Found just south of Durban, stretching along the 120km coastline from Scottburgh through to the Wild Coast, is the beautiful KZN South Coast. Known as the Paradise of the Zulu Kingdom, the region provides adventure seekers with a range of options across its extensive range of topographical locations. From those wanting a thrilling encounter with wildlife through to those seeking a more sedate experience on the greens, there’s a memorable experience for everyone!
DIVE ADVENTURES Tourists flock to the KZN South Coast to experience some of the best diving at its two world-class dive sites, Aliwal Shoal and Protea Banks. Both sites are Marine Protected Areas, established to support healthy marine ecosystems which are home to a variety of marine life such as sharks, whales, turtles, rays, king fish, yellow fin tuna and barracuda. There are local dive charters catering to scuba diving, shark cage diving, freediving or even snorkelling!
For the ultimate ‘bucket-list’ dive experience, it’s best to visit in the (slightly) cooler winter months for a chance to witness the ‘Greatest Shoal on Earth’. The Sardine Run is an annual occurrence and a natural global phenomenon where millions of silver fish head north, chased by sea birds, whales, sharks and other hungry marine life. It’s a spectacle to behold!
HINTERLAND EXCURSIONS Venturing inland, visitors can enjoy a cultural hinterland excursion which includes hiking, biking and driving along the forest-based KwaNzimakwe Multi-Trails. Discover local living with the Nyandezulu Experience or unearth centuries-old San paintings on the KwaXolo Caves Adventures. Discover African history through storytelling, artwork and performances at Ntelezi Msani Heritage Centre.
AGRICULTURAL TOURS Then there’s the farm-fresh KZN South Coast Agri-CULTURE Tours, a rarefied agricultural experience that gives visitors a taste of the local farming lifestyle. There are six stops on this tour where adventurers can sample delicious coastal produce, from the organically grown Heritage tomatoes to freshly roasted coffees. Hiking, biking, fishing and other family-fun adventures can be enjoyed with this option.
GOLF OUTINGS Those who prefer to unwind on the greens will not be disappointed on ‘The Golf Coast’ – as it’s colloquially known! The region is home to 11 iconic golf courses extending from Scottburgh to Port Edward and inland to Harding. Golfers will follow the white ball as they wind through indigenous forests, overlooking farmlands, nature reserves and the Indian Ocean. While coastal breezes can make for some challenging conditions, the real hazard is getting lost in the natural beauty! From Selborne Park Golf Estate, one of country’s premium residential golf estates, through to the Wild Coast Sun Country Club, a Top 10 course in South Africa - there’s a green for every golfer.
THE OUTDOORS ARE IN SO HEAD TO THE KZN SOUTH COAST, WHERE ADVENTURE AWAITS!
#kznsouthsoast #outdoorsarein #subtropicalparadise
To find out more download the free EXPLORE KZN SOUTH COAST app from
offers the best adventures From sea to land, KZN South Coast Contact us on 039 682 7944 or visit our website for more information on our venues and great destinations!
The
Blue Train
LOCATION
WHY CHOOSE THE BLUE TRAIN?
• A must-do product on your first visit to South Africa
• An icon of South Africa for over 70 years—one of the world’s great rail journeys
• A unique experience with a strong heritage —the ultimate and crowning jewel in your South African holiday—far more enjoyable than spending time between cities, queuing at airports
• A perfect link between Cape Town and the Kruger National Park
• Great value: 31-hour ‘forced relaxation’ on the Pretoria to Cape Town route—inclusive of 24-hour butler service, all meals and drinks, off-the-train excursions (weather and time permitting), minimum laundry service, cognacs and genuine Cuban cigars and a complimentary night’s stay at a 5-star hotel (pre- or post your Blue Train trip)
• An inspired way to traverse through South Africa and experience contrasting views of the beautiful South African countryside, with breath-taking views you would never see when you fly
The Blue Train depot is situated in the capital city of Pretoria, known as the City of Tshwane. Pretoria is also known as the Jacaranda City due to the large number of jacaranda trees that are planted on its streets, parks and gardens —a true spectacle to be enjoyed in full bloom during South Africa’s spring season (September to November).
PRE-DEPARTURE
Your holiday begins the moment you step into any of The Blue Train’s pre-departure lounges in Pretoria or Cape Town. Guests check in from 06h30. Boarding commences at 07h30 and platform gates close at 07h45 in preparation for the train’s departure. At the lounges, guests enjoy pre-departure morning beverages of teas and coffees, water and fruit juices. Pre-departure snacks, fruit and all other drinks are available on the train upon boarding.
2 African Safaris • Issue 43
The Blue Train in its charisma and majesty combines five-star accommodation with the charm and romance of train travel, and is considered one of the mustdo itineraries as part of your visit to Africa, especially for the first-time visitor.
THE BLUE TRAIN IS TRULY AN IDEAL WAY OF ‘FORCED RELAXATION’, TO START OR END YOUR HOLIDAY
IN
SOUTH AFRICA.
So take a journey into a timeless world of grace and elegance, where breathtaking scenery stirs your imagination and luxurious comfort soothes body and soul. Sit back and enjoy being pampered on South Africa’s “Blue Jewel”.
The Pre-departure Lounge in Pretoria is in the vicinity and is a few metres away from the Gautrain Pretoria Station. The Gautrain is South Africa’s premier rapid rail and bus service that provides a fast, safe and cost-effective link between OR Tambo International Airport and nine key business hubs between Johannesburg and Tshwane (Pretoria), including Sandton.
The Blue Train’s Pre-departure Lounge in Cape Town is nestled up at Cape Town railway station, the main railway station of the “Mother City”, as the city of Cape Town is affectionately known.
OUR ROUTES
The Blue Train travels this 1 600km (994 mile) journey in just 31 hours, and is ideal for those visitors who have shorter itineraries in South Africa. Southbound, the off-thetrain excursion (weather and time permitting) includes the diamond town of Kimberley where one can explore the Big Hole and the
Diamond Museum. Northbound, guests visit the historical town of Matjiesfontein where the Victoria buildings and original 19th century London lampposts impart to the traveller the uncanny sense of entering a colonial time warp—an oasis suspended in a different age.
The Blue Train also travels to South Africa’s Limpopo Province, which is home to the Kruger National Park, one of the world’s finest game parks and home to Africa’s Big Five. These one-way 19-hour journeys take place on selected months of the year, and offer guests an opportunity of some fantastic new ‘rail safari’ combination packages with the many private safari lodges found in the Greater Kruger and Sabi Sands areas.
ACCOMMODATION
Comparable to the world’s finest hotels, each suite on board the train offers 5-star luxurious accommodation with private en-suite bathroom facilities.
The luxury element on board the train is accentuated by personalised butler service.
De Luxe Suites measure 8m2 of space and offer twin beds with showers (most suites on the train offer this option) or double beds with a three-quarter sized bath. The same suite is a lounge area by day, which is converted into a comfortable bedroom during the night.
Luxury Suites are the premier suites and measure 10.26m2. They have a Blu-Ray DVD player and offer twin beds or double beds with full-sized baths. The same suite is also a lounge area by day and is converted into a comfortable bedroom during the night.
Tel: +27(0) 12 334-8459 (Pretoria) +27(0) 21 449-2672 (Cape Town) Email: info@bluetrain.co.za Website: www.bluetrain.co.za
Issue 43 • African Safaris 3
The Franschhoek Motor Museum is a world class facility situated on the L’Ormarins Estate in the majestic Franschhoek Valley, which is a 1 hour/75 kilometres drive from central Cape Town. The museum’s Cape Dutch architecture reflects the area’s origins and exhibition space covers 2 700 m2. Set amongst some expansive lawns, four spacious display halls are dehumidified to preserve the ageing machinery and each holds around 20 vehicles at any one time, all mounted on individual plinths that allow clear viewing. Collectively, the halls offer visitors a special opportunity to take a luxury ride down memory lane looking at almost 120 years of motoring history through regularly changing themed displays of vehicles, motorcycles, bicycles and memorabilia.
The birth of the museum’s collection took place in 1974 with the establishment of a transport museum at the Heidelberg railway station in Gauteng. Initiated and backed by local entrepreneur and conservationist Dr Anton Rupert, his enthusiasm and appreciation of the automobile led to an ongoing acquisition of a large number of vehicles both individually and from other collections, which ultimately led to a decision in 2004 to relocate the museum’s contents to the family’s estate in Franschhoek. Dr Rupert passed away in 2006, shortly before the new museum was opened on 7 May 2007, but his equally auto-enthusiast son Johann has continued to develop the museum’s eminence.
This superb 300+ collection of vehicles, most of which are in show condition, represents a living tribute to one family’s passion for the automobile.
4 African Safaris • Issue 43
Visit us at the L’Ormarins Wine Estate in Franschhoek R80 adults | R60 pensioners | R60 motor club members | R40 children (3-12yrs) BY APPOINTMENT ONLY Visit our website for convenient online booking +27 (0) 21 874 9002 | fmm@fmm.co.za | www.fmm.co.za | Follow us: f Franschhoek Motor Museum celebrates the harnessing of original horsepower into over 100 years of motoring history
Explore what the City of uMhlathuze has in store for you!
City of uMhlathuze likes to thank you in advance for considering it as your playground and chosen holiday destination. Our tranquil ambience and natural scenic views, gentle sea breeze and total relaxation are exactly what you need for your body and mind during these unpredictable Covid-19 epochs.
We welcome the opportunity to make your good memories and wait to fulfil your imaginable expectations through our offerings. The Sizzle City has a lot at your disposal to make your short left a memorable one and an experience you are longing for.
Spend time with us to unwind, reflect and reboot. Sizzle City offers the tranquility that will stimulate your creative juices and think through your new endeavours amid the pandemic. The City of uMhlathuze is blessed with a magnificent natural environment, and the daily lifestyle enjoyed by residents of the City and its surrounds is the envy of people both nationally and internationally.
We are blessed with a wonderful climate. Our summers are sizzling hot and our winters are mild (some might say ‘warm’ in comparison with other places).
Our sea temperatures, too, seldom require the use of wetsuits, while our endless stretches of coastline, warm beaches and inland waters mean we have almost year-round access to the most wonderful water sports and leisure activities.
We enjoy swimming, angling, boating, body boarding, sailing, canoeing, spearfishing, kite boarding, paddling and many more water-based activities throughout the year. Added to that are whale- and dolphinwatching and deep-sea fishing (we are one of the finest marlin meccas in the country).
TAKE A SHORT-LEFT TO THE SIZZLE CITY 6 African Safaris • Issue 43
But we have much more to offer than sun, surf, flat water areas and a landscape that lends itself to adventure tourism. Being in the heart of the Zulu kingdom, we have an abundance of places of historic and cultural importance in our brag book—and if we are more inclined to explore other avenues of nature, we pack our binoculars and cameras and head off to do some birding or take a trip to a number of game parks within an hour’s drive. We pride ourselves for harbouring the Thula-Thula Game Reserve where you can have a conversation with elephants and many other special wildlife creatures.
Add to those royal heritage excursions, visits to significant struggle sites and a package that includes our ever-growing township tours, which already have grabbed the imagination of passengers from visiting cruise liners. And, far from being a hindrance to tourism, our massive industries are in themselves attractions, as ‘industrial tourism’ lures students to see some of the biggest operations of their kind in the world.
Welcome to the fast growing city in KwaZulu-Natal. The City of uMhlathuze is eagerly waiting to make your stay an unforgettable experience.
N 1 N 2 N N 14 10 N N N N 14 N N N 11 2 N 14 Itala N.R. Umlalazi N.R. Albert Falls Game Reserve Hluhluwe Upington Kuruman Klerksdorp Kimberley CAPE TOWN PORT ELIZABETH EAST LONDON UMTATA DURBAN Mtunzini St Lucia Ladysmith BLOEMFONTEIN Nelspruit PRETORIA JOHANNESBURG PIETERMARIT ZBURG SOUTH AFRICA Kruger National Park Hluhluwe Tembe Elephant Park Richards Bay 16 16 12 08 16 11 09 11 15 10 10 10 20 10 11 25 15 12 POLOKWANE May - August #ESCAPEWINTER
Stay, Work, Invest and Play in the SIZZLE CITY!
Special Features
26 Where to Next?
Post-pandemic travel: the trends we’ll see as the world opens up again
32
Namaste
The wellness tourism industry is evolving rapidly, also in sub-Saharan Africa, as travellers put more emphasis on healthy lifestyles
Contents
ISSUE 43
8 African Safaris • Issue 43
Visit us at the L’Ormarins Wine Estate in Franschhoek R80 adults | R60 pensioners | R60 motor club members | R40 children (3-12yrs) BY APPOINTMENT ONLY Visit our website for convenient online booking +27 (0) 21 874 9002 | fmm@fmm.co.za | www.fmm.co.za | Follow us: f Franschhoek Motor Museum celebrates the harnessing of original horsepower into over 100 years of motoring history
Local is Lekker
38
Eat, Stay, Love
Top-class hotels, stunning views, great food and wine… All this and more awaits gastronomes on a culinary journey through the Garden Route
58
Solace in the Solitude Tswalu private game reserve in the Kalahari offers what discerning travellers crave most: space and time
62
Fun for All
The popular holiday spot of Chintsa on the Wild Coast has something for every kind of traveller: game enthusiast, birdwatcher, water sport junkie, wellness seeker or backpacker
44
Out There
For a holiday with a difference, stay at these unique South African properties—from mountainsides and treetops to trailers and rondavels
50
The Train on the Bridge Top seven things to know about Kruger Shalati, a truly unique hotel
52
A Short Escape
Even though we’re still caught in the middle of a pandemic, you can enjoy a staycation in your own city and get away from all the stress—just for a little while.
Contents
ISSUE 43
10 African Safaris • Issue 43
Contents ISSUE 43 Regulars 14 From the editor 22 Conservation: Guardians of Nature What is the purpose of a safari field guide in conservation? 96 Subscriptions Local is Lekker 82 Trailing Giants Clues from the Tarangire ecosystem in Tanzania as to how people and giraffes can thrive together 68 Hit the Road The Panorama Route, which runs along the Blyde River Canyon, is a popular travel destination for those seeking a self-drive adventure with plenty viewpoints along the way 76 Beat around the Bush Have an authentic African adventure in a serene location out in the Hluhluwe wilderness Into Africa 88 Adventure Time Get ready for a camping experience like no other in the best locations in Namibia, from desert to coast to canyon 12 African Safaris • Issue 43
Dream, travel, Discover T: + 27 ( 0 ) 33 845 1000 E: b ook i n g s@k z n wildli fe.co m O n li ne b ook i n g : b ook i n gs .k z n wildlif e.com We b: www .k z n wildlif e.co m Feel the thrill of game sightings, smell the new dawn, be part of wild Africa ... The accommodation is clean and comfortable; the experiences vivid. Treat yourself to a wild experience in a KZN bushveld game reserve, only a few hours drive from Durban or Johannesburg. Conservation, Partnerships & Ecotourism Ezemvelokznwildlife @ezemvelokznwildlife Live for the moments you t can Wo rds put into '
Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park
Park
Hilltop Resort,
Mpila Resort, Hluhluwe-iMfolozi
Giant’s Castle Resort, Maloti-Drakensberg Park
Thendele Resort, Maloti-Drakensberg Park
Midlands Our Resorts Include:
Didima Resort, Maloti-Drakensberg Park Midmar Resort, KZN
From the Editor
Platteklip Gorge, oh Plattekloof Gorge...
What did you disgorge? If only I had heeded the wise words of Dirty Harry Callaghan at the end of Magnum Force: “A man’s got to know his limitations.”
The day had started off so well. Using my free birthday ticket, I ascended Cape Town’s iconic Table Mountain in high spirits. Today I’d finish what I had started last year.
Twelve months earlier, I had floated to the top of the Mother City’s magnificent backdrop via its cable car. The idea had been to ramble its magnificent flatness and capture some enduring memories on my trusty Canon 400D. After a few minutes, plans changed when I discovered Maclear’s Beacon—on the eastern end on the plateau of the mountain—was a mere 40 minutes over some very level terrain.
The trip there done and dusted, I gave in to temptation. I convinced myself that hiking to the beacon and descending the gorge also would be a fine day’s work. So, I descended. After about 30 metres, the howling wind convinced me that discretion was the better part of valour. So I left that challenge for another day. This year, I said, would be different. Once again I made the trip to Maclear’s Beacon but, despite not feeling as fresh
as last year, I decided to push on with the descent. “How hard could it be walking downhill?”
I asked myself. Now, I’m not the fittest specimen around, but I’m no novice hiker—and being midway through the cricket season, I felt I could do this.
About 100m down (I know this thanks to an ascending pair of Dutch hikers), my legs began to strain. Seeing the steep set of stairs behind me, it seemed the better choice was to keep heading down. If only Sophie had had it this easy.
I’ll never know what might have been if I’d turned back. What I do know is that it was excruciating, with regular rest breaks needed, sometimes as often as every two minutes. Fortunately, I had enough water and food. Nonetheless, I should’ve heeded Harry’s advice and known my limits. Beautiful though it may be, Table Mountain is treacherous. Take care, and know your limits.
14 African Safaris • Issue 43
Donovan Abrahams
Ashley van Schalkwyk ashley@avengmedia.co.za
Tania Griffin tania@avengmedia.co.za
Christine Siljeur
Katerina Antoniou Monica Bond
Tania Griffin Charmaine Harry Theo van der Mortel unsplash.com pexels.com freepik.com
Donovan Abrahams
Denise Burgess Kay Davids Wendy Scullard Marc Wessels
Majdah Rogers Ashley van Schalkwyk Benita Abrahams
Colin Samuels Majdah Rogers
Print on
www.africansafarisint.co.za www.magzter.com Donovan
Demand
Abrahams
PUBLISHER EDITOR CHIEF SUB-EDITOR DESIGN EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS PHOTOGRAPHIC SOURCES SALES DIRECTOR ADVERTISING SALES ONLINE CO-ORDINATORS ACCOUNTS HR MANAGER CLIENT LIAISON PRINTER DISTRIBUTION DIRECTORS PUBLISHED BY Address: Boland Bank Building, 5th Floor, 18 Lower Burg Street, Cape Town, 8000 Tel: 021 418 3090 | Fax: 021 418 3064 Email: majdah@avengmedia.co.za Website: www.mother&child.co.za DISCLAIMER: © 2021 African Safaris magazine is published by Aveng Media (PTY) Ltd. The Publisher and Editor are not responsible for any unsolicited material. All information correct at time of print. THE TEAM
Colin Samuels Aveng Media (Pty) Ltd
The original Eco-adventure Canopy Tour in the Magaliesberg, professionally operated and unequalled by any of its rivals.
Experience the 2,400-million-year-old Magaliesberg on a unique canopy tour through the Ysterhout Kloof. The Magaliesberg Canopy Tour consists of eleven (11) platforms built high within the rock faces of the kloof and joined by ten (10) slides up to 140m long and 30m above the stream below.
Trained guides assure the safety each client while describing interesting facts about ancient mountain, surrounding ecology, bird, and animal life. This is where your unforgettable, unmatchable adventure begins- enjoy flying through nature.
It’s fun, safe and will be the talking point at your breakfast table for weeks afterwards. The Magaliesberg Canopy Tour is ideal for the individual thrill seeker, family getaways, groups or student excursions and Corporate Team Builds.
Anyone aged 5 years and upwards can participate excluding expecting mothers.
We cater for the following:
• Individual Thrill seeker
• Family/Group getaways
• Birthday vouchers
• School Excursions
• Team Building & Corporate Year end functions
• Marriage Proposals on the zipline platforms
WHAT TO BRING
You should wear comfortable clothing and closed-toe footwear. Slip-slops are not suitable as they will simply fall off.
ENQUIRIES & BOOKING DETAILS:
Booking is essential
Shorts or long pants are fine but mini-skirts are not. Running shoes, takkies, and veldskoene are perfect and strap-on sandals will do.
Don’t forget to bring your camera as there are many excellent photo opportunities along the way and if you submit a photo to our “Photo of the Month” competition on our website you could win a free Canopy Tour.
WHAT’S INCLUDED?
Safety briefing
4×4 return trip
All equipment
Fully guided 2½ hour tour (10 slides, 11 platforms)
Telephone: 014 535 0150 / 079 492 0467
Email: info@magaliescanopytour.co.za Website: www.magaliescanopytour.co.za
Directions: It is only 1.5 hours from Johannesburg and Pretoria. Halfway between Harteespoort and Rustenburg in the heart of the Magaliesberg Mountains situated 7.5kms from Buffelspoort Dam.
GPS: S25 49’51’’ E27 24’43’’
Issue 43 • African Safaris 17
Specialists in the design, manufacture, installation and maintenance of customizable luxury tents and preferred supplier to safari camps, lodges and resorts across the globe.
Contact us today, together we can innovate and re-imagine authentic luxury getaways. +27(0)12 671 1073 / 1117 www.bushtecsafari.co.za info@bushtecsafari.co.za
THE ULTIMATE LUXURY TENT MANUFACTURER
BUSHTEC SAFARI
Guardians of Nature
What is the purpose of a safari field guide in conservation?
When I think about Africa, I think safari. I see people travelling from all over the world to view the magnificent wildlife and scenic game reserves only Africa can offer. Some people prefer to jump in their own vehicles and explore the wilderness on their own, while others feel more comfortable with a specialist guide by their side. The upside of taking a guided safari is that you’ll be entertained and educated for the entire duration of your safari. An interpretive safari tends to create meaningful and unexpected encounters when you least expect it.
More than meets the eye
For someone to become qualified as a safari field guide, they have to gain expansive knowledge about the environment and the organisms that live there. They have to learn all about animal behaviour to ensure a safe environment for their guests at all times, specifically when encountering dangerous game while out on safari. Not only do they have to keep their guests safe, they have to consider the impact of their activities on the environment. To be a safari guide is a privilege, but also a big responsibility.
For someone to choose a career as a guide, you need a passion for nature and wildlife. Once the passion is there, there’s no stopping anyone. With the right education
in place, a qualified safari field guide can make a big impact on the natural world. Every person who trains has experienced the natural world in its rawest form and will have changed because of this. Such a transformation encourages each prospective guide to prioritise nature in their lives and to become a passionate conservationist. The more people we have who think like that, the better the world will be.
How to become a qualified guide
To become a field guide, you have to obtain a valid qualification from an accredited training provider in your country. In South Africa, our guiding standards are set by the Field Guide Association of South Africa (FGASA) and, in turn,
there are many training providers who are endorsed by FGASA to provide the necessary training to prospective guides at the best possible standards. EcoTraining offers such a qualification—and as the longest standing field guide training provider in Africa, it has trained many incredible guides from all over the world who are currently working in the industry.
Hands-on, practical training forms the heart of EcoTraining’s courses, and it’s with this formula that students walk away with extensive knowledge and experience to take guests on an interpretive safari. While your education will be focused on the African bushveld, the perspective on life and nature that you’ll gain is one
22 African Safaris • Issue 43 CONSERVATION • Guiding
that’s missing from many modern societies. Simply put, it reminds us of the importance of natural spaces, how intricately linked they are with everything around us—and that no matter where we live in the world, these spaces are fundamental to the progression of life on this planet. EcoTraining focuses on reconnecting people to the bush by understanding the interrelatedness of the ecology.
The importance of an interpretive safari
As a training provider of field guide and nature courses, we get asked about conservation all the time. Environmental conservation is our core focus. It forms the foundation of all our courses and it’s the golden string that holds our company together.
An interpretive safari is more than just a guided experience—it’s about environmental education. As guides, we need to teach our guests the importance of protecting our environment and wildlife to ensure a sustainable future for generations to come. We have to teach our guests to appreciate nature and to learn from it. It will make them aware of and sensitive toward how human interferences have and can negatively impact on ecosystems. A guest has to walk away from your safari experience with a new outlook and appreciation for nature. If the guest walks away without a newfound love and passion for Africa, then the guide didn’t do a proper job.
The circle is complete Mission accomplished! Your guest returns home, whether it’s back to his/her place in Africa or somewhere very far away, but their newfound passion for wildlife is here to stay! Why? Because the safari field guide cared enough about the environment to teach others about the importance of protecting it. This deep connection with nature can’t be learnt from a textbook or taught by word-of-mouth. It requires physical and mental presence along with an openness to the whole experience. But once the lesson has been learnt, it’ll be with you for the rest of your life. You may learn this in the African bushveld—but no matter where you go, it’ll be with you.
A Guardian of Nature was created and the circle of life continues. The guest returns home and shares his knowledge with his family and friends and in turn creates a community of guardians around the world. It all starts with one safari and one person. Let the guiding begin!
For more information, visit www.ecotraining.co.za.
Issue 43 • African Safaris 23 Guiding • CONSERVATION
Top myths about Being a guide
3. Guests only want to see the Big 5.
1. You have to be experienced to be a great guide.
Simply put, no. Although experience is vital when it comes to animal behaviour, understanding your guests and maintaining a safe experience, it doesn’t mean that those with limited experience can’t be great guides or that they can’t have educated insights into a situation. The other aspect to remember here is that guiding is a rather diverse field where one can be an expert in one field and still be a complete novice in another. So, playing to your strengths is really important because we all have something we’re good at and there will undoubtedly be a place for your skillset as a guide. Just remember that you can always learn something new even if you’re the very definition of a bush person.
2. You have to be a people’s person to relate to your guests.
Guest interaction is what being a guide is all about. You need to connect with your guests in order to create a valuable experience as well as to maintain their safety. So it would only be natural for the more introvert-prone to feel that this may be the case, but it’s not. Guiding is so subjective, and because of this, even an introvert can host an amazing experience in the bush. Guests can see their guide’s connection to the natural landscape and they feed off that. As well as sharing these moments, they can create a strong connection between the guide and their guests. Used effectively, this connection can truly create magical experiences no matter what the guiding style.
Okay, so there may be some truth to this. But guests who only want to see the Big 5 usually don’t know what the bushveld truly has to offer—and often it’s up to the guides to bring out their guests’ natural curiosity. One of the greatest lessons to learn when becoming a guide is the concept of linking: where the guide finds parts of the bush that link to the animal in question. For example, showing guests the rub marks on a marula tree. Explaining what the tree is and how elephants love their fruits links perfectly into the original mission of finding an elephant while still showing your guests something they may not be aware of. By doing this, you can build up hype before seeing the animal, or simply get the guests to see something new and unique that may end up being their focus for the remainder of the trip.
24 African Safaris • Issue 43 CONSERVATION • Guiding
There is no easy way to put this, but locals tend to have an easier time at getting employed as a bush guide. This is mainly due to the visa issues that most foreigners have to work around and is not an indication of their skillset or competency as a guide. That being said, being a foreigner has immense benefits in the guiding world, as it can be one of the most underrated skills that a guide can have: relatability. A guide who understands his/ her guests, knows their culture and is easy to connect with is often a more relatable guide and one who tends to have a far greater impact on the guests’ experience. It’s all about playing into your strengths, and that means not all great guides are local. It also means that by being a local guide, you can improve your guests’ experience by getting to know the cultures that are foreign to you.
5. Guiding can be lonely.
It’s not often something we think about when becoming a guide, but the potential to be feeling slightly alone in an environment based around isolation can be a little concerning for some.
The long and short of it is that when we find ourselves in an environment with limited connection, we can put ourselves in a lonely space. But living in the bush can actually be one of the greatest experiences of your life. For starters, you’re surrounded with many like-minded individuals who are relatable in some form or another because you both chose to work in an environment that celebrates wildlife. The other aspect to consider is the animals you’ll connect with. The more time you spend in an area, the better you’ll get to know your animal counterparts—and in time you can form quite strong and meaningful connections with these amazing animals.
One of the more controversial myths to talk about. It can be quite scary to become a guide, especially if you’re pivoting from a pre-existing career. You may ask yourself: how far can a guide actually go? To be honest, a lot further than you may think. There are many ways to view this, but in terms of career path, it’s quite literally what you make of it. Some are happy being in a standard guiding position for their career, whereas others diversify. Some start a more media-focused journey or look at private guiding, and some may even leave the guiding world altogether. Now I know what you’re thinking: If you leave the guiding world, that would mean the career path is limited. But it’s the network that you generate as a guide that ultimately determines your career path. There’s genuinely no limit to your path here—and just like the field itself, it’s about your skillset and what you’re willing to put in to create your version of success.
4. Guiding is only for locals.
6. Guiding has a limited career path.
Issue 43 • African Safaris 25 Guiding • CONSERVATION
to next?Where
Post-pandemic travel: the trends we’ll see as the world opens up again
By Katerina Antoniou
26 African Safaris • Issue 43 SPECIAL FEATURE • Travel Trends
By the time the pandemic ends, the days of choosing holidays based on destination or attractions will be over.”
Issue 43 • African Safaris 27
Trends • SPECIAL FEATURE
Travel
COVID-19 continues to affect travel by forcing governments to impose countryspecific bans and restrictions. As vaccination programmes roll out, however, many of us hope to travel again at some point in the near future, even if not immediately.
With that in mind, what are the factors that will shape our travel decisions in a post-pandemic era?
Post-COVID tourism
Although significant restrictions are still in place, travel agency adverts have become more frequent recently. According to reports, holiday bookings have once again begun to soar as people look beyond lockdowns.
COVID-19 related travel conditions will complicate holidays for the foreseeable future, including potential measures like requiring people to be vaccinated. The fear is that this will limit foreign travel options for those who haven’t received the vaccine. It may even affect people’s ability to travel domestically. Economic issues will also affect travel globally, since so many people have lost income during the pandemic.
These challenges will shape our decisions when it comes to choosing a holiday. By the time the pandemic ends, the days of choosing holidays based on destination or attractions will be over. Instead, the industry and travellers alike will be much more concerned with personal needs.
Faced with the desire to travel and practical obstacles against it, people are expected to make more considered travel choices. Tourists in the post-COVID era will be less willing to compromise on their next trip. They will have much higher expectations of hospitality service providers and be much more demanding. In order to keep up, the industry should prioritise offering services, facilities and experiences that cater to wellness, health and overall well-being. They will need to focus on high hygiene standards, which tourists are expected to covet.
It won’t be surprising to see trends like health tourism, wellness tourism, spiritual and potentially religious tourism rising in popularity, too. Thanks to the pandemic, tourists are paying more attention than ever to these needs—whether they’re urgent health concerns, luxury treatments, or the pursuit of physical, intellectual and spiritual wellness after over a year of living with restrictions.
28 African Safaris • Issue 43 SPECIAL FEATURE • Travel Trends
Human-oriented tourism
According to tourism academic Fabio Carbone, post-COVID tourism is also expected to focus more on people than destinations. Those eager to get away from measures like social distancing will likely use travel to embrace existing relationships with loved ones living abroad or seek new encounters. Carbone suggests that because of this, post-COVID tourism will pivot toward prioritising human development, dialogue and peace.
Volunteer tourism , or voluntourism, is a niche tourist activity that essentially means volunteering in a foreign destination. Although some question whether it positively contributes to developing countries and underprivileged communities, voluntourism has generated valuable humanitarian work. With economic fallout from the COVID-19 pandemic having hit developing countries more severely, effective voluntourism isn’t only desired—it’s necessary.
Peace tourism , on the other hand, refers to an interest in visiting specific destinations in order to either examine how peace is developed and celebrated there through research or studies, or contribute to a destination’s efforts to establish peace after conflict. Peace tourism typically involves visiting peace memorials or conflict zones with the aim of learning from the mistakes of past wars and helping to resolve or prevent existing conflict.
Examples of peace tourism activities include educational field trips to sites such as the Berlin Wall Memorial and the Hiroshima Peace Park. It may also take the form of attending workshops and conferences among conflictresolution professionals or going on guided peace walks that delve into histories of achieving or searching for peace. Visiting famous peace artworks and peace-themed
exhibitions, as well as festivals and performances, are also considered peace tourism activities.
The tourism industry has a unique opportunity to reflect on its future. If it wants to make an impact, it needs to prioritise providing quality, affordable experiences and putting customers first. Whenever travel resumes in the post-pandemic world, promoting specific destinations and landmarks will no longer make sense. It may be difficult in the face of restrictive and ever changing travel corridors, but the travel industry has little choice but to remodel holidays around catering to our wants and desires.
Katerina Antoniou is a lecturer in Tourism at the University of Central Lancashire
Popular types of tourism are therefore likely to include: travel for visiting friends and relatives, volunteer tourism as well as peace tourism.
TheConversation.com 30 African Safaris • Issue 43 SPECIAL FEATURE • Travel Trends
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32 African Safaris • Issue 43 SPECIAL FEATURE • Wellness Tourism
The wellness tourism industry is evolving rapidly, also in sub-Saharan Africa, as travellers put more emphasis on healthy lifestyles
aste
Wellness tourism is travel associated with the pursuit of maintaining or enhancing one’s personal well-being.
Estimated at $639.4 billion in 2017, wellness tourism is a fast-growing tourism segment that has been growing by 6.5% annually from 2015 to 2017 (more than twice the growth rate for general tourism).
Travellers made 830 million wellness trips in 2017, which is 139 million more than in 2015.
Growth has been driven by an expanding global middle class, growing consumer desire to adopt a wellness lifestyle, rising interest in experiential travel, and increasing affordability of flights and travel options.
The wellness tourism market includes two types of travellers: primary wellness travellers, who are motivated by wellness to take a trip or choose their destination based on its wellness offerings (e.g. someone visiting a wellness resort or participating in a yoga retreat); and secondary wellness travellers, who seek to maintain wellness or engage in wellness activities during any kind of travel (e.g. someone who visits a gym, gets a massage, or prioritises healthy food when they take a trip).
The bulk of wellness tourism is done by secondary wellness travellers, who account for 89% of wellness tourism trips and 86% of expenditures in 2017. Secondary wellness tourism also continues to grow at a faster rate than primary wellness tourism: at 10%, compared to 8% annually, from 2015 to 2017.
The $639.4 billion spent globally by wellness travellers is distributed among many segments of the tourism industry, from food and lodging to activities, excursions and shopping, among other services.
Within each segment, some expenditures may include wellness-focused activities (such as visiting a hot spring, getting a massage, or taking a meditation or fitness class), while other expenditures may be ‘generic’ (such as transportation, general food and lodging, or buying souvenirs).
As more consumers incorporate wellness into their lifestyles, there are many opportunities for all businesses to infuse wellness into their offerings and capture spending by wellness travellers.
Issue 43 • African Safaris 33 Wellness Tourism • SPECIAL FEATURE
Wellness, hospitality and travel converging
Since wellness tourism burst into mainstream consumer consciousness a few years ago, the industry has evolved rapidly. Businesses and governments are investing in developing new strategies, products, experiences and destinations. Wellness, hospitality and travel are converging in diverse and unprecedented ways as businesses experiment with new partnerships and business models to help travellers incorporate wellness into every aspect of their trips.
Fly healthy and fly well Recognising that air travel can be unhealthy and stressful, airports and airlines are promoting health and wellness programmes for their customers. Collaborations among airports, airlines and wellness businesses are taking many forms: high-end spas, fitness centres and wellness classes in terminals and airline lounges; in-flight meditation, wellness programming and sleep aides; healthier food options; and even healthier/biophilic airport design.
Healthy hotels go mainstream.
As wellness travel becomes more mainstream, many hotels are incorporating wellness into their design, amenities, services and programming. Wellness features may include bedding and lighting that promote better sleep; windows and shades that block out light and noise; in-room fitness equipment and videos; healthy snacks and menus at restaurants; or onsite spas and gyms. Acquisitions, partnerships and collaborations between hospitality companies and fitness, spa and other wellness brands are increasingly common. An emerging trend is the adoption of wellness architecture, biophilic design and sustainability elements into the entire design of the property.
Engineering wellness travel experiences. Consumers increasingly view vacations as an opportunity to experience wellness in new ways, and businesses from cruise lines to tour operators and event organisers are engineering diverse new wellness travel experiences. A number of cruise lines are partnering with wellness industry experts and service providers to raise the quality and sophistication of
their wellness offerings or to create wellness-themed voyages.
Wellness products and brands travel with their customers. As wellness routines become a daily lifestyle for many consumers, products and brands are following their customers on their travels to help them continue these routines wherever they go (e.g. Westin partnering with Peloton). Some retail and product companies are extending their wellness-minded brands into experiences, such as offering wellness retreats for their customers.
A new nexus of travel, work and wellness. For those who want to experience a country for a longer duration than the standard vacation, companies such as Roam, Outsite, The Remote Experience and others are offering a combination of co-working, co-living and travel—enabling people to experience other countries and cultures while working and living with like-minded individuals for a week, a month or longer. Many provide on-site wellness/fitness amenities, yoga classes, meditation and other community events.
34 African Safaris • Issue 43 SPECIAL FEATURE • Wellness Tourism
Several African countries are actively promoting wellness tourism, including Mauritius, Namibia, South Africa and Tanzania—primarily focusing on spa offerings to diversify from the traditional safari or beach tourism for international visitors.
While ‘spafaris’ (high-end safari lodges that offer spas services) have been around for a while, many destinations have moved from a spa/pampering focus to holistic wellness, adding offerings such as ‘mindfulness safaris’, ‘yoga in the wilderness’ and ‘body treatments in the bush’, and incorporating local ingredients and treatments/therapies rooted in African traditions.
All across Africa, from island resort destinations (e.g. Seychelles, Mauritius, Madagascar) to the southern and eastern African nations strong in the safari/ wildlife/ecotourism niche, destinations are adding wellness offerings to their product mix.
There has also been tremendous growth in the number of wellness retreats and yoga retreats in Africa, combining wellness with complementary travel interests in the eco, adventure, spiritual and cultural categories.
Overall, wellness tourism has the potential to offer enormous economic, social, conservation and branding benefits to the African continent. Tourism has long been an ambassador industry for any country or region. With its focus on holistic health, healing and
authentic experiences, wellness tourism highlights and promotes a country’s strengths that are rooted in nature, culture, heritage and traditions.
With wellness experiences increasingly linked to the wellness of the place, wellness tourists are more aware of and interested in what each destination has to offer, the local people and their communities. Therefore, it will be important in Africa to ensure wellness tourism development is aligned with the development needs of local communities and brings benefits in all aspects (economic, social, environmental etc.).
Extracted from the Global Wellness Institute report, “Global Wellness Tourism Economy: Sub-Saharan Africa” (November 2018)
Issue 43 • African Safaris 35 Wellness Tourism • SPECIAL FEATURE
The natural beauty and wilderness across this vast continent creates unique opportunities such as stargazing in Namibia, meditation among wildlife in Zambia, and long uninterrupted beach walks in Mozambique.
WELLNESS RETREATS across
southern Africa
Singita Sweni Lodge, Kruger, South Africa www.singita.com
Wellness treatments are performed in the tranquility of the spa, out on a private deck, or in the comfort of guest suites. Products used are carefully selected for their positive impact on both guests and the environment. Terres d’Afrique is a sustainably developed, organic, skincare range that harnesses the potency of Africa’s legendary botanical heritage.
andBeyond Bateleur Camp, Masai Mara, Kenya www.andbeyond.com
Guests are able to enjoy relaxing Healing Earth spa treatments in the intimate massage sala. There are two massage tables that allow for both couple and individual treatments, with incredible views. Next to the South Camp pool is a fully equipped, state-of-the-art exercise room; guests can work out with a view of giraffe, a herd of buffalo, plenty of warthogs and often elephant walking out on the plains.
Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge, Chobe, Botswana www.belmond.com
Pad across this eco-luxury camp to a quiet spot at the edge for one of the world’s most unique spa experiences. Breathe deeply and feel tensions melt away as you listen to the sounds of elephants in the distance. After your treatment, spend a few moments relaxing on the spa terrace, where the magical sights and sounds of the Savute channel will leave you fully restored.
andBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge, Namibia www.andbeyond.com
The lodge’s one-of-a-kind gym is elevated and ideally positioned to catch the desert sunrise while doing an early-morning yoga session or quick workout on the treadmill before breakfast. A two-part wellness centre offers a treatment room and a private spa-bath, as well as a wet treatment room with a shower and bath, complete with its own skylight for early-evening stargazing.
Royal Chundu Zambezi Island Lodge & River Lodge, Zambia www.royalchundu.com
Discover a sense of calm with natural and holistic treatments through the healing hands of local massage therapists. Treatments are enjoyed in the privacy of your own suite, indoors or out, with the gentle sounds of the Zambezi River playing a song of serenity throughout your spa experience.
Blue Zebra Island Lodge, Lake Malawi National Park, Malawi bluezebra.mw
The Island Spa is set under an ancient fig tree, at the water’s edge, with views over Lake Malawi. A range of massage therapies are on offer, as well as manicures and pedicures. The lodge also provides an ideal space for you to practise yoga on your balcony, overlooking the lake. Yoga weekends are held throughout the year.
Elephant’s Eye, Hwange, Zimbabwe www.hideawaysafrica.com
Guests can experience true relaxation and luxurious pampering deep in the heart of an African paradise at Jwapi, the lodge’s semi open-air spa. Rejuvenate the mind, body, and soul through a unique combination
of African and Western massage techniques using only eco-friendly products. Jwapi means “ground hornbill”, and this bird may be heard or observed while you have your treatment.
Thanda Island, District of Mafia Island, Tanzania www.thandaisland.com
Thanda Island invites you to enjoy simple, exquisite pleasures like strolling along your own private 1 100-metre beach. To enhance your wellness, you can participate in yoga and meditation sessions in the beautiful outdoor sala overlooking the ocean, or an exceptional spa experience including signature massages, facials and body treatments.
Zanzibar White Sand Luxury Villas & Spa www.whitesandvillas.com
A stay here offers an ideal setting for taking care of your mind and body. The fitness offer includes access to the outdoor fitness centre, free group activities ranging from aquagym to core workout sessions and relaxation, as well as private coaching sessions. The spa includes a tropical seating area with waterfall. Therapists use products by local communities and are based on seaweed, coconut and spices found in Zanzibar.
Bahia Mar Boutique Hotel, Vilanculos, Mozambique www.bahiamarclub.com
The hotel’s spa provides a range of treatments using organic, natural products to relax and revitalise. Yoga and Pilates provide both mind and body with holistic exercise, while the modern gym gives you the space for more strenuous workouts. The gym also offers a wide range of classes such as step-aerobics, circuit training and aqua-aerobics in the swimming pool.
36 African Safaris • Issue 43 SPECIAL FEATURE • Wellness Tourism
IT’S TIME TO CRUISE AGAIN
IT’S TIME TO CRUISE AGAIN
We are excited to be cruising AGAIN! This summer, we welcome vaccinated and non-vaccinated SA residents on MSC Orchestra on a journey of discovery around the Indian Ocean.
Our great value for money holidays include great family activities, onboard entertainment, a variety of shops, bars and restaurants. Your cruise holiday is closer than you think with departures available from Durban and Cape Town.
For more information, visit msccruises.co.za
With MSC Cruises tried and tested Health & Safety Protocol in place, we preserve a unique cruise experience for a stress-free holiday in a safe bubble Visit our website on msccruises.co.za for our current special offers and for more information on our health and safety measures.
Eat, Stay ,
DINING DIVERSIONS • Garden Route
By Charmaine Harry
Stretching all the way from Mossel Bay on the Cape South Coast to Port Elizabeth in the Eastern Cape is the extraordinary forested coastline known as the Garden Route. With the Indian Ocean on the one side and the mountains of the Outeniqua and Tsitsikamma on the other, you’re embraced by Mother Nature’s finest. It’s little wonder so many visitors converge on this verdant wonderland to find their new favourite holiday spot.
Now, the Garden Route also beckons gourmets in search of fine dining and fine wines—with stunning views and a welcoming atmosphere to complement their culinary experience. Here are a few Garden Route hotels that offer not only superb accommodations but also excellent South African fare to enjoy in this lovely part of the world.
Top-class hotels, stunning views, great food and wine… All this and more awaits gastronomes on a culinary journey through the Garden Route
www.theplettenberghotel.com Issue 43 • African Safaris 39 Garden Route • DINING DIVERSIONS
Love
The lifestyle resort of Fancourt lies on more than 600 hectares of pristine countryside, watched over by the Outeniqua Mountains. The luxurious suites will be a home away from home for families, couples and golfing enthusiasts alike. With all the leisure activities and spa treatments on offer here, you’re bound to work up an appetite.
Fancourt’s La Cantina restaurant serves modern Italian cuisine with a heaping of Mediterranean hospitality. “First we eat, then we do everything else” is its mantra. There’s a dish for everyone, from sophisticated flavours to simple favourites for the children. Start the day with a bountiful breakfast buffet and end it with a dinner that tastes like a dear old Nonna prepared it lovingly in her own kitchen.
Fresh ingredients play a leading role. Look out for palate pleasers like Pugliastyle burrata, house-made pancetta and forest mushrooms in popular Italian dishes such as insalata, risotto and, of course, pasta and wood-fired pizza. Don’t forget dessert! La Cantina’s tiramisu with Nutella is not to be missed.
Montagu Street, Blanco, George www.fancourt.co.za
Named after the famed Portuguese explorer and navigator who landed at Mossel Bay in 1488, the Diaz Beach Hotel is located right on the water’s edge—which means you’ll have spectacular views of the Indian Ocean from every window in your room and on the private balcony.
These views will also accompany your mealtimes at the hotel’s Bahia Bleu restaurant; have a seat outside and take in the sights of the beach and Outeniqua Mountains in the background, while inhaling the salt-tinged air. Has your appetite been whetted?
Whether it’s breakfast, lunch or dinner, the chefs here focus on fresh ingredients in the making of their contemporary cuisine—with a South African twist, naturally. They make use of locally sourced ingredients, fresh from the sea and the farm. Seafood is their speciality, cooking up memorable dishes including Mossel Bay sole, smoked salmon ceviche tacos, grilled kabeljou and giant tiger prawns. There’s also something for the meat lover (think Thai green curry with chicken, slow-braised beef cheeks and smoked pork neck steak) and the vegan, too: try the mushroom and truffle Israeli couscous.
6 Beach Boulevard East, Voorbaai, Mossel Bay diazbeach.co.za
Social Eatery at Knysna Hollow Country Estate
The 3ha Knysna Hollow Country Estate is a secluded sanctuary just a few minutes from the centre of town. Spacious garden suites are all elegantly decorated in green and blue hues that reflect the surrounding ocean and forest. These suites are connected via walkways that meander through lush areas of greenery, past the swimming pools, lounges, boules court and herb garden.
The stately Manor House is where you’ll find the sun deck, library, restaurant and bar. The Social Eatery offers simple yet flavourful menus created by executive chef Grant Ludski, using locally sourced ingredients. Lunches and dinners can be enjoyed inside or outside on the decks—or what about a special celebration in the restaurant’s unique barrel-vaulted private dining room? Wherever you opt to dine, you’ll be accosted by flavours that will linger.
What’s good food without great beverages to round out your culinary experience? At the Social Bar, you can sip on ice-cold local craft beers on tap, bespoke gin & tonics, or top-class South African wines from independent estates and premium aged wines from the hotel’s small wine cellar.
5 Welbedacht Lane, Kanonkop, Knysna www.knysnahollow.co.za www.fancourt.co.za; diazbeach.co.za; www.knysnahollow.co.za
La Cantina at Fancourt Estate, George
Bahia Bleu at Diaz Beach Hotel, Mossel Bay
40 African Safaris • Issue 43 DINING DIVERSIONS • Garden Route
Rosenhof Country House, Oudtshoorn
This 5-star establishment is a carefully renovated homestead that was originally built in around 1852. With its yellowwood beams and ceilings and antique furnishings, you’ll be swept up in the nostalgia of the country house. Named for the lovely rose gardens on the property, Rosenhof offers rooms that look out onto the floral bounty, plus executive suites with their own pool, lounge and patio from where you can take in the views of the Swartberg Mountain.
When you aren’t getting pampered at the wellness centre, burning the calories at the fully equipped gym, relaxing in the sauna, having a cup of tea in the gardens, or reading in front of the lounge fireplace, you can delight in the dishes served at the restaurants or grab a gourmet picnic basket.
Mornings are time for the buffet at The Breakfast Room, to be enjoyed indoors or outside in the manicured garden or under the gazebo. During the day, the chefs at The Country Kitchen cook up traditional Karoo meals for lunch, while dinner is a five-course table d’hôte menu with fresh seasonal produce and a good helping of small-town friendliness.
The Wine Bar provides pre-dinner drinks and nightcaps, while the Walk-in Cellar is stocked with top South African vintage wines to complement your meals.
264 Baron Van Reede Street, Oudtshoorn www.rosenhof.co.za
SeaFood Restaurant at The Plettenberg
If you’re seeking a luxurious seaside getaway at a 5-star establishment, with excellent dining and equally amazing views, look no further than The Plettenberg. The 35 beautifully appointed rooms and two familystyle villas boast vistas of sea, mountain and endless stretches of sand.
The views follow you to your dining table at SeaFood Restaurant. Seated inside, you can look out over the hotel’s swimming pool and the ocean beyond, while the outdoor terrace is ideal for al fresco mealtimes and sundowners. Here it’s all about the bounty of the bay, as emphasised in the restaurant’s name.
The chefs prepare innovative, sustainable seafood dishes with locally supplied seasonal ingredients. Signature dishes include the blackened tuna tataki and pan-fried sole, but the meat eaters have not been forgotten:
grass-fed beef fillet and Laingsburg lamb are among the favourites.
40 Church Street, Plettenberg Bay www.theplettenberghotel.com www.rosenhof.co.za; www.theplettenberghotel.co.za
42 African Safaris • Issue 43 DINING DIVERSIONS • Garden Route
chrikkloof can accommodate 20 guests in eight exclusive, private chalets and two suites, all wildlife themed. Enjoy our grand lodge with excellent food and relax with a drink on the deck while enjoying
Suites
Accommodation
The two 50m2 luxury suites, Lion (our honeymoon suite) and Giraffe, are located on the first floor of the main lodge. Both have a private, lavish bathroom with bath and shower. The rooms have a very comfortable king size bed, a seating area, a fridge and coffee/tea making facilities. The north facing balconies overlook a big part of the estate.
Chalets
Schrikkloof can accommodate 20 guests in eight exclusive, private chalets and two suites, all wildlife themed. Enjoy our grand lodge with excellent food and relax with a drink on the deck while enjoying the breathtaking views.
Our semi-detached chalets, Impala, Zebra, Elephant and Leopard, offer eight beautifully decorated 50m2 rooms with private entrance, private bathroom featuring a bath with a view, and an outside shower. The chalets have private parking. The rooms have an extremely comfortable king size or twin bed, a seating area, a fridge and coffee/tea making facilities. The balconies, also north faced, offer a relaxing view of the bushveld and the water hole.
Room rates
Suites
Lion and Giraffe suite
ZAR 2950* per room per night. Chalet room
ZAR 2750* per room per night.
Your stay includes breakfast and dinner, coffee/tea/ water and one late afternoon game drive, or bush walk per day, with an experienced park ranger, with optional visit to the lion sanctuary.
*Rates are subject to change – please check our website www.schrikkloof.com
The two 50m2 luxury suites, Lion (our honeymoon suite) and Giraffe, are located on the first floor of the main lodge. Both have a private, lavish bathroom with bath and shower. The rooms have a very comfortable king size bed, a seating area, a fridge and coffee/tea making facilities. The north facing
About
Schrikkloof Private Nature Reserve is a 700ha area of unspoilt, malaria-free South African bushveld in the magnificent Waterberg, with a luxury, Out of Africa
Schrikkloof
ThereOut
For a holiday with a difference, stay at these unique South African properties—from mountainsides and treetops to trailers and rondavels
By Charmaine Harry
AFRICAN
• Unique Accommodation
SOUTH
TRAVEL
www.santosexpress.co.za; www.kaggakamma.co.za; www.granddaddy.co.za; tsala.hunterhotels.com
South Africa offers travellers a plethora of accommodation options in some of the most beautiful areas of the country. These range from 5-star hotels and luxury game lodges, to tented camps and boutique guesthouses. Wherever you choose to lay your head is bound to be a wonderful experience.
In among these top-class establishments, however, you’ll find some unique holiday abodes that will stay in your memory long after you’ve returned home. Here are a few of these properties that will deliver an experience with a difference.
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Issue 43 • African Safaris 45 Unique Accommodation • SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL
1. Kagga Kamma Nature Reserve, Cederberg
If you want to get close to nature, look no further than this oasis in the middle of the Karoo wilderness. Breathe in the pure air and let your mind wander back to when the San and Khoi once roamed these same plains. Over the mountains, among the wildflowers and fynbos, together with the wild inhabitants… that’s how they lived here.
The Open-Air Suites at Kagga Kamma are set right into the surrounding sandstone mountain. Three kilometres from the Main Lodge, up against a giant boulder, you’ll enjoy unmatched privacy and ‘alone time’ with Mother Nature in the Star Suite. Nearby you’ll find a natural rock pool where you can enjoy a splash and a sundowner before returning to your own boma for dinner under the stars, around a campfire. Even further away from the Main Lodge is the Sky Suite, perched 950 metres above sea level against a jutting rocky outcrop— the perfect location for watching the sun set over the Cederberg landscape. An outdoor shower and wood-fired hot tub add to the romantic, serene ambience.
R303, Koue Bokkeveld, Cederberg www.kaggakamma.co.za
2. Tsala Treetop Lodge, Plettenberg Bay
From the mountains to the treetops… Tsala is set in the middle of an age-old indigenous forest on the verdant Garden Route. Upon entering through the stone walls flanked by streams of water, you’ll feel as if you’re about to greet the ruins of an ancient African civilisation.
It really is an enchanting hideaway, with your suite built into the tree canopy, hidden by the lush greenery. A private deck leads out into the forest, where an infinity pool awaits. Let the kids come along and enjoy their stay in the magical treehouse of their dreams.
You can also relax in the main lodge where the views are equally mesmerising, particularly in the dining room with its large glass walls. Sip on a cup of coffee out on the dining deck that’s suspended above the forest floor, and continue your daydreaming with the dappled sunlight on your face.
Hunter’s Estate, Pear Tree Farm, Harkerville, Plettenberg Bay tsala.hunterhotels.com
3. The Grand Daddy Hotel, Cape Town
This hotel in the centre of the Mother City is a heritage building of 120 years which has become a city landmark. The hotel’s boutique rooms and suites are chic and vibrant, but it’s the accommodation on the rooftop that’s so quirky and cool.
Take the lift to the top and it’s a warm welcome to the only designer Rooftop Airstream Trailer Park in the world. There’s no mistaking the classic silver Airstream trailers made famous in American road-trip movies, and the seven at The Grand Daddy Hotel have been individually designed to reflect our own favourite South African roadie locations such as the beach, the gold rush towns and Karoo dorpies. The Cape Winelands “Penthouse” is the largest and can accommodate a family with kids.
38 Long Street, Cape Town www.granddaddy.co.za
www.kaggakamma.co.za; tsala.hunterhotels.com; www.granddaddy.co.za
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46 African Safaris • Issue 43 SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • Unique Accommodation
Thornybush
Your Home in the African Wilderness WWW.THORNYBUSH.COM T&C’S APPLY
has redefined luxury in the Greater Kruger. Saseka Tented Camp is unpretentious luxe at its finest.
4. Basotho Cultural Village, Free State
For heritage of another kind, make your way to the Basotho Cultural Village in the Golden Gate Highlands National Park. Here you can experience authentic African hospitality and learn about traditional arts, crafts and ways of life of the Basotho people: taste the local beer (brewed on site), share local food, enjoy traditional dances and meet the village elders.
The accommodation area is a rest camp that resembles an 18th-century Basotho village, combined with replica homesteads dating from the 16th century to the modern day. You can sleep over in the two- or four-person rondavels (traditional round huts) that have been decorated by the Basotho women; they’re vibrant and colourful, with dramatic paintings. There’s a lapa outside where you can partake in another part of South African heritage, the open-fire barbecue. Don’t forget to don the conical Basotho hat, mokorotlo, and a traditional Basotho blanket.
R712, Phuthaditjhaba, Free State www.sanparks.org.za
5. Rapunzel’s Tower, Clarens
Live like royalty in this quaint guesthouse straight out of a fairy tale. No detail was spared in decorating and furnishing the rooms in the style of a medieval castle, with large beds, wooden chests, stained glass windows, murals and wall hangings, and other objets d’art like the shields the brave princes wielded when fighting dragons. The royal colours of purple, burgundy and emerald green are used throughout.
Wherever you choose to spend the hours in your day, you’ll feel like a prince or princess, with the towering Maluti Mountains standing sentinel over your kingdom. Laze in the lounge or catch up on some reading in the library; soak up some rays in the Sunset Corner with its mirrorand-glass sundial; relax on the luxurious patio furniture in the Chamber of Angels; and savour your meals with a song in the old-world kitchen. Breakfast is delivered to your room in individual treasure chests.
Off the R712 near Bokpoort Farm, Clarens, Free State www.castleinclarens.co.za
www.sanparks.org.za; www.castleinclarens.co.za
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6. Santos Express Train Lodge, Mossel Bay
All aboard… to nowhere! This train is situated next to Santos Beach in Mossel Bay and offers accommodation options in cabins with either a mountain or sea view. The Royal Suites have an old colonial feel, with authentic woodwork and other furnishings that will have you imagining you’re on board one of those old stately trains travelling through Europe. There’s also a Honeymoon Caboose that’s ideal for a romantic getaway. Feel and smell the ocean breeze wafting in by the windows, nature’s air-conditioning on those balmy Garden Route days. If this whets your appetite, make your way to the Fork & Train Restaurant that serves freshly prepared continental and local dishes—seafood meals and the all-day breakfast are popular choices.
Munro Road, Santos Beach, Mossel Bay www.santosexpress.co.za
7. Sanctuary Makanyane Safari Lodge, Madikwe
Located within the malaria-free Big 5 Madikwe Game Reserve in the North-West Province, this lodge has just eight luxurious suites for a private and secluded safari stay in pristine wilderness along the Marico River.
Constructed from local stone, wood and thatch, the suites blend effortlessly into the surroundings. And you can become one with the landscape, too, by spending your nights out on the special sleeping deck. It’s a raised hide with a second level, ensconced deep in the riverine forest. Illuminated by lanterns, it provides a romantic sleepover for two; cuddle up on the comfortable bed under the starlit sky and listen to the sounds of the African bush as you drift off to sleep in the open air.
Madikwe Game Reserve, Madikwe www.sanctuaryretreats.com
www.sanctuaryretreats.com 6 7 7
www.santosexpress.co.za;
Issue 43 • African Safaris 49 Unique Accommodation • SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL
The Train on the Bridge
Kruger Shalati: The Train on the Bridge is regarded as one of the most stunning hotels in South Africa. This luxury train hotel is located in one of the top game reserves in the world—the Kruger National Park— and sits atop the Sabie River, giving guests unparalleled views of the river below and the animals that pop by to enjoy the waters. And being able to watch the odd hippo or giraffe passing from a hotel room isn’t something that’s easily matched anywhere else!
Here are some top things to know about this hotel:
1You’ll be hard-pressed to find views that match what the Train on the Bridge offers. Guests of the hotel are treated to a high vantage point that provides views from all over the hotel, including from the spectacular bespoke lounge carriage with its opulent bar and deck. Perhaps one of the best views, though, is from the pool that sits above and almost over the river below.
2
The pool is one of the most unique in Africa. Speaking of the pool, let’s make that our next thing to know. Where else can you swim in a pool above the Kruger National Park or anywhere with a view comparable to what Shalati offers? As mentioned, guests are able to view the animals in the river below while enjoying a swim in the pool, have cocktails poolside, and swim—all while taking in a stunning African sunset.
3
The rooms truly are stunning.
Guests are able to make themselves at home in their train carriage rooms that feature all the creature comforts you’d want from a world-class hotel destination. You know those views we keep mentioning? Yes, guests can enjoy these from the comfort of the carriage rooms; it’s the only place in the world that you can do this. And even from the bath. Now, who wouldn’t want to do that? Postbath, guests can get comfortable in the stunning silk robes available to all who stay at Shalati.
Top seven things to know about Kruger Shalati, a truly unique hotel
50 African Safaris • Issue 43
4
It’s a foodie destination, too.
The team at Shalati rotate various menus all the time so, if you’re a recurring guest, you probably won’t ever have to try the same thing twice. With celebrity chef Andrew Atkinson as the executive chef for the team, the menu consists of innovative dishes that bring in a touch of the veld, such as venison Wellington, chickpea mushroom croquet, prawn potato gnocchi, mielie meal malva pudding, local trout fish cakes... and so much more! Then there are the cocktails. With worldclass bar staff and only the best ingredients, guests at Kruger Shalati will experience cocktails that are truly delectable and out of this world.
5
The value for money is undeniable.
To experience this incredible hotel isn’t as out of reach as many may think. The all-inclusive rate includes accommodation, all meals, house beverages and game drives with a drinks stop— and, of course, full
use of the property. Alternatively, guests could opt for a bed-andbreakfast rate that comes in a little cheaper and includes accommodation and breakfast.
6
Bridge House is now open. Those who are interested in enjoying this luxurious destination with their children over the age of 8 are able to do just that with the recent opening of Bridge House. This new addition offers seven land-based rooms overlooking the bridge in a serene garden setting that’s ideal for families. The sunset suite is especially unique with its own courtyard and private splash pool. It’s perfect for those wanting an intimate escape, as it has a more romantic view looking toward both the sunset and the bridge.
7 You can easily take a walk to the artisanal Kruger Station hub next door.
The Kruger Station brings a trendy deli, cool café and a bespoke designed and crafted space to the Kruger National Park. This unique
precinct is a destination within itself and it’s the perfect place to stop and refresh after game viewing. Here guests will find the Enroute Grab ‘N Go Deli and the Departing Soon coffee and ice-cream café, which can be enjoyed as a quick stop or at a more leisurely pace. For those wanting a refreshing drink, the Round in 9 is the stop for you. With both alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks on the menu, there’s something for everyone, while the 3638 sit-down restaurant is perfect for families wanting a longer stop and bigger meals. The young Kruger Park explorers are taken care of, too, with the Li’l Gricers play zone, while the whole family can enjoy the Kruger 360 cinema. The cinema is built like a cylinder with a 360 wrap-around screen inside that gives guests an immersive viewing experience, no matter which way they’re facing. Viewers will sit on chairs that swivel and rotate in order to give them the full 360 experience.
For more information, visit www.krugershalati.com.
Issue 43 • African Safaris 51
A short Escape
52 African Safaris • Issue 43 SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • Western Cape
By
It was after another hectic day toiling away at the office (well, home office, to be precise) and getting news alerts about yet another COVID-19 variant that I lay in bed, googling aimlessly to bring about sleep, when I came across this poem by Wendell Berry, titled “The Peace of Wild Things”:
When despair for the world grows in me and I wake in the night at the least sound in fear of what my life and my children’s lives may be, I go and lie down where the wood drake rests in his beauty on the water, and the great heron feeds. I come into the peace of wild things who do not tax their lives with forethought of grief. I come into the presence of still water. And I feel above me the day-blind stars waiting with their light. For a time I rest in the grace of the world, and am free.
I thought about how wonderfully soul-soothing it would be to lie by that “still water” just for a while, to forget everything happening in the country and in the world, to be free, to be, to simply breathe… Along came the ideal opportunity. And I didn’t even have to travel far.
Tania Griffin
Even though we’re still caught in the middle of a pandemic, you can enjoy a staycation in your own city and get away from all the stress—just for a little while. I did precisely that at two Radisson hotels in Cape Town.
Western Cape • SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL
I entered the foyer of the Radisson Blu Waterfront in Granger Bay, and let out a sigh of content. Peace and calm surrounded me, friendly faces greeted me. Ah yes, this will do just nicely. Hello, staycation —goodbye, stress.
Upon entering the luxury suite, I couldn’t help but let out an impressed “wow”. It’s that first glimpse of the sight beyond the sliding doors that lets your heart give a little excited jump. It’s the ocean in all its azure glory, the sunlight glittering off its rippled surface, the waves lapping the rocky shore just below the hotel. And then I spotted the pool, equally inviting with its smooth mirror surface.
In no time at all I was sprawled on a lounger under a parasol, enjoying a tasty lunch and inhaling the salt-tinged air. “Into the presence of still water”, indeed.
Some more deep breathing on another type of lounger, this time by the heated vitality pool at the hotel’s Amani Spa, awaiting my massage. This short respite was already doing wonders to my weary body and mind, and the massage treatment with comforting and gentle aromatherapy oils topped off the experience. I could feel the tension in my muscles dissipating with each massage movement of the experienced therapist’s hands.
After one last slow-breathing session in the therapeutic Himalayan Salt Room, I felt like a brand-new person. Dinner was a lovely end to an even lovelier day, sitting on the terrace outside Tobago’s Restaurant, keeping warm and snug under a throw blanket and listening to the waves rhythmically splashing up against the rocks below. Tucking into the succulent rib-eye with its excellent beef jus, I couldn’t be happier or more at ease at that moment. Needless to say, I had a wonderful night’s sleep. It might have been the spa treatments, it might have been the super-soft king bed; it might even have been the ocean air and the lulling sound of the waves. I awoke, thankful.
After a sumptuous buffet breakfast, including fresh oysters and bubbly, there was time to laze by the pool once more and be kissed by the warm winter sun before I had to pack up and move my staycation to the Radisson RED in the V&A Waterfront.
The items to use with the hotel’s amenities
The indoor essentials
When you never know whether you’ll be confined to your room or not, there are some trusty items you can pack for the sole purpose of helping you unwind. A good supply of books or magazines will keep you entertained while you chill on the couch or soak in a bubble bath. If you prefer packing light, download audiobooks and a killer playlist for when you’re wanting a short activity break. If a facial isn’t in your budget or the hotel you’re staying at doesn’t have a spa, grab a few sheet masks to wear while soaking in the tub or settling back with a hot chocolate or a cup of tea and your favourite TV show before bed. If you’re travelling with kids, board games are a fun way to spend quality time together and will ensure no one gets bored if you need to stay in your room.
Many hotels offer a plethora of amenities to keep guests entertained and happy during their stay. Make sure you’ve packed a swimsuit, sunhat and sunscreen for poolside days, as well as comfy slippers for when you’ve planned an entire day at the spa. If your stay is longer than a weekend, pack a laundry bag.
The basics you may forget
In addition to your usual toiletries, you may think you won’t need medication. Remember that we’re still in a pandemic and should you not be able to leave your hotel or you become ill during your stay, these items could go a long way to ensure a speedy recovery or simply help you remain comfortable while sick. Paracetamol helps alleviate fever and mild to moderate pain while an ice pack can be kept in your hotel room’s minibar. Heat packs are great to relieve inflammation and reduce muscle stiffness. You should always have a travel first-aid kit containing tweezers, ointment, bandages, hand sanitiser and insect repellent in your car or carry-on.
William McIntyre, regional director for Africa at Radisson Hotel Group, shares the ultimate list of tips and tricks for staycation packing to see you in good stead—pandemic or not.
ALL PACKED AND READY TO GO 54 African Safaris • Issue 43 SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • Western Cape
It’s a different world at the RED —distinctly vibey, young and fresh, from the décor and social spaces, to the rooftop venue and the food and drink. You leave the worries of the world outside and have a grand ol’ time. Like the Radisson Blu Waterfront, this hotel makes for the perfect stay-away-from-home.
An oh-so-cool feature of the RED is its gin dispensary inside the OUIBar + KTCHN, showcasing all the ingredients and botanicals used to make this very trendy drink. Guests can join in a step-bystep blending session to make their own special gin—or, like me, enjoy a tasting of the hotel’s in-house versions, Skinny Dip (sweet and peppery) and Khoi Cloud (citrussy and earthy), made with herbs grown on the rooftop. The gins are complemented by the RED’s own tonic water, Atonic Blonde. A trio of delightful canapes accompanied my glasses of gin.
I was back at the restaurant later in the evening for dinner indoors, as there was a party raging on the RED Roof. The menu items all have such amusing names that you get distracted and keep the servers waiting to take your order…
The Simple + Brie-zee burger matched my mood well, and I added one of the Spice Girl Sides from the ‘90s—Scary Spice, mustard & thyme roasted baby potatoes.
Thanks to the electric blinds that render your room completely dark, I almost missed breakfast the next morning. Fortunately, the staff were all so amicable and
accommodating that I soon had a steaming plate of food in front of me, along with a freshly pressed pineapple juice.
After filling up a brown bag with popcorn from the old-style machine at reception, I was on my way with renewed vigour and ready to face the world. Now that was a weekend well spent.
ENJOY YOUR OWN STAYCATION !
Apart from the Radisson Blu Waterfront and Radisson RED in Cape Town, the group offers staycation deals at other hotels in the Mother City, as well as in Johannesburg and Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth). Be relaxed in leafy suburbs or in the heart of Cape Town at the Park Inn Newlands or Park Inn Foreshore; enjoy a romantic getaway at the Radisson Blu Sandton; or wake up to the sounds of the ocean at Radisson Blu Port Elizabeth… It’s a chance to escape the hustle bustle of life, a vacation in your own city.
Visit www.radissonhotels.com/en-us/hotel-deals/staycations-sa to view all the staycation deals.
56 African Safaris • Issue 43 SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • Western Cape
Solace
SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • Northern Cape
in
reserve
offers
travellers
space
the reserve
your
https://www.explorersclub.co.za/expeditions/tswalu-tarkuni/ Issue 43 • African Safaris 59 Northern Cape • SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL
the solitude Tswalu private game
in the Kalahari
what discerning
crave most:
and time Your time on
is entirely
own, and therein lies the real luxury.
The wide open spaces of Tswalu Kalahari, South Africa’s largest privately owned reserve, have long drawn travellers seeking a deeply layered, immersive safari. From the ancient quartzite Korannaberg Mountains to the southern Kalahari’s grassy, red sand dunes rippling away to the horizon, Tswalu offers what discerning travellers crave most: space and time. The remote reaches of the reserve may be explored on drives, walks or on horseback, always with opportunities to stop and appreciate the solitude and silence. This is a place to recalibrate and reconnect, both with nature and yourself.
With a guaranteed private vehicle, guide and tracker comes the freedom and flexibility to choose where to go and what to see. Nothing is dictated, the only schedule is your own, and days on the reserve unfold at your own pace depending on your interests and the time of year. For keen photographers, in particular, a private vehicle means unlimited time at sightings, which may include some of the elusive species that find sanctuary at Tswalu —such as aardvark, pangolin, bat-eared fox, brown hyena and aardwolf. Other iconic species include the black-maned Kalahari lion, the desert black rhino, wild dog, oryx and cheetah. Throughout the year, there are special sightings and transformations to the landscape influenced by seasonal changes and the amount of rainfall. Spending time at one of the habituated meerkat colonies is often a highlight of any stay.
Unlike most private reserves in South Africa, there are no other lodges on the property. Scenic helicopter flights, excursions to study the reserve’s ancient petroglyphs, and spending time with your guide in the photographic studio, editing and printing your wildlife images, are a few of the other specialised activities on offer.
Tswalu is unique, in that it has a foundation dedicated to research. Research informs every conservation decision taken, and is a vital part of what Tswalu is all about. Guests are encouraged to interact with scientists and doctoral students in the field, should they have a keen interest in a specific subject. There’s also the opportunity to visit the artist currently in residence: a three-month sabbatical opportunity granted to a South African artist that’s linked to the research and conservation work of the Tswalu Foundation.
Tswalu’s low-impact, high-value approach to ecotourism ensures revenue flows directly back into conservation work. Continuing the conservation work at the heart of this noble project has never been more important. Those who choose Tswalu contribute to the sustainability of our commitment to preserving the southern Kalahari’s biodiversity for future generations.
With only two camps, The Motse and Tarkuni, Tswalu accommodates just 30 people and has the lowest guest footprint in South Africa. Whether you choose the private Tarkuni homestead for a multigenerational family reunion or one of the nine spacious Motse legae (the Tswana word for ‘dwelling’), everything about your stay is considered and arranged with the individual in mind.
The once private safari home of the Oppenheimer family, Tarkuni at Tswalu Kalahari has now been redesigned. The homestead is located in a secluded valley below the ancient Korannaberg and offers guests complete privacy and flexibility while on safari.
As part of the redesign, all the pleasurable daily rituals of safari living—from leisurely meals outdoors to afternoon siestas by the pool—were carefully considered.
Tarkuni sleeps 10 people in five bedrooms and comes with its own staff including a chef, housekeeper, safari guide and tracker, and exclusive use of a private vehicle.
60 African Safaris • Issue 43 SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • Northern Cape
The five guest bedrooms have new, natural light-flooded bathrooms with outdoor showers. All the glass sliding doors throughout the house have been fitted with screen doors to keep insects at bay. In the evening, the glass doors can be flung wide to allow the scents and sounds of the bush to filter in, while the screen doors can be secured to ensure a peaceful night’s sleep. Outdoors, shaded verandas and the original teak day beds have been positioned close enough to a deep splash pool to take spontaneous dips and keep an eye on young children. The pool is smaller and more water-wise than the original, aligning with Tswalu’s sustainability journey.
The rustic-chic thatched retreat is everything guests would want in an exclusive-use safari camp: a home from home that is luxuriously comfortable, yet comfortingly familiar. A fire pit encourages gathering for an early cup of coffee before game drives, while the brazier is just as conducive to sociable drinks before dinner while sharing stories of the day’s special sightings. Positioned in front of the house is an inviting boma with low stone walls to take full advantage of the magnificent views across the waterhole to the horizon.
Lighter and airier, Tarkuni’s interiors reflect the natural surroundings of fresh botanically inspired greens and natural
earthy tones. The southern Kalahari’s complex textures and organic forms find expression in some beautiful bespoke pieces of furniture, designed exclusively for Tswalu. Re-fashioning some of the older pieces not only ensured continuity and authenticity, especially for returning guests, but also to be more sustainable and less consumptive.
For those searching for an unfiltered experience more immersed in nature, Naledi—which means ‘star’ in the local Tswana language—is Tswalu’s new backto-nature star bed experience in the Korannaberg. Elevated above a valley with wraparound views, Naledi is a new option for the true adventurer who yearns to sleep beneath the southern Kalahari’s brilliant blanket of stars in safety and seclusion. Naledi is designed as a romantic sleep-out experience for two adults, but is also ideal for a family of four. Everything has been carefully considered so that guests
have everything that’s needed for a comfortable stay.
At Naledi, camping stretchers are layered with luxurious bed linen including extra throws and blankets should the night turn chilly; breakfast treats accompany warming mugs of coffee, tea or hot chocolate and dinner is served picnic-style. A few steps from the main Naledi deck is an open-air shower, basin and toilet on its own timber platform, providing comfort throughout the stay. A private guide will leave guests with a fully charged, two-way handheld radio for remaining in contact should they need assistance at any time.
Privacy, exclusivity and flexibility have always been central to the Tswalu guest experience. Your time on the reserve is entirely your own, and therein lies the real luxury.
Visit tswalu.com for more information.
Issue 43 • African Safaris 61 Northern Cape • SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL
Tswalu Kalahari
62 African Safaris • Issue 43 SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • Eastern Cape
Chintsa is a Xhosa word meaning “river of crumbling banks”
The popular holiday spot of Chintsa on the Wild Coast has something for every kind of traveller: game enthusiast, birdwatcher, water sport junkie, wellness seeker or backpacker
www.crawfordsbeachlodge.co.za Issue 43 • African Safaris 63 Eastern Cape • SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL
FUN for all
Chintsa is a village in the Wild Coast region of the Eastern Cape Province. It’s situated 38 kilometres northeast of East London off the N2 highway, on both flanks of the mouth of the Chintsa River. With a clear 15km stretch of beach, natural forest, exciting outdoor adventures, cultural encounters and a range of accommodation options and restaurants, Chintsa is recognised as one of South Africa’s prime coastal destinations. It’s the perfect chill-out hideaway for travellers of all ages.
The two villages of Chintsa West and Chintsa East sit on opposite banks of the Chintsa Lagoon, and offer expansive views of the bay, estuary and the long beach. Chintsa East is the larger of the two seaside villages. Located on the northern bank of the estuary, it’s a popular holiday spot with accommodation catering for both budget and executive travellers. For backpackers, Chintsa West is a popular Baz Bus stop.
Chintsa is a Xhosa word meaning “river of crumbling banks”, and it’s pronounced in a very specific way. Many visitors say “Sinsta”, but the locals introduce a click sound at the beginning of the word. Once you arrive at this special place at the southern foot of the Wild Coast on South Africa’s eastern coastline, you’ll discover that learning the different clicks in the Xhosa language is part of the fun of discovering the region.
For many generations, Chintsa has been a favoured holiday and fishing spot for both locals and visitors from further afield .
The area has high dunes, indigenous forests full of birds and plants and, of course, that great beach. There are few more
attractive sights than watching a group of riders galloping across the stretch of sand that makes Chintsa so special.
Then there’s also the very pleasant sensation of chilling out in a hammock on a resort lawn overlooking the Chintsa Lagoon, sipping a cold drink, reading a book and occasionally lifting one’s eyes to the Indian Ocean for a sighting of a passing whale or a frolicking pod of bottlenose dolphins.
And how about a game of tennis, bowls, beach volleyball or mashie golf? The Chintsa Country Club in Steenbras Drive has superb facilities for sports lovers, and a pub where you can take it easy with local craft beers—such as those from Emerald Vale. You can visit the brewery in Chintsa East, where they make the amber liquid from freshly collected rainwater and ingredients like hops and malted barley.
Ask the Chintsa locals why they keep coming back here and they’ll tell you about their favourite hotel, resort or backpacker establishment, and how their parents used to take them there as children. Now they take their own families to the same spots.
They’ll also tell you that Chintsa has “the best weather in the world”. The semi-tropical climate around the town makes for mild yearround temperatures.
For those who want a taste of Eastern Cape culture, pay a visit to Mama Tofu at Ngxingxolo Village near Chintsa. A legendary raconteur and expert in Xhosa rituals and
women’s rights, Mama Tofu is a favourite among the visitors who come to this part of the world. An afternoon spent at her village is not forgotten: She and the cultural dancers and musicians present an afternoon of demonstrations, music and local cuisine.
Be sure to take a turn to the nearby Inkwenkwezi Private Game Reserve, a 4 000-hectare property just 10 minutes outside Chintsa which holds more than 40 species of game including buffalo and lion. Inkwenkwezi’s rich diversity of landscapes offers you an unparalleled wildlife viewing experience. This Chintsa Valley land was mostly uncultivated and is rich in natural fauna and flora, including some rare cycads species only found in the Eastern Cape. It’s prolific in natural indigenous bush and aloes, and has abundant birdlife including the Stanley bustard and rare ground hornbill among the 180 identified species.
When you’re not riding horses on the beach, fishing in the sea, looking out for wild animals, hanging out in that hammock, or walking along the beach, you’re dining on the freshest seafood and biggest burgers in the local eateries like Cintsa Restaurant in Chintsa West and The Barefoot Café in Chintsa East. And wondering why you’ve never been here before...
Information from South African Tourism (www.southafrica.net)
64 African Safaris • Issue 43 SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • Eastern Cape
WHERE TO STAY
Prana Lodge www.pranalodge.co.za
This luxury beach lodge is situated in a pristine forest right alongside the Chintsa Bay. There are eight individually designed suites separated by garden walls, each with oversize bathrooms, private patio and plunge pool. The lodge’s wellness spa offers a variety of massages, facials and body treatments that make use of specially created aromatic oils, herbs, rubs and ointments—the ingredients of which are picked from the spa’s own herb garden.
Crawfords Beach Lodge www.crawfordsbeachlodge.co.za
Spectacular sea views and magnificent landscapes surround you at this beach resort, where rest and relaxation are the order of the day. Rooms are large and comfortable, with plenty natural light. There’s something for everyone to stay entertained: kids’ activities, water sports and beach fun, and even wildlife and cultural tours nearby. At the Senses Spa, you can enjoy pampering treatments and soak in the indoor Jacuzzi with a glass of bubbly.
Areena Riverside Resort www.areenaresort.com
Luxury, fully equipped accommodation with family cottages, rondavels, timber chalets and couples’ units. Riverside chalets allow for game viewing and birdwatching from the comfort of your private deck. Get a thrill out of abseiling, ziplining, paintballing, quad biking and Segway tours, among other adventure activities. Or simply sit back at the spa or enjoy a meal at the restaurant
www.pranalodge.co.za; www.crawfordsbeachlodge.co.za; www.areenaresort.com
Prana Lodge
Crawfords Beach Lodge
Areena Riverside Resort
66 African Safaris • Issue 43 SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • Eastern Cape
Barefoot Luxury. w w w u m n g a z i c o z a e : r e qu e s ts @ um n ga z i c o z a | t : + 2 7 (0) 4 7 564 111 5 / 6 / 8 / 9
Hit the
68 African Safaris • Issue 43 SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • Mpumalanga
In the mood for a perfect Sho’t Left winter getaway, or just a spontaneous adventure?
Take an unforgettable journey along a route that leads to incredible destinations. Expect fresh air, the faint sounds of nature, and beautiful natural springs while driving along the Panorama Route in the majestic Mpumalanga province.
Mpumalanga is “the place where the sun rises”—and while it may be among South Africa’s smallest provinces, what it lacks in size,
it more than makes up for it in spectacular natural diversity. Not only is Mpumalanga home to the world-famous Kruger National Park and the Blyde River Canyon, the region is also dotted with numerous reserves teeming with flora and fauna. No other place in South Africa showcases natural beauty better than Mpumalanga.
The Panorama Route runs along the Blyde River Canyon and is a popular travel destination and selfdrive route in South Africa. It leads through the rocky mountain range
of the northern Drakensberg, where the inland plateau declines steeply and affords fantastic views of the plains of the Lowveld. Make sure your camera is charged and ready!
We suggest you base yourself in nearby Sabie (30 kilometres from Graskop), Hazyview (40km from Graskop) or White River (75km from Graskop), as you can easily do a short trip from any of these places. You can overnight at any of the small towns of Pilgrim’s Rest, Sabie, Graskop, Ohrigstad and Hazyview along the way.
No other place in South Africa showcases natural beauty better than Mpumalanga.”
Issue 43 • African Safaris 69 Mpumalanga • SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL
Embark on a self-drive journey along the famous Panorama Route and enjoy the following stops: Get your first day going with an early start, grab a coffee and hit the road. The winding 22.2-kilometre Long Tom Pass is just one of the areas along the Panorama Route where road-trippers have plenty of opportunities to take in the picturesque scenery. This exquisite mountain pass is named after the Long Tom cannons used during the Anglo-Boer War, one of which remains at the very top of the pass for visitors.
If you’re an adrenaline junkie, you’re in luck. At Graskop, the gateway to the route, you’ll find the Big Swing, one of the world’s highest cable gorge swings. You can either freefall for 68 metres or fly across the gorge on the high-wire foefie slide, 130m above the ground.
After some heart-pumping stuff, hit the road again. Between Graskop and Blyde River Canyon, you’ll find the Berlin Falls as well as the Lisbon Falls. Yet, even before the official start of the route, there are a number of waterfalls/pools each worth visiting, such as Lone Creek and Mac Mac Falls. The Mac Mac Falls are lovely and an ideal place to stop to enjoy a picnic at the tables in the shade of pine trees. Pack a lunch and spend the afternoon
splashing in the many rock pools and chilling by the main waterfall at the top. There are various walks that start by the pools, such as the Fanie Botha Hiking Trail to President Burger Hut as well as the Secretary Bird Day Trail.
Make your way northward from Graskop along the R534. You’ll encounter three famous viewing spots, namely The Pinnacle, Wonder View and God’s Window. The Pinnacle is a single quartzite column that rises from a wooded canyon, offering spectacular vistas. The name God’s Window speaks for itself, as the viewpoint at 900m high captures the valley of green splendour that seems to go on forever. This is the perfect time for that obligatory selfie with jaw-dropping background views—no filter needed. Majestic cliffs plunge down 700m, and on a clear day you’ll be able to see over the famous Kruger National Park toward the Lebombo Mountains on South Africa’s border with Mozambique. Be sure to wear decent shoes as the walk to the viewpoint is a steep 15-minute trek, but it’s worth the effort.
Incorporating the third largest canyon in the world and impressive lush scenery, Blyde River Canyon Reserve offers visitors a breathtaking experience. This nature reserve covers 29 000 hectares,
stretching from the misty highlands down to the hotter and drier lowveld at the Blyde Dam. You’ll find more than a thousand species of flora in the reserve, including several species of endangered cycads— and in spring, carpets of wildflowers. Bird- and animal life is abundant: Spot Verreaux’s eagle and the rare bald ibis (which nests on the cliff ledges) and all five species of South African primates including vervet and samango monkeys, chacma baboons and both species of bushbaby.
But the most impressive part of the reserve is the Blyde River Canyon, carved out of nearly 2.5km of red sandstone. It’s one of South Africa’s most remarkable geological features and the third largest canyon in the world. While at the canyon, keep an eye out for the Three Rondavels or Three Sisters, named after the three most troublesome wives of Chief Maripi Mashile. Shaped like the traditional circular hut dwellings of South African tribespeople, these three spirals of dolomite can be seen rising from the mountain surrounding the canyon, their green tops in contrast with their orange-gold rocky bases.
Further along this route you’ll also get to see Bourke’s Luck Potholes, another Instagramworthy stop. Water erosion over millennia has carved cylindrical sculptures from the canyon’s red and yellow rocks, which are interspersed with rock pools. Get a great view of the potholes from the suspension bridges that look over the unreal, fantasy-like brackish water. There are also fantastic little crevasses where you can rest those weary travelling feet and splash around (don’t forget to bring a towel) and take in the gentle sounds of the falls. A perfect ending to a perfect day!
Information from South African Tourism (www.southafrica.net) www.southafrica.net; www.graskopgorgeliftcompany.co.za/bigswing.html
70 African Safaris • Issue 43 SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • Mpumalanga
WHERE TO STAY
Welcome to the historic gold rush town of Pilgrim’s Rest! This Victorian-style hotel was lovingly restored and proclaimed a national monument. Comprising 10 authentic buildings dating back to the latter part of the 19th century, you’ll feel like you’ve gone back in time. The restaurant serves hearty old-fashioned meals, while the bar is a cosy retreat for sipping on some beer and getting to know fellow visitors.
Misty Mountain is a 280ha Natural Heritage Site situated on the spectacular Long Tom Pass, within a mountainous countryside that boasts majestic views across the escarpment and into the lowveld. It’s a relaxed, informal, family-friendly establishment with countrystyle accommodation, swimming pools, TV lounge and reading room, games room and playground for the kids, as well as a restaurant and pub.
This boutique art hotel offers luxurious accommodation in a homely and relaxing atmosphere. Many of the bedrooms have been decorated by different contemporary South African artists. The restaurant serves dishes with fresh seasonal herbs and vegetables from the hotel’s own garden. Have a drink in the bar with its welcoming fireplace, or relax with a book in the spacious lounge. There’s also a serene garden with sculptures as well as a swimming pool.
A resort with 60 hotel rooms that are elegantly furnished for a comfortable stay, with views over lush wildlife-filled gardens. Enjoy spa treatments, swimming pools, an 18-hole golf course, tennis, bowls, mountain biking and bird viewing, and keep the children entertained with their own activity programme. The restaurant treats you to traditional fare, either indoors or out on the terrace overlooking the golf course and the surrounding bush.
www.royalhotelpilgrims.co.za;
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Royal Hotel Pilgrim’s Rest
Graskop Hotel www.graskophotel.co.za Sabi River Sun Resort, Hazyview www.tsogosun.com/sabi-river-sun-resort
Misty Mountain, Sabie mistymountain.co.za
mistymountain.co.za; www.graskophotel.co.za;
72 African Safaris • Issue 43 SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • Mpumalanga
www.tsogosun.com/sabi-river-sun-resort
Try 5 billion!
Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s diverse protected areas and natural sanctuaries allow you to explore our unique big-game wildlife areas, as well as numerous cultural, historical, wetland, alpine and marine treasures with a wide range of accommodation facilities and guest activities on o er.
Hiking, biking, shing, game-viewing or just relaxing …it’s yours for the asking.
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(Ramsa Iran, 1971) T: +27(0) 33 845 1000 E: bookings@kznwildlife.com Online booking: bookings.kznwildlife.com Web: www.kznwildlife.com Ezemvelokznwildlife @ezemvelokznwildlife
Royal Natal, Maloti-Drakensberg Park, World Heritage Site
Beat aroundthe bush
By Tania Griffin
76 African Safaris • Issue 43 SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • KwaZulu-Natal
Have an authentic African adventure in a serene location out in the Hluhluwe wilderness
www.anewhotels.com Issue 43 • African Safaris 77 KwaZulu-Natal • SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL
The flames of the fire leap up as if reaching to the sky, moving in time to the rhythm of drumbeats and chanting. Footfalls hit the sandy ground as the voices grow louder and more intense. It’s a wild kaleidoscope of loin cloths, animal skins, spears and sticks as the Zulu dancers perform, the sweat glistening on their foreheads as the heat in the boma increases. Far above, the stars twinkle on the inky firmament, applauding the ancient dance show below.
It’s just another fabulous night at ANEW Hotel Hluhluwe, sitting around the campfire in the boma area and enjoying a traditional scene before dining on true African cuisine. Visitors from all over South Africa and the rest of the world are congregated here to reflect on the day’s activities, regaling each other in the warm and cosy, convivial atmosphere.
Indeed, what do they do and which marvels do they see during the day at this magnificent lodge set inside the Hluhluwe Village within the Elephant Coast region in KwaZulu-Natal, in a wilderness sanctuary near the iSimangaliso Wetland Park World Heritage Site?
It starts with an early-morning game drive through South Africa’s oldest proclaimed game reserve, the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi, which is home to the Big 5 (rhino, elephant, leopard, buffalo and lion) as well as other safari-checklist animals such as antelope, small mammals, birds, reptiles, amphibians and insects all roaming over 96 000 hectares. Having begun as Zulu King Shaka’s private hunting
grounds, the reserve turned its efforts to conservation—today it harbours the largest population of white rhino in the world. A qualified and knowledgeable guide steers the open game-drive vehicle through this pristine wilderness, pointing out the fascinating fauna and flora. The adventure is capped off with a picnic in the middle of the reserve; there’s nothing like the pure air of the African bush to whet one’s appetite.
Back at the hotel, a splash in the swimming pool and a G&T from the bar await. The children are sufficiently entertained in the kids’ playground, climbing and swaying from the jungle gym. There’s time for a quick stop at the curio shop to purchase a traditional handcrafted African ornament or piece of jewellery as keepsake.
Excursions continue into the greater Elephant Coast area. There are more animal antics to behold upon a trusty steed with Hluhluwe Horse Safaris, at the Zululand Cat Conservation Project at Emdoneni Lodge, at Bayete
Zulu (for interactions with the elephants Rambo and Rachel) and at the Zulu Croc Park with its resident crocodiles, snakes and iguanas. After the foretaste of Zulu traditions around the fire in the hotel’s boma, further cultural experiences can be enjoyed at the Gooderson DumaZulu Traditional Village as well as Shakaland which tells the tale of South Africa’s famous warrior king.
Dinnertime at the Inkonkoni Restaurant is a feast of the best African fare and international cuisine, to be savoured around the campfire. It’s a gastronomical journey for the palate, complemented by delicious signature drinks from the bar.
At the end of another day in this wilderness paradise, the comfortable rooms beckon. The hotel provides 85 luxury abodes with modern amenities. There are Standard Rooms with ensuite bathrooms; open-plan Queen Leisure Rooms with garden access; Family Rooms to accommodate two adults and two children; doublestorey Self-Catering Rondavels with fully equipped kitchen, lounge area and patio with barbecue area; as well as the double-storey 5-star Self-Catering Thatched Lodge that can house 10 adults and which comprises a kitchen, dining area, lounge, patio and swimming pool. A true home away from home…
www.anewhotels.com 78 African Safaris • Issue 43 SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • KwaZulu-Natal
Tel: +264 61 232871 | 24hr emergency no: 081 129 3355 Email: info@africa-on-wheels.com Website: www.africa-on-wheels.com Image: Matej Smucr EXPERIENCE the nature of this beautiful country, Namibia
DOWN TO BUSINESS
ANEW Hotel Hluhluwe also offers top-class conferencing facilities in these wonderful surroundings. The fresh air and stunning scenery are sure to make brainstorming easy.
Ndlovu
The largest venue, seating up to 120 delegates. It has sufficient lighting and air-conditioning, as well as bathrooms.
Obhejane
Seats up to 60 delegates and is able to connect to the Ndlovu. It also has plenty natural light and air-conditioning.
Iwa
This venue is thatched, lending it a rustic feel that fits right in at this bush location. It provides views of the front garden through its large window.
Boardroom
This is suited for more intimate meetings, and is equipped with a flatscreen television. French doors open onto a wooden deck where beverages can be enjoyed between sessions.
All venues are equipped with flipcharts, PA system, data projector and screen for meeting needs—plus free Wi-Fi. Tea/coffee breaks are provided, as well as lunch and water stations. Fun team-building packages are also offered.
ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW
ANEW Hotel Hluhluwe can be found at 104 Main Road, Hluhluwe, in the KwaZulu-Natal province of South Africa.
Tel: +27 (0) 35 562 4000
Central reservations: +27 (0) 10 007 0000 Email: hluhluweres@anewhotels.co.za www.anewhotels.com
www.anewhotels.com 80 African Safaris • Issue 43 SOUTH AFRICAN TRAVEL • KwaZulu-Natal
With over 430 fashion, retail, food and entertainment outlets to enjoy
STYLE!
YOUR WORLD OF
Trailing Giants
EAST AFRICAN TRAVEL • Tanzania
Clues
By Monica Bond
Issue 43 • African Safaris 83 Tanzania • EAST AFRICAN TRAVEL
from the Tarangire ecosystem in Tanzania as to how people and giraffes can thrive together
The giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis) is an iconic megaherbivore whose populations are declining across Africa, the only continent where they are found. Giraffe numbers have plummeted from an estimated 150 000 in 1985 to fewer than 100 000 today.
Like many species of African wildlife, giraffes face numerous threats. The biggest threats are hunting for bushmeat markets and loss of habitat due to deforestation and the spread of farms.
Giraffes shape and sustain healthy ecosystems. For example, woody plant spines such as thorn trees are a response to giraffe browsing. Giraffes are also a big attraction for tourists.
The best way to reverse giraffe population declines is to monitor individual animals and learn why they do better in one place over another. This helps to pinpoint threats and evaluate conservation strategies, such as how the presence of people influences giraffes and whether community conservation areas work.
Fortunately, giraffes are a good study species for this type of research. Each animal has a unique and unchanging spot pattern for its entire life, like a human thumbprint. Giraffes can therefore be easily identified from photographs without any need for dangerous captures.
In 2011, my colleagues and I launched the Masai Giraffe Project (www.wildnatureinstitute.org/ giraffe.html) to learn what helps and what harms giraffes, and how people and giraffes can thrive together. Although the giraffe is still considered a single species, genetic information suggests there may be three species—with Masai giraffes a separate species.
The Masai Giraffe Project is a partnership between the Wild Nature Institute, the University of Zurich, Pennsylvania State University and the Tanzania Wildlife Research Institute.
It has become one of the biggest studies of a large mammal, with nearly 3 000 individuals identified in a vast 4 500 square kilometre area of the Tarangire ecosystem in Tanzania.
To date we’ve published more than 10 original studies about giraffe survival, movements and behaviour in relation to human disturbances—specifically human settlements.
The Tarangire ecosystem features two distinctive types of human settlements: towns, whose inhabitants include farmers and bushmeat poachers; and small traditional homesteads, inhabited by members of the livestockkeeping Maasai community.
We revealed that survival of giraffes is influenced by how close they live to towns. Adult female survival was higher within national parks and community-based conservation areas, away from towns that brought them closer to farming and poaching. These results were not surprising, but we were encouraged to also discover that traditional homesteads are compatible with giraffe conservation. They were even a benefitto mothers with small calves. Our findings help wildlife authorities understand where and why giraffe numbers are stable, increasing or declining.
Giraffes and people: a future in the balance
Our study area includes two national parks, a large cattle and ecotourism ranch, two communitymanaged wildlife areas as well as unprotected lands with towns and traditional homesteads. The entire area has no fences, so giraffes can roam freely around their large
home ranges that average about 130 hectares.
The giraffe’s habitat outside the parks is affected by human activities that include farming, charcoal making and livestock. Giraffe habitat throughout Africa has become similarly fragmented. Thus, our study area is representative of the diversity of threats and conservation opportunities facing giraffes.
We found that the probability of adult female giraffe survival was higher in protected areas than lessprotected areas where poaching for bushmeat markets was prevalent.
We also learnt that communitybased conservation is helping giraffes. For instance, the survival rates of giraffes in community conservation areas adjacent to national parks improved. These areas also had higher giraffe population densities than outside the protected zones.
Survival of breeding females in long-lived species like giraffes is absolutely critical to sustain populations. Lower survival rates of adult females outside protected areas resulted in population declines.
In contrast to adult giraffes, survival of calves was lower inside protected areas where predator densities are highest. However, the seasonal presence of migratory wildebeests and zebras attracted predation away from giraffe calves. This means conservation of giraffes requires the safeguarding of all the other animals in the savanna.
84 African Safaris • Issue 43 EAST AFRICAN TRAVEL • Tanzania
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Different lifestyles
One of the most promising results from our research is that some human lifestyles seem to be more compatible with giraffe conservation. Most giraffes tended to avoid human areas altogether, however giraffe mothers didn’t always. They stayed far from towns, but actually preferred to be closer to traditional homesteads.
We discovered that female giraffes living near traditional homesteads had weaker social relationships, but this did not reduce their survival. Closer to towns, adult female giraffes had lower survival and their home ranges were larger in size. This indicated they had to roam farther to evade poachers and obtain necessary resources like food and water.
Giraffe mothers were more likely to be found near traditional homesteads where predators on
calves—like lions and hyenas— were fewer. This was probably due to pastoralists eliminating predators and disrupting predator behaviour to protect their livestock.
Ways forward
Our 10 years of research on giraffes in a human-natural landscape revealed constructive ways forward for giraffe conservation. Livestock-keeping and farming people have different influences on giraffes, yet both have important roles to play in saving giraffes from extinction.
We can help the tallest of the megaherbivores by giving them enough living space in the savannah. By limiting habitat loss and expanding community-based conservation areas, and eating livestock rather than bushmeat, we
can
WHERE TO STAY TO SPOT GIRAFFES
This luxury tented camp is located in a secluded area of Tarangire National Park, in the heart of Masai country. Twelve luxurious canvas pavilions are all shaded by acacia trees and with views over a waterhole. Built to the highest ecofriendly standards, this camp has a particularly low-carbon footprint. A variety of activities include morning and evening game drives, walking and night game drives, bush dinners and picnics.
Centred about a main lodge —which itself encases a thousandyear-old baobab tree—Tarangire Treetops comprises 20 rooms, all of which are elevated above the ground to afford views over the tops of the surrounding marula and baobab trees. As you arrive at the lodge, you’re immediately greeted by a blaze of colour and a host of smiles belonging to the local Masai tribesmen who have become part of Tarangire Treetops.
Lemala Mpingo Ridge sits on top of an escarpment with a panorama across the perennial Tarangire River and valley below. Each of the 15 spacious tented suites have been carefully positioned to maximise the views of the surroundings that house elephants, birdlife and giant baobab trees. The elevated main lodge has a lounge and bar, indoor and outdoor dining areas, a spa and swimming pool.
www.sanctuaryretreats.com; www.elewanacollection.com; www.lemalacamp.com
ensure a future where both humans and giraffes will thrive.
Monica Bond is a wildlife biologist at the University of Zurich, with a focus on integrating behavioural ecology and demography to conserve threatened species.
Sanctuary Swala Camp www.sanctuaryretreats.com
Elewana Tarangire Treetops www.elewanacollection.com
Lemala Mpingo Ridge Lodge www.lemalacamp.com
86 African Safaris • Issue 43 EAST AFRICAN TRAVEL • Tanzania
(ROFILE SAFARIS / 'Plo-ie, � �fr� ... _) 7k�� Covid-19 has changed the future of travel into a “new norm” . Luckily for us in Namibia, our country is naturally suited to this. Sunshine, wide open spaces, endless horizons and smaller, intimate lodges gives our travelers the accepted “Social Distance” without compromising on your African experience.We custom make individual self-drive or guided fly-in safaris in Namibia and its neighbouring countries, making each an exceptional and distinctly personal African Experience. PO Box 24119, Windhoek, Namibia, Tel: +264 61 253992/7, Fax +264 61 225326 tours@profilena mibia .com
time Adventure Get ready for a camping experience like no other in the best locations in Namibia, from desert to coast to canyon 88 African Safaris • Issue 43 www.nwr.com.na SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL • Namibia
Namibia Wildlife Resorts manages camping sites and accommodation in Namibia’s national parks including Etosha, Sossusvlei, Fish River Canyon and Skeleton Coast. These are some of the best locations to access the natural wonders in Namibia, all in the open air.
Here are NWR’s adventure camps for those looking to get up close with Mother Nature in pristine wilderness surroundings.
1. Hobas Lodge
Hobas Lodge is located in the Ai-|Ais/ Richtersveld Transfrontier Park near the eastern side of the Fish River Canyon, one of the largest canyons in the world and the main attraction in southern Namibia. Hobas Lodge is conveniently situated at the start of the 90-kilometre long Fish River Canyon Hiking Trail, ranked one of the best in southern Africa. It’s also in close proximity to the canyon viewpoints.
The lodge offers six en-suite bush chalets and 14 campsites nestled among shady trees at the top end of the canyon. Apart from hiking along the canyon, you can also get out the mountain bike and hit the cycling trails.
At the lodge you’ll find a swimming pool, the Quiver Taste Restaurant and well-stocked bar, barbecue area as well as a small shop in the reception area for any essentials you may need during your stay.
2. Sesriem Campsite
At the entry point to Sossusvlei you’ll find Sesriem Canyon, where centuries of erosion have incised a narrow gorge about 1km in length. At the foot of the gorge, which plunges down to 30 to 40m, are pools that become replenished after good rains. Sesriem derives its name from the time when earlier pioneers tied six lengths of rawhide strips (riem) together to draw water from the pools.
Explore the canyon and the dunes of Sossusvlei from the scenic Sesriem Camp with 44 camping sites and another six overflow camps. At the camp there’s a restaurant, bar and shop as well as a filling station for when you take to the road.
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1 Namibia • SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL
3. Naukluft Camp
The Naukluft Camp is located in the Naukluft section of the Namib-Naukluft National Park, which was originally created to serve as a sanctuary for the Hartmann’s mountain zebras that are endemic to Namibia. This pristine environment also attracts various cliff-breeding bird species, including black eagles, and a variety of wildlife, plus it harbours five different vegetation communities. With its massive and varied rock formations, Naukluft is a geological paradise, the only place in the world where a solo dolomite—known as gritty dolomite—can be found.
The camp offers 21 sites with basic amenities plus six en-suite chalets, a restaurant and bar, as well as natural rock pools. There are three trails for avid hikers: the 10km Olive Trail, 17km Waterkluft Trail and the four- or eight-day Naukluft Hiking Trail.
4. Olifantsrus Campsite
Located in the western part of the Etosha National Park between Okaukuejo and Dolomite Resorts, Olifantsrus Campsite is a camping-only facility. It offers 10 campsites with five power stands; each power stand is shared among two campsites. The camp accommodates a maximum of eight persons per site.
The camp opens at sunrise and closes at sunset as per the general park regulations, and day visitors are only allowed to use the picnic facilities up until 16h00. There are numerous waterholes and a hide around the camp, which are excellent for game viewing. You’ll also find barbecue facilities for campers and flat bases on which to make fire. On the grounds are a selfcatering kitchen, a museum/ interpretation centre, as well as a kiosk selling beverages, light meals and snacks.
5. Torra Bay Campsite
This popular fishing retreat is also situated within the Skeleton Coast Park, but only open in December and January. Torra Bay is famous in angling circles due to the variety and quantity of fish that come down the Atlantic current, including kabeljou, galjoen and blacktail. Other activities include birdwatching and beachcombing (you may even spot a brown hyena on the prowl on the sands, looking for seafood carrion).
There are 60 campsites, most with power points and shared ablution facilities. You must bring all your own equipment such as tents, mattresses, tables, chairs, cooking facilities, among others. A small shop provides the bare essentials, and there’s a filling station on site too.
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www.nwr.com.na
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90 African Safaris • Issue 43 SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL • Namibia
T: +264 228 101 E: info@desertair.com.na
6. Khorixas Restcamp
This restcamp is located in the hills of Damaraland in the Kunene region. The area is known as an explorer’s paradise, thanks to its fascinating geological formations, the Petrified Forest, ancient rock engravings at Twyfelfontein, and the Welwitschia mirabilis plants.
Khorixas Restcamp is strategically located near all of these must-sees in Damaraland, which makes it an ideal stopover for those travelling from Etosha to Skeleton National Park, and vice versa. The camp offers bush and family chalets, single rooms and camping sites to accommodate various types of travellers.
7. Boplaas Campsite
The Aussenkehr and Rosh Pinah road leading up to Boplaas is one of the most scenic routes in Namibia. That’s why it’s a must to undertake the half-day kayaking activity on the Orange River. However, if you’d like to stay a little longer, the Boplaas Campsite provides a fantastic four-day camping experience that’s fully catered for. The campsite is easily accessible from either the /Ai-/ Ais Hot Springs or Hobas Lodge. It’s also accessible from two of Namibia’s neighbouring countries, South Africa and Botswana.
If kayaking isn’t your thing, you can go for a mountain hike or take on the 4.5km cycling trail to the Fish River.
8. Miles 72 & 108 and Jakkalsputz
The coastline along the Dorob National Park is a popular attraction for anglers and holiday-makers in general. Mile 72, Mile 108 and Jakkalsputz offer accommodation in close proximity to the ocean—a great location from which to explore the park.
Accommodation at Mile 72 and 108 is in the form of fishing chalets or sizable campsites, whereas Jakkalsputz is for camping enthusiasts only. Here you can go fishing or simply lie and sunbathe.
Or why not drive out to the nearby Cape Cross to visit the large colonies of seals?
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92 African Safaris • Issue 43 SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL • Namibia
9. Duwisib Castle
Replete with history and romance, Duwisib Castle is an ideal stopover for visitors en route to the south of Namibia. It was built by the German army officer Baron von Wolf for his American bride Jayta in the early 1900s. Apart from being a gift of love, Duwisib Castle was a dream turned reality for the baron who had planned on breeding horses in this semi-desert environment. Sadly, he was killed during World War 1. His wife left for America, never to return —leaving the castle and all of its contents behind.
Today you can stay over in the five guest rooms or the 10 campsites outside the castle. There’s also a museum that houses a collection of 18th and 19th century antiques, armour and paintings.
Enjoy a picnic on the grounds or have a bite at the restaurant, grab a cold beer at the underground Baron’s Bar, and buy a few souvenirs from the tourist shop.
10. Terrace Bay Resort
Terrace Bay is an angler’s paradise, offering an exceptional coastal experience inside the famous Skeleton Coast Park in northwest Namibia. The resort is located right on the Atlantic coast, set in an undisturbed and peaceful spot surrounded by the majestic dunes of the northern Namib Desert.
Accommodation options include two beach chalets and 20 double rooms, all of which have private toilets and showers. All meals are cooked for you, and the main restaurant offers individual tables and a small communal seating area. A small shop sells alcohol, frozen meat and limited supplies.
You can easily venture into the nearby Uniab River Delta for a glimpse into Terrace Bay’s wildlife diaspora. You can spot shipwrecks, go fishing and hiking, birdwatch, view game or witness breath-taking sunsets from atop the dunes.
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94 African Safaris • Issue 43 SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL • Namibia
11. Shark Island
Shark Island is located on the Shark Peninsula in Lüderitz Bay in southwest Namibia. The resort overlooks the bay, town and harbour. Try and spot the seals and pelicans that frequent the rocky areas around the site.
Accommodation is inside the lighthouse (four beds) or in the camp with its 20 sites. Go searching for sand roses on Agate Beach, or flamingos in Lüderitz; and don’t miss a walk to Diaz Point and the Diaz Cross monument commemorating the landing of the famous explorer Bartholomeu Diaz.
Restaurant and Bar | Sat-TV | High speed Internet
Hotel Deutsches Haus
THE HOTEL
Hotel Deutsches Haus 3 star hotel is located in the city centre of Swakopmund. It offers a charming ambience and prides itself on excellent service. We offer full in-house laundry service, conference facilities, free high speed internet, spacious comfortable rooms and are well renowned for our in house Restaurant and Bar. Our recently refurbished rooms now cater up to 70 beds, comprising of single, double, spacious family rooms and luxury suites.
RESTAURANT AND BAR
Our Restaurant and Bar provides the highest quality to tantalize your culinary taste buds. Our kitchen opens daily at 5am for Breakfast. Lunch and Dinner specials as well as a range of cocktails are available and can be enjoyed indoors or on our roof top terrace. Our cosy bar area will cater to the casual drink or for the occasional get away after a long day out.
13 Lüderitz Street, Swakopmund Tel: +264 (0)64 404 896 | E-mail: info@hotel.na | www.hotel.na
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IS EASY – Nature’s Nectar Cederberg Mountains Rooibos with us! &14:00 promotional shop in 08:00 15:15). sales@rooibosltd.co.za. Tel: 027 482 2155 9 771813 136002 Subscribe Please send my one-year subscription (4 issues a year) for R199 (including VAT) to: First name: _______________________________________ Surname: _____________________________________ Postal address: _____________________________________________________________ Postal code: ________________ Daytime tel: ______________________________________________ Cell: _________________________________________ Email: __________________________________________________________________________________________________ Email proof of payment to ashley@africansafarisint.co.za Aveng Media (PTY) Ltd Account type: Business Acc no: 62574957282 Branch code: 200110 SUBSCRIBING IS EASY – Nature’s Nectar Cederberg Mountains Rooibos with us! &14:00 promotional shop in 08:00 15:15). sales@rooibosltd.co.za. 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Tel: 027 482 2155 ISSUE 33 9 771813 136002 SA R50.00 USA & CANADA $5.00 UK £4.00 EUROPE €9.00 9 771813 136002 SA R50.00 USA & CANADA $5.00 UK £4.00 EUROPE €9.00 9 771813 136002 SA R50.00 USA & CANADA $5.00 UK £4.00 EUROPE €9.00 9 771813 136002 UK £4.00 EUROPE €9.00 9 771813136002 EUROPE Please First Postal Daytime Email: Email Aveng Account Acc Branch SUBSCRIBING 9 771813136002 ISSN SA R45.00 USA UK £ 4.00 EUROPE Rooibos –Nature’s Nectar from the Cederberg Mountains VARIOUS ROOIBOS PRODUCTS INFORMATIVE VISUAL PRESENTATION Come and enjoy a tasty cup of Rooibos with us! Audio visual presentation: Monday to Thursday 09:30, 11:30, 14:00 & 15:30 and Friday 09:30, 11:30 &14:00 G roup bookings: 027 482 2155 027 482 8100 A ran ge of Rooibos products and gifts are available at the promotional shop in Clanwilliam (Monday to Thursday 08:00 16:30 & Friday 08:00 15:15). Fo postal orders of our product range: sales@rooibosltd.co.za. GP Coordinates: S32º 11.131’ EO 18º 53.291’ www.rooibosltd.co.za Tel: 027 482 2155 AFRICAN SAFARIS TRAVEL LUXURY DESTINATIONS CONSERVATION ISSUE 33 TRAVEL 9 771813 SA R50.00 USA & UK 4.00 EUROPE TRAVEL • LUXURY 72 AFRICAN SAFARIS • ISSUE 42 Subscribe Please send my one-year subscription (4 issues a year) for R199 (including VAT) to: First name: _______________________________________ Surname: _____________________________________ Postal address: _____________________________________________________________ Postal code: ________________ Daytime tel: ______________________________________________ Cell: _________________________________________ Email: __________________________________________________________________________________________________ Email proof of payment to ashley@africansafarisint.co.za Aveng Media (PTY) Ltd Account type: Business Acc no: 62574957282 Branch code: 200110 SUBSCRIBING IS EASY TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION Rooibos – Nature’s Nectar from the Cederberg Mountains cup of Rooibos with us! Monday to Thursday Friday 09:30, 11:30 &14:00 482 2155 / 027 482 8100 available at the promotional shop in 08:00 16:30 & Friday 08:00 - 15:15). range: sales@rooibosltd.co.za. 11.131’ EO 18º 53.291’ TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION 72 AFRICAN SAFARIS • ISSUE 42 Subscribe Please send my one-year subscription (4 issues a year) for R199 (including VAT) to: First name: _______________________________________ Surname: _____________________________________ Postal address: _____________________________________________________________ Postal code: ________________ Daytime tel: ______________________________________________ Cell: _________________________________________ Email: __________________________________________________________________________________________________ Email proof of payment to ashley@africansafarisint.co.za Aveng Media (PTY) Ltd Account type: Business Acc no: 62574957282 Branch code: 200110 SUBSCRIBING IS EASY TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION Nature’s Nectar Cederberg Mountains VARIOUS ROOIBOS PRODUCTS INFORMATIVE VISUAL us! in 482 2155 TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION 72 AFRICAN SAFARIS • ISSUE 42 Subscribe Please send my one-year subscription (4 issues a year) for R199 (including VAT) to: First name: _______________________________________ Surname: _____________________________________ Postal address: _____________________________________________________________ Postal code: ________________ Daytime tel: ______________________________________________ Cell: _________________________________________ Email: __________________________________________________________________________________________________ Email proof of payment to ashley@africansafarisint.co.za Aveng Media (PTY) Ltd Account type: Business Acc no: 62574957282 Branch code: 200110 SUBSCRIBING IS EASY TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION Nature’s Nectar Cederberg Mountains VARIOUS ROOIBOS INFORMATIVE VISUAL PRESENTATION us! in 482 2155 TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION 72 AFRICAN SAFARIS • ISSUE 42 Subscribe Please send my one-year subscription (4 issues a year) for R199 (including VAT) to: First name: _______________________________________ Surname: _____________________________________ Postal address: _____________________________________________________________ Postal code: ________________ Daytime tel: ______________________________________________ Cell: _________________________________________ Email: __________________________________________________________________________________________________ Email proof of payment to ashley@africansafarisint.co.za Aveng Media (PTY) Ltd Account type: Business Acc no: 62574957282 Branch code: 200110 SUBSCRIBING IS EASY TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION – Nature’s Nectar Cederberg Mountains Rooibos with us! &14:00 promotional shop in 08:00 15:15). sales@rooibosltd.co.za. Tel: 027 482 2155 TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION 9 771813 136002 SA R50.00 USA & CANADA $5.00 £4.00 EUROPE €9.00 9 771813 136002 TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION 9 771813136002 SAR50.00USA&CANADA$5.00 UK£4.00 EUROPE€9.00 TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION 771813 136002 ISSUE 38 TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION 9 771813 136002 USA & CANADA $5.00 ISSUE 39 TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION 9 771813 136002 SA R50.00 USA & CANADA $5.00 UK £4.00 EUROPE €9.00 TRAVEL • LUXURY DESTINATIONS • CONSERVATION 9 771813 136002 SA R50.00 USA & CANADA $5.00 UK £4.00 EUROPE €9.00 ISSUE 42 96 African Safaris • Issue 43
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• Airport Transfers • Corporate & E ents • Corporate, Leis re, Gro ps • To rs • Sport Gro ps • Dail E c rsions • Year-end F nc ons • Team B ilding • School To rs…..etc. General enq iries: info@ik njani.co. a reser a ons@ik njani.co. a .ik njani.co. a