Research portfolio

Upliftment of the artisans of Tamil

Nadu

My three year works in Rajalakshmi College on the project “Technological Interventions for the Handicrafts of Tamil Nadu” under the “Department of Science and technology (DST), Delhi, and collaboration with Sei foundation, Chennai has been documented in the following pages.

Research Process

Bhavani Jamakkalam

Bhavani Jamakkalam is a renowned colourful carpet, made in Bhavani, a town in Erode district, in Tamil Nadu, India. The flamboyancy of Jamakkalam comes from the colors of red, blue, green, yellow, orange and white strips, which are the conventional colors to make a Jamakkalam.It got a Geographical Indication tag in 2005 due to its rich heritage.

Logo design

The main concept of the logo design is the stripes in the Jamakkalam, which is called as “A gundu pattern” by the weavers. It is one of the traditional patterns in Jamakkalam. This pattern and the colorful stripes is the identity of the Jamakkalam. Hence, the horizontal stripes are incorporated in the letter J which is of Kirimaru font, to make it minimalistic as well as contemporary, since it is the logo for contemporary products with the Jamakkalam

Bhavani Jamakkalam -Ttraditional pattern

Design process

Stripes (Ae gundu) J Kirimaru font

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(Kirimaru and Colabero font)

Mat design

Since the artisans of the Jamakkalam community use the same traditional designs and colour combinations, contemporary designs with novel colour combinations according to the current trends are given to improve their market and their economy.

Both the mats are designed in minimalistic and contemporary style with simle horizontal patterns and traditional patterns used by the artisans, with new colour combinations. The centre of the mat has the design of twisted yarns,with a mix of two colours, localled called as ‘Ururu nool’. Color

Book design

Team work

Team KURAL did a book design on Bhavani Jamakkalam in collaboration with SEI foundation. The purpose of the book is to give insights into the traditional knowledge of Jamakkalam which has been passed on through various generations. This is the first attempt that has ever been made in creating a documentation book for Jamakkalam.

The book contains the detailed making process of Jamakkalam, starting from the dyeing process, spinning process, and traditional designs to the weaving process. The pit looms which are used by the jamakkalam weavers were measured and a detailed drawing has been documented to get a peek into their working environment and working culture. Other than these, the loom parts, the weaving, and the fabric structure of jamakkalam have been analyzed and documented. The traditional designs with their vernacular language have also been cataloged for future generations to use as a reference.

In addition to this, we have also done ergonomic analysis. We are one of the very few who have taken the initiative to do an ergonomic analysis for the artisans, stressing the significance of it in the handicraft industry, as the craft will sustain only if the craftsmen are healthy.

My role:

• Documentation, Research and analysis with other team members

• Writing the contents of the book

• Book design with my colleague

• Ergonomic analysis (Working environment and working posture analysis)

Sneak peak

WARP - Lengthwise yarns WEFT - Crosswise

Warp and wefts are basic components of weaving. The warp yarns are lengthwise yarns, stretched and tied to the looms during the setting up process of the loom. The weft yarns are crosswise yarns that go through the warp yarns with the help of a throw shuttle, converting into a tightly woven fabric. The warp yarns are white in colour while the weft yarns are

Warp and weft yarns

Yarn order

Ethnomathematics is the study of the relationship between maths and culture. In Bhavani, they have used traditional measuring systems such as molam, thiri, pootu and kandam for segregating the yarns. They have seen anthropometrics while separating the yarns for easy handling of it.

Kandam (based on weight)

Bundle (12 thiri) Bale (40 bundles)

1 bale of 6s yarns weigh 4.6 kg | 1bale of 10s yarns weigh about 5.2 kg

The cotton yarns are supplied by the Government and Private society in bales to the dyeing society. These cotton yarns are mixed with 10% to 12% of polyester as per Government regulation to give extra strength and durability.

The bale is a large bunch of yarns containing numerous bundles of yarns. This cannot be used for the dyeing purpose since it is larger in size and hence the colour does not evenly spread to all the cotton fibres. Hence, the bale is segregated into 40 bundles. This has been segregated by keeping in mind the anthropometrics. These bundles are easier to carry around the women shoulders and make it easier to dye since it is lighter than the bale.

Each bundle is again separated into twelve groups, locally called thiri, which will be separated by a thread. Each thiri is again separated into five groups locally called Pootu, and each pootu is divided into five small groups of yarns locally called kandam. The kandam is the length of the hand starting from the fingertip to the elbow(1 molam) and it is the minimum length that cannot be further separated.

Pootu (5 kandam) Thiri (5 pootu)

Dyeing process

The dyeing process consists of two methods: Direct colour locally called Matta Saayam and Fast colour locally called Ketti Saayam.

In direct colour, the yarns are dyed using cold water while in fast colour, the yarns are dyed in boiling water of 40ºC to 50ºC. Fast colour dyeing is a better process for dyeing since the colour doesn’t fade away easily even after years. While in direct colour, the colour slowly starts to fade away after three years, making the quality better in fast colour. Half the percentage of yarns are dyed for the Government and the other half for private societies. In the beginning, natural vegetable dyes were used, but later it was replaced with chemical dyes due to the high expense of the natural dyes.

In direct colour, a well made up of cement locally called Thaali is filled with water. It can hold up to 200 litres of water. Next to the well, there is a small plastic container with water mixed with the colour dye in concentrated form. In the cement well, the colour-dyed water is less concentrated with around 180 litres of water mixed with a small amount of colour dye. The colour dye powder is placed next to the well for easy access while dyeing. Next to the well, on the left side, there is an iron pole in a T shape locally called Kitti maram.

Yarns immersed in the well with the dyed water

The dyed yarns are placed on the Kitti maram

Weaving process

The weaving of jamakkalam involves the basic weaving processes of any other woven fabric. After setting up the pit looms and loading the throw shuttle with weft yarns, there are few process or motions involved in the weaving of jamakkalam. They are shedding, picking in, beating up.

The shedding process involves creating a shed between the even-numbered and odd-numbered yarns loaded in two different heddles/healds or achuvadi respectively. This process is operated by pedaling the treadle/medhi palagai once with legs.

The picking process involves throwing the shuttle loaded with weft yarns from right to left or vice versa inside the shed formed in one hand.

The beating up process involves packing the weft yarns with help of the achu pannai/reed. The achu pannai packs the weft yarns in the shed tightly by moving them towards the weaver.

These three motions are repeated in the other direction (from the left to the right). Repeating this process various times results in weaving.

The hands of the weaver will reach up to the distance of achupannai. When the woven jamakkalam reaches that distance it is rolled onto the cloth beam or padamaram attached to the modakkatai with the help of an iron rod called kadapaarai . This is process is repeated whenever woven jamakkalam reaches the distance of achupannai/reed till the completion of jamakkalam. The process of winding up woven jamakkalam to cloth beam is called the Taking up of the jamakkalam. The woven jamakkalam is then cut and removed from the pit loom after the completion of the weaving process.

Ergonomics

Ergonomics is the study of human behaviour and their performances and applying it to design. It assesses the risk factors involved in the work by analyzing their working postures and their working environment.

Ergonomics plays a significant role in all workplaces to improve the well-being of individuals and their performances. It makes their tasks easier and faster, thus improving their productivity.

Handicrafts is one of the most significant industries in India producing employment in a wide sector. The work of the artisans requires intense labour and a long-time duration to create beautiful art pieces. But due to the awkward postures while working and constant repetitive movements, a lot of the artisans face permanent musculoskeletal disorders when ignored.

Even though ergonomics is assessed for all corporate workplaces, there are very few who do an ergonomic assessment for the handicraft industry. But it is very significant and mandatory for this industry since the majority of the work has immense drudgery involved with a poor working environment. Hence, it is required to promote better postures for the artisans and to improve their efficiency and health.

To assess ergonomics, there are various instruments and assessment methods developed. Each assessment method assesses particular risk factors and body parts. Through observation and survey, the score of the risk factor of each body part is calculated. In the end, either equations or tabular columns, the amount of risk involved in the work is calculated to give suitable interventions for them.

Ergonomic Analysis

One of the ergonomic assessment methods developed is called ART (Assessment of Repetitive tasks). It is used to assess the risk factors of repetitive tasks. It assesses the frequency and repetition, awkward postures such as the head, neck, back, arm and wrist posture, finger grip, force and additional factors such as breaks, work pace, psychosocial factors and time duration.

ART ergonomic assessment method is used for assessing the ergonomics of the artisans of Bhavani Jamakkalam. Through observation, the risk factors are assessed to get a risk score. A score of 0 -11 is considered low risk, 12 - 21 is considered a medium risk and 22 or more is considered high risk. For jamakkalam, the exposure score is 29, which is considered a high risk.

Pattamadai Pai

Pattamadai mats are thin and delicate mats woven in Thanjavur, in southern India. The mats are handwoven with Cyperus pangorei Rottb, also called as Korai grass. It has various health benefits due to its cooling quality. The mat was used for daily purposes due to its various health benefits and was also used in wedding ceremonies of South India. It got the GI tag (Geographical indications tag) in 2013.

Mat design

Kolam pai design is inspired from traditional decorative art ‘kolam’, drawn in the entrances symbolising warm welcome. It is a blend of symmetric geometries in a wide range of russet colours.

Design

Poster design

Poster design for Pattamadai Pai as a Yoga mat

Art plate

Art plate is a cultural heritage craft, of the Thanjavur district, a city in south India. It’s a unique and a traditional art, made up of metals such as brass, copper and silver. It practices the damascening technique, which is encrusting one metal sheet onto other metal. The art plates are commonly used as decorative pieces and shields and has been encrusted in jewelry boxes, trays, and many more items, to be presented as gifts on festivals, and special occasions. It got GI (Geographical Indication) tag in 2016.

Documentation

The making process of the art plate craft has been documented step by step to preserve the knowledge for the future generation

Design Interventions

Contemporary designs are created according to the current trends to improve the market and economy. The art palte esigns are incorporated in products such as photo frame designs, jewel box, diaries for a global reach.

Art plate

Contemporary designs were developed with geometrical patterns in reference to mandala. It is to improve the artisans market

Design

Design output

Jewel box

A jewellery box small and handy, easily carried while travelling. The art plate design has been incorporated in the jewel box with a traditional pattern designed with basic shapes and symmetry. The jewel box is made up of brass and copper sheets with designs are stuck on the box following the damascening technique.

Small jewellery box - 3” x 3”

Items that can be kept:

- Bangles - size 2.4 to 2.10

- Rings, earrings and studs, chains

- Has a lock for safety

- Mirror can be assessed without opening the jewellery box, by sliding the top of the box.

- Extra storage at the top and the bottom of the jewellery box, which can be assessed by sliding.

Jewel box drawings

Photo frame

The art plate designs were incorporated in contemporary applications such as Photo frames with the use of brass and copper metals with the themes of Zodiac sign, Music and others.

The Aquarius photo frame is designed with its ruling planet Saturn and its symbol of water barrier. The water flowing is designed with steam punk design for a modern outlook.

The Music photo frame is designed in the art plate style with the base as copper frame and instruments and other music elements designed in brass and stuck on it.

Aquarius photo frame design

Music photo frame design