A Taste of AZ Magazine Spring 2023

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a taste of az

the stories of arizona food & beverage

hidden hotspots

glai baan

brewery taprooms

glai baan drinkable art 10 must visit brewery taprooms hidden hotspots el chorro food trucks in phoenix hula’s captains cabin essence agustin kitchen piccolo virtù 12 18 24 30 36 42 47 52 58 62 table of contents 5

publisher’s note

Arizona continues to establish itself as a food and drink lovers’ hot spot. With so many places to choose from and a limited budget, how do you even begin to decide where to go? Luckily, you have the A Taste of AZ team to help guide you. With a range of experienced writers and contributors, our goal is to curate a true cross-section of what our wonderful state offers. From craft beer to the finest of dining, the options seem to be endless, but the team works to create a continual flow of suggestions to help guide you. However, this is just a starting point, so we encourage you to venture out on your own and pave your Arizona food and drink path.

our team:

Luke Irvin

Eric Walters

Christina Barrueta

Alison Bailin Batz

Marci Symington

Steven Larson

Isaac Stockton

Luke Irvin

Eric Walters photos

design

Luke Irvin

Marci Symington

Isaac Stockton

Paige Irvin

publishing writing
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Glai Baan

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“I drove by the building and thought, ‘this is perfect,’ so I turned around,” remembers Dan Robinson, “I stood on the planters to look in the windows, peeked over the fence, and then got Cat and we sat across the street at Bink’s to talk about it.” “And I agreed, it was perfect!,” adds Pornsupak “Cat” Bunnag (pictured on pg 12), a Bangkok native. Robinson and Bunnag had been searching for a space to share the Thai street food dishes Cat cooked at home, and in 2017 a cozy Midtown bungalow was transformed into Glai Baan.

“When we agreed on everything, Cat immediately flew to Thailand to buy antiques and plateware,” says Robinson, and the charming cottage was restyled as a labor of love. “We literally did every single thing ourselves. Every paint stroke, every piece of art, every café curtain and every table and chair. We found wood in a parking lot, bought furniture on OfferUp and Craig’s List, sanded and stained, and Cat drew the sign on a napkin.”

“I remember the night we took the paper off the windows,” he continues. “We had our lights on and our mascot Doraemon up, ran outside, looked up at the sign, and it was just so cool.” “We kept saying to ourselves, it’s just so cute, it’s the cutest restaurant ever,” adds Bunnag with a laugh. “We loved it so much and were just so excited to share it.”

The plans were to ease into the public opening—“the first night we invited our neighbors and the second night our friends in the industry,” says Cat—but by the third night the news had spread. “We were busy super-fast.” “I remember thinking, how do all these people know about us?,” says Robinson, “but Cat knew that was going to happen.” “I did always say that we were going to be crazy busy,” admits Bunnag with a smile.

For fervid fans, Bunnag’s favorite street food dishes of Bangkok and northeastern Thailand fuel the draw. With just 50 seats, a small bar nook, and a lush fenced-in patio, reservations are a must to avoid the walk-in waits. Captivating the palate is a menu divided into small plates designed for

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sharing along with soups and noodle and rice dishes. Alongside is a just-as-stellar beverage program, which was recently announced as a James Beard Award semifinalist for Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program. In addition to a thoughtfully curated wine list and Thai and local craft brews, the inventive cocktail list abounds with the essence of Thailand. One such example is the signature Laab-sided, created by former barkeep Maxwell Berlin, which was an immediate breakout hit. Inspired by the flavors of laab, a Thai salad, and a classic gin drink called a South Side, it artfully combines refreshing and savory by using cucumber-infused vodka, a green onion and shallot simple syrup, and a dash of fish sauce for a pop of salinity.

The cuisine’s celebrated hot-sour-salty-sweet counterbalance of flavors is seen in dishes like somtum. A vibrant salad of shredded green papaya, tomatoes and yardlong beans tossed with a tangy dressing of fish sauce, chiles, and lime, it can also be ordered with nuggets of crispy pork belly or umami-rich salted crab. Kanom jeeb (pictured above left), juicy pork and scallion dumplings, are another fan favorite. “I prep by making at least 139 orders of dumpling every single day,” says Cat. You can’t go wrong with Silom Road moo ping, skewers of grilled pork marinated in coconut milk, soy and garlic, and on my last visit with a group of friends, we unanimously agreed to order a second round of peek gai tod, fried marinated chicken wings accompanied by a ramekin of chile-spiked jaew sauce.

Don’t miss the chalkboard, which might list specials like crab curry, banana blossom salad with shrimp and lychee, or whole fried snapper with mango salad. In fact, dishes that were once specials have migrated to the permanent menu due to popular demand such as the soul-satisfying Panang curry with tender braised beef, roasted peppers, and bamboo shoots. And if you order the smoked mackerel fried rice, you’ll see why this was recognized by PHOENIX Magazine as one of the 101 Best Dishes in the Valley.

Glai Baan is roughly translated from Thai as “far from home” and it brings great joy for Cat to share her beloved food memories with its guests. “It’s the street-style food I miss, and I knew people would love it too,” says Cat, whose dream was “a neighborhood restaurant that would make people happy.” Mission accomplished.

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SINCE THE LATE 1800S, THE ZANJEROS WOULD TRAVEL NEAR AND FAR BY HORSEBACK, OPENING OUR CANALS TO ENSURE WATER FLOWS OUT OF OUR FAUCETS AND GROW OUR CROPS. WITHOUT THESE "DITCH RIDERS", NOT ONLY WOULD WE NOT HAVE WATER, BUT WE WOULDN’T HAVE BEER! FOR THIS REASON, WE GIVE THANKS TO THE ZANJEROS. THIS IPA FLOWS FREELY WITH CITRUS FRUIT-FORWARD HOPS SO AROMATIC THAT NO GATE CAN HOLD IT BACK.

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Drinkable Art

Many of the greatest pieces of modern art are not hidden behind thick glass in museums. Rather, they are being poured into glasses and readily available to the thirsty masses at a bar or restaurant in your own backyard. Yes, we are talking about cocktails; and those in particular that offer a show right along with each sip via aromatics, garnishes, juxtaposing flavor profiles, and unusual combinations of spirits from around the world.

Bumbu No. 5 at Mora Italian

The Home: This dark, dreamy Phoenix hotspot is the brainchild of celebrity chef Scott Conant and showcases some of the valley’s finest Italian cuisine. Visitors are blessed with a bar team which deserves the spotlight as much as the team in the kitchen.

The Specs: Remember rum punch? This is it, but not, but yes. Think rum punch 2.0. It starts with Bumbu Rum, which has a dreamy combination of banana, baking spices, caramel and even chocolate on the palate. It is combined with apple cider. I know, right? The mixture also has a healthy dose of star anise and is topped with sweet, red Rosa Regale sparkling wine and tons of ice and kumquats.

Sex & Violets at The Genuine

The Home: The Genuine leapt onto the scene and wasted no time making itself known despite opening in Uptown Phoenix just last year. This upscale neighborhood eatery sets itself apart by elevating its experiential cocktails, and is soaring to higher heights than its cocktail cousins Little Woody and The Womack (also under the locally owned business’ umbrella).

The Specs: Familiar with fee foam? It is an elixir that can froth up a cocktail without the use of egg whites, a win for vegetarian and vegan mixology enthusiasts out there. Here, the fee foam is shaken with an intoxicating blend of simple syrup, fresh lemon, indigo-colored Empress Gin, and crème de Violette, which is made from macerated violets and brandy.

Berries & Bubbles at Ocean Prime

The Home: Ocean Prime is a High Street hotspot most often lauded for its fresh seafood and utterly decadent steak. But do not sleep on the bar program here, which is centered on elevating spirits by kissing them with freshly pressed juices and kitchen-made tonics, sours, and syrups. Ocean Prime also spotlights upand-coming talent through a company-wide associate beverage development program.

The Specs: Berries & Bubbles has been the venue’s best-seller for years thanks to its combination of Grand Marnier-soaked blackberries, house proprietary sour recipe, Belvedere Citrus Vodka, fresh lemon juice, and Crème de Cassis, which is a sweet liqueur made from black currants. Certainly, the Domaine Chandon Brut sparkling wine and dry ice smoke, which give it a fire and ice vibe to the eye and nose, do not hurt either.

La Traviesa at JT Prime Kitchen

The Home: JT Prime Kitchen and Cocktails is an Old Town Scottsdale haunt that pairs modern steakhouse favorites with globally inspired flavors. This extends to the cocktail program, which makes it a point to boldly garnish all of its cocktails with locally sourced flowers and floral elements.

The Specs: At first, with its Don Julio Anejo, agave, fresh citrus, and orange salt, it sounds like a standard margarita, right? Try again. This agave cocktail, which loosely translates to “Naughty,” has a luscious float of Cabernet Sauvignon, completely changing the flavor profile in every sip. It feels a touch like a Tequila Sunrise, but with far more nuanced characteristics.

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Tijuana Mama at 50 Shades

The Home: 50 Shades of…Up until recently, this central Scottsdale bar was called 50 Shades of Rosé. Awash in red and pink with art installations, neon signs, and more than 10,000 imitation roses hung in every direction, and every drink was designed with dames in mind. The owners, however, had a trick up their sleeves. Turns out they had planned to change the thematic elements of the space all along, updating cocktails along the way. This spring, it will transform into 50 Shades of Sake, taking on Asian influences.

The Specs: Almost everything will be changing over, with the exception of the most popular cocktails, including this sexy little number that should be nicknamed Harry Styles (because it gives all the “Watermelon Sugar” feels). To make, smooth Maestro Dobel Tequila is paired with Ghost Tequila—agave tequila infused with the infamous, India-born ghost pepper—lime, and copious freshly pressed watermelon juice. It is served with a slice of watermelon topped with Tajin, which is also rimmed along the glass for added spice and visual appeal.

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Adam Bomb at Liberty Station

The Home: Liberty Station American Tavern and Smokehouse has been a family-owned staple in DC Ranch and Carefree for years. Locals love its oft-Tiki themed and classic cocktails as much as their American food with regional touches. Beverage director Adam Downey is a true talent and mentor to countless aspiring slingers of all things spirited.

The Specs: Holy torched cinnamon, Batman! This tall beauty starts with Templeton Rye Whiskey. That whiskey, known for its wood, spice and touch of brown sugar notes, is combined with strawberry, lime juice, and cinnamon. They top the concoction with a honey-infused coconut cream float, mint sprig garnish, and topping of a touch more cinnamon. Finally, a handheld torch is used to light the spices on fire tableside.

The Home: Tommy Bahama, a Kierland Commons staple for more than 20 years honors all things tropical.

The Specs: While they grow throughout Arizona now, grapefruit was actually discovered in Barbados in the mid-1700s when two orange varietals crossed paths. Each day, the bar team hand squeezes 50 to 75 grapefruits solely for the cocktail, using the juice of approximately one in each cocktail build. It is combined muddled with fresh basil, which is native to tropical regions around the world, ice, and Grey Goose Vodka. House-made simple syrup is added and the contents of the shaker are given a quick shake before being strained into a martini glass and garnished with fruit and basil.

Iron Tiger at Toro

The Home: Welcome to Toro Latin Restaurant & Rum Bar at the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess. Celebrity chef Richard Sandoval developed this stunning eatery to honor the vibrance of Latin America and the precise elegance of Asian influence.

The Specs: Toro features over 75 rum labels–the most in Arizona. This is the spot for an authentic experience, and it does not get better than the Iron Tiger. Toro’s signature cocktail, which features a blended Japanese whiskey and barrel aged rum, served as a ceremony to be honored before bring enjoyed.

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Grapefruit Basil Martini at Tommy Bahama

Honeydew List at Wren & Wolf

The Home: Wren & Wolf is equal parts Phoenix coffee shop, cocktail bar, fine-dining destination, and modern nightclub complete all in one. Expect exceptionally eccentric-yet-excellent cocktail offers with over-the-top presentation and clever flavor combinations.

The Specs: Given the name, melon liqueur is on display here, as is freshly pressed juice from a honeydew melon, both combining to give the drink a vibrant hue. The delicate sweetness from the melon is balanced with botanical gin and both lemon and lime juices. It also has pisco, which is a South American brandy just finding its footing in the United States, and Amaro Pasubio, an aged, aromatized wine made from mountain berries in the Trentino region of Italy. The Honeydew List is finished with white vinegar, which adds a layer of acid.

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P H O EN I C I A N 6 000 e. ca m e lb a ck r o a d | s c o t t sd al e , a z 8 5 2 51 4 80 214 8000 jg s te a kh o us e sc o t t sd al e c o m ATOP the PHOENICIAN OPEN NIGHTLY

SMELTERTOWN

Clarkdale, Arizona was founded as a town to support the vibrant mining industry just up the hill in Jerome, smelting their copper ore into finished metal. Along the historic Main Street of Clarkdale, you will find Smelter Town Brewing, housed in a beautiful 100-year-old brick building. The brewery and taproom sit on the ground floor of the 9-room boutique Park Hotel. Large windows expose Town Park, and the patio provides an even closer look. Be sure to try the Modern Miner Milkshake IPA, a smooth yet hoppy brew with an incredibly soft mouth feel.

10 MUST VISIT BREWERY TAPROOMS BORDERLANDS

Borderlands Brewing (pictued below and right) just opened a second location in Tucson, but the original taproom has a special atmosphere. The large brick building was erected over 100 years ago by a legendary local produce company. Since, Borderlands has covered the interior walls in Dia De Los Muertos art created by local artist Jennifer North. A rustic vibe permeates the entire spot outward into a massive patio space. Be sure to soak up one of their Sonoran-inspired beers, including Horchata Cream Ale and Citrana Southwestern Gose.

crooked tooth

Two large antique garage doors take up the entire front of the Crooked Tooth Brewing taproom, which is built inside a beautifully converted brick auto garage. While sitting at the wooden counters that line the tall doors, patrons can feel the energy of the city as they enjoy distinctive beers. These counters, as well as the massive table tops, are made from blue beetle pine hand milled by the owners Ben and Julie Vernon. The crew tops the tables with fresh flowers that often match the bright colors of Crooked Tooth’s beers, including their Sonoran Sour series and Crooked Light–an excellent Mexican light lager. Enjoy some outdoors and fun games on the back patio as well.

arizona wilderness DTPHX

Six years after opening its original location in Gilbert, Arizona Wilderness Brewing opened its second location in downtown Phoenix. The taproom is a large location that combines indoor and outdoor space seamlessly. The walls tell the story of Arizona Wilderness through pictures, words, and diagrams; a brewery that reveres the outdoors and the environment. Flow into the outdoor area to find fire pits, tons of seating, and a second bar fabricated from a storage container. Grab an Arizona Grass Raised Beef burger and a Desert Wheat ale for a true taste of Arizona.

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bone haus

The large wooden front door at Bone Haus Brewing hints at the unique experience you are about to have. The story of every beer revolves around the history-influenced fiction story of Hans Von Bierman and his adventures around Arizona in the 1800s. Inspired by European ossuaries, you immediately step into another world when you walk into this Fountain Hills taproom. While enjoying a unique beer such as Englemann’s Elixir Prickly Pear Pale, try to find one of the two real human bones hidden in the taproom.

dark sky

Since opening in 2014, Dark Sky Brewing has seen a few changes to the flow of its taproom. Each change has brought more beauty and function to this beloved Flagstaff brewery. With the brew house in full view, guests can often catch the brewing process unfolding. The 2020 addition of local pizza legend Pizzicletta brought forth a tantalizing food option and the ever-present aroma of one Arizona’s best pies. In 2022, Dark Sky purchased the location next door. The expansion includes a new kitchen led by a local food legend and the best patio in town.

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grand avenue

Grand Avenue Brewing brings a delicious Belgian flare to their beer and is a hidden gem in the Phoenix brewery scene. Their taproom is located in a brick industrial building in the Grand Avenue Arts District and features a large garage door that invites bright natural light. An in-house smoker creates some incredible dishes including loaded baked potatoes, brats, and mac-n-cheese. Dig in and enjoy some food and beer in their outdoor seating area, complete with fire pits and comfy Adirondack chairs.

front pourch

Adding character to a taproom that sits in an industrial park can be a challenging task. However, the family at Front Pourch Brewing has nailed it. Old barnwood lines nearly the entire interior including an old Western storefront facade. An old 2-story grain silo sits in one corner and they made the light shades from old hop baskets. Framed vintage black and white photos show the baskets in action at hop farms. Of course, there is a range of beer to enjoy by the pint or taste on their rustic galvanized tin flight boards.

mother road

The Mother Road Brewing taproom sits right along the original Route 66, and is a must-visit for any beer lover visiting or living in Flagstaff. Housed in an old steam laundry building, the high ceilings and large windows create a cozy yet spacious feel. Plenty of outdoor seating is available, as well including heaters and firepits, so you can enjoy the snow but stay toasty. The Roadside Stove food menu has been curated by local bbq legend Satchmo’s, so grab a plate and a pint of one of the most popular beers in Arizona, Tower Station IPA.

b.r.i. arcade

The second location of Mesa’s Beer Research Institute is an arcade lovers’ dream and is in the heart of the resurrected downtown Mesa. Owner Matt Tretheway carefully curates the games in this 4000-square-foot taproom, including classics such as Donkey Kong and Street Fighter. However, we suggest using your coins on some of the lesser-known gems including Tapper, a game where the player serves beers to demanding patrons. A full row of pinball machines will keep the “pinheads” busy for hours.

844.534.HOPE or 988 CRISIS LINE 24 | 7 | 365

hidden hotspots

Though most assume the term “speakeasy” came about in the 1920s during Prohibition, it was actually coined in the 1880s by a newspaper to describe a saloon selling alcohol without a license. More than 130 years later, the term is used a lot. Like, a lot a lot. Especially as it relates to the growing number of tucked-away treasures innovating cocktail culture each day right here in the Valley of the Sun.

And while the term is fine, the only actual crime (other than its overuse, which is a crime against grammar) would be missing out on these clandestine cocktail bars simply because they are tougher to track down. Always eager to help anyone to a perfect happy hour, here are 8 great spots worth seeking out the next time you want to sip on modern mixology at its finest.

Garden Bar

Sometimes the best sneaky spots are hidden in plain sight. There is a charming white house, complete with a picket fence out front, located on 6th Avenue just south of Roosevelt in Phoenix. But this is not just any early 1900s California Bungalow-style home. This is actually Garden Bar, the brainchild of cocktail cookbook author (she has eight available at last count) Kim Haasarud and winner of both Phoenix Magazine’s 2022 Best New Cocktail Bar and the 2022 Foodist Award for Superb Bar. Both its expansive cocktail and mocktails, which change regularly, are inspired by taking the garden and translating it into something special in a glass.

Downtown Phoenix

undertow

When it was founded in 2016, initially located under Sip Coffee in Arcadia in a former oil change bay, UnderTow set a new standard for bars across the Southwest. Set inside a fictitious 19th Century clipper ship, the immersive cocktail bar helped Arizona earn national acclaim. Now located next door to Sip inside Century Grand, UnderTow (one of three cocktail concepts in the building) is a little bigger and the lights a little brighter, but they never outshine each year’s new menu of cocktails that captivate all five senses. A word of warning: the menu will have at least 20 spirits you have never heard of, but do not let that intimidate you. The team behind the bar are experts at breaking them down and helping guests choose the right alcohol-infused adventure that suits them best.

gilbert & arcadia

the white rabbit

There is a curious red light on the south wall of the Heritage building in downtown Gilbert. As you approach it, if your party has a secret password (available by going to The White Rabbit’s website and signing up for the VIP list), then the red light shall lead to adventure. Beyond the light is a 1920s-style apothecary, but with plush tables and chairs inside. It’s run by the fictional (or is he?) Dr. O’Hare, whose team can “prescribe” alcoholic concoctions to cure whatever “ails” each guest. The “prescriptions” are available on a menu divided by spiritforward, refreshing, vintage, and sometimes seasonal categories.

Downtown gilbert

prime bar

While many of the other prime spots are underground, the actual Prime Bar is high in the sky. On the 11th floor of Wild Horse Pass Resort and Casino to be exact. It is the extension of Prime, A Shula’s Steak House, which is similarly on the 11th floor. But this is no mere hotel bar. Not by a longshot. An indooroutdoor architectural wonder, it faces west to maximize the sun setting over the nearby mountains each night, a truly magnificent site to behold from on high. Once the sun goes down, the bar glows by the light of the moon, thanks to the chic design of the space. The only thing that rivals the ambiance are the cocktails. There is a clear focus on higher-end spirits as well as elegant updates to classic cocktails, but the bartenders have their fun as well, dreaming up whimsical seasonal and weekly offerings destined to be new classics.

gila river resorts & casino

the parlour room

Opened in late 2021, this sister concept to the White Rabbit is in the basement courtyard level of the Heritage Building so patrons can conveniently enjoy both The White Rabbit Cocktail Bar and The Parlour Room concepts in the same evening. It delves deeper into Dr. O’Hare’s tail...err, tale...and is awash in red lights from floor to ceiling. It also delves deeper into the martini, offering a laundry list of options, plus has DJs and other entertainment all its own. Bonus: it requires no password.

Downtown gilbert

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trophy room

Shrouded in mystery, this new cocktail spot (pictured below) is from the eclectic, inventive minds that launched Wren & Wolf, a bar and restaurant in downtown Phoenix. Opened in late winter 2023, Trophy Room is not even allowing photography inside the bar, professional or personal (our photos were taken in the hallway outside). It is accessible for those in the know through Wren & Wolf, and the long hallway one takes to reach it is ominous in the best way possible. But yes, that means to enjoy it, guests must check their phones at the door. Each seating is just 90 minutes, and there are never more than approximately 40 seated in the intimate space at one time. So, is it worth it? Oh, very much yes. But that is all we can say..for now.

pigtails

In 2018, the Whining Pig—previously a small beer and wine bar with locations in more urban neighborhoods—opened an expansive location at Desert Ridge. Why so much space? Because there is a secret inside. Upon entering, there is a beer bar like the others in the Valley. However, pass that bar and head into the dark hallway toward the bathroom signs. Just past the bathrooms, there is an entrance to a seperate bar with no signage anywhere. That is Pigtails (there is also a hidden entrance outside even harder to find, but once inside, push the bookcase and it reveals itself). Dark with a full wall of green succulents, an expansive bar and low booths, Pigtails features both traditional and more exotic drink options using barrel-aged whiskies, house-infused spirits, and scented mists. Its popularity allowed the brand to grow, and now there is a second Pigtails hidden in downtown Phoenix just barely visible to onlookers paying attention on Washington Street near 1st Street as well.

Downtown Phoenix & North Scottsdale

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Downtown Phoenix

rough rider

This truly creative concept—think upscale Victorian aesthetic meets modern cocktail techniques meets Teddy Roosevelt fan club—is also from the mind of Pigtails co-owner Kyla Dahl. And it is even harder to find! Rough Rider is in the basement of the Ten-O-One building on Roosevelt Row and is accessible by a time machine. Okay, it is accessible by elevator, but it may as well be a time machine as it transports guests to another world; a dimly lit one from the 1800s filled with wood, lanterns, vintage books, and a massive portrait of original member of the Rough Riders (look it up, kids) Teddy Roosevelt himself. The cocktail menu continues the theme, going as far as to offer cobblers, which are jam-based cocktails popular in that era. Expect deft mixology skill from today complemented by a robust food program featuring both shareable plates and larger rustic entrees inspired by Roosevelt’s era, including game meats.

Downtown Phoenix

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The Legacy of El Chorro, an Iconic Valley Landmark

“Clark Gable joined us many times, and this is a handwritten thank-you card he sent to the Grubers,” general manager Ryan Prentiss told us as we passed the historic stationary around our table. Last August, the Gallery Room at El Chorro was filled with a sold-out crowd who had gathered for a special wine dinner commemorating its legacy. The menu by executive chef Charles Kassels featured such classics as vichyssoise, lobster thermidor, chateaubriand and cherries jubilee, culled from El Chorro’s recipe collection. Arranged around the room were photographs, paintings, and keepsakes, and throughout the evening Prentiss regaled us with stories and tales of bygone years.

El Chorro was originally built in 1934 as the Judson School for Girls. In 1937, Mark and Janet Gruber purchased the property, transforming it into a restaurant and bar with a 12-room lodge. An advertisement announcing its grand opening in 1938 proclaimed, “The attractive Spanish design of El Chorro Lodge will immediately

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attract those who seek secluded privacy on the famed desert surrounding Phoenix.” World travelers, the Grubers introduced the now-famous sticky bun recipe and collaborated on classics like beef stroganoff and trout almandine, and famous guests during this era included Clark Gable, John Wayne, and Zsa Zsa Gabor.

In 1973, the Grubers sold the property to Joe Miller, a bartender who had worked at El Chorro, along with his wife Evie, for over 25 years. The Millers retired in 2009 and the property was acquired by Jacquie Dorrance, who kept her vow to honor the legacy of El Chorro while restoring its grandeur and expanding its footprint. Under her tenure, changes included a new bar opening to the outdoors, a larger patio and striking entry courtyard and fountain. In 2021, Grossman Company Properties, a real estate and hospitality management company, took the reins and continues to maintain its historic character.

Today, El Chorro encompasses 4,800 square feet of dining and bar space and 7,500 square feet of picturesque patio areas, and is sought after for weddings and events (during the Super Bowl, the NFL rented out the entire property for 10 days). Executive chef Charles Kassels, an industry veteran of over 30 years, helms the kitchen and shapes its current culinary vision. I had a chance to sit down with Chef Kassels in the beautiful Landmark Room at El Chorro to learn more.

How did you choose the recipes for the legacy dinner?

There were probably about 200 recipes in the book, and I believe I took a menu from ‘58. Since it was summer, the vichyssoise, a chilled soup, made sense. A lot of the old recipes were really heavy, so I lightened that one and made it more modern. We could get fresh lobster, so that was the lobster thermidor, and for the chateaubriand and cherries jubilee, I long for the days of tableside carts. I wanted to have fun with it and for the dinner to be something guests couldn’t get anywhere else. It sold out in half an hour.

Besides the famous sticky buns, what are some other El Chorro classics?

The fried lobster, chicken livers, shrimp cocktails, beef stroganoff, and trout almandine.

How have you put your touch on them?

The shrimp cocktail is the original recipe, but the stroganoff used to be a lot heavier on the cream and sour cream and we’ve lightened that up. From red wine we went to sweet vermouth, and added a bit more demi-glace. It’s a great dish. We changed the trout to sustainable Ruby Red from Idaho. It’s a cleaner, really tasty fish.

How else has the menu evolved over the years?

We’ve made concessions to modern times. There’s a gluten-free chopped vegan salad. There’s more seafood on the menu. It used to just be the trout and salmon, and now we have a seafood pasta and a fish special. We now sell about 50/50 between fish and meat, and it’s worked out really well.

What’s it like to work here?

This place is so unique because in most places the chef’s or owner’s ego sort of makes the restaurant, but here I truly believe the property makes the restaurant what it is. It’s humbling. You can have fun, but the property is bigger than we are, and we try to keep within the framework. I really feel we’re a steward for the property for the next generation.

What do you enjoy most?

The people, and the atmosphere. It’s literally an oasis in the valley on 12 acres. You look that way, and you see Camelback, you look the other way and there’s Mummy Mountain. And the guests are great. People come here to show off Arizona. If you have an out-of-town guest, this is one of the places you need to take them to. This speaks Arizona.

El Chorro, 5550 E Lincoln Dr, Paradise Valley, AZ 85253

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Random af taqueria

(pictured below & on the right)

This popular food truck specializes in Birria, but all of their tacos and food options are to die for! RandomAF Taqueria is backed by a passionate and humble owner, Enrique. His story of the food truck is one of humble beginnings and one that paints a story of a resilient food truck owner, who had to pivot career goals as COVID’s wrath swept its way through our state in 2020. Enrique began his journey into the food truck business while he provided local togo taco nights in his community during the lockdown. His food, and more specifically his birria, was catching such rave reviews that with the encouragement of his family he decided to launch what we know today as RandomAF Taqueria. For myself, a novice to Mexican cuisine, I was unacquainted with birria, but enough in the know to know it’s become very popular in recent couple years. Birria can be made a variety of ways, but Enrique at RandomAF describes it as a slow braised, shredded beef, cooked in Guajillo Chili (also known as Estilo Guadalajara). Enrique’s food truck has become very popular in the social media foodie world, so I was very excited to take on this special assignment. I was even more excited that I could catch him at my favorite Mesa taproom, Chupacabra. As Enrique began setting up for the night you could begin to see the patrons of Chupacabra and members of the nearby neighborhood huddling around the truck eagerly awaiting the opening. Once I got to the window, I ordered 2 tacos, and the birria grilled cheese. What I didn’t know at the time was that Enrique had a secret menu item he was preparing for me as well; a birria mexican pizza! All of the food was incredible. Rich, gooey, cheese that stretched for days paired with the spicy, savory, birria. It made for quite the experience and each item provided something different for those a fan of texture. The grilled cheese had crunchy, perfectly charred bread. The tacos and Mexican pizza had warm, fluffy flour tortillas. My visit was truly an incredible experience and one I won’t soon forget. My recommendation is come hungry!

Food Trucks in Phoenix

Randizzle’s

“While others make it HOT, we make it SIZZLE!!” That is the slogan of the widely recognized burger truck Randizzle’s. The truck is locally owned and operated by former Arizona Rattler legend, Randy Gatewood. My first impression of the truck came from viewing their Instagram page, which set a high bar of expectations, to say the least. You can catch Randizzle’s burger truck at events all across the valley and on this day I met him at the Queen Creek festival. Randy was kind enough to give me a heads up to get there a little early, as the lines can tend to get a little long. As soon as I met Randy, I was immediately drawn into his infectiously friendly personality. He is filled with passion beyond belief and loves what he does. You can see it in the way he takes care of his truck and his guests. I ordered a peanut butter jelly, bacon, and cheese double burger, topped with an onion ring on a pretzel bun. It floored me with how delicious this burger was. Every flavor element of the burger itself came out with this incredible blend. It was a delicious showing of two American flavor profiles crashing together. I ate the whole thing and regretted none of it! Randizzle’s has an enormous following and now it’s clear why. If you have never been you need to, and if you have been before, I have great news: rumor has it, by the end of summer Randy will be opening his first brick and mortar location!

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Goat & ram

Goat and Ram is a must try pizza and was my highest rated food truck pizza in the valley for 2023. The crust, which everyone raves about, has a fantastic crunch, lightly charred, with an incredibly airy and fluffy inside. Goat and Ram is constantly changing their food truck menu week in and week out, with some classics and also some very fun and creative pizzas. My favorite topping by far is the candied jalapenos! Goat and Ram pizza truck has a weekly stop at Chupacabra Taproom in Mesa, which is an absolutely electric blend of pizza, local craft beer, and vibes. The two forces are combining and are in the beginning stages of a business partnership that will become Arizona’s newest brewery. That brewery will feature the Goat and Ram pizza we all love at a permanent brick and mortar home. The location is set to take over the old Desert Eagle Brewing Company in downtown Mesa.

l’impasto

(pictured below & on the right)

L’Impasto translated from Italian means “the dough,” which is what Chef Matthew Asaro, owner and operator of L’Impasto food truck, specializes in. His pasta and wood-fired pizzas are made entirely from scratch. Matt has made a career out of cooking, but when I first met him, he was just getting his feet wet with his first food truck. What I enjoy most about all of my experiences with Matt is that for starters, he knows his stuff and makes an incredible pie, but also he is super friendly, professional, and always makes time to have some enthusiastic conversation with anyone around. The L’Impasto food truck can be found all over the valley, not sticking to just one region. However, on my most recent visit, I caught him at Hair of the Dog taproom in Gilbert. What they had in store on the menu that day, I was not ready for. Pizza number one was named Brussel Crow; a blend of garlic, herbs, olive oil, basil, bacon, Brussel sprouts, pesto, fresh mozzarella, ricotta, lemon preserves, and turmeric aioli. This pizza was an absolute game changer. For one, I typically stay on track with more traditional pizzas, but this changed my entire thinking. It was absolutely electric and I recommend trying it. The second pizza was right up my alley. Hilariously named “The Horny Goat” it combines tomato sauce, garlic, mushrooms, basil, fresh mozzarella, a lot of goat cheese, salami, sweet and spicy chili, and honey. This one was a knockout. Matt makes pizza and all of his food with passion and the pursuit of a perfect meal. He enjoys making people smile and his gift to this world is how he does that, through pizza and conversation. If I were you, I’d be on the lookout for this truck, or should I say trailer, as L’Impasto is looking to unleash a brand new, custom-built monster of a food truck trailer in the very near future!

QUE CHEVERE

L’Impasto translated from Italian means “the dough,” which is what Chef Matthew Asaro, owner and operator This food truck and restaurant is a stand-out, not only because of the quality and flavor of the food, but also because they are one of the few local places to serve Venezuelan cuisine. Founded by Maria and Orvid Cutler, Que Chevere whips up the classic Venezuelan food that Maria grew up with before moving to the United States. Arepas and other savory treats span the menu for both their food truck and the brick-and-mortar location in Downtown Mesa. The arepas are packed full of chicken, beef, or veggies, and are served with wonderfully crunchy plantain chips. The Caribbean focused food is a wonderful way for Maria to share her native culture with residents and visitors of Arizona. If you make it into their restaurant in Mesa, you must try the Patacon, a generous portion of beef and chicken sandwiched between two smashed and fried plantains.

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Meet David Muhlstein: HULA’s

Captain’s Cabin

Chances are that if you have been to HULA’s Modern Tiki in Uptown on 7th Street, you may have missed their best kept secret. Hidden behind an unmarked door to the left of HULA’s main entrance, lies the 20-seat intimate tiki experience known as HULA’s Captain’s Cabin run by Valley mixologist David Muhlstein. Serving a selection of classic and modern tiki cocktails in a space that was designed to resemble a 1940’s Tahitian sailing vessel, Muhlstein sat down with me to discuss all things tiki and why the ingredients to a Mai Tai are so hotly contested.

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Q: Many of us (including yours truly) are transplants from other states or even countries…where did you grow up and what path brought you to HULA’s?

A: I’m originally from Los Angeles, having moved here in the mid 90’s. I bounced back and forth between here and LA but found I can’t stay away from the desert…there’s something about it that’s pretty magical. I’ve been working in the [hospitality] industry for about 20 years now, serving and bartending, and landed at this HULA’s location at Uptown right after it opened in 2018. After working at HULA’s for about 5 months, the opportunity presented itself to run Captain’s Cabin and I just ran with it. But it is crazy…I am a one-man show here. I don’t have any barbacks or hosts; I’m bussing the tables, greeting the guests, and making the drinks. Needless to say, it’s been a wild four years.

Q: I have always been a fan of tiki bars and drinks myself, and love the retro 1950’s vibe of HULA’s, and especially of Captain’s Cabin. Were you drawn to working at HULA’s for the tiki aspect of the business?

A: There’s a bar in LA called the Tiki-Ti that’s been there since ‘61. Growing up we would pop into these fun, kitschy Polynesian-themed restaurants and I remember sitting in [the Tiki-Ti] one night and it just clicked: the drinks, the ambiance, and the camaraderie of fellow tiki-philes. So I started seeking out tiki bars, and going to tiki events, and started the very expensive hobby of collecting tiki mugs.

Q: So you’ve been able to blend your passion with work (pun intended btw).

A: Yes. I love making cocktails, especially working with rums. I have some great regulars and customers and it’s been nice to see the recognition on Google and Yelp. Sometimes I go to tiki events and people recognize me…which grounds me and reminds me of why I do this. It’s just very nice to see and hear others appreciate it as much as I do.

Q: Yes, speaking of Yelp, a huge congratulations to you and HULA’s Captain’s Cabin for being named one of Yelp’s 50 Top Speakeasies in the US and Canada! You are part of HULA’s, but different…can you elaborate?

A: Of course. Our sister restaurant, HULA’s in Monterey, California, has a bar like this right next door and they are open on peak days to accommodate those waiting for tables or those who just want to come in and enjoy a cocktail, so I feel like that might have been the thought process when this was created. At Captain’s Cabin, I have my own [separate] cocktail menu of Signature Drinks and Tiki Classics, plus a small Snack Menu (think fries, sliders, ceviche, potstickers) from the HULA’s kitchen. My hours are Thursday through Saturday, six to midnight. I don’t take reservations except when I do private rentals which it seems I do every month; I have a bunch of birthday parties, celebrations, and retirements. It is very affordable to rent out the whole area.

Q: What a great idea for a party! So, let’s get down to brass tacks and talk tiki. Can you give us a brief history lesson on the evolution of tiki drinks?

A: Yeah, there’s this misconception that tiki drinks came from Hawaii or the tropics, but they actually came from California. It basically goes back to the ‘30’s and ‘40’s with the two ‘tiki godfathers’ who started Don the Beachcomber in LA (Ernest Gantt) and Trader Vic’s in the Bay Area (Vic Bergeron). A lot of people think that tiki drinks are just sugar bombs, but there’s a lot of rum-forward tiki drinks. And you know, those two guys were ahead of their time; they were blending different rums to get this different base profile and then created cocktails around it…and no one had really ever been doing that.

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Q: Yes, I understand they are credited with inventing a lot of what we think of as tiki drinks today, like the Mai Tai, the Zombie, and the Fog Cutter. And speaking of Mai Tai’s, I have to ask, in honor of my father, what do you feel are the ingredients of a Mai Tai?

A: You know that is a tough question because it’s wild that [the recipe for] that cocktail, of all tiki cocktails, is so coveted, so protected. If you change one ingredient or add one thing, sometimes they’ll say it’s not a Mai Tai. And there’s a whole argument of who created the Mai Tai: Trader Vic or Don the Beachcomber. It has gone back and forth, but I think Trader Vic gets the credit… it showed up on his menu first. Essentially, I’m a big fan of less is more, so I like to let the spirits shine. I feel like, honestly, you’ve got to pick a really good Jamaican rum and a really good agricole (a style of rum from sugar cane juice and not molasses), just like Trader Vic did when he created the Mai Tai in 1944. Plus some orgeat (almond syrup), an orange Curaçao, and Creole Shrubs, which is just another orange liqueur. Clement makes one with a little more depth and boozy finish. I think it rounds out the cocktail. And I don’t personally use juice other than lime juice. I just try to keep it as classic as possible.

Q: And what if someone walks in here and doesn’t know about or care for a tiki drink?

A: I like to ask them if they have favorite spirits that they gravitate towards? Say they like bourbon, or gin, there are some great bourbon and gin tiki drinks out there. Then I’ll ask them, “When you go to a cocktail bar, what do you order? What is your flavor profile?” If they say an Old Fashioned, then I get a profile of what they tend to order and I’ll make maybe a rum old fashioned or there’s a riff on a Sidecar called an Outrigger that I think Trader Vic invented. You want to get a basis of their palette, what they gravitate towards. In Arizona, we get a lot of margarita fans so I make them a daiquiri, which is just rum, sugar, and lime. That’s usually a good introductory cocktail. And sometimes people will just come in and just say, “Surprise me.”

Q: And do you offer beer, wine and low-ABV cocktails?

A: Yes, I don’t want anyone to feel excluded; I try to have something for everyone, because there will always be someone who comes in who asks for a draft beer, or who doesn’t care to drink. And even though I don’t necessarily have a section on my menu for mocktails, I can easily accommodate low-ABV and mocktails…very easy. Especially with tiki, they may want something fun and tropical tasting but no alcohol. I have tons of juices and syrups and mini umbrellas…you can still have a good time and not feel left out.

HULA’s Captain’s Cabin, 5114 N 7th St #2, Phoenix, AZ 85012

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Essence Kitchen

+ Bar

Chasing down a story in Prescott, Arizona last fall, I met a couple who raved about Essence Kitchen + Bar in nearby Chino Valley. “You must go check it out,” they urged me, explaining that not only is the food outstanding, but what the owners/operators are doing in regards to the community sets them apart. So on a chilly morning after one of our many winter storms, I wound my way up the “mountain” to the small community of 10,000 in Chino Valley to meet Julia Ammons and Jason Krupp, the dynamic team behind Essence Kitchen + Bar.

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Julia Ammons, co-owner of Essence, has the Arizona connection, having been born and raised in Prescott. Ammons spent many years in California working in the restaurant industry, when she met her husband, Jason Krupp, while they were both at King’s Fish House in Laguna Beach. They moved to Chino Valley in 2019 to be with their children and grandson, and opened Essence Kitchen + Bar on June 25, 2020.

Ammons and Krupp found that, in the midst of a nation-wide labor shortage, most of their staff were very young–under 18 in fact–and few had substantial experience in hospitality. Finding inspiration from their mission statement, which, in Ammons’ words, is to “inspire creativity,

nurture the craft industry, and share it with the community,” they were committed to train and educate a budding crop of servers and chefs.

Turns out this came naturally for Ammons and Krupp. Both have a long history with and passion for education and training in the culinary/hospitality field, Ammons as a former culinary school teacher and Krupp as a food and beverage manager for Islands Restaurant. Plus, both under-

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stand the importance of teaching the necessary skills and hands-on training to build, or master, a career in the restaurant industry. Ammons explains, “This was our biggest driving force for the restaurant, especially here [in Chino Valley], because at the time of opening, there weren’t many seasoned applicants.”

Essence, defined as “the most significant element, quality, or aspect of a thing or person,” has a profound meaning for the couple. The phrase greets guests on a wall at the entrance to the restaurant and is a kind of daily mantra. Ammons explains, “We both chose this as a name [for a future restaurant] during a time when we were injured and healing; we weren’t working in the industry, and our kids were grown. It comes down to the fact that people are the essence of who you are. We thought it would be a great name for a restaurant and…our vision for the restaurant just kind of fell into place.”

Their vision encompasses giving back to and building upon their community; they have partnered with Phoenix’s Pappas Foundation, donating funds to promote reading and literacy; they raise funds for a local non-profit community center, the Wheelhouse in Prescott Valley; and they are passionate about the Wade Parker Foundation, donating money for every Hot Shot Burger sold in their restaurant to the foundation named for Wade Parker, a cousin from Ammons’ first marriage who was one of the 19 Hotshots who died in the 2013 Yarnell fire.

In addition, once every other month, Essence offers a complimentary lunch service for veterans prepared and served by a staff of culinary students and volunteers: high school students from the Chino Valley High School culinary arts program cook alongside Chef Krupp and prepare desserts, and volunteers serve, bus, and take the orders from the guests. Says Ammons, “It’s an opportunity for them to work and be of service…and to see if they want to serve in the military.” They encourage kids of all ages to volunteer—even their grandson, who at seven years old, helps. “We like our guests to know that…while we are providing a service for them, they are also providing opportunities for kids to get experience in the industry.”

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The food menu at Essence focuses on a menu of sustainable farm-to-table dishes, specializing in seafood. With their combined experience working in California, Ammons explains, “we like to cook the food we like to eat and that represents Chef Jason’s passion of working with seafood.” They source from Santa Monica Seafood, Newport Meats, and as much local produce as possible through Yavapai Community College, located just a few miles down the road.

While seasonal, dishes you may find on the menu include the Cajun Dusted Seared Ahi Tuna, Seared Scallops over Jewel Yams and Field Greens, the aforementioned Hot Shot Burger, Filet Mignon, Parmesan Herb Crusted Chicken Breast, and several seafood dishes, including a Blackened Catfish and Steelhead Trout.

Ammons takes pride in the wine and beverage program, supporting sustainability and women-owned businesses. For instance, Essence serves Trinity Oaks wine, a California winery who plants a tree for every bottle sold. Empty wine bottles are given to local wineries to be repurposed, and corks given to collectors who fashion elaborate cork boards. In several cocktails, Essence uses Reàl Infused Syrups, a company that, Ammons says, “works with farmers around the world to source only the finest varieties of single pressed fruit and blend these with 100% cane sugar.” She adds, “We like to highlight the women-owned wineries and wine makers to support and advance women in the beverage industry,” says Ammons, noting that, “although it is changing, women only represent about 17 percent of the industry as a whole.”

In focusing on not only the food but also the people behind the food, Ammons and Krupp are influencing a future generation of hospitality professionals. “It’s all about giving and giving to the team members we have and the community we live in. We want Essence to be a venue to collaborate with other organizations so we may facilitate ways to support and give to the community.”

Essence Kitchen + Bar, 1021 AZ-89 #104, Chino Valley, AZ 86323 55
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agustin kitchen

At the far west end of Downtown Tucson lies a gem of the Tucson culinary scene, Agustin Kitchen. It sits at the corner of some distinct, historic neighborhoods that lend to the diversity of the clientele and the menu. A slight crew shuffle, including the chef, injected new found vitality to complement the new vibrant dishes. Under Executive Chef David Solorzano’s keen eye, the restaurant has started on a trajectory that it may not have had before. General Manager Justin Skoda spoke about how much of an impact David has had on the back of house, which directly leads to success at the front of house, “David came on board after a long list of us searching. We brought in some folks, some were close to the right fit, but when David came on board, everyone in the kitchen got put in white chef coats, black aprons, the works. The organization on the line went from a smattering of half-formed ideas, to very focused and the food being plated with intent.”

The new menu items are varied and blend accessibility with elegance to create an approachable, elevated dining experience. One of their best-selling items is a pan seared half chicken on a bed of potato puree with a chicken aju that is cooked down with pancetta, all placed on top of a melted savoy cabbage that takes upwards of 2 hours to prepare.

Another unique offering at Agustin Kitchen is a braised carrot that is prepared similarly to the chicken in that it’s cooked down in a reduction of its own juices. The addition of a bevy of herbs, spices, and orange juice amplifies the flavor. They then served the vegetables on an herb dressing made with buttermilk inoculated in house, along with a selection of complimentary spices. The dish is topped with spiced pecans and pea shoot microgreens from Vista Microgreens, based out of Sierra Vista. The result is a well executed yet lofty take on peas and carrots.

Agustin Kitchen’s odd and highly functional fusions continue with their Beef Tataki. It’s made with seared, local, grassfed strip loin, citrus kosho aromatized with beef fat, and Arizona sourced olive oil. The tataki is brightened up with leak sprouts from Vista Microgreens

These preparations are just a baby step into the gastronomic adventure you can experience in the Mercado District off Congress. Agustin Kitchen is within walking distance of the incredible MSA Annex that is home to an outdoor cocktail bar called Westbound, as well as some other local shops. If that walk is a bit much with a full stomach, inside the Mercado are other local artisans as well as La Estrella Bakery if you have a hankering for some pan dulce to top everything off. Also for your culinary consideration, just across from Agustin Kitchen is another Tucson institution, Seis Kitchen.

All this may be at the far west end of the downtown scene, but it’s absolutely worth the slightly longer drive. It is also a very bike friendly area, so the west end can serve as a great start or end point for a ride around the downtown loop.

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piccolo virtu

We all have our “go-to’s” when it comes to restaurants, whether it is a go-to for Sunday brunch, to celebrate birthdays or anniversaries, or when guests are visiting. My go-to for each of these occasions is Virtù Honest Craft, Chef Gio Osso’s award-winning farm-to-table Italian eatery tucked along a quiet street in Old Town Scottsdale. And now there are three go-to options, with the opening in January of 2020 of Pizzeria Virtù, and most recently Piccolo Virtù, which has already garnered rave reviews from loyal Virtù fans and newcomers alike.

Gio Osso may have been born and raised in New Jersey, but he has Italy in his veins. His parents immigrated from Calabria, an area in the toe of Italy known for its spicy, hearty cuisine and abundance of seafood. During yearly visits to Calabria, he explained, everything revolved around food. “From an early age, I had a passion for food. And still, to this day, we can be eating breakfast and the next question is, ‘What do we want for dinner?’ It’s a lifestyle; it’s part of our culture.”

'

Osso chose a career in culinary arts early, working in restaurants at 13 and attending culinary school with the dream of starting his own business. Did his dream initially include Arizona? Well, that may have been serendipity, following friends out west who had similar dreams. In fact, the idea for Virtù, he explains, started with a trip to Italy, where he realized he wanted to open the kind of restaurant focusing on local, seasonal ingredients, where he could “change things all the time…where the guests could come back two or three times a week and experience something different with each visit.”

Virtù Honest Craft opened in 2013 to immediate success, being crowned the most awarded restaurant in Arizona during 2013 and 2014. “It was nice that my hard work and thought process was recognized because there were a lot of people…who would say that it’d never work. But, we made it work, and in a big way.”

The list of awards Virtù and Osso have won is long, but includes Esquire’s Best New Restaurants in America, a James Beard Best New Restaurant semi-finalist, and an Arizona Culinary Hall of Fame Chef of the Year. Howard Seftel, the acclaimed dining critic for the Arizona Republic for 15 years, awarded Virtù with Appetizer of the Year for his pulpo (octopus)–charred octopus with lemon chickpeas, arugula, fennel and Calabrian chile butter–which was, Osso explains, “what put us on the map.”

The opportunity to expand the Virtù brand came in January of 2020 when a former employer, upon retiring and closing his restaurant, offered Osso the opportunity to buy a space on the 6900 block of Main Street, only a few blocks from Virtù. But a mere six weeks after opening Pizzeria Virtù, the pandemic hit. Osso admits, “That was a hard pill to swallow. We had just opened, and then we were shut down. It was a tough, tough time. But, again, we made it work.”

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With Pizzeria Virtù, Osso elevates the perception of a pizza restaurant. He explains, “I want to show people that [eating at a pizzeria] could be different…better…special.” Pizzeria Virtù offers pizzas showcasing ingredients, in Osso’s words, that are “different and that highlight my background.”

For example, the Reggio pizza–with n’duja (spreadable pork sausage), tomato sauce, mozzarella, basil, spicy sopressata, and pecorino–represents “in a nutshell,” says Osso, “specifically where my family is from, and is filled with my spirit.” For another favorite, he took inspiration from a simple street-food sandwich to create the Erbazzone pizza, with mozzarella, smoked pancetta, garlic, spinach, ricotta, and lemon.

In addition to a choice of approximately 8 pizzas, Pizzeria Virtù offers five pastas—like the spaghetti alla chitarra with garlic, oil, and chiles mudicca—plus a handful of Piccoli Piatti (or small plates), including classics like bruschetta, polpette, and carpaccio. Osso explains that the menu is somewhat limited due to the size of the kitchen, but he has plans to expand and modify it to increase menu offerings.

The idea for Piccolo Virtù, interestingly, was born out of COVID. In order to navigate the changing business climate Osso had transitioned the Virtù dinner menu from an à la cart to a three-course prix fixe menu. “We didn’t change anything when it came to the food..we still had a similar menu; we just changed the way you dine.” While not limited to three dishes, Osso explains diners can have up to five or six courses if they like.

However, not everyone enjoyed the three courses. Osso took this feedback as an opportunity to expand his brand and to appeal to a wider range of customers, and in December of 2022, in the former Nonna Urban Eatery space on Main Street, he opened Piccolo Virtù.

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As the name would suggest, Piccolo Virtù brings much of what Gio Osso is known for and what he calls his “Italian spirit.” The appetizer section has several small plates including 8 to 10 selections of crudo, salads, appetizers, pastas, and the main courses feature a mix of individual and large-format entrees, all à la carte. Pro tip: large groups might be interested in ordering the Spanish suckling pig, which must be done 48 hours in advance. Explains Osso, “We can recapture the guests that don’t like the three courses by doing the similar style of Virtù food at a different location.”

The crudo is a specialty of Piccolo Virtù. Says Osso, “One [crudo] dish is an ode to Nobuo Fukuda (James Beard award winning chef of Sea Saw and Teeter House fame) because he’s one of most amazing chefs I have ever been around. He had a dish with white fish I loved so much that when he shut down…I did my own version. I take thinly sliced branzino, pouring hot sesame oil on top so it almost sears it, and top with crispy shallots.”

Speaking of the cocktail and wine program, Osso tells me, “The whole idea behind Virtù is that of a complete experience, from the minute you walk in the door to the minute you leave…you have to have a very strong service team, plus a very strong wine program, and a diverse cocktail program.”

At Virtù and Piccolo, you will find more boutique wines from across the globe, and at the pizzeria there is an all-Italian list. In choosing the wine, Osso says, “I like to represent small producers.” For the cocktails, Osso aims for “simple elegance, wellbalanced with ingredients that speak for themselves, [many] with Amaro.” In fact, Virtù boasts the biggest Amaro selection in Arizona, with 140-150 bottles. “Overall, I want a flavor explosion when you’re drinking or when you’re eating food, but I want it to be that simple.”

Simple, elegant, and wellbalanced… three words that perfectly sum up these three distinct and special concepts in the heart of Old Town Scottsdale.

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