April 2017

Cape Cod

When the coast is clear

RIDE EAT SLEEP DISCOVER

W H A T ’ S

I N S I D E

MO NT HLY C O L U M NS Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................4 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................6 POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE.......................7 ON THE MARK ....................................................8

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

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Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Dr. Seymour O’Life

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MYSTERIOUS AMERICA..................................15 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ..............17 BIG CITY GETAWAY .........................................19

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WE’RE OUTTA HERE ........................................21 SHIRA’S INSIDE SCOOP ..................................24 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE ............................46 UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ...................48

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2017. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

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APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJeN

Not So EaSy RidER thEy had it Right iN thE 70S Over the decades the government and researchers have spent millions of dollars trying to find out the reasons so many motorcycle riders have accidents. I could have told them for the price of a nice lunch.

There was the famous Hurt Study and recently a more modern look at the common thread to these incidents and accidents.

As with many such studies the answers are more or less straightforward and it seems that, other than the additional danger of texting teenage girls and other electronic distractions, the issues that motorcyclists need to be aware of have not really changed in decades.

This was ever more apparent when watching a film on Motorcycle Safety called ‘Not So Easy Rider’ sent to me by my friend and rider safety instructor Laurie Mack.

This interesting short (18 minutes) was made back in 1972 by producer and bike builder Cliff Vaughs (he built the bikes for Easy Rider) and features both Peter Fonda and Evel Knievel.

Like me, Laurie thought it a bit dated, a little bit funny, but we both agreed it carried a message and information that is still as pertinent today as it was in the early 70s.

Not So Easy Rider starts with Fonda doing some riding scenes along the twisty Los Angles region canyons and then stopping to tell the viewer that riding bikes is not so easy and that most car operators seem to drive their cars like they are “asleep, blind or drunk”.

Many still drive this way today – add in preoccupied as well.

I liked this film in other ways too, as it featured a woman rider and producer Vaughs, a black man, was featured in many of the riding scenes.

Not So Easy Rider was a few years ahead of its time regarding inclusion.

The film touched on a number of subjects such as lane positioning, blind spots, oil build-up and traction. Some of the riding scenes were a bit interesting, yet still ring true today with multiple tasks being thrown at the riders – a Mustang cutting into their lane, a Pinto looming ahead and a Maverick pulling out into their space. It was like Ford sponsored this.

There was a section that showed a Los Angeles moto-cops drill team going through their paces.

The film makes the bold statement that motorcycles are safer that automobiles as they are quicker, handle more nimbly, brake better and offer better a degree of sight.

You won’t find me arguing.

The bikes, as you would think, were current for the time – but it was mentioned that some machines have the shift and rear brake on the other side. Conspicuity was dead during the 80s and 90s until Andy Goldfine and Aerostich reminded us that Loud Suits Save Lives.

Knievel’s cameo talked about the need for a good helmet – way ahead of its time – and how they are not only needed for protection of your head, but eye protection as well, and that “white” helmets can be seen better on the road.

Again, they state the obvious; that the MSF mantra of “see and be seen” is awfully true. There is a reason that highway workers and folks involved with traffic always wear bright hig-viz gear. Using these bright colors saves countless lives each year.

When we do small group rides we usually have Shira in the back as her high-viz Nolan N104 helmet stands out and when I glance in my mirrors I can easily spot her and know our group is still a team.

Back when they filmed ‘Not So Easy’ white was as bright as it got. Today’s conspicuous yellows, limes and oranges stand out far more. Still Knievel’s message stood out to me much like great motorcycle gear should today.

Have a little time? Grab a cup of coffee and watch the film. www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eFNcbltDnM&feature=share

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APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL

BESt iN Show One of my favorite ways to pass the winter is to watch the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show.

There are seven groups: Hound, Toy, Non-Sporting, Herding, Sporting, Working and Terrier all competing for the coveted award of Best in Show. For as long as I can remember, usually right around Valentine’s Day I’d plop in front of the set and cheer on these little, and some not so little, furry friends. The Westminster is the second oldest annual sporting event in the country, a mere 20 months younger than the Kentucky Derby. A bit of history, if you don’t mind: “Westminster gets its name from a long gone hotel in Manhattan. There, sporting gentlemen used to meet in the bar to drink and lie about their shooting accomplishments. Eventually they formed a club and bought a training area and kennel. They kept their dogs there and hired a trainer.

“They couldn’t agree on the name for their new club. But finally someone suggested that they name it after their favorite bar. The idea was unanimously selected, we imagine, with the hoisting of a dozen drinking arms.” – Maxwell Riddle, from a newspaper story quoted in “The Dog Show, 125 Years of Westminster” by William Stifel In 1877, these fine gents got together to see who had the top dog at the club and held the First Annual New York Bench Show of Dogs at the Gilmore’s Garden, the forerunner of Madison Square Garden,

with an entry of 1,201 dogs. To show the enormity of this show, think on this: Westminster pre-dates the invention of the light bulb, automobile, zipper, building of the Brooklyn Bridge, manned air flight, establishment of the World Series and, yes the motorcycle. Since its inception there have been 26 elected presidents and 12 states joining the union.

Brian and I usually make some popcorn and hunker down for the two-night affair, carefully choosing our favorites. We both favor the larger breeds, but who can help but smile at the little 5-pounds of energy like the Papillon or Toy Poodle. Personally, if Spenser would entertain a canine roommate, I’d opt for a member of the Working group such as a Boxer, Beauceron (French Shepherd) or Bergamasco (that one that looks like a giant mop).

This year, after talking about it for so many years, we decided to take a trip in on the Saturday before the show for the Meet and Compete. This affair is held on Pier 92/94 on 12th Avenue. Here you can see most of the breeds that will be competing and the purpose is for those looking to add a member to their family to get some much needed information before committing. Oh, so you think you’d like to bring an Irish Wolfhound into your 500 square foot city apartment? Probably wouldn’t even be able to turn around, much less stretch its legs. Just like buying your first motorcycle, put some thought into your decision because unlike a motorcycle, these beasties become part of your family. Well, perhaps there are those whose motorcycles are like that too.

The ‘Compete’ part of the day refers to the Agility Competitions. Here any variety of dog may take part in the running of the hurdles, ramps and tunnels that make up the course. Again it is broken into groups, from 8 to 24 inch, referring to the height of the obstacles. We figured Continued on Page 9

BACKROADS • APRIL 2017

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turn is completely shrouded in mystery, I tense up a bit. As we all know, tensing up is the last thing you should do in such circumstances but it’s something that is still a part of the human condition at times and can have very negative BILL HeALD effects. But this common scenario is not the real bugaboo in my road resume’s non-comfort zone, for it is now obvious there is one factor that can all dowNhill fRom hERE turn any otherwise splendid set of twisties into a bit of the old Awkward for First things first: it should be noted that as I me. Hey, it’s humbling to admit this fault is still present in my skill set, but write this, the record high temperature in AntarcI believe it is critical to always be aware of your limitations before you chaltica has just been verified to have reached over lenge them to destruction. In my case, it’s steep, fast downhill turns. Hard to 63 degrees. This number occurred in 2015, but believe, but it’s true. apparently it takes a very long time to verify such things. Contrast this with Don’t get me wrong, I can get down an abrupt set of downhill switchbacks the fact that the AMA had to cancel the ice racing finale in Michigan because with decent dispatch but the point is I’m never as comfortable as I should be it was too warm, as there wasn’t enough ice to race on. Imagine that. If I may doing it. There’s something about throwing in the silent, relentless push of suggest, how about having the final races in Antarctica from now on, and gravity that messes with my bidness. I’m better at dealing with it than I used have both ice AND pleasant temperatures? Hey, to, but I have yet to manage it effortlessly, even hink of the evolving riding after many years of riding. I’m a decent engine I’m just trying to help. We all hate when things get cancelled, right? environment and your at- and trail-braker, but I never can get the inputs as But what, you may ask, are the roads like in tempts to master it as land- smooth as I like (especially on fresh, unfamiliar Antarctica? Intriguing question, to be sure. Probroads). Riding well is never about speed but about ing a plane on an aircraft smoothness, and when you’re anxious it can pixably been flat for the most part. I had a scientist carrier in rough seas, with a ilate your aura, put sand in your pudding and othI used to work for that went to the continent every year, and was an expert of the current structure drunken mate at the helm. erwise introduce some Krap in your Karma. Such in the oceans around the place. The roads? He tension comes from uncertainty in getting my never mentioned them. But that was long ago, and they probably have shopspeed and mass management ahead of the road rather than reacting to it after ping malls now. Besides, my boss spent most of his time on a ship, anyway. the fact. And if the road is level? No matter what the turn, its camber or It’s where the currents are.

Chakra, I am much more at peace. And going up a curvy mountain pass?

Ah yes, roads. I have traveled many, and seen a fair amount of my time on Brothers and Sisters, I love me some uphill snaky roadage. I think it’s easily this earth rolling along through all kinds of terrains. Something dawned on my favorite type of situation, primarily because I find speed management is me the other day when I was on one of my favorite local tarmacs, and it was much more up to me. I’m better at applying power rather than rolling it back, not a very pleasant revelation. Years ago, I noticed on a trip up in Vermont and I find it a much simpler affair to keep control inputs smooth under such that despite feeling quite experienced at the time (I really wasn’t yet, but ah, circumstances. the impetuousness of youth) I still encountered certain types of roads that I I guess my overall conclusion here is twofold. First, know your limitations was far from comfortable riding on at a healthy clip. Examples? Well, whenand the situations you are less than comfortable with, and work on them ever you have a dramatically decreasing radius turn where the exit of said Continued on Page 9

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE

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APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

ON THE MARK MARK ByeRS

aPRil “Whan that Aprill with his shoures soote The droghte of March hath perced to the roote, And bathed every veyne in swich licour Of which vertu engendred is the flour…”

Geoffrey Chaucer, The Canturbury Tales Chaucer wrote that the sweet showers of April pierce the drought of March and bathe the flower roots in sweet liquor, or in short, April showers bring May flowers. In the same “veyne,” April also heralds the true start of another glorious motorcycle riding season for those of us in the latitudes where winter riding is made difficult by the presence of cold, snow, ice, and the resultant liberal applications of brine. April’s showers wash away the last vestiges of salt and leave us with clean, unfettered asphalt on which to ply our motorcycling trade.

Every once in a while, as happened this February, there’s a “false spring” that teases us with the warmest of days, only to have March slap us with her bitter, capricious, windy hands. There’s also the infamous potential for an “Easter Snow.” I remember crawling down off the Blue Ridge Parkway one Easter in a fog that would have made London proud, flashers alight, hoping I wouldn’t be hit from behind by someone less cautious. March is a bottom-of-the-deck weather dealer and you trust her at your peril.

But April – she with the name of a centerfold – will bring you back to motorcycling life. Oh sure, she’ll drench you, but on the bright side, her rain washes away the yellow pollen and leaves behind the smell that only a fresh

rain on asphalt can. The days are longer and the sun is stronger and every day begs for two-wheeled transportation. Around here, the heat and humidity have yet to become oppressive and I can still wear full riding gear without feeling like a foil-wrapped baked potato, fresh from the grill.

April’s when those plans you carefully crafted over long, winter nights in front of a fire and a good whiskey start bearing fruit. Motorcycle shops have open houses and poker runs seem to materialize everywhere. “Bike Nights” begin and so do the opportunities to take the weekend trips you planned. For those who didn’t plan ahead, service bays are hopping with tire changes and deferred maintenance, the dreaded results of a winter full of alcohol-laden fuel. April’s when people make tax-refund-fueled bike purchases, much to the dealer’s delight.

April’s got her dark side: seasonal riders and new riders and those who just haven’t quite shaken winter’s rust from their minds and skills start crashing, with predictably bad results. Car drivers, not used to seeing (or looking for) bikes, seem to need a period of acclimatization before they can even return to their normal state of ambivalence for those of us on two wheels. Beware of the drivers of April, for they see you not.

For me, April’s the beginning of bicycle race season and I start my itinerant jaunts all over the country to chase the lycra-clad warriors to keep them safe and to “keep it fair, keep it fair” (channeling Dangerfield in Caddyshack and my late mentor Dave “Big Guy” Miller). The first weekend sees me circling the country roads outside Charlottesville, working with the local police to keep the drivers and farm equipment away from competitors overstimulated by the promise of a new season.

The Jefferson Cup race, named for the proximity to Monticello, is our “la primavera,” the first race of the season. I’ve seen it in the 80’s for the race and it’s been snowed out – March hasn’t truly released her grip on the weather for that one.

Continued on Page 9

BACKROADS • APRIL 2017

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Continued from Page 6 whatchathiNkiN’ we’d take a walk past the competitions before heading to hug the dogs out to greet us. What a surprise! Our first encounter was a tiny spit of a dog – a Papillon named Sparkle – who was FLYING through this course. Not only does the dog need to be agile, speedy and super focused, the handler needs to be as fast or faster than the dog.

The announcers were commenting about the head turns of the dogs as they went from one hurdle to the next, making tight turns and limiting swoops. It made me think of motorcyclists navigating a twisty mountain road. To be able to focus on the task at hand, to turn your head as far as possible to look

ahead through and onto the next turn is so very important to smooth, safe and satisfying riding. Watching the eyes of these little guys and gals, looking to their handlers for direction and tearing ass for the prize, was mesmerizing.

What we thought would be a few minutes turned into at least an hour, as one after another took their try at the record. At the end of the day, a beautiful Border Collie named Trick ended up as top dog.

Taking a lesson from Trick, the next time you’re out and about, use that all-focusing dog tactic and follow through with each and every corner you encounter. You never know, you could end up being Best in Show.

Continued from Page 7 PoStcaRdS fRom thE hEdgE whenever possible while maintaining a substantial safety factor (that you can gradually diminish as you get more proficient). Obviously, in my case, the process is a slow one but I’m certainly not done yet. Which leads me to my second point, and I know you know it but it’s always good to remind oneself of its importance. No matter how long you’ve been doing something, you never, ever, stop learning. If you do, you’re toast. There are always holes in your otherwise stellar resume that need to be filled, and other items that are fairly clean but should be polished. Not only is riding a motorcycle an ongoing educational endeavor, we live in a world where the machines we have to deal with on the road are getting more erratic thanks to drivers being more

distracted and preoccupied than ever before. Think of the evolving riding environment and your attempts to master it as landing a plane on an aircraft carrier in rough seas, with a drunken mate at the helm. It’s constantly changing terrain, and must be handled while we’re still trying to master the basics even though we’ve been dealing with them for decades.

And while I feel there may be few big downhill twisty bits in Antarctica, there is the ice, snow and Killer Whales (that like to knock touring riders off their mounts by banging on the bottom of ice floes, knocking the unwary tourists into the drink and then consume them) that no doubt cause a degree of tension when riding there. There’s always. . . something.

oN thE maRk Continued from Page 8 Speaking of April weather, the warmth will herald the return of thunderstorms, a force best left alone lest you discover the true power of a ride on the lightning. I hope our West Coast friends find April kinder to their riding than the rest of their winter has been. The massive amounts of snow on their heights, while good for skiing and the water supply, may leave some of their passes…impassable for a while. Come April, a section of the Pacific Coast

Highway below Carmel may still be closed because of a broken bridge.

April will be a month of anticipation, for it will be just a month before we reunite with Backroads friends in West Virginia for the Spring Break Rally.

I’ve missed the last couple gatherings and I’m anxious to combine great food and great friends with great riding. Like Chaucer’s characters, the Zephyrs of April will make me long to go on pilgrimages.

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In the heart of some of the best roads in the U.S including the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Plan your adventures with us as a pitstop.

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APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

BACKLASH Wild & Wonderful Hello Backroads My name is Paul Ciribassi and I subscribe to your magazine - love it! We met a few times in various motorcycle venues. I am the guy who tells you that Jim’s automotive on Rt.15 is my cousin. But the reason for my note is that I have done several trips to West Virginia and had some really good rides.

I am forwarding you some of my routes to see if they are any help to you.

Also a new GPX route every month for different areas around our region would be a nice addition to your magazine, what do ya think.

Paul ciribassi - Point Pleasant NJ Paul, Thanks for the routes. It’s always good to have options and see new ways of getting around such a wonderful riding area. As for GPX routes, we have a slew of them on our website for many different regions. Please check them out and hopefully they will inspire you to go on your own adventures: www.backroadsusa.com/gpsdownloads.html Brian and Shira, I hope you are doing well. I realize your time is valuable so I appreciate your indulgence.

Letters to the Editor I’ve only been to West Virginia once, and that was when I was flaming through on the Interstate system during an Iron Butt certificate ride. I’d like to go back at some point to actually enjoy the backroads throughout the state, particularly after reading your travel accounts. Could you recommend a “nice” non-Interstate route from the NY-NJ area that would at least get me into the state?

Once there I’m sure I can cobble together some scenic routes.

All the best, Brian R. Salisbury Never a bother …

Our February issue is a great go-to for this, but heading south we usually stick west of the Susquehanna River and along the great roads heading up and over and then south towards the Mason-Dixon Line.

Rte 26 south into Maryland along Oldtown Orleans Road is worth the ride!

Jamaican Us Crazy!

Relaxing by the pool in Ocho Rios, Jamaica, but I couldn’t leave behind my Backroads magazine. Reading about West Virginia (loved it).

Jose cerqueira

Good day!

My name is Steve Abramson, and I have been a street/roadracing/some dirt motorcyclist for over 40 years, and have been friends with Kevin Gray and Peter from Circle Cycle in Ridgefield, NJ for many decades.

Kevin has been a great help to me over the years, and I am blessed to have him as an old friend. I stopped in to see him yesterday to pick up a couple of small items and told him about an upcoming trip in early March. It is my first serious ADVenture experience on 2 wheels; I am going with two other riding partners for a 6 day self guided off road tour through remote areas of Ecuador put together by Court and Sylvain of Freedom Bike Rentals. I’ve taken advantage of any and all networking opportunities over the last 2 months while preparing for the trip to try and do a bit of brain-picking from people who have either actually done off road in Ecuador or at least a similar type of trip, and Kevin immediately mentioned the two of you as folks who might be willing to offer some thoughts on prep/gear etc. I’ve been familiar with your excellent publication for many years, and figure one or both of you might have some tidbits to offer.

Although we are self-guided for the trip, using the GPS units that will be provided by Freedom Bike Rentals, we are at least in hostel/hotel accommodations at night, so we are not packing for camping, although we will be prepared for a very wide range of riding conditions,

BACKROADS • APRIL 2017 from tropical rainforest through very high altitude mountain passes. And, certainly for rain! For the most part, we are completely prepared with gear, from base to outer layers as well as secondary operational and emergency gear. If there’s anything you might think to offer in terms of hints or advise, it would be truly appreciated. Thanks so much, and be safe out on the road.

Steve abramson Steve, We were just saying that we need to get by Circle… it has been too long and Kevin and Pete are the best!

Court and Sylvain are also great to work with and know their adopted country well. Here is a link to the edition that featured our Ecuadorian tour: issuu.com/backroadsmagazine/docs/may2015web Ecuador has a lot to offer and has some easy familiarities too - they use American $ and are in the same time zone as NYC. You must try the local Cuy when down there; just don’t stare at it - just eat it - tastes like rabbit. Trust us... it is fantastic.

Spring Break 2017 Hey Backroads, Six of us signed up for the Spring Break Ride through West Virginia, which includes myself and Gary Angiuli.

Is there any other registration necessary other than booking the hotel rooms? tony Pepenella Nope. Never a charge at Backroads rallies.

We are a very easy-going sort of group. Looking forward to it and expect some really great roads, some fantastic locations and some new friends!

FDNY Dream Bike Dear Backroads, Thank you so much for the Dream Bike articles. That bike is very special to me and holds lots of happy and sad memories. I only wish Steve had lived long enough to see it completely finished. You were so instrumental in getting

Page 11 it to its special place where it is today. He is smiling down on it, for sure.

In Appreciation, carol lee Hi Shira, My time to ride this upcoming season is tight. Trying to use vacation time wisely. I know any day is a good day to ride however, based on you and Brian’s experience, do you prefer to ride on Friday or Saturday regarding traffic and crowds?

Thanks, george kuhn For us it depends where we are going. Obviously we think earlier is better – but Saturday mornings are usually lighter as there is no Rush Hour to deal with.

On the Friday side, once everyone is at work, the roads – at least here in the Skylands of NJ - are virtually free of traffic, except for some of the bigger roads - and who is riding along them?

So our official answer is get out on Friday – no matter what, you are out on your journey a full day earlier, which to us is always a good thing.

Terrific Tenerife Shira and Brian, We are so excited as we just received our latest copy of Backroads and there was the Edelweiss Tenerife Tour; We just got back from that trip and were so happy to see it published.

We had the best time, just like you said, the riding was much more difficult than they said it would be. It was beautiful and very exciting. I think I want to spend my last days on La Gomera. Wish we knew you were doing that trip we would have joined you. Peter was the best guide ever. We truly adored him and his excitement with our joy at seeing all the wondrous sights.

Paul and connie Zanini Continued on Page 12

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IN DU STRY INFOBITES VISIT

AEROSTICH IS COMING EAST! AEROSTICH IN NEW JERSEY MARCH 29TH – APRIL 1ST

Aerostich, makers of the venerable Roadcrafter suits and other great riding gear, will be setting up in the Garden State directly across the river from the Big Apple, with all of the latest riding gear and equipment, for a special FourDay Pop-Up event in Edgewater, NJ. Join Aerostich factory fitting experts and see, try on and feel all of the latest Aerostich riding gear, including the all-new Cousin Jeremy Waxed Cotton 2-piece suit and the lightweight, multi-purpose 1-piece Useful Suit.

Check out the latest R-3 (Roadcrafter 3) one piece suit, the Roadcrafter City and Tactical Suits, Women’s sized Roadcrafters, Utility Riding Pants, Darien’s, Falstaff’s and more.

Come in anytime (or by appointment) and experience the superior comfort and fit of Aerostich’s 60+ available and true-fit graded suits, jackets and pants (not common S, M, L, XL, etc sizes...). Hundreds of new garments in most colors are on display and ready to try on. A large selection of Aerostich Messenger Bags, Elkskin and Deerskin Gloves, Tank Panniers, Saddle Bags, Fleece Layers and Electric Liners will be available.

BacklaSh Continued from Page 11 Dear Shira, Thanks so much for the complementary copies of Backroads you sent to us and my brother Brian in NJ. We all enjoyed reading your article! Hopefully, it will make my brother Brian envious enough of us to finally buy himself another sled after so many years of down time.

On another note, Kimberly and I just confirmed our 2017 moto-adventure with our friends at Adriatic Moto Tours. And apparently, Kimberly has talked Olli and Lotta to join us on an October 2017, seven-day scamper around the Mediterranean islands of Sardinia and Corsica! I’m very excited about riding once again with the Finnish couple. We had fun riding with them in Tenerife,

APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

News from the Inside Advance scheduled fitting appointments are available all days, or come in anytime. To arrange an apointment please contact Lynn at lwisneski@aerostich.com or call (218) 341-0416.

Open from 9am to 7pm Wednesday – Saturday, March 29th- April 1st, at 493 River Road, Edgewater, NJ 07020 in the Edgewater Commons Mall.

(GPS Coordinates 40.811054, -73.982721). Swap riding stories with us and other area riders and pick up some FREE Aerostich swag too. More info at www.aerostich.com/NJ17

HUDSON VALLEY MOTORCYCLES EXPANDS ITS AWARD WINNING SERVICE DEPARTMENT Hudson Valley Motorcycles is thrilled to announce the growth and expansion of its premier service department with the addition of European Cycle Services to the dealership. Since 1966, Hudson Valley Motorcycles (HVMC) has served Westchester County, New York and the surrounding communities of the metropolitan New York City region with exceptional service, amazing motorcycles, and carefully selected parts and accessories for all enthusiasts.

Over recent years, with the addition of Ducati motorcycles to the existing Kawasaki and Suzuki brands, service work and sales growth has been as well as with you, Brian and everyone else on that tour. Maybe we’ll see you guys once again on the road!

Yours in motorcycling, mark and kimberly Kimberly and Mark, You are most welcome and yes, get your brother back on a bike – it keeps one young or at least young at heart.

Matej and the folks at Adriatic Moto Tours are wonderful hosts and guides.

I’m sure you will enjoy their tour. Enjoy and hopefully we’ll see you on the road again.

BACKROADS • APRIL 2017 tremendous. HVMC has collaborated with European Cycle Services (ECS) on a wide range of projects and the two companies have enjoyed a close working relationship. By bringing the experienced technical staff of ECS into HVMC, the combined companies can offer unparalleled customer service and support for a wide range of European and Japanese motorcycles and off-road vehicles.

European Cycle Services has a well-deserved reputation for providing top quality service to customers with mostly European and some Japanese brand motorcycles. Established in 2007 in Middletown New York, by Stephen Saucier, ECS is known for outstanding Ducati performance upgrades and general service work, as well as specialized vintage restorations of older Ducati and European machines. Many customers rely on ECS for race bike builds and repairs, as well as engine building and upgrades. The vast knowledge of Ducati and European bikes that brought accolades to ECS will be carried over to HVMC - only the location and the name above the door is changing!

Beginning March 15, 2017 Hudson Valley Motorcycles welcomes Stephen Saucier (ECS President) as Service Manager for HVMC. Additionally, ECS technicians Sean and Frank will join the HVMC service department, bringing vast experience and technical expertise to HVMC customers. The added staff will help reduce waiting time for service work at HVMC and allow for specialty service not previously offered such as vintage Ducati restorations. The new HVMC service department will be able to provide quicker service, as well as continued pick-up and delivery options for customers.

Page 13 through Sunday. We have obtained indoor convention space, and have hotel accommodations available. We will teach onrange rider training ‘Adventure Essentials’ and ‘Dirt Bike Essentials’, and we’ve added the advanced level ‘BDR Essentials’ class. This will support riders in successfully completing the Colorado Backcountry Discovery Route teaching steep ascents and descents, hair pin turns, water crossings, and rocky terrain skills.”

Last year’s Rally was a great success with several participants traveling over 1800 miles to attend. “I knew the ladies would have a blast, but I was most surprised by how much the gentlemen enjoyed themselves,” said Jacques. “They were thrilled to see their spouses and partners quickly gain confidence and skill, which translates to more opportunities to enjoy riding together and also strengthens the industry.”

Classroom Sessions are open to all attendees, with topics including trailside maintenance, trailside first aid, intro to GPS navigation, fitness and training for off-road riding, truck & trailer motorcycle loading and unloading, flat tire repair, how to pick up a bike, moto-camping and travel photography.

Immediately following the Rally there will be a “First Ever” All-ladies Colorado Backcountry Discovery (COBDR) Tour led by Jacques and fellow adventure rider Alisa Clickenger. Log onto www.advwoman.com/rally/ for more information.

2ND ANNUAL ADV WOMAN RALLY • JULY 20-23, 2017 Dates are announced for the second annual adventure rally organized for women and families to be held at the Flying Heels Rodeo Arena in Granby, Colorado.

The event will include a variety of self-guided rides, Geocache scavenger hunt, classroom training sessions as well as on-range adventure and dirt bike rider training. All instructors are women! Men are welcome too— this is a female and family friendly rally.

“We are building on last year’s success with several key changes,” said Pat Jacques, Rally Director. “BMW Off Road instructor Caroline Stevenson has joined the teaching staff, plus the rally is expanded to four days, Thursday

AMA HAZEL KOLB BRIGHTER IMAGE AWARDED TO BDR Backcountry Discovery Routes, recipient of the 2017 AMA Hazel Kolb Brighter Image Award, is a nonprofit organization whose mission is to establish and preserve off-highway routes for dual-sport and adventure motorcycle travel. In so doing, BDR has generated significant positive publicity for motorcycling, honoring the award’s namesake, Hall of Famer Hazel Kolb.

The organization works with the U.S. Forest Service, land managers and other public land agencies to keep trails and remote roads open for motorcycling through a combination of education, advocacy and the promotion of responsible motorcycle travel.

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APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

“The BDR team, including Director of Operations Inna Thorn and Director of Route Development Rob Watt, is honored to receive the Hazel Kolb Brighter Image Award,” said Paul Guillien, president of Backcountry Discovery Routes. “We know the AMA does most of the heavy lifting to protect the interest of us motorcyclists, so we’re over the moon to be recognized by them for doing our small part to show the brighter side of motorcycling. We are humbled by the success our small nonprofit organization has achieved over the last few years pursuing its mission to create and preserve off-highway riding opportunities for dual-sport and adventure motorcycles.”

RUSSIAN STAR WARS MACHINE? Have you ever dreamed of flying with the same simplicity as riding a bike – like a Storm trooper on Endor?

Hoversurf’s SCORPION platform is a single-seat aircraft that rediscovers the art of flying and hovering enabling a hi-tech quadcopter-based solution. It’s a unique electricpowered vessel combining a motorcycle seat with quadcopter drone technology bringing speed agility and stability of flight to the hands of amateur and professional navigators. For the moment, SCORPION platform is increasingly seen as an extreme sports instrument, yet the vessel’s transportation potential remains evident.

The Future is closer than it seems! Does George Lucas know about this?

AUSSIE RESEARCHER FINDS OTHER DRIVERS TO BLAME FOR MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENTS - REST OF WORLD GOES “DUH!” An Australian study states “failure of other drivers to give way” as the most common factor in motorcycle accidents. Research by Monash University in Melbourne has found that human error was the primary contributing

factor for 94% of bike accidents. “Whilst with single-bike crashes, rider error and loss of control were found to be the most common causes, for incidents involving more than one vehicle, it was found that ‘motorcycle crashes occurring in lighter traffic more likely involved an error by another driver, including such things as failure to give way’.”

The motorcycle crash research studied over 230 accidents between January 2012 and August 2014, with nurses at the hospitals and crash scene investigators aiding with the compilation of the data.

“Whilst car drivers were responsible for the majority of accidents in lessdense traffic, it was the motorcyclist to be more likely at fault for most ‘urban’ crashes and collisions however,” Trevor Allen of the Monash University Research Centre told The Herald Sun newspaper, adding that this was most likely due to the greater frequency of danger; “Higher traffic density leads to more hazards and a higher level of difficulty for riders to move safely in and among traffic, compared with other vehicles.”

The research also found that the older the rider, the less likely it was that the rider was primarily to blame for the accident. Experience counts!

GREAT RIDES IN THE ALLEGHENY NATIONAL FOREST Looking to explore the twisties and mountain roads of the Allegheny National Forest?

Point your browser to VisitANF.com for the new Motorcycle Road Trips Brochure, featuring 7 color coded rides through the region from PA I-80 to NY I-86, along secondary scenic roads. It gives attractions and things to see and do along the way. You can order it from 800-473-9370 or get it online.

BACKROADS • APRIL 2017

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Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERI OU S AMERIC A lEtchwoRth VillagE thE daRk SidE of US mEdical hiStoRy aloNg thE hUdSoN Over the years we have brought you to some pretty creepy places and many a bit of a journey from what we consider our own backyard.

But if you are familiar with Harriman State Park, just north of New York City and west of the river, we have a place on this month’s stop along the backroads of Mysterious America that you might have seen, but never knew the truth.

I’m here to tell you of the dark past at Letchworth Village.

Right off the Palisades Interstate Park, at exit 14 where we have sent countless Rip & Rides into and through Harriman State Park, you will find the town of Theills.

Heading east from the Parkway you will immediately ride past some old stately looking buildings – in somewhat of major disrepair. It might look like this place was once beautiful, peaceful and happy.

It was not.

Back during the Revolutionary War the region was called Haverstraw Forge and Mad Anthony Wayne used the region to keep a watch on Stony Point and the Hudson River. In the 1850s the hamlet sprung up here became Theills Corner then just Theills.

It wasn’t all bad in this town, in fact it was a pretty little community.

So pretty it gave folks an idea….

Back at the beginning of the last century the thought came about that this peaceful area would be the perfect spot for a rather large social experiment.

A Utopian village would be created for the specific reason of treating the mentally ill and those that regular society had spurned. As it was worded in the day “the segregation of the epileptic and feeble-minded.”

The new village was named for William Pryor Letchworth, a key player in its creation, and a noted humanitarian of the time. It would be sprawling,

with over 130 buildings and nearly 2,000 acres in size.

Caring for nearly 2,000 patients they said it would have “an acre for every patient.”

Unlike some of the other facilities we have brought you to – such as the Trans Allegheny Lunatic Ayslum – Letchworth Village really tried to give the institution a homey and comfortable feel to it.

Page 16 And, for a number of years, it did just that.

But, like every other attempt of those days, Letchworth Village soon became overcrowded and pushed beyond its means. Funding dried up and staff was cut. To make matters worse most of the new patients were mostly children. Lost boys and girls who had no one and were at the mercy of fate. Many of the children that ended up at Letchworth simply disappeared into the system.

This is when things took that dark turn….

There are a number of medical advancements that have happened over the last 100 years but to get to where these new medicines and procedures would be proven and become accepted there had to be some testing done.

Today we have many who get upset with the testing done on animals. Here in Letchworth village the testing was done on the children.

Worse, back in those days there wasn’t even much questioning on this practice and Letchworth was fairly straight forward with what they were up to and about its intention to use the children as guinea pigs for new medicines and clinical trials.

These children were never asked permission and never gave any. They had

APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

no advocate. No one to say, “No F’n way.” No voice or protectors.

Just awful, isn’t it?

Now let me tell you just what was the most famous disease they were working on, and successfully too.

Polio - a scourge of young people just 75 years ago. An experimental polio vaccine was successfully tested on an eight-year-old boy in 1950. Testing continued on more children, and the success of the vaccine at Letchworth the vaccine that we still use today - allowed Letchworth Village to stay open all the way until 1966.

I think of this horrid abuse of children’s rights as just a short step away from some of the NAZI medical abuses of World War II. Social change in the United States and ground breaking reporting done at the time – much from a young upstart journalist named Geraldo Rivera - helped close this and a few other abusive institutions.

Watch his shocking (really!) report here: www.youtube.com/watch?v=2h6QX-7Ew2y This is just what we know of the abuses that happened along this now peaceful region of the Hudson. But, to put things in perspective, just a short ride away, off Call Hollow Road, is a hidden away cemetery that holds nearly 1,000 shallow graves – all childlike in size. There are no names, simply numbers. See this and think of what you just read. Just an hour or so ride from the greatest city in the world this dark evil not only lived, but thrived.

Today Letchworth Village is slowly being taken over

by Mother Nature. The buildings are in ruins and are rotting away and almost all are official closed and “Off Limits.” Yet kids and intrepid reporters (or their slender friends) can still easily make their way inside.

Property values being what they are in this region today I would not be surprised to see the old hospital be converted into a housing complex or golf course.

Yet, the disturbing history of Letchworth Village should remain and all these children should not be forgotten on the backroads of Mysterious America.

O’Life Out!

BACKROADS • APRIL 2017

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Hannum’s Harley-Davidson Presents

G REAT A LL AMERICAN DINE R RUN thE fiShiN’ Pig 5169 FARMVILLE ROAD, FARMVILLE, VA 23901 434-223-3287 • WWW.FISHINPIG.COM BREAKFAST ON SUNDAYS 8-11:30AM • LUNCH/DINNER 11AM-11PM Along the backroads of the Piedmont and Prince Edward County regions of Virginia you will come across the town of Farmville.

More that once this small part of the Commonwealth became the focus of national attention. General Lee brought his troops this way at the end of the Civil War, just before his surrender and the issue of school segregation and civil right came to a boil in this region in the late 1950s.

All these years later, riding through this part of the nation, the struggles of the past seem far away, especially around meal time when you roll into the parking lot of this month’s Great All American Diner Run - The Fishin’ Pig. To appreciate the The Fishin’ Pig you must know a little of the back story on how it came about. So we’ll steal a bit from their history: Founded by Matt Hurley, Nash Osborn, Shorty Osborn, and Jim Osborn, The Fishin’ Pig is a southern culinary combination that will delight all the senses.

It all started in Memphis, TN, arguably the BBQ Capital of the World, where Matt Hurley was honing his skills at contests and cook-offs. He then made the move to Virginia, opening Mulligan’s Sport’s Grille in

tasty places to take your bike

Farmville. Missing the smell of a smoker, Matt founded Grady’s BBQ, named after his dad, in 2006. While he was bringing his Memphis-style expertise to the small town of Farmville, Shorty’s passion for catchin’ and eatin’ fish led to the creation of Shorty’s Famous Seafood & Chicken Breading and the popular phrase “Catch n’ Release in the Grease”. As luck would have it, Nash and Jim joined the Mulligan’s family as bartenders, introducing the Fish to the Pig. The relationship went swim-

mingly and in October 2012 they decided to go whole hog and combine the two companies to make The Fishin’ Pig. These days they offer the finest from land and sea: savory, smoked meats and flavorful, fresh seafood.

We discovered The Fishin’ Pig on a recent jaunt through the south and the timing could not be better, as we had been on the road for hours and more than just a bit hungry.

The Fishin’ Pig is far larger inside than it looks. Like Dr. Who’s Tardis we walked in the door and then could keep on walking.

The staff was friendly and even more so when they learned we were traveling from up north. The décor is a great combination of funky roadside tavern and yet retains a clean comfortability that makes you feel instantly welcome.

The menu for lunch had plenty to offer with Better Than Bang Bang

Rip & Ride • The Fishin’ Pig 5169 Farmville Road, Farmville, VA 23901 • 434-223-3287 • www.fishinpig.com Breakfast on Sundays 8-11:30am • Lunch/Dinner 11am-11pm • www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/okvs1o • Approx. 120 Miles

START: MORTON’S BMW 5099A JEFFERSON DAVIS HWY, FREDERICKSBURG, VA 22408

RTE. 208 SOUTH RIGHT AT POST OAK – SR 606 RIGHT AT STUBS BRIDGE – SR 612 LEFT AT DAYS BRIDGE LEFT US 522 RIGHT AT CHOPPING ROAD

RIGHT AT US 208 STRAIGHT AT KENTS STORE WAY STRAIGHT AT CEDAR LANE CR 659 LEFT AT VA 6 RIGHT AT COLUMBIA RD RIGHT AT SR 610 LEFT AT US 15 SOUTH TO FISHIN’ PIG ON LEFT

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Shrimp, Chicken Toes (which is hand breaded, never frozen chicken fried in Shorty’s own breading), a super Rollie’s Roadhouse Chili and a superb sampler for appetizers.

Seven different taco selections offering fish, chicken, pork and beef brisket varieties. Shorty’s Famous Fish Tacos were aptly named – fantastic.

For the lighter salad sort of meal (Yes, sniff, we occasionally go there) the Fishin’ Pig have their own renditions of Caesar, spinach and garden greenery.

When we rolled up to the restaurant the big smokers took up one side of the lot, so you know they are very serious when it comes to this. From Grady’s Smoke Shack you will have a hard time choosing from the pulled pork BBQ sandwich combos, racks of ribs, beef brisket or just go for it all and order a sampler. You can ever buy any of these by the pound and just eat all afternoon. But, remember, you probably will have to get back on the motorcycle to ride and you don’t want to be to weighted and slowed down, now do ya?

APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

All these can be followed with The Fishin’ Pig’s sides of jalapeno cornbread, collard green, mac-n-cheese, homemade slaw and other fixins’.

To tell you the truth it is all good, and we are pretty confident you will not ride away disappointed.

This region offers some superb riding and we thought we’d bring you there from the Fredericksburg, Virginia region south of the The Fishin’ Pig along some of the finer roads that Virginia has to offer. Enjoy!

BACKROADS • APRIL 2017

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Hanover Powersports Presents

B IG CITY GETAWAY

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind

VallEy foRgE NatioNal PaRk 1400 N OUTER LINE DRIVE, KING OF PRUSSIA, PA 19406 610-783-1099 • WWW.NPS.GOV/VAFO/INDEX.HTM Although he could have gone back to his home at Mount Vernon many times during the Revolutionary War, General George Washington stayed with his troops from the day of his appointment in 1775 until after the decisive battle at Yorktown in 1781.

This faithfulness to his troops was no more apparent than during the winter of 1777 into 1778 at Valley Forge.

Washington chose Valley Forge as the winter encampment for his 11,000 men (along with approximately 500 women and children) for a few reasons.

The lay of the land made Valley Forge a natural fortress and the army’s camp sat high on a plateau at the top of a series of hills that protected it. The soldiers lived in huts built on the plateau and continued training on the parade ground at its center. Secondly, Valley Forge was far enough away from the rich farmland north of Philadelphia to prevent the army from becoming a burden on the local population. Lastly, Valley Forge was close enough to the occupied capital of Philadelphia for the Continental Army to keep an eye on the British and prevent any surprise attacks on settlements in the countryside. As Washington explained, if the army was farther away, then “many of our friends would be exposed to all the miseries of the most insulting and wanton depredation.”

The lack of proper clothing was a significant problem. While Washington knew most of his men were fit for duty, he calculated that at least a third of

them had no shoes. Many did not have a decent coat to protect against the constant rain that plagued the camp.

Washington ordered his soldiers to build wooden huts for themselves, twelve by twelve feet each, and then search the countryside for straw to use as bedding. He hoped this would keep them warm since there were not enough blankets for everyone. Even worse, his quartermaster reported that he had just twenty-five barrels of flour and only a little salt pork to feed the entire army. As Washington explained in a letter to Henry Laurens, the President of the Continental Congress, unless something was done quickly, “this Army might dissolve.”

Although images of men freezing to death (1777-78 was an El Nino year) and Washington praying in the snow fill our history books, the truth is the Continental Army spent the long winter preparing for the upcoming battles of the next year.

Help with this came from an unexpected source, as Prussian military officer Baron von Steuben provided Washington’s men with countless drills on the use of bayonet, and most importantly, how to re-form lines quickly in the midst of battle. Washington also received help from his wife Martha, who arrived from Mount Vernon in February. She took over the management of his household, helped with his correspondence, and cheered him by entertaining guests and even staging plays.

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By spring, conditions had improved greatly and on June 19, the Continental Army—better trained and more determined than ever—marched out of Valley Forge. Washington, who proved his leadership, remained their commander. Together they headed for New Jersey where they would make a stand against the British army, on its way from Philadelphia to New York, at Monmouth Courthouse just 9 days later where the general rallied his troops and led them to a great victory for our side.

APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS These days you can learn more of this historic story as you ride along the scenic loop around Valley Forge National Historic Park.

Located just 20 miles out of Philadelphia this park is a must for lovers of American history and, following on our trail of General Washington, a stop we had to make.

The visitor center is expansive and extremely well thought out and the museum’s exhibit “Determined to Persevere” showcases the various artifacts and stories relating to Valley Forge.

The Park film “Valley Forge: A Winter Encampment” plays every 30 minutes throughout the day and is well worth the time.

Throughout the park itself you will find many places of historical significance. The Isaac Potts House, Washington Headquarters, should be on your list as should be the Muhlenberg Brigade Area; the site of a brigade encampment led by General Peter Muhlenberg. The area consists of nine log cabins, called huts, facing a gravel company street.

There is a reproduction of a regimental Bake Oven also located at the site.

When we traveled through they were constructing a redoubt – built to actual historical records.

Valley Forge National Historic Park contains many monuments within its boundaries. They include the markers at locations of specific brigades, statues of generals, and one of the few monuments to African America patriots on federal land. Most stunning is the Arch.

The United States National Memorial Arch was erected to commemorate the arrival of General George Washington and his Continental Army into Valley Forge.

It was designed by Paul Philippe Cret, based on the Triumphal Arch of Titus in Rome (A.D. 81), which marked the capture of Jerusalem by Emperor Titus in A.D. 70.

This Arch was dedicated on June 19, 1917.

At the top of the archway, on both the front and back, is a keystone adorned with a tiny figure of Athena carrying a shield. Filling the corners above the archways are reliefs of two angels -one blowing a trumpet and the other carrying a shield. The coffering on the inside is adorned with small rosettes. A bronze seal with inscription appears on each of the inner sides.

It was restored in 1996 with funds provided entirely by the Free Masons, of which Washington was a member.

You can easily spend a good part of the day here at Valley Gorge and we hope that you do. This park is a grand piece of American Revolutionary history and one not to be missed.

It is always good to start the day off with a hearty breakfast so this Rip & Ride (Page 44) to Valley Forge will start along the Delaware River in Belvidere, New Jersey at Thisilldous Eatery – one of the best breakfasts in the region. Say hi to Mike and the crew and tell them Backroads sent you.

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Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents

WE’RE OUTTA HER E JEaN BoNNEt taVERN 6048 LINCOLN HIGHWAY, BEDFORD, PA 15522 814-623-2250 • WWW.JEANBONNETTAVERN.COM A few months back we brought you an interesting and historic inn in Massachusetts’ Berkshires that saw the planning and birth of our nation’s first insurrection – Shay’s Rebellion. This brushfire, although doomed, did bring about our nation’s Constitution and remains a big part of our history.

But, there was another such uprising nearly a decade later in western Pennsylvania – the Whiskey Rebellion.

The difference here was, where Shay’s Rebellion brought General Washington out of his retirement and back into public life, the Whiskey Rebellion got him involved personally.

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads In the town of Bedford, Pennsylvania, where Route 30, The Lincoln Highway, intersects with Interstate 70, you will find the Jean Bonnet Tavern.

We dare say that when the foundation was built for the tavern the surrounding countryside looked a little less busy, but still it was always a crossroads and they have been taking care of travelers since 1762.

Reading about the long history at the Jean Bonnet: ‘The earliest official record of the property is noted in a transfer of title of 690 acres from an agent of the William Penn family to Hans Ireland, a land speculator. It was then transferred in 1762 to Robert Callender, an Indian trader.

Callender was also a commissary for troop supplies, and later, a scout for General George Washington. This building, with its native stone walls, massive fireplaces, and chestnut beams, was built during Callender’s ownership.’

Jean Bonnet, and his wife, purchased the property in 1779. In October 1780, Bonnet was issued a license, allowing that ‘Petitioner lives at the Fork of roads leading to Fort Pitt and the Glades with everything necessary for keeping Public House…’

Page 22 Things were easier back then.

In mid-1794, Pennsylvania farmers were angry about the federal tax on whiskey. They gathered here at the Jean Bonnet, even raising a liberty pole in protest. Protest grew into a movement, and then open rebellion.

The Whiskey Rebellion was eventually ended when President George Washington himself, along with a few thousand troops, rode to western Pennsylvania and ended the rebellion without one shot fired or any blood spilled.

Just the sight of Washington made the farmers reconsider. President Washington is the only standing Commander-in-Chief to lead troops into battle.

Today you can, not only, have a most excellent meal at this tavern where American history was made, but you can spend the night as well.

The tavern has both indoor and outdoor seating as well as a historic and friendly rustic feel to it. We found the wait staff to be very friendly and happy to talk about the tavern.

The menu had a number of standards and a large number of items that were unique to us. Ap-

APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS petizers included creamy shrimp & crab dip and Bacon Wrapped Scallops.

While there we had the crab & corn chowder – a magical thick combination of crab, sweet corn, bacon & potatoes. It could have been a meal by itself.

We also had one of the monthly specials – a blueberry shrimp salad that consisted of sautéed shrimp, fresh blueberries, candied pecans & bleu cheese crumbles served on a bed of mixed greens with a citrus vinaigrette dressing.

It was full of happy flavors and very refreshing on a warm August day.

Maybe you will get to the tavern towards day’s end and some of the entrees looked very good as well. Filet Mignon Oscar topped with a special crab recipe layered with fresh asparagus spears and Béarnaise sauce. We heard the Tavern Crab Cakes were most excellent as well.

Dessert seemed a bit different too – Oatmeal Pie? We never heard of it either but they also have peanut butter pie and a triple layered carrot cake.

Yikes!

With all this food going on you would wonder how the Jean Bonnet ended up a We’re Outta Here! and not a GAADR? Well….

Upstairs four beautifully appointed bedrooms can be found. Each one looking about as comfortable as they could and the Jean Bonnet tavern would make an excellent place to overnight or even make a base camp for a few day’s riding and touring in this part of the Keystone State. Each has their own private bathroom and a hearty breakfast comes with each room.

But, wait it gets better…Ghosts anyone?

JOIN THE STORY…RIDE URAL With a sidecar and trunk you’ll have enough room for all your favorite gear (or best friend) during your next ride, all year long.

Wheel Sport Center Inc. 399 HUGUeNOT ST • NeW ROCHeLLe, Ny

914.636.7235 • WheelSportCenter.net

BACKROADS • APRIL 2017 Taverns and Inns in the 18th century were often used as a local court facility. People were tried in front of a jury and judge, and if convicted of a capitol crime, were hung on the premises, either outside or actually inside the building. There were two known hangings done inside the Jean Bonnet Tavern.

People executed, killed or murdered within or near a building sometimes like to stay in the place of their demise. In 1958, when workers were digging up the original basement during renovation, the workmen uncovered a skeleton with a broken neck, wearing what was left of his clothes, bit of button and metal, worn by men in the 1700s.

These remains of a gentleman suggest that he was executed by hanging for some crime. Another body was discovered during the 1980s, when the floor was repaired. Ruh ro!

So here at the Jean Bonnet Tavern you get a most excellent combinationdeep American history, superb food and a comfortable bar room, a wonderfully charming room for the night and a couple of ghosts to share it with as well.

Mix that all together with the superb Pennsylvanian countryside and you can see why we could not wait to share the Jean Bonnet Tavern!

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APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

laSt lickS homEmadE icE cREam 134 RIDGEDALE AVE, EAST HANOVER, NJ 07936 • 973-585-7988 OPEN YEAR ROUND NOON TO 9PM It had been raining for the last, oh I don’t know, year and we were definitely getting cabin fever. While we were definitely taking care of a ton of housekeeping around Backroads Central, we needed to get out for some story fodder. I had seen a listing for a special exhibit at the Morris Museum in Morristown, NJ so off we went in search of culture.

Along the way, we had to make a stop for Dr. O’Life’s exploration into hidden history and, coincidentally it brought us into East Hanover. Being around the corner, we made a stop to visit Vinnie and crew at East Hanover Powersports to get a fix of other people’s motorcycles and shoot the breeze.

We were just about to head back north when I spied, with my little eyes, a beacon in the middle of winter – a homemade ice cream sign. Even better, right underneath it was the neon ‘OPEN’ sign.

Imagine that, in the middle of the winter, in the middle of the week, in the middle of the day some ice cream. Hallelujah!

Last Licks has been serving up ice cream made in-house for the last several years. Owner Dan Saporito, along with his daughters, stand behind the counter to welcome you with friendly smiles and offerings of tastings – apparently as many as you’d like as they go through thousands of tasting spoons a year. Dan is the man behind the mixing of the ice cream, of which there are at least 30 rotating and seasonal flavors. Along with the dairy side, they offer Italian ice, soft serve and all the usual ice cream parlor concoctions.

Last Licks may be off the beaten track, sandwiched between Route 10 and Gate of Heaven Cemetery, but the red and white building and sign, along with their happy cow, will lure you up the long and winding ramp and into the friendly confines.

You might notice from their logo that baseball plays a role here. The cup sizes are single, double, triple and home run and there are baseball photographs lining the walls. Yes, they are all Yankees, but I won’t hold that against them, as their ice cream more than makes up for it.

BACKROADS • APRIL 2017

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Inside you’ll find more red and white, with tables and counters to enjoy your sweetness after ordering. As I said, with so many creative and interesting flavor combinations, you would do best to take a couple of tastings before making your final decision. I know I had at least a half dozen before deciding.

Seems their Graham Slam – vanilla-based with graham and honeycomb mixed in – is at the top of their favorite’s list. On the board today were their regulars such as Apple Dapple, Pistachio, Espresso Chocolate Chunk and Red Velvet Oreo as well as seasonal flavors of Egg Nog, Maple Bacon and Holiday Mint.

I finally settled on a double cup holding Peanut Butter Graham and Banana Crème Pie while Brian went for a scoop each of Devil Dog and Pumpkin Oreo. They were good size servings and we took a seat at one of the tables

to savor and chat with Jenna, one of Dan’s daughters. The taste explosion in my mouth from the combination of flavors was incredible. Many times you’ll see a flavor and, when you actually taste it, it is woefully lacking. That is not happening at Last Licks. The Banana Crème Pie would have made Pepe the Monkey scream with pleasure and the Peanut Butter Graham was equally as full-bodied. Brian’s Pumpkin Oreo was a bit more savory than sweet, but delicious all the same. The consistency was tipping the scale more towards soft than hard ice cream and certainly satisfied that mid-winter craving.

Their Italian Ice selection includes your lemon, cherry and chocolate along with coconut, mango and sour apple, to name a few. Should you be watching your sugar intake, they have fat and sugar-free yogurt. If you want to make a magnificent sundae, your toppings include everything from brownie pieces to gummy bears to marshmallows.

If you are heading to Last Licks on a beautiful summer evening, you can enjoy your dessert on the outside porch. I’ll give you a decent jaunt (56 miles) from the Chatterbox Drive-In in Augusta, NJ. On Thursday evenings from May to October they host a bike night; head over to see the machinery and then take a spin for a scoop or two at Last Licks. Rip & Ride on Page 44.

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APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

lthough we do enjoy motorcycle journeys to the sea, we have always found the summer crowds, costs and congestion to be not at all motorcycle-friendly to us. That said, when the pesky hot, humid weather that had been plaguing the northeast through the end of the summer was cleared out by a more civilized cool front we thought a mid-week spin up to Cape Cod (said with our best Kennedy accent) would be in order.

early on a Tuesday morning we packed the two BMWs for a few days on the road and, after loading a bunch of food for Spenser T Cat & crew, sped off east.

In typical Backroads fashion we rode over the Bear Mountain Bridge and then along the windy Route 6 heading from the bridge, which we had all to ourselves this empty morning, which in itself is a rare occurrence.

Heading northeast from the circle we stayed on the smaller roads through Putnam County, passing by the historic sign dedicated to Sybil Ludington the young woman who should be as famous as Paul Revere, but sadly is not. On April 26, 1777, at just 16 years, she rode her horse Star to alert militia forces to the approach of the British regular forces. The nearby town of Carmel has a stunning statue of her and is worth the side trip.

We piloted the Beemers into Connecticut finding some soup & sandwiches at the Cornwall General Store, which has become our goto lunch stop while meandering this part of the Nutmeg State. We then crossed over into Massachusetts and along Route 57, which was new to us and is now a keeper. you have to love a road that has a sign

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Page 27 across the entire piece of twisty and hilly pavement the state feels the need to put as a warning of said twisty and hilly pavement.

By late afternoon we rode through Springfield, birthplace of the Indian Motorcycle, and then onto Southbridge and the eclectic Vienna Restaurant & Historic Inn. The Vienna has a number of excellent rooms and we took the Sigmund Freund Suite that was as comfy as they come, full of period appointments and Sigmund sprinkled around it and had me just a bit psychoanalytic about my riding this day. The room made us feel we had stepped back one hundred years – but with WiFi. The room came with a greeting beverage and hors d’oeuvre appetizer (scallops & spaetzle), which only made us look forward

to the evening’s meal of duck and Jäger schnitzel, which was delicious as well.

Coffee and dessert out in the beer garden, with the warming glow of the fire taking off the slight mid-September night’s chill, made for a great way to end the first day out.

The Vienna Historic Inn was a We’re Outta Here! just waiting to happen (See March 2017).

Breakfast of homemade waffles with crème fraiche and strawberries started off the next morning and loading up the bikes we made the short, cross town, ride to the American Optical Building.

It was here in Southbridge that eye glasses first became a reality for the common man and by the mid-1930s American Optical plants covered 17½ acres of floor space in 36 connected structures in the town. It was a massive enterprise and a huge employer for the region.

American Optical was the oldest optical company in the U.S and one of the era’s grandest stories of industrial success. They owned and controlled many patents. Until just recently they were one of the largest optical manufacturing companies in the world.

In 1961 they created the first working optical “laser” - thus paving the way for Doctor Evil and his ilk.

The big main building is now a hotel and conference center, but there is a small museum a few blocks away. We stopped by for that digital moment and were quickly, but politely, shooed away by the police, whose headquarters is directly across the street.

Okay, I could see that one.

Our journey continued towards the Cape, endeavoring in the best way to avoid any bigger or more congested byways as you get closer to Boston.

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I did have one other little side trip to the town of Webster.

Now, when you think Webster you might think small, funny, little TV show black kid. But, although this town might share Webster’s name, the lake that it sits upon is something much, much bigger.

In fact Lake Chargoggagoggmanchauggagoggchaubunagungamaugg has the honor of being the largest geographical place name in the United States and one of the largest on the planet.

Try saying it fast - Lake Chargoggagoggmanchauggagoggchaubunagungamaugg …Try saying it at all!

The humorous translation is: “You fish on your side, I’ll fish on my side, and nobody fish in the middle” You can call it by the shorter version – that’s just Lake Chaubunagungamaug. Easy right?

We were making fairly good time along the smaller backroads of Massachusetts, occasionally getting snagged in larger town traffic when we needed to get through, rather than around. In West Bridgewater I spotted a large motorcycle shop.

I always notice bike shops. Don’t we all notice bike shops?

But when I saw the name on the sign I radioed Shira to pull into the lot and we made a stop at Bettencourt’s Honda-Suzuki.

The Bettencourt name is synonymous with AMA racing, starting with Dick Bettencourt and following with his four children (John, David, Mark and Carol) while operating the family business, and all of the children raced at one time or another. David won multiple titles and awards, including the 1973 Associated Racers of New England 125cc Expert MX Championship,

APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

the 1975 NESC Sportsman of the Year Award, the 1981 New England Flat Track Association 250 Pro Championship and the Open Pro Championship. Carol raced a Honda MR175 in the women’s class.

John, who I remember watching at Daytona, won the 1978 AMA Superbike National race at Loudon, New Hampshire aboard a Suzuki GS750, and the 1985 race at Lexington, Ohio on a Honda VF750. Sadly, John perished in an automobile accident in 1987.

This day we walked around Bettencourt’s showrooms and into the back where a number of classic Honda’s hung from the rafters and the VFR Interceptor that saw time at the Daytona 200 was proudly displayed.

What a great shop to happen upon and the Bettencourt sticker is now proudly at Monkey with a Gun!

To the Cape You do not need a GPS, map or sign to let you know when you are riding onto Cape Cod. You can smell it. You can feel it. And, you can see it.

Things immediately take on a more nautical Cape Cod ambience.

We planned well for the post Labor Day traffic and, although still crowded in spots, things moved along fairly well as we headed around the arm that is this Cape. The geologic history of Cape Cod mostly involves the advance and retreat of the last continental ice sheet (named the Laurentide after the Laurentian region of Canada where it first formed) and the rise in sea level

BACKROADS • APRIL 2017 that followed the retreat of the Ice Age. The entire cape is made of glacial moraine and sand and the geography here changes with the sea, storms and time; although man tries their best not to let it change too much.

Along the main Route 6 (the same Route 6 that crosses the NY/NY/PA region) you will find salt ponds, and tidal streams and, if you are Shira, you will find Hallet’s Home Made Ice Cream!

They have been making and serving ice cream here since 1889, possibly making it one of the oldest ice cream parlors Shira has yet found, but we’ll have to wait for Hallet’s to pop up in the pages of The Inside Scoop somewhere down the road to find out. I will tell you this it was the thickest and creamiest I have had in a long time… and we eat a lot of ice cream.

Hey, everyone needs a vice! You could point bricks with this stuff.

We did actually have a plan this day and that was to find a certain U.S. Coast Guard Boat – the Motor Lifeboat CG36500.

On the night of February 18, 1952, during a raging 70-knot nor’easter snowstorm, four Coast Guardsmen (coxswain Bernard C. “Bernie” Webber, Andrew Fitzgerald, Ervin Maske and Richard Livesey) set out on the 36500 to rescue crewmen on the tanker Pendleton that had broken apart in a storm. Incredibly, they returned to the Chatham Life-Saving Station with 32 survivors—on a boat designed to carry half that number safely. All the “Coasties” received the Gold Life-Saving Medal for their bravery under these almost impossible conditions.

The film ‘The Finest Hours’ was a spectacular telling of these brave men and that fearful night.

I had heard that the boat was at the Orleans Historical Society but, although they had plenty of memorabilia of the boat and tales of that night in 1952, the 36500 would be found a few miles away, thankfully once again in the water, at Rock Harbor.

Page 29 To see the 36500 restored to her former glory and to think of what it and these men did nearly 65 years ago brought forth quite a feeling.

If you have never heard of this story, or the film ‘The Finest Hours’, do yourself a favor and just watch the trailer – that should lead you right to watching the film.

Hey, the new Captain Kirk is in it, so you have that, if nothing else.

Continuing on towards Wellfleet we spent some time at the Marconi Beach.

It was here that Guglielmo Marconi broadcast the first transatlantic wireless communication between the United States and Europe in 1903, changing communications for the planet forevermore.

Today the first Marconi station is all but gone, with just remnants of the foundation left by the ever-changing coast and powerful Atlantic.

Still, it was the coast and cape that we came for and the coast and cape does not get any prettier than here at Marconi Beach.

Well, we came for that and some real seafood too!

Wellfleet is known for its oystas, its lobstas and its chowda and we found all of that harbor side in Wellfleet at Mac’s Seafood, right on the wata.

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APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

While we were gorging… I mean dining, we could see deep and darkening skies rushing in from the west and the earlier talk we had heard of a severe front coming through played true as we beat it back to the main road and the Wellfleet Motel (always squeaky clean!) just in time to grab a room and cover the tank bags before the deluge.

Timing is everything, they say.

Rolling through Cod The strong front that rolled through at dusk the previous night had left the atmosphere dry, crisp and cool; perfect riding weather in my book. I was up at dawn and strolling towards the motor inn’s café in search of that morning cup of Colombian go-go juice when I spotted an odd small tar snake on the otherwise pristine blacktop of the lot.

It looked strangely out of place and had a yellow band on one end. It was no bigger than my index finger. Not a tar snake, but a baby ringneck snake – a very common and just slightly venomous coastal snake. I thought maybe the parking lot, that was soon to become very busy, was not the best place for a diminutive black snake so I prodded him a bit and got him squirming into the nearby grass. Good deed for the day done it was time for coffee.

The plan from the very beginning of this sojourn was to avoid the crowds and heavy traffic of the summer here on Cape Cod, but still it seems that folks here drive in a different rhythm and pulling out into, or crossing main roads, to stay on the smaller country lanes was sometimes a challenge when dealing with Cape Codians; and I thought Rome or the Dominican Republic was tough!

We particularly chose a small road that followed, more or less, the general direction towards Provincetown or P-Town as it is known locally.

This allowed us almost totally clear and twisty roads that would run along the coast, bay and around the small salt streams and ponds that dot the Cape.

In an hour we were running along the huge

dunes that line Route 6 near the end of Cape Cod and then along the tiny road to Race Point, where we parked the bikes and spent some time along land’s end.

We dropped into P-Town, hoping to grab a spot and a bit of waterside breakfast. We made a quick stop at the Pilgrims Monument. The tall tower stands like a sentinel above the town, and was built between 1907 and 1910 to commemorate the first landfall of the Pilgrims in 1620 and the signing in Provincetown Harbor of the Mayflower Compact.

For years Provincetown stood as a working fishing village, with mostly fisherman and their families, but in the last few decades its charm has morphed into le tourist entrapment and what is now P-Town. Full of over-priced shops, just slightly gay-centric and far too touristy for us; we still made the attempt for a landing and breakfast. But, parking is almost non-existent here and the lots that were open wanted $20 per bike to park.

We took one quick lap of the town, and could feel my blood pressure begin to rise as “Entitled Pedestrians” walked out in front of the bikes, texting or listen to their iPhones and oblivious to the world. As pretty as they once might have been I have no use for “make believe villages” like P-Town these days – let the tourists have it.

We rode back out to Route 6 and stopped at something of real note.

Right outside Provincetown there is a sign that states ‘US 6 West Bishop, CA 3,205 miles / Long Beach CA 3,652 1953 Alignment’.

BACKROADS • APRIL 2017

This is the start of US 6, which we said you can ride from Cape Cod to California and I wondered how the road would change as it winds its way from the Atlantic to the Pacific.

We did finally find breakfast back in Truro before heading back to the Atlantic side of the Cape and the Nauset Lighthouse.

The small structure has been doing duty since 1838, but was almost taken back by the sea, due to the constant erosion and changing Cape Cod coast. The Nauset Light was to be dismantled by the Coast Guard, but a private trust raised the funds to save it and it was moved some 300 feet in 1996 to its present location and still serves ships at sea today.

It is considered one of the most photographed lighthouses in the northeast and looking at the images you can see why.

The day before we had searched out the Coast Guard Motor Lifeboat CG36500. When the rescue happened it happened out of the Chatham Coast guard Station and so we began to meander down towards that coastal town.

Cape Cod has an unusual terrain. We have said that it is mostly a left over from the Ice Age, but the unusual thing is that it is mostly crushed rock from those thousands of years ago and lacking of almost any glacial erratic boulders from this epoch.

Except for one big one – the Doane Rock.

Our route just happened to pass near by it so I pushed for a short detour to stop by and see the Doane Rock for ourselves.

Shira brings me to art museums and lighthouses – I bring her to ancient psychiatric hospitals and big rocks.

The erratic is the largest exposed boulder on Cape Cod. It stands 18 feet high and extends below the ground an estimated 12 feet.

Harriman State Park is full of these and some far greater, but when you are the only girl in town you get noticed.

Crossing back and forth along the Cape we rode by the Eastham Windmill.

This looked like another digital moment so we stopped and did just

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APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS that and by doing so learned that this windmill is the oldest on the Cape and was built back in 1680. It has been moved a number of time since then and seems happy and content in the park in the Eastham historic district where it was added to the National Registry of Historic Places in 1999.

Continuing along anything but US 6 we headed towards the Cape Cod town of Chatham.

There were a few things we saw on the previous day’s ride and there was more to both of the stories and the first bringing us the famous Chatham Marconi Site.

Although today the Cape is known for summer vacations, the wonderful coast and great seafood, but in the late

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19th and early 20th century, Cape Cod was also a center for communication technology and it is good to know that, in our age of instantaneous communication and the internet, that worldwide communications really began here.

The Chatham Marconi/RCA wireless facility changed the world, made maritime communications a reality and, during wartime, helped the US and its allies to defeat the Nazis.

Today the buildings house a marvelous museum and the folks there were very helpful and knowledgeable on the history of the facility.

BACKROADS • APRIL 2017

We thought we’d stop in for a short bit, but spent a good hour exploring and learning about how this place saved lives, beat the Germans and changed the world.

Our second stop in Chatham would be the US Coast Guard Life Boat Station.

It was here in February 18, 1952 that the SOS came in from the freighter Pendleton that had split in half off the Cape Cod coast and was sinking. It was from here that the brave Coast Guard men took out Motor Lifeboat CG36500 and made history as well.

After reading the books and seeing the film it was wonderful to see where all this actually occurred, although our late summer day of blue skies and 70 degrees was far different from that deadly mid-winter storm in Cape Cod years ago.

By this time it was getting towards mid-afternoon and we tried our best to stay on small roads back down and off the Cape, stopping for coffee and ice cream in Osterville. Our friend Andrea hails from there and it is a pretty place with a super chocolate and ice cream shop (Gone Chocolate), but she is not the only person from the town. David Hartman (Good Morning America), Gene Rayburn (The Match Game), Lee Remick, this Old Houses’ Bob Villa and author Kurt Vonnegut also hail from this little burg.

Who knew?

Once again the atmosphere changed as we rode off the Cape with the salty

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tang of the air and the distinct Cape Cod feel giving way to the southern sprawl of Boston. Still we managed to continue along, recapturing the Rhode Island and Newport coast vibe as we tried to hug the coast.

We took a place outside of Newport for the night and in the morning made one last stop at Twisted Throttle in Exeter, Rhode Island.

Twisted is like a superstore for riders and they have quite the set-up there, especially if you are serious and traveling motorcyclists.

Shopping done we swung inland and away from our coastal adventure, quickly riding into Connecticut and then along the smallest and most curvaceous roads we could find heading in the general direction of the Hudson River at Bear Mountain.

By early evening we were crossing back into the New Jersey Skylands region and back to Backroads Central.

The Cape Cod region offers a unique blend of American and maritime history. Although beyond crowded and almost unrideable during the summer (especially weekends), the fall and spring allow riders to enjoy what most of the locals know… Cape Cod is a beautiful part of the US and has roots deep in history, its people and the sea - and is well worth exploring at the right time of the year.

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APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

Actually it is two train wrecks and I certainly do not make light of these two terrible instances, as they were two of the worst train wrecks in the region. But, the fact is that they are there for the historical taking and that they are so overlooked, making them worthy of Mysterious America. Let’s take a look at the first of these.

Extra 1104 - The Rockport Train Wreck Rockport, NJ is a small section on New Jersey just south of Route 46, outside Hackettstown in Warren Country. This pastoral setting is as peaceful and quiet as it comes.

But right next to the Rockport Pheasant Farm the local train rails run cross the land in a straight east/west fashion. This was the old Lackawanna Railway and at the Hazen Road crossing of this rail hell literally came calling in the

early morning hours of June 16, 1925.

The train was a non-scheduled run, called Extra 1104, and it was carrying German-Americans from Chicago that were heading to Hoboken, New Jersey where they would board a steamer ship to sail back to Germany for vacations, family reunions and the like.

The previous day the train had stopped, as planned, at Niagara Falls, then Binghamton, NY and Scranton, PA where, at 12:01 a.m. engineer Fred Loomis took over the controls of Lackawanna Engine No. 1104 and the train set off on the last leg of the trip heading through the Poconos, crossing the Delaware headed for Hoboken.

Freight scheduling pushed them off the first route that would have brought them over the famed viaduct, the Lackawanna Cut-Off, and they were routed a bit south, near Hackettstown, before they would regain the main line to

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BACKROADS • APRIL 2017 Hoboken and New York Bay. That night violent storms raced through the region, dumping inches of water on a region that had not seen rain in weeks and along the embankment near Hazen Road debris began to pour down onto the tracks clogging the flangeways at the crossing.

The crew of Extra 1104 was totally unaware of the fate that waited for them down the tracks.

At 2:24 am, in the dark of the storm-filled night, Extra 1104 hit the debris at full speed and the heavy locomotive lifted off and derailed the tracks to the right. The engine continued down the track for 198 feet before it derailed entirely. All hell ensued as the cars behind it detached from each other. The rapid deceleration of the engine caused the first passenger car, No. 23, to uncouple from the tender. The momentum of the cars behind it pushed No. 23 forward until it came to rest on the locomotive’s boiler; the second passenger car, No. 33, followed, coming to rest across the rear of the boiler. The third car, the sleeper car Sirocco, came to rest next to the engine. The first two cars were carrying 90 people, the third nearly 20.

The steam fittings ripped open and superheated steam was funneled into the broken windows of the passenger cars above and beside the wrecked locomotive.

The people, most sound asleep at the time of the crash, did not have a chance.

The passengers were trapped and after the initial crash had ended were scalded to death by the steam in that first car – what the NY Times called the “Death Car.” The porter of the Sirocco, Oscar (O.J.) Daniels, pushed through the scalding tempest and closed the door through which steam was spewing, saving many passengers’ lives but suffering severe and terrible burns while doing so. When help arrived Daniels then refused medical help insisting locals treat a young girl.

After all his heroics Daniels died that night of his injuries.

To add to the confusion of this night, earlier the town’s lumber yard had caught fire from a lightning strike in an earlier storm and even after the mayhem of trying to stop the largest fire in the town’s history they had to rush out to rescue and tend to the victims of what would be the largest rail tragedy in New Jersey’s history.

With the rails wrecked, victims were brought by horse, car and truck to the nearest hospitals in towns like Easton, Phillipsburg and Morristown. Many did not make it and died on the way from the horrific burns. The human suffering was without match this night and Joseph Snyder, a local farmer who witnessed the accident and also helped spread word across the town, would later say of the wreck site, “There were men and women and kids all around everywhere, screaming worse than I ever heard.”

Forty-seven souls were lost that night from the impact and the steam.

In recognition of Daniels’ bravery, the Sirocco was renamed the Daniels. He is the only porter to have a Pullman car memorialized in his honor. Remarkably Engine 1104 was repaired and returned to service and operated until it was scrapped in 1946.

Even more stunning is the fact that 110 of the Germans boarded the ship from New Jersey to Germany the next day.

Final investigation on the horrific happenings of June 16, 1925 found no blame to be had and the incident was called an Act of Providence.

Today, next to the Rockport Pheasant Farm (a sight by itself) you will find a memorial marker in honor of the passengers of Extra 1104 – the worst train wreck in the region’s history.

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APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

The Great Shohola Train Wreck Not too far away, along the shores of the Delaware River in Shohola, just across from Barryville, New York and the popular Route 97 you will find an historic marker and a caboose train car.

If you have ridden in this area you might have passed this odd couple a hundred times but, as we know, these historic markers are there for a reason, and this time it was not a good one.

On July 15, 1864 a wide-gauge train began its trip north from New Jersey.

From the beginning of her trip Engine 171 had been delayed, leaving Jersey City far later than planned and the delays had just piled up.

Aboard were 833 Confederate prisoners of war and 128 Union guards.

Most of the guards rode in the last three cars, others stood atop boxcars and inside the boxcars. The Confederates were the fourth group of prisoners to be sent from Point Lookout, Maryland, to Elmira, New York.

The train finally passed through Port Jervis, New York, more than four hours behind schedule.

171 was also an “extra”, meaning it was not a scheduled train and would have to be given special considerations to travel the tracks, some of which were single track run through tight and remote areas.

Extra 171 began its run along the next 23 miles of the railroad which was, and is, a single track snaking along the Delaware River, with many “blind curves” to negotiate.

As it headed along the river the wood-burning engine pulled its train of eighteen cars and some 1,000 passengers, mostly prisoners of war, along at nearly 25 miles per hour.

To make sure that all traffic passed through safely a dispatcher was responsible to halt all traffic eastbound until the “extra” had passed safely.

But, Extra 171 was already four hours late and the scheduled train had passed through that morning, so when a coal train from the Hawley branch, bound for Port Jervis, stopped at Lackawaxen Junction with 50 loaded coal cars, the dispatcher, Douglas “Duff” Kent, mistakenly allowed it through.

Soon afterwards he received the message that the ‘extra’ had passed Shohola; but it was too late!

A mile and a half from Shohola the track passes through “King and Fuller’s Cut” which had only 50 feet of forward visibility as the track negotiated a series of blind bends.

The trains collided head-on with a crash so fierce that it was said that locals ‘felt it as an earthquake’. The combined speed was more than 30 mph, and propelled the wood stacked in each engine’s tenders forward into the cabs; killing both engineers and firemen. The wooden boxcars were telescoped into each other. Of the 37 men in the car immediately behind the engine, 36 were killed outright, the only survivor being thrown clear. Most casualties occurred in the first 3 boxcars, those riding further back escaped death though many were injured. A ring of uninjured guards was formed around the wreck but despite this, 5 Confederate prisoners escaped and were never recaptured.

Frank Evans, a Union guard, described the scene: “The two locomotives were raised high in the air, face-to-face against each other, like giants grappling. The front of our train was jammed into a space less than six feet. The two cars behind it were almost as badly wrecked. There were bodies impaled on iron rods and splintered beams. Headless trunks were mangled between the telescoped cars.”

The color of the uniform did not matter to the townsfolk of Barryville and Shohola that day as all were treated as best they could - for many it was too late as death was instantaneous.

Many of the dead (numbers vary between 65 & 72) were buried in unmarked graves next to the track, where they remained for 47 years until 1911 when they were moved to the Woodlawn National Cemetery at Elmira, and the Shohola Monument erected with the names of the Union soldiers on one side and the names of the Confederate soldiers on the other. Two Confederate soldiers, John and Michael Johnson, were transported across the recently constructed Shohola suspension bridge to the home of Mr. Hickock. They died overnight and were buried in the cemetery of the small congregational

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church. The graves are marked by single stones and a small wooden cross.

During an inquest held at Shohola, everyone connected with the wreck was exonerated, including Duff Kent, who gave the coal train the right-of-way. He should have known the train carrying the prisoners was on the track. Persistent reports say that he was a drinker and could have been under the influence of alcohol. He did not take the wreck very seriously and according to a story which circulated, he went to Hawley to attend a dance. The next day the public became so incensed with his actions that Kent left for parts unknown and was never heard from again.

The Shohola Railroad Historical Society houses a museum dedicated to the wreck in a caboose stationed permanently in Shohola.

With these two terrible wrecks we can see how fragile we all are and how quickly things can go sideways, one an “Act of God” the other a terrible mistake by one man.

Both memorials deserve to be sought out and remembered along the backroads of Mysterious America.

O’Life out!

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APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

ELECTION DAY TRAIN WRECK RIDE

Regardless if you won, lost or were indifferent to this past election cycle we think we can all agree that at times the last few years seem to have been like a train wreck.

It’s over now and we hope that the United States sees nothing but clear skies, curvy roads and perfect weather ahead.

But, on the day of the national election we thought we’d take that “train wreck” feeling to heart and held an impromptu Mystery Ride, following along with this Train Wreck piece.

The invite went out with less than 24 hours notice and we still had half a dozen, playing electoral hooky. We met, after voting of course, at a Dunkin’ Donuts off Interstate 80 in Warren County.

Our ride slipped down through the forest, hills and farms of the Jersey Skylands, to the scene of the worst disaster in the county’s history and the Memorial to Extra 1104.

When we sent out the invite we also sent a link to the film about this tragedy by John General, and this gave our group a little bit of back story of what had happened here all those years back.

While we were there we couldn’t help but notice that the pheasant game farm next door was full of birds about to be released and, atop the netting that they call home, sat a number of turkey vultures taking up point on the poles above.

Someone started humming the theme to The Great Escape and we began to think of the vultures standing watch as Nazi soldiers and the pheasants POWs, looking for a way out.

lley’s Hudson Va ne Riding Number O estaurant R e u q e b r Ba W North 1076 Route 9 mery, NY Fort Montgo

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BACKROADS • APRIL 2017 Suddenly one bird got loose and made a dash for the trees.

I was waiting for him to steal one of the bikes and try to race to the relative safety of Pennsylvania.

Yup, Steve McPheasant… Kooler for you.

Our own mad dash to Pennsylvania was uninterrupted by machine gun fire, or anything else, as it made its way over the hills on some very neat secondary and tertiary roadways and over into the Keystone State at Belvidere.

We then spun up west and north making a bonus stop at Columcille Megalith Park, with its giant standing stones and magical Celtic flair.

Not one of our group knew of this magnificent hideaway, so it was smiles and wonderment all around.

We connected the dots for the rest of the day’s ride with lunch at the Gem & Keystone (GAADR 8/16) in Shawnee on Delaware, where we had a great lunch and, in true rider fashion, talked bikes and not politics.

Moving on we then moseyed up along the river to Shohola and the Civil War train wreck site and museum.

The Hawks Nest is always a pleasure, especially when almost empty, but yet we still found a tourist to bring us through there with a yellow flag flying.

Well, better that then a “sorcerer to be” speeding towards us in a Lamborghini Huracán.

Coffee, pie and ridesafeseeyalaters were to be had at the Elias Cole (GAADR 6/16) – best pie in the county we tell ya!

We then all had to beat the clock and the sun home, as we were back on standard time this week and, while some would dive deep into the political pool that night, we chose to keep to the ironic topics and saw Dr. Strange instead.

We must tell Stephen how to get through the Hawk’s Nest without making it a train wreck!

Here’s the GPS Download for the ride: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/lh9d36

SPRING CLEAN YOUR RIDING SKILLS. FIND A PARKING LOT AND GO OVER YOUR BASICS.

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APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

SHAD EXPANDABLE SH58X TOP CASE Shad’s SH58X is the only motorcycle top case that is adjustable up to 58L, it can be adapted both to everyday life in the city and to those adventure trips you have always dreamed about. A very versatile top case which can be changed between the different positions.

Three cases in one, thanks to its flexible design, that can fulfill very different needs.

Size L: this case offers a volume of 46L, which allows carrying things needed for every day.

Size XL: In the second level it reaches 52L, which is very helpful for those short weekend trips.

Size XXL: the volume reaches 58L, enough to bring anything you

‘50s-Style Drive-In Restaurant Full and Varied Menu Room for the Whole Gang Spring is here! Join us at

THE CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN GREAT FOOD • GOOD TIMES • EXCELLENT RIDING Located at Ross’ Corners • 1 Route 15 • Augusta NJ • 973-300-2300

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The Boat House Restaurant Perfect in Any Season Brunch, Lunch or Dinner on Swartswood Lake

Excellent Ride Destination

Tues-Sun 11A-9P Brunch 10A-2P Closed Monday Call for Seasonal Hours

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need to that amazing adventure you have been dreaming about for so long.

Shad has created a range of accessories where design, while also enhanceing the aesthetics of the set, is at the service of ergonomics and comfort.

The backrest is designed as an ergonomic piece, offering greater comfort for the passenger, while also providing an improved aesthetics to the top case.

The Expandable Inner Bag is the perfect match for greater comfort.

It is fully adaptable to the 3 top case positions. Use it to prepare the baggage or to carry it comfortably without having to release the top case from the motorcycle.

The SH58X offers 4 optional colors. In addition to the Carbon look (the carbon cover is included), the cover is available in white, metal black and new titanium.

With a suggested retail price of $399 this is a do it all piece of luggage no matter how long you will be on the road.

See your local Shad dealer or log onto www.shadusa.com for more information and individual applications.

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

HJC ENTERS DUAL SPORT MARKET WITH DS-X1 As dual-sport aficionados continue to appear more and more within the twowheel world, HJC introduces the DS-X1: a do-it- all, quality adventure helmet at an accessible price.

The DS-X1 is the ideal helmet for both on and off-road riding, adapting to different riding styles with three configurations: shield and visor, shield only, or visor only (goggle prepared).

HJC’s 3D CAD sculpted Advanced Polycarbonate composite shell results in superior fit and comfort, designed for the maximum range of motion needed for the bold and rugged ride ahead. The extensive eye-port allows for maximum visibility and superior goggle fit. A secure seal is ensured with integrated lock tabs, a beveled bottom edge and optically correct, 3D-sculpted shape.

To prevent anti-lift while riding at highway speeds and increase ventilation with ram-air direction, the DS-X1 supports an aerodynamic and dual-function visor.

Ventilation is comprised of a large, adjustable mouth vent and HJC’s Advanced

BACKROADS • APRIL 2017

Page 41

Channeling System (ACS) for high volume ram-air intakes that flow and cool through internal channeling and allow hot air to exit through the spoiler exhaust.

To address conditions after long, adventurous rides, the DS-X1 Supercool Textile interior is moisture wicking, anti-bacterial treated, removable and washable.

The DS-X1 is offered in four solid colors: silver, black, semi-flat black and white. It is also available in the Lander graphic, which comes in high-vis yellow or black and reflective silver for added visibility.

HJC’s first dual-sport model can be purchased at a competitive price starting at $169.99. Breath deflector and chin curtain included. Optional cold weather breath box is available.

Sizes range from XS-2XL and the DS-X1 is DOT approved.

See your HJC dealer or log onto www.hjchelmets.com for more information.

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

MICHELIN ANAKEE WILD 50/50 DUAL SPORT TIRE With the market for large ADV machines getting stronger with each model year, the selection from various tire manufacturers are widening too.

Now offering three different flavor tires for the larger adventure rides, the newest Anakee Wild is a true 50/50 road/dirt combination.

The Michelin Anakee Wild is a radial tire designed for big trail bikes meant for both on- and off-road use. Most tires in this category are bias-ply and the Wild’s construction is a big plus.

The new Michelin Anakee Wild is aimed at motorcyclists who view their riding as an expedition and a means to experience and discover exciting journeys, those who wish to fully exploit the potential of bikes designed for roads or the most uneven, sandy, stony and muddy tracks.

Michelin Anakee Wild was designed to adapt to all terrain types and situations, as well as the most varied climates.

In short, it is a “multi-purpose” tire that demonstrates its performance according to the conditions it encounters.

The mission of the development engineers was to combine three performance characteristics: on-road stability and comfort, resistance to overheating and wear and increased wet-road and off-road traction.

The new Michelin Anakee Wild achieves these goals through the new tread composition, optimized tread depth and the innovative design of the tread blocks, which was inspired by those used on Michelin Desert tires that won the ParisDakar Rally 33 times. Additionally, the tire is the first radial made available on four different sizes of knobby tires.

(See further technical explanations accessible on this video link https://youtu.be/Sxprsd31YOo.) Michelin Anakee Wild treads are packed with technologies, with the rear tire focusing on stability while the front tire’s job is focusing on steering precision and grip.

If you are a rider who spends a great deal of time off pavement and along dirt, gravel trails and unpaved fire roads then this could be the tire for you.

Please visit www.michelinmotorcycle.com for information and machine applications.

Long Island Kawasaki 67 North Broadway • Route 107 • Hicksville, NY

www.LIKawasaki.com • 516-935-6969 Visit our showroom and see the full line of Kawasaki motorcycles, ATVs, Jet Skis and UTVs

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PRODUCT REVIEW

APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

AEROSTICH TWO-PIECE ROADCRAFTER SUIT

Route 739 • Dingmans Ferry, PA • 570.828.1920

We have all heard the maxim “You get what you pay for” and over the years I have found that to be true with some things more than others.

One of these, without doubt, has been the Aerostich Roadcrafter Suits we have ridden with over the decades.

The selling price for a two-piece Roadcrafter Riding Suit these days is just a bit under $1,500.

Certainly not inexpensive in anyway and purchasing one might quite possibly be the second largest investment in your motorcycling career.

And, that is how I feel about a time-tested and well-made product such as my new two-piece Roadcrafter suit – it is an investment, not something I had to have, but something I really wanted.

Like most folks, when we invest in something we expect a few things. We hope it will perform, last and still make us feel we did the right thing years down the road – literally.

After more than a decade I have taken possession of my newest Roadcrafter suit. It was not that my previous black and gray two-piece had given up the ghost or become anything more that slightly abused. It was a sizing and conspicuity thing for me.

In addition, Shira’s blue and yellow Roadcrafter Suit had a few newer features that made it better than mine and there was no denying that she stood out bright and noticeable on the backroads.

After much internal conflict and numerous (I mean numerous) opinions asked for, given and ignored, measurements taken again and again and again, I finally bit the bullet and put in my order to the Duluth, Minnesota company.

A few things were taken into consideration – my go-to Roadcrafter black material held up fine color-wise, but the black did get warm (okay, hot) in certain locales and I had been doubling up at the gym and scaling down at the table – so the old suit was began to swim on me too.

The new suit would be grey with high-viz ballistics; cooler when needed, warm when wanted and as bright and conspicuous as they come.

I have often had the question put to me why I prefer two-piece to the one-piece suits available from Aerostich.

Simple – I like the idea that I can use the jacket off the bike or simply take it off when entering a restaurant or stopping for a short while. If needed – such as track days or CLASS- I can easily and very quickly zip the pants and jacket together, basically making the two-piece a onesy.

Most riders will find that they can probably fit comfortably into an Aerostich Roadcrafter suit off the rack as the company offers dozens of sizes, styles and color combinations as well as custom sizing too.

My jacket would be a rack item, but my pants needed a bit more around the thighs and calves – easily done as each Roadcrafter is crafted by hand in Duluth.

With custom orders turnaround can take a bit of time, thus my early winter order, but about a month later a delivery truck rolled up the drive at Backroads Central and my new Roadcrafter had arrived – and was immediately claimed by Spenser T. Cat. He has taste.

All the measuring and working with the experts at Aerostich paid off as the off-the-rack jacket fit perfectly and the custom-sized pants fit well at the waist and had plenty of room around the legs - whether wearing jeans beneath the suit or just shorts or a thin base-layer, I knew I would be comfortable, especially on the bike, where it counted.

The Roadcrafter is also one of the easiest suits to get in and out of. If you have never worn one a few days practice and you will be sliding in and out of the suit like a pro.

The Roadcrafter Classic, created from Military-spec 500 Denier Cordura GORE-TEX fabric, comes fully lined and the jacket has strategically placed pockets (my favorite being the small sleeve pocket on the right

BACKROADS • APRIL 2017 side), rotated sleeves and action back gussets. When worn the jacket covers the pants by a good six inches.

The pants have a waist drawstring with cord locks, and there are two additional pockets sewn into its lining accessible behind the flaps covering the side zippers.

The Roadcrafter suit comes with many standard features high-visibility Scotchlite reflective material across the back vent, the front pocket flap, and the ankle adjustment tabs add to nighttime conspicuity.

Over the years we have worn these suits in all sorts of weather conditions including days of rain, snow and cold winds and have found them to be almost perfectly watertight.

Eventually water will always find a way in, but far less so with these suits.

Roadcrafter suits can also take a beating.

Here at Backroads we do not have a real Crash Test Dummy so Shira has stepped in a few times to do the honors.

From slight tip-overs in parking lots to a few massive and violent slides at speed, the Roadcrafter Suit has protected her and survived some truly nasty stuff.

My new suit came with optional hip as well as TF3 armor and back impact armor in the jacket as well. You want these.

This armor is state-of-the-art and, as we have said, we know it works.

And, if it does, and if your own suit is ever damaged, Aerostich can repair it for you (at a charge, of course).

Other additional features are spots for removable arm and thigh map window pockets, the optional hip and back impact armor, highly water resistant underarm and back vents, an ultrasuede collar that can be snapped down and is very comfortable, and a variety of adjustable tabs and zippers to dial in your suit to your own individual needs.

The suit itself is tailored in a way to minimize wind drag and flutter, even at track speed.

The suits are available in five colors: black, grey, hi-viz lime yellow, oxblood, or tan and six abrasion area colors: black, grey, hi-viz lime yellow, tan, cobalt blue, red, or silver. You can even go on-line and try different color combinations out – believe me I lived on this site for a week.

The Roadcrafter Classic is machine washable and very easy to care for. Off the rack you will find sizes in men’s 34–54 short, regular or long and women’s 2-20. (2? That’ll fit Mr. Happy) If you have been an active rider for any amount of time you must have seen dozens, perhaps hundreds of riders wearing Aerostich suits – and there is a reason.

It comes back to what you are willing to invest in your riding and yourself. When it comes to something as pricey and important you are not just purchasing this suit, but investing in it.

Having good fitting, comfortable and protective riding gear is fundamental and over the decades there is a reason that Aerostich’s Roadcrafter is in a class by itself and worth every penny.

Log onto www.aerostich.com to see more or to order their awesome catalog.

As an extra incentive, Aerostich is bringing their fine custom fitters to the east, with a Pop-Up event on March 29-April 1 at edgewater Commons Mall, 493 River Road, edgewater, NJ. Here you can get the perfect fit, place your order and wait for the Big Brown Truck to deliver your most excellent piece of riding equipment. For full details visit aerostich.com/nj17 or call 800-222-1994.

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APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

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LEFT ON DRAKESTOWN RD LEFT ON RIVER RD LEFT ON BARTLEY RD RIGHT ON FLANDERS BARTLEY RD STRAIGHT ON IRONIA RD INTO REGER RD LEFT ON PLEASANT HILL RD RIGHT ON IRONIA RD INTO PLEASANT HILL RD STRAIGHT ON CALAIS RD RIGHT ON SUSSEX TPKE RIGHT ON SPEEDWELL AVE BEAR LEFT ON SPRING ST LEFT ON MORRIS ST RIGHT ON COLUMBIA RD LEFT ON JAMES ST LEFT ON RIDGEDALE AVE LAST LICKS ON LEFT

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BACKROADS • APRIL 2017

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The FDNY Dream Bike Part III The Amazing and Improbable Journey of One Special Machine words: Brian Rathjen • images: Tony Lisanti Over the last number of months we have told you the story of Gerard Baptiste, a firefighter from the Great Jones Street House, and we talked about his basket case of a Honda he had hoped to resurrect. We respectfully revisited the horrors of September 11, 2001 and the bittersweet story of this one particular motorcycle and its rebirth and then odd journey over the years.

Finally we would like to tell you where it has come to rest – we hope for many, many years - and invite you to see it for yourself at the 9/11 Memorial Museum.

After years of discussion, planning and hope this museum was finally dedicated on May 15, 2014 and opened on May 21.

It is a place of respect, honor and remembrance for all who visit. It’s okay to get emotional. It is almost impossible not to.

As you enter the museum and make your way through the sorrows of that fateful day you will come upon the FDNY Dream Bike. Finally home at last.

It took a long time and more than a bit of fortitude and effort from Nuri and Michael Wernick and the 9/11 Memorial Museum to help make this happen and we all want to thank them so much for doing this. It is literally a dream come true to have this machine here after all the years and all of the miles the bike has traveled since being spotted by a young firefighter on a cross street in Manhattan.

A plaque tells the story of the FDNY Dream Bike in a beneficent fashion and many stop to see why such a beautiful Honda motorcycle would be here at the

9/11 Memorial Museum and then read the story and understand why.

In our previous installment of this story we mentioned a book by Edward Rutherford called New York. In this book, which spans centuries of New York history, there is a wampum belt that is given to the first character of the book and that follows the family as an heirloom for those many years.

In the penultimate act of the book it is pulverized into dust during the attacks on 9/11 and the dust comes to rest in the very place the story began.

Thus it is with the FDNY Dream Bike.

Its journey ends where it all began and we hope that you find time to visit, pay your respects and know it is okay to cry.

National September 11 Memorial & Museum • www.911memorial.org 180 Greenwich St, NyC, Ny • Hours: Sun-Thur 9a-8p; Fri-Sat 9a-9p Tickets required • Memorial open daily 7:30a-9p Free Admission

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APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

Seeing into the Future So last month we talked a bit about Precrashtination and having our eyes open to the fact that things can and will happen, despite our best efforts to be the best riders we can be, and that wearing proper gear all the time might be a good thing.

So, while I am in prophesy mode let me talk a bit about seeing into the future.

Whoa, now I am not talking Nostradamus, Edgar Cayce and the like. This is not that kind of vision that we are talking here. What I want to talk about is what you see when you are riding your motorcycle.

Where are your eyes and what are they registering?

I recently read How To Drive by a professional driver named Ben Collins. Unlike all the other books on how to excel at motorized transportation, this one is not about motorcycles, but automobiles.

Since I always assume I can learn more about riding, it is safe to say that I, and you, can learn more about how to drive better as well.

Besides, many of you might know Ben Collins by his other name – the Stig.

The book is very good, funny and to the point and I am sure I am of Stig-quality behind the wheel these days.

But, one of the basic things Collins pushed in How to Drive was the need to keep your eyes up and to look as far as you can down the road.

This is a common bit of advice you will receive again and again when you take high performance riding schools.

I clearly remember years back attending CLASS Riding School. I was circulating around the track, trying my best to be smooth and quick when I was passed by one of the instructors who signaled for me to follow them and then exit the track to the pit lane where we discussed what I could be doing better.

Right off I was told I needed to get my vision far down the road.

I had thought I was, but I was there to learn so I attempted to do as he requested and consciously concentrated not only on where my eyes were, but at actually seeing what was way, way, way ahead.

Somewhere along the line that day things got significantly better. The turns 4 A & B, a hard left that tightened upon itself and then swung right after a

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short straight no longer gave me the “yips” and began to be the part of the track that I was actually looking forward to.

The difference being where my eyes focused and what I was taking in. I began to see the future.

Not getting what I am saying?

Well, try this. When riding down the road (or driving) look directly in front of you, then compare that to when you look far down the road. The difference in how fast things happen is remarkable.

When your vision is limited things come at you very quickly. When your eyes are far down the road – as far as you can see – things naturally slow down and allow your brain to see, digest and understand what you are riding into.

This technique is not only good for moving along at a brisk pace, it works in parking lots and the slow techniques we all seem to need help on.

At the Ride Like a Pro classes, you will hear instructors, like Rick Mickles, constantly say, “Look at me - look at me!” He and other instructors want those eyes up. The first thing we learn as riders is that the motorcycle will go where you look - both in the parking lot and on the streets.

So while on your bike… you probably want to go further down the road, right? It is how we get from here to there. So, look to there as soon as you can.

Look to the future.

You will soon be where you are, or were, looking, but by keeping your eyes up and looking as far ahead as you can, you will be able to see into the future and plan accordingly.

BACKROADS • APRIL 2017

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RIDE LIKE A PRO NJ Advanced Riding Training Classes Being Held in New Jersey ‘NEVER FEAR that U-turn or dropping your 800lb. or any motorcycle again’ • You can learn the 3 simple techniques that master low speed maneuvers that Motorcops have been using for years • Our instructors - all active or retired motor officers - will instruct the use of Motorcop riding techniques to help you better control your motorcycle

There is a difference between just riding and riding well

Pre-registration is recommended as classes fill quickly.

Gift certificates available • Course Fee is $175.00 Gift Certificates purchased before 12/31/16 discounted @ $150 Visit our website to take advantage of this special offer.

RideLikeAProNJ.com

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APRIL 2017 • BACKROADS

UP C OM I N G E VE NT S CAL END AR EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTING Every Tuesday • Two Wheeled Tuesday at Spiegel Restaurant • 26 1st Avenue, NyC. An eclectic gathering of motorcycles served with multi-cuisine meals. Kick some tires, have some couscous, enjoy the crowd • www.spiegelnyc.com • 212-228-2894 Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-In, Rtes. 15/206, Augusta, NJ. Tire kicking, good food and friends • www.chatterboxdrivein.com 2nd Friday April thru September 9th @ 6-8pm • 120 N. Queen Street, Lancaster, PA • The Lancaster County Motorcycle Dealers Association invites you to share their passion of riding and discover all that historic downtown Lancaster has to offer • More info: www.2FBN.com Every Saturday April thru October • Bergen County Harley Davidson Saddle Up Saturday. 9am for coffee and bagels. Ride departs at 10am. Return to the dealership for FRee food and music. Proper attire MUST be worn! No shorts or sneakers. BCHD, 124 essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenharleydavidson.com

MARCH 2017 30-Apr 2 • March Moto Madness Adventure Rally, Tellico Plains, TN. Join the Madness, a gathering of Adventurous riders from across the world. Sun, snow, rain, warm or cold.

3 nights camping, 3 breakfast, 2 dinners, coffee, fire pit, bike games, guided and selfguided rides. Great door prizes. $85 thru 3/16, $100 after. Get all the details and register @ MarchMotoMadness.com 29-Apr 1 • Aerostich Pop Up event. 493 River Rd, edgewater Commons Mall, edgewater, NJ. Fittings anytime or by appt. All models, sizes, colors. Stock sizes available for same-day sale. Full details: aerostich.com/NJ17 • 800-222-1994

APRIL 2017 1 • Bergen County Harley-Davidson Season Opener. Ride, Bike Blessing, Music and more. FRee BBQ from 1pm till done. 124 essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • bergenharley.com 1 • Bob’s BMW Sport Bike Day 9am-4pm. All makes, modesl and enthusiasts welcome.

Guest speaker: Roger Lyle of MotorcycleXcitement Track Days & Road Racing School and Pro MotoAmerica racer Jeremy Cook. Food, prizes, special savings and more.

10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD • 888-BMWBOBS • bobsbmw.com 8-9 • eurobike 2017, a family-friendly event dedicated to european design and machines. Historic City Market, Raleigh, North Carolina. Local Saturday ride, gathering and bike show, with raffle prizes and bike show awards. Music, vendor booths, tech talks, and food. Proceeds beneit InterAct, a non-profit assisting families and victims of domestic violence. Full details and registration @ eurobikeraleigh.com 15 • Hudson Valley Motorcycles presents the Ducati SuperSport. Come see the new offering from this Italian marque. 179 North Highland Ave/Rte 9, Ossining, Ny • HudsonValleyMotorcycles.com • 914-762-2722 23 • 24th Annual Gathering of the Nortons. Washington Crossing Historic Park, River Rd, Washington Crossing, PA. 10am-1pm. FRee. All welcome to celebrate the unapproachable Norton motorcycle. Pre-1983 vintage bike parking area and prestgious Norton row. All makes of motorcycles welcome. RIDe ‘eM DON’T HIDe ‘eM. www.dvnr.org 23 • Motorcyclepedia Museum Spring Swap Meet & Warehouse Sale. Two locations: 250 Lake St and 21 Liberty St, Newburgh Ny. 8am start at both. Vendors Wanted. For full details and to register as vendor, please visit www.motorcyclepediamuseum.org or call 845-569-9065 ext. 501 27-30 • Horizons Unlimited, Appomatox VA. Adventure Travellers Rally. Full details at www.horizonsunlimited.com/virginia 28 • Woodstock H-D Open House Tent event. BBQ @ 11 4/29 only, vendors, games, prizes, ride and bike wash and more. 949 Rte. 28, Woodstock, Ny • 845-338-2800 • WoodstockHarley.com 29 • Bob’s BMW Spring Open House 9am-4pm. Bob’s biggest event of the year. Product Reps, vendors, seminars and speakers, special sales, food, prizes and more. 10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD • 888-BMWBOBS • bobsbmw.com 30 • Pets for Vets Poker Run sponsored by elks North West District. Sign in: Tramontin H-D, Route 80, exit 12, Hope, NJ 9-11am. $20/pp donation incl. food & beverages, music, prizes. end: Sussex elks Lodge #2288, 152 CR 565, Sussex, NJ Noon-5pm.

100% proceeds/donations for Pets for Vets Northern NJ • PetsForVets.com • 973-2627829 • nancy@tramontinhd.com

MAY 2017 6-7 • Woodstock H-D Demo Ride event - All Day, Both Days. Harley-Davidson Demo Truck is IN THe HOUSe. Ride any or all 2017 models. 949 Rte. 28, Woodstock, Ny • 845-338-2800 • WoodstockHarley.com 7 • Ramapo MC Club Spring Charity Fun Run to benefit the Helen Hayes Rehabilitation Hospital Foundation.Sign in: 9am @ Rhodes North Tavern, 40 Orange Tpke, Sloatsburg, Ny. Self-guided route along Hudson Valley’s interesting roads with stops for poker/dice/scrabble games to win prizes and support a worthy cause. Details: Richard Roberts (914) 422-1806 • rdcptrmc@yahoo.com • www.ramapomc.org 5-7 • Frontline eurosports 2nd Annual Spring in the Mountains Rally. Mountain Lake Lodge, Pembroke, VA. Full details: www.frontlineeurosports.com

What’s Happening 19-21 • Morton’s BMW Spring Fling Rally. JWeekend of great roads, good food, interesting scavenger hunt and terrific company @ Natural Bridge Hotel, Natural Bridge, VA. your rally fee includes vendors, route sheets, door prizes, scavenger hunt poker run with a prize for the winner, Friday Brats & Brew dinner, Saturday dinner & presentation and more. Complete info and registration @ www.mortonsbmw.com • 540-891-9844.

20-21 • New Sweden BMW Riders 4th Annual New Sweden 450. Start: Cycle Gear, 2070 Route 70 e, Cherry Hill, NJ • end: P.J. Whelihans, 1854 Route 70 e, Cherry Hill, NJ. 450 miles over 2 days on some of the great back roads in the Delaware Valley area.

This year the route heads north into Ny. To find out more, point your browser towards www.450.nsbmwr.com 28 • Dawn Patrol MC Memorial Day Ride. Sign in: Bradley Gardens Firehouse, 24 Old york Rd, Bridgewater, NJ 9am-Noon with coffee & donuts. end: Dawn Patrol MC Clubhouse, 106 Robert St, Bridgewater, NJ. Info: 908-722-4357 • dawnpatrolmc.com

18-21 • BACKROADS SPRING BREAK - ALMOST HEAVEN TOUR. See page 44 or full details @ backroadsusa.com/rallies.html.

JUNE 2017 5-10 • DirtDaze - Lake Luzerne, Ny • 518-798-7888 • www.DirtDaze.com 6-10 • Americade - World’s largest touring rally - Lake George, Ny • 518-798-7888 • www.americade.com 9-11 • Street Skills LLC On-Road style cornering confidence courses @ Americade.

Lake Luzerne, Ny • 585-802-9859 • www.streetskills.net 10-18 • Laconia Motorcycle Week - world's oldest motorcycle rally - Laconia, NH • 603-366-2000 • www.laconiamcweek.com 15-17 • 25th Anniversary Mid-Atlantic Women’s Motorcycle Rally, Front Royal, VA Holiday Inn Blue Ridge Shadows. Featured speakers and seminars, rides and more.

For full details visit www.mawmr.org 18 • Last Ride of the New york Cruisers. Start: Mobil gas station, Hutchinson River Parkway North, White Plains, Ny • 8:30-9:30am KSU 10am. Shirt ride with lunch to follow. For more details email: KQuinn5801@gmail.com • 914-774-4468 19 • 26th International Motorcycle & Scooter RIDe TO WORK DAy • RideToWork.org 22-25 • Thunder in the Valley, Johnstown, PA • JohnstownThunder.com

JULY 2017 8-9 • Ramapo MC Club’s 41st Annual Ramapo 500. 500 miles of gorgeous scenery and backroads, free camping, onsite trailer rentals, nearby hotels, river swimming, Saturday night dinner, awards and prizes, Sunday breakfast, starter pins and finisher patches. Sign in: RMC Clubhouse/Veterans Memorial Assoc, 66 Lake Rd, Congers, Ny • 7am. Details: Fred Peck (845) 300-1247 • rmc@ramapomc.org • www.ramapomc.org

AUGUST 2017 14 • Street Skills LLC Cornering Confidence Track Day course @ New york Safety Track, Harpersfield, Ny • 585-802-9859 • www.streetskills.net 17-20 • 3rd Annual Touratech Rally east, Huntingdon, PA. 4-day rally with opportunity for riders from around the US and the world to camp out, attend workshops and presentations, improve riding skills meet industry pros and explore fun mountain roads.

Rides for different experience levels and all street-legal motorcycles are welcome. Go to www.touratechrally.com for details and signup.

25-27 • The Dream Ride experience. Motorcycle Rally & Ride, car/motorcycle shows, activities for Special Olympics, live entertainment, on-site pet adoptions, celebrity appearances, vendors, raffles, fun and more. For full details: DreamRide.org

SEPTEMBER 2017 3 • Dawn Patrol MC Labor Day Ride - Lime Dot and Route Sheets. Sign in: Bradley Gardens Firehouse, 24 Old york Rd, Bridgewater, NJ 9am-Noon with coffee & donuts. end: Dawn Patrol MC Clubhouse, 106 Robert St, Bridgewater, NJ with food, beverages, live music, vendors and more. Info: 908-722-4357 • dawnpatrolmc.com

21-25 • BACKROADS FALL FIESTA - NY STATE OF MIND TOUR. See page 44 or full details @ backroadsusa.com/rallies.html.

OCTOBER 2017 14-19 • BACKROADS CLASS Rally. Ride to and from VIR with a small group. Details: www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html 15 • Ramapo MC Club Fall Foliage Tour to benefit the Valerie Fund for childhood cancer research. Guided or self-guided tour along Hudson Valley’s autumn foliage roads. Sign in: Rhodes North Tavern, 40 Orange Tpke, Sloatsburg, Ny @ 9am. Details: Kent Sullwold (845) 304-3454 • kms.elec.engr@gmail.com • www.ramapomc.org

POLAR BEAR SCHEDULE 2017 www.PolarBearGrandTour.com • 908-722-0128 for schedule updates

APRIL 2017

12-14 • Buzzard Bottom 10 presented by Poverty Riders International and Buzzard Brent. High Country Motorcycle Camp, Ferguson, NC. Camping $12/night, meals available. Come early and stay late. Full details: highcounrymotorcyclecamp.com • Brent 336-973-3911 • brent.hcmc@gmail.com

2 • BRIAN’S HD, 600 S. Flowers Mill Rd, Langhorne PA • 215 752-9400 PA

18-21 • COG Spring Fling Rally, Bennington, VT. Great riding in all directions. Group catered dinner Saturday at a local museum. event and registration details @ tinyurl.com/COGSpringFLing2017 or contact nead@cog-online.org • 914-953-4154

30 • CAPe MAy VFW POST# 386, 419 Congress St, Cape May, NJ • 609 884-7961

9 • THe HICKORy BBQ SMOKe HOUSe, 743 Rt. 28 Kingston; Ny • 845 338-2424 23 • CHeeBURGeR CHeeBURGeR, 336 Northampton St, easton, PA • 610 438-1311 MAY 5 • eND OF SeASON GeT-TOGeTHeR • The Pic-a-Lilli Inn, 866 Route 206, Shamong, NJ • 609 268-2066 @ 11:30am. Members: $6/person

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