AsiaLIFE HCMC April

AsiaLIFE volume 61

www.asialifemagazine.com

22 front

06 News & Events 12 Dispatches

food

40 Sterling's Saigon Birth of the banh mi

41 Vesper

13 Street Smart:

Cocktail and tapas bar

Hoang Hoa Tham

42 Central Parc Banh Mi

16 Q&A with MasterChef

Fresh sandwiches

Christine Ha

43 ...hum Vegetarian

18 Photo Essay: Body Language Indigenous Australian dance

on the cover

22 Going Global

storyboard

28 The Way of the Sword

style & design

44 Under the Gun An English tattoo studio

46 Fashion: Golden

Vietnam's tech companies look to expand

Age Glamour Ancient Japanese martial art

30 Two Birds, One Stone

back

Green philanthropy

74 Spotlight 76 Street Guide

32 Walking Among Legends

84 Odd One Out

Vietnam and Cambodia war correspondents

Keeping your cool

85 This Country Life

34 Life After Tumor

getaways

50 The List

The Red Road of Death

86 Pub Quiz

36 Gently Down the Stream Boat trip in northern Vietnam

38 Traversing the Tatai Trekking in Cambodia

42

44

Cover Art Direction Johnny Murphy Photography Fred Wissink Assistant Marc Milan

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note from the editor Group Director Sales & Marketing / Director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialife.asia Managing Editor: Chris Mueller chris@asialife.asia

Editorial Intern: Ruben Luong

Contributing Editor: Michael Tatarski michael@asialife.asia Editor-at-Large: Brett Davis brett@asialifehcmc.com

It’s the same thing every month: The week of our deadline nears and without fail, my internet connection goes dark.

It takes days to schedule a time to meet the internet company, and by then I’ve already spent way too much time mooching off the Wi-Fi in cafes or bars. There’s nothing left to do but curse the country under my breath, and wonder aloud whether it will ever become a nation that isn’t reliant on a cable under the ocean that seems to get cut, or stolen, every month.

This, of course, is an overreaction to a minor inconvenience, but I’m sure it’s one all expats have had. So it came with a surprise while reporting our cover story this month, which explores some areas of the thriving technology industry in Vietnam, how much this field is actually growing.

Like the country as a whole, the technology industry surprised me at every corner. I found young, tech-savvy entrepreneurs working tirelessly to build something they believed in, sacrificing time and money for a greater purpose. I also found seasone CEOs who have already put in the time and hard work, and continue to do so, but hope to inspire a younger generation with their success.

Every company I spoke with had a similar goal in mind: to make Vietnam a global contender in the tech industry.

Whether they really can accomplish this remains to be seen, but I won’t be surprised if they do. The Vietnamese, after all, have been underestimated throughout their history, and this may just be one more area where they will surprise the world.

Elsewhere his month we speak to another group investing in Vietnam’s future, the Green Youth Collective. They hope to train young, disadvantaged Vietnamese to live more sustainable lives by growing crops in the city. We also take a step back and look at some of the journalists and photographers that shaped the way much of us view Vietnam. During a rare event across the border in Cambodia these men, who sacrificed so much, reminisce about a Vietnam that most of us will never know.

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Photo Editor: Fred Wissink fred@asialife.asia Photographer: Linh Phanroy

Deputy Editor: Lien Hoang lien@asialife.asia

Chris Mueller

Regional Creative Director: Johnny Murphy johnny@asialife.asia

Production Manager: Nguyen Kim Hoa nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com

For advertising and marketing enquiries please contact: +84 938 298395 / +84 8 6680 6105 or adsales@asialifehcmc.com

AsiaLIFE Group Group Editor / Director Cambodia: Mark Bibby Jackson mark@asialife.asia Managing Editor Cambodia: Ellie Dyer Art Director Cambodia: Steve Tierney Sales Cambodia: Sorn Chantha Chantha@asialife.asia

Director Thailand: Nattamon Limthanachai (Oh) oh@asialife.asia Associate Editor Thailand: Yvonne Liang Photo Editor Thailand: Nick McGrath Sales Thailand: Piyalai Tandhnan (Ming) Ming@asialife.asia

Next time you're in Cambodia or Thailand check out the latest content from AsiaLIFE or download it at:

www.asialifemagazine.com Find AsiaLIFE articles on

NEWS

EVENTS

Cricket Legends at Q4

Greg Chappell, Jeff Thomson and Doug Walters are three of Australia’s greatest ever cricketers, and on 20 April, they will come to Ho Chi Minh City.

The event will be held in Q4 at 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh in District 4. Price is VND 1.8 million per person and includes dinner and free flow drinks. There will also be an auction of notable cricket memorabilia. Tickets can be purchased at Hogs Breath Café or by emailing nationalpres@ vietnamswans.com.

So Hollywood

New Residence

Capri by Fraser marks the arrival of the first guests at its new serviced residence in District 7. “Our guests’ needs are of the utmost importance to us, and my team and I look forward to making their month-long stay not just pleasant and comfortable, but also positively memorable,” said general manager Charlie Feng.

The development is a new concept launched in Singapore in September, which the company considered successful enough

Level 23 Nightspot at the Sheraton will turn into a Hollywood celebration on 12 April. Everyone receives a free welcome drink, while staff will be dressed in theme. Come as your favourite Hollywood actor or actress and dance the night away with tunes from an international music band starting at 9pm.

There’s no cover for the party, which starts at 8pm. More at Level23saigon.com.

Elegant surroundings, great location, professional service and finest cuisine... All you can find at Norfolk Hotel.

117 Le Thanh Ton St., Dist.1, HCMC, Vietnam Tel: (84-8) 3829 5368 - Fax: (84-8) 3829 3415 - Email: info@norfolkhotel.com.vn - Website: www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Managed by Norfolk Group

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that it expanded to Ho Chi Minh City. It already owns Fraser Suites in Hanoi. The newest facilities boast the convenience of a hotel and the comfort of a home. Five different accommodation types range from studios to two-bedrooms with full kitchens. Find the company at Hochiminhcity.capribyfraser. com.

Make Agent Orange History

Schools of North America will host a “24 Hour Relay” on 10-11 May to support Agent Orange victims. The charity

HCMC Goes Black

event has been made possible through the support of the Lang Tre Em Hoa Binh (Peace Village) in Tu Du Hospital. During the relay the school will cooperate with local vendors, restaurants, and educational bodies to put on entertaining activities for the guests. The school hopes to raise about $5,000 for the educational needs of patients at the Peace Village. The donations will be used to support tuition fees, school supplies, new computers, and other student needs. The event will take place 10 and 11 May at Schools of North America in Binh Chanh District. If you would like to donate to the cause or volunteer, please email event coordinator Robert Wilson at counseling@ sna.edu.vn.

Women Move Up

You might have noticed all the blue-green banners around town when on 23 March, Ho Chi Minh City participated in Earth Hour.

The international movement highlights climate change by urging people to forgo electricity for one hour, in this case from 8.30-9.30pm local time.

The Caravelle, for instance, switched off lights on its facade, in its guestrooms, and at its restaurant, where people dined by candlelight. The city has its own organising board to boost participation, which got volunteers to install 400 energy-saving bulbs and collect 1,000 tin milk containers to turn into roof metal. The campaign also encouraged drivers to turn off their engines for 20 seconds at red lights.

Global accounting and advisory firm Grant Thornton released a report in March that lists Vietnam among the top 10 nations with an increase in the percent of women in senior management. The International Business Report shows that figure has grown by 30 percent in Vietnam, compared with 32 percent across Asean and 21 percent among G7 countries. Grant Thornton calls the country a leader when it comes to work flexibility, offered by 70 percent of companies here. “Given the high flexible working hours in Vietnam and the government's favourable policy for 'gender equality', many Vietnamese women are taking the opportunity and are increasingly proving themselves in the workplace,” audit director Trinh Thi Tuyet Anh said.

Invest in Myanmar

In 2012, Myanmar attracted more than $40 billion in foreign investments. If you are considering opportunities in the country, an Irving Seminar at the Legend Hotel Saigon will be held at 8am on 11 April

www.bisvietnam.com

BIS Inspiration Acknowledging the achievements of leaders

Professor

NgĂ´ BĐ…o Châu is one of the most distinguished Â¤Â˜ÂŤÂ&#x;ÂœÂ¤Â˜ÂŤÂ ÂšÂ Â˜ÂĽÂŞ ÂŚÂ? ŒŠ ÂŤÂ Â¤Âœ Â˜ÂĽÂ› ÂŤÂ&#x;Âœ ȚŠª Â?Â ÂœÂŤÂĽÂ˜Â¤ÂœÂŞÂœ recipient of the Fields Medal, the highest honour in mathematics, for proving the fundamental lemma for automorphic forms. Also a recipient of the Oberwolfach Prize and the Prix Sophie Germain de l’AcadĂŠmie des Sciences de Paris, ‡ŠŒÂ?ÂœÂŞÂŞÂŚÂŠ zÂ&#x; ÂŹ  ª œ˜› ÂŚÂ? ÂŤÂ&#x;Âœ Â?Â ÂœÂŤÂĽÂ˜Â¤ Â€ÂĽÂŞÂŤÂ ÂŤÂŹÂŤÂœ Â?ŒŠ xÂ›Â­Â˜ÂĽÂšÂœÂ› Š›°  ¼ Â„Â˜ÂŤÂ&#x;ÂœÂ¤Â˜ÂŤÂ ÂšÂŞ  ¼ Â˜ÂĽÂŚÂ Â˜ÂĽÂ› ˜ › ª ¼ž ªÂ&#x;œ› ‡ŠŒÂ?ÂœÂŞÂŞÂŚÂŠ Â˜ÂŤ ÂŤÂ&#x;Âœ }Â˜ÂšÂŹÂŁÂŤÂ° ÂŚÂ? Â„Â˜ÂŤÂ&#x;ÂœÂ¤Â˜ÂŤÂ ÂšÂŞc ÂŒÂĽÂ Â­ÂœÂŠÂŞÂ ÂŤÂ° ÂŚÂ? zÂ&#x;Â ÂšÂ˜ÂžÂŚe

On March 15th 2013, Professor Châu facilitated a dialogue on ‘How we learn’ with over 400 BIS students, at BIS An Phu Secondary Campus.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY

AN PHU PRIMARY

TU XUONG PRIMARY

AN PHU SECONDARY

225 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Phone: (84 8) 3744 4551 Email: apprimary@bisvietnam.com

43-45 Tu Xuong, Ward 7, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Phone: (84 8) 3932 0210 Email: txprimary@bisvietnam.com

246 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Phone: (84 8) 3744 2335 Email: apsecondary@bisvietnam.com

for business representatives and investors. Speakers will share their experience in the emerging market and practical knowledge about the investment environment, regulations, and current changes. They’ll also discuss the new foreign investment law, tips on identifying partners, and updates on customs, tax, and labour issues. The networking event will feature Dr Maung Maung Lay, vice president of the Republic of the Union of Myanmar Federation of Chambers of Commerce and Industry. For the brochure, contact vy.nguyen@ irvingseminar.com or 08 90 29 62 57 7.

Little Black Dress

If you work for an airline, hotel, restaurant, or food or beverage supplier, head to the Hyatt on Wednesdays. They have buy-one-get-one specials for anyone who presents a business card related to the service industry. For everyone else,

well the ones who look good in a black dress, there are similar offers Thursday nights at the hotel's martini bar, which will have a raffle, too. Reach the hotel at 08 38 24 12 34 or Restaurants.parkhyattsaigon.com.

Cutting Costs at VietJetAir

Science for the Whole Family

“Questacon - The Fascinating Science on the Move program” is an interactive science event coming 26-27 April as part of Australia’s celebration of 40 years of diplomatic relations in Vietnam. Questacon includes a hands-on travelling exhibition plus science shows and demonstrations presented by dynamic science communicators. The free program features scientific themes from human biology, physical phenomena and simple engineering and mechanical concepts. It is aimed at children aged 10-14 and their families. Questacon will be held at RMIT’s Saigon South campus in District 7.

The Civil Aviation Association of Vietnam has granted Approved Maintenance Organisation certification to VietJetAir. That means the budget carrier’s engineering team can perform daily maintenance of its fleet of Airbus A320s, which the company hopes will allow more flexibility in maintenance activities, reduce management costs and maximize efficiency. Lai Xuan Thanh, head of the association, said it would review the credentials annually, which sets requirements for manpower, engineering facilities, spare parts, tooling, and documentation.

Saigon Grindcore

For the very first time, Vietnam’s metal and grindcore fans can enjoy the finesse from Finland, Rotten Sound, as they land in Vietnam on 5 April before heading to the Obscene Extreme Fest Asia. Two Vietnamese acts, Wuu and Brutore, will join Rotten Sound on stage. Rotten Sound, from Vassa, Finland, formed in 1993 and has since released eight studio albums.

The event will take place at 8pm at Club Darts Darts Darts, 224a Pasteur Street, D3. Tickets cost VND 200,000 at the door and include one shot of Jager.

Prevention is better than cure… the road to a healthier and longer life starts at International SOS Clinics

Wine Night

A regular Health Check will help identify risks and allow for improved health outcomes. For a limited time only when you book for a Health Check you will receive a complimentary Health Check for a family member or friend.

Offer is valid from 1st April to 30th April 2013. Conditions apply.

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Saigon’s wine aficionados need only travel as far as Lam Son Square to get a taste of vintages from the legendary wine growing region, Rioja Alta. Reflections Restaurant at the Caravelle is popping the cork on six illustrious Spanish wines in an exclusive Marques de Caceres Wine Dinner on 4 April. Wines served throughout the evening include Marques de Caceres Blanco, Marques de Caceres MC, and Marques de Caceres Reserva. Guests also will sample Marques de Caceres Gran as part of the VND 1,148,000 package. Call 08 38 234 99 9 or see Caravellehotel.com.

Cambodia & Thailand News Download AsiaLIFE Cambodia and AsiaLIFE Thailand online at: www.asialifemagazine.com.

Cambodia Cyclo Diaries Returns

Meta House will host a second screening of Cyclo Diaries

by Marty Sharples and Tony Norton on 9 April at 7pm. The humorous documentary details a month-long journey by two expatriate Australians riding a cyclo from Hanoi to Saigon.

The cyclo, traditionally used to transport people and goods in flat, urban environments, soon reveals its inappropriateness for a cross-country trip on Vietnam’s chaotic and mountainous roads. The 1,760km trip along Vietnam's infamous Highway 1, sometimes regarded as the most dangerous highway in the world, broke the world record for distance travelled on a rickshaw and raised more than $20,000 for KOTO, a Hanoibased organisation providing vocational and personal support to disadvantaged children in Vietnam.

Pasteur Institute Celebrates 60th Anniversary

To mark its 60th Anniversary on 11 March, Phnom Penh’s Institut Pasteur laid the foundation stone for a new centre for research into infectious diseases. The ceremony was attended by Minister of Health Bunheng Mam, French ambassador Serge Mostura, and Professor Alice Dautry, director general of the Institute. Established in 1953, the centre has devoted the past 60 years to research, developing vaccines, improving public health, and the training and development of Cambodian healthcare personnel. The institute also is holding an exhibition at Sofitel hotel in Phnom Penh until June. A series of photographs, engravings and lithographs, sketches, paintings and sculptures represent the history of its work.

Colonial Mansions Rebrands

Property company Hongkong Land has rebranded the Colonial Mansions site in central Phnom Penh as Central Mansions, following a refurbishment.

Chief Executive of Hongkong Land Y K Pang attended a ceremony marking the move and said that “the Cambodian property market offers significant opportunities which will attract long-term institutional capital and international occupiers." Once complete, Central Mansions, located near the US embassy, is set to include 101 serviced apartments and five luxury penthouses.

CBC Charity Cup

The Credit Bureau Cambodia Charity Cup 2013 will take place at the Beeline Arena on 6 April. The football event will be contested by 10 teams with all proceeds going to a quest to get a Cambodian team to this year’s Homeless World Cup in Poznan, Poland. Last year’s winners PP Celtic have not entered a team this year, so there will be a new champion. The teams competing this year are AsiaLIFE, Ezecom, Emaxx, Wing, KPMG, Mad Monkey, Coffee-Cambodia, Paddy Rice, Laughing Lizards and Metro. Prizes on the day will include the H2O Media Fair Play Award and the Emaxx Most Valuable Player Award. The first game kicks off a 9am with a final scheduled for 3pm later in the day. A barbecue will run from 11am, with lunch available for participants and guests.

The event is open to the public and entry is free. All enquiries should be directed to jimmy@ hfcaustralia.org.

Thailand Lifelike Paintings

A solo exhibition of oil paintings by Natchai Posila will be on display at the Neilson Hays Li-

brary from 1 April to 4 May. The artist has spent six years honing his painting skills, reproducing the works of old masters, photographers and famous artists. This time honoured yet unconventional apprenticeship has had a powerful influence on Nat’s technique and has contributed to the mastery of his craft, oil paint. This exhibition sees a metamorphosis in the maturity of Nat’s work, reflected in his detailed, super real images of butterflies rendered on an immense scale.

The opening will be from 6pm to 9pm on 3 April, when the artist will be present. The Neilson Hays Library is located at 195 Surawong Road, +66 (0) 22 33 17 31.

Lobster and Beer

JW Marriott’s renowned New York Steakhouse is running a lobster promotion through April. Choose a lobster from Brittany, Phuket or the Atlantic and instruct the chef how you like it prepared — grilled with garlic butter and chilli, steamed with shallot, ginger and light soy, or baked in salt crusted with mushroom and leek. All dishes come served with the chef’s salad and truffle vinaigrette, rosemary sea salt fries and fresh boiled asparagus.

Lobsters start from B2,480.

The lobster dinner promotion is available from 1-30 April. If you are looking for a refreshing beer, Tsu Bar is offering Asahi draught cold beers for B99 served with Japanese snacks for B100 while its DJ spins the latest beats. J W Marriott Bangkok, 4 Sukhumvit Road Soi 2, +66 (0)2 656 7700, Jwmarriottbangkokhotel.com.

Gourmet Artichokes

This spring is a seasonal affair at Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa’s Italian restaurant Brio, with a special à la carte menu inspired by Italy’s finest artichokes, available until 21

April. The Italian Artichokes Menu pays tribute to the Roman artichoke, which only grows from late February to early May and is one of the most appreciated varieties out of over 50 types found in Italy.

The seasonal menu comprises four dishes, each infused with sought-after seafood. Choices include: salad of Italian braised artichokes with crisp Parma ham and king prawn, for B880; velvet veloute from Roman artichokes, calamari and squid ink, for B400; carnaroli risotto with parmesan and artichokes and a langoustine tail with cherry tomato confit and blood orange, for B1,120; and Maine lobster poached in shellfish broth, for B1,650. The Italian Artichoke Menu will be served daily at Brio restaurant for both lunch (11.30am to 2.30pm) and dinner (6pm to 10.30pm). Visit Bangkokriverdining.com for details.

Hanky Panky with Broadway Babe

Broadway Babe and her company of performers will rewind the clocks with their second Vintage Night: Hanky Panky — an hour long musical revue where Moulin Rouge, Madonna and Broadway collide – at The Circus in CDC on 25 and 26 April. Broadway Babe is Kristen Evelyn Rossi, an American actress and singer based in Bangkok. Professional credits include GMM Grammy’s television series, Flying with Byrd as the voice of Dani, herself in Trix O’ Treat’s latest music video Pen-ther-kor-dee and 2012's Colgate Plax Fruity commercial for Southeast Asia. Her passion for musical theatre has led to Broadway Babe, an endeavour to bring Broadway style to Bangkok. Tickets are B500 and include a drink and the performances start at 9pm. Call +66 (0)2 10 22 507 or email: broadwaybabeasia@gmail.com for more details. asialife HCMC 11

dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Family Beach Fun in Thailand Hotel de la Paix Cha Am Beach Resort in Hua Hin is offering two nights accommodation in a spacious Horizon Studio for $427 based on two adults with one accompanying child under the age of 12. Guests can kick back and spend quality time with those that matter most, revelling in the captivating contemporary design and chic style of architect Duangrit Bunnag, which has garnered widespread acclaim and lends Hotel de la Paix its distinct atmosphere. Families can participate in a variety of outings together, such as a return journey by shuttle bus to the hustle and bustle of Hua Hin markets, or visit temples and other architectural attractions such as the Summer Palace or Hua Hin Railway station. Games of golf at the stunning Black Mountain or Banyan Tree courses also can be arranged. The package includes a fine dining set meal in Motion restaurant. The offer is valid until 15 May. Details at Hoteldelapaixhh.com.

Island Getaway Lying between the vast Indian Ocean and a tranquil lagoon in the town of Negombo, Jetwing Lagoon is an elegant Sri Lanka spa resort on the island’s west coast. Its design blends modern luxuries and space with white and brown hues for a sense of serene opulence and freedom. The resort, which has the longest swimming pool in the area and provides sustainable air conditioning via steam, is offering a free spa treatment and 15 percent off meals when guests stay four nights.

The deal lasts through April and must be booked online at Jetwinghotels.com.

Coming to Myanmar Apple Tree Group is targeting 15 April for the soft opening of the tented luxury lodge in the heart of historic Bagan. Near the eastern banks of the legendary Irrawaddy River, the property offers 85 airconditioned rooms in three classes of accommodation. The hotel’s design aesthetic melds classic Burmese brick with contemporary flourishes and tented roofs. Its principal restaurant, the Tiffin Box, delivers authentic Burmese to western cuisine. Afternoon tea is served in the Lobby Lounge, and the Pool Bar offers snacks and cocktails. Beyond the restaurant, the lodge features a spa, a 20metre pool and travel desk for guests to book local excursions and onward flights. Info at Balconymediagroup.com.

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STREET SMART: Hoang Hoa Tham Dana Filek-Gibson heads to the border of Phu Nhuan and Binh Thanh districts and discovers a street where old meets new. Photos by Christian Berg.

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Walking down Hoang Hoa Tham, a small but lively street where Phu Nhuan and Binh Thanh districts overlap, is much like taking a trip through time. From the moment you turn off Phan Dang Luu, the street is populated by sleek, modern boutiques, company headquarters, trendy open-air cafes, and other tell-tale signs of a city rapidly growing to keep pace with the rest of the world. But pass the halfway mark, where Nguyen Van Dau interrupts the rows of brand-new businesses, and it's all market stalls and women on bicycles, their faces hidden under the familiar shadow of conical hats. Old Vietnam returns with full force, reminding you of the sights and smells of a country that, for all its forward progress, holds fast to the best parts of the age-old market culture.

To get to this area, take Dinh Tien Hoang street at the top of District 1 past Vo Thi Sau, make a right to stay on the street over the bridge into Binh Thanh District. Turn left onto Phan Dang Luu and follow the street for a half-kilometre.

Hoang Hoa Tham will be on your right.

Hot Tofu Gia Truyen (Dau Hu Nong Gia Truyen) 191 Hoang Hoa Tham The name may sound unappetizing, but don't be fooled — the owners of this small storefront run a popular operation selling dessert tofu: the thin, silky variety topped with ginger, coconut milk, and tapioca pearls. Portions are a good size for their VND 5,000 price tag, and the shop — located amid the bustle of the old Cay Queo market along Hoang 14 asialife HCMC

Hoa Tham — also sells blocks of fresh or fried tofu and various other tofu products.

Hu Tiu Shop 195 Hoang Hoa Tham There are millions of places in the city to enjoy a bowl of hu tiu, the soup with thin, threadlike noodles accompanied by shrimp, pork, and occasionally dumplings, but this particular shop is worth patronising for its quiet, laid-back atmosphere. Located on the grounds of a former pagoda, the seating area is shaded by trees and sheltered from the traffic-heavy market on the street. The owner of the noodle stall speaks English and French in addition to Vietnamese, and he also runs a second business, Vibina, providing travel services throughout Vietnam.

Nhac Cu 123 123 Hoang Hoa Tham For the musically-inclined, this shop sells a variety of guitars, keyboards, and accordions, as well as accessories like clips, tuners, and picks. Guitars boast the largest selection and range in price from VND 500,000 to several million dong, while a brightlycoloured accordion will set you back VND 900,000.

Nang Cafe 97 Hoang Hoa Tham For a spot that falls somewhere on the spectrum between coffee cart and high-end cafe, check out this cool, open-air shop not far from the Nguyen Van Dau intersection. Small round tables line the sidewalk just beyond Cay Queo market, allowing for ample peoplewatching opportunities from

the comfort of the shaded cafe. Nang Cafe offers a wide range of both Vietnamese- and European-style coffees as well as tea, smoothies, and fresh juices at affordable prices. A ca phe sua da costs VND 19,000 and a latte VND 25,000. If this cafe is full-up, you also can try City Cafe next door, which provides a similarly easygoing atmosphere.

NTN Saigon Ceramics 74 Hoang Hoa Tham Even from across the street,

the exterior of NTN Saigon is a work of art. High glass walls surround the property, offering a full view into the lush courtyard, where brightly-coloured vases and oversize flower pots are on display. NTN Saigon creates sleek, modern furniture using ceramic or fiberglass materials to produce coffee tables, desks, shelving, lamps, and storage items. Pieces come in vivid colours, from primary all the way to outrageous lime green and hot pink. Prices start around VND 1 million.

V&V Coffee and Handmade Accessories 40 Hoang Hoa Tham The faded awning sign of this shop is easy to miss, but what drew my eye first was the wall of handmade accessories on display just inside. V&V is your typical take-away coffee shop with a twist, featuring a sizable collection of handmade bracelets, earrings, and necklaces for sale at affordable prices. Ready-made items run anywhere from VND 20,000 to VND 100,000, but you also can

purchase your own materials, including waxed string, embroidery thread, and leather cord in a variety of colours.

The shop sells all manner of beads, from metal charms to large decorative pieces for your own handmade creations. Prices are reasonable: String runs about VND 2-3,000 per 10cm and beads cost up to VND Get directions 20,000.

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The US TV program’s first blind champion visited Vietnam to launch the local version of the show and shoot promotional ads. After putting her acting and Vietnamese skills to the test, the Texan sat down with AsiaLIFE to talk about setting things on fire, hitting rock bottom, and showing the dark humour that few viewers saw. By Lien Hoang.

Do you think cooking Vietnamese food helped you win MasterChef?

Definitely. I think that that was my strength because no one else knew how to cook with fish sauce and no one knew how to cook with coconut milk or things that are very key to Vietnamese cuisine. And I think the judges don’t know Vietnamese cuisine as well as they know French and other classical techniques so it was something that I played to my strength.

You’re mom didn’t teach you to cook?

I was never really interested in cooking, I just thought that eating good food was something that everyone grew up with, you know. And I think — she passed away when I was 14 and left no recipes. So it wasn’t until I went away to college that I missed the food that I grew up eating that I figured I would have to learn. So I bought a cookbook in college and learned from there, just by remembering how things tasted.

What surprised you about being on MasterChef?

It was a lot harder than I thought it would be. I thought because it was TV they would teach you a lot of things and they would extend the time, like I thought, you know, 60 minutes we would really get 90 minutes.

You’re very recognisable now, do people come up to you on the street?

It’s even crazier here in Vietnam. There are people who meet me and are crying, to me that’s really bizarre.

You’re working on a memoir?

My concentration was primarily in fiction [in university], but I’ve decided obviously to capitalise on everything. I

knew everyone was interested in my life, so I thought it’d be a smart career move to change to creative nonfiction, so right now that’s primarily what I’m writing. That’ll be my thesis and I’m supposed to be graduating in May. When you look at your memoir, what do you think stands out?

I think it’ll be something that hopefully people will be able to connect with because everyone goes through some kind of trial. And because I’m in creative writing it’s different.

I’m not writing one of those memoirs that’s like, I had these challenges and I overcame them, and you can, too.

It’ll probably be very dark, but there’ll be humour in it, too, because I think writing needs to have humour no matter what the subject. That’s just my personality as well.

Did religion take on any bigger role once you lost your sight, did you start thinking about more existentialist questions?

Somewhat, I think anytime when you’re really at the rock bottom of your life, you start to search for answers and the reasons why things happen or you’re just trying to make sense of things.

You mention rock bottom, are you comfortable talking about when things were at their worst?

I’d probably say the two things in my life that affected me the most, but in the end built my character, was probably when my mom passed away, I went through a long depression after that, and then with my health stuff. I’m sure I went through depression with that as well, but I

don’t think it was as deep as before … But yeah those were probably the darkest times. I think every creative writer has demons, right?

It almost seems like you’re seeing everything I’m seeing.

Yeah oftentimes I don’t know what the hell’s going on. But I’ve learned to just kind of go with it. I obviously listen more. I think it was scary when I first lost my vision, you don’t know what’s going on, but after a while you just get used to it.

When has that been a challenge when cooking?

I’m a pretty messy cook, I set things on fire on the show.

I think when you cook you have to be really organised, and it’s hard to be organised when you’re in a challenge that’s timed and you’re flustered.

Is there anything you think didn’t come out in the show?

People watching that only know about you through that lens.

[Aside to a friend] I want to be candid but I have to remember she’s a reporter.

I think I’m probably wittier and have a darker sense of humour. They didn’t show a lot of that. They cut out all my jokes. They left maybe a few in there.

Was it just not for primetime?

I think they just wanted my character to be very angelic, and a lot of my humour is like mean and un-PC, totally as a joke or with my friends. They make everyone kind of one- or two-dimensional. They made us all caricatures of ourselves, so I would say it’s all very true but they just pushed ourselves to the extreme. asialife HCMC 17

Photo Essay

BODY LANGUAGE Perhaps one of the most unique forms of story telling to come out of Australia today is rooted in its oldest traditions. Bangarra Dance Theatre draws on aboriginal dance, throwing in skin-tight dress that blends into body paint, plus impressive choreography using a blanket as a prop, to offer modern interpretive performances. In March, the troupe swung through the Ho Chi Minh City Opera House to help Australia mark 40 years of diplomatic ties with Vietnam.

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Photos courtesy of Bangarra.

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Startups, software outsourcing companies, e-commerce websites, and mobile app and video game developers are all part of the budding technology industry in Vietnam that is setting its sights on the international market. But do they have what it takes to compete on a global scale? By Chris Mueller. Photos by Fred Wissink.

asialife HCMC 23

C

ong Hoa street is a perfect metaphor for Vietnam’s developing technology industry — old mixing with new, innovation with tradition. The dusty thoroughfare just south of Tan Son Nhat airport runs from a dirt road intersection to a pothole-ridden busy highway. On one corner sits a shiny Burger King, and just a few doors down, old shops and restaurants that could have been in the same location for decades flank a new shopping mall.

Up the street a tall, modern office building sticks out from the ramshackle buildings on either side of it. This is the new Vietnam headquarters of KMS Technology, one of Vietnam’s up-and-coming software outsourcing companies that is trying to lead the way out of the dust and into international markets.

Viet Hung, KMS’s managing director, prefers sitting in the café-like lobby to his big office, complete with a vintage Vespa, at the top of the 10-story KMS building. Dressed in jeans and a short-sleeved shirt, the 36 year old tells me how KMS was founded four years earlier.

Photo by Christian Berg

'As long as we have good people we can have good business, and that’s how we can contribute to this country.'

-KMS managing director Viet Hung

24 asialife HCMC

Hung and his two friends, Vu Lam and Chung Tran, had worked together for a while before splitting up to go to different companies. All three were unhappy with their new jobs and decided they had the skills and passion to start something new.

“We asked ourselves what our most valuable asset was,” Hung says. “It’s our brotherhood. We decided that any time there is a conflict, we would prioritise our relationship over business."

It was an idealistic beginning to the company, a quality that continues today, but apparently it has worked. The company is now valued at $11 million, with 350 employees in Vietnam and 12 in the United States.

Vu, the CEO, lives in the United States, where he ended up after fleeing Vietnam on a fishing boat in 1978.

KMS is just one of many companies to come out of the growing software outsourcing business in Vietnam. Some industry observers are hailing the country as a cheaper alternative to India and China, which dominate the outsourcing market, and believe more companies opening or coming to Vietnam will change its export focus from textiles to technology.

But that’s not likely to happen until some changes are made, says Prithvi Puttaraju, who is the founder and CEO of software outsourcing company InfoNam in Ho Chi Minh City and has more than 20 years of experience in the field.

“It’s a potential industry, but it needs work,” he says. “The educational system needs to improve a lot and language needs to improve.

Otherwise Vietnam will miss the bus. Talent is also always an issue, but that can be resolved with good managers and training. Vietnamese are smart people and can come up with solutions to difficult problems.”

Puttaraju adds that the industry also requires more large, foreign companies to invest in Vietnam.

“The reason why is because in the technology business engineers learn on the job,” Puttaraju says. “If you have a company like Cisco or Nokia here, you’d be able to have more hands-on learning for new technologies.

WHAT WOMEN WANT In the last few years, the fastest growing part of the emerging tech industry in Vietnam has been e-commerce websites. Like in the west, everything is going up on the internet for sale. But with so many jostling for a share of the market, is it really a profitable industry?

“It is a huge market, and has a lot of potential,” says James Vuong, CEO of Project Lana, which operates several e-commerce sites and mobile apps aimed at women.

“But this market is really, really difficult and startups have to lose a lot of money before they reach critical mass,” Vuong says. “A lot of companies don’t realise that. It’s not for the faint hearted.”

He says the idea for Project Lana came from observing Vietnam’s largest women’s forum, Web Tre Tho. “It started out as a forum for moms and pregnant women to share and discuss about pregnancy and raising children,” Vuong says. “Then it became more than that. The women started to share their experiences about home decoration, cars, bikes, where to go on vacation, and what kinds of things you can do with family.”

Web Tre Tho has 1 million members and 4 million unique visitors a month. Vuong says he thought this would be the perfect market for e-commerce, so he started Project Lana 10 months ago.

“Many of us in the tech community don’t know what women want,” says Vuong, who grew up in Silicon Valley and used to work for a chip manufacturer in the United States. “Women in Vietnam do most of the buying, most stores target women. They make decisions on purchases and also on their kids and what to buy for the home.

Now the company has three websites, Foreva, Be Yeu, and Lam Dieu. Foreva sells inexpensive lingerie, underwear, swimwear and sleepwear. Be Yeu sells baby products and Lam Dieu sells beauty products.

While Vuong says he thinks Project Lana is positioned to do well in the Vietnamese market, it still will take a lot of time to get in the black. As for the tech industry as a whole, he sees a lot of potential.

“The downside is a lot of people still need a lot of experience, but the entrepreneurial spirit is very strong in Vietnam,” he says. “As long as there is a house with a street where people pass by, they’ll try to sell you something.”

That’s what happened in India and China.”

In the meantime, companies like KMS are paving the way. Hung agrees that finding well-trained staff can be difficult, and dealing with common annoyances like losing internet connections, which he worries will cause clients to go elsewhere, is frustrating. But he is still optimistic, both for his company and the industry at large in Vietnam.

“As long as we have good people we can have good business, and that’s how we can

contribute to this country,” he says. “Eventually it’s not just going to be a few companies, but a whole community, and KMS needs to be part of that story.”

In another part of town and in a different part of Vietnam’s technology industry, Le Hong Minh sits in the lofty headquarters of VNG in District 11. As the CEO and cofounder of Vinagame, later rebranded as VNG for the international market, Minh tells me he too believes the knowledge brought by

foreign companies is vital to the success of the industry.

“One of the reasons the private sector has been flourishing in Vietnam for the past 20 years is because of market opportunities,” Minh says. “One of the biggest influencing factors has been the appearance of multinational companies.”

Vinagame launched in 2004 as an online game company, at a time when few Vietnamese had access to the internet and Vietnamasialife HCMC 25

TRY, TRY AGAIN Emobi Games is another Vietnamese startup trying to make it in the global technology market. Last year the company appeared on international radar after it released 7554, the first Vietnamese PC game to be built with modern 3D graphics.

The game is a Call of Duty-style shooter that recreates the famous 1954 battle at Dien Bien Phu in northern Vietnam that sent the French packing and ended nearly 70 years of colonisation.

The game made headlines in Vietnam and abroad, but has since been a financial flop Emobi’s goal was to sell 100,000 copies, says Nguyen Huy Hoang, a former architect and now Emobi’s vice director and head of the art department. But they didn’t come close, losing half a million dollars in the process.

“That loss brought us to a very critical point,” Hoang says in a phone interview from Emobi’s office in Hanoi. “It’s very lucky that we can stand until now. It was very difficult for us.”

Although the game didn’t make money, Hoang feels the release was still a success, and investors agreed.

“We didn’t have commercial success, but we were successful in making a brand and showing we can create good-quality video games, so they [investors] wanted to give us another try,” he says.

Emobi just released their second PC game, 2112, an online sci-fi strategy game, but they’ve had trouble getting players for this as well, and are still far from their goal of 2,000 users.

Hoang says this could be because the local market doesn’t seem to be interested in these games. For one, most PC owners here don’t have machines powerful enough to handle the graphics for the game. Local gamers, and publishers who can license them cheaply, also tend to favour Chinese-style games. He adds that since it is still new and evolving, the game is far from perfect and turned off a lot of international customers.

But Hoang says Emobi hasn’t lost hope. Right now they are working on getting out mobile games that should bring in enough money to turn a profit. Though this is already a saturated area of the Vietnamese market, Emobi thinks they can compete and will be able to use these profits to fund larger projects — ones the whole company feels passionate about.

“We all believe that [Emobi will be successful], which is why we keep doing this kind of work,” Hoang says. “The income isn’t very good, but we are still working on this because we believe one day we will be the best and we will earn what we deserve.”

Emobi's new online game, 2112.

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'Internet technology is a global business.

The bar is really high and we have to use local resources to reach that bar.'

-Le Hong Minh, CEO of online game developer VNG

ese internet companies were non existent.

Fast forward to 2013 and there are nearly 31 million internet users in the country of 90 million, and VNG’s popular music downloading site, Zing, is the sixth most visited website in Vietnam, according to the Associated Press.

Recently Zing has come under fire after the AP reported that the site is a popular way for users to download and share music and movies illegally, and that the US Embassy was using Zing Me, a VNG-owned social networking site, to reach out to young Vietnamese. This prompted Coca-Cola and Samsung to pull their ads from the site, according to the AP. But the local market isn’t as concerned about piracy. VNG launched Zing Me in 2009, and it wasn’t until October of last year that Facebook users surpassed it, with 8.5 million users compared to Zing Me’s 8.4 million. Now Facebook is at 12 million users in Vietnam, according to social media agency We Are Social.

Despite Facebook dominating the social networking market in Vietnam, VNG is still one of the largest internet companies, if

Photo by Christian Berg

not the largest, in the country, with roughly 2,000 employees and more than $100 million in profit last year.

Now Minh says in addition to their online games, VNG is focusing on launching mobile apps and games, both domestically and globally. They’ve recently launched a game in Japan and a mobile messaging app called Zalo. Right now Zalo has users in 18 countries, and they plan to launch an English version of it soon.

While the challenges for the domestic industry are numerous, including regulation and public perception, Minh too thinks getting trained employees is one of the biggest.

“Internet technology is a global business,” he says. “The bar is really high and we have to use local resources to reach that bar.

We’re [internet companies in Vietnam] not focusing on the fundamentals. We really need to push our people to focus on the basics and convince people that it’s not just worth their money, but their time.”

Minh also says he feels success in the industry doesn’t only come from technical ability and skill, but also being passionate

about the job and leaving a legacy for others to follow.

“We have a simple mission: When people think of the internet, we want them to think of us,” he says.

VNG may not pop into Nguyen Tuan Son’s mind when he thinks of the internet, but he does share Minh’s passion. Son, 27, is the founder and CEO of Kleii, a Dropboxlike cloud computing platform that allows users to stream data and sync it across devices. That means you can upload music or movies to Kleii from your laptop and access them somewhere else with your smartphone or tablet.

When asked why he chose cloud computing, Son says, “I think it’s a trend of the future. I wanted to make something different. Most Vietnam startups are doing websites or e-commerce. I wanted to make something at a higher level. Now a lot of people know that Kleii, and Vietnam, can do high-tech stuff also.”

It’s an ambitious project for the young team of 12 developers — even the name, Kleii, which means “glory” in ancient Greek, is telling — but since launching seven months ago, they already have more than 700,000 users, from Southeast Asia to South America. The company will be launching a Portuguese version soon to accommodate the Brazilian market.

Kleii is the first company to move to a new development for tech companies in Binh Duong, about an hour north of Ho Chi Minh City. They are being financed by BTIC, a venture capital firm that provides facilities and seed funding to promising tech startups.

Young companies like Kleii and moneymaking corporations like VNG are both doing their part to push the industry forward.

Vietnam has a lot of room for improvement, including with education, training, and especially venture capital. However the drive is there.

“Vietnam has more hunger [than other countries in the region], more need to win,” says Anh-Minh Do, a blogger who covers Vietnam’s tech industry for Tech in Asia, an online technology news startup based in Singapore. “If you look at the region, Vietnamese are much more competitive among each other. Vietnamese are very proud of being Vietnamese.” asialife HCMC 27

Katori Vietnam, the country's first and only official training centre for katori shinto-ryu, brings traditional Japanese swordsmanship to Saigon. By Dana Filek-Gibson.

Photos by Fred Wissink.

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It's just after 8am on a Saturday morning, and all around us the sun has announced itself on the stone path outside the dojo. My training partner, Cong, crosses his wooden sword over mine.

“Now,” he says, “I'm your enemy.” Considering the patience with which he's corrected my every mistake, I take this as a joke. But when I look up, the Cong I met earlier this morning has disappeared. In his place, a wide-eyed stranger stares me down from across our weapons.

The new Cong lunges forward and our wood blades connect with a dull thud. He attacks and I step aside, turning my sword to deflect him. Darting left as he advances, I pivot and, with all the power in my arms, bring the sword down over his head.

Cong stops me inches from his skull, and I relax my grip, suddenly aware of the adrenaline coursing through my body.

When I step back, the quiet, patient Cong has reappeared, half-smiling as he returns his sword to its imaginary sheath, thanks me in Japanese, and walks away.

In addition to Cong, four other students have come to the dojo this morning to practice katori shinto-ryu, one of Japan's oldest form of martial arts.

Once used to prepare samurai warriors for battle, this style of Japanese swordsmanship dates back to 1460 and includes training in empty-hand combat as well as long and short swords, spear, staff, glaive, and shuriken — or thrown object — techniques. Officially recognised by the Japanese government as a cultural treasure of the country, the martial art remains largely unchanged despite its roughly 550-year history. Students still are required to take a blood oath in order to train in the martial art, and the techniques that Cong and I use to kill each other theoretically are the same ones responsible for countless actual deaths centuries ago.

Katori shinto-ryu found its way into Vietnam through Malte Stokhof, a Dutch expat who has lived in the country on and off since 2000. An avid martial artist, Stokhof trained

in judo and aikido as well as Thai and English boxing before discovering katori shinto-ryu in 2006. After spending almost three months at a Japanese dojo in 2007, where he trained intensively under the supervision of Otake sensei, the current head master of the martial art, Stokhof was hooked.

“I came back basically every year, once or twice,” he says.

But his location presented an unusual challenge. “Because I lived in Vietnam I didn't have the opportunity to train much with a partner, so I had to do it by myself.”

On a return trip to Japan in 2011, Stokhof explained his predicament to Otake sensei. After much deliberation, the head master presented Stokhof with a

teacher's license and the permission to set up a dojo. Stokhof then began seeking potential students, a difficult task because katori shinto-ryu remains quite unknown in Vietnam.

“After one week, I found out it's totally amazing,” says Phan Thanh Tung, one of Stokhof’s first students. “I really enjoy the art inside katori. It's not just like moving and [you] don't understand anything. [In] katori, there's no, you know, like meaningless movement.”

Another Katori Vietnam member, Pham Dinh Bang says, “The reason [katori shintoryu]'s stayed long, I think it's because it's applicable. When you are training, you just do your job. It's just, follow them and see their error so that we

Once used to prepare samurai warriors for battle, this style of Japanese swordsmanship dates back to 1460 and includes training in empty-hand combat as well as long and short swords, spear, staff, glaive, and shuriken — or thrown object — techniques.

Actor Johnny Nguyen owns the Lien Phong Training Centre, where Malte Stokhof holds Katori shinto-ryu classes.

can attack them in time. Just like in business life, it's not about you doing your own business, it's also waiting for them to do something and then you attack when they are weak.”

Since its creation in March 2012, Katori Vietnam has grown to 15 members. The group is mostly young men but also includes two female students as well as some older males.

Although growth has been slow, nearly all of Katori Vietnam's original students remain at the dojo, which is owned by action star Johnny Nguyen. Stokhof is optimistic that with more visibility they will continue to attract new members.

“Basically the make-up of different katori shinto-ryu dojo all over the world, there are female students, there are people who start when they're 60, there are people who start when they're 16,” Stokhof says. “That's something I find quite attractive also, the fact that it appeals to many different age groups.”

Since the group's inception, Stokhof and other members have made a habit of visiting other dojos to introduce themselves and encourage cooperation among different martial arts communities.

“The connection between martial arts in Vietnam and foreigners is very low,” Tung says.

“They just train by themselves, and that's why the techniques go down through generations. I really want to connect Vietnam to the international community.”

Drawing upon his extensive connections abroad, Stokhof hopes to bring other martial artists to the country as well.

Katori Vietnam's ultimate goal is to act as a hub for martial arts, connecting dojos within Vietnam to those abroad, and to promote not only the physical benefits but also the culture and history of one of Japan's most storied martial arts.

Katori Vietnam meets on Monday and Wednesday evenings and Saturday mornings at Lien Phong Training Centre, Lang Dai Hoc A, Nguyen Huu Tho, Phuoc Kien Ward, Nha Be. For more information, visit Katorivietnam.org. asialife HCMC 29

Tanya Meftah and Nguyen Ngoc Thanh from the Green Youth Collective.

Two Birds, One Stone Vietnam faces environmental challenges, as well as a deficit of jobs for disadvantaged young people. The Green Youth Collective aims to solve both problems at once. By Michael Tatarski. Photos by Fred Wissink.

Their rooftop garden in District 3 may not look like much yet, but Tanya Meftah and Nguyen Ngoc Thanh are pretty excited about it. They put a month into creating this budding slice of green in a heavily urban environment.

Meftah explained that the garden, contained in a wooden 30 asialife HCMC

frame, consists of several layers: a watertight membrane, fabric, and coconut husks. “We even used rubble collected from construction sites and empty fields around the city,” Meftah says. “It wasn’t easy to get all of this together.”

They dumped a layer of soil on top, and then recently

planted the first seedlings.

Meftah and Thanh are growing beans, okra, spinach, onions and other vegetables.

This garden is the first physical sign that their Green Youth Collective is bearing fruit. The two formed GYC roughly two months ago, along with Leslie Wiener, and Nguyen Thanh

Duoc. The collective aims to provide sustainability training for young people. Wiener, who has years of experience working with charities and NGOs in Vietnam, realised that many of the disadvantaged youth going through those programs weren’t really being prepared for the future.

“I noticed many kids were just being recycled and exploited,” she says. “They were trained to work in a factory where they’ll just repeat the cycle of poverty.”

Programs led by the GYC founders and specialists from around the world will focus on jobs such as building green roofs and walls. “The idea is to offer them an actual career that they can pursue and is sustainable and is great for the environment,” Mefta says.

Funding for these courses isn’t entirely in place yet, but Meftah and Wiener hope to resolve the issue shortly. They also point out that, unlike many organisations, the GYC will accept HIV-positive and disabled trainees.

When asked why they decided to focus on green training, Meftah says, “If you look around Ho Chi Minh City, there are a number of huge issues related to pollution

and environment that need to be addressed and there is infrastructure that isn’t being used. Green roofs and walls are a simple solution to a big problem.”

Wiener, meanwhile, believes that a more environmentallyconscious movement is coming to Vietnam, and she hopes the GYC will ideally place trainees to take advantage of the trend.

Though training hasn’t begun yet, the group already has candidates from orphanages around the city. Once the program begins, participants will learn subjects including urban gardening 101, and how to build and install urban structures. Meftah is quick to point out that the training won’t be confined to the classroom, as the collective will give hands-on practice as well.

Vo Truong Nghia, a prominent Vietnamese architect specialising in sustainable designs, has already agreed to take

on two trainees for a school he is building in Binh Duong province.

Another important aspect of the collective is that over time it will become a social enterprise. Once trainees are up to speed they will transition into employees, and they will be sent to businesses that want green infrastructure.

“We call it a collective because it will be owned as a collective,” Wiener says. “If you are involved you have a share.”

The group believes that they are in the right place at the right time for this type of organisation. Thanh, who helped build the rooftop garden, says that many Vietnamese are used to working with the environment, so they are suited for the training.

In Meftah’s view, “This is an important time because Ho Chi Minh City is developing, so if we can integrate sustainable

ideas now there will be a much larger benefit than in, say, the US, where cities are already extremely built up and it’s harder to change.”

Back at the rooftop garden, Meftah and Thanh say they are looking to the urban future.

“Growing things and working with your environment is actually really old,” Mefta says, but “if we can allow disadvantaged youths to get involved in this they will be at the front of their times.”

After the vegetable plants mature, the GYC members hope to use them for food.

If this experiment goes well, they plan to build two more gardens on the roof and use other types of plants. Already they have gotten requests from people who want to learn how to build their own. Once GYC trainees master the urban garden, they can spread the seed of knowledge to other Vietnamese. asialife HCMC 31

Walking among legends

How I went to Cambodia and learned a lot about Vietnam — from the men who covered it first.

By Lien Hoang.

As serendipity would have it, I was due for a trip to Cambodia at about the same time as a remarkable number of journalists who for decades watched up close as history unfolded.

If you’ve watched Apocalypse Now or The Killing Fields, you have an idea of the men I’m talking about. If you’ve been to the War Remnants Museum on Vo Van Tan Street, you’ve seen the labour of love belonging to one of the men in particular, Tim Page. He created the museum’s war photography exhibit with fellow photo legend Horst Faas, the German editor for the Associated Press who chose to 32 asialife HCMC

publish the controversial image of a naked Vietnamese girl fleeing a napalm attack.

Faas died last year, but not before working with Page to collect hundreds of snapshots

by Vietnamese and foreign photojournalists, which would go on permanent display at the museum as “Requiem”.

While in Phnom Penh recently, I ended up at the same table with Page during an Australian embassy barbecue. He talked about the work it took to get the list of Vietnamese photographers from officials, and then to search the archives for their names and save their

work. He’s written several books and his partner, Mau, laughed about the cheap copies peddled around Southeast Asia.

She saw a copy with the cover of one book, but the contents of another.

A few days earlier, I’d also listened to Page during a journalism panel that followed the screening of Frontline, which features Vietnam War footage by Neil Davis. The Australian videographer was one of the few foreigners at the Presidential Palace when the North Vietnamese tank rammed through the gates in 1975. He’d memorised some lines in Viet-

namese: “Welcome to Saigon, comrade. I’ve been waiting to film the liberation.” After some hesitation, the soldiers let him stay.

Davis also filmed the infamous summary execution of a Viet Cong soldier, and in Frontline, he described preventing a similar killing by turning his videocamera on the would-be shooter.

The panelists talked about their friend Davis (one joked that he’d been quite the looker), and about the region and the state of journalism. In between hits of a joint, Page told the standing-room-only audience

The funeral pyre gave the late King Norodom Sihanouk a grand send off and brought hundreds of journalists, young and seasoned, to Phnom Penh.

Photo by Lien Hoang.

Opposite top: Al Rockoff, on screen, testifies before the Khmer Rouge tribunal in February. As a Vietnam War photographer he also was one of the few foreigners in Phnom Penh when Pol Pot seized power.

Photo by Luke Hunt.

Middle: Veteran war correspondents inaugurate a memorial to colleagues who died or went missing during the fighting in Cambodia from 1970-75. Photo by Rob Carmichael.

Bottom: Tim Page, a war photographer said to be portrayed in Apocolypse Now, addresses a crowd gathered for a memorial to fallen journalists. Photo by Rob Carmichael.

that nothing would ever rival the photos that came out of the Vietnam War. The conflicts since, from Kosovo to Iraq, have not produced the same level of historic and iconic images.

A couple seats down was Jimmy Pringle, a Scottish reporter who’d done two stints in Vietnam for Reuters. When we first met, Pringle reminisced about going into countries long before others could, such as Cuba and North Korea, and even China during the Cultural Revolution. He made friends with Zhou Enlai and broke the story about the “accidental” plane crash that killed Lin Biao

after a failed putsch against Mao Zedong. But first he was in Vietnam, where his office alongside what’s now 30 April park gave him a front-row seat to the Tet Offensive. I asked what it was like to cover the war from the US side, and he corrected me that he wasn’t on either side; I would hear this caveat again and again from other war correspondents.

On the opposite end of the panel was Kurt Hoeffle, who spent decades as a cameraman for CBS before retiring in Hamburg. He covered Cambodia from 1970 to 1971, when he and his crew once had

In between hits of a joint, Page told the standing-room-only audience that nothing would ever rival the photos that came out of the Vietnam War. to talk their way out of a brief capture by the Khmer Rouge.

Later I approached him at the bar to ask about his work since, and Hoeffle recalled travelling everywhere from Bosnia to Rwanda on the job; in both places, he’d helped refugees escape certain death.

He was sitting next to Roland Neveu, a French photographer and one of the journalists to stick around for Pol Pot’s takeover. Currently, the Khmer Rouge Tribunal is using his photos during their prosecution. Together he and I wondered why he hadn’t been called in for testimony.

We wondered because Al Rockoff had testified. He’d entered Vietnam as a US soldier and emerged as a dauntless photographer. Besides the multiple injuries he’d gotten in Vietnam, Rockoff made a name for himself going over the border to capture the Khmer Rouge on film (when they weren’t capturing him).

He was asked to testify because, like Neveu, he’d hung around the French embassy after the fall of Phnom Penh.

And today, as with a few other journalists of his time, he continues to record the region’s history. asialife HCMC 33

Life After Tumor

Almost anything seemed possible for a Vietnamese man in Da Lat after he had a 200-pound tumor removed. Then reality set in. Words and photos by Lien Hoang.

Hunched over on his only leg like a tortoise, Nguyen Duy Hai inhales his fifth or sixth cigarette and stares at the television because there is nothing else to do.

He has lost weight, his eyes have sallowed, and the sun has toughened his now leathery 34 asialife HCMC

skin. Hai is a far different man from the one who made international headlines last year, when doctors severed a 200-pound tumor from his leg.

At the time, all the major US news networks, along with BBC, The Huffington Post, and the Discovery Channel, car-

ried the success story of Hai’s operation. He recalls going into the procedure with his mind at peace. After it ended, he reached out to where the cancer had been, the one that used to occupy most of his bed, and was happy to feel nothing at the end of his fingertips. He’d

spent the better part of his life waiting for death; now he could look forward to possibility.

“After his surgery, I was so happy,” his mother, Nguyen Thi Cho Con, tells me in Vietnamese at the house in Da Lat where she looks after Hai.

But after every climax comes a drop. The first dip happened when Hai, 32, realised he couldn’t go to work repairing cellphones. He’d enjoyed fiddling with the devices for much of his bedridden years, and figured he could finally make a business of it now that the operation had rendered him mobile.

It would have been the first job of his life. Instead, Hai found that too often his hands would shake uncontrollably, so he gave up the enterprise. “I can’t do anything,” Hai says, picking at the skin around his fingernails and palms.

The second blow came in autumn, when the US consulate in Ho Chi Minh City rejected his visa application. Florida-based Tree of Life Foundation International will pay for a prosthetic leg to replace the one Hai lost during a previous surgery. But that requires he fly to Florida.

The boilerplate in the rejection letter explains, "Today, you are ineligible for a nonimmigrant visa because you either did not demonstrate strong ties outside the United States or were unable to demonstrate that your activities in the US would be consistent with the intended visa category.”

Perhaps it doesn’t help that Hai’s sister, Nguyen Chu Thi Minh, already lives in Florida as a manicurist. The family ties would make it easy for Hai to stay in the country after the operation, and that generally makes immigration officers wary.

“Stay there for what?” he says. “I have no friends there. I don’t know anything. And it’s probably boring.”

When asked why Hai’s application was declined, a spokesman told AsiaLIFE by email, “The US Consulate in Ho Chi

incline. Outside, a neighbour trims a tree with a knife attached to a switch, while a hen warms her four chicks with a wall of feathers in the cool of the evening.

Hai doesn’t sleep much, but watches comedies on a flatscreen Panasonic or listens to music in bed. His hands, which earlier were fidgeting with a toothpick, a cellphone, and then a lighter, have moved onto a wedding invitation, as he chews on the string removed from the envelope. The occasional wedding or birthday, and coffee

'I figure I must have done something in a past life, and now I’m paying for it.'

Nguyen Duy Hai

Minh City does not comment on individual visa cases, due to privacy concerns.”

Hai, who stands at about four feet with the support of a metal walker, has resigned himself to a mostly sedentary existence.

It’s a pain to get to his small house among Da Lat’s temperate mountains. Pedestrians must navigate two steep flights of steps chiseled into the stony hillside, while motorbikers have to edge down the precarious

with friends two or three times a week, punctuate a restless life otherwise spent inside meloncoloured walls.

Two years ago, with the tumor, he couldn’t do any of those things. And roughly a decade before that, he stopped wanting to. The cancer was still small enough that he could walk through the streets, but big enough to attract stares from strangers who said it was “ghe”, ghastly.

Things were different in the immediate aftermath of the surgery in Ho Chi Minh City last year. He returned home to a victor’s welcome in Da Lat, where neighbours would pop in to ask how he was doing or shuttle him around town by motorbike.

Now maybe he’ll open a tap hoa, one of those ubiquitous, lowkey convenience shops, if he can build up the capital. A guest jokes that Hai could be a cab driver. “Oh, you talk a lot!” his mother says with good humour.

Hai taps a cigarette on the box that contained it. The guest says he must cut back. “I’m sad so I smoke,” Hai responds between puffs. “I used to not smoke so much. It’s mostly in the past few years.”

Looking over to the hallway that leads out of the living room, I notice figures of Jesus and Mary standing behind a polished wooden cross.

“Are you Christian?” I ask.

Yes. He used to go to church regularly.

“Do you ask why this happened to you?”

No. He doesn’t hold it against anyone and prays for good health. “I figure I must have done something in a past life,” Hai says, “and now I’m paying for it.” asialife HCMC 35

In northern Ninh Binh province, travellers can row themselves through marshes and limestone cliffs, or watch professionals do it with their feet. Words and photos by Lien Hoang.

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D

riving into Ninh Binh province, it’s hard to miss the goats. They’re plastered on banners advertising lunch, they roam the cliffs, they nibble on trash in the parking lots. And they’re a sign that this locale, 90 minutes south of Hanoi, has retained its rustic charm such that goats can continue to coexist alongside people.

Tourists still are rare enough in Ninh Binh that locals gawk when a busload of them drives past. The bus takes us to Van Long, a sprawling $30-a-night resort of mediocre food, fresh

fruit trees, lotus ponds, and tolerable rooms that would have been empty if not for our group.

From there we walk down the road to dam Van Long, an acceptable consolation prize if you don’t go to Ha Long Bay, or have been there already and want an alternative. Barefoot women wait in their bamboo boats, reachable by the embankment’s stone steps leading from the road. For VND 90,000, the women take pairs of travellers on an hour-long tour of quiet marshland and limestone giants sitting under the fog. As

we float past, colours of white and clay start to show through the dark grey rock, cut by harsh lines but round tops.

Thirty minutes would suffice for the excursion. If you get bored (or even if you don’t), the most entertaining thing you can do is relieve the women rowers and try the oars out for size. It’s not as hard as it looks; or maybe it just seemed easy to me because the skilled woman continued to push along with a bamboo rod even as I was paddling. There are so few visitors, or people at all, in this placid swamp that you can make just about any request to the casual guides.

We drift by blue dragonflies, lily pads, and tombstones said to mark the resting places of war dead. Most interesting to the uninitiated are pink clusters

Unfortunately, the VND 80,000 boat rides last 90 minutes and retrace their paths, rather than following a circle so that tourists can view new terrain. But the trips are enjoyable, offering most of what’s available in Van Long, and then some. The rowers in these metal boats are even more impressive, usually rotating the paddles with their feet rather than hands.

Coming across bridges, branches, and caves, we are ducking constantly but not enough to lose the fun of novelty. The caves here are deeper and more extensive, the final one opening out into a small basin where everyone turns back, but not before being goaded by snack vendors. On the return trip, the pair of rowers in our boat also makes sure to push a souvenir or two.

In the marshes, pink clusters cling to the reeds and the rock walls: They’re the eggs of freshwater snails. that cling to the reeds and the rock walls — little did I know they are the eggs of freshwater snails. Emerging from the mist, we arrive at skeletal rock formations, in which time and water have carved misshapen holes. In some places the water has cut deep enough into the crags that they become small caves for brief entry.

For foreigners, the best bet for an English-speaking guide is at another marshy adventure 8km away in Tam Coc. Still sparsely populated, Tam Coc proves slightly more popular with, and therefore convenient for, travellers to Ninh Binh.

Before getting back on terra firma, we pass by a temple on a hill, fishermen waist-deep and catching their livelihood with woven baskets, and low-hanging branches stretching out from small forests where chickens and other unexpected signs of life dwell. A restaurant is under construction on a manmade island, so we spend lunch back on the mainland at The Long.

The restaurant also offers $10 cooking classes for the dishes of your choice, buffalo car tours (as in, transportation pulled by buffalo), and handmade scarves that remind you Vietnam isn’t all tropical. asialife HCMC 37

Traversing the

Tatai

A trip to the Tatai river in Cambodia's Koh Kong province offers a unique embrace with nature and adrenalin.

Words and photos by Bridget Di Certo.

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Curving softly through the world-famous Cardamom Mountains in Koh Kong province, the Tatai River is clear and warm. It stretches from the dramatic mountains in the province’s northeast to the picturesque mangrove flats of the western seaboard, occasionally splitting into tributaries and lake-like shallows.

The tidal waterway, which is several hundred metres wide and about 20 metres deep for the majority of its course, alternates from salt to fresh water throughout each day — creating a layered phenomenon with cool water at the surface and warm water running beneath. A mild current makes it a perfect site for water-based activities.

“It’s pretty unique here, there are only two places with mountain ranges in Cambodia, and Koh Kong is one of those,” says Lois Woodward, a wilderness activities expert based at local eco-resort Rainbow Lodge.

“We are on the edge of the Cardamom Mountains, which is the largest surviving rainforest [in Southeast Asia] now.

The community is very reliant on nature here, still very in touch with fishing and farming,” she adds.

With accommodation limited near the weaving Tatai, Rainbow Lodge provides access to a range of activities. Guides can lead visitors through prime rainforest, pointing out birds, wildlife and rare flora along secluded tracks.

A wide variety of berries and other fruit line the way and trekkers can even spot the jungle’s namesake — the cardamom spice — in bright green, fingerlength pods. It grows wild alongside green ‘jungle chillis’ that mature naturally in the soft, fertile soil.

With paths about one-person wide, trails often succumb to the overwhelming power of aggressive tropical jungle and guides carry machetes to clear bamboo or new branches. While there are some tricky root obstacles and the odd low-hanging branch to scramble under, a hike through the Cardamoms is suitable for almost every age and level of fitness, apart from a short, steep climb at the beginning of a trek.

“In reality we don’t know how much longer it will be here,” Woodward says of the wild forest, which sees poachers and loggers alike coming to claim spoils. “There is a wealth of different wildlife you don’t find in other places. I spotted a

baby sun bear once, but didn’t hang around for mum to come back.”

There are also a large variety of snakes, some venomous, in the area during wet season.

The golden tree snake, part of a family of ‘flying snakes’, has the ability to jump from tree to tree.

Lasting for two, five or eight hours, the treks conclude at the Tatai waterfalls — a series of steep rapids that intermittently pool in naturally formed jacuzzilike hollows. In wet season, the rocky enclave is bursting with gushing rapids and is a popular spot with local visitors. Nestle into one of the smaller falls for a one-of-a-kind back, neck and shoulder massage.

For bird enthusiasts the Cardamoms prove a rare haven for precious wildlife, while a guided or unguided kayaking adventure along the gentle flow of the Tatai can reveal secret inlets and tributaries perfect for exploring.

Woodward’s background is in wilderness therapy, a form of social intervention for young and at-risk people that helps them develop confidence, trust and social skills in an outdoor environment. From this experience, she is developing a range of activities in the

Tatai area focused on children and young adults, such as rock scrambling and orienteering courses.

As well as kayaking, swimming and boat cruises, visitors can camp overnight in hammocks at the Tatai waterfalls.

“We set them up with a BBQ and bottle of wine,” Woodward says, accenting the ready availability of creature comforts, despite the wild setting.

“Because it’s less developed, you can have that experience of being in nature. It’s quiet — you can come away and have a good night’s sleep. The animals are the first sound you hear, not the traffic.”

The Cardamoms are tropical and humid all year round, so bring plenty of insect repellant.

Long pants, a long-sleeved shirt and thick, high socks are a must for trekking. Use additional insect repellant to avoid leeches and other jungle insects. Leeches are endemic to the Cardamoms, but numbers dwindle during dry season. Found under moist leaf litter, the leeches are only a few centimetres long and more of a nuisance than anything else.

Modest swimwear is encouraged for the Tatai waterfalls, as it is a popular picnicking spot for the local communities.

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Birth of the banh mi I don’t remember what bar I was in, but an Aussie elbowbender once observed to me, “Only the Americans know how to make a good sandwich.” Argue with him if you like but, as a student in Spain, a journalist in Oz and a bum in many ports of call, I have found this largely to be true.

Indeed, most of the world makes a pretty simple sanny.

In general it’s just a bit of meat and bread and precious little else. I recall in Madrid, when going to lunch between classes, I was dismayed at the paucity of a ham or cheese sandwich that was nothing but the star ingredient on a roll. Hamless cheese and cheeseless ham sandwiches they were. I was shocked at the absence of even a dollop of mustard, a schmear of mayo, and not even the ghost of a pickle, a tired leaf of lettuce or a thin slice of tomato.

And no bag of chips. The deli master’s art did not exist in Iberia — nor, it long seemed, anywhere else outside the United States.

But then I came to Vietnam, where sandwiches can be so artful that the term “banh mi” was inducted into the Oxford English Dictionary in 2011.

(Of course this says nothing about the Englishman’s record vis a vis the sandwich. The Earl of Sandwich himself took it simply as roast beef on a bun.) Here in Vietnam we all know the pleasure to be had from the street-side seller who gives us her (it’s almost always a her) usual best, or lets us pick this and that to our own taste. Rashers of ham, thick spreads of pate, fish cake, roast pork, fresh vegetables, pickled vegetables, herbs, chilli sauce, nouc mam, mustard and mayo b’God, and a triangle of Laughing Cow cheese if you like. And all of that on the uniquely Viet40 asialife HCMC

namese baguette known as the banh mi, with its characteristic thin and crunchy crust without and its lighter-than-air crumb within. The resulting creation is now a banh mi thit, loosely translated as “meat sandwich”.

It was the French Empire that brought the baguette to Vietnam. The local folk originally called the torpedo shaped bread banh tay, which means “western cake”. Later, as they perfected their way of producing it, the name changed to banh mi, meaning “wheat cake”. That should clear up a common confusion about its recipe. Many people think it’s made from rice flour, but, as the name implies, banh mi generally are made from wheat flour. On occasion, as a cost-

But then, as the story goes, an epiphany occurred a few decades later. In 1954 French rule ended, Vietnam was divided, and many northerners, among them shopkeepers and restaurateurs, moved south for the duration. The family of Mrs Nguyen Thi Tinh was among them. They had been purveyors of supplies to restaurants and operators of a small bakery. Arriving in Saigon in 1956 they set about making a living in their old way. Either things didn’t go as planned, or they saw an opportunity, or both. They started selling baguette sandwiches at a little shop on Nguyen Dinh Chieu in District 3. But recognising the southern preference for more merriment in the mouth, more zing, more pizazz, more

Recognising the southern preference for more merriment in the mouth, more zing, more pizazz, more sugar and spice, they began adding to the simple package. It culminated in the banh mi thit that we know today. saving measure, rice flour is included in the dough, but the resulting texture isn’t favoured by most consumers. There isn’t enough gluten in rice flour for the airy crumb, and the Dutch crunch-like crust just doesn’t come off.

In the beginning, the banh tay was an exotic food for the rich.

They dipped it in sweetened milk, or used it to sop up French sauces or the gravy in a stew, as they do today. The first written references I’ve been able to find of sandwiches made from banh mi go back to the 1920s. Alas, it was food the Earl of Sandwich would have recognised. Popularised in the north, it was just a snack of meat and bread, usually taken on the go.

sugar and spice, they began adding to the simple package.

It culminated in the banh mi thit that we know today. And that was where the 2011 entry into OED fame began.

In 1960 the family moved around the corner to 53 Cao Thang Street, where they continue today under the name Hoa Ma. The faithful will tell you that it is the first shop of its kind in the city. Certainly it is the oldest continuous such shop and looks it. By which, of course, I mean it has a lot of character. It’s a very small joint, at the head of an alley. In addition to the super sanny to go, you can get ham and eggs to eat on site. But if you go, go early. They open at 6am and close no later than noon. OED be damned.

Vesper Though it is located along one of the busiest streets in the city, Vesper is a great place to get away from the chaos of life outside. The dark windows, comfortable seats, and intimate lighting of this tapas and cocktail lounge make for a relaxed vibe.

Opened in mid-December and run by Andreas Ertle, the man behind Cepage, Vesper takes its name from the martini made famous by James Bond in Casino Royale. Unsurprisingly, given this influence, Vesper has an extensive, creative selection of cocktails.

The lunchtime menu is fairly

A cocktail and tapas bar serving food and drink along the river.

By Michael Tatarski. Photos by Fred Wissink.

standard, with burgers and sandwiches on offer, but at night the creative tapas menu comes to life. Though Ertle says the drinks are the focus at Vesper, it is clear that some serious effort goes into creating the food.

The one-page tapas menu features a wide range of options, with prices running from VND 75,000 to VND 250,000. We began with greens and soy beans, asparagus and sesame dressing (VND 90,000). The greens were fresh and pleasingly crisp, and the smooth, creamy dressing added a slightly acidic taste.

Next was the truffle-infused

miso soup (VND 75,000). This rich, hearty broth was unlike any miso soup I’ve had before, and the flavour was simply decadent. We then tried the blue swimmer crab salad (VND 90,000), which is served on the half shell. The fresh, light crab meat was perfectly spiced.

The salmon belly ceviche comes with a poached egg and keta caviar (VND 95,000). This layered, beautifully presented dish had a complex flavour, the earthy yoke of the egg mixing with the fresh salmon and delicate caviar. This was a prime example of the creativity going on in the kitchen.

We ended our meal with two meaty dishes: thinly-sliced roast beef (VND 150,000) and roasted pork belly with soy and mirin sauce and horseradish (VND 130,000). The roast beef — served with a helping of crispy potato cubes — was pink in the middle, as it should be, and rich in taste.

The pork belly was so tender it could be eaten with a spoon, and finished off a well-executed meal.

Ground floor Landmark building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 09 07 66 36 49 10am-late Monday to Saturday asialife HCMC 41

Central Parc Banh Mi Tucked down an alley across from 30/4 park, Central Parc Banh Mi is a compact restaurant that offers what it calls New York-style sandwiches.

The layout is simple, with a few tables set up outside and stools lining a wooden counter that wraps around the interior. The casual atmosphere is similar to that of an American deli, not a standard sit-down restaurant.

Prints of the New Yorker magazine covers adorn the walls, and stacks of magazines are available for customers to peruse. Like Au Parc, its sister restaurant, Central Parc offers several types of sandwiches.

The menu is broken into sec42 asialife HCMC

tions containing regular and whole wheat baguettes, wraps, focaccia, pain brioche and bagels. Prices range from VND 45,000 to VND 115,000, and the options vary from vegetarian to carnivorous.

We decided to start with the pink roast beef with paprika aioli potato salad (VND 90,000) on a whole wheat baguette.

Roast beef is rare here in Ho Chi Minh City, and this is among the best available.

Tender and succulent, the beef almost melts in your mouth, just like it should in a good deli sandwich. The potato salad added some zest, and we were off to a good start.

Fresh sandwiches and New York-inspired decor.

By Michael Tatarski. Photos by Fred Wissink.

Then we split the slow cooked pulled pork with tricoloured coleslaw on focaccia (VND 80,000). Light and fluffy, the focaccia is baked daily on the premises, along with all the other breads. The excellent coleslaw, a topping that is regularly bungled in Saigon, added a tangy kick. The pork, like the roast beef, was juicy, tender and full of flavour.

Finally the pan bagnat (VND 95,000) features tuna, tomato, red onion, hard-boiled egg, olives and basil with balsamic vinaigrette on a baguette. The shredded tuna was fresh, and the other ingredients worked to create a complex flavour. This

sandwich would be great for a light meal.

Central Parc’s in-house bakery also makes bread, pasta, cookies and cakes, among other treats, that can be ordered 24 hours in advance.

Prices vary widely, from VND 8,000 for a single focaccia bun to VND 750,000 for a cappuccino cheesecake for 10 people.

Free delivery is available for Districts 1 and 3, with no minimum order.

7bis Han Thuyen, D1 08 38 22 85 49 8am-6pm Monday to Saturday Facebook.com/CentralParcBanhMiSaigon

…hum Vegetarian When entering …hum Vegetarian, you’ll wonder if you’re still on Vo Van Tan in District 3.

Beyond the roar of motorbikes is a lush, tranquil courtyard that gives way to a three-tiered, Zen villa. The restaurant is pacified by mahogany tables, mountainslate floors, jewel-toned curtains and wide brick walls decorated with Oriental paintings, vases and artifacts.

The restaurant, which derives its name from the Buddhist mantra “om mani padme hum” or “peace comes from within”, serves health-conscious fare by detailing the nutritious properties of ingredients like lotus, sesame, mushrooms, brown rice,

A vegetarian retreat in District 3 channels peace and comfort through tasty, health-pampering dishes. By Ruben Luong.

Photos by Fred Wissink.

homemade tofu and seaweed.

Mostly Vietnamese and Thaiinspired, it features breakfast from VND 45,000 to VND 50,000, while salads, soups and main courses range from VND 45,000 to VND 80,000.

On a hot Saturday afternoon, after sipping on a citrus-like concoction of bitter gourd, pineapple and kumquat (VND 50,000), we started with a winged bean salad (VND 65,000). Noted on the menu for its high source of protein and calcium, the salad’s garden of verdant winged beans, crispy tofu, fried shallot, cashews and sliced boiled egg was light and crunchy, every bite drenched in a spicy and sour dressing.

The highlight of our meal was the exquisitely prepared brown rice wrapped in lotus leaf (VND 90,000), which the restaurant says is abundant in minerals that regulate blood sugar. The fresh medley of lotus seed, carrot, asparagus and shiitake mushroom steamed in a moist lotus leaf was pleasant with the wholesome brown rice.

We finished with a hearty serving of steamed mushrooms in coconut (VND 80,000).

Lingzhi mushrooms fused with the juices of lemon leaves, eggs and chilli proved to be a rich, mouthwatering stew served piping hot inside a hollowed coconut. Natural sweet slabs of

coconut flesh easily scraped off the inner shell and added to the concentrated creaminess of the lingzhi.

For dessert, we sampled martini glasses filled with cubed milky jelly mixed with mango, water chestnut coated in green pandan and passion fruit (VND 40,000), intended to equalize body temperature. Its tart syrup was a good chaser to our relaxing, nourishing meal. By the end, we wondered if there was a spa upstairs.

32 Vo Van Tan, D3 84 39 30 38 19 7.00am-10.00pm, seven days Hum-vegetarian.vn asialife HCMC 43

A licensed English tattoo artist has opened his own studio in District 2, ushering in an element of professionalism for the local ink scene. By Chris Mueller. Photos by Fred Wissink.

In a dark alley, Lee Holman might be an intimidating sight.

The tattoos covering his body and face create a menacing air, but he is friendly as he welcomes me to his tattoo shop in District 2.

Holman has lived in Vietnam for four years, working at bars and tattooing out of his home in Ho Chi Minh City. But just three months ago, he opened Exile Ink with business partner Matt Ayres. The studio is arguably the only tattoo shop in the country that could compete at international standards. Holman, from Plymouth, England, has more than 20 years of experience as a tattoo artist, and is licensed in the United Kingdom.

The studio itself is immaculate. With freshly painted walls and clean floors, Exile Ink is like any studio in the west. No ashtrays full of cigarettes or open bottles of whisky next to the ink here, a common sight at tattoo parlors in the city.

“What we offer is European certified artists operating to Euro health codes and standards,” Ayres wrote by email from an offshore oil rig where he works.

“We aim to provide the standard of service you get in a studio in Europe, the States or elsewhere.”

The professionalism is clear.

Everything from the custommade tattoo guns to the ink and needles are clean and sterilised.

They get the ink directly from a UK supplier, ensuring its quality and, more importantly, its authenticity.

But that was only after a few bumps in the road. Before they opened, Holman says they found a tattoo supply dealer in District 9 that claimed to have real equipment, and they decided to try it. They bought well-known ink brands that appeared to have identical labels to the real inks they were used to. Knowing there was a chance the ink could be fake, Holman’s girlfriend and Ayres volunteered to be guinea pigs. The next day

their new tattoos ballooned.

They had the ink tested and it turned out to have high levels of mercury.

“Now we do not buy tattoo products off anyone in Vietnam,” Holman says.

They also have hospital-grade sterilisation equipment. Safety, cleanliness and quality are Holman’s mantras: “I’ve taken all of the policies [from tattoo studios] in England and brought them here.”

That means he won’t tattoo anyone who is under 18, noticeably on drugs or drunk.

It wasn’t just finding proper supplies that was a challenge, but even finding a place to set up shop.

“Every time we would meet a landlord, they were horrified,” Holman says of local reaction to his and Ayre’s formidable frames and ink-covered skin.

“Most thought we were going to sell drugs or run girls because of the way we look.”

But eventually they landed a

place and got permits to open.

Now business is starting to pick up. Most of the customers are European expats, but to Holman’s surprise, he’s getting a lot of affluent Vietnamese, too — this in a country where many locals still associate inked skin with the mafia and crime.

Holman currently has one Vietnamese apprentice and also plans to bring in guest artists.

Adrian Willard, a former apprentice of Holman’s who went on to become well known in the UK tattoo community, should be arriving at the beginning of this month. Willard specialises in old-school flash art tattoos, and Holman says between the two of them they have a lot to offer.

“We’ve got the old-school knowledge and the artistic ability,” he says.

Exile Ink is at 14M1 Quoc Huong in District 2 and is open from Monday to Saturday, 10am to 8pm.

Call 08 66 75 69 56 to set up an appointment.

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Model: Rolanda Lokey Stylist: Ryan Taylor Photographer: Balazs Maar Makeup: Syna'Styling Hair: The Dollhouse Clothing: Jasmine Boutique Accessories: Paperdolls Balazsmaar.com

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Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

listings

hotel & travel

CON DAO

AIRLINES

Air Asia 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.

Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

Turkish Airlines 8th floor, AB Tower 76A Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3936 0360 www.turkishairlines.com Awarded as the Best Airline in Europe offers the brand new Comfort Class to E conomy class: 46inch leg room, personalised entertainment screen and globally awarded cuisine on-board.

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1

escape

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villas has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.

DALAT

Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Dalat Easy Rider Tours 70 Phan Dinh Phung dalateasyriders@yahoo.com www.dalat-easyrider.com Ride pillion with English-, French- or German-speaking tour guides on motorbike adventures that start in Dalat and snake through mountains, jungles and deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21 days.

HANOI

HO CHI MINH CITY Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues.

Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888

www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

activities Vietnam Vespa Adventures 169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao Tel: 3920 3897 www.vietnamvespaadventures.com Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on classic Vespas.

HOI AN & DANANG

Banyan Tree Lang Co Tel: 84 54 3695 888 The resort is inspired by the artistic heritage of Vietnamese dynasties past, features 32 lagoon pool villas, 17 beach pool villas, an array of eclectic dining experiences from modern Thai cuisine to French specialties, 18-hole championship course designed by Sir Nick Faldo, delivers a golfing experience that can be enjoyed by skilled and novice players alike.

InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Mercure Da Nang's spring package at its Karma spa comes with a full-body massage, followed by a scalp and foot massage for VND 1,090,000. The two-hour session is available until 1 May. The hotel also has daily dim sum buffets with dumplings, noodles, and desserts for VND 350,000.

That becomes VND 400,000 on Fridays, when drinks flow and a live band adds to the al fresco experience. There'll be a special fireworks buffet on 29-30 April for VND 800,000. More at 05 11 37 97 77 7 or Mercure-danang.com.

To celebrate the Thai New Year in style, Novotel Nha Trang’s Square restaurant will serve tom yum gung, som tam, green curry chicken, stir fried beef with basil leaves, and sweet sticky rice with mango. The buffet

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Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

activities

Fireworks Display

Thai New Year

www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

dinner starts at VND 420,000 and runs 6-10pm from 13-15 April. The restaurant will give free drinks to groups of four or more and hold a raffle. If you can’t make it for the festivities, there’s also a buy four buffet vouchers get one free, or buy seven get three free deal. Dishes range from Italian to Asian. Reach them at 05 86 25 69 36.

Going Corporate

Park Hyatt’s Xuan Spa presents a new corporate membership club program, which can be shared by up to five people per company. Benefits include 10 percent off food and beverage in any outlet at the hotel, 20 percent off a la carte spa treatments, and access to the fitness centre and swimming pool. Individual members whose friends or family enroll in the Xuan Spa Club will receive one free month of membership or two complimentary nights at the Hyatt.

Entitlements consist of one complimentary 60-minute spa treatment per month and 10 percent off food and beverage. The spa also has new treatment packages, inquire at Xuanspa.com or 08 38 24 12 34.

Tel: 0511 093 8888 danang.intercontinental.com A world of poetic experiences and jungle-clad romance in a place that cloaks you with luxury. The mastery of traditional Vietnamese design meets modern architectural flair in this distinctive retreat within the dense rainforest of mythical Monkey Mountain.

HUE Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa 112 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3830 240 www.vedanaresorts.com Nestled on the shore of a peaceful and serene lagoon, vedana lagoon resort & spa is ideally situated between the two cities well-known as world heritage sites: hue and hoi an. The resort designed with a stylist harmony between the local traditional culture and a modern art concept with 27 villas, bungalows and 2 houseboats.

NHA TRANG

Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms divided into villas and condos, catering by wel-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito's bar.

PHAN THIET Villa Aria Muine 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 062 3741 660 www.villaariamuine.com Villa Aria Muine is a boutique beach resort in Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan province. Set on a beautiful beachfront in the middle of the Mui Ne strip, the villa combines modern tropical style and French country luxury.

Princess D’Ânnam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan. Tel: 062 3682 222

www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort

SAPA

Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace.

Connection from Hanoi by private train.

MGM Grand Ho Tram Beach Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc District, Ba Ria Vung Tau Tel: +84 8 3528 5286 www.mgmgrandhotrambeach.com MGM Grand Ho Tram Beach is Vietnam’s first large-scale, fully-integrated luxury beach resort and entertainment destination. With beautifully appointed five-star rooms, numerous activities, world-class restaurants, and a luxurious spa, this resort offers guests a premium hospitality experience in a spectacular natural setting.

TRAVEL AGENTS

Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District

Tel: 04 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com Tailor-made itineraries, communitybased tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com SD5-2 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 2761/62 pmh@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specializing in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

Create your own trip

in Vietnam & Cambodia

SCUBA DIVING

Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co. with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services.

VUNG TAU

Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

www.beeninASIA.com

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environment with frequent live music.

Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

listings

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

food & drink BAR RESTAURANTS Alibi 11 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 3240 Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes.

Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains.

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise.  Chilli Pub 104 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 73 01 13 77 An intimate pub on a popular bar street that serves pub grub and its famous bowls of chilli. It also has a pool table, dart boards and TVs for watching sports.

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere.  Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France. Long happy hour half price by glass. Various shisha flavours.

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

9am until 9pm). This, its international food menu and nightly live music makes it one of the liveliest bars around.

Red Lion Pub Saigon 9a Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 08 62 99 13 03 Located down Ngo Van Nam Street, this proper British pub — the first of its kind in Saigon — has four beers on tap, a wide range of bottled beers, spirits and cocktails, and a menu offering iconic British dishes.

Sheridan's Irish House 24 Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8 am.

The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.  Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue. Also does excellent pizza. 

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia.

Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

ZanZBar 41 Dong Du, D1 Funky, modern interiors and varied international breakfast, lunch and dinner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy hours make ZanZBar a great after-work spot.

Open late.

La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.Relaxed

Red Bar 70-72 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 08 22 29 70 17 Tucked behind the Bitexco building, Red has one of the longest happy hours in the city (draught beer for VND 25,000 from

CAFES

feast

If you're in a curry mood, Mojo Cafe is specialising in varieties with lettuce, yoghurt dressing, apples, smoked salmon, or lentils.

Choose from Indian, Thai, or other styles from around Southeast Asia. Or try the layered smoothies or choco mint vanilla milkshake for VND 125,000. Visit the cafe on Dong Khoi Street, or its website, Mojosaigon.com.

The Caravelle's Restaurant Nineteen will mark 30 April and Labour Day with dinner specials for VND 1 million. Saigon Cafe at the Sheraton is celebrating, too, with an international buffet of crepes, salmon Florentine, and Vietnamese curry, plus sparkling wine, for VND 1.2 million. This month the restaurant also will add Italian nights with lasagna, pizza, and tiramisu, while Friday

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Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.  Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.

Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream.

CHINESE Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00.

Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon

broaden your palate with promotions around town

In a Hurry for Curry

Special Buffets

Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118

www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

nights will feature king crab and foie gras, all for VND 980,000.

Flower Crabs

Flower crabs are the star in April at Li Bai restaurant, which will serve the shellfish steamed with shao shing, wok fried, or braised in a clay pot with vermicelli. For more about the restaurant, which continues its Chinese Sunday brunch inside the Sheraton, go to Libaisaigon.com.

Sea Urchins

Deep-sea dining is on the menu this month at Reflections Restaurant, which is inviting the city’s discerning diners to explore the luscious, oceanic flavour of sea urchin — or ‘uni’ — from 13-19 April. A prized delicacy in countries such as Japan, Chile and Italy, the sea urchins at Reflections will be presented in a gourmet four-course menu

highlighting the urchin’s unique taste and texture for VND 1.2 million. A special a la carte menu also will be served throughout the week, featuring items starting at VND 210,000 such as squid ink, angel hair pasta with sea urchin, breadcrumbs and parsley; and sea urchin and crab risotto with green peas. The eatery is inside the Caravelle, 08 38 23 49 99, Caravellehotel.com.

prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

street gourmet

FRENCH

Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior.

Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, pan-fried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

Le Bouchon de Saigon 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 9263 This French diner-style restaurant has an emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous service and a relaxed atmosphere Chefs David Thai an Alexis Melgrani are well known industry figures and this venue can hold its own among the city`s many French restaurants

INDIAN

Banh Tai Yen Banh tai yen is a subtly sweet cake that is made completely from rice flour and quickly deep-fried in hot oil until it has turned dark brown and puffs up around the edges. Tai yen translates to "swallow’s

253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

nest", which the treat, with its curled-up sides and soft middle, resembles.

Banh tai yen is a favourite snack for locals and can be found all over the city for about VND 5,000.

Stephy Thai

king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong.

The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet includes free flow of wine.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef

Ashoka 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1372 33 Tong Huu Dinh (Street 53), D2 Tel: 3744 4177/ 3744 4144 www.ashokaindianrestaurant.com Ashoka is one of the city’s most popular and enduring Indian restaurants with a reputation for good food with wide range of North Indian culinary traditions and service at a reasonable price. Large space for private parties and outdoor catering also available.

Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available. 

INTERNATIONAL Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large

tables and banquette seating. Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Blanchy's Tash 93 - 95 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.blanchystash.com A high-end bar and restaurant with outdoor terrace. With ex-Nobu London Chef at the helm, Blanchy’s offers tapas-like snacks that fuse Japanese and South American influences. Expect great things here from international DJs and renowned mixologists Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients— favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Boomarang Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients— favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Camargue 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 08 35 20 48 88 One of the first western restaurants in Saigon, Camargue offers a great selection of French food and wine in a romantic, rustic French villa.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

El Gaucho 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3825 1879 Cresent Residence 1_12, No. 103 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 A classic Argentine steakhouse where beef is the main attraction. There is still plenty of other options on the menu, in addition to an extensive wine list. Open from 4pm until late every day.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy.  Halal@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 www.halalsaigon.com Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.

Hog's Breath 02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006 The popular Australian eatery's first foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on the ground floor of the Bitexc Financial tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks are the centrpiece of the menu which also includes burgers, seafood and bar snacks.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Set dinner everyday from 5pm.  Koto 151A Hai Ba Trung, D3, Tel: 3934 9151 This is the Saigon arm of the renowned organisation that began in Hanoi a decade ago. Vietnamese food is prepared with innovative twist by young people Koto are helping get a start in the hospitality industry and on a path for a better life.  Le Steak de Saigon 15 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 38 22 45 93 On one of the fancier streets in the centre of District 1, this small steakhouse has limited options, but its set meal, which includes a steak, salad and fries or mashed potatoes for only VND 200,000, is probably one of the better deals in town.

Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australian-

style brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  New York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373 New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.

Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Scott & Binh’s 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat Street, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 094 890 14 65 Bizuhotel.com A friendly, laid back restaurant in Phu My Hung that serves “comfort food with a twist”. Run by American chef Scott Marquis, this small joint offers classic favourites that are consistently well prepared, making it a popular stop for expats and visitors.

Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or fivecourse set menu available.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.  Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal.

Xu Saigon 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com Inspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, the restaurant serves nouveau takes on Vietnamese cuisine.

ITALIAN Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground

Welcome the Weekend in Style at New World Saigon Hotel

Beautifully restful nights, languid mornings, gracious service and delectable dining experiences, all in perfect proximity to the city center. Experience “Weekend Welcome” at New World Saigon Hotel. Why spend just one night when you can stay and play all weekend? From 15 February 2013, check in on either Friday or Saturday and you will receive a second night’s stay completely free. Plus, ease into the weekend with two complimentary cocktails and relax all afternoon with late check-out until 4 p.m.

For further information and to make your reservation, please contact us at +84 8 3824 3734 or send an e-mail to reservations.saigon@newworldhotels.com.

54 asialife HCMC

76 Le Lai Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City tel: +84 8 3822 8888 fax: +84 8 3823 0710 saigon@newwordhotels.com www.saigon.newworldhotels.com Terms and conditions apply

imbibe

The Wine Closure Debate

By Darryl Bethea Natural cork, synthetic cork, or screw cap (Stelvin): Does it really matter? Can you really judge the quality of a wine by its closure?

First let’s look at natural cork. It is made from the bark of cork oak trees, found in the Old World wine regions of Italy, Spain and Portugal. As a natural product it can dry up, break, and be contaminated by a compound called 2,4,6 trichloroanisole, or TCA. By some estimates, up to five to 10 of every 100 bottles of wine are tainted, possibly from a faulty TCA cork.

What are the hints of a wine that has been affected by the cork? Imagine the smell of a damp, musky basement in an old building. It overtakes the wine, and the fruit aromas you would normally find are masked by this overpowering smell, making the wine impossible to drink. This condition knows no boundaries. It can happen to a $6 wine or a $6,000 one, and there is always a possibility the natural cork will taint the wine.

So instead, some winemakers have decided to bottle wine using synthetic corks made from a high-grade thermoplastic. These corks look like the real thing and are less susceptible to breakage because they have more flexibility built in.

They are also fully recyclable, unlike natural cork, which is a dwindling source around the world. Increasingly, New World wineries are using this method.

As natural cork becomes scarcer, I believe many Old World wineries will follow suit.

What about the screw cap?

This method was developed in the late ’60s and adopted in the ’70s as a superior closure. By design, screw caps prevent air leakage, which oxidises the wine. TCA issues are eliminated, and the bottles are easier to open.

The real problem is public perception. Many view screw top wines as inferior, but this is inaccurate. According to a study conducted in 1971, prestige noble wines bottled with Stelvin caps were opened after seven years and were judged as having no discernible difference compared with natural cork closures. In New Zealand and Australia you will find that more than 75 percent of all wines have screw caps.

Given these facts, it is hard to believe that less than 5 percent of all wine produced in the world are closed with a screw cap. It is estimated that 90 percent of us buy wine to consume now or within one year of purchase. Unless you are a collector buying wine to cellar age, Stelvin caps work perfectly.

Natural corks are traditional, but have limitations. The best have a lifespan of roughly 25 years. But I could never wait that long to enjoy a bottle of wine anyway.

Darryl Bethea is Group Sales Manager for Fine Wines of the World and is a certified sommelier from the Court of the Master Sommeliers. Contact Darryl at 09 3378 5005 or email Darryl@finewinesasia. com.

Convivial atmosphere, contemporary Italian food styles and International chefs ...

Take away, corporate functions & special events catered for ...

WE WINE ...

WE DINE Relax in Casa’s casual dining upstairs or downstairs ...

Experience a taste of comfort and converse with our friendly staff ...

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local eats

street gourmet

Chao Muc Chao muc or squid porridge is a savoury delicacy. Shredded dried squid, which has been soaked in water and a little white wine bulks up the dish. In addition to the squid and coagulated blood clots (huyet), the

Bun Rieu Cua

By Tristan Ngo On Phan Boi Chau Street (between Le Loi and Le Thanh Ton), just opposite the east side of Ben Thanh Market, a classic street "ganh" is still in operation. A ganh is a traditional carrying tool made up of a metre-long flat bamboo stick placed on the shoulder with two large baskets hung at either end for balance.

This one serves bun rieu cua (crab noodle soup) and opens around 2pm. Everything is usually sold out by 5pm, before the night vendors open up shop around the market.

Bun rieu is a Vietnamese rice vermicelli soup based mainly on crab, with some fish or shellfish paste for added taste. It is originally from the north, but the south has made it a more signature dish.

Traditionally, this soup comes with freshwater paddy crabs, which are then pounded in a mortar. The crabmeat is then separated and put into a fine mesh cloth. Water is strained through, along with tomato, forming the base of the broth.

This particular vendor serves the soup with the traditional broth, tomatoes, fried tofu, and congealed pig's blood (huyet), all topped with crab

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paste. The broth is flavourful and the crab paste is particularly firm, tasty and arguably the signature part of the dish.

Add the sides of shredded banana flower, bean sprouts, perilla (rau tia to), persicaria (rau ram), Vietnamese balm (rau kinh gioi) and split water spinach stems to bring all the flavours together. This is probably one of the best bun rieu cua in Ho Chi Minh City.

There are a few side street vendors operating across Ben Thanh Market but there is only one that serves bun rieu, so it should be easy to find.

It is situated approximately in the middle of Phan Boi Chau Street, next to the fresh coconut lady. Street vendors are disappearing gradually in Ho Chi Minh City, so take advantage of their sights, sounds and smells while they are still around.

Cost around VND 30,000/ bowl.

Drinks cost around VND 20,000.

Tristan is the chef and owner of The Elbow Room and Skewers, two popular restaurants in District 1. Contact him at ngotristan@yahoo.com

Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts.

Wood-fired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafoodd dishes.

Open daily 10 am until late.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza. 

dish contains finely sliced pigskin, dried shrimp and finger-shaped soufflé batter (chao quay). Egg yolk, bean sprouts and shredded ginger also are added. A bowl goes for about VND 30,000.

Stephy Thai

fare. Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

JAPANESE

Chiisana Hashi River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves authentic Japanese cuisuine including sashimi, sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu.

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

Lucca 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 39 15 36 92 A centrally located trattoria, café and bar that gets lively at lunchtime but has space enough for a mellow meal.

Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com A Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere.

Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request.  Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782 Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes. The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

KOREAN

25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant.

Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi.

Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN

Baan Thai 55 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 5453 If you have been missing the delights of Bangkok nightlife then this restaurant and bar should be for you. The Thai chefs whip up all the traditional dishes you know and love, while in the bar there are a host of drinks and activities to help while away an evening.

Barbecue Garden 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street, D1 Tel: (08) 38 23 33 40 Barbecuegarden.com Popular among locals, expats and tourists, this Vietnamese-style barbecue restaurant serves a wide-range of meat and seafood that can be grilled right at the table, all in a lush, natural outdoor setting.

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street. Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

Thai Express 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338 www.thaiexpress.vn Modern restaurant with a massive menu of Thai specialties served in moderate proportions. The menu inludes chef’s recommendations and background on Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will test your tongue’s threshold.

VEGETARIAN

An Lac Chay 175/4 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 3837 0760 Apropos of the backpacker district, this little restaurant offers no frills and a vast

menu. Though meat dishes are available, it specializes in vegetarian Vietnamese and quirky “backpacker favourites.”  Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Saigon Vegan 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473 Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices.

Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu.

Tib Chay 11 Tran Nhat Duat, D1 Tel: 3843 6460 Intimate spot with a big menu of Vietnamese vegetarian appetisers, salads, soups, rice/noodle mains and desserts.

Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light.

Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE

Banian Tree River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 – 0903 669 252 A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant that serves authentic cuisine.

Offers a set lunch, set dinner, International breakfast is served from 6.30 am - 10.30 am.

Blue Crab 49D Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2008 This seafood restaurant has some of the most well-prepared and cheapest seafood in town. Its menu offers everything from prawns, scallops and lobster to pork ribs and crab, all for rock-bottom prices.

Cha Ca Viet Nam River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves Hanoi specialty Cha Ca—turmeric grilled fish with noodles and dill.

Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired by Euro-Zen. Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food.

Mains go around 80,000 -150,000.

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES

See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

Cloud 9 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3, HCMC (Corner of Turtle Lake Roundabout & Tran Cao Van), Tel: 0948 445544 Recently opened with beautiful déco, this rooftop lounge bar has its stunning views

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master of mixology

at night. Live DJ, great cocktails and desserts. Open 6pm till late.  The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

M52 Bar 52 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 6726 Sparsely-appointed venue with reasonably priced drinks noted for packing a punch.

Owners Annie and Ms. Van are never too busy to check on their patrons, and the busy bartenders are quick with a smile.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens.

Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Understanding Sake

By Matt Myers Sake is becoming increasingly popular, with Japanese restaurants commonly offering numerous types and even whole sake lists. Yet it still does not get the respect it deserves.

Rice-based wines are made in many different Asian cultures and are called by many different names. Sake, however, has strict purity and production rules.

In Ho Chi Minh City, sake isn’t really a big seller, even at Japanese and sushi restaurants. I am sure source and selection may have something to do with this. The other challenge could be simply the knowledge, or lack thereof, of sake.

For the next time you find yourself with a list of sake, I’ve put together a basic lesson so you can better understand this often-overlooked drink.

There are four basic ingredients used to make it: Rice – No ordinary com, sake rice is about three times more expensive than your local table rice, and there are about 80 different types.

Water – It represents 80 percent of the final product, so the quality is very important.

Different provinces in Japan have their own unique softness and hardness that affects the way the wine is brewed.

Koji – Mold spores that are propagated with a special batch of cooked rice. Their enzymes convert starch into fermentable sugars.

Love – Making sake is similar to having two great chefs prepare a dish from the best products — the outcome

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is always influenced by their individual interpretation. The use of different rice, water sources, and koji techniques, and the polishing down of the rice kernel are the master brewer’s secret.

Now, to understand what you are ordering, here are some common types of sake and what they mean: Ultra premium (Junmai Daiginjo) – Rice kernels are polished down to a minimum of 50 percent of their original size. Elegant in style with refined finish, most fall into the “light bodied” category.

Premium (Junmai Ginjo) – Rice kernels are polished down to a minimum of 60 percent of their original size.

Also elegant in style but will fall into the “medium bodied” category.

Pure rice (Junmai) – Rice kernels are polished to as much as 70 percent of their original size. Most brewers will state the percentage on the bottle. This is the “full bodied” variety.

Brewer’s alcohol (Honjozo) – Same polishing level as pure rice, except Honjozo permits the addition of alcohol. A small amount of distilled alcohol gives the sake more of a bite.

Cloudy, milky (Nigori) – A very popular style of sake. All sake comes out milky and cloudy after brewing, but this style is roughly filtered so the rice dust or particles remain.

Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.

Matt Myers is a seasoned mixologist who has worked in Las Vegas, San Francisco, Miami, Mexico City and Vietnam.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

BREWHOUSES

Hoa Vien 28bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn Expansive beer hall serves up pilsner beer crafted from malt, hops and yeast from the Czech Republic. There’s also a large food menu and imported Pilsner Urquell.

Lion Brewery 11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514 Microbrewery featuring traditional German brew technology and German fare like pork knuckle and wurst. Good spot to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer.

NIGHTCLUBS

Fuse Bar 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 A popular bar that plays primarily hiphop music. Every Tuesday Fuse hosts a ladies night where women drink for free.

Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496 A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices.

at home BAKERIES

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette.

Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

CATERING

Saigon Catering 41A Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9286 Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQ’s. For a custommade quotation e-mail SaigonGG@ gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128.

Xu Catering 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com From the brains behind Xu Restaurant and Lounge comes this new catering service, promising the highest standards in service. Everything from the menu to the comprehensive bar service and the staff is tailor-made to your specifications.

DELIVERY

www.vietnammm.com A free website that allows users to order delivery from dozens of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City.

Simply provide your address and phone number and pay the delivery driver in cash when he arrives Willy Woo’s www.vietnammm.com Southern American fare including skillet fried chicken, Belgium waffles and BBQ foods, red beans and rice, Jalapeno corn bread, and other classic southern sides. Delivery only via vietnammm.com

GROCERIES

Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor.

Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Kim Hai Butchery 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walkin fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE

The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

listings

www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas.

culture

me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions. Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

CLASSES

AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS

Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520

Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

GALLERIES

a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

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listings

sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

Trophies & Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

CRICKET

Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo. com www.saigoncricket.com

hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Suzanne & Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 suzanne@saigonyoga.com Suzanne is an ERYT- 200 (Experienced) Yoga Alliance Instructor. She boasts two decades of experience, offering various yoga styles in District 2 and yoga retreats in Vietnam.

English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa.

Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com

FOOTBALL & RUGBY

United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf

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fitness

Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

Les Gaulois de Saigon www.gauloisdesaigon.com info@gauloisdesaigon.com A new team of French footballers, the side invites players and their families to come and join in their friendly training sessions, where everyone can get together and enjoy the sport while making new friends. Contact Sebastien on 0919 691785 or Romain on 0908 060139.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions.

The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Garbage Gluten

By Phil Kelly In recent years there has been a growing awareness that grain or wheat products are not the best foods for us, even though conventional wisdom handed down from experts and governments recommends that a healthful diet consists of six to 11 daily servings.

These guidelines also state we should choose whole grains for more nutritional value and extra fibre. However, UCLA evolutionary biologist Jared Diamond says these recommendations are the “worst mistake in the history of the human race”. He says refined grains and wheat drive excess insulin production, fat storage and heart disease. They are allergenic, immune-suppressing and inferior in nutritional value to plants and animals.

In addition, whole grains are possibly worse due to their pro-inflammatory agents that disturb the immune and digestive systems.

All this comes down to the compound called gluten, a protein found in wheat and grain products. It acts like glue and gums up internal functions, causing inflammation, which is now recognised as the main cause of chronic diseases like cancer and heart disease.

Gluten also is known to cause numerous other afflictions and contributes to mal-absorption issues, which results in vitamin and mineral deficiencies.

We’ve been eating grains for a long time, how can it all of a sudden be the cause of all these problems? In the ’70s wheat was genetically modified

to contain more gluten and produce higher yields. The human species was never meant to absorb all this garbage gluten.

But don’t make the mistake of jumping on the gluten-free bandwagon by only eating gluten-free junk food. You have to adopt the JERF approach — Just Eat Real Food.

Now what about rice?

Compared to pasta and bread, rice is a much better option. Rice has a low toxic load and the storage protein in it is called glutelin, which doesn’t have anything to do with gluten. Rice is gluten-free.

But it does have minimal nutritional value, particularly white rice, as it has been stripped of almost all its minerals and fibre in the refining process. This means the energy provided will be digested and released into the bloodstream quickly.

If there has been no energy demand or deficit this energy will be converted to fat and stored. I’m not saying to never eat rice, but there are optimal times to eat it and there are much better options.

Some KiwiFitness grain alternatives and great carbohydrate sources are: quinoa, sweet potatoes, buckwheat and vegetables, all of which are widely available in Ho Chi Minh City.

Phil Kelly is a health practioner and expert in body transformation. His services are available at Star Fitness, online or at your home. Contact him through Phil-kelly.com.

Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799 www.saigonrfc.org saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome.

attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

GOLF

Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees. Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009-yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city. Membership starts at USD $2,000 a year.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Membership starts from USD $700 for 6 months.

Visitors’ greens fees for a round of golf are around USD $16 before 5 pm and $19 after. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

SaigonSports Academy League Tel: 093 215 3502 greg@saigonsportsacademy.com www.saigonsportsacademy.com 12-week, 5 a side community football league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and expat teams compete in adult division with cash prize for champions.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other

LEISURE

Hash House Harriers www.saigonh3.com Running club that meets every Sunday at 2 pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer.

Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Squash The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town.

Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 Vietnam Hobby Brewers hobbybrewer.vietnam@gmail.com www.hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tl Small group of beer enthusiasts gather bi-monthly at microbrewery to talk beer, share brewing tips and sample homemade suds. The group is keen on taking on new members with an interest in learning how to brew.

X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building.

Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

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listings

surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

health & beauty

Tu Xuong Dental Clinic 51A Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 2049/050 drhung01@yahoo.com www.nhakhoatuxuong.com Provides general and cosmetic dental services at reasonable prices. Specialises in implants, orthodontic treatments and making crowns and bridges. Staff are professional and speak English.

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE American Chiropractic Clinic 8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treats back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment Theta Healing – Jodie Eastwood Tel: 091 859 1933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified practitioner based in HCM City.

COSMETIC TREATMENT Cao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic 135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3923 4419 A modern clinic offering a comprehensive range of optical services. Specializes in LASIK correctional procedures. English spoken. Open seven days a week.

FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery 45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 6167 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com International-standard cosmetic procedures from simple dermabrasion and chemical peels to collagen injections, nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and breast enhancement. Procedures carried out by French and Vietnamese doctors using the latest equipment.

Parkway Shenton International Clinic Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics clinic offers a range of both surgical and non-surgical treatments including dental reconstruction.

DENTAL European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 doe.linh@gmail.com With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental

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Westcoast International Dental Clinic 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1 Tel: 3825 6999 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 6777 info@westcoastinternational.com www.westcoastinternational.com Canadian-run dental clinic staffed by French, Japanese, English and Vietnamese speaking dental professionals.

HAIR & SALON

Anthony George for London Hair & Beauty FIDECO Riverview Building 14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475 www.aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist George brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. The modern, stylish and professional salon is host to a staff of professionally trained beauty therapists. Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal products.

Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 8422 007 International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years and brings his expertise to this established, topnotch salon.

Qi Spa 151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719 Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150 Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437 High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments on offer.

Souche 2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 A top-end beauty salon using the Dermatologica line of skincare products.

Specialises in personalized facial care treatments and medicated acne treatments. Waxing and other aesthetic services are also available in a pleasant atmosphere with excellent service.

Sunji Matsuo Hair Studio Saigon Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5416 0378 Celebrity hairstylist Sunji Matsuo’s Singapore-based hair salon has a variety of hair services including scalp treatments, rebonding and hair extensions.

The Salon 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6394 Reliable haircuts from well-trained stylists at this local salon with multiple locations.

MEDICAL Australian Clinic & Pathology Diagnostics (ACPD) 273-275 Ly Thai To, D10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services include general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa health-

checks, X-ray, full laboratory and in-house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, paediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedic and dermatology.

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses.

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-theart medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby. Also in Hanoi and Danang.

HANH PHUC International Hospital Binh Duong boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong.

Tel: 0650 3636068 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a comprehensive range of quality healthcare services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer, Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving from HCMC. HANH PHUC International Hospital Clinic 2nd fl., Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1. Tel: 3911 1860 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive range of services specializing in Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics, Immunization, General Practice and Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm.

Human Medicine – International Clinic (HMIC) 601B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 Tel: 6264 6957 http://humanmedicineclinic.com Providing a state of the art health-care solution to prevent, diagnose and treat a variety of medical conditions. HMIC is dedicated to give a family-centered care with talented team of healthcare professionals, technology and customer-friendly environment. The modern clinic hosts a range of highly trained and experienced medical specialists and managed by Western-trained doctors.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical

assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

NAILS

OPI 253 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 International brand of nail care offering a variety of treatments from standard manicures at 50,000 VND to the whole host nail services such as acrylics, powder gell, cuticle treatments and French polishing.

SKINCARE

Avon 186A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3930 4018 HCMC branch of the world’s largest direct seller of cosmetics occupies the ground floor of District 3 villa, selling brand names like Anew, Skin-So-Soft and Avon Natural.

The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 31 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3926 0336 www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

Dermalogica Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 www.dermalogica.com U.S. brand of cleansers popular among skin care professionals. The line of toners, exfoliants, moisturizers and masques are engineered by skin therapists to be free of common irritants, and the company is categorically opposed to animal testing.

L’Apothiquaire 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Parkson Saigon Tourist Plaza Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 64A Truong Dinh, D3 07 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3932 5181/3932 5082 www.lapothiquaire.com info@lapothiquaire.com French-made natural products for all types of skin. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from Erbario Toscano.

L’Occitane en Provence New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 French cosmetics company with a 30year history offering a range of bath and massage oils, essential oils, body and hand care products are especially well known. Also has outlets in all the major downtown shopping malls.

Marianna Medical Laser Skincare 149A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel:3526 4635 www.en.marianna.com.vn Professional Laser Clinic in Ho Chi Minh City, Marianna owns the excellent experts in Aesthetic Medicine and the modern technologies such as Laser, Botox, Filler and all solutions can help you more beautiful and younger day by day.

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kids corner

listings

family ACTIVITIES DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Little Fibbers

By Gemma Jones “Mummy, mummy, I just saw an elephant walking past outside!” OK, so this may not be too far-fetched for those who live in Southeast Asia, but similarly tall tales are a common occurrence for parents of young children everywhere.

Most kids will tell tales, grass on others or concoct small lies. The usual reason is because young children do not yet know the difference between fantasy and reality. It takes them a while to distinguish between the two.

Therefore most children may find it easier to say the first things that comes into their heads, whether true or not, especially if it helps get them out of trouble. Parents should not worry or get anxious if this happens every so often, as it is perfectly normal behaviour for little ones.

Around the ages of four and five children should begin to enjoy hearing stories and indulging in imaginative play.

When combined with the blur between fantasy and reality, this usually will encourage them to make up their own stories. Mostly this will be for their own amusement but it is surprising how easily some parents or carers mistake it for a serious lie and deal with it in the wrong way.

Remember, two different children can see the same thing and react to it in completely different ways. This is simply down to each child’s specific level of development.

It will change as they get

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older and gain life experience.

If lies begin to cause problems, the first step is to communicate. Discussing the importance of trust and honesty in a firm but understanding manner should be enough to nip it in the bud. It may mean your older child is going through a rough period or using lies to cover up serious problems.

It is important to handle the habit of lying carefully. What you say and do as parents is crucial — remember that you are likely to be one of your child’s main role models, so be sure to emphasise all aspects of telling the truth. Also, as they get older, children will become more concerned with how others perceive them, so it may be useful to explain that people will respect them more if they tell the truth.

Another way to help your children is to find out what they find stressful and offer positive ways of dealing with it. Instead of punishing them for their mistakes, use plenty of praise when they tell you something difficult. Encourage them to always speak the truth — the key is to give them attention for good behaviour, rather than for bad.

Gemma Jones has been working in child care for more than 10 years. She holds an NNEB diploma in nursery nursing and is currently a creative writing teacher at Zaman International School in Phnom Penh.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Briar Jacques bjacques123@gmail.com Cel: 0122 480 8792 Helping families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address issues such as expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. We take a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on mental, emotional and physical levels.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

BABY EQUIPMENT

Belli Blossom 4F-04 (4th Floor) Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 7574 12 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3822 6615 www.belliblossom.com.vn contactus@belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom catering to moms and babies with imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags, and many others.

Brands available include: Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends, Gingersnaps.

Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

CLOTHES

Debenhams Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to 12 years old) imported brand from UK. High to mid-range prices.

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

EDUCATION

ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities.

ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. International curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

The Australian International School Xi Early Childhood Centre 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 35192727 Early Childhood & Primary School Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Middle & Senior School East-West Highway, An Phu ward, D2 Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com An international curricula and PYP/MYP school. Senior students follow Cambridge A levels. AIS is the only school in Vietnam authorised to deliver the University of New South Wales (UNSW)

Foundation Studies Year 12 curriculum.

Well-resourced classrooms, highly qualified and experienced teachers, excellent facilities that support academic, creative and sporting activities. Book a tour at enrolments@aisvietnam.com.

programme for students from 2-16yrs.

Its curriculum is based on international recognised Primary Years Programmes, Middle Years Programmes and IB Diploma Programmes of the International Baccalaureate (IB) System.

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam operating from three purpose built campuses in HCMC catering for students from pre-school to Year 13. The school operates within the framework of the National Curriculum for England and is staffed primarily by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Students are prepared for both IGCSE & the IB Diploma programmes.

BIS is a member of FOBISSEA & is fully accredited by the Council of International schools

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School.

Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

ERC 86-88-92 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn ERC Vietnam is a member of ERCI Singapore. Founded by a group of successful business leaders around Asia Pacific. Our primary objective is to groom and mentor a new generation of business leaders in Vietnam equipped with skills to analyze and solve real-world business challenges of today.

German International School 730F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien Tel: 7300 7257 www.gis.vn A German International School offers a unique bilingual German-English

KinderStar Kindergarten 08 Dang Dai Do, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5411 8118/9 Offering bilingual preschool program with capacity up to 900 students with the most updated international standard.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/ extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171

www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC. The American School Vietnam - TAS 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Te: 3519 2223

www.theamericanschool.edu.vn A complete American curriculum with challenging Advanced Placement (AP), dual enrollment with USA Misouri Sate University all directed by a certified Guidance Counselor. The California Standards of Learning are the framework for the program of studies of all grade levels. Enrollment from nursery to grade 12.

ENTERTAINMENT

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

PARTIES

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holidayspecific party costumes.

The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.

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finance

listings

living BUSINESS GROUPS

AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org

What Came First, Barter or Credit?

By Afonso Vieira

British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org

If you were paying attention in school you were told that in the origin of money, credit is something of an afterthought.

First comes barter, then we discover currency, and then eventually we develop credit systems.

But for a long time many anthropologists have been pointing out that there is something wrong with this picture. They highlight that credit is way more important, and it may have happened first. When we examine how economic life is conducted in real communities, even nowadays in rural Vietnam, one is much more likely to discover everyone in debt (not just in a monetary sense), and many transactions occur without the use of currency.

As for barter, there is no evidence that it ever happened.

To this day, no one has been able to locate the part of the world that gave us the mode of economic transaction between neighbours in the form of “I’ll give you five chickens for a basket of pears”. This does not mean barter doesn’t exist. In Brazil, it was found that tribes would use credit internally, on day-to-day exchanges, and would resort to barter on rare and unique trades with enemy tribes.

The most shocking blow to the barter-currency-credit timeline came with the translation of Egyptian hieroglyphics and Sumerian script, which pushed back written history to roughly

CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org

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3500BC. The Sumerians, to whom we owe the 24-hour day, had developed a uniform system of accounting. The basic monetary unit was the silver shekel, representing one bushel of barley. A shekel was divided into 60 minas, corresponding to one ration of barley, as workers received two rations per day on the principle that there were 30 days per month. Sumerians used the system to calculate debts, like rents, fees and loans. Although priced in silver shekels, they did not have to be paid in silver. In fact, silver almost didn’t circulate at all. Debts were paid in almost anything, including: barley, goats, furniture and lapis lazuli. Most of the population did much of their dealings on credit, by running up a tab to be settled at harvest time in barley or anything they might have at hand.

So it seems credit came first. Currency came much later. And barter systems seem to crop up during the collapse of local economies, like the Soviet Union in the early ’90s.

So when you’re in Vietnam’s countryside and witness a local hiring musicians to play at his daughter’s wedding, they may promise to pay them in bags of rice when the harvest comes, and that’s a credit economy.

Afonso Vieira is the investment manager of Total Wealth Management. You can contact him at afonso.vieira@t-wm.com.

Citi Bank 115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corpo-rate. Services include Corporate and Investment Banking, Global Transaction Services, and Consumer Banking.

In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS

Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS

Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff.

Honours Apple service plans.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and after-sales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services. Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING

Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers Asia Ltd. 4th floor, 04 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3822 4728 www.embers-asia.com As the first team building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in making teams better in globally competitive markets. Embers' HR performance management services include: team building excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Flamingo Corporate Services Tel: 2217 1662 Email: info@flamingovn.com www.flamingovn.com Specializes in business immigration, providing services like visas, work and resident permits, police clearance, APEC cards, authentication and legalization of work experience certificates and degrees in Vietnam and abroad.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100

www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, marketentry research and IT/business consulting.

Prism Information Technology Services Level 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416 info@prism.com.vn A foreign-owned information and communications technology company that offers value-added IT solutions. Enables local businesses to attain and maintain international IT standards to be more competitive in the marketplace.

Rouse & Co. International Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Global intellectual property firm providing a full range of IP services including patent and trade mark agency services.

Star Management Limited 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3897 2765 www.starlimited.com Business advisory services for companies investing in Vietnam, business project advancement and a range of business development services.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

PERSONAL FINANCIAL PLANNING

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in

offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR

Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Asian Fish 34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner. Products include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

Mekong-Quilts 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

Mekong Creations 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot

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people matter

Building Real Relationships

By Gary Woollacott This month’s column began in a conversation with a friend whom I had placed in a financial services company 10 years ago. At that stage she was recruited to set up the company’s office in Thailand.

Now, several promotions later, she has a regional position covering a large slice of Asia Pacific. We were talking about the importance of relationships in getting business done and in generating new business. Both of us agreed real and lasting business relationships probably don’t come out of social networks on the internet, but are more likely to be formed as the result of human interaction.

Real people doing real things.

There were two main facets to our discussion. One was that during her recruitment process the principal of the company wanted a final interview to assess if she was a good match. The snag: he was in transit at Bangkok airport at 11pm and the meeting could only be there and then. He said if his candidate wasn’t prepared to do that then she probably wasn’t the person for the job. A tough one. I twisted her arm a bit and we went together. She got the job. Being prepared to meet him at that hour demonstrated she was a person who would go the extra mile for the relationship, and hence the business. That was appreciated greatly at the time, and ultimately she has been rewarded more than she ever could have hoped.

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The second aspect concerned that same man’s younger brother, who had studied at an Ivy League university. The brother took over an apartment that had previously been occupied by a student who had gone on to head one of the region’s largest banks. Although the two men had never met, the new occupant was kind enough to forward on the first man’s mail. When the elder brother approached the bank to do business, the banker remembered the younger brother’s thoughtfulness and was delighted to repay that by awarding the business on an exclusive basis. This type of relationship doesn’t come out of nowhere — it involves human actions by human beings, something that can be overlooked by those only updating their social networks online.

Take the time to call a client, rather than email. Better yet, visit rather than call. You’ll be surprised at the reaction.

These are the thoughtful actions that lead to building real relationships. It works.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net.

Opus is a partner of Horton International.

warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

FURNITURE

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals. Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region.

There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Unity 12 Dang Tran Con, D1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com www.facebook.com/unitycompany Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshellwhite china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection to give your home a sense of Unity.

ELECTRONICS

Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment. Retails in everything from giant plasma-screen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available.

Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties.

Staff speaks some English.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

LINH‘S WHITE

37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788

namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications.

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

INSURANCE Blue Cross Vietnam 8th Flr. River View Tower, Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3821 9908 www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years' experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Our reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means we are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance please contact us for a free quote.

LEGAL

Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 6291 7000

www.limcharoen.com Full service international law firm with head office in Thailand. Main focus on real estate in Asia.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Options for kids.

tional School and Australian International School. Affords a great view over the Saigon River. Many facilities available including a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and gym.

Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon. Shops selling authentic Zeus helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai near Ben Thanh Market.

CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

REAL ESTATE

Ava Residence 40/10 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 8440 www.avaresidence.com Modern serviced apartments located 5 minutes from the British Interna-

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

LIGHTING

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

MOTORBIKES

Automotive Street Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast Services include mending motorbike seats and sound system installation.

Products range from zebra print motorbike seat covers to car and motorbike tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and sound systems by Xplode.

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3

112 Xuan Thuy Ward Thao Dien District 2 Ho Chi Minh City Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917 shop-hcm@decosy.biz

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HousingInteractive www.housinginteractive.com Offering an easy-to-use, comprehensive website that only lists authentic apartments and villas throughout Ho Chi Minh City. The website empowers users to make specific searches to narrow down properties in order to suit their exact requirements and save time.

Upon selecting, HousingInteractive's professional staff is available 6 days a week to introduce tenants to their future homes.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Namhouse Corporation 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating.

Supports professional services and after-sales.

Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside-apartments.com One of the first luxury serviced apartments in town located next to the Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens.

Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in

Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

orientations, immigration, home search, intercultural training through to pet relocation. Call the team on the above number and check out our website for more information.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism.

Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations 1st Fl, 214 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 7102 www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with warehousing, handyman, insurance & claim, orientation an partner career support services also availble.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENT

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Opus Vietnam 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@ opusasia.net.

RELOCATION AGENTS

Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 3823 3454 Kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords.com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specializing in business and office moves. Overseas and specialist movers also available.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Not just International or local moving and storage. Crown Relocations offer a wide range of services including

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JVK International Movers Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 Tel: 3826 7655/6 chris.honour@jvkasia.com www.jvk.com International agengy with a full range of services including sea/air freight services and worldwide transit coverage.

Santa Fe Relocation Services Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Provides a range of services including home/school search, language/cultural training, tenancy management and immigration/visa support.

UniGroup Worldwide UTS Vietnam 440/26A Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 3836 3002 www.unigroupworldwide.com Global mobility company offering international corporate relocations, settling-in assistance and cross-cultural training.

STATIONERY

Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Fahasa 40 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3822 5796 Bookstore chain carries an expansive stock of office and home stationary; a one-stop shop for basic needs.

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

Stationary and Printing Street Ly Thai To Street, D3 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast More than 25 stores providing photocopying services, from business cards to flyers and colour prints to invitations.

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES

Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Alfred Dunhill Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A timeless style in male luxury providing formal and casual mens accesories tailored for the discerning man. Also stocking handcrafted leather goods.

Anupa Boutique 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307 anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net The ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather. Collections available range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery. Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries toys, stationery, Unitdot Bamboo eye wear, Ella Charlotte scarves and ladies' apparel brand Things of Substance.

Bally Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men.

Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Cartier Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan This well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men. Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.

Cincinati 177P Dong Khoi, D1 www.cincinati.vn info@cincinati.vn Vietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women: notebooks for a classic vagabond look. Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made by local craftsmanship.

Cleo-Pearls 30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 091 3587 690 Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor.

Gallery vivekkevin FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3709 info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.com Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece.

Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions.

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

J. Silver 803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5411 1188 Make a statement without being ostentatious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store. Expect big, interesting pieces that are simple yet glamorous.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Rimowa Level 2 OperaView Tower, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3832 6941 hotline@rimowavietnam.com The German luggage maker is popular with a who’s who of the celebrity world.

Their range of cases come in varying sizes and are made from high-tech materials to provide exceptional durability while remaining very light weight.

Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Tic Tac Watch Shop 72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519

femme fashion

www.tictacwatch.com Elegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume & Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch repair service and complementary watch evaluation available. Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes.

Tombo 145 Dong Khoi, D1 Of all the embroidered and sequined bags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff is friendly.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEAR

The Colour Pink

By Christina Yu Can you seriously take fashion advice from a celebrity who possibly has butt implants?

That’s right, implants that don’t just make your butt look bigger, but actually be bigger.

I’m talking about Nicki Minaj, a fellow lover of the colour pink. In case you are from a non-rap and non-Star World planet, Nicki had seven singles on the US billboard top 100 chart at the same time, and is a current judge on American Idol.

And Nicki loves pink: First album: Pink Friday; Second album: Pink Friday: Roman Reloaded (no idea, why she could not come up with a new name); Preferred hair colour: made famous with electric pink, but now becoming multi dimensional; Preferred lipstick: hot pink; Preferred butt size: big Can you see the odd one out?

I suppose on American Idol, Nicki did replace Steven Tyler, one of whose most famous songs was also called ‘Pink’.

Maybe it’s an Idol thing.

Anyway, the real point of this article is to ask, do you need a surgically enhanced derriere to adopt Nikki’s fashion love of pink?

First, I think we can do away with the myth that pink is for girls and blue is for boys, albeit this is not necessarily good news for pink. Two neuroscientists reported in Current Biology that they did

72 asialife HCMC

a study of colour preferences across cultures, and unfortunately concluded both sexes had a preference for blue hues, although females preferred reddish hues and males preferred greenish yellow. In addition, a survey of 10 department stores in the United States in the 1920s found that more boys preferred pink than girls. So the relatively more recent misguidance about colour preferences among the sexes seems to have no basis.

Second, pink is a great colour for accessorising. I understand that blacks and neutrals are very easy to wear and incredibly safe, and they just about protect against any fashion faux paux. But the great thing about pink is that it goes with a lot of these safe colours. How many guys have you seen undergo a complete makeover by simply adding a pink shirt and tie to their standard navy blue or dark grey suit? And for the neutral centric female wardrobe, pink can go with white, black, light grey and other neutral colours.

Beginner pink wearers, be warned: Do not try too much, think Nicki, who just accessorises her hair and lipstick in hot pink.

Christina Yu is the creative director and founder of Ipa-Nima, an award-winning accessories brand. Email your questions to Christina@ipanima.com or visit Ipa-nima. com.

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex

BAM Skate Shop 174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826 In addition to a range of decks, wheels and trucks, this small shop is stocked with bookbags, skate sneakers, track jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your skateboard company of choice.

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Replay Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 116 Nguyen Trai, D1 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3925 0252 Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for teens and university-age men and women. Carries boots, sandals, pumps and sneakers at mid-range prices.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led inte-

rior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

men

Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Mattre 19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412 This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward males. Apparel in sizes that fit the typical Western man’s frame are often available.

Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi www.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selection of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing.

D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women

Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories.

Balenciaga Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue Tel: 6291 3572 Sporting modern shapes and elegant items crafted from natural, raw and artificial materials.

BCBGMAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

Bebe Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3914 4011 www.bebe.com An international brand that specializes in contemporary, modern tees and sexy, elegant dresse, tops and party attire.

Chloe Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 6291 3582

Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes in simple, traditional designs with a feminine and fashionable twist.

Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 Carries a range of couture and pret-aporter garments and silk and organza dresses in vibrant colours created by Cambodia-based designer Romyda Keth.

Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Kookai Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi French brand stocking classic, feminine, styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at mid- to high-range prices are perfect for twentyand thirty-something women.

La Senza 47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 1700 65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328 www.lasenza.com Boutique carrying a wide range of bras, panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Song Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Offers women’s fashion designs by Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including evening dress, tops and hats.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls

and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOES

Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

TAILORS

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship.

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Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men. Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy.

In-office and workplace fittings available.

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

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LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

- www.linhfurniture.com

asialife HCMC 73

Cyclo Challenge

We Are Young at Mcsorley's

Photos by Calum Campbell, Fred Wissink and Chris Mueller.

74 asialife HCMC

French Tuesdays

Blanchy's Tash

Future music at Darts Darts Darts

asialife HCMC 75

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radar Voicing the problem

Everydaysexism.com In countries like Vietnam where sexism is still open and accepted, it’s easy to forget that the rest of the world isn’t like this. But despite strides made in our modern, ‘evolving’ home countries sexism is still heavily ingrained in our societies. This site aims to bring light to the issue by giving ordinary people an outlet to complain about everyday instances of sexism without worrying about being “labelled as ‘uptight’, ‘prudish’, a ‘militant feminist’, or a ‘bra burner’.”

The creators argue that by recording these cases, no matter how small or big, it shows sexism is still a problem far from being solved.

Fitness for life

Nerdfitness.com While most fitness websites and forums tend to be populated with meatheads and aggressive types, this one offers a new approach. Steve Kamb created the site after telling himself, “I’m a nerd, I like fitness, so why not combine the two and turn life into one giant video game?” The premise behind Nerd Fitness is to find something you enjoy and incorporate it into your life. Even though Kamb makes it clear he is not a fitness expert, but an average guy who struggles with getting and staying in shape, his articles are so well researched and backed by science and proper sources it’s hard not to trust him.

Time well wasted

Poorlydrawnlines.com Another webcomic for procrastinators, this site uses a simple drawing style with absurd topics. One notable comic is the heartening tale of Tiny Hippo and his much-loved tiny toy train. Tiny Hippo would go everywhere with his train until one day Tiny Raven steals it. This leads Hippo on a journey through his tiny world until he finds Crow, whom Tiny Hippo then kills with a shank, because, “Ain’t no one fucks with Tiny Hippo.” Some of the strips will leave you in stitches while others will leave you chuckling at their sheer awkwardness, but they are always entertaining.

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soundfix album review

Waxahatchee Cerulean Salt

At points throughout second album Cerulean Salt, Waxahatchee veers towards sounding overly plaintive.

Unfortunately, this happens most towards the beginning of the record. But it would be a shame for listeners to be scared off by the rather dismal opening track, which would seem to herald a collection of navel-gazing, alternative songs.

When Waxahatchee — fronted by vocalist, guitarist and songwriter Katie Crutchfield — gets into the swing of things, listening becomes a pleasure. The third track, ‘Lips and Limbs’, picks up the pace with a jaunty folk melody and things generally go upwards from there. On ‘Brother Bryan’ and ‘Tangled Envisioning’, the vocals turn compellingly sultry, echoing a young Cat Power.

Alabama-native Crutchfield started Waxahatchee as a solo project, but even with the addition of her bassist/ drummer-boyfriend Keith Spencer, her music retains a personal, confessional quality that is its ultimate allure.

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by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

David Bowie

Rhye

The Next Day

Woman

A creature fashioned from the glitziest, wildest essence of the 1970s, David Bowie could happily retire knowing that he achieved icon status. It’s hard to imagine glam rock ever achieving such notoriety without its most captivating star. Bowie is cited as an influence by many a young rocker today, and his imprint can be seen in the flamboyance practiced by Lady Gaga.

Whether as Ziggy Stardust or the Goblin King in the 1986 film Labrynth, Bowie was always an entertainer who made his music larger than life. And he continues to do so, issuing his 24th studio album since his debut over 45 years ago.

Announced weeks before its release, The Next Day comes as a surprise that doesn’t disappoint.

This time, Bowie doesn’t try to reinvent himself, but stays true to the eclectic sounds he has explored over a lengthy career.

Aged 66, he is still the master of his own domain.

Music doesn’t have to be pushy to move you. Rhye is one example, creating music that is subtle yet stands out amongst the crowd. Sensual and intimate, Rhye evokes a stripped-down, modernised version of Sade.

With a sound best described as neo-soul meets smooth jazz — yet another genre concoction in a modern age of musical hybridity — Rhye produces vocal-focused music over deft electronic arrangements.

Despite the debut album’s deceptive title, Woman, Rhye is in fact a collaboration between two men, Robin Hannibal and Mike Milosh. The former is a Danish producer formerly of Quadron. The second provides the androgynous voice at the core of Rhye’s DNA. His airy style of singing and murmuring lyrics about the twists and turns of love has a soothing effect. The album begins in a luscious swell with ‘Open’ and winds down on the final song, a breathy repetition of the album’s name.

Justin Timberlake The 20/20 Experience

Ever since Justin Bieber started trying to repackage himself as the new post-N’Sync Justin Timberlake, it has seemed high time for the original to make a comeback. Since his 2006 FutureSex/LoveSounds, Timberlake seemed to be spending more time on the red carpet and catwalk front rows than in the recording studio. But his ability to multitask has paid off, with the release of his third album. The 20/20 Experience kicks off with a cinematic flourish, as Timberlake builds up his own grand entrance on ‘Pusher Love Girl’, an eight-minute song which shows off his falsetto over a staccato beat. For all his pin-up posturing and schmaltzy lyrics, Timberlake demonstrates that his song writing and production can be taken seriously. Coproduced by Timbaland, this album is a pastiche of R&B, pop, soul, hip-hop and even bhangra, with songs that break away from typical strong structures. Take note Bieber, this is how it’s done.

endorsed

xoneFM top ten Hot 10 this last

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One Way or Another Shine Your Way Check You Out Mirrors Heart Attack No Freedom Boomarang EVOL Just Give Me A Reason Tonight I'm Getting Over You

One Direction Owl City feat Yune Darin Justin Timberlake Demi Lovato Dido Nicole Sherzinger Marinna feat The Diamonds Pink Carly Rae Jepson

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Feel This Moment I Need Your Love

artist Macklemore and Ryan Lewis feat Ray Dalton Passenger Pink feat Nate Ruess Mkto Rihanna feat Mikky Ekko James Arthur Nelly Avicii vs. Nicky Romero Pitbull Calvin Harris feat Ellie Goulding

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artist Macklemore and Ruyan Lewis feat Wanz Maroon 5 Taylor Swift Bruno Mars Swedish House Mafia Calvin Harris feat Floence Welch Will.i.am feat Britney Spears Justin Timberlake feat Jay-Z Rihanna feat Mikky Ekko Imagine Dragons

Chrysanthemum Tea

By Ruben Luong Chrysanthemum tea’s soothing concoction of flowery extracts makes it a fresh and convenient pick-me-up for bad days.

It’s not as prevalent or popular as green tea, per se, but when I find a restaurant or café that serves it, I always have to have a cup in deference to the health properties it historically possesses.

First imbibed during the Chinese Song Dynasty (9601279), chrysanthemum tea is no stranger to Asia. Chinese poets also have long heralded the beauty of chrysanthemums in selected texts and literature.

The flower’s regal mandala of white and yellow petals is often used as a token of nobility, humility or personal harmony in the Orient.

Still, chrysanthemum’s renown in ancient Chinese medicinal practices is what really puts it on most people’s radar.

As an inherent cooling herb, chrysanthemum vigorously heals symptoms of the flu, sore throats and fevers by regulating body temperature. The tea supplies vitamin C, which delivers antiviral properties that alleviate head congestion. It’s one of my favourite remedies for taking care of friends who are sick, because more often than not, they are almost instantly abated after drinking it.

Chrysanthemum tea is effective even when enjoyed on a more leisurely basis, especially in between meals, as it facilitates the digestion of oily foods. Similarly, it is a mighty arbiter of vitamin A, calcium, iron, magnesium and potassium, which help treat eye ailments, transport oxygen through the body and keep blood pressure low. And unlike coffee, green tea and sodas, chrysanthemum tea is caffeine-free, so detrimental side effects like anxiety, tension and irritation are one fewer thing to worry about.

In terms of preparation, brewing a cup of chrysanthemum tea is simple. For green tea, steeping the tea requires precision and can be cumbersome; steeping too hot or too long can make the tea acrid.

But for chrysanthemum tea, steeping several dried chrysanthemum flowers in steaming hot water for about five to seven minutes in a teapot is all that is needed for a sweet batch. Once you’re through with the pot, the best part is you can add more hot water to the flowers and continue to drink several times more, enjoying the tea’s optimal supplements in a gratifying, healthy and restorative session.

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boxoffice

Lincoln

GI Joe: Retaliation

Oblivion

Iron Man 3

Steven Spielberg directs Daniel Day-Lewis in Lincoln, a revealing drama that focuses on the 16th president's tumultuous final months in office. In a nation divided by war and the strong winds of change, Lincoln pursues a course of action designed to end the conflict, unite the country and abolish slavery.

With the moral courage and fierce determination to succeed, his choices during this critical moment will change the fate of generations to come.

Not only are the GI Joes fighting their mortal enemy Cobra, but they are forced to contend with threats from within the government that jeopardize their very existence. The film stars DJ Cotrona, Byung-hun Lee, Adrianne Palicki, Ray Park, Jonathan Pryce, Ray Stevenson, Channing Tatum, Bruce Willis and Wayne Johnson.

Jack Harper (Tom Cruise) is one of the last few drone repairmen stationed on Earth, part of a massive operation to extract vital resources after decades of war with a terrifying threat known as the Scavs. Jack’s mission is nearly complete, but when he rescues a beautiful stranger from a downed spacecraft, her arrival triggers a chain of events that forces him to question everything he knows and puts the fate of humanity in his hands.

This time, the brash-but-brilliant industrialist Tony Stark/Iron Man is pitted against an enemy whose reach knows no bounds.

When Stark finds his personal world destroyed at his enemy's hands, he embarks on a quest to find those responsible. As he fights his way back, Stark discovers the answer to the question that has secretly haunted him: Does the man make the suit or does the suit make the man?

Opening Dates CINEMAS M: Megastar Cinema www.megastar.vn

G: Galaxy Cinema www.galaxycine.vn

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GI Joe: Retaliation (5 April) Lincoln (5 April) Oblivion (12 April) Iron Man 3 (26 April) GI Joe: Retaliation (3 April) Oblivion (12 April) Iron Man 3 (26 April)

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf Life After Life Kate Atkinson Doubleday

What if you could relive your life? What would you change?

For those who have pondered the countless crossroads that determine our paths, Kate Atkinson’s eighth novel envisions a life in which circumstances can be amended and the future reconfigured. A baby is born in the English countryside in 1910, but the doctor arrives too late to save her. A few pages later, she is born again and this time the doctor comes just in time to deliver her safely. This child grows up to be Ursula Todd and her story is told and retold as a series of alternative happenings, against a background of meaningful historical events.

Ghana Must Go Taiye Selasi The Penguin Press

When the Sai family patriarch passes away in Accra, his estranged wife and four children gather in Ghana for his funeral. This is where the novel begins, but the family’s prior history reverberates throughout the narrative. The family’s mother, Folasadé, migrated from Nigeria to Pennsylvania where she met her Ghanaian husband, Kweku. She gives up on law school in order to raise their children. When Kweku loses his job and repatriates to Ghana, his abandonment of the family causes the fractures at the base of the plotline.

Written by a New England-raised author, also of GhanaianNigerian parentage, the book shares some general insight into the African migrant experience.

Sticks and Stones Emily Bazelon Random House

In this diligent work of nonfiction, Emily Bazelon takes a close look at bullying in schools. Sticks and Stones studies three victims of bullying, including Phoebe Prince, a young Irish girl who committed suicide after being bullied at her school in Massachusetts. Bazelon takes a nuanced approach to understanding the causes and impact of bullying. Rather than simply pointing accusatory fingers at bullies, she seeks to understand contexts. She also dissects media perspectives on bullying and explores the role of adults, including parents and teachers.

Wave Sonali Deraniyagala Alfred A Knopf

Sonali Deraniyagala shares her encounter with tragedy in this agonizing memoir. Over Christmas of 2004, Deraniyagala’s family is enjoying a beachside holiday in Sri Lanka. The next day, a tsunami washes ashore. Deraniyagala survives, but her husband, two young sons and parents are killed. Wave is her account of profound grief, with elegiac memories of her family. Her emotional aftermath is described in unsanitised detail, unravelling in a cycle of anger, suicidal depression, guilt and madness. Like Joan Didion’s The Year of Magical Thinking, Deraniyagala’s approach is neither remedial or inspirational, but powerful and unforgettable in its raw depiction of loss.

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ODD ONE OUT With the pre-rainy season slump well underway, Dana Filek-Gibson offers suggestions on how to keep your cool.

If you're from a healthy, stable, and well-rounded family like mine, you know that the best thing to do with your emotions is suppress them.

As temperatures in the city reach their apex and the lunar new year has long gone, there is a lot less to look forward to over the next few weeks. The unbearable heat of April will break eventually, but what follows is several months of incessant rain, peppered with just enough public holidays to remind us of all the extended vacations we're unable to take.

Added to these weather woes are other common stresses of city life: the driver who honks at you while the light is still red or the teenager who picks up his cellphone in the theatre.

Tragically, there are only so many DVD boxed sets you can watch to escape the frustrations of reality, and before you know it you've unleashed a string of obscenities on your workplace photocopier, ranting about how everything is broken in Vietnam while your colleagues pretend not to notice the outburst.

Indeed, the pre-rainy season slump has begun. But by taking control of your own mental health, there are productive ways in which to combat this day-to-day irritation. Thanks to WebMD and my self-proclaimed expertise in the area, I am qualified to offer the following stress management advice: Take a Deep Breath In a tense moment — say, the 467th time your motorbike

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doesn't start — it's easy to let your emotions get the better of you. While this usually makes for a great YouTube video — and, later, remixes of that YouTube video — it never pays off in real life. Instead of upending a street cart or rough-talking a vehicle, step back and remove yourself from the situation, preferably to a location that sells cupcakes or alcohol. If such a location is not readily accessible, picture whatever your version of heaven is — mine is currently the cheese aisle at Annam Gourmet — and go there.

Stay Busy If you're from a healthy, stable, and well-rounded family like mine, you know that the best thing to do with your emotions is suppress them. Bury those feelings deep inside and take your mind off your troubles by getting a hobby. You can, of course, take up something relaxing and stress-free like tai chi but if, like me, you have trouble resisting the urge to gloat every time your downward dog beats someone else's, there are other activities which can channel your frustration into positive results, like kickboxing or laser tag.

Alternatively, if none of the above options suit you, there is no harm in taking up food: this city is full of it, and human

beings have been replacing feelings with sweets since the dawn of time. Remember, cupcake shops and pastry chefs don't stay in business because people aren't emotional.

Find a Secret Psychiatrist If, despite the cupcakes and laser tag and overly positive delusions, your frustration persists, the ultimate solution to your stress may be therapy.

I already know what you're thinking: “Not me. I'm not going to see a psychiatrist.”

Regardless of your opinions on the matter, I am not suggesting you visit a trained professional.

Instead, develop your own network of ‘secret psychiatrists’, or everyday people in front of whom you can spontaneously cry in public places. These confidants can be anyone in your life — a hairdresser, a colleague, a total stranger — so long as they're willing to listen and nod every few minutes.

My Vietnamese teacher is so used to this by now that she brings tissues to every class.

The key is to cultivate these relationships without the other party realising you are getting in some quality couch time.

By spreading your crazy out among many different people, you will keep these confidants mildly entertained without overwhelming anyone with your issues.

This Country Life Think you’re a real motorbike rider? Then Walter Person challenges you to tackle the Red Road of Death and everything that comes with it.

So you now have your automatic step-through motorbike with trendy matching helmet and jacket. Or you’ve picked up a nice little Honda Cub — the workhorse of the nation — or a reconditioned Minsk. You’re slipping through the traffic as a pretty cool motorbike rider in Vietnam.

Ha! City slickers! If you want to be a real bike rider you have to tackle the Red Road Of Death. Even Vietnamese fear the Red Road Of Death — the roads in the red laterite soil country that run from around Phan Thiet to Cambodia.

In the rains, the road becomes slimy, slippery and greasy. Immediately after a downpour, the surface is soggy.

It catches in your tyre tread, and you lose traction. If you keep the power on you might be able to go forward. You can’t brake. That means a spill, or at least the bike will slip from under you and you will have one foot deep in the red glue, hanging onto the handlebars

with the other foot still on the footrest. If you have to go uphill, forget it. Ah well, at least the wet season ends eventually.

But then, the mud turns to dust. At first it is bearable, but as bikes go back and forth the particles turn into what we Australians call bull dust — superfine red talc. On the surface, smooth, but underneath bearing breaking potholes or corrugations that shake you and your bike apart. Because it is the dry season, there’s very little breeze and this fine dust hangs in the air. One trip into town and you and your bike are covered in a red powder and your nose is blocked. That, among other things, is why we cover up.

On longer trips I wear the usual — jacket, long pants, a balaclava-style headcover, gloves, solid shoes. Apart from the dust, there are plenty of other things I need protection from. Stock trucks, especially pig trucks. Pig urine. Buckets of it. I much prefer to be covered

up than covered in urine.

Talking of livestock, there’s another hazard. Goats and cattle under control are pretty good. They are used to bikes and saunter. Calves can be a problem when separated from their mother, and ducks just get in the way. They are moved in flocks by a man with a stick with cotton on the end. You have to wait for them all to get across the road.

Chickens are impossible to hit. I have tried really hard, but they run fast. How can an animal with such a little brain — I know, I’ve eaten chicken heads — be so smart, when a dog with a big brain is so dumb? Dogs see you coming and they don’t know whether to run out and wag their tail at you, or be helpful and get out of your way.

Night-time driving on narrow rutted bush roads can be fun and adventurous. There are no street lamps outside town and very few inside. Cattle going home late unfortunately

don’t have tail-lights. It is easy to run up on them in the dark, as their brown hides do not really stand out. No matter how many times one flashes the high beams, cows persist.

So the only answer is to slow down to a crawl until they pass and the road becomes visible again.

Everyone knows about drivers with no headlights — switched off supposedly to save fuel. But what about headlamps? Many drivers in the countryside use them to work at night and often go out on the family’s worst bike with no lights of its own, using their headlamp to show the way. In the dark you cannot see anything but a single tiny beam shifting all over the place coming towards you like an extraterrestrial in search of a probe victim. Quite creepy the first time.

So the challenge is out. Prove yourself a proper bike rider by defeating the Red Road Of Death in the rain. asialife HCMC 85

pub quiz Hot Hot Hot 1. Errol Brown formed which chart topping band?

2. Who starred with Tony Curtis and Jack Lemon in Some Like it Hot? 3. Tennessee Williams won the Pulitzer Prize for Drama in 1955 with which play?

4. Which 1991 comedy spoof film starred Charlie Sheen and Lloyd Bridges?

5. Which city in southern England has the only natural hot springs in Great Britain?

Dust 6. Who earned an Oscar nomination in 1967 for his role as Benjamin Braddock?

7. What was the name of David Bowie’s flamboyant, androgynous alter ego?

8. The G7 is an international finance group consisting of the finance ministers from seven nations. What do these nations have in common?

9. Mary O’Brien had a hit with ‘The Son of a Preacher Man’.

How is she better known?

10. Which colour came into English from the Urdu and Hindustani words meaning “dusty” or “dust-coloured”?

19. The Strategic Defense Initiative was proposed

by US President Ronald Reagan in 1983. How was it commonly known?

20. In which constellation is the red super giant star Betelgeuse?

Moons 21. What position is held by Ban Ki-moon?

22. ‘Blue Moon’ is regarded as the anthem of which English football club?

23. Who played James Bond in the film Moonraker?

24. Which actor’s big break came playing as David Addison in Moonlighting?

25. Phobos and Deimos are moons which orbit which planet?

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Rain 11. ‘The Rain in Spain’ comes from which musical?

12. Which royal did Grace Kelly marry?

13. “I get the same old dreams same time every night, fall to the ground and I wake up.

So I get out of bed, put on my shoes and in my head thoughts fly back to the break up.” Who wrote these lyrics?

14. What colour is on the inside of the curve of a standard rainbow?

15. ‘Hey, Soul Sister’ was a massive worldwide hit for which band?

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Pub Quiz Answers

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1) Hot Chocolate 2) Marilyn Monroe 3) Cat on a Hot Tin Roof 4) Hot Shots!

5) Bath 6) Dustin Hoffman 7) Ziggy Stardust 8) They are industrialised 9) Dusty Springfield 10) Khaki 11) My Fair Lady 12) Prince Rainier III of Monaco 13) Rainbow 14) Violet 15) Train (groan) 16) Starfish 17) Starsky 18) Starbucks 19) Star Wars 20) Orion 21) Secretary-General of The United Nations 22) Manchester City 23) Roger Moore 24) Bruce Willis 25) Mars 26) Taylor Swift 27) Gene Simmons 28) Jay-Z (Shawn Corey Carter) 29) Sean Combs (P-Diddy, etc) 30) Robert Smith

16. How are the five-armed Asteroidea better known?

17. Paul Michael Glaser is best known for playing which crime fighting role?

18. Founded in 1971 in Seattle, which company now has 20,891 stores in 62 countries?