inedit*d magazine_ Jorge Ayala Paris_ vol. 1

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[Ay]A S T U D I O

Paris

[Ay] is a platform that houses experimental design and young talents to promote discussion, tailored to forward thinking and physical outcomes. The bid for the Parisian design unit at the Architectural Association proposes fashion and architecture being taught simultaneously through design. The big challenge has been to blur the preconceived differences and boundaries between fashion and architecture such as temporality, pace of production, use and function. Regardless of the socio-economic climate, I believe that it is imperative to continually question and develop notions related to identity, social organization/natural systems, movement and performance.

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ing them to reassess the design in later stages.

tant to test the limits of a specific material, us-

by the landscapism praxis. I think it is impor-

inspiration and the spatial conditions delivered

as assembling and construction as a source for

Within the current cultural context of data-informed architecture, [Ay] A seeks to open up an alternative to the highly parametric monochrome momentum currently in vogue within the neoliberal architectural market. Staying ahead with anonymous shapes and avoiding any kind of advanced capitalism aesthetics, [Ay]A operates as a cabinet of curiosities, technological innovation and material (r)evolution in a post-digital era. -----2

]

‘ TO FORGE’

[Ay]A Studio have been looking at themes such

[

‘ TO FASHION’ DEFINES ‘ TO FORM’ ‘ TO GIVE SHAPE’


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01 skin

Furniture Design Paris, 2011

SKIN is an organic self-structure, an artificial corpus overlapping meshing systems and subsystems, inhabiting space and challenging its perception.

SKIN was conceived as a computational design, based on emerging logics of construction and manufacturing. Large Scale CNC along with high tech matters and other techniques will be employed to rapid prototype and assemble this processual design.

Parametr ic tools were used in order to process data, find and refine for m, simulate fluidit y and a set of per for mances. This 5 meter long struc tural design br ings a landscaped pièce unique recreating new for mal ways of app arel, gather ing behaviour and creating organisational newness.

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04. capital h i m

03. lowtech macrosystems

01. skin

ay. architecture

02. multilayered grounds

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02 multilayered grounds Greater Paris City Hall Proposal Paris, 2011

Multilayered Grounds is [Ay]A Studio’s speculation on the Nicolas Sarkozy’s appel d’offre to reinvent the Parisian theory based on a network of boulevards and the so called Haussmanian fabric, in order to overcome with the precaire and the non operational of the existing public realm. Furthermore, on the last 5 decades Paris has been rebuilt on the agreements of the modernist expression defined by Le Corbusier Post-Era.

Par ticipating to the debate of an architec ture engaging with the ground con dition - opposite to the existing propos als for Greater Par is mainly based on a ver tical strategy- the projec t gathers a set of forces as capital agents within the Par isian local matter- translated to flows, walk able paths and a constantly evolving architec tural progra mme.

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03 low-tech macrosystems Computer-generated Homogeneous Organisms Installation Paris, France, 2013

Low-tech Macrosystems offers a synthetic vision of natural macro and microsystems that operate as a cluster of digitally-animated organisms (3 to 5 species), bringing inorganic material into organic effects. Without relinquishing 3-dimensional complexity, we move toward an aesthetic desire for floating-like, lightweight creatures, yielding a novel spatial experience for visitors.

The slow-prototyped approach consist of a set of flexible and interwoven human-scale structures, embodied with expansive polyurethane foam, further ornamented with more than 10,000 toothpicks. Each individual toothpick was placed perpendicular to the cushioned-like surface by hand.

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04 capital h i m #MUGLER Popup Store Competition New York City, USA, 2011

The project is based on a spatial strategy that highlights the architectural properties delivered by Nicola Formichetti’s DNA throughout the character corpus of Rick Genest and Lady Gaga: the edge and the glory with avant-garde resolution. Our proposal seeks to instrumentalize such matter in order to inform our design qualities: alienated, urban, volumetrical, sacred and whimsical, mainly. We generate a theoretical matrix translating Formichetti’s work onto spatial conditions. Our diagram starts to branch and overlap such spatial properties generating a ‘novel architectural edge’. Therefore, via the multitude of potential scenarios created, our proposal builds up a series of hybrid architectural qualities.

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ARCHILAB

FRAC -OrlĂŠans centre SEPTEMBER 2013 -APRIL 2014 2013

001

[Cr]

Species_ A,B,C,D,E,F

periodic table of elements

Element_Symbol

Crystals

Producers of Culture [Ay]A, Paris

118 rue Saint-Dominique 75007 Paris France

400

001

002

[Cr] 10.2012

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Exoskeletons

Poured thermosetting resin into dipcast latex antimould 07.2012

[Ay]A, Paris

10.2012

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[Ex]

Exoskeletons

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07.2012

[Ay]A, Paris

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08.2012

[Ay]A, Paris

08.2012

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[Ay]A, Paris

Exoskeletons

[Ay]A, Paris

03.2013

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Species E

[Ay]A, Paris

[Ay]A, Paris

04.2013

[Ex]

Exoskeletons

Exoskeletons

Poured thermosetting resin into dipcast latex antimould

Poured thermosetting resin into dipcast latex antimould [Ay]A, Paris

03.2013

04.2013

008

Species E

[Ex] Exoskeletons

Poured thermosetting resin into dipcast latex antimould [Ay]A, Paris

04.2013

010

009

Species C

Species B

010

Species D

[Ex] [Ay]A, Paris

05.2013

009

Species C

007

Species A

Crystals

Poured thermosetting clear resin into dipcast latex antimould

008

Poured thermosetting resin into dipcast latex antimould

03.2013

005

Species D

[Ex]

Exoskeletons

Poured thermosetting resin into dipcast latex antimould

09.2012

004

Species C

Species B

[Ay]A, Paris

04.2013

Species B

[Ex]

Poured thermosetting resin into dipcast latex antimould

[Cr]

Crystals

Poured thermosetting clear resin into dipcast latex antimould

007

Species A

Exoskeletons

Poured thermosetting resin into dipcast latex antimould

[Ay]A, Paris

11.2012

Species D

[Cr]

Crystals

Poured thermosetting clear resin into dipcast latex antimould

006

Species E

[Ex]

Exoskeletons

Poured thermosetting resin into dipcast latex antimould

[Ay]A, Paris

03.2012

005

Species D

[Ex]

Exoskeletons

Poured thermosetting resin into dipcast latex antimould

[Ay]A, Paris

11.2012

004

Species C

[Ex] [Ay]A, Paris

[Ay]A, Paris

11.2012

003

Species B

Species A

[Ex]

[Ay]A, Paris

008

Species C

[Cr]

Crystals

Poured thermosetting clear resin into dipcast latex antimould

400

007

Species B

[Cr]

Catalyzers

Hand stitched human ornament

400

006

Species A

[Ca]

Crystals

Poured thermosetting clear resin into dipcast latex antimould

400

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Species H

[Cr]

Crystals

Poured thermosetting clear resin into dipcast latex antimould

D.O.B_Month.Year

400

008

Species D

[Cr]

Crystals

Poured thermosetting clear resin into dipcast latex antimould

400

004

Species C

[Cr]

Crystals

Poured thermosetting clear resin into dipcast latex antimould

400

003

Species B

Species A

[Ay]A, Paris

400

09.2013

Location_ City,Country

info@ayarchitecture.com I ayarchitecture.com

Location_City,Country

400

600

[Ay]A Studio

The process_Fabrication

Process_Fabrication

D.O.B_Month.Year

Species D

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[Ep]

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[Ep]

[Ep]

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[Ep]

[Ep]

[Ep]

Laser cut moulds, dip-cast (x10) in natural rubber latex forming antimould

Laser cut moulds, dip-cast (x10) in natural rubber latex forming antimould

Laser cut moulds, dip-cast (x10) in natural rubber latex forming antimould

Laser cut moulds, dip-cast (x10) in natural rubber latex forming antimould

Laser cut moulds, dip-cast (x10) in natural rubber latex forming antimould

Laser cut moulds, dip-cast (x10) in natural rubber latex forming antimould

Laser cut moulds, dip-cast (x10) in natural rubber latex forming antimould

Laser cut moulds, dip-cast (x10) in natural rubber latex forming antimould

Laser cut moulds, dip-cast (x10) in natural rubber latex forming antimould

Laser cut moulds, dip-cast (x10) in natural rubber latex forming antimould

Epidermis

[Ay]A, Paris

04.2012

Epidermis

[Ay]A, Paris

Epidermis

04.2012

[Ay]A, Paris

04.2012

006

[Ca] Catalyzers

29.04.14

[Ay]A, Paris

05.2012

[Ca] Catalyzers

[Ay]A, Paris

Epidermis

05.2012

[Ca] Catalyzers

Catalyzers

[Ay]A, Paris

[Ay]A, Paris

02.2013

[Ca] Catalyzers

[Ay]A, Paris

[Ay]A, Paris

[Ca] Catalyzers

Hand stitched mould (300) contours 03.2012

[Ay]A, Paris

03.2013

007

Species E

Hand stitched mould (300) contours 02.2012

Epidermis

Epidermis

005

Species D

Hand stitched mould (300) contours 02.2012

[Ay]A, Paris

004

Species C

[Ca]

Epidermis

02.2013

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Hand stitched mould (300) contours 02.2012

[Ay]A, Paris

Species B

Hand stitched mould (300) contours [Ay]A, Paris

Epidermis

002

Species A

Hand stitched human ornament

[Ay]A, Paris

Epidermis

001

Species F

600

600

[Ay]

Element_Symbol

09.2013

[Ay]A, Paris

600

Species A

Properties_Name

Properties_Name

Poured thermosetting clear resin into dipcast latex antimould

002

Element_Symbol

Series_Number Species_ A,B,C,D,E,F

Species A

[Ay]A, Paris

FRANCE

[Ay]A, Paris

Species G

[Ca] Catalyzers

Hand stitched human ornament

03.2012

[Ay]A, Paris

Cabinet of post-digital curiosities proposes a post-digital scenario in architecture, bridging with other disciplines in the fields of design and research, like chemistry, biology, engineering and fashion. Within the cultural context of data-informed architecture, post-digital curiosities seeks to open up an alternative to the highly parametric monochrome grain within non-built architecture currently in vogue, operating as a repository for technological innovation and material (r)evolution toward a post-digital era.

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03.2012

03.2013

Epidermis

[Ay]A, Paris

03.2013


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TORSO STUDIES

extrāneum II

extrāneum I

extrāneum I

extrāneum I

extrāneum II

extrāneum III

extrāneum II

extrāneum IV

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Digital Couture Torso Studies, Paris, France, 2012

extrāneum I

extrāneum II

Jorge Ayala Paris begins to define the emerging ‘fashion’ ‘architecture’ field; complex physical entities of audacious surfaces going through infinite mutation, whilst simultaneously finding ways to describe physically structural typologies evolving from the global understanding of its local specificities.

extrāneum IV

extrāneum I

extrāneum I

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CONTENT. EVERYONE WANTS CONTENT [Ay]A Studio’s strategy is to eschew current trends established by global academic neoliberal leaders, based primarily on the rapid acquisition of design knowledge determined by technological parameters.

Rather, we reassessed our terrains of experimentation while allowing the expression of a formal language consistency throughout digital and physical processes; from urban and architecture design towards product and clothing design.

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What makes a culture unique is its architecture and clothing traditions. Jorge Ayala Paris insists on the fundamental difference behind fashion, indumentary garments and clothing design. To that extend, I don’t want to be perceived as a fashion -----13

designer, rather, as an Architect designing clothes.


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Technological natural

cycles,

transformation, available

cultural

resources and social transformation define some parallel grounds within Clothing and Architecture.

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[AY ]A S T U D I O RUE SAINT DOMINIQUE, PARIS AYALA SHOE DESIGN -----15


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Post-tsunami scenarios, Post-Earthquakes strategies in the Chilean Region, Post -9/11 Typologies or PostRem or Zaha Manifestos; the Post Alexander Mc-Queen

[AY ]A S T U D I O RUE SAINT DOMINIQUE, PARIS

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PROCESSES

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Within fashion social context, without hesitating we were tempted –as architects- to develop our design onto a broader scale, beyond and above the architectural resolution.

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The fashion+architecture workshop gathers each season experts, students and participants from all over the world, from architecture, design and fashion realm.

In the past 5 seasons, we had learnt a set of innovative techniques from clothing design via advanced computational towards physical testing with novel logics of assembling and processual-prototyping.

SPRING - SUMMER 2011

F(AA)SHIONS aatelier.org PARIS

SUMMER - SPRING 2012 FALL - WINTER 2011

POST-MCQUEEN EMBRYOS

BUILDING FASHION

aatelier.org aatelier.org

PARIS

PARIS

FALL - WINTER 2012

SUMMER - SPRING 2013

DESIGNING DESIRE

ARENA

aatelier.org

aatelier.org

PARIS

PARIS

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AATELIER.org LOCAL AND GLOBAL ARCHITECTURAL KNOWLEDGE The AA Visiting School provides an opportunity for visiting students, young architects, recent graduates and other creative individuals to participate in the AA in

a form that emulates the school’s famed ‘unit system’that is, through a highly-focused short course pursuing a shared agenda of collaborative design, study, research and performance.

A Visiting School offers unparalleled learning opportunities, working with a brilliant group of partner institutions, exciting cultural

and some of the most unexpected architectural events anywhere in the world. We have created these as part of our central purpose as an experimental

50 NATIONALITIES AATELIER AA GLOBAL SCHOOL IN PARIS: POLAND / THAILAND / ITALY / RUMANIA / MEXICO / NETHERLANDS / FRANCE / PORTUGAL / GREECE / CROATIA / ARGENTINA / CHINA / BRAZIL / UNITED STATES OF AMERICA / JAPAN / GERMANY / PALESTINE / IRAN / MEXICO / PUERTO RICO / SWITZERLAND / AUSTRALIA HONG KONG / SOUTH KOREA / INDIA / ALGERIA / TAIWAN / SYRIA / GERMANY / LEBANON / AUSTRIA / JORDAN / MALAYSIA / FINLAND / CHILE / MALTA / OMAN / CANADA / CYPRUS / NEW ZEALAND / EL SALVADOR / SERBIA / BELGIUM / SPAIN / UNITED KINGDOM -----28

school: to allow individual participants, collaborators and partner institutions opportunities for discussion, debate, exchange and above all, further learning in ar-


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M

ateriality research

F-W 2013 - 2014

[Ay]A Studio is a global design laboratory based in Paris committed to cutting edge research and material experimentation across scales in both theoretical and professional praxis. Through computational tactics and physical innovation, [Ay]A tailors Architecture to different disciplines: art, chemistry, landscape urbanism, engineering, marketing, music, editorial, as well as product and clothing design. In 2012 Ayala expanded [Ay]A’s entrepreneurial ambition to the Ayala Collection brand, a new paradigm to the currently in vogue ‘digital couture’, fully produced and prototyped in France.

001_ Modele No: 007 Jupe Recharchet Matiere: Polyester Laque Traitement: Plisse Pans A 3 Directions

010_ Modele No: 004 Pardalan Matiere: Agneau Plonge Traitement: Thermoforme

002_ Modele No: 007 Jupe Matiere: Mousseline de Soie Traitement: Plisse Versailles

011_ Modele No: 004 Pardalan Matiere: Agneau Plonge Traitement:

003_ Modele No: 001 Jupe Matiere: Organza de Polyester Traitement: PlisseRoi Soleil Circonference Bordure Effilochee

012_ Modele No: 007 Furigue Recharde Matiere: Serge De Laine Traitement: Impession Numerique Plisse Diamant

004_ Modele No: 001 Debardeur Matiere: Organza De Soie Traitement: Plisse Croise Duex Sens 005_ Modele No: 001 Debardeur Recherche Matiere: Organza De Soie Traitement: Plisse Croise Duex Sens 006_ Modele No: 001 Debardeur Recherche Matiere: Crepe De Soie Traitement: Plisse Croise Duex Sens 007_ Modele No: 001 Jupe Matiere: Mousseline De Soil Gaufree Traitement: 008_ Modele No: 002 Jupe Matiere: Veau Velours Traitement: Tatouage Laser Et Repeint A La Main 009_ Modele No: 005 Cape Recharche Matiere: Agneau Plonge Traitement: Plisse Ananas

019_ Modele No: Dorblue Matiere: Lurex Traitement:

013_ Modele No: 003 Jupe Matiere: Jerey Polyester Lycra Fil Coupe Traitement: Repreint En Paillete Degrade 014_ Modele No: 002 Blouse Matiere: Matelasse De Polyester Traitement: 015_ Modele No: 004 Blouse Matiere: Organza De Soie Traitement: Impression Numerique 016_ Modele No: 003 Tunique Recherche Matiere: Latex Traitement: Impression Numerique 017_ Modele No: Dorblue Matiere: Tulle Traitement: Plisse Accordeon 018_ Modele No: Dorblue Matiere: Tulle Traitement: Plisse Accordeon

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Tunique en sergé de laine, impression numériquede motifs architecturaux en filigrane, un jeu d’épaisseurs, bordée par des bandes d’organza effiloché. Construction symétrique | Jupe droite en soie grise, structurée par des protubérances d’organza plissé Versailles.

dresscode /02 nature synthétique

Blouse sans manche en matelassé de polyester irisé, drapé en un seul tenant. Jeu géométrique de formes organiques et effets de profondeurs | Jupe droite en veau velours bicolore gris clair et marron foncé, tatouée au laser d’un exosquelette aliéné, repeint à la main.

Cape en cuir noir tatouée au laser d’un exosquelette aliéné brodé de perles, sequins et cristaux Swarovski noirs, réhaussé à la main de peinture or, doublure matelassée effet soie | Pantalon baggy taille haute en veau marron foncé, brodé de sequins noirs dessinant un exosquelette aliéné, grandes poches architecturées plaquées, également brodées de sequins noirs.

dresscode /05 conscience corps-nomade

dresscode /03 narrative surnaturelle

Tunique en latex translucide, ornée d’un exosquelette aliéné brodé de coraux, perles de verre et pierres, emmanchures et encolure rehaussées de satin de viscose rouge, plissé à plat et effiloché | Jupe droite en jersey fil coupé noir, effet fourrure, reteinté en dégradé pailleté.

Débardeur en organza de soie noire plissé croisé à deux sens, effet moiré jouant sur les transparences | Jupe volumétrique en mousseline de soie gaufrée noire, double drapé, et superposition d’organza de soie noire plissé Roi Soleil et effiloché.

dresscode /04 juxtaposition corporelle

dresscode /01 dissolution architecturale

BY JORGE AYALA FALL - WINTER 2013 / 2014

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[AY ]A S T U D I O RUE SAINT DOMINIQUE, PARIS

AYALA SHOE DESIGN -----22


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SCARVES

Ayala

Scarves

2013 - 2014

architectural dissolution_ dissolution architecturale

FALL WINTER

synthetic nature_ nature synthĂŠtique

CO LLECTION Collec-

tion relies on the spaexperimentation

stalking architecture_ poursuite architecturale

with digital tools currently in vogue in the realm.

mutant transgression_ transgression mutante

architecture

The

scarves

are

ef-

fective while they offer an insight to what (ay)architecture currently

is

produc-

ing, which otherwise would be determined to stay on our endless list of digital files. -----23

supernatural narrative_ narrative surnaturelle

tial


[AY ]A S T U D I O RUE SAINT DOMINIQUE, PARIS


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GENE- FALL - WINTER SIS 2013 - 2014

Jorge Ayala Paris begins to define the emerging ‘fashion’ ‘architecture’ field; complex physical entities of audacious surfaces going through infinite mutation, whilst simultaneously finding ways to describe physically structural typologies evolving from the global understanding of its local specifi-

Questionne le risque d’anesthésie globale que la démocratisation de la technologie nous fait prendre, Exploite et dompter la performance structurelle du vêtement, Explore de manière expérimentale, empirique et rationnelle, de nouvelles affiliations formelles, Propose des compositions de matériaux inédites telles que synthétique versus organique, érosion versus plissage, tatouage versus broderie, dessins architecturaux versus textiles tridimensionnels, Met en question l’image de notre société et le capitalisme néolibéral tardif, si repoussante et si humaine à la fois. Ces mutations génèrent plusieurs degrés d’individualisation correspondant à 7 paradoxes spécifiques. Suggérant des hybrides entre architecture et couture, à dimensions analogues, numériques et expérimentales, AYALA est définie par une nomenclature de 7 dresscodes:

cities.

dissolution architecturale / nature synthétique / narrative surnaturelle / transgression mutante / coexistence matérielle / juxtaposition corporelle / dresscode /03 conscience corps-nomade

narrative surnature

dresscode /01 dissolution architecturale

dresscode /02 nature synthétique

dresscode /03 narrative surnaturelle

dresscode /04 transgression mutante


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elle

dresscode /05 coexistence matĂŠrielle

dresscode /06 juxtaposition corporelle

dresscode /07 conscience corps-nomade

2013 14


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[AY ]A S T U D I O RUE SAINT DOMINIQUE, PARIS

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[AY ]A S T U D I O RUE SAINT DOMINIQUE, PARIS

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JORGE AYALA PARIS GENESIS F/W 13-14 dresscode /04 transgression mutante


JORGE AYALA PARIS GENESIS F/W 13-14 dresscode /06 juxtaposition corporelle




JORGE AYALA PARIS GENESIS F/W 13-14 dresscode /01 dissolution architecturale


JORGE AYALA PARIS GENESIS F/W 13-14 dresscode /01 dissolution architecturale


JORGE AYALA PARIS GENESIS F/W 13-14 dresscode /01 dissolution architecturale -----1


JORGE AYALA PARIS GENESIS F/W 13-14 dresscode /01 dissolution architecturale -----2


JORGE AYALA PARIS GENESIS F/W 13-14 dresscode /02 nature synthétique


JORGE AYALA PARIS GENESIS F/W 13-14 dresscode /03 narrative surnaturelle


JORGE AYALA PARIS GENESIS F/W 13-14 dresscode /04 transgression mutante


JORGE AYALA PARIS GENESIS F/W 13-14 dresscode /04 transgression mutante


JORGE AYALA PARIS GENESIS F/W 13-14 dresscode /05 coexistence matérielle


JORGE AYALA PARIS GENESIS F/W 13-14 dresscode /06 juxtaposition corporelle


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JORGE AYALA PARIS GENESIS F/W 13-14 dresscode /07 conscience corps-nomade ------


JORGE AYALA PARIS GENESIS F/W 13-14 dresscode /07 conscience corps-nomade


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dresscode /01 dissolution architecturale

dresscode /02 nature synthĂŠtique

dresscode /03 narrative surnaturelle

dresscode /04 transgression mutante

dresscode /05 coexistence matĂŠrielle

dresscode /06 juxtaposition corporelle

dresscode /07 conscience corps-nomade -----45


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dresscode /01 dissolution architecturale

dresscode /02 nature synthétique

dresscode /03 narrative surnaturelle

dresscode /04 transgression mutante

dresscode /05 coexistence matérielle

dresscode /06 juxtaposition corporelle

dresscode /07 conscience corps-nomade

JORGE AYALA PARIS GENESIS F/W 13-14

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PRODUCTION BY

JORGE AYALA PARIS

[Ay]A STUDIO

118 RUE SAINT DOMONIQUE , PARIS

+33 (0)1 83 56 56 03

WWW.JORGEAYALAPARIS.COM

WWW.AYALACOLLECTION.COM


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