W H A T ’ S
I N S I D E 24
MO NT HLY C O L UMNS FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................2 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................3 POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE.......................4 ON THE MARK ....................................................5
Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure
Publishers
Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil
Contributors
Mark Byers, Kimi Ceridon, Pamela Collins, Don Gomo, Bill Heald, Jeffrey Kurtzman, Dr. Seymour O’Life
BACKLASH..........................................................7 THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD ..........................8 INDUSTRY INFOBITES.......................................9 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA ..................................11
Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822
GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ..............13 BIG CITY GETAWAY .........................................15 WE’RE OUTTA HERE ........................................17 I KNOW THIS PLACE.........................................19
phone
WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE ............................21 INSIDE SCOOP .................................................22 UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ...................37
F E AT U RE S DAY TRIPPING AROUND COSTA DEL SOL ....24 MARTIN MOTO’S MODERN CLASSICS .........32 BEST + WORST OF EVERYTHING ELSE.........34 SPRING BREAK DAY RIDES ............................44
PR O DU C T R E VIE WS GORDON’S HEATED GEAR.............................29 SRC HEADLIGHT GUARD................................31 SCHUBERTH HELMETS...................................38 HYPERPRO SUSPENSION...............................41
32 44
973.948.4176
fax
973.948.0823
editor@backroadsusa.com
online
www.backroadsusa.com
Advertising
973-948-4176
Follow Us
Backroads-Motorcycle-Touring-Magazine
Tweet Us
@BackroadsGal
See Us
backroadsmagazine
BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2019. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.
Page 2
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS
FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJeN
Put Out tO Pasture A few friends and I were galloping around the backroads of Vermont last summer when I came up to a T intersection at the end of a long, hilly, and sometimes challenging gravel road. Following the lead of my buddies I made a right, but then a sight came into view that had me roll slowly to a stop and pull out my camera. In the middle of a pasture stood an old Corvette. Sitting there, basically abandoned, I could not help but shake my head. I could hear a play on Prince in my head – “Little red Corvette – baby you look so sad.” I grabbed a quick image, tucked away the Nikon and played catchup to the group, who were now about a mile or two down the road. Most of them have learned long ago that Brian might ‘disappear’ for a minute or two for a photograph only to suddenly appear in the mirrors once again. We found lunch at the Rochester Café on Route 100. In between sandwiches and mandatory maple milkshakes the ‘Vette came up in conversation. “Did anyone see that Corvette?” Everyone did. “You take a picture of that, Brian?” “Indeed… it was like a sad combination of dereliction and Americana art. With a little bit of Photoshop that could almost be a display shot.” “So you Photoshop everything? That is really a sad thing,” was a slightly snarky response. “No,” was my firm reply, “Ansel Adams manipulated all his final prints, yet he is considered a photography legend and rightly so.” My point made, well at least in mind. I am no Ansel Adams, although I do
NEW YORK
MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENT VICTIMS The Law Office of Paul G. Gargiulo, P.C. 199 Main St. • Ste. 901 • White Plains, NY 10601
ed by resent has Be rep o ne wh someo g for over in id been r s.
ar 25 ye
If you’ve been involved in a motorcycle accident, get the knowledgeable, sympathetic and forceful legal representation you are entitled to. No fee unless a recovery is made. Testimonials available.
The One to Call in New York State Call the Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. for a free consult and evaluation of your case.
(914) 421-0905 www.whiteplainsaccidentlawyer.com
have a book of his prints. How many times have we ridden by things that were once treasured and sought after and now find themselves left along the side of a house, tucked away in a barn with half a roof or put out to pasture in a field in Vermont. Too many times I think. The other day we were following a truck towing basically what was the chassis, frame and various parts of what was once someone’s pride and joy – a brand spankin’ new pick-up truck – now a hulking piece of rust but with, perhaps, a rescue attempt in the making. I see shows on the tube where enthusiasts take years rebuilding, refurbishing and restoring old cars, bikes and even houses. Last year I had trouble with my KLR and took everything apart looking for an electrical Gremlin. After a week of nightly searching I found I had little patience for a bigger rebuild. I know I suffer from IGS, also known as Instant Gratification Syndrome, and this sometimes prevents me from slowing down to take my time with things… to get it right the first time. There is a reason Shira shudders when I go to paint a room in our home. Still, here was this - what once was a truck - being towed by another real running truck to some garage somewhere and in a few years something fine will roll out that garage, I am sure. This truck had been saved from the pasture. There have been some motorcycles I know, that might have wasted away, only to be saved from refuse obscurity by concerned riders as well. Our friend Rudy was at his uncle’s house when the subject of motorcycles came up. His uncle walked him out to the far barn and in the back there was a bike covered with an old tarp. Underneath, covered with a light patina of dust, sat an early 70s Suzuki GT750. Three cylinders, two-stroke and water-cooled. In fact, the first water-cooled Japanese motorcycle ever built. Back in the day it was nicknamed “The Water Buffalo.” If these naysayers only knew that water-cooled machines would dominate the market a decade or two later they might not have been so critical. Continued on Page 6
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL
Pink this This past February, my family celebrated my mom’s 90th birthday. Quite an accomplishment and she was so thrilled to have reached this milestone in her extraordinary life. She and my father nurtured my artistic nature as well as my wanderlust. Early summers were spent in Ithaca, NY and, as I grew older, we ventured further away from home with trips across this country, and to England, Spain and France. When they were ‘free’ of the children, they traveled around the world and set a benchmark for my future trips, only mine would be on two wheels. During the wonderful gathering of friends and family, I spent some time catching up with my nephew-in-law Jeff. The conversation turned towards motorcycling, as he had read my last column ‘S&M Motorcycle’, and he asked me what size bike I felt most comfortable on. I gave him the Reader’s Digest of my search for the right bike that didn’t need any major manipulation to meet my needs. I told him that my Suzuki V-Strom 650 has a stock seat height of 32.7 inches, which is just a skosh too tall for my liking, but switching to the lowered seat and a tweak here and there, brought it down to a manageable height for me. We talked about the influx of smaller, lighter motorcycles marketed for new riders, riders of shorter inseam and women. I told him that the percentage of women riders in the US was on the rise – last tally was at 20%. Jeff, who is an avid outdoorsman involved in hunting and fishing, mentioned that the number of women involved in his past time was also a growing number. It seems the hunting population resembles that of the motorcyclists in that it is predominantly male, and aging, and has been de-
Page 3 clining, almost by two thirds, over the last few decades. But according to a 2016 report by the Outdoor Foundation, things are looking up as the 18-24year-olds are the fastest increasing participants and, of those, young women are participating at rates 16 percent higher than young men. These young women are seeing the same reaction as women motorcyclists. Reading through a few of the articles Jeff sent my way, here are some of the items that stood out: Morgan and Mason Baseley, twins, who, in 2012 at age 10, started a Facebook page – 2girls hunting – to encourage more girls to hit the field. Mason: “It’s important to us to make sure people know hunting isn’t just about killing, so we post a lot about conservation and Second Amendment rights, too. People are stoked to see two twin girls promoting these things.” Morgan: “We’ve learned that younger girls look up to us. So we’re hoping a new generation will see our respect and love for the outdoors, and that preserving it takes dedication.” Il Ling New, firearms instructor: “I’ve always been proud of the fact that I started teaching men first, and that when I teach women, they get the same instruction. I’m not against women-only classes, but women should know they can be as good as or better than the guys on the range or at hunting, any day.” And Ashley Rae, freelance writer and fishing nut: “I bought a boat and named her Ruby. When I take my dad or boyfriend fishing in it, other men look at them and say, “Nice boat.” The guys point at me and say, “It’s hers!” Once, while I was launching Ruby with a girlfriend, a guy asked, “Is that your daddy’s boat?” It happens. There aren’t a lot of women out launching boats by themselves—but there’s no reason there shouldn’t be.” And, lastly, Barbara Baird, outdoorswoman journalist for the past 15 years: About wearing pink: “As an apron when I’m grinding venison sausage and making bratwurst.” Advice to young outdoorswomen: “Whether you’re trying to shoot a trophy, land a fish, or break into outdoor media, work harder and sweat more, and it’ll happen for you. But you have to attack your goals with all the energy, and then some, that you can muster.” Continued on Page 6
Page 4
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS
POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HeALD
the MeticulOus Musician “Pants are overrated.” Lyle Lovett, March 3, 2019 New London, CT I’ve had a very chaotic life. It’s been grand in its way, but it’s certainly had its turbulence as well. As with most lives, there’s been light and darkness in good measure, but more than anything else it’s been unpredictable. Today I share one of the charmed aspects, and how sometimes you get nudges from the past that can be so helpful in the present when you had no idea you needed a mental refresher. Case in point: the spouse and I, along with three of her friends, braved an impending snowpocalypse to see a concert with none other than Lyle Lovett and John Hiatt, who put on an absolutely stellar evening of music and conversation in a classically restored Garde Arts Center in Connecticut. This was my first time seeing Mr. Hiatt, who was fabulous, and the first time I’ve seen Lyle in concert since the ‘90s. I met Mr. Lovett in the late ‘80s on the set of a film called DOA shot in Austin where I was in school, and I was already a fan. He was visiting the set and his friend Dennis Quaid, and I was the Camera Intern, and during a late meal I talked with Lyle a bit and found him to be as friendly and warm as he was talented (which is really saying something). Be patient, the motorcycle part is coming. Years later I was working on a film starring the amazing Julia Roberts and danged if I didn’t encounter Lyle again as he visited Ms. Roberts. Romance ensued, and there was a marriage (Lyle and Julia; I was not involved). It was at this time I discovered that Lyle was an avid motorcyclist, and low and be-
hold the story expanded when I met one of the best I’ve ever known in the motorcycle scribbling trade, one Tim Carrithers. At the time Tim was an Editor at Motorcyclist and a gentleman who’s considerable abilities as a rider were only equaled by his skills at putting experiences into words in a feature article. Oh, and he’s also a smashing bloke. Anyway, for a while, Tim went to work for Lyle handling the two-wheeled machines he took on the road with him, and in his own way was a trusted part of his “Large Band.” Tim and I became friends, and on one Honda-related bus ride in Ohio, after he returned to journalism full-time, I asked him about what kind of rider Lyle was. He passed on one of those observations that fit the subject perfectly, and Tim once again (as is his wont) captured the personality of the rider with a single anecdote. He told me Lyle had a meticulous pre-flight ritual he performed before motoring off, and in particular, Tim noticed the great precision he applied to adjusting his mirrors. Think about this for a moment: how many of us, especially when on trips, just load the bike up and head off, and at some point glance at a mirror and notice you’ve got a great shot of the third lane of traffic over instead of behind the bike. Mirrors have a tendency to get whacked by stuff when parked, probably because they stick out further than any other component and are (usually) easily altered. It’s a simple thing but so revealing, and if you devote time to this chore it makes sense to give the entire bike a real quick once-over before every mission. What brought this story back to me when I saw Lyle in concert was a moment when he paused to meticulously tune his guitar before a song, and I marveled at how carefully and perfectly he did it even though it took a bit of time. John Hiatt waited patiently, the crowd was whisper-quiet, I watched in fascination as he achieved perfect harmony with the strings and I thought about how such thoughtful adjustment was a personality trait. How perfect his mirrors must be before he rides off into the sunset like the cowboy he is, and no doubt Continued on Page 6
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
ON THE MARK MARK ByeRS
retireMent What a delightful, terrifying word. I started work just 33 years ago and now I’m faced with the fact that I’m eligible to retire. What happened? I still think of myself as a big kid (and I certainly act that way), but that WORD haunts me. It’s a simultaneous dream and nightmare, a reward and a big, scary change. Suddenly, I’m my father – a chubby, gray-haired, aging civil servant ready to live out his life on a pension. Oh…my…gawd! I should be reveling in the fact that I’m nearly able to ride anywhere I want anytime I want, to attend any gathering or rally with complete lack of regard for how much vacation I’m burning or how much work will be waiting when I get back. On the other hand, there are many changes to be made: where to live and what to do among them. I’m not a workaholic, but there’s comfort in routine: knowing there’s a place to go Monday where you know everyone, and they you. Knowing there’s a schedule to meet and meetings to make and things to be signed – there’s a sense of being NEEDED. Retirement requires letting go of the notion that you’re indispensible, that without your presence, things will go to hell in a handbasket. Maybe they will, but when you retire, it’s not your circus and not your monkey – it’s someone else’s problem…or delight. Just today, a colleague and I bemoaned the lack of upward-mobility jobs for our youngsters and I realized that my departure would create an opportunity. Maybe it’s time to turn the sandbox over to the kids. I’ve been asked if I’m going to get a “retirement job,” which seems like the ultimate oxymoron. There are a lot of things I could do – I’ve been offered
Page 5 the chance to teach the youngsters I’ve hired lately and it’s tempting. A fellow always wants to pass his kung-fu along to the next generation. But – and there’s always a “but” – that would mean a schedule and commitments and that my time still wouldn’t completely be my own. Maybe that’s required – I know people who went stir-crazy when they retired because they couldn’t think of productive ways to fill their days, who walked out the door wearing one color badge Friday only to walk back in with another color Monday. There are ways to work part-time as a professional motorcyclist, carrying cameramen and such. Then there’s writing… I’m not that self-disciplined and I’m pretty sure I’ll need to force myself into some kind of routine to avoid oozing into the recliner. Hitting the gym will be as important as hitting the road. Hitting the road (or trail) on the bicycle will be as important as hitting it on the motorcycle, maybe moreso. It’s just not fair that they make you spend sixteen years of your life going to school to prepare for a career and then suddenly, boom! you’re done. I’m not talking about the classes you take to make sure you know how to apply for Medicare and Social Security (holy shit, I just said those words in the context of talking about MYSELF). I’m talking about classes on how to be…retired. There’s no SYLLABUS, dammit! Ah, but there’s the rub – would I like it if there were? I guess I’ll need to find a happy medium: an unstructured structure if you will, something that will afford me the discipline that will keep me occupied, coupled with the freedom to spontaneously bust off a big ride if the mood strikes or a buddy calls. If I get annoying enough, Betsy may insist. I know a guy who lives in Dallas, one in Spokane, another on the Columbia River, another one who winters in Tucson, and another in Orlando. It’s a big world and while I’ve ridden on a pretty good chunk of it, there’s an enormous piece left. That haul road to the North Slope of Alaska Continued on Page 6
Page 6 Free Wheelin’
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS Continued from Page 2
Rudy’s uncle did not want it. Did Rudy? Indeed he did. Rudy has far more forbearance than I will ever posses and it did take some time but the old Water Buffalo lives and has seen the outside of the barn and the road again. If fact it spends a lot of time riding by pastures full of the less fortunate of its kind. Next time you pass by an old bike, car or truck wasting away in a field or forest slow down and take a look – you just might find something that was once the apple of some owners eye; before neglect and apathy let it rot on the vine. Some things should never be put out to pasture. POstcards FrOM the hedge
Continued from Page 4
how tuned his saddle must be when he rides his favorite horse at the end of the day as well. Such attention to detail is one reason why Lyle is a consummate singer/songwriter/entertainer, and it’s clear he applies this focus in negotiating a motorcycle. This is a great thing to keep in mind if, like me, you tend to get a tad sloppy with things when you do a certain activity for years and years. Whether it’s checking your equipment before a dive, doing your preflight inspection before firing up the Cessna, doing a once-over before you unleash the Troy-Bilt on an unsuspecting lawn or loading up the Honda for another day on the road, getting in the moment and focusing on the machine you’re about to trust with your safety is never a waste of time. I’m lucky because now, whenever I do such a ritual, I have a song in my head as well. It’s not always a Lyle Lovett tune, either. Sometimes it’s John Hiatt. Man, the dude is good. On the Mark
Continued from Page 5
beckons and I’ll have to do it while I still have the chutzpah. Hell, if Norm Smith did the Road of Bones at 78, I should be able to make the Dalton in my late 50’s, right? Maybe I can stash a bike at Byrd’s in Tucson and we can be snarky old farts together. Just thinking about that makes me feel better already. If you’re wondering, I haven’t done it yet, but it’s a lot closer than I care to admit. It’s a glorious, terrifying word and I look forward to it with a delightful trepidation.
Whatchathinkin’
Continued from Page 3
I find it amusing that the same comments and remarks by these women apply to those said and heard by women riders. If you like, you can see more about these women here: www.fieldandstream.com/photos/gallery/2016/07/seven-outdoorswomenwho-are-changing-the-face-of-hunting-and-fishing Jeff said that his sister, who shares his interests, used to have a difficult time finding gear and equipment tailored for women. There was no clothing for a woman’s figure – as he said, they all looked like tomboys out in the field. As for guns, the manufacturers’ idea of equipment for women meant – you guessed it – make it pink. Now, he said, they are taking notice and catering more to the female clientele for, as with the motorcycle industry, women are spending significant dollars. Kirstie Pike, a hardcore hunter, founded Prois Performance Apparel for women after a four-hour ride from Gunnison to Denver, CO wielded her nada because all they had to offer was ‘cotton, sexed-up, lifestyle crap that no one can actually wear for hunting.’ Since its inception in 2008, the industry has grown tremendously, as has the community of outdoorswomen. In the hardware department, things are adapting as well. Weatherby produces the Vanguard® Camilla™, which is described here: “I am a huntress who loves everything about the pursuit and will never surrender my femininity. It’s how I was made – with a form designed by women, for women. My graceful lines are befitting of the way I fit female shooters – with a shortened 13” length of pull, slender forearm, a slimmer grip, and a higher comb. Even my recoil pad is special with an ergonomic cant to nest into the way a woman’s shoulder is built. I am a huntress, and my time has come.” There have been strong, forward-thinking women involved in all manner of male-dominant endeavors for eons. As Bill Heavey, a writer for Field and Stream, mentions, the Romans had Diana, Goddess of the Hunt. Women motorcyclists have mother and daughter team Effie and Avis Hotchkiss, the Van Buren sisters, Dot Robinson, Bessie Stringfield, Gloria Tramontin-Struck and so many more moving into modern day to set examples and inspire young girls and women to follow their desires to ride, race, travel or whatever might be in their two-wheeled hearts. Sure, wear pink if it’s your thing, but know that the female contingent is moving in and up, so don’t settle for Shrink It and Pink It any longer.
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
BACKLASH Hi Brian! The February issue is great! Loved Shira’s column on downsizing & the Branchville Scarecrow festival. Brian, are you starting to feel the old clock is picking up speed, lately? We begin to sense the “Hour Glass” effect at some point in life. I find it hard to believe mine is damn near empty! You have 20 to 30 more good years to go. We have to take life one day at a time. Just what the Good Lord asked of us mortals. I know I’m preaching to the choir- forgive me. les guile Hey Brian & Shira, Nice to see you celebrate the 50th issue of TBR. It’s well conceived and executed and gives us a glimpse into your personalities as well! Thanks and keep them coming! larry
Page 7
Letters to the Editor This year the show dates are August 31-Septamber 1, but I recommend going on Saturday as I’ve found that participation drops off sharply on Sunday. So, if you and Shira should find yourselves in mid-coast Maine during Labor Day weekend in the vicinity of Rockland, I’d encourage you to attend. Another event in Maine that I’ve been attending and may interest you is the New England European M/C Rally held at the Sunday River Ski Resort near Bethel, Maine. It’s usually held the last weekend in July and there are lots of interesting roads to ride in the mountains. I enjoyed meeting and speaking with both of you and wish you continued success with the magazine. It really fills a unique niche in the industry. Regards, steve dudka
Thank you Sir... personalities? Hmmm. Oh, the deep psychosis? Well, the voices (you hear them too, right?) tell us what to publish. Shhh. They are listening. Brian, I met you and Shira at the Modern Classics Show (at Martin Motorsports) Friday evening and spoke to you briefly - you asked me to follow-up with this e-mail reminder. The Owls Head Transportation Museum (owlshead.org) has an annual vintage m/c show Labor Day weekend that I’ve been attending for several years now and find very interesting. This is not a concours show by any means, more of a “bring what you ride” show for bikes older than 25 years. The museum itself is interesting, exhibits consisting primarily of antique autos and aircraft. There’s an airshow in conjunction with the m/c show with WWI vintage aircraft, both restored and replicas. During the show, they open the flight line up to the public so you can get up close to the aircraft and examine them.
DON’T SUFFER FROM FOMO GO TO OUR FACEBOOK PAGE AND FOLLOW US FOR UP-TO-THE-MINUTE NEWS • IMPROMPTU RIDES www.facebook.com/pages/Backroads-Motorcycle-Touring-Magazine
Page 8
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS
THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD letting gO I never sold a bike that I didn’t miss later. There was that first bike, then the one that carried you across America, the one you rode through the worst storm of your life and survived together, and so on. However, I am well aware that the passage of time can shroud the memory in a fog worthy of a fall San Francisco morning. All of those machines left for a reason - be it size, different riding needs, or even rising costs. I’ve had the pleasure of owning several Japanese bikes, German and British machines and I even had a brief dalliance with an Italian mistress who I parted with before the cost of our relationship was going to cause bad feelings. We ended as good friends. Sure, I would love to keep them all but I’m already the steward for two bikes that fall into the, “do not sell unless the farm is in foreclosure” category – both having been owned by a family member since new and one that has breathed air on this earth almost as long as I have. Its parts, now refurbished, have left it looking like it could go another 50 years. Me, not so much. What I never miss is the flotsam and jetsam that goes along with the departed bikes. No matter how I hard I try to resist, eventually the credit card comes out and little by little I assemble what is very often bike specific gear to complement a new machine. The bright spot in moving along a beloved motorcycle to a happy new owner is handing over a large pile of equipment, which opens up shelf space in the garage, shed, basement and even the attic.
Jeffrey Kurtzman Over the years I have tried to keep all the equipment for each machine in one place but eventually something comes along that doesn’t fit in the prescribed box or in the space designated for that motorcycle’s gear. Years ago I would horde one or two items that belonged with a sold bike – like a serial killer with a weird trophy - only a tad less creepy. All that has done is left me with an odd bag liner or two or a luggage rack that only fits a bike made when George Bush was president. The first George Bush. Most recently, I sold a wonderful Triumph. I thought I didn’t get in too deep when it came to gear for that British bloke but as I started rooting around, I found not one but two good batteries that fit the bike. Replaced as a precaution, don’t you know? There was a large stock windshield that was exchanged for a “better” aftermarket one four or five years ago. The original item was boxed for safekeeping then left in the shed where it occasionally slid down the stack of chairs it was awkwardly perched on in order to hit me in the head. Just a little reminder in case you get tired of looking through that new and improved windshield. The scavenger hunt for Triumph parts continued as the new owner waited patiently in my driveway, ready to ride away. In the upstairs gear closet were three bike specific pannier liners; in the garage, a box containing various fasteners that were “leftover” after repairs, and some brand new parts I bought “just in case”. An extra key, some paperwork, manuals and more waited in a drawer. In the office – a bike specific tank bag. That has got to go. In the basement - a two foot wide oddly shaped brand new dash piece that the dealer provided to me after they put a little mark in the original one. The agreement was that either I would install it or he would if we ever had the bike apart. We did, and I forgot to bring the piece to the shop before the Triumph was all buttoned up. That was some five years ago as well. That dash never fell on me but over the years it has caught my eye when I tried to reposition it to make more room in the space it occupied. I opened the box many times when I could not remember what was inside only to be reminded of my failure to actually install the part. Lastly, I found a radiator guard, new in the box, that for some reason I never got around to putting on. Oddly enough, the Triumph radiator survived sans puncture for some six years. I thought I heaped everything on the new owner who stored it all in the chase vehicle. He then motored off on his new bike with the parts car following behind. Now that a few weeks have passed, I have this recurring vision of a plastic storage box marked “BMW and Triumph” parts but I can’t get a clear picture of where it is in the house. The container is a marriage of Axis and Allied powers and who knows what the conglomeration has produced over the years – if that box exists at all. I’ll be working on that mystery tonight and if I uncover the treasure, whatever is British will be packed up and sent on to the new guy. I then get to cross out the “Triumph” marking on the outside of the box. Maybe I can even downsize to a smaller container and open up some more room in a closet. So, now I have a vacant space on a basement shelf, less crap falling on my head in the shed, and an attic that only I know has been rid of a box or two. I feel liberated. But, if you look closely at the very front of my garage, in a spot that formerly housed the aforementioned Triumph “box of spare leftover fasteners”, there sits a seemingly innocuous carton. For now it is only about the size of two small stacked phone books. It recently provided safe transit for a set of new Denali auxiliary lights and now it has been repurposed. On the side of that vessel, in glaringly fresh black Sharpie, are the words “2018 BMW GSW – Take off parts”. And so it begins anew.
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
IN DU STRY INFOBITES SOMEBODY PULLED THE PLUG The Canadian company BRP has announced that it purchased a selection of assets from Alta Motors, a California-based company well known for their electric dirt bikes. Those assets include certain intellectual property, patents and some limited physical assets from the former all-electric motorcycle design and manufacturing company. For those hoping that BRP would continue with Alta’s electric progression, don’t hold your breath. According to BRP’s press release: “This is an opportunity for BRP to complement its ongoing research and development into this burgeoning area of expertise. BRP has no interest in restarting operations of Alta Motors and assumes no liabilities.”
SAFER MOTORCYCLING RESEARCH CONSORTIUM ANNOUNCED Six motorcycle manufacturers have joined together with the vision of increasing safety for on-road riders in the United States through data driven approaches and collaboration. American Honda Motor Company, BMW Motorrad, Harley-Davidson Motor Company, Indian Motorcycle Company, Kawasaki Motors Corp., U.S.A. and Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. have teamed up to form the Safer Motorcycling Research Consortium (SMRC). The Board of Directors, appointed by the founding member companies, will coordinate and facilitate pre-competitive research activities in collaboration with the interests of rel-
Page 9
News from the Inside evant federal agencies. SMRC will also include input from associate members consisting of other OEMs, motorcycle industry suppliers, and technical or scientific organizations engaged in the field of on-road motorcycle safety. The Safer Motorcycling Research Consortium is committed to increasing the safety of riders through the pursuit of meaningful pre-competitive research and advancement of modern traffic safety.
QUEBEC MAY OUTLAW MOTORCYCLES DURING WINTER Winter may not be the most convenient time to ride a motorcycle, particularly in snowy northern climates like in Canada, but it is possible, even in extremely cold temperatures. But buried within a proposed law is a provision that would ban motorcycles from the streets of Quebec completely during the winter months, according to Canada Moto Guide. Since 2008, Quebec has required that all vehicles registered in the Canadian province be equipped with snow tires rated for severe snow and winter traction between December 15 and March 15. This effectively banned motorcycles from the street, until recently. Now there are motorcycle snow tires available that meet Quebec’s winter tire qualifications, making it legal to take advantage of an unseasonably warm day and go for a ride. Even the Sûreté du Québec, the provincial police force, recommended that motorcycles equipped with proper winter tires be expressly permitted on the road during this time of year. If the bill becomes law, it wouldn’t matter what tires were on a motorcycle during the winter, it won’t be allowed on the road no matter what. Another part of the bill proposes ex-
Page 10
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS
tending the winter tire requirement, and therefore the motorcycle ban, back two weeks to begin December 1. With the advent of heated riding gear and motorcycle tires that meet all requirements for severe snow and winter traction, bikers can safely operate their machines year-round and legally comply with Quebec’s existing law… so why not let them?
MOTORCYCLES COULD COMPETE IN THE OLYMPICS Trials riding is an amazingly difficult sport requiring years of practice, peak athleticism, and incredible control, and it may soon be an Olympic-caliber sport if the International Motorcycling Federation has anything to say about it. The FIM is appealing to the International Olympic Committee to have TrialE (trials riding on electric bikes) added as a sport to the 2024 Summer Olympics, which will be held in Paris, France. If it is successful, Trial-E will be the first officially-recognized Olympic motorsport. New sports are being added to the Olympics every year. In 2020, the Tokyo Olympics will be the first time we will see baseball and softball, surfing, sports climbing, karate, and even skateboard, all officially included as Olympic sports. The current policy for inclusion of a sport, according to IOC, is that it be: youth-focused, equally accessible for men and women, sustainable, spectacular, practiced on all continents and requires no new infrastructure, so trials riding measures up to all of these requisite metrics.
RACING SAVED IN EUROPE After extensive lobbying by numerous motorsport organizations, the European Parliament has agreed to exempt bike racing from the European Union’s Motor Insurance Directive (MID, also known as Vnuk) which would have required all motorcycles to have a form of road traffic insurance, even if they were specialist vehicles not meant for the road. As no insurance of this kind is commercially available, this could have seen the end of motorcycle racing as we know it across Europe. IMCO, the European Parliament committee responsible for the MID, voted overwhelmingly in favor of exempting motorsports by a vote tally of 32 to two. During the discussion, members of IMCO adopted a report recommending excluding “vehicles intended exclusively for motorsports” as “these vehicles are generally covered by other forms of liability insurance.” There are still some legislative hurdles to overcome; including gaining the agreement of the EU Council, but a positive final verdict is expected later this year.
P RODUCT S POTLIGHT
NOSWEAT
Changing the Way the World Sweats One Helmet at a Time Summer’s coming and riding around in hot and humid weather can lead to breaking out in a sweat that interferes with your vision and comfort on the bike. Getting sweat in your eyes or having it roll down your face can throw off your whole game, ruin your makeup and is just generally annoying. NoSweat has created the first disposable performance liners for hats, helmets, hard hats and visors that absorb sweat instantly while preventing odors, stains. NoSweat thin liners simply peel and stick to the inside of headwear and feature SweatLockÔ technology engineered to instantly absorb sweat. Moisture is locked inside the liner to help prevent dripping sweat, fogging, sweat stains, acne and odor. Each NoSweat liner absorbs around 2 ounces of sweat. The liners are performance, safety and hygiene based allowing users to perform at their best, without distractions that are associated with sweating. Depending on the person and activities being performed, each liner can last anywhere from one day’s ride to two weeks of standard hat usage. The liners also preserve hats and keep the inside looking as fresh as the day it was bought. NoSweat liners are available for hats, helmets, hardhats and visors and start at $4.99 for a pack of three and $37.99 for a pack of 25. For more information and to purchase liners visit www.nosweatco.com.
You can’t turn back the clock, but you can wind it up again. ~ Bonnie Prudden
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
Page 11
Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MY STERIO U S A MER IC A the cryPt OF Prince deMetrius gallitzin aPOstle OF the alleghenies • Basilica OF saint Michael 4th street, lOrettO, Pennsylvania 814-472-8551 • www.basilicasm-loretto.org In the small western Pennsylvanian town of Loretto you will find the picturesque Basilica of Saint Michael the Archangel. In front of the stone church there is a statue of a man… Demetrius Gallitzin. He was a prince, a priest, a soon to be Catholic saint and… one of the first paranormal investigators in the world. So if you had one of the largest fortunes in Europe, what would you do with it? Demetrius Gallitzin answered that question by following a calling. Born in The Hague, Netherlands, his mother was a Germanborn woman and his father was of royal descent and an ambassador from Russia to European courts. He had been raised in the Orthodox Church, but in France he accepted the writings of Voltaire, Diderot and other Freethinkers, and sneered at religion. Young Demetrius was reared on these radical ideas. Seeing trouble on the rise in Europe, Gallitzin’s father encouraged him to study in America. He did, but not as his father had hoped or planned.
To his father’s further horror, Gallitzin became a Catholic priest in Baltimore in 1795. When Russia found that Demetrius Gallitzin had become a Catholic priest they took all his money and wealth – as Catholic priests were not allowed any real wealth in Russia; but that never deterred Gallitzin. Gallitzin, who went by the name Father Smith to keep away from his past, took over a small parish in Pennsylvania. It had only a dozen members. Gallitzin traveled, taught and worked without rest. He poured his fortune into buying lands for Catholic settlers and slogged across the Alleghenies carrying the gospel into the untamed heart of the continent. Because of this he is known as “The Apostle of the Alleghenies.” His flock grew to 10,000 people – an amazing number in those days – and he is well onto his way to becoming an American Saint. But, his story continues in an odd way… One especially colorful event in the young priest’s life came just after his ordination, when he was told to investigate and help with a bizarre Appalachian ghost haunting. The story goes that a traveler had taken ill near Harper’s Ferry and was brought to a local inn. Knowing he was going to die, he asked for a catholic priest to give him Last Rights.
Page 12 The innkeeper, a bigoted Lutheran at the time named Adam Livingston, did little to help the dying man and when he died Livingston simply buried his body and was done with the matter. But then strange and terrible things began to happen. The inn began to be visited by a strange, scissorwielding spirit. The ghost came and went, clipping half-moons and other weird patterns into fabric and clothing. Coats, shirts, bedsheets, even leather shoes were reduced to shreds. Yet only the sound of cutting could be heard. The ghost itself was never seen. For a couple of years, Livingston went almost insane, and it was said that no day went by without a visit from “The Wizard Clip.” Curious visitors came to check out the ghost. Skeptics were turned into believers when stones were flung out of the fireplace, crockery burst, and hidden garments were cut to ribbons. Nothing could be done for years…until Livingston, desperate to end the hauntings, had a dream in which he saw a man that could help him. He woke with a new mission. He went to nearby Shepherdstown and sought out a Catholic priest. To his shock and disbelief, the local priest there, an Irishman named Dennis Cahill, proved to be the man he’d seen in his dream and he agreed to visit the inn and try to help rid it of the poltergeist. Father Cahill prayed and sprinkled Holy water, but to little affect and Cahill felt he might need help so he asked his church. They sent Prince Father Demetrius Gallitzin. Gallitzin was fascinated by the story and traveled far to see for himself and do his own investigating. After three months of searching out witnesses and talking to locals he knew the story to be true and agreed to do something radical to help Livingston and the inn. Here is his testimony: “My view in coming to Virginia and remaining there three months was to investigate those extraordinary facts at Livingston’s, of which I had heard so much ... and which I could not prevail upon myself to
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS believe; but I was soon converted to a full belief of them. No lawyer in a court of justice did ever examine or cross-examine witnesses more strictly than I did all those I could procure.” Gallitzin was the Carl Kolchak of his day. Cahill and Gallitzin agreed to celebrate a Catholic mass at the inn for the soul of the dead man - something unheard of in the day. Remarkably – or maybe not – the hauntings and trouble stopped. A miracle, or simply the quieting of a restless spirit? Even more of a miracle was that Livingston converted to Catholicism and deeded 35 acres of his farm to the Catholic Church. This parcel has since been known as ‘The Priest’s Field’. In 1983, the Catholic Diocese of Wheeling-Charleston dedicated the Priest Field Pastoral Center on the site. In 1799 Gallitzin went to Loretto and founded a small church and stayed in the mountains until he passed many years later. His body lay in the earth until around 1900, when the Pittsburgh steel magnate Charles Schwab, who was raised in Loretto, paid for a large new church to be built there–as well as an elaborate statue and crypt to honor the bones of Father Gallitzin. Today, you can walk down into this tiny crypt, which sits directly underneath the statue right in front of the church. The cast-iron vault holding this wandering Russian nobleman is sometimes covered in handwritten letters – people asking and hoping for miracles of their own. His story was so important that there is even a comic book about his life – not many Catholic priests can boast that accomplishment. It is a remarkable place and a remarkable story and certainly part of Mysterious America. If you are joining us for the Spring Break this year, our route from the Penn Stater to the Wisp Resort will offer a stop at the chapel and crypt. ~ O’Life Out!
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
Page 13
G REAT ALL AMERICA N DINE R RUN shOe’s cuP and cOrk
More than just a restaurant, the place has its own bocce court in the alley next to the building, a poker room upstairs and a great Secret Garden cabana outside. The building was built nearly 140 years ago in the 1880s and has seen life as the town post office and new car dealership. In the early 1920s, Vincenzo Ranieri stopped off for lunch in Leesburg on his
17 n king street, leesBurg, va 20176 703-771-7463 • shoescupandcork.com It had been a rough half day as three of us, Shira, contributor Jeff Kurtzman and myself tried to make our way south to the town of Staunton, Virginia on the 20th annual Spring Break Rally last May. What started out as a light rain quickly grew into a tempest and along the route we had to make slight detours, with Jeff and I even having to drag a large branch that had fallen down in front of us. Emergency vehicles and first responders abounded and the weather looked as if it was never going to cut us some slack. Basically your average Backroads ride. When we finally did cross the Potomac and began to head towards the Catoctin Mountains we passed through the historic town of Leesburg, VA. Leesburg has seen plenty of action. During the War of 1812 the town served as a temporary haven for the United States Government and its archives including the Declaration of Independence and the U.S. Constitution. During the Civil War it was the site of the Battle of Ball’s Bluff – a huge Confederate victory. Leesburg was also the retirement home of George C. Marshall, architect of the famous Marshall Plan that helped re-build Europe after World War II. As you can see, Leesburg, Virginia has serious historic legs. But this day, with a happy lull in the rain, we were looking for food… and we found it at Shoe’s Cup and Cork.
tasty places to take your bike
way from Sicily to Bluemont and decided to establish his American shoe repair and hat cleaning business here. The neon SHOES sign was installed in the 1940s as a promotion for Red Goose Shoes. Instead of changing the historic sign, they named the restaurant Shoe’s. We arrived for lunch, but Shoe’s offers a superior breakfast from 7 to 11. Some of the early day dishes to be found are a Hunter Scramble – Scrambled eggs, with bacon and cheddar that can come with avocado slices and another called
Page 14
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS
the Gatherer which has roasted zucchini, mushrooms, onions and red peppers topped with avocado. Other egg dishes abound and they really seem to like avocados. The lunch menu was varied, running from an easy meal to an almost sit down dining experience with pan seared salmon, flank steak and vegetarian pasta. The appetizers looked tasty with hummus, spinach dip, parmesan truffle fries and Little Red Bocce Balls – tiny, but delicious meatballs braised in marinara. A pickle plate? Yes! We kept it simple with salads and sandwiches this day. Shoe’s Cup and Cork offers seven different salads – all that can be pumped up with roasted chicken, smoked or seared salmon.. and avocado. The homemade chicken salad look tempting as it was brought by to another table, as did the roasted butternut squash. I spotted a kale and quinoa salad, with hazel nuts and dates – but felt if I had that I might trade in my BMW for a bicycle for the rest of the tour. They had a few burgers – which we know first hand, are first rate. The roasted chicken panini was walked by on its way to the table next to us as was one of their smoked salmon melts. There was a black bean and quinoa burger, that came with what you’d expect but with an ancho garlic aioli. The aioli intrigued me, but it was black bean and quinoa – so I quickly dismissed it. Remarkably I went for the avocado chicken club sandwich that had….avocado (which Shira tells me is healthy and my friend Tony says is the Devil’s own fruit) chicken, arugula, tomato, ranch, bacon and red onion and it was served on a fantastic sourdough bread. It worked for me and I felt very healthy and happy – until we saw it was once again pouring outside. Such is life. Shoe’s Cup and Cork was a great find and a welcome port of call on that stormy day.
Come Ride the Dragon Deals Gap 318 Curves in 11 Miles
www.dealsgap.com 800.889.5550 17548 Tapoco Road, Robbinsville, NC 28771
Deals Gap Store Motel Bar and Grill
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
Page 15
Frontline Eurosports Presents
B IG CITY GETAWAY graFtOn histOrical sOciety MuseuM 147 Main street, graFtOn, vt 05146 802-843-2584 • www.graftonhistoricalsociety.com I looked at the wooden bust of Thayendanegea, the carved image of the man also known as Joseph Brant, who seemed to stare back at me. It was a beautiful work… but for me, a child of the land between the Delaware and Hudson Valleys I wondered what an Iroquois military leader and British loyalist who reeked havoc along the regions of the Mohawk Valley, southern New York, and northern Pennsylvania (he was a demon along what would become Port Jervis, the Hawk’s Nest and Route 97) was doing in Vermont. We were moseying along on our Summer Squeeze, and had stopped in at the Grafton Historical Society Museum, in Grafton, Vermont. A small, but full museum – it has a unique mission best said here: “The Grafton Historical Society was organized on August 2, 1962 to keep alive the memory of sturdy men and women who turned a wilderness into a heritage of which the people of Grafton are proud and to pass on the knowledge of that heritage to succeeding generations.” - Helen Pettengill The museum features not only local history, but local art works as well – thus the phenomenal bust of Joseph Brant created by Grafton native Joe Lupiani. Outside the museum you will find Wall of Circles by Oliver Schemm – and a couple of drumsticks as this is part art and part percussion. There was a large display of local soapstone items and art. Soapstone is still a popular building stone, often used for counter-tops, washbasins, and
daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind old-fashioned soapstone sinks. Valuable soapstone quarries have been worked in New England since the early nineteenth century and Grafton was known for this, having a number of soapstone quarries where the metamorphic rock was easily harvested.
There were displays of local handcraft and sewing as well as a display of classic furniture from the old Phelps Hotel. There is Civil War history to be found and a very, very interesting display of the Turner Family – the only free black family in the town for many years after the war. Most famous now as a storyteller, Daisy Turner, her parents, and her brothers and sisters were well known and liked members of the Grafton community. Daisy herself is remembered fondly by those who spent childhood days playing on Turner Hill, as well as with guarded respect by those whose most vivid recollections include seeing her sitting on the front porch of her village home glaring at
Page 16
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS
passerby as she held a shotgun casually on her lap. The video of the 102 year-old Miss Daisy Turner and her stories were fascinating and just a pleasure to hear Daisy tell stories in such a unique and enthralling way. This, alone, makes a stop by the Grafton Historical Society worthy. Stepping into the back barn you will find all sorts of memorabilia tools and things of oddities like a wooden peg leg from the War Between the States and a plethora of simple, but useful tools, fire fighting apparatus, baby buggies and lanterns. We kept getting dragged back to the hand tools that we wish we could
have for ourselves. Just because something is old and hand-powered does not make it obsolete – it makes it useful in the right situation. It is small local museums that are kept up and operated by people with passion for keeping local history and lore alive that make for the best exploring. If it is the weekend and getting around dinnertime, or you are looking for a place to stay, check out the Grafton Inn which offers superior accommodations as well as great food. Located in the main inn, the Old Tavern Restaurant puts the taste of Vermont right at your fingertips. Chef Cal Hingston and his team proudly offer you the freshest local ingredients prepared in small batches to ensure the highest quality. As a farm-to-table restaurant, all of their ingredients are sourced from local and sustainable purveyors throughout New England. The Grafton Historical Society Museum is open Memorial Day though Columbus Day and Saturday and Sundays and to get you there we will offer you a ride with a bit of old-time flavor. Yes kids, we are talking about putting a little Vermont gravel in your 125-mile loop travel. So, if unpaved roads get you excited join us. If they give you the willies – then you can plot your own ride to Grafton. Either way – enjoy! Download GPS file here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/tp429i
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
WE’RE OUTTA HER E
Page 17
a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads
sPring Break 2019 Lions, and Coasters, and amish - oh my! Every month this column will point your bikes to some excellent inns, lodges, B & Bs and the occasional grand hotel. In our minds it is hard to top a few days on the road with your honey or with a bunch of friends. This month we are sending you a personal invite. Yes, you. Not the thousands of others that are reading this magazine – but especially to you. You see we have these little get-togethers for our readers. Small rallies held around the eastern parts of the United States. Our Spring Break, Summer Squeeze and Fall Fiesta. We keep them on the small side, as we are not trying to be something we are not. You want huge? Go to Americade, Sturgis or the BMW National. If you like smaller gatherings, with a marvelous crowd of like-minded riders, then consider riding along with us. The price? Free. When do you hear that these days? Right. Never! In fact, Backroads has held more rallies, rides, and events than any other riding publication in the nation (perhaps the planet and universe as we know it), and this event, which we invite you to, will be our 67th gathering and, although many have been generous with donations to different causes, the rides and fun have always been free. So, let us tell you what we’ll be doing come the third weekend in May. Actually the 21st Annual Spring Break, which we are calling “Lions, and Coasters, and Amish – Oh My!” will start on Thursday, May 16th and we will be gathering at the Penn Stater Hotel, in State College, Pennsylvania. The hotel is a beauty and has two restaurants, a lap pool and shuttles into town if you are looking to explore off the bike.
We will have a long day’s ride (280 miles), created in a .GPX file for you GPS owners, from the Forklift Café in Dingmans Ferry, PA on Route 739, along with some seriously fun and twisty backroads or you can take a more direct route to the hotel, get there early and enjoy the town and Penn State - home of the Nittany Lions and the best ice cream around! Our next day will offer two separate routes to our ‘Big Stop’ on this Spring Break, the fabulous Wisp Resort on the north shore of Deep Creek Lake – the largest lake in Maryland. We have been here before and are happy to return for the next two evenings. The hotel has a number of restaurants, an indoor heated pool, a fitness center and… they have a freakin’ Mountain Coaster! The Mountain Coaster is a gravitational hybrid of an Alpine Slide and a Roller Coaster boasting a 1,300-foot uphill track while twisting, turning, dipping and rolling for 3,500 feet downhill over 350 vertical feet on the eastern side of Wisp Mountain. You can go solo or two up and you are in control. We hope. If that is not enough adrenaline for you maybe you will opt for ‘The Spider Monkey Adventure.’ We don’t want to go into this too much, but it involves helmets,
harnesses and release forms, which Gary Danger, Backroads’ consigliere, will happily read through for us. What could possibly go wrong? But, as much fun as The Wisp is, we did come here to ride and we will have a number of routes from which you can choose. One will go to a Palace of Gold, the other along the National Road – the first highway in the nation, another will look at travels & tribulations and the last will simply try to hit every curvy road we could find in the region.
Page 18
On Sunday our journey will take us north and east, crossing into Pennsylvania on one of the most interesting ‘toll bridges’ you have ever seen. We mosey along the Mason / Dixon Line before visiting a monument of one President’s birthplace that is just a bit different and then lunch. We’ll continue riding east and then around a very… clandestine place. You first see the barbed wire and ‘US Gov. Keep Out’ signs and get the feeling that maybe they don’t want you to stop along this road. Indeed. This is the infamous Site R – Raven Rock as featured in our series called “Don’t Go There” in Mysterious America. Site R is a huge underground nuclear bunker near Blue Ridge Summit, Pennsylvania, at Raven Rock Mountain that has been called an “underground Pentagon,” with good reason. From here we will wind across some neat Keystone state backroads, across the Susquehanna River and into Bird-in-Hand and our final hotel for Spring Break 2019 - The Amish View. The next day you can either scoot home or follow
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS
along with us to the Antique Automobile Club of America Museum in Hershey that will have just opened their long-awaited exhibit on Harley-Davidson - The History, Mythology, and Perceptions of America’s Motorcycle! From there we will meander north and be back at the Delaware Water Gap by mid-afternoon. We hope this whets your appetite for the upcoming season and we hope you decide to join or, if you have been with us before, decide to come back. All are welcome and we hope to see you on the road in May! For full details and information to book your rooms, visit our rally website: www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html
Time flies. It’s up to you to be the navigator. ~ Robert Orben
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
Page 19 We arrived on a slightly damp day, on the heels of Hurricane Michael, and were welcome by Jim and Tess. I expected to see a very nice collection of all things BMW. What we walked into was the greatest private collection for, not just BMW, but anything I have ever seen. It was…. brilliantly magnificent! Inside we found that Jim had converted part of his home and a totally refurbished finished garage – really big garage – to hold the most amazing personal gathering of Bavarian Motor Works motorcycles,
People collect all sorts of things and we recently featured some of the odder things that folks feel they need to collect. But, there are some special men and women who excel not only in amassing a stupendous collection, but displaying it as well. In the town of Clarksville, Maryland, along a road lined with stunning homes, is one that, for BMW enthusiasts, is truly remarkable for what it holds inside - and it belongs to Jim and Tess Hopkins. Shira and Jim were having a back and forth about us getting down to see The Hopkins Collection. For many years we had heard how unique and wonderful his assemblage was of Bayerische Motoren Werke history and memorabilia. Jim Hopkins is really on a mission – but it is a true labor of love. On his website it says: ‘The collections were created to preserve the history of BMW motorcycles and honor the men, women, and families throughout history who rode, raced, and enjoyed these extraordinary machines.’
memorabilia, art, advertising items, rare autographs, and race memorabilia, as well as one of the largest collections of original, vintage BMW motorcycle photographs in the United States. One of the things that jumped out, and so many things did, was a painting by the late Denis Sire. Known as Le Baron d’Holbach, the painting was beautiful and the actual machine that highlights the art sits below the painting.
Page 20
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS The more you looked, the more you see – and it was all made better by Jim pointing out and explaining everything. Jim Hopkins’ passion and love of his incredible collection is obvious and strong. There were things I recognized and artifacts and historic pieces that I had no idea existed, but I do now. If you truly love BMW motorcycles, or just motorcycles in general, then a visit to The Hopkins Collection BMW Museum must be in order. The catch is that this is a ‘private’ collection, in the Hopkins home, so arrangements must be made in advance; but if you have a small group and would like to visit the Hopkins Collection BMW Museum then contact Jim via his website or by email at hawkstooth@verizon.net and we’re sure he will do his best to accommodate you.
www.hopkinsbmwmuseum.com
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
Page 21
The Law Office of Paul G. Gargiulo Presents
Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival
Night Rider Don Gomo • Empire State MC Safety Ed Program Let’s get this off the table to start with - we will not be talking about David Hasselhoff, sorry if you happen to be a fan. In fact we are going to take a look at the dark side of riding, without any discussion about the force; we’ll be reviewing riding at night. OK I’ll try to keep Star Wars out of this too. Seems there may be just as many riders who have a bit of fear towards night riding compared to those who try to avoid riding in the rain. As with everything else, a lot has to do with how we approach this and being a little better prepared and educated. Riding at night can offer enjoyable aspects such as a little serenity with the silence of the darkened, open summer sky or even excitement and energy by taking in the lights and sounds of a busy urban strip; but as with many things with motorcycling, there are always risks to be aware of and hopefully avoid. The first and foremost reason for any hazard associated with riding at night - it’s dark. With the loss of light there is obviously a reduction in visual capability; not only for you, but those sharing the road. Even before you get started, consider how well your night vision really is. Some things that happen as we get older include reduction of vision in general, which in turn affects your night vision. Some folks experience extended “starring” from other vehicle headlights, combine that with possible delayed reaction time for the vision issue and it can turn out to be something unexpected and unwanted. If your night vision is minimal, then planning around not riding in the dark may be a better option; but if you do there are options to be safer. These days the abundance of high tech LED primary and auxiliary lighting for both front and rear can be a major benefit for visual recognition, again for both you and others. Certainly cost may be a factor for some, especially if riding at night is not part of one’s normal road activity; but that cost could be a big saver for your own well being or property (aka - your motorcycle). OK, spending a ton of dough may not work for you; yet fear not, you do have alternatives to help protect yourself. When rolling with the night crickets, consider wearing high reflective gear or a vest, even bright colored gear; black certainly has no noticeable value
in the dark. There are even options for reflective tape that can be placed strategically on your bike or helmet to make you more visible to others. With the overall thought process or strategy to riding that includes to SEE (Search Evaluate Execute) and be seen, doing whatever we can at night will do good to us overall. Use whatever available lighting around you that you can, if you are riding in city conditions, try to avoid darker streets. If in rural areas, use the lighting of other vehicles when available to give you more visual clues. Even a car’s taillights can help you. If you are following a vehicle and see the rear lights go up and down it could be indicating a dip, pothole or some other road hazard ahead. Try to know your riding area; looking for turn offs, street names, etc. in an unfamiliar place can interject some distracted measures. Being mentally sidetracked while dealing with the risks with riding at night can result in a bad combination. Along with hazards of road conditions, other vehicles or traffic, depending on your location, wildlife can also add to the risk factor. Many animals are nocturnal and can become apparent in your headlights way too quickly. With that though, do not override your headlights. That means - watch your speed. For instance, if your headlight shines 100’ ahead of you, but the speed your traveling winds up needing 150’ to stop because of your perception (available vision), reaction time and braking distance, that little Bambi that suddenly shows up in the light can become a big problem for you and your bike. Simple step to take into account when riding at night - slow down. This thought works well during the day too. So we only touched on a few issues that come with riding in the wave of darkness, but it doesn’t have to be a bad thing. Respect the issues that can cause harm and adjust for them. Do everything to see as much as you can; whether it be additional lighting, use of any lighting around you, even having your vision checked to be sure you are seeing what you can clearly. At the same time, do what you can for others to see you the best they can. Driver’s first response when involved in a crash with a motorcyclist is “I didn’t see him/her” adding a cloak of darkness definitely does not make things better. Yes riding at night positively has its added level of risks, but at times can be enjoyable. Do not let your fear of it get the best of you and if you do venture out into the dark side, may the force be with you. Sorry about that, fell into my own corny trap - Be safe out there!
Join Us in 2019
Patagonia, Peru, Bolivia Argentina and more! Visit our website for 2019 tour dates Ride through Bolivia, Peru and Argentina. Visit the full range of our beautiful and enchanting places and see our lakes, other-worldly deserts, Independent touring or guided tours with multilingual guide, mechanic and support vehicle. 17 Years organizing tours and BMW rentals. 80 motorcycles in fleet. World’s 2nd Largest BMW Travel Partner and Official BMW Dealer
the dramatic Andes, snow-covered volcanoes and, of course, the magic world of Patagonia.
email info@motoaventura.cl web www.motoaventura.cl
Page 22
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS
MOO MOO’s creaMery 32 West street, cOld sPring, ny 845-554-3666 • moomooscreamery.com Riding along the Hudson River, whether on the east or west side, is a pleasure in any season. Autumn brings the brilliant colors and cool temps to enjoy the day. Summer offers long sunny days in the saddle to explore the little roads that spider web off Routes 9, 9D or 9W. With the coming of Spring comes the awakening of the riding season as well as the rest of nature. Trees are budding, flowers are pushing through their long winter’s rest and one can hear the churning of the ice cream machines that have been dormant for so many months. Such is the case with Moo Moo’s Creamery in Cold Spring, NY. We had stopped by late in the season and, much to my dismay, they had already shuttered their ice cream cases for the season. We had been out all day doing research for a story on the New York City water system and I was very much looking forward to, as they describe, ‘the World’s Best Ice Cream!’ My ultimate experience would have to wait for another day, much to my chagrin. Not to worry, I will return once they open for the 2019 season and see if what they claim is true. They certainly are mighty tall words to live up to, and I look forward to them being true. In the mean time, I’ll give you a little background and you can go see for yourself, as Cold Spring and the surrounding areas offer much to entertain on a day’s ride. Cold Spring sits at the deepest point of the Hudson River, directly across from West Point, and was the home of the West Point Foundry. Established in 1818 to supply the U.S. government with artillery, the ironworks employed hundreds of workers who produced some of America’s first steam engines, locomotives and ironclad ships. The foundry ceased operations in 1911, and nature reclaimed the land, but today you can wander trails with interpretive features telling the story of the Foundry and its contributions to America’s Industrial Revolution. You can work up an appetite for some ice cream or walk it off afterwards while enjoying some history.
Another rite of Spring in this area is the Bear Mountain Cruise Night, taking place Wednesdays from 6-9pm Each week, weather permitting, with hundreds of classic cars, and some motorcycles, on view. Stop in for an early dinner at the Barnstormer BBQ in Fort Montgomery, just up the road from Bear Mountain, hit the cruise night for a bit and head to Cold Spring for an ice cream before heading home. I can’t think of a better way to spend a summer’s evening.
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
P RODUCT S POTLIGHT
MICHELIN ANAKEE ADVENTURE TIRES The new MICHELIN Anakee Adventure joins the French firm’s trail catalog alongside the existing Michelin Road 5 Trail (for 100% road use) and Michelin Anakee Wild (50% road / 50% off-road). The Anakee Adventure Tires are the latest addition to the range and are
A little about Moo Moo’s ice cream to whet your appetite: all of their many, many flavors are made on premise daily in small batches, with 16 being rotated each day. Looking at their very long list of flavors, here are a couple that piqued my interest – Cinnabutter Pecan Spice, Butterscotch Toffee Crumble, Guinness Chocolate Covered Pretzel, Pomegranate, shortbread Cookie Cream and WalNutella. Moo Moo’s is on the ‘quiet’ side of Cold Spring, so parking is a bit easier. The shop has a large porch out front so you can savor your sundae while watching the people pass by. There is a park across the street – why not take your ice cream for a walk and watch the boaters, kayakers and other water creatures as they navigate on the Hudson. Whether you stop in during your day’s ride or make Cold Spring your destination, it sounds like Moo Moo’s Creamery will not disappoint – I know I’m looking forward to it.
Page 23 designed for 80% road use and 20% trail use, perfect for most riders of today’s larger ADV machines. In fact, these tires will come standard on all new BMW R1250GS machines. Michelin says the Anakee Adventure will show exceptional grip on wet roads due to its new generation silica-enhanced compound. The previous tires – the Anakee 3 were, in our opinion, one of the best rain tires on the planet (too good in one instance), so we think these new Adventure tires will be superior rubber indeed. These tires also combine outstanding performance in dry weather with stability and resistance to wear thanks to two Michelin-patented technologies: Michelin’s Dual Compound 2CT and Dual Compound 2CT+. Meanwhile, its new and different, open tread pattern provides the necessary traction when straying onto gravel roads and trails. Look for our long-term test later this year that will include hard riding on street, trails and track.
Page 24
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS
Day-Tripping Around
Costa del Sol words and images: Kimi Ceridon y husband and I were greeted by overcast skies and a pleasant 60°F as we exited the airport in Málaga Spain. It was a welcome reprieve from the previous four days spent in Oslo’s subzero, icy conditions. Since we crossed the pond to visit my Norwegian in-laws for the holidays, I decided to tack a fairer weather motorcycling adventure onto our trip. Southern Spain was the southernmost europe destination with reasonably priced airfare and lodging. So, we headed to Costa del Sol – “The Coast of the Sun” – for a winter riding retreat.
M
I’ll be honest; I knew very little about Andalusia. It is the region of Spain spanning from Portugal to Cala Cerrada along the Mediterranean Coast to the south and the mountain ranges Sierra Morena and Cordillera Bética to the north, encompassing the cities of Sevilla, Málaga, Córdoba, and Granada. It is a geographically diverse region with pine-forested mountains, arid plains and lowlands, irrigated farmland and sparkling beaches. It is also a region chock-full of early civilization historical sites. The name, Andalusia, comes from the Moors who were early inhabitants of the al-Andalus region. They built magnificent fortresses, bridges and other architecture throughout the region. Given the number of cities to visit, historical sites to see and the impressive diversity of the terrain in Andalusia, it seemed our last-
minute reservations were perfect for six days of motorcycling bliss. Hispania Tours, a BMW Motorrad Partner, picked us up at Málaga Airport. Although they offered guided and self-guided regional tours, we decided to carve out our own six-day adventure. I consulted a Michelin Road Map and a few online motorcycle route-planning websites before settling on a single house rental for the duration of the trip. The map’s scenic roads were colored green, and they suggested that motorcycle routes were spread out like strands of spiderweb all over the region. even without taking a big 1400-km circle tour of Andalusia there was no shortage or good riding roads in every direction. We based ourselves in the town of Alhaurín de Grande, which is a small town in the foothills of the Baetic Cordillera 30 minutes northwest of Málaga by the highway. From here, we had quick access to small twisty mountain roads, bigger sweepers and highways to cities. Our rental Finca (small ranch house) had a gated driveway and a big deck for lazing away post-ride evenings. Since the nights were cool and we didn’t bring heated gear, we decided our days would consist of leisurely breakfasts and later starts to allow time for the sun to warm the air. Then, we’d ride until we reached a destination for a big Spanish midday meal, la comida, which typically doesn’t start until noon. After a late lunch, we’d get back to our Finca around sunset and enjoy a homecooked meal accompanied by a glass or two of Spanish wine. We unpacked our suitcases, loaded up our bikes and hit the road, but not before the wise advice of Sebastian at the rental agency, “Rotaries are really slick, so don’t lean into them.” Naturally, we hit the first rotary a mere 600 meters from their garage. So much for a “get familiar with your new ride” period. After carefully (and successfully, I might add) taking on the not-re-
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
Page 25 Ronda, we ran into heavy crosswinds. It was mentally exhausting to be on a rental bike on these roads, but it was also a way to quickly get to know the bike. After riding the nearly empty roads to Ronda, it was a bit jarring to enter the city and navigate masses of pedestrians and cars. It was the last Sunday before Christmas, and it seemed everyone thought lunch in Ronda was a great idea. Parking was a challenge. We weren’t yet initiated in the local custom of two-wheeled parking vehicles on any patch of open sidewalk in a square. Fried from the morning, we devoured a plate of local sausages and a pretty heavy lunch before realizing we wouldn’t get back to Alhaurín de Grande before dark. We went straight south out of Ronda toward Marbella on some fun mountain roads before joining scenic A-397. Although A-397 offered some spectacular sweepers, it is also the main route between Marbella and Ronda, so traffic kept us light on the throttle. That might have been better for me, as the morning ride and big lunch left me a bit foggy.
ally-that-slick rotary, we started out stocking up on provisions. I’ll get to the riding in a second, but as a chef and food scholar, I just want to take a moment to admire Spanish grocery stores. Most of them have a section and counter dedicated to ham. Not vacuum-packed, briny, wet-cured city hams but rather dry-cured, uncooked whole legs of pigs hanging from floor racks, wall hooks and stacked on counters. Ham options ranged from the highest quality Ibérico de Bellota to the “ordinary” Serrano. And ham was not the only delicacy to be had, there is a huge selection of sausage (such as chorizo, morcilla, sobrassada, allchichón, longaniza), and cheese (such as Manchego, Mahón, Payoyo, Queso de Cabra), as well as preserved peppers and olives by the bucketful. Of course, one probably should not survive six days on cured meat, cheese and condiments alone. For that, there is wine and cava for as little as 1 Euro (US $1.15) per bottle, and this was not swill to drink. There was also no short supply of quality meat, colorful produce and, of course, winter oranges. I digress. I am here to talk about motorcycle riding. But I am gonna talk about food a little more between days on the curves. Since we didn’t do much route planning ahead of time, we decided to head for one of the most photographed tourist attractions in the region, Puente Nuevo Bridge in Ronda. It is a 217-foot long marvel that crosses 390-feet above the Guadalevín River in the Cordillera Bética Mountains. We mapped out a curvy route and headed north. A mapping mishap sent us onto an unpaved road before we got back on track at Álora where we were immediately hitting tight, mountainous twisties to Carratraca. During the last stretch to
We started day two a little less ambitiously than the first. It was New Year’s Eve, and we knew we wanted to be off the roads before dark. After a leisurely morning getting NYE supplies, we decided to warm ourselves with a little beach sunshine and a pan of Paella in Torremolinos. The boquerones, marinated and fried anchovies, were the real star of the meal.
Page 26 From there, we headed straight north out of Málaga on the impressive A7000 toward Colmenar. When we looked at the map for this road, the two overlapping loops bordering Parque Natural Montes de Málaga were too intriguing to miss. On the map, they made no sense, but on the road, they were spiraling loops with a tunnel in the middle. From Colmenar, we made a long loop through Mondron, Trapiche, Benamargosa, and Moclinejo before opting for a highway run where we gazed at an electric pink on blue ink sunset.
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS We toyed with the idea of taking two days to ride to Granada, tour the famous Moorish Alhambra and then ride back. It would have been mostly highway miles. When we found there were no online tickets left for the next three weeks, the decision was made for us. So, we decided to pick off as many of the zippy mountain roads near us as we could. So, day three took us on a squiggly loop through Álora, Antequera, Almogía, and Cártama including a ride through El Chorro near the Guadalhorce Dam. The road goes right next to the reservoir through a stunning limestone-
lined gorge. High above the reservoir surface is an insane suspended footpath and bridge called the Caminito del Rey de Ardales. Good thing we were on a much safer adventure on motorcycles. In Antequera, we naturally indulged in another plate of Iberico hams but, this time, we got to sample Moroccan dishes which can be found all over this region. How could I say no to a meat pie stuffed with pigeon and apricots anyway? Unfortunately, our best-laid plans to get back before dark again were foiled by slow service at lunch, which is the norm. Going into January 2, we had this theory that since it was probably the first day back to work after the holidays, it would be a good day to check out the tourist sites of Málaga. We started with a short loop east of the
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
city through Totalán, Colmenar and Casabermeja. Although we hit some of the same towns as days earlier, we still hadn’t traversed the same roads. Each day was a new chance to bop in and out of mountains on tight, sharp curves with spectacular mountain views. Our theory about holiday crowds thinning out turned out to be wrong. Although we hadn’t been in the city before the holidays for comparison, there were still crowds aplenty. It was an all senses alive ride through the narrow city streets. We made several miscalculations finding parking mostly because there are so many two-wheeled vehicles – scooters, small-engine motorcycles, and regular motorcycles – that it was impossible to squeeze our luggage-laden behemoths in-between them. Our patience paid off as we scored a sweet spot right below two Moorish fortresses, Alcazaba and Castillo Gibralfaro.
Page 27
Naturally, before we could tour the sites, we went straight to the Mercado Central de Atarazanas, a sprawling open-air market in central Málaga. It was an awesome display of Spanish bounty; ham hanging from hooks. Cheese stacked high above counter tops. Display cases containing giant bowls of Lomo de Manteca (marinated pork loin preserved in lard). Fresh fish and meats prepared by butchers. Vegetables piled in baskets — vendors with a variety of olives, nuts, and preserved fruits. We managed to find an open spot among the tall tables that were packed into space on the sidewalk in front of the market. We reveled in the life of the city. While watching scooters and motorcycles navigate the massive mo-
Page 28
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS torcycle parking area in front of the market we snacked on boquerones, Berenjenas con Miel (fried eggplant with honey), sausages and cheeses, Marcona almonds, and skewered shrimp. We were now ready to tour the fortress, which includes a steep walk between the two. It was good to stretch our legs after four days of riding. Day five was our last full day of riding, so we decided to revisit a few good stretches. This time, we took A397 north from Marbella. The road was still busy, but after passing a tourist bus, we got in a few good stretches along the big sweepers. Then we cut off onto the smaller mountain roads for some fun technical riding before landing in Juzcar. Most villages in the mountains are referred to as Pueblos Blancos because all the buildings are painted white. In Juzcar, all the buildings are painted blue, smurf blue to be exact. The Smurfs are known as Pitufos in Spanish, but the entire town
embraces its Smurfiness with Smurf murals, a mushroom building, and an 8-foot tall Papa Smurf greeting visitors. From Juzcar, we skirted Ronda and headed out on A-366. We stopped for the views at Mirador del Guarda Forestal before getting back to Alhaurín de Grande. Before returning our bikes on the last day, we took one last ride looping around Álora via A-7277. Although we rode A-7277 on day one, I had little
recollection of it. It was one of the only roads we encountered during our entire trip that needed repair. No potholes or anything like that, it just needed some resurfacing. We rode the opposite direction through El Chorro to get another view of the hikers high above the reservoir.
Although we only covered a small portion of Andalucia, we thoroughly explored the many exceptional motorcycling roads in the region. Rather than logging miles doing a multi-day tour to places like Cádiz, Seville, and Granada, we exhausted the Michelin Road Map’s green roads within 3-4 hours of Alhaurín de Grande. It was magnificent. Back at Hispania, we were greeted with a beer and congratulations. Kimi Ceridon is a freelance writer and culinary scholar in Massachusetts. Follow her adventures at noreturnticket.kceridon.com
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
P RODUCT R EVIEW
Page 29
GORDON’S HEATED CLOTHING
You may know them as Gerbing’s Heated Clothing, from back in the 1970’s, when Gordon Gerbing started his heated clothing line from his machine shop in Seattle, WA. Sprung from the need of his employees who rode their motorcycles to work all year round, no matter the winter weather in that part of the country, Gordon wanted them to be warm and safe. His initial attempt was to wire motorcycle clothing with heating pads and connect the pads to the bike’s electrical system. Thus the heated jacket liner was invented. Over the years, and much time spent doing the motorcycle show and rally circuit, the Gerbing family grew this hobby into a full-time business. With the continued increase of electrical output from newer motorcycles, the heated clothing industry grew and all but the smallest motorcycles were able to take advantage of heated gear. Today, after the Gerbing family lost the company following Gordon’s medical crisis, they are back with Gordon’s Heated Clothing. They continue with their goal to make a quality product and to keep motorcyclists warm throughout the entire year. I have been wearing Gerbing heated gear for most of my riding life. I have seen the iterations of the line, from the crinkly jacket with hot spots to the more supple and evenly heated liner. The new version, from the original Gordon family business, follows the development forward. The liner is constructed of a soft nylon shell with thin, flexible carbon fiber heating wires and heating pads on the chest, back, collar and sleeves, surrounding you in warmth. It heats up almost immediately upon turning on the controller. There are pockets inside and out, with zippered pockets for the glove plugs when not in use. The bottom of the liner also has a zippered pocket to store the connections for the glove and pant plugs when not in use. The liner itself is form fitting to fit snugly under your
riding gear. Rather than ordering a specific size, you are asked for your measurements (chest, arms, height and weight) and they will determine what will fit you best. Chest range is 38-54 inches, arms are 32-38. Should you fall outside of these dimensions, they will custom make your gear for an additional charge. The base price of the jacket liner is $329. The gloves, made in conjunction with the Churchill glove company, are crafted from deer hide that is beautifully soft and supple, are extremely well constructed and available in both a classic and gauntlet version. The same carbon fiber heating wires line the gloves and are not noticeable at all. They are lined with Thinsulate and a breathable Sympatex membrane for their water resistance. I did give them a good coating of bee’s wax to help them in that fight. I chose the gauntlet and was amazed at the length of it. I tend to wear my gloves tucked in to my riding suit sleeve as I ALWAYS have difficulty getting them to fit over, but with the Gordon’s gauntlet version and their extra width and length, there was not issue at all. The Velcro cinch tightened them up nicely so no cold air leaked in. The connection from liner to gloves does not interfere or bulk up at the end of the sleeve. Once switched on, they heated immediately and fully. The gloves are available in black and, as the Gordon’s website states, ‘a variety of engaging colors’ with price starting at $229. When ordering either, or both, of the Gordon’s heated clothing, you are sent all wiring and connections needed to make them work. The controller, Continued on Next Page
Page 30
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS
which sells separately for $119, has a dual setting for both liner and gloves. It is large (perhaps a bit too large for my taste) with rocker arms that offer 5 clicks from off to full heat with a digital design that draws only the requested level of power. I felt the connector wire for the bike and jacket was just a tad
too short, but that was specific to my motorcycle. There is also a leather case with a clip to attach to whatever is most convenient for your use. All of these products are American made and available through Gordon’s Heated Clothing website (gordonsheated.com) or at various motorcycle rallies around the country.
MOTORCYCLE TRAILER RENTALS & SALES
BARN TRAILER RENTALS 718-426-7039 • www.BarnTruckRental.com OPEN & ENCLOSED TRAILERS FLATBED TRAILERS • CAR HAULERS HITCH INSTALLATIONS
5705 Broadway • Woodside NY 11377 (OFF THE BQE & LIE)
P RODUCT S POTLIGHT
AEROSTICH MINI COMPRESSOR This is one of the smallest and lightest compressors you can find, and the most efficient you’ll find for its size. This stripped-down mini will fit the palm of your hand and will inflate any motorcycle tire in a couple of minutes. Why deal with a larger compressor that is way too much bulk to easily carry along or a bunch of onetime use CO2 cartridges. The Aerostich Mini Compressor will deliver continuous pressure without fail. What it lacks in beauty, it makes up for in performance – which is what you really need when you’re flat stranded in the middle of nowhere. It features long 26” inflator hose, 6’ power cord, and packs small in included storage sack. Comes with three adaptors: SAE, cigarette lighter and alligator clips. It’s easy to use lock-down delivery valve fits all bikes. And it also comes with carabiner clip, so you can attach the compressor to whatever you want out of the way and off the ground, instead of having it lay in the mud or dirt. Simple, compact, and dependable peace of mind. The pump is 3.5”×3.5”×.9” and packs to 7”×5”×3”, 1.3 lb. The Aerostich Mini Compressor sells for just $50 from aerostich.com.
WHERE CAN YOU GET ALL THIS AND SO MUCH MORE
IN ONE PLACE?
MOTORCYCLE MADNESS
www.MadMotorcycle.com
MOTORCYCLE MADNESS Where you WON’T get lost in cyberspace Where you’ll find REAL, LIVE HUMAN BEINGS SEE • FEEL • TRY ON • Get it RIGHT the first time Trained Mechanics to actually WORK on your bike 8 State Hwy 94 • Lafayette, NJ • 973-579-6088 • 877-252-9828
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
P RODUCT R EVIEW
SRC HEADLIGHT GUARD We were having morning coffee at a harbor side hotel restaurant in Reykjavík and we heard a motorcycle pull up outside. Being riders we could not help but glance up and out the large widow. “Nice bike,” Shira exclaimed. Indeed it was. A 2017 Suzuki V-Strom 650 XT- the twin to Shira’s new bike back home. Coffee quickly gulped we wandered outside – The Jacobson Effect in full swing. On truth, what is available in Europe is many times different than what is available in the USA. Shira zero’d in on the headlight guard. Up until this point we had been unable to find one of any worth here in the United States, but here sat the doppelganger of her bike along a ‘vík’ in Iceland with exactly what Shira had been searching for – a beautiful headlight guard that, after quick inspection, looked formidable, well-made and surely added a toughness to the V-Strom. I made note of the logo and, when back home began my quest to see if anyone imported SRC products. SRC stands for Sriracha Design, a design company located in Thailand. That being the case I did not think my chances were all that good but in short time I was able to locate Scott Hart and MotoStuff out of Hillsboro, OR. Scott’s company is bringing all sorts of new and interesting products to the United States and is adding more each month - a company to keep an eye on for sure. Scott told me he was indeed going to be bringing in SRC products and he promised he’d make a note and would get back to me when he finally got stock into the country. Months went by and, in truth, we forgot about the SRC Headlight Guard until an email from Scott around New Years. The shipment from Thailand had arrived and they now had stock.
Page 31 Were we still interested? Well, yes we were. A few days later a package arrived with the headlight guard for the Suzuki V-Strom 650XT. Oh, happy day – a motorcycle project. It did not matter that it was way below freezing in an unheated garage. I’d get this done right away, as I suffer from IGS – Immediate Gratification Syndrome. Honestly, some directions might have saved a few minutes of staring blankly at the front end of the VStrom, but eventually I saw how this all went together and in just about 20 minutes (15 actually working a 5 full minutes blowing into my hands and trying to keep some sort of feeling in my fingertips) the SRC Headlight Guard was installed. Made from stainless steel, our is powder-coated black, but the silver steel is sharp too, and unlike so many headlight guards that ‘velcro’ into place, the SRC design bolted securely to the bottom of the fender with two well-designed and attractive bracket; a far better and much appreciated set-up. The guard itself mounts to the brackets with tough and secure male/female couplings. This particular design is almost a spider web design and will not only protect the vulnerable headlight but looks damn sharp too. Go price the replacement of your headlight unit – you don’t want to have this shattered by an errant rock. The SRC Headlight Guard also added to the XTs already tough looks. We liked this as well. These guards, available for a wide array of machines and other great SRC products, are available from MotoStuff for $138. Find them on the web at www.motostuff.com or call Scott directly at 503-830-6433.
Page 32
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS
Martin Moto’s 9th Annual Modern Classics Motorcycle Show As the seasons begin their yearly shift from winter to spring - things begin to happen. There is a lot of moving around as the old man reluctantly shuffles off and the new kid called spring 2019 begins to poke its head up more and more. There’s probably not more moving around than at the showroom of Martin Moto, in Boyertown, Pennsylvania where, around this time each year, the
Route 739 • Dingmans Ferry, PA • 570.828.1920
showroom is cleared of their large selection of Hondas, Kawasakis, Yamahas and Triumphs to make way for what is truly one of the finest Classic Bike Shows in the nation. It is called the Modern Classic, as for years the primary spotlight was on the bikes from the 60s, 70s and, 80s… but time and the opportunity to show off some of the more vintage machines that so many collectors have squirreled away in their barns, garages, and collections have been made available for this show. To us, it is all good.
This year the theme was the year 1969 and there was a section dedicated to a half-century ago. Ahh, flashback time. The Modern Classics Show began on a Friday evening, with food and light drinks being served and it was not too soon after the doors opened that the faithful began to arrive; looking to shake off the winter with a good dose of serious motorcycles and comradery. The doors opened again that Saturday – sans food and drink. Unlike other shows, we have always found that conversations spring up around these bikes as so many of them were the first bike for many folks, or they remember these when they were in the showroom, or their dad took them for their first ride on this bike. For those who want to see ‘the entire history of motorcycling,’ Jack Broomall, manager of the Modern Classics explained that it is easy to go to a major motor-
cycle museum like Wheels Through Time in North Carolina or the Barber Motorsports Museum in Alabama. “But Martin saw an opportunity to specifically serve the bikes and enthusiasts of the ‘60s, ‘70s, and ‘80s,” he said. Add to it that each and every bike’s backstory is beautifully written by Broomall. The effort into just this alone is worthy of heavy praise! The machines that you will see at the show come from near and far and, as the word has spread of the quality of this event, collectors are reaching out to have their machines included in this ‘Rite of Spring.’ Voting for the stellar awards are done by popular vote and this year four “Peoples Choice” awards were handed out.
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019 Todd and Alec Heckman’s 1967 Triumph TR6, a 1972 Honda CB350 Café Racer brought in by Mark Kouri and Merlin Cycleworks, David Markel’s 1939 “Big Tank: Crocker and a 1962 Harley-Davidson FLH Duo Glide owned by Chad Moyer. The Exhibitors’ Choice, chosen by the show bike exhibitors themselves, was given to a beautiful 1974 Kawasaki Z1B owned by the late Jerry Harms. There was also a ‘Friends of The Modern Classics Award’ selected by The Modern Classics Planning Committee for outstanding and ongoing support of the show that was given to Randy “Razz” Ravel. As always, we walked away from the Modern Classics Show and Martin Moto feeling uplifted and excited about the event, the upcoming season, and motorcycles in general. We all love these machines and all that goes with them. And, the rest of the world that does not? Well, we almost feel sorry for them. Thanks to Dennis Martin, Jack Broomall and the entire Martin staff for creating such a wonderful event – and having it at the perfect time of the year as well. Thanks must go out to all the exhibitors who graciously brought their machines to Martin Moto as well. It is all of you who keep our motorcycle history and memories alive. If you missed this event mark your calendar for next year’s Modern Classics or, better yet, take a ride to Martin Moto this September 14 for the Modern Classics Ride-In, which encourages owners of older motorcycles to ride their machines to Boyertown for an equally enjoyable gathering. www.martinmoto.com
Page 33
Page 34
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS their national cocktail - at our friend’s open-air home. If you have never had the pleasure it is made with cachaça (Brazilian rum), sugar and lime. Good for you in many ways.
Best Soul Food
Not that I am a regular at the local soul food restaurant, but there is no denying there is always some serious dedication going into these dishes. Shirley’s Soul Food Café in Toccoa, Georgia – simply the best of this style food we have ever had. Shirley is an angel – really.
Best Cannoli
Words: Brian Rathjen A while back we ran a short list of the most unusual, oddest, and peculiar foods we have eaten around the planet. That led to a conversation about other such ‘lists’. So, we thought we’d just throw out some other places and things that have made each mile of the journey worth it.
Best Nation for Food
Every nation has something phenomenal for the palate but one nation stands out to me for consistently delicious dishes. The best food we ever had during our travels was just about anything in Greece, with lots of seafood, lamb, and spices. Combine a daily climb up another Acropolis (high city on a hill) and the great lamb, meats, and seafood - and we actually lost weight on this journey while feasting each night.
Best Cocktail
One of the most memorable concoctions was a Caipirinha that we had on the coast of Brazil -
Savoca, Sicily, along the coast of the Mediterranean and right outside the church where Michael Corleone got married. The pastry was huge, filled with Italian goodness and with the most delicious shell I could ask for. The cappuccino along with it was most excellent. Add into this old Sicilian village ambiance, the church bells ringing, the dog looking longingly for a taste and the Ducatis lined up along the church’s stonewall and life didn’t get any better.
Best Party
Octoberfest- Munich, germany For over 200 years the Germans have thrown a monstrous fete in Munich. We went exploring by ourselves, with machines stashed and locked miles away and met up with a number of U.S. Airmen and women from Ramstein Air Force Base. We covertly appropriated a table in one of the big houses and commenced to party. Big beers, served by big girls, was the order of the day with the oom-pah bands playing at 11. Whatever you
Riverside Cafe & Lodge, nestled on the Beaverskill River in Roscoe, NY CIA-trained chef • Motel rooms and cabins • Free wi-fi Excellent base location to explore the lower Catskills
accommodations available six newly renovated rooms
PLENTY OF ROOM FOR GROUPS
Bar • lunch • dinner At the intersection of Great Homemade Meals and Beautiful Backroads
Breakfast Every Sunday 9am-1pm Tues 4-10pm • Wed-Sat 11am-10pm • Sun. 9am-9pm
RivertonHotelandRestaurant
the riverton hotel and restaurant Riverside Cafe & Lodge • 16624 Cty Hwy 17 • Roscoe, NY • 607-498-5305 www.riversidecafeandlodge.net • GPS: 41°58’09”N • 75°01’32.6”W
At Belvidere-Riverton Free Bridge, Riverton, PA
610-498-4241 • www.rivertonhotel.com
Member of
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019 think would happen at Munich’s Octoberfest happens. But, like Vegas what goes on here stays here, baby!
Second Best Party
halloween eve in new Orleans A number of years ago we rode down from the deep autumn back into the colors and then it seemed a late and warm summer. After spending a few days along the Louisiana bayous we took a room, with secured parking, in the French Quarter and ended up hanging with the wild crowd from Reader’s Digest (I kid you not). Halloween Eve was phenomenal, steamy and intoxicating and lasted till just before dawn. None of us were going trick or treating the next day –chickory coffee at Café DuMonde with a late breakfast/early lunch near Jackson Square seemed the right thing to do.
Most Disturbing Moment
tga Standing in the middle of nowhere, Wondering how to begin. Lost between tomorrow and yesterday, Between now and then - The Kinks Waking up in a hospital bed with tubes and wires going in and out of me and not knowing why. Timing is everything, they say, and at one of our own Spring Break rallies a few years back I had an ‘episode.’ I was told that I was sitting in our motel room and I suddenly stood up and asked Shira where we were and what we were doing. It took just a few seconds for her to see the fear in my
Page 35 eyes and to realize I was not joking and that something was desperately and deeply wrong. Emergency personnel were called – police, doctor, EMS – and I was gurneyed to the ambulance, I was told – for I remember just a blur of something like this. Why I couldn’t have done this at home? No, I had to have this happen in front of a motel full of readers. They call it Transient Global Amnesia. It is a kind of mini-stroke, brain fart, memory-wiper. And, the doctors really don’t know squat about this. Coming awake and hearing a hospital’s murmurings before opening my eyes to confirm it was more than alarming. Not having any idea where I was or why I was there about as chilling as anything I have ever experienced. Having the previous days more or less wiped and everything else jumbled has not been fun. Doctors say the odds of having a TGA episode are 1 in 20,000. I couldn’t win a Pick-6? Don’t do this.
Most Alarming Ride Not on a Motorcycle
Retrieving a crashed motorcycle through the mountains and gorges of southern France in the dark with tourmaster and experienced rally driver Burt Richmond certainly had the adrenalin going. We had an incident earlier that day going over the “short cut” and had to leave a machine along the road. That evening, rather than relax in a castle-like château deep in the Verdon Gorge with everybody else, Burt and I took his van - an austere Turbocharged two-liter Peugeot diesel - to go retrieve the bike. What this truck lacked in horsepower was more than made up by Burt’s daring driving abilities. Super. Great. Wonderful. I remember looking out the window as the wheels were just to the inside of the mountain’s cliffs kicking gravel and rocks deep into the valley below. I remember thinking this would be as good a place as any for a final mile;
Page 36 even though I pretty much knew Burt was just having fun. Yeah, that’s the ticket. Yup, yup, yup…
Most Stunning Sites
Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia Surrounded by lush forest and made up of 16 lakes that cascade into each other, Plitvice has to be in the Top Five place we have seen. Along the lakes, which range in color from turquoise, bright blue and green to gray, a well maintained wooden walkway encircles this magnificent park and we spent an entire afternoon there just exploring, making a picnic and drinking in Plitvice’s magnificence. Te Wahipounama South Island, New Zealand This World Heritage Site was simply magnificent. This amazing landscape in this park, situated in southwest New Zealand, has been shaped by successive glaciations into fjords, rocky coasts, towering cliffs, lakes, and waterfalls. Two-thirds of the park is covered with southern beech and podocarps, some of which are over 800 years old. The kea, the only alpine parrot in the world, lives in the park, as does the rare and endangered takahe, a large flightless bird. It seemed that every turn in this part of New Zealand brought its own flair, flavor, and fun. The Canadian Rockies The entire Rockies range is beautiful, but north of the border into Canada it gets even more wild, stunning and majestic.
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS Running through two of Canada’s provinces, Alberta and British Columbia, the entire region is full of snow-capped mountaintops surrounded by beautiful blue water and enormous glaciers. This is one of the most amazing places in North America to ride and each turn can take your breath away.
Worst Uh Oh Moment
Having my bike’s engine grenade on the Northway, just south of Lake George. Shira yelling through the intercoms… “Holy shit, you should see what is coming out of your exhaust.” Like Billy Joel said – only the good die young.
Least Happy Place The Summit of Mount Etna, Sicily We needed to take a cable car to start the assent, but the real adventure began when we boarded special off-road transport to the top of Europe’s largest active volcanoes. This was, by far, the most inhospitable place we have ever been and one of the most stunning as well.
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
Page 37
Think lunar landscape, with killer winds and a fire breathing dragon beneath your feet and you will get the picture.
Worst Storm
Minas Gerais, Brazil This storm of titanic power came upon Shira, me and our two friends Mario and Milton Golombeck as we were riding back to San Paulo from the mountains. It hit so quickly and so violently that we lost Milton in the extremely violent storm. Stopping at one intersection Mario screamed that there was a bar up the steep gravel hill to our left and he would see if they were open and if we could seek shelter there. That was a good idea as the lightning was striking the ground all around, the wind was off the charts and the rain blinding. Mario scooted up the hill…. and never came back. After a few minutes, I told Shira to wait and I followed Mario’s wake up the hill only to find that when Mario reached the bar – an open-air affair – he rode right in and lost traction on the wet tile floor, sliding under the pool table where he was firmly wedged. We muscled him out and I pushed my way back down to bring Shira up safely. Right about then the owners of the bar – two women - walked out of the back to see what was going on and were more than pleased to see Mario and me (I know, low standards) and were less than pleased when they spied Shira. Another bolt of lightning blasted the power couplings right off the building in a shower of sparks and all went darker than they already were. It was almost like night, but it was about noon. A half hour later we watched from the height of the hill as the tempest continued across the deep Brazilian valley to the east. The sun came out and we eventually found Milton down the road – where he had found shelter for himself. Ironically, we left Brazil that night to return to New Jersey where a powerful winter storm had buried Backroad Central. It was so deep that our ride from the airport could not get up our hill and I hopped in the back of a Toyota 4 X 4, got my Suburban and, once again, rescued Shira and our luggage. It was a long and stormy day. We all have our favorites, our best and our worst. Feel free to tell us yours – we’d love to know. Send your thoughts, and images if you have them, to editor@backroadsusa.com Remember – the best is yet to come!
I have never been lost, but I will admit to being confused for several weeks. ~ Daniel Boone
1269 DOLSONTOWN RD MIDDLETOWN NY 10940
845-343-2552 • WWW.CYCLEMOTIONINC.COM Cycle Motion is your provider of motorcycles, ATVs, scooters, and utility vehicles by Kawasaki, Suzuki, Polaris, Yamaha and Can-Am. With a large parts department, qualified service technicians and a full shop of parts and accessories, we're here to meet all your power sport needs. For every rider - on or off road, whether they like doing it in the dirt, carving the twisties, or cruising the backroads, we have their weapon of choice.
Page 38
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS
PUTTING A LID ON IT SCHUBERTH MODULAR HELMET DESIGNS OFFER COMFORT AND PROTECTION Pamela Collins “The wind in your face”—that iconic expression regarding motorcycling’s perceived freedom. It describes the feeling of no boundaries or constraints, just a head-on barreling into life’s next moment. Truth is, though, sometimes face-forward just isn’t that practical or comfortable. Hundreds of miles between points A and B in biting rain that feels like miniature scalpels downright hurts. Gusting winds seemingly grab and steal your breath away. Late fall’s first frosty temperatures bring thoughts about chiseling ice from your cheeks and nose while the sweltering summer sun can barbecue them red and medium rare. Helmets can help. Debates about safety notwithstanding (and not the subject of this story), helmets do provide a protective barrier between a rider and nature’s elements. “But they’re heavy, they’re hot, I can’t see as well, I can’t hear anything, there’s no air inside, it fogs, my sunglasses hurt underneath them….” Detractors list a long line of reasons not to don a “lid.” During the last couple decades, a hybrid-type of helmet appeared, dubbed “modular” or “flip-up” because it worked either as a full-face or three-quarter type helmet, offering full coverage and protection for long hours on the road, or easily opening to enjoy that wind in your face feeling. Constant improvements since their inception now make modular helmets even better fitting, lighter, quieter, and easier to operate. Schuberth Helmets is one company leading those innovations. Husband/photographer Tim and I recently tested two of their modular models. These “lids” have come a long way, quelling some long-standing complaints.
SCHUBERTH C4 Tim tested Schuberth’s latest modular helmet design, the C4. I must mention my claustrophobic husband has mostly used three-quarter and half helmets throughout his riding career. Full-face helmets made him feel encased and cut off from his riding experience, so he only resorted to them in really cold riding weather. The C4 changed his mind. Tim says he found the helmet to be lightweight and comfortable, quiet, not hot or confining, with a wider field of view than he’s experienced in other full-face helmets. The German manufacturer indeed bills the C4 as being more compact with a sleeker, more modern styling than its previous, bulkier flip-up helmet offerings. More aerodynamic and lighter (4.11 pounds) than before, equals less fatigue on long rides. Schuberth developed a special process to manufacture helmet shells called Direct Fiber Processing. It uses a robot to cut an endless glass fiber into pieces and blows those into a mold. Then resin and heat are added to the fiber and baked under high pressure in the mold to produce the exceptionally solid shell that is light weight. An integrated spoiler in the neckroll improves aerodynamics. Inside, the helmet has a foam impact lining with a multi-part construction to better absorb impact forces.
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
Page 39 Underneath that lies a padded inner lining that feels soft and cozy around the face while helping the helmet give a secure, comfortable fit. It wicks moisture to keep you cool in hot temperatures and is seamless in the top, so nothing will rub or itch the crown of your head. The fabric dries quickly, is removable, washable, and antibacterial. Schuberth addresses airflow—both in and outside the helmet— in multiple ways. Inside, a multi-channeled ventilation system draws air throughout the interior while riding. This joins a large three position forehead vent and chin vent that work together to keep air circulating inside the helmet and the rider cooler and more comfortable. In spite of all that airflow, the helmet remains extremely quiet inside, with hardly any wind noise apparent. Tim says even riding with the chin bar up and the helmet open he isn’t bothered by noise. The C4’s vision field is wide and tall, with an optically correct face shield that can be removed and replaced without tools, and raises and lowers via a tab on its lower edge. The hel-
met includes a PINLOCK lens that works very well to prevent fogging. The C4 also uses a drop-down sun visor, in essence, a built-in pair of sunglasses, that engages or retracts to varying degrees using a large, smooth sliding and glove friendly slider on the helmet’s left side. It’s extremely handy and eliminates that dreaded headache from sunglass earpieces pushing on your temples. However, riding a cruiser as he does, Tim feels the sun visor could extend closer to his nose when lowered to better block the sun and make that lower edge more invisible when he looks out the helmet. He also “sees” the edges of the PINLOCK lens and feels it cuts into his view more than he’d like. An upward push on one large button in the center of the chinbar easily lifts the chinbar to the “open” position, for donning or removing the helmet or just riding face first into the elements. Change your mind and a small push downward and the chinbar securely locks into place. Schuberth also uses a micro-lock ratchet-type lock on the chinstrap to easily secure the helmet on your head, eliminating the fussy, more conventional double d-ring loops. Patches of reflective material on the back rear of the helmet increases rider visibility. It meets DOT standards. The C4 includes an integrated antenna and pre-installed microphone and speakers for Schuberth’s SC1 communication system, sold separately. Tim wore his C4, in a snazzy red, white and black color scheme called legacy red, in hot and cold weather, open and closed, through rain, and surprisingly, even on sunny days when he’d normally opt for his smaller helmets. He reports the C4 is the helmet he’ll reach for no matter the weather forecast. The C4 has a five-year warranty. It comes in sizes XS to 3XL, fitting head sizes from 52 to 65 centimeters, in a wide range of colors and patterns. Prices range from $550 to $850 at various retailers.
C3 Women’s Pro “A helmet for women? Really? Why?” I wondered. In my twenty years of motorcycling I’ve used many brands of helmets, but none have been genderspecific. I wasn’t totally sure they needed to be, either, unlike women’s jackets or pants that really require special female-specific fits. So, I’ve been using Schuberth’s latest women-specific designed helmet, the C3 Women’s Pro (an update to the C3 Women’s helmet of a few years
Page 40
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS back), to glean whether a women’s specific fit offers any real advantages. I ride mainly sporty motorcycles (as opposed to cruisers with windshields) and have worn modular helmets since they came to market, enjoying the extra protection they provide. Schuberth says the natural shape of a woman’s face is different from a man’s so the C3 Pro Women’s helmet targets these differences and our smaller head shapes. At first glance, the helmet looks like most other full-face “lids” for sale, which I like. I’m not a frilly, flowery sort and didn’t really want a helmet that screamed “female” in a clichéd way. Subtle styling works for me, and other than a decal saying “C3 Pro Women” in script on the sides, it looks like any other helmet. It comes in solid matte
black, white, or silver. Closer examination shows the primary differences between it and the men’s version are inside. First the interior, in a beautiful burgundy shade (instead of gray or black) feels downright satiny, as opposed to fuzzy, like in most helmets. This especially smooth interior, made from COOLMAX® textiles, is breathable and removable and
washes more easily that typical pads. I also find the silky interior doesn’t catch and grab my hair as much when removing the helmet. Schuberth says it specifically designed the cheekpads for a woman’s face to provide more comfort with a better, safer fit. The C3 Pro Women’s also uses a memory-type of interior foam in densities different from the standard C3 model’s, again to better tailor the helmet to a female face. I can feel the difference. I wear a size small, and most modular helmets fit tightly and squeeze my cheeks. I call it “fish-face” because it feels like my cheeks are sucked in while the rest of the helmet won’t move around my head, which is how I’m told it should fit. The C3 Pro Women’s gives me that tight (yet comfortable) fit in the head, but those cheek pads feel plush, more like a hug than a squeeze. Hot spots that I sometimes feel on my forehead disappeared. The helmet fits very securely, and I feel very secure in it. I don’t feel like a trout anymore. Should a lady want a helmet with snazzier graphics or colors but with the female specific interior, Schuberth sells the women’s padding separately for the standard C3 Pro shell. Regarding road performance, I find the C3 Pro Women’s helmet excels. First, it’s very light weight (3.5 pounds) and aerodynamic. I find no buffeting or lifting when riding at high speeds. The ventilation is excellent and includes a three-position forehead vent and a chin vent. It gives me a wide field of view and includes the anti-fog PINLOCK lens insert, the drop-down sun screen that I find so useful, and a clear and distortion free face shield. The chinbar lifts easily, even with gloved hands. Noise presents no issues as this is one of the quietest helmets I’ve ever used. Schuberth uses a nifty and easy micro-lock ratchetstyle lock to secure the chin strap and has reflective patches on the bottom of the collar, the logos and accent stickers for better nighttime visibility. The helmet meets DOT standards. The helmet has two integrated antennas for better Bluetooth range and can easily accept the Schuberth SRC-System ™ Pro Communication System, sold separately. So, does a women-specific helmet make a difference? It did for this woman. The C3 Pro Women’s helmet comes in sizes XXS to Large, fits heads from 50 to 59 centimeters, and sells for $600 and up depending on the retailer. It has a five-year guarantee. For more information on any Schuberth helmet visit their website at www.schuberth.com.
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
HYPERPRO SUSPENSION AND NEW LEGS FOR AN OLD RIDE My BMW R1200GS turned 60,000 this spring on the same day I turned 60 as well. At one time this would have been high mileage for a machine, but not so much in these modern days. Although the GS is running well and is still a blast to ride, some things were getting long in the tooth. The warranty was long gone, and thoughts of a possible trade-in and a new bike were beginning to filter into my mind. But, there was one magical thing my 2012 BMW had that the new machine did not - I own this bike. Still discussion on a new machine continued for a bit, but I had another idea. It certainly was not a cheap idea, but I considered it an investment not an expense. With any machine with over 50,000 miles on the clock the suspension will have seen far better days. Like that fable of the frog or when my hair faded away – you don’t know it is happening until it has. It is the same with the suspension on your bike. Slowly, over the thousands of miles, bumps, ripples, potholes, rough gravel and day-to-day riding my shocks lost their ability to do the job they were originally designed to do. A call to Klaus Huenecke and EPM Performance was in order. Fortunately for us EPM is fairly local, located in Manalapan, New Jersey. We have been there many times and over the years I had worked out a great Backroads ride to and from EPM. I emailed Klaus and told him my thoughts and he came back with some suggestions regarding suspension and prices. I liked what I heard. An order was put in and, in a few weeks, Klaus emailed and told me to bring the GS down. Just a few days later he called and told me to come and get my newly suspended machine. Klaus and company installed Two Hyperpro Shocks – a 360 up front and their 460 in the rear. Both shocks were also adapted into the BMW ESA – Electronic Suspension Adjustment. Hyperpro shock are made in the Netherlands and are cutting edge in every way. These Dutch shocks improve every aspect of your motorcyce’s ride.
Page 41 Not only does Hyerpro suspension give the bike a more planted feel, feedback from the road is greatly enhanced as is braking control and ability. A bike equipped with progressive springs can reduce the braking distance by 15 to 20 percent in comparison to a bike equipped with other springs. Although EPM and Hyperpro have suspension for just about every machine on the planet, for this article we will stick with the 360/460 Hyperpro BMW ESA shock absorbers. These were specifically made for all BMW R1200GS and R1200GS Adventure models till 2013, equipped with the BMW ESA system. And are suitable for both WP and Showa systems. Issues like non-functioning ESA adjustment as a result of a damaged adjustment motor, too soft springs, lack of damping or other needs of the rider, should be solved.
The 360/460 Hyperpro have a far stronger ESA stepper motor all with waterproof connectors and far improved damping settings. The progressive spring is available is standard black or a far snazzier purple – I went for purple simply because I love the look and I like to see the shocks and know what I have on this bike. According to Hyperpro, this is a ‘plug and play’ system that easily connects to the BMW ESA system. I wouldn’t know as we had Klaus and EPM right here in New Jersey and over the years I have come to realize that Mr. Huenecke is one of the top suspension specialists in the United States. When EPM sets you up – you can be pretty sure things were done right and, if adjustments need to be made as they sometimes do, Klaus and company will sort things out to Moto-GP perfection.
Page 42
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS The shock sold for a little under $600 per unit and, with transfer of the ESA components, both front and rear, and total installation the bill came to $1,900. Not cheap, but – a new GS would have cost me far, far more. But was it worth it. Well, I have ridden over 10,000 miles on the bike over the summer with the new suspension – including two long days, at speed, on the track at Virginia International Raceway and my GS does not feel like it was new. No. This 2012 BMW R1200GS never felt as planted and in control as it does now. The 360/460 Hyperpro suspension has elevated this bike, with over 60,000 miles on it, to a whole new level of fun. It corners with far more confidence. It brakes faster and in more control. Small riding errors, that might have escalated into larger and more dire issues, are more readily handled and forgotten. The bike has a new lease on life and thoughts of trading it in…. Well, that ain’t gonna happen. If you have 40,000 miles or more on your bike and still are on the stock suspension consider the ‘investment’ of new suspension and give Klaus and EPM Performance a call. Some big money spent now will not only make your motorcycle that much more fun it might save you bigger bucks down the road.
EPM Performance 77 Pension Rd., Suite 17, Manalapan, NJ 07726 732-786-9777 • www.epmperf.com
RISING WOLF GARAGE NYC EXCLUSIVE MOTORCYCLE PARKING FACILITY W e p r o v i d e a f r i e n d l y, c l e a n a n d s e c u r e environment for the motorcycle enthusiast
Service Area Personal Storage Air Compressor Battery Charging
Monthly Parking Long & Short Term 24 Hour Access Video Surveillance
By Appointment Only East Village NYC Ph: 212 475 5858 • Fx: 212 505 5205
risingwolfgarage@aol.com
www.risingwolfgarage.com
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
Page 43
HELIBARS® TOUR PERFORMANCE™ DUO POSITION HANDLEBAR RELOCATION ADAPTERS FOR THE 2018+ HONDA GOLD WING HeliBars® is proud to introduce its first-ever dual-position motorcycle handlebar risers. The new Tour Performance™ Duo Position Handlebar Relocation Adapters take the sport-touring-focused 2018 Honda Gold Wing’s ergonomics almost one step forward and more than two steps back, respectively, in their Sport and Touring riding positions. In either setting, these risers make the ‘Wing more comfortable and competent than when it rolled off the showroom floor – during parking-lot maneuvers, flowing through corners and out on the open road. Tour Performance™ Duo Position Handlebar Relocation Adapters are simply installed between the motorcycle’s handlebars and their mounts, perfectly integrating with stock components. When set in Sport mode, the adapters elevate each bar 5/8-inch, relocate the handgrips ¾-inch forward and place them 1-1/4inch farther apart, offering optimal ergonomics for fully-engaged riding and making the bike feel even lighter on its feet. When set in Touring mode, the Duo Position relocators also move the bars 5/8-inch higher, but bring the grips 2-3/4-inch closer to riders, allowing ‘Wing pilots to sit back in the saddle with more relaxed arms, neck, shoulders and back.
The strong, light adapters are machined from 6061 T-6 aluminum and have drain holes in their recessed mounting bores to eliminate corrosion from pooling water. They also feature a hard-coat, black-anodized finish and come with high-grade 10.9 hardware. To reduce cost and complexity, everything integrates with the Honda’s original wiring, cables and hydraulic lines, so messy, time-consuming re-routing and fluid bleeding are not required. The Duo Position Handlebar Relocation Adapters don’t adversely affect the Wing’s unique double-wishbone front suspension system. They’re also engineered to perfectly integrate with the Honda’s tank-top controls. Meticulous fit testing ensures that the Heli-bolstered handlebars still move freely from lock-to-lock and steer clear of the bike’s wide windscreen. Installation doesn’t require permanent modifications. The process is straightforward, using common tools and following the comprehensive installation manual, which is illustrated with photos every step of the way. This printed guide is included with the Tour Performance™ Duo Position Handlebar Relocation Adapter kit and conveniently available online. Since 1987, HeliBars has custom-engineered more than 80 different applications that greatly improve the ergonomics on bikes of every genre: ADV, cruiser, naked, retro, sport, and sport-touring, standard and touring machines — without changing their overall looks — allowing motorcyclists to venture further and more often in greater comfort. The Cornish, Maine-based company offers Tour Performance handlebar relocators and risers many other motorcycles; patented Horizon Multi-Axis Replacement Handlebars that can be fine-tuned to fit riders of all sizes and stealthy TrackStar Clip-On Handlebars that rise up to ease the pain of hardcore sportbikes’ crouched riding positions. For more information about HeliBars comfort solutions, to find a dealer or place an order directly, call 800-859-4642 or please visit heliBars.com.
Page 44
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS
BACKROADS SPRING BREAK HISTORIC DAY RIDES On our upcoming Spring Break Rally, we’ll be offering several day rides out of the Wisp Resort in Maryland. We thought we’d give you a little head’s up for your ride planning. Here are two:
NATIONAL ROAD – 200
YEARS OF INTERSTATE HISTORY
This day’s ride will bring you along 50 of the total 820 miles of the National Road, also knows as the Cumberland Road. Built between 1811 and 1837, it connects the Potomac and Ohio Rivers, and was the first federally funded road in U.S. history. The original portion started in Cumberland, MD and ran to Vandalia, IL, then the capitol of Illinois. Presidents Washington and Jefferson believed that a trans-Appalachian road was necessary to bring the young country together. On March 29, 1806, Congress authorized construction of the road that would connect Cumberland MD to the Ohio River. Construction began in 1811 with the road reaching Cumberland, MD and Uniontown, PA by 1817. It was completed, reaching the Ohio River at Wheeling, WV on August 1, 1818, when mail coaches began using the road. Several years later the road pushed through central Ohio and Indiana to reach Vandalia, IL in the 1830s. At that time it became the first road in the U.S. to use the new macadam road surfacing. Federal funding was put into place, with tollgate and houses built by each state. While plans were made to continue the road to St. Louis, MO, the panic of 1837 saw loss of funding and the terminus stayed at Vandalia. Thousands of travelers made their way west over the Allegheny Mountains to settle the rich lands along the Ohio River Valley. It became a major corridor of commerce, with small towns along the National Road’s path developing into stagecoach and steamboat hubs. Cumberland MD, Uniontown, Wash-
ington and Brownsville PA evolved into commercial centers of business and industry, with Uniontown headquartering three major stagecoach lines to carry passengers along the National Road. Blacksmith shops, livery stables and, most importantly, taverns populated these towns. There was estimated to be a tavern every mile along the road, divided between stagecoach – the more expensive designed for affluent travelers – and wagon stand for the more frugal traveler. Regardless, all taverns offered food, drink and lodging. The Mount Washington Tavern, which still stands in Uniontown as part of the Fort Necessity National Battlefield, was a stagecoach tavern. The heyday of the National Road came in 1825, with thousands of Conestoga wagons crowding the road, inns and taverns, moving west with their loads of coffee, sugar and such for the western settlers. By the early 1850’s technology was changing the way people traveled as the steam locomotive came into perfection. The Pennsylvania Railroad was completed to Pittsburgh and soon after the B&O Railroad reached Wheeling, WV. As is the way of today’s interstates replacing the local roads, this left the National Road’s traffic to quickly decline and many of the business along the way to disappear. Turnabout is fair play, and with the automobile came the return to the roads and ‘motor touring.’ The Federal Highway Act of 1921 gave federal funding to aid
For over 37 years Circle Cycle has helped riders get and stay on the road Our variety of powersports products is second to none. Whether you’re riding offroad, backroads or on the track, we’re here to get you where you need to go.
In northern New Jersey there isn’t a friendlier or more knowledgeable staff than ours. We’re happy to help you find the parts you’ve been looking for.
ONLINE SHOPPING AVAILABLE Visit our website and check our catalog pages - if you don’t see what you want, give us a call or stop in we’re always ready to help!
CIRCLE
CYCLE for the discriminating rider
SATURDAY BASIC SERVICE First Come - First Served Follow Us on Facebook
570 Broad Avenue Ridgefield NJ web: www.circlecycle.net
201-945-2200
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
Page 45
and encourage states to develop ‘adequate and connected highways and interstates’ and in 1926, the grid system of numbering highways was in place, thus creating US Route 40 out of the ashes of the National Road. Up popped hotels, motels, restaurants and diners instead of stage taverns and wagon stands. Service stations replaced livery stables. The original tollhouses and tollgates were refreshed and refurbished as tourist stops. But once again, when the Federal-Aid Highway Act of 1956 was created, much of the newfound traffic was diverted and the National Road was left silent. Decades later, those looking for a more relaxed and historic journey are taking to the two-lane backroads and the National Scenic Byway is there to satisfy. This ride will make stops at several of these historic sites, first with the 0 mile marker in Cumberland, MD after a curvaceous 50-mile ride, then stops at Casselman River Bridge, two tollhouses, Fort Necessity National Battlefield and Braddock’s grave, lunch at the historic Summit Inn Resort or in Uniontown, hometown of General George Marshall, before turning south for the final 70 miles of twisty fun back to the Wisp Resort. You may not have time for a detailed stop at all of these places, but it will give you a good
Page 46
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS idea of how important this National Road was and perhaps set the impetus to continue your exploration into this part of America’s history.
Travels & Tribulations
Beemerboneyard.com USED OILHEAD, K-BIKE & H EX-H EAD PARTS Hundreds of used parts at 50% off new cost or less Order online 24/7 ~ M/C, Visa, Discover or PayPal 100% money-back guarantee ~ parts ship in 24 hours
N EW MAINTENANCE PARTS ~ BELOW RETAIL NO BACKORDERS ~ WE STOCK WHAT WE SELL 10% off BACKROADS Discount - Online Orders Only Enter code BACKROADS in source code box @ checkout and click ‘apply’
973-775-3495 • M-F 12pm~5pm • inquires@beemerboneyard.com
The Boat House Restaurant Perfect in Any Season Brunch, Lunch or Dinner on Swartswood Lake
Excellent Ride Destination
This day’s travels is all about that… travel and all that goes with it. From a town where you may not want to go, which is right up the road, called Accident. Aren’t all of these right up the road? The town got its name in a fairly uneventful way – as one surveyor ‘accidentally’ claimed land that had already been claimed. Still, keep an eye out while riding through. Irony is not invited to this rally. After that let’s ride up to a more pleasant place – a town named Friendly. There are a few restaurants here if you didn’t have breakfast, but we think you should carry on to our next stop in Frostburg where we will find the “Oldest Road Sign in America.” In the 1750s a British General, Edward Braddock, marched 2,000 troops through the Allegheny Mountains toward what is now Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Along the way, a 2000-pound rock was set up near Frostburg, Maryland, engraved with distances and directions to places such as Captain Smyth’s Inn and Redstone Old Fort. People came to call it “The Braddock Stone.” It had been stored away for years but is now on display in a glass-enclosed case in front of St. Michael’s Parochial School in Frostburg. Sticking with travel, just a few minutes away you can see where one church is planning on rebuilding Noah’s Ark – if it is still there. Way back in 1974, Pastor Richard Greene was repeatedly told by Jesus to build an Ark next to the interstate. Who knew the Lord was such a fan of the Big Roads? The ark would be 450 feet long, 75 feet wide and 45 feet high. Through a series of “miracles,” materials and expertise were donated to get the project started in 1976. Greene traveled around the world to show off the architect’s drawings and plans, but construction still stalled at times. “As God provides, we will build.”
Tues-Sun 11A-9P Brunch 10A-2P Closed Monday Call for Seasonal Hours
1040 Cty Rd 521 • Swartswood NJ 973-300-0016
Touring North Central Virginia? Then ride on over to the NEW Comfort Inn & Suites in Orange
The newest motorcycle-friendly hotel closest to Skyline Drive… just 30 miles away! %
15 Discount to all Motorcyclists
Moto-Inn Approved Tell ‘em Backroads sent you!
Motorcyclist Owned & Operated Large indoor heated pool and spa • Free deluxe hot breakfast buffet Microwaves + fridges in every room • Large rooms + suites available
Comfort Inn & Suites 334 Caroline St (James Madison Hwy), Orange, VA 22960 540-672-3121 • www.comfortinn.com/hotel-orange-virginia-VA657
Through periods of rapid and slow progress, miracles continue. “A visitor who stopped by to see what was happening was healed of bronchitis!” “A man was healed of a sun allergy he had all his life while working on the ark site!” In 1999, the massive steel beams for the Ark structure were installed. The next phase was to erect the roof beams, but God apparently has yet to provide those. Remember Noah had serious tribulations in his travels.
BACKROADS • APRIL 2019
Page 47 The ride then goes east and into Old Town – where we hope the school cafeteria is still open - we then will cross over one very strange and low bridge into West Virginia. Have fun with the toll collector who has been doing this since High School. Note if it has been raining there is the chance the bridge will be submerged and uncrossable. Backroads will take us to Route 135 and near the town of Luke. As we ride over Backbone Mountain you will spy 24 white crosses painted on a cement retaining wall where 24 people, mostly truckers, have lost their lives by slamming into it. Do not target fixate, please. From here we suggest that you follow the route back to The Wisp and take a ride on their roller coaster – which will either be fine travel for you or another tribulation. It depends on your attitude – enjoy! Links to download all the GPS routes for the rally @ www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html One bit of housekeeping: If you haven’t already RSVPed for dinner on Saturday, May 18 at the Wisp Resort - please do so immediately. Cutoff date is May 3 and NO WALK-INS will be accepted. Email number in your party to: shira@backroadsusa.com. Thanks!
Sept. 18 - 21 + Bonus Night Sept. 22
Yes, Virginia, There is a Backroads Fall Fiesta Rally It took us a while to get this one together but here it is - 4 days spent in Virginia with an extra stay thrown in at the end in Pennsylvania. It’s a mixture of lodging options with some great riding in between. All the booking details are below and we’ll fill in the blanks as we move closer. Book EARLY so as not to be disappointed.
GET A BACKROADS FIX EACH WEEK The Backroads Report is a Weekly E-Newsletter Delivered Directly to your Email Inbox
INFORMATIVE FUN + FREE The Latest News, Stories and Opinions from the Two-Wheeled World Sign Up TODAY on our Facebook Page or our Website www.backroadsusa.com
WEDNESDAY, SEPT. 18 THUR-FRI, SEPT. 19-20 COMFORT INN BOLLING WILSON HOTEL 334 Caroline St, Orange, VA 540-672-3121 • $69 + tax Mention Backroads when calling Make your own way to Orange, VA to start your journey. It’s a quaint little burg with a selection of dining options as well as the home of James Madison’s Montpelier. The Comfort Inn has an indoor pool for our enjoyment and sets us up for great riding to our next two-night destination.
SATURDAY, SEPT. 21 BEST WESTERN
SUNDAY, SEPT. 22 FULTON STEAM BOAT
170 e. Main St, Wytheville, VA 109 Apple Tree Lane, Waynesboro, VA 1 Hartman Bridge Rd, Ronks, PA 717-299-9999 • $100 + tax 276-223-2333 • $130+tax/night 540-942-1100 • $131+tax incl. b’fast Mention Backroads when calling
Book online • Mention Backroads if calling
Mention Backroads 1663 when calling
VERY LIMITED ROOM AVAILABILITY
For those joining us on Sunday, We’ll start heading north for our Wytheville is a great base for us to we’ll make our way closer to home next night’s stay. The beautiful explore the paved (and some not) roads through the George Washington with a stay outside of Lancaster, PA. roads in this part of Virginia. Perhaps a stop in Harpers Ferry and Jefferson National Forest along There is something for everyone, for a bit of history and lunch along the border of West Virginia make from rolling country lanes to the the way. Or maybe a ride past for a pleasant day’s ride before technical twisty Claw of the Dragon. Mt. Weather, one of Dr. O’Life’s parking in Waynesboro where we’ll After exploring, the Bolling Wilson Mysterious stops. The Fulton Steam find an indoor pool and some fine Hotel makes a perfect spot to relax, Boat makes a great last night on Virginia barbecue at the Fishin’ Pig with its rooftop terrace and very our Fall Fiesta Rally. right next door. tasty restaurant downstairs.
DON’T MISS OUR SOIREE IN VIRGINIA • BOOK YOUR ROOMS TODAY!
Page 48
APRIL 2019 • BACKROADS
UP C OM I N G E VE NT S CAL END AR APRIL 2019 25-28 • Horizons Unlimited Travellers Meeting, Appomattox, VA. Informative technical workshops on everything from tires to GPS to border crossings. Inspirational, amazing and often hilarious tales from the road, exhibitors and time for discussions with other travellers. Camping on-site. Info/registration: www.horizonsunlimited.com/virginia
MAY 2019 2-5 • International Female Ride Day east Coast Rally. Base: Hudson Valley HarleyDavidson, 33 Ny 304, Nanuet, Ny hosted by Garden State Girls Ny Chapter of WOW. Host hotel: Double Tree Hilton Nanuet (845-623-6000) discounted rate available/mention IFRD. Rally details, pricing and reservations: gardenstategirlsnnj.com • Tickets available here: ifrdeastcoastrally2019.eventbrite.com 4 • Hudson Valley Stillettos on Steel Int’l Female Ride Day. Sign in/endsite: Walker Valley Fire Company, 3679 SR 52, Walker Valley, Ny. 1-5pm/KSU 1:30pm. All Welcome. Details: 845-800-2418 • www.stillettosonsteel.com 16-19 • COG Northeast Spring Fling Rally, Matamoras, PA • https://goo.gl/ZBi8en 17-19 • Dover Moto Riding for a Cure. Charity event to raise funds towards Breast and Ovarian cancer research based in West Dover, Vermont. Proud supporters of the annual Mother’s for Daughter’s Charity Ride. Weekend of stunning Vermont rides, great food, and good music • Full details www.dovermoto.com 17-19 • Morton’s BMW Spring Fling Rally, Natural Bridge, VA. Full weekend of great riding, good food and terrific company. Rally fee includes vendors, door prizes, route sheets, scavenger hunt poker run, Fri. night Brats + Brew, Sat. catered buffet dinner and guest presentation. Full info and registration: www.mortonsbmw.com 18-19 • 6th Annual New Sweden 450 - 2-day/450 miles of great backroads. Sign in: 8:30-10am • Cycle-Gear 2070 Rt. 70 (east) Cherry Hill, NJ 08003; endsite: PJ Whelihans 1854, Rt. 70 (east) Cherry Hill, NJ 08034. Pre-register $55; Day of event $65 (Credit cards accepted). Incl. doughnuts and coffee at registration, free camping, Sat. night dinner, prizes, 50/50, Sun. morning breakfast, finisher’s patch and route sheets, incl. gas/eating spots. GPS uploads available • http://450.nsbmwr.com 16-20 • Backroads Spring Break. Lions and Coasters and Amish - OH MY! First night in State College PA, two in McHenry, MD where we’ll have a group dinner on Sat. May 18. YOU MUST RSVP BEFORE MAY 1 TO BE INCLUDED. Our final night will be in Bird-in-Hand, PA. Full details: www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html
JUNE 2019 3-8 • Americade, Lake George, Ny. Largest motorcycle touring rally • www.americade.com • 518-798-7888 8-9 • Motorcyclpedia Museum hosts V-Twin expo - Indoor event with dealers, vendors and more. Come for the expo and see the over 600 motorcycles and memorabilia ex-
What’s Happening hibited in the 85,000 sq. ft. space. 9am-5pm • motorcyclepediamuseum.org 8-16 • 96th Anniversary Laconia Motorcycle Week, Weirs Beach, NH. www.laconiamotorcycleweek.com 17 • Ride to Work Day • www.ridetowork.org 20-23 • Johnstown PA Thunder in the Valley Motorcycle Rally. All Bikes Welcome. www.visitjohnstownpa.com/thunder-valley 23 • Rolling Thunder NyC 20th Salute to Veterans ‘Threes Are Wild’ Poker Run. Sign in: Putnam Cty Veterans Mem. Park, 225 Gipsy Trail Rd, Carmel, Ny. 8-11am • $20/pp incl. coffee, rolls and donuts at start, scenic ride through Hudson Valley with historic military card stops along the way, lunch, games, prizes, vendors and live entertainment. endsite: Montgomery Veterans Mem. Park, 60 Bachelor St, Vilalge of Montgomery, Ny. Lunch served at 1pm • 845-762-8719 • 845-249-3886
JULY 2019 13-14 • 43rd Annual Ramapo 500. 2 days (250 miles each day) incl. Sat. dinner, Sun. breakfast, camping, awards and prizes. endsite: Blackthorne Resort, east Durham, Ny. On-site hotel accommodations available ($) and other lodging options within 10-mile radius • Full details www.ramapomc.org 22-26 • COG Keystone National Rally, Williamsport, PA. Rally HQ: Historic Gennetti Hotel• cogmc.com/national • 814-615-9138 26-28 • Kissell Motorsports Soggy Bottom MotoFest Adventure and Dual Sport Rally. Port Matilda, PA. Registration fee incl. 5 catered meals, 4 rides with GPS routes, live music, beer and 2019 t-shirt. Attendees can expect 350 miles of mostly unpaved roads with spectacular views and optional hero sections. Lodging must be booked separately. Info: www.eventbrite.com/soggy-bottom-motofest-2019-tickets
AUGUST 2019 7-12 • DIRTy for GOOD Women’s Dual Sport Rider/Training Camp, Rocky Gap SP, Flintstone, MD • full details: womensmotorcyclistfoundation.org/events 15-18 • Touratech DirtDaze Rally, Suicide Six, Pomfret, VT. This will be THE ADV rally of the east Coast. Watch for details on their website: www.DirtDazeRally.com
SEPTEMBER 2019 6-8 • BMW Motorcycle Owners of Vermont host 2019 Green Mountain Rally, Camp Thorpe, Goshen, VT. Registration incl. 4 home-cooked meals, self-guided tours, Gap and GS rides, live bluegrass music, door prizes and awards, camping with hot showers, and bonfire Sat. night. Full details: bmwmov.wildapricot.org 9-12 • Rolling Thru America Virginia. Limited to 100 guests • 518-798-7888 • Sign up at www.rollingthruamerica.com 14-18 • Women’s Training + Dual Sport Tour. Full details: MotoVermont.com 25-28 • Rolling Thru America Maine. Limited to 100 guests • 518-798-7888 • Sign up at www.rollingthruamerica.com 16-17 • CLASS at VIR, Alton, VA. Join the crew from Backroads BeFORe the Fall Fiesta and make your riding THAT much better. For more details and to register, visit www.CLASSRIDES.com or call 805-933-9936. you must also book your lodging at VIR: 434-822-7700 ext. 101 18-23 • Backroads Fall Fiesta. Here are the details: Wed. Sept. 18 Comfort Inn, Orange, VA • Thur-Fri. Sept. 19-20 Bolling Wilson Hotel, Wytheville, VA • Sat., Sept. 21 Best Western, Waynesboro, VA • Sun. Sept. 22 Fulton Steam Boat Inn, Ronks (Lancaster) PA. Make sure you BOOK eARLy as some hotels are VeRy LIMITeD. Full details can be found on Page 47, our Rally website: backroadsusa.com/rallies.html or our Facebook page: www.facebook.com/events/474410303089926/
MAGAZINE SUBSCRIPTION PAYPAL and SQUARE ACCEPTED FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS
Easy • Convenient • Secure Subscribe Today via our Website
www.backroadsusa.com/subscription.html Sending a check? Use the form below and mail $40 to:
Backroads, PO Box 620, Augusta, NJ 07822 NAME __________________________________________________________ ADDRESS ________________________________________________________ CITY/STATE/ZIP ______________________________________________________
Don’t Miss An Issue! Mail Your Subscription TODAY! If you have moved, please use this form to inform us of your change of address o New/Lapsed Subscription
o Change of Address