot of the place.

“But it’s not a guidebook – it’s an expression of my passion for this place,” Bridget said.

The book is stocked by Kokoïs, Saigon Artisan and Saigon Artbook. It can also be delivered free to anywhere in Vietnam via purchase at www. bridgetmarch.co.uk (US$17).

AsiaLIFE HCMC 23

Peter Cornish delves into one of hot new trends in Ho Chi Minh City’s nightlife.

Photo by Romain Garrigue.

24 AsiaLIFE HCMC

M

ention salsa and a lot of people will ask you to pass the chips.

Others with less food-focused minds might conjure up thoughts of hot, steamy Latin passion from films such as Dirty Dancing, Havana Nights or Love, Sex and Salsa.

Yet while salsa along with the many other Latin dancing styles can transform lives and spark relationships, things aren’t quite as hot and steamy as the many films might lead us to believe. At least that’s the way the city’s dance community is trying to keep it.

While still in its infancy, the Latin dance scene in Vietnam has boomed in recent years, from the strict, technical styling of Hanoi to the community-based social events of Ho Chi Minh City. And, like many other developing scenes here, it’s starting to attract international attention.

Long History

The origins of Latin dance are deeply rooted in the rich traditions of South and Central America, and the Caribbean Islands’ indigenous peoples, yet over time they have been heavily influenced by European colonials and African slaves.

As in many countries around the world, dancing was an integral part of community life for the native people of these regions, performed during festivals and rituals and often representing their cultural and religious beliefs. Dances were often highly structured, involving large numbers of people performing intricate, carefully choreographed moves.

With the arrival of Spanish and Portuguese colonists, many of the indigenous rituals and traditions were incorporated into their Catholic beliefs and become part of their own religious festivals.

Later, European immigrants bought their dancing styles to these regions and over time they were adapted and adopted by the local populations.

The different styles spread quickly across South and Central America and African slaves added their own rhythmic movements to the mix, contributing polycentric movements, whole-foot steps and all-important improvisation. Over

time, different regions, cities and countries developed their own distinct dances, giving rise to the modern Latin dances we know today.

Salsa, Rumba and Mambo are deeply rooted in Cuba and Puerto Rico. Merengue traces its origins to the Hispanic islands such as Haiti and the Dominican Republic where the roots of Bachata can also be found. Brazil claims the Samba while the Bolero started in Spain before making its way to the new continent.

Passionate dancer and a familiar face on the city’s dance circuit, Gabriel Meranze Levitt has spent time dancing in both Hanoi and HCMC. Schooled initially in Merengue, he spent years in countries such as El Salvador, Mexico and Argentina developing his techniques and honing his moves before relocating to Vietnam at a time when the dance scene was in its early days.

Hanoi Scene

Initially based in Hanoi, Gabriel found an active dance scene steeped in the formality of technique and precision, and an infrastructure of huge venues and grand ballrooms that supported large gatherings of dancers.

The two went hand-in-hand, with venues designed for dancing encouraging precise movement and attention to detail.

With many of Hanoi’s dancers taking their dancing seriously, working day jobs then taking time to study in the evenings, Gabriel became part of a group hooked on studying movement and technique.

“Dancing is a great form of self-expression through movement, connecting to the rhythm and music drives intensity.

Introverted people have an opportunity to express themselves non-verbally through movement,” he explained.

It is perhaps this intimate self-expression often taking place between two complete strangers, joining momentarily for a dance, that has led to perceptions that Latin dance is highly sexualised, but this is not the case Gabriel pointed out. “Something happens on the dancefloor that doesn’t happen elsewhere. When it clicks it’s like nirvana, two people one unit but non-sexual.”

This is a belief shared by Will Knight and his partner Marta Bartosz, founders of Salsateka Dance Studio in District 3. Marta has been dancing since she was eight years old and taught for several years in the UK before coming to Vietnam.

Like her partner Will, she comes from a background where dance is a social activity and together they quickly threw themselves into the vibrant local dance community, organising themed parties and regular events at multiple venues around town.

Mind Your Manners

Will explained that a strict etiquette exists on the dance circuit encouraging and promoting gentlemanly and ladylike behaviour, often policed by the community to ensure people behave themselves.

If unwanted attention is shown to a dancer, others will step in and politely ask people to conduct themselves courteously and maintain the spirit of the community.

To encourage respectful behaviour on the dancefloor, Marta offers a popular ladies-only dance class named Dance for Self Defence. Free for those who would like to join, the class is designed to develop confidence on the dancefloor, and to learn protection techniques in a dancing context.

These instances are rare but there is a need to ensure the community feels safe.

“At times partners can be a little rough, or maybe a lady doesn’t want to dance, or perhaps a partner is a sweaty and smells,” she said. The class helps ladies realise it’s OK to say no thanks, not this time, and to dance with people they want to dance with on their terms,” Marta said.

Working with the other dance studios around the city, Will and Marta are actively encouraging people to come and join the nightly events around the city. “We want to let people know it’s open to all. If you want to learn but don’t have the confidence, understand the community is welcoming and non-judgemental. New people join all the time, and everyone was a beginner at on point,” Will said.

Why not put on your dancing shoes and check out the Salsa Saigon Facebook page for a calendar of nightly events?

LIST OF DANCE STUDIOS 1. La Salsa - fb.com/lasalsa.club 212 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, District 3 Salsa, Bachata, Kizomba 2. X Salsa - fb.com/xsalsa 28 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, District 3 Salsa N.Y On 2, Cuban Salsa, Bachata,

Street Cha Cha 3. La Danza - fb.com/Ladanzavn 169/2A Vo Thi Sau st., District 3 Salsa, Bachata, Kizomba, Cha Cha, Jazz Funk 4. M.A.N Dance Studio - fb.com/

MANdancestudio 71/17 Co Bac, Co Giang, District 1 Salsa, Bachata, fitness 5. Salsatecha Dance Studio - fb.com/ SalsatekaUKinVietnam B’s Mart 63 Tran Quang Dieu, District 3 Bachata, Salsa, Kizomba, Samba, Zumba

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26 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Yendy Tsang investigates the history, customs and culture of Vietnam’s Chinese population. Photo by Romain Garrigue.

C

hinese people have left their footprint on almost every part of the world, after leaving their home shores seeking better lives (which sometimes meant better business environments). As a result, most international cities have a Chinatown.

In Vietnam, we are called the Hoa people, in which is sometimes mistranslated as “flower people”. We make up about 1% of the total population in Vietnam.

There used to be a lot more of us, but many ethnic Chinese people have left Vietnam since 1978.

And why did they leave? Well, it’s a long story.

A Look at History

Let’s start from with my grandfather’s generation. His father brought his family to Vietnam from China to escape the Second Sino-Japanese War in 1943.

When they arrived in Vietnam, the family was helped by Chinese people who were already living here. Some families, whose ancestors moved to Vietnam after the collapse of the Ming dynasty in 1600s, helped the “newbie” Chinese in getting familiar with the daily life.

Most of those early Chinese immigrants moved because they didn’t want to live under the rule of the Manchu people of the Qing dynasty.

Within Ho Chi Minh City’s Chinatown, there are five different groups. The Cantonese are from Guangdong province; the Chaozhou are from the eastern of Guangdong province; the Fujian are from Fujian city in the southeast coast; the Hakka are from Guangdong and the north; and the Hainanese are from the southernmost island.

My family is Cantonese. “That’s why I told you since you were young to learn Cantonese,” my traditional grandpa, Tran Bieu, told me when I asked him about our family’s history.

In 1975, at the end of the VietnamAmerican war, there were 1.8 million Hoa people living in Vietnam, and half of Saigon’s population was ethnic Chinese.

However, the Sino-Vietnamese War in 1978 made the relationship between the Hoa and the local government difficult.

Restrictions were placed on businesses run

by Hoa people, and as a result many chose to leave Vietnam. According to the last census, conducted in 2009, there are now just over 800,000 Hoa people in Vietnam.

Hoa People Today

Nowadays, the Hoa people live throughout Vietnam. However, only those living in Ho Chi Minh City and other southern provinces, such as Dong Nai and Bac Lieu, acknowledge their Chinese origins.

We have integrated with the Vietnamese

community. Most, apart from some of the oldest family members, speak fluent Vietnamese. Some have intermarried with Vietnamese people and perform Vietnamese customs and traditions.

My family lives in District 11, one of the most crowded parts of Ho Chi Minh City’s Chinatown, which spans 5, 8 and 10 as well as my own area. Our Chinatown has many Chinese-style houses, Chinese shops and (best of all) Chinese restaurants and food stalls.

The Hoa are known for being good at running business, and the different groups within the community are believed to excel at particular forms of commerce.

For example, the Cantonese are believed to be good at textiles and manufacturing, the Fujian at trading, the Hakka at craft, the Hainanese at seafood trading and the Chaozhou mostly run small restaurants and grocery stores.

The Lifestyle of Hoa People

My 69-grandfather is always the first in the family to get up. He wakes 6am and goes for a walk in the park near our house.

Afterwards he enjoys a bowl of Chinese noodles, a cup of tea and a chat with old friends.

“We, the retired people, gather in the park every morning for a walk,” he said. There are a lot of outdoor dance clubs for free in the mornings. When they start the music we can join if we like. It’s fun for the old people.”

“We favor a peaceful life and avoid coming into conflict with the Vietnamese,” he said. “The Hoa people believe that if any conflict happens, it’s hard to find a solution because the Hoa and the Vietnamese don’t understand each other well.”

My grandfather said trust is very important among Hoa people when doing business, with a lot of commercial relationships built on credit.

An old Hoa saying is: “Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me.”

The Hoa people are hard-working. They love to run small businesses which means a lot of multi-tasking.

Luu Tuyet Han runs a small bookshop shop in District 11. “I sell learning tools like books, pens, and small cute things for the students,” she said.

“I only have one employee to help me look after the motorbikes when customers arrive, and he can help me whenever I need support. I’m the owner, accountant, sourcing controller and all other departments, if necessary.”

One of the features of the Hoa community is our holidays and worshipping customs.

Despite having lived in Vietnam for generations, we still retain the beliefs and worships of our homeland.

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T

Shannon Brown looks at the extended essay component of the International Baccalaureate. Photo by Romain Garrigue.

he International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme (IBDP) is a programme that prepares high school students for university by creating independent, creative, and thorough students. The International School of Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC) has 70 Grade 12 students enrolled in its IBDP this year.

The extended essay has been a mandatory component of this programme since 1974.

The extended essay, or EE, is a 4,000-word research paper which gives students the opportunity to conduct independent research on a topic that interests them. The topic must be in one of the student’s six core subject areas. The extended essay provides practical preparation for undergraduate research and helps students develop an argument and communicate their ideas.

her essay on women film directors and the barriers they face. She started her research believing it belonged in the arts category, but quickly decided her question was more about business management. Eventually, she concluded that women face more sociological barriers than business ones. In her speech, she encouraged the upcoming senior class to pick a topic which is current and shows originality. Piorkowski says she plans on becoming a film director and has a better understanding of the film business now. She also shows hope for a brighter future. “By the time I’ll hopefully get in the industry, there will already be fewer barriers for me due to movements created and led by influencers like Emma Watson and Oprah Winfrey. I know exactly who I want to become and I will do anything to get to it.”

Celebrations

Mathematical Model

ISHCMC recently hosted an end-of-year event to celebrate the completion of all the students’ EEs. The evening opened with presentations by six of the students.

The presenters were nominated by their extended essay supervisors, and chosen to showcase the diversity of topics and research questions. “We wanted to ensure our EE celebration evening captured a snapshot of the variety of topics tackled by our Grade 12 cohort,” said Jane Barrowcliff, the school’s EE coordinator.

Female Film Directors

Margot Piorkowski, from France, wrote

28 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Myeong Hun Song, from South Korea, used his 4,000 words to write about a mathematical model he created that can predict population growth. Song wanted to investigate the future of our world, so he chose to research the natural phenomenon of population change using a fictional country: a United Korea. He began by studying two dominant population models - the exponential growth model and the logistics model - and declared both to be limited and unable to predict population decline. As South Korea is experiencing a rapidly decreasing birth rate, and an increasing death rate, Song set

out to make a model that would predict a declining population. His model is called the Population Teach Model, and when he compared his results to United Nations population estimates, he was proud to discover that they were in line. Song says that although many students avoid writing their essays in mathematics, he is glad that he chose his topic. “I learned how to deal with challenges during this research,” he said.

Constantinople

Rizana Tran Tatlock, from the United States, submitted an essay in the subject of history, focused on the fall of Constantinople. She relied heavily on primary sources (diaries and memoirs) as well as secondary sources in historical texts. She discovered that many historians disagreed on the actual details of events, but shared that this taught her how to evaluate different perspectives and synthesise information to come up with rational conclusions. She urged the students in 11th grade not to be overwhelmed by contradicting sources and to take it as an opportunity to show critical thinking skills.

Spanish Colonisalism

Alexia Guglielmi, from Italy, wrote her essay in a second language, and admitted that it wasn’t a strong subject for her when she started. She asked the question, “To what extent was Latin American culture impacted

by Spanish colonialism?” Her research focused on culture - religions, traditions, and celebrations - and she conducted all

of her reading and writing in Spanish. Her advice to the next class? “Choose a topic that interests you and intimidates you.

Don’t just settle,” she said.

Coffee Marketing

Ethan Wei, from the Philippines, completed an essay on the artisanal versus industrial approach to marketing within the US coffee industry. Wei divulged that his essay took about 20 drafts to get right, because he just kept learning things he felt he had to include. He said the turning point in his research was when he decided to focus on the US industry specifically. Wei also spoke about the emerging millennial demographic, which spends more money on novel experiences than actual goods, and how they have changed the coffee culture around the world. “This research showed me how business is essentially a response to the needs of society - without a market need, there would be no business,” he said. “I hope to be one of the people racing to find new gaps in the market before everyone else realizes they are there.”

Trieu Vy Luan, from Vietnam, spent months collecting data on his chemistry research essay on plastics and polymers.

Growing up, his parents owned a plastic company, and he learned about the negative environmental impact of petroleum-based plastics firsthand. Scientists are now searching for more biodegradable and ecological strands of alternative plastics, which prompted Luan to create his own thermoplastic starch. Through trial and

error, he produced a successful sample and then tested 16 different samples to measure how much weight they could hold. Luan said, “I let my love for chemistry drive me,” he said. “What I couldn’t learn from any textbook or research paper was the process of conducting a lab from scratch. It was an extremely useful taster to the material science degree I hope to study.”

Congratulations

After the speeches were finished, Jane Barrowcliff gathered a beautiful round of applause for all the students. “I think it’s fair to say that I speak for every single student stood on this stage in saying that the journey towards success in the extended essay didn’t necessarily always run smoothly, as planned, and to a certain view, on time,” she said. “However, the class of 2018 persevered, showed resilience, and can now successfully stand on this stage having completed a 4,000 word research paper. To mark just how impressive that is, bear in mind that when you go to university, a first year undergraduate usually doesn’t write a paper of more than 3,000 words. It’s definitely something to be celebrated.”

The ISHCMC graduating class of 2018 should be extremely proud of themselves for accomplishing this monumental task and the presenters can now rest easy knowing their essays and speeches are finally over. Now it’s onto graduation and goodbyes as these students prepare to take their advanced knowledge to new heights and new campuses.

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HEALTH & WELLNESS

30 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Wesley Grover looks at a disturbing new trend in Ho Chi Minh City. Photo by Romain Garrigue.

O

f the many vices to be found on Bui Vien, balloons filled with nitrous oxide, or laughing gas as it’s commonly referred to, are among the most easily and affordably attained. Some bars will use it to lure passersby in and vendors can be seen along the street with canisters of gas, ready to hock balloons for VND40,000, or roughly the same price as a beer.

On any given night, one can hear the distinct hissing sound as locals, expats, and backpackers alike inhale the intoxicating gas – dazed, wobbly, and, of course, laughing hysterically – but what risks are they taking?

Due to the fact that the inhalant is both legal and used medicinally, there’s a widespread belief that laughing gas is harmless. After all, it’s relatively nontoxic; it’s been used recreationally since the 1800s (“laughing gas parties” were reportedly a thing among the upper class in the Victorian era); and most people have probably experienced the euphoric effects of nitrous oxide as an anesthetic administered by a doctor or dentist at one point in their life.

Risks

However, use of the depressant-type drug outside of a professional setting does pose serious risks that people should be aware of it they’re going to try it, especially when it’s used repeatedly and under the influence of alcohol.

“Chronic exposure to nitrous oxide is very dangerous and can produce significant damage to brain cells, nerve fibers, the heart, red blood cells, and induce vitamin B12 deficiency, which can lead to neurologic deterioration if undetected,” shares Dr. Marie-Laure Bry, a general practitioner specialising in psychiatry and addiction rehabilitation at FV Hospital.

She warns that adolescents in particular, whose brains are not yet fully developed, are most susceptible to damaging the

prefrontal cortex of the brain, a region that plays an integral role in decision making, planning complex cognitive behavior, and personality expression.

Can Be Deadly

“At a high dose, nitrous oxide can cause lethargy, general muscle weakness, slurred speech, hallucination, irregular heartbeats, and sometimes convulsions. Using inhalants as a recreational drug can even cause death due to lack of oxygen to the brain, asphyxiation, and heart failure,” Dr. Bry tells us.

Additionally, users face the risk of injuries that can occur from a loss of motor function, such as falling down, passing out, or driving impaired.

The fact that laughing gas is legal in many places can be misleading. As an aerosol propellant, it has a variety of legitimate uses and is commonly found in whipped cream canisters, known as whippits, and cooking sprays, which account for why the gas is so easy to obtain at a low price.

However, the legality of recreational use varies around the world and a few years ago it was banned in the United Kingdom under the 2016 Psychoactive Substances Act (though, interpretation and enforcement of this law remains heavily debated).

Here in Vietnam, the Hoi An City People’s Committee made a recent effort to crack down on the debauchery that comes with late night inebriation and banned buying and selling all forms of laughing gas, Viet Nam News reported in February, a move that could follow in other parts of the country.

While use of nitrous oxide is unlikely to lead to addiction issues or habit-forming tendencies, it’s important to have all of the facts if you are going to indulge in a high that lasts about as long as it’s taken you to read this sentence. After that, the decision is yours.

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Barbara Adam ventures into dangerous new territory at a fitness retreat. Photos by Angeli Castillo.

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L

ike the cliched Hollywood villain, Miss JoJo had an Eastern European accent, a special costume and a name that her mother didn’t give

her.

She was definitely bad news. But I knew she was merely an enforcer.

The true evil mastermind in this plot was right next to me, sweating in the sun with a fistful of sand in each hand. And, as you’d expect, the evil mastermind of this Bondish scenario was from New Zealand.

I was determined this pair of baddies wouldn’t get the better of me. So I forced myself to do play their nefarious game, while I bided my time, plotting victory. Or a cunning getaway of some description. In a silver Aston Martin. Or a jetski.

These were the thoughts churning through my head during my second fitness session of the weekend. I was sweating and puffing on the beach in front of Ho Tram Beach Boutique Resort, three hours drive from Ho Chi Minh City.

The event was called Escape Saigon, the very first getaway organised by a new Saigon-based company, HyperFit Travel.

On this weekend, the enforcer was JoJo of CrossFit Thao Dien. And her workouts did make me quite cross (and sweaty).

The organiser, Vickie Helson, also made me cross, smiling and chatting through the beach workout. Both obviously evil to their well-toned cores.

After performing the required number of stretches, lunges, burpees and “climbthe-mountains”, and carrying a bag of sand along the beach for no good reason, evil Miss JoJo finally released me from my ordeal.

I hobbled to breakfast to recover with the other hostages. I mean, retreat guests.

There were 14 of us on this first Hyperfit retreat. We’d signed up for a weekend involving four fitness sessions (two yoga

sessions and two beach workouts) and a succession of sumptuous meals. I’m not sure any of us ended up with a calorie deficit by the end of the retreat.

In between fitness sessions, there was a lot of lounging by the pool and long walks on the beach. I had planned to check out the resort spa, but accidentally had a nap in my room instead.

There was a photographer on the retreat, recording every drop of sweat, every grain of sand and every sneaky gin and tonic. Guests get a photo package after the weekend.

Vickie (who I called Vickie the Villain in my head during the fitness sessions) came up with the idea of combining fitness and travel while recovering from burnout brought on by years of working for tech start-ups.

“I just wasn’t doing anything I loved,” she said. “I was working long hours, stressed and unhappy, and I wasn’t taking care of myself: not exercising, drinking too much, and sick all the time.”

“I hit rock bottom last year which was really hard, but in hindsight I probably had to go there to come back from it.”

Vickie decided to break up with her unhealthy career and lifestyle, and she spent most of last year recovering and rebuilding her health. She realised she really enjoyed getting back into the fitness scene. (She’d previously trained to be a personal trainer but ended up working in IT instead.)

And once she came up with the idea of fitness retreats, she started exercising the entrepreneurial muscles she spent 17 years building in the start-up industry. Within four-and-a-half months, she had recruited a team of experts, including a “tame Millennial” to do social media, and was hosting her first Hyperfit retreat.

The concept of fitness travel emerged

about five years ago, Vickie said, and in Southeast Asia most companies only host yoga or bootcamp retreats in Bali and Muay Thai retreats in Thailand. A long-time resident of Asia, Vickie wanted to showcase the beauty of other countries, such as Cambodia, the Philippines and Vietnam, as well as different forms of fitness training.

“I wanted to innovate,” she said. “I have a different attitude because of my background in the start-up world. It’s all about having an idea, researching it, testing it out and seeing if you -- and the market -- like it.”

Hyperfit’s next retreat is the seven-day “Blood, Sweat and Temples” retreat in Cambodia’s Siem Reap from June 25 to July 1. There’s another planned for August, and the Hyperfit team are also planning a retreat in the Philippines.

The Siem Reap retreat includes many meals, including buffet breakfasts, and daily fitness sessions, including yoga, Kun Khmer (Cambodian kickboxing) and outdoor activities. Several cultural excursions are also included, including temple tours, eco-tours and a secret swimming spot.

But back to Ho Tram and the Bond girls turned bad scenario.

We’d been promised a weekend away from the noise and the pollution of Ho Chi Minh City, and we certainly got it. The beach workouts were definitely tougher than I’m used to, but the rest of the time was blissful (and not just because I left the kids at home).

Even Villainous Vickie relaxed enough to admit she did indeed have a secret agenda (aka evil plan): “My mission is to give people the most uniquely fun, healthy and inspiring holiday possible.” hyperfittravel.com.

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Lauren Cameron explores an off-the-tourist trail destination in central Vietnam. Photos by Lauren Cameron.

D

escribed by Lonely Planet as “a city not worth spending time in unless you’re a Ho Chi Minh devotee or you must stop there en route to Laos”, Vinh has earned a sad reputation as an industrial, concrete hub and nothing more.

Blogs and travel forums diss the port city repeatedly, labelling it a Soviet-styled metropolis lacking in cultural value, despite its historic significance and prime location smack bang in one of Vietnam’s most peaceful rural provinces. In my opinion, that Vinh has yet to feel the full impact of tourism is its saving grace. The city’s streets retain a sense of what life in Saigon might have been like some 10 or 15 years ago; shops and stalls peddle bizarre trinkets from dawn till dusk, very little English is spoken, and one could count on one hand the number of Westernstyle restaurants to have opened in recent years.

Getting there is a breeze. There are nine 1 hour and 45 minute flights a day from Ho Chi Minh City - unless you would prefer the 26-hour train journey. I opted for short and sweet.

An assignment with Johnson & Johnson had brought me there. I was to venture into one of the province’s smaller townships to document the plight of children suffering tuberculosis – one of the country’s leading causes of mortality. But before leaving the city’s limits I had time to stop and explore, and boy am I grateful I did.

Strategic Location

A key point in the East-West economic corridor linking Myanmar, Thailand, Laos and Vietnam, Vinh is considered the cultural and financial capital of central Vietnam; the powerhouse of the Nghe An Province.

Though not exactly coastal, the city’s Southeastern perimeter hugs the Ca River estuary which, 18km on, leads to Cua Lo beach – a wonderful spot to have a dip in crystal clear waters before gorging on fresh seafood at one of the many seaside restaurants.

Nature has also endowed the Nghe An province with Pu Mat National Park, one of Central Vietnam’s finest places to take in the region’s unique flora and fauna. But the main reason visitors flock to the province is to visit the birthplace of Vietnam’s former Prime Minister Ho Chi Minh, who was raised in a small, humble hamlet in Kim Lien just 15km outside of Vinh City. A small, bamboowalled recreation of the hut he lived in as a child is all that remains of the property itself, but walled within the grounds is also a museum, temple and family alter honouring the revered leader.

Attraction-wise, the city offers very little: two stone gates remain of Vinh’s ancient citadel, and a small museum (Xo Viet Nghe Tinh Museum) details the struggles of the Vietnamese revolutionary movement during the French occupation. In the city’s centre stands a 12m tall, copper colored granite statue of Uncle Ho surrounded by an area known as Ho Chi Minh Square.

Bamboo and grass found in the square are taken from 61 provinces and cities throughout the country, symbolic of the monumental impact the man had upon his country.

The city was all but obliterated by US bombing during the Vietnam War, targeted for its strategic role as an industrial port and therefore the supply gateway to the Ho Chi Minh trail.

While scarce evidence of the bombing remains, remnants of the widespread damage caused can be seen in the city’s many communist-era buildings which were 34 AsiaLIFE HCMC

built with East German assistance once the war ended.

Authentic Experience

While not exactly a coveted destination for holidaymakers or sun-seekers, Vinh offers a snippet of the real Vietnam.

I was there in early February, a month that sees an average temperature of just 15 degrees Celsius and at one point during my stay it dropped to just five degrees – a welcome respite from the sultry heat of Saigon. As I wandered the streets of Vinh shortly after dawn, covered in scarves and coats I hadn’t touched since moving to Ho Chi Minh City the previous year, the streets quite literally thawed around me. Elderly stallholders set up their wares on busy motorway side paths and produce markets burst into life down cramped side streets. I dined at a local restaurant, unnamed but known to many in the city, that specialised in goat. Blanched, boiled, steamed or stir-fried – the options were numerous, albeit limited to goat. Served with piles of fresh herbs, chunks of ginger and bottles of local rice wine; diners in this particular restaurant were riotously drunk at not yet 11am.

One afternoon I was traipsing the streets in search of the regional specialty – eel soup or sup luon. While not exactly considered a gastronomic delight in the Western world it was well and truly on my bucket list of Vietnamese specialties to try, and I had been captivated by the history of the dish. Understandably, Vinh went through periods of severe famine during the late 1900s as one of Vietnam’s most bombed cities, compelling locals to “look elsewhere” for ingredients. Apparently, they were to be found in the polyculture rice fields of the Nghe An Province - in the form of eels.

1. 90 Nguyễn Trường Tộ 2. 68 Ly Thuong Kiet 3. Ms Lieu’s eel soup eatery on Mai Hac De, Vinh (at the Quan Bau Intersection) 4. 146 Phan Đình Phong 5. Hong Son, 154 Mai Hac De

Elusive Eel

As stallholder after stallholder shook their head at me, having finished serving for the day, I had almost given up hope until I stumbled across a few plastic stools and a hut, lakeside. A few gestures and smiles later I had a steaming hot bowl of the stuff in front of me: a pungent, spicy, hot broth of chili, coriander, scallions, turmeric, mint, eel and fish sauce. Admittedly it took some courage to bite into the slippery sucker’s flesh and I am anything but proud to publicly disclose that first bite was all I could stomach, but the broth it sat in was surprisingly enjoyable! As I slurped my snake soup, I was approached by an old woman who could not quite fathom my presence. As she stroked my cheeks and smiled at me toothlessly, we developed what I assumed was a relationship, only to find that all the woman wanted was to cajole some money off me. The joy of finding eel soup had me feeling rather generous so naturally I handed her some cash, only to cause a public brawl between the old woman, a neighbouring stall, a fellow diner and a man off the street, who all felt it in their best interests to get my money back for me.

It was but one of several interactions I had with locals during my stay – one that still makes me smile in amusement. While Nghe An is a fast changing city, it is – for now at least – a place where friendships can still be forged over a cup of strongly brewed coffee, where locals are genuinely interested in travellers and their reasons for being there, and where life appears simpler than it does in many of the country’s more popular tourist destinations.

If you are seeking an authentic encounter or two, give Vinh a chance, before it is too late.

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PASTA

BY THE YORKSHIRE

M

angiare per vivere e non vivere per mangiare (eat to live, not live to eat) just about sums it up regarding Italians.

Pasta is so synonymous with Italy, versatile and yet really easy to make.

In my travels around Italy I have seen so many versions of pasta.

Every Nona swears their version is the best or the most traditional.

For Italians, family and food is everything, the first thing you think about when you wake up and the last thing you think about before you go to sleep.

Plain flour will make the dough and be acceptable but if you want to ensure you don’t get chased out of a village by a Nona wielding her kitchen brush then you have to use durum wheat, 00 or semolina flour.

They are all different but totally right in their own way.

For durumor 00 I would always use egg as the binding ingredient, for semolina I have tried it with oil and water to great effect but I would only use this with hearty sauces like bolognese or ragu.

As a rule of thumb 100g of flour to 1 egg will give you a good serving of pasta but here I will share with you one of my decadent delights which uses a 50/50 mix of durum wheat and 00 flour (Often called royal pasta).

As with so many pasta dishes there is no real detailed amounts or ingredient measurements (Except roughly for the dough).

For vegetarians you can substitute zucchini sticks for the prawns.

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BLADE

Prawn, spinach pea and sweetcorn linguine 100g durum wheat 100g 00 flour 4 egg yolks, beaten Sieve the flour onto a flat surface, make a well in the middle and pour in 2/3 of the eggs. Stir in the flour from the center outwards.

Add more egg until the mixture comes together. Knead for around three minutes, wrap in cling film and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Separate the dough into two balls (for easier handling). Roll each ball out to about 8mm thickness, fold over and roll again. Do this two more times but for the last time roll out as thin as you can.

Lightly dust both sides of the dough with semolina then fold one end back to just past half way then fold the other end over the top so you have three layers. Using a sharp knife slice every 8mm along the sides to form your linguine.

In a skillet throw in some olio followed by the garlic, peas and blackened sweetcorn. After onr minute add the prawns and cook for two minutes, turn over the prawns and add the spinach and chilli flakes. In a pan of boiling salted water cook the linguine for no more than three minutes. As soon as the spinach has wilted, drain the linguine and add to the skillet with a splash of the water. Toss, stir then serve, garnish with toasted pine nuts, pomegranate seeds, lemon juice and grated parmigiana.

Remember what Sophia Loren said: “Everything you see I owe to pasta.”

MON AN DUONG PHO (P.2) FOOD STREET (P.2)

BY TRISTAN NGO PHOTO BY ROMAIN GARRIGUE

W

hen I first arrived in Vietnam back in 1993, there were food hawkers everywhere.

Some were stationary and some moved from street to street. These were the interesting ones as they all had their own call or chant to identify what they were selling.

And they sold dishes like hu tiu go, banh chung, banh gio, trai cay (seasonal fruits), rau qua (vegetables), buying appliances, mai dao (knife sharpening), weighing scales and so forth. Their calls were so distinct that everyone could recognise exactly what good or service was on offer.

However over the years, the number of street hawkers has declined dramatically due to government regulations regarding food hygiene, safety and general public relations.

I find this such a shame because street vendors defined Saigon’s wonderful character, as well as providing a great variety of food day-in day-out, all year round.

I do agree that hygiene and food safety are very important, but I hope the government can find solutions allow street hawkers to continue trading. Vietnamese street food is amazing and the sector should be supported into the future.

My wife was the first to introduce me to the food street on Nguyen Thien Thuat between Nguyen Dinh Chieu and Dien Bien Phu in the heart of District 3. I felt like a kid in a candy store because I was surrounded by so much street food that I didn’t know where to start. I wrote about this food street three years ago. And ever since I’ve been searching for a similar street food nearer to my home in District 1.

Enter Hem 200 (Alley 200) situated between Doan Van Bo and Xom Chieu Street in District 4. It is literally minutes from District 1, just across the Khanh Hoi Bridge.

This bustling alley is a Mecca for local street food. I have found pretty much everything I can think of and then some.

But you must come by motorbike otherwise you will not be able to get through the alley. Take your time and stroll by every stall before you order.

Chef, patron and owner of Skewers Restaurant The Elbow Room and Cafe Sweet Street.

Here are some of the more notable and specialised items of Hem 200: Long bo pha lau (Vietnamese stewed with organ meats/intestine) served with a baguette; Banh canh gio heo (thick rich noodle soup with pork hock); Bun mam (Mekong-style rice vermicelli soup with fermented fish and seafood); Chao vit (duck porridge); Mien vit (glass noodle soup with duck); Sup oc cua (crab soup with pig brains) I know what you’re thinking but it is delicious and Com chien dui ga (fried rice with fried chicken leg).

Some other crowd-pleasers are oc (shellfish), especially ngheu hap xa (steamed clams with lemongrass), oc huong (flower snail), either pan-fried with chili or with salt and pepper. Grilled scallop with green onion is another winner, and any type of oc in tamarind or butter sauce is to die for. Other favourites are bot chien (fried rice flour cakes with eggs and green onions), banh trang tron (rice paper salad), hot vit lon and cut lon (duck and quail egg balut) and bun ca (vermicelli fish soup).

Of course there are the old standby dishes, such as goi du du (shredded papaya salad with dried beef, chili, roasted peanuts, thai basil and fish sauce, bun thit nuong (rice noodles with grilled pork), banh mi thit (baguette with meat) and bo la lot (grilled minced beef wrapped in a lo lot leaf). Lo lot leaf is also known as betel and it’s very similar to a grape leaf.

Let’s not forget desserts, such fried banana, fried sweet potatoes, nuoc mia (sugarcane juice), rau ma (freshly-blended pennywort juice), caramel flan, banh bo (chewy sponge cake), assorted che (sweet dessert soup) and fresh coconut juice. To be honest I’ve been down this alley a couple of times and I have barely scratching the surface of what’s available.

Hem 200 Between Doan van Bo & Xom Chieu Street, District 4 Time: 3:00pm until late (4:30pm would be best to start).

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8

CITY DRINKS

ZuZu

48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien Dist 2 www.facebook.com/zuzuconceptstore

Peter Cornish checks out one of Saigon’s best-kept secrets, a quiet little cafe with historic links. Photos by Romain Garrigue.

There’s something special about ZuZu, tucked away down the far end of Tran Ngoc Dien in Thao Dien. A ‘journey out of time in Saigon’ where memories of old Vietnam meet in harmony with the modern. Somewhere to sit and enjoy a morning juice or an afternoon coffee, enveloped in calming tranquillity far away from the noise of nearby streets.

A hidden gem tucked down a small alley offering ample parking, ZuZu Concept Store is homed in an ancient house transported to Ho Chi Minh from central Vietnam. Entering through a door below the architect’s signature and on your right the dark wooden walls are covered in intricate carvings of leaves, traditional patterns and hidden animals.

On the opposite wall the panels are simple and plain, hiding a small kitchen space and an ornate bathroom.

Above the main room sits a small mezzanine, suspended beneath the tiled roof and once used to store family possession in times of flood. At each end of the room, more carved wooden panels hide the concept store selling locally produced gifts, beauty products, organic teas and vintage ceramics. Each collection produced by local artisans and chosen for the story it tells.

Throughout the building sits iconic, modern shelving units, designed around the shape of animals, a rhino, elephant and a bird. The work of designer Olivier Polmanss, co-owner of ZuZu with his partner Tomoko Ukai, the shelves are made from local woods and covered in lacquer. On the shelves sit more 38 AsiaLIFE HCMC

colourful ceramic creations, also the work of Olivier.

Step outside into a small courtyard with chairs and tables providing more space to sit and relax when the inside gets busy. White netted scrimmage hangs from the corners of the courtyard, sheltering it from the sun, and large architectural plants line the walls creating a lush, welcoming environment.

The organic teas from Dalat (VND85,000 for a pot and VND50,000 for a cup) include mixed fruit and black tea, coconut tea, lemon grass and ginger and roasted green tea and are served hot only.

The coffee is from Dak Lak (VND40,000 for an espresso solo to VND68,000 for a cinnamon latte) and also organic, sourced from a Japanese friend of Tomoko.

The cold pressed juices (VND68,000) are delivered fresh daily and for those who fancy something slightly stronger, Te Te beer is newly on tap. Canele (VND35,000) and chocolate brownies (VND48,000) are currently available and an organic vegetarian lunch menu will be launched over the summer months.

Open from 9am to 6pm, ZuZu hosts temporary art exhibitions and regular community events, with a monthly party planned for the future. Owners Tomoko and Olivier set out to create a quiet and peaceful space, taking us on a journey through time and offering a memory of Vietnam. Unlike anywhere else in Thao Dien, they’ve certainly succeeded.

CORK & FORK 3/2 De Tham, District 1 www.facebook.com/CorkandForkbar

Peter Cornish checks out a stylish new wine bar near Saigon’s backpacker district.

Photos by Romain Garrigue.

There’s no shortage of decent beer in town thanks to a thriving craft brew scene, but in reality, there’s a limit to how many pints one can down before starting to feel a little bloated. Conscious of an expanding waistline, we went in search of somewhere chilled and relaxed to enjoy a bottle of red, somewhere that didn’t break the bank, and came across a funky little wine bar down at the bottom end of De Tham.

Opening at the end of last year on a street just starting to build a name for its bars and restaurants, Cork & Fork proprietors Derek Jay and Baptiste Solente have taken a well-calculated plunge setting up shop just a few minutes’ walk from the already popular Whiskey & Wares. Catering for a similarly discerning clientele,

they’re upping the game for a part of town normally associated with the sleaziness of Bui Vien.

The modern wine bar is tastefully yet simply decorated, with dark slate walls and ambient lighting offering a non-pretentious setting to share a carafe of wine and a light bite with a romantic partner or a group of friends.

Comfortable seating lines the walls with tables that can be re-arranged to offer intimacy or a more social setting. Funky jazz grooves play softly in the background, loud enough o be enjoyed but not intrusive to conversation.

The bar is entered through a small outside area with tables, chairs and ample room for parking, then up a step into a Japanese style garden with an open cooking area to one side,

catering for dine-in and takeaway customers.

Choose from French fast food standards of crepes or panini (each VND69,000), from the menu on slips of paper left on your table. Starting with a choice of sweet or savoury, move down the menu selecting a base, a choice of meat or vegetable for the main, then top up with more choices of cheese, vegetables, sauces and side salad.

The sweets are ordered similarly, with crepe (VND58,000) or waffle (half VND45,000 / full VND70,000), and a selection of spreads, fruit and extras such as ice cream or chocolate chips. Build a dessert to eat on your own or share with friends. Also on offer is a generous cheese board with freshly baked bread and a fine selection of continental cheeses.

The wines have been carefully selected and are reasonably priced with Australian, French, Italian, Chilean and Argentinian all featured on the list. A small carafe of house red (cabernet or merlot) or white (sauvignon blanc) will set you back VND210,000 with a large one costing VND320,000. Ciders from France and Hanoi are served deliciously cold and there’s a selection of local craft beers for those not bothered about their waist line.

Brunch special on Sundays features all you can drink bloody marys, house wine and mimosas for VND499,000 from 11:30 till 14:40 and the teachers’ brunch on Monday offers mimosa towers and an ala carte menu. Well worth the effort of walking down the hill.

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JARDIN DES SENS 251 Dien Bien Phu, District 3 // Open daily, 12PM - 2PM, 6.30PM - 10PM. www.facebook.com/JDSSAIGON - www.jdspourcel.com

Lauren Cameron feasts her senses at one of Ho Chi Minh City’s newest fine dining establishments. Photos by Romain Garrigue.

It comes as no surprise that Jacques and Laurent Pourcel’s latest gastronomic venture, Ho Chi Minh City-based Jardin Des Sens, is making waves in the city’s culinary scene after only two months.

The concept is this: delicate, seasonal, homemade fare served in an elegant, exclusive setting; with flavours inspired by the Mediterranean influences of the south of France, the birthplace of founders Jacques and Laurent.

The twin chefs have already found success with restaurants in Shanghai, Casablanca, Paris, Marrakech and Montpellier, France, where the pair first earned international praise – and three Michelin stars. Jardin Des Sens is just one of five restaurants the group plans to open in Saigon over the coming year.

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The venue, in a historic French colonial villa, is stunning, and the utmost care has gone into the finishing touches, such as plates are individually handmade in Monte Carlo, and a limited edition 1.2 metre pepper grinder.

We enjoyed the threecourse Chef’s Market Menu (VND630,000), a lunch menu that changes daily. One could also opt for just two courses for a reasonable VND350,000 - a steal really, considering each service includes a complimentary starter (we enjoyed tasty bites of cheese cookies, fish croquettes, tomato espuma and beetroot jelly fois gras), surprise amuse-bouche and to finish: petit fours, also complementary. Every Jardin Des Sens meal is meat to be an experience – and a generous

one, at that.

Starting with an appetizing vegetable tarte smeared with a full-flavoured Cretin de Chevre AOP, we moved onto mains. For me the crispy red mullet served on a bed of tangy artichoke mousseline, squid and clams was the perfect Sunday lunch, and a perfect segue to dessert – a mascarpone cake layered delicately with apricot sorbet and honeycomb.

Of course, with more than 185 French wines available, generally by the time dessert rolls around diners are well and truly satiated.

Moving onto the a la carte menu… Designed to be presented in sync with its natural environment, the king crab starter (VND600,000) is served raw and smoked upon a bed of coconut snow and lime mousse, with

bursts of champagne jelly, coriander, avocado and lemon, a stark contrast to the spicy bloody mary served with the dish. However, it was the restaurant’s signature Mieral pigeon (VND970,000) that stood out for us. As the cloche lifted, revealing a candied leg and pigeon fillet covered with rich, syrupy cacao jus, we learnt of the history of the dish, whose origins trace back to Louis IVth and his disposition to only consume fillet of pigeon. The wait staffs’ attentive service was perhaps the highlight of the experience for me – in true fine dining fashion, expert knowledge of each dish on the constantly changing menu is drilled into the team of waiters daily.

Reservations are recommended but not essential.

JOURNEYS SANDWICH BISTRO 1st floor, 30-36 Phan Boi Chau, District 1 www.journeyssandwichcafe.com

Annigje Jacobs chows down on some well-travelled bites in District 1.

Photos by Romain Garrigue.

Most of us share the highlights of our trips by telling stories and showing pictures.

Restaurant owner and chef Kevin Nagle takes it a little further. He turns his travel memories into menus, or more precisely, into sandwiches, side dishes and salads.

Kevin opened his aptly named Journeys Sandwich Bistro in 2017. Just a stone’s throw away from his first restaurant Journeys Sandwich Café that was bursting at the seams within a year of opening.

And for good reason: Kevin serves consistently great food.

He takes pride in using only the freshest ingredients: all the meats are roasted in-house, the 10 varieties of bread are freshly baked throughout the day and almost all of the sauces, jams and dressings are homemade.

On the menu of Journeys

Sandwich Bistro, you’ll find around 30 sandwiches plus 10 different salads from around the globe. Every single one is inspired by a place he has visited. “Sometimes people ask me to put an Indian sandwich on the menu,” he said. “But I can’t - I haven’t been there yet.”

Luckily, he has travelled to many places - and we got a taste of five of them. We started with the bestseller: The pulled pork grilled cheese (VND140,000) - a hearty American classic from the memories of this New Yorkborn chef. SO good. Next was the Uruguayan chivito (VND180,000). Deliciously comforting, the tender meat alongside tasty roasted bell pepper, crunchy romaine lettuce and homemade salsa golf. You can’t not finish it even if your stomach tells you you’re

full. Our third sandwich, my personal favourite, was the peri peri chicken (VND130,000).

It’s a little spicy (or very spicy, depending on your taste) and creates a real zing in your mouth. I’ll definitely be back for this beauty.

And Kevin hasn’t overlooked his new home, bringing a taste of Vietnam with four new banh mi variants. We tried the dac biet (VND75,000), which is an excellent example of the chef’s talent of breathing new life into familiar flavours.

All the sandwiches are generously-sized and served with cassava chips and a side of your choice. If you’re not in the mood for bread, try the mouthwatering curry mango chicken salad (VND135,000).

There are plenty of drinks to choose from, too: natural juices, smoothies, coffee,

craft beer and heavenly cocktails. The tropical boost (VND50,000), coconut coffee (VND70,000) and Mekong sling (VND155,000) were all delightful.

Kevin’s high standards don’t only apply to his servings but also to his service. He puts a lot of time and effort in the development of his staff. And it shows. His lovely employees welcome every customer with a genuine smile, they’re knowledgeable and always ready to help and advise.

You’ll find Journeys Sandwich Bistro in the heart of the city, right next to Ben Thanh Market.

Enter through the eyecatching gold shop and take the stairs to the first floor. You can’t miss it. And you wouldn’t want to - it’s a real taste of the world.

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Barbara Adam takes a sneak peak at the very latest in “affordable luxury” at a new resort in the heart of the Mekong Delta.

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zerai is derived from the Persian word caravanserai, a resting place laid out around a central courtyard.

Azerai Can Tho, still in the soft opening phase, is a very comfortable resting place indeed, laid out on an eight-hectare islet in the Hau River.

The new resort is the brainchild of Indonesian hotelier Adrian Zecha, founder of the super-luxury hotel group Aman Resorts International.

In his mid-80s, the hotelier is planning a chain of Azerai resorts in “places of unique beauty and cultural interest”. In his Can Tho property, he introduces travellers to the timeless beauty of the Mekong Delta culture.

Resort architect Pascal Trahan and interior designer Joe Sanya worked together to create a idyllic and airy sanctuary, set amongst banyan trees and lush gardens.

The 60 rooms at Azerai Can Tho offer garden, lake or river views. The riverview rooms interconnect to provide convenient two-bedroom two-bathroom accommodation perfect for families.

Natural finishes are a key aspect of the design, with bamboo, wood and linen featured throughout, from the airy poolside cafe to the yoga pavilion and luxurious spa.

The resort is only accessible by boat, and Azerai has a luxurious high-ceilinged reception centre and a private pier on the Can Tho side of the river. From here, it’s takes just a few minutes to get to the resort,

and the boat is available 24 hours a day to transport guests from the resort to Can Tho. The “resting place” theme is handled elegantly. Every room has comfortable indoor and outdoor lounging areas, and complementary snacks and tea and coffee further soothe the weary traveller.

There are more loungers by the pools.

The larger central pool sits between the cafe and the bar, the smaller child-friendly pool is alongside the Kid Zone facility, which houses a plethora of games, crafts and activities.

Executive Chef Sagar Iyer presides over another level of soul-soothing, with a selection of culinary masterpieces inspired by the local cuisine. His tasting platters should not be missed.

Attention to details is evident in every aspect of the Azerai Can Tho experience, from the Nespresso machine in the rooms to the tall glasses of ice water that magically appear by your lounger when you take a dip in the pool.

These details, and the friendly and personalised service, are overseen by veteran hotelier Susan Noonan, who helped set up Six Senses Con Dao. Azerai Can Tho is just a three-hour drive from Ho Chi Minh City, and the resort can organise a transfer in a comfortable sevenseat SUV. www.azerai.com.

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he signature style of Sinhtolina are flowing open-back maxi dresses, suitable not only for Saigon’s weather but any warm season anywhere.

The label was started by Nha Trang-born interior designer Leo in 2014. Her partner, fashion photographer Laura, from northern Spain, joined the company last year.

Leo says her “expressive and unapologetically fun dresses” are for everyday wear, beach-time, summer vacation or weddings.

“I was a young woman cutting sleeves and holes in my clothes to create new and original looks and this cultivated a spirit of liberty that informs my fashion practice today,” she said. “I am an interior designer by training, a practice that makes my approach a bit more oriented to the materials rather than design.”

Laura said her mother encouraged her to follow her passions from a young age.

“Later, I joined the Art School of Oviedo to study artistic photography, and this was the best decision I ever made,” she said. “There I worked to find my own voice and style, guided by talented professionals, and consequently, my photographic point of view became very particular.”

“After graduation, I earned a Ph.D in fashion photography that propelled me into my new career, from model agencies and fashion brands in Spain, across the world to Sinhtolina in Vietnam. Instantly, I fell in love. This was everything I ever wanted. I found an extremely talented partner with whom I share ideas on beauty and fashion. Together, we focus on the natural beauty of women, emphasising easy-to-wear fashion and high-quality materials.” www.facebook.com/Sinhtolina.

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listings

hotel & travel CON DAO Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 0254 4830 939 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities and tours.

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 0254 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villa has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.

DALAT Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 0263 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La

Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat Tel: 0263 383 1515 www.dalatedensee.com Nestled in the heart of the “Black Forest of Vietnam” and discretely hidden along the waterfront of Tuyen Lam Lake, this resort is a perfect launching point for exploring the Highland region. It has two fine-dining restaurants, a café and terrace, a cigar lounge, and golfing and tennis.

Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 0263 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

HANOI

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 024 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 024 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick

Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 024 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 024 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY

Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 028 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 / Tel: 028 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym,

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outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

swimming pools; library; and tennis, basketball and badminton courts.

Renaissance Riverside 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 028 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com 349 rooms/suites with panoramic views over Saigon River. Conference/banquet facilities, rooftop pool, gym, two restaurants.

NHA TRANG

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 / Tel: 028 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel: Level 23 bar, Mojo café, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 / Tel: 028 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

HUE, HOI AN & DANANG

InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula Tel: 0236 393 8888 danang.intercontinental.com A world of poetic experiences and jungle-clad romance in a place that cloaks you with luxury. The mastery of traditional Vietnamese design meets modern architectural flair in this distinctive retreat within the dense rainforest of mythical Monkey Mountain.

Nam Hai Tel: 0235 3940 000 www.ghmhotels.com/en/namhai/ Luxury resort accommodation from single villas to sumptuous five-room dwellings with private pools. Facilities include 8 private spa villas; 3 beachfront

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 0258 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa / Tel: 0258 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms, divided into villas and condos, catering by well-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito's bar.

PHAN THIET

Princess D’Ânnam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan.

Tel: 0252 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 0252 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

SCUBA DIVING

Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional

Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 0908 781 756 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 0258 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co. with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services.

TRAVEL AGENTS

Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: Level 8 157 Pasteur, D3 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District Tel: 024 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com Tailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

EXO Travel HCMC: 41, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3519 4111 saigonagency@exotravel.com HANOI: 3rd Fl, 66A, Tran Hung Dao Hoan Kiem Tel: 024 3828 2150 hanoiagency@exotravel.com www.traveltrade.exotravel.com

M A R L B O R O U G H C O L L E G E M A L AY S I A

A Great British Education

Located in 90 acres of South-East Asia Pupils are taught a British curriculum from British educators who know the value of heritage and tradition. For over 170 years Marlborough College has been synonymous with a first-class British education. Now in 90 acres of South-East Asia we

offer our pupils the same opportunity to learn and to grow from the wisdom of those who have gone before them. We are a co-educational Preparatory and Senior School offering an outstanding education for pupils aged 4-18.

For details of our forthcoming Admissions Events visit: w w w . m a r l b o r o u g h c o l l e g e . m y

listings

food & drink DISTRICT 1 Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 028 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 028 3823 8424 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 028 5410 1093 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Anan Saigon 89 Ton That Dam, District 1 Serves up some incredible modern Vietnamese food thanks to chef and owner Peter Coung Franklin. The restaurant and rooftop bar’s name means ‘eat-eat’, and that’s certainly what the menus encourage you to do.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 028 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Bamboo Chic Le Meridien, 3C Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 028 6263 6688 Slick, minimalistic restaurant boasting a stunning view of the Saigon River as well as a menu of high­quality cuisine that mixes Japanese and coastal Chinese styles. Worth a visit, even if it’s just for a cocktail.

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, corner of Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts.

Wood-fired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Bep Me In 136/9 Let Thanh Ton, D1 Home-cooked Vietnamese dishes from all regions of Vietnam, with no MSG, just like you’d be served at a family party in the countryside.

Boulevard Grill Bar Leman Luxury Apartments, 22 Truong Dinh, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City boulevardgrill.com.vn Boulevard might look a little like a cafe in a shopping centre, but the two Vietnamese chefs in the kitchen send out fine dining-style dishes. The comprehensive menu carries a wide array of excellent steaks, salads, pastas and other grilled items.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1

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94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea. 

T: +84 28 3822 9357 E: rese.hcm@koto.com.au This is the Saigon arm of the renowned organisation that began in Hanoi a decade ago. Vietnamese food is prepared with innovative twist by young people Koto are helping get a start in the hospitality industry and on a path for a better life.

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia.

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 028 3823 2223 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Kissho boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

Fork Saigon 15 Dong Du, District 1 Tel: 028 3823 3597 www.forksaigon.com An eclectic tapas-style restaurant that draws inspiration from all over the world, rather than just Spain. Tasty small plates to share, great set lunch deals and fantastic happy hour drink specials.

Guanabana 23 Ly Tu Trong, District 1 Tel: 09 09 82 48 30 Guanabana brings a California approach with its all-natural range of healthy smoothies. The smoothies are available in three varieties and are priced between VND 45,000 and VND 65,000.

Heart of Darkness Craft Brewery 31D Ly Tu Trong, D 1 while Heart of Darkness remains the brewery it always was and always will be, it’s now gaining a well-earned reputation as a place to chow down on some pretty decent grub.

Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

In Saigong Rooftop Bar 27-29 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 Tel: 028 9934 4350 The city’s only Wollongong-themed bar, this rooftop bar is a relaxing place to undwind with local and craft beers, cocktails and a varied menu.

Jake’s BBQ 50 Pasteur Street, D1 Tel: 028 3825 1311 Genuine, warm service from Chef Jake himself sets this American Barbeque joint apart. A true slice of Americana in Vietnam. Large portions, smoked meats, and the only ‘Jucy Lucy’ burger in town!  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 028 3822 9926 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Dist 1, HCMC Tel: 028 3827 0931 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. The Dong Khoi branch has recently beed enovated with new menu and decor.



Kay’s Vegan Bistro Hem 84 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 090 395 81 69 Homemade vegan delights from all over Southeast Asia and beyond. With daily specials and ingredients available to take home, it’s a hit with the locals.

Koto 19 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Da Kao Ward, Di1

La Brasserie 2nd Floor, Hotel Nikko Saigon 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 028 3925 7777 Offers wide international buffet stations for breakfast and dinner. Nightly live music performance.

La Chola de Lima 74 Hai Ba Trung, D 1 www.lacholadelima.com Tel: 028 3823 8793 The long-awaited newcomer to the food-centric courtyard at 74 Hai Ba Trung, the diversity of Peruvian cuisine is celebrated with a fusion menu showcasing Creole, Japanese and Chinese flavours.

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 028 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway, decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 028 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100k VND. Mad Cow Wine and Grill Level 30, Pulman Hotel, 148 Tran Hung Dao Street, D 1 Tel: 028 3838 8639 Casual, almost a homely style of cuisine, and sourced primarily from Australia. “We pride ourselves on great steaks and seafood, with a grass-fed orientated menu” according to Danny Grimshaw, chef and butcher at Mad Cow. Malt 46 – 48 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 09 1848 4763 American-style bar that offers good beer, shuffleboard and an interesting pub grub menu in a casual setting.

Manmaru 71 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Japanese izakaya with a solid lineup of affordable beers, sakes and whiskies.

Whether you choose the casual, pub­like experience downstairs, or the formal dining terrace upstairs, expect excellent food and even better prices.

Service is friendly and efficient and always welcoming.

May Restaurant & Bar 19-21 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 028 6291 3686 may.restaurant19@gmail.com We have over 20 years experience in hospitality business in Vietnam with some famous Brand such as Shodow Bar & Café and MAY Restaurant & Bar.

MAY- short for ‘Me and You’, it is all in one premium casual kitchen & bar downtown. Located centrally on the historic Dong Khoi street with a fusion of Western and Asian cuisine and pride themselves in their wine list and international standard of service.

Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Ming Court 3rd Floor, Hotel Nikko Saigon 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 028 3925 7777 Featuring authentic Chinese cuisine and a wide selection of delectable All-youcan-eat Dim Sum. Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end café with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs.

Good business coffee or lunch venue.

Mountain Retreat 36 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 90 719 45 57 A rustic restaurant perched above downtown offering a secluded getaway and tasty traditional food.

NAMO Tuscan Grill 146-148 Pasteur, D 1 Tel; 08 3822 1431 Focussing on rustic Italian fare coming off of their custom-built wood-fired grill. The layout is open and relaxed, reflecting the colour and energy of Florence and the Tuscany region.

Old Compass Cafe 3rd Floor 63/11 Pasteur St, D1 (next to Liberty Citypoint Hotel) Tel: +848 3827 2878 The Old Compass Café has managed to position itself as a quiet oasis of calm amidst the city’s chaos. The menu is simple and offers a choice of breakfast, lunch dinner, gourmet sandwiches, pastries and desserts.

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Quan Bui Add 1: 17A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 028 38 29 15 15 Add 2: 55 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 From the team behind Quan Bui, the popular casual Vietnamese eatery on the north edge of District 1, is this fourfloor fine-dining restaurant in downtown Saigon. The chic design and ambience, as well as its rooftop garden, are designed to attract a more up-market clientele.

Quan Ut Ut 168 Vo Van Kiet, D1 Tel: 028 39 14 45 00 American-style barbecue meets Vietnam-style dining with big wooden tables and benches that are reminiscent of an open-air quan. Serving a wide range of smoked and barbecued meats.

Quince 37bis Ky Con, D1

Tel: 2838 21 8661 Sister restaurant to Quince Bangkok, serving high-end cuisene developed by chef Julien Perraund working from the open kitchen. A short simple menu based on fresh local produce.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 - 23 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 028 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world.

Private rooms are available.

Relish and Sons 44 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 012 07 214 294 105-107 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 90 900 4294 Facebook.com/RelishAndSons Burgers are the stars of the show in Relish & Sons, with six varieties, all composed of different but expertly combined ingredients.  Romeo and Juliet Times Square Building, 57 – 69F Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 028 38 236 688 TheReverieSaigon.com Underground restaurant of the newlyopened Reverie Saigon, Romeo and Juliet is reinventing local dining to encourage the kind of slower, savourthe-moment experience that allows guests to enjoy the space’s ambiance, food and top-notch service.

Royal Pavilion Reverie Saigon Hotel, 4th Floor, 22 36 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 028 3823 6688 Located in the Reverie Saigon Hotel, the Royal Pavilion serves up classic Cantonese cuisine in fine dining style.

Featuring a menu of epic proportions, there is sure to be something for everyone.

Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 028 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu. Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 028 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Sancho’s Craft Beer and Mexican Kitchen 207 Bui Vien, D1 090 126 82 26 Real Mexi-Cali food with passion, served with a selection of crafts beers.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 028 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab.

Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas. Stoker Woodfired Grill & Bar 44 Mac Thi Buoi, D1

Tel: 090 729 2725 District 1 venue with spacious bar downstairs and upstairs dining room.

Serving a full selection of home aged US and Australian beef complimented by a delicious sides.

Tomatito 171 Calmette, D1 Tomatito is all about the sexy, from the bold and colourful Spanish-themed interior showcasing El Willy’s unique personality, to the hot Latin passion in his interpretation of traditional Spanish tapas.

Tandoor 39A-39B Ngo Duc Ke, D1 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events.  The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 028 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

The Racha Room 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 09 08 791 412 RachaRoom.com.vn With street and hawker specialties from Thailand prepared under one roof – and in one room – The Racha Room is a restaurant-cum-lounge fit for a king.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 028 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Tuk Tuk Thai Bistro 17/11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 028 35 21 85 13 Tuktukthaibistro.com Tuk Tuk, a chic new modern Thai bistro. With three floors of seating, an open-air roof area and an array of Thai dishes to excite your palate.

Union Jack’s Fish and Chips Upper Deck, 130 Ton That Dam, D1 Jack’s Fish & Chips is a tribute to this traditional British fare that harks back to the childhood of owner Matt Ryan, who grew up on the A30 road from London.

Urban Kitchen + Bar 18 Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 028 62 506 363 UrbanKitchenBar.com Urban Kitchen takes a nuanced approach to Western cuisine, producing an eclectic compilation of regional North American dishes – whether it’s comfort food of the American south, Quebecois specialties or East Coast-inspired.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine.Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

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ambience, with a gorgeous garden setting designed to attract a more upmarket clientele.

Buddha Bar

D2 By Darren Gall

IMBIBE THE VINEYARD WHISPERERS Believe it or not there was a time when being “traditional” was levelled at wineries as a criticism and not a compliment.

Towards the end of last century, as modern science and computer technology gave us a broader understanding of what was happening in our vineyards and wineries and greater control over the processes of vineyard management and winemaking, the winemaker and in turn the board of directors had more ability to plan and control the outcomes of a vintage.

Then came the rise of the flying winemakers, who could manage a winery’s winemaking programme remotely and fly in when necessary.

Soon the superstars of this new form of winemaking were working for hundreds of wineries around the globe, often bringing new technology and specialised software with them.

The immediate impact was a lift in the overall ripeness and quality of the grapes being harvested and the wines they produced. In the areas where this technology and its crusaders practiced widely, we saw the virtual elimination of some wine faults due to canopy or disease issues in the vineyard or poor practices in the winery.

In time, what emerged was a sameness, a sort of homogenisation of the wines available It was as if everyone was working from the same cookbook

and the wines started to taste like they came from a test tube in a laboratory.

This phenomenon has seen, over the last decade, the emergence of a new form of flying winemaker, consultants who work hard on the vineyard and frown upon intervention in the winery, whose goal is expressing the true terroir of the site in their wines instead of winning medals and getting high scores.

In Bordeaux, these are winemakers such as Stephen Derenoncourt, who works with some of the most famous vineyards in Bordeaux’s Right Bank, like Clos Fortet and across the Atlantic in California, where he has his own label – he is regarded by the wine media as one of the greatest winemakers on the planet.

Then there is Thibault Despagne, who works with some of Bordeaux’s less prestigious sub-regions and has fast gained a reputation for divining new levels of fruit and wine quality.

In something of a Hegelian dialectic, we had the traditional regional practices that sprang from a time when the world was much more isolated (thesis), the globalisation and a rapid overcorrection to modern technology and techniques being universally adopted (antithesis), and finally the a consensus where sustainable viticulture and a more natural approach to winemaking is producing wines that express both high quality and a sense of place (synthesis).

Darren Gall has spent a quarter of a century involved in virtually every aspect of the wine industry and the passionate pursuit of the next great bottle continues. gall.darren@yahoo.com.

52 AsiaLIFE HCMC

7 Thao Dien, D2 // Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise. 

BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrellashaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room.

With revamped menu which includes a mix of family-style meals with Mexican featuring predomominately, followed by Italian and Asian fare.  Bia Craft 90 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2588 A cozy bar serving beer­themed snacks and some of the best craft ales in Saigon. Constantly buzzing with the friendly chat of local expats in the area.

District Federal 84 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Serving only the very best Mexican (not Tex-Mex) food, Mexican chef Luis Reyes creates the menu. Luis’s menu focuses on homemade and authentic Mexican food.

Ebisu 66 Song Hanh, D2 028 6276 8787 The city’s soba noodle specialists bring authenticity and professional service to the Japanese table. Sushi and grilled skewers are also specialities, DTwo Sports Bar 55­57 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3519 4138 Stylish non­smoking sports bar offering all the latest action on a choice of widescreen TVs. Perfect for sports fans who are looking for a cold pint and big portions from a tempting pub grub menu. Mad House 6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien, D2 Founded in 2015 by a couple of dedicated foodies from Denmark, Mad House has become known for its northern European style of honest, unpretentious comfort food as much as its homely yet stylish environment.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches.

Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  Thai Street 26 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 08 6654 9525 Authentic Thai menu in a casual garden setting.

Quan Bui Garden 55 Ngo Quang Huy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3898 9088 From the team behind Quan Bui, this D2 spot has all the chic design and

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

DISTRICT 3 Boulevard Bar and Grill Leman Luxury Apartments, 22 Truong Dinh, D3 Cha Ca La Vong 3 Ho Xuan Huong, D3 Tel: 028 3930 5674 36 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 028 3915 3343 Two HCM City outposts of the legendary Hanoi original serve only one dish: the eponymous and delicious cha ca la vong, fish pan-fried at the table with turmeric and dill and served with cold noodles and peanuts.

Com Nieu 19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 028 3932 6288 The house specialty, com nieu (smashed rice), comes with a shattered-crockery and flying-rice show at this well-known restaurant, prominently featured in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour. An extensive and tasty selection of southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the menu.

DISTRICT 5 Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 028 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

DISTRICT 7 Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 028 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

Speakeasy S35-1 Le Van Thiem, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 093 722 11 03 The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 028 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.  Q.itchen Factory 2nd floor, Lot DVTM-9, Road 7, Tan Thuan Export Processing Zone, D7.

Viva Tapas Bar & Grill 90 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 028 54 106 721 Tucked away on a quiet street in Phu My Hung, Viva is colourful and welcoming and has both indoor and outdoor seating. Tapas make up the bulk of the menu and cover traditional dishes as well as a few house

specialties that put a quirky twist on things. 

at home DELIVERY

Patty’s Kitchen www.facebook.com/ homecookhealthyfood Home-made meals for pick-up or delivery.

nightlife See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Saigon Saigon Bar Rooftop via 9th floor, Caravelle Saigon Hotel, 19 - 23 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 028 3823 4999 A great iconic bar to watch the sun go down over the city skyline, or dance the night away. The panoramic views of the city are spectacular, particularly in the evenings. Live entertainment nightly with Cuban band Q’vans except Tuesday from 9:00pm till late.

BAKERIES Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery.

Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 028 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

Established 1997

www.vietnammm.com A free website that allows users to order delivery from dozens of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City.

Simply provide your address and phone number and pay the delivery driver in cash when he arrives

GROCERIES

Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 028 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2630 Takashimaya Saigon Center 65 Le Loi, D1 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products. Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor.

Cosy café serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches.

Kim Hai Butchery 46 Nguyen Thai Binh, D1 C Tel: 028 3914 4376 This town is definitely big enough for two Australian butchers. Reasonably M priced imported beef, fish, chicken, and more at this original neighbourhood Y fixture.

SSC is the official Vietnam distributor for Vogmask - the first stylish, high efficiency, well-fitting, comfortable face mask in the world with n99 filtration and carbon filter.

Always in stock an extensive range of quality imported helmets in all styles and sizes including Vemar, Project, Roof, Vega USA, TDC and more

CM

SAiGON

Meatworks Butchery MY 1, Street 2, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2565 CY Imported meats from Australia, including top-quality beef and lamb, CMY and locally sourced pork and chicken..

Proudly Australian owned and K managed.

MegaMart An Phu, D2 Tel: 028 3740 6677 Tan Thoi Hiep, D12 Tel: 028 3717 2979 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares-basically everything.

Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 arlene@organikvn.com www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported allnatural products.

SCOOTER CENTRE RENTALS

NEW

• We now offer long term discounted scooter rentals.

• New stock includes a wide range of models including 50cc.

• No license needed - 16 years and older for 50cc scooters • Full service package included , delivery option available.

• We also specialise in Saigon to Hanoi rentals with 1 way drop off.

For more info - rentals@saigonscootercentre.com

Phuong Ha 58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 028 3914 1318 A mini-supermarket that sells an extensive assortment of imported packaged food, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and fine wines.

Veggy’s 14 Pham Hong Thai, D1 Tel: 028 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Popular expat market with a walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

Vietnam’s only 100% foreign owned and fully licenced 1-stop scooter shop 151 Luong Dinh Cua , Phuong Binh An , District 2 , HCM City..

Open every day 9.00am until 8.30pm. Tel : 0903013690 AsiaLIFE HCMC 53 www.saigonscootercentre.com For more info - info@saigonscootercentre.com

listings By Phil Kelly

FITNESS BREATHE EASY FOR BETTER HEALTH While I’ve written a lot about nutrition and the absorption of macro and the conventional micro nutrients (minerals and vitamins), I haven’t talked much about negative micro nutrients.

Our bodies absorb pollutants and toxins in the air the same way we absorb nutrients from food and beverages. These toxins and pollutants do a wide range of damage to our system and thus need to be processed, assimilated and excreted from the body. You should consider everything you absorb as nutrition and attempt to limit exposure to toxins whether it is air pollution or artificial foodstuffs.

There are so many things to love about Vietnam but pollution in the two main cities isn’t one of them. The environment ministry’s study between 2011 and 2015 found the air quality has become much worse. Hoang Duong Tung, the deputy director of the Vietnam Environment Administration, said traffic and industrial activities are major sources of air pollution in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

Approximately 140 new cars and 750 new motorbikes are registered every day in HCMC. The Real-time Air Quality Index on aqicn.org this morning at 7am ranked the pollution level in HCMC as “Good (42)” and Hanoi as “Moderate (108)”.

However, as the cities come to life and traffic increases, so does the pollution reaching an average range between “unhealthy for sensitive groups” and “unhealthy”.

If you live in heavy traffic areas the reading will be higher again.

These readings are high enough to warrant action to protect your health.

One lifestyle blogger recommends not living in HCMC or Hanoi for more than two years… MAX! To me this is a very extreme view especially when you can take action to limit your exposure. For example

only perform exercise outside in the early hours of the morning when levels are lower, wear an air pollution mask when near traffic areas and have a clean home environment by obtaining an air purifier.

We spend the majority of our lives indoors… on average 86% of our time is spent indoors (The National Human Activity Pattern Survey). Whether you are healthy, sick, young, or old, everyone can benefit from an air purifier. Every home contains environmental toxins, even ones that are often cleaned thoroughly. It is proven that the air inside our homes can be more harmful than the air outside because air in the home recirculates and never has the opportunity to be filtered.

Air purifiers can also reduce the spread of illnesses and viruses like the common cold or the flu.

They are very beneficial to people with low immune systems, like the elderly, and families with children because they lower the spread of illness.

Air ionisers and HEPA (high efficiency particulate air) filters are the most commonly used air purifiers. Air ionisers distribute negative ions throughout the air causing the toxins to bond and fall out of the air. HEPA filters draw the air in using a fan, where it filters the air, and redistributes it back throughout the house.

In our society today there is more pollution now than there ever was before, especially in the home – I have them in my home and fitness studio. I believe air purifiers are essential because they greatly reduce your exposure to toxins and pollution meaning your body is under less stress. Air purifiers are one of the best things you can invest in for your home and your health today more than ever.

Phil Kelly is a health practitioner and expert in body transformation. His services are available at Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com).

54 AsiaLIFE HCMC

sports & leisure

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF DANCING

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 028 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Salsa package for single persons and couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm). Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA

AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment.

Available for party hire - BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 028 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge work-out area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 028 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY

Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 0263 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees. Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009-yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 0251 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards.

The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city.

The Bluffs Ho Tram Strip Phuoc Thuan, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria - Vung Tau Tel: 064 378 8666 http://thebluffshotram.com/ info@thebluffshotram.com Designed by Greg Norman, The Bluffs is a 50-hectare 18 hole links-style golf course associated with The Grand Ho Tram Strip integrated resort, about a 2.5 hour drive from Ho Chi Minh City.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0274 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

LEISURE

Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals.

Also hosts events and birthdays.

listings

health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

American Chiropractic Clinic 161 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 028 3939 3930 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treatsback pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 028 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Care 1 Executive Health Care Center in the Manor is the main facility for health screening and wellness check-ups.

To fit into your busy life, Care 1 offers one stop service - modern, comprehensive healthcare services and state-of the-art facilities all in one place.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons.

DENTAL

Accadent 39 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 6267 6666 A clinic that brings leading German dentistry to Vietnam. All dentists here were trained in Germany and all equipment comes from Germany to ensure proper hygiene and quality.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 24 Thao Dien, D2 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 028 3822 6222 With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. With the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

Minh Khai Dental Clinic 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 028 3925 3399 nhakhoaminhkhai@gmail.com www.nhakhoaminhkhai.com No.1 Dental Clinic 51 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 028 3929 0909 nhakhoano1@gmail.com www.nhakhoano1.com Located in District 10, No.1 offers general dentistry services include fillings, checkups and teeth cleaning and specialist

dental care that includes dental implants, orthodontics (braces), endodontics (root canals), prosthodontics (false teeth, including dentures, crowns and veneers) and cosmetic dentistry, such as laser teeth whitening.

West Coast Dental Clinic 27 Nguyen Ba Lan, D2 Tel: 028 3519 1777 www.westcoastinternational.com

PEOPLE AT HEART

CENTRE MÉDICAL INTERNATIONAL Fondation Alain Carpentier

MEDICAL Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 028 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynecology, pediatrics, ophthalmology, psychology, psychiatry, osteopathy, acupuncture and psychomotor therapy. .

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3822 7848 95 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2000 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

ÊTRE PROCHES DE NOS PATIENTS RENFORCE LA QUALITÉ DE NOS SOINS

BEING CLOSE TO OUR PATIENTS STRENGTHENS THE QUALITY OF OUR CARE

VIỆC GẦN GŨI VỚI BỆNH NHÂN NHẰM TĂNG CHẤT LƯỢNG DỊCH VỤ CHĂM SÓC

General and tropical medicine • Pediatrics • Cardiology • Obstetrics/Gynecology • Traditional oriental medicine • Psychiatry • Psychology • Osteopathic medicine • Psychomotor therapy • Speech and language therapy • Childbirth education classes • Home nurse service •

HANH PHUC, International Hospital Binh Duong boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 3636068 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a comSKINCARE prehensive range of quality healthcare 120x85mm.indd 1 services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer, Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving from HCMC. HANH PHUC International Hospital Clinic 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 028 3925 9797 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive range of services specializing in Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics, Immunization, General Practice and Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm.

Raffles Medical Clinic 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 028 3845 4218 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 028 3910 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

Open with doctors on call 24/7.

01 Han Thuyen, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: (84.28) 3827 23 66/67 - Fax: (84.28) 3827 23 65 Email: info@cmi-vietnam.com

The Body Shop 216 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 028 3820 5845 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 028 3823 3683119 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 028 3923 2918 Parkson CT Plaza, Tan Binh Tel: 028 6297 2095 Parkson Cantavil, D2 Tel: 028 6296 0265 Diamond Plaza, D1 Tel: 028 3822 1887 check out more outlet via website www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

The Face Shop 81 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 028 3829 3058 Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3507 0800 Vincom 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 028 3936 9308 Parkson Cantavil, D2 Tel: 028 37407180 check out more outlet via website www.thefaceshop.com.vn Stamford Skin Centre 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1

Tel: 028 3925 1990 www.stamfordskin.com The Stamford Skin Centre has grown to include qualified specialists who treat 3/16/2018 8:44:08 AM general diseases of the skin such as acne, eczema and other forms of dermatitis, rosacea, psoriasis, skin cancers.

Offering treatments for simple blemishes and outbreaks on a person’s face, a long standing melasma, acne scars, wrinkles or sagging skin that if treated, removed, or substantially improved.

listings

family ACTIVITIES

Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D 2 Tel: 028 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events

AsiaLIFE HCMC 55

available on-line.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes for kids from age six.

BABY EQUIPMENT

By Shannon Brown

EDUCATION HUB WHAT IS REGGIO EMILIA? In 1991, the American newspaper Newsweek described one of the 32 preschools in Reggio Emilia, Italy, as “more like a cheerful greenhouse than a public kindergarten”. Since then, the method pioneered in this small Italian town has gained popularity throughout the world. There are now more than 30 international networks which host conferences and seminars and send study tours to Reggio Emilia each year. But what is this method?

To understand the approach,we can read the words of founder Loris Malaguzzi’s book, The Hundred Languages of Children. First, a Reggioinspired school must provide a large range of experiences and materials for children, so they can express themselves freely. “The wider the range of possibilities we offer children, the more intense will be their motivations and the richer their experiences.

We must widen the range of topics and goals, the types of situations we offer and their degree of structure, the kinds and combinations of resources and materials, and the possible interactions with things, peers, and adults.”

Second, a Reggio-inspired school must document the children’s learning process. This can occur through written or filmed observations, photographs, and the children’s work itself. “Teachers must leave behind an isolated, silent mode of working, which leaves no traces. Instead

they must discover ways to communicate and document the children’s evolving experiences at school.”

Third, a Reggio-inspired school sees every child as an artist with innate intelligence and encourages creativity and sensory learning. Most programmes that use the Reggio model make the environment a top priority, as it is considered an equal teacher. Parents and the community also play an important role, as does the in-school kitchen and taking the children’s interests into consideration throughout the day. Teachers lead children in “guided discovery” and allow children choices about where and how to play.

As Reggio Emilia inspired preschools make their way through Asia and Vietnam, it is important to understand that each country will “do” Reggio in a different way.

“The environment should act as an aquarium which reflects the ideas, ethics, attitudes and culture of the people who live in it. This is what we are working towards.” The Reggio approach makes room for culture to influence the actual implementation in the school.

The Reggio Emilia method is an innovative and somewhat unconventional approach which will suit some families more than others. When deciding on a preschool for your child, it is vital to visit the school and meet the people your child will build relationships with throughout their learning journey.

Shannon Brown works in international education in Ho Chi Minh City and has a background in social work, public heath, and early childhood education.

56 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Maman Bebe L2-11, Vincom Quang Trung, Go Vap 3rd Flr Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza, D5 L2-11K, Vincom 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 52-54 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 191 Hoang Van Thu, Phu Nhuan S11-1 Sky Garden 1, Phu My Hung, D7 The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

CLOTHES

Albetta 32 Tran Ngoc Dien D2 58 Nguyen Duc Canh, Tan Phong, D7 Albetta is a British family owned company, with a factory in Saigon, which produces beautifully designed and handcrafted clothes, gifts, shoes and accessories for children. Their new Lucky Luca collection shown are available in Albetta shops now.

DLS Paris Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Little Anh – Em 41 Thao Dien, D2 A French brand made in Vietnam offering a wide selection of colourful, simply packaged and thoughtfully collated “sets” of garments for girls and boys from newborn to 10 years old. Lifestyle pieces also available include sleeping bags, bedroom accessories and bags.

Ninh Khuong 42 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 71B Dong Khoi, D1 22 Nguyen Trai, D1 344 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 343 Hai Ba Trung, D1 27 Le Van Sy, Phu Nhuan www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 028 5431 33/34/35/36 office@theabcis.com www.theabcis.com Judged “an outstanding school” by British Government Inspectors, the ABCIS is accredited by CIE, AQA and Education Development Trust and members of COBIS and FOBISIA. Serving 2-18 year olds in a caring environment, it delivers

a globally valued curriculum based on best UK practice. This culminates in the award of IGCSEs and A levels from the Cambridge and AQA examination boards. These “gold standard certifications” afford entrance to the very best universities around the world.

American International School 220 Nguyen Van Tao, Nha Be, HCMC Tel: 028 3780 0909 www.ais.edu.vn info@ais.edu.vn Established since 2006, American International School is a private school serving students from Preschool through grade 12. Operate on 2 campuses, the school offers innovative American curriculum with true Vietnamese heritage.

All students are well prepared for academic success appropriate to their needs and aspirations in the US and around the world.

The Australian International School Xi Campus (Kindergarten) 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 028 35192727 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Primary School) 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Middle & Senior School) 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) An Phu ward, D2 Tel: 028 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with 3 class campuses in District 2, HCMC, offering an international education from Kindergarten to Senior School with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programe (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

British International School www.bisvietnam.com Early Years and Infant Campus 101, Thao Dien Street, District 2.

Junior Campus 225 Nguyen Van Huong Street, District 2.

Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2335 BIS HCMC is the largest international school in Vietnam and operates from three purpose-built campuses in the residential area of District 2, catering for students from pre-school to 18 years of age. The school provides a broad, balanced and differentiated curriculum to within the framework of the National Curriculum for England. Staffed primarily by British qualified teachers with a minimum of 3 years’ experience. Students are prepared for both IGCSE & the IB Diploma programmes. BIS is a member of FOBISIA & fully accredited by the Council of International Schools.

EUROPEAN International School 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien.Tel: 028 7300 7257 www.eishcmc.com jura.cullen@cantab.net The EUROPEAN International School Ho Chi Minh City (EIS) offers an international education from Early Years through Primary and Secondary School. EIS is committed to educating students to become creative critical thinkers and problem solvers. In small student centred classes, students are immersed in a multicultural learning environment which values multilingualism. The language of instruction throughout the School is English; the language program includes Spanish, German, French and Vietnamese.

By Paul McLardie

PERSONAL FINANCE PENSION PITFALLS (PART 2) Last month I outlined two of the five pension pitfalls people encounter. Here are the final three.

Not Minding Asset Location and Sequence of Withdrawals Tax management is one of the few variables that we investors can exert any control over, but I’m often surprised at how many investors overlook this valuable lever as they manage their own pre-retirement and in retirement programmes.

So in addition to giving due attention to how much you withdraw from your retirement accounts, it’s also important to consider how you draw, in which accounts you’ll hold various types of assets and your withdrawal sequence.

By minding asset location, you’ll be able to reduce the tax on your take-home return.

Paying attention to withdrawal sequencing can help stretch out the tax-savings benefits that accrue to investments held in company retirement plans and tax-efficient wrappers.

Missing the Mark With Asset Allocation Thus far, the focus has been mainly on mistakes related to withdrawal strategies, but at the risk of stating the obvious, the composition of your preretirement and in retirement portfolio notably, its mix of stocks, bonds, and cash-will also have a huge impact on the sustainability of your nest egg. In the recent bear market, many retirement-aged investors learned the hard way the risks of holding a stock-

heavy portfolio.

However, I think the risks of being too conservative are equally concerning right now, particularly when you consider inflation, increasing longevity, and the currently meager interest rates available on socalled safe securities. Retired investors may want to consider an aggressive exchange-traded fund portfolio, or an aggressive in retirement portfolio of mutual funds. Retirement itself can last 30-plus years these days, so your retiree portfolio asset allocations may need to go through several stages over time.

Failing to Prioritise Debt Paydown I know, I’ve just opined that “safe” investments aren’t as safe as they appear, particularly given the prospect of higher inflation and rising interest rates. Yet, what if I told you there was a risk-free way to pick up 4%, 5%, 6%, or even more on your money, guaranteed? And doing so is as simple as sending extra money each month to the bank that holds your mortgage or loan. Of course, prepaying debt won’t make sense in every situation, but if you plan to stay in your home long term, it’s one of the best ways to reduce fixed costs as you enter retirement, thereby reducing your withdrawal rate. Of course there are often restrictions on prepaying debt so you need to research these first. Seek the advice of an independent financial adviser, but it’s something that is certainly worth considering.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management. Contact him at Paul.mclardie@t-wm.com.

International School HCMC Primary Campus 28 Vo Truong Toan St.,D2 Secondary Campus 01 Xuan Thuy St., D2 +84 (28) 3898 9100 admissions@ishcmc.edu.vn www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures. With two campus; Primary and Secondary.

www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

The International School HCMC American Academy 26 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 028 3898 9098 www.aavn.edu.vn The International School Ho Chi Minh City - American Academy is a worldclass middle and high school for children aged 11 to 18 years old. Offering a comprehensive academic program built upon the principles and standards of the American education system..

ENTERTAINMENT

International School Saigon Pearl 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District Tel: 028 2222 7788/99 www.issp.edu.vn The International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is a world-class Elementary School for children aged 18 months to 11 years old offering a full American school curriculum in Vietnam. With a custom built primary campus ISSP’s ethos is centered on building caring relationships with each child and family.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 028 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 028 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn An International British school providing inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. The school has made a conscious decision to limit numbers and keep class sizes small to ensure each student is offered an education tailored to meet his or her individual learning needs. It is a family school providing a stimulating and secure learning environment with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 028 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6076

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 028 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones entertained for hours with an impressive array of video games.

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 028 3827 7008 The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

PARTIES

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other costumes.

Bibi Clown - Chu he Bibi Tel: 0933 131 012 bibiclown.blogspot.com Does exactly as his name suggests.Great service has earned him a reputation for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons and games in both English and Vietnamese.

The Balloon Man Mr Hoat 0903 837 326 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. He will come to your place for decoration but English not as good. Also provides helium balloons.

listings

living CAMERAS

Kiet Camera Ground Floor, Lucky Plaza, 69 Dong Khoi, D1 Ver reliable shop with large range of kit and very good prices. If he hasn’t got in stock, Kiet can quickly find it.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1

AsiaLIFE HCMC 57

An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS

By Gary Woollacott

PEOPLE MATTER RESILIENCE UNDER PRESSURE By the time you read this column, hopefully the drama of my past few months will be behind me. To explain: we run offices in Laos, Thailand and Vietnam as one unit – Greater Mekong Sub-Region (GMS) which also covers Cambodia and Myanmar – and the first part of the year is always a challenge. Christmas and New Year bring a business lull that doesn’t really pick up until midJanuary, and then Vietnam – an increasingly important market for our GMS operation – starts to think about Tet. Laos and Thailand usually take up the slack in February but this year, for some unknown reason, it didn’t happen and we had a shocking month with next to nothing on the books.

Although we didn’t send out any bills, this didn’t affect the incoming expenses! We still had payroll and rent, our two most important and largest expenses (just like most service businesses) to pay, along with myriad other bills that seemed to pop up like mushrooms.

When times are good it’s easy to absorb extra costs but when times aren’t so rosy, they get a careful reassessment. Do we really need this or that?

Every expense went under the microscope.

One thing that is very important, as a manager, is not to panic under such circumstances (even though it was tempting). A cash crunch is just that: a short-term, temporary, problem that will be solved. Somehow. And it was. Business started to pick

up in Vietnam quite quickly after Tet. And early in March good things started to happen in Thailand too – so we were getting back on track. As March progressed even Laos was getting in on the act with active leads and clients.

In a business such as ours it’s a challenge to persuade clients of the (perfectly valid, in my view, naturally!) reasons why executive search is a good idea. But of course we know that we work in priceconscious markets where there is always someone who will do it cheaper.

The unsung stars of this episode – and this is who I want to thank – are my colleagues. They know the pressure I have been under, they see and feel it every day, and they are still with me. They understand the issues and – up to a point – forgive me for my (many) shortcomings.

I try not to delegate pressure (it’s my job to absorb it) but it’s near impossible to always hide it. And besides, a decent manager shares information with his/her colleagues, right?

Then everyone knows where we are: we are all in this together. There’s a saying that ‘tough times pass, tough people last’. It couldn’t be truer.

Thank you all. I couldn’t have come through the past few months without you.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is an executive search consultant who works for Horton International in Vietnam, Thailand and Laos. He can be reached at +84 8 3910 7682 or via woollacott@hortoninternational.com.

58 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 028 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

Thuan My 32 Cach Mang Thang 8, D3 2 Thao Dien, D2 Apple Authorized reseller and Premium Service Provider of Apple computers and products. Excellent service and Englishspeaking staff.

ELECTRONICS

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 028 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to refrigerators.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE AustinHome 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 028 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 028 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

CO-WORKING SPACES

Dreamplex Level 9 – 10 – 11 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, District 1 Tel: 028 7306-6880 dreamplex.co A coworking space for startup entrepreneurs, creatives, consultants and investors to work collaboratively or privately. There’s a meeting hub to connect enterprises with domestic and global investors, as well as assist with

recruitment.

The Hive Saigon 94 Xuan Thuy, District 2 Tel: 028 3620 3481 thehive.com.vn Open spaces and private offices in a three-storey building for creatives and entrepreneurs. Part of a network of coworking spaces throughout Asia.

PepperHouse 19 Hoang Sa, District 1 Tel: 028 3910-2028 pepperhouse.asia PepperHouse provides a space to stay and work in Ho Chi Minh City. Bright, open, and the perfect place to hunker down to get some work done and network.

Saigon Coworking 101 Cu Lao, Phu Nhuan District Tel: 0965 100 244 and 0902 740 106 saigoncoworking.com One of the first coworking spaces in Saigon, Saigon Coworking was founded for startups and networking for young foreign entrepreneurs. The space partners with local professionals to help with legal, financial and IT consulting. Has an onsite kitchen and green rooftop garden.

Start Saigon 18bis/14 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 1 Tel: 028 6682-8580 start-saigon.com Start Saigon is a 24/7 co-working space dedicated to information technology start-ups and entrepreneurs. With a rooftop garden, pool, fast optical-fibre internet, and a meeting room, they also host after work parties and barbecues.

Workyos Viettel Complex, Tower A 12th Floor, 285 Cach Mang Thang Tam, District 10 Tel: 028 6288-2882 workyos.com Drop in and work in one of the open spaces, or rent a desk or private office longer-term. Branding consultation available from the experienced staff. Also available are meeting and event rooms, a bar and a “relax” room.

RECRUITMENT

First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 028 3910 2080 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 / Tel: 028 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Horton International 5F, Vitic Building 6B Nguyen Thanh Y Street, D1 Tel 028 3910 7682-3 www.hortoninternational.com Established in HCMC in 2005, Horton International services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. Horton International is one of the world’s leading executive search groups with 50 offices in 30 countries. For more information, contact vietnam@hortoninternational.com.

RELOCATION AGENTS

By AsiaLIFE

CRAFT SAIGON

Unit 2404, 24th Floor Pearl Plaza Office Tower, 561A Dien Bien Phu Street, Ward 25, Binh Thanh District Direct: 84 8 3840 4237 http://www.crownworldwide.com Want to avoid making mistakes??

To learn how contact Crown for all your relocations needs. We provide services Internationally, locally and commercially as well as provide storage solutions long and short term.

3XU If you’re on the lookout for some cute little gifts to share with friends or loved ones, something unique and different, head over to 3XU for some original handcrafted designs made locally in Vietnam.

High on their list of popular gifts is the Yummy Gift Box, creatively handmade from recycled matchboxes, each one a unique, eco-friendly gift that’s perfect for your environmentally conscious friend’s wedding or birthday.

3XU cofounder Trang Hoang said the company’s first product, the “matchbox card”, actually started as a hobby. They are much more than a hobby now, one item in a full range of cute little collectibles and gifts.

The designs of the matchbox cards are still hand-drawn, coloured, printed on paper and then hand-assembled.

Also, a winner are the bookmark magnets in a wealth of different designs, each one made from two pieces of magnet cleverly hidden between two layers of decorative designs

made from tough, durable materials to ensure they don’t tear or crease when used. Ideal for novels or study books.

A collection of beautifully designed passport covers will help protect your most valuable document. Made from specially treated wood, the are strong, durable and water-resistant, with each one carefully lined with velvet to ensure your passport remains safe and protected in an elegant, fashionable way.

Add to this a stuffed leather charm that will keep you house and bike keys safe. Each animal charm is skillfully hand-sewn giving a unique, sophisticated look and made from eco-friendly synthetic leather to ensure durability over time. Available in fun designs and bright colours, they are great birthday gifts for friends’ bags or key rings.

Trang said 3XU uses natural, safe and environmentally-friendly materials in every step of the production process.

UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations 1st Fl, 214 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 028 3744 7102 MOVING!? www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with ware! housing, handyman, insurance & claim, ! orientation an partner career support services also availble. !"#$%&&'(!)%*#)%&&'(!+),-.)%*#)%&&'/!

0#1.!2#3-(!#4$-(!5%$,#.'/!! !6--7!8,#.%9-!/! :&%))+)9!,#!.-&#$%,-!;#.&7;+7-/! ! !"#$%&$''(")*'+,"-%,'.%*$#/*0'

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<=>=?!@!AB!!A!!CDBB!DEFG!!!!H!!!!8%&-8I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! ! <%)#+?!@!AB!!B!!CDEA!LDEM!!!!H!!!!+)5#I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! www.saigonvan.com

Santa Fe Relocation Services 8th floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 028 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com vietnam@santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around world, Santa Fe offers local & international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration & records management.

listings

fashion

www.shop3xu.vn www.fb.com/3xu.vietnam.

ACCESSORIES

Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 028 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

Craft Saigon is a monthly column to highlight new small businesses in the city, if your business wishes to be featured please email craftsaigon@asialifemagazine.com.

READY TO WEAR unisex L’Usine

151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Retro KID 345/3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 0909 168 350 Featured Street wear imported from Thailand and US as well as local designmen’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of accessories.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 028 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men’s, women’s and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

men

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 028 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

women

ER-Couture Boutique 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2411 www.er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

TAILORS

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 028 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 028 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men. Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy.

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 59

WHAT THE FAQ, FACEBOOK?

M

y concerned mother sent me screenshots of a message that invaded her Messenger inbox last month, allegedly originating from Mr. Facebook himself. It asked Facebook users to “forward this message to 18 of your friends otherwise by 6pm tomorrow you will have to pay, according to the law”.

I told my mum it was a fake message, and she should expect more of them in the wake of Mark Zuckerberg’s 10-hour, two-day testimony to the US Senate and Congress. The testimony followed Facebook’s admitting it knew that political research firm Cambridge Analytica’s scraped 87 million users’ data and used the information to influence voter opinion in the 2016 U.S. presidential election.

Post-testimony Takeaways

•Lawmakers do not really understand how Facebook works •Security is a problem that Facebook admittedly may never solve.

•Zuckerberg is open to discussion of government regulation of Facebook but will not concede fully to anything that would potentially blow apart their business model. It’s still unclear, however, what that regulation actually may be.

•Facebook’s “user agreement sucks”, per Senator John Kennedy, as its priority is to protect the company, rather than fully inform users of what they’re getting into.

On the flipside, users are also at fault when they don’t read the privacy agreements and so don’t have a full understanding of how and what data is harvested and disseminated.

•People sell everything and anything through Facebook ads, including legal and illegal items, such as opioids.

•Paid membership to Facebook has not been ruled out.

•Facebook is not tapping the microphone on our mobile devices.

•Facebook takes responsibility for what

60 AsiaLIFE HCMC

people post.

In the aftermath of the snowballing scandal, what has come to light is that although more than 2 billion people are active Facebook users, most don’t know how FB actually operates, does business nor what personal data we compromise in order to use the social media service.

“Connecting people and building community” isn’t the only priority of the social media giant, which we’ve all known to a certain extent, but haven’t necessarily taken the time to truly understand.

What we know

Most of us blindly create profiles without reading the fine print. I myself don’t understand the intricate workings of the platform and it is near impossible for me to attempt to explain Facebook’s user agreement in full. You’ll have to read it yourself to gain exact reference to the following points I find worthy of attention: •The number one thing we have to know is that when we use Facebook, nothing we do is private. Nothing.

•When users consent to creating a profile, sending messages, clicking on content, watching videos, posting, reposting, sharing photos and “liking” pages, any of that data or analytics from that data is used at the company’s discretion. One revenue stream for Facebook is generated by selling personal data to brands, companies and analytics agencies.

•Facebook and its partners use our data to target ads directly to each of us.

•Privacy laws vary from region to region and affect the way Facebook operates in a particular country.

•Logging out doesn’t delete our Facebook footprint as personal content we’ve shared with other users are subject to their privacy settings. Even deleting our accounts will never make us fully Facebook free.

•Facebook location services have turned

our mobile devices into personal tracking units.

•Lastly, if reading through the entirety of the user agreement, we think we know what we are agreeing to, Facebook reserves the right to alter the user agreement at any time.

What we don’t know

There has been scrutiny over how the privacy settings for our profiles actually work. Even Facbeook’s own FAQ documentation does not make it 100% clear.

Although Facebook discloses they may use our profiles and data for research and can sell our data without compensating us, we don’t fully know what exactly Facebook does with the data they collect and who they provide it to.

Yet to be confirmed, Facebook hasn’t admitted nor denied that even if you’re logged out of your account or not a user, when you visit a site or use an app that uses Facebook services they still receive information about how you are using the internet.

Cambridge Analytica came under fire for the scandal, however, there may be other companies out there who possess the same data set. It’s also interesting to note that Facebook didn’t properly follow-up with Cambridge Analytica to determine if all the data has been properly deleted from their possession.

How to check if your data was compromised by Cambridge Analytica?

Navigate to Facebook’s Help Center and search for “Cambridge” to get to the portal.

Whether you keep your Facebook account up and running is entirely your decision, but think twice about what’s really happening the next time you take a quiz to figure out which Star Wars character you are most like or turning your face into Game of Thrones’ Night King.

DEADPOOL 2 After surviving a near fatal bovine attack, a disfigured cafeteria chef (Wade Wilson) struggles to fulfil his dream of becoming Mayberry’s hottest bartender while also learning to cope with his lost sense of taste. Searching to regain his spice for life, Wade must battle ninjas, the yakuza and a pack of sexually aggressive canines, as he journeys around the world to discover the importance of family, friendship and flavour.

LOVE, SIMON Everyone deserves a great love story, but for 17-year-old highschool student Simon Spier (Nick Robinson), it’s a little more complicated. He hasn’t told his family or friends that he’s gay, and a blackmailer is threatening to out him to the entire school. Add to this, he doesn’t know the identity of the anonymous classmate that he’s fallen for online.

Resolving all of these issues proves hilarious, terrifying and life-changing for Simon.

SOLO: A STAR WARS STORY Prepare for the latest Star Wars frenzy to descend with the latest outing, Solo: A Star Wars Story. Following a young Han Solo (Alden Ehrenreich) and his adventures with his Wookie partner Chewbacca, including meeting Landro Calrissian, Solo is the second Star Wars anthology film, following the 2016 Rogue One. It is a stand-alone instalment set prior to the events of Rogue One and A New Hope.

BOONIE BEARS: THE BIG SHRINK This Chinese animation with English dubbing has been hailed a hit since bursting onto the big screen in China in February. It has smashed records, earning a franchise-best $96.5 million in China alone. Boonie bears and bald Qiang were accidentally zoomed out by their shrink flashlight.

They start an adventure to zoom themselves in and smash pollution to rescue the ecosystem.

62 AsiaLIFE HCMC

phobia pho•bi•a (fō’bē-ə) n. A persistent, abnormal, or irrational fear of a specific thing.

T

sk tsk tsk. I freaking heard it loud and clear in the middle of the night.

It’s here in my house partying away while I am trying to soothe a teething baby who has been waking up every hour for too many hours.

That’s it. I hate it. I hate how helpless I am against this creature. Every time I hear a gecko I picture a giant scaly iguana waiting for me outside the door. For me all the crawling creatures are equally terrifying and mean.

What can I do right now? Wake up my husband to chase it around the house?

What about the next one? There is an unlimited supply, unfortunately!

At this point, in the darkest hour of the night, I forget everything my therapist has said about the relative danger a gecko can impose. In my head, it’s not small and harmless, it’s huge and threatening.

But they are actually small. Imagine if one fell inside my clothes ... ARRRGH!!!

When the sun finally rose, I had o explain to my husband why I looked more sleep-deprived than usual. He didn’t believe me when I told him geckos actually make a noise. I really don’t blame him for being fed up with this whole gecko business of mine. It’s getting old even for me.

Two evenings later, we were catching our breath after a rather eventful bedtime episode, and I heard the gecko noise

again. Tsk Tsk Tsk. My husband heard it too and was quite surprised. He’d never even noticed it before. My facial expression was a mixture of horror, “I am not crazy”, “I told you”, and “do something.

Looking around, he couldn’t find the barking gecko, but we concluded it was behind a recessed part of the ceiling.

The fear of waking up the sleeping baby stopped my husband from chasing it right then. We agreed I should ask the building janitor to come take a look in the morning.

Telling the janitor about the barking geckos issue was a stretch. I had to explain to our very kind Vietnamese helper so then she could translate to the janitor.

I ended up on the sidelines of a very long-winded conversation in Vietnamese between my helper, two janitors, a security guard and the apartment block’s receptionist, who were all inside our apartment, looking around and unsure what to do.

When they finally brought in a ladder to check the recessed part of the ceiling, their hand gestures showed they couldn’t find any trace of a gecko or a hole where one could access the room.

What they suggested next was very odd. They wanted to make a hole in the ceiling and then seal it with a cup so that whatever entered through the hole would be trapped.

What? What? What? If one came

through, who would empty the cup? And rats? Whaaaaat? Why are we talking about rats all of a sudden?

At the end of the summit in my bedroom, it was decided that I should put sticky cardboard on the ledge to catch any gecko. I couldn’t think of any better solution. Needless to say, the janitors were laughing while placing the cardboard. I bet among the weird expats they meet, I am the craziest. My helper kindly told me to ignore the “silly men”.

The gecko noise didn’t stop, the therapist kept pushing rational thinking about “what can a gecko really do?”.

The mental process was not easy, but I was working hard on thinking rationally.

I also tried to convince myself the sticky cardboard would do the trick.

Then one Sunday I was washing the dishes and feeling homesick. When I lifted the last plate on the counter I discovered a large gecko sitting there.

I SCREAMED at the top of my lungs and ran away from the kitchen shaking with fear. My husband ran into the kitchen and all I could do is point to the sink. I managed to put the plate I was holding on the counter and run to hold my crying baby who was startled by my scream.

Even now, a week or so later, the incident is exhausting to write about.

Geckophobia just ruined another weekend.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 63

hancock in se asia

A WORLD AT OUR FINGERTIPS

O

ne of the biggest advantages for me in living in Vietnam is the geography of the location. In much the same way that living in any European country opens up all of that continent for its citizens, so any Southeast Asian country does the same here. It is so easy to jump on a flight and a couple of short hours later find yourself in a gloriously exotic location. We tend to take it for granted, but we shouldn’t.

Last month I had a few days free and wanted a change of scenery. I managed to get a very cheap flight to Bangkok then jumped on a train down to Hua Hin on the coast of the Gulf of Thailand.

It was only when I saw the reactions of friends on Facebook, back in the UK, that it dawned on my how lucky we are. For those back home a trip to Thailand is often a once in a lifetime experience, for us it’s a weekend break.

My flight cost me just $81! Imagine that. £50 would hardly get me a train ticket to the seaside from Manchester. Yet here I was on a gorgeous beach in one of the world’s favourite holiday destinations.

It’s not just Thailand of course apart from the local destinations here in Vietnam there are a host of fabulous countries to explore all within easy reach. I am a huge 64 AsiaLIFE HCMC

fan of the Mekong Delta, when I was a kid at school the idea of me sailing down the “Road to Mandalay” would have seemed ridiculous, yet I have done it many times.

I have slowly been covering as much of Southeast Asia as I can over the last decade. It is a region that I truly love and one in which I fully intend to remain. I love just about everywhere I’ve been since emigrating a decade ago.

I have spent most of my time in Thailand and Vietnam, but also quite a lot of time in Cambodia. It is the people that makes these countries special for me.

Though being a Mancunian the months of glorious sunshine does have a special appeal. Where I grew up the only way we could tell it was summer, was the fact that the rain got warmer.

I intend to be doing a lot more travel in the coming months and years. I have no fixed plans but will be checking out the airlines for cheap flights to anywhere and jumping on a plane whenever I can.

Myanmar is one place I have yet to visit, I hope to put that right soon.

It doesn’t matter what type of break you like out here, they are all available.

City breaks, beach holidays, countryside walking holidays, climbing trips; Southeast Asia has the lot.

I just wish they would sort out the much talked about ASEAN visa, and as quickly as possible. In some cases visa requirements can cost as much, if not more, than the flight tickets.

There’s diving trips to be had, exotic temples to explore, mountains, volcanoes and incredible wildlife. A trip to Komodo to see the dragons is also high on my list. So keep it coming Southeast Asia, you have so much to offer.

Happy travelling folks.

Following a successful 25-year career as a singer/ songwriter/musician, Keith pulled out of the rat race and moved to Southeast Asia in 2008. First living in Thailand, then Cambodia and Ho Chi Minh City since 2013. www.inseasia.com

STREETS INTERNATIONAL

B

ased in Hoi An, Streets International provides an invaluable bridge for disadvantaged youth, taking them from extreme poverty and a life on the streets to a brighter future with career prospects and dignity, for themselves and their families.

Founded as a social enterprise in 2007 by hospitality consultant Neal Burmas, Streets International runs 18-month culinary training programmes at their multiple facilities in the historic old town of Hoi An. It’s here they welcome some of Vietnam’s poorest teenagers and young adults to their tightknit community, teaching them essential life skills, a solid command of English and the culinary skills which are the key to their future careers.

Those who pass the rigorous entry requirements for the programme must be a minimum of 17 years old, so they are legally

eligible to start work and their careers on completion of the course. Whilst studying with Streets, trainees are accommodated in supervised housing, provided with health cover and community support, a small monthly stipend, and the opportunity to learn skills that can take them on to careers in top end hotels and restaurants worldwide.

The training programme includes classroom learning with international instructors, as well as hands-on experience, observation and practice at the Streets Restaurant and Café in the heart of Hoi An’s tourist area.

The restaurant’s menu features the highest standard of contemporary Vietnamese and international cuisine, equipping trainees with the skills needed to prosper in the culinary and hospitality industry.

Another project run by Streets is Oodles of Noodles which offers tourists an authentic

Vietnamese culinary experience and gives trainees the opportunity to further practice their newly acquired English language skills.

Operating in partnership with G Adventures, the largest small group adventure travel company in the world, Oodles of Noodles introduces tourists to a variety of local Vietnamese noodles and gives them the chance to practice making their own.

During their time with Streets, trainees undergo apprenticeships with full-time professional staff, some of whom are previous graduates. The training programme is designed to support youngsters who lack academic skills but who demonstrate the aptitude and attitude required for a career in the hospitality industry.

The programme not only teaches trainees how to cook and serve in high-end restaurants and hotels, but also develop the agility and flexibility needed to compete confidently in the highly competitive tourism industry, especially one requiring competency in English language.

Since its founding, Streets International has graduated over 200 trainees, most of whom find work within two months of completing the programme. Many have gone on to take jobs at five-star hotels, restaurants and resorts where they are able to command salaries that would have been unimaginable before they entered the life changing programme.

Since April 2018, Streets International has partnered with AsiaLIFE and Oi Vietnam magazines to raise awareness of their work and to provide scholarship funding for future trainees through a social enterprise called Small Change Vietnam. www.smallchangevietnam.com www.streetsinternational.org.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 65

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20. What is John Leach famous for making?

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