FEARLESS INNOVATION | Atlanta's Food Story

FEARLESS INNOVATION Atlanta’s Food Story Taria Camerino

FEARLESS INNOVATION Atlanta’s Food Story

Taria Camerino Photography by Brittany Wages

Copyright © 2020 by Atlanta Convention & Visitors Bureau All rights reserved. This book or any portion thereof may not be reproduced or used in any manner whatsoever without the express written permission of the publisher except for the use of brief quotations in a book review.

Printed in the United States of America ISBN 978-1-09831-973-1

Art direction by Taria Camerino including concept, layout, and food/prop styling on behalf of Atlanta Convention & Visitors Bureau with lead support by L. B. Hruda, Project Manager Photography by Brittany Wages unless otherwise credited Design by Melissa McAlpine Layout consultation by Marium Khalid, Skycreature Productions Collaborating Editors: Sheretha Bell, Carol Carter, Travis Currie, Jo Ann Haden-Miller, and Heather Kirksey DiscoverAtlanta.com

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Acknowledgments

pg. 7

Introduction

pg. 9

Preface

pg. 11

Foreword

pg. 13

A Seat at the Table

pg. 19

From Memory

pg. 33

A Profession of Hope

pg. 41

Only the Beginning

pg. 55

With the Grain

pg. 61

A Place to Call Your Own

pg. 71

Up to the Bar

pg. 79

Work in Progress

pg. 87

Just Getting Started

pg. 97

Recipes

pg. 162

Chef Reference

pg. 255

Conversion Chart

pg. 257

Glossary

pg. 261

Resources

pg. 265

Reference

pg. 269

Epilogue

pg. 277

About the Author

pg. 279

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Please know, I offer this small token to the world. This offering is made with humility and respect for all those whom I have had the remarkable pleasure to work with and those I look forward to meeting.

This book is made possible by Andrew Wilson’s dedication to Atlanta’s culinary scene. His team at Atlanta Convention & Visitors Bureau has been nothing short of amazing. They’ve helped me express both the pain and the beauty of this project and to realize the vision. Their commitment is remarkable.

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INTRODUCTION This is not your typical cookbook. Yes, it has recipes, but so does your box of pasta.

That is where the similarities end. The goal of this book is to make you hungry hungry to explore this city, hungry to meet our chefs, hungry to learn innovative ways to combine ingredients, and, above all, hungry to eat every single one of the dishes in this book.

This book will be more at home on your coffee table than on your bookshelf or in your kitchen. While that is intentional, it should not distract f rom the sheer talent represented by these chefs that call Atlanta home. We want this book to stimulate conversations about Atlanta’s burgeoning food scene. More than anything, we want this to shine a spotlight on the up-and-coming creatives who work tirelessly alongside the established chefs, some of whom have been operating in Atlanta for many years.

Atlanta’s food story has been told by many people over the years but none with the focus and passion that chef Taria Camerino has brought to this project. We invited Taria to curate and author this book not only because she is a talented chef in her own right, but also because she has a unique perspective on the food scene in Atlanta, having lived and worked here for several decades. Taria brought a level of passion to this project not only in her personal quest to elevate the awareness of the Atlanta food scene, but also in her desire to understand the complex social history of race relations, Atlanta’s role in the American civil rights movement, and the impact of all of this on Atlanta’s dining scene.

Atlanta has, for many years, been playing catch-up with other major U.S. cities that have storied culinary reputations. Atlanta as a city is only 10 years younger than Chicago but has not enjoyed the reputation for its culinary scene at anywhere near the same level.

To understand why, we worked with historians and learned f rom residents who took us back to the beginning of the American civil rights movement to appreciate that a rich and diverse culinary scene could never begin to develop in an environment of segregation. It was only in the late 1960s that people of all colors could sit at the same table and begin to share a meal. For this reason, we believe that Atlanta’s food scene started 100 years or more after such beginnings in the North.

The narrative of this book is pictorial in nature as we believe so much more can be shown than can be said about the beauty of our story. We hope you enjoy the telling of the story and f inish this book very, very hungry.

Andrew Wilson Executive Vice President and Chief Marketing Off icer, Atlanta Convention & Visitors Bureau 9

PREFACE

When asked to curate a cookbook for Atlanta, I was intimidated. The undertaking of a project with this much history, this much grit requires humility and grace. It demands that the story be told with as much honesty as possible. My practice as a chef, as in all areas of living, is to remove myself f rom the story line. I work to distinguish my own narrative f rom the subjects’ expressions.

This is not an easy task, to be sure, but it does explain my process.

The only way I can communicate the truths of history, of a farm, or of a culinary scene is to get out of the way.

Balance.

I must f ind the correct balance in storytelling, in cooking, and in living.

Atlanta has a history steeped in pain, like the tannin that lingers in the mouth f rom too much sweet tea. It also tastes like hope, like resilience; it tastes like f reedom that was hard-fought and doesn’t quite f it right. To compare the Atlanta culinary scene to any other would be unjust. The truth is obvious, when part of the population is doing all it can to suppress another part, progress will be stunted and growth will be challenging.

Atlanta has struggled with this reality for some time, but this city is moving fast – pushing through roadblocks and barricades that have been placed before it, in ways that are inclusive, skilled and intentional. This city is cooking with a hunger that only comes f rom knowing lack and limitation. The city’s food story is unfolding of its own volition, never accepting the walls of any box it has been forced into.

So, I am humbled. I am also hopeful that I can get out of my own way to tell this story.

Not just in my own words, but by listening, sharing, and giving. Like a really good meal, the kind that lasts for hours, with family you love and family you only love at dinner. You take your time, you taste each dish, each sentence, each confession – and you hope you walk away better for it.

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FOREWORD

“Sit-ins and other demonstrations are concerned with something much bigger than a hamburger or even a giant-sized Coke.”

- Ella Baker Restaurants are shared social institutions. Within these settings, we fall in love, celebrate milestones and achievements, develop business partnerships, and create unforgettable memories. Restaurants allow us to expand our appreciation for new flavors and cultures, and the Atlanta of today is one of the most diverse American cities thanks to the many cultures now calling this city “home.”

Atlanta’s food community is like no other in the South and is constantly evolving. It possesses a population brimming with creativity and self-expression. And while Southern food is fundamentally a combination of Af rican, Native American, and European influences, the diversity among local chefs and the cross-cultural exchanges that occur f rom their exposure to others have further enriched Atlanta’s culinary scene.

It is important to acknowledge that Atlanta’s development as a culinary capital commenced only when legal segregation ended, with restaurants playing a vital role in destroying Jim Crow practices during the American civil rights movement. Once the social systems and cultural norms that caused the nation to exist in silos were removed, opportunities for people of various racial and cultural groups opened, allowing them to literally share a seat at the table.

And while restaurants have the power to bring people together, for nearly a century they were instrumental in perpetuating racial segregation in America. Immediately after the emancipation of black men and women, Congress passed the Civil Rights Act of 1866, granting f reed persons “full and equal benef it of all laws and proceedings for the security of person and property.” As Af rican-Americans exercised their f reedom of movement during Reconstruction, they acquired political and economic power and pushed their way into the public sphere which was met with white opposition. Congress signed into law the Civil Rights Act of 1875 ordering equal treatment in hotels, theaters, hospitals, transportation, and restaurants. It was the last federal civil rights legislation passed until the Civil Rights Act of 1957. Unfortunately, the United States Supreme Court ruled in 1887 that the earlier Civil Rights Act was unconstitutional and therefore made it lawful for private persons and institutions to deny services to individuals of color. The decision outraged blacks and whites because it would inevitably set the stage for legal segregation in America.

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In 1895, Atlanta hosted the Cotton States and International Exposition in Piedmont Park. For one hundred days, more than eight hundred thousand visitors were introduced to thousands of exhibitions showcasing the accomplishments and technology of various nations and institutions.

And while the exposition was a celebration of the world’s cultures, segregation practices were employed on the fairgrounds. Restaurants and booths, including the “Creole Restaurant” managed by white women, denied service to blacks and other minority groups. Af rican-Americans were conf ined to dining at the only black-owned restaurant in the park, which was located inside the Negro Building.

The following year, the U.S. Supreme Court ruled in Plessy v. Ferguson that racially separate facilities, if equal, were constitutional. The legalization of segregation in America did not come without pushback. The landmark decision ignited a massive wave of civil rights activism at the turn of the twentieth century. For the next sixty years, Af rican-Americans fought against a system of racial oppression governed by Jim Crow laws and customs. In 1954, the Brown v Board of Education decision overturned racial discrimination in public schools. But Atlanta, like many Southern cities, was resistant to implementing social change. This would include not only schools but also libraries, hospitals, theaters, and restaurants as well.

Restaurants, cafeterias, and lunch counters became the battleground for challenging Jim Crow laws and customs, perpetuating racist practices daily. Activists were willing to march, sit-in, picket, boycott, and even go to jail over restaurants and diners resistant to offering Af ricanAmericans equal service. The task was not easy and proved to be very dangerous. It required bravery and, most importantly, training in nonviolent resistance. The responses f rom white restaurant managers, customers, and police off icers were always unpredictable.

Sit-ins essentially gave birth to the youth-led Student Nonviolent Coordinating Committee (SNCC), and its national headquarters was established in Atlanta. The civil rights organization existed tangentially alongside the Southern Christian Leadership Conference (SCLC) led by Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. SNCC attracted the leadership of John Lewis, Julian Bond, Stokely Carmichael, Ruby Doris-Smith Robinson, Marian Wright Edelman, and James Forman. Senior activist Ella J. Baker encouraged SNCC members, “the Negro and white students, North and South . . . to rid America of the scourge of racial segregation and discrimination – not only at lunch counters, but in every aspect of life.” However, she reminded the youth activists that the “sit-ins and other demonstrations” were “something much bigger than a hamburger or even a giant-sized Coke.”

Like SNCC, Atlanta University Center (AUC) students belonging to the Committee of Appeal for Human Rights (COAHR) also challenged restaurants in the downtown commercial district to integrate their establishments. Before sit-ins occurred, businesses were put on notice following the publication of “An Appeal for Human Rights.” The manifesto written by Spelman College SGA President Roslyn Pope, appeared as a full-page ad in the Atlanta Constitution, Atlanta Journal, and Atlanta Daily World. From March 1960 to 1961, college students were arrested for trying to integrate lunch counters and cafeterias. In October 1960, Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. and AUC students participated in a “Jail-No-Bail” demonstration. As they entered the Magnolia Restaurant and other cafeterias at Rich’s Department Store, Dr. King and 52 students, mostly women, were handcuffed and placed into police cars.

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Ongoing protests led to white business leaders urging student activists to call off their demonstrations. As a compromise, Atlanta agreed to enforce the Brown decision and allow for the integration of public schools to commence in August 1960. The desegregation of downtown eating establishments would ensue. Unfortunately, the “Negotiation,” as it came to be called, was breached. Only nine of nearly 200 Af rican-American applicants were allowed to enroll in majority-white public schools, and dining facilities failed to integrate.

For four consecutive years, downtown Atlanta remained a hotbed for social protest. Af ricanAmerican activists and unhooded members of the Ku Klux Klan picketed within arms reach of each other. Meanwhile, a small group of restaurateurs hoped to assist Atlanta in living up to its image as “a city too busy to hate” by using their businesses as a way to usher in social change.

In 1936, Evelyn Jones and her sister opened Evelyn Jones Cafe at 880 West Hunter Street (now Martin Luther King Jr. Drive). In the mid 40s, she and her husband Luther Frazier expanded it and renamed it Frazier’s Cafe Society. Evelyn J. Frazier’s restaurant was one of the few restaurants in the city willing to challenge the social taboo of blacks and whites dining together under a single roof. In 1960, Paschal’s Restaurant offered its restaurant as a meeting place for SNCC, COAHR, and SCLC leaders and strategists. The gesture made by its owners, James and Robert Pashcal, caught the attention of blacks and whites in the city who offered their support by patronizing the restaurant. Embraced as an Atlanta landmark, Herren’s Restaurant, owned by Ed Negri, was integrated. Criticism and threats followed. As the American civil rights movement gained momentum, these three restaurateurs demonstrated that change was possible.

Following a series of demonstrations organized by SCLC and SNCC during Freedom Summer, U.S. President Lyndon B. Johnson signed into law the Civil Rights Act of 1964. Title II of the Act outlawed discrimination in public accommodations. Testing the new law, three college students attempted to dine at the Pickrick Restaurant in downtown Atlanta, owned by Lester Maddox.

The staunch segregationist unabashedly pointed a gun at the activists before a live media crew.

A legal suit was f iled against the Pickrick, which resulted in a federal district court ruling that private businesses could not practice overt racial discrimination. Maddox, eventually, was forced to close his restaurant but not without garnering the support f rom Georgia conservatives to be elected as governor of the state in 1966.

Jim Crow was dead. Restaurateurs like Maddox, who were no longer allowed to practice racial discrimination within the public sphere, took flight and reestablished their businesses in the suburbs. This exodus left many buildings vacant in the commercial district of downtown. Still, it created the opportunity for progressive-minded business leaders to envision a new image of Atlanta as a modern, thriving, innovative, and socially-progressive city.

The decade of the 1970s was met with new changes in Atlanta. The city elected its f irst Jewish mayor, Sam Massell, Jr., in 1969, followed by the election of its f irst Af rican-American mayor, Maynard H. Jackson, Jr. in 1973. Under Jackson’s administration, the city began the building Maynard H. Jackson International Terminal at the Atlanta airport. After his death, the airport’s name was changed f rom William B. Hartsf ield Atlanta International Airport to Hartsf ieldJackson Atlanta International Airport. Home to the world’s busiest airport, Atlanta is now a major destination for conferences and conventions.

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Architect John Portman opened the Hyatt Regency as an integrated full-service hotel. Hoping to seek solutions to racial and economic challenges that divided many cities, Portman used his blue-dome restaurant, Polaris, to host meetings between business and civic leaders. The discussions held there led to the creation of Atlanta’s Action Forum, where Portman served as one of its founding members.

With time, the city has become more international and cosmopolitan. Today, Atlanta is the heart of the South. It is a progressive city where culture and art are commonplace. It attracts and fosters creative people and businesses f rom all over the world, and they are helping shape everything including the local food scene. But, the beautiful diversity of the chefs and their dishes represented in this book would not have been possible were it not for the brave activists, the determined students, the pioneering spirit of icons like James and Robert Paschal, Evelyn Jones Frazier, and Ed Negri opened doors for a future of fearless innovators represented by the beautiful diversity of these Atlanta chefs and their dishes.

Karcheik Sims-Alvarado, Ph.D. Historian and Author

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A SEAT AT THE TABLE

Atlanta cooks with the discipline, def iance and the audacity required of the world’s greatest chefs. Atlanta cooks with swagger, a self-conf idence that results only f rom the knowledge that there is no other city like this one.

Throughout Atlanta, you are offered a glimpse into the city’s past, a constant reminder of the history that has shaped this bold and resilient food scene. When we look back, we are met with the struggle that shaped not only the South, but the entire country’s position on racism.

Atlanta restaurants emerged as the vital center for social responsibility. During the civil rights movement food became the heart of the rebellion. Establishments like Paschal’s, Busy Bee Cafe, and Frazier’s Café Society provided not only food but also the sustenance required for what would be a very arduous path toward liberation. These restaurants served as the meeting ground for change, providing nourishment for a community determined for equality and feeding the belly of a movement. Each meal acted as a direct action to the counteraction of oppression.

These restaurants offered resistance relief, providing meals for those on the f ront lines and for diff icult conversations to be had across the table. Dining rooms turned into the command centers of the revolution.

The heart of Atlanta’s resilient food scene is grounded in this perseverance, practiced in the determination to never settle for what should be, but instead to strive for what can be. The understanding that food and f reedom are inseparable remains at the foref ront of Atlanta’s culinary landscape. Maintaining this attentiveness in all aspects of restaurant life, f rom growing to cooking, to the people served, the culinary culture in Atlanta is founded in the pursuit of equality and dignity.

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FIRST ATLANTA RESTAURANTS TO INTEGRATE

Yogi Yohannon Joe Daole

Yohannon’s Restaurant Dale’s Cellar

Frank Larson

The Farm

Angelo Nikas

Camellia Garden

Tommy Biuso

Emile’s

John Escoe John, Herb and Tom Evans Paul Anderson

John Escoe’s Patio Restaurant and Calabash Lounge Evans Fine Foods Caruso’s on Piedmont

John Stresta

Howard Johnson’s, Company

Jack Sherman

Howard Johnson’s, Franchise

A.T. “Ted” Davis S.R. “Tubby” Davis Tom Ham W.J. Holt George Eng Jess Walton & Howard Christie Bill Kramer A.C. Davenport Werner Herman Cal Bradshaw Jack Komisarow

Davis Fine Foods Davis Brothers and Johnny Reb’s Seven Steers Polly Davis House of Eng S&W Cafeteria Fan and Bill’s Mammy’s Shanty Riviera Four Seasons Shoney’s Big Boy

E.A. Sonny Lewis

Crossroads

Dan Calbos

Cock & Bull

Louis Vargas

Biuso’s

Harold Soloff

Coach and Six

T.R. Soldo

Harvest House

Mrs. Eleanor Schwartz Bob Bradshaw Ed Negri Evenlyn J. Frazier

Eleanor’s Patio Restaurant Bradshaw’s Herren’s Frazier’s Café Society

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Evelyn J. Frazier Evelyn J. Frazier is, characteristically, the embodiment of Atlanta’s food scene – def iant of oppression, focused on progress, and results driven.

I have tried to keep an honest and separate perspective throughout this book, but on discovering the life of Evelyn Frazier, I am forever changed. Healed in a way. The deep understanding of her and the dedication she exhibited in every intentional action has conf irmed the making of this book for me. What does it mean to cook? What does it mean to serve for all? Evelyn Frazier didn’t just provide a space for conversations of revolution, her restaurant acted as the revolution. The menu providing a cuisine that was so forward thinking, that you can still f ind these dishes in restaurants today. Evelyn’s insistence that “her people” have the same right to eat in the type of establishments as their white counterpart was the revolution. White tablecloth service, distinct dining rooms, and eloquent execution was the normal for Frazier’s Café Society. The very nature of her life was instilled in how she served her guests. Color lines were blurred. The conversation centered on how one could be of service.

With a 40-acre farm, Evelyn J. Frazier had all the ingredients she needed to provide for her restaurant and to serve the larger community with f resh and local produce and meat. Frazier’s Café Society operated as a living example of food sovereignty. This was done as an act of resistance. A defiant and self-governing action of sustainability. She was able to keep her prices affordable for the clientele she served, while remaining autonomous in her non-cooperation with a system of oppression. Evelyn Frazier carried this efficacious confidence in every crusade she put her attention on. The foref ront of her work being the equality not only for Af rican Americans, but for women of color. A champion of civil rights, ambitious in every aspect of equality, the forefront of her work was for Af rican Americans, and especially for women of color. Evelyn founded as many organizations for women as there are items on her menu. With women in the movement often being overlooked throughout history, Mrs. Evelyn Frazier was determined to give them a seat at the table.

“To think big, is to be big.” This was the philosophical foundation of Evelyn Frazier’s life. She never believed that anything was impossible to achieve.

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“ T h e b eau ty of At lan ta is th e stren gth g th an d conn ec tedn ess o f o ur p e o p l e . At lan ta U n ive rsity Center ( AUC) , pic tured h ere, is h o m e to t h e world’s olde st an d larg largest est con centration of historically b l a ck col l e ge s an d u n ive rsit ies – minutes away f rom th e convent i o n d i s t ri c t , Ge orgia Sta te an d Georg Georgia ia Tech. Our collec tive influe n ce con t i nu e s to m a ke a st ron g impac t on Atlanta an d th e worl wo rl d .”

- Sheretha Bell 31

FROM MEMORY

Our hands hold the memories of our ancestors.

Heritage and tradition are passed down through generations, taught by masters or learned by trial and error. Every furrow and scar, born f rom work. There is a trust that happens when we work with our hands, a sort of resilience and assuredness that are the result of relying on one’s own capabilities.

The deliberation between what is art and what is craft is a moot conversation when in the presence of hands that create, hands that grow, hands that nurture. The practice of working with our hands connects us to the nature within ourselves and to the nature of community. In this deliberate action, we connect to the essence of life.

As a chef for more than 20 years now, my hands have been my most important tool. I have never known a chef, butcher, baker, farmer, or bartender who doesn’t feel the same. We use these tools to create in every way. We make an offering to others. It is in these offerings that we can share pieces of ourselves. An offering of hope, of f riendship, and of potential. Each hand holding within it a link to another’s story. A link to the past. The history here in Atlanta, in the South, is one that is painful to hold. The hands here channel and rework these memories into a new and promising future for all of us.

I invite you to take some time with the next photos. Notice the tenderness in the movements. Notice the steadfastness. In each action there is a responsibility to earth, to beauty, and to humanity.

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A PROFESSION OF HOPE

There is only one way to heal the land. That is to work it.

Break it up in your hands, rub the compact Georgia clay between your f ingers, plant seeds for a new future.

The farmers that serve the greater Atlanta area have crafted their livelihood in service, providing a sense of community nourishment that can only be matched by the chefs who receive their gifts and, in turn, make them new.

The chef and farmer community work in tandem. Their interconnectedness is revealed on the plates served at small restaurants like 8ARM and The Deer and The Dove, large scale operations like the Hyatt Regency Atlanta, and the socially-minded catering companies like Chow Club. The commitment farms like Grow Where You Are and Mena’s are the driving force for a sustainable equitable economy. Each season brings with it an ever-increasing variety of produce - and farmer, as well. The urban agricultural players are steadfast in the support of each other, providing farm relief when tragedies happen, information sessions with business consults, and f inancial support for growth.

The commitment these farmers show up with and share with each other is f illed with perseverance and loyalty.

We aren’t blessed with the 10-foot deep black soil in the Pacific West nor the wide-open spaces of the Midwest. What we have here requires digging deep, not only into the land, but into the heart as well.

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“ Th ere a re over 30 0 co m m u n i ty g a rd e n s a n d 5 0 u rb a n farms in t h e m e t ro At l a n ta a re a .”

- Food Well Alliance 43

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“Growing up in an extended Swedish family on a generational farm, food was the center of all things.”

- Steve Nygren, CEO & Founder, Serenbe, Pleasant Peasant 53

ONLY THE BEGINNING

“Let’s grab coffee.”

Which actually means, “Let’s spend time together; let’s collaborate.”

In an intimate exchange of ideas shared and expressed with ease, the topic of innovation is never far f rom the table. Coffee culture, up until now, has often been synonymous with a hipster, pretentious attitude. But this couldn’t be further f rom the truth here in Atlanta. This everyday experience brings each one of us together despite our different lives, our jobs, or our secret passions. Whether it is stopping on our daily commute, discussing the next big project, social justice issue, or even, f ingers crossed, a potential lover, coffee helps the conversation along. It might be mothers and babies connecting at Hodgepodge, students cramming for f inals at Momo Café, or motorcycle enthusiasts convening over the commonality of life.

In Atlanta, coffee is just the beginning. Multiple small roasteries are now fully committed to serving ethically grown, farmed, and roasted beans – a practically nonexistent practice up until a few years ago. Socially motivated companies like Dusé and Refuge rely on our fervent love for this morning brew, bridging the divide between us and them with a focus on giving back and building strong, healthy, integrated neighborhoods as well as tackling diff icult topics like mental illness and homelessness. Coffee in Atlanta is steeped in community and connection. These coffee houses serve up radical compassion in our morning cup.

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WITH THE GRAIN

Baking holds a particularly special place in my heart. I began my career being classically French trained in pastry, and it’s there I learned precision and technique. But, as with any cooking, one must allow for a deviation of that precision: a trust of one’s instinct.

And it’s instinct, rather than measured precision, that lies at the heart of Atlanta’s baking scene.

Atlanta is now home to as many bakeries as there are cuisines. Although many are technically new (like Osono Bread and Evergreen that opened in 2019), each is an embodiment of home, deeply rooted in culture, tradition, and history. The roots of baking history are grounded in the practice of “getting your hand in.” Biscuits, pies, hoecakes, and cornbread were once as ubiquitous as the Coca-Cola neon of the twentieth century. Icebox pies often took center stage on dessert menus, like the memorable lemon icebox pie f rom our own Evelyn Fraizer’s café, but icebox pie isn’t a new invention. This exact recipe spent many years on the menu of Mary Mac’s restaurant to little recognition. What I have found is that Atlantans always knew how good this pie was, but they didn’t need to shout f rom the rooftops - they just knew it to be true.

The South, by way of Atlanta, has always held breads, cakes, and pies with a sort of reverence. The bakers here are naturally unapologetic and gracefully self-assured. They know they are good, not because of accolades, but because they can feel it in their hands. And while biscuits will always be that special, we-know-we’re-home kind of bread, there is much more to try. Like everything that is Atlanta it takes groundbreakers to innovate the status quo.

In Sicily, where my family is f rom, they don’t eat a big dessert after dinner. Instead, they eat bread and cookies all day long, preferring to indulge often throughout the day. Atlanta is fast becoming a keeper of this practice. Atlanta has no shortage of variety by way of the “last course” or the f irst course or anywhere in between. With the ample selection of bakeries, boulangeries, and confectionaries, Atlantans can easily experience that at-ease sensation that only f resh-out-of-the-oven can make us feel.

Everything here is crafted with skilled hands and tender hearts.

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A PLACE TO CALL YOUR OWN

We go out to eat for the way it makes us feel. Engaging as a diner, as a guest, we are indulging our senses. The multiple layers of detail that go into the design of the menu are invariably matched in the design of the restaurant. Atlanta’s restaurant scene is unpretentious and courageous with every story being told through both the food and the ambiance. When this alignment occurs, we feel as though we are being transported. Walking through the doors of a restaurant is, in essence, like traveling to somewhere new.

We choose restaurants for as many reasons as there are cuisines. Drawn in by nostalgia, we go for comfort when it has been a hard week. We take our family out to celebrate or we might hope to fall in love. Each guest ultimately searches for the same thing, to be wrapped in the experience, to be enveloped in culture and life. We want to sit on the perfect couch, we want to dance, or maybe we want to remember our heritage. We want a place to call our own, a place that feels as comfortable as home, but completely and exactly different.

How the interior is designed becomes a singularly unique experience. Attention to the details in each and every element in the dining experience is what separates the characteristics of a restaurant. And this isn’t only reflective in f ine dining. This can be found in the taco stand Supremo, the cocktail bar Cardinal Hour, and even corner groceries like Candler Park Market. The designers of Atlanta excel in these authentic and heartfelt expressions of time and space. The expense of the design is not as important as is commitment to the experience.

The question we ask is, how does it make us feel?

In Atlanta, it makes us feel good.

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UP TO THE BAR

Christiane Lauterbach, the notably exacting critic, said, “I realize that for me there are only three kinds of cocktails: classic, magic, and a waste of money.”

The cocktail scene of any city can be measured by the talent and dedication of its bartenders. To tend bar is one of the most sacred professions. As I learned f rom my good f riend and “bartender-not-a-mixologist” Timothy Faulkner, cocktail hour can in some ways feel like a confessional. We want, or rather we hope, that the person on the other side of the bar is genuinely interested in us or is, at the least, interested in giving us a little comfort. A well-crafted drink can only get us so far. This is where Atlanta assures us, with its Southern graciousness, that we are taken care of. That we are like family.

In the last few years, the cocktail industry In Atlanta has evolved f rom a few select watering holes to a rich and vibrant landscape. With handcrafted bitters, in-house extractions and scrap-ferments, the sky appears to be the limit in terms of innovation and imagination. In the early days, when the scene was f irst expanding beyond its few tried and true local haunts, bartenders were the most reliable customer base for another bartender looking to try something new and exciting. A community of likeminded cocktail enthusiasts rallied around each other, supporting one another, and listening to one another. Greg Best, co-owner of Ticonderoga Club, remembers that he would “spend every single waking minute, that I wasn’t working, at other bars.”

Collaborating and building systems to sustain the budding industry made it so that potent mixtures meant to be consumed came with a side of magic.

The beauty found within the Atlanta drinking culture is its commitment to the people who make it happen. Supportive and genuine, they make it feel like you are being invited into their world. Despite the diverse expressions of a drink here, there is a continuity of experience. The scene is cooperative, driven, and acutely interconnected, making space for new faces and styles to share in a place behind the bar. The talent and passion for taking care of each other, of the guest, and of the craft become apparent in every glass.

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WORK IN PROGRESS

From beginning to end, there is a balance of trust and forgiveness that exists between chef and guest. There is this sense of almost abandon, in both the creation and in the enjoyment of art. This harmony requires us to give in to our desire to be fed. We must accept the journey we are being invited to go on and take in all the scenery along the way. A meal is a personal expression, an offering of beauty, of precision, and of love.

We are sojourners in a temporary world where what sustains our bodies can in fact sustain our souls.

It is as if we are being invited into a secret world, a place where there are limitless possibilities and expressions.

When asking each chef the question, “Why food?” I was not surprised to f ind within their answers a common thread weaving through this tapestry of precision and passion. What I wanted to know f rom them was, what is it about food that compels them to do what they do. Rarely does one make it in the industry without drive and determination. This Is one of the most demanding professions. It requires long hours, intense conditions, and an unrivaled responsibility. Chefs sacrif ice time with loved ones to cook for us, they support teams of employees, and provide a rich landscape for all to travel across. What about this gets each of them up every day, committing their lives to it? In an industry that carries high stress and low margins, there must be a hunger that pulls them in. Again, and again, they answered with the same meaningful response: Food brings people together. Food unites cultures, heals hearts, and gives us a deep connection to living.

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“As so o n a s yo u thi n k yo u kn ow At l a n ta , i t ch a n ge s .”

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JUST GETTING STARTED My f irst meal in Atlanta made me cry. Tears of rage and confusion rolled down my cheeks, and I asked myself what a Parisian like me was doing in a city where people ate their chicken f ried and piled unconscionable amounts of food around it on the same plate. In 1974, Ma Hull’s Boarding House in Inman Park was a big deal. Emory students, hippies who roamed nearby Little Five Points, and assorted residents of Mrs Hull’s actual boarding house crowded in. Fancy people ate at their clubs and occasionally took their spouses to downtown places such as the Midnight Sun. There were a handful of Chinese, Vietnamese, and Indian restaurants, some bad vegetarian places, some barbecue shacks, and an astonishing number of chicken and biscuit restaurants the white community took no notice of. Accustomed to exploring a city through its food culture, I eventually fell heels over head in love with soul food at the original Paschal’s Motor Lodge and Burton’s Grill, home to a deacon with a heart of gold who sizzled his birds in huge cast-iron pans and taught me about hoecakes and turnip greens.

I would have to wait until the early eighties and the construction boom ahead of the Olympics to discover Mexican food on Buford Highway, a harbinger of things to come.

In 1985, the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead brought the amazing Günter Seeger to town, still the best chef we ever had and the one who introduced ref ined dining and farm to table to a well-traveled local audience eager to flex its gourmet muscles.

In Atlanta, the pendulum has always swung between corporate enterprises and lonesome adventurers, now covered with tattoos and pushing extreme cuisine to trend-obsessed followers. We have food halls, farmers markets, international arteries crowded with food f rom the four corners of the world. Our craft cocktail scene, our premium oyster bars, our pop-ups, our hip neighborhoods rival those of other large American cities such as Houston or Chicago. We are even called the Los Angeles of the South. And yet, the national press ignores us on a regular basis.

What is wrong with Atlanta? Nothing! A sprawling metropolis with a busy airport, [critics said] we lack the easy charm of a Charleston and we don’t register as particularly Southern.

However, there is much to love about the youth and vitality of a food scene where women chefs and people of color are on the rise, giving all of us new reasons to explore parts of the city connected by our famous BeltLine.

Christiane Lauterbach Food Critic 97

(1)

AARON PHILLIPS “Food is art that tastes good.

It is one of my favorite ways to connect with people and is my outlet for creativity.”

RON HSU “To me food isn’t something that you just eat. It transcends so much more than that.

It not only nourishes your body but your soul as well. It breaks down cultural barriers and brings people together. Whether you’re a casual eater, chef, or server, food is the vehicle that can unite people. Food doesn’t care what color skin, religion, or social status you come f rom.”

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ALEX BOLAR “I fell in love with food because of the endless education. Also the fact that I love to learn about other cultures, art, and to eat as much as I do. Cooking became a no brainer.”

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CRISTINA LUGO SOTO “De San Vicente Palapa, Guerrero, Mexico. Yo crecí cocinando desayuno y almuerzo para mis 13 hermanos y por eso llegaba tarde a la escuela todas las mañanas. Yo aprendí a cocinar sola desde los 7 años. Nos mudamos de California a Atlanta para estar cerca de nuestros familiares.

Yo empecé a cocinar para amigos y vecinos desde mi apartamento, también trabajé en varios restaurantes a través los años. Eventualmenta fuí empleada por El Tesoro, desarrollando todas las recetas para el menu desde mi propia cocina. Amo saber que a los clientes les encanta la sazón de mi comida. Cocinar es mi pasión.”

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LINTON HOPKINS “It started because I like to eat, and eating things that I cooked grew into a way of connecting to others and the world in a meaningful and uplifting way.”

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STEVEN SATTERFIELD “When I realized cooking was a viable option, with value and artistry, I felt like I had found my home. Not only is food necessary but it provides joy, happiness, and substance to our everyday lives.

REAL FOOD should never be taken for granted. I think it is incredibly important to educate ourselves about the origins of food and keep real food traditions alive.”

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TODD RICHARDS “Food (and cooking food together) is the most sincere form of giving and sharing one can do. Cooking is a temporary art that requires dedication and attention at the stove. That dedication is not only a sacrif ice of the person cooking, it opens the heart of the person receiving these delicious gifts.”

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JEN YEE “Food feels right. Food allows us to gather, celebrate, mourn, nurture, and express ourselves in a way that words can’t.”

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BRUCE LOGUE “I cook because I’m not qualif ied to do anything else.”

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CARLA FEARS “As a latchkey kid, it was survival. As I grew to see the power food held, the intimate connection cooking afforded me. I found a medium in which I could hear my own voice.”

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GERRY KLASKALA “I’m a very visceral person, and food has always been my focus and my medium.

Though I’m still not sure if it chose me, or I chose it.”

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CHRISTOPHER FRALEY “I think for me food is maternal and nurturing. The bond that it creates when people enjoy a meal is like medicine. It’s a way I can take care of people through a universal service.”

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JIYEON LEE “Food is a memory to me. It takes me to the times that I loved or hated, together or alone doesn’t matter… I cook with my senses f rom my memories and I hope I give someone something memorable with my food.”

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JEB ALDRICH “There is nothing better than sitting down and sharing a meal with the people you care about. It’s something people do every day that gives them the opportunity to connect with others. Being part of a team that shares these same values is what makes the food.”

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JASON LIANG “Ever since I was a kid, food has always been my passion. Good food makes everyone happy and brings people together without boundaries.”

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NICOLAS BOUR “My father emigrated f rom France and the food culture was something that was instilled in me at a young age while my mother cooked f rom the Julia Child cookbook on a daily basis.

Our family summer spent in Paris and the countryside of France cemented the love of f ine cooking into my soul. Becoming a chef was a logical path for me to take.”

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CLEOPHUS HETHINGTON “For me food has always been about the connectivity and the history – being able to learn and share the history of dishes and cuisine forgotten about. While at the same time showing how we are all connected whether you are f rom one of the 54 countries of Af rica, United States, Latin America, Caribbean, Asia, Middle East, or Europe.”

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THOMAS MCKEOWN “Food is what brings us all together. It’s not just for the nourishment of our bodies, but it’s a moment for sharing, connecting, even arguing. Most people’s fondest memories are around the table, whether it’s a Thanksgiving with family, a f irst date, or Sunday pancakes with the kids. That’s what’s wonderful about food, it reminds us we’re all part of the same family.”

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MARICELA VEGA “Food is life and we need better representations of our entire foodway systems & cultures.”

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KEVIN RATHBUN “Food feeds the soul. Breaking bread is an essential part of life. Entertaining guests and f riends has been my lifetime goal. I just happen to be pretty good at it.“ 135

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ZEB STEVENSON “Over the last 23 years, everything in my life has changed multiple times over, but food has always been there. Cooking and the pursuit of better food has been my f riend when I was lonely and has celebrated the best times right along with me. It’s always been my best f riend.”

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YOHANA SOLOMON “Food can reveal a lot about who a person is. Often there are stories embedded in what and how I prepare my dishes. Most of my recipes are passed on f rom my mother.

It is my love language I use to connect with others.”

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TERRY KOVAL “Food is joy. Food is community. Food is life.”

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GERRY GARVIN “As a boy growing up in Atlanta my mother taught me early lessons in keeping my room cleaned, doing my homework, and starting dinner. As I began my love of food it not only changed my life but saved it. Food allows me to share my passion and love for people and ideas through food. Life’s just too damn short not to enjoy great food.”

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CHRYSTA POULOS “I was baking biscuits with my grandmother and mother f rom a very young age; I just really liked helping in the kitchen, no matter what it was.

I worked at a restaurant in high school in the kitchen, and f ront of the house waiting tables.

After I got out of the military, I didn’t know what I wanted to do, so went back to waiting tables and felt really at home in a restaurant.”

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CRAIG RICHARDS “As I got older, cooking became a lot more personal.

I’ve read that taste is the strongest memory so food can also be nostalgic in a way a lot of other mediums can’t. I enjoy sharing it with people, making people happy, and making a connection. I love when people say my food transports them somewhere else. What else in our lives does that so immediately?”

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KRISTEN BELAN “Food can be anything you want it to be. Sustenance, medicine, comfort, celebration… It’s nutritional alchemy.”

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SAMONE LETT “Not only does food heal the body but the soul as well. For me it has always been about family, f riends, and stories. During the holidays was always the best, it was these special times I could see all my cousins in one place, watch my uncles dance and tell jokes, see my aunts cooking all the goodies in the kitchen. I was always the one caught peeking in the pots or pans. It was where we all came together. Food has a way of doing that, food effortlessly brings cultures and communities together. You learn a lot about a person at a dinner table.”

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STACEY EAMES “‘Why food?’, you ask. Because ‘breaking bread’ almost always comes with ‘together’ and nothing brings people together like food and there’s no conversation better than that shared over food around a table. Food is a universal language, a most common human theme, yet as diverse as the people who enjoy it.”

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AMOR MIA ORIÑO “I grew up during the most unstable times, during martial law, coup d’etats, and daily 9-12 hour blackouts. Dinner and homework by candlelight was the norm, but despite all that, there was always food. Real food that nourished, comforted, and sustained us.”

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SHAY LAVI “Food is love for me and I am love.

The kitchen is the only place that I can talk in any language to everyone.”

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CLAUDIA V. MARTÍNEZ “Taking the time to prepare a meal and share with someone is a special sign of love. Food brings people together and creates moments of memory. I decided to be a chef because I wanted to be a part of that experience and to show my love through my food.”

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KAREN PORTALEO “Making art with food allows me the ability to create a much deeper experience with my work.

I can stretch far beyond mere visual storytelling.

Not only can you see the piece, but you can smell it, and you can take a piece of it for yourself and put it in your mouth and taste it. I can choose ingredients that elucidate the story and enhance your experience of it. It’s all quite seductive.”

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GRILLED SPANISH OCTOPUS bartlett pear. fermented black bean. char. serves 4 as an appetizer

braise 4 octopus tentacles, raw ½ cup paprika 1 cup Spanish onion, large dice 1 cup carrot ½ cup celery ½ head garlic 1 gallon (16 cups) water

Cut the onion, carrot, and celery into large dice. Roughly chop the garlic.

In a large pot, add water, onion, carrot, garlic, celery, and paprika. Bring to a boil over high heat. Let the aromatics steep for 30 minutes to 2 hours.

In a separate pot, bring octopus tentacles up to a very quick boil in water. Remove the octopus f rom the water and set aside. Discard the water.

Once braise is done steeping, add boiled octopus and simmer for 1 ½-3 hours, until tender. Remove octopus f rom the liquid and allow to cool. Reserve the liquid for another batch of octopus. (You can use this liquid up to 3 times.)

marinade 3 tbsp paprika 2 cloves garlic zest of 1 lemon 1/3 cup canola oil 1 tsp sugar

Place all ingredients, except oil, in a blender. Blend on high while slowly drizzling in oil.

Lightly coat octopus with marinade. Reserve the rest for the next batch. Marinate for at least 2 hours or overnight.

1/3 red onion 1 tbsp water vierge ¼ cup Chinese fermented black beans 2 tbsp red bell pepper 2 tbsp ginger 2 tbsp garlic 2 tbsp shallots 1 tbsp jalapeño 2 tbsp Bartlett pears 1 ¼ cups canola oil 2 tbsp chives juice of one zested lemon

Soak black beans in water for 5 minutes. Drain.

Cut the red bell pepper, ginger, garlic, shallots, jalapeños, and peeled pear into small dice.

Place canola oil into a medium pot and gently warm over low heat for 4-5 minutes. Add black beans to the pot and allow to bloom in the oil, about 2 minutes.

With the heat still on low, add red bell peppers, jalapeños, garlic, ginger, and shallots into the oil. Allow to bloom with the beans, another 6-8 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool.

Once cool, add pear, chives, and lemon juice.

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Chef Aaron Phillips and Chef Ron Hsu | 1

squid ink vinaigrette ½ tsp squid ink 1 tsp balsamic vinegar ½ clove garlic ¼ cup canola oil

Place all ingredients, except for oil, into a small pot. Give it a quick whisk. Quickly bring to a boil then remove f rom the heat.

Once cool, remove garlic and add oil..

plate 1 Bartlett pear ¼ red bell pepper arugula leaves marinated octopus

Core, half, and thinly slice the pear.

Julienne the red bell pepper. Reserve in ice water.

On a grill, over high heat, char octopus tentacles until all sides are browned, about 1-2 minutes per side.

Once browned, slice each tentacle into 1 ½ inch lengths, discarding the tips of the tentacles.

Place a small amount of vinaigrette on each plate. With the back of a spoon, spread the vinaigrette into an oval about 4 inches wide.

Stack octopus slices across the oval of the vinaigrette.

Spoon 1 ½ tablespoons of vierge over each plate. Garnish with 2 slices of pear, 2 red pepper juliennes, and 2 arugula leaves.

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RABBIT ROULADE charred cabbage. chow chow. korean pear. serves 6

rabbit 3 rabbits transglutaminase 3 qts (12 cups) water 2 medium onions, halved 1 tbsp black peppercorns

Break down rabbit, separating all segments.

Take rabbit loin and dust the interior (where the bone was) with a thin layer of transglutaminase.

Roll tightly into a roulade. Wrap tightly with plastic wrap and seal all ends. Cook roulade sous vide at 155 F for 1 hour.

Pressure cook the remainder of the rabbit with 3 quarts water, onions, and black pepper on high for 1 hour.

Reduce the 3 quarts of stock to 1 pint and reserve.

chow chow 4 bell peppers 2 onions, medium 1 head cabbage 1 qt apple cider vinegar

Dice all of the vegetables into small pieces. Place everything in a large pot. Bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer. Stir occasionally. Cook until the liquid texture is nappe.

2 cups sugar 1 cup glucose ¼ tsp clove 1 tbsp turmeric 1 tbsp cinnamon 1 tbsp allspice 1 tbsp ground mustard 1 cup mustard seeds 15 g (3 tsp) baking powder cabbage 12 napa cabbage leaves 1 handful mesquite wood chips

Separate each layer of cabbage leaf. Place leaves a in hotel pan, on one end. At the opposite end, light wood chips until they start to smoke. Cover the pan completely.

Allow cabbage to sit in the smoke for 1 hour.

Char each cabbage leaf with a blow torch before plating.

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Chef Alex Bolar | 2

korean pear 3 cups water 1 cup lemon juice 1 Korean pear rabbit roulades 2 tbsp neutral oil

In a large bowl, mix together water and lemon juice.

Peel the skin off of the pear. Set mandoline to 2mm thick.

Shave pear into ribbons and hold in the water until plating. roulades In a sauté pan over medium-high heat, add the oil. Once oil is shimmering, sear the roulades until brown and crisp on all sides. Remove to a paper-lined dish and rest for 3 minutes. Trim a half inch f rom the tip and tail of the roulade (the ends cook faster).

plate 1 pint reduced rabbit jus pea tendrils

In a wide-rimmed bowl, place the rabbit roulade to one side. Place the charred cabbage leaf on the opposite side and the shaved pear below. Pour 2 oz rabbit jus in the center of the bowl.

On the rim, place a small quenelle of chow chow. Set 2-3 pea tendrils on either side of the chow chow quenelle.

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Cristina Lugo Soto | 3

POZOLE BLANCO hominy. trozo. oregano. serves 20

puerco 3 lbs pork shoulder water to cover

Cut pork into 1 inch cubes. Place in hot water and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove and rinse under clean water.

Reserve for sopa.

hominy 2 lbs dry hominy 6 oz cal mexicana (slaked lime) 8 qts water 4 qts chicken stock

Add hominy, 8 quarts water, and slaked lime to a large pot. Bring to a low boil. Boil for 11/2 hours. Drain and rinse twice.

Mix the water and chicken stock in a large pot. Add hominy and simmer for 2 hours.

sopa reserved pork 2 tbsp oregano, dried 1 white onion

Add pork, oregano, halved onion, halved garlic head, bay leaves, and salt to the simmering hominy. Cook at a low boil for 2.5 hours, until the pork is fork tender.

1 head garlic 3 bay leaves 3 tbsp salt plating avocado serrano chiles radish

Ladle about 16 ounces into bowls and garnish with sliced avocado, serrano chiles, radish, onion, chicharron, and crispy tostadas.

onion chicharron crispy tostadas

167

PANEÉD FLOUNDER blood orange. mustard. brussels. bacon. serves 4

confit 1 head garlic 1 cup extra virgin olive oil, light body 1 laurel leaf, f resh

Peel garlic cloves, leaving them whole. Place into a small pot with laurel so that oil covers all of the garlic. Bring to a simmer, reduce to 180 F, and cook for 3 hours, until soft but whole.

bacon 4 oz bacon, Benton’s

Finely mince bacon and cook over low heat in a cast iron skillet till quite dark, but not burnt.

Reserve warm in a small bowl with 2 tablespoons of its fat.

sauce reserved garlic conf it reserved bacon + fat 28 blood orange supremes, peeled 1 tsp lemon juice

Slice garlic confit and fold gently into bacon + fat with blood orange segments and lemon juice.

Reserve warm.

seasoned mustard 8 tbsp whole butter, cut into cubes 4 tbsp coarse whole grain mustard 1 pinch Maldon sea salt ½ tsp f resh cracked black pepper 2 tsp pomegranate molasses

Brown butter to dark golden brown in a small pot. Strain into a small metal bowl. Stir in mustard, molasses, salt and pepper.

Reserve warm.

brussels 20 brussels sprouts 2 qts water salt

Core f resh brussels sprouts and reserve leaves. You will need 25 leaves per plate. There will be many cores left over, which are delicious when roasted.

Bring 2 quarts of heavily salted water to a boil. Place leaves in water for 20 seconds then remove to ice water.

Let chill. Drain and dry on a lint f ree towel.

Hold at room temperature.

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Chef Linton Hopkins | 4

flounder 4 ea 7 oz pieces of flounder 2 tbsp vegetable oil salt little knobs of butter

Heat vegetable oil in a large non-stick skillet. Salt both sides of fish and lay non-skinned side down. Cook over medium heat while adding little knobs of butter along side the fish edges as it cooks to a dark golden brown.

You will know that you are cooking at the right temperature as the butter will lightly brown and not blacken. Turn fish over when a brown crust has developed on the edges of each filet.

Be ready to plate immediately.

plate warm plates brussels sprout leaves panéed flounder f ilets bacon, garlic and blood orange sauce mustard brown butter toasted pecans

Place four preheated plates on the counter. Place fish filet in the center. Let brussels sprout leaves scatter across plate like leaves f rom a tree. Spoon bacon, garlic, and blood orange sauce over fish. Drizzle mustard brown butter over all the rest of the plates, being sure to dress the sprouts. Finely microplane toasted pecans over the whole dish.

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GRILLED OKRA yogurt. peanuts. mint. serves 4-6

yogurt 1 cup whole-milk greek yogurt 1 large clove garlic zest of one lemon juice of one lemon 1 tsp cumin, ground 1 tsp coriander, ground

In a medium bowl combine yogurt, cumin, coriander, red pepper flakes, and salt. Using a microplane, grate the garlic clove then sprinkle it and the lemon zest over the yogurt. Cut zested lemon in half. Juice over a small wire mesh strainer into the yogurt, to catch any seeds or pulp. Stir well to combine. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

1 tsp red pepper flakes, dried ½ tsp kosher salt okra 6 inch wooden skewers, soaked in water 1 lb f resh okra pods

Prepare the grill. Place natural charcoal and/or wood and light. Let flames flare up and die down before cooking on them. If using a gas grill, heat to medium-high. Prepare the remaining ingredients while the grill preheats.

Wash okra and place on a towel to dry. Arrange okra pods side by side on a work surface with all tips facing in the same direction.

Holding the pods in place with one hand, thread a skewer about ½ inch from the top of each pod, just below the cap of the okra, with your other hand.

Thread a second skewer about ½ inch from the bottom of each pod, just above the tapered tip, creating a row of secured pods that looks like an okra plank. Be sure to leave the ends of the skewer exposed an inch to prevent the pods from falling off. Repeat with more skewers and okra until all the pods are secured and planked.

grill okra planks 3 tbsp peanut oil kosher salt

Brush the okra planks on both sides with peanut oil; sprinkle evenly on both sides with kosher salt.

Place the okra planks on the hot grill. Cook until the pods begin to char slightly, about 2 minutes; flip and grill the okra on the opposite side about 2 minutes more.

Transfer the grilled okra to a platter to cool and then remove the skewers when cool enough to handle.

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Chef Steven Satterf ield | 5

plate ½ cup peanuts, roasted spiced yogurt 3 to 4 tbsp mint leaves, chopped

Place the yogurt in a serving bowl and top with peanuts and f resh mint. Place the individual grilled okra pods around the bowl. Serve warm or at room temperature.

charred okra

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Cheff Todd Richards | 6

CHICKEN WINGS jerk marinade. serves 4

marinade 16 chicken wings, jumbo 1 onion, medium 6 cloves garlic 3 scallions, medium 2 Scotch bonnet chiles 2 sour oranges 1 lemon 2 tbsp brown sugar 1 bunch thyme 2 sticks cinnamon

Coarsely chop onion, garlic, scallions, and scotch bonnets.

Quarter oranges and lemon. Smash allspice berries.

Coarsely grind black pepper. Freshly grate nutmeg.

Combine all ingredients, except chicken, in a large bowl and allow to come to room temperature, stirring occasionally.

Marinate chicken in the ref rigerator for 8 to 10 hours. If at room temperature, marinate for only 3 hours. Must be cooked the same day if marinated at room temperature.

1 tbsp f ive spice powder 1 tbsp allspice berries 1 tbsp black pepper 1 tsp nutmeg 2 tbsp kosher salt ½ cup maggi seasoning ½ cup worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp blended vegetable oil 4 cups pineapple juice 1 cup water wings blended vegetable oil salt black pepper

Heat grill to medium, approximately 325 F. Remove chicken f rom marinade and rub with oil. Season with additional salt and pepper. Place on the grill. Ensure even cooking by rotating, but do not move too much.

Some char brings out the flavor.

Remove orange and lemon quarters f rom marinade.

Grill alongside wings.

Cook until the wings’ internal temperature reaches 175 F or there is no red at the bone, about 12 minutes.

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APPLE MILLE-FEUILLE apple. cider. clabber cream. serves 8-10

apple 15-18 apples, medium, fuji, gala or honeycrisps 225 g (1 cup) butter 200 g (1 cup) sugar a couple of pinches kosher salt sugar for sprinkling

Peel and core apples. Thinly slice across the core (so you have ring-shaped slices), about 1/16 inch thick.

This step can be done with a very sharp knife by hand, or using a mandoline.

Preheat oven to 325 F. Combine butter, sugar, cider, and salt in a small saucepan and heat gently, just to melt the butter and dissolve the sugar.

Spray the inside of a loaf mold with non-stick spray.

Line the interior of the mold with a single piece of parchment paper that will come up both of the wide sides. Brush the bottom of the lined pan with a little butter. Arrange apple slices in a single layer in the bottom of the pan. Brush the apples with the butter, then sprinkle a thin layer (about a teaspoon) of sugar over the top. Continue to build layers of apple slices with the butter and sugar until all the apples are stacked about 5-6 in tall (they should rise well above the height of the mold). Be sure to brush the top of the apple stack with more melted butter.

Place the loaf mold onto a sheet pan. Now place a sheet of parchment paper over the top of the apples, and place another sheet pan on top. This top pan will help to press down the apples while baking. Wrap the entire thing in foil to hold all the moisture in while baking. Bake for 31/2 hours. Cool for 30 minutes.

Carefully remove foil and gently peel away the parchment paper f rom the apples. Your once tall apple stacks should have cooked down and shrunk to just under the height of the loaf mold. At this point, you can allow them to cool completely and store covered in the f ridge for up to 3 days.

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Chef Jen Yee | 7

reduction 6-8 apples, medium

Juice the apples. Should yield 2 cups of cider.

Place the cider in a wide saucepan and bring to a boil.

Lower the heat to simmer, and skim any foam coming to the surface. Allow to simmer until cider has reduced to just about ½-¾ cup.

The reduction should look syrupy and will thicken upon cooling. Cool completely and store covered in the f ridge for up to 1 week. cream

200 g (1 cup) cultured cream 20 g (4 tsp) powdered sugar 5 g (1 tsp) vanilla paste

Make sure cream and bowl are thoroughly chilled.

Whip everything together until thick and cream holds its shape. Store in ref rigerator until needed.

bake apple loaf

Preheat oven to 300 F. Unmold chilled apple loaf from the mold. Turn right side up onto the cutting board. Cut ¾ inch slices.

Place cut side up onto a parchment lined sheet pan.

Warm the slices in the oven for about 20 minutes. This will heat the apples through as well as help dehydrate the surface to expose all the layers.

Once apple slices are warm, turn on the broiler and allow slices to lightly brown on the surface, just a minute or two. Watch them!

plate warm apple mille fueille cider reduction whipped clabber cream

Warm your apple cider reduction in a small pot.

Carefully transfer mille feuille slices to serving plates.

Brush tops with the cider reduction to create a beautiful sheen and add moisture back to the apples.

Spoon some whipped clabber on the side to finish.

175

TORTELLONI butternut squash. spinach. guanciale. serves 4-6

filling pasta sheets 3 butternut squashes, medium sage rosemary ¼ lb butter, unsalted nutmeg salt white pepper 1 cup parmigiano reggiano

Peel and cut the butternut squash into 1 inch, or smaller, cubes. Roast cubes in a 325 F oven. Remove when soft and let sit for a moment.

The point is to cook and soften the squash to allow it to be worked into a smooth filling.

In a large pot over medium heat, cook the butter until the milk solids are golden to dark brown. Immediately add your hot squash to the pot and stir to slow the butter cooking.

Reduce heat to low to begin the dehydration process.

This will take time and is absolutely imperative to the outcome of the final product. In the world of pasta and the chapter of stuffed pasta, the dryer the better; if your filling is too wet and closer to a sauce, it will cause your pasta to explode in the water.

Season the squash with chopped sage and garlic toward the end of dehydration.

Add the seasoned squash mixture to a food processor and blend until smooth. Grate nutmeg into the processor and season with salt, white pepper, and parmigiano.

Cool the filling. You cannot stuff pasta with hot filling.

Cut your pasta sheeting into 21/2 inch squares.

Put filling into a piping bag. Pipe filling into the squares.

If it’s difficult to pipe, then good.

Make 5-6 tortelloni per person.

176

Chef Bruce Logue | 8

sauce ¼ lb spinach leaves ¼ lb guanciale 2 apples 1 red onion pickling spice

Brown the butter and set aside to cool.

Thinly slice guanciale and garlic and set aside.

Chop the apples and onion and set aside.

Toast and grind pickling spice. Set aside.

Pick sage leaves and set aside.

3 tbsp brown sugar 2 cloves garlic 3 sprigs sage 1 tbsp sherry vinegar 2 tbsp parmigiano reggiano 2 oz butter salt to taste black pepper to taste

In a sauté pan, over high heat, add the apples and red onion. When they begin to soften, add brown sugar, butter, salt, pepper, and pickling spice. Season to taste, keeping in mind that the guanciale will bring a fair amount of salt to the sauce. Once the browned butter has melted and coated the vegetables, kill the heat and set to the side.

In a separate sauté pan, over low heat, add the guanciale, garlic, and sage leaves. When the guanciale renders and begins to get crispy, remove f rom pan to a dry paper towel. Keep warm.

Add the whole spinach to rendered guanciale pan, then add the apple and red onion mix. Toss and stir until contents are well mixed.

Cook pasta until the outside is pillowy soft and the filling is hot. You can check the filling with a cake tester.

When the pasta is ready and the sauce is done, strain the pasta and add it to the sauce. Toss, toss, toss.

plating parmigiano reggiano

Place pasta on the plate first, then put the sauce over the top. Add the toasted garlic guanciale and sage.

Finish with a fine dusting of parmigiano reggiano.

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SCALLOP CRUDO miso black rice. candied thai chili ginger. basil oil. serves 3

forbidden rice 2 cups black forbidden rice 6 cups water 2 tbsp miso paste

Grind the forbidden rice and mix with water. Cover and soak for two days.

After soaking for two days, strain through a chinois, reserving the liquid and rice separately.

In a saucepan over medium heat, combine reserved liquid and miso paste and reduce by 1/3. Strain and set aside in an ice bath to cool down.

Take 4 cups of water with the 2 cups of soaked black rice.

Cook for 15 minutes. Puree till smooth (set aside to cool).

candy 3 tbsp water ½ cup candied ginger 2 red Thai chilis

Julienne candied ginger. Slice chilis on the bias.

Put candied ginger and thai chilis in a small saucepan with water on low heat, allowing the sugar f rom ginger and chili to dissolve and slowly candy again.

Remove f rom heat and set aside to cool.

basil oil 2 qts (8 cups) water 2 tbsp salt 1 qt (4 cups) basil leaves 2 qts (8 cups) grapeseed oil

Bring water and salt to a boil. Blanch basil in water until bright green. Immediately transfer to an ice bath.

Squeeze dry with a towel. Blend together the dry basil and grapeseed oil until basil is totally incorporated in oil and the pitcher is warm. Strain basil oil through a chinois, into a container.

scallops 5 scallops, u10 size

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Clean scallops and pat dry.

Horizontally slice each into 3 equal pieces.

Chef Carla Fears | 9

plate scallops black rice paste miso rice water candied Thai chili ginger basil oil red Thai chili green onion black sesame seeds lime zest cocoa butter flowers

Julienne the lime zest and green onion.

Use a 2 inch paint brush to brush black rice paste all the way across the plate with a sure, but not forced, pressure.

Arrange 5-6 scallop slices on each plate.

Gently pour miso/rice water into basin of the dish. Dot the basil oil on the surface of the black miso water.

Garnish with ginger, chilis, green onion, lime zest, black sesame seeds, and flowers.

Microplane cocoa butter over top.

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SHORT RIBS beef. zinfandel. thyme. serves 6-8

beef 1500 ml (11/2 qts) zinfandel 2 tbsp olive oil 8 beef short ribs 1 onion, large 2 stalks celery 1 carrot 3 shallots 6 cloves garlic 6 sprigs of thyme 2 qts chicken stock salt pepper veal demi-glace shallots thyme

Preheat oven to 350 F. Cut onion and celery to 1 inch dice. Cut carrot to ¾ inch dice. Cut shallots in half. Smash garlic.

Bring zinfandel to a boil in a large sauce pan. Lower heat and simmer until reduced by half.

Heat olive oil in a large heavy-bottom sauce or roasting pan. Season beef short ribs generously with salt and pepper. Brown ribs on all sides. Remove from heat and set aside.

Remove all but 1 tablespoon of oil from pan. Add vegetables, garlic and thyme. Cook until lightly browned.

Add short ribs back to pan. Add reduced wine and enough chicken stock to cover 1 inch above ribs. Bring to a simmer, cover, and place in preheated oven for 3 hours.

Remove f rom oven. Do not lift lid or uncover. Allow to cool. Place in ref rigerator and chil overnight.

The next day uncover and remove all fat. Remove short ribs, trim, and portion.

Reheat the liquid in a large pot. Strain and return to the pot. Reduce to a light sauce consistency. Add an equal amount of veal demi-glace.

Heat olive oil in a large heavy-bottom saucepan, briefly sweat the shallots, garlic, and thyme; do not cover. Add reduced cooking liquid and veal demi-glace.

When ready to serve, slowly heat short ribs in sauce.

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Chef Gerry Klaskala | 10

whip 1 lb russet potatoes 2 oz butter, soft 1 oz heavy cream, hot salt black pepper

Preheat oven to 300 F. Scrub and peel potatoes. Cut into large pieces. Boil potato until tender enough to mash easily. Drain. Dry in the oven until no more steam rises, 10-15 minutes.

While potatoes are still hot, purée through a food mill or ricer into a warm bowl. Add butter and whip in by hand, or in a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Add milk, cream, salt, and pepper. Whip until smooth and light.

roast 1 delicata squash, medium 12 young carrots olive oil salt pepper

Preheat oven to 400 F. Slice squash into ½ inch rings. Remove seeds and pulp.

Spread out on a sheet tray. Brush both sides with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.

Scrub and dry carrots. Cut in half diagonally. Spread carrot pieces out on a sheet tray. Brush with olive oil.

Season with salt and pepper.

Roast squash and carrots until nicely browned, about 15 minutes.

plate whipped potatoes short ribs roast vegetables veal demi-glace, warm

Spoon a quenelle of potato purée just off center of the plate. Rest a short rib on top. Arrange squash rings and carrots to the side. Drizzle demi-glace onto the short rib and underlying potatoes. Garnish with microgreens.

microgreens

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CHOCOLATE HAZELNUT BUDINO blood orange. dark chocolate. hazelnut. makes 24

inserts 1 kg (2.2 lbs) blood orange puree 1½ tbsp sugar 1½ tbsp powdered pectin 6 sheets silver gelatin

Bring blood orange puree to a simmer.

Combine sugar and pectin. Gradually stir into the puree.

Heat over medium until thickened. Remove f rom heat, stir in bloomed gelatin.

Cool over an ice bath before piping into 1 inch half-dome molds. Freeze.

cake 170 g (6 oz) TCHO 66% dark chocolate 85 g (3 oz) butter 170 g (6 oz) sugar 113 g (4 oz) hazelnut flour 3 eggs 85 g (3 oz) Angel’s Envy bourbon

Preheat oven to 325 F. Place chocolate and butter over bain marie, stirring until smooth. Remove from heat and reserve.

Stir together sugar and hazelnut flour until incorporated.

Whisk eggs and bourbon together until combined.

Add chocolate and mix until slightly homogenized. Add sugar and hazelnut flour in batches, until combined.

Spread batter on a parchment lined baking tray and bake for 12 minutes. Chill cake before cutting into 2½ inch rounds.

budino 450 g (16 oz) sugar 1 liter whole milk 226 g (8 oz) egg yolks 113 g (4 oz) eggs 85 g (3 oz) cornstarch 450 g (16 oz) TCHO 66% dark chocolate 340 g (12 oz) hazelnut paste 113 g (4 oz) butter

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Bring milk and 225 grams of sugar to a simmer.

Combine chocolate, praline paste, butter, vanilla, and salt in a mixing bowl and set aside.

Whisk together remaining 225 grams of sugar, cornstarch, and eggs.

Temper warm milk into egg mixture and return to heat, stirring until thickened nappe forms. Strain custard over chocolate and whisk to combine. Chill over an ice bath before using.

Chef Christopher Fraley | 11

mirror glaze 400 g (1.6 cups) water 650 g (23 oz) sugar 200 g (7 oz) cocoa powder 360 g (1.5 cup) heavy cream 16 sheets silver gelatin

Soften the gelatin in cold water.

Combine remaining ingredients in a saucepan over low heat, stirring f requently until warmed and smooth. Add softened gelatin, then strain mixture and cool to 85 F before use. rochere

500 g (17.6 oz) TCHO 66% chocolate 50 g (1.8 oz) cocoa butter

Melt chocolate and cocoa butter over bain marie. Coarsely grind hazelnuts and stir them in. Keep warm.

50 g (1.8 oz) coarse ground hazelnuts build Pipe budino base into desired 4 oz molds, filling 2/3 of each mold. Place 1 f rozen blood orange insert into center of each budino. Push inserts down until edges of budino base rise to meet edge of molds. Spread base over exposed inserts. Top each budino with precut hazelnut cake rounds. Freeze budino until firm and can be cleanly released from the molds.

Keep budino f rozen until ready to glaze. Place them on a wire rack over a plastic wrapped sheet tray, to catch excess glaze. Pour mirror glaze over f rozen entremets, and with a palette knife, wipe any excess f rom the top of the entremets, making sure all sides are evenly glazed.

Once glaze is firm to the touch, insert two cocktail skewers or a small pairing knife into top of entremets.

Dip each into hazelnut rochere. Place on parchment to allow custard to thaw.

Garnish with candied orange and hazelnuts.

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JAPCHAE vegetables. noodles. tofu. serves 6

knife work 1 lb shiitake mushrooms 2 medium carrots 1 lb bok choy 6 green onions 1 red bell pepper 1 block f irm tofu ¼ tsp salt 2 tbsp vegetable oil

Stem and slice mushrooms. Cut carrots into 2 ½ inch long matchsticks. Wash and trim bok choy. Cut green onions into 2 inch long slices. Cut bell pepper into 3 inch long julienne.

Dry tofu block and sprinkle with salt. Heat a large skillet over medium high. Add vegetable oil. Sear the tofu until golden brown. Remove f rom heat and set aside. Once cooled, cut into 1 inch cubes.

stir-f ry cut vegetables cut tofu 1 tbsp tamari 1 tbsp sugar salt black pepper 4 tbsp vegetable oil

Heat a large skillet over medium-high. Add 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil and stir-f ry carrots for 2 minutes, until slightly crunchy. Season with a pinch of salt and black pepper. Remove from heat and set aside.

In the same skillet over medium-high, add 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil. Stir-fry mushrooms for 4 minutes, until golden brown. Season with sugar and tamari. Remove f rom heat and set aside.

In the same skillet over medium-high, add 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil. Stir-fry bok choy for 2 minutes, until slightly wilted but still crunchy. Season with ½ teaspoon of salt and a pinch of black pepper. Remove from heat and set aside. noodles

300g sweet potato noodles, dried 3 qts water 2 tbsp tamari 2 tbsp sugar 1 tsp salt 2 tbsp vegetable oil

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Soak noodles in hot water from the tap.

In a large pot, salt the water and bring to a boil. Cook the soaked noodles for 2 minutes, until slightly crunchy.

Drain in a colander.

Immediately heat a large skillet over medium-high. Add vegetable oil. Stir-fry the drained noodles for 2 minutes.

Season with tamari and sugar. Remove f rom heat and set aside until cool enough to handle.

Chef Jiyeon Lee | 12

plate noodles carrots bok choy green onions red bell peppers tofu

In a large bowl, combine noodles and vegetables. Season with sesame oil, sugar, and tamari. Mix well.

Arrange noodles and vegetables in large bowls. Top with tofu cubes. Garnish with toasted sesame seeds. Serve at room temperature.

3 tbsp sesame oil 3 tbsp sugar 2 tbsp tamari 1 tbsp sesame seeds

185

CRÊPE comté. sorghum. pistachio. serves 4

béchamel 3 tbsp butter, unsalted ¼ cup onion ¼ cup ap flour ½ tsp coarse salt 4 cups whole milk 3 cups comté

Finely chop onion.

In a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium heat.

Add onion and cook until softened, about 6 minutes.

(No color on onion.) Add flour and salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until mixture is pale golden, has a slight nutty aroma, and is the texture of wet sand, about 5 minutes.

Whisking constantly, pour in 2 cups milk. Add 2 more cups milk and whisk until smooth. Cook until boiling, stirring constantly along the bottom of pan, about 7 minutes.

Reduce heat to low. Simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until sauce thickens and does not feel grainy when a very small amount is rubbed between two fingers, about 10 minutes.

Stir in 3 cups of comté until completely melted.

crêpe 1 cup ap flour ¼ tsp kosher salt ¼ tsp black pepper 4 large eggs ¾ cup milk ¾ cup heavy cream 2 tbsp chives

Combine all ingredients except chives in a blender.

Blend until smooth. Let sit overnight.

When batter has rested, add chives.

Heat a small, non-stick sauté pan. Add a small amount of batter to form a thin layer in pan. Cook like pancakes.

Flip when batter is set.

vinaigrette 3 lbs carrots 2 tbsp sorghum syrup ¼ cup sherry vinegar 1 tsp salt 1 tsp pepper ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 3 tbsp pistachio oil 1 tbsp lemon juice

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Juice the carrots. Yield should be 3 cups. In a small sauce pot, reduce juice by half. Chill. In a blender, add all ingredients except oil. On low setting, slowly add oils to emulsify vinaigrette.

Chef Jeb Aldrich | 13

plate crêpe béchamel vinaigrette cooked carrots shaved beets popped sorghum microgreens

Lay crêpe flat on plate. Pour a small amount of bechamel in the center and fold over. Drizzle with vinaigrette.

Garnish with cooked carrots, beets, sorghum, and microgreens.

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Chef Jason Liang | 14

YELLOWTAIL SASHIMI jalapeño. cucumber. ponzu. serves 1

salsa 1.5 oz onion 1 oz shallots 1.5 oz jalapeño 2 tbsp tamari ¾ cup Japanese grain/rice vinegar

Chop onion and shallots. Seed jalapeño and cut to small dice. Grate ginger.

Mix all ingredients together in a bowl, bruising to encourage maceration.

2 tbsp grapeseed oil ½ tsp chili oil ½ tsp sea salt ½ tsp chili garlic sauce ½ tsp ginger 1 oz cilantro ¾ cup japanese grain/rice vinegar 1 cup vegetable oil ½ cup sugar

ponzu Combine all ingredients in a blender, except for vegetable oil. While blending, slowly add vegetable oil to emulsify, 2 minutes.

1 tsp salt 1 tsp black pepper 8 oz gochujang 2.4 oz garlic 2 cups ponzu sauce 1 cucumber, small 1 tbsp mirin ¼ tsp salt

cucumber Thinly slice cucumber on a mandoline. Add mirin, salt, and sesame oil. Massage with fingers. Cure for at least 30 minutes.

1 tsp sesame oil plate 3 oz yellowtail 2 tbsp salsa 1.5 oz cured cucumber 3 half moon slices pickled daikon 9 slices radish 3 slices watermelon radish 1 oz chili ponzu

Thinly slice yellowtail into 6 pieces. Shingle slices in a straight line across the dish, just off from center. Top with a thin line of jalapeño cilantro salsa.

Arrange cured cucumber in a half circle coming off of the yellowtail.

Shingle radishes in a larger half circle around cucumbers, finishing the line with watermelon radish and pickled daikon on opposite sides.

Pour chili ponzu into a dipping ramekin or in between yellowtail and cucumbers.

189

FARMHOUSE FRIED CHICKEN white oak pastures. romanesco. mac ‘n’ cheese. serves 6

marinade 6 chicken breasts, bone in and skin on, from White Oak Pastures 3 cups kosher salt ½ gal buttermilk, whole fat 2 tbsp hot sauce, Texas Pete salt black pepper

Place the chicken breasts in a metal bowl and cover in kosher salt. Allow to sit for 15 minutes.

Under running cold water, scrub the chicken with the salt and rinse off. Pat dry.

Place the buttermilk in a sealable container. Add hot sauce, salt and pepper. Add the chicken. Marinate overnight in the refrigerator. fry

5 eggs 1 tbsp hot sauce, Texas Pete 12 cups all-purpose flour, organic 2 tbsp kosher salt 2 tbsp black pepper, f resh ground 2 tbsp garlic powder 2 tbsp onion powder 2 tsp aleppo pepper, ground 12 cups manteca

In a medium mixing bowl, whisk eggs and hot sauce.

Season with salt and pepper.

In a large mixing bowl, sift the flour, black pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, aleppo pepper, and salt until homogenized.

Preheat oven to 375 F. Remove chicken f rom the buttermilk, letting any excess buttermilk drip off. Dredge in the flour mixture, then lightly shake. Dip into the egg mixture and let excess drip off. Dredge once more in the flour mixture. Set aside on a sheet pan and allow to rest for 15 minutes.

In a large cast iron skillet, heat lard to 345 F. Gently place chicken into the skillet, skin side down. Fry on both sides until golden brown. Remove to a sheet pan.

Once all breasts are f ried, place the sheet pan into the oven. Cook until chicken reaches 165 F internal temperature. vegetables

1 lb tri-colored carrots, organic and washed 1 lb romanesco florets 4 oz olive oil 4 tbsp ras el hanout sea salt black pepper 190

Preheat oven to 375 F. Place all ingredients into a large bowl and mix until seasoning is evenly distributed. Place on a sheet pan and into the oven for 20 minutes or until vegetables are slightly brown. Toss in oil from the pan before serving.

Chef Nicolas Bour | 15

mac ‘n’ cheese 2 lbs penne pasta 1 lb sharp cheddar 1 lb Thomasville Tomme 1 vidalia onion 2 tbsp flat parsley leaves 4 eggs 1 qt heavy cream salt black pepper 2 tsp nutmeg 2 tsp Texas Pete hot sauce 1 tbsp worcestershire sauce 1 cup panko breadcrumbs

Preheat oven to 350 F. Grease a 9 x 13 inch casserole dish. Pyrex works best.

Cook the penne according to instructions on the package. Strain and lay out on a sheet pan to cool. Do not rinse.

Shred the cheddar.

Cut the tomme into large dice.

Grate the onion with a box grater.

Chop the parsley leaves.

In a large mixing bowl, whip the eggs and cream together until smooth. Season with salt, pepper, and f reshly grated nutmeg. Add the hot sauce, onion, parsley, worcestershire, and ½ of each cheese to the cream and egg mixture. Mix with a spoon to blend all ingredients.

Mix the panko and remainder of the cheeses together and set aside.

Toss cooked pasta in the cream mixture. Rest for 10 minutes, letting noodles fill with as much mixture as possible. Transfer into the casserole dish. Top with cheese and panko mixture. Cover with foil and bake for 20 minutes. Uncover and return to the oven. Bake until the cheese is golden brown. Cool for 15 minutes. Cut into single portion squares.

191

FUFU GNUDI maafe sauce. serves 6

ricotta gnudi 350 g (12.3 oz) ricotta 150 g (5.3 oz) plantains, semi-ripe 2 egg yolks 70 g (2.5 oz) parmigiano 40 g (1.4 oz) double zero flour 40 g (1.4 oz) cassava flour 10 g (1tsp) salt 4 cups semolina

Hang ricotta in cheese cloth for 24 hours. Puree the plantains. Hang in cheese cloth for 24 hours.

Combine all ingredients in a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Mix on medium speed for 30 seconds, until incorporated. Scrape down sides of the bowl. Continue to mix until a dough forms. Do not overmix.

Place enough semolina flour in a hotel pan to cover the bottom by ½ inch. You can reuse this flour by sifting it through a chinois.

Weigh out 40 gram portions of dough. Roll and place onto the bed of semolina. Makes 30 gnudi.

Dust the tops of the gnudi with semolina. Roll in your hands to form an even coating. Rest gnudi in the fridge, uncovered, overnight.

Recoat and roll the gnudi.

Bring a pot of water to a boil. Salt the water. It should taste like the ocean. Poach gnudi until they float. Set aside.

maafe sauce 151 g (5.3 oz) oil 453.6 g (16 oz) chicken 12.5 g (2.5 tsp) smoked paprika 6.25 g (1 1/4 tsp) white pepper 907.2 g (32 oz) f resh tomatoes 400 g (12 oz) medium onion 200 g (7 oz) garlic cloves 75 g (2.6 oz) parsley 25 g (5 tsp) marjoram 300 g (10.6 oz) peanuts, ground 1680 g (6.7 cups) chicken stock 1 sweet potato 5 g (1 tsp) scotch bonnet 80 g (5 tbsp) uda powder 400 g (1.5 cups) palm wine salt to taste pepper to taste 192

Chop tomatoes. Chop onion. Dice sweet potato.

In a mixing bowl, season meat with salt and uda. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Sear chicken until brown on all sides. Remove from pan and set aside.

Reduce heat.

Add onions and garlic to pan. Sauté until fragrant, then add in scotch bonnet, smoked paprika, white pepper, marjoram, and chunks of tomatoes. Deglaze with palm wine. Reduce for two minutes.

Add chicken and stock to pan. Bring to a simmer. Reduce by half.

Remove chicken and a quart of broth. Allow chicken to cool in the broth.

Pass the remainder of the broth through a chinois lined with cheesecloth. Set aside.

Chef Cleophus Hethington | 16

plate poached gnudi maafe sauce plantain chips

Spoon maafe sauce into center of dish. Arrange 5 gnudi atop the sauce. Garnish with plantain chips, f ried cassava, chive flowers, and micro herbs.

f ried cassava chive flowers micro herbs

193

KUROBUTA PORK T-BONE turnpike grits. crispy brussels. peach sambal. serves 4

brine 4 lbs 10 oz pork porterhouse steaks, Riverview Farm 1 cup peach juice or cider (cold) 2 cups hot water 2 cups iced water 5 bay leaves

Stir bay leaves, salt, and peppercorns into hot water. Add peach cider and iced water to cool liquid down to at least 40 F. Place pork in an airtight container and pour enough liquid over top to cover. Let sit overnight, or at least 4 hours.

1 tbsp black peppercorns 41 g (2 tbsp + 2 tsp) salt ½ lb hot peppers, local 1 lb peaches, local 1 cup sugar 2 tbsp salt 1 head garlic 3 shallots 1 cup rice wine vinegar

peach sambal Stem hot peppers and cut into 1-2 inch pieces. Pit peaches and cut to 1-2 inch dice. Peel garlic. Slice shallots.

In a pot, combine all ingredients, except vinegar and fish sauce. Add a small amount of water if needed. Simmer for 1-2 hours, until it is all very soft. Let cool. Puree in a blender or with an immersion mixer until desired consistency. Add vinegar and fish sauce.

1 tbsp fish sauce (optional) grits 2 cups grits, Logan Turnpike 6 cups water 8 oz butter, Banner kosher salt pepper

Soak grits overnight.

Bring salted water to a boil. Whisk in soaked grits and cook, stirring occasionally, until thick and grit pieces can be crushed easily with the back of a spoon. Remove f rom heat and blend with an immersion blender. Whisk in butter. Add black pepper and more salt to taste.

crispy brussels 2 lbs brussels sprouts olive oil salt black pepper

Preheat oven to 400 F. Toss brussels sprouts with a couple teaspoons of olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast for 5 min.

Remove from oven and cool completely. When ready to serve, return brussels sprouts to the oven at 450 F for 5-10 minutes, until crispy.

Alternatively you can f ry or place into a grill safe pan and roast with the mushrooms.

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Chef Thomas McKeown | 17

t-bone t-bones, brined olive oil applewood chips soaked in water salt pepper

Preheat grill. Wrap soaked chips in foil and pierce the top of foil pouch, place on grill.

While waiting for the chips to start smoking, remove pork f rom brine and pat dry. Lightly oil the outside. Very lightly season pork with salt and pepper. Place onto a lightly oiled grill. Cook to desired doneness. Medium is recommended, 140 F internal temperature. Rest for 5-10 minutes before serving.

smoked mushroom jus 2 lbs mixed mushrooms, Fungo Farms olive oil 3 cloves garlic 1 shallot 2 sprigs thyme 1 tsp Cajun spice (or Old Bay) white wine

Slice mushrooms to ½ inch width. Chop garlic. Mince shallot. Toss together with olive oil, thyme, and cajun spice. Place in a grill safe pan.

Once wood chips are smoking, place pan on the grill and close. Smoke for 10 minutes. Open grill and pour white wine over mushrooms. Move to a cooler area of the grill.

Reduce wine by at least half. Add vegetable broth if needed to keep mushrooms from going dry.

plate grits t-bones mushrooms and smoked jus brussels sprouts

Place pork t-bone on top of grits and spoon mushroom mixture over the top. Arrange brussels sprouts around pork and serve with a few small dots of peach sambal sauce.

peach sambal

195

DUCK eucalyptus. pumpkin. tulip poplar. serves 2-3

brine 12 oz duck breast, Caribe United Farm 4 oz honey, Rossberry Farm 6 oz apple cider vinegar 1 oz salt 3 branches eucalyptus, Caribe United Farm 8 oz ice

1 musquee de provence pumpkin 1 medium nub of ginger, Aluma Farm 2 heads garlic, Mena’s Farm 4 oz sunflower seed oil, Oliver Farms salt

Combine all ingredients, except the duck, in a pot and bring to a boil. Boil for a few minutes, then remove from heat and add ice to quickly cool the mixture.

Submerge duck breast in cooled brining liquid and set aside for at least 2 hours.

pumpkin pureé Preheat oven to 425 F. Roast the pumpkin, whole, for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Use a fork to check for tenderness.

Peel your ginger (about ½ cup) and clean the garlic so the cloves are peeled and handy. Rough chop the ginger and set aside. Set aside half of the garlic cloves.

Combine half of the garlic in a small pot with the sunflower seed oil. Bring to a quick boil, allow to simmer for 1 minute, then remove from the heat and allow to cool.

In a blender, combine chopped ginger and raw and confit garlic, and blend until smooth. Then add 16 ounces of roasted pumpkin and blend until smooth. Season with salt to taste.

fire brined duck breast 2 logs tulip poplar, Trippin’ Root Workshop

Prepare your duck with butcher’s twine or a meat hook to be hung above the grill.

Load the grill with tulip poplar wood. Hang the duck breasts high enough above the grill to be just out of reach of the initial blaze of flames, so that as the fire calms, they will be directly in the line of smoke.

Bring the logs to a full blaze and then let them cool to smoking coals. Allow the duck to hang in the smoke for about 20 minutes.

When the duck breast is golden brown from the smoke, untie it and return the fire to a medium low flame.

Directly on the grate, grill the duck breast for about 2.5 minutes on each side, until they are medium and tender.

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Chef Maricela Vega | 18

chard 6 leaves swiss chard, Pinewood Springs Farm 1 lemon 2 oz sunflower seed oil salt

Slice chard leaves lengthwise, about 4 slices per leaf.

Preserve the natural beauty.

Quickly, over high heat, sauté the chard with sunflower seed oil and salt to taste. Finish with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. This should not take longer than 2 minutes.

If the flames f rom the grill are still available, consider grilling some leaves for extra texture and balance.

plate

smoked and grilled duck breast pureed pumpkin sautéed chard

Dollop some pureé into the center of the dish and spread into a neat circle, leaving some exterior space. Pile chard neatly onto one side and top with sliced duck breast.

Drizzle pumpkin seed oil around each plate.

pumpkin seed oil

197

PRIME PORTERHOUSE sage. thyme. brown butter. serves 2

salt ¼ cup kosher salt 3 tbsp black pepper 6 cloves garlic 8 sage leaves 1/4 bunch parsley

Preheat oven to 200 F. Chop sage and parsley.

In a food processor, combine salt, f reshly ground pepper, garlic, sage, and parsley. Blend until smooth and all herbs and garlic are incorporated.

Spread evenly on a sheet tray. Bake for 30 minutes, or until dry. Transfer back into the food processor. Pulse for 30 seconds.

Reserve in a tightly sealed container. Steak salt keeps for two months.

steak 28 oz prime porterhouse 1 1/2 tbsp steak salt

Gently bring porterhouse to room temperature.

Prepare a grill on high heat. Season porterhouse generously with steak salt. Place on the grill and char to desired color.

Turn porterhouse over and char the opposite side.

Transfer to indirect heat and roast until internal temperature reaches 118 F (for medium-rare). Let rest for 5 minutes before slicing.

corn 5 ears corn 6 cloves garlic 2 tbsp scallions 1 1/2 cups heavy cream 4 oz gouda cheese 2 tsp kosher salt 1 tsp black pepper

Chop garlic and scallions. Grate gouda cheese. Remove corn kernels from the cobb.

Place corn kernels in a dry cast iron skillet and toast over high heat to semi burn the corn, approximately 3-5 minutes.

Put cream into a small sauce pot with chopped garlic.

Bring to a boil. Slow to a simmer and cook for 1 minute.

Add charred corn, gouda, scallions, salt, and freshly ground pepper. Simmer together for 1 minute.

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Chef Kevin Rathbun | 19

plate prime porterhouse creamed corn green onion 3 sprigs parsley 2 oz butter, salted 6 sprigs thyme

Slice the porterhouse and arrange pieces back in their place along the bone.

In a small sauté pan, heat butter and thyme for 3-4 minutes, until the butter is browned. Once browned, immediately pour over the sliced steak.

Garnish corn with thinly sliced green onion. Arrange parsley next to the steak.

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Chef Zeb Stevenson | 20

SUGAR CREAM PIE milk. sugar. nostalgia. makes one large tarte

pate sucree 250 g (8.8 oz) ap flour 75 g (5 tbsp) sugar 100 g (3.5 oz) butter, cold 1 egg 1/8 cup cold water ¼ tsp salt

Preheat oven to 325 F. In a food processor, combine flour, salt, sugar, and butter.

Process to a sandy consistency. Turn out into a bowl. Add egg and water. Mix until gathered. Then knead by hand for 7 turns. Wrap in parchment. Rest in a cool spot for 30 minutes before rolling.

Roll the dough on a floured surface. Rest on parchment in the cooler before baking.

Blind bake for 12 minutes. Rotate and bake 6 minutes more.

filling 2 cups sugar 4 ½ cups milk, divided 1 cup butter 1 vanilla bean ¼ tsp salt ¾ cup cornstarch 3 nutmeg gratings

Preheat oven to 325 F. In a sauce pot, combine sugar, half of milk, butter, vanilla bean, and salt. Heat until butter is melted.

In a separate bowl, whisk cornstarch and remaining milk together to form a slurry.

Whisk cornstarch slurry into the sauce pot. Bring to a boil.

Reduce to a simmer right away. SImmer for 10 minutes.

Strain through a fine chinois into the baked shell.

Bake for 15 minutes. Do not ref rigerate.

Garnish with f reshly grated nutmeg.

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KITFO kibbe. aybe. gomen. serves 4

kibbe 1 lb butter, unsalted 1 tsp turmeric 2 cups koseret 1 cup korarima 1 tsp salt 1 head garlic

Add everything into a pot and simmer over low heat for 45 minutes. Skim off the foamy milk solids that rise to the top.

Remove f rom heat, strain out the milk solids, and transfer butterfat into an airtight container for storing.

aybe 32 oz buttermilk cheese cloth

Boil the buttermilk over low heat for 15 or 20 minutes, until the liquid separates f rom the soft white curds.

Gently pour off the whey. Strain the curds through cheese cloth, over a bowl.

Allow to cool to room temp before serving.

gomen 1 lb collards 2 tbsp kibbe 1 tsp mitmita powder ½ tsp salt

Wash and trim the collards. Boil until soft, about 25 minutes. Drain and chop very fine.

In a skillet over medium heat, mix collards, kibbe, mitmita, and salt. Taste and adjust seasoning accordingly.

kitfo 1 lb rib eye 7 tbsp kibbe 2 tsp mitmita powder 2 tsp korarima powder 1 tsp sea salt

Finely mince the rib eye.

In a skillet over low heat, melt the kibbe. Once melted, add meat and seasonings. Mix thoroughly. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Serve gently warmed slightly above room temperature.

The rib eye should be raw.

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Chef Yohana Solomon | 21

plating injera mitmita powder

Place everything into a wide bowl or vessel, something big enough that multiple people can eat from it at once.

Keep each component in one respective spot of the vessel. Do not mix everything together.

Serve with injera and a dish of mitmita powder, to add spice as desired.

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Chef Terry Koval | 22

POMPANO burnt lemon. caper. anchovy. serves 2

vinaigrette 1 cup Cerignola green olives 1 tbsp capers 2 shallots 3 cloves garlic 7 anchovies 1 lemon

Pit and thinly slice the olives. Cut shallots into small dice. Mince garlic cloves. Chop anchovies. Zest and juice lemon. Chop parsley.

Place all ingredients into a medium size bowl. Whisk until combined

6 sprigs flat leaf Italian parsley ½ cup champagne vinegar ½ cup EVOO cracked black pepper to taste fish 3 lb pompano, whole 1 lemon 2 oz EVOO 1 tbsp sea salt cracked black pepper to taste kiln dried hickory and oak f irewood

Using natural hardwoods, heat your hearth oven (or grill) to 450 F. (If using a grill, make sure the grates are very clean. Using a clean towel, oil the grate once it is at temp.)

First, remove any scales that might be on the fish. With a pair of kitchen shears, remove the gills. Make sure the fish is properly gutted.

With a filet knife, score the top of the fish diagonally to create diamonds. Each cut should be about an inch apart. Drizzle with olive oil, then season with sea salt and f resh cracked pepper.

Oil a small baking sheet and place the fish, scored side up. Cut the lemon in half and place pieces on the tray next to the pompano but not touching it. Place baking sheet into the hearth right next to the fire. Roast for 1014 minutes.​

plating cilantro leaves microgreens

Let fish cool for a moment and then place onto a board.

Arrange burnt lemon halves next to pompano. Spoon vinaigrette overtop of fish. Garnish with cilantro leaves and microgreens.

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Chef Gerry Garvin | 23

BOUILLABAISSE saff ron. ocean. serves 4

potatoes 4 cup water 2 tsp saff ron 4 potatoes, medium

Start by putting 4 cups of water into a container. Add the saff ron and leave it to infuse while preparing the potatoes.

Peel and tournée the potatoes, placing them into the saffron water after finishing each one, to keep them f rom browning.

Transfer water and potatoes into a small pot. Bring to a low rolling boil and cook for 7–8 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

seafood prep 8 oz king crab legs 1 lobster tail 6 oz sea bass 6 oz salmon 1 tbsp olive oil 9 black mussels 9 clams 6 shrimp, jumbo, peeled, and deveined 2 tbsp garlic, smashed 2 tsp kosher salt 2 tsp black pepper 2 cups tomato sauce 2 cups vegetable stock

Cut the sea bass and salmon into 3 ounce portions and set aside. Keep cool.

Cut the crab legs between the joints.

Use kitchen shears to cut along the lighter colored underside of the lobster shell and remove shell from the meat. Cut the lobster meat into 2 inch pieces, and set aside. Keep cool.

Soak the clams in cold, f resh water for 20 minutes. Dry on a clean towel.

Scrub the mussels under cold, running water. Dry on a clean towel.

2 shallots, sliced 1 cup white wine

cook In a large sauté pan, heat olive oil over medium heat.

Once oil is shimmering, sear the salmon and sea bass for 3 minutes, on only one side, until evenly browned.

Remove and set aside.

In the same pan, add the mussels and clams. Cook until they start to open. Add garlic, shallot, salt and pepper.

Sauté for 45 seconds, then add the white wine. Sauté for 3 minutes, then add the stock and tomato sauce.

Simmer for 3 minutes on low heat.

Add the crab, sea bass, salmon, and potatoes to the pan.

Then add the shrimp and lobster. Simmer on low heat for an additional 5 minutes. Do not stir.

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Chef Chrysta Poulos | 24

SUNDAY BISCUITS table bread. makes 24

biscuits 21/2 lbs ap flour 1 oz salt 41/2 oz sugar 3 oz baking powder 1 lb butter 1 qt (4 cups) buttermilk

Freeze butter. Shred with a box grater. Return to the f reezer so that it ref reezes.

Preheat oven to 375 F. Whisk together dry ingredients. Add f rozen shredded butter to dry mix. Incorporate thoroughly using fingertips to work flour into butter shreds. Add the buttermilk and mix until just combined. The dough will be fairly stiff.

On a floured surface, roll out the dough into a square.

Sprinkle with a little water. You can use a spray bottle filled with water, if you have one.

Fold one half the square over on top of the other half.

Rotate the dough so that the open end of a “book” fold is facing you. Do another fold. Roll out to about 1” thick.

Using a ring/round cutter dipped in flour, cut and portion biscuits. Place onto a sheet tray lined with parchment paper.

Be sure to dip your cutter in flour in between each and every cut. When cutting, be sure to press straight down.

Do not turn the cutter as you press down.

Brush the biscuit tops with buttermilk. Bake until golden brown. Rotate sheet tray halfway through baking.

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SPAGHETTI sicilian pork ragu. prawns. chili. bottarga. serves 4

ragu 2 ½ lbs pork ribs ½ onion ¼ cup garlic cloves 24 oz San Marzano tomatoes ¼ tsp chili flakes 1 bay leaf 1 qt (4 cups) chicken broth 1/8 cup red wine canola oil salt pepper

Smash garlic cloves. Rough chop the onion.

Heat a large pot. Add enough canola oil to coat the bottom. Add the onion. Season with salt and caramelize.

Add garlic, chili flakes, and bay leaves. Toast for only a couple of minutes. Stir to prevent the garlic from burning.

Add the tomatoes and cook for about 3 minutes. Deglaze with red wine and let reduce by half. Add the chicken broth and cook for 1 hour to bring all the flavors out.

Separately, season ribs with salt and pepper.

Heat a large, shallow pot and add oil to coat the bottom up to a depth of a quarter inch. Sear ribs in pairs so as not to overcrowd the pan.

Place seared ribs into a roasting pan. Add hot braising liquid, fully covering the ribs. Cover with foil.

Cook for 2 hours at 350 F. Allow ribs to cool in their own liquid overnight.

Remove meat from braising liquid and pull apart. Return to braising liquid and simmer until all ingredients come together in a cohesive sauce or ragu.

spaghetti 1 lb spaghetti ragu 1 tbsp unsalted butter water salt

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt until you can taste it, but not until salty.

Add spaghetti and cook 2 minutes less than directions on the box.

In a large sauté pan, heat ragu with butter. Add a splash of pasta water if it seems too tight. Once cooked, add pasta, reserving the water. Cook for two minutes, until pasta sticks to the sauce and vice versa.

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Chef Craig Richards | 25

prawns 8 prawns, large ½ lemon canola oil salt pepper

Season prawns with salt and pepper.

Heat a large sauté pan. Add enough canola oil to just coat the bottom. Once it starts smoking, sear prawns, 1 minute on each side, until crispy and cooked through.

Remove f rom heat and dress with lemon juice.

plate spaghetti with ragu seared prawns bottarga chili flakes

Place spaghetti with ragu into a large bowl. Top with two prawns.

Garnish with grated bottarga and chili flakes.

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PAVLOVA mexican chocolate. mole cherries. serves 4

pavlova 4 egg whites 1 ¼ cups sugar 1 tsp vanilla paste 1 tsp lemon juice 2 tsp cornstarch

Preheat oven to 300 F. Whip whites until stiff but not dry. Add sugar gradually.

Whip until thick and glossy. Gently fold in vanilla, lemon juice, and cornstarch.

Spoon or pipe pavlovas onto a lined baking sheet. Bake for 40 minutes.

cinnamon cream 2 cups heavy cream 4 oz powdered sugar

Whip the heavy cream, powdered sugar, and cinnamon to medium peaks. Set aside in the ref rigerator.

2 tbsp cinnamon powder diplomat cream ¾ cup sugar ¼ cup cornstarch 3 cups half ‘n’ half 1 tbsp vanilla paste 8 egg yolks 1 oz butter 3 oz dark Mexican chocolate

Sift sugar and cornstarch together into a heavy bottomed pot. Slowly add half ‘n’ half and vanilla paste. Heat to steaming, whisking constantly as to not scorch the bottom.

Temper yolks. Return to the pot and cook over mediumhigh heat until thick. Whisk constantly! Remove from heat and stir in butter and chocolate. Pour into a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and place over an ice bath.

When the chocolate diplomat cream has set (2 hours minimum), gently fold in the cinnamon whipped cream.

mole cherries 4 cups cherries 1 cup sugar 1 tbsp vanilla paste 1 tsp ginger, f reshly grated 1 tsp ancho chilli powder 1 tsp cinnamon ½ tsp cayenne pepper ½ tsp nutmeg zest of one orange 1 tbsp and 1 tsp cornstarch

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Pit and stem the cherries.

Put everything except cornstarch into a heavy bottomed pot. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar is dissolved and cherries have rendered their juice.

Remove ¼ cup of cherry juice and whisk into cornstarch.

Add cornstarch mixture back into the pot and cook over medium heat until sauce is thickened.

Chef Kristen Belan | 26

plate pavlovas chocolate diplomat cream mole cherries candied orange peel Mexican dark chocolate

Place pavlova onto the plate. Spoon chocolate diplomat cream into it. Top with mole cherries. Garnish with diced candied orange peel and shaved chocolate.

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SPATCHCOCK CHICKEN citrus. herbs. char. serves 2-3

marinade 4 ½ lbs whole chicken 2 cups water 1 orange 2 lemons 1 lime 4 cloves garlic ½ tsp oregano leaves 5 basil leaves ½ bunch parsley ½ bunch culantro 1 tsp thyme leaves 1 tbsp kosher salt 1 tsp dark brown sugar

Rinse the chicken with the juice of 1 lemon and pat dry.

Place chicken, breast side down, on a cutting board.

Using poultry shears/scissors, cut along both sides of backbone, and remove the backbone. (Discard or reserve for stock.) Turn chicken breast side up and open the underside like a book. Using the heel of your hand, press firmly against the breastbone until it cracks. Set chicken aside.

Roughly chop the basil, parsley, and culantro and place in a large mixing bowl. Zest and juice the orange, lemon, and lime into the bowl. Mince the garlic and add to the bowl along with the oregano, thyme, water, brown sugar, and salt. Stir to incorporate all ingredients.

Submerge chicken in the marinade, cover the bowl, and refrigerate for 24 hours.

grill seasoning 4 cloves garlic 5 basil leaves ½ bunch culantro ½ red onion 1/3 cup olive oil 1 tsp kosher salt 1 tsp black pepper

Heat your grill to medium-high.

Blend all of the ingredients until the mixture is smooth.

Remove chicken f rom the brine and pour seasoning over the chicken.

Place the chicken on the grill, skin side down (breast on the grill), and cook for 10-12 minutes.

Turn the chicken over and continue to cook until the chicken reaches 165 F internal temperature.

chimi 4 cloves garlic 5 basil leaves ½ bunch culantro ½ red onion 1/3 cup olive oil 1 tsp kosher salt 1 tsp black pepper

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Put all ingredients into a blender and blend until smooth.

Reserve half for after vegetables are grilled.

Toss the vegetables in the other half before grilling.

Chef Samone Lett | 27

vegetables 1 lb carrots, small 1 zucchini 1 red onion 1 red bell pepper 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp kosher salt 1 tbsp black pepper

Prepare the grill with clean grates and preheat to medium, 350 F to 450 F. Cut zucchini into thick slices, 4 inches long. Seed the red bell pepper and cut into thick slices. Cut carrots in half lengthwise, then in half crosswise. Cut onion into ½ inch thick slices.

Place all vegetables into a large bowl and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add reserved chimi and toss to coat evenly.

Grill the vegetables with the lid closed until tender and lightly charred, about 7 to 10 minutes for the red peppers, onion, and carrots, and 5 minutes for the zucchini.

Once all vegetables are lightly charred, return to the large bowl and toss with the remaining chimi.

plate chimi culantro leaves cilantro leaves carrot greens

Break down chicken into its respective parts - wing, thigh, breast, etc., and arrange on a large plate or board.

Arrange grilled vegetables around the chicken. Garnish with extra vinaigrette, cilantro, torn culantro, and torn carrot greens.

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Chef Stacey Eames | 28

SOUTHERN FRENCH TOAST challah. brown sugar. f rench cream. serves 4

batter 2 eggs 14 g (1 tbsp) sugar ¼ tbsp cinnamon

In a medium sized bowl, whisk the eggs thoroughly.

Whisk in the sugar, cinnamon, and vanilla. Add milk and whisk until mixture is fully incorporated.

1 tsp vanilla extract 236 ml (1 cup) whole milk 227 g (8 oz) butter 454 g (16 oz) brown sugar 158 ml (2/3 cup) water

brown sugar butter In a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium heat.

When butter is fully melted, whisk in brown sugar and water. Continue heating and whisking until sugar is fully dissolved and the mixture is smooth.

Bring to a boil. Then cut off the heat and allow to cool to room temperature. Store in an airtight container. Do not refrigerate.

f rench cream 132 g (4.7 oz) cream cheese 42 g (1.5 oz) powdered sugar 158 ml (2/3 cup) half ‘n’ half

Allow cream cheese to warm to room temperature.

Combine all ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. Store in an airtight container. Ref rigerate unused portion for up to two weeks.

griddle neutral oil 8 slices challah dipping batter

Heat a cast iron griddle over medium. Lightly coat with a neutral oil. Once oil is shimmering, dip two slices of challah into the batter, and place onto the griddle.

Cook until golden brown, about 4-7 minutes on each side. Remove finished slices to a cutting board. Slice all pieces in half on the diagonal.

plate brown sugar butter f rench cream 16 strawberries, sliced ½ pint (2 cups) blueberries

Slice strawberries.

Arrange f rench toast slices on warm plates. Garnish with blueberries, strawberries, french cream, and brown sugar butter.

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OXTAIL KARE-KARE bagoong. tripe. peanut butter. serves 6

broth 4 lbs oxtails 1 lb tripe 2 stalks celery 1 carrot 1 onion oil

Rinse oxtails and tripe under cold, running water. Trim off excess fat. Slice tripe into bite size pieces. Season with salt and pepper.

Heat a few tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat and brown oxtails on all sides.

Cut onion into large dice. Place into a deep pot, with oxtails, tripe, celery, and carrot. Cover with water. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Lower heat, cover, and simmer for about 2 ½ to 3 hours or until oxtails are easily pierced with a fork. Remove any foam that accumulates on top.

Add more water as needed to maintain about 10-12 cups.

Drain oxtails and tripe, reserving the broth.

blanch 4 cups oxtail broth 3 Asian eggplant, hansel variety ¼ lb green beans 1 bundle bok choy

Trim the ends of eggplants and cut into 1 inch thick pieces. Cut green beans into 3 inch lengths. Trim bok choy and separate the leaves.

In a pot over medium heat, bring 4 cups of broth to a boil. Blanch eggplant for about 1 minute. Remove from broth and set aside.

Blanch green beans for about 1 minute. Remove from broth and plunge in a bowl of ice water.

Blanch bok choy for about 30 seconds. Remove from broth and set aside.

seasoning reserved broth ¼ cup rice flour 1 ½ tbsp annatto powder 1 ½ cups peanut butter

In a skillet over medium heat, add rice flour and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and toasted.

In a bowl, combine toasted rice flour and ¼ cup reserved broth. Whisk until smooth.

In a small bowl, combine annatto powder and ¼ cup reserved broth. Stir until powder is dissolved and color has dispersed.

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In a small bowl, combine peanut butter and ½ cup of reserved broth and stir until well-blended.

Chef Amor Mia Oriño | 29

soup 2 tbsp oil 1 onion, medium 6 cloves garlic black pepper kosher salt ⅓ cup pecans and peanuts, chopped ⅓ cup bagoong

Peel and thinly slice onion. Peel and mince garlic.

Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add onions and garlic. Cook until limp, aromatic, and the onion caramelizes.

Add oxtail and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned. Add the tripe. Add 5 cups of reserved broth and bring to a simmer.

Stir in annatto water, rice flour mixture, and peanut butter mixture. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Continue to simmer for about 10 minutes until it begins to slightly thicken.

Add blanched vegetables and cook for 2-3 minutes, until heated through and tender yet crisp. Serve hot over steamed rice with shrimp paste on the side. Garnish with pecans and peanuts.

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DUMPLINGS lamb. consommé. carrots. serves 4

filling 400 g (14 oz) lamb rib meat 2 kg (4 lbs) onion

Thinly slice lamb meat and onion, separately.

Mix together and season with salt and pepper.

2 tsp salt 1 tsp black pepper dough 400 g (14 oz) lamb rib, bone removed 1 kg (2 lbs) white flour 300 ml (1 1/4 cups) water 1 tsp salt

Dissolve salt in water. Mix flour and eggs together. Slowly add salted water. Work together until dough is uniform and strong, but not sticky. Wrap in plastic. Rest at room temperature for at least 1 hour.

Using a pasta machine, roll dough to thinnest setting, about 2 millimeters. Cut out circles 5 centimeters in diameter. Place a teaspoon of filling in the center of each. Fold over to create half circle dumplings.

Drizzle with olive oil and f resh ground black pepper.

Steam for 35 minutes or freeze for later. Makes 20 dumplings.

consommé 2 L (8 1/2 cups) lamb stock 800 g (28 oz) lamb mince 200 g (.4 lb) ripe tomatoes 200 g (.4 lb) onion 200 g (.4 lb) carrot 100 g (.2 lb) celery 100 g (.2 lb) red bell pepper 4 cloves garlic 2 sprigs thyme 8 basil leaves 4 tarragon leaves ½ tsp black peppercorns, cracked 1 tsp sea salt 1 tsp honey

Roughly chop tomato. Remove seeds + water. Roughly chop onion, carrot, celery, red bell pepper, garlic, and thyme sprigs. Combine in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until finely chopped.

Add everything else, except stock, to the processor and pulse until thoroughly combined. Allow to rest for 1-2 hours, if time permits.

In a large pot, heat stock to 100 F. Add the clarification mixture. Stir to combine thoroughly. Bring to 145 F, stirring frequently, until a raft begins to form, 8-10 minutes. Once formed, firmly create a small hole in the center.

Simmer slowly at 180 F for 1-1 ½ hours. Strain through a chinois lined with cheesecloth. Be careful to not break the raft.

Adjust seasoning as necessary.

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Chef Shay Lavi | 30

soup 2 L (8 1/2 cups) consommé 4 carrots, young and with greens

Quarter carrots lengthwise. Place into a large pot along with consommé. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer. Simmer until carrot greens are tender and carrots have a slight crunch, about 5 minutes.

Remove f rom consommé and set aside.

If using f rozen dumplings, add to the consommé, and stir gently and continue to simmer until fully cooked, about 10 minutes.

If using steamed dumplings, remove consommé from heat and skip to plating.

plate consommé poached carrots

Place 4 carrot quarters and 5 dumplings into each bowl.

Pour in ½ liter (2 cups) of consommé.

cooked dumplings

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CHAI-DULCEY MOUSSE mango. lime. gingersnap. makes 12

chai powder powder powder powder powder powder

Combine all ingredients and mix thoroughly. Store in an airtight container.

280 g (1 cup 2 tbsp) milk

Place gelatin sheets in ice water to bloom, for 5 minutes or until softened.

2 tsp cardamom 2 tsp allspice 2 tsp nutmeg 4 tsp cinnamon 2 tsp clove 2 tsp ginger

3 tsp chai mix 350 g (12.3 oz) dulcey chocolate 3 sheets silver gelatin 575 g (2.5 cups) heavy cream

mousse

Heat milk and chai. Steep for 5 minutes.

Place dulcey chocolate in a medium bowl over a pot of hot water. Melt. Set aside.

Bring chai mixture to a boil. Add gelatin. Stir until completely dissolved. Strain mixture into melted dulcey chocolate and whisk until incorporated. Set aside until cooled.

Whip cream to soft-medium peaks. Fold into the chocolate in three stages. Pour into desired molds and freeze.

crumble 225 g (8 oz) butter, soft 180 g (6.3 oz) sugar 1 egg 80 g (2.8 oz) honey 310 g (11 oz) ap flour 12 g (2.5 tsp) ginger powder 3 g (1/2 tsp) cinnamon powder 1 g (1/4 tsp) clove powder 5 g (1 tsp) salt 9 g (1 3/4 tsp) baking soda

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Combine all ingredients in a stand mixer bowl with a paddle attachment. Mix until fully incorporated. Spread mixture evenly, with an offset spatula, onto a silpat-lined half sheet tray.

Bake at 325 F for 10-15 minutes. Once cooled, cut your desired base for your chai mousse.

Crumble up the extra gingersnap for your plate.

Chef Claudia V. MartÍnez | 31

glaze 23 g (.8 oz) silver gelatin 125 g (1/2 cup) water 220 g (1 cup) sugar 225 g (1 cup) glucose syrup 250 g (8.8 oz) white chocolate 155 g (2/3 cup) condensed milk 95 g (3.4 oz) Valrhona Absolu Cristal 3 drops orange food coloring

Bloom gelatin in ice water and set aside.

Place chocolate, bloomed gelatin, condensed milk, and absolu cristal into a medium bowl.

Bring water, sugar, and glucose to 217 F in a small pot.

Pour over chocolate mix.

Let mixture sit for about 5 minutes, then immersion blend until fully incorporated. Strain mixture and set aside until ready to use.

compote 3 mangoes, ripe 150 g (2/3 cup) sugar 2 limes

Peel mangoes and square off the sides. Cut into ¼ inch cubes.

Zest and juice the limes.

Place mango, lime juice, zest, and sugar in a small pot and cook until translucent. Strain compote and chill.

build gingersnap crumbles edible glitter flowers

Using a microwave, melt the white chocolate glaze in 30 second intervals. Stir in between each interval. Once melted, wait for glaze to cool down to around 96-91 F. Once cooled, remove chai mousse from freezer. Place on a wire rack. Pour glaze on top of each mousse until evenly coated. Remove and place on top of the gingersnap bottoms.

plate mousse gingersnap crumble mango-lime compote edible glitter flowers

Wait 20 minutes before serving, or until mousse has softened.

Decorate chai mousse with extra gingersnap crumble on the plate, mango-lime compote, edible glitter, and flowers.

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Chef Karen Portaleo | 32

MODELING CHOCOLATE food as art. makes enough for 1/4 of a bust

medium 2 lbs compound white chocolate 1 cup clear corn syrup

In a plastic bowl in the microwave, melt the chocolate slowly. This will prevent the chance of water droplets getting into the chocolate f rom a double boiler (which would ruin it).

Heat for 30 seconds, stir, repeat. Reduce heating time when chocolate begins to melt. Allow the heat in the chocolate to melt itself. You want the chocolate to become creamy at the coolest possible temperature.

When chocolate is smooth, add corn syrup. (If you are working in a cool climate, warm the syrup slightly to avoid shocking the chocolate and creating lumps.)

Stir quickly, incorporating both ingredients. The mixture will begin to seize, so you want as much blending as you can get before that happens.

When the chocolate seizes, pour it into a plastic zip bag, making sure to release all air. Leave it to cool until it’s solid.

Once solid, remove f rom the bag and knead it. At this point, it is finished.

If you find small bits and lumps, put the modeling chocolate in the microwave for 7-10 seconds, until the chocolate and the solidified bits all warm up, then knead it again until smooth.

Model the same way you would clay.

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Chefs Emma and Sean Schacke | 33 bonus recipe photo on pg. 69

PÂTÉ chicken liver. sherry. garlic. serves 10-12

pâté 2 lbs chicken livers 1 onion 5 cloves garlic 1 cup unsalted butter 1 cup dry sherry 1 cup chicken stock ½ cup heavy cream ½ tsp curing salt #1 oil, for searing aspic or gelée

Slice onion.

In a large pan over high heat, add oil to coat. Sear livers for 1-2 minutes on each side. Remove from pan and set aside.

Add onions, garlic, and 2 tablespoons of butter to the pan. Once alliums are tender, add sherry and chicken stock. Reduce by half. Remove pan f rom heat. Add chicken livers back to pan just to warm through.

While mixture is still warm, puree together in a food processor or blender, along with the rest of the butter, heavy cream, and curing salt.

Blend/process on high for 2-3 minutes. Be sure the mixture is smooth.

Pass mixture through a fine mesh chinois into terrine molds. Season with salt to taste. Cover with plastic wrap directly on the surface of the pate to avoid oxidation.

Alternatively, top with an aspic or gelée. Using a spatula positioned above the chilled terrine, pour warmed gelée or aspic onto pate – allowing the spatula to cool and disperse the stream to avoid creating pockets in the pâté.

Refrigerate overnight.

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Steve Nygren, Serenbe | 34 bonus recipe photo on pg. 94

FRENCH ONION SOUP f rom the Pleasant Peasant. serves 6

broth 5 lbs vidalia onions 6 cloves garlic ¼ cup olive oil ½ lb butter 2 sprigs f resh thyme 2 bay leaves 5 qts beef broth 2 cups sauternes, or sweet white wine salt black pepper

Slice onions. Chop garlic.

In a thick bottom pot over medium heat, add olive oil, butter, onions, thyme, and bay leaves. Season with salt and pepper. Sauté the onions until they are golden brown, taking care not to burn them. This will take at least 1 hour.

Once onions are fully golden brown, add the sauternes.

Reduce down to ¾ cup. Add the beef broth. Simmer for 1 hour. Remove thyme sprigs and bay leaves from the broth. Adjust the seasoning.

soup 6 slices gruyère or swiss cheese baguette

Turn on the broiler. Slice baguette and bake until crispy.

Ladle broth into 6 soup crocks. Add the croutons and top with cheese. Place on a sheet pan under the broiler until the cheese has melted and is golden brown.

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Chef Zeb Stevenson | | 35 bonus recipe photo on pg. 95

HERBED CHICKPEA FLATBREAD falafel. butcher’s salt. garlic jam. serves 8

jam 0.5 lb garlic 100 g (3.5 oz) champagne vinegar 200 g (7 oz) white wine 200 g (7 oz) sugar 2.5 g (1/2 tsp) thyme

Combine all ingredients in a sauce pot. Stir well and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until liquid is reduced by half. Remove the bay leaf and thyme.

Puree in the blender.

1 bay leaf 1 g (1/4 tsp) salt 15 g (1 tbsp) water

1 lb kosher salt 11 g (2 tsp) rosemary, dried

salt Coarsely grind the dried herbs and flowers together.

Combine with salt. Seal in an airtight container.

11 g (2 tsp) thyme, dried 5.5 g (1 tsp) savory, dried 5.5 g (1 tsp) sage, dried 2.25 g (1/2 tsp) lavender flowers, dried

112.5 g (4 oz) fresh cilantro, stems and all 56.25 g (2 oz) f resh parsley, stems and all 56.25 g (2 oz) f resh dill, stems and all 16.25 g (.6 oz) f resh mint, stems and all 16.25 g (.6 oz) jalapeño, halved and seeded 506.25 g (17.9 oz) chickpea flour

batter Juice herbs and jalapeños. Combine with water.

Mix in remaining ingredients until just incorporated. The batter should be mixed minimally as it toughens when overmixed. Slightly lumpy is acceptable.

Rest for 30 minutes before cooking.

337.5 g (1 1/3 cup + 1 tbsp) water 4.5 g (.16 oz) cumin, toasted and ground .5 g (.02 oz) black pepper, finely ground 1.25 g (.04 oz) paprika 12.5 g (.44 oz) salt 12.5 g (.44 oz) olive oil 3.75 g (.13 oz) baking powder

Preheat the oven and a small cast iron skillet to 450 F. Add enough olive oil to cover the bottom of the skillet.

Pour in a full layer of batter. It should sizzle in the skillet.

Return the skillet to the oven. Bake on the first side for 4 minutes. Flip flatbread over and bake 3 more minutes.

chickpea batter plate flaky sea salt bitter greens

Sprinkle flatbread with flaky sea salt and serve hot with bitter greens tossed in plenty of olive oil and lemon juice.

lemon juice

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ATOLE DE ARROZ dulces de calabaza. serves 12

dulces ¼ cup cal lime powder 3 lbs calabaza squash 6 qts water 4 cones piloncillo

Clean the squash. Lightly pierce all over with a fork. Cut in half and remove the seeds. Cut into medium chunks.

Mix the cal lime powder with 3 quarts of water and stir to homogenize. Soak the squash in this solution for 24 hours.

This no-cooking nixtamal allows excess starches to be removed for a nice crystallization.

The next day, wash off the solution thoroughly. Run the squash through water for a few minutes. Add cleaned squash to a large pot and submerge under 3 quarts of water. Add the piloncillo. Over a low flame, cook mixture slowly for 8-10 hours. Slow cooking will help prevent burning and over caramelization.

Begin checking for doneness after 8 hours.

atole 16 oz Carolina Gold rice 40 oz water 32 oz oat milk 2 cinnamon sticks 3 bay leaves

Mix all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a roaring boil. Maintain a roaring boil for 5 minutes, then cool to a slow simmer and cook for another 15-20 minutes.

The consistency will be soupy, but the rice should be fully cooked.

1 vanilla pod candied pecans 2 cups whole pecans, Pearson Farm 1 cup water 1 ½ cup demerara sugar

Put everything into a pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. When water is almost evaporated, stir with a wooden spoon until sugar re-crystallizes and coats the pecans.

pecan milk 16 oz pecans, Pearson Farm 16 oz water 8 oz demerara sugar

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Place the pecans in a medium bowl. Bring the water to a boil, then pour it over the pecans. Cover with a plate to seal. Steep for 10 minutes then blend the pecans and water together until the mixture is completely smooth.

Pass through a chinois for extra smoothness. While still hot, whisk in the sugar to make a pecan milk syrup.

Chef Maricela Vega | 36 bonus recipe photo on pg. 95

beet honey 2 medium beets 2 bay leaves seasonal herbs 6 black peppercorns 3 tbsp salt water to cover

Preheat oven to 350 F. In a small crock, combine beets, bay, seasonal herbs, peppercorns, salt, and water to cover. Cover crock and bake for 2 hours, or until beets are fork tender.

Remove beets, peel, and set aside to cool.

32 oz honey, Rossberry Farm Blend the braised beets with honey until fully homogenized.

Season with salt to taste.

plate atole calabazas dulces candied pecans pecan milk

Ladle 8 ounces of atole into a bowl. Lightly place chunks of candied calabaza and candied pecans on top. Drizzle with pecan milk syrup and beet sauce. Garnish with f resh marigold petals.

beet honey marigolds

233

Chef Shay Lavi | 37 bonus recipe photo on pg. 95

HUMMUS ‫סומוח‬.

serves 4 as an appetizer

bulgury bulgury cold water

Put chickpeas into a medium bowl and add cold water to cover by 2 inches. Cover and let sit at room temperature until chickpeas have doubled in size, 8-12 hours. Drain and rinse.

Combine soaked chickpeas in a large saucepan and add cold water to cover by at least 2 inches. Bring to a simmer, skimming foam off of the surface as needed.

Reduce heat to medium-low, partially cover, and simmer until chickpeas are tender and really falling apart. Drain.

Reserve the liquid and set aside (This is aquafaba). Keep chickpeas in the refrigerator until cold.

hummus 1 lemon, juiced 1 tsp salt 1 tsp cumin 2 cups and ¼ cup aquafaba 1 cup cooked chickpeas ½ cup tahini

Combine lemon juice, salt, cumin, aquafaba, and cooled chickpeas in a food processor. Process until smooth. Let sit for about 10 minutes to mellow.

Add tahini and pulse to combine. With motor running, add ¼ cup of cold aquafaba, 1 tablespoon at a time (this may cause the mixture to seize up at first). Process until mixture is very smooth, pale, and thick. Occasionally scrape down the sides of the bowl. Continue to process until mixture is extremely smooth, about 4 minutes.

If you prefer a lighter consistency, thin with more aquafaba.

Taste. Adjust seasoning with more salt, lemon juice, or cumin as desired.

plating green onion, sliced radishes, sliced fennel, sliced pita bread, warmed hot smoked spanish paprika lemon juice chopped parsley f ried chickpeas schug EVOO

Spoon hummus into a shallow bowl. Make a well in the center. Drizzle liberally with EVOO. Garnish as desired and serve with crudités and warm pita bread.

235

Chef Cristina Lugo Soto | 38 bonus recipe photo on pg. 95

BARBACOA DE RES guajillo. cloves. avocado leaves. serves 12

beef 5 lbs stew beef 3 tbsp kosher salt

Cut beef into 2 inch cubes. Season with salt and let rest while preparing the salsa.

salsa 30 guajillo chiles, dried 10 chiles de árbol, dried 10 cloves garlic ½ tsp thyme

Remove the seeds and stems from guajillo chiles. Submerge and soak in clean water for 1 hour. Remove, drain, and put into a blender. Add all other dry ingredients, water, and blend to puree. Approximately 7-10 minutes.

1 tsp cloves, ground 1 tsp black pepper, ground 1 tsp teaspoon cumin, ground 7 avocado leaves 10 bay leaves 2 tbsp salt 4 cups water seasoned beef prepared salsa

barbacoa In a large pot, thoroughly mix and coat the beef with all of the salsa. Chill and rest overnight.

Bring to a boil and cook over medium/low heat for approximately 21/2 hours, stirring regularly. Meat should become fork tender to shred to a pulled beef consistency.

plating red onion cilantro radish

Warm the tortillas. Fill each with about 2 ounces of barbacoa and top with sliced onion, sliced radish, cilantro leaves, and roasted crickets.

lime wedges crickets

237

TORTELLI kabocha. sorrel. smoke. serves 4-6

filling 2 kabocha squash 1 ½ cups ricotta cheese 1 egg 1/8 tsp coriander powder salt pepper olive oil

Strain ricotta in cheesecloth overnight.

Preheat oven to 350 F. Cut squash in half. Do not remove the seeds. They release oils that keep the squash moist and add flavor. Dress the flesh of the squash with olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast about an hour, cut side down, until squash is tender.

Remove seeds f rom roasted squash. Place flesh into a blender along with the other ingredients. Blend until smooth. The mixture should be as dry as possible and able to stand up on its own.

dough 700 g (24.7 oz) “00” flour 82 g (2.9 oz) water 81 g (2.9 oz) whole egg 25 g (.9 oz) olive oil 20 g (4 tsp) salt 262 g (9.2 oz) egg yolk

In a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, mix dry ingredients on medium speed.

Separately mix wet ingredients. Turn mixer off and add wet mix to dry ingredients. Mix on medium speed for 10 minutes.

Wrap dough and rest at room temperature for an hour.

pasta dough kabocha f illing 2 tbsp butter, unsalted 3 sorrel leaves water salt

Roll pasta dough at second to thinnest setting on a pasta machine. Add 1 teaspoon of filling every 2 inches.

Fold bottom layer of sheet over the top. Cut out half moon shapes. These can be cooked right away or frozen for later use.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add enough salt so you can taste it but not too much that it’s salty. Cook f rozen tortelli for 2 minutes, or until filling is thawed.

In a large sauté pan, melt butter with sorrel. Add pasta and swirl until the sauce completely coats it. If the sauce separates, add a small amount of cold butter and pasta water.

238

Chef Craig Richards | 39 bonus recipe photo on pg. 95

plate tortelli smoked ricotta

Arrange tortelli on warm plates. Garnish with smoked ricotta, pumpkin seed oil, and chiffonade sorrel.

pumpkin seed oil sorrel

239

Chef Taria Camerino, in homage to Evelyn J. Frazier | 40 bonus recipe photo on pg. 28

LEMON ICE BOX PIE revolutions. sugar shortages. pioneers. makes 1 large pie

crust 14.4 oz graham crackers, 1 box 12 oz butter, Banner

Gently melt the butter over medium-low.

Finely crush graham crackers. Mix butter into crumbs by hand. Evenly distribute and press mixture into a deep, stone pie plate. Chill.

filling 6 egg yolks, Trippin’ Root Workshop 12 lemons 1 ½ cans sweetened condensed milk

Juice lemons and set aside.

Whisk yolks and milk together until fully combined. Add lemon juice in a very slow stream, whisking constantly.

Continue adding and whisking until no juice is left. This process allows the acid to cook the yolks.

Pour into prepared crust. Chill overnight.

meringue 6 egg whites 1 cup sugar ¼ cup water 1 blowtorch

In a stand mixer, whisk egg whites on low speed.

Combine sugar and water in a small pot. Heat to softball stage. To test for softball stage, keep a small container of ice water next to the range. Dip fingers into the ice water, then grab a small amount of the boiling sugar, and immediately plunge it (and fingers) back into the ice water. If you can form a soft ball of sugar in the ice water, the syrup is ready.

Softball stage is between 235 and 245 F. Reaching fingers into boiling sugar at this temperature is dangerous but can be performed without injury. Trained fingers are more precise than a thermometer. Do not attempt if you have slow reflexes. The sugar will know if you’re scared.

When syrup is ready, increase stand mixer speed to medium-high. Pour syrup down the side of the bowl, not too fast, but not too slow.

Continue to mix on medium-high until the mixture forms stiff peaks.

Dollop meringue onto prepared pie. Spread and fluff with an offset spatula to make it pretty. Use a blowtorch to gently brown the meringue.

241

Chef Emma Colon | 41 bonus recipe photo on pg. 67

SUGAR COOKIES chocolate. spice. makes 3 dozen

dough ½ lb butter, unsalted 11 oz sugar 2 eggs 1 tsp vanilla 1 oz milk 3 oz cocoa powder 14 oz ap flour 1 tsp salt 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp cinnamon ¾ tsp cayenne powder sanding sugar, for decoration

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together the butter and sugar at medium speed.

Add eggs, one at a time. Add milk and vanilla.

Sift dry ingredients together. Add dry ingredients in three parts, mixing gently between each addition.

Be careful not to over mix the dough.

Once the dough is ready, scoop into desired size (a 1 ounce scoop works best). Roll each cookie in sanding sugar.

Place cookies onto a parchment lined sheet pan and bake for 8-12 minutes at 350 F.

plating tall glasses of cold milk

Put as many into your mouth as can fit. Wash down with milk.

243

Monica Sunny | 42 bonus recipe photo on pg. 56

PERFECT CUP OF CHAI on the stove

1 cup of water 1 cup of milk 3-4 tsp of our true blend loose leaf black tea (darjeeling, assam, orange pekoe) 4 cardamom pods, lightly crushed open 2 cloves, lightly crushed 3 small pieces of cinnamon (5 cm each) a pinch of fennel (8-10 fennel seeds)

In a small saucepan, add water, cardamom, clove, cinnamon, and fennel and bring to a boil. Add in tea leaves and simmer for 1-2 minutes. Add milk and bring it to a boil (1st boil). Turn down the heat once chai starts to bubble up and simmer for 1-2 minutes. Bring the heat up for the 2nd boil (double boil for stronger and creamier chai). Turn off heat and use a strainer to strain ingredients when pouring chai into a teacup. Add honey or sugar if desired.

optional - 1 small piece of ginger (1 cm)

245

Kellie Thorn | 43 bonus cocktail recipe photo on pg. 81

LOVE DRUG pink peppercorn and grapef ruit cordial 500 grams f resh grapef ruit juice strained 1 cup pink peppercorns 500 grams organic sugar 6 whole grapef ruits for zesting 2 whole limes for zesting

In a saucepan toast peppercorns, then use a muddler to crack them. Add juice and bring to a simmer. Using a microplane, zest the rind of 6 grapefruits and 2 limes.

Add zested rinds into the pot as it simmers. Stir, and add sugar. Stir until dissolved. Take off heat and allow to steep until cool. Strain off solids and bottle.

love drug 1.5 oz St. George Terroir Gin .75 oz pink peppercorn and grapef ruit cordial .75 oz lime juice .5 oz St. George Bruto Americano

Combine all ingredients in tin and shake with ice. Strain over f resh ice in a chilled collins glass. Top with soda water. Gently stir to combine. Garnish with a rosemary sprig and a grapef ruit slice.

dash of Scrappy’s grapef ruit bitters rosemary sprig

Tim Faulkner | 44 bonus cocktail recipe photo on pg. 81

KUDZU JULEP 3 oz bourbon 1/2 oz kudzu syrup 1 1/2 tsp castor sugar 3-4 sprigs f resh mint

Fill julep cup (or rocks glass) with crushed ice. Combine bourbon and kudzu syrup in cup. Stir. Add crushed ice so that a round cap is formed. Sprinkle castor sugar on top of drink. Garnish with 3-4 mint sprigs so that a bouquet is formed. Add straw.

kudzu syrup 3 tsp kudzu root powder 1 cup water 4 oz kudzu leaf juice

Combine 3 teaspoons kudzu (kuzu) root powder with 1 cup water over medium heat, stir vigorously until all is dissolved. Let cool. Fine strain. Add 4 ounces of f resh kudzu leaf juice, stir. Keep ref rigerated 5-7 days.

Taylor Blackgrave | 45 bonus cocktail recipe photo on pg. 82

YOU NEVER CAN TELL HANK FROM PANK ½ tsp Ramazzotti Amaro 1.5 Cocchi di Torino 1.5 Roku Gin

Stir to chill, strain into a Nick and Nora glass. Garnish with lemon rose.

247

Holli Medley | 46 bonus cocktail recipe photo on pg. 82

BREAD & CIRCUSES 1.5 oz César Florido Fino Cruz del Mar

Shake up.

.75 oz Tempus Fugit Kina L’aéro D’or .5 oz georgia peach syrup .5 oz lemon

salt

Brent Elbon | 47 bonus cocktail recipe photo on pg. 83

EL VOLCÁN 2 oz mezcal (modérate smoke)

Combine in glass over ice, transfer to glass with 1/2 rim of Tajin.

.75 oz lime juice .50 oz cynar .25 yellow chartreuse .25 agave barspoon of f resh serrano pepper Tajin chile salt

Taylor Blackgrave | 48 bonus cocktail recipe photo on pg. 84

WHAT A WONDERFUL MULE 2 dash vanilla tincture 1 oz sour OJ

Shake to chill, strain into Collins glass. Garnish with orange candy wedge.

.5 oz simple .5 oz ginger syrup 1.5 oz vodka top 1.5 oz soda

249

Kellie Thorn | 49 bonus cocktail recipe photo on pg. 85

SMOOTH OPERATOR hazelnut infused avua amburana 25 grams of hazelnuts 1 750ml bottle Avua Amburana Cachaca

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper. Lay hazelnuts evenly on the sheet pan and toast until golden in color. Allow to cool.

In a jar, combine Cachaca and hazelnuts and allow to infuse overnight. Strain the next day and bottle Cachaca.

The hazelnuts can be dehydrated, ground up, and used for baking.

smooth operator .75 oz hazelnut infused Avua Amburana .75 oz Great King Street blended scotch .75 oz Gonzalez Byass la Copa sweet vermouth

Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass add ice and stir. Strain up into a Nick and Nora. Express orange peel.

Finish with orange peel garnish.

.75 oz Gonzalez Byass Cristina medium sherry .25 oz Tempus Fugit Creme de Cacao 3 dashes angostura bitters

251

252

253

CHEF REFERENCES

Alex Bolar @alexbolar @eclair.atl

Gerry Garvin @chefgarvin @gerry.garvin

Ron Hsu @chefhsu @lazybettyatl

Amor Mia Oriño @kamayan_atl

Gerry Klaskala @gerryklaskala

Samone Lett @chefsamone

Bruce Logue @boccalupoatl

Shay Lavi @shayish3_shay_lavi

Carla Fears @carlafears

Jason Liang @chefjasonliang @brushatl @momonokiatl @momocafeatl

Christopher Fraley @hungrychrist @krsteakbar

Jeb Aldrich @jebaldrich @tinylousatl

Chrysta Poulos @chrystapoulos

Jen Yee @jenyeepastry

Claudia V. Martinez @claudvictoria @tinylousatl www.claudiavmartinez.com

Jiyeon Lee @chefjiyeonlee @heirloommarketbbq

Terry Koval @terrykoval

Karen Portaleo www.karenportaleo.com @karenportaleo

Thomas McKeown @chefmckeown @hyattregencyatl

Kevin Rathbun @moresalt @kevinrathbunsteak

Todd Richards @cheftoddrichards @jackmonthospitality @richardssouthernfried

Cleophus Hethington @chefophus @ebichopbar Craig Richards @craigrichards @lylalila

Stacey Eames @highbakegal @highlandbakeryandkitchen319 Steve Nygren @stevenygren Steven Satterfield @millerunionchef @millerunionatl

Kristen Belan Linton Hopkins @chefhopkins

Yohana Solomon @gotinjera @chowclubatl

Emma and Sean Schacke @evergreenbutcherandbaker @emmarita @seanschacke

Maricela Vega @marsdemari @chicomecoatlien

Zeb Stevenson @mister_zeb @redbird_atl

Emma Colón @b_side_decatur

Nicolas Bour @nicolasbour

Cristina Lugo Soto @eltesoroatl

255

CONVERSION CHART

VOLUME (LIQUID) U.S. Metric 1 tsp 1 tbsp 1/4 cup 1/3 cup 1/2 cup 2/3 cup 3/4 cup 1 cup

5 ml 15 ml 60 ml 75 ml 125 ml 150 ml 175 ml 250 ml

VOLUME (DRY) U.S. Metric 1 tsp 1 tbsp 1/4 cup 1/3 cup 1/2 cup 2/3 cup 3/4 cup 1 cup

5 ml 15 ml 59 ml 79 ml 118 ml 158 ml 177 ml 225 ml

OVEN TEMPERATURES U.S. Metric 250° F 300° F 350° F 400° F 450° F

130° C 150° C 180° C 200° C 230° C

POUND AND OUNCE TO GRAM Ounces Grams 1 5 10 12 16

28.35 141.75 283.50 340.20 453.60

Pounds Grams 1 5 10 25 50

435.60 2,268 4,536 11,340 22,680

259

GLOSSARY

Árbol chile: Small and potent Mexican Chile, also known as Bird’s Beak Chile.

Aquafaba: The liquid that remains from cooking the chickpeas. This liquid is rich in mineral content as well as adding a smooth like texture to dishes.

Can also be used in some baking recipes as an egg replacement.

Bagoong: Fermented Philippine condiment made of fish or shrimp paste and salt.

Bulgury: Very small chickpeas used in traditional Israeli hummus, these legumes produce a creamier texture than their larger counterparts.

Calabaza: Hard winter squash variety.

Cal lime: Calcium Oxide. Commonly known as quicklime. Used to soften corn.

Culantro: Also known as Mexican Coriander or Long Coriander. The perennial herb has a lighter flavor and aroma than cilantro, though both carry similar characteristics.

Double zero flour: An Italian style flour. Lower in gluten content than traditional American flour. Use for pizzas and other flat breads. Ground finer than standard flour.

Dulcey chocolate: Valhrona brand Blond Dulcey 32%. White chocolate which has been caramelized.

Buttery, smooth, but not overly sweet.

Gnudi: Italian dumpling made f rom semolina flour.

Filled with ricotta cheese. Pillowy and delicate.

Gochujang: Korean fermented condiment made f rom chili powder, glutinous rice, fermented soybean powder, barley malt powder, and salt.

Sweet, savory, and spicy.

Cassava flour: Gluten, grain, and nut-f ree, this flour is made f rom the root of the cassava plant. Cassava is also known as manioc or yuca. Very mild, almost neutral in flavor.

Gold gelatin: Bloom strength range of 190 to 220.

Creates a firmer consistency than Silver grade, but not as firm as Platinum. Found in sheets or powdered. Sheets preferred over powdered varieties for ease of use and clean taste.

Castor sugar: Powdered sugar.

Guajillo pepper: Dried form of Marisol Chile, this is the second most commonly used chili in Mexican cuisine after poblanos. Comes form the Mexican state of Zacatecas.

Cerignola olive: Also known as Bella di Cerignola. A cultivar that originates f rom Italy, this olive is large and mild in flavor.

Chickpea flour: Flour ground f rom roasted or raw garbanzo beans. Known as gram, channa dal, or besan flour. The roasted flour is nutty in flavor while the raw flour is slightly bitter in taste.

Chimichuri: An uncooked sauce used both in cooking and as a table condiment. Consists of f resh green herbs, garlic, an acid like lemon or vinegar, and olive oil.

Chinois: “China Cap” A funnel like strainer used to remove solids f rom liquids.

Comté cheese: French cheese made from unpasteurized cow’s milk f rom the Franche-Comté province. Buttery with hazelnut notes, melts easily.

262

Hazelnut paste: Thick paste of roasted, ground hazelnuts. To make, toast hazelnuts lightly in a 300 F oven. Allow the nuts to cool. Finely grind with a mortar and pestle or in a nut butter grinder.

Japanese grain vinegar: Distilled wheat vinegar flavored with rice, corn, and sake lees (remaining sediment from filtering sake). Mildly sweet.

Korarima: Black cardamom.

Koseret: In the verbena family, endemic to Ethiopia, but cultivated throughout Af rican countries Camphorous and minty aroma, similar flavor to basil with a woody quality. Closely related to Mexican oregano in flavor and uses.

Kudzu: Voracious spreading vine that covers the landscape in the Southeastern Unites States. Often used in China and Japan as an herbal medicine to treat hypertension and as a hangover cure. Bright purple flowers bloom in late summer.

Kurobuta: Gourmet pork of the Berkshire pig bred for fineness and increased marbling in the meat.

Mitmita: Powdered seasoning mix used in Ethiopia. Usually contains African Bird’s Chile, Ethiopian cardamom, cloves, and salt. Can be quite spicy.

Mole: A traditional Mexican sauce. While coming in a variety of styles, generally made up of chili peppers, nuts, grains, and cacao.

Nixtamalization: The process for the preparation of maize or other grain, in which an alkaline solution is used to remove the hull. This process is known to remove 97-100% of anflatoxins in contaminated corn.

Oxtails: Gelatin rich meat from cattle tails. Usually braised, stewed, or used as a stock base.

Palm wine: Alcoholic beverage derived f rom the sap of palmyra, date, and coconut palms. Sweet, milky, and effervescent.

Pink peppercorn: Dried berry of the Peruvian Pepper Tree. Has a light, floral and peppery quality.

Can cause an allergic reaction for those with a tree nut allergy.

Rice flour: Flour made f rom finely milled rice.

Found in white or brown rice forms. Used in baking and as a thickening agent in liquids.

Render: To provide or give up juices. To obtain clarified animal fat through heat.

Sambal: Indonesian chili sauce or paste. Made f rom a mixture of a variety of peppers, shrimp paste, garlic, ginger, shallot, scallion, palm sugar, and lime juice. Hot and spicy, slightly sweet.

Schug: Hot sauce originating in Yemen cuisine, also known as Mabboj.

Scotch bonnet: Chili pepper associated with the Carribean and West African cuisine. Habanero like in heat with a sweet f ruity flavor.

Silver gelatin: Bloom strength of 160. Creates a firmer consistency than Bronze grade, but not as firm as Gold. Found in sheets or powdered. Sheets preferred over powdered varieties for ease of use and clean taste. Most common grade of gelatin sheet found in the professional kitchen.

Sorghum syrup: Thick sweet syrup produced from sorghum grass. Sweeter and lighter in color than molasses. Buttery rich complexity.

Sour orange: Also known as bitter or Seville orange. Less sweet and more bitter in flavor than traditional sweet oranges due to its high acidity. A cooking orange not eaten raw.

Sweet potato noodles (dangmyeon): Korean noodles made from the starch of sweet potato.

Often referred to as glass or cellophane noodles for their translucent, glass-like appearance after soaking.

Tajín: Mexican seasoning consisting of ground chilies, salt, and dehydrated lime juice.

Tamari: Concentrated liquid that rises to the top of the vat when making miso paste. Contains no wheat. Behaves like soy sauce.

Temper: The process of gradually introducing a hot liquid to eggs or other foods that will be incorporated into a hot mixture. Also, the melting and cooling process used in stabilizing chocolate.

Tournée: French method of cutting and peeling root vegetables into oblong, seven-sided footballlike shapes. This technique helps to cook these vegetables evenly.

Tripe: Edible stomach lining, often f rom cattle or sheep.

Uda spice: Indigenous to West Af rica, this spice comes f rom the guinea or negro pepper known as uda. Aromatic and slightly bitter. Used to flavor Igbo delicacies.

263

RESOURCES

Arbol chile Local: El Progresso 1460 Boulevard SE Atlanta, GA 30315 Bagoong Online: Various Brands amazon.com Local: Various Brands First Oriental Market 2774 E Ponce De Leon Ave. Decatur, GA 30030 Buford Highway Farmers Market 5600 Buford Hwy. NE Doraville, GA 30340 H Market 6035 Peachtree Rd. Doraville, GA 30360 Banner butter Online: Banner Butter Brand bannerbutter.com Local: Banner Butter H&F Bread Co 1500 Marietta Blvd.

Decatur, GA 30318 Bulgury Local: Talar’s Market 2495 Lawrenceville Hwy. Decatur, GA 30033 Cassava flour Online: Pamela’s Brand pamelasproducts.com/products/ gluten-f ree-cassava-flour Local: Pamela’s Brand Sprouts Farmers Market 1845 Piedmont Ave. NE Atlanta, GA 30324 Sprouts Farmers Market 2551 Blackmon Dr. Decatur, GA 30033 266

Dulcey chocolate Online: Valrhona Brand valrhona-chocolate.com/valrhona-dulcey-32-baking-bag.html Local: Valrhona Brand The Pastry Depot 1430 Chattahoochee Ave. NW Decatur, GA 30318 Gochujang Online: Mother In Law’s Brand

Guanciale Local: Evergreen Butcher & Baker 2011 Hosea William’s Dr. NE Atlanta, GA 30317 Hazelnut flour Online: Amoretti Brand amoretti.com/collections/nutflours/products/natural-hazelnut-flour Local: Bob’s Red Mill Brand

milkimchi.com/collections/gochujang/products/spicy-gochujang-paste

Whole Foods Market 1555 Church St. Decatur, GA 30033

Local: Mother In Law’s Brand

Ingles Markets 100 Fairview Rd. Ellenwood, GA 30294

Buford Highway Farmers Market 5600 Buford Hwy. NE Doraville, GA 30340 Whole Foods Market 650 Ponce De Leon Ave. Atlanta, GA 30308 Whole Foods Market 2111 Briarcliff Rd. NE Atlanta, GA 30329 The Fresh Market 2099 Peachtree Rd. NE Atlanta, GA 30309 Gold gelatin Online: Modernist Pantry Brand modernistpantry.com/gelatin-sheets-gold.html Local: Various Brands The Pastry Depot 1430 Chattahoochee Ave. NW Decatur, GA 30318 Guajillo chile Local: El Progresso 1460 Boulevard SE Atlanta, GA 30315

Ingles Markets 4815 Rockbridge Rd., Rockbridge Crossing Stone Mountain, GA 30083 Korarima Local: Your Dekalb Farmer’s Market, YDFM 3000 Ponce de Leon Ave. Decatur, GA 30030 Koseret: Local: Your Dekalb Farmer’s Market, YDFM 3000 Ponce de Leon Ave. Decatur, GA 30030 Kuzu starch Online: Eden Foods Edenfoods.com Local: First Oriental Market 2774 E Ponce De Leon Ave. Decatur, GA 30030

Logan Turnpike grits Online: Logan Turnpike Mill loganturnpikemill.com/gritsporridge Local: Logan Turnpike Mill Your Dekalb Farmer’s Market, YDFM 3000 Ponce de Leon Ave. Decatur, GA 30030

First Oriental Market 2774 E Ponce De Leon Ave. Decatur, GA 30030 Buford Highway Farmers Market 5600 Buford Hwy. NE Doraville, GA 30340 H Mart 6035 Peachtree Rd. Doraville, GA 30360

Logan Turnpike Mill Outlet Store 80 Town Square B Blairsville, GA 30512

Uda spice Online: Nature’s Best Brand ugabs.com/shop/uda-spice/

Mitmita Local: Your Dekalb Farmer’s Market, YDFM 3000 Ponce de Leon Ave. Decatur, GA 30030

Local: Various Brands Buford Highway Farmers Market 5600 Buford Hwy. NE Doraville, GA 30340

Palm wine Online: Nkulenu’s Brand ethnicdistrict.com/product/ nkulenus-palm-wine-drink Local: Various Brands Buford Highway Farmers Market 5600 Buford Hwy. NE Doraville, GA 30340 Silver gelatin Online: Modernist Pantry Brand modernistpantry.com/ gelatin-sheets-silver.html Local: Various Brands The Pastry Depot 1430 Chattahoochee Ave. NW Decatur, GA 30318 Sweet potato noodles Online: Surasang Brand arirangusa.net/product/koreanstyle-sweet-potato-starch-noodle-surasang-12oz Local: Various Brands

267

REFERENCE

Inside cover photo Midtown at golden hour, photo by Gene Phillips pg. 7 acknowledgements, written by Taria Camerino pg. 9 introduction, written by Andrew Wilson pg. 11 preface, written by Taria Camerino pg. 13-16 foreword, written by Karcheik Sims-Alvarado, Ph.D. pg. 19 A Seat at the Table, written by Taria Camerino photo of a segregated lunchroom, photo credited to Associated Press pg. 20 Signs at the entrance to Lester Maddox’s Pickrick Restaurant and black women attempting to enter a segregated shop, both photos credited to Associated Press pg. 21 first Atlanta restaurants to integrate, list credited to Ed Negri, “Herren’s, An Atlanta Landmark” pg. 22 Percy Harden, Stanley Wise, Fred Taylor, and city Councilman James Howard at Paschal’s Restaurant, photo credited to Associated Press city business license for Evelyn J. Frazier, photo courtesy of Auburn Avenue Research Library and Evelyn J. Frazier family Paschal’s Motor Hotel and Restaurant, photo credited to Associated Press pg. 23 Busy Bee Cafe food pg. 24-25 Pennye Chavis Turner holding Evelyn J. Frazier’s portrait Frazier’s Cafe Society menu scan courtesy of Auburn Avenue Research Library and Evelyn J. Frazier family pg. 26-27 Evelyn J. Frazier, Frazier’s Cafe Society photos courtesy of Auburn Avenue Research Library and Evelyn J. Frazier family pg. 28 Frazier Cafe Society’s lemon ice box pie 270

pg. 29 Evelyn J. Frazier portrait, photo courtesy of Auburn Avenue Research Library and Evelyn J. Frazier family pg. 30-31 Atlanta University Center Consortium, photo by Gene Phillips quote by Sheretha Bell, Vice President, Brand, Atlanta Convention & Visitors Bureau pg. 33 From Memory, written by Taria Camerino preparing food: Amor Mia Oriño pg. 34 beans: Rodgers Greens & Roots Farm lettuce: Atlanta Harvest blueberries: Mena’s Farm pg. 35 raw loaves: Osono raw dough: Sarah Dodge, Ammazza preparing food: Shay Lavi cardamom pods: Chai Box, Monica Sunny pouring chocolate: Christopher Fraley pg. 36 cocktail: Kellie Thorn seasoning dish: Chef Jiyeon Li plating: Chefs Ron Hsu, Carla Fears, Cleophus Hethington pg. 37 garnishing cocktail: Farmacy plating: Chef Gerry Klaskala plating: Chef Craig Richards cocktail pour: Taylor Blackgrave, Wonderkid cutting carrots: Jiyeon Li pg. 38 food prep and plating: The Deer and the Dove Gerry Klaskala Jiyeon Li Zeb Stevenson pg. 39 cutting Korean pear: Alex Bolar pg. 41 A Profession of Hope, written by Taria Camerino farm produce, photo by Taria Camerino pg. 42-43 Rodgers Greens & Roots Farm Quote by Food Well Alliance

pg. 44 Atlanta Harvest sunchokes: Rodgers Greens & Roots Farm mushrooms: Grant Park Farmers Market, photo

by Taria Camerino Maricela Vega wood supply source f rom Syama (pictured)

pg. 58 latte: Taproom Duse Coffee: love letters chai: Chai Box coffee and motorcycles: Brother Moto tea service: Dr. Bombay’s Underwater Tea Party Pan de Elote: La Calavera

pg. 45 Atlanta Harvest mushroom: Grant Park Farmers Market, photo by Taria Camerino Farmer Ashley: Rodgers Greens & Roots Farm

pg. 59 espresso reflection: Mar Mills green tea and pastry: Momo Cafe love notes f rom Duse Coffee coffee: Hemlock Salon & Apothecary latter: Mar Mills

pg. 46 man with chicken: Brent Hall, Freewheel Farm pg. 47 persimmons: Freedom Farmers Market pg. 48 eggs and vegetables: Freewheel Farm carrots: Mena’s Farm, photo by Taria Camerino chickens: Urban Fresh Farm, photo by Taria Camerino red lettuce: Freedom Farmers Market radishes: Freewheel Farm, photo by Taria Camerino water droplet on lettuce: Greenleaf Community Farm, Christa Leonard, photo by Taria Camerino pg. 49 goat: Atlanta Harvest Urban Fresh Farm, photo by Taria Camerino pumpkins: Rodgers Green & Roots Farm cabbage: Atlanta Harvest apples: Freedom Farmers Market vegetables: Freewheel Farm vegetables pg. 50-51 Freedom Farmers Market fresh vegetables pg. 52-53 Serenbe Farms, quote by Steve Nygren photo provided by Serenbe, J Ashley Photo pg. 55 Only the Beginning, written by Taria Camerino Blue Donkey Craft Coffee pg. 56 chai: Chai Box pg. 57 chalkboard: Two Clocks, photo by Two Clocks coffee beans: East Pole Coffee Co. London Fog Earl Gray tea latte: Chrome Yellow Trading Co. matcha latte and black sesame escargot: Momo Cafe Chemex: Duse Coffee cola “cocktail”: Spiller Park Coffee espresso: Brash

pg. 61 With the Grain, written by Taria Camerino bags of flour: Evergreen Butcher and Baker pg. 62-63 biscuit making pg. 64 lamenation, croissant: The Little Tart Bakeshop blackberry pie: Taria Camerino whisks: Miller Union, photo by Taria Camerino raw loaves: Osono pg. 65 blueberry frangipane: The Little Tart Bakeshop chocolate tart: Pamela Moxley, photo by Taria Camerino croissants: Evergreen Butcher and Baker hands in dough pg. 66 baked loaves: Osono potato apple onion galette: Cardinal pastry making: The Deer and The Dove f resh challah: Highland Bakery pie: Muchacho, photo by Taria Camerino pg. 67 biscuits: TGM Bread, photo by Taria Camerino macarons: Tiny Lou’s crostini: Boccalupo bagels: The Deer and The Dove pastry prep: Evergreen Butcher and Baker cookies: The Deer and The Dove pg. 68 concha and coffee: La Calavera strawberry pastry: Sarah Dodge, Ammazza cookie: The Deer and The Dove donut: Revolution Donuts dough: Sarah Dodge, Ammazza pg. 69 Evergreen Butcher and Baker 271

pg. 71 A Place to Call Your Own, written by Taria Camerino Tiny Lou’s pg. 72 Tiny Lou’s pg. 73 Tiny Lou’s Nina & Rafi Little Spirit Cardinal pg. 74 Bon Ton Ticonderoga Club Wonderkid Wonderkid pg. 75 Nina & Rafi Cardinal Miller Union pg. 76 Cardinal C. Ellet’s Steakhouse Redbird 8ARM Hazel Jane’s Bon Ton pg. 77 Redbird Lyla Lila Lyla Lila Wonderkid The Deer and The Dove Wonderkid pg. 79 Up to the Bar, written by Taria Camerino Cardinal pg. 80 The Countess, The James Room pg. 81 Sex Panther, Randy Pechin, Little Spirit Love Drug, Kellie Thorn, Empire State South Smoked Bourbon Mai Tai, Anton Dang, Bon Ton Uprooted, Raquel Ravenell + Erika Moore, Whiskey and Rosemary at Parlor for the Farmacy Pop Up featuring Greenleaf Farms by Christa Leonard Kudzu Julep, Tim Faulkner, Octopus Bar King Peach, Randy Pechin, Little Spirit

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pg. 82 Taylor Blackgrave, Wonderkid You Never Can Tell Hank From Pank, Taylor Blackgrave, Wonderkid 8ARM Bread & Circuses, Holli Medley, Cardinal Raquell Ravenell + Erika Moore, Whiskey and Rosemary at Parlor for the Farmacy Pop Up featuring Greenleaf Farms by Christa Leonard Broken Parachute, Tyler Reddick, Bon Ton pg. 83 Hazel Jane’s Ticonderoga Cup, Greg Best, Ticonderoga Club Smoked Bourbon Mai Tai, Tyler Reddick, Bon Ton El Volcain, Brent Elbon, El Tesoro Little Spirit Martini, Kathryn DiMenichi, Cardinal pg. 84 BonTon Hurricane, Tyler Reddick, Bon Ton Taylor Blackgrave, Wonderkid Mexican Standoff, Randy Pechin, Little Spirit The Deer and The Dove: Tokiwa Sears What A Wonderful Mule, Taylor Blackgrave, Wonderkid Farmacy pg. 85 Future Water, Greg Best, Ticonderoga Club Raquell Ravenell, Whiskey and Rosemary at Parlor for the Farmacy Pop Up featuring Greenleaf Farms by Christa Leonard wine, Melissa Davis, Hazel Jane’s Smooth Operator, Kellie Thorn, Empire State South Sangrita, Tim Faulkner, Octopus Bar The James Room pg. 87 Work in Progress, written by Taria Camerino Miller Union pg. 88-89 Kamayan pop-up, photo by Tommy Stubblefield pg. 90 Kevin Rathbun Gerry Klaskala The Deer and The Dove Osono The Deer and The Dove pg. 91 Ron Hsu, Lazy Betty, photo by Eric Weider Kamayan pop-up, photo by Tommy Stubblefield Talat Market Nam Phuong: Tina Nguyen, photo by Eric Weider Serenbe farmhouse

pg. 92 Boccalupo mise en place: Alex Bolar mise en place: Sound Table mise en place: Gerry Garvin

pg. 107 Steven Satterfield

pg. 93 mushrooms: C. Ellet’s Steakhouse mise en place: Jiyeon Li prawns: Craig Richards pots: Gerry Klaskala burning logs: The Deer and The Dove

pg. 109 Todd Richards

pg. 94 f rench onion soup: Serenbe pg. 95 herbed chickpea flatbread: Zeb Stevenson, Redbird atole con calabazas dulces Maricela Vega, 8ARM braised lamb shank: photo by Angie Webb apple torte: Alex Bolar hummus: Shay Lavi tacos de barbacoa: Cristina Lugo Suto, El Tosoro kabocha squash tortelli: Craig Richards cauliflower and brussels with fish rice wine: José Manuel Ibarra, Sound Table pg. 97 Just Getting Started, written by Taria Camerino Ron Hsu, Lazy Betty, photo by Eric Weider pg. 98 Grilled Spanish Octopus pg. 99 Ron Hsu and Aaron Phillips pg. 100 Rabbit Roulade pg. 101 Alex Bolar pg. 102 Pozole Blanco pg. 103 Cristina Lugo Soto pg. 104 Paneéd Flounder pg. 105 Linton Hopkins

pg. 108 Chicken Wings

pg. 110 Apple Mille-Feuille pg. 111 Jen Yee pg. 112 Tortelloni pg. 113 Bruce Logue pg. 114 Scallop Crudo pg. 115 Carla Fears pg. 116 Short Ribs pg. 117 Gerry Klaskala pg. 118 Chocolate Hazelnut Budino pg. 119 Christopher Fraley pg. 120 Japchae pg. 121 Jiyeon Lee pg. 122 Comte Crepe pg. 123 Jeb Aldrich pg. 124 Yellowtail Sashimi pg. 125 Jason Liang

pg. 106 Grilled Okra 273

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pg. 126 Farmhouse Fried Chicken

pg. 145 Chrysta Poulos

pg. 127 Nicolas Bour

pg. 146 Spaghetti

pg. 128 Fufu Gnudi

pg. 147 Craig Richards

pg. 129 Cleophus Hethington

pg. 148 Pavlova with Cherries

pg. 130 Kurobuta Pork T-bone

pg. 149 Kristen Belan

pg. 131 Thomas McKeown

pg. 150 Spatchcock Chicken

pg. 132 Duck

pg. 151 Samone Lett

pg. 133 Maricela Vega

pg. 152 Southern French Toast

pg. 134 Prime Porterhouse

pg. 153 Stacey Eames

pg. 135 Kevin Rathbun

pg. 154 Oxtail Kare-kare

pg. 136 Sugar Cream Pie

pg. 155 Amor Mia Oriño

pg. 137 Zeb Stevenson

pg. 156 Lamb Dumplings

pg. 138 Kitfo

pg. 157 Shay Lavi

pg. 139 Yohana Solomon

pg. 158 Chai-dulcey Mousse

pg. 140 Pompano

pg. 159 Claudia Martínez

pg. 141 Terry Koval

pg. 160 Kali cake

pg. 142 Bouillabaisse

pg. 161 Karen Portaleo

pg. 143 Gerry Garvin

pg. 162-251 recipes

pg. 144 Sunday Biscuits

pg. 252-253 Shay Lavi table spread

pg. 255 chef references pg. 259 conversion chart pg. 262-263 glossary pg. 266-267 resources pg. 277 epilogue, written by Taria Camerino pg. 279-280 about the author, written by Jess Izard Inside back cover Lake Clara Meer at Piedmont Park, photo

by Gene Phillips

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EPILOGUE

If there appears to have been an agenda to this narrative, it has been purely personal.

Aside f rom exposing the rich and talented tapestry of this culinary scene, I hope you, the reader, the chef, the home cook, and the lover of food, experience the strong sense of community here in this city. The support for each other, the reliance on each other comes through on the plate. This city’s commitment to integrity in sourcing, in technique, and in mentorship is expressed in each dish, each restaurant, and each hand that has touched the lives of those fed.

Atlanta has long struggled with a resource allocation prejudice. By introducing you to the diverse and dedicated people in this community, I am naively hopeful that this will, at the very least, help to realign and direct the resources necessary to continue this great city’s desire for unparalleled growth and determination.

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR Taria Camerino stands just barely 5-feet-something f rom the ground, but her energy transcends quantif iable heights by leagues.

By form, she is a traditionally French trained chef. By nature, she f ractures into a student and teacher at every intersection of her talents. By desire, she distributes herself to community, city, region, and world. In this distribution, she contributes pieces of her, in the form of entrepreneur, visionary, maestro of all things cibarious and beautiful.

Her story is kaleidoscopic - motley in its vibrations and intensely hued.

The city was made more alive by her Sugarcoated Radical movement. Full of fun just in the name – a small storef ront in the historic Old Fourth Ward brimming with lollies and lines of folks, mostly on foot to nab a wild mushroom tartlet crunchy with bacon for brunch on a Sunday. Variegated types of Atlanta natives would cast their shadows upon SCR’s door to learn about hand-harvested cacao, in disparate lands, while it played on their palates, highlighted by pink peppercorns or some other unexpected yet perfectly appointed ingredient. The eye would never weary of the color schemes and revolutionary messaging Taria deftly installed for our entertainment and education.

A nearly intimidating f igure in the scope of her abilities, Taria demurs in her presentations f requently to provide audiences with comfort and nostalgia.

Summertime at The Optimist transported us all back to our childhood memories of chasing down ice cream trucks, when Taria’s dessert menu offered individually wrapped f rozen treats. They were a f itting complement to Ford Fry’s vision of a breezy boardwalk beach bar smack dab in the middle of sweltering concrete west Midtown.

I had the opportunity to enjoy Taria’s talents years ago during a chocolate and bourbon tasting, held in a small neighborhood coffee shop. The plates in f ront of the guests were epicurean works of art, but the conversations were as familiar and warm as the delicious oaked spirits paired with each course. In other words, Taria brings people together.

It is ever so humbling to be in the presence of someone like Taria, with so much to her credit, but who still enjoys the role of trainee, student, and channel for greatness of others.

In the past, parts of Taria ref racted overseas, with her ending up in Japan learning the tradition of wagashi, delicate pastries to serve with tea. Her eyes brim with tears when she recounts creating the small confections and presenting them to her teacher.

Wagashi does not use chocolate but upon experiencing Taria’s foraged chestnut and chocolate creation, her teacher told her with reverence, “This is wagashi.”

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After working a position as head pastry chef at the Tate Modern in London, Taria made her way back stateside. Several projects soon followed that would be so bold and innovative as to push every boundary of curation possible.

Taria teamed up with SAIAH Arts International, an award-winning organization dedicated to creating sensory immersive experiences, and every single time her menu was the underpinning to groundbreaking performances.

Their f irst major collaboration came as Terminus, an immersive experience into the South during the Civil War, inspired by Richard Adams’ pastoral novel, “Watership Down.” With three separate storylines within one performance, each was uniquely expressed on the plates shared with the viewers.

Akin to the prism that takes in white light but is able to communicate scarlet, sienna, canary, turquoise, and violet – Taria is the light master. The prism does this conversion within itself so that we may enjoy harlequin patterns.

In her next collaboration, the audience was invited into the secret world of Milk, a traveling restaurant group similarly dedicated to performances based on the interdependent nature of artists, chefs, and audience. Using food as language, Taria created a menu that captured the experience of gain, loss, and, simply put, the end of a signif icant relationship or, more accurately, the end of a life you once thought you were supposed to have. Her tears, each one crystallizing into a different signature energy, salted a gold tomato gelee, which was to be consumed alongside champagne to incite the feeling of reverence. If one was lucky enough to ingest this course, one may have devoured Taria’s memories extending far past this short biography.

Now, Taria is ref racting into print.

Much like Taria, this book will be diff icult to quantify in that it will be unlike any publication currently on the market. Set upon a wavelength often missed by many, this will be a seminal project in Taria’s lexicon to bring together all of the colors of her inf inite spectrum of experience and purpose.

Formed. Separated. Distributed.

Jess Izard, Restaurant & Hospitality Operations Consultant

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FEARLESS INNOVATION Atlanta’s Food Story Taria Camerino