A Taste of AZ Magazine Summer 2021

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CIDER CORPS Cider Corps has quickly become one of Arizona's top craft beverage producers.

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NOBLE BREAD Noble Bread is producing exceptional breads for consumers and restaurants across the valley.

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WHERE TO DRINK AND DINE IN PRESCOTT Though small and quaint, Arizona's former capital is packed with history, great food, and tasty drinks.

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LITTLE RITUALS COCKTAIL WITH MEZCAL NARAN

Join us in Downtown Phoenix for a craft cocktail at one of Arizona's most popular bars.

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THE WORKFORCE CRISIS The food and beverage industry is in the midst of an extreme staffing crisis.


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TUCSON'S TOP TAPROOMS The Tucson metro area has become one of the state's most impressive craft beer destinations.

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OSTERIA MIA This spectacular neighborhood Italian spot serves fantastic classics with a Southwest twist.

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PERRY LAND & CATTLE Learn about the family producing local and sustainable beef for people in the Central Valley

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TACOS CALAFIA From handmade tortillas to Cabeza Tacos, this is authentic Tijuana-style food.

CHECK US OUT ONLINE We've got videos, podcasts, and more info on AZ's best F&B at www.ATasteofAZ.com




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Perry Land & Cattle Ribeye at Tarbell's (page 54) ???

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PUBLISHER’ S NOTE THE AZ F&B COMMUNITY For those who work in Arizona's food and beverage industry, it is no secret that the sense of community runs deep. From chefs, to barternders, to distillers and brewers there are so many exciting connections between AZ's local businesses. It has become more common that ever to see collaboration beers, charity dinners, and other efforts that benefit people far beyond the F&B community. We're honored to cover many of the well respected community members in this magazine and all of our other publications.

A TASTE OF AZ TEAM Publishers

Luke Irvin Eric Walters

Writers

Christina Barrueta Alison Bailin Batz Steven Larson Marci Symington Isaac Stockton

Photographers Luke Irvin Marci Symington Isaac Stockton

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CI DER CORPS W RI T T EN BY ALISON BAILIN BAT Z PHOTOS COURT ESY OF CIDER CORPS This is the true story of how a punk rock loving graphic artist and his military hero brother home-brewed cider so good it exploded into one of Arizona’s fastest-growing craft beverage businesses.

This is the story of the Duren brothers.


After graduating high school in 1999, elder brother Josh (pictured on left of pg 10) was eager to leave the family’s small hometown of McPherson, Kansas (population 13,000) and hit the slopes in Colorado. He would spend his late teens exploring the Centennial State, as well as Chicago, before landing in Arizona in 2001 to study animation. “Though I graduated with an animation degree, I tended more toward graphic design, going so far as to borrow my roommate’s textbooks on the topic,” says Josh, who made his way in web and graphic design for the better part of a decade after graduating. Jason (seen above), younger by three and a half years, took a different route. He enlisted in the Marine Corps Reserve and served for several years in heavy machinery at Luke Air Force Base, before being deployed to Afghanistan in 2012 to help dismantle a Taliban prison. While overseas, Jason sustained two traumatic brain injuries as a result of improvised explosive devices (IEDs). He had to spend several months in the marine medical ward before making his way back to Arizona in 2013. “Oddly enough, we were both introduced to cider – me in British Columbia on vacation and him in Ireland en route back to the States – around the same time,” says Josh, who was intrigued by the extra-bubbly take on cider he sampled.

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Once home, Jason began the medical retirement process, working through speech therapy and cognitive processing programs to help re-train his brain. Through this, he met famed Arizona-based neurologist Dr. Javier Cardenas, who advised him to take up a hobby that required developing new skills, researching, and attention to detail as a means to further rehab his brain. “We talked about brewing beer together as this hobby, but realized we were already fans of so many friends’ homebrews and the craft beers in Arizona that we wanted to do something unique to us. Enter cider,” says Josh, who admits it took some time to make something worth sipping, and then even longer to add in enhancements such as mangos, habaneros and prickly pear. By 2015, a friend who’d become a fan of their garage ciders connected them with Fox Restaurant Concepts. Beverage director Mat Snapp was impressed after a tasting, especially with the pumpkin offering, and

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said as soon as they transitioned the hobby into a viable, legal business that Fox would be their first formal customers. “It took about two years start to finish – from getting an LLC and investors to finding a space and getting the operation up and running – but by 2017 we opened Cider Corps in Mesa,” says Josh, noting that during the same time Jason earned a sustainable horticulture degree at ASU to help further the operations side of the venture. “And Fox was true to its word.” Fast-forward to today and, in addition to their Mesa taproom, the brothers are building out a 14,000 square-foot production facility in Gilbert to keep up with demand, which includes more than 100 bar and restaurant customers as well as retailers including Whole Foods, AJ’s Fine Foods and Total Wine and More. They’ve also gained fans by daring to dream up ciders that walk on the wild side in terms of flavor, notably Mango Foxtrot with infusions of both mango and rose hip; POG that includes passionfruit, orange and guava; Blackberry Grenade that pairs blackberry, morita chile, and habanero; and Blueberry Angels, which combines blueberry with cassia bark. Many flavors are named to honor the military, and beyond even that, the Mesa taproom is adorned with patriotic colors and murals, and serves as a community gathering point for veterans and fundraisers. “Maybe most importantly, Jason and I are closer than I ever dreamt we might be as adults, and he is a testament to the power of resilience despite seemingly insurmountable odds,” says Josh.

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DRINK IN AZ:

THE IG COMMUNITY FOR DESERT DRINKERS.

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noble bread Noble Bread Rises – Literally and Figuratively – to Prominence in Arizona Written By: Alison Bailin Batz

Photographed By: Luke Irvin

For many, sourdough starters were a staple of the COVID-19 era. But for Noble Bread and Noble Eatery founder Jason Raducha, they are a way of life. Raducha was born in Chicago but moved to Phoenix, which he considers home, at 10 years old. His aunt Mary followed Raducha’s immediate family to the Valley as well. “This was the early 1990s, and bread machines were all the rage,” says Raducha. “Aunt Mary bought me one as a gift, likely from one of those 2 a.m. infomercials so popular at the time.” And while most people made a few loaves in their bread machines and then left them to gather dust for a decade, Raducha was mesmerized by the alchemy of flour and water creating something not only edible, but delicious. “That bread machine, combined with my



love of cooking with my grandmother aka Nana, inspired me to take culinary electives all through high school,” says Raducha, who graduated from Paradise Valley High School in 2002. “I didn’t make the move to do it professionally, however, until much later.”

others would love my loaves as much as me.” To test the theory, while setting up the business that would become Noble Bread, Raducha launched a Kickstarter campaign, which raised more than $30,000 in 30 days. “That told me I had something here,” says Raducha, who got his country bread into farmer’s markets before year’s end, slowly growing his business piece by piece, crumb by crumb.

As adept with technology as he is butter’s best friend, Raducha earned a computer science degree and worked in IT for several years, and then for a food supply company, before coming to a crossroads in 2012. “That year, Simply Bread went out of business, and I found myself without any good-quality bread in town, except for the bread I made myself,” says Raducha. “So I decided to throw caution to the wind, grabbing my computer and walking out of my career on a hunch that

In the early years of Noble Bread, Raducha first baked in his garage. When neighbors complained, he moved the operations to his parents’ home. “Other than my folks, I point to two local chefs for really coming on board to support me early on in a big way: Justin Beckett and Cullen Campbell,” says Raducha. His success led him to rent a bakery in Phoenix before settling on his permanent location 20


on 26th Street and McDowell. In 2013 Raducha added Noble Eatery, first near the bakery and today in the Biltmore area.

grain and semolina. At Noble Eatery, they decorate the bread with a bevy of proteins and condiments each day, resulting in epic sandwiches and everchanging specials to delight his rabid throng of patrons.

Today, Noble Bread is on the menu or available for sale in over 100 locations across Arizona, including Chula Seafood, Fairmont Scottsdale Princess Resort, The Macintosh, OEB Breakfast Co., The Gladly, Citizen Public House, Twisted Grove, Miracle Mile Deli, and – of course – at both Beckett’s Table and Southern Rail, each co-owned by Beckett. The country loaf remains Noble's most popular item, but there are well over a dozen types of bread offered by Raducha in every shape and size imaginable – from buttermilk buns and hoagie rolls to ciabatta and baguettes – as well as a wide variety of flavors, including marble rye, cranberry walnut, oat, nine

When asked how he made a garage bakery into one of Arizona’s most respected culinary empires, Raducha credits his family (especially Aunt Mary, Nana and his parents), hard work – he puts in well over 70 hours a week, often until 4 a.m. – and obsession with quality. “We only use organic GMOfree flours, water and sea salt as well as an organic levain starter,” says Raducha. “On average, one loaf takes 36 hours, but we like to think the result is worth it.” According to fans now all over the globe, it certainly is. 21


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WHERE TO DRINK & DINE

IN PRESCOTT Written by Christina Barrueta Photographed by Luke Irvin Prescott’s motto is “Everybody’s Hometown” and it’s an apt description that captures its small-town charm. Named One of the Happiest and Healthiest Cities in America by Time Magazine, it boasts an old-fashioned town square lined with stately elm trees, Victorian homes with wrap-around porches, and a walkable downtown with delightful shops, restaurants and historic landmarks. For a historic overview, spend an afternoon on the self-guided Heritage Trail exploring Whiskey Row (named for the abundance of saloons in the 1800s), The Palace Restaurant and Saloon (the oldest operating bar in the state), the Hassayampa Inn (a beautifully restored 1927 hotel), and museums such as the Western Heritage Center and Museum of Indigenous People. Crowned Best Destination for Nature Lovers by Expedia in 2018, Prescott is also a city of natural beauty. Nearby Prescott National Forest encompasses 1.25 million acres, and within Prescott and its environs you’ll find parks, lakes and trails ideal for hiking, kayaking, mountain climbing, horseback riding and more. This former frontier town is also emerging as a thriving culinary community enticing travelers with both modern eateries and historic watering holes. Here are some must-visit destinations for your next excursion to Prescott.


Where to Dine

An airy, inviting space on the top floor of the historic Burmister Building, The County Seat elevates its fastcasual concept with a made-from-scratch menu (pictured above). Choose from indulgent baked goods, pressed juices, house cocktails, colorful salads, sandwiches and vegetarian plates, and a menu offering weekday Happy Hours, all-day breakfast, and weekend brunch. Try pairing your avocado toast with a Bloody Mary complete with mini corn muffin, pepperoncini, cheese and bacon garnish. For authentic Neapolitan pizzas cooked in 90 seconds in an imported Italian oven, visit Limoncello Pizzeria Napoletana. Head to the second floor of Historic Firehouse for pizzas, antipasti and homemade pastas like lasagna layered with bechamel and ragu or squid ink tagliolini with shrimp and cherry tomatoes. As a grazie, owner Matteo Schiavone likes to treat guests to a complimentary shot of homemade cream limoncello to finish your meal. Rosa’s Pizzeria is another beloved Italian favorite, serving Southern-Italian dishes and New York-style pizza in a comfortable family-friendly atmosphere. Take a seat in the rustic dining room decorated with exposed brick and red-and-white-checkered tablecloths to dine on an expansive menu of appetizers, salads, pastas and both traditional and pan-baked pizzas. A local favorite is Rosa’s Chicken Martini, a crispy parmesan-breaded chicken cutlet draped in a white cream sauce with peas and asparagus. For a modern taqueria with an extensive agave spirit collection, make a beeline to La Planchada. Graze on plates like green chile cornbread muffins slathered with agave-cilantro butter, shrimp and chorizostuffed poblano peppers, classic tacos (green chile chicken, carne asada) and especial tacos (pork belly with avocado crema, fried chicken with house hot sauce and tomatillo ranch). Don’t forget the excellent cocktails, including seasonal margarita specials. PG 25


Prescott is also home to acclaimed farm-to-table restaurants supporting the local community of farmers and ranchers. At Farm Provisions, Chef Ryan Peters helms the kitchen while his wife Brittany runs the front of the house. “Simple food elevated” means choices ranging from burrata and slow roasted tomato salad with wild arugula (seen on the right), to a spectular filet served with roasted garlic whipped potatoes and asparagus (seen above); from juicy burgers made with Arizona grass-fed beef layered with green chiles and avocado, to halibut with AZ citrus champagne beurre blanc. Local ingredients shine in cocktails too – try A Bag Full of Smashed Apples with small batch bourbon, honeycrisp apple, lemon, and more (seen on the right). Chef John Panza and Cassandra Hankinson of Biga by Senses also celebrate sustainability and Arizonagrown ingredients. Step inside the small and cozy space and you’ll spy a chalkboard proudly listing local sources like Whipstone Farm, L. Bell Ranch, and Greg’s Greens. Dig into farm-fresh salads, sandwiches on bread baked in-house, and entrees such as scallops and shrimp with aged parmesan grits and shellfish brandy cream sauce, or juicy pork tenderloin with sherry peach reduction. PG 26



Superstition Meadery’s history began when Jeff Herbert received a home brew kit from his wife Jennifer as a Father’s Day gift. Now they’ve been recognized the world over for their meads (fermented honey wines) with a slew of prestigious international awards. Stop by their tasting room in the cellar of the Burmister Building for an eye-opening exploration of traditional mead, ciders, cyser (mead and cider), melomel (mead with fruit) or pyment (mead with grape juice). Some standouts include Lagrimas del Oro, a mead aged in bourbon barrels, Aphrodisia, a pyment made with syrah grapes and mesquite honey, and Blueberry Spaceship Box Cider, which has been rated #1 cider in the world on Ratebeer. There’s no shortage of great craft brew pubs in this historic town. Continue wandering around downtown and quench your thirst at local favorites including LazyG Brewhouse and Prescott Brewing Company. And you don’t want to miss a trip to Founding Fathers, a 14,000 square foot warehouse in Prescott’s downtown Entertainment District, home to City Tavern, Arizona's largest self-serve beer tap room, a specialty coffee shop, haberdashery, barber shop and Seven Six, a members-only speakeasy.

Where to Drink

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With its exposed brick walls and rafters, Back Alley Wine Bar (pictured above) is a welcoming spot to settle in for some wine research. Located in Whiskey Row Alley, Sheri Shaw’s tasting room serves wine flights, beer, mead and ciders, with a focus on Arizona wines and wine education. Locals gather for live music and daily specials such as $10 Off Tuesdays, Wine Flight Wednesdays and Thursday Pizza nights. Across the way in Old Firehouse Plaza is the Del Rio Springs Vineyard tasting room. Rick and Maricor Skladzien’s 6-acre vineyard in neaby Paulden grow varietals like Chardonnay, Riesling, Malbec, and one of Arizona’s best Pinot Noirs. Choose between an all-red or mixed flight, and wine educator Mark (he also conducts tasting room wine classes) will share the interesting stories behind each bottle. Flying Leap’s Estate Vineyards and Winery are located in southern Arizona, and their Prescott tasting room is one of five scattered throughout Arizona’s wine regions. Take a seat and let friendly and knowledgeable Kinsey guide you through the French, Spanish and Italian varietals of the winery’s award-winning portfolio. Tasting flights offer white, red and dessert wines and include a take-home souvenir glass. For craft cocktail lovers, no visit to Prescott is complete without a visit to The Point Bar and Lounge. Enter through a back door marked with a stag head and enjoy the speakeasy-style ambiance as you sip on some of the city’s finest libations. Here you’ll find house-made bitters and hand-cut ice, and a thoughtful list of classics such as the Vieux Carré and Aviation and house signatures like the Western Negroni with Prescott’s Thumb Butte Distillery gin. PG 29


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Discover Flagstaff EcoTourism Award Winner

WE’RE ON THE ROAD TO SUSTAINABILITY • Mother Road Brewing Company has partnered with the Arizona Game & Fish Department to conserve 800+ species by donating $1 for every case of Conserve & Protect Golden Ale sold

TIPS ON HOW TO Download the TOPVIEW WILDLIFE Conserve & Protect Wildlife Flagstaff Watching Map, which includes our favorite outdoor trails and species.

FOLLOW OUTDOOR ETHICS The goal should be to observe norm wildlife behaviors and activity (Allow wildlife to be WILD) • Do not harass wildlife • Do not get too close • Do not block them from food, water, or their young • Do not chase the animal(s) • Do not FEED wildlife

Michael Marquess, Founder and CEO of Mother Road Brewing Co. wildlife viewing in his 1966 Ford Bronco

WILDLIFE WATCHING IN ARIZONA Did you know wildlife viewing contributes on average more than $1.4 billion annually to Arizona and its communities? Wildlife viewing also helps conservation efforts by heightening public awareness of the value of wildlife and habitat as irreplaceable assets. Thank you for your support of wildlife viewing and its unforgettable impact on both Arizona and its citizens. To access more wildlife viewing activities, including photography tours, events, online lectures and live wildlife cams, scan the QR code in this map!

• First brewery in Arizona to implement carbon recapture technology, set to recapture 100,000 pounds of CO2 in 2021 • Proud member of Arizona Forward

ABOUT THE ARIZONA GAME & FISH DEPARTMENT The Arizona Game and Fish Department’s mission is to conserve and protect Arizona’s 800-plus species of wildlife. AZGFD receives zero general fund tax dollars. Funding is primarily provided by sales of hunting and fishing licenses, tags or stamps, and via a federal excise tax on firearms and ammunition. You can help support wildlife: azwildlifehero.com/join

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Founded in 2011, Mother Road Brewing Company is Arizona’s third-largest independent craft brewer. Their mission is to brew distinguished beers and build community one pint at a time. Mother Road builds community by supporting local Arizona charities and aiding AZGFD to conserve and protect Arizona’s 800-plus species of wildlife. In 2020, Mother Road received Discover Flagstaff’s EcoTourism award for Outstanding Eco-friendly programming.

RESPECT THE LAND • Pack it in - pack it out • Leave no trace • Leave it better than you found it KNOW WHEN TO WATCH • AM or PM • Night time in AZ is very active • Summer in AZ offers great opportunities • Time of year • Season • Migration • Where to look

THINK LIKE WILDLIFE • Learning a little about what wildlife needs to survive gives clues to where you can find the Different species have differen habitat requirements for water food, shelter and adequate spa • Look to the edge - Most wildlife species spend their time along habitat edges. The border between two habitats is a prim viewing spot.

WATCHING WILDLIFE IS A QUIET ACTIVITY • Talk softly, move slowly • Use all your senses: Not just wha you SEE, but what you HEAR, and SMELL.

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Wildlife viewing can be a fun and affordable activity for the whole fam All you really need is your curiosity a willingness to go outside!

BE PREPARED! • Bring water, food, sunscreen and wear the appropriate clothing. • Let someone know where you a going, and when you plan on being back. • A whistle or signaling device for safety. • Head lamp in case you are caug after dark.


LITTLE RITUALS COCKTAIL RECIPE Written by Christina Barrueta

Photographed by Luke Irvin

Mezcal, tequila’s smokier cousin, gets its rustic ancestral character from the roasting of the piña (the heart of the agave). The Carreño family has been producing artisanal mezcal in Oaxaca since 1904, a legacy that Ivan Carreño, an Arizona resident, is now sharing north of the border. Ivan, along with his longtime friend Abel Arriaga, has been spearheading its distribution in the States and racking up awards along the way, including Best Mezcal at the 2020 San Francisco World Spirits Competition. Their latest launch is Mezcal NARAN with a flavor profile designed to shine in mixed drinks. Look for it on menus at acclaimed restaurants and bars, including James Beard award nominee Little Rituals in downtown Phoenix. “With a mezcal as delicious as NARAN, you want a cocktail with fully incorporated, balanced flavors,” notes beverage impresario and Little Rituals co-owner Aaron Defeo. To create the Moment of Zen, he gave careful thought to the complementary nuances of supporting ingredients.

PG 32


MOMENT OF ZEN

PG 33


MOMENT OF ZEN

“Mezcal has a really pleasing spice,” he explains. “It’s like cinnamon bark, so using cinnamon in mezcal cocktails plays really well.” To incorporate those warm back notes, he lightly sweetens his libation with a house simple syrup lightly infused with Herbes de Provence and toasted cinnamon. Mezcal’s herbaceous spice is further underscored with Galliano, an Italian liqueur comprised of a secret blend of more than 30 botanicals. “It has an herbal, yet sweet, flavor profile and a vanilla note that pairs really well with the mezcal and cinnamon.” To round out the cocktail, he adds a favorite sherry-based Spanish vermouth. “You taste cinnamon, thyme and even a bit of red fruit. It brings dryness, brightness, and a little bit of extra acidity,” says Defeo. “All the components fit the archetype that we use here at Little Rituals to create multi-layered, complex cocktails.” To try this wonderful cocktail be sure to make a reservation on Little Rituals website!

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THE RECIPE 1.5 oz Mezcal NARAN .75 oz fresh lemon juice .5 oz Liquore Galliano L’Autentico

.5 oz Gonzalez Byass La Copa Vermouth Extra Seco .5 oz herbed cinnamon syrup (see note) Lemon peel and fresh thyme, for garnish

Filled a cocktail shaker with cubed ice. Add all ingredients except garnish. Shake vigorously and strain into a tall glass filled with pebble ice. Twist the lemon peel over the drink to express the oils. Garnish with peel and a sprig of fresh thyme. Note: Defeo uses a 2:1 ratio of cane sugar and water for Little Ritual’s herbed cinnamon syrup. When making it at home, look for high-quality, fragrant cinnamon sticks and dried herbes de Provence with lavender.

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THE FOOD AND BEVERAGE WORKFORCE SHORTAGE HELP D E D E E N

Written by: Christina Barrueta Photographed by: Luke Irvin

“I've been a part of this organization for 20 years and it's like nothing I've ever witnessed,” says Steve Chucri, CEO and president of the Arizona Restaurant Association. “I'm just amazed.” He’s referencing the current situation arising from a robust industry rebound coupled with an unanticipated workforce shortage. “It has been challenging across the spectrum, no matter how successful you are as a restaurant or as a restauranteur.”

applicants within two days,” notes Hinojosa. “Now we might get 18 or 20 in a week, and 15 of those won't show up or respond to requests for interviews.” A constellation of factors contribute to the diminished labor pool, including the unemployment supplement, pandemic health concerns, industry wages and demands, and a hospitality worker exodus. “Within a three-day period, we displaced nearly 80% of our workforce,” notes Chucri. “Our daily payroll went from 14 million to two, so you have people wanting to go to an industry where they won't be so quickly displaced.” Mark Tarbell of Tarbell’s and Tarbell’s Tavern and Wine Store agrees. “I‘ve seen the flight of available staff to industries and opportunities like delivery services, Amazon, tech, grocery stores and the construction trade, or going back to school,” he notes. Some people have moved out of state or taken remote at-home positions, while others have used the unemployment supplement to take a break from the job search or explore other fields. More time at home have given many a new perspective. “People want to better balance the time they're spending at work and the time they’re spending at home,” notes Adolfo Torres of Tacos Calafia. “It has been a universal re-set for some

Arizona restaurants have experienced an unexpected fast-track return of customers as pandemic restrictions loosen. “I thought it would be a little more gradual,” says Richard Hinojosa, chef-owner of CRUjiente Tacos, “but as soon as we opened back up to full capacity, we were on a wait every night and back to February 2020 numbers.” But on the flip side, staffing difficulties for all aspects of day-to-day operations are impeding businesses from keeping up commensurate with this pace. Economic reports continue to publish statistics reflecting a lackluster job market, which hinders a full-fledged recovery. “Pre-COVID, no exaggeration, we would place ads for bartenders or servers and get 200 to 400

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people, deciding ‘this is not so bad,’ ‘we can make this work,’” agrees Tarbell.

up tremendously.” In the best-case scenario, customers will support and recognize these cost effects as the industry undergoes a post-pandemic reshaping. “One thing that I'm hopeful for is that when everybody has to adjust and accommodate the increase in costs of goods and labor, it becomes more acceptable and understandable,” says Hinojosa.

As a result, businesses that can’t find enough workers are asking more of their current staff. In an effort to ease this burden, some restaurants have reduced their hours. “We just started closing Mondays at some of our locations to give our staff a break,” says Torres. “Every week, it's getting harder and harder.” Others have had to limit their menus. “It’s just me and my sous chef,” says Hinojosa, “so we've had to modify the menu because I don't have enough cooks to run the line. Though it’s nice to see that people are ready to rejoin the world of dining out. I'd much rather deal with figuring out how to service our customers than wonder why people aren't people coming in.” To meet those needs, businesses are finding creative ways to attract and retain workers. Skyler Reeves of Vivili Hospitality Group in Prescott has taken the innovative step of recruiting college students to staff his restaurants by partnering with Yavapai College. Those who commit to a 32-hour week will receive free college tuition after 90 days. Many restaurants are offering signing and referral bonuses or hourly wage increases. “We're all in the same lake chasing the same six fish, so whoever has the best bait, has the best chance,” says Hinojosa, who has raised his pay scale to be more competitive in this job-seeker’s market. “Even though we can't necessarily afford it, the alternative is that we don't have any staff.” In an industry notorious for its slim profit margins, however, there's a limit to how much businesses can raise wages, especially coupled with rising food costs due to supply-chain bottlenecks. “The price on goods is going sky high,” says Hinojosa. “We’ll raise the price on a menu item by a dollar or two, and then somebody will say, ‘why is it so expensive?’ Chicken is insanely expensive. Meats are expensive, squash and cabbage is expensive. Everything has gone

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“It’s always a good thing when our registers are ringing,“ says Chucri, “but at the same time, we've got to balance that with tremendous customer service. My expectation is that by Q3 of this year, we'll see a normalcy return to our labor force.” Tarbell expresses similar optimism. “I feel it is temporary. We’ve just come out of a full shut-down and it is impossible to flick a switch and say ta-da, it’s all back to normal now. It’s like pulling a rubber band – it stretches and then snaps back. It will be interesting to see where we are a year from now. My recommendation for those looking for work is to find a place you like and where you can grow. Good jobs may be far more competitive and difficult to find in the future.” “As an industry, we always have been and will always be in the health and safety business,” continues Tarbell. “This past year has made us sharper and added new areas to watch. One of the good things that has come from this past year is the increased concern for wellbeing in the workplace. “ “It’s a difficult industry to work in,” acknowledges Hinojosa. “It's hard work and long hours, but there's a lot of opportunity. I’ve lived and worked in great places, learned how to make delicious food and helped enrich people's lives. Food makes people happy; it evokes memories and creates new ones. It’s payment that’s not money, and very rewarding.”


"One of the good things that has come from this past year is the increased concern for wellbeing in the workplace."

"Find a place you like and where you can grow. Good jobs may be far more competitive and difficult to find in the future."



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TUCSON'S TOP TAPROOMS Written By: Isaac Stockton Photographed By: Isaac Stockton The Downtown Tucson area is loaded with amazing craft beweries and taprooms. The historic buildings are a wonderful setting to enjoy a fresh pint of local beer. Beyond the busy city center, a spattering of wonderful beer and cider houses serve the locals of the area. With a phenomenal diversity of places to visit, Tucson has become one of AZ's best beer cities. Here are some of the top taprooms to visit around the Old Pueblo.


Barrio

Barrio Brewing is a Tucson beer institution that has made its name known throughout the state and who has been recornized with a silver medal at GABF. Barrio makes a wide assortment of brews like the light, triedand-true Barrio Blonde which is a perfect introduction to craft beer for newcomers and is a trusted favorite served at many local restaurants. On the darker and heavier end of the beer spectrum, Nolan's Porter is a rich and complex beer that was made to celebrate the birth of the Brewmaster's son. The pub component is a large space bedecked with TV's with a variety of sports playing around a large and welcoming bar with friendly and skilled bartenders. They also offer a full menu that ranges from a tasty Spinach and Artichoke Dip to a hearty and filling Southwest Chicken Panini. Barrio is positioned just south of the main downtown Tucson strip and is located very close to Moto Sonora, which is also well worth a visit.

Borderlands Another titan of the Arizona craft beer scene, Borderlands Brewing Company occupies a stunning brick building, just on the north side of the heart of downtown Tucson. The taproom is decorated with local artists' work on the walls with very rustic metal and wood aesthetics. Above the bar are hand drawn, colorful plaques for each beer on tap and a refrigerator keeps cool a selection of frosty cans to take-home. Out front is another brick seating area with views of the towering buildings downtown. Their taproom is located right next to the live music venue 191 Toole. Borderlands is a staple of the Tucson beer scene and is a great place to spend some time escaping the heat with some cold, tasty, local beers.

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MotoSonora Moto Sonora is what happens when you mix a craft brewery with a beautiful vintage bike collection. It’s nestled in a largely industrial district, but is still close enough to downtown to be considered “downtown.” The food truck out front has a tasty spread which compliment the beers on offer. The beers are made in house and are stellar. MotoSonora is absolutely worth navigating the oddball Tucson streets to have a tasty beer on the patio while the puppies play in the dog run with some excellent murals as a backdrop. Be sure to take a mixed 6-pack home with you!

Bawker Bawker

Cider houses are the diamonds in the rough in the midst of the the recent craft beer renaissance. Bawker Bawker is a diamond among the diamonds with their myriad of magnificent ciders made with some locally grown and harvested ingredients. Along side a rotating flavor of the month, there is an assortment of classics, but the real stand out is the frozen apple cider. The frozen apple is always available, but there are occasional other flavors such as Orange Dream. Bawker Bawker is on a busy corner of Historic 4th Ave along side some of the greats of the Tucson food and beer scene. The inside is very welcoming with a long, high bar, some booths, and some excellent window seats that let you people watch while you have a flight of made-on-site ciders.


Harbottle

A bit off the beaten path, Harbottle brings some hoppiness to the southeast side. Nestled in a small shopping center just down the street from the Tanque Verde Swapmeet, it’s a great starting or ending place for a city wide beer crawl. The taproom is aesthetically pleasing, with succulents on every table, and a very eye catching accent wall festooned with comfortable leather chairs and Del Bac whiskey barrel tables. Harbottle also has a rotating art exhibition that is well worth checking out. The brews on tap are expertly poured and have catchy, memorable names like Snow Shoes and Cucumber Derby. The taproom has outdoor seating as well that is lovely when its not 150 degrees outside. Harboottle is a worthy addition to the Tucson brewery scene and well worth the small sojourn.

Tap & Bottle Tap & Bottle is referred to as “neutral ground” for brewers and distillers in Tucson. They are an aggregator of an incredibly eclectic collection of brews, ciders, and all manner of alcoholic expressions. Their bottleshop is overflowing with canned selections that can be enjoyed on-premise or packed up and taken home. The atmoshpere, paired with the food trucks out front several nights a week, make Tap & Bottle an essential stop for any Tucson fermented beverage fans. If you happen to fall in love with a Tucson brew they have on tap, chances are you are within walking distance of the source.

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Crooked Tooth Crooked Tooth occupies a nice niche in the Tucson beer scene. They offer a wide selection of flavors and styles of beer, ranging from traditional IPA’s to the quirkily named Laser Sound Waves Sour that will satiate just about anyone’s pallet, be they beer snobs or someone who thinks PBR is the pinnacle of beer brewing potential. Crooked Tooth offers flights served on a skateboard which is a very gnarly way to get a taste for their wares. They do ask that you keep the boards on the table and to not ride off on them. Located just around the corner from Tap & Bottle and The Royal Room, Crooked Tooth makes a great stop on a bar hopping trip or a just place to settle at a table and open a tab.

Arizona Beer House The east side of Tucson is slowly growing its collection of fine brew-related establishments like Harbottle and Black Rock Brewery, but before those spots pulled their first wort from the mash Arizona Beer House was serving as a meeting place for beers from all over the state. Opened in 2015, Arizona Beer House has become a mainstay in the Tucson craft beer scene, hosting all the local greats as well as guests from other parts of the state. The taproom has a great ambiance that is helped by live music, food trucks, and lovely guests. Regardless of what part of town or state you're in, making a stop at Arizona Beer House should be on your itinerary.

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Osteria Mia Osteria Mia is one of the newest Italian restaurants in the valley. Located in north Phoenix just off the I-17 on Happy Valley Road and owned by the young and polarizing restauranteur, Mario Rana.

Osteria, is an Italian word that represents a style of restaurant that has a casual and laid back environment. Mario’s vision is to put his twist on the casual dining experience by insisting the environment not compromise the integrity of the food. His vision, much like his wood-fired pizza, is being executed to perfection.

Simply put Osteria Mia is as versatile of a restaurant as there is in Arizona. World-class dishes of authentic Italian food that are worthy of any special occasion. Conversely, you can have as casual of an experience as you would want to if you were stopping in for a quick bite to be paired with a glass of wine or beer before, catching a live performance at the neighboring state forty eight rock house.

The food is all incredible, but some of our favorites are the pizza! The quality is as classy as it gets and look of it is this beautiful, symmetrical, piece of food art. Mario is passionate about pizza and it shows with his careful attention to details on how the pizza is prepared and cooked. Osteria Mia uses an Italian imported pizza oven (Rosito Bisani) and is using olive wood to enhance the authenticity of the flavor of their pizza. Two of the top pizzas are the Diavolo and the Jalapeno popper.


Written by Steven Larson

Photographed by Luke Irvin


OSTERIA MIA

The Diavolo - Tomato sauce, house made mozzarella, spicy soppressata, calabrian chilis, ricotta, honey. (Seen on left) Jalapeno Popper - House pickled jalapenos, bacon, cheddar, mozzarella, cream cheese with a garlic oil sauce. (Seen bottom left of next page) However, if you are not the spicy pizza type, their Margherita, is an old classic- tomato sauce, homemade mozzarella, fresh extra virgin olive oil, and fresh basil. Compliment any of these pizzas with their incredible local tap selection from: Grand Canyon, Front Pourch, Simple Machine and State Forty Eight.


OSTERIA MIA

Appetizers Cocoli: Delectable, soft, fried pizza dough balls topped with honey drizzle severed with a spreadable malleable butter like cheese called stracchino and topped with thinly sliced prosciutto crudo. (Pictured above) Arancini: Lightly fried, baseball sized risotto balls stuffed with beef, peas, and mozzarella. Placed into a shallow pool of tomato sauce and lightly dusted with parmesan cheese. If you are looking for top notch, handmade pastas that are made daily then this is for you! Here are 2 incredible dishes you can find at Osteria Mia.

Pasta Norcina: Rigatoni pasta coated in a to-die-for black truffle and garlic cream sauce with ground sausage, cremini mushrooms and pecorino romano. The addition of the sausage creates a fantastic balance that pairs elegantly with the white cream sauce and is an absolute must try. (Seen above)

Short Rib Radiatore: Radiatori pasta is a short, thick shape with ruffled edges that resemble radiators. Fun fact, many believe the shape was based on the design of a radiator in a Buggati. This dish highlights the radiatore pasta as it is covered in red wine braised short rib tomato ragu. This is finished off with a nice complimenting dollop of fresh ricotta cheese.


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Scottsdale: 7120 E. Becker Lane Scottsdale, AZ 85254

Est. 2012 as an Artisan wood fire pizzeria. Through the years, Il Bosco thrived while wining awards and recognition of one of the best pizzerias in the Valley. The desire has and is to expand to allow others around the Valley of the Sun to experience and enjoy what is known as “The Best Crust in Arizona”. With the opening of our second location in downtown Phoenix, we are well on our way! Come give us a try. Jeff, Owner/Managing Partner

Phoenix: 918 N. 5th St. Phoenix, AZ 85004

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Perry Land & Cattle Written and Photographed by Marci Symington

Modern day farmers and cattle ranchers face multiple obstacles related to urban sprawl. That includes balancing the need to feed a growing population while supporting sound land stewardship principles and respecting the environment. Justin and Alicia Perry of Perry Land & Cattle have developed a type of farming operation that meets these goals of responsible land management and preserving the ecology of the Sonoran Desert. Perry Land & Cattle is an innovative, modern-day cattle operation, committed to providing high quality, sustainable beef to the consumer through its online store and on the menu of select Valley restaurants.

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Alicia, a professor of Global Studies at ASU, is a former US Air Force officer and Treasury Department analyst who moved west to Arizona from DC to explore new opportunities and to “meet a cowboy.” As luck would have it, within a year of the move, she was introduced to Justin Perry, a Gilbert native whose family has been farming the Valley for five generations. Together they have merged their talents and passions to create a wholly integrated farming and ranching system. This “loop


Modern day farmers and cattle ranchers


system” involves the collection of green waste, biodegradable waste such as tree trimmings and shrubs, and breaking it down to mulch to plant crops used as feed in their cattle operation. Justin runs the composting end of the operation, called CTS Green Waste Recycling. CTS accepts all types of green waste and breaks it down to mulch, creating sustainable soil amendment for commercial farming. This mulch improves crop yield, reduces landfill waste, and reduces the need for synthetic fertilizers. Another benefit is the process creates a valuable carbon offset while improving the structure of the soil and water retention. Justin explains, “It (the green waste) is organic, and there has got to be something we can do with it other than put it in the landfill… If we can actually use this on a farm, and find a way to collect a tipping fee that helps us process material, keep it affordable, and get it on a field for compost, then that makes sense.” Alicia adds, “With this (farming practice), we can start meeting some of the things being asked of us: the sustainability and the decreased carbon footprint, without having to fundamentally disrupt the way we produce food.” As farmers face more pressure to feed a growing population with dwindling margins and resources, sustainable farming practices become increasingly essential for the future of agriculture. The sister company to CTS is Perry Land & Cattle, a cattle operation whose feed comes from the family farm land that uses CTS soil amendment. Perry Land & Cattle hand-selects their cattle off local desert ranches. “We don’t look for a certain breed, but how they are raised and what they are fed… we really focus on the quality. If we are going to do this, we are going to do it right. It is going to be sustainable, it is going to be hormonefree, antibiotic-free, and we are going to have a system of protocols.” The cattle are prepared for market using a controlled feeding program, gently increasing the weight and quality of each animal, and harvesting only when conditions are optimal. Every step from start to finish places

animal health and beef quality first and foremost. In addition to the cattle feed from their soil amendment operation, the cattle are fed a liquid by-product of the beer brewing process, called wort, provided by Four Peaks Brewery. The wort provides nutritional value for the cattle feed, as well as adding a unique flavor profile to the beef. “They were dumping (the wort), and we wanted to recapture this quality nutrition that cows need.” Alicia jokingly added, “We just look at all the things that people throw away and think, ‘What can we do with that?’” Four Peaks then purchases Perry Land beef to use in a specialty burger, aptly named the Drunken Cow Burger. Found at the Four Peaks Brewery on 8th Street in Tempe, the Drunken Cow Burger features Perry Land ground beef served on a brioche bun with smoked bacon aioli, American cheese, beerbraised onions, lettuce and tomato (seen on the right). Perry Land & Cattle beef can also be found in some of the Valley’s finest restaurants, like Tarbell’s and FnB. Chef Mark Tarbell says the Perry Land & Cattle Ribeye is the best selling steak on their menu. “The steak is a really superior quality from a thoughtful and intentional Arizona rancher. What we add to this are four sauces to create a dynamic experience, and we also trim it to the center of the center, the eye of the ribeye. We are constantly adding fun seasonal sides like house-made Parmesan gnocchi and organic, local mushrooms.” The ribeye is featured on the menu at Tarbell’s when supply is available. In addition to selling to a few Valley restaurants, Perry Land & Cattle beef can be purchased on their website and available for either delivery or pick up at the Farm Store at Agritopia in Gilbert. All beef is dry aged at a minimum of 21 days, and individual cuts of meat up to whole sides of beef are available for purchase. If you are lucky, you may even get one of Alicia’s family recipes for rubs. Local, sustainable, and mouth-wateringly delicious, Perry Land & Cattle is making a mark on the Valley scene contributing to a new level of quality for beef.


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TACOS CALAFIA Written & Invertviewed by Christina Barrueta

Photographed by Luke Irvin

“Tacos are universal,” says Adolfo Torres with a grin, “everybody loves tacos.” ¡Es verdad! In 2016, Torres and his family parked a trailer in Peoria and introduced Phoenicians to the Tijuana-style tacos they had been serving for decades to family and friends. Five years later, the family affair continues to grow. Tacos Calafia, winner of Phoenix New Times Best New Restaurant 2017 and Best Al Pastor in 2018, and PHOENIX Magazine Best Tacos 2019, is now set to open their fifth location in North Phoenix. Torres’ menu includes street tacos, quesadillas, burritos, nachos, vampiros (crunchy tortillas topped with melted cheese and taco toppings pictured on the right) and mulitas (two tortillas sandwiching the taco *** and salsas are made fresh daily and filling inside). Handmade tortillas, guacamole signature marinades are closely-guarded family recipes.



TACOS CALAFIA What defines Tijuana style tacos? First are handmade tortillas with yellow corn. We use a nixtmal masa for our tacos which is an authentic way the corn is processed, and our tortillas are made fresh on demand. Toppings for tacos like carne asada and al pastor are simple - white onion, cilantro, salsa and guacamole. We keep it authentic and make everything fresh every morning.

How did you get your start? As a kid helping my parents. I lived in Los Angeles until I was 8, but when things got bad with racial issues and gangs, we returned to Mexico and ended up in Tijuana, and my parents were deciding what to do. My dad had worked in a taco shop in his hometown of Sinoloa, so he knew the business. He loves to cook and his food has great flavor, or sazón, as we say in Spanish. So it was a no-brainer – we opened a taco stand and started selling carne asada, al pastor and tripa tacos. It was just a little stand with a bench and I’d hand out the soda, sweep the area and help as much as I could.

How did you end up in Arizona? By 2001, my siblings and I were headed towards high school and college. Since we were all US citizens, we decided the smartest thing to do was to pursue our education in the US, and ended up in Glendale. We worked as a family in the commercial cleaning business at first, but always had that entrepreneurship mindset about starting a taco shop. Not only for a business, but because we had a hard time finding good Tijuana-stye tacos. In 2016, we finally got together and said, the timing is right, let’s make it happen.

Was your original plan a food truck? It was our only option. Because of the investment, we had to start small. We worked with somebody to convert a trailer into a kitchen, and towed it with my dad’s pick-up. The permit and zoning process was very challenging, but just by accident we found the perfect spot. We were driving by a large corner lot at 67th Avenue and Thunderbird where a Circle K had closed. There was a bicycle shop there using the parking spots in front of the store and the rest of the lot was open. We said, let’s go talk to the owner, and the location ended up checking all the boxes.

TACOS CALAFIA


When did you open your first restaurant? Tacos Calafia is just myself and my wife. My dad and a couple of my brothers have kept the food truck. They’re Tacos Tijuana, and they’re doing great too and also expanding. I opened this [Peoria] location in 2017 and when we started to have lines out the door, we opened our second location in Surprise about a year later. Three months later we opened in Tolleson, so all were within a year and a half. We also recently started to offer franchise-type expansions, but keeping it within family and friends. We take pride in our brand so we need to have people who are very familiar with what we do and are able to keep up the quality. For example, the downtown Phoenix location is owned by Wendy, my wife’s twin sister, and her husband Leo.

What’s on the menu? We started with three meats, pollo, carne asada and al pastor, and now have cabeza and nopales, our vegan option. We also have a secret menu with our naked tacos. The name came about because we strip the tortillas out to make it keto friendly. People were asking for tacos with just the meat, so I said, we can do something better than that! We make a cheese crust by grilling cheese on our plancha so it’s like a tortilla chip and use them to make the naked tacos, mulitas and quesadillas. As far as drinks, our micheladas come with chamoy and tajin rims and our customers started asking us to rim margaritas, so you can request that too. I pretty much say whatever you can imagine with the ingredients we have, we’ll make it happen.

Tell me about the murals. They represent the streets of Tijuana. Those mini-buses are called calafias – that’s where the name for Tacos Calafia comes from. They’re the city’s public transportation and are everywhere. The burro painted as a zebra is something you’ll see on every corner in Tijuana for you to take pictures as souvenirs. And that statue is Cuauhtémoc that you’ll see at the glorieta, or roundabout; you can’t miss it when you’re in Tijuana. We have a lot of guests that know Tijuana. And as soon as they walk in and they see those murals and images and smell the tacos, they’re transported. We get comments about that feeling of nostalgia a lot - they ask for the manager or owner, just to tell me that it reminds them of their childhood. I love that because that’s the way I feel. The ambiance and the smells remind me of helping out my parents as a kid, so for customers to tell me they feel the same thing, it means the world to me.

What does the future hold? We’re opening our fifth location and second franchise. It will be in North Phoenix at 16th Street and Bell and owned by very close friends of ours. t the same time, I have a couple managers that have been working for me since we opened and they’re ready too. I’m very appreciative of our staff and their commitment. Opening their own franchise is their goal, and we’re going to work very hard to make it happen for them.


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