AsiaLIFE Vietnam September 2018

AsiaLIFE Media Vol. 126

AFRICA’S MASAI MARA 5 FABULOUS DAY SPAS THE FAMILY WHO GREW A STARTUP

INFORMATION AND COMMUNICATIONS PUBLISHING HOUSE

Heart Institute Charity Gala 2018 All proceeds fund directly cardiac surgeries for deprived children with heart diseases.

November 10th 6.30 pm

Park Hyatt Hotel Saigon

murder orien express on the

Ticket price 3.000.000 vnd Dress Code: Creative chic 1930’s style

Point of sale: 1 Han Thuyen, D1 HCMC Booking & contact: Mrs Mayte Pernas m.pernas@cmi-vietnam.com

“No child must be set aside for financial reasons” Pr Alain Carpentier

Plus grand, plus beau

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www.cmi-vietnam.com People at heart

CAMBODIA // THAILAND // VIETNAM

SEPTEMBER 2018 AsiaLIFE Media Vol. 126

VOLUME 126 This month’s cover by: Angeli Castillo

SEPTEMBER 2018

AFRICA’S MASAI MARA 5 FABULOUS DAY SPAS THE FAMILY WHO GREW A STARTUP

INFORMATION AND COMMUNICATIONS PUBLISHING HOUSE

for more news and events, features, restaurant reviews and video, visit:

16

www.AsiaLIFEmagazine.com For advertising and marketing enquiries please contact: +84 163 5077 530 / +84 903 325 543 or adsales@asialifehcmc.com Director Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialifemagazine.com Editorial Director Barbara Adam barbara.adam@asialifemagazine.com

Art Director Thang Pham L.C. leo@asialifemagazine.com Photo Editor Angeli Castillo misscastillo.10@gmail.com

FRONT

Commercial Director

Editor Peter Cornish peter.cornish@asialifemagazine.com

Nguyen Kim Hanh kimhanh@asialifehcmc.com

Contributors Diane Squires Jess Warren Tristan Ngo

Production Manager Hoa Nguyen nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com

FOOD & DRINK

EVENTS ............................................................... 06 ASIALIFE’S PICKS: DAY SPAS Five fabulous spas in Ho Chi Minh City . . ....... 07 Q&A - Gael Mcdonald, RMIT President......... 10 WHAT’S NEW?................................................... 12 BUSINESS VIEW.................................................. 13 SAIGON PROFILES - Dr K. Sr ikar Reddy....... 14 TRENDING.......................................................... 15

SAIGON CRAFT

C OV E R STO RY

Banh duc (steamed r ice cake).......................... 4 1

FROM LITTLE THINGS, BIG THINGS GROW

A look at philanthropy in Vietnam.................. 16

F E AT U R E S

Phu My Hung’s premier cr aft beer bar.. ......... 3 6

EDDIE’S NEW YORK DINER

A new Amer ican diner in D2........................... 3 7

SOUL CURRY

Stylish Sr i Lankan cuisine.................................. 3 8

HERBIVORA SAIGON

Vegan comfor t food........................................... 3 9

HO CHI MINH CITY IN 12 DISHES

A new culinar y guide to Saigon . . ..................... 4 0

LOCAL EATS

STYLE & DESIGN JACK CLAYTON

Woodcut pr intmaking specialist...................... 4 2

THE SEARCH FOR SAIGON’S BEST SINGER

On the trail of the city’s best songbirds........ 2 4

THE FAMILY WHO GREW A STARTUP

The stor y of a new organic food business . 2 6

HAVE YOU HEARD OF BIPOLAR

A psychiatrist explains the condition............. 2 8

TRAMPOLINE SAFETY

The hidden danger s of bouncing..................... 3 0

T R AV E L HANGING OUT IN THE MASAI MARA

A photographer’s tour in Africa . . ..................... 3 2

THE CITY OF LAYERS

The sur pr ising getaway of Vung Tau................ 3 4

4 AsiaLIFE HCMC

COLUMNS IMBIBE ............................................................................. 4 8 FITNESS .......................................................................... 5 0 EDUCATION HUB .................................................... 5 2 PERSONAL FINANCE ............................................. 5 3 PEOPLE MATTER ....................................................... 5 4 SAIGON PET ............................................................... 5 5 TECHS AND THE CITY .......................................... 5 6 STREET SMART .......................................................... 5 8 HANCOCK IN SE ASIA .......................................... 6 0 COMMUNITY FOCUS ............................................ 6 1 PUB QUIZ ..................................................................... 6 2

EVENTS

14 SEPT Noon - 3pm

World Clean Up Day World Cleanup Day is a movement of likeminded people, who are working towards one goal: to help save our Planet from trash. Contact Vietnam Clean & Green if you’d like to take part. www.facebook.com/vnsvx.

Saigon Rugby 10s Sportsman’s Lunch @Equatorial Entry: VND1,500,000

www.facebook.com/ events/191140924936607.

15 SEPT

CSR Workshop - Rethink Plastic Vietnam @The Landmark Entry: VND2.5 million

AFL Grand Final Brunch @Sheraton Hotel & Towers Entry: VND2,400,000.

Organised by the Dutch Business Association in Vietnam - DBAV, ReThink Plastic Program helps raise awareness of the community about plastic waste in Vietnam and how we use plastic on a daily basis.

The Saigon Australian Rules Football Club is hosting its 21st annual grand final brunch, with a five-star buffet and free-flow of beer and wine. Former Melbourne skipper Brad Green is a special guest.

Tickets can be purchased by contacting Darren on 0913803517.

Three course lunch and free flow bar featuring celebrity speaker and ex-Aussie cricketer Greg Ritchie.

www.facebook.com/dbavvn.

www.facebook.com/ groups/586233821420997.

27 SEPT

1:30pm – 8pm 6 AsiaLIFE HCMC

29 SEPT 10am - 4pm

We all need a little Zen every now and then, a little pampering to help remove the everyday stresses from life. And what better way to relax than with a day spa? Diane Squires and Barbara Adam went in search of some of the best day spas in Saigon.

SPA LA SEN A relative new player in the Saigon day spa scene, La Sen opened just a year ago. But don’t let its youth put you off; this is a seriously cool day spa that appeals to tourists, locals and expats alike. Run by husband and wife team Lynn and Pi, the centre focuses on developing long-term relationships with clients.

La Sen specialises in massages, and all masseurs are encouraged to develop a deeper relationship with their clients, to actually invest their whole being into delivering the massage. “We like them to be completely present when giving a massage,” says Lynn. “It’s such a personal experience, you are connecting with your therapist and it’s important they are giving good energy.”

The centre was designed by Pi, who has a graphic design background. It’s a visually stunning, yet creative space. I started my treatment with a foot wash using traditional Vietnamese herbs to release the toxins and improve the blood flow. And followed up with a traditional Thai massage. The masseur was strong, yet gentle. While she stretched and manoeuvred me into unusual positions, I never felt pulled or uncomfortable.

Prices start from VND150,000 for a sauna/steam to VND1.4 million for a three-hour deep tissue oil or therapeutic Thai traditional massage.

104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2. Ph: 0967017595 spalasen.com

7 AsiaLIFE HCMC

CAT MOC SKINCARE AND WELLNESS Cat Moc has been in District 1 for more than eight years. It caters to locals, as well as travellers. The day AsiaLIFE stopped by the reception area was packed with people waiting for a treatment.

All consultants speak English and every client must fill in a consultation form before they start their session so that the clinic can best advise on appropriate treatments. I’ve never had someone examine my skin so thoroughly as Cat Moc did – and that’s before I even got into a treatment room.

I had the Essential Facial and Vietnamese Herbal Massage. My skin felt amazing afterwards and the massage was relaxing yet firm enough to get rid of the knots and tension in my back and neck.

Cat Moc is a mid-range day spa, and the service focuses on holistic health. They use only essential oils from France. Prices range from VND60,000 for a herbal steam and aroma sauna to VND1.63 million for the four-hour Forever Young treatment.

61-63 Tran Dinh Xu St, District 1 Ph: 6295 8926 www.catmocspa.com

MIFUKI TOKYO If you want something very high end, you’ll want to try Mifuki Tokyo. It’s so upscale, my tea was served in a champagne flute! Mifuki Tokyo has been in Vietnam for 20 years, and has its own cosmetic line. They exclusively use their brand for treatments.

Products and treatments are specifically designed for those living in Vietnam; and all skincare is tailored to the local environment.

Sessions at Mifuki Tokyo include a speciallyprepared meal after your treatment and a hair wash and dry. You can also order drinks throughout your session, including wine and cocktails if you choose.

But the centre is focused on maintaining the health and positive mood of its clients.

I had the Mifuki Elite Treatment, which included a massage and facial. The two were integrated rather than finishing one and then beginning with the next, so while I had a mask on my face, my therapist continued to massage my arms and legs.

Afterwards I was given the choice of a Western or Asian meal, complete with dessert. I felt so relaxed at the end of it all, I went straight home to have a nap.

Prices at Mifuki Tokyo range from VND900,000 to VND10m for the 24 karat gold brightening skin pigments therapy.

35 Ha Huy Tap, Phu My Hung, D7. Ph: 8541 23000 www.facebook.com/mifukitokyo

8 AsiaLIFE HCMC

GOLDEN LOTUS HEALING SPA WORLD

L’APOTHIQUAIRE ARTISAN BEAUTE As its name suggests L’Apothiquaire is French-inspired, thanks to its French owners. All products used in the spa are organic and are imported from France. The centre also sells a range of beauty and scented products for the body, house and new mums and babies as well as a range of niche perfumes.

And you’ll feel relaxed as soon as you make your way up the leafy driveway into the beautiful villa in District 3.

After drinking my tea, a special blend made and sold at the spa, and filling in a waiver form which asks for any skin or muscle issues, I got to pick the scents for my Renaissance Therapeutic massage.

The full body massage was simply beautiful. My therapist, Ms Hoa, danced her hands across my body removing the knots and leaving me feeling entirely relaxed. L’Apothiquaire specialises in facials and body treatments. You could try the delicious sounding coconut exfoliation or the chocolate cleanse, for those who dream of having a chocolate bath.

The centre, which has been around for 14 years, attracts tourists, expats and locals and some tourists have been known to book 12 months in advance just to secure their treatment.

And at the end of the treatment, all clients who have a facial or body treatment can make use of the sauna, spa and swimming pool for free.

A soak in the jacuzzi starts from VND380,000 while at the other end a six-hour relax, detox and slim package costs VND3,290,000.

Jjimjilbang is a traditional Korean bathhouse, which usually offers an array of health and beauty services that are enjoyed by groups of friends or family. Golden Lotus Healing Spa World is a four-storey family-friendly jjimjilbang-style day spa. Entry to the public jjimjilbang area is VND335,000 for adults and VND155,00 for children under 1.2 metres. The public areas include a large common area, with floor mats for general laying about, hot and cold sauna rooms, hot and cold foot spas, a doctor fish spa area, Himalayan salt meditation room, and colour therapy rooms.

The spa is popular with families on weekends, so expect to see many kids running around and grandparents napping.

There is a kids’ play area on the top floor, a kid-friendly cafe, with board games at every table, and (wait for it) … a daycare facility where the minimum booking is four hours for VND70,000. Unfortunately, my eight-year-old told me the Kids Cafe area was “for little kids” and was too boring for her, so I might not be able to dump her there again.

For me, the spa was a great family day out. My friend and I and our kids enjoyed checking out the jjimjilbang facilities, some of which were genuinely relaxing, and some were just odd. We checked the kids in the Kids Cafe for a few hours so the adults could do some adulting, and we finished our day spa experience with a Korean dinner (and beers) at the Mr BBQ restaurant on the ground floor, still in our stylish green spa pyjamas. And next time we’ll try some of the spa services while the kids are at the Kids Cafe.

27 Pham Ngoc Thach, Ward 6, District 3. Ph: (028) 3823 9000 goldenlotusspa.vn

64A Truong Dinh St, District 3. Ph: (028) 39325181 www.lapothiquaire.com

9 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Q&A

PRESIDENT OF RMIT UNIVERSITY, VIETNAM

10 AsiaLIFE HCMC

In 2014 Professor Gael McDonald was appointed president of RMIT University, Vietnam.

AsiaLIFE caught up with Professor McDonald to see how the campus, and her vision for it, have changed over that time.

You’ve been President of RMIT Vietnam for nearly five years, how has your vision for the university changed and progressed in that time?

Initially the focus was on student growth and to achieve that we introduced a number of new programmes in, for example: languages, digital marketing, tourism and hospitality, software engineering, as well as robotics and mechatronics. We are continuing to introduce new programmes while also strengthening the quality of what we offer particularly in regard to teaching, staffing, the student experience and our infrastructure. If you have been on any of our campuses you would have seen a lot of changes as we have upgraded our premises, student and teaching spaces. The vision has sharpened in recent years as we focus on the employability of our graduates, which is excellent, and international exchange opportunities.

What differentiates RMIT and its degrees from other Universities here in Vietnam?

I think what differentiates us is the educational process, the opportunities for students and the graduate outcomes. As most people know, our programmes are grounded in the RMIT quality structure so a degree from RMIT Vietnam has RMIT University across the top. It doesn’t matter if you studied with RMIT in Australia, Singapore, or Hong Kong; it is the same degree.

At RMIT Vietnam we pride ourselves on our teaching innovations as we move away from standard examinations to more authentic assessment where students work with companies to solve real problems. We have replaced textbooks – which quickly become dated – with more contemporary, and media-rich material which prepare students for a more digital world. In addition to global experience opportunities we also have a co-curricular program called Personal Edge where students acquire the soft skills needed for future work environments. As a consequence, our students are ready for both life and work.

RMIT recently opened up in Danang what was driving that move?

With campuses in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, we were very conscious that we needed to have a presence in the central part of Vietnam. So this year we opened a small campus in downtown Danang which

at this stage is largely delivering English language IELTS preparation and testing as we ready the market for other higher education programmes in the future.

RMIT Vietnam has recently been asked to take on a broader role in the region what does this mean? Why the change?

Previously the focus at RMIT Vietnam was, not surprisingly, on Vietnam and also growing the number of international students on our campuses. However, recognising the potential of growing economies across the region, and with a foothold already here in Vietnam, RMIT University has recently initiated a strategy to expand into Asia. RMIT has overcome the tyranny of distance by utilising RMIT Vietnam for this expansion and as the springboard into neighbouring countries particularly around alumni relations, industry engagement, internships and student recruitment.

RMIT has just signed an agreement with the Saigon Innovation Hub to help foster start-up initiatives and entrepreneurialism. How important is it for universities to work with industry and what are the benefits of this for the wider community?

In today’s educational environment, where we are focusing on future employability, having close collaboration with industry is imperative. The benefits of this collaboration include having key industry people on our advisory boards giving us advice about curriculum, guest speakers, and company visits. Industry partners also support us with projects for authentic assessment, as well as internships, scholarships and ultimately jobs for our students.

We are also aware that increasingly our students are starting their own businesses.

To encourage this, we are active in promoting entrepreneurship, hence our recent memorandum of understanding with the Saigon Innovation Hub. We have undergraduate and postgraduate courses in entrepreneurship such as a four-unit Postgraduate Certificate in Business Startups. These units can be cross credited to our MBA program. In addition we have just completed building an incubator, pitch room, fabrication lab and digital laboratory which will support our students.

You were featured on the cover of Business Woman magazine in 2014, what are the challenges and opportunities for women in business in Vietnam and how has that changed in the time that you have been here?

I am continuously impressed with the quality of female businesswomen in Vietnam.

They are of an extremely high calibre and incredibly hard working, successfully managing to juggle jobs and family responsibilities. Recognition of this effort is changing, albeit slowly.

Are there unique challenges for a woman rising to the top of a large organisation like RMIT in

a developing country such as Vietnam as distinct from a place like Australia?

Nope. I think the challenges are the same for all senior managers whether they are male or female. RMIT University has a very strong commitment to women in leadership so there are heaps of great role models.

You’re expertise is in business ethics, how has this function evolved over the years, particularly with the rise of the internet and a global economy?

Obviously a more digital environment is presenting ethical challenges as we balance the need for data with the need for privacy.

We are also seeing significant ethical shifts as the entire supply chain is now considered to be accountable. Naturally another area of interest for multinationals is the consideration of the extent to which ethical standards are similar across cultural boundaries.

RMIT was invited by the Vietnamese government to establish the country’s first international university campus.

What is the benefit to Vietnam and to RMIT in having this presence in Asia?

I think it has been recognised that international universities operating in Vietnam provide a number of benefits such as a wider choice of education, a teaching approach that emphasises critical thinking, and also our experience in academic governance.

At RMIT we have hosted a number of Vietnamese universities as they are pursuing greater autonomy. We have also established the Centre of Digital Excellence (CODE) which has been active in training and development, and raising the capability in Vietnam in digital teaching and learning.

What is the price difference between sending your kids here compared with sending your kids to RMIT in Melbourne?

And the price difference between sending your kids to RMIT Vietnam or a Vietnamese university?

It depends very much on what programmes students will be taking. In general, the tuition fee at RMIT Vietnam is about one third of that in RMIT Melbourne, not to mention other costs that international students have to pay when living in Melbourne such as accommodation, transportation and higher living expenses.

Fortunately, students on Vietnam campuses have the option of going on an exchange program to Melbourne without paying the extra tuition fee. They can also choose to study from one-to-two semesters at one of our 200 partners around the world and continue to pay the fees here at RMIT Vietnam.

Average tuition fees of Vietnamese universities are not very high as the universities are subsidised by the government. For example, local public universities are approximately US$700US$1,000 per year and local private universities are about US$2000 - 3000 per year.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 11

BALI HOUSE

CHINCHIN BAR INDONESIAN RESTAURANT

Authentic home-style Indonesian cuisine served in a charming setting, with regular live music to help you chill out.

31 Tong Huu Dinh, Thao Dien, District 2 www.facebook.com/cintaBALI.saigon.

COCKTAIL BAR Inspired by traditional medicine stores, ChinChin Bar is on one of the oldest streets in the heart of bustling Saigon, yet still feels like an oasis. Serves fantastic cocktails.

75-77 Ho Tung Mau, District 1 www.facebook.com/chinchin.cocktailbar.

LA FIESTA PHU MY HUNG MEXICAN FOOD

LOST BOYS SPORTS BAR & GRILL

A favourite of District 1 has opened up in Phu My Hung to bring their Tex Mex goodness to the hungry of District 7. Head over for the usual welcoming hospitality, delicious food and generously poured drinks.

This sports bar is a new and exciting concept in what the owners believe a sports bar should be. A place that can be relaxing in an ambiance and environment where you could have a romantic dinner date.

1-1A Ha Huy Tap, My Canh Apts., Phu My Hung, District 7 www.facebook.com/lafiestaphumyhung

147/ 2A-2B-3C Le Van Luong, District 7 www.facebook.com/lostboyshideout.

REMI THAO DIEN

VINYL LIVE MUSIC

Thao Dien welcomes a new live music bar in the centre of it all.

A great place to grab a beer or cocktail, find a seat and sit back to listen to some of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top music performances.

92 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, District 2 facebook.com/RemiThaoDien.

12 AsiaLIFE HCMC

PUB AND SPORTS BAR A Pasteur Street favourite has relocated to the new strip of bars on Cong Quynh Street. Not a lot has changed as the bar is almost identical to its previous incarnation and the amazing (and popular) happy hour deal remains the same.

166 Cong Quynh, District 1 www.facebook.com/www.vinylbarsaigon.

BUSINESS VIEW NEWS

IN BRIEF UNIDENTIFIED ‘ALIEN’ ON VIETNAMESE BEACH An unusual, black sea creature was spotted on a beach in the Kien Giang province last month.

VN Express reported that the creature was captured on video, as its arms waved in the air.

The tour guide, Nam Du recorded the creature before returning it to the ocean, unsure whether it was a plant or animal.

Observers remarked that it looked alien-like.

Some experts have suggested the creature is a marine algae that reacted to the air, which made its ‘tentacles’ move in all directions.

VIETNAMESE PUPPETRY FESTIVAL THE first Vietnam Puppetry Festival took place in Nguyen Hue Pedestrian Mall in Ho Chi Minh City last month, with participation from theatres in the north and south of the country.

Vietnam Economic Times reported the aim of the festival was to bring puppetry to the eyes of international tourists and locals as well, in order to continue this traditional art form.

The mall boasted a six-metre-tall puppet, one giant stage and five smaller stages for water and other forms of puppetry. Other activities included a parade of music,

puppetry characters and circus performers.

More than 1,000 children from child sponsorship centres have been invited to attend the festival.

Water puppetry originated in the north of the country, where communal village ponds were used as a stage for the puppets. With the water being the real stage, the bamboo house-like structure built behind is used to hide the strings and poles of the puppeteers.

Traditional puppet shows tell a range of stories including historical legends, daily life of farmers such as catching fish or tending to crops, and dragon dancing.

VIETNAM COMPETES IN ASIAD 2018 The Vietnam national tennis team flew to Indonesia to compete in the 18th Asian Games, which ran from the 19th-25th August in Jakabaring Sports City, South Sumatra.

Viet Nam News reported that the team includes Nguyen Van Phuong, who was expected to do well, after recently winning three tournaments before the games.

The women’s national football team also flew to Indonesia to compete in the Asian Games, where they played in Palembang City.

CAVE DISCOVERY

LAND SUBSISTENCE PROBLEMS FOR HCMC FLOODING is worsening in Ho Chi Minh City as a result of rapid urbanisation creating land subsistence across the city.

Land subsistence has been warned about for years. Viet Nam News reported the city will soon face the same problems as Jakarta, Indonesia, which is currently the fastest sinking city in the world. Jakarta has sunk by 2.5 metres in the last ten years.

The Ho Chi Minh City University of Technology issued a report documenting subsistence over the last 20 years. Between 5-10mm of land subsistence has occurred in the Binh Tan, Binh Chanh districts, and districts 2, 7, 8 and 12. The sea level has

also risen by 3mm.

Nguyen Phat Minh from the Ho Chi Minh City University of Natural Science said land subsistence affects drainage by causing severe ground pressure, which results in rain being unable to filter down to aquifers underground.

Land subsistence is also caused when large amounts of water are drawn from permeable rock. Without the water helping to hold the ground up, it sinks.

Experts have warned that there is not enough awareness of the falling land levels, as more and more construction occurs across the city.

Forty-four more caves have been discovered in the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, filled with various stalactites and mineral deposits.

Vietnam Economic Times reports that the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park has been declared a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site twice before, due to the archaeological value and beautiful scenery.

Located in the Quang Binh province, the area has become a tourist hotspot, welcoming almost 1.9 million tourists in the first half of 2018, an increase of 17 percent from last year.

HEALTHY LUNG WEBSITE LAUNCHED The Medical Service Administration in collaboration with AstraZeneca launched a website to help the country access information about respiratory diseases and problems.

The Healthy Lung website aims to tackle the burden on healthcare systems in Asia as a result of a growing number of respiratory problems across the population.

Viet Nam News reported that asthma and chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD) are growing more common in Vietnam.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 13

INDIAN CONSUL GENERAL

DR. K. SRIKAR REDDY Words by Jess Warren.

Photo by Romain Garrigue.

N

ext month marks the 150th birth anniversary of Mahatma Gandhi.

With this landmark year soon to commence, a flurry of celebrations are underway across Southeast Asia. In light of this, we caught up with Dr K Srikar Reddy, the Indian consul general based here in Ho Chi Minh City, to chat about the long-standing friendship and trading connections between India and Vietnam.

India and Vietnam have a long-held friendship, going back to the 2nd century where the Cham Kingdom in central Vietnam existed until roughly the 17th century. With such a long-standing relationship, it is no wonder that celebrations for Indian-born Gandhi’s birth anniversary, held on October 2, will also be held in Vietnam.

To kick off celebrations, the consulate is hiring a Vietnamese singer to record a video performance of Gandhi’s favourite song; Vaishnava Jana To. The video will be used across social media to spread awareness and grow an online following of further events throughout the year. Having inspired many international leaders such as Martin Luther King, Nelson Mandela and Barack Obama, it is 14 AsiaLIFE HCMC

hoped that teaching Gandhi’s principles during the celebrations will attract people to learn and understand his peaceful beliefs at a variety of seminars and cultural events throughout the city.

Long History

Sitting with Dr Reddy in his light and breezy office in District 3, he tells me how the friendship between Vietnam and India has grown and developed over thousands of years. When the Cham Kingdom existed in central Vietnam, many temples were constructed.

“The My Son Temple complex is one example of these, it’s now marked out as a UNESCO world heritage site, built by the Cham people,” said Dr. Srikar Reddy.

“The Buddhist faith is another strong link between the two countries. Throughout the years many connections have developed between India and Vietnam and this has helped to create and sustain a longstanding relationship.” Interestingly, the French rule led to an even closer connection between the two countries.

Dr Reddy said many Indians from French territories, such as Pondicherry moved to

Vietnam.

“After being brought here to help with the construction of roads, ports, banks and the postal network, many more Indians settled in Vietnam,” he said.

“This was a major factor in the growth of the Indian population in Vietnam.”

“At one point, there were 75,000 Indians dwelling in Ho Chi Minh City and Southern Vietnam. Due to this, there are now many Indian temples and mosques in Ho Chi Minh City, with two of the temples and one mosque being over 100 years old.”

Mass Exodus

However, following the war, a large proportion of the Indian population left Vietnam, leaving only a few hundred Indians after 1975. Slowly and surely, the Indian population is on the rise again, with a population of around 3,000 Indians now living in Ho Chi Minh City, and continuing to gradually increase. Much of the current Indian population are entrepreneurs, business men, and teachers at international schools.

Within the Indian population here in Ho Chi Minh City, many large associations have been formed to facilitate interaction within the

community. The Indian Business Chamber in Vietnam (INCHAM) is one example. Made up of more than 200 members, most of whom are Indian businessmen, the group helps organise Indian cultural events and festivals.

Festival of Light

As Diwali approaches this year, INCHAM will be organising a large event, with an expected attendance of 1,500 people. Dr Reddy said the festival of light will be celebrated with an Indian cultural troupe performing traditional dance, as well as Bollywood dance, and all kinds of Indian food being served.

Among all of the different dishes that will be on offer, Dr Reddy said he will be enjoying a biryani, which he claims originates from his hometown, although the true origin of the biryani is still contested to this day.

Yet the relationship between India and Vietnam isn’t just one of festivals, food, culture and dance. In 1975, India granted “Most Favoured Nation” status to Vietnam, recognition that the recipient of this title must receive equal trade advantages by the country granting it.

This meant advancing trade advantages such as low tariffs between India and Vietnam.

Trade has grown and matured between both countries to become mutually beneficial with the advent of two policies. The Look East and Act East policies of 1991 and 2014 respectively were important for the growth of commercial and economic trade. Dr Reddy said that bilateral trade has grown rapidly, within the last 20 years.

“It has grown more than 60 times. Whilst in the year 2000, bilateral trade amounted to US$200 million, and it reached US$12.83 billion in 2017/18,” he said.

Trade Partners

Both countries have developed and grown a different range of exports, and as a result, they can benefit from a strong trading partnership.

Where India exports slightly more raw materials such as meat, shrimp, cotton, textiles, leather, as well as pharmaceuticals, Vietnam exports a range of technology including mobile phones, accessories, computer parts, as well as the very popular coffee.

Within the partnerships that have formed between both countries, there are important links for education as well. Dr Reddy said within the Indian Technical and Economic corporation programme, India offered 13 scholarships every year to officials and experts from Vietnam to undergo various teaching in Indian institutions of excellence, covering 40 different topic areas.

With this educational partnership being very important to both countries, there are also 44 scholarships for long-term study in Indian Universities. He added that the Indian consulate has also facilitated more than 1,000 people from the southern provinces of Vietnam to train and learn in India.

Having only filled the position of consul general in October 2017, Dr Reddy hasn’t been in the position long, but it is clear that he has a busy year ahead of him here in Saigon.

BINH QUOI- THANH DA PROJECT REVIVED AGAIN The Ho Chi Minh City Department of Planning and Investment is again inviting bids for the delayed Binh Quoi-Thanh Da urban project.

In discussion for 26 years, the project has left thousands of Binh Thanh District residents uncertain of their future and unable to repair their houses. Viet Nam News reported the project has previously been awarded to different developers in 2004 and 2015, but neither were able to execute the project.

As all construction work has been banned because the area is a designated work site, resident’s homes and the roads have deteriorated, making living conditions difficult.

NEW ZEALAND EDUCATION FOR VIETNAMESE New Zealand’s bid to provide quality experiences for international students has resulted in more Vietnamese students choosing to study there.

At the end of 2017, there were more than 2,500 Vietnamese students in New Zealand, a rise from 2016, Vietnam Economic Times reported.

A new My StudyNZ app matches students to courses and institutions that would suit them.

By equipping students with the necessary tools to make their application easier, New Zealand is providing support to the growing number of international students that study in their country.

TAXI RANKS IN THE CITY Five taxi ranks opened across the city last month, Vietnam Economic Times reported. The ranks are being piloted for six months, and may be rolled out across other areas of the city.

The ranks are marked with a yellow taxi stand, and have a waiting area on the side of the road.

Taxis have roughly two minutes to drop off and pick up passengers.

The trial was proposed by the city’s Department of Transport, and aims to tackle the congestion that is caused by hailing taxis on the street, as well as tourists being scammed by drivers asking for high fares.

CROWDS CHOOSE LOCAL COFFEE Customers across the country are steering clear of large international coffee chains, such as Starbucks in favour of smaller brands for a more affordable drink. Local coffee brands such as The Coffee House have well designed interiors and free and fast wifi for customers. This has grown their student and young professional audience.

The Coffee House is thought to be growing the fastest, and will be opening another 700 outlets in the next five years. VN Express reported experts in the industry said the high rents of premium land where Starbucks choose to set up has resulted in a rise in retail price.

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M

Jess Warren investigates the growth of philanthropic work in Ho Chi Minh City, tracking down the people working hard to better the lives of others. Additional reporting by Chloe Owen. Photos by Angeli Castillo.

16 AsiaLIFE HCMC

any of us want to do good.

Whether that’s doing something to make someone’s day a little easier, or dropping some change into a charity collector’s pot.

But for some of us, this isn’t enough.

There’s a growing number of people within the expat and local communities who are collaborating to sow the seeds of philanthropy across the country. As a result, altruism is flourishing in new ways within and beyond Ho Chi Minh City.

Canadian-born Ben Mawdsley embodies this desire to do more and help improve people’s lives. Starting small, he encouraged the students who attended his free Sunday English class to find solutions to issues within their hometowns.

For Ben, the desire to help comes from a moral responsibility. He pointed out that “we’ve been born in comfortable conditions; we have a responsibility to those that are less well off, and [Vietnam] is a place where you can make a real difference”.

As a result he has created Audium, a community group of locals and expats who are working to better the lives of others within Vietnam. Nicknamed the ‘Audium Army’, the forum operates to network and support each other with their efforts to create positive change.

Now running huge food drives to orphanages in the surrounding areas of Ho Chi Minh City, Audium collects donations of food and supplies, and delivers these much-needed goods to children who are in need.

Currently, Ben’s approach comes from his desire to help others, and to see the difference he can personally create.

Originally self-funded, but now supported by sponsors, Ben’s honest and unwavering attitude to wanting to help those in need is exemplified in his charity work.

Audium’s next step is to take their charitable desire and work towards creating sustainable, long-term change. Focusing on the skills that can be developed in these young people, Ben’s five-year plan involves opening a completely skills-based school.

His plan is to equip those that attend with the hard and soft skills that will help them through life. Listing the facilities he wants to include, such as “a dojo, a kitchen, a garden, and classrooms”, Ben’s vision is to provide the skills for his students so they can venture off into the world. Whether that is gaining a job here in Vietnam, or going to

work or study abroad.

Growing from simple charitable acts, to a long-term and sustained approach to philanthropy, Ben exemplifies how people’s desire to help others can grow into something bigger than they initially imagined.

Charity or Philanthropy?

Philanthropy is a word thrown about within the charitable and corporate worlds, and yet it has a variety of applications. Philanthropy is much more than a charitable act, and it goes further and is far more rewarding than reaching into your pocket and dishing out money. Instead, it is the altruistic efforts that individuals and organisations take to improve human welfare.

Philanthropy is an ancient idea, dating back to Plato, the Greek philosopher who wrote in the mid-fourth century BCE. Plato’s will left his farm to his family, with instructions that the proceeds be used to fund the academy Plato founded, this was the beginnings of philanthropic work, as the money helped to keep the academy running. Yet philanthropy has now grown beyond simply a monetary donation.

By donating your time, voice, reputation and effort, this can often provide greater help than any monetary value, as the impacts are longer-term and more sustainable, all for the benefit of social welfare.

Where charity can often be seen as temporary monetary assistance, such as donating to the World Wildlife Fund, philanthropy has a more sustained approach, considering the needs of a community group or environmental project, and donating time and energy to the cause.

For Ben, it is evident to see how he is transitioning Audium from simple acts of kindness, to a philanthropic institute that develops the skills of disadvantaged youth across the country.

Make a Small Difference

Ann Maasbol, a Danish expat based in Ho Chi Minh City has taken a similar approach to Ben, as her work with Make a Small Difference (MASD) focuses on children who have had an unfortunate start to life.

“We decided to mainly work with one daycare shelter for children in the Mekong Delta by introduction of a friend, who has family in the area of Tra Vinh,” explained Ann.

By donating

your time, voice, reputation and effort,

this can often provide greater help than any monetary value.

AsiaLIAAFE HCMC 17

Working with our

heads and

our hearts makes for a winning and sustainable enterprise.

- Neal Bermas

18 AsiaLIFE HCMC

“Their need was urgent and nobody else supported them, we like to help where there is no or very little support, or where we can see that we can make a small difference.

“Transparency is very important to us, and everything we do. We do it ourselves or ensure that we only deal with people that we trust and are always directly involved in donating funds without going through middlemen.”

Similarly to Audium, Ann said MASD has found themselves with an army of ambassadors, who work hard and help [MASD] a lot.

“They give a lot of themselves and everyone has their own special skill set that we value,” she said.

As with any sustainable charity and philanthropy work there is the need for capitalising on specific skill-sets.

Now looking for new projects in Hoi An and across Vietnam, MASD is aware of the need to supply long-term support for its new venture.

Streets International

Also taking this skill-based approach to philanthropy is Neal Bermas who started Streets International in 2007.

Inspired by the street children he saw wandering around District 1 on his first visit to Ho Chi Minh City almost 20 years ago, Neal believes all the “children of the world are our responsibility and deserve our support”. Much like Ben, he was driven by a desire to make a difference.

Taking a very specialised approach to help young people grow their hospitality skills, Neal recognised the great opportunities that emerging economies provide for the tourism and hospitality sectors.

With his own expertise in business, hospitality and culinary studies, he was equipped with the theoretical and practical knowledge to train people in hospitality, and provide them with a very professional and focused skillset.

Having grown to help more than 250 young people get jobs working in some of the best international resorts and hotels in Vietnam and beyond, the Streets International Hoi An campus runs three concurrent classes, each with about 25 trainees at a time, with roughly half the students coming from Ho Chi Minh City and southern Vietnam.

For Neal, the sustainable side to Streets International is essential.

“We know about the importance of transparency, developing operating standards, working with budgets, and at the same time staying focused on our mission,” he said.

Running his enterprise with such business acumen ensures their important work can be sustained into the future.

Proudly stating that “our enterprises are top-notch and profitable”, Streets International are able to provide no-

cost, residential, culinary and hospitality training and apprenticing to terribly poor, disadvantaged and out-of-school youth in Vietnam, and soon from Cambodia.

“Working with our heads and our hearts makes for a winning and sustainable enterprise” said Neal, who emphasises the practicality of making change happen.

Interestingly, Streets International does not have a large volunteer programme.

Neal said the volunteer dynamic often does not support an enterprise with the sort of consistency and long-term commitment that he believes is necessary.

However, while volunteering with Streets International is limited, Neal had some words of advice for any expats looking to get involved in charity and philanthropy.

“Get to know the organisations closely, and carefully check out both their governance and financials” he said. The impermanence of a singular monetary donation is something that concerns Neal, who expresses the importance of results.

“While the work of many charities touch our hearts, do they stand the test of time and analytics?”

“Our desire to help can be implemented more effectively if our resources are channelled into reputable organisations.”

Strategic Philanthropy

The governance, financials and analytics of an organisation are increasingly being discussed as more people move towards strategic philanthropy.

Going beyond the idea that philanthropy is all about giving, strategic philanthropy is a growing topic among individuals and companies that wish to mutually benefit from their actions. As a result, the term corporate social responsibility (CSR) has been brought to the table.

CSR exists for strategic and ethical purposes. Businesses and corporations often adopt CSR policies due to the ethical views of senior management. If a chief executive objects to the harm their company causes to the environment, they may look at ways to counteract the damage, such as engaging in a tree planting programme that offsets carbon emissions.

CSR strategies are also used to grow the trust of shareholders, as taking responsibility for corporate actions reduces business and legal risks. As a strategy, it encourages positive impacts on consumers, stakeholders, employees, investors, communities and the environment.

From this, there has been a rise in the idea of social business. That is, conducting business while having a positive impact on society and the environment. Easily integrated into a business strategy, and providing all the choice to senior management about the things that they care about and want to improve, the philanthropic side to business is growing here in Ho Chi Minh City and around the world.

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Linking volunteers who have

a range of professional skills

to not-for-profits can help develop the organisational capacity of a not-for-profit.

20 AsiaLIFE HCMC

LIN Centre for Community Development

The Listen-Inspire-Nurture (LIN) Centre is a non-governmental, not-for-profit organisation that strives to facilitate change. The centre connects local not-forprofit organisations (NPO) and grassroots organisations, skilled volunteers, and donors to aid in effective sustainable development and poverty alleviation in Vietnam.

Peter Cornish, the centre’s head of marketing and communications, said LIN bridges the gap between individual and corporate philanthropy and recipient NPOs. “We encourage strategic giving, that is long term and sustainable, rather than oneoff charitable donations,” he said.

“We focus on the importance of longterm planning and providing support to organisations that provide social benefit to the community.”

LIN works to connect organisations like Audium and MASD to volunteers with the skills to progress their work, as well as the all-important financial donors.

As recognised by Neal, specialised support is the most effective for changing lives. Linking volunteers who have a range of professional skills, such as accounting or website development to NPOs can help develop the organisation’s capacity.

Nga Nguyen, who volunteers as a member of Narrow the Gap’s Grant Allocation Committee for Round II.2018 (see a list of grant proposals on page 23), said many young not-for-profit organisations could benefit from expert support and advice on how to achieve their objectives in a more effective, sustainable way.

For LIN, they believe the community here in Ho Chi Minh City has the skills needed to progress itself. Peter said LIN works “specifically with local NPOs that are solving local problems that impact our community” which keeps the focus on achieving goals in Vietnam.

Where Audium, MASD and Streets International have recognised the need for operating with transparency and strong principles, LIN helps encourage this among other NPOs that are yet to see the benefit.

By providing a range of services such as workshops and training sessions, hosting meetings for individual NPO staff and volunteers, and providing physical spaces for NPOs to use, LIN helps to grow these partnerships.

The centre also supports donors who wish to help implement strategic, thoughtful philanthropy through one-on-one consultations, and information sharing. By creating the networking opportunities for NPOs, donors, and volunteers to meet and understand each other’s needs, LIN fosters the idea of collaboration, and partnerships that benefit both sides.

This summer, LIN held the second annual How Doing Good is Good for Business conference. The event gathers

international and local representatives from a variety of sectors to exhibit models of CSR and explore how businesses and NPOs can mutually benefit from partnerships.

Peter said LIN was active in encouraging this strategic approach to philanthropy, as well as spreading the understanding that doing good can be good for business, and that it was a two-way exchange. The corporation has got to benefit as well as the NPO and their recipients.

The conference encourages and enables businesses to grow sustainably and strengthens partnerships between businesses, nonprofits, and government.

Narrow the Gap

Established in 2009, LIN’s Narrow the Gap Community Fund aims to allocate local resources better, which can then be used to tackle the root causes of social issues in local communities. The programme engages people with a shared vision in order to raise awareness, which are invested in projects that address a variety of local needs.

The community and the programme’s Grant Allocation Committee vote to decide which organisations will ultimately receive support. The aim is that by running a selection process that engages local residents and grows public interest, the overall community participation to confront local problems increases.

By operating transparently, it encourages a range of people to get involved, from residents of Ho Chi Minh City to international individuals, businesses and organisations.

While local not-for-profit organisations and philanthropists benefit, the ultimate benefit lies with the marginalised groups who lack equal access to opportunities.

These groups include undocumented migrants, people with disabilities, the urban impoverished, ethnic minorities, women, children, and other groups that are prone to facing discrimination.

Nga says Narrow the Gap provides an opportunity to connect with professionals in the field to know you’re not alone and they give you the support when you need it. Thus, the programme provides the bridge between organisations in need of guidance and professionals who are willing to offer it.

Narrow the Gap’s Success

Last year, Friends for Street Children (FFSC), a local Ho Chi Minh City organisation, secured funding from Narrow the Gap for their project entitled Supplying Drinking Water for 50 Households in District 8.

The project addressed the potable water shortage by supplying a water treatment tank in the middle of the district, and was well received by all of the residents.

It was only through Narrow the Gap that FFSC was able to secure the funding to achieve their aim of increasing local families’ access to drinking water.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 21

Six NPOs have pitched projects to the LIN Centre for Community Development this year. Only three will receive funding. Read more about the projects here, and follow the progress on LINâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Facebook page.

22 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Agicham

Medical Insurance for HIV Patients

Scope of Operation: Economic Empowerment United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs): (1) No Poverty; (5) Gender Equality Location: An Giang province

Scope of Operation: Healthcare SDGs: (3) Good Health and Well-being Location: Ho Chi Minh City

AGICHAM-KIMCHI Social Enterprise project pitch works towards sustainable poverty reduction and empowerment of Cham ethnic women through traditional training in embroidery and access to information technology. By doing so, they hope to strengthen the economic capacity of Cham women while promoting gender equality and preserving the unique culture of the Cham community.

For cultural and economic reasons, most Cham women in An Giang do not have access to educational opportunities, stable employment or financial autonomy. This project assists with small business development by providing support in terms of building self-confidence, organising production and distribution and helping develop their management capacity.

In the short-term, the project improves household incomes by equipping Cham women with knowledge and soft skills while maximising use of resources available in their communities.

The project also hopes to empower Cham women through a production and business group where women can develop management and leadership skills in the manufacturing sector.

Longer-term, the project will improve the quality of economic and cultural life, gender equality and overall empowerment of the Cham women’s community through traditional training in embroidery combined with access to information technology in the commune.

Viet Su Kieu Hung Scope of Operation: Education (History) SDGs: (4) Quality Education Location: Ho Chi Minh City & online - nationwide Viet Su Kieu Hung’s project pitch hopes to instill national pride in a younger generation that they fear is losing its cultural and historical identity as they become more connected to technology.

The K-Pop generation dreams of travelling abroad, but in doing so many lose their culture, history and national pride. Viet Su Kieu Hung fear a loss of the Vietnamese soul and spiritual values in what they describe as a “cultural invasion” that’s the result of new technology, and the new freedoms to travel.

To address this, Viet Su Kieu Hung will create and release a cartoon series in three episodes called Battle of Da Bang. By highlighting Vietnam’s heroic and historical past, they hope to fuel national pride in Vietnamese youth and create a proud new generation.

Gieo Duyen Bridges Scope of Operation: Bridge Construction SDGs: (1) No Poverty; (2) Zero Hunger; (3) Good Health & Well-being Location: Ca Mau The Charitable Group of the Vu-Vo Clan in the South pitches a project based in the Mekong Delta, where river tributaries intertwine but few concrete bridges exist, creating challenges for local communities.

Students struggle to get to school, often falling off home-made bridges. Traveling by boat or ferry is expensive, and emergencies are hard to deal with, especially at night and during heavy rain.

The project proposes building concrete bridges for three communes in Tan Hung, Phu Hung and Phu Tan, opening up economic and social opportunities to the local communities. In the short-term, they hope to improve safety for children getting to school, as well as save them time, effort and money. Longerterm goals include providing roads connecting communes, as well as developing access to clean water, digital television and the Internet, further improving quality of life for local inhabitants.

The Research Group of Circular 15/2018/TT-BYT project pitch works to increase insurance coverage for HIV patients at outpatient clinics in Ho Chi Minh City. At present, the Centre for HIV / AIDS Prevention and Control is treating 29,402 people living with HIV / AIDS, including 19,583 in the city and 8,102 from provinces. About 70% of those living in the city have health insurance but less than 40% use it.

At present, many patients do not fully understand the importance of health insurance, nor the confidentiality of information they disclose during consultations. This has been identified as one of the reasons for not using health insurance.

As a result, many patients cannot afford treatment and are thus discharged, new strains of resistant HIV virus are appearing, which reduces the effectiveness of HIV/AIDS treatment and leads to an increase of virus outbreaks and more fatalities.

In the short-term, the project hopes to gain legal support so patients can buy health insurance, as well as advising 100% of patients about the use and benefits of health insurance. Longerterm they hope to develop HIV/AIDS-related health facilities.

Hospital Theatre

Scope of Operation: Working with Children SDGs: (3) Good health and well-being; (4) Quality Education Geographical location: Ho Chi Minh City Healthy Children, Happy Children Volunteer Club pitches a project called Fairy Tales, to provide support to children staying in shelters and hospitals throughout Ho Chi Minh City. Due to a lack of social activities at these facilities, with children suffering side effects of treatment and long periods in bed, depression and boredom can impact negatively on their recovery, extending the time needed in hospitals.

Despite cooperation with the Department of Social Work there is still a need to provide regular entertainment to children in hospitals. Fairy Tales works with students to develop an active environment where children can participate in organising screenings of films or theatrical productions.

Working on themes which include puppetry, film, and storytelling, and using folk art, images, sounds and stories, the workshops are designed to provide fun, as well as learning.

Short-term goals include the development of a fun-filled orientation programme that will provide social, cultural and medical knowledge to children and their families. Longer-term, the project hopes to launch theatre productions that improve communication and soft skills, as well as the spiritual welfare of children.

Books in the City Scope of Operation: Books/Education SDGs: (4) Quality Education Location: Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Can Tho, Hue, Danang, Thai Nguyen, and other provinces Books in the City pitches a project that will see them become a leading advocate for linking all non-profit book publishing, as well as the culture of reading in Vietnam, through promoting the 17 Sustainable Development Goals of the United Nations by 2030.

The project seeks to increase access to free books, especially to underprivileged groups. To do this, it will link non-profit organisations producing books throughout Vietnam to develop a network that maximises access to reading materials in each location. By documenting the availability status of books in local communities, providing free access to books covering a broader choice of subject matter, and connecting the reading community, especially those who are disadvantaged or disabled, countrywide, their longer-term goals include developing a transfer model and accompanying website to other global organisations.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 23

24 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Annigje Jacobs is on the trail of Saigon’s best songbirds.

Photos by Brice Godard.

A

loud chattering rises from Vuon Chim, a coffee house located at the lush dead end of one of Binh Thanh’s hems. Around 50 men, with so many songbirds, have gathered this Saturday morning for the monthly chao mao competition. The chao mao, red-whiskered bulbuls, arrive in beautiful bamboo cages that are carefully covered with pretty floral fabrics.

It is a stark contrast with most of the men.

Except for one sharply dressed judge, the guys wear shorts, flip-flops and worn-out t-shirts. A few have impressive tattoos or big gold watches. Some are old, some are young. It’s pretty much a cross-section of the men you see everyday on the streets of Ho Chi Minh City. Only men; this is not a sport for women, as one of the attendees would later tell me.

While more and more guys arrive with their precious birds, four men start hanging all the cages on a three-metre high metal construction. The competition starts a little after 9am. Today, around 100 chao mao will compete for the first prize: a certificate, a trophy and VND2.5 million.

Bird Cafe

The first time I heard about the existence of bird cafes must have been around

six months ago. Sure, I had noticed that keeping birds was a popular pastime all over Vietnam. And I also wondered why so many guys were driving around with covered bird cages on their bikes – especially on weekends.

But little did I know about the world that lies behind it until a friend took me to Vuon Chim, or Bird Garden. One of the – apparently - many bird cafes in Saigon. I expected a cafe with some feathered friends flying around. Maybe a parrot at the door to greet visitors – basically, something similar to the popular cat and dog cafes.

What’s In A Name?

From the moment we arrived, I realised this was not a venue to snap selfies with exotic birds; this is serious business. Initially, I felt a little out of place – I know nothing about birds. Good thing there was something even more interesting than the singing pets: their owners.

A minute after we sat down, one of the guys moved his plastic chair next to ours and started talking. “Today is a relaxing day,” he explained. “We just come here to have a coffee, watch the birds and chat with each other.” It turned out that the birds are the only thing they talk about. He told us how he feeds his chao mao, cares for them and trains them to sing. With a straight face he added: “my birds are very important to me. Some mornings, I don’t have time to buy breakfast for my children, but I make sure I always feed my birds.”

Then, he suddenly got up, walked to his cage and moved it to a different spot. When he sat down again, he said: “if the birds are next to each other for too long, they run out of things to say. When I put them somewhere else, with new neighbours, they start chatting again”.

The more he talked about his beloved birds, the more I started to believe he attributes human traits to them. Casually, I asked him “what’s the name of your chao mao?” He looked at me like I’d just asked him the most ridiculous question he’s ever heard. His friend, who until then had been quietly watching the birds, turned around in disbelief.

Both stared at me for a few seconds, then pushed each other and laughed. “No,” said our neighbour when he cooled down, “when we enter them in the contest, they receive a number – but that’s it.” He said we should visit the competition one day.

The Art Of Singing

So, here we are – same place, different day.

Our neighbour from before is nowhere to be found – but there are enough other bird enthusiasts who are more than happy to talk. Mr Phuong, for instance, a healthcare engineer from Pleiku, now living in Saigon with his wife and no less than ten chao mao.

“I buy them from friends or from kids who catch them in the wild,” he said. “The most important thing is that I feel a connection with each bird, but I prefer the young ones that I can train.”

In Vietnam, training a bird is considered a form of craftsmanship. The men who know how to shape the voice and character of a bird, are referred to as nghe nhan (artisans). Just like blacksmiths or carpenters. For those with talent it can become a lucrative business. The price for an award-winning bird starts around VND10million.

Number 1

Everyone I talk to tells me that the chao mao is the most popular, the “number one” bird all over Vietnam. Hung Le Minh Quoc, President of the Bird Association ‘Vuon Chim’ knows why: “Everyone likes the chao mao, from the very young to the very old.

This bird has an interesting face, a strong voice and it’s very social.”

Half an hour after the start of the competition, the first elimination round takes place. After that, it takes another four hours before the winner is chosen. The birds all look pretty much the same to a layperson like me. But not to judge Nguyen Van Hien. “First, we look at the attitude of the bird. They have to be social and hop peacefully on the perch. If they’re shy and stay still, they’re out. If they try to fly off, they’re out too.” He has been judging chao mao for five years and is impressed with today’s competitors. “The winning bird has a beautiful voice. Oh, and a sharp tail – very important too.”

Early Birds

The Bird Garden Cafe is open every day, but it’s a lot more crowded on weekends.

Going on a Sunday morning might be your best option as you can then also visit the wonderful Cao Minh vintage market next door.

Cafe Vuon Chim – 251/85 No Trang Long, Ward 13, Binh Thanh District.

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From corporate high-flyer to small business startup, Diane Squires investigates how seeking a healthier lifestyle sowed the seeds of a new organic food business.

Photo by Jonny Edbrooke.

26 AsiaLIFE HCMC

C

hristian Kuhl’s face lights up when he talks about food, but not just any food – organic food; chemical-free wholefoods, livestock that get to roam freely across green pastures and foods that haven’t been injected with growth hormones.

It’s a passion that developed after years of researching where food comes from and just what we’re ingesting into our bodies every time we eat.

And for Christian, his wife Signe and their two sons, healthy eating has become a way of life, so much so that they recently started ByNature, a family business specialising in sourcing and selling allnatural products that are farmed in ethical and sustainable ways and are safe and clean to consume.

It wasn’t always like this. The one time corporate high-flyer clearly remembers the day that set him on his new path in life.

He’d spent years working in a career most people would envy, travelling the world, moving from one highly paid job to another.

“It gave me many wonderful experiences,” said Christian, who along with his wife Signe is from Denmark but has lived in Asia for more than 15 years.

“But it was also very stressful. About eight to ten years ago I found myself very stressed.

“I wasn’t sleeping well, I had digestive issues, I was overweight, I was probably 20 kilograms heavier than I am now.

“I woke up one day and could barely get out of bed. I thought, this is no way to live.”

Christian said a number of things prompted his decision then to make some changes, but perhaps the biggest was the memory of his stepfather who, in his mid 40s, collapsed from a brain haemorrhage. He was in intensive care for months and to this day – about 30 years later – he can’t move the right side of his body and can’t talk.

“That’s no way to live your life, not if you can avoid it,” he said.

“I thought about him that morning when I woke up and decided I needed to make a change.

“I had been living the high life, earning good money, it wasn’t easy to change, but I decided I had to get healthy, and at first to me that meant get fit, but then I started educating myself about nutrition.”

Christian and Signe soon became very passionate about the kinds of foods they were eating and what they were feeding their two boys – Cornelius and William.

They started investigating food safety in Vietnam and around the world and just how fresh produce was actually grown and cultivated.

With his new interest Christian moved to a different workplace – still in an executive position, but one that brought him closer

to the food industry - and started learning about the chemicals and manipulation of fresh foods to make it look a certain way, grow quicker and last on the shelf longer.

“I started changing our diets, started moving toward whole foods, natural foods, foods that haven’t been tainted by unhealthy chemicals,” Christian said.

“From that initial food company, I went to work for a large multinational in agriculture. I visited many farms and I was shocked by what I saw. Unhappy animals that were malnourished, maltreated and living on antibiotics.

“Vegetables and fruits that were grown and treated with an abundance of chemicals and irrigated with heavily polluted water. The impression was as far from my childhood memories of farm visits in Denmark as you can get. “ Christian pointed out that farming in Vietnam isn’t industrialised yet in the way it is in many western countries. Despite that, livestock are often fed or injected with antibiotics to induce growth and to prevent inflammation and sickness. Crops are supported with the use of chemical fertilisers, pesticides and many other treatments.

“The risk is the antibiotics accumulate in our body making us resistant to antibiotics over time and the growth hormones wreak havoc on our body,” he said.

“And our consumption of chemicals used on fruits and vegetables is skyrocketing.

Generally there isn’t an immediate health issue with these things, it accumulates in our bodies over time.”

But he said sourcing organic, ethically produced and chemical free produce is not easy in Vietnam and so ByNature was born.

What Is Organic?

The term organic describes the way in which agricultural products, such as meats, vegetables, seeds and dairy are cultivated and processed.

To be truly organic, foods must be grown on clean soil without chemical fertilisers, pesticides, growth stimulants or preservatives.

Regulations vary around the world, in the US, for instance, products must be produced without any synthetic pesticides, must not be genetically modified and can’t be grown or cultivated using petroleum based fertilisers or sewage sludge based fertilisers.

Livestock used for meat or dairy must have access to the outdoors and should have no traces of antibiotics, growth hormones or animal by-products in them.

To be labelled organic organisations must seek accreditation from approved certifying bodies, which involves an initial audit as well as ongoing random audits, with some authorities the regular audits can occur twice a year, as a minimum. The

ongoing audits are never organised ahead of time. The company seeking certification must pay to be audited each time. And the costs are high, according to Christian.

Along with the actual auditing, there are a number of operating procedures that must be adopted and complied with to ensure ongoing organic status. These regulations add significant costs and labour to food production, which is why organic food often costs far more than regular produce.

Is It Really Better For Us?

The scientific community has mixed views on whether organic produce is actually better for us. A 2009 study by the UK’s Food Standards Agency found there was no evidence organic was a healthier choice.

However evidence has shown there are more vitamins and minerals in organic produce.

“I think it has been proven that natural products are more nutrient dense,” said Christian.

“I don’t think it has to be certified organic necessarily, but it should be free from chemicals and drugs.

“If you know where your food is coming from; how it has been grown and produced, then you will know if it is free from antibiotics, growth hormones and insecticides and whether it’s been sourced ethically.

“The problem is if you don’t know where it’s come from or if you can’t trust the organisation behind the product. That’s where certification is useful.”

Christian and Signe have started working with farmers in Vietnam, but also overseas to source organic meats and seafood.

They are the only company in Vietnam to stock rice that has three different organic certifications – from the EU, the US and Japan.

They are getting ready to add pork, chicken, beef, lamb and seafood products to their list of produce. These will be imported from ethically approved and organically certified producers overseas. In parallel, ByNature is partnering with local farmers to raise animals to their requirements and standards. Ultimately, this will lead to more sustainable, flavourful, nutrient dense meat and seafood that is ultimately safer to consume.

“We are hoping we can raise awareness of what people may actually be ingesting when eating fresh produce,” he said.

“And then to provide a healthy alternative, something that hasn’t been touched by dangerous chemicals or drugs, and that is truly safe and more flavourful to consume.”

To find out more about ByNature go to Facebook: @ByNatureVietnam www.bynature.vn.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 27

28 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Family Medical Practice Psychiatrist Miguel de Seixas, a member of the Royal College of Psychiatrists, explains bipolar affective disorder, one type of mental illness, and how to treat it.

M

ental illness is often experienced in loneliness and isolation, no matter where in the world the sufferer lives.

In Vietnamese society, mental illness is still considered a shameful affliction, and most only think of the stereotyped psychiatric disorders, with sufferers behaving erratically and potentially dangerously. The stigma of mental illness can lead to additional suffering and can be an obstacle to people accessing timely and appropriate treatment.

With education, attitudes are changing, and many people are interested in getting more information, in promoting good mental health and in understanding specific psychiatric conditions.

Bipolar affective disorder is a severe mental illness, present across cultures. With skillful diagnosis and treatment, the clinical outcomes, prognosis and associated risks are significantly improved.

Locals and expatriates from different cultural backgrounds with bipolar affective disorder share a crucial challenge in Vietnam: they need to establish an effective system to manage their condition and minimise the chance of a relapse with less support than would be available in other parts of the globe.

Understanding a little about bipolar affective disorder, and sharing this knowledge with friends and family is an essential part of a system to manage one’s mental health. To really understand what this illness is and how to recognise it, we need to take a closer look at what we mean when we talk about bipolar.

The Condition

Bipolar affective disorder, once known as manic depression, is considered a severe mental illness, at times requiring a high level of care or even hospital treatment. At present there is no known cure, but symptoms can be managed with appropriate and timely treatment.

What typifies the disorder are relatively prolonged episodes of depression, mania (or in a less severe degree, hypomania) and normality. It tends to affect people in the prime of their lives, and is a significant cause of disability, associated with higher rates of divorce, employment issues, hospitalisations, imprisonment and suicide. Given its potentially devastating impact, it is a condition that warrants treatment. With appropriate

medication, psychological interventions and a good awareness of the early signs of relapse, it can be managed well. But it is a chronic condition, so it will not simply disappear.

There are different types of bipolar affective disorder, the most common known as bipolar disorder types I and II. Mania is a term representing a significant change in mental state. Somebody suffering from a manic episode can have spectacularly unusual behavior, involving, for example, reckless driving, public nudity, extreme sexual impropriety, unbridled spending of money, or physical violence. They may have racing thoughts, incoherent speech, hyperactivity, over-talkativeness, extreme impulsivity, no need to sleep, too much energy, euphoria, and may not measure the consequences of their actions. Some people will have psychotic symptoms such as hallucinations or delusional beliefs. There is often a need for hospital treatment, sometimes in special units with greater security if the risk to the patient or to others so requires.

I have witnessed painful moments during treatment when someone recovering from a manic phase realises the implications and consequences of their behaviour. That is part of what makes bipolar such a tragic condition that can destroy people’s lives.

In bipolar type I, these manic episodes are so severe that people cannot function normally when experiencing them. If one can still maintain a reasonable degree of functioning, then we are likely dealing with a hypomanic episode. People who are not familiar with one’s habits may not notice the departure from normal behaviour.

Hypomania is more characteristic of bipolar type II, although depression usually represents the greatest burden of the illness, with long depressive episodes and often delays in diagnosis, primarily due to non-recognition of hypomanic episodes, which can delay the correct treatment. The depressive phase is extremely debilitating, and it can drag on for month after nightmarish month.

Treatment

There are mainly three categories of pharmacological treatments available to sufferers of bipolar disorder: mood stabilisers, and on some occasions, antidepressants. There are also two periods of treatment: the acute treatment of an active episode; and the longer-

term maintenance treatment primarily with mood stabilisers to prevent further episodes.

There are several treatment guidelines and protocols available, but an effective treatment plan needs to be individualised, taking into account the severity of the illness, the frequency and distribution of the episodes, the risks that those episodes carry and the support systems available to the person. In addition, psychological therapies of different modalities can be very important, especially in the depressive phases.

Although we still can’t talk of a cure for bipolar affective disorder, treatment is often effective and recovery is possible. I have seen several patients over the years who got their condition under control and went on to live fulfilling lives.

Relapse Prevention

In a chronic condition like bipolar affective disorder, it is important to recognise the early warning signs of a relapse, be it a depressive or manic one. I usually work with people with bipolar disorder and their families to create “wellbeing plans” that can help them take control of the disorder and manage the symptoms early, before they become a fullblown episode.

The idea is to empower the person to manage their condition by gaining awareness of how the condition manifests in their particular case, identifying subtle changes that may indicate their mental health is again at risk and designing an action plan that allows the person to remain in charge of their own mental health. For example, when someone starts to notice increased stress, irritability, or that it takes them longer to get to sleep, the plan reminds them of what remedial action to take, when to ask for help, who to contact, or when to get to a medical centre.

In a case of relapse, it is important that action is taken promptly. A wellbeing plan is a reminder, a tool to make sure that the patient is actively managing both their general mental health and the particular mental illness. By being informed and proactive, managing bipolar affective disorder can be a lot less daunting.

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HEALTH & WELLNESS

30 AsiaLIFE HCMC

C

hildren and injuries often come hand in hand. Every child is bound to fall over or hurt themselves as they grow up, it’s an instrumental part of learning and developing a sense of awareness to the world around you.

Trips, scuffs and bruises are an inevitable part of childhood, unless you’re planning on surrounding your child in bubble wrap. These kinds of minor injuries can be patched up with a plaster and cuddle from a parent, but there are some more serious injuries that can be avoided altogether with a bit of sensibility.

Head Bangers

Jess Warren discovers some frightening facts about trampolines.

Photo by Jonny Edbrooke.

Bouncing up and down on a trampoline whilst on holiday, Theo, son of Jonny Edbrooke Director of AsiaLIFE, and his older and bigger friend mistimed their jumps. As his friend came down, Theo was hurled into the air, and his head was launched into the other child’s teeth.

Gallons of blood and a quick trip to the emergency department ensued. In the hospital waiting room, Theo and his parents noticed a video warning of the dangers of trampolines.

Perhaps if the video had been seen before Theo and his friend were on the trampoline, their collision could have been avoided. But life doesn’t always work as smoothly as that.

Dr Jonathan Halevy, the medical director for the pediatric division at Family Medical Practice Ho Chi Minh City, says trampolines can be more dangerous than we realise.

Call for Ban

Interestingly, the American Academy of Pediatrics warns against the use of trampolines, at home or in parks, since they can cause serious injuries, he says.

The American Medical Association is also in agreement, and believes that children should not use backyard trampolines, and the sale of trampolines for private recreational use should be stopped.“The use of trampolines can end up in injuries such as sprains, fractures of limbs, teeth and facial bones and even in serious head and spine injuries,” Dr Halevy says.

“A study published in 2016 found that injuries from trampoline parks are on the rise, since they have become so much more popular.“The study found that patients are more likely to be male and the most severe injuries occur in children on average age of 13. It’s not surprising as this age group often try more dangerous jumps and flips, and tend to be more aggressive when sharing a trampoline with friends.”

Safety Equipment

Evidently Theo’s injury is not uncommon among children using trampolines. Dr Halevy said if a parent still decides to allow their child to use a trampoline, they need to make sure the child wears adequate protective gear, including a helmet.

Further injuries can be avoided by making sure that the trampoline is secure,

with a safety net and pads and that the trampoline is level with the ground level in case jumps are more horizontal than vertical.However, a study published by the American Medical Association in 1998 found that prevention strategies such as warning labels, public education, and adult supervision were inadequate to prevent trampoline-based injuries, as most of them occur in backyards, with adult supervision.

The main cause of injury in Theo’s case was the two friends bouncing on the trampoline at the same time. To avoid collision-based injuries, it is best to keep the trampoline to one child at a time.

Playgrounds are often another place where injuries occur. While it would be ridiculous to never let your child play on the swings or monkey bars, there are things you can do as parents to ensure your children are as safe as possible in these situations.

Danger Danger Everywhere

The US Department of Health and Human Services states that the most common injuries occur on monkey bars and climbing equipment in public playgrounds.

Among those that are injured, children aged five to nine have the highest rates of visits to the emergency department. As a parent, there are a few things you can do without stopping the fun altogether. For equipment, such as monkey bars, checking that there is a soft material underneath such as wood chips, sand, or mulch to cushion your child if they fall. After all, monkey bars are a challenge to hold onto.

Another step is to read the signs on playground equipment, as they often state which ages it is designed for. It is best to let your child enjoy themselves on activities designed for their age, height or weight rather than put them at risk of injury by climbing up something much more difficult than their abilities can handle.

The US Department of Health and Human Services states that wellmaintained playgrounds pose fewer risks to children, as they won’t have rusty or broken equipment. Checking that there are guardrails in good condition, and not rusting away, can also help to prevent falls.

While a grazed knee isn’t the end of the world, looking out for tree stumps, rocks or uneven surfaces that could pose a trip hazard, and pointing them out to your child can help. This makes your child more aware of their surroundings, and can provide you with peace of mind as they run around the park.

Hydration

When playing outdoors in high temperature, as is often the case here in Ho Chi Minh City, heat-related injuries or illness can occur. To mitigate this make sure your child stays hydrated, and is effectively covered from the sun during peak-times.

This will help ensure they are less likely to suffer the effects of heat exhaustion.

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What happens when an Australian photographer hosts a tour to one of the most wildlife-rich places on earth?

Words and photos by Adrian Duncan.

32 AsiaLIFE HCMC

I

t’s fair to say I love wildlife photography. So you can imagine how excited I was to get the opportunity to host a tour to Kenya and Uganda. Not only host, but host as a photographer. Let’s just say I didn’t take any convincing.

After an overnight stop in Nairobi our group of five intrepid travellers, our tour guide Jaros and I hit the road. And after several more hours, we were still hitting the road. Actually, I think we were still in Nairobi. Such is the traffic and size of Nairobi that it seemed to take an eternity just to escape the capital city.

It’s tough going in that kind of traffic.

But our group was pumped. We were off to the Masai Mara – the “Mara”!

The Masai Mara, a game reserve of about 1500 square kilometres, is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Kenya and one of the best places for wildlife viewing in Africa and is home to the Big Five – lions, leopards, rhinoceros, elephants and buffalo.

The Mara is the Kenyan section of an eco system that is continuous with the Serengeti (in Tanzania). It is the site of the annual wildebeest migration and of all the places I have been, the best place to view wildlife.

After another hour or two on the road, we were exhausted. But like a mirage Narok appeared before us and it was time for lunch. After a short stop, and now feeling well rested we hit the road again.

The Masai Massage

Narok is about the half way mark between Nairobi and the Masai Mara. But if we thought the road was tough before, now the road gets really rough. If you’ve seen the Long Way Down by Ewan MacGregor and Charley Boorman, you’ll know what I mean. These roads are full of deep crevices and ditches – ahh the “Masai massage” in action. It’s a tough drive to the Mara, but well worth it. If you’re cashed up you can take a charter flight and avoid the

drive. But where’s the challenge in that?

Not far out of Narok we started spotting wildebeest here and there and rapidly the numbers increased. We still still a couple of hours drive from the Mara borders.

jacks, to no avail, we had to be snatchstrapped out. Only to land the whole axle in the warthog hole. More snatch-strapping and we were out again - just. It had been a big morning!

First Sighting

Leopard’s Lunch

It was late afternoon and we were getting close to the lodge, when Jaros yelled out “look over to the left”. A female lion with two cubs was relaxing in the grass. We were still not in the Mara yet. By the time we got to our lodge (which was actually a selection of luxury permanent tents) we were ready for a shower and a cold beer.

But we were finally here.

The view from the dining area of our accommodation was spectacular. It took in the Mara river, with herds of hippo wallowing and giraffe wandering along the banks. It was breathtaking.

We were up early the next day and all eager to begin a full day tour in the Mara.

As we drove through the conservancy toward the Mara, Jaros pointed out the wildlife to us, it was a “Masai giraffe to the left, a hyena to the right”. And in the distance, wading in the marsh we spied a large elephant. The morning saw us observe a large herd of elephant, mongoose, lion, buffalo, crocodile, hippo and baboon. So that’s three of the big five, and a whole lot more in a single morning.

Bumps in the Road

But not everything goes smoothly when you’re travelling, and that is definitely true in Africa. Our wildlife viewing took a turn for the worse when our exit path was blocked by another vehicle while waiting for a possible wildebeest crossing of the Mara River.

We took plan B but as we navigated our way around the other van we landed ‘leaf spring deep’ in a warthog hole. Let me tell you, the middle of a game reserve in the middle of Kenya is not the place you want to get bogged. After trying two high-lift

After a quick lunch we returned to the Mara River to see if we could see a wildebeest crossing, this is after all, one of the highlights of a trip to the Masai Mara and the only place you can witness this natural occurrence. However, while driving back to our ‘spot’ on the Mara River, we had spied a fresh zebra carcass up a tree - a sure sign there must be a leopard nearby.

When the wildebeest still refused to cross the Mara River, our group decided to head back to the tree we had seen dinner in and wait. By this time the tree had about 15 cars around it, all watching and waiting, so we took a spot, crossed our fingers and waited patiently. It actually wasn’t long until the leopard appeared, walked up to the base of the tree, posed and climbed up to the carcass.

Family Affair

I was blown away. Leopards, while not rare, are really good at not being seen. So this was just amazing. But there was still more to come. Another leopard. It turns out, the first leopard was a cub (almost full grown), the second was the mother.

I’ve been to the Masai Mara before and spent time in other wildlife reserves throughout Africa, but it was an amazing experience to see these two leopards greet each other. The cub disappeared back up the tree, while mum did a quick last minute scout of the area, then followed her baby.

You couldn’t wipe the smile of my face.

Yep, gotta love the Masai Mara.

Adrian Duncan is a Melbourne based photographer and tour host. He travelled to Kenya with Two’s a Crowd and RAW Africa Ecotours.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 33

I

’m sitting on a beach gazing out over a small island. A light drizzle is falling around me, but I’m not sure whether it’s the rain, or seaspray coming off the ocean.

In front of me, next to the island, a huddle of boats sit stationed in the water, while a lone boatman fights against the waves to row his small timber boat out to meet them.

But I’m not here to see them. I’m here, with my sister Julie, to try and get a glimpse of Mieu Ba Temple, a small shrine in the middle of Hon Ba island. This is not your usual place of worship.

Sometimes referred to as Lady Temple, the temple was built by fishermen in honour of the Goddess of the Sea. You can only access the temple when the tide is out, revealing a rocky path to cross to the island, so make sure you check with your hotel when the best time to visit is.

Sadly we missed the crossing – it was early, apparently, very early - and there are no boats on the shore to take us to the island, so our views are limited to watching and imagining from the mainland.

We’re in Vung Tau, just two hours by bus, car or ferry from Ho Chi Minh city.

As the closest beach to Ho Chi Minh City, it’s no wonder it’s a popular spot for weekend getaways.

And it’s a city full of surprises.

“The people from Ho Chi Minh City just come to the night markets, they come with their ice boxes, buy their fish and get out,” one local expat tells me.

While another tells me two days isn’t possibly long enough in Vung Tau. “There is so much to see, you need at least a week,” he says.

I had researched the city before I left Ho Chi Minh, of course, had scoured websites to find out the best the coastal city had to offer, and was left with an impression that Vung Tau was a small seaside village with just a smattering of interesting attractions.

And yet what I found, as I explored the city for two days, was a large city centre with a vast array of sights to visit.

Perhaps what surprised me most about Vung Tau is the many layers of the city. Just when I think I’ve got it figured out, have got my bearings and think I’ve made note of all that there is to see, I discover more.

We stayed one night each at the beautiful sister properties, The Wind Boutique Resort and The Wind Mountainside Boutique Hotel. These luxurious and friendly places 34 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Diane Squires explores the surprising getaway destination of Vung Tau.

are just around the corner from each other, midway between Front Beach and Back Beach and halfway up Small Mountain, which makes for stunning views. The hotel offers a free shuttle to the major sights and will come and pick you up when you’re finished. If you don’t have a local phone, the hotel will even lend you one so that you can contact them if you need to. The Wind Boutique Hotel its currently undergoing renovations. Jay, the hotel manager, says as well as extra villas, they’re adding a rooftop swimming pool to better capture the panorama of Vung Tau. Our first stop, after arriving in Vung Tau by ferry late afternoon, is Bai Truoc (Front Beach) where we watch the locals brave the rocky waters. We walk the six kilometres around to Bai Sau (Back Beach), identifying bars and cafes, temples and tourist spots along the way.

Back Beach, the more popular swimming beach of the two is full of tourists making the most of the last of the daylight hours and we watch as the sun sets over the Pacific Ocean.

The following day we are up early for a full day of sightseeing.

Our first stop is Quan The Am Bo Tat, the Pagoda of Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva, a striking temple that sits on Tran Phu Street, the main road that follows the coast around Vung Tau, and overlooks the ocean.

Immediately inside the ornate gates is a giant statue of Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva

standing on a lotus. The contrast between the stark white statue and the colourful pillars and walls of the temple is striking.

From the temple we make our way to the cable car and head up to check out the city’s largest and most heavily spruiked tourist attraction – Ho May Park. Ho May is part hotel, part amusement park and part ecotourism resort. Sitting on top of a hill, the resort includes a waterslide park, a temple of national heroes, religious temples, a zipliner, rollercoaster, dodgem cars, magic shows. The list is endless and while some are starting to look a little dated, you just never quite know what you’re going to stumble across next.

The next sight on our list is located just near the base of the cable car – Bach Dinh or White Palace.

The White Palace was built in 1898 as a summer villa for the French Indochina governors. The building, which sits on a hill overlooking the ocean – again in Tran Phu Street – is a classic French building and is surprisingly small for a palace. But it’s a stunning building, set amidst lush tropical grounds. Inside is a smattering of antique furniture and an interesting display of Chinese artefacts collected from a shipwreck in Cau Islet.

Perhaps one of the most notable and popular attractions in Vung Tau though is the Tuong Dai Chua Kito Vua – Christ the Redeemer; a 32 metre high statue of Christ that sits atop Little Mountain and overlooks

the city. It is six metres smaller than it’s counterpart in Rio, but still very impressive.

We climb the 811 steps up the side of the mountain – there is no vehicle access – and pass crisp white statues of Jesus’s disciples as well as a couple of tourist gift shops and food outlets.

The statue is just visible from the road below, above the treeline on Little Mountain, but it’s only by climbing all those steps that you get the full experience of this imposing statue.

From the Christ statue it’s just a short walk across the road and along the beach to Hon Ba, but as we gaze down from the roadside we note that the tide is in, again.

After watching the sunset over the island we make our way to the night market. A single road sells trinkets and toys for children, while all around stall after stall offers fresh seafood for purchase or for dinner. It’s worth a visit, just for the spectacle.

Vung Tau is an interesting mix of expat bars and local restaurants, of religious temples and giant religious statues – as well as Christ the Redeemer there is a giant Buddha – of lovely beaches and sunsets and crowded city streets.

And be sure to go by boat, to start the coastal feeling before you even arrive in this charming city. *AsiaLIFE was a guest of Wind Hotel and Resort.

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8

CITY DRINKS

Saigon Craft 68 Ly Long Tuong St, Phu My Hung, D7 (corner of Nguyen Duc Canh) www.facebook.com/saigoncraftbar

Peter Cornish checks out Phu My Hung’s premier craft beer bar.

Photos by Romain Garrigue.

When we rocked up at Saigon Craft there was little reason to ask owner Matthew Scofield why he opened the place, it was written on the wall. “Because I care about supporting local craft brewers, because real beer doesn’t contain chemicals like silicon and ammonia, because I care about words like natural and fresh, I drink craft beer.”

And you can’t argue with that.

A little over a year ago there were few places you could get a decent beer in District 7’s Phu My Hung. The average bar served an average beer, there was little to get excited about, and if you wanted a glass of something a little more flavourful than Tiger the chances are you headed into town for the evening.

Saigon Craft has 24 of the best of local beers on tap, and another dozen or so in bottles. They’re chosen for their drink-ability - “if it sells, it’s a winner.” Matthew explained, and having built close relationships with the best of Vietnam’s craft brewers, the bar pours beers that no-one else is pouring in Phu My Hung, and gets access to the new beers first.

A quick look at the labels tied to his taps shows us names like Tropic Thunder LoLo’s Pilsner (VND100,000 for a medium glass), a crisp refreshing drink that goes down a treat on a warm summer’s evening and is brewed exclusively for the bar.

More familiar names like Heart of Darkness’s Pitiless Folly (VND100,000 for a medium 36 AsiaLIFE HCMC

glass), Te Te Wheat (VND95,000 for a medium glass) and the ever drinkable Rooster Blonde (VND55,000 for a medium glass) are all to be found on the taps, providing plenty of choice for the seasoned craft drinker or someone wanting to be a little more adventurous in their choice of beer.

The family friendly bar is located opposite Saigon South International School and so of course a regular for the teacher crowd, but in the heart of Korea Town, it attracts a good mix of expats and locals. There’s a sizable terrace outfront, sheltered from the road by mature trees, offering a shaded space from the afternoon sun and to make the most of the evening breeze.

The food menu is a mix of pub grub and a newly arrived German chef is preparing dishes like cheese and antipasti platters (VND185,000/145,000), loaded baked potatoes (VND70,000), an Australian beef Saigon Craft Burger (VND190,000) and BBQ pork ribs (VND95,000). Brunch is served at the weekend and the coffee is Lavazza.

The Teachers’ Club loyalty programme offers discounts and free beer, and with live music twice a month, a weekly quiz night and the largest screen in PMH showing sport, it’s not hard to see why this bar has made a name for itself as a craft beer mecca away from the centre of town.

EDDIE’S NEW YORK DINER 71 Thao Dien Rd, District 2, HCMC www.facebook.com/EddiesSaigon

Diane Squires samples the fare at the newest kid in District 2’s food scene – Eddie’s New York diner. Photos by Jonny Edbrooke.

A who’s who of 50s icons watch over us as we settle into our booth in the latest foodie hangout in District 2.

There’s Marilyn, James Dean and Marlon Brando, Louis Armstrong, Lucille Ball and Audrey Hepburn.

The US diner feeling hits the moment you walk through the doors of Eddie’s New York Diner. There’s the long counter, the bar stools and the milkshake maker just visible over the top of the counter, but there’s also the ceiling’s rounded edges, a nod to the history of US diners, which started out in discarded train carriages.

The menu is an interesting mix of deli and diner fare, with French fries and burgers, (of course) as well as sandwiches, bagels, French toast, eggs, soups and salads.

Let’s start with the burgers,

because this is, after all, what you expect in a 1950s style diner.

Just one mouthful of the Classic Diner Burger (VND159,000) and I feel like I’ve been transported to Al’s Diner on the set of Happy Days. I’m sure this is what burgers must have tasted like in the 50s – wholesome, healthy, and pure.

Not to be outdone by the food the drinks menu is equally impressive, with shakes in a myriad of flavours, including peanut butter and chocolate, cheesecake, and traditional chocolate.

We tried the peanut butter and chocolate (VND119,000), because, well, we just couldn’t resist the sound of it.

Admittedly we were worried it might be too sweet. It wasn’t, it was a smooth, delicate shake with just a hint of peanut butter.

Everything in this diner is

made from scratch, down to the apple sauce, and all produce, apart from the US beef used in the burgers and the Australian steak served on the breakfast menu, is sourced from as close to the restaurant as possible.

We expected burgers and milkshakes; this is a diner after all, but there is so much more to Eddie’s menu.

The Potato Latkes with homemade apple sauce (VND129,000) are served as an appetizer, but are good enough, and large enough, to order for a main.

The Corned Beef Hash Skillet (VND199,000), with minced corned beef, home fried potatoes, peppers and onions and topped with two eggs, was the standout dish.

Next we tried the Thinly Shaved Rare Roast Beef (VND199,000), served with

homemade horseradish on the side and on sourdough bread. The sandwich was full of beef and it’s worth lathering the horseradish on – both are delicious.

The Matzo Ball Soup (VND79,000), a traditional Jewish dish, which consists of bread dumpling, served in a smooth broth, was an unusual, yet tasty option for those wanting something a little lighter.

We rounded off our meal with a delicious freshly-baked cinnamon bun (VND49,000), topped with a sour cream and butter icing that adds a subtle sweetness to the bun.

Oh, and they haven’t forgotten the little ones.

There’s a kids menu that comes complete with colouring activities and puzzles. Prices start from VND129,000.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 37

SOUL CURRY 34 Huynh Thuc Khang Street, Ben Nghe Ward, D.1 www.facebook.com/SOUL-CURRY-214510259157170

Peter Cornish tucks into Indian and Sri Lankan food in a stylish setting.

Photos by Angeli Castillo.

The corner of Ton That Dam and Huynh Thuc Khang is starting to develop a bit of a reputation for food and drink, with everyone’s favourite fish and chip shop (Union Jack’s) and the city’s lowest rooftop bar (In SaiGong) attracting plenty of custom.

And now a new addition to the cross-roads is offering some welcome tastes of India and Sri Lanka with an upmarket vibe and affordable prices.

Soul Curry is not your typical curry house so, as tempting as it might be, don’t turn up there after an evening on the lash expecting to give it large with a chicken vindaloo and a couple of extra poppadoms.

This is curry meets fine dining in a modern, intimate environment serving up 38 AsiaLIFE HCMC

a fusion of Indian cuisine with some local Vietnamese flavours.

Spread over three levels with an additional mezzanine housing an impressive collection of premium Indian and Sri Lankan teas, the downstairs floor is ideal for lunch with colleagues or an intimate evening meal. Larger parties are seated in upstairs rooms overlooking the street below.

With experienced Indian chefs running the kitchen, the flavours are the peppery spices of Sri Lanka, and the tandoor specialities of northern India.

The tastes are suitable for everyone’s palate with dishes spiced to your personal choice.

First up was a Sri Lankan speciality, hot butter cuttlefish

(VND110,000) marinated then deep fried and tossed in a spicy sauce. It’s a little hot in taste, as the name suggests, with a mild chilli kick but succulent and beautifully cooked. Paneer tikka masala (VND165,000) is one for the vegetarians, pieces of cottage cheese marinated in a creamy yogurt sauce then baked in a traditional tandoor. Mouthwateringly rich and mild in taste, and perfect for washing down with an icy cold beer.

Next we enjoyed a spectacularly green chicken pudhina tikka (VND130,000), tender chicken pieces marinated in a coriander mint sauce and again cooked in the traditional clay oven tandoor.

We also tried egg hoppers (VND140,000), another signature dish from Sri Lanka and southern Indian. This dish

is its own bowl! The bowl is a fried pancake-like affair made from fermented rice flour, with an egg cooked inside.

Those familiar with Sri Lankan and southern Indian cuisine will see favourites on the menu such as Sri Lankan biryani chicken (VND175,000) tandoor prawn (VND175,000) bhindi masala (VND90,000) and the ever-popular chicken tikka masala (VND165,000).

This restaurant promises and delivers a great curry and is already creating a name for itself on the foody circuit of the city.

We’re already planning a return visit to try the mushroom tikka (VND110,000) and the whole fish tandoori (VND175,000), marinated in yoghurt, freshlyground spices and grilled in the tandoor.

HERBIVORA SAIGON Ben Thanh Street Food Market. 26-28-30 Thu Khoa Huan Street, District 1 www.facebook.com/HerbivoraSaigon

Peter Cornish discovers amazing vegan comfort food at the Ben Thanh Street Food Market.

Photos by Romain Garrigue.

There’s a good number of vegetarian and vegan restaurants in the city now, most of them highlighting the health benefits of a plant-based diet, serving a selection of delicious, wholesome foods that make us feel good about our healthy life choices.

But there’s a new player on the scene that, while sticking with a 100% plantbased, organic, homemade, no chemicals, no additives menu, has opted for a comfort food route where healthy lifestyle choices of salads and quinoa take second place.This is about having your cake, eating it too, and enjoying every bite.

Herbivora Saigon was opened just a couple of months back by Liz Eddy, an American lady who exudes the benefits of a plant based diet, and practices what she preaches.

Located in the food court on Thu Khoa Huan street just behind BenThanh Market, her small unit is found on the left hand side, half way up, tucked away on a corner.

The market food court is growing in popularity, with the selection of food stalls now including the first 100% vegan option. Communal, shared table seating at the front and back attracts tourists and locals alike, keen to try the choices of food on offer and enjoy the vibrant atmosphere.

Herbivora’s menu is not large, written on a couple of blackboards hung on the wall, and food is prepared offsite at a central kitchen. Liz also runs vegan cooking classes from the kitchen where you can learn to make some of the food Herbivora sells, including deliciously succulent brownies

and some amazingly moist chocolate chip cookies. Yup, it’s not often I describe food as amazing, but these were. And 100% vegan too.

The order of the day is generously sized servings of American style comfort food.

We’re talking cheese burgers, biscuits, mac ‘n’ cheese, fried chikin, pancakes, waffles, cheeze fries, voodoo fries, pop tarts, cookies, brownies and combos of all of the above, all from about VND45,000 to about VND170,000 and averaging around VND100,000 for burgers and fried chikin. Good value.

By the time this article is published the menu will have grown in size, with new options including vegan fish and chips. All the food is 100% vegan, organic and homemade, fresh, daily, including the

buns, waffles, mayo and butter, and the burger has a gluten free option, in case you were wondering While many of the ingredients are sourced locally, hard to find vegan products are brought in from the US and UK, including biodegradable plates and cutlery.

As well as being vegan, Liz is a keen environmentalist and believes in leaving as small a carbon footprint as possible, so everything she does with Herbivora Saigon follows this principle.

With plans to open a bistro in Go Vap, the food court restaurant is a convenient choice for vegans and vegetarians wanting to add a little comfort to their diet.

Sure to become a popular spot quickly.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 39

Barbara Adam gets the low-down on a new culinary guide to Saigon.

H

ungry? Good. I’ll take you to a little place I know.

You too can use these winning lines to impress family and friends, with the help of a new culinary guide to the Ho Chi Minh City, written and styled by two food-loving entrepreneurs.

Sydney-based Leanne Kitchen, who started out as a chef, now writes about and photographs food all around the world.

Three years ago, she set up Red Pork Press with sidekick Antony Suvalko, who hails from the Land of the Long White Cloud.

“We started Red Pork Press because we are both passionate about food and passionate about travel,” Antony told AsiaLIFE.”We were constantly being asked by friends where they should dine when they were overseas and we started to think there might be a niche for culinary-focussed travel guides.

“Yes, you can get endless information on the net but having it curated for you, and in a lovely, pocketable package, makes more sense to us. So we decided to publish books that help get the best from a place, culinarily speaking.”

One of Red Pork Press’s first projects was a series of cityspecific culinary travel guides called In 12 Dishes. Ho Chi Minh City in 12 Dishes is the second book in the series, released hot on the heels of Shanghai in 12 Dishes.

Leanne and Antony chose Ho Chi Minh City for a very simple reason: the food here is sublime. “Zingy with herbs, salty with the smack of fish sauce, brimming with the goodness of vibrant produce and enlivened with notes of coconut, spice, smoke, lime and chilli, food here has crunch and flavour in spades.” That’s how they describe the city’s food scene in their book’s blurb.

“We chose Ho Chi Minh City because we’d both been there numerous times before and loved the food,” Antony said.

(Editor’s note: Leanne has even joined my husband and I on a Saigon Street Eats tour!)

“It’s not hard to fall for Vietnamese food and Ho Chi Minh City fare has a freshness and vibrancy that’s second to none.

Our books are all about food culture discovered through the broader travel experience and there aren’t too many places with a more enticing food culture than Ho Chi Minh City.”

“We love the energy of the city and the way various districts are distinct, with completely different vibes,” he said. “To us, Ho Chi Minh City feels endless, in terms of local dining possibilities. Oh, and we are coffee addicts too, so it goes without saying we would want to be in Ho Chi Minh City.”

The book shows you what to eat as well as where to eat.

Australian celebrity chef Luke Nguyen has given the guide a ringing endorsement, saying the dining recommendations are “spot on”.

“Our travel style is always to try and go where locals go - full immersion,” Antony said. “We think that’s a big part any travel adventure and makes for the most memorable experiences. When we can’t speak a language, invariably some kind soul comes to our aid and we end up having a lovely interaction. This is the essence of travel to us, even if we just communicate via sign language and smiles… and it only comes when you get out of comfort zones and away from tourist traps.”

“Our books are designed with this kind of travel in mind (although we like a decent bar at the end of a day too and invariably include a selection of worthy watering holes in our books). We are committed to finding out about culinary culture, not restaurant scenes, so our books won’t guide you to Western-style fine diners.”

Structured around 12 iconic dishes, the book guides users to where these can be found with pho (soup noodles), banh mi (baguette), banh xeo (sizzling pancake) and barbecue among the essential dozen.

Paperback and Kindle versions of Ho Chi Minh City in 12 Dishes are available on Amazon and on www.redporkpress.com.

40 AsiaLIFE HCMC

BANH DUC

STEAMED RICE CAKE

BY TRISTAN NGO

Photo from internet

B

anh duc is a plain rice cake made from non-glutinous rice flour and water. You can find banh duc in pretty much every region of Vietnam. By my count there are at least 14 different types of banh duc!

However, I will focus more on the few that I like the most, which include banh duc nong (served hot), banh duc tom / thit (steamed coconut rice cake with shrimps or pork) and banh duc ngot (sweet).

Banh duc is not a well known dish amongst the expats and tourists and definitely not as popular compared to dishes such as pho, banh mi (Vietnamese baguette), banh xeo (Vietnamese pancake) and com tam (broken rice). Banh duc is known as a common food (mon an binh dan) for the average Vietnamese because it originated in the countryside, is inexpensive and is a very plain-looking dish.

In Hanoi and the central region, banh duc is served hot, hence the name banh duc nong (nong means hot). The rice flour and water are boiled until thick or flan-like, topped with cooked ground pork, chopped nam meo (wood ear mushroom), fried tofu, hanh phi (fried onion) and fish sauce. It is a very popular dish especially in the winter time in the north and central region.

Another popular variation is called banh duc dau phong (peanuts), whole peanuts are added when boiled, and the mix is then cooled and cut into small bite-size pieces. It should be served plain with either nuoc tuong (soy sauce) or mam tom (fermented shrimp paste).

In Saigon you have banh duc dua (steamed rice cake infused with coconut milk). It is a much thicker style, about an inch to an inch and a half thick. Steam it with coconut milk and let it cool. Once cool it is then cut into bite-sized rectangular pieces, topped with a stir fried mixture of ground pork, green onions, cu sang (chopped

Chef, patron and owner of Skewers Restaurant The Elbow Room and Cafe Sweet Street.

jicama) and chopped wood ear mushroom. Add mo hanh (scallions oil), hanh phi (fried onions) and nuoc cham (marinated fish sauce).

Another version is to substitute ground pork for ground dried shrimp flakes.

Another popular dish in Saigon is called banh duc ngot (sweet).

Banh duc ngot is considered more as a dessert because it is sweet.

It is infused with la dua (pandan) to make it green, with a lovely pandan fragrance. It should be topped with rang me (toasted sesame seeds), nuoc duong gung (ginger sugar syrup) and finished with coconut cream.

1. Banh Duc Nong Ba Gia 76 Cuu Long Street, District 10. Open 2pm to 10pm daily.

2. Banh Duc Phan Dang Luu 116/11 Phan Dang Luu Street, Phu Nhuan District. Open 3pm to 6pm daily.

3. Banh Duc Nong Ty Muoi 212/72 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Tan Dinh Ward, District 1.

Open 11am to 8pm Monday to Friday.

4. Banh Duc La Dua - Ba Nam I know this one is quite far from the city but if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re ever in Hoc Mon (they are well-known for the banh duc pandan), give them a try. They have a facebook page so you can check them out. Maybe they will make a delivery. www.facebook.com/banhducladua-banam.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 41

42 AsiaLIFE HCMC

O

Words by Peter Cornish.

Photos by Jonny Edbrooke.

riginally a London lad, Jack Clayton graduated from Leeds Met with a degree in graphic arts and design before leaving the UK in 2010 bound for Australia. He spent a couple of years there, enjoying life and working odd-jobs, before setting off with a friend to continue his travels exploring Southeast Asia.

Following the well trodden tourist trail of Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam, he ended up in Ho Chi Minh City with the option of teaching English. The city ticked a lot of boxes and wanting to settle for a while, he decided to stick around and see what unfolded for him. That was six years ago, and like many of us he has no plans to leave.

The flexible timetable of teaching English has allowed him to reconnect with his artistic talents, gradually reducing his teaching load and spending more time focussing on his art. While in Australia he had spent time living in Kakadu National Park where he was inspired by the textures and methods of rock paintings by the indigenous people.

During his time at university Jack developed his skills as a printmaker and illustrator and now specialises in woodcut printmaking, taking inspiration from the traditional Vietnamese woodcut art of places such as Dong Ho village in Ha Bac province, just north of Hanoi. Dating back before the Ly Dynasty of the 12th century, Vietnam has a long history of capturing folk tales in woodcut prints with intricately carved blocks of wood depicting cultural scenes handed down from generation to generation.

The traditional styles of Vietnamese woodcut art vary, with some based on the concept of don tuyen binh do, or single line simple drawings, and others using the thuan tay hay mat technique, meaning easy to draw and easy to see. Many of the styles have been influenced and adapted over the years, but the work of Dong Ho has remained unchanged over time, said to reflect people’s innermost feelings, wishes

and simple dreams.

Taking further inspiration from Frans Masereel, a Flemish artist known especially for his street scene woodcuts, Jack’s works combines traditional techniques in images inspired by his travels around Vietnam, especially those he encounters in daily life. Streets of Vietnam, his first exhibition of 2018 displayed at Soma Art Cafe, was a loosely curated collection, drawing upon street culture art he had seen while traveling, blended with his own style.

Often basing his work on photos he has taken, Jack relief prints his images by hand, first drawing the scenes on to the woodblocks he works with before carefully carving out the scenes using a reduction technique.

Mirroring the final image, he works the block backwards starting with the lighter colours, white or empty space, then cutting out further for each layer of the print and reducing the block further while building the final image itself. Once the final image has been printed the block can no longer be used.

His upcoming exhibition in December this year will be displayed at the March Gallery in Hoi An and use natural materials including local hand-made paper for a more traditionally authentic look and feel.

Still unnamed, this collection will again take inspiration from Dong Ho and Frans Masereel, capturing the colours and architecture of Hoi An in a continuation of his Vietnamese street scenes. The exhibition will feature one large illustration, depicting a visual representation of the tourist mecca’s old town, and a series of smaller woodcuts showing day-to-day scenes captured around the city.

With a constant flow of tourists visiting Hoi An, the collaboration with March Gallery represents an exciting opportunity for Jack, showing his art to a much wider, international audience. He will visit London again this summer, taking his art with him and finding further inspiration for future collections.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 43

listings

hotel & travel HANOI

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 024 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 024 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only five minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 024 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international

restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 024 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY

Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 028 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues.

Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 / Tel: 028 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with a gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Renaissance Riverside 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 028 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com 349 rooms/suites with panoramic views over Saigon River. Conference/banquet facilities, rooftop pool, gym, two restaurants.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 / Tel: 028 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon

Luxury downtown hotel: Level 23 bar, Mojo café, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 / Tel: 028 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

HUE, HOI AN & DANANG

InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula Tel: 0236 393 8888 danang.intercontinental.com A world of poetic experiences and jungle-clad romance in a place that cloaks you with luxury. The mastery of traditional Vietnamese design meets modern architectural flair in this distinctive retreat within the dense rainforest of mythical Monkey Mountain.

Nam Hai Tel: 0235 3940 000 www.ghmhotels.com/en/namhai/ Luxury resort accommodation from single villas to sumptuous five-room dwellings with private pools. Facilities include 8 private spa villas; 3 beachfront swimming pools; library; and tennis, basketball and badminton courts.

Khanh Hoa / Tel: 0258 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms, divided into villas and condos, catering by well-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito's bar.

SCUBA DIVING

Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 0908 781 756 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

TRAVEL AGENTS

NHA TRANG

Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: Level 8 157 Pasteur, D3 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District Tel: 024 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com Tailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam,

EXO Travel HCMC: 41, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3519 4111 saigonagency@exotravel.com HANOI: 3rd Fl, 66A, Tran Hung Dao Hoan Kiem Tel: 024 3828 2150 hanoiagency@exotravel.com www.traveltrade.exotravel.com

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 0258 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa.

listings

food & drink DISTRICT 1 Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 028 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 028 3823 8424 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 028 5410 1093 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Anan Saigon 89 Ton That Dam, District 1 Serves up some incredible modern Vietnamese food thanks to chef and owner Peter Coung Franklin. The restaurant and rooftop bar’s name means ‘eat-eat’, and that’s certainly what the menus encourage you to do.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 028 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Bamboo Chic Le Meridien, 3C Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 028 6263 6688 Slick, minimalistic restaurant boasting a stunning view of the Saigon River as well as a menu of high­quality cuisine that mixes Japanese and coastal Chinese styles. Worth a visit, even if it’s just for a cocktail.

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, corner of Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts.

Wood-fired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Bep Me In 136/9 Let Thanh Ton, D1 Home-cooked Vietnamese dishes from all regions of Vietnam, with no MSG, just like you’d be served at a family party in the countryside.

Boulevard Grill Bar Leman Luxury Apartments, 22 Truong Dinh, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City boulevardgrill.com.vn Boulevard might look a little like a cafe in a shopping centre, but the two Vietnamese chefs in the kitchen send out fine dining-style dishes. The comprehensive menu carries a wide array of excellent steaks, salads, pastas and other grilled items.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1

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94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.  Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia.

El Camino 91 Pasteur, District 1 Tel: 09 09 26 19 88 A friendly neighbourhood bar blasting old school hip hop and serving delicious Korean-style tacos.

Guanabana 23 Ly Tu Trong, District 1 Tel: 09 09 82 48 30 Guanabana brings a California approach with its all-natural range of healthy smoothies. The smoothies are available in three varieties and are priced between VND 45,000 and VND 65,000.

Heart of Darkness Craft Brewery 31D Ly Tu Trong, D 1 While Heart of Darkness remains the brewery it always was and always will be, it’s now gaining a well-earned reputation as a place to chow down on some pretty decent grub.

Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

In Saigong Rooftop Bar 27-29 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 Tel: 028 9934 4350 The city’s only Wollongong-themed bar, this rooftop bar is a relaxing place to unwind with local and craft beers, cocktails and a varied menu.

Jake’s BBQ 50 Pasteur Street, D1 Tel: 028 3825 1311 Genuine, warm service from Chef Jake himself sets this American Barbeque joint apart. A true slice of Americana in Vietnam. Large portions, smoked meats, and the only ‘Jucy Lucy’ burger in town!  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 028 3822 9926 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Dist 1, HCMC Tel: 028 3827 0931 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. The Dong Khoi branch has recently been renovated with new menu and decor.



Kay’s Vegan Bistro Hem 84 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 090 395 81 69 Homemade vegan delights from all over Southeast Asia and beyond. With daily specials and ingredients available to take home, it’s a hit with the locals.

Koto 19 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Da Kao Ward, Di1 T: +84 28 3822 9357 E: rese.hcm@koto.com.au This is the Saigon arm of the renowned organisation that began in Hanoi a

decade ago. Vietnamese food is prepared with innovative twist by young people Koto are helping get a start in the hospitality industry and on a path for a better life.

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 028 3823 2223 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Kissho boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

La Brasserie 2nd Floor, Hotel Nikko Saigon 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 028 3925 7777 Offers wide international buffet stations for breakfast and dinner. Nightly live music performance.

La Chola de Lima 74 Hai Ba Trung, D 1 www.lacholadelima.com Tel: 028 3823 8793 The long-awaited newcomer to the food-centric courtyard at 74 Hai Ba Trung, the diversity of Peruvian cuisine is celebrated with a fusion menu showcasing Creole, Japanese and Chinese flavours.

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 028 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway, decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Layla - Eatery & Bar 2nd Floor, 63 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 028 3827 2279 Created by food and cocktail lovers who wanted to share their passion for great food, amazing cocktails and Australianstyle hospitality in a welcoming converted apartment overlooking Dong Khoi Street.

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 028 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Nightly a la carte menu with dishes going from 100k VND. Mad Cow Wine and Grill Level 30, Pulman Hotel, 148 Tran Hung Dao Street, D 1 Tel: 028 3838 8639 Casual, almost a homely style of cuisine, and sourced primarily from Australia. “We pride ourselves on great steaks and seafood, with a grass-fed orientated menu” according to Danny Grimshaw, chef and butcher at Mad Cow. Malt 46 – 48 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 09 1848 4763 American-style bar that offers good beer, shuffleboard and an interesting pub grub menu in a casual setting.

Manmaru 71 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Japanese izakaya with a solid lineup of affordable beers, sakes and whiskies.

Whether you choose the casual, pub­like experience downstairs, or the formal dining terrace upstairs, expect excellent food and even better prices.

Service is friendly and efficient and always welcoming.

Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Ming Court 3rd Floor, Hotel Nikko Saigon 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 028 3925 7777 Featuring authentic Chinese cuisine and a wide selection of delectable All-youcan-eat Dim Sum. Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end café with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs.

Good business coffee or lunch venue.

Mountain Retreat 36 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 90 719 45 57 A rustic restaurant perched above downtown offering a secluded getaway and tasty traditional food.

NAMO Tuscan Grill 146-148 Pasteur, D 1 Tel; 08 3822 1431 Focussing on rustic Italian fare coming off of their custom-built wood-fired grill. The layout is open and relaxed, reflecting the colour and energy of Florence and the Tuscany region.

Old Compass Cafe 3rd Floor 63/11 Pasteur St, D1 (next to Liberty Citypoint Hotel) Tel: +848 3827 2878 The Old Compass Cafe has managed to position itself as a quiet oasis of calm amidst the city’s chaos. The menu is simple and offers a choice of breakfast, lunch dinner, gourmet sandwiches, pastries and desserts.

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Quan Bui Add 1: 17A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 028 38 29 15 15 Add 2: 55 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 From the team behind Quan Bui, the popular casual Vietnamese eatery on the north edge of District 1, is this fourfloor fine-dining restaurant in downtown Saigon. The chic design and ambience, as well as its rooftop garden, are designed to attract a more up-market clientele.

Quan Ut Ut 168 Vo Van Kiet, D1 Tel: 028 39 14 45 00 American-style barbecue meets Vietnam-style dining with big wooden tables and benches that are reminiscent of an open-air quan. Serving a wide range of smoked and barbecued meats.

Quince 37bis Ky Con, D1 Tel: 2838 21 8661 Sister restaurant to Quince Bangkok, serving high-end cuisene developed by chef Julien Perraund working from the open kitchen. A short simple menu based on fresh local produce.

boat house 6 outline copy.pdf

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 - 23 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 028 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world.

Private rooms are available.

Relish and Sons 44 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 012 07 214 294 105-107 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 90 900 4294 Facebook.com/RelishAndSons Burgers are the stars of the show in Relish & Sons, with six varieties, all composed of different but expertly combined ingredients.  Romeo and Juliet Times Square Building, 57 – 69F Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 028 38 236 688 TheReverieSaigon.com Underground restaurant of the newlyopened Reverie Saigon, Romeo and Juliet is reinventing local dining to encourage the kind of slower, savourthe-moment experience that allows guests to enjoy the space’s ambiance, food and top-notch service.

Royal Pavilion Reverie Saigon Hotel, 4th Floor, 22 36 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 028 3823 6688 Located in the Reverie Saigon Hotel, the Royal Pavilion serves up classic Cantonese cuisine in fine dining style.

Featuring a menu of epic proportions, there is sure to be something for everyone.

Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 028 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu. Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 028 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Sancho’s Craft Beer and Mexican Kitchen 207 Bui Vien, D1 090 126 82 26 Real Mexi-Cali food with passion, served with a selection of crafts beers.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 028 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab.

Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas. Stoker Woodfired Grill & Bar 44 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 090 729 2725 District 1 venue with spacious bar downstairs and upstairs dining room.

Serving a full selection of home aged US and Australian beef complimented by a delicious sides.

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Tomatito 171 Calmette, D1 Tomatito is all about the sexy, from the bold and colourful Spanish-themed interior showcasing El Willy’s unique personality, to the hot Latin passion in his interpretation of traditional Spanish tapas.

Tandoor 39A-39B Ngo Duc Ke, D1 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events.  The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 028 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

The Racha Room 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 09 08 791 412 RachaRoom.com.vn With street and hawker specialties from Thailand prepared under one roof – and in one room – The Racha Room is a restaurant-cum-lounge fit for a king.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 C Tel: 028 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture M outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, Y modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets. CM Tuk Tuk Thai Bistro MY 17/11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 028 35 21 85 13 CY Tuktukthaibistro.com Tuk Tuk, a chic new modern Thai CMY bistro. With three floors of seating, an K open-air roof area and an array of Thai dishes to excite your palate.

Union Jack’s Fish and Chips Upper Deck, 130 Ton That Dam, D1 Jack’s Fish & Chips is a tribute to this traditional British fare that harks back to the childhood of owner Matt Ryan, who grew up on the A30 road from London.

Urban Kitchen + Bar 18 Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 028 62 506 363 UrbanKitchenBar.com Urban Kitchen takes a nuanced approach to Western cuisine, producing an eclectic compilation of regional North American dishes – whether it’s comfort food of the American south, Quebecois specialties or East Coast-inspired.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items. Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

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DISTRICT 2

ambience, with a gorgeous garden setting designed to attract a more upmarket clientele.

Buddha Bar

D2 By Rupert Dean

IMBIBE THE REAL OLD TIMERS OF THE WINE WORLD In vineyard terms, when vines reach an age of 30 then the vineyard qualifies for the title “old vines”. This title has acquired a certain mystical quality over the years and involves an explanation.

David and Callum Powell from Powell & Son Wines from the Barossa Valley, Australia, recently visited Saigon and we debated this over a bowl of pho. Callum who trained under Auguste Clape at Cornas in the Rhone Valley, felt that: “vine age is very important to our wines. Almost all of our top wines are made from vineyards with over 120-yearold vines. However, vine age is just one part of the puzzle of making great wine. You also need good soil, climate, vine material, viticulture and winemaking... so it’s not the key element, but it most certainly helps.”

His father Dave, former founder and winemaker at Torbreck agreed saying “the final quality will still depend heavily on the skills of the resident winemaker and the site of the vineyard. There are a lot of very old vineyards that make average wine because they aren’t grown in the right place or treated properly.”

Dave would know as he made his name seeking out the hidden vineyards of the Barossa Valley and creating, in the words of Robert Parker: “some of the best wines in the world”. So why are some of the oldest vines here in South Australia close to Adelaide?

“The vines in France would have been replanted after phylloxera (a sap-sucking insect related to aphids which feeds on vine roots and leaves) arrived about 100 years ago and most vines are now protected by grafting

on top of phylloxera resistant American rootstocks,” Dave said. The Barossa is phylloxera free and therefore the vineyards date back to the second decade of settlement in the 1840’s.

Consequently our Barossa vines aren’t grafted, so they will live longer than grafted vines planted in phylloxera areas, as eventually the graft will give, the vine will die and need to be replaced.”

So, Australians are grateful to the original settlers who brought these vines with them and thankful that phylloxera has not progressed into the state of South Australia.

However, this is all academic if the wine from these old boys does not taste better. “Old vines tend to be less affected by severe weather conditions. It’s probably due to their deep roots and adaption to this climate over a long period of time. Generally old vines retain their acidity better, show higher concentration of flavours and tannin. Plus there is a bit of mystique which is easy to taste but hard to describe.”

Dave added with a smile.

Recommended old vine wines to try from companies where both Dave Powell and myself have worked. Both are available from Annam Gourmet Market, 16-18 Hai Ba Trung Street, District 1, Tel: (28) 38229332.

2012 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz, VND745,000. Delicious Old Vine Shiraz made with a traditional basket press. Fullbodied, rich, spicy full of fruit.

2015 Yalumba Pewsey Vale Eden Valley Riesling, VND775,000. Delicious crisp dry, mouth-filling Riesling with citric and stone fruit flavours. Elegant.

Rupert Dean worked in the wine industry and now lives in HCMC working for Regency International. He can be contacted on rupertdean@regencyint.com.

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7 Thao Dien, D2 // Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise. 

BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrellashaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room.

With revamped menu which includes a mix of family-style meals with Mexican featuring predomominately, followed by Italian and Asian fare.  Bia Craft 90 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2588 A cozy bar serving beer-­themed snacks and some of the best craft ales in Saigon. Constantly buzzing with the friendly chat of local expats in the area.

District Federal 84 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Serving only the very best Mexican (not Tex-Mex) food, Mexican chef Luis Reyes creates the menu. Luis’s menu focuses on homemade and authentic Mexican food.

Ebisu 66 Song Hanh, D2 028 6276 8787 The city’s soba noodle specialists bring authenticity and professional service to the Japanese table. Sushi and grilled skewers are also specialities, DTwo Sports Bar 55­57 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3519 4138 Stylish non­smoking sports bar offering all the latest action on a choice of widescreen TVs. Perfect for sports fans who are looking for a cold pint and big portions from a tempting pub grub menu. Mad House 6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien, D2 Founded in 2015 by a couple of dedicated foodies from Denmark, Mad House has become known for its northern European style of honest, unpretentious comfort food as much as its homely yet stylish environment.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches.

Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  Thai Street 26 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 08 6654 9525 Authentic Thai menu in a casual garden setting.

Quan Bui Garden 55 Ngo Quang Huy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3898 9088 From the team behind Quan Bui, this D2 spot has all the chic design and

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

DISTRICT 3 Boulevard Grill Bar Leman Luxury Apartments, 22 Truong Dinh, D3 A wallet-friendly bistro sending out fine dining-style steaks, salads, pastas and other grilled items. Don’t miss the set lunches.

Cha Ca La Vong 3 Ho Xuan Huong, D3 Tel: 028 3930 5674 36 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 028 3915 3343 Two Ho Chi Miny City outposts of the legendary Hanoi original serve only one dish: the eponymous and delicious cha ca la vong, fish pan-fried at the table with turmeric and dill and served with cold noodles and peanuts.

Com Nieu 19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 028 3932 6288 The house specialty, com nieu (smashed rice), comes with a shattered-crockery and flying-rice show at this well-known restaurant, prominently featured in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour. An extensive and tasty selection of southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the menu.

Jardin Des Sens 251 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Tel: 0122 585 9069 Mediterranean-influenced fine dining in a historic French colonial villa, Jardin Des Sens is the latest project of twin French chefs Jacques and Laurent Pourcel.

DISTRICT 5 Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 028 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

DISTRICT 7 Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 028 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

Speakeasy S35-1 Le Van Thiem, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 093 722 11 03 The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 028 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends. 

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Q.itchen Factory 2nd floor, Lot DVTM-9, Road 7, Tan Thuan Export Processing Zone, D7.

Viva Tapas Bar & Grill 90 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 028 54 106 721 Tucked away on a quiet street in Phu My Hung, Viva is colourful and welcoming and has both indoor and outdoor seating. Tapas make up the bulk of the menu and cover traditional dishes as well as a few house specialties that put a quirky twist on things. 

nightlife See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Saigon Saigon Bar Rooftop via 9th floor, Caravelle Saigon Hotel, 19 - 23 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 028 3823 4999 A great iconic bar to watch the sun go down over the city skyline, or dance the night away. The panoramic views of the city are spectacular, particularly in the evenings. Live entertainment nightly with Cuban band Q’vans except Tuesday from 9:00pm till late.

BAKERIES Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery.

Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked goods from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 028 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

at home DELIVERY

Patty’s Kitchen www.facebook.com/ homecookhealthyfood Home-made meals for pick-up or delivery. www.vietnammm.com A free website that allows users to order delivery from dozens of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City.

Simply provide your address and phone number and pay the delivery driver in cash when he arrives

GROCERIES

Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 028 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2630 Takashimaya Saigon Center 65 Le Loi, D1 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products. Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor.

Cosy café serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches.

Kim Hai Butchery 46 Nguyen Thai Binh, D1 Tel: 028 3914 4376 C This town is definitely big enough for two Australian butchers. Reasonably M priced imported beef, fish, chicken, and more at this original neighbourhood Y fixture.

CM MY Meatworks Butchery 1, Street 2, Thao Dien, D2 CY Tel: 028 3744 2565 Imported meats from Australia, including top-quality beef and lamb, CMY and locally sourced pork and chicken..

K Proudly Australian owned and managed.

MegaMart An Phu, D2 Tel: 028 3740 6677 Tan Thoi Hiep, D12 Tel: 028 3717 2979 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares-basically everything.

Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 arlene@organikvn.com www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported allnatural products.

Phuong Ha 58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 028 3914 1318 A mini-supermarket that sells an extensive assortment of imported packaged food, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and fine wines.

Veggy’s 14 Pham Hong Thai, D1 Tel: 028 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Popular expat market with a walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

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listings By Phil Kelly

FITNESS POSTERIOR PERFORMANCE What lies behind you are some of the most important muscles in your body. Strong glutes are the key to improving posture, enhancing balance, boosting athletic performance, and looking fantastic.

In fact the entire posterior chain musculature is very important to strengthen in the modern era of increased sitting and inactivity.

Research shows that a strong posterior chain (the muscles on the back of your body that cause extension) enriches overall athletic performance and ease of movement, whether you’re walking the stairs, lifting weights, swinging a golf club, or simply getting out of a chair.

Posterior chain exercises, in particular glute strengthening exercises, reduce the risk of injury.

Americans spend a staggering $50 billion each year on lower back pain.

It’s the most common cause of job-related disability and a major reason for missed work, according to the National Institute of Health.

In other words glute and back training is now widely recognized as one of the most important things you can do to move well and stay injury-free.

Strong glutes encourage hip movement over spinal movement, protecting the back. The technique required during these exercises teaches correct movement patterns promoting muscle unity that also greatly protects the back from injury.

Most of us need to work on the posterior chain. It’s an often forgotten set of muscles. The glutes are the biggest muscles in the human body and due to our mainly sedentary lifestyles have stopped working all together in a large percentage of people due to lack of use.

Dr Eric Goodman, of Foundation Training states “many people are unable to fire their glutes; this “glute amnesia” occurs because the hip joint is externally rotated away from the femur, causing the glutes to sit in a shortened position. Over time they stop functioning as powerhouses and start functioning as cushions.”

If you do workout you might think: I do squats — isn’t that enough? The answer is NO; variety is essential. The glutes create a number of different movements at the hip and thus must be trained a number of different ways.

A good workout plan will include exercises incorporating different movement patterns. Patterns such as hinging, extension, unilateral & bilateral as well as rotational. These motions also need to be performed in different planes of movement with a focus on the fontal plane, as this is the most neglected and common cause of injury.

Below are my three go-to exercises that will build strong, functional and great looking glutes. Done properly these will also protect your back from injury and boost your performance in all aspects of movement: Bulgarian Split Squats Hold a dumbbell in each hand and stand in front of a bench.

Place the back leg up onto the bench. Hinge at the hip, sit back and lower your back knee toward the floor. The torso will lean slightly forward keeping the shoulder over the front foot. Press through your front heel to stand up.

Single Leg Romanian Deadlifts Hold a dumbbell in each hand and stand tall on one foot with one foot slightly behind you. Hinge forward at the hips, lifting the back leg up behind you until you feel a stretch in the hamstring of the standing leg or until you start to lose postural position. Extend the hips to return to standing.

Barbell Hip Thrust Sit with shoulders and head supported on the bench or stability ball. Rest a barbell over the front of the pelvis in the fold of the hip joint. Draw the abdominals in and posteriorally tilt the pelvis to engage glutes. Pushing with glutes lift your hips until your body forms a bridge. Do not flare the ribs, squeeze the glutes to ensure the lift is performed through the hips.

Phil Kelly is a health practitioner and expert in body transformation. His services are available at Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com).

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sports & leisure

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF DANCING

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 028 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Salsa package for single persons and couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm). Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA

AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment.

Available for party hire - BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 028 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge work-out area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 028 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY

Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 0263 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees. Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009-yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 0251 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards.

The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city.

The Bluffs Ho Tram Strip Phuoc Thuan, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria - Vung Tau Tel: 064 378 8666 http://thebluffshotram.com/ info@thebluffshotram.com Designed by Greg Norman, The Bluffs is a 50-hectare, 18 hole links-style golf course associated with The Grand Ho Tram Strip integrated resort, about a 2.5 hour drive from Ho Chi Minh City.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0274 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

LEISURE

Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals.

Also hosts events and birthdays.

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health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

American Chiropractic Clinic 161 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 028 3939 3930 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treats back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 028 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Care 1 Executive Health Care Center in the Manor is the main facility for health screening and wellness check-ups.

To fit into your busy life, Care 1 offers one stop service - modern, comprehensive healthcare services and state-of the-art facilities all in one place.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons.

DENTAL

Accadent 39 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 6267 6666 A clinic that brings leading German dentistry to Vietnam. All dentists here were trained in Germany and all equipment comes from Germany to ensure proper hygiene and quality.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 24 Thao Dien, D2 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 028 3822 6222 With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. With the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

Minh Khai Dental Clinic 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 028 3925 3399 nhakhoaminhkhai@gmail.com www.nhakhoaminhkhai.com No.1 Dental Clinic 51 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 028 3929 0909 nhakhoano1@gmail.com www.nhakhoano1.com Located in District 10, No.1 offers general dentistry services include fillings, checkups and teeth cleaning and specialist

dental care that includes dental implants, orthodontics (braces), endodontics (root canals), prosthodontics (false teeth, including dentures, crowns and veneers) and cosmetic dentistry, such as laser teeth whitening.

West Coast Dental Clinic 27 Nguyen Ba Lan, D2 Tel: 028 3519 1777 www.westcoastinternational.com

MEDICAL Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 028 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynecology, pediatrics, ophthalmology, psychology, psychiatry, osteopathy, acupuncture and psychomotor therapy.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3822 7848 95 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2000 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

HANH PHUC, International Hospital Binh Duong boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 3636068 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a comprehensive range of quality healthcare services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer, Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving from HCMC. HANH PHUC International Hospital Clinic 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 028 3925 9797 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive range of services specializing in Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics, Immunization, General Practice and Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm.

Raffles Medical Clinic 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 028 3845 4218 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 028 3910 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

Open with doctors on call 24/7.

SKINCARE

The Body Shop 216 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 028 3820 5845 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 028 3823 3683119 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 028 3923 2918 Parkson CT Plaza, Tan Binh Tel: 028 6297 2095 Parkson Cantavil, D2 Tel: 028 6296 0265 Diamond Plaza, D1 Tel: 028 3822 1887 check out more outlet via website www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

The Face Shop 81 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 028 3829 3058 Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 028 3507 0800 Vincom 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 028 3936 9308 Parkson Cantavil, D2 Tel: 028 37407180 check out more outlet via website www.thefaceshop.com.vn Stamford Skin Centre 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1

Tel: 028 3925 1990 www.stamfordskin.com The Stamford Skin Centre has grown to include qualified specialists who treat general diseases of the skin such as acne, eczema and other forms of dermatitis, rosacea, psoriasis, skin cancers.

Offering treatments for simple blemishes and outbreaks on a person’s face, a long standing melasma, acne scars, wrinkles or sagging skin that if treated, removed, or substantially improved.

listings

family ACTIVITIES

Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D 2 Tel: 028 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio.

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Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes for kids from age six.

BABY EQUIPMENT

By Kirsten Pontius

EDUCATION HUB TRANSITIONING KIDS This time of year tends to involve a lot of discussion about moving and transition.

As families at international schools are often living outside their passport country, or creating friendships with those that are only temporarily in the country, it can be a time of excitement and anticipation, as well as nerves and sadness.

American sociologist David C. Pollock has produced an abundance of research about this lifestyle in relation to children, who he refers to as Third Culture Kids. When you learn that it’s time for a move, Pollock’s research provides insight on how to help children transition. His work, along with others who have gone through the experiences involved, help us to understand and navigate a time of transition.

Here is a simplified explanation of Pollock’s stages of transition for a child, infused with information from other experienced authors who weigh in on this topic.

The Leaving Stage Upon discovering you are leaving the country, you enter into what Pollock calls the Leaving Stage.

To deny feelings of sadness, children may devalue the things they once loved in the country, trying to avoid the grief that accompanies leaving behind friends, a home and activities they will surely miss. This can include some detachment from friends, school, and activities. There is often a level of denial too as our minds try to soften

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the blow. Feelings of rejection are common, as your child will increasingly be left out of plans organised for after their post-departure.

The Translation Stage This stage might as well be called The Chaos Stage.

In transitioning out of the country, regular routines, activities and norms begin to shift as bags are packed, schedules are adjusted and travel ensues. Unfortunately, the establishment of new routines and norms can take a while to establish, leaving children feeling unsettled.

As students try to adjust to new people, cultures and environments, self-esteem can suffer as their confidence in what they once knew is shattered by new ways of doing things, breaking into new social groups, and adjusting to different routines.

The Entering Stage Eventually, children begin establishing new patterns and start to make sense of the culture in their new home.

Thus, they “enter” into this new life.

The Reinvolvment Stage The process ends with the acceptance of the new place, new roles and the new community; the stage induces feelings of belonging, intimacy and security.

Further reading: Pollock, D. C., & Van Reken, R. E. (2009).

Third culture kids: growing up among worlds. Rev. Ed. London: Nicholas Brealey.

Maman Bebe L2-11, Vincom Quang Trung, Go Vap 3rd Flr Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza, D5 L2-11K, Vincom 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 52-54 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 191 Hoang Van Thu, Phu Nhuan S11-1 Sky Garden 1, Phu My Hung, D7 The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

CLOTHES

Albetta 32 Tran Ngoc Dien D2 58 Nguyen Duc Canh, Tan Phong, D7 Albetta is a British family owned company, with a factory in Saigon, which produces beautifully designed and handcrafted clothes, gifts, shoes and accessories for children. Their new Lucky Luca collection are available in Albetta shops now.

DLS Paris Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Little Anh – Em 41 Thao Dien, D2 A French brand made in Vietnam offering a wide selection of colourful, simply packaged and thoughtfully collated “sets” of garments for girls and boys from newborn to 10 years old. Lifestyle pieces also available include sleeping bags, bedroom accessories and bags.

Ninh Khuong 42 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 71B Dong Khoi, D1 22 Nguyen Trai, D1 344 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 343 Hai Ba Trung, D1 27 Le Van Sy, Phu Nhuan www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 028 5431 33/34/35/36 office@theabcis.com www.theabcis.com Judged “an outstanding school” by British Government Inspectors, the ABCIS is accredited by CIE, AQA and Education Development Trust and members of COBIS and FOBISIA. Serving 2-18 year olds in a caring environment, it delivers a globally valued curriculum based on best UK practice. This culminates in

the award of IGCSEs and A levels from the Cambridge and AQA examination boards. These “gold standard certifications” afford entrance to the very best universities around the world.

American International School 220 Nguyen Van Tao, Nha Be, HCMC Tel: 028 3780 0909 www.ais.edu.vn info@ais.edu.vn Established since 2006, American International School is a private school serving students from Preschool through grade 12. The school offers innovative American curriculum with true Vietnamese heritage. All students are well prepared for academic success appropriate to their needs and aspirations in the US and around the world.

The Australian International School Xi Campus (Kindergarten) 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 028 35192727 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Primary School) 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Middle & Senior School) 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) An Phu ward, D2 Tel: 028 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with three class campuses in District 2, HCMC, offering an international education from Kindergarten to Senior School with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programe (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

British International School www.bisvietnam.com Early Years and Infant Campus 101, Thao Dien Street, District 2.

Junior Campus 225 Nguyen Van Huong Street, District 2.

Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2335 BIS HCMC is the largest international school in Vietnam and operates from three purpose-built campuses in the residential area of District 2, catering for students from pre-school to 18 years of age. The school provides a broad, balanced and differentiated curriculum to within the framework of the National Curriculum for England. Staffed primarily by British qualified teachers with a minimum of 3 years’ experience. Students are prepared for both IGCSE & the IB Diploma programmes. BIS is a member of FOBISIA & fully accredited by the Council of International Schools.

EUROPEAN International School 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien.Tel: 028 7300 7257 www.eishcmc.com jura.cullen@cantab.net The EUROPEAN International School Ho Chi Minh City (EIS) offers an international education from Early Years through Primary and Secondary School. EIS is committed to educating students to become creative critical thinkers and problem solvers. In small student centred classes, students are immersed in a multicultural learning environment which values multilingualism. The language of instruction throughout the School is English; the language program includes Spanish, German, French and Vietnamese.

By Paul McLardie

PERSONAL FINANCE CRYPTO CURRENCIES A while ago I had a conversation with a friend about so called crypto currencies, Bitcoin, Ethereum and the ilk.

We couldn’t agree on whether they were worthwhile to hold in a portfolio or not, let alone on what they should be called.

To me, they should be classed as an asset similar to gold or precious metals and not a currency. Even to call them a currency is a misnomer.

They are an asset that has its own risk mechanisms and measurements but they aren’t yet a currency with the common intrinsic values, ratios, trading mechanisms, risk profiles and matrixes that true currencies have.

This can be broken down into three areas.

Are they a measure of exchange?

No they aren’t. Not enough places accept them as a currency and the costs of doing so for smaller items is prohibitive. Imagine attempting to buy a Mars bar.

The merchant may accept the payment via crypto, but the trade would cost too much and the time scales would take too long.

Is it a store of value?

Yes they are, however the price fluctuates. Like any direct asset, once you buy it, it stores your wealth, just like holding gold does.

Are they a measure of value?

At present, this is a no. There are too few transactions carried out for goods or services in a market situation for them to maintain a measure of value.

Heard about Bitcoin inflation?

No, me neither.

The blockchain technology is a different matter though.

This technology is here to stay and it will keep on growing so eventually, crypto currencies will only be a small part of it.

At the moment, the value of cryptos are purely based on what someone will pay for them.

That’s the reasons why you shouldn’t look at cryptos as a currency. They need to be treated differently. If you do want to invest in them, you need to look and treat them differently as an asset, not as you would another true currency.

By their very nature you cannot use the same exchange mechanisms as you would with US dollars or Yen. We are a long way off being able to take a forward option to buy or sell them in an open market. Once this happens yes, call them a currency.

Advice for investing in them.

Read, read and read some more and then treat them like walking into a bookmakers.

Only gamble with the money you can afford to lose.

International School HCMC Primary Campus 28 Vo Truong Toan St.,D2 Secondary Campus 01 Xuan Thuy St., D2 +84 (28) 3898 9100 admissions@ishcmc.edu.vn www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures. With two campus; Primary and Secondary.

The International School HCMC American Academy 26 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 028 3898 9098 www.aavn.edu.vn The International School Ho Chi Minh City - American Academy is a worldclass middle and high school for children aged 11 to 18 years old. Offering a comprehensive academic program built upon the principles and standards of the American education system..

International School Saigon Pearl 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District Tel: 028 2222 7788/99 www.issp.edu.vn The International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is a world-class Elementary School for children aged 18 months to 11 years old offering a full American school curriculum in Vietnam. With a custom built primary campus ISSP’s ethos is centered on building caring relationships with each child and family.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 028 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 028 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn An International British school providing inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. The school has made a conscious decision to limit numbers and keep class sizes small to ensure each student is offered an education tailored to meet his or her individual learning needs. It is a family school providing a stimulating and secure learning environment with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 028 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management. Contact him at Paul.mclardie@t-wm.com.

SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 028 3744 6076

www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and six years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 028 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age three to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

ENTERTAINMENT

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones entertained for hours with an impressive array of video games.

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 028 3827 7008 The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to five years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in innovative parent-child programmes.

PARTIES

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other costumes.

Bibi Clown - Chu he Bibi Tel: 0933 131 012 bibiclown.blogspot.com Does exactly as his name suggests.

Great service has earned him a reputation for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons and games in both English and Vietnamese.

The Balloon Man Mr Hoat 0903 837 326 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. He will come to your place for decoration but English not as good. Also provides helium balloons.

listings

living CAMERAS

Kiet Camera Ground Floor, Lucky Plaza, 69 Dong Khoi, D1 Very reliable shop with large range of kit and very good prices. If he hasn’t got in stock, Kiet can quickly find it.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 53

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

By Gary Woollacott

PEOPLE MATTER YOUR WINDOW OF PRESENCE I’m pleased if you’ve been attracted to my headline and perhaps reading my column for the first time. (Regular readers will know that my topics are all over the place!) A few weeks ago I had no idea what a “window of presence” was, or is. And then I went on a management training course and it was one of the items they covered. Put simply, it’s being present in the moment to deal with whatever is at hand, or mindfulness, if you prefer.

I’m going to focus here on the work-related aspects although the same principles apply at home or with friends.

Most of us aren’t very good at staying within the window of presence much of the time.

We get angry and frustrated, which can lead to losing our tempers and shouting at people – above the window of presence. The other possibility is that we become withdrawn and quiet, shrinking away from people – below the window of presence. My colleagues will know that I have a tendency to drop below; I would choose to be quiet rather than shouting at people and upsetting them. But neither response is helpful, the objective is to stay within the window of presence and deal with the matters at hand.

So how do we train ourselves to stay in that window as much as possible?

There are many ways, some of them touchy-feely, and some that are easy and practical.

You could tell the other person

that you need a few minutes before you can respond. Did you know that science tells us it takes 28 minutes to recover after a significant shock to our systems? That’s quite some time in a business environment.

Find a quiet space, take some deep breaths and compose yourself before going back to the task.

Or leave the office, walk around the block, thinking happier thoughts – look at the beauty of nature – appreciate something that you love and then go back. Smoke a cigarette and/or have a coffee if that’s your thing. Anything to take you away from that immediate situation, to change your point of view, restoring order so that when you go back you are in a strong mental place – within your window of presence – and you can handle the issue.

Whatever you decide to do, it takes practice. It helps me to remember that there is a window of presence and to recognise when I’m in danger of slipping out of it. That mere fact helps me to keep myself more grounded and, if you like, in the moment. Mindful. There, that word again. Try it yourself and see how you get on. There is plenty on the Internet to help, or you could just drop me a note and we can have a coffee and chat about it.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is an executive search consultant who works for Horton International in Vietnam, Thailand and Laos. He can be reached at +84 8 3910 7682 or via woollacott@hortoninternational.com.

54 AsiaLIFE HCMC

COMPUTERS

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 028 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

Thuan My 32 Cach Mang Thang 8, D3 2 Thao Dien, D2 Apple Authorized reseller and Premium Service Provider of Apple computers and products. Excellent service and Englishspeaking staff.

ELECTRONICS

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 028 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to refrigerators.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE AustinHome 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 028 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 028 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

CO-WORKING SPACES

Dreamplex Level 9 – 10 – 11 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, District 1 Tel: 028 7306-6880 dreamplex.co A coworking space for startup entrepreneurs, creatives, consultants and investors to work collaboratively or privately. There’s a meeting hub to

connect enterprises with domestic and global investors, as well as assist with recruitment.

The Hive Saigon 94 Xuan Thuy, District 2 Tel: 028 3620 3481 thehive.com.vn Open spaces and private offices in a three-storey building for creatives and entrepreneurs. Part of a network of coworking spaces throughout Asia.

PepperHouse 19 Hoang Sa, District 1 Tel: 028 3910-2028 pepperhouse.asia PepperHouse provides a space to stay and work in Ho Chi Minh City. Bright, open, and the perfect place to hunker down to get some work done and network.

Saigon Coworking 101 Cu Lao, Phu Nhuan District Tel: 0965 100 244 and 0902 740 106 saigoncoworking.com One of the first coworking spaces in Saigon, Saigon Coworking was founded for startups and networking for young foreign entrepreneurs. The space partners with local professionals to help with legal, financial and IT consulting. Has an onsite kitchen and green rooftop garden.

Start Saigon 18bis/14 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 1 Tel: 028 6682-8580 start-saigon.com Start Saigon is a 24/7 co-working space dedicated to information technology start-ups and entrepreneurs. With a rooftop garden, pool, fast optical-fibre internet, and a meeting room, they also host after work parties and barbecues.

Workyos Viettel Complex, Tower A 12th Floor, 285 Cach Mang Thang Tam, District 10 Tel: 028 6288-2882 workyos.com Drop in and work in one of the open spaces, or rent a desk or private office longer-term. Branding consultation available from the experienced staff. Also available are meeting and event rooms, a bar and a “relax” room.

RECRUITMENT

First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 028 3910 2080 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 / Tel: 028 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Horton International 5F, Vitic Building 6B Nguyen Thanh Y Street, D1 Tel 028 3910 7682-3 www.hortoninternational.com Established in HCMC in 2005, Horton International services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. Horton International is one of the world’s leading executive search groups with 50 offices in 30

countries. For more information, contact vietnam@hortoninternational.com.

RELOCATION AGENTS

Unit 2404, 24th Floor Pearl Plaza Office Tower, 561A Dien Bien Phu Street, Ward 25, Binh Thanh District Direct: 84 8 3840 4237 http://www.crownworldwide.com

WAYNE CAPRIOTTI boarding b

Want to avoid making mistakes??

To learn how contact Crown for all your relocations needs. We provide services Internationally, locally and commercially as well as provide storage solutions long and short term.

OBITUARY It’s with sadness that AsiaLIFE confirms our columnist Wayne Capriotti died unexpectedly on August 6 of a suspected heart attack.

Although Wayne only joined the magazine recently, and wrote his pet column for just two issues, Wayne was known personally to the team and was well respected as a writer and an authority on Vietnam’s growing pet industry.

As well as writing regularly for Vietnamese and English language publications, Wayne also ran the only marketing and publishing agency specialising in the emerging pet industry in this country, digi-escape Vietnam.

Through this he launched Me Thu Cung (Passion for Pets in Vietnam), the country’s first ever general pet magazine dedicated to pet ownership and the pet industry. The first printed edition of the magazine was published this year, almost four years to the day since the online version was launched.

Not just a lover of dogs, Wayne also had a passion for all pets including birds, cats

(his favourite) and fish. He was devoted to promoting Vietnamese dog breeds around the world and had participated in government panels to advise on changing laws to offer more protection to pets.

His commitment and dedication to the industry will be a great loss for the pet community as he was a valued source of information for all things pets, frequently offering advice on services and products. Passionate about responsible pet ownership, Wayne was known for speaking his mind and although at times considered an outspoken advocate for pets in Vietnam, his voice was one that did tremendous good.

AsiaLIFE is thankful for the contribution that Wayne made to the magazine through his pet column and was looking forward to publishing more of his work as full articles.

Heartfelt condolences to all Wayne’s friends and family, here in Vietnam and elsewhere around the world, including his home of Canada.

UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations 1st Fl, 214 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 028 3744 7102 MOVING!? www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with ware! housing, handyman, insurance & claim, ! orientation an partner career support services also availble. !"#$%&&'(!)%*#)%&&'(!+),-.)%*#)%&&'/!

0#1.!2#3-(!#4$-(!5%$,#.'/!! !6--7!8,#.%9-!/! :&%))+)9!,#!.-&#$%,-!;#.&7;+7-/! ! !"#$%&$''(")*'+,"-%,'.%*$#/*0'

!!!

<=>=?!@!AB!!A!!CDBB!DEFG!!!!H!!!!8%&-8I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! ! <%)#+?!@!AB!!B!!CDEA!LDEM!!!!H!!!!+)5#I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! www.saigonvan.com

Santa Fe Relocation Services 8th floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 028 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com vietnam@santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around world, Santa Fe offers local & international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration & records management.

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES

Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 028 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

READY TO WEAR unisex L’Usine

151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Retro KID 345/3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 0909 168 350 Featured Street wear imported from Thailand and US as well as local designmen’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of accessories.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 028 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men’s, women’s and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

men

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 028 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

women

ER-Couture Boutique 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 028 3744 2411 www.er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

TAILORS

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 028 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 028 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men. Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy.

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 55

PUBLIC WIFI

B

eing in Europe this summer, I realised how good we have it here in Vietnam when it comes to access to public wifi. At least here in Saigon, it seems that every shop on every corner on every street will give you access to their wifi network.

Although convenient, public wifi networks come with their own security considerations as they are inherently less protected. For instance, most coffee shops or restaurants offer access to their in-house network as an added value for patrons. In order to make these networks accessible to the public, they provide easy access to the internet by disclosing the password publicly on a sign or table, disabling the password altogether, or asking you to sign in with an email address, Facebook account or phone number. It’s unlikely that the establishment itself has an elaborate plot to get you to connect to their wifi network so they can access your device to scan your device for personal data, but more often, it is the other people who are connected to that same public network that may be trying to harvest your data to use it fraudulently. Having said that, there are free wifi providers that do track what you’re doing on their network so they can tailor their marketing accordingly.

Following some of the recommendations below can lessen the chances of being subject to data harvesting while using public networks:

Heed the S

“HTTP” stands for HyperText Transfer Protocol and usually starts every website address (ie: http://www.google. com). “HTTPS” adds an extra layer of security when browsing a site where all communication between the computer and the website is encrypted so that other computers cannot decipher the information that is being uploaded or downloaded between them.

Pay attention to this as it makes it harder for potential snoopers to view your online activity. Browsers like Google Chrome now have a feature in which visiting an “HTTP” site produces a notification telling you that 56 AsiaLIFE HCMC

the site is “not secure”.

Read the Fine Print

Access to some public networks (such as at airports, for example), come with a pop-up disclaimer before you agree to connect. If you care to find out what data these providers are collecting during your session, it’s worth taking a gander at these terms and conditions before clicking on “agree”. Sometimes, free networks aren’t actually free as you are unknowingly giving up your privacy by simply connecting.

Disabling File Sharing is Caring

Advances in operating system software have made it much easier for us to share data through wireless protocols. If you are truly concerned about keeping sensitive data on your computer secure, it’s worth toggling file sharing settings in order to disparage hacking attempts whilst connected to networks with questionable security.

• For those with Macs: System Preferences > Sharing - proceed to deselect everything on the list. Then, open a Finder window, click on AirDrop in the sidebar and select “Allow me to be discovered by: No One” in the drop down menu. You can also disable AirDrop on an iOS device from the Settings app.

• If you are running Windows: navigate to the Network and Sharing Center, click on Change advanced sharing settings, and then Turn off file and printer sharing.

This will effectively disable incoming connections that are attempting to pull data wirelessly from your PC.

VPN

Configuring a virtual private network from your device has become much easier than it was just a few years ago. There are many providers that now have apps or software clients that make it very simple to use their service from a mobile device or computer. When connected, transferred data is encrypted between your device and a secure server so you can stay browse anonymously, making it much harder

for others connected to the network to monitor your online activity and acquire your personal information. This is the most effective practice to remain secure online.

However, choosing a legitimate and stable VPN is not as straightforward.

Certainly, paid services are more likely to provide better protection, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t any reliable free ones available. Some free services give you a limited amount of monthly data usage under their VPN before having to pay or give you a trial before you decide to purchase. My recommendations are: TunnelBear, ExpressVPN and Windscribe.

Although it is true that VPNs tend to slow your online speeds, it’s worth the compromise if you’re serious about security. In addition, for those traveling to China and other such countries that ban a multitude of social media apps, a VPN is a must if you want to stay connected to certain platforms.

Sense and Sensibility

A little bit of sensibility goes a long way.

I know it’s probably common sense, but I’ll mention it again anyway. If you receive pops-ups asking you to install extra software, browser extensions or requesting for all kinds of personal contact information, it’s a good indication that you should get off that free public network you’re on. I know that installing system updates is a tedious and sometimes painful process when it causes glitchiness or lag on your device, but remember that outdated operating systems are also more vulnerable to security exploits.

Lastly, there are now companies that do provide global wifi/internet services. In the recent years companies like SkyRoam and KeepGo have developed paid subscriptions that allow you to access the internet internationally in a vast majority of countries. These services tend to be cheaper than paying for data roaming charges from telecom companies, so it might be of interest to explore these options. iknow.com.vn

street smart

Jess Warren explores Cong Quynh in District 1. Photos by Angeli Castelli.

CONG QUYNH DISTRICT 1

C

ong Quynh is a chaotic and lively street, not only due to the masses of people, bikes, cars and street sellers, but also because of the layout itself. A street of three parts, it is broken up into sections joined together with busy roundabouts. This energetic street has a lot to offer, as you venture down it by foot or bike.

Cong Quynh runs north-west through Pham Ngu Lao ward in District 1. Starting at the north end, where the street backs onto Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, and working your way down until reaching Tran Hung Dao, there is plenty to see.

The street is named after a popular scholar under the Le-Trinh dynasty called Nguyen Quynh. After passing the bachelor level Huong Cong exam, Nguyen was renamed Cong Quynh. Although he never passed the national exam, he became famous for his humour and anecdotes.

Incredibly valued, Cong Quynh had a memorial house built in his home town, as well as a street named after him.

Benh Vien Tu Du Hospital 284 Cong Quynh

The top of the street is home to the Tu Du Hospital, which specialises in reproductive health care. Spread across both sides of the road, the facilities are connected by a walkway bridge that is suspended across the stream of traffic. Outside of the hospital premises, the road is lined with street vendors. Small baskets sit overflowing with fruit and nuts, small stands attached to the front of a bicycle sell banh mi, and fresh juices for all who pass by.

Tien Dat Tra Café 274A Cong Quynh

It’s hard to pass this shop without the smell 58 AsiaLIFE HCMC

of coffee hitting you. Looking in from the outside you can see huge storage jars of coffee and tea. Selling more than 30 types of tea and coffee, you’re able to choose the beans or leaves to suit your taste and sit and enjoy a nice drink in the shop. Alternatively, you can select a product which will be packaged up in front of you, ready to take home. Eager to facilitate your every need, this small café also sells a range of teapots, cups and saucers if you need to add to your collection.

Kim Dong Bookshop 248 Cong Quynh

Heading up a staircase into this children’s book store, you may be asked to stow a large rucksack in the lockers they provide.

This airy and cool shop covers two floors, stocking a range of childrens’ books, stationary, arts and crafts supplies, gifts and toys all on the first floor. Heading upstairs and you’ll find their collection of teen-manga and comics. The Kim Dong Publishing House are the largest producer and publisher of books for Vietnamese children, and publish thousands of books on a range of topics annually.

Thai Binh Market

Located on one of the two roundabouts on Cong Quynh, this busy intersection of traffic is home to a large market. The maze of stalls begins inside, and extends to the outside section of the market, where there are a variety of small stands cooking a range of food. From clothes and accessories to fresh fruit and vegetables, dried fruit and freshly prepared dishes, the Thai Binh Market is more of a locals market, as opposed to the tourist centred market of Ben Thanh.

Walking past this hubbub of activity, the warm smell of cooking is unavoidable, and

you can’t help but be drawn to the barbeque aroma as it wafts over the street.

Ho Chi Minh City Blind Association 185 Cong Quynh

Directly opposite the market sits the Blind Association, which offers a Vietnamese traditional massage. Heading through what appears to be a parking area for mopeds and bikes, you reach a set of stairs on the left-hand side. At the top of the old staircase sits a receptionist for the Blind Association, where you can pay 80,000VND for an hourlong massage in an air-conditioned room.

Mobylette Saigon Hotel 190 Cong Quynh

This small hotel is set slightly off the street, and hard to miss with the wood panelling and gold sign which stand out from the surrounding buildings. A thin and tall building that offers hostel style accommodation with only ten rooms, you can either book a dorm for US$9 or a private room for US$25. Right next to a western-style BBQ restaurant, and metres from the start of Bui Vien Walking Street, Mobylette Saigon Hotel is targeting the backpacker audience, and seem to be doing so successfully as the abundance of mopeds parked outside would suggest.

Zeus Greek Souvlaki 164 Cong Quynh

The mythological Zeus Greek restaurant has a colourful green interior and exterior, offering an extensive range of food.

Moussaka, pastichio, gyros pita, the original Greek kebab and giouvetsi are all on the menu, catering for vegetarians and meateaters alike. Proud of their fresh ingredients, Zeus also produce a range of homemade feta and yogurt products. With a growing

number of tourists and travelers in this area of the city, the range of restaurants and food types on Cong Quynh is evidently catering to their eating preferences.

Beer Plaza 129 Cong Quynh

The Beer Plaza is a curious shop with two levels, offering an extensive range of beers and wine. On close inspection, almost all the beers come from Belgium, and as a customer, you have the option of enjoying a beer in the upstairs seating area, or taking them home to enjoy. More of a beer stock room than pub, this wooden panelled shop is one to visit for beer enthusiasts.

Heading further down the street, and passing the top end of Bui Vien Walking Street, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to see the growing changes that Cong Quynh is undergoing. On one side of the road, the Golden Hill Complex is under construction, a new shopping mall and residential complex. This area of the city is booming due to the growing presence of walk-in customers, most of whom are travelling in the area for a few days. Passing by the second roundabout that connects these three sections of Cong Quynh, the street soon comes to an end as it joins another busy intersection.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 59

hancock in se asia

KICKING OFF 36 HOURS IN SPAIN

W

ell, last month was a weird one.

There I was enjoying a quiet beer and a game of pool when a friend asked me if I fancied going to Spain. I obviously asked when and he said, “tomorrow”. I then asked why and he said to carry some football shirts. Now I know what you’re thinking, same as I was.

I’ve seen Midnight Express and watched Banged Up Abroad. I could hear the rubber gloves being snapped on. However, some minor investigation proved this to be a legitimate business trip.

Osasuna are a professional football team playing in the second tier of the Spanish league. They have recently changed kit manufacturers and the new guys making the shirts are doing so here in Vietnam. The press launch was already arranged and they had a mere 36 hours to get the first nine shirts delivered so that the players could pose for the cameras. The clock was ticking.

Initially I was told it was to be Barcelona,which would have been cool as I love the place, but then the venue changed to Madrid which was even better as I had never been before. Everything was confirmed on Sunday morning at about 8am and my flight was booked for 8.30pm the same day.

A little over 24 hours from waking up on Sunday I was seated in the hotel bar just 60 AsiaLIFE HCMC

off Gran Via, checking out things to do. The delivery had been completed at the airport and I was free to do whatever I wanted.

Madrid blew me away.

I managed to do quite a lot in the three short days that I was there. Madrid has an excellent tour bus system where two routes with buses running every eight minutes overlap at various points in the city. You can just keep jumping on and off as often as you want.

By utilising both routes I managed to see most of the city’s highlights. The personal highlight was the Tour Bernabéu. Being an avid football fan I was not going to miss out on the chance of visiting one of the most iconic grounds in World football. Real Madrid is the world’s most successful club and the tour was super professional and extremely good.

Madrid is a city of wonderful plazas and small streets packed with tapas bars, bars, cafes and restaurants. I loved every minute.

The food was fantastic, the beers were cold and of a good standard and the service was top drawer.

Every drink comes accompanied with a small dish of some sort; olives, chorizo, crisps or even bacon bits. It is a great way of drinking. The city has relatively clean air and is so damned quiet compared to Ho Chi Minh City.

Come evening time, these plazas really

come into their own as thousands of locals congregate with friends and family, enjoy a few beers, eat some great food and chat.

Local food here was simply wonderful.

Even a simple ham sandwich on crusty bread was divine.

It had been three years since I had been in Europe and it really was a welcome change. The idea of a three-day round trip of near 22,000 kilometres might seem crazy to some, but I don’t mind flying and I love new adventures.

The only thing I missed was the bum gun, how do people live without it?

Following a successful 25-year career as a singer/ songwriter/musician, Keith pulled out of the rat race and moved to Southeast Asia in 2008. First living in Thailand, then Cambodia and Ho Chi Minh City since 2013. www.inseasia.com

MANTA SAILING CLUB

R

ecognised as one of the region’s top sailing schools, MANTA Sailing Club operates as a nonprofit organisation committed to addressing marine conservation priorities of pollution, overfishing and climate change and, specifically, finding alternative livelihoods for fishermen in the Mui Ne area of Vietnam.

Founded and run by Julia Shaw, Manta is the outcome of marine conservation projects in the Con Dao archipelago from 2005 to 2008, which lead to a call for help from the Vietnam Olympic Committee to assist with development of the country’s national watersports. From this, Manta developed a circular model designed to take local fishermen

away from fossil fuels and overfishing of endangered habitats and transfer their existing ocean skills to water-sports.

Fishermen participating in the programme are trained in water sports, climate change and water survival skills. They then pass on their knowledge and experience to large groups of students visiting from Ho Chi Minh City through courses aligned with International Baccalaureate core curriculum community service components.

The courses Manta offers are developed in collaboration with international schools in southern Vietnam and follow World Sailing guidelines, modified for local students to provide greater safety using simpler language

in a shorter time. They are engaging and informative and provide students with essential life skills, as well as helping to develop a passion for water sports.

As a committed environmentalist, Julia is active in Vietnam’s clean-up movement and includes environmental modules in her training programmes, as well as organising regular local beach clean-up activities. In addition to water sport skills, the programmes teach children about zero waste zero plastic lifestyles, and the 9Rs - Rethink, Refuse, Reuse, Recover, Repair, Recycle, Redesign, Rot and Revolutionise.

The workshops run by Manta now offer local fisherman a sustainable alternative to the hard life of ocean fishing, and since 2009 over 15 local fishing families have embarked on a new career, and more than 2,000 children have been trained in water sports, some of whom will represent Vietnam in the 2020 Tokyo Olympics.

Manta’s first sailing manager now trains Vietnam’s national sailing team, their second sailing manager is one of the country’s top surfers and their current assistant coach is Vietnam’s top slalom windsurfer. They are now able to pass on their skills to the next generation of Vietnamese water sport enthusiasts.

As Manta continues to expand their work, they plan to run 24 water sports and climate change survival skills workshops each year, especially for children at local schools. At present, it is estimated that only one in ten Vietnamese children are able to swim, so Julia is keen to open up her learn-to-swim programme to local children and ensure they are protected in the marine environment. http://mantasailing.org AsiaLIFE HCMC 61

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Round 2: 1. Cat 2. Dog 3. Frog 4. Crab 5. Fish 6. Mouse/Rat 7. Turtle 8. Cow 9. Polar Bear 10. Tiger.

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