GJRMI - Volume 5, Issue 6, June 2016 by Dr. Hari Venkatesh.K.Rajaraman

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INDEX – GJRMI - Volume 5, Issue 6, June 2016 INDIGENOUS MEDICINE Ayurveda – Dravya Guna MICRO-MORPHOLOGICAL AND MICROMETRIC EVALUATION OF AGNIMANTHA LEAVES WITH SPECIAL REFERENCE TO PREMNA SERRATIFOLIA L. AND CLERODENDRUM PHLOMIDIS L.f. Varsha G Singh*, B R Patel, Suman Singh, C R Harisha

183–193

Ayurveda – Moulika Siddhanta – Review AN AYURVEDIC OUTLOOK TO MUKHA LEPA (FACE PACK) FOR BEAUTY CARE Anupama Shukla*, Pankaj Kothari, Akhilesh Shukla, CR Yadav

194–202

Cover Page Photography: Dr. Hari Venkatesh K.R. Plant ID: Branch of Suddava (Ruta graveolens L.)* of the family Rutaceae; Place: Koppa, Chikkamagalur District, Karnataka, India *Botanical Name validated from www.theplantlist.org as on 30/06/2016

Research article MICRO-MORPHOLOGICAL AND MICROMETRIC EVALUATION OF AGNIMANTHA LEAVES WITH SPECIAL REFERENCE TO PREMNA SERRATIFOLIA L. AND CLERODENDRUM PHLOMIDIS L.f. Varsha G Singh1*, B R Patel2, Suman Singh3, C R Harisha4 1

PG Scholar, Dravyaguna Department, I.P.G.T & R.A, GAU, Jamnagar-361008,Gujarat, India. Assistant Professor, Dravyaguna Department, I.P.G.T & R.A, GAU, Jamnagar-361008,Gujarat, India. 3 Ph.D. scholar, Dravyaguna Department, I.P.G.T & R.A, GAU, Jamnagar-361008,Gujarat, India. 4 Pharmacognosist, Head, Pharmacognosy Laboratory, I.P.G.T & R.A, GAU, Jamnagar-361008, India. *Corresponding Author: E-mail: varshu775@gmail.com; Mob no: 9426547516 2

Received: 29/04/2016; Revised: 30/05/2016; Accepted: 20/06/2016

ABSTRACT Premna serratifolia L. and Clerodendrum phlomidis L.f. both belonging to family Lamiaceae are the two most widely used botanical source plants for Agnimantha, an important constituent of Dashamoola. Two varieties for Agnimantha are mentioned by medieval lexicons viz. Agnimantha (Tarkari) and Dweetiya Agnimantha (Kshudra-agnimantha). Ayurvedic pharmacopoeia of India accepts Clerodendrum phlomidis L.f. as genuine botanical source of Agnimantha, and describes Premna integrifolia L. (Accepted name: Premna serratifolia L.) and Premna mucronata Roxb. as substitutes for Agnimantha. Its leaves are used in treating Vata-kaphaja disorders like Sthaulya (obesity), Urustambha (myelitis), Kushtha (leprosy), Prameha (diabetes mellitus), etc. The present study evaluates the pharmacognostical similarities and differences in the leaves of Premna serratifolia L. and Clerodendrum phlomidis L.f. as two source plants for Agnimantha. The leaves of both the plants varied in external morphology, stomatal type and stomatal index but showed similarities in majority of microscopical characters and presence of similar phytoconstituents like lignin, tannins, calcium, starch grains. The presence of bicellular stalked glandular trichomes, rhomboidal crystals, and presence of colouring matter in epidermal cells of mid rib were the distinguishing features of Clerodendrum phlomidis L.f. leaf. KEYWORDS: Premna, Clerodendrum, Lamiaceae, Agnimantha, Dashamoola.

Cite this article: Varsha G Singh, B R Patel, Suman Singh, C R Harisha (2016), MICRO-MORPHOLOGICAL AND MICROMETRIC EVALUATION OF AGNIMANTHA LEAVES WITH SPECIAL REFERENCE TO PREMNA SERRATIFOLIA L. AND CLERODENDRUM PHLOMIDIS L.f., Global J Res. Med. Plants & Indigen. Med., Volume 5(6): 183–193

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INTRODUCTION: Agnimantha, being one of the constituents of Brihat-panchamoola (group of five trees), its roots are widely used by Ayurvedic practitioners all over India to treat various disease conditions like inflammation, pyrexia, nervous disorders, respiratory conditions etc. Having fewer applications as compared to root, its leaves are used in treating Vata-kaphaja disorders like obesity, myelitis, skin diseases, diabetic conditions, deafness etc. In Brihattrayi, Agnimantha is categorized under Shothahara-dashemani (group of ten plants used to treat oedema and inflammation) (YT Acharya, 2014), Varunadi and Veeratarvadigana (Hari Sadashiva, 2014). In these groups, Agnimantha is mentioned along with Tarkari, the name given to Kshudra-agnimantha by various medieval lexicons. Both Agnimantha and Tarkari are attributed with same properties like Kapha-medohara (useful in reducing excessive fat) and also indicated in same disease conditions like Urustambha, Shirahshoola (sinusitis), Vidradhi (abscess) etc. Various Nighantus (lexicons) like Kaiyadeva cited two varieties of Agnimantha i.e. Brihat and Laghu where, Tarkari is given as synonym for Laghu Agnimantha (PV Sharma, 2006). Traditional practitioners of South India use Premna serratifolia L. as botanical equivalent of Brihat-Agnimantha while Clerodendrum phlomidis L.f. as source plant for LaghuAgnimantha (PY Mali, 2015). According to API Clerodendrum phlomidis Linn.is considered genuine official botanical source of Agnimantha while Premna species. are suggested as a substitutes. Premna serratifolia L. belonging to family Lamiaceae is a large shrub or small tree found in forests of South India and West Bengal with usually spinous branches, broadly oblong or ovate shaped leaves, entire or upper part toothed margin. Its flowers are greenish white arranged in dense corymbose having unpleasant smell. Its fruits are a drupe, black coloured, globose with oblong seeds (J.D.Hooker, 2006) (Plate 1. A. 1)

Clerodendrum phlomidis L.f. from family Lamiaceae, is a large bushy shrub found in drier parts of Deccan peninsula, Bihar, Punjab and West Bengal having ovate-sinuate or dentate leaves with sub-cordate base, pubescent beneath. Its flowers are white, fragrant and arranged in axillary cyme. Fruit black, slightly succulent, broadly obovoid, 4-lobed (J.D.Hooker, 2006). (Plate 1.B.1) As both the varieties are attributed with similar properties by classics, the present study was planned to evaluate similarities and dissimilarities if any, in the leaves of both varieties macroscopically and microscopically. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Collection and authentication: For the study, drug samples of both varieties were collected from Sasoi botanical garden, Jamnagar, Gujarat and subjected to various pharmacognostical parameters. Leaves of Premna serratifolia L. and Clerodendrum phlomidis L.f. were collected by the scholar in the month of May 2015 after proper identification and authentication through referring various floras and institutional taxonomist. Herbarium samples of P. serratifolia and C. phlomidis were preserved at pharmacognsoy laboratory and their sample numbers are Phm.6178/may-2015 and Phm.6179/may-2015 respectively. Micromorphological Study: Collected leaves were observed carefully for their morphological characters and micro measurements were noted. Morphological characters like colour, odour and size were noted down (Gokhale SB., 2008) Microscopic study: Free hand sections of various parts i.e. petiole, mid-rib, upper and lower epidermis of both the varieties was taken and cleared with chloral hydrate. They were first observed in distilled water and then stained with phloroglucinol and Conc. HCl.

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Global J Res. Med. Plants & Indigen. Med. | Volume 5, Issue 6 | June 2016 | 183–193

Microphotographs were taken by using Carl Zeiss Trinocular microscope, attached with camera (Kokate CK., 2009). Fine powders of both leaves were taken and powder microscopy was carried out on the samples (Snowdon DW, 2005).

Vascular bundles were located nearly at the centre, having boat shaped appearance, open and collaterally arranged. Xylem was seen made up of xylem parenchyma and phloem was made up of sieve elements of phloem fibres (Plate 1. A 3, 4, 5).

Micrometric evaluation:

Transverse section through mid-rib:

Evaluation of the length and breadth of leaves, trichomes, stomata, prismatic and rhomboidal crystals was done with the help of Carl Zeiss Trinocular microscope attached with camera with preloaded micrometric analysis software (Wallis TE, 2002) and mean value was taken into consideration. OBSERVATIONS AND RESULTS: Table no. 1 shows leaf anatomy of both plants along with their organoleptic characters. MICROSCOPIC CHARACTERS PREMNA SERRATIFOLIA L.

Transverse section of petiole: Diagrammatic T.S. of petiole showed presence of epidermis, cortex, pericyclic fibers, phloem, xylem and central pith. Epidermis was single layered, cuticularised, with compactly arranged oval to square shaped cells. Some of the epidermal cells were seen interrupted by multicellular warty, hooked and glandular sessile trichomes, which also consist of oil globules. Ground tissue was differentiated into two layers of hypodermis, which was formed by thick collenchyma cells followed by parenchyma cells which were filled with acicular crystals and prismatic crystals of calcium oxalate. Parenchymatous layer was followed by 3–5 layers of pericyclic fibres. Endodermis was observed to be single layered.

T.S. of leaf through midrib showed presence of upper and lower epidermis and centrally located vascular bundle. Epidermis: Upper epidermis was observed single layered, made up of rectangular shaped cells and covered with thick cuticle. Some of the epidermal cells were interrupted by presence of multicellular warty, hook shaped and sessile glandular trichomes. Lower epidermis was found to be oval to rectangular in shape and was interrupted by multicellular warty and sessile glandular trichomes and also showed interruption by some stomatal openings. Mesophyll was differentiated into upper layer of palisade parenchyma cells which were found to be arranged compactly without any intracellular space, and was highly loaded with chlorophyll pigments. Lower parenchyma showed 3–4 layers of spongy parenchyma, whose cells were round to irregular in shape and having air spaces between them and also loaded by chlorophyll pigments. Both the spongy and palisade parenchyma layers showed presence of oil globules. Between palisade and spongy parenchyma cells, strands of vascular strands were present. Single layer of collenchyma cells was present on both upper and lower epidermis. Discontinuous bands of pericyclic fibers covered the vascular bundle. Vascular bundle showed phloem towards lower epidermis and xylem towards upper epidermis. Phloem was made up of phloem fibers and some sieve plates while xylem consists of xylem parenchyma and its fibers (Plate 1. A. 6).

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Table no 1. Comparative morphology of P.serratifolia L. & C.phlomidis L.f. leaves (Plate 1. A 2 & B 2) Parameters Colour Size Apex Shape Odour Taste Margin Base Texture Venation

Premna serratifolia L. Bright green 9 × 3.4 cm Acuminate Obovate or elliptic Characteristic Pungent and bitter Entire or finely serrate Cuneate or rounded Coriaceous, glabrous Reticulate, 4-5pairs

Clerodendrum phlomidis L.f. Green 8 × 5 cm Acute Rhomboid ovate Characteristic Pungent, bitter and sweet Crenate-dentate Sub-cordate Velvety Reticulate, 4-5 pairs

Surface study: Lower epidermis:

Leaf powder microscopy:

Diacytic type of stomata were found to be present, which measured 0.8 × 0.4 mm, 0.8 × 0.5 mm, 0.7 × 0.4 mm at different angles with their mean size to be around 0.8 × 0.4 mm. Glandular sessile type of trichomes were found all over periphery, which had a radius of 5 mm, 6 mm and 5 mm, having mean radius of 5.3 mm. Multicellular warty trichome were also present with 8 celled structure. Stomatal Index i.e. ratio of number of stomata present to the number of epidermal cells surrounding each stomata was observed to be 28.45. Two glandular sessile trichomes were found to be present in per square mm area.

Leaf powder was dark green in colour, somewhat coarse in touch with characteristic smell and bitter-pungent taste.

Upper epidermis: Greenish chlorophyll pigments were found more in upper epidermis section as compared to lower epidermis. Diacytic type of stomata were present which measured 0.7 × 0.4 mm, 0.8 × 0.3 mm, 0.9 × 0.4 mm at different angles with mean size of 0.8 × 0.4 mm. Glandular sessile trichomes were also present with radius of 5 mm, 4 mm, 5 mm at various angles with average radius of 4.6 mm. Stomatal Index observed was 25.19. Only one glandular trichome was present in per square mm area.

Microscopic examination showed presence of multicellular warty trichomes, spongy parenchyma cells, simple fibres, oil globules, spiral vessels, prismatic crystals, brown content, epidermal cells, glandular trichome fragments (Plate 1. B. 8). MICROSCOPIC CHARACTERS CLERODENDRUM PHLOMIDIS L.f.

Transverse section of petiole: Diagrammatic sketch showed round to oval shaped section with presence of multicellular warty trichomes which covers the epidermis followed by hypodermis and central ground tissue. Epidermis was single layered, cuticularised with compactly arranged cells. The epidermal cells had numbers of multicellular warty trichomes, hook shaped trichomes and sessile glandular trichomes. Two types of sessile trichomes, one filled with oil and other multicellular sessile trichomes were present.

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Hypodermis was made up of 6–7 layers of collenchyma cells compactly arranged without any air space. Ground tissue was made up of parenchyma cells, some of which were filled with chlorophyll pigments. Parenchyma cells showed presence of prismatic crystals of calcium oxalate and rhomboidal crystals.

respectively in one exposed area. Number of epidermal cells in that area was 36, 48, 42. Their ratio i.e. stomatal Index was observed to be 14.193. Two glandular sessile trichomes were present in per square mm area.

Vascular bundles were situated at the centre, having arc shape, open and collateral in arrangement. Phloem was situated beneath xylem and consisted of phloem fibres and sieve elements (Plate 1. B. 3, 4, 5).

Greenish chlorophyll pigments were more in upper epidermis as compared to lower epidermis. Anamocytic type of stomata’s were present measuring 0.9 × 0.4 mm, 0.9 × 0.3 mm, 0.9 × 0.4 mm at different angles with mean size of 0.9 × 0.4 mm. Glandular sessile trichomes with radius of 5 mm, 4 mm, 5 mm at various angles with average radius of 5 mm were present. Number of stomata present at various angles in particular observed area was 5, 5, 6 respectively while number of epidermal cells in that area of observation were 36, 33, 33 respectively. Stomatal Index was 9.7. Only one glandular trichome was present in per square mm area. Multicellular warty trichomes were also present.

Transverse section through midrib: Epidermis – In both upper and lower epidermis, presence of multicellular warty trichomes, hooked trichomes and glandular sessile trichomes was seen. Some of the epidermal cells were found interrupted by stomatal openings. Epidermis was covered with cuticle. Epidermal cells and trichomes showed presence of colouring matter in them. Mesophyll was differentiated into upper palisade and lower spongy parenchyma cells. Palisade parenchyma consisted of 2 layers, while spongy parenchyma consisted of 4–5 layers of parenchyma cells. Between spongy and palisade parenchyma many vascular strands were passing and both layers were filled with oil globules. Vascular bundle showed phloem towards lower epidermis and xylem towards upper epidermis. Phloem was made up of phloem fibers and some sieve plates and xylem consisted of xylem parenchyma and its fibers (Plate 1. B. 6).

Upper epidermis:

Leaf powder microscopy: Leaf powder was pale green in colour, smooth in touch with characteristic smell and pungent-bitter and somewhat sweet taste. Microscopic examination showed similar characters as that of P. serratifolia L. i.e. presence of multicellular warty trichome, spongy parenchyma cell, simple fibre, oil globule, spiral vessel, prismatic crystal, brown content, epidermal cell, glandular trichome fragments (Plate 1. B. 8) and presence of rhomboidal crystal fragments in addition.

Surface study: Lower epidermis: Anamocytic type of stomata were present, measuring 0.7 × 0.4 mm, 0.6 × 0.3 mm, 0.6 × 0.3 mm at different angles with mean size of 0.6 × 0.3 mm. Glandular sessile type of trichomes were present, with radius of 5 mm, 4 mm and 5 mm, having mean radius of 4.6 mm. Multicellular warty trichomes with 6celled structure were present. Number of stomata present at different angles was 7, 6, 8

Table no. 2 shows the comparative micrometric evaluation of both leaves with reference to size of prismatic crystals, rhomboidal crystals, trichomes, stomata etc. along with observation for starch grains and oil globules. Table no. 3 shows the comparative qualitative analysis for presence of various phtyo-constituents in both leaf samples.

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Global J Res. Med. Plants & Indigen. Med. | Volume 5, Issue 6 | June 2016 | 183–193

Table no. 2: Comparative micrometric evaluation of P. serratifolia L. and C. phlomidis L.f. leaf powder. S.No

Character

Crystal – 1. Rhomboidal 2. Prismatic

Trichomes – 1. Warty 2. Multicellular 3. Hook shaped 4. Glandular- oil filled 5. Glandular-multihead

Stomata – (fragments) 1. Anomocytic 2. Diacytic

Fragments of fiber Fragments of spongy parenchyma Fragments of epidermal cells Fragments of annular vessels Oil globules Starch grains

4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Premna serratifolia L.

Clerodendrum phlomidis L.f.

Absent Present

Present Present

Present Present Present Present Absent

Measurements PS (mm)

CP (mm)

−

0.4×0.2 0.6×0.3 0.5×0.3 (Plate 1. A. (Plate 9) 1.B.9)

Present Present Present Present Present

7.5×.5 4.0×0.5 1.5×0.4 1.2×0.5 −

5.5×0.6 3.0×0.6 1.6×0.3 1.2×0.3 1.0×0.3

−

Absent Present

Present Absent

0.6×0.4 0.8×0.4 (Plate B. (Plate 1. A. 7) 7) -

Present Present

8.7×0.3 −

8.5×0.2 −

Present Present Present Present

− − − −

Table no. 3. Phyto-constituent confirmation tests: S.No

Reagent

Observation

Iodine Starch

Ferric Tannin HCl–Calcium HCl–Lignin

3. 4. 5.

solution– Macroscopic- it become blackish Microscopic- found round shape particles chloride– Samples become blackish

Characteristics PS CP + +

It produced bubbles Lignified elements become red in colour Sudan III solution– It becomes red in colour Oilglobules PS – Premna serratifolia L.; CP – Clerodendrum phlomidis L.f.

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+ +

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Plate 1. Comparative photographs of Premna serratifolia L. and Clerodendrum phlomidis L.f. leaves:

A. 1. P.serratifolia L. -Natural habitat

A. 2. P.serratifolia L. Measurement of collected leaves

B. 1.C. phlomidis L.f.-Natural habitat

B. 2. C. phlomidis L.f. Measurement of collected leaves

A. 3. P. serratifolia L. Transverse section B. 3. C. phlomidis L.f. Transverse section through petiole through petiole

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A. 4. P. serratifolia L.Vascular bundles

B. 4. C. phlomidis L.f. Vascular bundles

A. 5. P.serratifolia L. Warty, sessile trichomes

B. 5. C. phlomidis L.f. Warty, bicellular stalked glandular trichomes

A. 6. P.serratifolia L. Transverse section through mid-rib

B. 6. C. phlomidis L.f. Transverse section through mid-rib

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A. 7. P.serratifolia L. Measurement of stomata

B. 7. C. phlomidis L.f. Measurement of stomata

A. 8. P.serratifolia L. Fragments of spiral vessels B. 8. C. phlomidis L.f. Fragments of spiral vessels

A. 9. P.serratifolia L. Prismatic crystal of calcium oxalate

B. 9. C. phlomidis L.f. Rhomboidal crystal of calcium oxalate

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DISCUSSION: Macroscopically Premna serratifolia L. and Clerodendrum phlomidis L.f. showed characteristic difference in their leaf shape, size, margin, apex, base, touch etc. Organoleptic characters i.e. colour, odour, taste and texture were almost similar in both varieties of Agnimantha. External morphology of any plant gives basic idea regarding its family. Plants belonging to same family exhibit certain common traits. Premna serratifolia L. and Clerodendrum phlomidis L.f. both belonging to family lamiaceae, possess strong irritant odour in their leaves. Transverse section through petiole of P.serratifolia L. leaves showed presence of only prismatic crystals of calcium oxalate while C.phlomidis L.f. showed presence of rhomboidal crystals along with prismatic crystals. Multicellular warty trichomes, hooked trichomes and sessile glandular trichomes were present in P. serratifolia L. leaves. C. phlomidis L.f. leaves showed in addition, presence of bicellular stalked multicellular trichomes. Mid-rib section of both leaves showed presence of upper and lower epidermis interrupted by warty, hooked and glandular trichomes along with stomatal opening. C. phlomidis L.f. leaves showed presence of colouring matter in epidermal cells which was absent in P. serratifolia L. leaves. Leaf powder of both showed presence of similar characters like oil globules filled with starch grains, brown vessels, spiral vessels, prismatic crystal fragments etc. Clerodendrum leaf powder showed fragments of rhomboidal crystals in addition.

were almost similar. Warty trichomes of P.serratifolia L. were somewhat bigger in size as compared to that of C. phlomidis L.f. Stomatal Index is fixed for particular plant species. Both varieties showed differences in stomata type and stomatal index. Stomatal Index was very high 28.45 (lower) and 25.19 (upper) in P.serratifolia and comparatively low 14.19 (lower) and 9.7 (upper) in C.phlomidis, which can be considered as differentiation character and identifying tool for both varieties. Both varieties showed presence of similar phytoconstituents like calcium, lignin, tannin, starch and oil globules. Presence of starch grains justifies use of Agnimantha leaves as vegetable (Tarkari), as it is included in Shaaka varga by Acharya Sushruta (YT Acharya, 2014). CONCLUSION: Both Brihat-Agnimantha and LaghuAgnimantha are having Tikta, Katu rasa (bitter, pungent), Laghu-ruksha guna (easy to digest and ununctous), Ushna-veerya (hot in potency) and Katu-vipaka (decreasing faecal quantity) and are attributed with Deepana (appetizer), Pachana (digestive), Shothahara (antiinflammatory) and Kapha-vatahara properties. External morphology and stomatal Index of both leaves showed significant difference but showed similar organoleptic and microscopic characters. Presence of rhomboidal crystals, bicellular stalked multicellular glandular trichomes were special features in Clerodendrum phlomidis leaves. Both leaves showed presence of same phyto-constituents indicating towards possibility of similar pharmacological properties, which needs to be tested further pharmacologically and clinically, to justify their substitution.

Micrometric measurements of prismatic crystals and hooked trichomes of both varieties REFERENCES: Gokhale SB, Kokate CK (2008), Practical Pharmacognosy, Pune: Pragati Books Pvt; p. 13.

Hari Sadashiva Pt, (2014), Ashtanga Hridaya commentary by Pandit harisadashiva shashtri, Sutrasthana 15/22, Chowkhambha Surbharati Prakashana, Varanasi, pg. 236

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J.D.Hooker, (2006), The flora of British India, L.Reeve & Co.Ltd, England., Vol 4, pg.590 Kokate

CK, (2005), Practical Pharmacognosy. 4th ed. Delhi: Vallabh Prakashan; pp. 7–9. (22–3).

PV Sharma, (2006), Kaiyadeva Nighantu, Aaushadhi varga, shloka no. 26, Chowkhambha Surbharati Prakashana, Varanasi, pg.8 PY Mali, (2015). Ancient science of life; Department of pharmacology, Maharashtra, 35(1):4–11

Snowdon DW, Janckson BP, (2005)., Atlas of microscopy of medicinal plants, culinary herbs and spices. 1st ed. New Delhi: CBS Publishers and Distributors. pp. 14–7. Wallis

TE, (2002). Text book of Pharmacognosy, Publishers & Distributors 5th New Delhi Edi., CBS P. 123–132, 210–215.

Acharya, (2014). Charaka samhita commentary by yadavji tikamji acharya, sutrasthana 4/16, Chowkhambha Surbharati Prakashana, Varanasi, pg 34

YT. Acharya, (2014), Sushruta Samhita. With Commentry Nibandhsangraha, Dalhana, Chaukhambha Krishnadas Academy Varanasi, pp.232

Source of Support: NIL

Conflict of Interest: None Declared

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Review article AN AYURVEDIC OUTLOOK TO MUKHA LEPA (FACE PACK) FOR BEAUTY CARE Anupama Shukla1*, Pankaj Kothari2, Akhilesh Shukla3, CR Yadav4 1

P.G. Scholar, Dept. of Sharira Kriya, National Institute of Ayurveda, Jaipur-302001, Rajasthan, India PhD Scholar, Dept. of Sharira Kriya, National Institute of Ayurveda, Jaipur-302001, Rajasthan, India 3 Lecturer, Dept. of Ayurveda Samhita and Siddhanta, Govt. Ayurveda College, Bilaspur, Chhattisgarh, 495001, India 4 Assistant Professor, Dept. of Sharira Kriya, National Institute of Ayurveda, Jaipur-302001, Rajasthan, India *Corresponding Author: E-mail: dr.anupamashukla@gmail.com 2

Received: 14/05/2016; Revised: 15/06/2016; Accepted: 20/06/2016

ABSTRACT Beauty, the quality that gives pleasure to the senses, is perhaps the desire of every human being on earth. Some are born beautiful and some are made beautiful. The concept of using herbs for the beautification is well described in Ayurvedic literature. Since centuries the herbal extracts, as a whole or part, have been used for various ailments of the skin, hair and for overall appearance. The herbal paste which is applied on face to treat acne, pimple, scars, marks and pigments are known as “Mukha Lepa (face pack)” in Ayurveda. There are various kinds of face packs described in Ayurveda based on climatic changes which have nourishing, healing, cleansing, astringent and antiseptic properties. The present article is aimed to provide the details about the concept of Mukha lepa, the drugs useful for improving complexion and for the common skin ailments. For this, the material was collected from the main classical texts and Nighantus of Ayurveda including published scholarly articles. Overall it can be said that, it is always better to avoid synthetic, chemical based cosmetic products and use the natural substances and products for beautification. KEY WORDS: Mukha Lepa, Ayurveda, face pack, beauty care cosmetics

Cite this article: Anupama Shukla, Pankaj Kothari, Akhilesh Shukla, CR Yadav (2016), AN AYURVEDIC OUTLOOK TO MUKHA LEPA (FACE PACK) FOR BEAUTY CARE, Global J Res. Med. Plants & Indigen. Med., Volume 5(6): 194–202

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Global J Res. Med. Plants & Indigen. Med. | Volume 5, Issue 6 | June 2016 | 194–202

INTRODUCTION: The word beauty is derived from the French literature „bellus’ means pretty, handsome, charming (Beauty n., online etymology dictionary). It is the natural desire of mankind to have a healthy and glamorous skin with attractive personality. But very few are blessed with naturally perfect skin. People always have great concern about their health and beauty (i.e. good looking). eauty is not just a visual experience; it is a characteristic that provides a perceptual experience to the eye, the ear, the intellect, the aesthetic faculty, or the moral sense. It is the qualities that give pleasure, meaning or satisfaction to the senses (J Rory Corbett, 2009). Various synthetic chemical based cosmetic products are used to look fairer and attractive. It was found that an average adult uses nine cosmetic products daily. More than 25% of women use 15 or more (Linda B, Sedlewicz BS., 2005). These cosmetics products, due to their multiple ingredients, are the top causes of toxicity exposure (Parkinson A., 1996). Cosmetics, toiletries, and skin-care products, including sunscreens, quite frequently cause adverse reactions, (Foley P, Nixon R, Marks R et al., 1993) and are the commonest single reason for hospital referrals with allergic contact dermatitis (De Groot AC., 1990). A great demand from Ayurveda in the field of cosmetology has been established due to its unique concept about beauty and effective, cheaper and long lasting beauty therapy without any side effect. The herbal paste which is applied on face to treat acne, pimple, scars, marks and pigments are known as “mukha lepa” in Ayurveda (Yadav N & Yadav R, 2015). Face pack is one of the well known effective and oldest methods which are cosmetic preparation spread over the face and left for some time to cleanse and improve the condition of the skin (Definition of face pack in English). They are allowed to dry or to set with the object of improving the appearance of the skin by producing a transient tightening effect as well as by cleansing the skin (SH. Sahasrabuddhe, 2015). Different types of skin

need different types of face packs. They help us in looking after skin and also prove its worthiness by increasing the circulation of the blood within the veins of the face. Face packs are helpful for preventive, promotive and curative aspects of any skin problems. Besmearing the face (with scented pastes etc.) imparts steadiness to the eyes, brings on a broad and graceful contour of the cheeks and mouth, produces their healthful glow like that of a lotus flower and prevents its disfigurement by pimples, moles and such like growths and eruptions and Vyanga (blackish hyper pigmentation of skin over face) (Y.T. Acharya & Narayana Ram Acharya Kavyatirtha, 2008; Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010). The present review highlights the adverse effect of synthetic cosmetics and emphasizes the Ayurveda concept of Mukha lepa for beauty care. Seasonal Mukha lepa (Face pack): (Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010) In Ayurvedic classics various anointments are described based on seasons which help to keep the skin healthy and improves the complexion. The list of drugs useful for preparing Mukha Lepa in different seasons is shown in table no.1. Types of Mukha lepa: Mukha lepa (face pack) has been classified mainly into three types based on their therapeutic use- (Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010; Priyavrata Sharma & Guruprasad Sharma, 2009)  Doshahara (alleviator of Dosha): This variety of Lepa (face pack) includes such drugs which exerts their alleviatory action directly on the Doshas.  Vishahara (alleviator of poisonous effect): This kind of Lepa (face pack) includes the drugs which nullifies the poisons directly at local level after application.  Varnakrita (promoter of complexion): This kind of Lepa (face pack) includes the drugs which improve the complexion after application.

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Table No.1: Shows list of drugs useful for Mukhalepa in different seasons Season Hemanta (early Winter) Shishira (extreme Winter) Vasanta (Spring)

Grishma (Summer)

Varsha (Pravrita) (Rainy) Sharad (Autumn)

Drugs Cotyledon of Kola (Ziziphus mauritiana), root of Vrisha (Adathoda vasica), bark of Sabara (Symplocos racemosa), and Gaura Sarshapa (Brassica alba) (Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010) Root of simhi (Solanum anguivi), tila (Sesamum indicum), Krishna (Piper longum), bark of Darvi (Coscinium fenestratum) and dehusked barley (Hordeum vulgare) (Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010) Root of Darbha (Desmostachya bipinnata), Hima (Santalum album), Ushira (Vetiveria zizanioides), Sirisha (Albizia lebbeck), Mishi (Foeniculum vulgare Mill) and Tandula (Oryza sativa) (Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010) Kumuda (Nymphaea nouchali), Utpala (Nymphaea stellata) kalhara (Nymhoea alba) Durva (Cynodon dactylon), Madhuka (Glycyrrhiza glabra) and Chandana (Pterocarpus Santalinus) (Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010) Kaliyaka (Aquilaria agallocha), Tila (Sesamum indicum), Ushira (Vetiveria zizaniodes), Mamsi (Nardostachys jatamansi), Tagara (Valeriana wallichi) and Padmaka (Prunus cerasoides) (Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010) Talisa (Abies webbiana), Gundra (Saccharum arundinaceum), Pundravha (Saccharum officinarum), Yasthi (Glycyrrhiza glabra), Kasa (Saccharum spontaneum), Nata (Valeriana wallichi), and Agaru (Aquilaria agallocha) (Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010).

Properties of a good quality Mukha lepa: (Piyush V Pampaniya (2011)  It should be a smooth paste without gritty particles.  The drugs should be uniformly mixed.  Sufficient liquid media should be added in preparation of face pack.  It should have pleasant odour.  It should produce a significant cleansing of skin.  It should be non toxic to the skin.  When applied to the face, it should dry out rapidly to form an adherent coating on face.  The coating should be such which can be removed either by piling or by gentle washing and should not cause any discomfort to face. METHOD OF LEPA APPLICATION: Doshika consideration of Mukha Lepa: In Vatakapha condition the Lepa should be

slightly warm and in other cases of Pitta involvement and Varnya Lepa (facepack for improving complexion), it should be cold in nature (Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010). Thickness of Mukha Lepa: One fourth, one third & half Angula Pramana is the thickness of the Lepa respectively for Doshaghna, Vishaghna & Varnya Lepa. (One angula = 1.5 cm approx) (Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010). Time for Lepa application: Lepa should not be applied at nights nor should it be allowed to stay on after it dries up (Brahmananda Tripathi, 2013). Direction of Lepa application:  Lepa should be gently rubbed in an upward to opposite direction of hairs over the skin to make the action of application more

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quick & effective (Y.T. Acharya and Narayana Ram Acharya Kavyatirtha, 2008). Procedure after application of Mukha lepa: (Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010)  Lepa should be allowed to remain till it becomes dry; if left dry, it vitiates the complexion of the skin.  It should be removed after moistening and when removed, the face should be anointed with oil.  The person should avoid day sleep, excessive talk, exposure to fire and sunlight, sorrow and anger. Contraindication of Mukha lepa: (Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010) It should not be applied to persons suffering from Pinasa (rhinorrhoea), Ajirna (indigestion), immediately after Nasya Karma (nasal drops), Hanugraha (lock jaw), Arochaka (anorexia) and after keeping awake the previous night. Benefits of Mukhalepa: If properly applied, it cures premature greying of hairs, Vyanga (blackish hyper pigmentation of face), wrinkles, Timira (blurring of vision), and Nilika (bluish hyper pigmentation). Face pack combinations for common skin complaints: 1. Paste prepared from equal part of Rakta Chandana (Pterocarpus santalinus), Kustha (Saussurea lappa), Lodhra (Symplocos racemosa), Dhanyaka (Coriandrum sativum) and Vacha (Acorus calamus) are useful for teenage to check pimples and darkness (Shailendra Mani Tripathi, 2003). 2. A paste prepared from the powder of prickles taken out from the bark of Salmali (Salmalia malabarica), in milk is very effective for acne and pimples. Result of

this paste can be seen after 3 days of application. Skin becomes soft and silky (Shailendra Mani Tripathi, 2003). 3. Paste of Masura (Lens culinaris), Manjistha (Rubia cordifolia), apical bud of Vata (Ficus benghalensis) & honey mixed in equal parts, applied as face packis useful for blackish blue patches (Shailendra Mani Tripathi, 2003). 4. Powder of Shalmali Kantaka (prickles of Salmalia malabarica), buds of Vata (Ficus bengalensis), Jatiphala (Myristica fragrans), Lodhra tvak (Bark of Symplocos racemosa), Masura (Lens culinaris) and Rakta chandana (Pterocarpus santalinus) in equal quantity mixed with sufficient quantity of milk gives good result on Acne (Piyush V Pampaniya, 2011). 5. Powder of Lodhra (Symplocos racemosa), Dhanyaka (Coriandrum sativum) and Vacha (Acorus calamus) (Brahmananda Tripathi, 2013) in equal quantity mixed with sufficient quantity of milk (without cream) gives good result in Yauvan pidika (acne) (Ramesh Chandra Aruna, 2002). Classical drugs for improving face complexion and to cure common skin ailments: In Charaka Samhita numerous drugs are described for improving the complexion and for the treatment of skin ailments. Like Varnya dashemani (ten complexion promoter drugs) shown in table no.2, Kusthaghna dashemani (ten drugs for curing skin diseases), shown in table no.3. The group of drugs and single drugs having Varnya action described in Ayurvedic classics and Nighantus are described in Table no. 4 & 5. The drugs (Table no. 3,4,5) both as externally and internally. can be used for face wash or as improve the glow of skin and ailments.

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can be used Externally it face pack to to treat the

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Table No.2. : Varnya Dashemani (ten complexion promoter drugs) (Y.T. Acharya, 2007) S.No. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Sanskrit name Chandana Tunga Padmaka Ushira Madhuka Manjistha Sariva Paysya Sita Lata

Botanical Name Santalum album L. Calophyllum inophyllum L. Prunus cerasoides Buch.-Ham. ex D.Don Chrysopogon zizanioides (L.) Roberty Glycyrrhiza glabra L. Rubia cordifolia L. Hemidesmus indicus (L.) R. Br. ex Schult. Jacquemontia paniculata (Burm. f.) Hallier f. White variety of Cynodon dactylon (L.) Pers. Black variety of Cynodon dactylon (L.) Pers.

Table No.3 : Kusthaghna Dashemani (ten drugs for curing skin ailments) (Y.T. Acharya, 2007) S.No. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Sanskrit Name Khadira Abhaya Amalaka Haridra Arushkara Saptaparna Aragvadha Karvira Vidanga Jatipravala

Botanical Name Acacia catechu (L.f.) Willd. Terminalia chebula Retz. Phyllanthus emblica L. Curcuma longa L. Semecarpus anacardium L.f. Alstonia scholaris (L.) R. Br. Cassia fistula L. Nerium oleander L. Embelia ribes Burm.f. Tenders shoots of Jasminum officinale L.

Table No. 4: Groups of drugs having Varnya action S.No. 1. 2. 3. 4.

Name Eladi gana Panchavalkala Rodhradi gana Trijataka Chaturjataka

Reference Su.Su.38/25 Dhanvantari Nighantu Mishrakadi Varga /15-16 Su.Su.38/15 and B.P.Pu. Karpuradi Varga/ 61-62, Kai.Ni.Aushadha varga/ 1348-1349

Kai. Ni. – Kaiyadev Nighantu, B.P.Pu. – Bhavaprakasha Purvakhanda , Su.Su. – Sushruta Samhita Sutrasthana

DISCUSSION: Cosmetics, toiletries, and skin-care Products, including sunscreens etc. quite frequently cause adverse reactions. (Foley P et al., 1993) It is estimated that 1.3% of the population are allergic to a cosmetic or cosmetic ingredient (De Groot AC et al., 1988).

Mercury is one of the common ingredient found in skin lightening soaps and creams, (Mercury in skin lightening products - World Health Organization) which are commonly used in certain African and Asian nations (WHO, 2008; UNEP, 2008). In India, 61% of the dermatological market consists of skin lightening products (Ladizinski B et al., 2011).

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Table No. 5: shows the list of drugs having Varnya action and can be used as face pack or for face wash. S.No . 1. 2.

Sanskrit name Botanical / English name

Reference

Ashoka Chandana

Saraca asoca (Roxb.) Willd. Santalum album L.

Dugdha

Milk

4. 5. 6.

Ghrita Godhuma Kamala

Ghee wheat lotus

Kumkuma

Crocus sativus L.

Madhu

Honey

Mudga

Vigna radiata (L.) R.Wilczek

B.P.Pu. Pushpa varga/ 38 Kai.Ni.Aushadha varga/1268, Madanpala Nighantu Karpuradi varga/9 Kai.Ni.Drava varga/118 Madanpala Nighantu Paniyadi varga/64 Kai.Ni.Dhanya varga/ 264 Madanpala Nighantu Dhanya varga/22 B.P.Pu. Pushpa varga/ 4, Madanpala Nighantu Karpuradi varga/79 Kai.Ni.Aushadha varga/1302, Nighantu Shesha Gulma Kanda/234 B.P.Pu. Karpuradi Varga/ 67, Madanpala Nighantu Karpuradi varga/14, Shodhala Nighantu Chandandi varga/ 330 Kai.Ni.Aushadhi Varga/175 B.P.Pu. Mishra prakarana Madhu varga/4, Madanpala Nighantu Ikshukadi varga/26 Kai.Ni.Dhanya varga/53

10. 11.

Nyagrodha Pashanabheda

Madanadi nighantu trinsha gana/ 4 Madnadi nighantu ekonvimsha gana/ 6

12. 13. 14.

Patanga Rakta Chandana Raktashali

Ficus benghalensis L. Bergenia ciliata (Haw.) Sternb. Caesalpinia sappan L. Pterocarpus santalinus L.f. Red variety of rice

15.

Sarja

Vateria indica L.

16.

Shirisha

Albizia lebbeck (L.) Benth.

Kai.Ni.Dhanya varga/9 B.P.Pu. Dhanya varga/ 14 Kai.Ni.Aushadha varga/842, Madanpala Nighantu Karpuradi varga/43 Dhanvantari Nighantu Amradi Varga/ 114

17.

Yasthimadhu

Glycyrrhiza glabra L.

Kai.Ni.Aushadha varga/1129

Shodhala nighantu candanadi varga/ 328 Shodhala nighantu candanadi varga/ 327

Kai. Ni. – Kaiyadev Nighantu, B.P.Pu. – Bhavaprakasha Purvakhanda, Su.Su. – Sushruta Samhita Sutrasthana

The main adverse effect of the inorganic mercury contained in skin lightening soaps and creams is kidney damage (Engler DE, 2005). Mercury in skin lightening products may also cause skin rashes, skin discoloration and scarring, as well as a reduction in the skin‟s resistance to bacterial and fungal infections (UNEP, 2008; Ladizinski B et al., 2011). Other

effects include anxiety, depression or psychosis and peripheral neuropathy (UNEP, 2008, Glahder CM et al., 1999; Ladizinski B et al., 2011). Mercury-containing skin lightening products are hazardous to health and as a result have been banned in many countries (Mercury in skin lightening products - World Health Organization). Despite that it is still marketed

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and not completely stopped. The recent interest of consumers in herbal cosmetics has been stimulated mainly by the decline of faith in modern cosmetics, the belief that plants based cosmetics products are superior to man-made synthetic cosmetics and the reference to successful historical use by different cultures (Prashant L Kole, & Hemant R Jadhav et al., 2005). Various drugs which are used in preparation of Ayurveda Mukh Lepa, make skin healthy in natural way and enhances the complexion without causing any adverse reaction. It can be also effectively used to get rid of common skin ailments like acne vulgarise, hyper pigmented patches, scar marks etc. CONCLUSION: The face is the feature which distinguishes a person. It is one of the parameter to identify a person. The face is the window of the body and mind, which allows us to communicate with the world around us. The concern of face has taken first place in the present era and all people try to keep their face neat and clean because the

face is directly exposed to the external environment and get easily affected by the environmental changes. The recent interest of consumers in herbal cosmetics has been stimulated by the decline of faith in modern cosmetics, the belief that plant based cosmetics products are superior to man-made synthetic cosmetics and the reference to successful historical use by different cultures. These reasons have contributed to the increased acceptance as well as manufacture of herbal cosmetics. Use of Mukha lepa increases beauty and imparts freshness. It is better to avoid synthetic chemical based cosmetic products and use the natural substances and products. It will make skin healthy, prevent from skin diseases and improve complexion. Herbal face packs increase the fairness and smoothness of skin, also able to cure wrinkles, dark circles, pimples etc. One can derive the maximum benefits of herbal face packs by using them according to their skin type. Face packs are helpful for preventive and curative purpose of any skin problems.

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De Groot AC. (1990) Labelling cosmetics with their ingredients. Br Med J; 300:1636–8 Definition of face pack in English retrieved on 21 June 2016 from http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/defi nition/english/face-pack] Engler DE (2005). Letter to the editor: Mercury “bleaching” creams. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6):1113–1114. Foley P, Nixon R, Marks R. Frowen K, Thompson S. (1993), The frequency of reactions to sunscreens: Results of a longitudinal population based study on the regular use of sunscreen in Australia. Br J Dermatol 128:512–8.

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Glahder CM, Appel PWU, Asmund G (1999). Mercury in soap in Tanzania. Copenhagen, Ministry of Environment and Energy, National Environmental Research Institute (NERI Technical Report No. 306; http://www2.dmu.dk/1_viden/2_publika tioner/3_fagrapporter/rapporter/fr306.pd f) Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, (2010) Asthanga Hridaya of Vagbhata, Sutrasthahana, Chap-22, Sutra 14–22, Arunadatta & Hemadri commentary, Chaukhambha Surabharati Prakashana,, p. 300–301. J Rory Corbett (2009), Ulster Med J. May; 78(2): 84–89. PMCID: PMC2699193 Ladizinski B, Mistry N, Kundu RV (2011). Widespread use of toxic skin lightening compounds: medical and psychosocial aspects. Dermatologic Clinics, 29:111– 123. Linda B, Sedlewicz BS., (2005), Cosmetic preservatives: Friend or foe? Skinmed 2005; 4:8–100. Mercury in skin lightening products - World Health Organization, retrieved on 21 June 2016 from www.who.int/ipcs/assessment/public_h ealth/mercury_flyer.pdf

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V Pampaniya (2011), Effect of Shalmalyadi Lepa (face pack) and Guduchyadi vati in the management of Yuvan pidika w.s.r. to Acne. Dept of Kayachikitsa Institute of Post Graduate Teaching & Research in Ayurveda, Jamnagar, Gujarat Ayurved University

Prashant L Kole, Hemant R Jadhav, Prasad Thakurdesai and Anantha Naik Nagappa, (2005), Cosmetic Potential of Herbal Extracts, Indian Journal of Natural Products and Resources, NPR Vol.4 (4) July-Aug, p. 315–321. Priyavrata Sharma and Guruprasad Sharma, (2009) Kaiyadeva Nighantu, Viharavarga, Sutra 56, (PathyapathyaVibodhaka), Chaukhamba Orientalia, Varanasi, p.493. Ramesh Chandra Aruna (2002), Shankhabhasma evam Yuvanpidikahara Lepa (face pack) ka nirmanatamaka tatha Yauvana pidika vyadhi par prabhavatmaka adhyayan, PG Thesis, Dept of Rasa Shastra and Bhaishajya Kalpana, Institute of Post Graduate Teaching & Research in Ayurveda, Jamnagar, Gujarat Ayurved University SH. Sahasrabuddhe (2015), Parsley Leaf Extract as an Oil Controller In peel off Mask, International Journal of Pharmaceutical, Chemical and Biological sciences 5(4), 770–774. Shailendra Mani Tripathi (2003), Skin Care, Natural Product Radiance Vol 2 (4) July-August, p- 216–217 UNEP (2008). Mercury in products and wastes. Geneva, United Nations Environment Programme, Division of Technology, Industry and Economics, Chemicals Branch (http://www.unep.org/chemicalsandwas te/Portals/9/Mercury/AwarenessPack/E nglish/UNEP_Mod1_UK_Web.pdf) WHO

(2008), Guidance for identifying populations at risk from mercury exposure. Geneva, World Health Organization.

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Y.T. Acharya (2007) Charaka Samhita, repr., Sutrasthana, Chapter 4, Sutra 10, Chakrapani commentary Chaukhamba Orientalia, Varanasi, p.32. Y.T. Acharya and Narayana Ram Acharya Kavyatirtha (2008), Sushruta Samhita,

Source of Support:

NIL

Chaukhambha Surabharati Prakashana, Varanasi, p. 85, 489. Yadav N & Yadav R, (2015), Preparation and Evaluation of Herbal Face Pack, International Journal of Recent Scientific Research, Vol. 6, Issue, 5, p.4334â&#x20AC;&#x201C;4337.

Conflict of Interest: None Declared

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