AsiaLIFE HCMC September 2013

LOCAL

LEARNING

Once again ISHCMC

graduates beat the World average and achieve the highest average IB Diploma results in 7 years.

A truly international learning environment with 50 nationalities represented and the only school in Ho Chi Minh City fully accredited to teach all 3 IB programmes for ALL students aged 2 to 18 years.

AsiaLIFE volume 66

www.asialifemagazine.com

22 front

06 News & Events 12 Dispatches

food

Authentic Chinese

16 Q&A With Author Andrew Lam

44 The Loop Healthy European food

18 Photo Essay: The Walled City

45 Cafe de Paris

A walk through Manila's Intramuros

22 Making Education Work

storyboard

28 Take Charge Electric motorbikes take to the streets

Don't let them eat cake!

43 Yu Chu

13 Street Smart: Pasteur

on the cover

42 Sterling's Saigon

Homemade French cuisine

style & design

46 Fashion by Thien Le

back

50 The List

30 From Dreams to Reality

78 Spotlight 80 Street Guide

Bargirl to breadwinner

88 Odd One Out

32 Wrecked and Pillaged

Doing it all — poorly

Underwater archaeology

89 This Country Life

34 Shaping Up

Saigon, 1989

Vietnamese and physical fitness

90 Pub Quiz

36 Diving In Six cool pools

getaways

38 No Guardrails Here A family cycling trip in the wild north

40 After the Diamond Rush Brazil's hidden treasure

44

46

Cover Art Direction Johnny Murphy Photography Fred Wissink

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note from the editor Group director sales and marketing / director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialifemagazine.com Managing editor: Chris Mueller chris@asialifemagazine.com Deputy editor: Lien Hoang lien@asialifemagazine.com Contributing editor: Michael Tatarski michael@asialifemagazine.com Contributing writer: Dana Filek-Gibson

Regional creative director: Johnny Murphy johnny@asialifemagazine.com Photo editor: Fred Wissink fred@asialifemagazine.com Photo intern: Nguyen Nguyen Production manager: Nguyen Kim Hoa nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com Administrative: Nguyen Hanh Trinh trinh.nguyen@asialifehcmc.com

Editorial intern: Ruben Luong

Chris Mueller I was a horrible student. In high school I would spend so much more time trying to figure out how to get out of doing assignments, that it would have been much less effort to actually do the work. I had always enjoyed learning, but at the same time couldn’t stand having points of view shoved down my throat — especially those I didn’t often agree with.

Einstein summed it up best: “The only thing that interferes with my learning is my education.”

By the time university had come around, I had become so disillusioned with the US education system that I nearly didn’t go. Thankfully that changed. While the education in the United States is by no means perfect — most would argue it is horribly flawed — what I now realise is just how much it has shaped how I think today, for better or worse.

It was with this in mind that we decided to look at the education system in Vietnam. Over the past couple of years while reporting articles here, one theme has come up time and again — poor education is to blame for nearly every problem facing the country. This, of course, could really be said everywhere in the world — in the US we still argue over whether global warming exists, while the rest of the world (including countries in Southeast Asia) are trying to figure how to fix it.

But for expats, if we want to understand Vietnam better, then we need to look at what its people are taught. Even knowing simple things such as what pieces of literature are read in schools can give us insight into how young minds here are developed and how they may deal with the many problems afflicting the country.

Unfortunately, this month we also say goodbye to our long-time creative director, Johnny Murphy. He has been with AsiaLIFE for over three years and has consistently been one of our hardest workers. Since coming on board, his sharp designs and attention to detail have clearly separated AsiaLIFE from other rags around the city. It also doesn’t hurt that he can throw down drinks with the best of us. I’m sure I speak for everyone at the magazine when I say he’ll be missed.

Correction: In last month’s article titled ‘The Wine Ambassadar’, we wrote that the Wine Embassy has 130 wines by the glass, when in fact there are 30. They do, however, have 130 wines on the menu. The Wine Embassy is open from Monday to Saturday, not seven days a week.

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For advertising and marketing enquiries please contact: +84 938 298 395 / +84 8 6680 6105 or adsales@asialifehcmc.com

AsiaLIFE Group Group editor / director Cambodia: Mark Bibby Jackson mark@asialife.asia Managing editor Cambodia: Ellie Dyer Art director Cambodia: Steve Tierney Sales Cambodia: Sorn Chantha Chantha@asialife.asia

Director Thailand: Nattamon Limthanachai (Oh) oh@asialife.asia Associate editor Thailand: Yvonne Liang Photo editor Thailand: Nick McGrath Sales Thailand: Piyalai Tandhnan (Ming) Ming@asialife.asia

Next time you're in Cambodia or Thailand check out the latest content from AsiaLIFE or download it at:

www.asialifemagazine.com Find AsiaLIFE articles on

NEWS

EVENTS

BBC Does Vietnam

BBC aired a series of specials on Vietnam from 19-31 Aug on BBC World News and BBC.com. Vietnam Direct topics include: how cities recover from the devastating effects of Agent Orange; the rise of youth culture; workers’ role in Vietnam’s economic rise; and the latest technology helping to keep the country’s favourite mode of transport on the road. A BBC correspondent travelled to Da Nang to document the US-Vietnam project to clean up the world’s highest concentration of Agent Orange. One BBC journalist interviewed Vinamilk’s Mai Kieu Lien, while another visited Con Dao’s former French prison colony. The wide-ranging series also featured a zither player and looked at the local start-up culture.

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Hue Airport Reopens

No more passing through Da Nang. Travellers once again can go to the central city of Hue directly, now that Phu Bai Airport is opening two months ahead of schedule. Closed on 20 March for runway repairs and upgrades, the airport will start receiving planes again on 20 Sept. The renovations cost between VND 500-600 billion and will allow larger aircraft to land in Hue. Now Phu Bai will be able to handle five million passengers a year. This is part of the government’s broader plan to develop tourism in central and coastal Vietnam. In response to the news, national carrier Vietnam Airlines announced it'll resume flights there from Ho Chi Minh City three times daily, and from Hanoi twice daily.

M&A Forum

The International Monetary Fund’s resident representative for Vietnam and Laos gave a presentation in August called, ‘Banking Sector: Mergers and

Acquisitions and Strategic Investment’. At an M&A forum in Ho Chi Minh City, Sanjay Kalra advised buyers to ensure their acquisitions will be the best way to achieve shareholders’ interests. “Be bold and strong in protecting what you have by acquiring only on ‘risk-adjusted’ terms,” Kalra said in his presentation. He also spoke about bank reform and non-performing loans, showing Vietnam has far lower capital and provisions to deal with bad debt, compared with the Philippines, Thailand, Indonesia and Malaysia. Kalra recommended that regulators not burden good banks with the problems of bad ones.

Vote for a Cause

The annual Narrow the Gap Community Event invites all residents, sponsors and nonprofits, this year to focus on disadvantaged children in the city. The event, hosted by the LIN Centre for Community Development from 9am-noon on 15 Sept, will feature fair games, a photo

booth, sand painting and more.

Three groups will present their projects to aid children, with videos and info booths. Guests will vote for their favourite project to help determine how much of its $15,000 NTG will give each group. Plus, attendees will have a say in the focus for next year’s NTG. Go to Linvn.org and click on “Donors”.

New Canadian Diplomat David Devine has been appointed Canada’s ambas-

sador to Vietnam. Devine has specialised in international trade matters and was part of Canada’s team of trade negotiators for both the North American Free Trade Agreement and the Uruguay Round of the World Trade Organisation , according to the Canadian Chamber of Commerce. He has also led Canadian delegations conducting bilateral investment treaties negotiations worldwide. Devine comes to Vietnam after serving as senior trade commissioner

Netball Night

Photo by Fred Wissink

On 9 Sept the Saigon Shooters will host an open night for anyone interested in playing netball. Men and women over the age of 16, and of all abilities, are welcome to try out and learn about the sport for free, ahead of the start of the league’s next season. The event will run from 7pm to 8.30pm at the Australian International School’s sports facility, next to An Phu Supermarket in District 2. For more information contact saigonshootersnetball@gmail.com.

and investment and innovation counsellor at the Canadian Embassy in Tokyo.

Love and Danger

Dangerous Liaisons will be performed by Dragonfly Theatre at Q4 on 11, 12, 18 and 19 Oct. An 18th century France-themed champagne and cocktail party will precede the play, which will be in English with Vietnamese subtitles. Think: corsets, lace and big, big dresses. Dangerous Liaisons tells the tale of two masters of seduction who believe love is a game regardless of the pain it causes those in their path. The beautiful Marquise de Merteuil wants revenge on her ex-lover who is set on marrying a virgin, while the Vicomte de

Valmont sets himself the challenge of seducing a married woman renowned for her high morals. The result is a play full of betrayal, cruelty, decadence and, ultimately, true love. Stay for the post-show live gig.

Tickets go on sale on Keewi. me in September. Stay updated at Facebook.com/dragonflyvietnam.

especially those that address gender equality. Applicants can be individuals or any non-profit group, such as NGOs, schools, libraries, and museums. Last year’s program doled out VND 2.9 billion for 13 projects in southern Vietnam. Applications are due 11 Oct and can be found at Hcmc.vietnam. embassy.gov.au.

Call for Project Ideas

First Global Marathon

The Australian consulate launched its Direct Aid Program to give grants for small-scale development projects to alleviate humanitarian hardship and develop disadvantaged communities. Funding can cover community health, education or small infrastructure projects,

School Makeover

Vietnam’s first-ever international marathon is happening 30 Aug to 2 Sept in Da Nang. Besides the main 26.2-mile event, there’s also a half marathon, and a 5K fun run. Participants can stay all four days to participate in the carbo-load dinner before the race and the mini expo selling

food and souvenirs for local charity. After the running is a beach party and then gala dinner, show and award ceremony with traditional Vietnamese music and dance. Info at Rundanang.com.

Agent Orange Fundraiser Members of Veterans For Peace, Chapter 160, held a fundraiser for the Vietnamese Victims of Agent Orange in Da Nang on 10 Aug to commemorate the 52nd anniversary of the first spraying of Agent Orange by the US Government. Chuck Palazzo, a VFP Chapter 160 member who lives in Da Nang, presented the donations to the Da Nang Association for the Victims Of Agent Orange/Dioxin.

The Cribs to Play Q4 Photo by Steve Gullick

A team of 23 associates from New World Saigon Hotel helped to paint the city’s Tan Thach A School ahead of the new school year. The school now has a repainted cafeteria, three full sets of computers, 200 pieces of bed linen, 100 bath towels and 20 blankets. A further seven sets of computers are being prepared for delivery after the new term begins. The renovation team included five from the hotel’s engineering department, as well as executive committee members. Twenty children have also been welcomed to the hotel this year for skills lessons such as swimming at the Splash Pool, and cooking at The Terrace under the guidance of the executive chef and the executive sous chef.

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Loud Minority has announced that award-winning UK indie stalwarts, The Cribs, will be playing at Q4 in Ho Chi Minh City on 8 Nov. Since the band’s self-titled debut in 2004, the Jarman brothers have gone from cult band to national treasure in their homeland, with two top 10 albums, headline festival slots, an album with Johnny Marr and a number of serious injuries and infections. The Cribs puts everything they have into every single show, enthralling gig-goers worldwide and serving to break down the barrier between fans and artists. Tickets are priced at VND 350,000 (advance) or VND 200,000 (with student ID) and are on sale now at Keewi.me or from Asian Kitchen, 185/22 Pham Ngu Lau Street, D1.

Vietnamese, from Here and Abroad Total donations received locally and around the world were VND 30 million. Palazzo said this would be the first of an annual event.

AusCham Intergalactic Ball

The AusCham Intergalactic Ball this year will take participants to the moon and back and into a galaxy full of UFOs, extraterrestrials and astronauts. On the evening of 21 Sept the event will be held at the InterContinental Asiana Saigon hotel, and will include dinner, drinks and dancing. A live band and DJ will be on hand to keep the crowd moving until the early hours.

There will also be a charity auction with all proceeds going

to a nominated charity (to be announced shortly). Costumes or sparkly/shiny black tie is preferred for the event. Tickets are VND 3,165,000 or VND 31, 650,000 for a table of 10. For more details contact events@ auschamvn.org or 38 32 99 12.

Art Market

VinGallery in District 2 will host an art market on 14 Sept where visitors can buy works and meet artists. Works going under the hammer will include paintings, photographs, handmade jewelry, fashion accessories, sculptures and decorative items. There will also be games for kids including paper craft, jewelry craft, and face painting. VinGallery is located 2 Le Van Mien, D2.

Nearly 250 Viet kieu and local entrepreneurs gathered in Da Lat from 6-9 Aug to share ideas for investment and trade opportunities. The conference helped develop ties between domestic and foreign partners representing 30 countries and territories, nearly 20 business associations of Vietnam from all over the world, and 150 small and medium businesses. Attendees included Deputy Prime Minister Hoang Trung Hai, Deputy Minister of Foreign Affairs Nguyen Thanh Son, and Chairman of Lam Dong Province Vu Xuan Tien. The goal was to develop ways to contribute to the community and the country overall.

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Cambodia News Download AsiaLIFE Cambodia online at: Asialifemagazine.com.

Giant Ibis Nest Discovered

A Giant Ibis nest, complete with two eggs, has been found a few kilometres inland from the Mekong River. It is the first nest belonging to the critically endangered bird to be documented in the Mekong Flooded Forest in northeastern Cambodia. The global population of Cambodia’s national bird is estimated to be around 345 individuals, with about 90 percent found inside the Kingdom. “The discovery of the Giant Ibis nest on the Mekong is extremely significant because it provides hope for the species' survival,” says WWF bird nest project officer Sok Ko. The nest team has made an agreement with local farmer Krech Phoeun and another villager to protect the nest from disturbance until any potential chicks hatch and leave the nest.

ICTP Friends Up with Cambodian NGO

Friends International has joined with the International Coalition of Tourism Partners in a new partnership to boost the NGO’s efforts across Cambodia. The collaboration follows discussions at the recent World Economic Forum in Myanmar between ICTP president Professor Geoffrey Lipman and Friends International director Sebastien Marot. As a first step, ICTP will circulate a bi-monthly Friends International newsletter with advice and good practice for destinations and their stakeholders. The ChildSafe Network is a global child protection system established and powered by Friends International, designed to protect children and youngsters from abuse and influence all tiers 10 asialife HCMC

of society to create positive environments for them. For more information, visit Friendsinternational.org.

Eagles Soar High

The Cambodian Eagles Football club flew to Thailand last month to take part in The Asian Championships, an annual tournament for Asia-based Australian Rules Football teams.

The relatively unknown Japan team was up first, and the Eagles held on to win a low-scoring match 8 to 4. The team won a second game against Thailand 19 to 1, and also dominated Laos 27 to 12. Their streak ended thanks to the Vietnam Swans, who downed the Eagles by two goals. The Eagles will now begin preparations for the Indochine Cup, which they will host in Phnom Penh on 7 Nov.

AWC Gala Dinner

Save the date for the Australian Women's Connection fundraising event on 10 Oct. The AWC's Plate for a Cause gala dinner at Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra will feature five notable Phnom Penh chefs, fine wines, a charity auction, plenty of prizes and dancing. As of press time, the ticket price had not yet been set, but for more information email awcphn@gmail.com or follow the event by liking the Sofitel on Facebook. Enjoy a unique culinary experience, while raising money for Cambodian associations such as Mother's Heart and SCIP. To find out more about the groups, visit: Mothersheart-cambodia.org and Scipquilt.org.

Game, Set and Match The Tennis Federation of Cambodia will embark on its second Davis Cup bid in the

United Arab Emirates on 8 Sep. The Cambodia squad surprised the tennis community last year by finishing the Asia/Oceania Group IV draw undefeated — triumphing over more developed tennis nations like Singapore, Myanmar, Jordan and Qatar.

The performance resulted in a promotion to Group III, where they will face teams from Vietnam, Malaysia, Iran, Oman, Pacific Oceania, Hong Kong and the UAE. TFC’s secretary general, Tep Rithivit, will lead the squad to Dubai as the non-playing captain, with Bun Kenny, Pannhara Mam, Phalkun Mam, and Long Samneang making their mark on court. The players will be joined by head coach Braen Aneiros, national team coach Peov Chea, head of development Christina Ingmire and supporters hoping to cheer the players on to victory.

In addition to sponsorship from NagaWorld, Jean Benoit Lasselin, the owner of luxury brand colorblind, will once again furnish the uniforms for the delegation.

Google Maps Arrives

Cambodia will be showcased to the world at the touch of a button after Google revealed plans to capture both the capital and Angkor Wat on camera for its Street View scheme. Under the plans, Google cars kitted out with 360-degree panoramic cameras will hit Phnom Penh and Angkor Archaeological Park before moving on to the rest of the country. It is believed the move will help boost tourism in the country while showcasing Cambodian culture to the rest of the world. “After seeing the images, they will dream about a real visit,” says Pak Sokhom, under-secretary of state for the Ministry of Tourism.

Angkor Wat Bike4Kids

Budding cyclists are being invited to sign up for the annual Angkor Wat Bike4Kids event. Now in its eighth year, the fundraiser encourages participants to cycle through the beautiful temple complex of Angkor Wat to help raise funds for local charities that support vulnerable children and victims of sex trafficking. This year’s event, presented by Village Focus International and Terre des Hommes – Netherlands, takes place on 30 Nov. This year’s net proceeds will support the Cambodian Center for the Protection of Children’s Rights, The Cambodian Women’s Crisis Center, Action Pour les Enfants, Il Nodo’s My Own Hands Social Design project and Il Nodo’s Helping Children Living with Parents in Prison project. To sign up for more information, visit Bike4kids.org.

All Abuzz

A new watering hole, the Hive café-bar, officially opened in Siem Reap on 10 Aug. “Our set up is designed in a way that makes the transition from coffee shop during the day to cocktail bar at night very easy,” says co-owner Clayton Jedam.

“We have people working here all day, then closing their laptops and ordering a cocktail.” The menu reflects the concept, with café-style food and pizza served up at the stylish location set behind hotel Riviera. Jedam explains that the name “reflects the way we want the cafe to feel — a hive of activity, but also homely.

In turn, the design and the colours give it a bee-hive feel.”

For more information, visit The Hive Siem Reap Facebook page.

dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

A Killer Show For a clean-cut Mormon and father, Brandon Flowers still knows how to rock. The frontman of The Killers hasn’t been shy about donning feathers or spacesuits while performing songs about disappointment and delusion, or prostitutes and neon tigers. With confusing and catchy tracks, The Killers helped revive the American rock scene after a 1990s in the doldrums. Maybe they can do something similar for Asia when they come this month. Catch them in Singapore on 21 Sept, Malaysia the next day, or the Philippines on 26 Sept. Expect a high-octane concert with a white guy not afraid to dance, against a projector screen of desert scenes and unabashedly cheesy hearts. Maybe Flowers will sing about “the rainfall on the trails of old Saigon”. Mtvasia.com/gigguide.

By Foot or By Bike Khiri Travel has seven walking and cycling trips in Southeast Asia. The Phnom Penh walking tour lets guests sample street stall noodles, sweetmeats and delicacies like deep-fried spiders. The trip ends in a brewery to calm the nerves. The Phuket Old Town walking tour brings alive the Chinese clan heritage of the former tin mining island, with Sino-Portuguese architectural heritage and mansions of old tin mining barons. Or take a bike ride to see the Plain of Jars in Laos. Other tours go to Yangon, Chiang Mai, Bagan and Ben Tre. The company, which emphasises participatory, responsible travel, can be reached at enquiries@khiri.com.

Discounting Asia Radisson Blu is offering 30 percent off a selection of its Carlson Rezidor hotels across Asia Pacific. You can try the Chongqing Shapingba hotel in China, adjacent to the Ronghui Hot Springs at the base of Gele Mountain. Besides modern rooms, the site has a fully equipped spa and hot springs centre, four on-site restaurants and meeting room space for up to 2,000 people. Or check out the 1800s sandstone facade of the Radisson Blu Plaza Hotel Sydney. Once home to the Fairfax newspaper empire and the Bank of New South Wales, the boutique-style property sits near Sydney Opera House and major shopping precincts. For the promotion, book the Hot Deals by 20 Sept and stay at least two consecutive nights by 30 Dec. Radissonblu.com/hotdeals-asia.

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Dana Filek-Gibson searches for new surprises on one of Ho Chi Minh City’s most well-known streets. Photos by Ruben Luong.

The beginning and the end of Pasteur form a circle. In geographical terms, of course, the street is stick-straight, charging northwest from the banks of the Saigon River all the way to District 3. Traffic runs in the same direction and moves as most one-ways in town do: hurried, efficient and not unlike a school of fish swimming upstream.

But travel this tree-lined street on foot and you'll realise that no matter which direction you take, it ends in the same way it begins. In a manner of speaking.

Miniature cafes and glitzy ao dai shops jockey for space on the northern end. Going against traffic a couple blocks later, aging storefronts give way to chic, modern cafes and Europeaninspired design firms. Then Pasteur opens up onto 30-4 Park and all hell breaks loose — a riotous tangle of traffic exploding across the wide downtown boulevards. Students chat over coffee and banh trang tron in the shadow of the Reunification Palace. Beside the Cathedral, young brides-to-be clutch their trains, asialife HCMC 13

slowly wilting in the heat.

And from there, the sky's the limit. Pasteur's extravagance escalates, the looming tower of Saigon Centre watching over a steady trickle of upscale shops.

Then something funny happens: amid trendy boutiques and lavish street-side cafes, a patchwork of rice stalls and coffee stands, street vendors and local tap hoa begin to work their way back into the fabric of the street.

At once sleepy and hectic, treelined and cramped with shops, Pasteur runs the spectrum from lively, jam-packed Saigon street to sleek, contemporary metropolitan avenue and back.

204 Pasteur Bookshop (Nha Sach 204 Pasteur) 125B Pasteur Hemmed in by the Phan Dinh Phung sports centre on one corner and a mammoth ILA building on the other, the exterior of this tiny bookshop is somewhat deceptive. In addition to EFL textbooks and Vietnameselanguage novels, 204 Pasteur keeps an impressive collection of English- and French-language magazines, including Time, Elle, Marie Claire, National Geographic, Cosmopolitan and Conde Nast Traveller. Better yet, all of these publications arrive on a timely basis, with most weekly magazines coming into the store only a few days after their international release. A copy of Time will run you about VND 10,000 while larger, glossier magazines are slightly more expensive.

Take care to note the shop's address, however, as it does not coincide with its name.

Alexa Cafe 202 Pasteur Happening upon Alexa Cafe from the street, you’ll find a couple things likely to catch your eye. The terrace, for one, 14 asialife HCMC

is an oasis of open space amid the cramped storefronts of the downtown area. Add to this a chic black-and-white dĂŠcor and the large sign out front and there is little chance you'll miss the place. This elegant cafe serves up the usual array of beverages, from Vietnamese and European coffee to smoothies, fruit juices and beer, as well as Vietnamese breakfast in the mornings, all at reasonable prices. There is also an interior courtyard for those looking to escape the street noise but still enjoy the great outdoors.

Tokutokuya 206 Pasteur For anyone in search of an odds-and-ends shop, look no further than this Japanese import. Packed with everything from gardening materials and storage containers to hair products, children's art supplies, pet care items and all manner of tchotchke, Tokutokuya has something for everyone. Due to the varied nature of its goods, prices have a wide range, but some of the staff members speak English and are able to help customers searching for a specific product. Otherwise, this shop is an ideal place to discover musthaves that you never knew you needed.

Saigon Casa 228 Pasteur A recent District 1 transplant, Saigon Casa's design philosophy speaks for itself through a sleek, sophisticated exterior and the rows of colourful samples that line its showroom walls. Supplying Italian-made ceramic and porcelain tiles to both home and business owners, the company offers high-quality materials as well as design consultation in creating contemporary spaces, from kitchens and bathrooms

to offices and outdoor pools.

Saigon Casa also carries ecofriendly products certified by the American-based Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design, or LEED, as well as goods endorsed by Ecolabel, the European standard for environmentally friendly building products.

Hassan's Carpets 232 Pasteur Having had time to settle into its District 3 storefront, Hassan's Carpets stands out in that it ishalf one of thehor.pdf only suppliers SEED page 1 8/30/13 of authentic Persian rugs in

the city. Boasting a remarkable collection of hand-knotted carpets from throughout the Middle East and Central and South Asia, this family-owned business began in Singapore before making the leap to other Southeast Asian countries. In addition to its Persian masterpieces, Hassan's also offers more standard carpeting, including contemporary European-made rugs. Prices depend on the material and quality of the item, but the staff is incredibly knowledgeable and able 4:59 PMto assist customers in finding the right carpet.

Phan Gia Coffeeshop 286 Pasteur A new kid on the block and no more than 10 feet across, this miniature storefront is easy to walk by, as it blends in with other businesses crammed onto the very end of Pasteur. A well-equipped barista counter gives way to the narrow seating area beyond and a well-lit upstairs, where the massive bay window offers nice views of the bustling intersection below. Phan Gia's menu lists typical offerings like coffee and fruit smoothies, though the favourite is tac xay, a refresh-

ing ice-cold blend of honey, mint and kumquat. Snacks are also available, including meat skewers and french fries, though portions are certainly snack-sized. For something different, try the banh gao Han Quoc, a Korean dish featuring thin, savoury glutinous rice cakes served over sausage, onions, peppers and okra, all topped with kimchi for a slight kick.

Items range from VND 15,000 to VND Get directions 50,000.

Nikki George For nearly a decade, Zimbabwean Nikki George has led treks through the 96-kilometre-long Kokoda Track in Papua New Guinea. The arduous jungle route was the setting for fierce World War II battles and soars to a height of 2,190 metres. Ellie Dyer meets the adventurous tour leader at her Phnom Penh home.

How did you become involved in the Kokoda Track?

I was a diving instructor for 15 years in Australia and everybody was constantly talking about the dive sites in Papua New Guinea.

When I got there, I thought I was going to fall into the diving side of things, but I met this lady in the gym one day who told me she was starting a trekking company. I was helping her with marketing and I just went along on a trek and said, “You know, I think I can do this.” Within a couple of months, I was leading the treks and getting very much involved in trying to understand the history and the spirit of the experience.

What is the historical significance of the track?

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It’s World War II history. The Japanese were trying to get to Port Moresby and use its airbase to cut off Australia in 1942. After the Battle of the Coral Sea and the Battle of Midway, they couldn’t reach it by boat, so they decided to take Port Moresby by land, which is just crazy. When you see the terrain there are no flat bits, it is all mountains. The only people who were going to stop these Japanese were the Australian reserves. They were graded ‘F’ for unfit for combat. This group of 500 men were up against 4,000 initial Japanese and they had to try and delay them as long as possible to get troops up from Australia to reinforce them. They were out there for two and a half months in the

jungle in torrential rain, really bad conditions. It was about the spirit, the courage and the endurance that brought the best out of them. It could have broken them, but it didn’t.

Do you feel a sense of the past on the route?

It’s an incredible journey because when you are walking the track, you are walking history. Every single time you walk in these footsteps or think oh god, I’m exhausted, you just think back to what if I’d been shot in the leg or the arm or had lost my buddy that morning.

But the general beauty around is incredible. You can’t imagine that it was the site of a major battle, and that so many men lost their lives on the track.

Eventually, the Japanese had to turn around — it was the first time they retreated in the Pacific War. Are a lot of people drawn to the trek because of its history?

Generally, it was the first time that Australians had battled on their own soil, of course remembering that it was Australian territory in 1942. So for Australians, it’s a bit of a pilgrimage to who they are and what their culture is all about.

If it wasn’t for the unity that Australians can pull together in times of difficulty, I don’t think they would have been as successful. While we are doing the trek I usually pick out a few poems. One is ’What do you say to a dying man’ — it is incredibly

emotional. Not many people walk away without a tear.

How challenging is the jungle terrain?

I call it the Amazon of the South Pacific. It’s thick jungle, but beautiful and scattered with stunning foliage. It’s all pinks, greens and vines draping down; waterfalls and rivers with amazing bridges put together with sticks and vines. I’ve walked it 55 times and spent more than a year in the jungle. It just keeps giving something else of itself.

When I started you just couldn’t help but see the [local] kids, and learn their names. But over the 10 years that I’ve been trekking, those kids are now adults and having children of their own.

One lady, her name’s Eileen,

was an eight-year-old girl when I first met her. She’s just had her baby, and she’s called her Nikki, which is really sweet.

What are the biggest challenges for trekkers?

People not looking after their feet is probably the biggest concern. So generally my role — other than as a medic, historian and a logistical manager — is to make sure people are aware of putting vaseline on their feet and powdering their feet at night time to dry them off. As soon as you start to get blisters and things like that, your experience can become a different one.

Are there any animals to watch out for?

Well, they have tree kangaroos. They look exactly like a kangaroo but they don’t have as long legs, they jump from one tree to another and come in greys, reds and oranges.

The area is famous for its birds of paradise, but you don’t go there for the wildlife, as most of it’s nocturnal. Once, I came down a hill and another trekking group said I think your guys [the porters] had just killed a cassowary. They had, because one of them had been chased up a tree by a cassowary. He broke off a branch and hit it over the head, and it fell down dead. The next thing, they’d plucked the cassowary, as all the feathers are used for headdresses. It was just like a giant chicken.

After all these years, do you feel an affinity with the country?

The country is spectacular … but mostly it’s wonderful and soulful because of the people. If you walk into any of the villages, you’ll see how warm the people are. They usually only have one shirt spare, but if you felt like you needed something, they’d give you anything just to keep you happy. The Papua New Guineans are the best ambassadors to promote their country.

The track is best visited between August and October.

For more information, visit: Executiveexcellence.com.au asialife HCMC 17

PHOTO ESSAY:

The Walled City

Photos by Fred Wissink. Text by Esther de la Cruz.

Intramuros, the medieval fort city and historic heart of Manila, is a playground for anyone who enjoys a stroll back in time. Crumbling cathedrals, stone citadels and turn-of-thecentury Spanish homes are what’s left of the 64-hectare walled city the Spaniards built at the mouth of the Pasig River in the late 1500s.

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There’s plenty to see within the walls. A walk along restored sections of the ramparts reveals hidden gardens and plazas. Fascinating museums are tucked away on cobblestone streets, and the bullet-riddled barracks, bastions and dungeons of Fort Santiago tell a story of their own. Intramuros’ crown jewel, the Manila Cathedral, is now on

its 8th edition — having been persistently rebuilt by Manila's faithful following numerous calamities.

Carlos Celdran, one of the most controversial characters on the Philippine tourism scene, hosts his popular ‘Walk This Way’ tour through Intramuros in the afternoons; but there are Segway tours and horse car-

riages for those who prefer a more leisurely pace.

Visitors who need more time to explore the city’s treasures should check out the Bayleaf Intramuros, a modern four-star hotel open since 2011. The Bayleaf’s breezy rooftop Skydeck is the best place to soak up spectacular sunset views of the historic capital, Manila Bay and beyond.

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Making Education Work Education is the backbone of any society, and Vietnam is no different. However, the heavy focus on exams and college entrance tests are leaving both students and employers with limited choices. By Lien Hoang. Photos by Fred Wissink.

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T

here’s not much good news about the global economy.

Growth is slowing to a record lull and Vietnam risks getting stuck in the middle-income trap if it doesn’t move beyond shoes and coffee. A key way out of this morass is education, especially a push for vocational and technical education that’ll prepare young people to contribute to the economy.

Vietnamese college students might not have to worry about the tuition bubble hanging over their American counterparts.

But both countries do share a common realisation about education beyond high school: they have spent too many years focused on degrees of mostly nominal value, and now look to shift to a more pragmatic course. In the United States, the issue is a tradition of liberal arts colleges — the critical, holistic thinking those schools engender certainly benefits students, but that’s not enough to stave off the exodus from the humanities, as the New York Times noted in an editorial this summer titled, ‘The Decline and Fall of the English Major’.

In Vietnam, the issue is over-emphasis on exams (leading to cramming and cheating on the national university entrance test), as well as obsession with the diploma for its own sake (leading to recurring scandals of degree-buying). Employers complain that this gives them an emerging workforce that doesn’t have the skills needed for the jobs that are open. For example, a candidate could be a number-crunching wiz, but not know how to apply his abilities to the workplace. The Asian Development Bank wrote on the East Asia Forum that domestic institutions “have been unable to produce sufficient quantities of the highly qualified staff that many service industries are heavily reliant on”.

Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dung recognises these shortcomings. In recent years he has called repeatedly to boost the nation’s

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training capacity. The Ministry of Labour, Invalids and Social Affairs is aiming for 26 high-quality vocational schools by 2015 and 40 by 2020. “During 2016-20, Vietnam will train about 2.9 million graduates from vocational colleges and schools, of which 10 percent will meet the national, ASEAN and international standards,” Tuoi Tre reported in January.

There are already 450 vocational schools total, along with 900 training centres across the country. But getting butts in seats has been a challenge. Enrollment has come in under targets, and rivalries between tradi-

There are already 450 vocational schools total, along with 900 training centres across the country.

But getting butts in seats has been a challenge. tional universities and vocational schools is hurting the students they’re supposed to serve. The latter schools, fearing a threat from their more established competitors, lobbied for a ban on universities recruiting undergrads for occupational courses.

But last year the Ministry of Education and Training (emphasis on and Training) issued a stay on the ban until 2017.

With half its population under 30 years old, Vietnam has no shortage of students taking on tourism and marketing majors.

But it could use more people studying to become, for instance, technicians, engineers, and computer scientists. Internet penetration is high and growing — about

a third of the country, or 31 million people, are online, according to eMarketer.

Of course, there are areas in which progress is visible. Just take a walk over to Ton Duc Thang University, a public school founded with a vocational mission under the Vietnam General Confederation of Labour.

Classes are brimming at Ton Duc Thang’s campus in Binh Thanh District, offering courses in science, technology, business, even labour relations. “If there’s a desire for it, we teach it,” professor Cao Van Cu says, stepping out of a class in which he was showing students, mostly young men, mathematical formulas on a chalkboard.

Cu teaches technical courses related to architecture and construction, but says his school also trains people in electrician work, bartending, air-conditioning repair, and telecommunications.

In March, Vietnamese students came in second place at the ninth annual Asean Skill Competition, which focuses on vocational training. “The performance reflected the enormous efforts to adopt a new teaching method in order to produce a contingent of young and highly-skilled workers, therefore helping meet national demand during the global integration process,” Dan Tri newspaper paraphrased Deputy Prime Minister Vu Van Ninh as saying.

Vietnamese have been known for their math and science aptitude, even impressing a Google representative on a visit this year.

But translating that into useful outcomes for their country is another matter. “While competitiveness is crucial for growth and development, especially in a globalising world, productivity improvements should not be pursued through low-cost labour,” the International Labour Organisation wrote in 2010. “For a qualified and spirited labour force in the years to come, equal investment in education and technical vocational training for women and men is needed in order to achieve full and productive employment for all in Vietnam.”

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Required Reading

Few students relish the thought of spending hours with their noses stuck in the pages of assigned reading. But these pieces of literature have lasting effects on a country’s culture and national consciousness. Lien Hoang gets the lowdown on what students across Vietnam are reading.

Marx, Engels, and Lenin aren’t the only game in town. If you’ve ever wondered what literature is taught in Vietnamese schools, this should offer some idea, at least when it comes to foreign authors.

Skimming through the reading list is like tracing the history of Vietnam itself. Starting from the mid-19th century, the influence of French colonialists persists today, as students continue to read translations of Guy de Maupassant, Honore de Balzac and Paul Eluard.

They not only read The Miser, by Moliere, but even take on the roles of its characters in school plays.

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As France made its way out in the 1950s, a deepening Cold War warmed relations between communist comrades in Vietnam and the Soviet Union. That was particularly the case from 1975, when Vietnam united under communism, and 1991, when the reverse happened in the Soviet Union. Russian writers from Fyodor Dostoevsky and Leo Tolstoy to Alexander Pushkin and Maxim Gorky entered the canon, as did Kyrgyzstan's Chinghiz Aitmatov. Add to these the short stories Gooseberries, by the requisite Anton Chekhov, and The Fate of a Man, by Nobel laureate Mikhail Aleksandrovich Sholokhov.

Of course all this depended not just on the linguistic skills of Vietnamese translators, but also on the constraints for publishers. Before the United States and Vietnam normalised ties in the 1990s, the literary selection was more limited. “At the time, the political situation in Vietnam was delicate, so I had to consider that,” says Nguyen Thu Huong, who heads Hoa Sen University’s English department.

He says it used to be more difficult to obtain permission to translate and publish certain works from English. But now Ernest Hemingway (Old Man and the Sea), Jack

London (The Call of the Wild) and William Faulkner are quite popular.

Even more so are modern bestsellers like JK Rowling’s Harry Potter series, which young Vietnamese like to share and discuss. Tenth grader Tran Dang Minh Triet says that’s his favourite, especially The Deathly Hallows, as well as Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s yarns about Sherlock Holmes.

“English books, I mainly read fantasy stories,” Triet says. “They’re gripping and fun.”

Triet, who wants to be an English teacher like his mother, says the literature also teaches him about other cultures. Indeed, when countries decide which authors to add to a curriculum, they’re also making decisions about cultural lessons that shape the national consciousness. Here, that’s up to a committee at the Ministry of Education and Training, as well as its provincial and municipal counterparts.

Then there’s the private sector, though still state-controlled. When a new author becomes available in Vietnamese, people pay attention. “Recently, there’s been growing

Skimming through the reading list is like tracing the history of Vietnam itself. interest in American literature,” Huong says, rattling off the likes of O Henry, Edgar Allan Poe and Alice Walker When choosing works for syllabi at the university, Huong says he considers three factors: a book’s reputation, how it reflects humanity, and whether the message suits Viet-

namese. Down-and-out Vietnamese certainly can identify with the world of Charles Dickens, or Victor Hugo’s Les Miserables. Perhaps that’s why he’s revered in the Vietnamese religion of Cao Dai. Vietnamese certainly took note when the film adaptation starring Hugh Jackman and Russell Crowe hit theatres this year. Huong even argues that southerners can relate to the independent spirit of Mark Twain, especially in Tom Sawyer. In general, he sees northerners as resembling the conservative British, and southerners as living in a sort of American Wild West.

Then there are the classics, starting from Greek myths and Hans Christian Andersen tales for new bibliophiles. Miguel de Cervantes makes the cut for penning the first novel, Don Quixote. And no literature class would be complete without William Shakespeare; here they read Romeo and Juliet, Hamlet, and Julius Caesar. But that probably can be said in just about any country. asialife HCMC 27

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With air pollution and motorbike ownership at an all-time-high in Vietnam, electronic motorbikes seem like the next best step. But have poor quality e-bikes already tainted the market?

By Chris Mueller. Photo by Fred Wissink.

It’s a strange feeling at first.

Although I’m driving more than 30km/h through the narrow streets of a neighbourhood in Tan Phu District, the scooter I’m riding doesn’t make a sound.

I knew electric vehicles were quiet, but I didn’t expect them to be this quiet. With just a flick of the wrist, the bike accelerates faster than any scooter I’ve driven. Perched high on the seat, I feel like I’m more floating than driving.

“I told you, everyone finishes the ride with a smile,” William Sikes says as I pull up to Saigon Scooter Centre’s showroom. The VTronic, developed over the past two and a half years by Sikes and Patrick Joynt, owner of Saigon Scooter Centre, is a fully electronic Vespa replica. Designed as a city commuter, the scooter tops out past 60km/h and has a range of more than 40km after a full charge, which takes 4 1/2 hours.

Although electric scooters and Vietnam’s motorbike-mad culture seem like a perfect fit, there are very few around. Despite more than 35 million motorbikes already on the roads here and a growing air pollution problem — Vietnam ranked among the top 10 most polluted countries in the 2012 Environmental Performance Index — no e-bike company has successfully cracked the market.

Sikes and Joynt hope to change that by finding a niche with the VTronic and their Lambretta version, the EBretta. Wth

the VND 116 million pricetag they don’t expect to be flooding the market. Instead, they are targeting expats and locals looking for a classic European scooter, but also want to keep up with the times.

“The whole industry is moving towards electric,” Joynt says.

But few companies have had real financial success while maintaining that green appeal, especially in Asia. In China, where more than 100 million e-bikes have been bought in the last decade, their environmental impacts are still unclear.

Chinese e-bike manufacturers mainly use cheap lead-acid batteries, which are heavily polluting the environment, says Christopher Cherry, an associate professor at the University of Tennessee who has researched the impacts of electric vehicles in China. These batteries leak from 30 to 35 percent of the lead during the industrial process, Cherry says. It also doesn’t help that the vast majority of China’s power — between 80 and 90 percent — comes from dirty coal plants. So instead of motorbikes belching pollution into the urban environment, the pollutants are displaced to areas around the coal plants, making little difference to the overall air pollution levels.

But Joynt and Sikes are using cleaner and efficient lithium-ion

The all-electric VTronic from Saigon Scooter Centre.

Photos: Nguyen Nguyen

batteries, and most of the electricity in Vietnam comes from hydroelectric sources.

“If e-scooters replaced or displaced motorcycles in Vietnam, that would be a net win across the board,” Cherry says. “No new safety issues would have to be introduced, and there wouldn’t be too many new environmental issues — unless lead batteries are used.”

The main problem in Vietnam, however, isn’t whether the bikes are clean, but getting Vietnamese to actually buy them. Chinese e-bike companies made a big push in the Vietnamese market around 2006, but quickly floundered and pulled out.

“When Vietnamese people think about e-bikes, they only think about the cheap Chinese bikes,” says Shingo Hayashi, general director of e-bike company Terra Motors Vietnam, a Japanese startup that recently set up shop in Ho Chi Minh City.

That’s why Terra, which has orders for about 10 of its A4000i scooters so far, is focusing first on a major PR campaign to polish the image of e-bikes.

They are targeting the rich and famous, hand picking their first customers to make their e-bike something cool to drive.

While the A4000i is not cheap — priced at VND 84 million — it’s not all about image and gimmicks (though their iPhone

dock in the dashboard certainly is a gimmick). The bike has a top speed of 65km/h, range of 65km and charge time of 4 1/2 hours.

It uses a high-quality lithium-ion battery that is easily removed to be charged indoors. Since launching in Japan in 2010, Terra has sold 3,000 to 4,000 bikes a year there, Hayashi says. But the Japanese e-bike market isn’t big, so Terra decided to target Southeast Asia, starting with the Philippines and Vietnam.

Hayashi says once the luxury version starts to sell well, they will release an already-developed, less powerful e-bike at half the price.

But the question many ask is: how much do you actually save on gas? Joynt says he expects the VTronic, which should run for 10 years without any major upkeep costs, will pay for itself in gas savings after five years. Terra doesn’t forecast as optimistically, but they do have a handy slider on their website to calculate savings — and they aren’t minor.

If you drive 30km a day with the bike and use it for five years, you will save just over VND 31 million.

But even with significant gas savings, if e-bikes are to gain traction in Vietnam, they need to run on clean power while still being affordable.

“I’m not sure what the future holds in Vietnam,” professor Cherry says, “but it’s going to take something different.”

Terra Motors' A4000i electric scooter.

Photos: courtesy of Terra

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Some sex workers in Vietnam end up marrying western husbands — but when they move abroad, life turns out to be far from the fantasies they expect.

Kimberly Kay Hoang finds out firsthand by working as a bartender/hostess at bars frequented by rich locals and foreigners. Photo by Fred Wissink.

I first met Tram in 2006 in a tiny bar on Pham Ngu Lao Street.

Tram and other sex workers in the backpacker bar, disguised as bartenders, catered to western budget travellers seeking brief encounters or longer relationships-for-hire. They were the bar’s key attraction, but the women received no wages from the owner; they were independent entrepreneurs in a niche of the sex trade.

Tram, 27 years old and adorned with bracelet, rings, and a diamond necklace, was a model of success and economic mobility. She lived in a brandnew luxury condo with two servants, a full-time housecleaner and a cook who prepared west30 asialife HCMC

ern food for her new American husband. Tram had come from a poor village, she told me, where the only jobs were in the rice fields. In Ho Chi Minh City, she worked first as a maid and then in a clothing factory. But after two years of earning no more than the equivalent of $70 a month, Tram had saved no money, could barely cover food and rent, and saw no hope for improvement. “Life in the city is so expensive,’’ she said. She saw sex work as her best route out of poverty.

Tram met William, 70, as a client, and quickly began to develop a more intimate relationship with him, hoping her emotional labour might lead to

ongoing economic support — in a remittance relationship, or marriage. Western men who come to Vietnam seeking wives, or who become attached to women they hire once there, often sympathise with their plight and want to take them out of the sex trade and care for them.

Six months after they met, William asked Tram to marry him and move to North America.

They were married in 2007.

In 2009, I reconnected with Tram, along with William and their three children at an airport outside of Montreal, Canada.

As we drove the three hours to their home, passing lumber farms, acres of undeveloped land, and pastures sprinkled

with sheep, I commented on its beauty and tranquility.

But Tram expressed no such sentiments. She had never intended to escape small-town Vietnam, she said, only to end up in another small town in rural Canada. She had hoped to move to the United States, and had dreamed of living in Los Angeles or New York, “a big city, like the movies”.

Instead, she found herself isolated in a cold climate and working long hours. Williams’ savings had dwindled, thanks to the expense of immigration, and they had arrived in North America smack in the middle of a global recession. For a year and a half, she worked nights

and weekends for her brotherin-law’s lumber company. She did see progress: By June of the year I came to visit, she had saved more than $20,000 and, with her sister-in-law, opened a small shop selling local produce. But she was now the primary breadwinner, while William, retired but without much of his savings, stayed home with the children. “This is not what I thought my life would be like,” she said.

The story of Tram and William, like that of other couples in my study, suggests a reversal of the usual trajectory of marital journeys. In Vietnam, the opening to the west in recent decades has inspired some women, usually between the ages of 17 and 32, to seek strategic marriages with western men through sex work. While women who travelled from Vietnam to western countries to

be with their husbands did not intend to seek out employment, two-thirds of the women in my study ended up becoming their family’s primary breadwinner — reversing typical expectations.

William, like most men in my study, had come to Vietnam deliberately seeking a wife, while others discovered these opportunities once they arrived on visits. Either way, they were eager to find women who would enter a marriage with traditional gender roles that were fast disappearing at home. Their expectations were simple; the men would provide the economic support and the women would provide care, housekeeping and emotional labour.

What happened instead was a classic case of “gender vertigo”. Sociologist Barbara Risman used this term to describe

the dizzying effect on people who adopt, or find themselves having to embrace, a radical and unfamiliar social role that upends their ideas of how family structures and society work.

In my study, most of the women had expected to end their working days once they reached their destination.

Instead, most of them quickly ended up finding jobs, looking for income to supplement that of their husbands', and hoping to send money home to family in Vietnam. Many women quickly became the main breadwinner, often working double shifts, with husbands working less lucrative jobs or at home doing childcare.

This experience of transnational gender vertigo reframes our understandings of sex work, migration, and gendered relationships across transnational spaces.

These couples stayed married, for better or for worse, as the transformation of marriage, migration, and love gave rise to new and different dreams for the future. As one source told me, “Do tinh den bac,” a phrase that means when you have luck with love or romance, your economic luck may decline. While Tram and the other women I studied embarked on migration journeys believing they were sacrificing love for economic fortune, many ended up struggling economically — and some found love along the way.

Kimberly Kay Hoang is an assistant professor of sociology at Boston College. This is an excerpt from her full-length article, which originally appeared in Contexts magazine (Contexts.org/articles/ spring-2013/transnationalgender-vertigo). More about her at Kimberlykayhoang.com. asialife HCMC 31

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Wrecked and Pillaged

Vietnam may be home to the largest number of underwater archaeology sites in the world, which could reveal much about the history of the region as far back as the 1st century — if treasure hunters don’t plunder them first. By Chris Mueller. Photo by Fred Wissink.

Captain Kidd, one of the world’s most infamous pirates, was hanged in London in 1701, his body left to rot in the open as a warning to others. Before his death at the gallows, Kidd is said to have buried a massive amount of treasure — upwards of $15 million today — during his world travels. Many have scoured old maps, books and the open ocean trying to find it, but its whereabouts still remains a mystery.

In the early 1980s, a failed British actor named Richard Knight thought he had found the treasure’s location on the small island of Hon Tre Lon near Phu Quoc, at the tip of southern Vietnam. Knight and his American partner Cork Graham left Thailand in 1983 and headed to the island. Author Glenys Roberts, who helped Knight write his memoirs and contributed to a documentary about him, wrote that Knight claimed to have actually found Kidd’s stash before this trip but couldn’t transport it alone. So he and Graham had gone back to the island to claim it.

Before they could finish digging, something went wrong.

Knight and Graham were arrested by Vietnamese militia and ended up spending 14 months in prison in Kien Giang province.

After paying a large fine, they were released. Years later, Knight disappeared and Roberts wrote in a Daily Mail article that he had died some time in 2001, still claiming he knew the location of Kidd’s lost treasure.

Whether Knight was telling the truth of Captain Kidd’s gold may never be known. But what is now clear is that the coast, islands and rivers of Vietnam are chock-full of treasures that are arguably more valuable than any pirate booty ever could be. Ex-

perts say Vietnam may have the largest number of underwater archaeology sites on the planet, which could reveal much about the history of the region.

“I don’t think there is anywhere else I can think of that would have better, more important, more significant [archaeological] material than Vietnam,” Dr Mark Staniforth, a senior researcher in maritime archaeology at Monash University in Australia, told me in a Skype interview from Melbourne. “The sheer volume along the coast is truly astounding.”

Staniforth first visited Vietnam in 2008 when he was able to work on one of the country’s more significant sites on the Bach Dang River, about 20km

wooden stakes that had been driven into the riverbed. By the end of the battle, the Vietnamese had burned or sunk most of the enemy ships, and defeated the invading horde.

Today, many of these wooden stakes still exist and some have been recovered. There is also evidence of the destroyed fleet.

While the Vietnamese have been working on this site since the 1950s, Staniforth says there is still much to be discovered.

“That site itself could keep a team working for a decade and it could reveal all sorts of things about the 13th-century invasions,” he says.

But it’s not only battles and pirates that Vietnam’s underwater sites have to offer. Merchant

“I don’t think there is anywhere else I can think of that would have better, more important, more significant [archaeological] material than Vietnam.”

Dr Mark Staniforth, senior researcher in maritime archaeology, Monash University north of Hai Phong.

It was here that in 1288 an invading Mongol fleet was destroyed. Prior to the battle, a Mongol army sent by Kublai Khan had taken the Vietnamese capital of Thang Long (now Hanoi), but soon afterwards the Mongols found themselves stuck in a city without supplies.

The invaders abandoned the capital, choosing to retreat rather than starve. But the Vietnamese had other plans. Led by the famous General Tran Hung Dao, Vietnamese forces lured the fleet of 400 Mongol ships down the Bach Dang River just as the tide ebbed. The retreating Mongols were forced into hundreds of

ships moving between China and the Arab world would have stopped at Vietnam’s many ports beginning in the 7th century.

There is also material evidence dating back to AD700 found in Vietnam’s countless ports and towns that have been swallowed by the sea, and in ships now at the bottom of rivers. There are likely so many of these sites that Staniforth says there is no way he could calculate their number.

“All this is literally on Vietnam’s doorstep,” he says.

Unfortunately, he adds, Vietnamese underwater archaeologists have very little funding and lack even the most basic equipment to do proper research.

“When we first started coming over in 2008 they asked us to bring some of our equipment,” Staniforth says. “We thought they wanted marine magnetometers and sonar, equipment worth hundreds of thousands of dollars. We quickly realised they meant equipment down to a basic level, such as boats. The senior archaeologists hadn’t used simple equipment. They hadn’t even seen GPS units.”

But that is slowly changing as government officials are starting to realise the importance of Vietnam’s underwater heritage. Until very recently, few Vietnamese-led underwater surveys had been conducted, and with thousands of sites across the country, there is little the authorities can do to protect ones that have been found. Fishermen discover many of the sites, but plunder the artifacts and sell them on the black market. If the locals don’t get to them first, often times salvage companies or professional treasure hunters do. There even have been cases where local governments have hired salvage companies to search shipwrecks, only to sell the artifacts in order to pay the companies.

While treasure hunting remains a rampant problem, local and international archaeologists are hopeful. In July, Vietnam’s Institute of Archaeology started an underwater archaeology department, and Dr Le Thi Lien, who heads the new department, says things are looking up.

“More and more archaeological sites are being excavated and preserved,” she says.

“More Vietnamese are beginning to understand the value of archaeology.” asialife HCMC 33

Shaping up

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As more Vietnamese swap country life for the big city, physical fitness is falling by the wayside.

By Dana Filek-Gibson. Photos by Nguyen Nguyen.

It’s early morning at Tao Dan Park, and a group of women are congregating around their aerobics instructor, a squat lady with a microphone. Some are working hard, bouncing up and down to the techno beat — but most are halfhearted, staring off into space or stopping to rest on the park benches.

That’s the problem with local attitudes towards fitness.

People might be willing to give work-outs a try, but only until the first bead of sweat appears.

To be fair, exercise is not something most Vietnamese have had to think about until recently. Even today, a farmer in the countryside logs more than enough hours tending crops to stay fit. But as a growing number of people trade rice paddies and coffee farms for factories and office buildings, the separation of work and exercise has raised a new question among many urban Vietnamese: If physical fitness is no longer a job requirement, how does it fit into one's daily life?

Nguyen Bao, a personal trainer affiliated with Star Fitness and the Saigon Personal Trainers Network, concedes that for many of his fellow countrymen, exercise does not rank high on their list of priorities. More concerned with food, shelter and employment, many view physical activity as a leisurely pursuit rather than a form of preventative medicine.

“Vietnamese think that health is hospital,” Bao says.

“When you have sickness or pain, you go to hospital and the doctors will give you health. Going to the gym is to help you stay away from hospital, but Vietnamese people

don't know that. They think the gym is something for sport.”

But that mentality could have adverse effects on public health. According to a 2009-10 survey by the World Health Organisation, 28.7 percent of Vietnamese adults nationwide are physically inactive, the large majority of them concentrated around urban areas like Hanoi, Hue and Ho Chi Minh City. Combined with even minimal changes in diet — let alone the introduction of fast food chains like Burger King and KFC — this lack of exercise has caused the number of people suffering from conditions like hypertension and obesity to escalate. The WHO

physical fitness as part of a healthy lifestyle was never even discussed.

As such, the challenge now falls on Bao and his peers to change the thinking and lifestyles of the local population.

While he rarely works with younger Vietnamese clients, Bao has seen a growing number of middle-aged locals get into fitness training, often at the behest of a doctor. He also says there is a noticeable difference in the approach of local trainees versus their foreign counterparts.

“Vietnamese people [exercise] to lose weight or ... because they had a heart attack or something,” he says. “But with foreigners I see a difference.

“Going to the gym is to help you stay away from hospital, but Vietnamese people don't know that.

They think the gym is something for sport.”

Nguyen Bao, a personal trainer affiliated with Star Fitness and the Saigon Personal Trainers Network

estimates as many as two million Vietnamese suffer from type 2 diabetes, with more than half of them undiagnosed and possibly even unaware of their condition.

Schools do little to help.

Physical education classes are lackluster at best and space in local schools is limited. As Bao remembers it, his gym teacher was “only focused on the result”, meaning that naturally athletic students were praised for their abilities while the rest were encouraged to simply try harder. The idea of treating

Most of my clients want to push themselves to maximize their energy. If [foreigners] have an appointment, they commit.

Vietnamese people, they [make an] appointment with you and say, ‘I'm tired’ or something and cancel.”

The same problem holds true for Nguyen Thanh Tu, the manager of sales at GetFit Gym and Yoga, one of the largest fitness centres in the city. Unlike Bao's clientele, the majority of GetFit's members were born in 1985 or later, making them a younger demographic. Tu says

they know they need to get in shape; how to do it is another question.

“A lot of Vietnamese people now, they come and they don't know how to exercise,” Tu says.

Roughly a third of GetFit's 3,000 members make use of its personal training services to guide their exercise routines.

But for every 10 appointments the gym makes, only three clients actually show up. Even on a good day, no more than 800 people will pass through GetFit's doors, a fraction of its actual membership. According to Tu, some 10 percent of memberships sold are never even used, but simply paid for and left at the front desk.

“We really have to work to get people coming in,” he says.

And they do. To sign people up, the gym tries everything from telemarketing to iPad giveaways. Clearly, with GetFit's sheer numbers, the methods are working. But what the gym is selling is not entirely about fitness. Membership affords people another space in which to see and be seen But Tu says just getting people in the door at all is a good thing. Despite all the fair-weather members he meets, there are also a select few whose lives have been drastically improved by getting fit.

On Teacher's Day last year, he received a phone call from one of the gym's older members, a man who had begun exercising under doctor's orders and had managed to change his health for the better. Tu still believes there is a long way to go, but he saw this small thank-you as proof that all the cold calls and discounts are slowly but surely making an impact.

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This city’s climate can be tiring, but it also means any time of year is perfect for a refreshing dip in a pool.

Ruben Luong dons his swimming cap and finds the best places around town to cool down.

Photos by Nguyen Nguyen.

LAN ANH CLUB

The Caravelle Hotel recently completed renovations to their seventh-floor freeform pool, making it a fresh, luxurious oasis that's worth checking out. The revamp of the outdoor pool cost VND 2.7 billion and three weeks of the summer. Not surprisingly, its latest metamorphosis is elegant and beats other hotel pools in the area aesthetically. In keeping with the Caravelle’s environmental priorities (it received a Green Lotus Label and a Silver EarthCheck certification last year), the 30-metre, conch-shaped pool now features a modern and efficient LED system for night swimming, so I recommend taking a dip then. There's also plenty of planters and tropical trees to keep it earthy, but among its best features are new eco-friendly and locally fired deck tiles and indigo-blue pool tiles that make the water majestic, romantic and alluring.

Atop the fifth and sixth floors of the historic Rex Hotel are two outdoor swimming pools.

The sixth-floor rooftop pool is a simple 20metre rectangle that's suitable for hanging out poolside or for an hour-long wade in an afternoon of blistering heat. Meanwhile, you can order food and drinks from La Cochinchine bar, adjacent to the pool area.

Near a mini-garden, a procession of wooden deck chairs line in parallel formation opposite the pool. It keeps socialising mostly away from the water, allowing for productive swims. The urban panorama that paints the sky is perhaps one of the best perks to swimming here. It's a sight that's continuously evolving at the Rex, which was originally built as a French garage in the early 20th century.

Lan Anh sports club is better known as a daily haunt for tennis buffs — the entrance of the club boasts an oversized tennis ball that you can't miss. But its 42-metre circular outdoor swimming pool is just as fun and recreational, and it generally brings in more locals and some foreigners. From one end of the pool, a blue slide cascades down from the second tier deck area, a favourite activity for children at the pool. In fact, children tend to frequent this pool often, especially when school's out or on weekends. If you're looking for a swim with minimal splashing, it's best to go during school hours or later in the evenings. Towards the deeper end of the pool, an island whirlpool lined by a canopy of palm trees resides at the centre. There's seating along its outer edge, so it's nice to linger, watch other swimmers, and chat in the water. At the other end is a poolside bar and underwater stools, so you won't have to get out to order a meal, a drink or ice cream.

For additional diversions, swim gear — including goggles, an assortment of toys, and swimwear — is also available for purchase at the entrance.

VND 500,000 for a one-day package (pool, gym, and sauna access) 19-23 Lam Son Square, D1 08 38 23 49 99, ext. 27020 6am-10pm

VND 175,000 for one person (includes sauna access) 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 08 38 29 21 85 6am-10pm

VND 35,000 weekdays, VND 50,000 weekends (+optional VND 10,000 for towel) 291 Cach Mang Thang 8, D10 08 38 62 74 20 6am-9pm

Caravelle Hotel

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REX HOTEL

LAM SON SWIMMING CLUB

The best pool to go to if you're looking to escape from the central hub is Van Thanh pool. It's about three-kilometres east from the city and is located in a well-known tourist park that's home to a large lake, peaceful pavilions, and beautifully manicured lawn areas along a bank lining the Thi Nghe canal. Not only does Van Thanh provide a rare breath of fresh air, it's perhaps one of the most relaxing and verdant places to visit and go swimming. The park often holds cultural festivals and events at night. But during the week, the sparselypopulated pool area is a quick getaway for city dwellers to decompress. Morning sojourns there are especially restorative.

Guests can sunbathe amidst lush scenery or wind down with loved ones under the park's tranquil shade.

Tucked down an alley full of locals and corner cafes in Cho Lon, the Lam Son Swimming Club has an Olympic-size outdoor swimming pool (50 metres) that is appropriate for general fitness swimming and freestyle laps without any fuss. The Lam Son facilities surrounding the pool were constructed in 1994 and are fairly old, but the spacious pool area retains a vintage, bygone charm. It opens early at 5am and remains a clean, accessible, and practical swim alternative for those who live nearby and who also want an affordable spot for regular swim workouts. Divided into seven lanes (with one larger one), people swim comfortably throughout the morning and late evening.

The outer lanes of the pool separate men and women, so it's important to be mindful of which lane you choose before you dive in.

Separate from the main pool are two smaller pools exposed on a lower level — a small one for children and a 25-metre rectangle for casual swimming, but they are mediocre compared to the crystalline lap pool that resides above.

VND 40,000 weekdays, VND 50,000 weekends 48/10 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh District 08 35 12 30 25 7am-8pm

VND 18,000 adults, VND 15,000 children 258 Tran Binh Trang, D5 08 38 35 17 26 5am-12pm; 1pm-4.20pm; 4.30pm-6.30pm

VAN THANH POOL

YET KIEU CLUB Neighbouring the Saigon Zoo on the east end of downtown, Yet Kieu Club is another affordable place for outdoor lap swimming, but closer to the city centre. Aptly named after a 13th-century Vietnamese general who was known for his swimming talent, Yet Kieu Club is one of the better-known competitive sports pools in the area. The club features one Olympic-size pool and one 25-metre pool — both popular with athletes, students, and locals, but they’re also expatfriendly. It's best to call in advance just to make sure the pools haven't been reserved for athletes or students, though. With that in mind, avoid visiting here if you are merely looking for a pool to cool down. This should be reserved for mornings or temperate evenings in which you want to achieve serious exercise. The facility is limited to two-hour blocks throughout the day, but the brief hours will encourage you to keep your swimming practice to a strict regimen.

VND 17,000 (50-meter pool), VND 12,000 (25-meter pool) 1 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 08 38 29 69 17 5am-7am; 11am-1pm; 4pm-6pm

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No Guardrails Here Her mother quits partway through, but Dana Filek-Gibson bikes on to keep up with her sadistically inexhaustible father in the perilous cliffs of Vietnam’s northwest.

In every town, in every province, we leave the locals both confused and impressed.

“Khoe!” they exclaim, pointing to my parents and their mud-splattered bicycles. The men, cigarettes dangling from their mouths, squeeze our tyres and click our gears. Children stare at us through their mothers' legs, bewildered. Ever since we left Hanoi, the three of us have become increasingly popular: me, a Vietnamesespeaking foreigner, and my parents, a couple of old folks on two wheels.

Out here, where people live on sloping mountainsides or perilously close to cliffs, it's not every day you see another human being — let alone a westerner — roll by on a push-bike.

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You're more likely to find boys leading buffaloes into the fields or women carrying baskets, thick leather straps across their foreheads, as they wander out of the dense forest.

On Highway 6 heading west to the Laos border, bicycles rarely make an appearance.

The Northwest Loop, a circuit running out of Hanoi toward Dien Bien Phu and then north to Sapa, is a world apart from the chaos of urban Vietnam. Full of winding mountain roads and wide river valleys, this region holds some of the most breathtaking and challenging terrain the country has to offer.

For my father, it is exactly what heaven looks like. An Ironman triathlete and general fitness addict, he practically

squeals with joy as we ascend Pha Din Pass, a never-ending, shadeless uphill that takes us 1,600 metres above sea level.

When we run out of water halfway up the 16-kilometre climb, my father can barely conceal a smile as he beams, “Well, there's no turning back now!”

My mother, on the other hand, isn't exactly thrilled. The cycling would be manageable, she insists, if it weren't for all the hills. Guardrails are nonexistent, unless you count the occasional concrete post sticking out of the grass, inches away from the edge. An equally vertical rock face on the opposite side of the road is forever under construction, men with jackhammers raining down chunks of stone upon us.

After years of living in jam-packed cities, I find the northwest's larger-than-life landscapes almost otherworldly.

You'll be hard-pressed to locate amenities like English speakers or functional showers, but that is part of the appeal.

As we move out of Hanoi toward Mai Chau, a small community shielded by limestone karsts, local ethnic Thai women begin to appear, their hair piled high atop their heads. Old men in berets smoke massive wooden thuoc Lao pipes. We whiz downhill around tight curves and back to sea level, breathless as we take on the next dramatic climb towards Tuan Giao.

On our final day before Sapa, we stop in Tam Duong. Even from a distance, Tram Ton Pass appears to be a wall of earth, looming large above the tiny village. My mother takes one look at tomorrow's route and refuses. We put her on a bus in the morning and I head out with my father.

It's a 25-kilometre trek up to the highest point. With every switchback a new waterfall appears, charging under the asphalt, which is somehow attached to this mountain and yet still able to make space for running water. The odd truck passes, groaning and screeching its way skyward, dangerously close to both me and the edge of a cliff. None of it seems real — the mountains, the rivers, the

dark snake of a road winding forward and up — but for the shadow of my father in the distance. After 11 straight days of riding, my quads are killing me.

I've become comfortable with the dirt and the snail's pace at which I'm crawling up this hill.

But being alone in these hills, trying to find the sky beyond every turn, makes me feel I've left Vietnam completely.

I catch up with my father just as he's leaning his bike against a post. A group of men sit inside the tarpaulin cave someone has erected at the edge of the road.

They’ve been staring ever since a sweaty, dirty six-foot-two foreign man rolled into their line of sight. Only now, as we turn and acknowledge them, a plastic jug of rice wine is extracted from between them to the tune of several hellos and a lot of laughter.

“It's freezing,” I say. Stuck in the middle of a cloud, the temperature has been steadily dropping since the sun abandoned us a few kilometres below. My legs cramp as we sit, protesting the ride, and even my father winces a little as he lowers himself onto a miniature stool beside the fire. Shots are poured, and after a couple rounds of no-I-couldn't we agree to one apiece.

Without the word for “summit”, it takes us a few tries, but eventually everyone understands that I want to know where the top of this godforsaken hill is. A moment of silence passes between us, and then the men break into laughter as the lone woman replies, smiling: “You're already here.”

Once I translate for my father, he is happy, too. I pump my fists and shout for joy, the only person in the tent excited by the news. Someone offers me barbecued meat, and even though I see the crisp, curled foot of what might be a pigeon attached to the morsel, I pretend not to notice and devour the snack. My father suggests we keep going so my mother isn't left alone for an entire day. In minutes we are gone, thanking everyone, cresting the top of the 2,000-metre pass, and sliding our way down out of the cloud and back to Vietnam.

A moment of silence passes between us, and then the men break into laughter as the lone woman replies, smiling: “You're already here.”

Photos by Dana Filek-Gibson

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Sunset at Vale do Capao.

Photo: Taisa Sganzerla

Brazilian journalist Taisa Sganzerla treks through Brazil’s true hidden gem: Chapada Diamantina, a sprawling national park once known for its rich diamond deposits.

A

s we approached the city of Itaberaba, during the 500km drive from Salvador to Lençois, the landscape began to change. Isolated mesas and huge blocks of rock started to emerge on a once-uneventful horizon.

When I opened the windows, I could feel a light chill in the dry, crisp air — much different from Salvador's moist sea breeze. We were still two hours away from Chapada Diamantina National Park's main city and entrance, but I could already tell we were in for some breathtaking scenery.

The national park encloses 152,000 hectares of mesas, mountains, canyons, caves, 40 asialife HCMC

lush vegetation and countless waterfalls. It's located in the countryside of Bahia, in northeast Brazil, and almost every river that bathes this part of the country is born here. While it's a mecca of ecotourism for Brazilians, Chapada is often overlooked by most international visitors who usually stick to Brazil's famous beaches.

Five main towns surround the park and work as bases for exploring it. Most of them were founded in the 17th century, when the first colonists discovered gold mines and rich alluvial diamond deposits in the region. By the 1870s, almost every single diamond had been extracted, and Chapada

Diamantina fell into disrepair.

It was not until 1985, when its geological, environmental and historic importance was finally acknowledged, that the national park was created.

Lençois was the first stop on our trip. This charming colonial town is Chapada's main tourist hub, with boutique hotels and little bistros making it a favourite spot for the less adventurous — not that it's unattractive for more intrepid explorers. A 15-minute walk from town led us to Serrano, a beautiful set of waterfalls and pools amid rock and sandstone formations. A few minutes from there is one of Lençois’ main attractions: Salão de

Areia, or Sand Saloon, a cave made entirely of sand, a result of the decomposition of very old rocks.

We didn't linger long. Our real destination was the village of Caeté-Açu, known by its geological location: Vale do Capão, or Capao Valley. It's not exactly easy to get there. From the small town of Palmeiras, some 50km from Lençois, a 45-minute drive on a dirt road leads to this village that time seems to have forgotten. There wasn’t even cell reception here.

Most of Vale do Capao's nature-loving dwellers arrived in the 1970s, wishing to trade an urban lifestyle for the tranquility of the country.

Waterfall near Ibicoara, on the way to Fumacinha.

Photo: Iuri Kothe

Vale do Pati. Photo: Iuri Kothe

Fumacinha's canyon and waterfall.

Photo: Iuri Kothe

A stone house at the ghost town of Igatu.

Photo: Iuri Kothe

Trek in the Buracão canyon.

Photo: Iuri Kothe

There you will find vegetarian restaurants, shiatsu massage houses and the town's own local circus. This alternative community of artists and hippies, many of them foreign, are welcoming; just don’t complain about the unpaved roads. They prefer to keep their little town as it is, and even the recent arrival of wifi encountered some resistance.

The village is shielded by one of South America's tallest waterfalls. Cachoeira da Fumaça, or Smoke Falls, is a tiny stream that falls over a 350m cliff. A two-hour hike leads to the top, where we sat and admired the breathtaking view of Capao Valley.

The falls are beautiful, but most trekkers visiting Chapada Diamantina agree the mustsee spot is Vale do Pati. There are many ways to explore the valley, mostly by hikes that last from three to six days (hire a local guide). There are no towns or villages in Vale do Pati, but some of the few inhabitants have turned their own homes into guest houses. One of them, Dona Raquel, has lived in the middle of Pati long before the park even existed, and now her hospitality is known in every corner of it.

Raquel's house is a perfect base for exploring Morro do Castelo, a huge, castle-like mountain. While it’s a tough

hump to the summit, even an inexperienced trekker can do it without any climbing gear.

Farther southeast is the town of Andaraí. Most pass through it to visit the real gem of the east: the ghost town of Igatu.

Igatu was one of Chapada Diamantina's main towns in the 19th century, with 10,000 or so inhabitants at the peak of the diamond era. Today, fewer than 500 people live there permanently. Its small population gives the village an abandoned look, and the small stone houses constructed by gold diggers of old add an air of mystique.

Finally, we made our way to Ibicoara, the final stop before

returning back to Salvador.

This little village is probably the least-visited town in Chapada Diamantina. Nearby, however, are two of the park's most remarkable waterfalls: Fumacinha and Buracao. Both are located inside canyons with 200-metre-high walls. The falls are only accessible in the drier seasons, usually from May through October. The view from Fumacinha canyon is spectacular: a tall and narrow waterfall entering a deep, dark pool, embraced by greenish walls covered with moss and lichen. Just one of the many reasons Chapada Diamantina is an underrated national treasure. asialife HCMC 41

Don’t Let Them Eat Cake!

As I’ve pointed out in this space before, the Vietnamese word “banh” is a word for which there is no satisfactory English equivalent. Spring rolls can be called banh, as can crepes. Sandwiches, and any baked goods are called banh.

Sweets and savouries wrapped in leaves to be steamed or grilled are called banh. The chief constant is that banh are small culinary bundles or other constructions, often eaten with the hands. Vietnamese who speak English generally refer to them as “cake”. You may be asked by some generous host if you would like a cake, but then are given a cookie. “Have a cake,” a merchant says, and hands you what amounts to a sausage roll.

There is one little trio of banh, each member of which requires a different name, yet all start with the same ingredients and the same basic cooking technique. All are eaten in the same way. Each is distinctive in appearance, but all have a similar taste. I’m talking about the banh xeo-khoai-khot clan.

The granddaddy of the clan, the banh xeo, is a descendant of the Indian dhosa, a large crepe filled with goodies. It can be so big that giant pans are required to cook it. The pans are too big for conventional stoves, so they are taken outside and cooked over open fires by cooks whose skill is born of thousands of banh xeo. And it's a great show to watch. So if you're in a traditional banh xeo shop, sit outside.

Like the other members of the troika, banh xeo begins with a batter of rice flour and coconut milk seasoned with turmeric.

It’s fried like any crepe then folded over pork and shrimp, as well as bean sprouts and herbs.

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Banh xeo is often referred to in English as a Vietnamese “pancake”. An abominable translation! As with the banh xeo’s descendants, the crepe is presented with a plate of fresh lettuce and herbs, as well as unripe fruits such as mango, green banana or papaya, starfruit or pineapple. Break off a little of the crepe, place it in the centre of a lettuce leaf, add some of the herbs, wrap the lettuce around the food and dip it into whatever sauce is close at hand. This is a dish definitely meant to be enjoyed with the hands.

In Hue they take the same recipe, reduce the size of the crepe, and fry it at such a high temperature that it comes out

dumpling. It’s made in a special pan of rolled metal with a series of hemispherical dimples about two inches across and an inch deep. A small pan might have five dimples, a big one two dozen. The cook apportions batter into each dimple and sets the whole upon a hot grill or other hot surface. In a trice each dimple dumpling is transformed into an herb-shot little creamy cloud of goodness, crisp and golden on the bottom and creamy and yellow within.

Pink shrimp, seared bits of ham, green flakes of coriander and other culinary jewels may bedeck it.

For banh xeo perhaps the oldest place in town is Banh Xeo 46A at 46A Dinh Cong Trang

“You may be asked by some generous host if you would like a cake, but then are given a cookie. 'Have a cake,' a merchant says, and hands you what amounts to a sausage roll.” like a crisp taco. Banh khoai, “happy crepes”, are in many ways the quintessence of central Vietnam cookery. They employ the five flavours, yield a complex bouquet of aromas, have the textures of crunch, chewiness and crispness, are as pleasing to look at as a still-life painting, and emit sounds when cooked or broken under a fork or chopsticks that are almost musical. In fact they are sometimes known as “singing crepes”. You eat them the same way as banh xeo, but you will always remember them as a different breed of cat.

Banh khot, generally associated with Vung Tau, is similar.

Think of it as an over-easy fried

Street, District 1. It’s just off Hai Ba Trung, about a block north of Le Van Tam Park.

Muoi Xiem is a popular banh xeo chain. They offer the widest variety of fillings.

One of their restaurants can be found at 204 Nguyen Trai Street, District 1.

Banh khoai, though a Hue specialty, is now available all over town. Try Dong Pho at 57 Ho Xuan Huong, District 3.

It’s just off Cach Mang Thang Tam, a couple of blocks north of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai.

Easy to find and with a festive atmosphere, Banh Khot Co Ba Vung Tau serves its signature dish at 258B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, District 3.

Yu Chu I always feel a bit out of place in the InterContinental hotel.

Between the sweaty guests getting off tour buses and the businessmen in pinstriped suits wandering the lobby, the hotel looks like it could be anywhere in the world. But all that changes on this hot afternoon as I enter Yu Chu, the hotel’s Chinese restaurant.

The dark hallways open up into a brightly lit dining area, and, unlike many Chinese restaurants the world over, there are no campy Asian designs here. Instead, French art deco provides a modern and sophisticated alternative, while the bay windows overlooking Hai Ba Trung Street keep everything sunny and warm.

Chinese food done right. By Chris Mueller.

Photos by Jonny Edbrooke.

Despite the restaurant’s chic look, the head chef tells me he strives for ancient, time-tested recipes from Hong Kong, Beijing and southern China. Yu Chu is already popular with the lunchtime crowd for its all-you-can-eat dim sum buffet (VND 498,000 or VND 598,000 with free-flow Tiger draught), but there is also a large, regular menu that many overlook in favour of the dumplings (which are very good). Prices range from below VND 100,000 for appetisers to VND 1,350,000 for braised shark fin.

Sticking to our morals while trying not to break the bank, we forgo the shark fin for some simpler options. Overall we try about five dishes, but one of

two that stands out is the clay pot of braised tofu (bean curd on the menu) with assorted seafood and mushrooms (VND 100,000). I’ve never been a fan of tofu because of its consistency, so the mixed seafood is a welcome distraction. The second memorable dish is the sweet and sour pork (VND 170,000). It sounds common enough, but the lightly fried and crunchy outside, soft and juicy inside, and super-sweet sauce combine for an odd but addictive product. We end the meal with a cool glass of mango soup with sago and pomelo (VND 79,000). Bright orange and similar to yogurt, this was a light ending to a filling lunch.

Yu Chu prides itself on being as authentic as possible, with its Cantonese chefs trained by experts from Hong Kong and throughout China. While I’m no authority on authentic Chinese food — this is actually only the second time I have tried it — everything at Yu Chu is so well thought out, from the layout of the restaurant to the side sauces and presentation, that I know I’m getting the real deal.

Corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 InterContinental hotel, 1st floor 08 35 20 99 99 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10pm, seven days Ihg.com asialife HCMC 43

The Loop Owner Eckart Dutz says The Loop is meant to be like a piece of home — which in his case is Germany. The compact, well-lit interior is fitted with slick European furniture, some of which you won’t find anywhere else in Vietnam. The floors, a mix of slate and wood, are spotless, emitting a sense of northern European efficiency in design.

This doesn’t mean the chairs aren’t comfortable though, and The Loop’s bistro-like atmosphere makes it a good place to spend an afternoon reading or working. There is outdoor seating as well, which will be nice once the wet season ends.

As for the food, local suppliers are used as much as possible, including Harvest 44 asialife HCMC

Comfortable European ambience and a health-conscious menu.

By Michael Tatarski. Photos by Fred Wissink.

Bakery and Pizza 4P’s. The menu focuses on healthy alternatives to the usual dishes found in restaurants here. The name The Loop is taken from the road that circles Thao Dien, a popular route for runners and cyclists. With its early opening hours the restaurant draws regular crowds of post-workout diners, and there is plenty to attract them.

The options, which will be expanded in the near future, include standard breakfast dishes as well as bagel sandwiches and smears (VND 25,000 to VND 140,000), paninis and sandwiches (VND 100,000 to VND 150,000), and salads (VND 100,000 to VND 220,000). There is a set business

lunch that changes every day, homemade desserts and a wide range of drink choices are also available. Coffee is a focal point at The Loop, and all of it is imported from Hausbrandt, an Italian company. Dutz says his is the first restaurant in the country to sell this coffee.

We sampled a variety of dishes, beginning with the chicken chipotle panini (VND 119,000), which includes tomato, bacon, cheddar and chipotle mayo served between bread from Harvest. Every bite delivered a satisfying crunch from the crispy bread, and the sauce provided an excellent spicy kick.

Next was the savoury combo (VND 119,000), a serving of

ham, Danish salami, parma ham and two slices each of dark and white bread. The meat was fresh and flavourful and the bread excellent. This would be a great dish to share with a friend.

Finally we split a Gravlax bagel (VND 139,000), a breakfast sandwich with egg, salmon, red onion and spicy dill smear. For a huge bagel fan this didn’t disappoint. If you are in need of good motivation for exercise, a post-workout meal at The Loop may be just what you’re looking for.

49 Thao Dien, D2 08 36 02 63 65 7am-9pm, seven days

Café de Paris The layout of Café de Paris is designed to accommodate every mood. The ground floor’s bistro-style seating is open to the street, while the first floor houses a cosy bar, a section of plush lounge seating, and a more formal white-tablecloth area. An open-air terrace tops the building off, giving diners the option to choose whatever ambience they may want.

Manager Tristan Haentjens explained that Café de Paris strives to set itself apart by making nearly everything in-house. The pastries and desserts, displayed in a glass case, are all homemade. Many of the dishes are family recipes brought over from the Brittany region of France.

Homemade French food for every mood. By Michael Tatarski. Photos by Lee Starns.

Emphasis is placed on quality and taste, and the French management spent three months training the head chef and baker.

Another objective is to make Café de Paris a family restaurant, where all of the customers are known and treated well.

The menu is extensive, covering breakfast, lunch and dinner. Breakfast options are around VND 100,000, while starters, salads and sandwiches range from VND 60,000 to VND 150,000. International mains such as beefsteak and chicken cordon bleu go for VND 130,000 to VND 200,000. Also available are special French dishes: crepes with cider and several varieties of quiches and tartes (VND 100,000), including quiche

Lorraine and tomato emmental.

Then there are the desserts: croissants, macaroons, éclairs, cakes and crème brulee (VND 35,000 to 100,000). Finally, fresh ice cream and wines by the bottle or glass from around the world are available.

We began by sampling several pastries, each of which was light and fresh. The fact that they are homemade certainly makes a difference.

The Parisien Plus (VND 98,000) packed ham, French butter and emmental cheese into a baguette, along with a side salad. The baguette made the sandwich, as it was thick and hearty, a welcome break from the usual airy, crispy baguettes one gets with a banh mi.

We finished with the Tomates Cherne (VND 110,000), a tart with tomatoes, goat and Swiss cheese and a side salad.

The tomatoes were fresh and flavourful, and both cheeses were excellent. This dish is one of Café de Paris’ specialities, and they know how to pull it off well.

At first, the pastries may seem like the only attraction, but at second glance you realise hours could easily be spent at this restaurant watching life pass by on the narrow, leafy and haphazard Ho Tung Mau. 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 7am – 11pm, Monday to Saturday 08 38 21 60 39 Cafeparissaigon.com asialife HCMC 45

Designer Thien Le cut his fashion teeth creating costumes for the Canadian Opera Company.

In 1999, he launched his own label, the first of more than half a dozen that now bear his name.

Since then, Thien Le has become synonymous with glamorous and elegant eveningwear and he is recognised as one of Canada’s premier designers. More at Thienle.com.

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Photographer: Doug McMillan Model: Mary Brisebois, Next Models Canada LEFT: Photographer: Lily and Lilac Model: Christine Ford, Models Toronto asialife HCMC 47

48 asialife HCMC

Photographer: Doug McMillan Model: Mary Brisebois, Next Models Canada LEFT TOP: Model: Kate Somers, Ford Models Toronto LEFT BOTTOM: Photographer: Marek Szkudlarek Model: Ford Model Toronto

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www.philippineairlines.com Operates daily service from HCM City to Manila, offering fare options through the PAL Econo Light Class.

listings

Royal Brunei Level 4, 129A Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3914 6868 www.bruneiair.com Royal Brunei provides scheduled service across Asia, the Middle East, United Kingdom, Australia and New Zealand.

hotel & travel AIRLINES

Air Asia 223 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9811 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.

Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.

Jetstar Pacific www.jetstar.com Budget branch flies into Can Tho, Danang, Hanoi, Hai Phong, HCM City, Hue, Nha Trang and Vinh and operates cheap flights from HCM City to Siem Reap and Bangkok. Check out Friday Fare Frenzy online promotion every Friday.

Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

Philippine Airways 229 Dong Khoi, D3 Tel: 3822 2241

escape

Thai Airways 65 Nguyen Du, Tel: 3829 2810 29 Le Duan, D1 www.thaiair.com Bangkok-based airline connects twice daily between the Thai capital and HCM City and Hanoi. Multiple daily flights are also operated from both to Phnom Penh and Phuket.

Turkish Airlines 8th floor, AB Tower 76A Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3936 03600 www.turkishairlines.com Awarded as the Best Airline in Europe offers the brand new Comfort Class to Economy class: 46inch leg room, personalised entertainment screen and globally awarded cuisine on-board.

VASCO Vietnam Airlines office, 116 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3842 2790 www.vasco.com.vn Though it’s primary business is cargo shipment, Vietnam Air Service Company (VASCO) flies daily from HCM City to Con Dao and makes connections to lesser-known cities like Ca Mau, Tuy Hoa and Chu Lai. Buy tickets at the Vietnam Airlines office.

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamair.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

CON DAO

If you’re in Nha Trang this month, pop in to the Novotel, which is marking the National Independence Day on 2 Sept with a buffet dinner. The VND 420,000 meal covers all three regions as well as BBQ seafood. Or celebrate the mid-autumn festival at The Square restaurant at the hotel 19 Sept. Adults pay the same price for a buffet, while children eat for half off and get a drawing kit and lantern. The in-house Vous Spa also has body massages for VND 490,000. Contact: 05 86 25 69 38.

Emeraude Classic Cruises is launching an exclusive overnight charter from $12,000 for party planners and corporate groups

50 asialife HCMC

Saigon Con Dao Resort 18-24 Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 155 www.saigoncondaoresort.com Opened in summer 2009, Saigon Tourist’s 82-room hotel has a restaurant, swimming pool, tennis court and health club with sauna. Another 30 villas are available in the adjacent sister hotel, a renovated colonial-era administration building. Tours organized by hotel.

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villas has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.

DALAT

Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Blue Moon Resort & Spa 4 Phan Boi Chau Tel: 06 3578 888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn An attractive 65-room, country-style resort with extensive gardens for strolling or al fresco dining, as well as restaurant serving local Dalat dishes. On-premise bike rental, fitness centre, sauna and indoor heated pool.

Mercure Dalat 7 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 777 www.mercure.com Built in 1932 as the Hotel Du Parc, this 144-room resort pairs French colonial architecture with modern amenities. Cafe De Le Poste serves French home-style,

international and Vietnamese cuisine.

Facilities include tennis court and sauna.

Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

HANOI

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Hanoi Hilton Opera 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Housed in a colonial-style building that complements the adjacent Opera House, this luxury hotel features modern amenities, business services, outdoor pool and fitness centre. Vietnamese specialties are served at Ba Mien, and Chez Manon does Japanese and pan-Asian.

Melia Hanoi Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 04 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Located in the city centre with 306 comfortable guestrooms elegantly decorated, complete with a host of modern amenities. Dining includes Asian cuisine at El Patio and El Oriental, snacks at Cava Lounge and tapas at Latino Bar. Mercure Hanoi La Gare 94 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 7766 www.accorhotels.com Situated in the Old Quarter with 102 bright, spacious and modern rooms, Brasserie Le Pavillion restaurant serves Vietnamese and international cuisine.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Beachside Dining

Old World Cruising

Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 949 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities and tours.

looking for an out-of-the-ordinary venue in Ha Long Bay. The all-white Emeraude vessel, with 34 cabins and three suites, was modelled on a historic paddle wheel steamer by the same name that plied the bay and Gulf of Tonkin from 1906 to 1937. Polished wooden floors, beadboard walls and brass fittings evoke colonial Indochina. Customisable itineraries and bespoke activities aboard the ship or in the bay are among the options, along with tai-chi and cooking classes, spa services, kayaking, film screenings and stopovers at the bay’s top attractions. Contact Brenda Ho at dosm@appletree-asia.com.

Live Like a King

The Imperial Hotel in Hue is offering its deluxe city-view room for two nights, plus

a welcome Asian set dinner and local beer, starting at VND 3 million. The deal includes airport transfer, international buffet breakfast, welcome drinks, flowers and a fruit platter. Valid through 31 Oct. Contact 0 54 38 82 22 2 or info@imperial-hotel.com.vn.

and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

Nikko Hotel 84 Tran Nhan Tong Tel: 04 3822 3535 www.hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn Luxury hotel offering spacious rooms, elegant furnishings, international fine dining from Europe, China and Japan.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com

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www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

HOI AN & DANANG Angsana Lang Co Tel: 84 54 3695 800 www.angsana.com Set beachfront on warm sands with a backdrop of the towering Truong Son Mountain Range, Angsana Lang Co is one of the region’s newest five-star resorts. Blessed with brilliant scenes of unspoiled natural beauty, Angsana Lang Co is a contemporary getaway featuring 229 stylish suites (from 52 sqm to 179 sqm), 100 of which come equipped with their own private pools. All suites in every room category feature picturesque mountain, lagoon, or sea views, and incorporate local materials such as bamboo, along with traditional arts with a contemporary twist, lanterns and elegant framed calligraph.

Banyan Tree Lang Co Tel: 84 54 3695 888 www.banyantree.com The resort is inspired by the artistic heritage of Vietnamese dynasties past, features 32 lagoon pool villas, 17 beach pool villas, an array of eclectic dining experiences from modern Thai cuisine to French specialties, 18-hole championship course designed by Sir Nick Faldo, delivers a golfing experience that can be enjoyed by skilled and novice players alike.

InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula Tel: 0511 093 8888 danang.intercontinental.com A world of poetic experiences and jungleclad romance in a place that cloaks you with luxury. The mastery of traditional

Vietnamese design meets modern architectural flair in this distinctive retreat within the dense rainforest of mythical Monkey Mountain.

HUE

Celadon Palace Hue 105A Hung Vuong Tel: 054 3936 666 www.celadonpalacehue.com Grand building inspired by Indochine Nobel House with panoramic views, international restaurant, lounge/bars, pool, ballroom and wedding planning.

La Residence 5 Le Loi Tel: 054 3837 475 www.la-residence-hue.com Former governor’s residence on the banks of the Perfume River is now home to a boutique resort where art deco meets Indochine. La Parfum restaurant serves local and international dishes. Facilitiesa include spa, saltwater pool, tennis court and fleet of bicycles.

Mercure Hue Gerbera 38 Le Loi Tel: 054 3946 688 www.mercure.com Overlooking the Perfume River, this centrally located hotel has 110 contemporary rooms. Local Hue cuisine and international fare served at Le Bordeaux, and drinks served up top at Sky Bar or in the ground-floor Lobby Bar. Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and villa accommodation draws on natural environment and local culture. Features Vedana spa, two restaurants serving Vietnamese & Western food and imported wines and three bar/lounges.

Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa 112 Minh Mang

Tel: 054 3830 240 www.vedanaresort.com Nestled on the shore of a peaceful and serene lagoon, vedana lagoon resort & spa is ideally situated between the two cities well-known as world heritage sites: hue and hoi an. The resort designed with a stylist harmony between the local traditional culture and a modern art concept with 27 villas, bungalows and 2 houseboats.

NHA TRANG

Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms divided into villas and condos, catering by wel-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito's bar.

Novotel Nha Trang 50 Tran Phu Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com Each of the 154 rooms has a terrace with seaviews in this modern hotel located in the city centre. The Square serves international cuisine in a dining room overlooking the bay.

Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa 26 - 28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang Luxury hotel with 284 ocean view rooms, six restaurants and bars, club lounge, infinity edge swimming pool, spa, yoga studio, cooking school, Sheraton Adventure Club and (connected at) Link@ Sheraton.

PHAN THIET Villa Aria Muine 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 062 3741 660 www.villaariamuine.com Villa Aria Muine is a boutique beach resort in Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan province. Set on a beautiful beachfront in the middle of the Mui Ne strip, the villa combines modern tropical style and French country luxury.

Princess D’Ânnam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan. Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000

www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort.

SAPA

Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace. Connection from Hanoi by private train.

SCUBA DIVING

Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s.

Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co. with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services.

VUNG TAU

The Grand-Ho Tram Strip Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc District, Ba Ria Vung Tau Tel: +84 64 3788 888 www.thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam's first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include an 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. The first 541-room tower of this development opened in July 2013 with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room tower is on track to open in 2015. The Grand will be the initial component of The Ho Tram Strip, the largest integrated resort complex in Vietnam.

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TRAVEL AGENTS

Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District Tel: 04 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com Tailor-made itineraries, communitybased tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com SD5-2 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 2761/62 pmh@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specializing in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

SERVICED APARTMENTS & COMMERCIAL SPACE FOR LEASE Suitable for office, spa and beauty salon.

Hotline: 0918 802526 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong Street, District 1, HCMC T: (84-8) 3822 6111 Ext.101 F: (84-8) 3824 1835 E: sales@norfolkmansion.com.vn W: www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Managed by Norfolk Group

asialife HCMC 53

environment with frequent live music.

Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

listings

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

food & drink

9am until 9pm). This, its international food menu and nightly live music makes it one of the liveliest bars around.

Sheridan's Irish House 24 Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8 am.

fortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere. 

The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends. 

Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France. Long happy hour half price by glass. Various shisha flavours.

Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue. Also does excellent pizza. 

CAFES

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00.

Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND.

Chilli Pub 104 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 73 01 13 77 An intimate pub on a popular bar street that serves pub grub and its famous bowls of chilli. It also has a pool table, dart boards and TVs for watching sports.

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia. Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure. Relaxed

Red Bar 70-72 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 08 22 29 70 17 Tucked behind the Bitexco building, Red has one of the longest happy hours in the city (draught beer for VND 25,000 from

BAR RESTAURANTS Alibi 11 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 3240 Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes.

Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains.

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise. 

feast

Park Hyatt Saigon's martini bar, 2 Lam Son (also the address), has a new nightly lineup. Tuesday is Industry Night, when those who present a business card get buy-one-get-one bottles of Belvedere from 8pm. Wednesday is buy-one-get-one bottles of Glenmorangie for men, while Thursday offers buy-one-get-one cocktails for women. A resident DJ spins on Fridays and Saturdays from 9pm. Whatever day of the week it is, birthday guests drink free and happy hour features half off drinks and snacks from 5-8pm.

New World Saigon Hotel’s pastry chefs are ringing in the mid-autumn festivities with a selection of moon cakes. Whether for personal consumption or as a gift to clients or friends, the cakes come in newly designed

54 asialife HCMC

Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and com-

CHINESE

Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong. The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet includes free flow of wine.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa

broaden your palate with promotions around town

Bogo

Have Your Cake

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea. 

X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.

Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream.

versatile boxes that can double up as wine carrier cases. The hotel suggests making use of the boxes’ many compartments to store jewellry, cosmetics or other small items. Saigon Bakery’s moon cakes start at VND 780,000 for a box of eight, though discounts for large purchases go up to 15 percent off. Free delivery in Districts 1 and 3 for orders of 50 boxes plus. The hotel can be reached at 08 38 29 40 00, ext. 2128, saigon@newworldhotels.com, or 76 Le Lai Street, D1.

And More Cake

The Opera Cake is made of three layers of almond biscuit, chocolate ganache and coffee buttercream. From 7-13 Sept, chefs at The Caravelle’s Lobby Lounge are serving up slices of this dessert, first perfected by Paris’ famous Dalloyau Patisserie, for VND 120,000. Also at the hotel will be the 2 Sept

Vietnamese National Day Buffet Dinner.

Food from all over the country will be on offer, including fresh seafood, escargot and steamed whole fish in banana leaf. Cost is VND 1,013,000. The hotel address is 19-23 Lam Son Square.

street gourmet

Dua Tac Look no further than a cold glass of dua tac the next time you need to quench your thirst. While the main ingredients are coconut juice and large pieces of coconut, there's also a generous amount of kumquat juice, giving the drink its distinctive flavour.

Sugar adds an extra kick,

duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

FRENCH

Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior. Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, pan-fried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

Camargue 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 08 35 20 48 88 One of the first western restaurants in Saigon, Camargue offers a great

but don't fight it — what Vietnamese drink would be complete without a little duong? Dua tac is served up with lots of ice, making it a great choice for the summer months. A glass of this sweet concoction will run you about VND 4,000/glass, VND 5,000 for take-away.

selection of French food and wine in a romantic, rustic French villa.

Le Bouchon de Saigon 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 9263 This French diner-style restaurant has an emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous service and a relaxed atmosphere. Chef David Thai is a well-known industry figure, and this venue can hold its own among the city`s many French restaurants.

L’essentiel 98 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 38 21 76 82 A French restaurant offering a traditional menu that changes every week in a rotation of four. Dishes range from around VND 100,000 upwards to nearly VND 400,000 and include a variety of meat and seafood options. Cheese and pastries are available as well.

Le Steak de Saigon 15 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 38 22 45 93 On one of the fancier streets in the centre of District 1, this small steakhouse has limited options, but its set meal, which includes a steak, salad and fries or mashed potatoes for only VND 200,000, is probably one of the better deals in town.

INDIAN

Ganesh 15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 3017 Casual dining with takeaway available, Ganesh serves up both North and South Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably priced, with vegetarian curries from 40,000 VND and chicken dishes from 64,000 VND.  Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

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imbibe

street gourmet

New Zealand, New World Treasures

By Darryl Bethea In the world of wine, there are wines that identify a style, an icon and a standard. And no other wine defines a country or region more than Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough New Zealand, the standard for New World Sauvignon Blanc. With its distinctive aroma descriptions of gooseberry, citrus, herbs, and often “cat piss”, it is a fruit forward masterpiece, so different that it’s an easy one to identify in blind tastings.

But is New Zealand a onewine country?

While Sauvignon Blanc makes up about 50 percent of the total vines in the country, other varieties can still be found. The famous Marlborough is one of two of the largest winemaking regions in New Zealand. Hawke’s Bay, where you will find Merlot, is the other.

The second biggest vine planting variety in New Zealand is Pinot Noir, followed by Chardonnay, with Merlot rounding out the popular varietals.

What makes New Zealand stand out as a winemaking country is its location and land. It’s isolated, at more than 2,000km east of Australia and 2,500km north of Antarctica.

It also has a special maritime cool climate. This results in a longer growing season with a long, slow period of ripening, which gives the wines great acidity, and a strong concentration of fruit flavours. The soil is known as ancient alluvial: soils that have developed over thousands of years of erosion, mountain building, winds and floods, giving them a highmineral content yet a moder-

56 asialife HCMC

ately low fertility. The results are vines that struggle and must grow deep to seek nutrients and water. These natural challenges produce grapes that are intensely full flavoured. It is a well-known fact that stressed vines produce some of the best premium wines.

So if you like full-flavored, dark-fruit wines, look for Hawke’s Bay region on the label. Merlot is a popular varietal and done very well. In fact, the number one selling Merlot in the United Kingdom is from New Zealand.

The Marlborough region is, of course, the home of great Sauvignon Blanc, but also Chardonnay as well as Pinot Noir. The number one Pinot Noir sold in Australia is produced by a New Zealand winery.

Central Otago is the most inland region of New Zealand on the south island. Here you will find a diverse landscape with snow-capped mountains, rocky, rugged land, deep gorges, and clear blue rivers that all help produce great wines. In this region, look for Rieslings, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir.

Here are some of the wineries worth checking out, listed by region. Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough regions: Oyster Bay, Nautilus, and Dog Point Vineyards. Central Otago region: Wooing Tree, Felton Road, Misha’s Vineyard, and Amisfield Wine Company.

Darryl Bethea is group sales manager for Magnum Wine Cellars. He can be contacted at darryl@magnumwinecellars. com or 09 33 78 50 05.

Banh He Banh he just may be the oiliest street food around — and that's all the more reason to try it. The shell is made from wheat starch and the filling can be pork, minced shrimp or egg, neatly stuffed between heaps of chives and a bit of shredded papaya.

The mixture is deep-fried until the wheat starch

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu.

Cater service is available.  Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL

Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favou-

gets somewhat crispy, although the grease keeps it mostly soggy. Banh he originated in Quang Ngai province in central Vietnam, but up in those parts, the only ingredients used are rice flour and chives. Either version can get rather messy, so don't eat it on the run. A serving costs VND 6,000.

rite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Blanchy's Tash 93 - 95 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.blanchystash.com A high-end bar and restaurant with outdoor terrace. With ex-Nobu London Chef at the helm, Blanchy’s offers tapaslike snacks that fuse Japanese and South American influences. Expect great things here from international DJs and renowned mixologists Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Boomarang Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790 An Australian bistro on the scenic promenade at the Crescent in Phu My Hung that serves authentic cuisine from down under, including steaks, burgers, seafood and fish and chips.

Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

El Gaucho 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3825 1879 Cresent Residence 1_12, No. 103 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 A classic Argentine steakhouse where beef is the main attraction. There is still plenty of other options on the menu, in addition to an extensive wine list. Open from 4pm until late every day.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy.  Halal@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 www.halalsaigon.com Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.

Hog's Breath 02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006 The popular Australian eatery's first foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on the ground floor of the Bitexco Financial tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks are the centrpiece of the menu which

also includes burgers, seafood and bar snacks.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  JJ’s Brazilian BBQ Restaurant and Bar 275-277-279 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 08 38 38 88 33 Situated in Pham Ngu Lao, JJ’s offers traditional Brazilian churrasco every night, with a wide range of meats barbecued over a charcoal flame. The restaurant is split into three areas: the bar, an outside terrace overlooking the park, and a more formal upstairs dining room.

Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Set dinner everyday from 5pm.  Koto 151A Hai Ba Trung, D3, Tel: 3934 9151 This is the Saigon arm of the renowned organisation that began in Hanoi a decade ago. Vietnamese food is prepared with innovative twist by young people Koto are helping get a start in the hospitality industry and on a path for a better life.  The Loop 49 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 08 36 02 63 85 A contemporarily styled restaurant that serves the An Phu community some healthy trattoria-style dishes, refreshing drinks and premium Italian coffee. The menu includes homemade breakfast specialties, and a wide selection of sandwiches and salads.

Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  New York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373 New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.

Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Scott & Binh’s 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat Street, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 094 890 14 65 Bizuhotel.com A friendly, laid back restaurant in Phu My Hung that serves “comfort food with a twist”. Run by American chef Scott Marquis, this small joint offers classic favourites that are consistently well prepared, making it a popular stop for expats and visitors.

Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or five-course set menu available.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.  Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and

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Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal.

Xu Saigon 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com Inspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, the restaurant serves nouveau takes on Vietnamese cuisine.

ITALIAN Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Woodfired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafoodd dishes. Open daily 10 am until late.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza.  Lucca 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 39 15 36 92 A centrally located trattoria, café and bar that gets lively at lunchtime but has space enough for a mellow meal.

Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare.

Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

JAPANESE

Chiisana Hashi River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves authentic Japanese cuisuine including sashimi, sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu.

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi

crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

local eats

Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com A Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere.

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request.  Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782 Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes.

The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

Dried Squid With a Side of Chicken Feet

By Tristan Ngo I stumbled on this eatery near The Elbow Room the other day. Dimly lit fluorescent lights, rows of small metal tables, and a worn-out sign hanging out front are the restaurant’s only amenities. The place was full of local diners, and the scene beckoned me inside.

Chao Muc 10 at 10 Pho Duc Chinh near Nguyen Cong Tru Street is actually a well-known and popular place. As food prices in Vietnam continue to rise, this type of inexpensive restaurant is becoming increasingly harder to find in District 1. But Chao Muc 10 is still going strong.

Chao muc (squid porridge) and banh canh are the specialties here. Banh canh is a Vietnamese-style noodle thickened with tapioca or a combination of rice and tapioca flour. There are many versions, but this simpler one is served in a rich pork broth with shallots, salt, pepper, sugar and fish sauce.

The porridge here is made with dried squid. The salty dried squid enhances the flavour and becomes tender after cooking for hours in the

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porridge pot. If you've ever tried the chewy dried squid sold on the streets you'll understand what this dish is like.

The bowl of porridge comes with congealed blood, bean sprouts, and green onions.

Make sure to add a century egg (Chinese-influenced preserved egg) to your bowl, some fresh chopped chilli and a squeeze of lime. The porridge is served with a bowl of gio chao quay (a breadstick also known as youtiao, a type of Chinese doughnut or cruller) cut up in bite-size pieces.

Diners here also tend to gnaw away at pork knuckles and chicken feet, ordering them on the side. So if you're feeling experimental then do what the locals do. You can also order chicken wings, drumsticks or century eggs on the side. This is about as Vietnamese as you're gonna get. Chuc ngon mieng!

10 Chao Muc 10 Pho Duc Chinh Street, D1 08 38 29 44 14 6.30am-9pm daily Prices: VND 15,000 to VND 40,000

KOREAN

25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant. Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery.

Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi.

Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN

Barbecue Garden 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street, D1 Tel: (08) 38 23 33 40 Barbecuegarden.com Popular among locals, expats and tourists, this Vietnamese-style barbecue restaurant serves a wide-range of meat and seafood that can be grilled right at the table, all in a lush, natural outdoor setting.

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street. Serves a range of dishes from the

Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

VEGETARIAN

An Lac Chay 175/4 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 3837 0760 Apropos of the backpacker district, this little restaurant offers no frills and a vast menu. Though meat dishes are available, it specializes in vegetarian Vietnamese and quirky “backpacker favourites.”  Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Saigon Vegan 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473 Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices.

Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/ beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu.

Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light.

Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE

Banian Tree River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 – 0903 669 252 A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant that serves authentic cuisine.

Offers a set lunch, set dinner, International breakfast is served from 6.30 am - 10.30 am.

Blue Crab 49D Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2008 This seafood restaurant has some of the most well-prepared and cheapest seafood in town. Its menu offers everything from prawns, scallops and lobster to pork ribs and crab, all for rock-bottom prices.

Cha Ca Viet Nam River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves Hanoi specialty Cha Ca—turmeric grilled fish with noodles and dill.

Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired by Euro-Zen. Quan Bui 17A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 08 38 29 15 15 From the team behind Quan Bui, the popular casual Vietnamese eatery on the north edge of District 1, is this four-floor fine-dining restaurant in downtown Saigon. The chic design and ambience, as well as its rooftop garden, are designed to attract a more up-market clientele.

Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food. Mains go around 80,000 -150,000.

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES

See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

Cloud 9 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3, HCMC (Corner of Turtle Lake Roundabout & Tran Cao Van), Tel: 0948 445544 Recently opened with beautiful déco, this rooftop lounge bar has its stunning views at night. Live DJ, great cocktails and desserts. Open 6pm till late.  The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

The Wine Embassy 13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: (84) 838-247827 www.wineembassy.com.vn Wine bar in district located in district 1 with excellent selection of wines, with signature trios for sampling and comparing. With experts on hand this is a great experience to experience wines at there best.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens.

Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.

at home BAKERIES

Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery. Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more. Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066

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Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

DELIVERY

Food Panda www.foodpanda.vn Online delivery service with over 500 popular restaurants available. www.vietnammm.com A free website that allows users to order delivery from dozens of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City.

Simply provide your address and phone number and pay the delivery driver in cash when he arrives Willy Woo’s www.vietnammm.com Southern American fare including skillet fried chicken, Belgium waffles and BBQ foods, red beans and rice, Jalapeno corn bread, and other classic southern sides.

Delivery only via vietnammm.com

GROCERIES

Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor.

Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Kim Hai Butchery 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE

The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

Wine Embassy 13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 08 38 24 78 27 With more than 30 wines by the glass and 100 vintages from all over the world, Wine Embassy offers an excellent place to discover wines in a relaxing and entertaining atmosphere. The resident sommelier and knowledgeable staff can also provide information on each type, perfect for neophytes and experts alike.

listings

culture CLASSES

AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available.

Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to

learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS

Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7

Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas. me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions. Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

GALLERIES

a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

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listings

sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

CRICKET Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA

AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

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California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

fitness

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered.

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Star Fitness Gym Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 This 1,600sqm gym is apparently the biggest in Vietnam. Has a good range of machines for any type of workout.

Membership involves one time entry fee plus monthly subscriptions and gives free access to regular fitness classes.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza Fitness Centre 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Small but well-equipped gym with helpful staff and quality equipment. Also runs a number of fitness classes including yoga.

Park Hyatt Fitness Centre 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Luxury health centre with the full range of facilities including swimming pool, steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre.

Renaissance Hotel Health Club 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1

Four Questions for Fat Loss

By Phil Kelly The key to successful fat loss and health is not related to how much you know, but your ability to change actions. I find most people know the basics and can choose between a healthy and an unhealthy meal. It doesn’t need to be complicated if someone is in good health, with a properly functioning metabolism and no hormonal imbalances.

One of the best methods for making positive choices is to start by asking yourself a range of simple questions before every meal. These questions reveal whether the food will aid you in achieving your goal, which makes it easy to decide if you should consume it.

The following questions are a good place to start: Am I eating real food?

This is the most important question. All calories are not created equal. If you eat the wrong food you can play havoc with your hormones.

The “cleaner” you eat the better your body will function and can deal with calories and metabolise fat. Reduce all processed foods and limit anything that has been altered from its original state.

Does my meal contain enough protein?

Your protein intake determines whether you’re going to lose body fat or lean muscle. Is there enough lean protein in your meal?

How much sugar or starch does my meal contain?

Too much starch and sugar in

your diet can prevent fat loss or cause fat gain. Sugar can stop your body from feeling full by stopping the hormone leptin from working. Leptin is responsible for signalling to the brain that you are full. Hence meals high in sugar or starch are full of empty calories and regularly result in overeating.

Before your next meal, ask yourself if there is too much starch, particularly processed ones like bread or pasta.

Am I eating enough vegetables?

The colours of vegetables are derived from a variety of antioxidants, almost exclusively found in plants. Only a small amount of antioxidants are present in animal-based foods. Plants produce them to fight free radicals (compounds that destroy healthy cells).

Since we do not naturally build shields to protect ourselves against free radicals, we need to eat plants to borrow their antioxidant shields.

By replacing your grains with greens, you’ll still feel satisfied at the end of a meal while also increasing your intake of fibre and other important vitamins/minerals. Again, portion size is important, but keep this question in mind: When was the last time you heard of someone getting fat from eating good-quality vegetables?

Phil is an expert in body transformation. His services are available at Star Fitness (Starfitnesssaigon.com), online or at your home. Contact him at Phil-kelly.com.

Tel: 3822 0033 Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour, pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city.

Saigon Fitness Club New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is staffed by highly-qualified instructors to cater for your fitness needs. Features a swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf driving range, jogging track, sauna, and massage rooms.

Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 info@saigonyoga.com www.saigonyoga.com A yoga centre with highly qualified instructors offering hot yoga, Hatha Flow, restorative yoga, kids’ yoga, pre and postnatal yoga and injury rehabilitation.

Also does corporate team building and yoga teacher training as well as organising yoga retreats.

SaigonSports Academy League Tel: 093 215 3502 greg@saigonsportsacademy.com www.saigonsportsacademy.com 12-week, 5 a side community football league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and expat teams compete in adult division with cash prize for champions.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF

Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees. Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009-yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com

DANCE FOR ALL . NÀO TA CÙNG DANCE

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISURE

TAP BALLET JAZZ CONTEMPORARY (08)

HIP HOP BELLY DANCE ZUMBA

3 519 4490

53 Nguy‘n ß®ng Giai, Th∂o ßi“n, QuÀn 2, TP. HCM info@dancentervn.com dancentervn.com

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building.

Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

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listings

local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

health & beauty

Tu Xuong Dental Clinic 51A Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 2049/050 drhung01@yahoo.com www.nhakhoatuxuong.com Provides general and cosmetic dental services at reasonable prices. Specialises in implants, orthodontic treatments and making crowns and bridges. Staff are professional and speak English.

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE American Chiropractic Clinic 8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treats back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment Theta Healing – Jodie Eastwood Tel: 091 859 1933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified practitioner based in HCM City.

COSMETIC TREATMENT Cao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic 135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3923 4419 A modern clinic offering a comprehensive range of optical services. Specializes in LASIK correctional procedures. English spoken. Open seven days a week.

FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery 45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 6167 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com International-standard cosmetic procedures from simple dermabrasion and chemical peels to collagen injections, nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and breast enhancement. Procedures carried out by French and Vietnamese doctors using the latest equipment.

Parkway Shenton International Clinic Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics clinic offers a range of both surgical and non-surgical treatments including dental reconstruction.

DENTAL European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien,

Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 doe.linh@gmail.com With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign &

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Westcoast International Dental Clinic 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1 Tel: 3825 6999 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 6777 info@westcoastinternational.com www.westcoastinternational.com Canadian-run dental clinic staffed by French, Japanese, English and Vietnamese speaking dental professionals.

HAIR & SALON

Anthony George for London Hair & Beauty FIDECO Riverview Building 14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475 www.aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist George brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. The modern, stylish and professional salon is host to a staff of professionally trained beauty therapists. Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal products.

Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio The Manor 1, 1st floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh Street, Binh Thanh District Tel: 09 08 42 20 07 International celebrity stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years, working with celebrities around the world, and brings his experience to this top-notch salon.

Qi Spa 151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719 Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150 Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437 High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments on offer.

Souche 2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 A top-end beauty salon using the Dermatologica line of skincare products.

Specialises in personalized facial care treatments and medicated acne treatments. Waxing and other aesthetic services are also available in a pleasant atmosphere with excellent service.

Sunji Matsuo Hair Studio Saigon Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5416 0378 Celebrity hairstylist Sunji Matsuo’s Singapore-based hair salon has a variety of hair services including scalp treatments, rebonding and hair extensions.

checks, X-ray, full laboratory and in-house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, paediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedic and dermatology.

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses.

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 95 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2000 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

HANH PHUC International Hospital Binh Duong boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong.

Tel: 0650 3636068 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a comprehensive range of quality healthcare services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer, Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving from HCMC. HANH PHUC International Hospital Clinic 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1. Tel: 3925 9797 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive range of services specializing in Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics, Immunization, General Practice and Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm.

MEDICAL

Human Medicine – International Clinic (HMIC) 601B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 Tel: 6264 6957 http://humanmedicineclinic.com Providing a state of the art health-care solution to prevent, diagnose and treat a variety of medical conditions. HMIC is dedicated to give a family-centered care with talented team of healthcare professionals, technology and customer-friendly environment. The modern clinic hosts a range of highly trained and experienced medical specialists and managed by Western-trained doctors.

Australian Clinic & Pathology Diagnostics (ACPD) 273-275 Ly Thai To, D10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services include general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa health-

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

The Salon 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6394 Reliable haircuts from well-trained stylists at this local salon with multiple locations.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

NAILS

OPI 253 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 International brand of nail care offering a variety of treatments from standard manicures at 50,000 VND to the whole host nail services such as acrylics, powder gell, cuticle treatments and French polishing.

SKINCARE

Avon 186A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3930 4018 HCMC branch of the world’s largest direct seller of cosmetics occupies the ground floor of District 3 villa, selling brand names like Anew, Skin-So-Soft and Avon Natural.

The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 31 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3926 0336 www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

Dermalogica Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 www.dermalogica.com U.S. brand of cleansers popular among skin care professionals. The line of toners, exfoliants, moisturizers and masques are engineered by skin therapists to be free of common irritants, and the company is categorically opposed to animal testing.

L’Apothiquaire 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Parkson Saigon Tourist Plaza Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 64A Truong Dinh, D3 07 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3932 5181/3932 5082 www.lapothiquaire.com info@lapothiquaire.com French-made natural products for all types of skin. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from Erbario Toscano.

L’Occitane en Provence New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 French cosmetics company with a 30year history offering a range of bath and massage oils, essential oils, body and hand care products are especially well known. Also has outlets in all the major downtown shopping malls.

Marianna Medical Laser Skincare 149A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel:3526 4635 www.en.marianna.com.vn Professional Laser Clinic in Ho Chi Minh City, Marianna owns the excellent experts in Aesthetic Medicine and the modern technologies such as Laser, Botox, Filler and all solutions can help you more beautiful and younger day by day.

listings

family ACTIVITIES DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Briar Jacques bjacques123@gmail.com Cel: 0122 480 8792 Helping families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address issues such as expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. We take a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on mental, emotional and physical levels.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

BABY EQUIPMENT

Belli Blossom 4F-04 (4th Floor) Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 7574 12 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3822 6615 www.belliblossom.com.vn contactus@belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom catering to moms and babies with imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags, and many others.

Brands available include: Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends, Gingersnaps.

Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

CLOTHES

Debenhams Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to 12 years old) imported brand from UK. High to mid-range prices.

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

EDUCATION

ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities.

ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. International curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

The Australian International School Xi Campus (Kindergarten) 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 35192727 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Primary School) 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Middle & Senior School) 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) An Phu ward, D2 Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with 3 class campuses in District 2, HCMC, offering an interna-

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kids corner

Party Time

By Gemma Mullen Children’s birthday parties — you either love them or loathe them. But you can be sure your little one is going to be expecting “the biggest, most amazingest party ever!” No pressure, then.

In my opinion, it’s a good idea to keep a child’s party fairly simple. There really isn’t any need to throw a bonanza with clowns, bouncy castles and pony rides. But you do need to plan the party well.

What’s the theme? How many kids will there be? Do you need games? Where will it take place?

There’s nothing wrong with having a party at home, but you could also make use of a park, a child-friendly restaurant or a fun location.

If your little one is of school age, there’s going to be a guest list. Rushing around for a last-minute present because of a late invitation can be quite stressful, so keep other parents in mind by sending out invitations at least a week ahead of time.

When choosing the invitations, consider getting your little one to make them. It saves money and gets your child involved. Even a simple handprint on some coloured card, along with the party details, will suffice and also makes a nice keepsake for the guests.

The party schedule will depend greatly on the ages of the children invited. Two or three hours is usually more than enough for children aged up

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to five — you don’t want them getting bored and restless.

Of course, older children can help plan their party and make their own list of things they want to do with their guests. Ideas such as sleepovers or going swimming are ideal. Younger children may need some help with this. Having some ready-to-go activities up your sleeve, such as blowing bubbles, will be useful in the event of a lull in the pandemonium.

Dos and don’ts • Do try to keep party food relatively healthy, as 20 children on a sugar rush is never much fun to deal with.

• Do give out party bags at the end. Children always enjoy taking something away from a party to remember it by.

• Do use the day as an opportunity to meet other parents and make new friends yourself.

• Don’t stress out if the kids are making lots of noise and mess. Remember, they are children; this is what they do and it is only for one day.

• Don’t be embarrassed to ask for help from other mums, dads or carers. Nobody expects you to do it all on your own.

Gemma Mullen has been working in child care for more than 10 years. She holds an NNEB diploma in nursery nursing and is currently a creative writing teacher at Zaman International School in Phnom Penh.

tional education from Kindergarten to Senior School with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programe (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

work of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam operating from three purpose built campuses in HCMC catering for students from pre-school to Year 13. The school operates within the framework of the National Curriculum for England and is staffed primarily by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Students are prepared for both IGCSE & the IB Diploma programmes.

BIS is a member of FOBISSEA & is fully accredited by the Council of International schools

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

ERC 86-88-92 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn ERC Vietnam is a member of ERCI Singapore. Founded by a group of successful business leaders around Asia Pacific. Our primary objective is to groom and mentor a new generation of business leaders in Vietnam equipped with skills to analyze and solve real-world business challenges of today.

German International School 730F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien Tel: 7300 7257 www.gis.vn A German International School offers a unique bilingual German-English programme for students from 2-16yrs.

Its curriculum is based on international recognised Primary Years Programmes, Middle Years Programmes and IB Diploma Programmes of the International Baccalaureate (IB) System.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School.

Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

KinderStar Kindergarten 08 Dang Dai Do, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5411 8118/9 Offering bilingual preschool program with capacity up to 900 students with the most updated international standard.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/ extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the frame-

SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 26 Street 10, D2 Tel: 3898 9816 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC.

ENTERTAINMENT

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

Toyville Tel: 09 18 33 97 34 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 Wide selection of branded toys and games, from the usual suspects to the real hard to find. Specialises in products for 3- to 10-year-old children.

PARTIES

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of handmade fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more.

The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes.

The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.

law of the land

listings

living

An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS BUSINESS GROUPS AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com

Vietnam, Inc: How To Set Up a Foreign-Owned Company

By Matthew F Sipprell The establishment of a foreign-owned corporation in Vietnam is a fairly laborious and time-consuming process. There are no forms to fill out and no guarantee the government will approve one’s application for an investment certificate (IC). Instead, you compile an application file in which you argue your case to the local Department of Planning and Investment (DPI) that you are equipped financially and logistically to operate the company. The IC takes on the look and feel of the proposed project. If there’s no project or marketing plan, or not enough capitalisation, the application will be refused. The following is a case study of an application my office is handling: The client, a German citizen based in Hong Kong, wants to start a business based in Ho Chi Minh City to distribute food supplements. The client will incorporate as a two-member limited liability company in which the members are both corporations in the food supplement business, one in Hong Kong and the other in Thailand. Their prior experience in the field, together with the Vietnam marketing plan elaborated in the application file, is important for the success of the application. So is the appointment of the Vietnam-based legal representative and general director (South Korean), the office lease contract, the raw material supply con-

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tract, and the packaging and warehousing contracts — all with established Vietnamese corporations.

Equally vital is the amount of charter capital the company will use to organise. For a national trading company, the amount is significant, in this case $200,000. The client hopes that will be enough to convince the DPI that the business will be able to carry out its objectives, as well as have staying power in a competitive market. Cash equal to the charter capital will have to be transferred from overseas into the new company’s foreigninvested account within the timeframe stated in the application after incorporation.

Because the new company will be a commercial trading company, the Ministry of Investment and Trade (MOIT) in Hanoi will also review the application. If the DPI and MOIT give the go-ahead, the People’s Committee of HCMC will issue the IC. It is also helpful to have good relations with key people in each of the government agencies mentioned, so the application is prioritised.

If all goes well, the IC should be issued within three or four months of submission.

If you have any questions about law in Vietnam you'd like covered here, email sipprell@hotmail.com Matthew F Sipprell is a partner at Pan Asia Consultants.

AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citi Bank 115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corpo-rate. Services include Corporate and Investment Banking, Global Transaction Services, and Consumer Banking.

In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1

Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff.

Honours Apple service plans.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services.

Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING

Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers Asia Ltd. 4th floor, 04 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3822 4728 www.embers-asia.com As the first team building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in making teams better in globally competitive markets. Embers' HR performance management services include: team building excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1

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Check us out on your computer, tablet or smart phone • Updated with news • Listings with links to google map • Features • Video Reviews

www.asialifemagazine.com

4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

finance

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Investing in Others

By Paul McLardie Investing isn’t just about stocks and shares and buying low and selling high. It’s also about the thoughtful spending of your hard-earned money, sometimes in less obvious ways. Giving to charity is one great way to do this, as long as you are certain the charity is legitimate and doing what it is supposed to. For whatever reason you decide to donate — whether it is for lowering your tax bill in your home country, making a difference in your adopted home or just repenting for past sins — make sure you choose the right charity for you.

Many of us have heard we should not give directly to street children or beggars since the money often goes to their controllers rather than to the people who need it most.

So when I talk about giving to charities, I mean the larger organisations and NGOs here and abroad.

If you are thinking about giving back, the first thing to do is look into what the charity does and see if it matches your aim. Check its website, talk to people about the work it does, and speak to the organisers and administrators. You should even consider spending some time as a volunteer before donating any cash.

The next thing to find out is if your money is going to be spent wisely. No one should

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be surprised that administering a charity costs money.

For example, for every $1 donated to the American Cancer Society, 9.8 cents goes towards administrative costs and another 21.8 cents goes to marketing. So, for every $1 donated, only 70 cents goes to the actual charity. Every organisation has its operating costs.

Paul Finnis, director of Saigon Children’s Charity, agrees a charity or NGO has to be transparent and honest with their costs. “When you see the effort [that people put in], I think it is absolutely right that an organisation responds by ensuring it spends the money as wisely as possible,” he says. “It is important an organisation constantly examines its costs and always ensures it offers great value for money for the work that it does and the support that it receives.”

If you want to know more about the finances of the organisation, ask. If it can’t give you the information you want or show you where it is available online, you really need to take a look at the openness of the charity and even reconsider donating.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management.

You can contact him at paul. mclardie@t-wm.com.

Kiko Flame OIIC Building, 248-250 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 0902 636 950 www.ngonluakiko.com Recently established graphic design studio employing highly skilled, well disciplined artists, graphic designers and web developers. We specialize in creative design for print media and web, offering you reliable and very affordable design services.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR

Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters,

brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals.

Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags.

Unity 12 Dang Tran Con, D1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com www.facebook.com/unitycompany Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection to give your home a sense of Unity.

ELECTRONICS

Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE

Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

LINH‘S WHITE

37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made

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people matter

furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications.

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

INSURANCE

Don't Be Greedy

By Gary Woollacott Two years ago I highlighted the importance of being gracious in business and not forcing a deal that disadvantages the people on the other side. Recently I received a stark reminder of how essential that can be.

We had been negotiating with a candidate for weeks, trying to secure her. She was good, the client liked her and her negotiations had been persuasive. But in the final stages — when we were discussing title, start date and, most importantly, salary — she suddenly decided to ask for more money. This is common, but the trouble was that she brought in numerology. It was unlucky to have a salary beginning with a seven, therefore she wanted $8,000 instead of the agreed upon $7,000. Ouch! She insisted we present this to our client (against our better judgment).

Not surprisingly, the next day we received an email from the client saying numerology and superstition had no place within his (western) company and they were withdrawing the offer. Our client added, “We want her skillset, not her mindset.”

Disappointed doesn't begin to cover it. We had worked on that assignment for months, read dozens of resumes and interviewed many candidates, only to see our hard work disappear. I had half expected it,

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but it was still a crushing blow.

I tried to tell myself the candidate could have flaked out at any time; she had been cagey from the beginning. Perhaps this was better than accepting the offer, and then using it to get a better one. But I kept coming back to the fact that I should have stopped it the moment I heard that numerology was being introduced as a justification. I should have taken over the negotiation and told her to stop saying ridiculous things that have no place in business. We found out the hard way what our client thought.

After a long talk with her to explain why the client was reversing course, I was filled with regret that I hadn't stepped in earlier to prevent her from displaying her avarice (and naiveté) to the client.

She actually seemed rather sensible but, on this occasion, she had let her greed run away with her. Lesson learned by all involved. It won't be happening again.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net.

Opus is a partner of Horton International.

Blue Cross Vietnam 8th floor, River View Tower, 7A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3821 9908 www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years' experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Our reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means we are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance please contact us for a free quote.

LEGAL

Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign

investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

MOTORBIKES

Automotive Street Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast Services include mending motorbike seats and sound system installation.

Products range from zebra print motorbike seat covers to car and motorbike tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and sound systems by Xplode.

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Options for kids.

Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon. Shops selling authentic Zeus helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai near Ben Thanh Market.

REAL ESTATE

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

HousingInteractive www.housinginteractive.com Offering an easy-to-use, comprehensive website that only lists authentic apartments and villas throughout Ho Chi Minh City. The website empowers users to make specific searches to narrow down properties in order to suit their exact requirements and save time.

Upon selecting, HousingInteractive's professional staff is available 6 days a week to introduce tenants to their future homes.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Namhouse Corporation 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating.

Supports professional services and after-sales.

www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENT First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079

Opus Vietnam 5F, Vitic Building 6B Nguyen Thanh Y, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel.

An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

TMF Vietnam Saigon Trade Center, Unit 2811, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9229 / 9222 hang.bui@tmf-group.com www.tmf-group.com With more than 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide.

Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume

Being there, or being ‘there’ Crown’s people are always with you.

Preparing you before you go, and helping you settle-in when you arrive.

Relocating should be exciting and rewarding for everyone.

Our experience and knowledge of worldwide relocations, is shared by all our people in more than 200 locations.

Ho Chi Minh City Tel: +84 8 3840 4237 hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Da Nang Tel: +84 908 426 427 danang@crownrelo.com Hanoi Tel:+84 4 3936 6742 hanoi@crownrelo.com

And we’ll always be there to help you get the most from your relocation.

Go knowing

www.crownrelo.com/vietnam

writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.

RELOCATION AGENTS

AGS Four Winds 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: +84 8 3521 0071, Fax: +84 8 3521 0710 www.agsfourwinds.com ags-vietnam@agsfourwinds.com Global leader in international removals and relocations, with 128 offices in 78 countries.They can move customers to and/or from any location worldwide.

Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 3823 3454 Kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords.com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specializing in business and office moves. Overseas and specialist movers also available.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Not just International or local moving and storage. Crown Relocations offer a wide range of services including orientations, immigration, home search, intercultural training through to pet relocation. Call the team on the above number and check out our website for more information.

UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations 1st Fl, 214 Nguyen Van

Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 7102 MOVING ? www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with ware housing, handyman, insurance & claim,

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orientation an partner career support services also availble.

JVK International Movers Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 Tel: 3826 7655/6 chris.honour@jvkasia.com www.jvk.com International agengy with a full range of services including sea/air freight services and worldwide transit coverage.

Santa Fe Relocation Services 8th floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com info@santaferelo.com.vn With over 150 offices around world, Santa Fe offers local & international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration & records management.

STATIONERY Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

Stationary and Printing Street Ly Thai To Street, D3 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast More than 25 stores providing photocopying services, from business cards to flyers and colour prints to invitations.

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Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Random Thoughts on Colour: The Finale

By Christina Yu In the previous 10 editions of AsiaLIFE, my random thoughts have given you clues to how colour can improve your life. The rather jumbled lines of synapses means it is difficult to know whether colour psychology works or is just a homeopathic remedy for fashion people. So to round out my thoughts on colour (my last in the series), here are some guides to keep in mind: Orange. Want to lose weight? Avoid restaurants painted orange. Orange is a stimulant and encourages you to eat. On the other hand, orange also encourages productivity and communication so it is a good colour for a work environment, albeit you may end up with very fat workers. But then again, you could just have everyone eat off a blue plate as we are apparently wired to avoid blue foods as being synonymous with poison.

Green. Need to de-stress?

Lie down in the grass. Green is one of the easiest colours to be seen and thus relaxes the eye muscles, which apparently flow through the rest of the body. The Chinese have known this for a thousand years with our feng shui, though science can now measure pulse rates and blood pressure (and proves the Chinese correct, again).

Red. Need a date? The opposite sex is attracted to red.

It turns out mother’s advice to

76 asialife HCMC

their young boys to avoid girls in red dresses is very sound, but you can always use this to your advantage. Males tend to spend more on a date with females wearing red than any other colour, so there is an upside in dressing a little tartily.

Purple. Need a better sex life? Buy some purple sheets.

British retailer Littlewoods reported that people with purple bedrooms have sex more frequently. But one suspects the law of big numbers had not been applied to this study.

If it were that easy, wouldn’t more people be buying purple sheets?

Blue. Need a new job?

Wear navy blue to the interview. The blue indicates loyalty and power, so you have a natural head start.

Yellow. Confused? Yellow is the alcohol of colours.

Yellow stimulates mental processes, activates memory and encourages communication. Yellow is supposedly the happiest colour in the colour spectrum, but, as with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc, too much can be a bad thing. People tend to argue more in yellow rooms, so maybe best in moderation.

Christina Yu is the creative director and founder of Ipa-Nima, an award-winning accessories brand. Email your questions to Christina@ipanima.com or visit Ipa-nima. com.

Bally Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men.

Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor.

Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions.

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEAR

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Replay Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 116 Nguyen Trai, D1 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3925 0252 Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for teens and university-age men and women. Carries boots, sandals, pumps and sneakers at mid-range prices.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

men

Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women

Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories.

BCBG MAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

Bon Mua Boutique Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9888 www.itamoda.com.vn Luxury women’s clothing store with racks organized by designer. Carries small collection of unique pieces from designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Alberta Ferretti, Blumarine, Valentino, Philosophy and Brunello Cucinelli.

ER-Couture Boutique 43 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2411 www. er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste.

Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Nine West Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Stocks an extensive range of designer footwear for women. Handpicked by a global community of independent trendsetters and stylists.

Star Polo 97B Nguyen Trai, D1 Mix of imported shoes and locally made

footwear crafted from Australian leather for men and women as well as imported ones. Sizes from 38 to 42 for men, and from 34 to 40 for women.

TAILORS

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men.

Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOES

Aldo 157 Dong Khoi, D1 Offering a wide selection of affordable footwear from mid- to high-range prices.

Carries office-appropriate and partyready heels and flats, as well as a range of accessories and bags.

Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes

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Japandroids at Cargo

Photos by Fred Wissink.

78 asialife HCMC

Pets in the City at Blanchy's Tash

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DISTRICT 4

radar Charting the complex

Chartgirl.com Most would agree it is important to stay up to date on world news and events.

Such topics are good conversation starters, and it feels good to be knowledgeable. But certain stories are admittedly complex and difficult to understand. The Eurozone banking crisis, for example. Fortunately ChartGirl has come to the rescue. Run by Hilary Sargent, this site distills current events into plain black and white charts. For example, there is one detailing the erroneous reporting regarding the Boston bombing, while another lays out all of the people Donald Trump is currently feuding with.

Videos in a hurry

5secondfilms.com The ultimate website for those with short attention spans, 5 Second Films presents exactly what it advertises, with a new video released every weekday. The very short, often irreverent clips cover a wide range of subjects, as evidenced by a selection of titles: ‘Emo Kids All Grown Up’, ‘RowboatCop’, and ‘Mustache in the Wind’. A personal favourite is ‘Can’t Go’, which shows a man imagining a waterfall while trying to urinate. However, the waterfall won’t begin flowing until the man does.

Mars is really, really far

Distancetomars.com Contemplating the vastness of the universe, or even just our solar system, is enough to make one’s head hurt. And this simple site doesn’t really help. It presents a graphic illustration of just how far away Mars is from Earth in order to show how difficult it will be to get a manned mission to the Red Planet.

Earth is depicted as 100 pixels wide, and after you click on an arrow the screen scrolls through space to the Moon, which is 3,000 pixels away. Click one more arrow and the screen scrolls down — for a very long time. Mars, at its closest point, is 428,000 pixels away.

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soundfix album review

Valerie June

Pushin’ Against A Stone The home of Elvis’s Graceland estate, Memphis has long had its reputation staked out as a musical hub. And if you need another reminder, here comes Valerie June. Combining gospel, folk, country, soul and blues, the 31-year-old solo artist produces a distinctive sound, worthy of putting Memphis on the map yet again. As she celebrates on the track ‘Tennessee Time’, June makes music with the slow tempo of her Southern birthplace. Her debut album Pushin’ Against A Stone earned early international claim and was heralded for its genrecrossing warmth and June’s arresting voice, which draws comparisons to Dolly Parton and Billie Holiday.

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by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Billy Woods

AlunaGeorge

Dour Candy

Body Music

With potent releases this month from Earl Sweatshirt, Ka and Homeboy Sandman, it’s tough to select only one hip-hop record for review. But the honour goes to Billy Woods’ Dour Candy, with a special nod to the Aesop Rock and Elucidfeatured track ‘Tumbleweed’.

Like most of the album, the song is meditative in tone and lyrics — a departure from the type of hip-hop that folks usually grind to on the dance floor. Producer Blockhead layers dark rhythms that, when listened to in the right mindset, can be transcendent. Evoking The Roots and Talib Kweli, Billy Woods demonstrates the possibilities of intelligent, sophisticated underground rap.

Aluna Francis and George Reid kept it simple when it came to christening their musical partnership. There’s no symbolism or strategic allusions, simply the pairing of their two given names. It’s aptly straightforward for the Londonbased duo that thrives on an effective collaboration between two different sounds. Without Reid’s electro production, Francis’s Lolita vocals might come off too cloyingly sweet.

Without Francis, Reid’s beats would lack the necessary oomph to make an impact. But together, the twosome produces catchy tracks such as ‘You Know You Like It’ and ‘Your Drums, Your Love’, which are destined for repeat on hipster sound systems around the world.

Julia Holter

Loud City Song “Yeah, nobody knows about it. Just grandmas,” said Julia Holter when the topic of her latest album’s inspiration — the 1958 MGM musical Gigi — came up in a recent interview.

Holter is a singer-songwriter and multi-instrumentalist with a taste for the obscure, having cited ancient Greek tragedy as the influence for her first two albums. Her sound can best be described as chamber pop, as she sings soaring, silvery notes over minimalist jazz instrumentation. The effect is avant-garde yet, at least on this new record, still somewhat accessible. And whether you catch the Gigi references or not, it’s hard not to appreciate Holter’s originality.

endorsed

xoneFM top ten Hot 10 this last

week week 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

title

new new new 1

Beautiful Goodbye We Can't Stop Made In The USA Just Give Me A Reason new Girl At Home 6 Everything Has Changed 12 Close Your Eyes 10 Treasure re entry People Like Us 8 Here's To Never Growing Up

artist Maroon 5 Miley Cyrus Demi Lovato Pink feat Nate Taylor Swift Taylor Swift feat Ed Sheeran Michael Buble Bruno Mars Kelly Clarkson Avril Lavigne

UK Top 10 this last

week week

title

1 2 3

1 2 new

4

new

Burn Wake Me Up Sonnentanz (Sun Don't Shine) Earthquake

5

4

Summertime Sadness

6 7 8

3 new new

We Can't Stop Other Side Of Love Lifted

5 7

Applause Blurred Lines

9 10

artist Ellie Goulding AVICII Klangkarussell feat Will Heard DJ Fresh / Diplo / Dominique Young Lana Del Rey vs Cedric Gervais Miley Cyrus Sean Paul Naughty Boy feat Emeli Sande Lady Gaga Robin Thicke / TI / Pharrell

US Top 10 this last

week week 1

1

2 3 4 5 6

4 2 3 6 8

7

9

8 9 10

11 10 7

title Robin Thicke / TI / Pharrell Maroon 5 Imagine Dragons Zedd feat Foxes Bruno Mars Calvin Harris feat Ellie Goulding Macklemore and Ryan Lewis feat Mary Lambert Capital Cities Anna Kendrick Jason Derulo

artist Blurred Lines Love Somebody Radioactive Clarity Treasure I Need Your Love Same Love Safe And Sound Lazy Cups The Other Side

Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee

By Michael Tatarski Comedian Jerry Seinfeld is most famous for his iconic, eponymous sitcom that defined the 1990s. But he is also a well-known car collector.

Seinfeld owns a wide variety of rare and classic cars, and in 2012 he decided to put some of them into use in an internet series called, Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee.

Seinfeld’s comedy is dry and observational, so it should come as no surprise that the title for this show is so straightforward. The premise is equally simple: Seinfeld goes for a drive in one of his cars, such as a Porsche 356 or a Volkswagen Karmann Ghia, picks up a friend from the entertainment industry, and goes to get coffee at a local diner or restaurant, usually in southern California but with several stops in New York as well.

The first season is 10 episodes, most of which are around 15 minutes long and feature a who’s who of comedy: Larry David, Ricky Gervais, Brian Regan, and Alec Baldwin, to name a few. The conversations cover numerous topics, from the thoughtful to the irreverent and ridiculous.

Seinfeld usually lets his guest take centre stage, and it is entertaining to see these hugely wealthy and famous people

sitting in a greasy spoon talking about traffic, just like the rest of us.

The unscripted nature of Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee is what really makes the show so addictive. In the first-season finale Seinfeld meets up with Michael Richards, who played Kramer in Seinfeld. As they drive along, Richards asks Seinfeld to turn down a street, since he claims former boxer Sugar Ray Leonard lives there and they should pay him a visit. They stop at a house and knock on the door, only to be told that actor Jay Mohr is actually the person who lives there, much to their amusement. Then they simply carry on to the diner, while Richards explains what was going through his head during his infamous racial tirade at a comedy club in 2006.

Season two of the series premiered in June and features stars such as Sarah Silverman, David Letterman and Chris Rock. The show has taken off, and was even nominated for a Primetime Emmy. Seinfeld has said that, moving forward, Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee will run in two sixepisode seasons every year.

See what the buzz is all about at Comediansincarsgettingcoffee.com.

asialife HCMC 85

boxoffice

The Conjuring

2 Guns

Prisoners

About Time

This horror flick tells the story of Ed and Lorraine Warren, world-renowned paranormal investigators, who were called to help a family terrorised by a dark presence in a secluded farmhouse. Forced to confront a powerful demonic entity, the Warrens find themselves caught in the most horrifying case of their lives. The film is based on true events that took place in 1971. So far the movie has been received positively, with review aggregator Rotten Tomatoes giving it 86 percent and describing it as “well-crafted and gleefully creepy”.

For 12 months, DEA agent Robert “Bobby” Trench (Denzel Washington) and US Naval intelligence officer Michael “Stig” Stigman (Mark Wahlberg) have been reluctantly attached at the hip. Working undercover as members of a narcotics syndicate, each man distrusts his partner as much as the criminals they have both been tasked to take down. When their attempt to infiltrate a Mexican drug cartel goes haywire, they find themselves on the run. While fleeing, they learn the secret of their shaky alliance: Neither knew that the other was an undercover agent.

From Oscar-nominated director Denis Villeneuve comes this film starring Hugh Jackman and Jake Gyllenhaal. Keller Dover’s (Jackman) six-year-old daughter, Anna, is missing, together with her young friend Joy, and as minutes turn to hours, panic sets in. The only lead is a dilapidated RV that had earlier been parked on their street. Detective Loki (Gyllenhaal) arrests its driver, but a lack of evidence forces his release. Knowing his child's life is at stake, the frantic Dover decides he has no choice but to take matters into his own hands.

At the age of 21, Tim Lake discovers he can travel in time.

He may not be able to change history, but he can change what happens and has happened in his own life. Tim decides to make his world a better place by getting a girlfriend, which turns out to be more difficult than he thought. He finally meets the beautiful but insecure Mary in London, but as his unusual life progresses, Tim finds his unique gift can't save him from the ups and downs that affect families everywhere.

Opening Dates CINEMAS Megastar and Galaxy cinemas Megastar.vn

2 Guns (13 Sept) Prisoners (20 Sept) About Time (27 Sept)

Galaxy cinema

The Conjuring (6 Sept)

Galaxycine.vn

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The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf The Residue Years

Night Film

Mitchell S Jackson

Marisha Pessl

Bloomsbury

Random House

A tale of a mother and son trying to stay afloat despite the odds, The Residue Years spans issues of drugs, race and urban poverty. Recently out of rehab, Grace fights against her urge to return to narcotics. Meanwhile, her son Champ sells crack to support the family while working towards a dream of buying his childhood home. Set in Portland, Oregon, the novel draws on author Mitchell S Jackson’s own experiences.

His familiarity with the challenges of being a disadvantaged African-American gives weight to his character portrayal and makes for a compelling, thought-provoking read.

Zealot: The Life and Times of Jesus of Nazareth Reza Aslan Random House

Already a controversial bestseller, Zealot is a new biography of Jesus Christ. Reza Aslan, a doctor of religious studies who previously wrote a history of Islam, sheds new light on the man revered as the Son of God. Drawing both from historical records and the New Testament, Aslan applies a rigorous academic approach to understanding Jesus not only as a holy figure, but also as a human being. As the book’s title indicates, Jesus is depicted as a man with a revolutionary agenda and a fervent dedication to his beliefs, placing a political emphasis on his activism that some Christians have been reluctant to embrace.

Marisha Pessl follows up her celebrated 2006 first novel Special Topics in Calamity Physics with another page-turner.

At the heart of the story is Scott McGrath, a journalist who is intent on probing the death of an eccentric filmmaker’s daughter. McGrath’s obsession with the case stems from a personal vendetta against the father and his suspicion of foul play in the daughter’s supposed suicide. The story is relayed through animated prose, but also via a visual pastiche of police reports, website screenshots and newspaper articles.

Readers can even follow the story beyond the book’s pages by using a downloadable app.

In Times of Fading Light Eugen Ruge Faber

What world existed on the eastern side of the Berlin Wall? German writer Eugen Ruge’s literary debut paints an intricate picture of East Berlin under communism. A fictionalised retelling of Ruge’s own background, the novel explores family dysfunction within a dysfunctional society.

Caught between socialist ideals and disillusionment with political restrictions, the Umnitzer relatives become increasingly torn apart. In Times of Fading Light shadows four generations of the family, weaving back and forth over the years from 1952 to 2001. Cultural and historical references provide temporal context throughout the narrative, but the themes of flesh and blood are timeless.

asialife HCMC 87

ODD ONE OUT Dana Filek-Gibson learns to do seven things poorly instead of one thing well.

There's something oddly alluring about the prospect of juicing vegetables, toning your abs and working your hair into a tasteful updo all at the same time.

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Before the day I manned up and got a motorbike, cried while I drove it and then crashed into the curb near my workplace, the Skinny Guy used to take me around. Cheerful and in possession of only one shirt, he was part of my neighbourhood's eclectic xe om gang. The man's driving skills were average as far as Saigon motorists go; I could sit whiteknuckled on the back while he weaved through rush hour traffic and only on a few occasions did I make bargains with Jesus for my young, unfinished life. Best of all, Skinny Guy was on time, every time. Even if it meant he had to sacrifice the rule of law and skip through a couple red lights, I would get there. This, I thought, was a man on a distinct and singular mission.

But the day I shared the backseat of his xe om with a 10-year-old boy, I realised something about Skinny Guy, and really society as a whole.

“This'll just take a minute,” he assured me, while a child in a pajama set hopped on between us. Totally casual, as if random foreign strangers were a regular part of his commute.

From there, the driver — who now had three lives and tens of thousands of dong at stake — answered his phone, took a few shortcuts, pointed out a good banh mi shop, tried to make eye contact with me and generally endangered the safety of everyone aboard. A harrowing 20 minutes later, I stumbled off the bike. This near-accident experience cost me some VND 30,000 and all my willful ignorance toward this truth: Skinny

Guy — not to mention the rest of Saigon — was a recklessly terrible multitasker.

Before Vietnam, I considered multitasking an asset. If it weren't for our compulsive need to do 17 things at once, why else would infomercial products exist? Separately, all the tasks seem to signify impossible and time-consuming burdens in our busy lives. But there's something oddly alluring about the prospect of juicing vegetables, toning your abs and working your hair into a tasteful updo all at the same time. Until my perilous excursion with Skinny Guy and the unidentified 10 year old, I aspired to master the art of successfully doing seven things at once. In some ways, I already thought I had.

But after that day a grim and terrible flaw became apparent.

In cafes across town, the waiter who was delivering my bill and taking someone else's order would suddenly get sidetracked by the lure of his ring tone or the lyrics to a Taylor Swift song.

Drivers texting as they moved on the fast track through an intersection would abruptly, unexpectedly change course, turning as wide and as carelessly as they could. Businesses I came to frequent would be chugging along, selling pho in the morning and jeans in the afternoon when suddenly, out of the blue, the shop would vanish into thin air and move to a new location three districts over.

These faults are, of course, easiest to see in others. Every time I have to ask twice for a bill or honk at someone for windowshopping on their motorbike, I break out a dramatic eye roll,

cursing “some people's” lack of regard for others under my breath. But no sooner have these words escaped my lips than I am back to playing traffic bingo and trying to read the misspelled English scrawled across another driver's T-shirt.

The tasks themselves are not the problem. The real issue is that I am doing none of them well. I no longer have the attention span for reading a news article in one sitting, so instead I've had to opt for GIFs of cats.

Halfway through a text message I forget who it is I'm texting and so usually just fail to send.

And in the hundreds of days I've lived in this country, in the thousands of cafes I've visited, my ears have been graced with George Michael's ‘Careless Whisper’ more times than any human being's ever should — and still I can't remember the words.

The optimist in me would like to believe that it gets better, preferably while having coffee and watching TV, but the chances of doing one thing at a time in this city without getting distracted are slim to none. My dream is to one day find a library — or some other quiet, dusty, heavily cushioned space — where I can hear a pin drop, or at least hear myself think. Until then, I possess the attention span of a cat, and unless I get hold of some Adderall and the one pair of Bose noise-cancelling headphones advertised in every airline magazine around the world, there is no going back.

Dana Filek-Gibson is a Canadian expat living in Ho Chi Minh City.

This Country Life Returning to Vietnam in 1989, Walter Pearson found locals juggling postwar baggage with economic liberalisation.

Last month I wrote about my first return to Vietnam after serving in the war. If you missed out, I will recap: I left Vietnam in December 1972 and made my first trip back in April 1989. I was on assignment with a crew from the Australian Ten Network and we stayed at a hotel on Le Lai Street where the New World Hotel now stands.

One day, outside Maxim's Restaurant on Dong Khoi Street, I was accosted by a vivacious, pockmarked 14-year-old girl selling cigarettes with her brother. I spoke to her in Vietnamese and she became very excited and wanted to show us around the city. We were going to dinner so I put her off. Afterward, she was still waiting outside the restaurant. I left the crew and ended up at her hangout on the river end of Nguyen Hue Street.

There I met her cohort.

There was an older woman and a pretty young thing.

There was another woman in her early 40s with a scar on her cheek running almost from her ear to the tip of her chin. I could see she had once been a quite attractive woman. There was the cigarette seller and her brother. After a while a few

more people joined us, I think mainly because I could speak Vietnamese.

The older woman was pimping the young one. I was encouraged to go with her but, in the language of old-fashioned journalism, I “made my excuses”. The older woman accepted this with no heavy-handed attempts to change my mind.

I was struck by this, expecting her to persist like the “Mama Sans” did in the old days.

The scar-faced woman was very quiet and it was only after a subsequent meeting that I got her full story. She had been a bar girl during the war. The system then was as it is today. In a bar, if one wanted to talk with a girl, one bought the girl what we called Saigon Tea — cold tea or Cola. In those days bar girls did not drink alcohol. Many Australian soldiers did not understand this Asian etiquette.

They refused to buy the girls drinks. They also misunderstood, thinking the girls would actually like talking with them.

They did not realise this was the girl's job. This particular bar girl had met a more generous American soldier and her life changed forever.

The two built up a bar business with one establishment in Can Tho and another in Vung Tau. They married and she was living well. Sometime early in the 1970s they moved to Manhattan. She was living even better. Then things turned sour.

For some unaccountable reason the relationship between this uneducated former bar girl from the Mekong Delta and her New York City, former-USArmy-sergeant husband broke down.

With incredibly amazing timing, early in 1974, she came back to Vietnam. In less than 12 months, the country was re-united and everybody was classified into a social and political category. She was classified as a former prostitute and sent to an education camp to learn new skills and be given a new moral compass, thus enabling her to be a productive citizen in the new socialist republic.

At that time in Vietnam, there were a lot of soldiers who had spent their youth in the jungles in the struggle for national salvation and had had no chance to marry. The authorities created a program to bring

these men into contact with unmarried women of suitable age. And so it was that under this program, the scar-faced girl (at that stage still young and attractive and with no scar) was teamed up with a bachelor Vietnamese to begin her second marriage to a war veteran.

Again, for some unaccountable reason the relationship between this re-educated former prostitute and her no-doubt PTSD-affected former jungle fighter broke down. In a fit of rage and jealousy one night he threw her out. But not before he took a razor and slashed her cheek to ensure she would not be attractive to any other man.

Alone, homeless and scarred, she came to Ho Chi Minh City to try to survive. She was one of many living on the streets.

As for the pock-faced 14year-old cigarette seller, that is a story that will have to wait for the next edition.

Walter Pearson is an Australian expat, tour guide, former journalist and war veteran. He lives with his family in the small town of Binh Long in Binh Phuoc province, north of Ho Chi Minh City. asialife HCMC 89

pub quiz 1. In what year were the September 11 attacks?

2. What 16-day celebration, held annually in Munich, begins in late September?

3. What sign of the zodiac do those born in the first half of September fall under?

4. The Pulitzer Prize winning The Old Man and the Sea was published in September 1952.

Who wrote it?

5. The Treaty of Basel of 22 Sept 1499, brought about the independence of which modern day country?

Connected (all five contain the same three letters) 6. Who, in May 2007, became the first international number-one selling foreign artist to perform a concert in Phnom Penh?

7. Jeff Bridges and Bruce Boxleitner reprised their roles in a 2010 sequel to which 1982 sci-fi film about a computer programmer?

8. Which Japanese word for a samurai with no lord or master was used as the title for a 1997 thriller starring Robert De Niro and Jean Reno?

9. In Greek mythology, who was youngest of the first generation of Titans and the father of Zeus?

10. Who won the FIFA World Player of the Year award in 2004 and 2005?

life and death?

18. Young Guns II, based on the life of Billy the Kid, had the theme song ‘Blaze of Glory’.

Who recorded it?

19. Which Australian outlaw has been played on film by both Heath Ledger and Mick Jagger?

20. Born in Uttar Pradesh, how was outlaw-turned-politician Phoolan Devi better known?

Time 21. Which band won a Grammy for the 2004 song ‘Clocks’?

22. Who wrote the novel The Time Machine?

23. How many time zones are there in China?

24. ‘The Time Warp’ is a song featured in which 1973 rock musical?

25. Which cult ‘children’s’ series often ended with a jack-inthe-box saying “Time for bed”?

Blemished Celebrities

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1) 2001 2) Oktoberfest 3) Virgo 4) Earnest Hemmingway 5) Switzerland 6) Ronan Keating 7) Tron 8) Ronin 9) Cronos 10) Ronaldinho 11) Brad Pitt 12) Prince William 13) Bill Wyman 14) Barack Obama 15) Kirk Douglas 16) Nottinghamshire 17) Boney M 18) Jon Bon Jovi 19) Ned Kelly 20) The Bandit Queen 21) Coldplay 22) H G Wells 23) 1 24) The Rocky Horror Show 25) The Magic Roundabout 26) Tom Cruise 27) Ashton Kutcher 28) Demi Moore 29) Miley Cyrus 30) Charlie Sheen

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Outlaws 16. Which English county’s limited-over cricket team is nicknamed the Outlaws?

17. Kate “Ma” Barker was an American outlaw of the 1920s and 30s. Which German based disco band had a hit single based on her

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In-laws 11. Who is Jon Voight’s de facto son-in-law?

12. Who is Pippa Middleton’s famous brother-in-law?

13. Patsy Smith was the motherin-law, and daughter-in-law, of which bass player?

14. Marian Robinson is whose live-in mother-in-law?

15. Which 96-year-old actor was nominated for three Academy Awards and has a son and a daughter-in-law who have both won Academy Awards?

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Pub Quiz Answers

September

FLY ETIHAD AIRWAYS TO ABU DHABI AND BEYOND BE OUR GUEST

From 1 October, 2013, Vietnam welcomes Etihad Airways, the World’s Leading Airline*, as your direct link to Abu Dhabi and over 80 destinations across the Middle East, Africa, Europe and the Americas.

Fly in comfort and luxury in our award winning Pearl Business Class, with guaranteed fully-flat beds and direct aisle access on all our flights from Vietnam as well as all widebodied long-haul aircraft.

In our Coral Economy Class, guests can enjoy noise reduction headphones, over 650 hours of on-demand in-flight entertainment, more meal choices, including Vietnamese cuisine, and a selection of hot beverages.

Book your next flight with Etihad Airways and find out why we’ve been voted the World’s Leading Airline, four years in a row.

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From Ho Chi Minh City to Abu Dhabi and beyond, from 1 October.

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